Wire Wrapping
LInda Chandler and Christine Ritchey
Reef Knot Bracelet
To o l s an d E q u i pm e nt
Simpler to make than it looks, this bracelet is also called
Flat-nose pliers
a Celtic or lover’s knot. Its simple elegance can be varied
Flush cutters Step-nose pliers Nylon-jaw pliers Chain-nose pliers
by adding beads to the sides or removing the stone
Flat file
from the center.
¼" (6 mm) diameter dowel or stepped
Penknife mandrel 3/8" (1 cm) diameter dowel or stepped mandrel 5/16" (8 mm) diameter dowel or stepped mandrel Ruler Felt-tip marker Masking tape Acetone or Goo-Gone
yo u ’ ll n ee d About 44" (112 cm) of 21-gauge (0.71 mm), square, half-hard, gold-filled wire About 20" (51 cm) of 18-gauge (1.0 mm), half-round, half-hard, gold-filled or sterling silver wire About 2¾" (7 cm) 20-gauge, square, deadsoft, gold-filled wire 6mm faceted stone 6mm gold-filled snap setting Four or more beads approximately 3mm in diameter. Note: the holes in the beads should be big enough to allow the beads to slide onto 21-gauge (0.71 mm) square wire. It may be necessary to experiment with different bead sizes in order to get a proper fit.
Reef Knot Bracelet
To o l s an d E q u i pm e nt
Simpler to make than it looks, this bracelet is also called
Flat-nose pliers
a Celtic or lover’s knot. Its simple elegance can be varied
Flush cutters Step-nose pliers Nylon-jaw pliers Chain-nose pliers
by adding beads to the sides or removing the stone
Flat file
from the center.
¼" (6 mm) diameter dowel or stepped
Penknife mandrel 3/8" (1 cm) diameter dowel or stepped mandrel 5/16" (8 mm) diameter dowel or stepped mandrel Ruler Felt-tip marker Masking tape Acetone or Goo-Gone
yo u ’ ll n ee d About 44" (112 cm) of 21-gauge (0.71 mm), square, half-hard, gold-filled wire About 20" (51 cm) of 18-gauge (1.0 mm), half-round, half-hard, gold-filled or sterling silver wire About 2¾" (7 cm) 20-gauge, square, deadsoft, gold-filled wire 6mm faceted stone 6mm gold-filled snap setting Four or more beads approximately 3mm in diameter. Note: the holes in the beads should be big enough to allow the beads to slide onto 21-gauge (0.71 mm) square wire. It may be necessary to experiment with different bead sizes in order to get a proper fit.
Step 1. Straighten about 36" (91.5 cm) of the 21-gauge (0.71 mm) wire and cut it into four pieces 9" (23 cm) long. Lay the pieces evenly side-by-side and mark the center of the wires with a felt-tip marker (Figure 1). 1
wire center
2
Step 2. Curve two of the wires into a U shape by bending over approximately a 3/8" (1 cm) diameter dowel or step ring mandrel (Figures 2). Curve the two remaining wires over approximately a 5/16" (8 mm) dowel or step ring mandrel. Step 3. Fit the U-shaped wires closely inside each other—smaller diameter U inside larger—so you have two pairs, and secure each pair with tape, as shown in Figure 3. Bend each pair into a slight curve (Figure 4). Make the pairs and curves as identical as possible. Step 4. Slip the two pairs of wire inside each other, forming a loose “knot” (Figure 5). Pull the two pairs of wire, tightening the knot to a moderate degree (Figure 6).
Step 5. Once the knot is tightened, use chain-nose pliers to spread the opening enough to accommodate the snap setting for the 6mm stone, which will be placed in the center (Figure 7). Step 6. Press the snap setting firmly over the back side of the stone (Figure 8). This may require some force before the setting snaps into place.
7
Step 7. To help hold the stone in the setting, use chain-nose pliers to lightly squeeze all the prongs side-by-side, as shown in (Figure 9). Squeeze the prongs on one side, then go to the opposite side and do the same, continuing until all the prongs are snug and even. The idea is to squeeze the prongs just enough to tighten the stone a little.
8
Step 8. Straighten and cut a 7" (8 cm) length of the 21-gauge (0.71 mm) wire. This wire will hold the stone and beads. Slide one end of this wire in the center, underneath the top end of the knot, as shown in (Figure 10). Slide the wire down until it is even with the other wires. You may have to remove the tape to accomplish this, but then re-tape after inserting the wire. 9
3 top view
wire under here side view
Chapter 4: Take It Further
4
5
6
10
Step 1. Straighten about 36" (91.5 cm) of the 21-gauge (0.71 mm) wire and cut it into four pieces 9" (23 cm) long. Lay the pieces evenly side-by-side and mark the center of the wires with a felt-tip marker (Figure 1). 1
wire center
2
Step 2. Curve two of the wires into a U shape by bending over approximately a 3/8" (1 cm) diameter dowel or step ring mandrel (Figures 2). Curve the two remaining wires over approximately a 5/16" (8 mm) dowel or step ring mandrel. Step 3. Fit the U-shaped wires closely inside each other—smaller diameter U inside larger—so you have two pairs, and secure each pair with tape, as shown in Figure 3. Bend each pair into a slight curve (Figure 4). Make the pairs and curves as identical as possible. Step 4. Slip the two pairs of wire inside each other, forming a loose “knot” (Figure 5). Pull the two pairs of wire, tightening the knot to a moderate degree (Figure 6).
Step 5. Once the knot is tightened, use chain-nose pliers to spread the opening enough to accommodate the snap setting for the 6mm stone, which will be placed in the center (Figure 7). Step 6. Press the snap setting firmly over the back side of the stone (Figure 8). This may require some force before the setting snaps into place.
7
Step 7. To help hold the stone in the setting, use chain-nose pliers to lightly squeeze all the prongs side-by-side, as shown in (Figure 9). Squeeze the prongs on one side, then go to the opposite side and do the same, continuing until all the prongs are snug and even. The idea is to squeeze the prongs just enough to tighten the stone a little.
8
Step 8. Straighten and cut a 7" (8 cm) length of the 21-gauge (0.71 mm) wire. This wire will hold the stone and beads. Slide one end of this wire in the center, underneath the top end of the knot, as shown in (Figure 10). Slide the wire down until it is even with the other wires. You may have to remove the tape to accomplish this, but then re-tape after inserting the wire. 9
3 top view
wire under here side view
Chapter 4: Take It Further
4
5
6
10
The Projects Basic Bracelet Dress-Up Bracelet Bowtie Bracelet Celtic Knot Bracelet Walk-Along Bracelet Wire Wrapped Ring Pretty Bracelet Reef Knot Bracelet
patterned wire bracelet, earrings and pendant
variation of stone pendant
Stone Pendant Patterned Wire Bracelet, Earrings, and Pendant
pretty bracelet and variations basic bracelet
stone pendant
bowtie bracelet
dress-up bracelet
celtic knot bracelet
wire wrapped ring
The Projects Basic Bracelet Dress-Up Bracelet Bowtie Bracelet Celtic Knot Bracelet Walk-Along Bracelet Wire Wrapped Ring Pretty Bracelet Reef Knot Bracelet
patterned wire bracelet, earrings and pendant
variation of stone pendant
Stone Pendant Patterned Wire Bracelet, Earrings, and Pendant
pretty bracelet and variations basic bracelet
stone pendant
bowtie bracelet
dress-up bracelet
celtic knot bracelet
wire wrapped ring
Wire wrapping made easy! Wire is a favorite design material for jewelry artists, a versatile element that allows for the creation of simple loops and embellishments to more involved, intricate pieces. In Jewelry Studio: Wire Wrapping, Linda Chandler and Christine Ritchey—the best-selling authors of Woven Wire Jewelry and Getting Started Making Wire Jewelry and More—take the mystery out of wire wrapping and share their insider secrets for making gorgeous jewelry from bundles of joined wire, no soldering required! This technique allows the jewelry maker to create timeless, elegant pieces that are beautifully simple to elaborately complex. Inside readers will find: • A thorough discussion of safety procedures • A description of tools and materials • Helpful tips, tricks, and techniques • All the basic wire-wrapping essentials Detailed process photography shows all the basics of wire wrapping step by step then takes the reader through progressive skill building projects to teach a range of wrapping techniques. Projects include bracelets, earrings, pins, and the highly sought-after wire-wrapped cabochon. Before you know it you’ll be creating an elegant bowtie bracelet, a celtic link bracelet with matching earrings, a wire wrapped ring, and more!
Linda Chandler is a jewelry designer and teacher with more than twenty years’ experience. She is also a Precious Metal Clay certified teacher. Linda lives in Indianapolis, Indiana. Christine Ritchey is an independent writer/editor, potter, and jewelry maker. She lives in north Texas. They are the authors of Woven Wire Jewelry and Getting Started Making Wire Jewelry and More (both from Interweave Press).
Paperbound, 8½ x 9, 128 pages 400 photographs ISBN 978-1-59668-059-3 $22.95 April 2008
Interweave Press LLC is distributed to the book trade in the U.S. and Canada by Independent Publishers Group, in the UK and Europe by Search Press, in New Zealand by David Bateman, Ltd, and in Australia by Keith Ainsworth Pty, Ltd. Interweave Press LLC is also the publisher of 14 craft magazines including Beadwork, Step by Step Beads, Step by Step Wire Jewelry, Jewelry Artist, and Stringing.