Oew Kulinarik 2009 Eng 72dpi

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AUSTRIA INFO

Fine Cuisine 2009

Nature’s Pantry Regional and seasonal treats Page 2

Fine wines From dessert wine to brandy Page 6

Commentaries Franzobel Page 24 Wolfram Siebeck Page 32

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WHERE HORIZONS BROADEN.

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Editorial Contents Petra Stolba, Austrian National Tourist Office

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s we all know, smells and tastes have a longer half-life than images: they can rekindle a memory that catapults us back to a distant past, for a fraction of a second. And by distant, I don’t necessarily mean in space, but in time. Who will ever forget the dishes that were their favourites as a child? Who can forget

their aroma? I will never forget the taste and smell of my grandmother’s poppy seed noodles (and no one has ever cooked better!). For the visitor in search of impressions and sensations, Austrian cuisine opens up a new universe. Yet its supreme achievement is in staying small, because its greatest attraction lies in its local nature. Austrian cuisine is the sum total of the historical and regional dishes that portray the country that produced its ingredients. For example, noodles and gnocci may be similar. However, their thickness, consistency and the ways they are served differ from region to region. I am happy to present our culinary guide – an attempt to describe something that I very much hope you will be able to sample. Petra Stolba

02 What Austrians eat The diversity of Austrian cuisine 06 What Austrians drink What Austrians like to pour in their glass 10 Seasonal highlights An annual calendar for gourmets 14 Regional delicacies A culinary guide 18 Culinary map of Austria The gourmet regions of Austria at a glance 20 Austria’s markets A tour of fresh foods from Vienna to Bregenz 22 Pastries The Austrian’s true passion 24 Franzobel The coffeehouse as a non-sports zone 26 Gastronomy The history of the Austrian restaurant scene 30 Glossary © BODENSEE/VORARLBERG TOURISMUS/UDO MITTELBERGER

The epicure’s ABC 32 Wolfram Siebeck About Austrian cuisine

Imprint: Published by the Austrian National Tourist Office, Margaretenstrasse 1, 1040 Vienna, Data Processing Registration No: 075857630 Cover photo © Vienna Tourist Board, Karl Thomas Final editing Michaela Schwarz Image editing and graphics Karin Trenkler Foreign language typesetting Claudia Fritzenwanker Proofreading Martin Betz Printed by Grasl Druck & Neue Medien GmbH Reproduction Reprozwölf Ges.m.b.H. & Co KG

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What Austrians eat

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Franz Rosenbauch calls his cuisine “down-home fusion cuisine”. An extremely subtle combination, as his two Gault Millau stars and the Trophée Gourmet à la Carte prove. (1, 3) At the “Wiener Kochsalon”, chef de cuisine Jürgen Margetich explores the no man’s land between two culinary worlds. He even allows his guests to get involved in the kitchen. (2)

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The original Wiener schnitzel was made with veal. When prepared with pork, it is called “Viennese style schnitzel”. (4)

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Small country, big menu The diversity of Austrian cuisine is rooted in its history. By Michaela Schwarz

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here is a certain irony in the fact that so many people think first of the Wiener schnitzel when they hear the words “Austrian cuisine”. After all,

as the well-known anecdote tells us, that particular dish in fact comes from Milan. However, if the truth be told, the Moors also made a dish of meat fried in breadcrumbs. But the dish did not become what it is today until it reached the kitchens of Austria, where flour was added to the breading and lard was used instead of oil for frying. Today, it is a real delicacy. In some respects, this story is very indicative: many other classic Austrian

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Imagination knows no bounds when chefs set about re-interpreting traditional Austrian recipes. However, traditional dishes such as boiled beef topside and pancakes with curd cheese remain favourites in their original form. (5, 6) 6

© R O S E N B A U C H ( 1 , 3 , 5 , 6 ) ; W T V / K A R L T H O M A S ( 2 ) : W T V / R O B E RT O S M A R K ( 4 )

dishes were originally imports, most of which came from the countries of the former Danube monarchy. Fluffy pancakes, hearty strudel and spicy goulash from Hungary, filling sweet buns and dumpling specialities from what used to be Bohemia; however, German, Slovenian and Italian dishes were also adeptly included in Austrian cuisine and modified to suit local tastes. It is no wonder then that to this day Austrian cuisine is considered one of the most varied in the world. It is a delectable smorgasbord of all the recipes that – and for good reason – were never forgotten and have been further refined and perfected over the years. Naturally, Austria keeps up with the times as well: many of the traditional dishes that used to be made to be filling and provide calories are now prepared in lighter, more digestible style. In many places, old and new, Austrian and exotic dishes have been combined so imaginatively and creatively that at first glance you would not recognize some of the traditional dishes.

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What Austrians eat Master Chef Puck & Co Of all the Austrian chefs who have achieved international fame, Wolfgang Puck is easily the most photographed: every Hollywood star wants to have their photograph taken with him, and not just when he cooks for this elite group of guests at the annual Oscar awards. In 2004, another up-and-coming Austrian star was found on his team: 32-year old Oliver Scheiblauer, who gained some of his experience at Ferran Adriá’s world famous restaurant “El Bulli” in northern Spain.

2 Quality brandies at the “Kulinarium” on Vienna’s Spittelberg, which is not just a restaurant but also a wine boutique and delicatessen. (2) Long-established pubs garnish their dishes with a variety of local embellishments. (3) Modern ambience, historic view: the Café Leopold in the highly frequented MusemsQuartier. (4)

Germany’s most successful TV chef, Johann Lafer, also hails from Austria. His origins are evident not least from the fact that he often likes to include Austrian products in his Rhineland-Palatinate dishes: for example, alpine beef from his Styrian homeland.

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For example, how does carpaccio of alpine beef with ginger pesto sound to you? At the same time, a great many excellent old recipes have been rediscovered. Although it may sound

Most Austrian chefs with an international reputation have however been drawn back to Austria – or they never really left in the first place. Celebrated chef Toni Mörwald returned to Vienna after working in France, Germany, USA and Spain; he then launched a highly successful career at Reinhard Gerer’s “Korso”.

rather unappetizing, the “lard pig” is absolutely

And Johanna Maier, the only four-star chef in the world, has ruled the kitchen at the Hubertushof in Filzmoos with great success since 1984. Long may it stay that way. After all, the gourmets can easily come to Austria.

Whether the dishes are traditional or innovative,

delicious and has made a real comeback over recent years. A not insignificant reason for this is that nutritional scientists have identified some benefits to eating bacon that comes from slowly fattened pigs.

down-home or elitist, in Austria people enjoy eating and do so often, as is evident from their daily breakfast. While their neighbours to the south, such as the Italians and Spaniards, might swallow a quick espresso while standing, in Austria people like to sit down and eat rolls or croissants, coffee, butter and marmalade. At the

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Master Chef Puck at his restaurant “Nobu’s” in Los Angeles.

weekend, they might also eat a soft-boiled egg, ham and sliced cheese. One of the most marked trends in recent years has been the

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© C O R B I S ( 1 ) ; M A U R I T I U S ( 2 ) ; W T V / B RYA N D U F F Y ( 3 ) ; W T V / K A R L T H O M A S ( 4 )

Sarah Wiener, the daughter of author Oswald Wiener, started cooking because, as she says, she “couldn’t do anything else”. Her cooking skills, however, are exceptional. Over the course of time, she established not just her own catering business, but also several restaurants in Berlin and Hamburg. She made a big name for herself with her TV cooking shows, which made Wiener a household name.

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ever-growing brunch fad, which has almost

Austrians attach considerable importance to

at superb award-winning restaurants found

become something of a social obligation, with

having fresh, local ingredients that have not

not just in the capital but all over Austria.

people spending hours over it at various cafés

travelled long distances before they are put on

Sometimes it is precisely the places that seem

and restaurants at the weekend.

the market.

the least likely that make the biggest impression. Or what other explanation can there be for

The Austrian: an epicurean

Admittedly, that is not difficult in a country that

the well-travelled Australian at the other side of

It goes without saying that the classic Austrian

has been so richly endowed by Nature: with

the world who with an uplifting smile suddenly

lunch consists of three courses, often starting

mushrooms, berries and herbs, with juicy fresh

starts raving about the Austrian sausage

with a rich beef soup with the add-ins so typical

fruit and vegetables, with freshwater fish and

stand.

of Viennese cuisine, followed by a main course

alpine deer. And as if the variety in Austrian

and concluding with one of the many coffee

cuisine due to its history weren’t enough, it is

specialities and a “small pastry to finish off.”

further enhanced by the seasonal and regional

The fact that Austrian “butcher’s lingo” includes

specialities: apricots from the Wachau region,

more than forty different terms for the various

Styrian pumpkins and arctic char from the

cuts of meat is no less indicative. It says that

Aussee region, Vorarlberg speciality cheeses

Mr and Mrs Austrian are without doubt epicure-

and Tirolean bacon – to name but a few. It is

ans, a fact that is also evident from the high

therefore no surprise that the restaurant

quality they expect of their food. According to a

landscape in Austria also presents a picture of

survey conducted by the Market Institute, two

variety. Restaurants range from the “heuriger

thirds of the population eat organic products

buffet” with home-made, authentic snack

several times a week. In this respect, Austria is

specialities, cozy taverns and country pubs with

well ahead of the rest of Europe. In addition,

plenty of local colour to the exquisite ambience

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What Austrians drink

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A man’s world? Not at all! Judith Beck is one of the successful wine-growers who have formed an association named “11 Women and their Wines”. (1) The wine bar in Palais Coburg appointed in red leather and light elm wood is certainly not the worst place you could choose to enjoy a glass of wine. (2)

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The “Loisium” in Lower Austria attracts both wine lovers and architecture fans. (3) A closer look at hops. (6) 2

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A spray of twigs hanging at the entrance indicates that the heuriger is open. (7)

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The quality of the wine is largely determined in the vineyard. The detailed work takes place in the cellar. (4)

Christian Baumgartner is one of 19 “cider barons” from the Mostviertel region where you can enjoy the refreshing, lightly fermented fruit juice in charming surroundings. (5)

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© S T E V E H A I D E R . C O M ( 1 ) ; C O B U R G ( 2 ) ; L O I S I U M / R O B E RT H E R B S T ( 3 ) ; Ö W M / L U K A N ( 4 ) ; M O S T V I E RT E L T O U R I S M U S / W E I N F R A N Z ( 5 ) ; S T E I E R M A R K T O U R I S M U S / S C H I F F E R - S Y M B O L ( 6 ) ; M O S T V I E RT E L T O U R I S M U S / W E I N F R A N Z ( 7 )

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Thirst: a foreign word? The fact that Austria is a country of epicureans is evi-dent from their enjoyment of wine. By Sebastian Fasthuber

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here are two fundamental truths about Austrians: they enjoy drinking, and they drink well. What other explanation is there for the fact that three

quarters of the wine produced in Austria is consumed in the country? It is certainly not due to a lack of demand from abroad, because Austrian wines have been sought-after all over the world for years. The only explanation is therefore the taste. It is not just by tradition that Austria is known as a winegrowing country whose typical regional varieties are considered an outstanding element of the country’s culture. More than anything else, grape juice from Austria tastes exquisite and comes in a sophisticated assortment. Grüner Veltliner is regarded as the national showcase wine; it is per se a simple wine, but its zesty tang makes it stand out. Discerning wine-growers have worked to further enhance its characteristic bouquet in recent years. However, in small taverns, Veltliner can still be found in the characteristic two-litre bottle. That doesn’t necessarily mean it is of inferior quality. Austrians also enjoy drinking it as one-to-one mix with soda water. The result is a popular thirst-quencher called “weisser gespritzter”; however, its alcohol content should not be underestimated. This is by no means the only white wine that Austria has to offer. The taste of the Riesling from the Wachau region has made it a top international wine, likewise the Sauvignon Blanc from Styria. In addition to white Burgundy and Chardonnay, regional specialities such as Zierfandler and Rotgipfler from the thermal region south of Vienna make an important contribution to Austria’s standing in the world of wine. The same applies to Schilcher, the characteristic, slightly acidic rosé wine from Styria. Also when it comes to reds, Austria no longer has to look with envy at France, Italy and overseas countries. Just a stone’s throw away, for example in Burgenland, especially good red wines mature well because the region enjoys so many days of sunshine. With its small vineyards, Austria is not necessarily predestined to compete for

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What Austrians drink “king of sweet wines”, died an early death last

producers in recent years into a true delicacy

year. He was the only Austrian to date whose

that is also of interest to epicureans. It is not

Weingut Sabathi The third generation of the Sabathi family in the southern Styrian town of Possnitz-Leutschach is devoting their efforts to wine-making. Erwin Sabathi Jr. had the wine cellar rebuilt in 2004. The building, set into the hillside, is a fine example of impressive, clear architecture. www.sabathi.at

exquisite wines were awarded top points by

quantity but quality that people want in their

the influential wine critic Robert Parker.

glass; this is a recipe for success identified by

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Daniel Jaunegg The young Styrian wine-grower Daniel Jaunegg from Eichberg-Trautenburg is sometimes called an “extraterrestrial”. This is not least because his wine cellar looks so futuristic, almost as if it had been built by someone from another planet. www.jaunegg.at

Most Austrian beer drinkers would like to give

most cider producers. One thing is clear: in

their breweries 100 points. The group that

Austria, people enjoy drinking, drink quality

prefers beer to wine is anything but small: when

products and substantial quantities, but by no

it comes to per capita consumption, Austria

means is it always alcohol. There are also

should be called a nation of beer drinkers rather

many delicious fruit juices. This applies in

than a nation of wine drinkers. That is undoubt-

particular to juices made by farm producers,

edly due to the quality of the fermented barley

who use only untreated, ripe fruit from their

juice. It comes not just from large breweries,

own orchards to make pure fruit juices.

which produce mainly the popular types of

Thanks to careful pressing and gentle heating,

Pils, Maerzen and wheat beers. Many small

the natural taste of apples and pears stays

breweries often focus on brewing a wide variety,

in the juice. Naturally cloudy juices that are

Leo Hillinger The wine-grower in Burgenland has moved production to the mountain. The huge glass walls of the winery, built in 2004, allow visitors to see all the working areas of the plant. www.leo-hillinger.com

and bring back long forgotten beer types. Austria

transferred directly from the press to the bottle

was in fact once the capital of lager, during the

and are even healthier than their clear relatives

period of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy.

have been extremely popular for some time now.

Recently, some dedicated breweries started

Furthermore, there are now some interesting

tapping into this tradition again. For more

combinations, such as apple/raspberry and

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information about beer, visit Stiegl’s World of

apple/carrot juice. You can easily make elder-

Brewing in Salzburg, the largest beer museum

berry juice yourself by combining elderberry

in continental Europe.

flowers, sugar, water and lemon juice. Top it

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Weinwerk Burgenland Enjoy the best of Burgenland’s wines in imposing surroundings; the place to do this is the Weinwerk wine bar near Lake Neusiedl. Here, modern architecture has been coherently fused with buildings dating back to the Renaissance period. www.weinwerk-burgenland.at

up with water, and you have a wonderfully Huge enjoyment in a small glass

refreshing summer drink.

Austrian schnapps, or clear brandies, are also outstanding and are generally enjoyed after a

Export hit made in Austria

typical, hearty meal. The high-proof brandies

Austria’s two top exports in the beverage

example with the Syrah wines grown in

made today in distilleries have little in common

sector are enjoyed in all seasons and also far

Australia, and those wanting to buy the best

with the sharp fruit brandies of earlier days.

away from Austria: Red Bull and Almdudler. The

wines must have slightly deeper pockets. But

Close attention is paid to the quality of the fruit

energy drink that is said to vitalize body and

you can nevertheless buy good quality regional

used (apples, Williams pears, pears, apricots

mind and improve performance is one of the

varieties such as Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and

and also various berries) and to their processing.

best-selling drinks in the world. It is an unparal-

St. Laurent relatively inexpensively. And most

Anyone wanting to make premium brandies dis-

leled success story, due in equal measure to

consumers want to drink their wine soon after

penses with additives, sugar and other alcohol

advertising and clever marketing for the taste of

buying it, rather than leaving it for years to

such as spirits of wine. This keeps the aroma of

the product. Almdudler on the other hand is a

achieve its full potential in their cellar.

the fruit intact. As a result, the schnapps is not

classic Austrian brand. The herbal carbonated

swallowed in a quick gulp, but in small, appre-

soft drink was slipping into oblivion, but thanks

The best sweet wines in the world

ciative sips. Austrian cider has also rocketed to

to the efforts of the charismatic CEO, Thomas

Patience is a virtue that befits producers of

popularity: a fermented, slightly acidic fruit drink

Klein, Almdudler is now a household name

sweet wines well, because Beerenauslese and

made from apples and/or pears and after which

again. Austrian water tastes almost better even

Trockenbeerenauslese wines ferment very

an entire region in Lower Austria is named – the

than these beverages. As if other countries

slowly. Happily, several wine-growers in Burgen-

“Mostviertel” or cider region. Originally a rustic

didn’t already have enough reason to glance

land have developed a truly Zen Buddhist calm

drink, cider has been transformed by innovative

with envy at Austria’s beverage industry, Austria

about their work; as a result, their mature,

is also richly blessed with quality drinking water

honey-sweet dessert wines grown in the

from groundwater and springs. You can enjoy it

favourable climate around Lake Neusiedl are

straight from the tap. There is no question that it

exceptionally good and known around the

has been a long time since anyone died of thirst

world. Alois Kracher from Illmitz, known as the

on the proverbial “Island of the Blessed”.

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© 1 , 4 , 6 , 7 , 8 W U R D E N V O N D E N B E T R I E B E N Z U R V E R F Ü G U N G G E S T E L LT; L O I S I U M / R O B E RT H E R B S T ( 8 ) ; Ö W M / G O T S C H I N ( 2 ) , L U K A N ( 3 , 5 )

Wine & architecture

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Outstanding white wines from the Bründlmayer vineyard. (1)

The Bründlmayer wine estate The wonderful whites made by Willi Bründlmayer from the Kamp Valley have long been renowned in the USA. In 2007, for the second time the US wine journal “Wine Enthusiast” listed the vineyard as one of the five best vineyards in Europe. www.bruendlmayer.at

Impressions of Burgenland. (2, 3, 5) The two Münzenrieders. (4) Hämmerle special bottling. (7) Outstanding sweet wine from the Kracher estate. (8) Portion of the sgraffiti by Hugo Schär at the Loisium. (9) 2

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Münzenrieder vineyard At the heart of the Lake Neusiedl/ Seewinkel National Park, Johann and Johannes Münzenrieder produce fine wines that have won prizes around the world: the most recent was a gold medal for the “Best Sweet Wine of the Show” at the International Wine Challenge in Singapore. 3

Markus Huber has reason to smile: almost no other young wine grower has won as many prizes for his wines as he has. (6)

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International prize-winning wines and schnapps

! R E N N I W E PRIZ

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Huber vineyard Twenty-nine year old Markus Huber from the Traisen Valley is a high flyer from the Austrian wine-growing scene. He not only wins numerous prizes in Austria, but for example also won Best White Wine Producer at the International Wine and Spirit Competition in London in 2006. www.weingut-huber.at

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Hämmerle private distillery Gerhard Hämmerle from Lustenau writes: “We don’t make schnapps for the sake of winning medals.” And yet, awards seem to be attracted to him. His Williams clear brandy “Vom ganz Guten” was voted the best fruit schnapps of the year 2005 in London. www.haemmerle.com

Kracher vineyard The best sweet wines in Burgenland, in Austria, perhaps even the entire world. There is not enough space for the national and international awards won by Kracher. Following the death of Alois “Luis” Kracher, his son Gerhard is now managing the vineyard 8

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Season highlights

Apricot jam: it is impossible to imagine Austrian pastries without it. And the flavour even more so. (1)

Good food is always in season As a country of epicureans, Austria has delectable specialities for gourmets in every season. By Sabine Maier

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isl Wagner-Bacher likes classic dishes. The grande dame of Austrian cuisine has a passion for cooking apricot dumplings. By contrast, her son-

in-law Thomas Dorfer uses apricots in unusual ways: he combines them with tuna fish fingers or serves them with lukewarm lobster and salted yoghurt jelly. Gourmets appreciate both approaches. When the apricot season starts in early July at the famous accredited restaurant “Landhaus Bacher” in Mautern, they come in droves. That’s because connoisseurs know: the season is short. “We serve apricot dumplings only when the apricots are ripe in the Wachau region. The fact that they are available for just a short time is part of their appeal”, explains celebrated chef Wagner-Bacher. However, Austrian cuisine is unthinkable without the sweet sun-ripened fruit. Apricot dumplings and apricot jam are two of the best-known sweets from the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. However, apricots are also used to make schnapps, nectars and chocolate – always assuming that the weather plays along. When the trees are in blossom in spring, the apricot is an exceptionally delicate diva. If there is a cold spell, the entire harvest can be lost. A single morning frost can be decisive to the lot of the apricot for an entire year. Wild garlic on the other hand is impervious to the cold. Every year in March, this wild plant, with its very strong flavour and delicate flowers, leads off the For a long time, wild garlic was used only in folk medicine, but in recent years this delicacy has been rediscovered for cooking purposes. The versatile plant is used for wild garlic strudel and gnocci, is served with noodles, made into pesto or cooked up to make an aromatic soup. In spring, wild garlic is found on the menu throughout Austria – in simple taverns and in award-winning luxury restaurants alike. Late spring marks the start of the high season for

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Wild garlic oil: a truly versatile herb, that wild garlic. Here it lends aroma to a quality olive oil. (2)

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season in Austria, growing in shady woodland soil as soon as the snow melts.

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Gourmet festivals

Freshly dug asparagus: purists enjoy it with nothing but butter and potatoes. Yet there are so many excellent recipes. (3)

gourmets. The first asparagus is dug up, the

cheese, salad, balsamic vinegar and pepper.

elderberry is in flower, early strawberries are

When combined with elderberry flowers, which

ripe and for a short time new potatoes can be

are a special delicacy when baked in pastry,

harvested. Asparagus is the ideal choice for

they are the perfect duet in modern healthy

health purposes and is a popular dish, especially

cookery: low in calories, rich in vitamin C, and

with the ladies, who want to regain their figure

absolutely delectable.

They have long been a tradition for music and theatre lovers, and now they also exist for gourmets: festivals are the latest trend in this country that already has a name for being epicurean.

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Gourmet Festival in the Wachau region, 19-30.3.2009 Celebrated chefs and star wine growers in a classy series of events. www.wachau-gourmet-festival.at

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Gourmet Travel Festival in Graz and the surrounding area, 4-13.6.2009 Twelve international top chefs from three continents cook with regional products from Styria. www.gourmetreisefestival.at

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in time to wear a bikini. Summer in epicurean Austria brings an Asparagus is unusually low in calories – 100

incredible wealth of delicious fruit and vegeta-

grams of asparagus have just 17 kcal – and is

bles. Raspberries, cherries, apples, pears,

ideal for losing weight. But first and foremost,

peaches, aubergines, maize, peas, beans, cour-

Austrian asparagus is simply delicious. The

gettes and the recently rediscovered specialities

tender stalks are gently boiled and then eaten as

Topinambur and parsnips conjure seductive

simply as possible. The classic way of eating

realms of flavour onto the menu and make

asparagus is with a few slices of ham, but for

Austria the delicatessen shop of Europe. One

many gourmets the only thing allowed on the

truly exceptional speciality of the summer is

plate with the asparagus is a few new potatoes.

cream cheese. This velvety cheese is made from

New potatoes come straight from the field at the

sheep’s milk, goat’s milk or cow’s milk and is

end of May. Their faintly nutty flavour makes

nothing more than unripe cheese, which is why

them an exquisite delicacy which, because of

it is very digestible. The mild taste and creamy

their aroma, can be eaten in their fragile skins.

consistency make this cheese an extremely ver-

Unfortunately this paper-thin skin means that

satile ingredient when used in sweet and spicy

new potatoes cannot be stored; the delicate

dishes. Traditionally, cream cheese, such as the

tubers can be kept for no more than a

sheep’s cheese from the Mostviertel area, is

few days.

served with chives, salt, pepper and bread.

Viennese Epicurean Festival, May 2009 Regional specialities made by small producers from all over Austria. www.kulinarisches-erbe.at

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All Apricots in Krems, July 2009 The apricot festival in the Wachau region. www.krems.at

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Culinary Autumn in the Styrian Volcanic Region, September 2009 Every year on the last weekend of September. www.kulinarischer-herbst.at

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The delicatessen shops of Europe Happily, products that must be transported over great distances barely exist in Austria because seasonal delicacies grow right outside Austrians’ © STOCKFOOD (1, 2); ÖWM/ULLI KOHL (3, 4)

front doors. New potatoes are harvested throughout Austria, and the best asparagus comes from Marchfeld in Lower Austria. The “queen of berries”, the strawberry, is also cultivated everywhere from Vienna to Lake Constance. Strawberries go well with all sorts of ingredients. They are traditionally combined with sweet things, but they are also good with

Sweet or sour? Sour cherries are tartly refreshing, sweet cherries are deliciously sweet. In Austria, both can often be found right on your doorstep. (4)

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Season highlights

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Why do organic geese taste so good? Amongst other things, because during their lifetime they were given only the best to eat. (1) Everyone puts away even their favourite toys for a baking lesson with Mama. Especially if you are allowed to lick the bowl. (3)

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The “black gold” from Styria is in fact dark green. The slightly nutty flavour of pumpkin oil is just as fascinating as its colour. (2) 3

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Starting in June, the season long awaited by many gourmets begins: the mushroom season. The festival of indulgence is launched by the pop

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The taste of Christmas

star of mushrooms: the chanterelle. Bay boletes, parasol mushrooms, slippery jacks and ceps follow, and in late summer field mushrooms. The most traditional and still the most popular way of enjoying mushrooms is in “mushroom goulash with dumplings”. Mushrooms are the perfect accompaniment to venison, so it is very convenient that the game season starts in September. Hare, deer and the like have always been much sought-after specialities because of their aromatic flavour; today, gourmets also value venison because it is low-fat and makes a healthy meal.

In winter, biscuits, punch and “Bishop’s cake” guarantee pleasurable hours for gourmets and those with a sweet tooth. For gourmets, strictly speaking Christmas starts early in December. Just before the first Sunday in Advent, the aroma of cinnamon, vanilla, aniseed and honey wafts through Austrian kitchens: it’s time to start baking Christmas biscuits. What is the most wonderful time of the year for pastry-lovers surprises foreign guests time and again. Almost no other cuisine in the world has so many different kinds of Christmas baked goods. Vanilla crescent-shaped pastries, coconut kisses, aniseed stars, widow’s kisses, Linzer eyes, nut macaroons, orange stars, almond slices, Hussar biscuits, cinnamon stars and lebkuchen are big stars in the paradise of Christmas baked goods; in addition to these, each family and each bakery produces their own personal variation on the biscuit theme. Incidentally, there is good reason for baking the biscuits weeks before the big celebration: it is not until they have been stored for a while that these little delicacies develop their full aroma.

“Animals are epicureans”, explains the renowned game butcher Rudolf Schmid from the Weinviertel district. “They seek out only the best and most tender grasses and weeds.” No wonder venison, deer salami and deer raw ham have such a subtle flavour. You can enjoy these delicacies well into autumn at countless taverns and restaurants

Bishop’s cake is also baked before Christmas: a fine sponge cake filled with raisins and chopped nuts, and most especially with candied fruit. Fruit is also a key ingredient in “Kletzenbrot”. Kletzen is the Austrian word for dried pears; in addition to the bread dough, dried pears and prunes are the most important ingredients in this traditional speciality. This fruit bread is typically baked the evening before 21st December, i.e. in the longest night of the year, and cannot be cut before St. Stephen’s Day.

throughout Austria during the traditional “venison weeks”. In demand even before Halloween: pumpkins. With its gentle light and colourful woods, autumn ushers in a very special mood throughout the country and is also the high season for pumpkins. Organic and gourmet restaurants alike cultivate and use a huge variety of this vegetable to make exquisite and extremely popular dishes. Cream soups, soufflés and chutneys are always popular

Fragrant spices give Christmas baked goods their special aroma. They are also used for the typical drinks made for Advent. Mulled wine, a hot drink made with red wine, has cinnamon, coriander, cloves and a shot of rum added to it, which makes it a very warming drink on cold days. By contrast, punch is made with five different ingredients – water, tea, rum, lemon juice and sugar – and it too is drunk hot to help ward off the cold. In many towns, it is sold from street stands during the Christmas season. Interestingly enough, on Christmas Eve itself, there is no “classic” Christmas dinner. Until relatively recently, 24th December was considered a day of fasting. Today, very few people still fast, and a quarter of all Austrians keep up the tradition of preparing a fish dish for their Christmas meal: carp. Otherwise people enjoy a Christmas roast or in particular a stuffed turkey.

dishes, and in southern Styria “black gold” – the highly aromatic, dark pumpkin seed oil – is extracted from pumpkin seeds.

to an old tradition. For the Feast of St. Martin on 11 November, geese are traditionally slaughtered and eaten as “St. Martin’s goose” as part of a festive dinner. Accompanied by pumpkin, red cabbage, roasted chestnuts and dumplings, they make a hearty meal that blends many of the traditional aromas of Austrian cuisine. It offers the best evidence that Austrians – accustomed to only the best – take a philosophical attitude: eating well not only appeases your appetite, it also makes you happy.

•

STOCKFOOD

© B M L F U W / R I TA N E U M A N N ( 1 , 2 ) ; S T E I E R M A R K T O U R I S M U S / R A F FA LT

The last highlight of the epicurean year is linked

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Regional delicacies

1

A culinary journey According to the route planner, it is just 675 kilometres from Bregenz to Neusiedl am See in Burgenland. By René Freund

The adjacent province of Tirol conjures up high mountains and skiing as no other province does. And because as everyone knows, mountain air, hiking, climbing and skiing give you an appetite, after this kind of exertion your body and soul demand a substantial reward: for example, in the

B

ut between the two, magnificent landscapes

“Alpe” is the Alemannic word for alpine pasture

shape of a ham sandwich eaten in a lodge 2,000

and culinary universes are just waiting to be

and indicates the high mountain areas where

metres above sea level. A little salt, a little cold

discovered. Almost every region in Austria, almost

your soul can breathe out and the fragrant grass

smoke, lots of fresh air and several weeks

every valley has its own regional features and

gives the milk the aroma that accounts for the

maturing make real Tirolean ham unique.

specialities. Thanks to the GOURMET REGION

unmistakable flavour of alpine cheese from the

And since it tastes so good, the Tiroleans prefer

AUSTRIA initiative, some of them now have official

Vorarlberg region. “Räss cheese” is also well

not to eat even their dumplings without it, which

titles. “Bregenzerwald alpine and mountain

known, a very tangy semi-hard cheese that is

gave rise to the Tirolean bacon dumpling. After

cheese” essentially sounds like an invitation to

usually matured somewhat longer. Likewise

eating them, a schnapps will do you good: the

recuperate, and in fact there is nowhere that

subtle: Bregenzerwald wine cheese, which is

“Pregler farmers” (from “pregeln” = to boil or

combines hiking, skiing and discovering the

traditionally stored in Austrian red wine for thirty

distil) in the eastern Tirolean municipality of

ancient alpine dairy art as appealingly as this

days. Incidentally: only philistines cut the dark

Dölsach have banded together to produce

“gourmet region”.

red rind off the cheese!

single-variety schnappses. They bring a day

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The country’s outstanding white wines are cultivated primarily in the Weinviertel, in Styria and in the Wachau region. (1) Each region has its own special delicacies: Vorarlberg mountain cheese, Innviertel bacon dumplings and Styrian pumpkin cream soup are three of them. (2-5)

4

7

Growing cucumbers in Vienna. The east of Austria is one of the best vegetablegrowing areas in Europe. (4) Fresh organic rhubarb from Salzburg. (6)

© W T G / M . H I M M L ( 1 ) ; B M L F U W / R I TA N E U M A N N ( 2 , 3 , 4 , 6 , 7 ) ; S T E I E R M A R K T O U R I S M U S / P I X E L M A K E R

5

6

Land of mountains, land of cows. (7)

in the mountain air to a harmonious close.

“gourmet region” – is highly valued for its

small dumplings filled with hash, crackling or

The province of Salzburg has the highest

tenderness. In Lungau and Pongau there is a

bacon, like the local “Surspeck” cured bacon,

proportion of organic farmers in the EU; and

goat cheese producer – something quite

are extremely popular. The ideal accompaniment

nowhere else in Austria are there so many

exceptional in the beef country of Austria.

is a glass of beer from the land of breweries,

award-winning chefs, above all the now world-

Those who come down from the mountains will

although the milk here is also outstanding.

famous Johanna Maier in Filzmoos. By the way,

find delicious “Salzkammergut whitefish”, as

Countless cows graze on the rich green mead-

she is related to the no less famous skier Her-

fresh as a summer breeze, in the Salzkammer-

ows and mountain pastures of Upper Austria,

mann Maier. While the restaurants down in the

gut area around Lake Fuschl and Lake Wolfgang,

and that’s a good thing, because without

valley are four star, the guests at the lodges in

and the traditional rich dishes enjoyed by the

cows the grasslands of Austria could not be

the surrounding mountains enjoy rustic dishes

archbishops in the city of Salzburg itself.

maintained. Cows provide high quality meat and a lot of milk which is made into “Schlierbacher

with even more rustic-sounding names such as “Troadsupp’n” (grain soup), “Hoargneist-Nidei”

Every region has its own delights

cheese” at the monastery dairy.

(sauerkraut and potato loaves), or “Sennen-

According to an Upper Austrian saying,

Lower Austria is a large and extremely varied

hupfer” (a kind of doughnut). Since sixty per

“he who eats no dumplings will stay hungry all

province: woods and mountains in the south,

cent of the province of Salzburg is above 1,200

day”. It is no wonder then that the dumpling is

wine in the north, in the Wachau and Kamp

metres, local farmers keep modest animals such

as much part of Upper Austria as bacon is of

Valley areas, and still further north the dark

as goats and sheep. The meat of the “Tennen-

Tirol. Above all in the rolling hills of the Inn

lakes and mystic woods of the Waldviertel

gau mountain lamb” – eponymous with a

region, which are superb for hiking and cycling,

region. The “Waldviertel poppy seed” gourmet

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Regional Highlights Grilled char from Lake Grundl are a true delicacy. (1) So is Carnica honey from the Rosen Valley in Carinthia, which is in the process of being made here. (2) And when you have a glass of red wine from the sunny slopes of Burgenland, it is definitely worth taking your time over it. (3) 1

2

3

region is located next to “Waldviertel carp”

as far as the eye can see, the high mountains of

and herbs or dried pears, and last but not

region. Poppy seed has been grown since the

the main ridge of the Alps and the wine-growing

least, “Reindling”: a rich yeast cake with raisins,

Middle Ages and is not just attractive to the eye.

country of southern and western Styria, which is

sugar, cinnamon and butter, baked in a “Reindl”

Outstanding pastries (fig and nut tarts, strudel,

reminiscent of Tuscany. This is where Schilcher

(round pot).

noodles) are made with these little black seeds,

comes from, a wine made from the rare grape

and they even produce a nutty, very nutritious

variety of Blauer Wildbacher; its colour varies

Hungarians have a finger in the pie

oil. But beware of police check points! Poppy

between pale pink and red. Further to the south

Once on the border between the Austrian

seed is not an opiate, but in tests it cannot be

is the “Styrian pumpkin oil” gourmet region.

empire and the Hungarian kingdom, Burgenland

distinguished from heroin!

At first glance, pumpkin seed oil looks like black

has a cuisine that is to this day a remarkable sym-

oil on your plate, but it changes to dark green;

biosis between Austrian and Hungarian traditions.

Wine villages in the city

it is extracted from roasted pumpkin seeds in

Burgenland also closes the ethnographic circle to

In the capital city of Vienna, naturally you can find

a centuries old process. It goes exceptionally

Vorarlberg, as the original inhabitants of Burgen-

restaurants and shops offering international spe-

well with salads, with cold beef and pickled

land came mainly from the Alemannic region; the

cialities, but there are also simple bistros, called

sausage. One simply can’t eat a hearty dish of

name “soup Swabians” refers to this fact and

“Beisel”, where you can get a very inexpensive

cured meat in aspic and scarlet runner bean

alludes to the penchant of the people of Burgen-

lunch. In these bistros, the old Viennese dishes

salad without it.

land for eating a bowl of cabbage or lentil soup

such as lights and brains, and naturally all kinds

Where saffron goes in the soup

enjoys a summer warmth which matures the red

of deep-fried foods, such as schnitzel, liver and

Carinthia, the southernmost Austrian province, is

wine so well, you can see for hundreds of kilome-

chicken, as well as beef, for example sirloin. By

influenced by its neighbours Italy and Slovenia,

tres across the Pannonian lowlands. Here you will

contrast, the Viennese eat more simply at their

not just in terms of climate, but also in terms of

not only be served halászlé, a delectable red soup

“heuriger” wine taverns. After a walk through the

cuisine. Nowhere else in Austria can you bathe as

made with paprika and fish from Lake Neusiedl,

vineyards and the suburbs of Grinzing, Nussdorf or

untroubled by the North wind as you can in

but also other Hungarian dishes such as roast

Sievering, all of which have very much retained

Carinthia’s lakes, nowhere else in Austria do you

goose or paprika chicken, preferably with

their village character, you can stop off at a

feel the Italian spirit of life as keenly as you do in

tarhonya (egg barley pasta).

heuriger wine tavern, where fresh new wine is

the old city of Klagenfurt and in the parks around

served in simple glasses. To go with it, you can

Renaissance Porcia Castle in Spittal on the

One thing that all Austrian regions have in

order a slice of bread with one of the traditional

Drau. Between the elegantly soaring Nockberge

common and that guests particularly appreciate

spreads such as Liptau cheese or lard, or you can

mountains and the intrepid Karawanken moun-

is outstanding quality across the board, even in

try the delicious fare from the buffet, such as

tains, you can enjoy products lovingly gathered

“simple” meals. Gourmet critics from neighbour-

roast, tongue, baked pasta with ham, pickled veg-

from nature: freshly picked mushrooms from the

ing countries praise the culinary common sense

etables, black salsify salad, and for a sweet finish

woods, grayling and Danube salmon from the

of Austrian cuisine, which has neither lost sight of

original “Pischinger wafer tart”.

River Drau, pike and whitefish from the lakes.

its origins nor lost its sense of regional tradition.

The most famous Carinthian dishes have virtually

For comprehensive information about the

Black gold from Styria

legendary status. For example, there is “yellow

GOURMET REGION AUSTRIA initiative, visit

In addition to culinary diversity, Styria has many

soup”, which gets its colour and aroma from

www.genuss-region.at

sights to be seen: the Aussee region with its

saffron, Carinthian noodles, a kind of ravioli

lakes and daffodils, the Enns valley with woods

filled with your choice of meat, cream cheese

16 www.austria.info

© S T E I E R M A R K T O U R I S M U S / R A S T L ( 1 ) ; B M L F U W / R I TA N E U M A N N ( 2 ) ; Ö W M / G R I E S C H

for breakfast. In the Seewinkel National Park, that

really come into their own: potato goulash, offal

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Culinary innkeeper Almost like the Land of Cokaygne. What gave you the idea of using only regional products? We have run a business that combines an inn and a butcher’s shop for more than 100 years. We have direct contact with the farmers because of the butcher’s shop. It seemed logical to expand this relationship and buy all our products direct. We are the next best thing to being in the Land of Cokaygne. Almost everything grows here – even including peaches and strawberries. For us, it simply feels good to put fruit and vegetables on the table that have never been in refrigerated storage.

Austria has more than just “gourmet regions”. For several years, “culinary ambassadors” have won prizes – cheese makers, cider producers, bakers and farmers. And in 2007-08 for the first time, an award was given for “culinary innkeeper” – for a strict culinary philosophy that permits only regional and seasonal products. The winner of this award was Hasewend’s Kirchenwirt, a Styrian family-run business on the border with Slovenia. An interview with chef Josefine Hasewend.

Since you were awarded the prize of “culinary innkeeper”, do you use many products from the “gourmet regions”? We use products from the “gourmet regions” of “Styrian pumpkin seed oil”, “southern Styrian scarlet runner beans” and “Styrian Teichland-carp”. Where possible, we buy everything else locally. The less transportation, the fresher the goods. What is the guiding principal of your philosophy? We want to know as much as possible about the products we serve. We buy live cows, pigs, calves and lamb from our farmers, and we slaughter once a week. The meat is then sold in the butcher’s shop and used in the restaurant. With the exception of salami, everything that we sell in the butcher’s shop we make in house. Do you make your own specialities? The speciality of the butcher’s shop is želodec from the Sulm valley, a crude ham sausage made after a Slovenian recipe, and also Kübelfleisch meat. We also make a galantine of Sulm valley chicken that we serve here at the restaurant with chutney or cider jelly and horseradish. It is a light, cold alternative to the typical Styrian roast chicken. Is there anything on your menu that you do not buy from the region? I’d have to think about that. Our beer comes from upper Styria and with the exception of a few red wines from Burgenland, our wines all come from Styria. The fish – mountain trout, trout, salmon trout and carp – are all from local waters, the maize is cultivated right outside our door … But of course: sugar, salt, herbs – we don’t produce those here. How do you cook, what is your approach? Traditional or modern? Generally our cooking is down-home and uses old recipes, although we sometimes vary the side dishes. You don’t have to reinvent the wheel. We set out to cook the simple dishes extremely well, and perhaps make them a little lighter. And what are your seasonal specialities? In autumn, we offer pumpkin and beef specialities. We focus on dishes that one really wouldn’t prepare at home because they take too long. In winter, we have heartier, heavier dishes, and carp at Christmas. In spring, you will find nettles, sorrel and Lavant valley asparagus on our menu, and in June we have variations on polenta, from soup to dessert. Ingrid Götz / Austrian Tourist Office conducted the interview.

www.hasewend.at, www.genuss-region.at

www.austria.info

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Pure culinary enjoyment

GENUSS REGION ÖSTERREICH

SALZ

BREGENZ BREGE BREG GE

Kufstein

2

1

6

Inn

4

3

10

5

Blud Bludenz 7

17

Reutte

9

Landeck

11

INNSBRUCK

15

16

Kitzbühel

12

Sal

zac

26

25

14

h

28

Zell/ See

13

8

Lienz 18

Vorarlberg 1 Ländle apples 2 Bregenzerwald alpine and mountain cheese 3 Ländle veal 4 Ländle alpine pork 5 Grosswalsertal mountain cheese 6 Jagdberg hay milk cheese 7 Montafon Sura Kees – sour curd cheese Tirol 8 Paznaun alm cheese 9 Stanz damson plums 10 Oberland apples 11 Upper Inn valley potatoes 12 Northern Tirolean vegetables 13 Northern Tirolean alpine beef 14 Zillertal hay milk cheese

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15 16 17 18 19

Alpbachtal hay milk cheese Wildschönau stubble turnips Kaiserwinkl hay milk cheese Eastern Tirolean mountain lamb Eastern Tirolean potatoes

Salzburg 20 Wals vegetables 21 Flachgau hay milk cheese 22 Salzkammergut whitefish 23 Tennengau Alm cheese 24 Tennengau mountain lamb 25 Bramberg fruit juice 26 Pinzgau beer cheese 27 Pinzgau kid 28 Pinzgau beef 29 Lungau potatoes

Carinthia Upper Austria 30 Inn region cured bacon 45 Möll valley – Glockner lamb 31 Sauwald potatoes 46 Nockberge alpine beef 32 HansBergLand hops 47 Metnitz valley venison 33 Mühlviertel mountain herbs 48 Gurk valley air-dried bacon 34 Mühlviertel free-range alpine geese 49 Görtschitz valley milk 35 Leonding green asparagus 50 Central Carinthian cattle 36 Eferding Landl vegetables 51 Lavant valley apple cider 37 Linz Land apple-pear juice 52 Gail valley Alm cheese, Gail valley bacon 38 Buchkirchner-Schartner choice fruit 39 Limestone Alps National Park fruit juices 53 Kärntna Låxn – lake trout 40 Mattig valley trout 54 Rosen valley Carnica honey 41 Hausruck pear-apple cider 55 Jaun valley salami 42 Schlierbach cheese 56 Jaun valley buckwheat Schlierbach poultry 43 Limestone Alps National Park organic beef 44 Salzkammergut cheese

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Thay

73

a 74

Gmünd

77 75

78

Donau

Braunau/ Inn

Inn

30

36

Ried/Innkreis

40

22

23

81

87

EISENSTADT

St. Johann/Pongau

95

Mü

59

102 103

104

106

107

101

105

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Mürzzuschlag

Enns

Liezen

Neusiedl/See

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Waidhofen/Ybbs 93

57

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Baden

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24

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89

99

WIEN

88

39 43

83

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Amstetten

rz

108

Oberwart

Schladming

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60

27

Tamsweg 29

64

Murau

Knittelfeld

Mur

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48

Hermagor Gail

Villach

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KLAGENFURT

55

111 112

69

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Leibnitz

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Bad Radkersburg

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Völkermarkt

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Gleisdorf

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Wolfsberg

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Donau

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58 26

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ST. PÖLTEN

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Steyr

Gmunden

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LINZ

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38

42 21

34

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ALZBURG

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Krems/Donau

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Eferding

Mar

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ch

Hollabrunn

Drau

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Styria 57 Aussee region char 58 Gesäuse venison 59 Hochschwab venison 60 Pöllau pear 61 Eastern Styrian apples 62 Weiz mountain lamb 63 Almenland alpine beef 64 Mur valley Styrian cheese 65 Western Styrian Turopolje pork 66 Styrian pumpkin seed oil 67 Graz crisphead lettuce 68 Styrian Teichland – carp 69 Styrian volcanic region ham 70 Styrian horseradish 71 Southeast Styrian scarlet runner beans

Lower Austria 72 Waldviertel potatoes 73 Waldviertel carp 74 Retz Land pumpkins 75 Weinviertel potatoes 76 Weinviertel grain 77 Laa onions 78 Weinviertel venison 79 Waldviertel poppy seed 80 Wachau apricots 81 Wagram nuts 82 Traisen valley fruit juices 83 Tullnerfeld cabbage 84 Tullnerfeld pork 85 Weinviertel pork 86 Waldviertel pasture-fed beef 87 Ybbs valley trout 88 Mostviertel pear cider

89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99

Pielach valley Cornel cherries Mostviertel sheep’s cheese Alpenvorland beef Lilienfeld-Voralpen venison Schneebergland young beef Bucklige Welt apple cider Schneebergland pork Wiesenwienerwald service berries Wienerwald pasture-fed beef Marchfeld asparagus Marchfeld vegetables

Vienna 100 Viennese vegetables

Burgenland 101 Kittsee apricots 102 Lake Neusiedl fish 103 Pannonian Mangalitza pork 104 Leithaberg sweet cherries 105 Seewinkl vegetables 106 Lake Neusiedl-Seewinkel National Park long-horn cows 107 Wiesen Ananas strawberries 108 Central Burgenland chestnuts and walnuts 109 Central Burgenland spelt 110 Southern Burgenland herbs 111 Zickental fen ox 112 Southern Burgenland apples 113 Southern Burgenland free-range geese

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Austria’s markets

3

Whether it’s flowers or home-made specialities, true connoisseurs know exactly where and when to buy the very best. (3, 4)

Ö

Friday shopping at Linz Südbahnhof station, the biggest fruit and vegetable market in Upper Austria. (5)

4

1

The “Schranne” is Salzburg’s oldest market, considered by many to be the best in the country. (1)

Ö

Vienna’s Naschmarkt: during the day, a tourist haunt; at night, an in-scene rendezvous. Incidentally, the “Naschmarkt-Deli” bistro was designed by the renowned architects Dietrich & Untertrifaller. (2)

2

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Cheery bustle, fresh fruit The most seductive place to experience “Austria as a delicatessen” is at its countless markets. By Sabine Maier

wares, and the market abounds with tiny stands on which there may often by only ten kohlrabi and two kilos of damson plums. The largest indoor market in Austria is in Innsbruck. Six days a week, food, specialities and flowers are sold in the renovated Art Nouveau market hall. Every first Friday in the month, there

T

he smell of fresh mint titillates the nose, but

pavilion, Mr Staud sells his world-famous jams

is also an exhibition entitled “Women’s Arts &

is immediately surpassed by exotic aromas of

and jars of pickled vegetables. The exhilarating

Crafts” in which more than sixty artisans offer

curry and turmeric and by the raspberry-sweet

multi-cultural atmosphere at the market attracts

their creations for sale. Just as varied, but

aroma of wild roses. A Turkish merchant declaims

the in crowd: recently breakfast on Yppenplatz

outdoors, is the delightful weekly market on

the virtues of his musk melons, opposite him a

on Saturday has become almost a ritual to mark

Kornmarktplatz in Bregenz. Market sellers from

Chinese cook is selling hot noodles straight

the end of the week.

all over Vorarlberg present a remarkably rich assortment known in particular for original

© B U E N O S D I A S B I L D A G E N T U R G M B H ( 1 ) ; I G N A C I O M A RT I N E Z ( 2 ) ; D O N A U N I E D E R Ö S T E R R E I C H / S T E V E H A I D E R ( 4 ) ; S TA D T L I N Z / W I RT S C H A F T S S E R V I C E ( 5 ) ; P H Y S A L I S : Ö W M / K O H L

from the wok, and the organic baker from the Weinviertel region is stacking spelt fruit tartlets on

A market square more than 1,000 years old

specialities. Paul Bentele, the ointment king of

a shelf. At Vienna’s Nachmarkt, a journey around

As the capital city, Vienna may have the most

Bregenz, sells marigold, marmot and goat butter

the world doesn’t take 80 days, but can easily be

markets, but the oldest market in the country –

ointments. And Alan Cohen, originally from New

accomplished in just a few minutes. Austria’s

and to many the most beautiful – is in Salzburg.

York, has made a name for himself with his

largest market invites visitors to stroll, admire,

As long ago as 996, Emperor Otto III granted the

excellent home-made noodles.

discover and enjoy from Monday to Saturday. On

archbishop of Salzburg the right to hold a daily

Naschmarkt, you will find everything you could

market in Salzburg. Called “Schranne”, the market

Graz is home to a market with a high percentage

ever need in your kitchen: fruit and vegetables,

exists to this day and takes place every Thursday

of organic products: the farmers’ market on

meat and fish, bread and cheese. But that’s not

next to the Church of St. Andrew. Food and

Kaiser-Josef-Platz has been in existence since

all: there are also delicacies such as Persian

1928. From hearty cured meat and farmhouse

caviar, quail’s eggs and goose liver. The best of

bacon to Austrian fish, at this market you will find

the Naschmarkt’s products are traded by the

everything your heart desires – naturally also the

Viennese like insider information: the Umar

Styrian pumpkin seed oil so typical of this region.

brothers have the freshest seafood in the whole

For cheese lovers, the “Kasalm” stall is an

city, Herta Gruber sells legendary t-bone steaks,

excellent tip: more than eighty traditionally made

the quality of which is entirely comparable to

cheeses made with raw milk and organic milk are

Kobe beef.

sold at this stall. The market at the heart of the Styrian capital is the flagship for all farmers’

A total of 21 markets in Vienna offer their wares

flowers are sold at 190 market stalls. The market

markets in Austria. There are hundreds of them

from Monday to Saturday, and at the weekend

is known above all for its rustic specialities – for

between Lake Neusiedl and Lake Constance –

there are additional treats. For example, the

example, there are stands that sell nothing but

with small but always inspiring selections. With

biggest slow-food corner in the city is to be

ready-to-cook dumplings, from bread dumplings

its many herbs, the farmers’ market in Gars am

found every Saturday on Karmelitermarkt. The

to cured dumplings. The Schranne market is

Kamp is especially picturesque, or there is the

only products sold there are Austrian products

particularly attractive in the Advent season and

Pielachtal farmers’ market in Hofstetten. Many

from ecoconscious producers. Alpine salmon and

before Easter, when the rustic decorations on the

farmers come every Thursday and Saturday to

organic bread baked in a wood-burning stove,

stalls make a charming picture.

Klagenfurt to the market on Benediktinerplatz. With its huge assortment, it is the best example

cheese and meat products from ancient breeds. The Brunnenmarkt in Ottakring – otherwise

Visually, the Südbahnhof station market in Linz

of the new “Europe of regions”. As if it is the

firmly in Turkish control – is augmented at the

cannot compete. But Upper Austria’s largest fruit

most natural thing in the world, farmers from

weekend by a farmers’ market where the products

and vegetable market is an extremely busy

nearby Slovenia and Friaul in Italy rub shoulders

sold are all from the surrounding area. At the

market, especially on Fridays. That is when, in

with the merchants and sell delectable goods for

intersection between the two markets is a

addition to the normal stalls, countless small

kitchen and wine cellar alongside their

Viennese institution: “the Staud”. In a modern

farmers and gardeners from the region sell their

Carinthian colleagues.

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Pastries

Always worth sinning for The term “Mehlspeise” – the Austrian word for pastries – still meets with a blank expression on the faces of many non-Austrians. By Michaela Schwarz

T

he explanation is not quite as plausible as you would think. Although in days gone by, hearty dishes such as the rustic “Sterz” made from corn

or buckwheat semolina, were also called “Mehlspeise” or “flour dishes”. Today the term is synonymous with the dessert culture of the entire country – and one that makes the mouths of gourmets all over the world water. There are now even “flour dishes” that contain no flour at all… but we don’t want to add to the confusion. One thing is certain: the Austrians love their pastries and desserts just as much as everyone else does. Whether we’re talking about pancakes or apricot dumplings, baked apple slices or gently warmed curd cheese strudel, the dishes that in leaner times were often served as a substitute for more expensive meat dishes are now an essential part of any good menu. The importance attached to desserts in Austria is evident from the most unusual incidents. For example, a special song has been composed for some of them, such as for the “Salzburg Nockerln”, which were serenaded by no less a star than Peter Alexander. Others gained a worldwide reputation because a certain California governor of Austrian descent still raves about his mama’s apple strudel. And there was even a lawsuit lasting years to resolve the issue of who may call their Sachertorte the “original Sachertorte”: the Hotel Sacher or purveyor to the crown Demel confectioners. The former won the case. Talking of Sachertorte: to this day, the original recipe is a strictly guarded secret and has never been changed. And this despite the unceasing efforts of those who would be only too happy to modify the most famous cake in the world to suit the tastes of their own customers. Chocolate addicts who would like to experiment a little more with the taste have found what they’re looking for at chocolate-maker Zotter: the imaginative and sometimes daring flavour combinations achieved using hand-made Fair Trade chocolate have convinced the demanding palate of no less than the British queen.

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The legendary Dobos gateau, immortalized here by Andy Warhol, can be enjoyed in fine surroundings at the Heiner confectioners, purveyor to the court, on Wollzeile in Vienna.

Comfort food and temptation The following suggestions of how one can best enjoy Austrian pastries and desserts are uncompromisingly subjective. But on the other hand, they have been empirically tested. Salzburg Nockerln: for seduction Even the prince archbishop of Raitenau allowed his mistress to spoil him with this light soufflé dish. To this day, this originally French dessert retains a hint of sinful seduction. Kaiserschmarren: for the ravenous appetite The fluffy Kaiserschmarren is so filling that people often order them as their main course. Ostensibly they were not invented for the Kaiser at all, but for his wife Sisi. Or rather for the sake of the lady’s poor toothypegs, which were not particularly good. Topfenstrudel: as a reward Just slightly ahead of the apple strudel and apricot strudel, the curd cheese strudel is the ideal reward after a long hike. You will find it on the menu of virtually every Austrian hikers’ lodge.

© A N DY WA R H O L F O U N D AT I O N / C O R B I S

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Sachertorte: for comfort food Everyone knows now that chocolate boosts your serotonin level and induces a sensation of happiness. In fact the most famous of all cakes is ideal comfort food in cases of lovesickness and other troubles. However, it also tastes excellent in sunnier times. Palatschinken: to top it all off Wafer-thin, light and fluffy, you can and will want to polish off these pancakes – regardless of how plentiful the meal was that you just ate.

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The coffeehouse Or a brief plea for a sports-free zone. By Franzobel

I

coffeehouse is one of the few remaining sports-free

joggers and skiers, and everyone rushes to the gym

amnion, with pasty light flowing around you, boiled

in the evening, racing cyclists pedal through the

into a sauce consisting of all possible sorts of

streets, and there’s someone with dumbbells and

abstruse, sometimes even grotesque models to

expanders at every corner, it just gets too much

explain the world. You shouldn’t talk to loudly here,

even for me. Sports on every other television

but not too quietly either, and any hysterical laugh-

channel, at the newspaper kiosk, on huge

ter is severely punished with glaring stares. How-

screens, sports, everywhere sports.

ever, you can celebrate every time you order, every

t’s not that I don’t like sports, but sometimes, when the world seems to consist entirely of

sanctuaries. You feel as if you are swathed in a thin

time you turn a page of the newspaper, like an act Sports are so omnipresent that it causes an allergic

of state. Esterhazy slices, punch doughnuts and

reaction in some people: sports rashes, sports

apple strudel await you in the display case, but

eczema. Perhaps psycho-hygienic factors will soon

regardless what you order, whether it’s goulash

prompt us to discuss having a sports-free zone.

soup or sausages, the waiter will always ask the

Just as there are now smoke-filled little rooms for

same question: “Mit Schlag?”, meaning the wellknown sweetened fat otherwise known simply as cream, but that people are foregoing more and

Franzobel, born in 1967 in Vöcklabruck as Franz Stefan Griebl. He is now a freelance author in Vienna. The playwright, storyteller and Ingeborg Bachmann prize-winner already has a long list of publications.

more often since the dawn of the sports age.

Books (selection): Lusthaus oder die Schule der Gemeinheit. Zsolnay, Vienna 2002 Luna Park. Vergnügungsgedichte. Zsolnay, Vienna 2003 Das Fest der Steine oder die Wunderkammer der Exzentrik. Zsolnay, Vienna 2005 Schwalbenkönig. Ritter, Klagenfurt 2006

If it is a real Viennese coffeehouse, it will have a back room with several small tables at which old ladies called Mizzi, Milli and Fanny sit and play tarot. Schnapsen requires greater bravado, and is significantly easier, but is not really considered good

© H A N N A S I L B E R M AY R H A N N A @ S I L B E R M AY R . AT; F O T O C A F É D I G L A S – W T V / K A R L T H O M A S

manners in the coffeehouse: anyone nevertheless smokers, green spaces where children are not

daring to play this card game may be considered an

allowed to play, quiet compartments in trains and

uncouth yob. According to enigmatic plans nonethe-

meadows for dogs only, there will be rooms where

less known to all participants, at some point in the

we can be sure there will be no sports, rooms with-

late afternoon the green felt card tables turn into

out tables and results, without winners and losers.

chess boards, and chess players slip out of the

But what will you do there? Just killing time is not

Mizzis, Millis and Fannys, or so it seems. Later they

an option. Then it suddenly occurred to me that

too are transformed. The night is given over com-

there is already a sports-free zone, at least in

pletely to billiards. Naturally, that can be a sport too,

Vienna: the coffeehouse! The Viennese coffeehouse,

but at a coffeehouse it is not played like that. At the

where newspapers have not been disfigured with

Vienna coffeehouse, sports are meaningless, no

staples as you see everywhere else, but are kept on

one talks about them, the subject simply doesn’t

a wicker frame. Where, in the middle of a strange

arise. Sometimes that does one good, sometimes

biotope of nostalgia and monarchy, you can sink

even a great deal of good. At the Viennese coffee-

into a well-worn upholstered chair and sit for virtu-

house you get disconnected from time, you feel

ally hours over your “little black” (as espresso is

detached from the present. It’s a bit like a Hans

called here, with complete disregard for political

Moser film, as if there were only fiacres and gas

correctness) at least until the coffeehouse closes,

lamps outside. The Viennese coffeehouse is the last

because after taking your first order the waiter will

refuge from the hectic pace of this world. How

not urge you to consume any more. The Viennese

wonderful that such a thing should exist.

•

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Gastronomy The prospect of a good meal Anyone who suspects that they will find exceptional fare at especially beautiful sites is blessed with a well-functioning culinary instinct. At the M32, Sepp Schellhorn’s crew offers a varied, but not too earthbound cuisine at prices that are certainly not excessive.

*

M32 Mönchsberg 32, 5020 Salzburg Tel. +43 662 841000 Austrian lakes have always been a magnificent spot to admire the sunset now and then; in recent times they have also been the place to find an exquisite meal, for example at the

*

LakeSide 9081 Reifnitz am Wörthersee Tel. +43 664 233 33 43

*

Ronacherfels am Weissensee Neusach 40, 9762 Weissensee Tel. +43 4713 2172

*

Gasthof zur Post am Grundlsee Bräuhof 94, 8993 Grundlsee Tel. +43 3622 20104

*

Gasthof Winkler am Wallersee Ostbucht 12, 5202 Neumarkt am Wallersee, Tel. +43 6216 5270-0 There is usually also a lot to see in winegrowing regions, such as in the garden at

*

Gasthof Nigl Kirchenberg 1, 3541 Senftenberg Tel. +43 2719 2609 500

A

*

Kreuzwirt am Pössnitzberg Pössnitz 168 a, 8463 Leutschach Tel. +43 3454 205600 In the Austrian capital, people enjoy having a meal where they can see the impressive skyline of imperial Vienna. One example is the Do & Co terrace at the Albertina, where you can rest your eyes on parks and museums after the demanding business of looking at works of art, which are shown here in changing exhibitions.

*

Do & Co in der Albertina Albertinaplatz 1, 1010 Wien Tel. +43 1 5329669

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Guests enjoying the three-star cuisine at the “Kreuzwirt” can gaze out at the rolling hills of Styrian wine country. (1)

The gentle revolution On the paradigm change on Austrian plates and in its bookshelves. By Alexander Rabl

H

ave the Austrians finally become foodies just like the Italians, French and Japanese? A glance along the shelves of the bookshops in Vienna,

Salzburg, Graz or Bregenz would seem to indicate as much. Here we will find reading material such as did not exist earlier and certainly not in these 1

quantities. Where just five years ago jogging and fitness guides by the mile lined the display windows of bookshops, there are now restaurant guides. “Grub guides” is what the Austrians affectionately and ironically call the

The restaurant with the nation's most superb view (Gault Millau): the M 32. (2)

books that show them the way to their next good meal. In no other country is the volume of guides on the best hotels, bistros, taverns and gourmet

At Babette’s by contrast, you can look over the chef’s shoulder: the restaurant is both a show kitchen and a bookshop. (3)

restaurants as great.

3

© K R E U Z W I RT A M P Ö S S N I T Z B E R G ( 1 ) ; M 3 2 ( 2 ) ; B A B E T T E ’ S / H E L M U T M I T T E R ( 3 )

How did this come about? When many of us could barely get our nose up over the edge of the table, in Austria we heard and read about the hullabaloo being caused by a book in which so-called anonymous restaurant testers were publicizing their opinion on our restaurants. They said which restaurants one could visit and which one should rather avoid. Now what? A foreigner is telling Austrians where they should eat? And to add insult to injury, a Frenchman! It was a second Versailles when Gault Millau overthrew our culinary monuments and raised other chefs, until then completely unknown, onto a pedestal. The storm of outrage soon abated. It gave way to a previously unknown appetite for something that had long been a major topic for our German neighbours, but in Austria had only been discussed on the quiet: the refinement of cooking, eating and drinking. From that moment on, the gourmet avant-garde – in those days still a small, but well-to-do elite – would not leave home without their guide in the glove box.

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Gastronomy

1

Good food had suddenly become a topic of

At some point there will be a Michelin three-star

increasingly becoming a show business in which

discussion in the land of the shepherd’s spit

restaurant in Austria. Everyone is waiting. Some

peacocks clad in white try to outdo each other

and gypsy schnitzel. Almost thirty years later, it

ambitious landlords already had their fridges filled

with their achievements, competition that seems

is still a topic. The only difference is that it is no

with champagne because they thought it was

dispensable to the ladies. They don’t cook for the

longer just for the elite. Bistro guides, tavern

about to happen to them, and then they had to

sake of adding stars to a restaurant’s status,

guides, heuriger guides, wine compendia,

cancel the party at the last minute. Austria’s top

but for that certain “mmm, once again it was

health guides and the success of “Gault Mil-

chefs say they are being philosophical about it.

delicious” from their regular guests. And just as

lau”, “À la carte” and “Michelin” all prove that

But they are nevertheless working towards being

the traditional Austrian kitchen tended to be a

Austrians have assimilated good eating and

the first. They – and all the others dedicated to

kitchen of housewives or Bohemian cooks, the

drinking as a chic lifestyle, although they do not

excellence rather than average – are worth a visit

modern kitchen, freed of some cinders and with

go about it with French drive or German seri-

now. However, there is one thing which the atten-

some tasteful improvements, is a woman’s

ousness, but with Austrian laissez-faire. Dozens

tive restaurant, bistro or tavern guest cannot fail

domain. Whether it’s the perfect liver dumpling

of cookery broadcasts and magazines, and

to miss!

soup and boiled beef topside made by Gerti Sodoma in Tulln, the legendary lamb lights or

armies of cookbooks are keeping the trend on the boil.

Cherchez la femme!

smoked tongue made by Martha Grünauer, the

Many of Austria’s best chefs are women. This sets In no other country is “organic” so much part of

Austria apart. In Spain, in France, in Italy, in Eng-

the mainstream that it is almost taken for

land and in Germany, it is – almost without excep-

granted. Even those not willing to relinquish

tion – men who stand in the kitchen, regardless

half their monthly earnings for their culinary

whether it is a good neighbourhood restaurant, a

education know the names of the top chefs,

bistro, an osteria, or a gourmet restaurant snowed

from Eselböck and Hanner to Obauer and Maier.

under with awards.

And the wide selection of good to excellent stores ensures that gourmets everywhere will

Why is that? For one thing, many women shy

find their basic supplies no matter how remote

away from walking the prejudice-ridden path

the valley or far-flung lakeshore where they

through training in a male domain, which

happen to be. So what happens now? Now the

strangely enough gastronomic cooking still is. For

country is waiting for the knightly accolade.

another, especially in France the chef business is

28 www.austria.info

Our book tip *** Michelin-starred chefs – the best women chefs and their recipes. Do women cook more discriminatingly, more subtly?

www.at-verlag.ch

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Who says that you can only enjoy outstanding cuisine in the nation’s capital? Sissy Sonnleitner’s specialities, such as Carinthian fresh cheese noodles, are a perfect symbiosis of Carinthian down-toearthness and Mediterranean temperament. (1)

© S I S S Y S O N N L E I T N E R ( 1 ) ; S T E I E R M A R K T O U R I S M U S / W O L F ( 2 ) ; M O S T V I E RT E L T O U R I S M U S / W E I N F R A N Z . AT ( 3 )

You can eat extremely well at a restaurant in the vineyards or at a cider heuriger as well. (2, 3)

3

bean goulash or Mantalitza pork roast made by

The egalitarian pleasure

weekend, city dwellers also like to drive out

Herta Meixner – remarkably often when Austrian

The heuriger has always been receptive to

into the hills of the Styrian wine-growing areas,

classics are served in and around Vienna, it is a

everything Viennese, the “coziness” that has

where the wines are fresher than in Vienna, the

woman we thank after the meal. Further away

always been punctuated with a little melancholy

patés (and the meatballs) are spicier and

from Vienna too, it is women chefs we have to

and wine euphoria. But that is just as much a

heartier.

thank for the best meals at restaurants. The

cliché as the idea that in the evening the Vien-

insightful cooking of Johanna Maier and the

nese dress up in costumes and Mozart wigs to

Just for the sake of completeness, we should

almost hundred-percent consistent flavour of Lisl

play music at home. A new, level-headed gen-

mention that Styria is in the top league for the

Wagner-Bacher are renowned far beyond the

eration that insists on quality has taken over in

white wines of this world. However, visitors to

borders of Austria. But we should also mention

the cellars and kitchens of the heurigers. Vien-

heurigers between Stainz and Straden are

for example Sissy Sonnleiter’s Friulian-inspired

nese wine is served not just in Grinzing, Siever-

looking for authentic food unaffected by the

soups, her pasta dishes and her pot roast made

ing, Nussdorf, Mauer and Stammersdorf, but

influences of high civilization; they find it in tiny

with Austrian venison and lamb that have been

also in the best restaurants in the city. When

heuriger wine taverns which, to their regret,

attracting guests to Kötschach-Mauthen for

they have a glass of cuvée and mineral water

can only stay open for as long as their wine

more than twenty years.

and a heuriger buffet in front of them, all Vien-

supplies last. That’s the law. And the law by

nese are equal. And the idea that in a few min-

rights has always been a sensible fellow.

And let us not forget Martina Eitzinger, who used

utes the mayor will sit down at the reserved

to cook at the Tanglberg in Vorchdorf and is now

table in the garden with a view of the vineyards

demonstrating how good international hotel cui-

or maybe just a view of the neighbour’s wall

sine can taste in Zell am See. These and many

creates something of a tacit bond between the

other ladies in their kitchens make Austrians

tram conductor and the factory owner.

•

hungry little boys and girls who impatiently wait to find out what mama is cooking today. And expect

Time and again the epicures in the city are

that once again they will like what she serves. And

drawn to the suburbs, since the wines have

because food simply tastes better in company and

improved and the buffets include organic prod-

the Austrians tend to dislike elitist carryings-on at

ucts, cheese from sought-after producers,

table, but do have a penchant for music, we still

bacon, sausage and patés that have nothing in

all enjoy going to a heuriger.

common with the offerings of the past. At the

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Glossary Häuptelsalat A green salad has been served with every decent main dish since the 17th century. The most popular to this day: the “Häuptel” or head of lettuce.

Apfelstrudel Apple strudel is the showpiece of Austrian pastries! Apple pieces, cinnamon and raisins are wrapped in a wafer-thin sheet of pastry. The pasty must be so thin that you can read a love letter through it.

Indian A name that sadly is seldom used now for the “Indian Bird”, the turkey. At the beginning of the 19th century, the Indian was filled with five to six pounds of truffles!

1

Beuschel Admittedly a somewhat tricky dish, but it tastes much better than it sounds: finely chopped offal (heart, lungs) in a slightly tart soup. Buchteln One of the wonderful desserts that Bohemian cooks brought to Austria: leavened dough pieces filled with jam. Champignons mit Sauce tartare This has become a classic dish for small appetites and consists of breaded mushrooms served with a spicy mayonnaise sauce. Dirndln A Dirndl is actually a young girl, but in the gourmet land of Austria there is a wild fruit by the same name that makes an outstanding schnapps. Erdäpfel The first potato plant arrived in Vienna in 1588. Today potatoes dominate the kitchen in the form of puree, dumplings, salad and potato pancakes. Faschiertes Minced/ground meat that is sometimes also called “hash” when it is used in dumplings.

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Faschingskrapfen In days gone by, doughnuts were only sold during Carnival (called “Fasching”). Now they are available all year. Traditionally, doughnuts are filled with apricot jam. Frankfurter Created in Vienna by a Frankfurter. In some parts of the world they are called wienerwurst and in others hot dogs. Is everything clear? But for our purposes, the Frankfurter is a sausage.

Jourgebäck Sold only at exclusive shops: all kinds of baked goods (rolls, poppy seed rolls, salt sticks) in miniature format.

Tomatoes and pancakes

Gugelhupf The mother of all cakes, an indispensable part of every coffee break. Gulasch A dietary staple adopted from Hungary during the emperor’s day; diced meat and vegetables are put in a stew together. There are dozens of variations, from “gravy goulash” to “fiacre goulash”.

Kaiserschmarren The high point of Viennese cuisine is a fluffy, sweet scramble made with flour, eggs and milk. It is cooked like pancakes and then torn into little pieces.

Grammelschmalz Definitely not for those counting calories! Fragrant, melted pork fat with small cubes of bacon is delicious on bread.

Frittaten Pancakes cut into thin strips are a favourite with Austrians as an addition to soup, as are noodles and liver dumplings.

2

Ö

Backhendl The way the Viennese most like to eat chicken: cut into pieces, breaded with egg and breadcrumbs, and fried to perfection.

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Knödel From bread dumplings to apricot dumplings: no other cuisine in the world has as many variations on the dumpling as the Viennese. Added to soup, as a side dish, a main dish and dessert. Letscho The Hungarian relic from the days of the Danube monarchy is stewed paprika with tomatoes. Lungenbraten Behind this strange name is the best cut of beef: the filet. It has nothing to do with lungs, but with “Lume” or loin.

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Powidl This dark, thick, aromatic plum butter is popular as a filling for desserts. Quitte The quince is a relative of the apple and the pear. Eaten raw, it is unpalatable, but as jam, jelly (with venison) and as schnapps it’s a real insider’s tip.

Wiener Schnitzel Rostbraten Is not a roast, but a slice of beef stewed in dozens of different ways. The best known is the “onion Rostbraten”.

The classic dish for Austrian cuisine: a cutlet breaded with egg and breadcrumbs and then fried until it is golden.

Topfengolatschen Puff pastry or flaky pastry pockets are filled with curd cheese and are an essential component of the sweet side of alpine cuisine (curd cheese strudel, curd cheese dumplings, curd cheese cream).

An alphabetic tour through Austrian cuisine will help you decipher the menu and spike your appetite for delicious desserts and mouth-watering specialities: from A(pfelstrudel) to Z(irbenschnaps)

Uhudler Wine from southern Burgenland with a strawberry bouquet. A rarity made from ungrafted vines.

By Sabine Maier

© Ö W M / K O H L ( 1 ) ; W T V / G E R H A R D W E I N K I M ( 2 ) , R O B E RT O S M A R K ( 3 ) ; S T O C K F O O D ( 4 )

Nockerln Austrian-Hungarian-Czech archetype of the Italian gnocchi: made with flour, semolina, curd cheese or potato dough, sweet or with meat, cheese, vegetables. Ochsenschlepp This name might conjure up an ancient form of transportation; it is in fact an ox tail. A Viennese speciality, in particular as a soup. Palatschinken What’s important is what’s inside! Thin, hot pancakes are filled with marmalade, ice cream, curd cheese or meat. A favourite with all Austrian children. Paradeiser In particular in the East of Austria, the tomato still bears a name that is centuries old: “paradise apple”.

4

3

Schlagobers Cream. A “Sacher mit Schlag” is a piece of Sacher cake with a portion of whipped cream.

Tafelspitz Top quality beef cooked in soup and traditionally served with potatoes, chive sauce and apple horseradish. Tiroler Gröstl A well-known leftover dish in which diced leftover roast, onions, potatoes and marjoram are fried up together.

Vanillekipferln Half-moon shaped crispy pastries with a strong vanilla aroma. Are only eaten during Advent. Wurzelfleisch Beef ragout cooked with all sorts of root vegetables (carrots, celery, parsley root, leeks).

Zirbenschnaps High-proof schnapps made with sliced cones from the Swiss Stone pine.

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Wolfram Siebeck

About Austrian cuisine

by Wolfram Siebeck

t was at the cinema that I first learned about

all foreigners – with considerable problems.

“Beuschel” somewhat unusual, it was undeni-

Austrian gastronomy. As a very young fellow, I

Kren, Paradeiser, Blunzen and Beuscherl (see

ably to my taste. It was no different with boiled

saw films with Hans Moser in which he played a

glossary!) – where on earth was I? Asking the

beef and horseradish, and when it came to apri-

waiter swaggering around in Viennese restau-

waiters for help was of little use, as when they

cot dumplings, I was no exception to all the for-

rants, mumbling and grumbling in his inimitable

realized they were dealing with a young “kraut”,

eigners who get to know Austria’s pastries and

style. I thought it was very funny, and so I liked it. I

they made no effort to switch from their Vien-

desserts and are absolutely bowled over.

carried this liking over to Austrian gastronomy in

nese dialect to high German. Besides, I would

general. As a result, on my first visit to Vienna, I

never have understood them, because there

Being a visitor who, in holiday mood, gives

was prepared to like everything set before me in

were three musicians near my table playing

himself over to a new style of eating is a far cry

the bistros.

music that was as exotic as it was loud. So I

from being a professional eater who makes this

I

blindly ordered things of which I knew neither

new style the object of his study. In my case, it is

And lo and behold – I did like everything.

what they were not what they would taste like.

an occupation that unites my professional

At least, as a German bumping into Viennese

And I was delighted. I must add at this point that

curiosity and my passion. First, I questioned the

cuisine for the first time. It didn’t come easily.

I had already come to know and love Parisian

old saying that claims that a full stomach does

Just reading the menu presented me – and

bistro cuisine. And so, although I found

not like to study. The Latin scholars who set this

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rule up must have been Prussians in disguise

and seasonings to refine their dishes. Then

shows a way out of the neurotic search for fame

(and like the Prussians they had a weakness for

came industrialization with such useful inventions

of other chefs who are ashamed of the menus

the Spartans). I, on the other hand, took every

as Maggi, Ketchup, conserves and deep-frozen

that they cooked just yesterday. In Austria, no

opportunity while in Austria to fill my stomach

foods, and it too effected a dramatic change.

one needs to do that. And why should they? The

with the delicious specialities of the country.

After that, it was top chefs such as Escoffier (Belle

food of the imperial functionaries, befitting their

To this end I spent several winters in Vienna,

Epoque), Fernand Point (Moderne Zeiten) and

station, was boiled meat in its numerous varia-

persuaded most cordially by then Mayor Zilk.

Michel Guérard (Nouvelle Cuisine) who changed

tions; it has not only gone down in literature, it is

During that time, I went to a different bistro

haute cuisine so completely that it could truly

also exceptionally tasty and healthy.

every day, visited heurigers and coffeehouses,

be called a revolution. It is now more than twenty years since the

and described in books what I had eaten there There was no trace of any of them when I was

glycol scandal erupted, and since then Austria’s

exploring Viennese bistros and then travelled the

wine-growers have been producing magnificent

Vienna’s bistros are institutions, like just the

country from West to East. Naturally, the two last

wines, some of which are among the world’s

bistros of Paris and the bouchons of Lyon,

named icons did leave a trail in Austria too. But in

best. The kitchens of the country also benefit

which maintain the tradition of good traditional

such a reserved way, so carefully adapted to the

from this, because gourmets are paying more

cooking and modify it, if needs must be, to suit

general public’s eating habits that there were no

attention than ever to the combination of local

the tastes of the day. At all levels of society, the

rifts and no exasperation. It seemed as if the

wines and the relevant regional cuisine. What

preservation of traditions is generally attended to

entire fashionable movement had first been

would a Wiener schnitzel be without a glass of

by conservatives. For them, the thought that their

filtered through a fine sieve before it made its

Grüner Veltliner? A poached Danube catfish

fosterling should be modified to suit current

way into Austrian kitchens.

without a Wachau Riesling? And are there not

and whether I had liked it.

experts who claim that a Blaufränkischer wine

tastes is a nightmare. They vigorously resist all change ascribed to the spirit of the times, in other

Naturally there were three or four chefs in the

from Burgenland could tempt an ayatollah to

words fashion. But especially in Austrian cuisine,

country who could not resist the temptation and

drink alcohol?

it is precisely these kinds of changes that have

let loose on their guests with dolled up cuisine,

garnered it the admiration of emancipated eaters.

leaving the guests thinking they might be in

At the same time, there is a wonderful develop-

It’s true, it is also fashionable here, this push

Alice’s Wonderland. But they were always a

ment in organic agriculture, in which Austria is

towards culinary advancement, but it is a fashion

manageable minority. Restaurants and guest-

an international leader. Here too, the good sense

without any of the acclamations marked by

houses across the country continued to hold fast

of the eaters plays a decisive role. With demand

stupidity and arrogance that eaters in Germany

to good sense. In times of change, it would

on the part of discriminating gourmets, quality

and France have had to deal with for decades.

doubtlessly not be sensible to swim against the

products would have been holding a bad hand,

tide. And Austria’s chefs did not do that. But they

given the glut of cheap mass-produced sold by

This gratifying renouncement of any ostentatious

did keep their loyalty to Austrian products. It did

those out to destroy taste in the modern world.

outward show says much for the culinary intelli-

not occur to them to give up that which was

Anyone who concludes from this that Austria is

gence of Austrian chefs. At the same time, when

dear to them for the sake of a fad. In so doing,

an outdated country where nostalgic consumers

chefs in Germany and France were trying to outdo

they ensured a form of continuity in which the

have old-fashioned tastes should visit the alpine

each other in originality, when the existence of

customary did not disappear but there was

republic and be prepared for the fact that he

haute cuisine seemed to depend on the frenzied

nonetheless room for new ideas. I call this

will have to be pried away by force from the

creativity of truffle carvers, chefs in Austria did not

development the Austrian Culinary Miracle. It

country’s pots and pans.

•

ask what revolution would bring them fame and honours; they reformed the old recipes slightly, as marginally as an experienced housewife would change her style of cooking if extra, discriminating

© E L F I E S E M O TA N / Z E I T M A G A Z I N

guests were coming to dinner. Changes in cooking habits always come at the instigation of professionals. Never in the history of eating have commoners – or the lower echelons – revolutionized eating. It was the chefs of the nobility who introduced novelties, because only the upper levels of

In his books and columns, Germany’s most famous restaurant critic, Wolfram Siebeck, sounds off with passion and a sharp tongue at fast food, ready-to-eat meals, poor quality foods and dull German dishes. He became known through a series of cookery broadcasts in the early 1980s during which he invited renowned award-winning chefs to his home to cook a meal with him. Since then, in addition to countless articles for “Zeit” and “Feinschmecker”, he has written 45 books on the subject. His latest book, “Siebeck’s Side-swipes” includes his best columns from the “Feinschmecker”. Wolfram Siebeck recently turned eighty. His birthday menu was prepared by eight celebrated chefs, including Austrian chef Reinhard Gerer.

society could purchase the necessary products

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