History Of Costume

HISTORY OF COSTUME REFERENCE BOOK PAGE OF CONTENTS

Mesopotamia 1 Egypt 11 Crete, Mycenae & Greece 21 Etruria & Rome 31 Byzantine Empire 41 Barbaric, Carolingian & Romanesque 51 Early and High Gothic 61 Middle Gothic 71 Late Gothic & Early Italian Renaissance 81 High Renaissance 91 Early Mannerist Renaissance 101 Elizabethan-Jacobean 111 Early Baroque 121 Bibliography 131

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Mesopotamia - Cradle of Civilisation The earliest records of human civilizations were found in Mesopotamia, a large region centered between the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers, located in modern-day Iraq. There were a few civilizations which developed during that time, mainly the biblical civilizations such as Sumerians (3000–2000 BC), the Akkadians (2350– 2218 BC), the Babylonians (1894–1595 BC), the Assyrians (1380–612 BC), and the Persians (550–330 BC). Sumerians created the earliest civilization in Mesopotamia around. They created large city-states developed near the Euphrates River and were agriculture-based. Akkadians were a different ethnic group staying in the same area as the Sumerians. By 1849 BC, the Babylonians rose to power. Under the rule of the king Hammurabi of Babylon (1792– 1750 BC.), a code of laws (known as the Code of Sumerian Statue

Hammurabi) was developed and written down. The warring Assyrians started their dominance in

Mesopotamia, conquering many regions. It was a male-dominated culture and women had little say in the society. However, their harsh rule over the regions were not welcomed by many cultures, they were eventually overthrown. After the Assyrians were conquered, the Persians (present day Iranians) became the dominant culture in the region. The Persian Empire also conquered a vast area of land; however, they were just and benevolent in treating their new subjects, hence the

Akkadian Seal

empire was relatively stable during their reign. The empire eventually went to war with the Greek states, and was defeated by Alexander the Great in 333BC.

Relief, Persian Empire (358–338 B.C.)

Assyrians

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Silhouette The people living in Mesopotamia prefer simple silhouettes, as shaped by their garment cloth material. Types of Costumes & Accessories Sumerians •

Interest in rounded, cylindrical lines

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Fringed edges & Embroidery

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Kaunakes (tiered skirts)

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Ornamental rolled collars and Gold jewellery for the rich

Babylonians •

Fringed edges

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Tunic and skirts

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Left arm covered

Assyrians •

Similar to Sumerians and Babylonians

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Female have shawl over tunic.

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Prefer geometric patterns

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Jewellery such as bracelets, armlets, rings

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Opened toe shoes

Persian •

Candys: low flowing gown with wide sleeves

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Domed hat

Fabric Wool (especially in fringe), linen, leather

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Mesopotamia: Comparison 1 – Historical

Mesopotamian layered clothing with fringed details. Figures on the wall carvings feature tiered beards and wore flat open toed shoes.

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Mesopotamia: Comparison 1 – Modern

Fringed, layered skirt Balenciaga, Fall 2007, Vogue US September 2007. Model is seen with a layered dress with fringe details.

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Similarities •

Both outfits made use of fringe materials to decorate the plain fabrics of the dress tunic/skirt

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Silhouette: Both fringed garments give a tiered, layered look on the wearer’s lower torso.

Differences

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Uses: Fringe garment was a mainstay in Mesopotamian fashion. It was often used as ornamentation of garments. The fringe details may also be spiral shaped, much like the modern example, resembling that of the Tower of Babel. In this historical example, the protruding fringe details (leaf-shaped) were seen on the external wrapped garment worn above the tunic, next to the bordered patterns found on the fabric. In the modern example, the fringe details were attached to the ends of the spiral-layered skirt. Such layering can be found quite commonly in modern times to give a more layered effect on plain fabrics.

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Making of Garment: Fringe is probably sewn onto the garment in the Mesopotamian picture.

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Colour & Material: The Mesopotamian fringe is probably made of fleece, while the modern white fringe is made from fine threads, either sewn on, or the threads were protruding wefts from the fabric.

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Mesopotamia: Comparison 2 – Historical

Kaunake Sumerian statue of a woman in plain tiered and tufted wrap skirt.

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Mesopotamia: Comparison 1 – Modern

Tiered Dress Dior Fall 2007, W Magazine September 2007 Orange dress with tiered, conical details on the lower (skirt) portion.

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Similarities •

Both types of garment are worn by women

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Tiered skirts with a cone shaped silhouette with a bodice that shows the neckline

Differences •

Uses: Tiered skirts are worn by both men and women in Sumerian times, whereas in modern time, skirts are mostly worn by women.

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In the historical costume, the layered look achieved by tying the tufts around during weaving or by rows of fringe fabric to the skirt cloth. In comparison, the tiered portion was achieved by overlapping layers of cloth.

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It is hard to tell which colour or fabric is used in the old picture, but it could be either fleece or linen. In the Dior dress, a stiff form of satin is used, with a bright orange hue.

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The Mesopotamian cultures preferred a more cylindrical shape for their garments, probably because they were restricted in the type of materials they could use. In modern cultures, clothes are more tight-fitting, and in this case, it accentuates the difference in waist to hip proportion

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Ancient Egypt

The history of ancient Egypt is broken into several periods or eras: the Old Kingdom, the Middle Kingdom, and the New Kingdom. The Old Kingdom saw the construction of the majestic stone pyramids at Giza on the west bank of the Nile near the current Egyptian capital of Cairo. During the Old Kingdom Egyptians developed an accurate solar calendar and made huge achievements in art and culture. The Middle Kingdom period lasted from about 2000 BC till 1500 BC, and is known for its literature and the expansion of trade routes to other cultures such as Middle East. The New Kingdom period lasted from about 1500 to 750 BC During this time Egypt conquered its neighbors to the south and expanded its control into parts of Africa. The Empire displayed its wealth in lavish temples and more highly decorated clothes. Egyptian society began to break down after reaching its peak in prosperity and was eventually conquered by Macedonian leader Alexander the Great in 332 BC. From that point on the stable and distinctive culture of ancient Egypt slowly disappeared. The Egyptians were known for their majestic pyramids and tomb chambers, which were supposed to prepare their Pharaohs and the royalty for the afterlife, a concept they started believing in the Middle Kingdom. Much of their normal day activities are entwined with religion and superstition.

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Costume Style and Influence The Egyptians were influence by their religion and hieroglyphic language. Due to their extensive trade routes they were able to get many materials and inspirations for their clothing. Silhouette Egyptians emphasize a lot on their lower torso. They also appear to wear a lot of sheer garment. Early Egyptian men often go topless. Later periods saw a rise in the popularity of Types of Costumes & Accessories •

Headdresses for royalty

Men •

Loin cloth → Schenti

•

Shendot

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Gala Skirt

Women •

Kalasirisis (tight gown worn under shawl)

•

Sheer garment

•

Pleated garments

Fabric White is the preferred colour. Although red, blue, yellow and blue green dyes were available. Linen was used for most garments, while leather was used as a supplement.

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Egypt: Comparison 1 – Historical

Gala Skirt Egyptian man with a gala skirt, gathers convene on the right.

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Egypt: Comparison 1 – Modern

Dress with folds Dior Fall 2007, Vogue US September 2007 Mustard dress with belt. Folds on skirt gathered towards the left, with stone ornamentation.

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Similarities •

Both garments make use of pleats/gathers to form an asymmetrical fold pattern of the skirt, with the folds convening on one side of the hip

Differences •

Uses: the gala skirt (wrap skirt) was worn by high-ranking men mainly in the Old Kingdom, usually worn alone with no tops. These skirts are often seen on high ranking workmen of granaries. The Dior dress is considered common amongst modern women, and is usually worn for night or formal occasions. The folds on garment is not commonly found on men

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Making of Garment: Gala skirt is achieved by wrapping the cloth at least one and half times round the lower body, with the pleated section with the rounded hemline ending on the right. In the modern picture, the dress folds are made by sewing the top parts of the fold to the skirt with a brooch-like cover sewn over the convening point.

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Colour & Material: In drawings and statues, the gala skirt Is shown to have a gold sheen, probably caused by adding gold threads woven into the white linen skirt cloth. In the modern comparison, the colour of the seamless dress is in mustard yellow, probably consists of manufactured fibre textiles to give a smooth surface texture.

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Silhouette: The fabric of the gala skirt flows and clings on to the outline of the body, whereas the Dior dress skirt is slightly stiffer and does not cling as much.

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Egypt: Comparison 2 – Historical

Beaded Collar Sheer pleated garment with beaded collar. Egyptian lady in the picture also wearing wrist bracelet bands and a vulture headdress

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Egypt: Comparison 2 – Modern

Beaded/Sequin Collar Temperly London, Fall/Winter 2007 from style.com Long orange dress with prominent beaded collar.

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Similarities •

A banded collar was worn by both females, over a long body clinging garment dress.

•

Semi-circular lines

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Both are gold and brown in colour, and made of beads.

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Both are used as ornamental pieces for the rich, or for special occasions.

Differences •

Uses: This type of Egyptian collar is worn by rich women during the New Empire. In modern times, such jewellery pieces are used mainly for special events and parties.

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Egyptian collar is made of semiprecious stones, faience or glass beads and usually extended from shoulder to shoulder, and is balanced at the back with a weight. In the modern example, the collar appears to be double sided, and is made of sequins, beads, and gold plated strips. The modern beaded collar also has more allowance at the neck (wider scope).

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Crete, Mycenae & Greece The Minoan civilization was at its height between 1750 and 1580 B.C. (middle period). During this time, the palace at Knossos was built and the most exciting development at Minoan costume was seen. Women wore tiered skirts that fell straight from the hips and then filled out to a wide hem. Above the skirt, they wore a tight-fitting short sleeved bodice. In most cases (as shown in frescoes), the breasts were entirely exposed with the bodice laced up below the bust. The civilization was overtaken by the Mycenaean civilization eventually. The Mycenaean culture began to flourish on mainland Greece and invaded Crete. Natural catastrophes caused the Mycenaean culture to flounder, and Mycenaeans dispersed to other areas. As the Mycenaeans left Greece, the Dorians, ancient Greeks, conquered the land. This period was also known as the Dark Ages. By about 800 BC, Greek culture began to flourish again with increasing population, the development of trade colonies, and the rediscovery of the skill of writing. The period from 500 to 336 B.C.E. is considered the Classical Period of Greek history. During this time Athens dominated Greek culture and politics. The ideas about art, architecture, philosophy, business, culture, and politics and literature that developed during this period laid the foundation of modern Western civilization.

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Costume Style and Influence Silhouette Minoans, early inhabitants of present day Greece preferred artificial silhouettes and snake-like hair, while Mycenaeans preferred a rougher, present-day ‘biker look’ with leather and metallic accessories. Classical Greeks love soft draping to create natural folds over the human body. Types of Costumes & Accessories Minoan/Mycenaean •

Tight sleeved cylindrical skirts

•

Perizoma

Ionic capital, Temple of Artemis at Sardis, 4th century B.C.

Archaic Greece •

Petasos (hat)

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Chiton, kolobus

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Exomis

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Chlamys

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Greaves (shin guard)

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Fibula (Brooch)

Classical Greece •

Chiton (Ionic & Doric)

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Peplos

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Himation, diplax

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Cuirass

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Sakko, Stephane, Phrygian, Sphendore

Fabric Linen and Wool

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Greece: Comparison 1 – Historical

Doric Chiton Greek woman wearing a white Doric chiton attached on both shoulders. Embroidery or print by the edges.

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Greece: Comparison 1 – Modern

Greek-inspired Sleeveless Satin Dress Chanel perfume ad, FashionSpot.com Satin dress inspired by the Doric chiton.

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Similarities •

The silhouettes of both garments are very similar, with soft fabrics draping over the body, forming natural folds. The fabrics are attached on both shoulders, and there are huge allowances for the arms (huge arm holes)

Differences •

Uses: The Doric chiton in classical Greece was worn by most females in everyday lives, be it for outdoor or indoor usage. The style has remained popular in modern times, but probably is used more often for gowns and formal blouses.

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Making of Garment: The Classical Greek Doric chiton is worn by attaching folding the upper edge of the fabric down to reach just below the chest, and the garment is secured by attaching the fabric on both shoulders with brooches or fibulas. For the modern variation of this style, the dress is sewn on the sides, with holes cut at the arms and neck to achieve this look.

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Colour & Material: In the Greek picture the woman is seen to be wearing a white chiton made of lightweight material, with an apolytgma (over fold) that has a border print. In the modern version, the velvet red dress is made of soft satin.

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Silhouette: Slight variation in the silhouette due to the presence of over fold in the classical Doric chiton, which drapes down by the side. The Chanel dress has a simpler clean cut.

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Greece: Comparison 2 – Historical

Man wears a chlamys pinned with a fibula on the right shoulder with clavi (purple stripes), underneath which is a chiton or kolobus.

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Greece: Comparison 2 – Modern

Cape Giambattista Valli Fall 2007, style.com

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Similarities •

Both are over garments that are essentially a piece of cloth draped over the shoulder, and secured by pinning/knotting at the neck

Differences •

Uses: Chlamys was one of the few items of ancient Greek clothing worn exclusively by men. It was a multipurpose cape that active people wore or carried around for the outdoors. The modern cape is not often used, particularly in urbanized cities. In this case, the cape is purely decorative.

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Making of Garment: Chlamys is essentially a piece of cloth tied or pinned at the right shoulder (with a fibula), or tied at the chest. In the modern picture, the cape is tied in a huge knot at the front.

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Colour & Material: The modern cape is brightly coloured in striking yellow, and made of stiff synthetic fabric, whereas the chlamys is made of a fabric with high drape. The chlamys is also decorated with clavi, purple border designs.

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Silhouette: The modern cape-like over garment tied at the front, with the ends of the cape tucked to the bottom of the dress, giving a rounded overall appearance at the ends of the cape. On the other hand, the chlamys drapes naturally over the man in the figure.

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Etruria & Rome In the ancient times many city-states developed in the Italian peninsula. The most powerful of these city-states was inhabited by the Etruscans, who dominated most of Italy from about 800 BC until they were defeated by the Romans in 250 BC. At the height of its power, the Roman Empire stretched from Spain in the west to present-day Syria in the east, and from Egypt in the south to Britain in the north. The Romans borrowed many costume trends from the Etruscans. During the years of the Roman Republic (509–27 B.C.E.), they built a vast system of roadways and waterways that connected Europe and parts of the Middle East. They created a system of republican government, and established trade routes that stretched throughout the world, including a thriving trade with China and the Far East. Yet with

great wealth came the slow

corruption of the

empire. The once sparing

and simple Romans

became lovers of luxury.

Roman senators

made sumptuary laws to

limit the ways people

could dress and entertain

themselves. The first

Roman sumptuary law was

called the Lex Appia. It declared that no woman could possess more than a half ounce of gold, wear a stola, or dress, of different colors, or ride in a carriage in any city unless for a public ceremony. Many people resented these sumptuary laws. The rulers abused their power and indulged in luxuries and slowly lost the support of the civilians. Conflict between the rulers of different cities, each with their own armies, soon began to tear the empire apart in a long civil war. The emperor Diocletian (c. 245–c. 316) reorganized the empire in 293 AD., creating a Western Roman Empire centered in Rome and an Eastern Roman Empire centered in modernday Turkey.

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Costume Style and Influence Greeks inherited a lot of fashion styles from the Greeks and other Mediterranean cultures Silhouette Well draped lines, with more decoration and ornamentation Types of Costumes & Accessories •

Toga: Romans were often called gens togata, or people of the toga.

•

Palla

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Stola (Slip Dress)

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Tunica

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Paenula (rain coat)

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Colubium •

Solea (sandals)

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Crepida (covered shoes)

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Callgula (boots)

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Dalmaticas

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Flammeum (veil)

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Lorica (brass protection)

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Strophinum (bikini-like)

The Roman emperor Nero wearing feminalia

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Rome: Comparison 1 – Historical

Solea Roman man wearing solea (sandals)

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Rome : Comparison 1 – Modern

Cork Sandals Phillip Lim Spring Summer 2008, style.com

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Similarities •

Both pictures show the people wearing red, flat, open sandals that are strapped/with strap patterns.

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Both sandals are secured by knots at the ankle

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The general shape of the sandal is similar, with cross strap patterns.

Differences

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Uses: Roman men wore the solea both indoors and outdoors. Sandals in the modern days are mostly worn on casual occasions, and for outdoors usage.

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Making of Garment: The solea has a characteristic long strap in the middle, with straps ‘branching out’ to hold the sole and feet together. The middle strap divides the big toe from the rest of the toes. In the modern comparison, the sandal laces are laced through hoops secured onto the sole; laced straps crisscross above the feet.

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Colour & Material: Both sandals are laced but probably made of different materials. Sole of the solea may be made of wood, while that of the modern sandal is made of cork/compressed wood. The laces used on the modern sandal looked similar to shoe laces (cotton)

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Rome: Comparison 2 – Historical

Strophinum Women wearing strophinum playing some ball game.

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Rome : Comparison 2 – Modern

Sports Bras Brazilian beach volley-ballers wearing sports bras, bikinis and shorts.

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Similarities •

Both pictures show women wearing 2-piece garments that resembles the present day lingerie/bikini

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Both garments seemed to be worn during sports to enable greater flexibility, and are worn by women for modesty reasons.

Differences •

Making of Garment: The fabric that makes up upper torso garment of the strophinum is probably stitched or pinned together. While the lower torso is made by wrapping. The modern version is made by using stretchable materials and sewn on the sides.

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Colour & Material: Present day bikinis/sports bra uses lycra and other elastic materials and are usually tightly fitted to the body. The strophinum appears to be made of linen or some natural fibre that has little elastic stretch. Colour of the strophinum looks one toned (brownish, as depicted by fresco), while that of the sports bra is brightly coloured

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Silhouette: The silhouette of the modern sports bikini is well fitting, whereas the strophinum looks rather skimpy and likely to fall apart when one engages in vigorous sports.

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Byzantine Empire Following the death of the Roman emperor Theodosius (347–395 AD.), the great Roman Empire was divided into two, with the Eastern Roman Empire having the city of Constantinople, once known as Byzantium, as its capital. The Western Roman Empire came under attacks from barbarian (people from foreign lands) tribes, leading to the downfall of eventual fall of Rome in 476, when Emperor Romulus was killed. Only the Eastern Roman Empire, known today as the Byzantine Empire, survived. The center of Byzantine culture was the Christian church, and it was headed by the emperor. But Byzantines and later Italians, who were Roman Catholic, fought over who held the highest authority: with Italians favoring the pope in Rome and the Byzantines preferring the bishop of Constantinople. In 1054 the two parts of the church would split, into the Eastern Orthodox Church and the Roman Catholic Church, in what is known as the Great Schism. Beginning in the eleventh century C.E. Christian armies from western Europe began to travel through the Byzantine Empire to reclaim “holy lands” from Turks and Arabs in the Middle East. These armies, known as crusaders, sparked a series of wars with Turks The Church of Hagia Sophia

and Arabs that brought great conflict to the

still stands in Istanbul, Turkey

empire. Byzantines argued with the crusaders,

and both sides fought against their non-Christian enemies. These conflicts, extended over a period of hundreds of years, exhausted the size and strength of the empire. In 1453 a Turkish army led by Mehmed II (1432–1481) captured the city of Constantinople and ended the Byzantine Empire.

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Costume Style and Influence Influenced by Rome, Christianity and other cultures from the East Silhouette Long sleeves and full garment length (modesty), semi-fitted garments. Types of Costumes & Accessories •

Chasuble

•

Pallium/ lorum

•

Dalmatic

•

Palla & Stola

•

Superhumeral

•

Segmentae (shoulder) & tablions (cape)

•

Paludamentum

•

Pointed shoes

•

Lorica

•

Hosa

Fabric •

Cotton. linen, wool and silk

•

Brocade, embroidery

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Byzantine: Comparison 1 – Historical

Royal Crown & Accessories Restored mosaic showing Byzantine emperor Justinian wearing ornate imperial crown with pearls as well as a collared band (superhumeral?). He is also seen to be wearing paludamentum, with a tunica beneath that sports a segmentae

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Byzantine: Comparison 1 – Modern

Chunky Accessories Versace Atelier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1992, Vogue Italia March 1992 Naomi Campbell shown here sporting garment with ornate and oriental designs with hanging fringe details. She also sports chunky jewellery on her neck and hairline.

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Similarities •

Both outfits include chunky and intricate accessories.

•

Usage of protruding precious or semi-precious stones in accessories

•

Cape-like over garment

•

Both worn by the rich (royal crown, haute couture) and powerful.

Differences

•

Making of Accessories& Materia Used: The crown worn by Emperor Justinian is made by attaching precious stones and pearls to the crown base. Cloisonné enameling could be done to place the small panels of stones with raised gold borders. Pearl drops dangling down from the crown. The chunky accessories worn by the model is made of metallic chunks and probably some semi-precious stones as well. Fringe dangling from the collar piece of accessory.

•

Colour: Gold is used on both accessories, but the Justinian accessories consist of plenty of white pearls and multi-coloured (blue, red) stones. The accessories worn by Naomi Campbell are mostly gold in colour with traces of red, green and black outlines interspersed.

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Byzantine: Comparison 2 – Historical

Byzantine Mosaic Art, showing a Christian man in tunic robes with intricate, repetitive, dots and geometric designs.

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Byzantine: Comparison 2 – Modern

Oscar de la Renta Spring Summer 2008, Yahoo News Garment and accessories sport geometric designs with shapes and dots

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Similarities •

Geometrical and repetitive shapes and patterns on the garments, using contrasting colours.

Differences

•

History & Uses: The Byzantine Empire was in part, influenced by many cultures as it controls the major trade routes linking Europe to the Persian Empire, Arab States and the East. The geometrical patterns are used on their fabrics, along with much ornamentation. Such garments are worn by both men and women. In the modern context, geometrical shapes are still very favoured on clothing, as shown in the picture. Such shapes and patterns are able to draw attention to certain parts of the torso, and create visual texture for the garment

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Making of Garment: Old Byzantine garment is probably dyed with natural dyes to make the prints, or the prints may be embroidered (not clear from mosaic). In the modern picture, the fabrics were probably printed on by hot presses.

•

Colour & Material: Colours used in the Byzantine robes were mainly brown, white and yellow, while that used in the modern comparison used off white, black and brown.

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Silhouette: The geometric patterns on Byzantine mosaic are used uniformly on all parts of the robe while that of the Modern comparison applied different patterns on different parts of the outfit. The modern garment consists of a halter top and a skirt, with the skirt having a band of different colour at the hip area, hence giving a ‘belted’ look for the entire outfit.

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Western Europe: The Dark Ages (AD 500 to approx AD 1000) Barbaric, Carolingian & Romanesque After Roman Empire collapsed in 476, much of the civilization that the Romans had developed collapsed. Well-built cities were destroyed, centers of learning were ruined, and trade routes were disrupted. The Power and army were split, and the remnants of the Roman Empire had to compete with nomadic ‘barbaric’ tribes for land and resources. Tribes who took power kept their control local and were constantly at war with each other. There was a breakdown in social and economic linkages between each area. The disorder they brought ushered in an era in European history that some renaissance era historians call the Dark Ages, which lasted from the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian (527) till Charlemagne became emperor of the Holy Roman Empire in 800. Charlemagne’s rule was characterized by some renewed trade among the emerging states of France, Italy, and Spain. Renewed interest in Classical Antiquity, education, style and art (inclusive of costume styles) caused a mini Carolingian Renaissance during his reign. However, upon Charlemagne’s death the empire fell apart again leading to a new Dark Ages. Societies began to develop under a feudal system. The Roman Catholic Church was the most powerful institution in all of Europe during this period. It was the maintainer of historical and literary records. The church was also a powerful economic entity, collecting taxes from all citizens. Cathedrals and monasteries were built by the church, from which many of the records surviving from them allowed historians and researchers to understand the culture and background of the Dark Ages. After the turn of the millennia, there was an increased interest in arts and culture, leading to new art sculptures, clothing and architectural monuments done in a Romanesque style. There was also a rise in the number of medieval communes

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(fortified towns), rediscovery of Roman law, and the beginnings of vernacular literature. The First Crusades began in 1095. These crusades consisted of several wars forged in the name of religion to reclaim the Holy Lands in Middle East from Muslim nations. The campaigns lasted from about 1090 to 1300. Trade routes opened up again to the Mediterranean and Asia Minor. These crusaders crossed vast distances and learned a great deal about foreign lands, including the Byzantine Empire (476–1453) nearer to the Far East. They brought back with them new ideas, access to new trading partners, and hence adopted new styles in clothing. Costume Style and Influence Silhouette Long garments covered the body. Limited by materials available. Generally more fitted towards the Romanesque times. Types of Costumes & Accessories •

Under tunic and over Tunic (long rectangle of wool with a hole in the center for the head)

•

Hose and Breeches→ bracchae (trousers)

•

Women tunics fall to the ground → Bilaut

•

Paludmenadium → Mantle (Cape-like all purpose wrap, fastened at the right shoulder with a small metal clasp or brooch)

•

Baldric

Fabric Wool as their primary fabric

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Carolingian: Comparison 1 – Historical

Embroidered Borders Carolingian (Frankish) people wearing embroidered bands on tunic garments and over garments. Female tunic with wide open sleeves.

44

Carolingian: Comparison 1 – Modern

Embroidered borders Andrew Gn, Fall 2007, Female Magazine September 2007 Black coat with embroidered borders over a short black dress.

45

Similarities •

Both examples made use of embroidered borders on the edges of the garment

Differences

•

Uses: In the first picture, the Frankish people were wearing tunics underneath their mantles, which had embroidered borders. In the modern example, the model was wearing a outer coat over a dress. The embroidery patterns were on the front edges of the coat, as well as on the sleeves of the coat.

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Making of Garment: The embroidery was achieved by weaving thread onto the mantle, while the modern coat embroidery could be done by machines.

•

Colour & Pattern: The colour of the borders on the mantle were yellow or gold, a contrasting colour to the base colour of the mantle, while the colour of the modern piece is the same as the base colour of the coat (black). The modern design is less ‘loud’ than the Carolingian one. Patterns used for the Andrew Gn coat are simple rectangular designs, while those used by the Carolingians appear to be more intricate, with motifs and swirls.

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Carolingian: Comparison 2 – Historical

Bliaut The Accolade, Edmund Blair Leighton. A lady in bliaut blesses a knight (?).

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Carolingian: Comparison 1 – Modern

Flare Sleeves Balenciaga Fall 2007, Vogue US September 2007 Ethnic inspired garment with flared sleeves which is more tight-fitted at the upper arms.

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Similarities •

Both garments use wide sleeves which are more tight-fitted at the upper arms, and flares out at the end.

•

Both outfits are worn by women.

Differences •

The bliaut is a tight-fitting full-length tunic belted at the waist. In the picture, armlets are placed on the upper arms, above the flare sleeves. In comparison, the sleeves of the ethnic dress are not as dramatically long as that of the bliaut. From the pictures it appeared that the bliaut was a common form of garment for females in the middle ages, however, flare sleeves are not as popular in the present times.

•

Making of Garment & Materials: The bliaut it a long tunic that is tailored to cling tightly to the upper body. Semi-circular skirts are cut and sewn separately. The sleeves and the dress falls naturally. (Girl wears a cote underneath) In the Balenciaga outfit, the bell-sleeves are made of satinedged chiffon, attached to the rest of the fringed outfit.

•

Colour: The modern bell sleeves are beige while those of the bliaut are white.

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12th & 13th Centuries – Early & High Gothic/ High Middle Ages Gothic art was a Medieval art movement that lasted about 200 years, coinciding with the early beginnings and height of the bubonic plague. It began in France out of the Romanesque period in the mid-12th century. Under the feudal system a local king sat at the top of the social order. He was supported by nobles, who swore their loyalty to the king and provided him with soldiers, called knights, for protection. The nobles controlled the land, which was worked by peasants and other members of the lower classes. During this period, the system began to lose some of its authority as the Church grows more powerful and centralized. Cathedrals were named after the Virgin Mary, and religious art flourished.

Notre Dame

Figures from Cathedral of Chartres

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Costume Style and Influence Influenced by the Church and the Crusaders, less ornamentation. Silhouette Structure, simplicity, proportion and graceful draping is valued Types of Costumes & Accessories •

Cote & Surcote

•

Pourpoint o Short, sleeveless or sleeved jacket tailored close to torso o Comfortable undergarment to provide padding undergarment, but slowly became outerwear. o Hose that knights wore on their legs tied to anchors on the pourpoint, called points

•

Mantle o People start to drape it over both shoulders and fasten it at the center of the chest

o Elaborate mantles made of rich silk, trimmed with soft fur, and fastened with an expensive jewelled brooch

•

Wimple (seen in picture)

•

Bliaut

•

Ganache and Gardcorps

•

Hose and Breeches

•

Hoods (Liripipes)

Fabric •

Linen

•

Finer woolens and silks

•

More sophisticated weaving methods

51

Early/High Gothic: Comparison 1 – Historical

Lady in the early Gothic era, wearing a sleeveless surcote/sideless gown over a cote.

52

Early/High Gothic: Comparison 1 – Modern

Topshop Unique Spring Summer 2007, style.com. Wide scope overalls garment over tube dress/top.

53

Similarities

•

Both are sideless and worn as an over-garment above other clothing.

•

Both garments allows wearers to rest their hands in the opening.

•

Arm holes stretch down to the waist

Differences

•

Uses: In the early gothic period, these sideless surcotes are worn over cotes. They are influenced by the cyclas worn by soldiers. The colours of the surcotes and cotes are often contrasting. In the modern example, the pink overalls resemble the denim overalls we often see, and are rather popular with younger girls.

•

Colour & Material: The sideless surcote is probably made from linen, while the pink overalls maybe made with cotton or cotton blend materials. Synthetic colouring is used for the modern fabric, whereas the blue in the surcote is from naturally derived dyes.

•

Silhouette: A T-shaped silhouette is seen for both garments, although in the present day, the garment beneath the overalls is likely to be sleeveless (As seen in the picture), unlike the mediaeval version, whereby the surcote is worn above a long sleeve cote.

•

Hemline of the modern overalls is also shorter than the sideless surcote.

•

Modern overalls are cut in a more angular fashion.

54

Early/High Gothic: Comparison 2 – Historical

Chain Mail Mediaeval soldiers wearing chain mails and armored metal helmets

55

Early/High Gothic: Comparison 2 – Modern

Mesh Headdress Unknown designer (caption was unclear), Vogue US, April 1998 Model wearing chain mail-inspired ornamental headdress.

56

Similarities •

Small metal parts are linked together in a pattern to form a mesh.

•

Shiny surface

Differences

•

Uses: The chain mail is made up of small metal rings, whereas the modern headdress is made up of metal plates connected together. The chainmail was used in medieval times as an armour to prevent weapon penetration, whereas the chainmail headdress (resembling a mail coif) is used today solely for decorative purposes. It is not used for common occasions.

•

Making of Garment: The medieval chain mail is made by connecting one ring to 4/6 others, so on and so forth. In the modern headdress, one metallic disc is connected to 6 others.

•

Colour & Material: The material used in the chain mail was probably iron, while that of the headdress may be metal or plastic discs coated with metallic sheen.

•

Silhouette: Both garments cling on to the body due to the small

interlocking rings/discs.

57

14th Century – Middle Gothic/ High to Late Middle Ages The Great Plague wiped out nearly one-third of Western Europe’s population between 1348 and 1350. It had serious consequences to Europe’s societal structure, economy, arts and culture. Many people started to question the authority of the Catholic Church. It also brought some dramatic styles to the garment fashion during that period. During and after the plague people sought out fancier, more controversial and more highly ornamented clothing. Historians believe it had to do with Poulaines, a type of shoe with long pointed toe allowance

seeing a large number of their relatives and friends passing away; with life seeming transient and unpredictable, they sought to seize the day and enjoy

while they can. Towards the last half of 14th century, many extreme fashions came about as Europe, with a much reduced population consisting of many young people, tried to recover from the devastation caused by the Black Death.

58

Costume Style And Influence •

By 1300 there were seven hundred tailors working in Paris, France. Tailors across Europe developed new methods of cutting and sewing that allowed for closer fitting, more intricately tailored clothing.

•

The Great Plague brought about extremities and many fashion fads for the people

Silhouette Slim fitting cuts, elegant S-curve lines and the ‘pregnant’ look was fashionable for women. Types of Costumes & Accessories •

Cote → Cotehardie

•

Bliaut → Houppelande (Hemline and its wide sleeves could reach to or trail on the ground o Hemline and sleeve cuffs often trimmed or scalloped into decorative patterns. Sometimes even with fur as trimmings o Made with Silk, velvet or brocade fabric. o Sideless gown

•

Tippets and pointy shoes

•

Steeple Headdress, Chaperon

•

Heraldry (Coat of Arms), castlellated details

Fabric o Silk, linen, woolens o Silk velvets, brocade, taffetas, samite

1340–1350 French

59

Middle Gothic: Comparison 1 – Historical

Parti-coloured tunic A servant wearing parti-coloured garment over hose in Supper in the House of the Pharisee by Giotto, early 14th century

60

Early/High Gothic: Comparison 1 – Modern

Split-coloured dress Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2008 from style.com A sleeved dress with contrasting colours on the left and right.

61

Similarities •

Multi-coloured, contrasting colours on tunic dress

•

It is likely that 2 sides of the fabric is sewn together at the centre for the both garments.

Differences

•

Uses: Garments in middle gothic era are often divided into halves or quarters, with each colour representing their families or allegiance. In the Marc Jacobs dress, the colours are also divided in 2 halves with mirror images of motifs and patterns on both sides.

•

Colour & Material: White and blue dyes for the old garment, whereas the modern garment using a variety of colours for the fabric, such as different shades of brown and blue. White is used on both garments, as it is an obvious choice to show contrast between two colours.

•

Silhouette: Both garments have similar silhouettes, although the modern garment is fitting and definitely better tailored to fit the body and arms. The dress also made use of asymmetrical length sleeves to heighten the contrast between left and right sides of the body.

62

Early/High Gothic: Comparison 2 – Historical

Cotehardie Margaret Ferrers, wife of Thomas de Beauchamp, 4th Earl of Warwick (and dog) She is wearing a cotehardie under a mantle, and probably a half crescent headdress. 63

Early/High Gothic: Comparison2 – Modern

Long Sleeved Dress Chado Ralph Rucci, unknown year. FashionSpot.com Long, sleeved dress that is closely fitted

64

Similarities •

Both garments are long-sleeved and well tailored to suit the upper body contours. Bottom portion flares out.

•

Silhouette: Both garments gives a similar body contour, which highlights the waist

Differences

•

Uses: The cotehardie was a common unisex garment that resembles the cote but is more closely fitted. In this example, the cotehardie is worn beneath the mantle. The sleeves reach to cover half of the palms. In the modern version, the sleeves reach to the wrists, and hemline of the skirt is just slightly below the knees

•

Colour & Material: the historical example is made of wool or linen fabric, and consists of bright and geometrical patterns. The modern example is made of acrylic or cotton/woolen blends. The blueish grey colour slowly mixes to grey.

65

Early to Middle 15th Century – Late Gothic & Early Italian Renaissance At the start of the 15th century, most parts of Europe were characterized by distinct and often warring kingdoms. In England and France however, lords began to ally themselves behind the power of one king. (Henry VII united England during his reign, from 1485 to 1509, and Francis I later did the same for France during his reign from 1515 to 1547) These alliances of nobles were preferred by the people as they now only had to pay tribute to one king. This process eventually organized Europe into the nations we know today. This Renaissance began in Italy, especially around the city of Florence, and in a region known as Burgundy, which included parts of modern-day France and Holland. The Italian states developed banking and trading systems that helped stabilize the economy throughout Europe. The Renaissance is known for its abundance of fine art and architecture, and for its renewed emphasis on literature and learning. But it also encouraged Sienese, The Presentation of the Virgin, c. 1400

merchants and traders to expand their businesses.

Soon these businesspeople extended their trade further and further. One of the most thriving industries in early Europe was the textile industry, which made rich fabrics available to more people than ever before. Soon the Renaissance spread to the rest of Europe. As the economy grew it gave rise to a middle class that could afford more luxuries in life. More people began to acquire the wealth that allowed them to dress more extravagantly and keep up with the newly popular styles.

66

Costume Style and Influence The fashion style of this period was influenced by the Florence Renaissance Silhouette Focus is on the abdomen. Simplicity, balance and natural form of the body is preferred Types of Costumes & Accessories •

Houppelande o Tailored so that the gown fit closely across the upper body, while the skirt billowed outward. Tighter sleeves

•

Tall, Cone-shaped Headdress & Escoffins (high rounded headdress)

•

Pourpoint → Doublet with Hose/Breeches

•

Padding of shoulders, Bell sleeves, Organ pleating

•

Slashings o Introduced by the Swiss Soldiers

Fabric •

Silk, taffeta, and velvet, along with the traditional cotton, wool, and linen

•

Chiffon and crepe fabrics were available

•

Fur

67

Late Gothic/Early Italian Renaissance: Comparison 1 – Historical

Squareish V-neckline The Goldsmith's Shop, Petrus Christus, 1449 Lady wearing a houppelande with a low v neck line and an empire waistline, with a triangular modesty panel. Wearing a sheer veiled headdress

68

Late Gothic/Early Italian Renaissance: Comparison 1 – Modern

V-neckline Alberta Feretti summer 2006, TheFashionSpot Dress with a low V neckline and an empire waistline.

69

Similarities •

Both garments feature a dress with a deep V-neckline with an empire waistline

•

Shows the collarbone, and is considered sexy in both periods.

Differences

•

Uses: Houppelande shown here is worn by a well to do lady with a high waistline. A modesty piece is worn to cover the chest. In the modern version of the V-neck dress however, no such piece is required as V-neckline are common in today’s context.

•

Making of Garment: the V neckline is achieved by pulling the fabric together and securing the houppelande with a belt waisted high. The modesty piece converts the actual neckline to a squarish one. The modern dress was sewn together with a blue border made of sheer materials, whereas the houppelande V neckline was sewn with a dark red satin/taffeta material (same material as the under sleeve)

70

Late Gothic/Early Italian Renaissance: Comparison 2 – Historical

Houppelande The Descent from the Cross, Rogier van der Weyden, 1430-35

71

Late Gothic / Early Italian Renaissance: Comparison 2 – Modern

Gold Shimmering V-neck robe dress Hermes Fall Winter 07/08, Style.com Gold shimmering robe dress with deep v neckline, secured by belt beneath the chest.

72

Similarities

•

Dress is secured by a belt just below the chest.

•

Robe-like cut, and drapes naturally waist-down.

Differences

•

Uses: Houppelande is worn by both men and women, although the style here is worn solely by women. The modern dress is only found on women.

•

In the picture, the green houppelande is lined with grey fur, secured with a string bound just below the chest. The lady also has an under gown worn beneath. In comparison, the gold- tone modern piece consists just of the outer dress robe, belted at the same spot, and has a circular hemline.

•

The houppelande also consists of sleeves (lined with grey fur as well) while the modern dress is sleeveless, but matched with a rich gold jacket and hat.

•

Making of Garment: the houppelande is probably made of wool, while the sleeveless dress is made of textured fabric.

73

Later 15th Century – High Renaissance: Rise of Classical Arts By the middle of the fifteenth century, the Renaissance movement had spread to the rest of Europe. The end of the Hundred Years’ War (1337–1453) between France and England allowed those two emerging nations to concentrate their energies on internal issues rather than war. Spain, Portugal and Germany grew more stable. The increased stability in these nations allowed people to concentrate on developing trade and commerce, which in turn created wealth for a larger number of people. This growing interest in trade also fed directly into the rise of exploration that saw European explorers, especially from Spain, Portugal, and England, discovering new territories and trade routes around the world.

Christopher Columbus

74

Costume Style and Influence Embrace of the physical sensuality of the body during the Renaissance Silhouette Fabrics were thicker Types of Costumes & Accessories •

Pourpoint → Doublet •

Initially buttoned to the neck, but evolved to V neck, with long laces crossing the V and revealing a shirt or ruffles beneath, usually made of white linen

•

Shoes o Less pointy in late 15th century o Blunt, squared-off toes

•

Vertugados o Small hoop just below the waist, with ever larger hoops further down the skirt. These hoops gave the skirt a perfect cone shape and allowed the outer skirt to drape in a smooth manner

•

Dagging and slashing were decorative techniques that were used to distinguish and beautify garments.

•

Points to attach garments together

•

Upper, lower hose

Fabric •

Woolens were still the staple

•

Metallic cloths, satins, gauzes, taffeta were more sophisticated

75

High Renaissance: Comparison 1 – Historical

Renaissance Painting

Puffs and slashings on the gown worn by the lady, late 15th century

76

High Renaissance: Comparison 1 – Modern

Slashings Tian, Bella Citta February 2007

77

Similarities •

Slashings are used over the underlying layer of fabric to create a contrasting pattern.

Differences

•

Uses: Slashings were a fashion trend during the renaissance period as the mass public start to adopt this Swiss trend. It was found on men on their doublets and jerkins, as well as on women, as shown in the historical example. In this case, the lady is wearing a gown with slashed parts, with the edges of the cut secured by stitches. Fabric from the underlying layer is pulled through the gaps to create a puffed look. In the modern example, the model is wearing a tube top which has slits across the front portion of the garment. This look is not adopted commonly by the masses, although it could be found sporadically across different seasons. The white underlayer could be seen clearly between the slit gaps.

•

Making of Garment: During the Renaissance, garments were cut to create slits, dagging may also be done. In the modern example, the strips were either cut, or created by attaching strips of cloth onto the base fabric

78

High Renaissance: Comparison 2 – Historical

Lashing Guard with particoloured, slashed and lashed garment.

79

High Renaissance: Comparison 2 – Modern

Lashing Fendi Fall 2006, modaonline Long black dress with lashings and sheer flared sleeves.

80

Similarities •

Both garments are lashed, segmenting the garment.

•

In both cases, the strings/thread used to segment the portions are not visible to outsiders.

Differences •

Uses: Lashings, like slashings, were a fashion trend during that period. Lashing was done on the sleeves (doublets and houppelande), on breeches as well as on the torso. In the contemporary fashion example, the horizontal ‘lashings’ were sewn into the dress, creating a segmented look. In contrast, lashings on the male in the historical example were created by using strings or band to tie the garment in a spiral fashion.

•

Silhouette: The lashings on the man resembles that of the Tower of Babel.

81

Early to Middle 16th Century – Early Mannerist Renaissance The rise of universities and the creation of the first printing press in 1455, allowed greater literacy amongst the population, as book publications flourish, and support for the arts by wealthy patrons increase. Expanding trade created wealth and new industries, and the middle class grew in wealth. The invention of new technologies revolutionized agriculture and industry, allowing greater population growth. Portrait of a Man

The Protestant Reformation began

Francesco

during this period. The Protestants

Salviati 1541

created distinct religions of their own. Henry VIII of England (1491–1547) subsequently declared himself the head of the Church of England. The overall decline in authority of the Catholic Church led to the consolidated authority of the ruling monarchies. Mannerism, a style in art and architecture (c.1520–1600), originating in Italy as a reaction against the equilibrium of form and proportions characteristic of the High Renaissance. Mannerism art is characterised by with elongated proportions, affected poses, and unclear perspective.

82

Costume Style and Influence •

Fashion historian of Ruth M. Green commented that, “fashion was initiated in courts and spread from them like ripples in a pond.”

•

Fashion in that time is characterised by voluminous clothing worn in an abundance of layers (which historians attribute to the drop in temperatures due to the Little Ice Age)

Silhouette Puffed body outline with slits in the garments, Broad horizontal shape for men and conical shape for women Types of Costumes & Accessories •

Lace, ruffs (wheel-like collar), wide pleated collars

Menswear •

Doublet with hosing/breeches and attached sleeves (Show off legs)

•

Trunk Hose → Pumpkin breeches

•

Madillion: hanging sleeves

•

Codpiece

•

Bombast (puffed look)

Women •

Gown o Includes bodice, sleeves, skirts, and underskirts o The front of the bodice was a V-shaped panel that came to a defined point at or below the waist. Partlet. Neckline was sometimes filled with a chemise stomacher o Sleeves were attached

•

Vertugados → Farthingale

Fabric •

Roughly the same fibre fabrics

•

Thicker fabrics, more sophistication in weaving and construction

83

Early Mannerist: Comparison 1 – Historical

Stiff Upturned Collar Mary I Gown with frontlet and stiff, with turned up collar and undersleeves. 84

Early Mannerist: Comparison 1 – Modern

Stiff Upturned Collar Diesel Spring Summer 2008, Yahoo News Stiff asymmetrical collar on shirt with attached cape-like cloth.

85

Similarities •

Upturned collar that stays stationary.

Differences

•

Uses: Mary was one of the first monarchs to adopt upturned collars, probably as a gesture to indicate her power to the people. In present world context, the upturned collar look indicates defiance and ‘attitude’. In the historical example, the collar was on a gown and is two sided (external and internal fabric different. The contemporary example uses the stiff collar on a white shirt top, and is made of just one type of material.

•

The historical collar is a triangular shaped collar (much like what people know at the Dracula collar), which opens from the front. The contemporary garment has an asymmetrical cut that opens from the right.

•

Making of Garment: Mary’s collar was probably made by using tough and starched materials. The modern stiff collar is made possible by using a tough fabric.

86

Early Mannerist: Comparison 2 – Historical

Puffed Sleeve Gown Henry VIII (1491-1547), Wikipedia Gown with bombasted sleeves over doublet and jerkin. Slasings on the garment. He is seen with lower and upper hose and duck-billed shoes, as well as a halo bonnet.

87

Early Mannerist: Comparison 2 – Modern

Puffed Sleeves Fendi Fall 2006, style.com Model wearing top exaggerated puffed sleeves

88

Similarities •

Both garment outfits use puffed or padded sleeves on the upper torso.

•

Sleeves of the historical gown and the contemporary shirt both end at mid arms.

•

V-shaped upper torso

Differences •

Uses: The powerful and the rich of this period enjoy puffing their gowns will bombast or paddings to create a V-shaped torso, probably to increase the individual’s power presence. On the other hand, the trend for puffed sleeves is periodic in modern times.

•

The modern puff sleeve is less exaggerated than that in mannerist era. The puff effect is achieved by the design of the sleeve, the padding and the use of stiff fabric on the sleeves.

•

This trend could be found on both sexes during the Renaissance period, but nowadays it is only used by females, in general.

89

Later 16th Century – Elizabathan – Jacobean Elizabeth I of England, who ruled from 1558 to 1603 was not only a capable female ruler, she was also a fashion trend-setter and made luxury gowns and ornamentation a preferred style in Europe. She was said to have collected 3000 gowns, 80 wigs, and an abundance of jewelry in her lifetime. Upon crowned the Queen of England, she restored the Protestant faith. It was period whereby literary works flourished, and this period saw the rise of the Bard, William Shakespeare. Spain on the other hand, was exhausted from the effects of the Spanish Inquisition, although great riches came from the New World (Americas). It was during this period that the East India Company was set up. James I of England came to power in 1603, and a great period of exploration and colonization began as the European nations compete to mark their spot on the world map. The Americas start to attract traders/immigrants from Europe.

90

Costume Style and Influence Silhouette Stiff, rigid and deformed silhouettes were preferred, a reflection of the Types of Costumes & Accessories •

Ruffs (open, cartwheel)

•

Jerkin & Doublet

•

Gowns (puffed)

•

Linen skirts

•

Mandillion

•

Breeches (canions, melon hose,Venetians, pluder, galligskin)

•

Status Symbols: fans, gloves and handkerchiefs

Fabric

Spanish Jerkin

Stiffer fabric

Brown silk voided velvet trimmed with metallic bobbin 1580

91

Elizabethan / Jacobean : Comparison 1 – Historical

Young Elizabeth wearing gown with front and undersleeves with a square neckline. Women of this time wear stomachers to give the flat look in front.

92

Elizabethan / Jacobean : Comparison 1 – Modern

Vivienne Westwood Fall 2007, Female Singapore September 2007 Draped dress with a matching corset, puffed and half sewn puff sleeves

93

Similarities •

A constricting panel made of stiff materials to flatten the lower portion of the stomach/waist; both are supposed to give the wearer a better, more upright posture.

•

Both worn on the outside, ending at the stomach with a triangular edge

•

The stomacher in the picture is embroidered, as is the modern corset.

Differences •

Uses: The stomacher was used to constrict the chest and stomach to create a flat look in front, while the corset, in this case, constricts the waist to bring out the body contours of the wearer. In modern times, the modified corset is commonly used by females as an outerwear, usually used for evening wear or casual wear (for parties).

•

The stomacher was encrusted with jeweled borders

•

Making of Garment: The stomacher may be boned, or may cover the triangular front of a corset. If simply decorative, the stomacher lay over the triangular front panel of the stays, and was either stitched or pinned into place, or was held in place by the lacings of the bodice of the gown. The modern corset as shown probably made use of boning as well

•

Colour & Material: Brocade material may be used

•

Silhouette: The stomacher in Elizabethan times makes the torso appear flat at the front, and the cut of the piece creates an inverted triangular shape for the stomach. In contrast, the modern piece enhances the figure, accentuating the female curves.

94

Elizabethan / Jacobean : Comparison 2 – Historical

Drum Farthingale Late 16th Century, unknown woman Gown with a drum farthingale beneath as support, large puffs (bombast) on the sleeves and open ruff.

95

Elizabethan / Jacobean : Comparison 2 – Modern

Puffed Mini-gown Betsey Johnsons Spring Summer 2008 Puffed mini-gown with support under the skirt. Has a small front and underlayer cloth beneath skirt. 96

Similarities •

Both dress and gown feature a puffed lower torso.

•

Both outfits make use of padding or bombast to create the puffed-out look. The hip area is exceptionally huge, while the waists are constrained to create an hourglass figure.

Differences

•

Uses: Farthingale was worn by females in this period. The French and English prefer drum-shaped farthingales while the Spaniards prefer coneshaped ones. In modern times, the mini-gown is not commonly worn, and may be used for special sessions only (costume parties).

•

Making of Garment: The Elizabethan lady in the portrait is wearing a drumshaped farthingale, which is worn underneath the gown to create a cylindrical shape for the lower part of the outfit. The farthingale is probably made of cylindrical whalebone, stiff lining and support structures, to hold the gown up. In comparison, the modern gown is made using padding, multiple layers of fabric, and stiff fabric were used to make the gown in order for the gown to stay in the cup-cake shape.

•

Silhouette: The farthingale creates a long lower body silhouette for the lady in the picture, whereas the short puffed gown creates an exaggerated hip to waist ratio. The farthingale increases the presence of the lady, and makes the wearer’s body contour appear more unnatural as in comparison with the mini gown.

97

Early to Middle 17th Century – Early Baroque France became a great power, expanding its territory on all sides French king Louis XIV (1638–1715), established himself as the most powerful monarch in the region. He formed a huge army, crushed internal resistance, and expanded his territories through conquests. France was transformed into an economic power as it refused to import goods from other countries and the king actively encouraged French industries to become Europe’s biggest producers of luxury goods. England, however, was caught in internal strife. The great conflict was over whether the monarch or people’s Parliament would have the greater power. This period also saw the rise of the Baroque style. The term Baroque usually refers to the style of architecture and decoration in that period. It is characterised by interpenetration of oval spaces, curved surfaces, and elaborate, conspicuous use of decoration, sculpture, and colour.

98

Costume Style and Influence Silhouette The overall trend was toward softness and comfort. Due to the Monarch-Parliament conflict, people started to wear less lavish clothing styles. Such groups were known as Roundheads, who favoured Protestant religions and wanted to give more political power to the people. On the other hand, the Cavaliers were a group that dressed in excess, and was associated with a political position that favored the Catholic religion and a strong king. Puritans, a strict religious sect that held strong ideas about avoiding excess, favored black clothes, simple fasteners, and clean lines.

Types of Costumes & Accessories •

Cassock & Plume hats

•

Baldric o To hold sword

•

Breeches o More fitting

•

Peascock belly

•

Ruffs → Bands → Falling Bands o The starched ruffs and whisks that once encircled the neck were replaced with the softer, more comfortable falling and standing bands.

•

Gown o Women’s sleeves began to rise, showing first the wrist and then the entire forearm

•

Bustles o Padding to all fullness to the back

•

Farthingales & stomachers

•

Boned Jacket

•

Boots with spurs

Fabric Satin, soft velvets, woolens and linens were popular

99

Early Baroque: Comparison 1 – Historical

Laced-edged Falling Band Thomas Howard, 1st Earl of Suffolk, 1605

The earl sports a falling band over doublet

100

Early Baroque: Comparison 1 – Modern

Huge Collars Large collars over outer jacket.

101

Similarities •

Both aspects of the outfit appear to be what we know as collars today.

•

Piece of fabric that surrounds the neck and opens in front.

•

Both white collars are worn over some other garment of contrasting colour.

Differences •

Uses: The laced-edged falling band was a transition from ruffs, and was used on menswear in this period, whereas the contemporary collar is used on shirts on both men and women.

•

Making of Garment: Falling band was made by using a silk-like fabric (or lawn) edged with lace and embroidered with gold or other threads. The modern collar is not separated from the main shirt garment, and in sewn together

•

Colour & Material: the falling band probably was made of silk or cotton material and starched a little, while the modern collar looks to be made of high count stiff cotton fabric.

•

The falling band opens wider in front than the modern collar, and protrudes more as well.

102

Early Baroque: Comparison 2 – Historical

Trunk hose James I of England with cape, doublet, trunk hose and falling band.

103

Early Baroque: Comparison 2 – Modern

Bubble skirt Rronza Schoulder Mini bubble skirt worn with garment, vest and a coat secured by a belt.

104

Similarities •

Both outfits consist of several layers, with a puffy skirt/hose on the lower torso.

•

Layered garments include an inner garment, a jacket-like garment, a cape/overcoat and a belt, giving the wearers a layered, textured silhouette.

•

‘Tucked in’ lower edges

Differences •

Uses: The trunk hose was worn by men during that era, although it was no longer as bombasted

•

Making of Garment: Trunk hose comes with intricate panes, or strips of fabric applied over the soft areas. Resembles the slashings from early periods. The modern mini bubble skirt appears to be made from folding a piece of fabric and sewn at the waist. Irregular folds are made on the skirt

•

Colour & Material: The panes of the trunk hose come with white patterns on a black background and rests over a white underlayer. The skirt is a dull green colour, probably made of cotton blend or manufactured fibre fabric.

•

Silhouette: Outfit gives body shape, as outlined above, although the old version’s cap is sleeveless, and the modern coat has sleeves. The King also wears hosing, but the modern model is bare legged.

105

References Pendergast, S & Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture through the Ages Archimbaud, Nicholas, Lourve http://www.metmuseum.org/ Images Chapter 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture through the Ages Vogue US September 2007 http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/costhistpage.htm W Magazine September 2007 Chapter 2 Fashion, Costume, and Culture through the Ages Vogue US September 2007 http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hi/te_index.asp?i=14 http://www.style.com Chapter 3 http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/costhistpage.htm http://www.thefashionspot.com http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/costhistpage.htm http://www.style.com Chapter 4 Fashion, Costume, and Culture through the Ages http://www.style.com http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/ROMAN.HTML http://www.brasilhandebol.com.br/galeria/imagens/2006/mundialbeach/1811/fNA1H2316.jpg

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Chapter 5 http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/BYZANTIN.HTML Vogue Italia March 1992 http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/barbeurolinks.htm http://news.yahoo.com Chapter 6 http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/COSTUME1_INDEX.HTML Female Magazine September 2007 Wikipedia Vogue US September 2007 Chapter 7 http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/carolingian1.htm http://www.style.com http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/medievalinks.htm Vogue US, April 1998 Chapter 8 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/ http://www.style.com http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/medievalinks.htm http://www.thefashionspot.com Chapter 9 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/index.html http://www.thefashionspot.com http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/index.html http://www.style.com

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Chapter 10 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/ Bella Citta February 2007 http://www.larsdatter.com/foolwear.htm http://www.modaonline.com Chapter 11 http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/tudor/index.html http://news.yahoo.com Wikipedia http://www.style.com Chapter 12 http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/tudor/index.html Female Singapore September 2007 http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hi/te_index.asp http://www.thefashionspot.com Chapter 13 http://www.npg.org.uk/live/index.asp http://www.thefashionspot.com Wikipedia http://www.style.com Others http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/COSTUME1_INDEX.HTML http://www.german-hosiery-museum.de/geschichte/geschichte_02.htm http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/rhuddlan/images/ http://courses.washington.edu/drama416/ http://www.theweebsite.com/garb/index.html

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