Wavelength Kayaking Magazine: Fall 2008

WaveLength Your complete kayaking resource

MAGAZINE

8 Oceans Chronicles of Jon Bowermaster's kayak journeys across the globe

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Water trails: Paddling Florida's Great Calusa Blueway

Plus: Skills • New gear Day trips • Conservation Ecology • Health and nutrition

Volume 18, Issue 4

Fall 2008 Free at select outlets or by subscription

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OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

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The First Word

by John Kimantas

WaveLength Wavelength enters a third era MAGAZINE

Fall 2008

Volume 18, Number 4 PM No. 41687515

Editor – John Kimantas [email protected] Copy Editing – Darrell Bellaart Advertising sales – Frank Croft [email protected] Vere Shute [email protected] Writing not otherwise credited is by WL staff. Cover Photo: Barry Tessman, permission courtesy Jon Bowermaster SAFE PADDLING is an individual responsibility. We recommend that inexperienced paddlers seek expert instruction and advice about local conditions, have all the required gear and know how to use it. The publishers of this magazine and its contributors are not responsible for how the information in these pages is used by others. WAVELENGTH is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops, outdoor stores, fitness clubs, marinas, events, etc.), and globally on the web. Also available by subscription. Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome. Download back issues and articles online at www.wavelengthmagazine.com

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Wild Coast Publishing 2101 Cinnabar Drive Nanaimo, B.C., Canada, V9X 1B3 Ph: 1-866-984-6437 • Fax: 1-866-654-1937 Email: [email protected] Website: www.wavelengthmagazine.com

As I write this, all I have to show for being the new Wavelength editor is this one sentence. And it couldn't feel more like home. About ten years ago or so I was a fledgling paddler on a press tour of Discovery Island courtesy the now-defunct Oak Bay Beach Hotel. Alan Wilson, then-owner of Wavelength Magazine, happened to be along for the ride as well. While being boated in comfort in a yacht on a particularly windy day across Plumper Passage, I remember chatt ing with Alan briefly about the amazingly light carbon fibre paddle he had along for the trip. I seem to recall telling him about how I was planning on buying my fi rst kayak in the next few weeks. Who would have thought, a decade later, here I'd be, inheriting Alan's legacy. And what an incredible decade it has been, all thanks to kayaking. Wavelength couldn't be a better place to end up. My fi rst stroke of luck was being transferred to Vancouver Island in 1993. I found myself in the midst of this outdoor recreation heaven, so naturally hiking, then kayaking, became my passion. In 2003 I took a chance by taking the summer off work to paddle the outer coast of Vancouver Island. Eighty-six days of paddling and a lot of research and writing later, I had a publisher for The Wild Coast, a guidebook for the west coast of Vancouver Island. Whitecap Books quickly asked if I'd like to explore the coast some more for some follow-up volumes. Who could refuse? So in subsequent years volumes 2 and 3 of The Wild Coast series were born. Then a series of coastal atlases. With one more professional dream left to fulfi ll, a bit earlier this year I launched my own creation, Wild Coast Magazine (you can read it at www.wildcoastmagazine.com; astute readers may notice some Wild Coast traits creeping into Wavelength, for which I offer no apologies. I think the two magazines create a great family). Around the time the fi rst Wild Coast Magazine came out I began an email exchange with Ron and Diana Mumford, the next owners of Wavelength Magazine after Alan retired. A few more emails and a cup of coffee later we had a deal, and so here I am. Knowing what I know now about magazines, I must thank Alan, Ron and Diana for all the hard work in gett ing Wavelength where it is today. So it's with a bit of trepidation and a lot of excitement I'm putt ing my own thumbprint on Wavelength. First is the change of agenda for this issue, from warm-weather paddling to general interest. (Sorry, I had too many other stories to tell this issue. Watch for those articles soon.) Some new things to watch for: more adventures; regular articles on ecology and conservation (two subjects close to my heart); a new Day Trip feature taking a practical approach on where to paddle (to eventually create a tapestry of trips across the continent); a look at amazing people (starting with Jon Bowermaster); a Health and Nutrition column (welcome Bruce!), and a new feature called Options, which looks one step beyond the regular kayaking milieu to outriggers, sails, whitewater, pedals or wherever else inventive minds take self-propelled watersports. Of course, the many talented regular contributors to the magazine will remain Wavelength's backbone. Watch for something for just about any interest – from new gear to kayak fishing. So welcome to the latest incarnation of Wavelength Magazine. I have a feeling it's going to be my best kayaking trip yet. - John Kimantas

© 2008. Copyright is retained on all material (text, photos and graphics) in this magazine. No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form, print or electronic, for any purpose, except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing. Printed on recycled ancient rainforest-free paper. Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2008, courtesy of the Atlas of Canada. Also, our thanks to Geobase for some elements that may appear on Wavelength maps.

Playing in Sansum Narrows, Saltspring Island, with my partner Leanne Chetcuti and paddler Carey Lockwood. 4

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Contents

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The eyes, ears and paddles of Cannery Row Conservation

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REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

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by Meade Fischer

Cover feature: 8 Oceans

Dan Armitage is a boating, fishing and travel writer based in the Midwest. He is a licensed (USCG Master) captain, hosts a syndicated radio show, and presents kayak fishing and photography seminars at boat shows.

The journeys of Jon Bowermaster by John Kimantas

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Great Calusa Water Trails by Dan Armitage

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A moment with manatees

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Reflections

Adam Bolonsky is a kayak fishing guide and fitness expert, based near Gloucester, Massachusetts.

by Matthew Crane

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Rigged out: outrigger canoes

You can read Adam’s lively blog at paddlingtravelers.blogspot.com

Options by Sheila Porteous

Paddling Salt Lake City-style New Gear

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by John Kimantas

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Dan Lewis operates Rainforest Kayak Adventures in Tofino with Bonny Glambeck. 250-984-2307 www.rainforestkayak.com

© Mark Hobson photo

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Paddle Meals Go green with two fun salsas by Hilary Masson

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Hilary Masson, our Paddle Meals contributor, is a guide and part owner of Baja Kayak Adventure Tours Ltd. www.bajakayakadventures.com

A touch of Arizona in Nfld. Day Trip #1: the East Coast by Keith and Heather Nicol

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Bliss near Seattle Day Trip #2: Pacific Northwest

Alex Matthews writes our paddling skills columns. He has authored and co-authored several kayaking skills books and has been involved in the design and development of kayaks. [email protected]

by Lisa A. Johnson

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Launch from Nanaimo, turn left Day Trip #3: British Columbia by John Kimantas

Columns and regular features:

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Letters News Fishing Angles

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Navigation

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Wildlife Appreciating the birds

Ecology A kayaker's ode to the coconut

A fish in the hand – and how to let go The ABCs of reading charts

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Skillset

Bryan Nichols is a marine biologist and science writer from Vancouver Island who is currently working on a PhD and a tan in Tampa. He’d probably get done quicker if he wasn’t trying to kayak around all of Florida’s Gulf Coast barrier islands.

The sweep roll

Health and Nutrition Food as medicine

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Neil Schulman’s writing and photography have appeared in numerous magazines and publications. He also does environmental work in Portland, Oregon.

© Wade Norton photo

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Books Dreaming in Nuchatlitz, Fatal Tide and more OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

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Feedback

Kayak fishing: I caught one! Now what? To the editor, In reviewing the article Trolling for Salmon? (Wavelength Summer 2007), Adam Bolonsky made some good points but excluded one of the most important considerations when fishing from a kayak, that being where to put the fish once you have caught it. Over the years of fishing cod and salmon I have experimented with various approaches to handling the catch while on the water. These techniques varied from draping the fish across my deck under the bungee, to simply dropping them into the cockpit. The fi rst method resulted in an unstable paddling condition, as the catch dragged in the water significantly, slowing the kayak. The second method resulted in a slimy mess that required a thorough cleaning after each time out and left my kayak smelling way too fishy for comfortable wilderness camping. After a few trips I discovered that the most efficient system is to gaff the fish as opposed to nett ing it. "Bonk" it into submission at the side of the boat and then simply drop it into

Letters to the editor are always welcome. Please send them to 2101 Cinnabar Drive, Nanaimo, BC, Canada or email to [email protected].

a dedicated dry bag between my legs in the cockpit. I prefer a tough 20-litre Baja bag for this purpose. Th is method leaves the cockpit (and you) clean and only requires a quick wash of the bag once back at shore. Here are a couple of additional tips. Always drop your catch in head fi rst to avoid snagging sharp fi ns, and keep your skinny shanks clear of the bag in the event that an unruly half-dead rock cod should seek revenge with its dorsal fi n! Kelp beds and wind drift cost you in lures, but fish and chips around a campfi re? Priceless! Peter Brunning Vancouver, BC

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Carry on, backwards To the editor, I was looking at some of the articles in the Wavelength Magazine and noticed Alex Matt hews' article Getting Started – The Solo Kayak Carry in the Winter 2007 edition and felt compelled to make a comment. He writes about carrying the kayak so that the bow is facing the direction the carrier is going. Then he writes "Be particularly mindful of the stern of the boat, which is hard to see over your shoulder." I've been a paddler for over 30 years and it didn't take me long to figure out that the balance point of the boat doesn't change whether the bow or the stern is to the front. Since the rudder is the most sensitive piece of kit that I have on the boat, I want to see where I am guiding it so when I carry my kayak, I carry it with the stern in front. Food for thought. W.L. Bruce

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OCT0BER-DECEMBER 2008

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Doug ( CVK’s senior instructor ) and Jonathon ( CVK’s friend ) pictured 10 feet from successfully completing their circumnavigation of Vancouver Island in their Nigel Dennis Explorers. (May 5th to July 6th, 2008) Congradulations on this amazing accomplishment!And congradulations to Anne and Penny (the significant others) for enduring all they did while providing technical support for the voyage. Read about it here: http://vancouverislandcircumnavigation.blogspot.com/

News

Work inches forward on B.C. marine trail Imagine a network of landing and camping havens along the coastline of British Columbia within paddling distance of each other. That's the goal of the new B.C. Marine Trails Network Task Force, a group with its eyes on 12,500 nautical miles of shore and the loft y dream of creating the world's longest water trail. An alliance of representatives of kayaking clubs from across B.C., in partnership with the Ministry of Tourism, Culture and the Arts, is working to develop this vision under the banner of the B.C. Marine Trails Network Task Force. A significant advantage in B.C. is that 90 per cent of the land is owned by the government. Sites on private land where necessary will be included by agreements between owners, communities and the government. Work towards a marine trail in B.C. originally started in the early 1990s but stalled due to lack of public awareness, and ultimately cutbacks within government. In fall 2007 the fi rst coastal treaty between the B.C. Government and the Maa-Nulth First Nations

2008

PADDLER’S PICK

was ratified, raising the question of how this could affect access for kayaking. It also raised the spectre that access to public land taken for granted could be lost due to private land ownership and various types of commercial ventures – if steps aren't taken to preserve access. The fi rst meeting of clubs examining this issue took place in December 2007 in Vancouver. Shortly after the meeting, representatives of most of the largest kayaking clubs on the Lower Mainland of B.C. and Vancouver Island, plus a representative from Outdoor Recreation Council, formed the B.C. Marine Trails Task Force. Th is affi liation represents the interests of roughly 1,500 kayakers and canoeists. The group's mandate is to work cooperatively with government to develop a series of sites linking the coastline of B.C. to create a group of interconnected routes. An informational website will eventually be developed as part of the trail progress. Key to the development is the cooperation

of First Nations, most of which still have unresolved land claim disputes on the coast. The Marine Trails Task Force has worked with the B.C. government to develop an informational package to promote the trails network to First Nations and coastal communities along the route, as well as other stakeholders. Each club has taken on responsibility for a section of coastline, with tasks involving identifying primary routes, some secondary routes and developing a campsite inventory. A section of the West Coast of Vancouver Island, from Tofi no to Port Hardy, dubbed the West Coast Marine Trail, has already been proposed and presented to the province. It will be proceeding through various channels in order to get the necessary sites designated as B.C. Marine trails sites. While the task force eyes greater local and international support, political hurdles remain, particularly a changing political climate and no formal announcement of government buy-in, keeping the future of the trail in limbo.

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News

Island speed record eyed British kayaker Sean Morley has a new goal in sight: a speed record for circumnavigating Vancouver Island. Morley, the current world masters surf kayak champion in the high performance category, made history in 2004 by completing the fi rst solo circumnavigation of the United Kingdom, Ireland and all their inhabited islands in a six-month, 4,500-mile (7,200-km) expedition – the longest undertaken by a kayaker in British waters. The current record for rounding Vancouver Island stands at 23 days 10 hours for a single kayak by Joe O’Blenis in 2007, a trip sponsored by Wavelength Magazine parent company Wild Coast Publishing and sister publication Wild Coast Magazine. The record for a circumnavigation in a double kayak was set earlier that year at 19 and a half days by Kieron Tastagh and Jeff Norville. Morley's aim is to complete the 700-mile (1,100 km) journey in 18 days. He will be leaving immediately after the West Coast Sea Kayak Symposium on Sept. 22, with his

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itinerary calling for a launch from Port Hardy to await good weather crossing notorious Cape Scott , then a counter-clockwise route to come into the cover of the Inside Passage on the east side of Vancouver Island before the change-ofseason storms arrive in early October. “Vancouver Island can present some of the most challenging conditions a kayaker can face including fierce winds and huge waves off the notorious headlands of Cape Scott and the Brooks Peninsula, high surf and treacherous reefs guarding the remote beaches of the west coast and raging tidal rapids reaching speeds of 15 knots in the myriad of channels separating the Vancouver Island from the mainland,” Morley said in a press release from trip sponsor Kokatat. Now based out of California, Morley runs River and Ocean LLC, a sales and customer service agency in the paddlesports industry, and is the western region sales representative for Kokatat. You can follow his progress by following the links on the expedition website

OCT0BER-DECEMBER 2008

www.expeditionkayak.com and his blog htt p://riverandocean.blogspot.com/.

Right whales, wrong speeds Commercial ships along the Atlantic coast may have to go slow to avoid collisions with the endangered right whale. The federal government is recommending a five-year, 10-knot speed limit for commercial ships within 23 miles of major mid-Atlantic ports, where collisions have been common. Only about 300 of the whales remain, with their territory extending from their breeding grounds in the southeastern Atlantic to their feeding areas off the Massachusetts coast. Busy shipping lanes cross their migration route.

News

Hope floats higher at Kayak for a Cure Kayaks have been mixing paddling with charity in Vancouver for the past three years, with Kayak for a Cure successfully raising money for research initiatives at the Canadian Cancer Society. Kayak for a Cure III proved to be another year of laughs, love and a great day of paddling on the waters of English Bay as 60 kayakers made the trek across the bay. Th is year was special for executive director and founder Mark Starkey. “2008 was a record year for us,” he said. “We certainly aren’t raising millions of dollars yet, but our events have continued to gain momentum and popularity and we were able to raise $50,000 this year as an organization.” In its third year, Kayak for a Cure also held an event in Victoria, B.C. and Columbus, Ohio. “We’re thrilled to have seen successful growth in two additional venues this year and are so lucky to have leadership in each city within our staff . That’s what makes this special – we have a fantastic team involved in running and organizing Kayak for a Cure events through North America.”

A young participant in Kayak for a Cure gives the event an enthusiastic thumbs up.

To learn more about Kayak for a Cure events in Vancouver and around North America, visit www.hopefloats.ca or contact Mark Starkey at [email protected].

Tanker traffic in strait opposed A plan in the works to build a tanker port on B.C.’s Inside Passage doesn’t have the blessing of the Canadian public. The plan would see a natural gas facility built on the north end of Texada Island, fueled by as many as one tanker very five days traveling the Strait of Georgia to the facility. A poll released by a coalition of

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environmental groups, including the Georgia Strait Alliance, found seven in ten British Columbians support a ban on oil tankers in British Columbia’s inside coastal waters. Environmental groups are seeking federal legislation banning oil tankers along the waters of the newly created Great Bear Rainforest Conservation Area. The poll’s release coincides with a renewed push from pipeline giants to open up B.C.’s inside coastal waters to tanker traffic. Enbridge and Kinder Morgan, two of the industry’s largest players, have recently revived proposals to bring oil to the B.C. Coast from the tar sands by pipeline and then ship it to Asian markets by supertankers. If all the proposed projects go ahead, more than 300 tankers would travel through coastal waters each year, Georgia Strait Alliance says. Support for a ban climbs to nearly eight in ten for people who live on Vancouver Island and the coast. More coastal news can be found online at www.wavelengthmagazine.com.

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OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

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Conservation

by Meade Fischer

The eyes, ears and paddles of

Cannery Row and Elkhorn Slough

R. Busman photo

Dani Lori on patrol with Team OCEAN.

Pelicans and cormorants at Cannery Row.

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Lauren Hanneman knows exactly why she became part of Team OCEAN. “Being surrounded by seal pups, barking sea lions, endangered otters and countless birds – isn’t that every conservationist’s dream? And to get paid to talk to people about the things I love so much,” she says. “Or perhaps hanging out at seal bend and being surrounded by plunge-diving pelicans and terns during a feeding frenzy. I am a wetlands enthusiast; I cannot imagine anywhere else I would want to be, except for other wetland systems.”

Monterey Bay Marine Sanctuary

I

’D BEEN paddling the incredibly rich and diverse waters of Monterey Bay for several years, sharing information, helping people and picking up floating trash, so when I saw a notice in the paper in spring, 2001, it caught my attention. With the rapid growth in popularity of kayaking in the area, the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary was starting a pilot program and looking for people to staff it. They wanted kayakers who had some background or interest in environmental protection. The plan was to patrol the most popular stretches of water and serve as liaisons between the sanctuary and the visiting public. It seemed the perfect summer job. I applied and was accepted. When three of us showed up for the fi rst of several weeks of training, Team OCEAN was born. One day a week for eight weeks we learned all about the sanctuary, its history and more importantly, its flora and fauna and how to protect them. We learned the ecological relationship between the kelp beds and the rich life off the Monterey coast and the incredible variety of sea birds, invertebrates and fish found along our shores. But most of all we focused on the threatened and endangered marine mammals that live in the area. One of the sanctuary’s concerns was that since our seals, sea lions and otters (especially the otters) were cute, the tourists were loving them to death, chasing them about in attempts to get up-close photos. By the time the season started, the one woman in our group had to drop out, leaving Jeffery and meto patrol Elkhorn Slough and Monterey’s Cannery Row four days a week. Jeffery drove down from San Francisco each day, so was clearly in it for more than the small pay. We had different styles. He seemed to consider himself more a park ranger, while I saw myself as a docent, a twist on the “good cop, bad cop” game. Six hours a day, four days a week was an exhausting schedule for two, but the joy of being out on the water, with the fog, wind and sun along with the wonderful sights and sounds we encountered daily, made it worthwhile. At the fall debriefi ng we offered our suggestions for the future. I suggested a volunteer program to augment the paid staff . After a summer off I returned as a volunteer

Ron Eby has been leading Team OCEAN since 2006.

in 2003. Team OCEAN was thriving, with four paid staff and two dozen volunteers. It has continued to grow since then, and there are now six staff members. The fi rst new staff member in 2002 was Lori Beraha, now starting her sixth year. She also works on a whale watching boat in addition to other jobs. She is a world traveler and sailor who has crewed on boats to places I can’t even fi nd on a map. Lori decided to join Team OCEAN during a career workshop that involved brainstorming the perfect job. “I imagined a ranger-like position, combing and monitoring the beaches and helping injured wildlife. When I saw the job ad I couldn’t believe it. Kayaking was even better.”

Before Lori signed on, we’d experimented with paddling Santa Cruz that fi rst season. It didn’t seem worth the manpower, so we established the current pattern of patrols along Monterey’s Cannery Row and Elkhorn Slough, a five-mile-long estuary at the center of Monterey Bay. These are the most accessible and popular of Monterey Bay’s many great paddling spots. Both locations are rich in wildlife. Cannery Row has massive kelp beds that are home for snails, octopi, anemones, schools of small fish and the sea urchins that are a favored food for endangered otters. The Monterey Harbor jett y is usually a mass of California sea lions, and each rock along the shore hosts a napping harbor seal. The air and rocks are fi lled with

Sea lions near the Monterey Harbor jetty.

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Conservation

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To Santa Cruz Kirby Park



Moss Landing Wildlife Area Seal Bend Otters, sea lions

Otters

Elkhorn Slough Dolan

Rd.

Elkhorn Rd.

gulls, pelicans and cormorants. Occasionally migrating whales appear beyond the kelp beds, and orcas patrol just a couple of miles offshore. The slough also has an otter population, much of which congregates near the launch ramp at the harbor. I’ve seen up to 75 huddled together. Farther up the slough there is a haul-out beach for seals. While brown pelicans and gulls dominate the slough, it’s also home to egrets, herons, avocets, willets, sandpipers, terns, grebes, plovers and dozens of other coastal birds. At times we see white pelicans, a rare visitor in our area. These fascinating birds don’t dive for food like their brown cousins. They encircle a school of fish, creating a captive pool of food. Elkhorn Slough is a favorite of our staff . Lauren Hanneman is passionate about saving the slough, which acts as a nursery for young fish. “It loses more of it precious mudflats and pickleweed habitat due to erosion from tidal flow,” she says. “The migratory birds come here because California has lost over 98 per cent of its coastal wetlands. We all need these resources, no matter what our reasons are.”

To Cannery Row Moss Landing Elkhorn Slough National Estuarine To Monterey Research Reserve

Lauren is a veteran of five seasons with Team OCEAN, although she is still under 30. Her college degree more closely fits the job than anyone else, and she is still searching for that perfect career that combines what she loves about this program with a career. She is a natural when it comes to engaging and educating people about environmental issues, and that, plus the marine environment, motivated her to join. Staff member Ron Eby took over the lead job in 2006. His new duties include scheduling staff and dozens of volunteers. Ron is retired

OCT0BER-DECEMBER 2008

from the navy, and is a man of unbounded energy, often biking to the launch site before starting his six hours on the water. “I love the water, especially the slough, love to kayak and wanted to learn more about what I was seeing, and to share my enjoyment of our wonderful sanctuary with others. I am absolutely amazed at how fulfi lling my time with Team OCEAN is,” he says. There is also the camaraderie with fellow members and interacting with sanctuary guests, “many of whom have become friends and paddling buddies, and some who have become members of Team OCEAN,” Ray says. Robert Scoles, a retired police officer, is in his third season. He remembers one particular Saturday on the slough. “The gulls were agitated at Pelican Berm and Seal Bend because there was a fledgling gull about a third of the way across the channel. Apparently it had entered the water and was then washed away by the incoming tide. The parents found it and started making it swim back. The gulls flanked the chick and each time it tried to stop or change direction, the adults would peck it. Once they got it back

Monterey Bay Marine Sanctuary on the berm, all the gulls quieted down.” We all have favorite moments on the water. One of mine, from the fi rst season, was being out on Elkhorn Slough at the end of summer, with not a tourist in sight, but a sky fi lled with hundreds of pelicans, diving all around us in a feeding frenzy. Of course, there’s the people as well. “Perhaps the most gratifying and memorable aspect of this program is the wonderful people and volunteers I have had the privilege of meeting and paddling with over the last five years,” Lauren says. “I have had job offers, met members of Congress and some of the most fascinating people.” Ron feels he learns something new each time he paddles. “Sometimes from other team members, sometimes from people on the water, sometimes from things I discover, and also from the staff of the kayak shops who paddle for a living. I see the sparkle in the eyes of guests as I interpret the sanctuary for them and share my fascination with what we are so blessed with.”

litt le time for much else, and gett ing too close disrupts their survival schedules. The current group of staff and volunteers patrol both areas Friday through Sunday from early summer to early fall. All have returned for this season. “I think we actually do make a difference,” Lori says. “And I can feel it every time I go out, even if some things work against us.” Meade Fischer is a part-time educator, writer, radio commentator, artist and environmental activist. He lives near Monterey Bay and can be reached at [email protected].

“We know our stuff”

T

HERE ARE some downsides. For Lori it is having to reprimand the public. I recall, during the fi rst season, fi nding a trail of oil at Cannery Row from some local spill, probably a small fishing boat, but being unable to track the source. For Ron it's seeing wildlife being disturbed. “While any one transgression may not seem to have a lasting impact on its own, repeated disturbances by tens of thousands of guests in the sanctuary can have a lasting effect.” Robert has had some people become a litt le belligerent. “They think we are the kayak police. By far I create my own negative experiences when, after talking to someone, I realize it is not within my abilities to make them experience what I am experiencing.” Lauren unfortunately sees the same negative issues year after year. People still disturb wildlife in critical areas, the various interest groups such as environmentalists, duck hunters and fishermen still can’t resolve their differences, and most frustrating for her, needed signs are not being replaced. Cannery Row and the slough have kayak outfitters, creating crowded conditions on summer weekends. One of the favorite tourist att ractions is the otter, and their playful antics make visitors want to get closer. Team OCEAN members spend more time protecting otters than any other animal. We remind people that while these creatures appear carefree, they divide their time between feeding, grooming and sleeping, leaving

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Cover Feature

8

by John Kimantas

oceans

A look at one writer's journeys by paddle to the far corners of the world

Y

OU CAN’T PLAN on good weather visiting Antarctica, but somehow Jon Bowermaster got a lucky break. Arriving at the peak of summer, the National Geographic writer and explorer and his team found themselves in the midst of two and a half weeks of perfect blue skies and temperatures upwards of a balmy (by Antarctic standards) 40 degrees Fahrenheit – conditions that made the ocean and glaciers a wonderland of blue and white hues. But the Antarctic can be a tricky place, and in time the blue skies turned to an unlikely week of torrential rain. Widely considered the driest desert on the planet, the Antarctic rain bogged down Bowermaster’s crew with slush, winds and ice-encrusted kayaks – in an area

that isn't supposed to see rain. Could this be yet another signal of global warming? Bowermaster's concerns were fortified by a visit to the Ukrainian Antarctic science base Academik Vernadsky on Galindez Island. Fift y years of weather data showed an undeniable warming trend. While melting ice is one concern – the winter ice can extend 7.2 million square miles, or about twice the size of the United States – rain is a new one. Bowermaster watched the results take their toll on penguins, which have never had to deal with this phenomenon before. “The chicks get soaked with rain and the parents can’t dry them off, so at night they freeze,” Bowermaster said. “So it’s not just Continued on page 19.

Fiona Stewart photo

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OCTOBER-DECEMBER OCT0BER-DECEMBER 2008

Jon Bowermaster

8. For five weeks in 2008 Bowermaster and his team explored the Antarctic Peninsula by sea kayak and sail – including rough crossings of Drake Passage, beautiful days of blue sky as well as storms and torrential rains. The goal was a look at how the peninsula is evolving thanks to warming temperatures and increasing numbers of tourists. (The numbers match the order in which the trips were taken. )

Barry Tessman photo

Peter McBride photo

1.

4.

The search for water in one of the driest places on earth in South America meant days of pulling kayaks rather than paddling, including across southern Bolivia's Salar de Uyuni, the world's largest salt lake, once the ocean floor and later an inland lake.

In June and July 1999 Bowermaster was part of a threeweek long journey halfway between Russia and Alaska on the Aleutians to a an area of active volcanoes the Aleuts called 'the birthplace of the winds.' Two 21-foot kayaks carried everything the four needed for five weeks.

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

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Warm-water Cover Featurepaddling

7.

Bowermaster rates this one of the most stunning views he's had from a kayak – Cape Pillar, a rock stack that soars 1,000 feet from the sea at the Tasman Peninsula.

Gabi Mocatta photo

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OCTOBER-DECEMBER OCT0BER-DECEMBER 2008 2008

Everglades Jon National Bowermaster Park

6.

The Croatian journey of 2005 started in the Zrmanja River, which leads to the Adriatic in a trip that required running rapids and this 40-foot horseshoe waterfall.

Peter McBride photo

about ice. It’s about wildlife.” The Antarctic trip was Bowermaster’s last in the Oceans 8 series of kayaking expeditions that fi rst began in 1999 with a trip to the Aleutian Islands. The goal was to travel each of the seven continents, plus Oceania, over the next decade by kayak. Supported by the National Geographic Expeditions Council, Bowermaster and his group of adventurers began with a five-week journey to where the Pacific Ocean joins the Bering Sea, a place the Aleuts called the “birthplace of the winds.” The name was a hint of just one of the many hazards they would encounter, made tougher by the need for crossings as long as 17 miles. Strong winds, cold water and more than the occasional storm slowed their goal of reaching the remote chain of five volcanic mountain islands. The highest, 6,000-foot-high Mount Cleveland, was tamed during a 15-hour ascent, where the most dangerous element became not the strong winds and snow but the poisonous gases blowing off the crater of the still-active volcano. (Ironically, Mount Cleveland erupted just a few days after my interview with Bowermaster in July. “As beautiful as those islands and beaches are, you would not want to be camped on them when Cleveland sends ash three to five miles into the sky,” he wrote back after I emailed him about the news.)

N

OT ALL TRIPS Bowermaster took were quite as cold as the Aleutians. Politics were a major hurdle in heading to Vietnam, where kayaks were not allowed until a “fi lming permit” was paid. The goal was to paddle the coast from near Mong Cai on the Chinese border 800 miles south to Hoi An, south of Danang. It was a chance to see the country post-war in a way few will ever get to see it. Ocean conditions were the last concern on the trip through Bolivia,

Argentina and Peru, where Bowermaster and his crew were forced to pull kayaks across the bone-dry Salar de Uyuni, a 40-by-120 mile salt lake – the world’s largest. The goal was South America’s Altiplano, the mountainous desert region crossing the borders of all three countries. Pulling kayaks for much of the six weeks the group went in search of water in mostly dry lake beds as old as 2 million years. Once covered by ocean and more recently as large lakes as litt le as12,000 years ago, they remain a treasure trove of corals and fossils left behind by the ancient sea life. Hauling the kayaks across the salt beds became a symbol of the change in conditions in a land where rich lakes once resided. Remarkably, people have lived here for 10,000 years. Inspired to fi nd out how they have survived in such an arid climate, Bowermaster’s visit ended atop the tallest volcano in the region: Bolivia’s Licanbur, a peak that at 19,600 feet looks out over the Altiplano and Lago Verde.

A NEW HAZARD for the kayakers in the exploration of Loango,

the new national park in Gabon, West Africa, was large land mammals. The 200-mile journey in 2004 around the park’s ocean shoreline was met by river-swimming elephants, manatees, surfi ng hippos and gorillas. It was a chance for National Geographic Society member Mike Fay to fi nish his explorations of the Congo, many areas of which can only be explored by water. Earlier Fay had done an extensive land-based exploration – a 2,000-mile, two-and-a-half year walk through the dense jungles of the Congo. His efforts helped create 13 new national parks in Gabon. Hottest of all the trips, though, proved to be Croatia’s Dalmation coast in summer 2005. Travel was possible only in the early morning and late evening as the crew paddled through the 1,246 islands off Croatia that

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

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Cover Feature

5.

Paddling upriver through Loango National Park in Gabon meant improvising campsites, in this case setting up tents over the kayaks in a flooded forest. The result was surprisingly comfortable – except for photographer Peter McBride, who had his kayak flood during the night.

dot the Adriatic Sea. The goal was to kayak the country’s length along the Adriatic. Joined by photographer Peter McBride and videographer Alex Nicks, the group kayaked 400 miles, from Zadar to Dubrovnik, staying among the sun-drenched archipelagos. Of all the locations he’s traveled, Bowermaster considers Croatia's coast the most accessible as a kayaking holiday resort. But he has a personal soft spot for Oceania. The destination in 2002 was the Tuamotus, a group of about 78 coral reef atolls set in a string about 930 miles north-northeast of Tahiti. The Polynesian name means ‘Distant Islands,’ an apt description of what Bowermaster considers “tiny green oases floating in the desert of the sea.” “I’ve returned several times since, so it must have a special att raction for me,” Bowermaster said. The eight trips were not just adventures for their own sake. For Bowermaster they were a chance to document the relationship between humans and the sea, and the changes occurring as the coastal human population grows and the climate warms. In Polynesia, the problem 20

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

is a rising ocean and increased storms that threaten the atolls’ future. Elsewhere Bowermaster sees two recurring themes: climate change bringing increased storms and the worldwide plague of plastic pollution. Add overfishing, and Bowermaster believes the lives shared by coastal people from Chile to Croatia to Vietnam are not that different after all. With the Oceans 8 series complete, Bowermaster is continuing to turn his attention to the changing and tenuous relationship of humans and the sea with a new series of trips that has already taken him to the Galapagos Islands and will likely take him to Greenland, Mexico and other locations around the world at later dates. But after dragging and transporting kayaks across deserts in South America’s Altiplano and through political barriers, Bowermaster said in future they’ll likely buy or rent kayaks at the locations rather than bring them along. His fi rst National Geographic assignment took place 20 years ago, an adventure covering a dogsled expedition across fi rst Greenland and then

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

Continued on page 22.

Jon Bowermaster

3.

The Tuamoto atolls rarely rise more than a few feet above sea level thanks to a low rim or coral. The remains of eroded volcanos, Bowermaster considers the Polynesian islands a paradise.

Peter McBride photo

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

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21

Cover Feature

2.

One-third of Vietnam's 80-million people live near the ocean, so getting around meant improvising in the population centres. In Hoi An, hiring cyclos was the solution in getting to the water's edge. Right: Jon Bowermaster.

Antarctica. Now Bowermaster is turning his attention to the story rather than the adventure. And he hopes the message from his efforts is gett ing through. “I talk to a lot of schools and people don’t say kids care about adventures anymore because they’re too focused on their Gameboys. But when I show pictures and talk about life out there kids get turned on.

Even with adults – I don’t think people think often about what we do and how it impacts on all our oceans.” Jon Bowermaster is a featured speaker at the Trade Association of Paddlesports’ 25th West Coast Sea Kayak Symposium Sept. 19-21 in Port Townsend, Washington. For more on his trips, DVDs and books, visit his website at www.jonbowermaster.com.

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23

Water Trails

by Dan Armitage

Great Calusa “W

HOOSH!” It sounded like porpoise spouting in slow motion directly behind me, and I was startled as my kayak drifted across the quiet pocket of water tucked back in the mangroves. Looking down into the stained salt water, the bottom seemed to be moving past about a foot beneath my kayak. What made this troubling was that I had drifted to a stop in water that was about six feet deep. That “bottom” turned out to be the mud-brown back of a thousand-pound manatee cruising right under my craft after a noisy nasal exchange of air. My fi rst close encounter with a “sea cow” took place on my fi rst day paddling a 190-plus-mile water trail called the Great Calusa Blueway. It flanks a particularly scenic stretch of sub-tropical, southwest Florida coastline. It’s a route I fi nd myself recommending to fellow kayakers every chance I get, and for more than mere manatee sightings. Plans for the paddle trail began in 2003 when officials with Florida’s Lee County Parks and Recreation Department and the county’s Visitor and Convention Bureau both recognized the value of boating to visitors and residents of southwest Florida. They wanted to create something special for watersports enthusiasts who preferred to travel by paddle power, while at the same time showcasing the value of the fragile nearshore areas and the wildlife wonders available only to shallow water explorers. A waterways coordinator was hired to oversee and promote the program. That job went to local outdoor columnist Betsy Clayton, who was covering the trail development process as part of her boating beat at the local newspaper. The Great Calusa Blueway Paddling Trail is being developed in three phases and, “in the end, its 190 marked trails meander through most of our scenic waterways, but there are still unmarked parts left to discover,” Clayton said. The fi rst two phases were done by 2005, and encompass two distinct regions of the Gulf of Mexico coast. The fi rst portion meanders through Estero Bay, while the newest section directs paddlers through

Florida's Blueway trail a chance to mix paddling, camping styles, fishing and even manatees

Stopped at a temporary tidal island; above: exploring mangrove water-tunnels. 24

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

OCT0BER-DECEMBER 2008

The Great Calusa Blueway the scenic bays of Sanibel and Captiva islands, and the waters around Pine Island. The third leg of the trail created a paddle-friendly route up the Caloosahatchee River near Fort Myers, completed last October. The Calusa Blueway Paddling Festival, which will run Oct. 25 to Nov. 2, highlights all three phases. After consulting with Clayton, I decided to tackle part of the Phase 2 section. The route I chose would take me from a barrier island to a stretch along the mainland, allowing me to take advantage of four different overnight accommodation options. It would also give me the chance to experience what many residents and visitors consider an oasis among the more developed areas of the Sunshine State: Pine Island. The latter was a fitt ing jumping-off point for my paddle adventure, and one of the most popular among kayakers who have time to tackle but one section of the water trail. Cruising to Cayo Costa Despite scheduling my trail tour during the dry season, in January, I did get wet. Once. Luckily it was on my fi rst night on the trail when I opted for a rustic cabin rather than a tent while camping at Cayo Costa State Park, across Pine Island Sound from Pine Island. Cayo Costa is a true barrier island, separating the sound from the open waters of the Gulf of Mexico, and is about as basic as you can get when it comes to amenities. Campers must bring all their food and water for their stay. The state park there offers rustic cabins and primitive tentcamping sites, and is accessible only by boat. Tropic Star Cruises, based in Pineland on the northwest shore of Pine Island, offers daily ferry service to the island – including kayaks – and offers rental kayaks at the state park. After spending the night of my arrival at the historic Tarpon Lodge in Pineland, Tropic Star’s Capt. Ted Serrell met me at the Tarpon Lodge dock and helped me load my kayak aboard the ferry. Once the other passengers were aboard, Serrell pointed out the sights and the historical highlights – in an educational-yet-entertaining fashion – along the route as my fellow passengers and I made the half-hour cruise to Cayo Costa and the state park dock. Life on the Trail From Pelican Bay at Cayo Costa, paddlers can head south past Cabbage Key to pick up a leg of the Blueway Trail leading south toward Captiva and Sanibel islands across San Carlos Bay and on

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25

Water Trails

Florida celebrates Blueway with festival The third-annual Calusa Blueway Paddling Festival will take place Oct. 25 to Nov. 2 on the Great Calusa Blueway Paddling Trail in Lee County’s waterfront communities. Paddlers, competitors, families and outdoor enthusiasts from around Southwest Florida, the state and the nation are expected to attend the one-of-a-kind eco-event. Nine days of festivities will include competitive canoe/kayak races, a proam kayak fishing tournament, paddling clinics and demonstrations, seminars, family activities, archaeological and environmental events, guided tours, a speakers series and more celebrations along the Great Calusa Blueway. The 2008 Calusa Blueway Paddling Festival includes areas of Pine Island, Fort Myers Beach, Sanibel and Captiva islands, Bonita Springs and Estero, Cape Coral, North Fort Myers, Fort Myers, Alva and Buckingham. Many Lee County hotels and motels are creating “paddling packages” for out-of-town kayakers and canoeists traveling to Southwest Florida for the festival. Such packages are listed before festival time at www.calusabluewaypaddlingfestival.com and at www.fortmyers-sanibel.com. Festival times, dates, locations and more can be found online at www.calusabluewaypaddlingfestival.com. Free trail maps, outfitter information, and more details on the trail can be found online at www.greatcalusablueway.com.

Boen GULF OF MEXICO Gasparilla Sound Grande Boca Grande Pass Jug Creek Cayo Patricia I. Costa Bookelia State Park PINE I. Cayo Part I. Pineland Costa Wood Key

Annie’s Cr.

Cape Coral Sirenia Vista Park Matlacha Park

Little Pine I.

Captiva Pass North Captiva I.

McCardle I. Pine Island Sound Underhill Pt.

Tropical Point Regla I. Shell Pt.

Blind Pass

JN Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge Bowman’s Beach

to Fort Myers Beach and the fi rst phase of the trail. After two days of exploring the coast of Cayo Costa, which included several interludes with resident manatees, wild pig sightings and some excellent fishing, I chose the main stem

Sanibel San Carlos Causeway Punta Rassa Bay Point Ybel Tarpon Bay Fort Sanibel Myers Sanibel I. Beach

of the Blueway Phase 2, which directs paddlers east toward the hamlet of Bokeelia on the northern tip of Pine Island. There, Clayton had recommended staying at Jug Creek Cottages, which caters to

Don't type the links! Visit wavelengthmagazine.com and link with a click. Plus get additional information such as launch site descriptions online. Working through a mangrove maze. 26

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OCT0BER-DECEMBER 2008

The Great Calusa Blueway

Paddlers relax at the Sun and the Moon Inn in Matlacha after a day on the Great Calusa Blueway. The Inn is one of more than a dozen accommodations that cater to kayakers along the 190-mile water trail off Southwest Florida.

paddlers and offers small housekeeping cabins near the head of a canal right off the Blueway in the heart of Bookelia. I was able to beach the kayak and leave it unlocked at the ramp located at the end of the canal and walk to my funky, palm framed, pastel-painted, one-bedroom cottage. The following day’s paddle from Bokeelia to Matlacha was a delightful ten-mile cruise that I took all day to tackle as I stopped to fish at every chance. Ducking into shallow bays and exploring sandy tidal islets, I hooked several sea trout and redfish along the route, one of the latter large enough to drag me around Nantucket sleigh ride-style before breaking off . The waterways coordinator was dead-on in selecting that night’s accommodation, which offered a waterfront swimming pool and hot tub to ease muscles made sore by the past three days’ paddling. The Sun and the Moon Inn in Matlacha is right on a canal along the Blueway,

within walking distance of several restaurants, a seafood market and a bait and tackle shop, and a “must stop” for anyone exploring that section of the trail. Owner Curt Peer is an avid kayaker and doting host, the combination creating one of the most paddler-friendly properties on the Eastern Seaboard and a magnet for local kayakers as well as guests. In fact, rather than returning my rental kayak to Backwater Outfitters just up the street in Matlacha, I simply hosed it down and left it on the lawn for the next lucky guest, arriving that afternoon with plans to pick up where I had stopped, and continue on down the trail. That’s the spirit of cooperation that pervades this kayak-friendly corner of the Sunshine State, where it’s all about promoting paddle power and sharing its pleasures with one and all.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Visiting Lee County: 800-237-6444; FortMyers-Sanibel.com Great Calusa Blueway Trail: 800-237-6444; 239-533-7275; greatcalusablueway.com Calusa Blueway Paddling Festival: 239-433-3855; calusabluewaypaddlingfestival.com Tropic Star Cruises: 239-283-0015; tropicstarcruises.com Backwater Outfitters: 239-541-2532; backwateroutfitters.com Gulf Coast Kayak: 239-283-1125; gulfcoastkayak.com Tarpon Lodge: 239-283-3999; tarponlodge.com Cayo Costa State Park: 941-964-0375; floridastateparks.org/cayocosta Jug Creek Cottages: 239-283-0015; tropicstarcruises.com The Sun & the Moon Inn: 888-321-3192; sunandmoon.net

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

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Reflections

The spirit of kayaking

A

LL I WANTED TO DO on my last day in Florida was paddle, so, before the rest of the family considered any other options, my father-in-law Stacy and I were dropping into the water. He had been a constant companion on my paddling excursions during this vacation. A long-time canoeist, he had found a new passion in kayaking and was right behind me as I crossed the channel from San Carlos Island to Estero Island’s Ft. Myers Beach, on part of the Great Calusa Blueway. Nothing was planned; we just wanted to be on the water. As we approached the inland side of the island we began to explore the man-made channels that formed watery subdivisions. We floated through them discussing the changes since Hurricane Charley had hit the area in 2004. Mansions were flanked by ramshackle cottages and cleared lots, the island’s reminder of that category four hurricane. Stacy had mentioned that manatees were routinely seen in these channels. We didn’t expect to see any of the endangered species on our meandering journey through the wateralleys, but in one channel we noticed a woman staring into the water, a forgotten cup of coffee in her hand. When we came broadside of her she simply stated that two manatees had just passed by the pier. We immediately sat up and focused on the water around us. We peered into the green water, continuously searching for anything that might be a manatee, and my mind obliged me by creating shapes rising from the gray depths. Time passed and my anticipation turned to impatience. Finally the water stirred and a

28

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

by Matthew Crane

A moment with

manatees Chance encounter on the Florida coast creates profound change for family

gray form began to rise. The shape became defi ned, and I could see hair and a head and a long round fluke with a single bite out of it. My heart stopped; my boat seemed so small and insignificant to the expanse of what must have been the manatee’s back. It rose slowly up and another gray shape floated up out of the blackness beside it. At about half the size of the mother, it matched her speed and slow grace as they broke the surface and exhaled together; they inhaled loudly and sank again.

OCT0BER-DECEMBER 2008

We stared after them until they were gone and then we waited. The pair came and went several more times, sometimes staying down so long we thought they were gone, but they would surprise us and reappear again. We called our wives, who were rushing to meet us. We hoped they could access the channel from the street, but there was nothing we could do but float and wait for each precious sighting hoping the rest of our family would arrive

Paddling with manatees

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before the manatees left . The sun rose high above us as we watched. Eventually the water was just a glare with no manatees. Feeling that our time with them was over, we slowly began to paddle to the bay, but a few strokes into our departure a gray shape appeared behind Stacy’s boat. Baby had become curious and was now investigating us. Stacy and I began to slowly paddle back to the area we had last seen the pair. We were afraid of separating the two and hoped Baby would continue to follow us back to where we thought Momma was. Luckily, Momma surfaced in front of us and Baby continued to follow us, drift ing from boat to boat. Her intense curiosity and innocence touched my heart. She bumped the boats and swam underneath us, seeming to play. She spent more time investigating Stacy. When she surfaced near him he would talk to her and she would look at him inquisitively. My father-in-law, the manatee whisperer! Baby didn’t seem to mind me floating around trying to snap pictures. The rest of the family fi nally found us. Baby had rejoined Momma by this time and they were back into their old rotation. We made a switch on the kayaks while the manatees were underwater, allowing my son Jacob and his grandmother Debbie a chance to be close to them when they came up. My wife had paddled our third kayak across the bay to our channel and showed up soon after we made the switch. Stacy and I sat on the pier watching the rest of our family make their own memories. I watched as my son’s body stiffened, much as mine probably did the fi rst time I saw them. He turned his head slowly and whispered that they were right beside him. Debbie was nearby and she swung her head around and let out a quiet “oh.” Soon afterward they surfaced beside my wife and she had her moment of awe. We stayed with them until the hot sun fi nally drove us to return home. The experience was behind us but something was different within us. We have bonded rather closely since then. Our two families do things together all the time now and for a while after the encounter we all had a litt le different view on the world. The unplanned nature of paddling creates moments that live forever in memories: coming around a bend into view of a sunset silhouett ing a great blue heron as it fishes for its supper, fi nding an eagle scraping the mirrored surface of a lake or floating with a manatee mother and baby – these are the moments that paddlers carry with them forever. These experiences change us and enrich our lives more than we may ever realize. Reflections is writing that captures the spirit of kayaking. Matt Crane is a writer and outfitter. His paddling began in Italy and now he spends time on the rivers and streams of the Midwest kayak fishing and introducing others to the sport. He dreams of warm blue water with frolicking manatees.

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Options

Beyond ocean kayaking

by Sheila Porteous

Rigged out Joanne Nicolson, left, and Sheila Porteous take an OC2 through the paces in Victoria's Inner Harbour.

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improving the overall management of chronic disease. I know all about chronic conditions: I have a congenital heart defect that requires an implantable defibrillator for backup, and knees so riddled with arthritis that my tibia bones are starting to bend like bows for fi ring arrows. My problem is fi nding a sport that will contribute to a full body and cardiovascular workout. I am not prepared to join a gym fi lled with the twenty-something, lycra-wearing crowd. Running does not agree with my ruined knees. Hockey, soccer and other team sports are often difficult to schedule into a life full of work, school and family. Besides that, team sports often have complicated rules, and worst of all spectators. Swimming, touted as the gentlest sport, is something I can’t engage in without a certain Raffi song about belugas repeating in the back of my mind – much to my chagrin. Unwilling to give in, I searched for years to fi nd the right fitness activity. My strengths are based on sitt ing, relaxing and enjoying the scenery. I am also a social person who enjoys the company and motivation of others while exercising. With such talents in mind,

Outriggers I happened upon paddling. The sport of outrigger canoeing is expanding worldwide and it's not surprising: this physical activity is accessible, affordable, flexible, and offers a complete body workout. There are seven clubs associated with the Canadian Outrigger Association (CORA) here on Vancouver Island alone, making it a convenient and accessible sport. There are three clubs along Victoria’s scenic Gorge waterway. Membership includes all the equipment you will need to get started in the sport, including use of the boats. The clubs have paddles, personal flotation devices (PFDs), lights for the boats and, of course, a variety of racing kayaks and canoes. The OC6 is the most popular canoe. It seats six people, is easy to get in and out of and is the most stable boat. People with disabilities, including those who require wheelchairs, can also participate in this sport with the willing support of their team. OC1s are boats suited to a single paddler, while OC2s are boats built for two. All you will need is some comfortable, wet weather exercise wear and you’re set. The goals of individual paddlers vary. Some thrive on racing and competition, others crave personal fitness and achievement, and some engage in paddling for purely recreational purposes. Even in an OC6, fitness goals can vary for each person in the boat. A person can paddle at 100% effort while someone in the seat behind them paddles at 50%; the boat still moves forward. People who choose to enter paddling competitions will team up before races and enter events with individuals who have similar goals. For some people, racing is never a consideration. Once you have mastered the basic stroke, the sport itself is painless and meditative. Often

in the winter, when paddling after dark, there is nothing but you, the boat and your paddle to think about. Teammates typically chatter and joke while out in the boat; as a result, friendships often develop (and sometimes even romance arises!). Outrigging is a sport well-suited to rainy West Coast winters. In Victoria, on days where the wind is blowing, a team can travel up the Gorge in relative safety away from the wind. The Gorge waterway and the Inner Harbour are beautiful all year round. On sunny and calm days, a moderately skilled team can enjoy exploring Victoria’s breakwater and beyond. Generally speaking, paddlers are a friendly and welcoming group that is disinclined to judge someone on their size or athletic ability. Often the most important part of being a “good paddler” is simply showing up with a positive att itude. People in paddling clubs have a plethora of personalities, ranging from shy to incredibly outgoing. Outrigging offers someone striving toward fitness social opportunities as well as a way to gently increase their overall fitness level at their own pace.

Sheila Porteous has been an enthusiastic paddler for many years and divides her time between kayaking and outrigger paddling. In order to help people with barriers enter the world of kayaking, she is obtaining her Assistant Overnight Guide certification through SKGABC.

Join us for our 22nd year!

KAYAKING IN PARADISE: Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula

Remote rainforest paddling, lodge-based. Corcovado National Park visits. Calm seas and estuary rivers. Cloud forest birding tours. Small groups (6 or less). Weekly departures Dec–April. Plus year-round kayaking at Galiano Island in BC’s beautiful Gulf Islands.

250-539-2442 www.seakayak.ca [email protected]

e the adven Liv ture

FOR MORE INFORMATION: In Canada, an umbrella group is the Canadian Outrigger Racing Association, www.canadianoutrigger.com. They have a list of member clubs that are spread throughout British Columbia and as far as Ontario. In Washington and Oregon states, an umbrella group is the Pacific Northwest Outrigger Racing Canoe Association, www.pnworca.org. There's even a member club in Montana. The "Outrigger Links" tab on the website will take you to other paddling organizations along the East Coast and as far as Australia. Another site with a comprehensive list of clubs is www.ocpaddler.com/canoeclubs. Their list of canoe clubs around the world covers from Asia to Latin America.

Carly Harris

www.salusmarine.com OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

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31

wavelengthmagazine.com

Your guide to the new

www.wavelen

1. Find your way home. The main home page for Wavelength Magazine is your gateway to all the new online features. Most features can be reached by a new menu (1) down the left side of the page. From there you can find information on where to paddle, how to paddle and what to paddle with. More on that later. The home page is also your base for downloading the latest magazine (2).

3 bl 1

2

The home page will also let you know what's new, but the menu options you have will follow you through every one of the 1,500+ pages that make up the Wavelength Magazine website. So you're never far from home (3).

2. Catch up on your reading.

3. Search for specifics.

Did you know that the articles from the last 14 years of Wavelength Magazine are available online? This makes it hands-down the most comprehensive kayaking resource on the web. You can read individual articles in HTML or download magazines in PDF form. From the "Readers Welcome" tab (4) select the "Back Issues" tab (5). Once there you'll find a new set of tabs (6) allowing you to browse all the Wavelength magazines between 1994 and today.

8 4 7

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6 9

OCTOBER-DECEMBER OCT0BER-DECEMBER 2008 2008

Want to know how to repair gelcoat on your kayak? Or how about finding out about that offside extended paddle roll? No problem! We've developed our 14 years of online articles into categories, so you can search by specific interest. From the main menu on any page select the "Paddling info" tab (7), then take your pick of what interests you. You'll find information on safety, skills, ecology, gear, kayaks... But we're especially happy with the section titled "Info for Beginners." We've gone through our archive and picked out the articles of special interest to those just starting paddling. You can also search the site by word (8), such as Italy's Elba Island.

A tip for visitors: We've worked a few state-of-the-art features into our website – some so new that older browsers may not be able to handle them. If you cannot scroll down to read the text offscreen, or do not see the scroll bar on most pages (9), you are probably using Explorer 6 or another earlier version. By updating to Explorer 7 you will get to use the advanced features on this and other websites.

wavelengthmagazine.com

gthmagazine.com 4. Join in.

bk

Become a part of Wavelength's growing online community by becoming a member of our Wavelength Forum (bk). New as of July 1, it's a chance to discuss issues, share ideas, ask questions and share your expertise. Look for it under the "Connect Through Wavelength" tab (bl, left page) on the main menu. It's the paddling club for the independent paddler!

5. Plan your travels. We've got a world of travel information available for you online. And you can search for it region by region. From the main menu use the "Paddle the World" tab (bm), then explore by area. You'll find lots of additional information here not available through the magazine.

6. Shop around. Lots of great adventures are just a click away. So are the experts that can make your travel plans a reality. The main services are split under two headings. For tours, courses, schools, destinations and accommodation, look under the "Paddle with Pros" tab (bn). The "Search for Kayaks, Gear and More" tab (bo) is your option for getting in touch with manufacturers, retailers and specialists in handy categories. You can also buy, sell and trade through our free online Classified Ads. It's right at the top of the tab (bp) that opens when you hover your cursor over the "Search for Kayaks, Gear and More" menu option (bo). You can even find jobs here! Or advertise one.

bm

7. Visit regularly. These changes at Wavelength Magazine online are just the first of many taking place on our website. Some great new features will be up and running soon. So be sure to check back – there's bound to always be something new.

bn bo OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

bp WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

33

New Gear

by John Kimantas

Paddling, Salt Lake City-style S

ALT LAKE CITY is an unlikely venue for a summer kayaking destination. But every summer it becomes an outdoor lover's mecca, att racting paddling gear manufacturers and retailers from across the world for North America's largest outdoor trade show. Naturally, it's a great opportunity to show off the next year's new product lines, with companies scrambling to get prototypes ready or production models out in time for Outdoor Retailer, affectionately

known as OR. Wavelength Magazine also attended, shutt ing down the office for a week and trundling down on a 3,000-mile drive to take a look at what's new in the industry (plus San Francisco, CA, and Newport, OR, as well, just to explain the 3,000 miles). The result is probably the oddest showcase of new paddling gear we've ever accumulated – no reflection on the high number of booths dispensing free beer, we assure you.

1. The kayaks Boreal Designs

Epsilon

Boreal Designs has a new entry for the Brit-boat category with the innovative Epsilon. Or rather, six Epsilons, with a model catering to every size of kayaker. The 16'4" P100/C100 is 22½" wide and designed for paddlers 90-160 pounds. The 17-foot P200/C200 is 23½" wide and made for kayakers 140-225 pounds. The 17'6" P300/C300 is 24¼" wide and made for people 200-280 pounds. The P and C designates a choice of polyethylene or composite, meaning Boreal has built an Epsilon for every budget as well as every size of kayaker. www.borealdesign.com.

Boreal Designs sales manager Guy Bourassa shows off the new Epsilon line at Salt Lake City, a comprehensive line of Greenland-style kayaks that are sure to add fuel to a new North American Brit-boat war.

Infinity

Current Designs

The Brit-style boat batt le is going to become very heated, especially with Current Designs' entry into the fray with its new Infi nity (above). Aficionados will appreciate the classic Greenland style. But expedition kayakers will love the volume. Classed as an expedition-grade kayak, it is designed to accommodate both larger paddlers and large loads of gear. The specs: 17'9" long, 22 inches wide and a weight of 48/42 in fiberglass and kevlar. Not big enough? Need that super-sized? No problem. Enter the Isle (below): a Isle massive (18' long by 24" wide) boat designed for larger paddlers seeking a Greenlandstyle kayak. It is meant to deliver the edging and rolling of a performance Greenlander but with a hard chine. Infinity These are just two of seven new boats by Wenonah under the Current Designs brand name for 2009. www.cdkayak.com. Great Salt Lake, Utah.

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OCT0BER-DECEMBER 2008 2008 OCTOBER-DECEMBER

New Gear

Walker Bay It's not a traditional kayak, but Walker Bay/Airis knows what many traditional kayakers may not: the fastest-growing market segment is small, fun paddle boats geared towards families, fishermen and funseekers. Walker Bay has four new craft for 2009, including the Tender, a blend of function and good old-fashioned kayaking. You'll fi nd a bow storage compartment, holders to keep the paddle safe when ashore, a bow line for docking, storage bungees, integrated foot rests and two removable skegs for tracking and portability. The stern cargo space also has the Versa-Track system for an optional platform and is ideal for a storage cart, as the bungee restraints keep it in place when fully loaded. The Tender also features Walker Bay’s exclusive Connect-a-Yak, a system that enables you to connect two or more boats bow-to-stern to create a tandem kayak. www.airisinflatables.com. WWW.FEATHERCRAFT.COM / MADE IN CANADA / PADDLED WORLDWIDE

Hobie “We know our stuff”

Kayakers with an open mind to the non-traditional and an eye for fun will appreciate Hobie's new i9S. For starters, there's the MirageDrive – pedals to replace your paddle, leaving your hands free for photos, fishing or any other water-based hobby you might have. Picture it working like the fl ippers of a penguin, a species that figured out long before kayakers what works well in the water. Hobie tells us their system is faster than paddling. We have to imagine it also has the potential to be a great core body workout. The i9S deflates and stows in an airline-friendly travel bag, and has a kick-up rudder that can lie flat on the deck for shallow water or transport, with the rudder controlled by a fi ngertip mechanism on the side of the kayak when you need it. Add a rear cargo storage area, mid-boat plus bow and stern carrying handles, and a multitude of accessory options to customize your craft . www.hobie.com.

Ocean River’s senior instructor/guide, Gary Doran.

getting you out there since 1981

A Proud “on water” Current Designs dealer 1824 STORE STREET VICTORIA, BC. PH 250.381.4233 • TOLL FREE 1 800 909 4233 WWW.OCEANRIVER.COM OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

35

New Gear

Old Modern The hands-down winner for both the unlikeliest and prett iest kayak of the show went to the oddest of sources: Vietnam. Old Modern Handicrafts has been building and exporting mostly scale model boats for years. But it also turns out a full-size (17-foot) cedar strip kayak that fans of wooden boat craftsmanship will fi nd stunning. It is truly an international project. The cedar is Canadian, the fiberglass from the U.S. and the workmanship from Vietnam. Worried it's a cheap Asian import? Well, the workmanship speaks for itself. Each kayak takes about 200 hours of labor to build, we were told. (And it would take me that long just for the model.) Can't afford the full deal? Old Modern's line of model boats also includes scale canoes and kayaks, with about as much attention to This scale-model (about 17 inches as opposed to 17 feet) shows the workmanship of the Old Modern Handicrafts line. detail as the full-size parents. A perfect Christmas present for the kayaker with everything. www.handicraftscan.com.

2. Paddles Crystal by H2O Paddles The clear pick for the prett iest new paddles at Outdoor Retailer had to be the new Crystal series by H2O Paddles. Get ready to be bogged down in jargon: the 2009 series of touring blades features lexan polycarbonate, a multi-component blade construction, and the part that makes it look so prett y: the industry's fi rst all polycarbonate translucent lexan blade. The result is a strong, lightweight blade that will be interesting to test for strength and performance. The model on show at Outdoor Retailer was a pre-production prototype only. But an eyecatcher nonetheless. Expect both high and low angle blade styles with both carbon and glass and straight and bent shafts available. The translucent options for color will be crystal red, crystal blue and crystal green. Want to save a bit of cash? Solid colors will be available as well. www.h2opaddles.com

Aquabound The range of paddle options for kayak fishermen is growing by leaps and bounds. The fight is on to create the perfect multi-purpose tool. The standard feature now on fishing-oriented paddles is a measuring tape on the handle. No more struggling for your tape measure! Another good one was a hole to hang the scale on so you can weigh your fish while still out on your boat. But the best of show among paddles designed for fishermen had to be Aqua-Bound's Fin Stalker. As well as the mandatory ruler on the back side of the blade and shaft , it has a matte blank fi nish to minimize reflections – no scaring the fish with the shine from this blade. But what reeled us in: the hook retrieval system built into the blade – you can remove snags by reaching your paddle out and hooking the line with blade. Defi nitely the catch of the day. www.aquabound.com. 36

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OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

New Gear

3. Fun stuff Seattle Sports Love it or hate it, it's an iPod world now. For those who love it, protecting your iPod from the elements can be a problem. Or rather, was a problem. Accessories for iPods seemed the dominant new product among manufacturers for 2009, with all manner of waterproof iPod covers to solve your portable music issues. But the design of the show had to go to Seatt le Sports. Well-known already for their line of dry stuff sacks, waterproof backpacks and dry gear bags, Seatt le Sports has joined the mp3 craze with its Audio Dry Pockets and Micro Dry Stuff Sacks. Take your choice of fashionable colors (warning: the flowery pink may clash with certain PFDs). But what we liked best was the audio jack that meshes with an internal cord that allows you to plug in your headphones while your iPod is snug and dry inside the pouch. But what about powering your iPod over the weeks and months of a Congolese, Himalayan or Antarctic expedition? If you can't plug it in but must simply have music in the outback, Seatt le Sports has that covered too – a USB solar charger with panels that slide open, or fold back into a handle for the built-in three-function flashlight. We could add the device's USB port could conceivably power a laptop computer as well as your iPod, but we have to draw the line somewhere. A public service reminder: the idea is to get away from it all, not take it with you! With all this, you might forget. www.seatt lesportsco.com.

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"59&!#4/29$)2%#4

Aerobed

3ECONDS!VAILABLE7HILE3UPPLIES,AST

If your traditional self-inflating sleeping pad leaves you with anything less than a desirable sleep, the Dry Gear Solo by Aerobed may be your answer. Th is producer of inflatable stuff has created a blow-up matt ress to compete with self-inflating sleeping pads. Consider: an advertised weight of 4 pounds, an inflated height of seven inches, a fit for people up to 6'6", and it folds to the size of a standard self-inflating pad. Plus no fear of gett ing wet if caught sleeping below the tide line. You can simply float away! (Not advisable, but hey, it could happen.) And for the kayaker with everything: also from Aerobed, the inflatable sofabed couch! Can't wait till they invent the inflatable hi-def TV. www.thinkaero.com.

WWWNIMBUSPADDLESCOMsINFO NIMBUSPADDLESCOM

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

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37

Paddle Meals

by Hilary Masson

Go green with this fun salsa M

Y ANNUAL MIGRATION down to the green waters of the Sea of Cortez has inspired a lot of paddle meal creations. I have been fortunate enough to both taste and watch the creation of many different meals. One thing I have learned is that no matter what the meal, a good salsa only makes it better. The fi rst of these two salsa recipes is the most unique and in my mind the tastiest. Agua Verde green salsa is as special and unique as its namesake in Baja Mexico. There is something special about the beautiful green waters of this small fishing town and I have enjoyed many memorable meals on its sandy shores. Green tomatillos are the main ingredient in this salsa and give it its amazing color and flavor. Tomatillos are a baby green tomato with a leafy casing. When choosing your tomatillo, get the tiniest ones possible because they are the most flavorful. I fi nd green salsa goes well with anything; you can make it as mild or spicy as you like. The tart flavor of green tomatillos goes well with any dish, especially seafood. Tomatillos are quickly becoming one of my favorite ingredients, and something that I think many people may shy away from because they don’t know how to use them. For a twist on the standard huevos rancheros, try them sautéed with onion and peppers then add them to scrambled eggs. They also go well in pasta

Discover the magic of tomatillos in your Agua Verde green salsa

sauces and stir-fries. Preparing tomatillos is easy. All that needs to be done is to peal the thin green leaves off the outside. Once pealed you will notice that they have an almost sticky feel to the inner skin. Th is is normal and becomes better after a good

rinse. Now they are ready for use, either cut into chunks for a stir-fry or diced for a pasta sauce. A hand-cranked blender on the beach works well for use in a salsa. It’s just that easy. I hope these become a memorable part of your next kayak adventure.

Agua Verde green salsa: as smooth as you like Ingredients: 8-10 tomatillos 1 large roasted green bell pepper 1-4 jalapeno peppers (mild to fiery hot) 1 lime (or 2-3 key limes), squeezed 1 bunch of cilantro, chopped fi ne 1 clove of garlic, pressed or diced Onion, ¼ cup diced Salt to taste 1 tbsp white vinegar White sugar to taste (optional) Preparation: Depending on how you like your salsa, chunky or smooth, you can use either a hand-cranked blender or mortar and pestle. I fi nd the latter 38

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

works best to achieve a smoother salsa while still keeping some texture. Peal and rinse your tomatillos. They are great raw, but can be roasted along with the other ingredients. Roasting the tomatillos, peppers, garlic, and onion gives this salsa a much better flavor. You can roast them on a barbecue, a campfi re, a fry pan or even in the oven set on broil. You know they are ready when the outer skin turns light brown and small bubbles are visible. Once roasted, remove the seeds and cut into chunks. Depending on how spicy you like your salsa you may decide to leave or remove the seeds from the jalapeno peppers; leaving them in will make it much hotter. Adding a litt le sugar to the salsa can enhance the salsa flavor. Some people also like to add white vinegar, but I usually prefer not to due to the tartness of the tomatillos. Combine all ingredients into your handcranked blender or mortar and pestle and have fun!

OCT0BER-DECEMBER 2008

Paddle Meals

Play with mix for Salsa Fresca Th is second recipe is a classic that no kayak trip, or meal at my house, would be complete without. Ingredients: 6 large tomatoes, diced 1 small onion, diced ½ green bell pepper, diced ½ orange/yellow bell pepper, diced 5-10 tomatillos, diced 1-4 jalapeno peppers, chopped fi ne 1 lemon (or 2-3 key limes), squeezed 1 bunch of cilantro, chopped fi ne Salt, to taste Preparation: You can really play with this salsa. Add any extra vegetables you have; grated carrot or diced cucumber go well. Also, try adding fruit like mango or pineapple for a more refreshing salsa. I prefer this salsa chunky, so cutt ing everything into uniform sized pieces works well, but it can also be done in a hand-cranked blender or mortar and pestle for a smoother texture. Experiment, be creative and spice up the meals on your next kayak adventure. No matter what green salsa, it’s sure to please!

Celebrating 36 Years www.easyriderkayaks.com kayaks – canoes rowing shells catamarans outriggers sail rigs catalog package & video: $20 ppd. (see website)

factory direct

Canoe & Kayak Co. P.O. Box 88108 Seattle, WA 98138 425-228-3633

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

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39

Day Trip #1: East Coast

by Keith and Heather Nicol

The first of Wavelength's new feature offering practical introductions to paddling places around North America.

Paddling with a view of Gros Morne's Tablelands behind Bonne Bay. Inset: Trout River Pond.

A touch of Arizona in Nfld. G

ROS MORNE National Park, located at the base of the Northern Peninsula in Western Newfoundland, is the largest national park in Atlantic Canada. Facing the Gulf of St. Lawrence, you can paddle down inland fjords as impressive as any in Norway, or past sea stacks and long sandy beaches. Gros Morne is best known for its unusual geology, which has made it a UNESCO World Heritage site. A plate collision 300 million years ago thrust the ocean mantle (peridotite) on top of the land. Peridotite has an unusual chemical composition and is toxic to most plants, creating a barren appearance, and thanks to the high concentration of iron, a reddishbrown color. Th is tends to make this part of Newfoundland look more like Arizona than Eastern Canada. Gros Morne is known for its hiking trails but less so for its sea kayaking. Where to Paddle Beginners: Beginners can paddle in many places in the park but a favorite is at Norris Point. Here you can paddle in the protected waters of Bonne Bay. You can also put in at Lomond Campsite or at the Trout River Pond boat launch. The former gives you protected paddling in East Arm of Bonne Bay and the second in one of the inland fjords. In either case you can paddle for up to several kilometers (one way) along the shore with numerous beaches to stop for lunch or a break. Intermediate: Intermediate paddlers can opt for paddling at Cowhead by putt ing in at the community wharf. Here you can

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Shallow Bay Sand beach

Cow Head Nfld.

St. Paul’s Inlet 

Sally’s Cove

Western Brook Pond

Green Pt. Bonne Bay Trout River 

Bakers Brook Pond Visitor Centre

Norris Pt. Lomond

Discovery Centre

Trout River Pond

KM Miles

2



2

4

6 4

paddle around the Cowhead peninsula or out to various offshore islands. Since this area is exposed be careful about wind and weather conditions. You can also try your hand at surf kayaking along the 4-km sand beach at Cowhead, if the conditions are right. A popular trip with the West Coast Kayak Club (if weather conditions are appropriate) is a paddle between the communities of Trout River and Woody Point (24 km), but you will need to work out a car shutt le. Advanced: Advanced paddlers can opt for longer paddles along the shore (from Rocky Harbour to Cowhead), a distance of about 44 km. There are campsites at Green Point that OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

can be used for an overnight trip. Th is route follows the coast so is not recommended in strong west or northwest conditions, since the shore faces directly into the Gulf of St. Lawrence and gett ing off the water could be challenging. Expert paddlers may also want to try paddling Western Brook Pond, a spectacular inland fjord with sheer rock walls as high as 600 metres in places. Attempt this only in good conditions and remember that strong afternoon winds often make the return trip more than you bargained for. There are few pullouts once you enter the fjord. You can camp at the far end, which makes this a good overnight trip. Tips and Hazards: Tides are not large at Gros Morne, and currents are generally not much of an issue. More dangerous are the afternoon winds that often rise up suddenly, and if you are along an open stretch of coastline you may have trouble gett ing off the water. Get the marine weather forecast and pay close attention to it. Water temperatures are generally cool so a wetsuit is suggested, especially for any open water paddling or early or late-season paddling. Whales make a summer appearance so contact the Gros Morne National Park Visitor’s Centre to fi nd out what people are seeing and where. For more information: Visit www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/nl/grosmorne. Gros Morne Adventures rents kayaks and can also give you info about where to paddle (www.grosmorneadventures.com).

Five kayaks. One winner. And one heck of a tough choice. Take your pick. Everyone who subscribes to Wavelength Magazine between July 1, 2008 and Sept. 1, 2009 is automatically entered into a draw for your choice from a menu of five elite kayaks from five of the world's top kayak manufacturers. The winner gets to pick which kayak he or she wants from the five. Such as... Well, you'll have to wait till the winter issue to see the full selection of great choices. Or get a sneak preview online. Watch for details at www.wavelengthmagazine.com this fall. Consider it our way of saying thanks for supporting us. And keep your fingers crossed! Draw is void where prohibited by law. Winner must answer a skill-testing question: (4x9)-16=?

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WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

41

Day Trip #2: Pacific Northwest

S

EATT LE IS a modern city of four million located in a paddler’s paradise otherwise known as the Pacific Northwest’s Puget Sound. With its hundreds of miles of varied shorelines and year-round temperate climate, Puget Sound has something to offer to every level of paddler. Public access of these islands, bays and inlet areas was greatly enhanced in 1989 by the establishment of the Cascadia Marine Trail, which has an expanding list of more than 50 campsites making it possible for humanpowered craft to explore the waters from Olympia to the Canadian border. One of the sparkling jewels of this trail is just seven nautical miles southwest of Seatt le at Blake Island. Busy Washington State ferries make their way past all sides of this quiet spot. Historic maps or charts may call it Smugglers or Trimble Island. In 1974 it was renamed to become a 475-acre parcel of the Washington State Parks system. Formerly an ancestral camping ground for the Suquamish Tribe, it is roughly halfway between Bainbridge and Vashon Islands and less than a mile from the Kitsap Peninsula to the west. With the exception of a park ranger, the only inhabitants within its five miles of scenic shoreline are an abundance of raccoon, deer, bald eagle and other creatures. Tillicum Village, a replica of a Northwest native longhouse complete with restaurant, gift shop and tribal dancing displays, was established in 1961, and continues the native traditions today during the non-winter months. Although a commercial boat brings visitors back and forth to the island’s dock, kayakers can reach the shores in a more traditional way. The Washington State Parks and Recreation system has a well-established campground at the village midway on the east side and a primitive one just around the southwest corner. Washington Water Trails Association (WWTA) shares the northwest point with power boaters on opposing sides of a sandy head and spit. The rewards are many: beautiful mountain views of the Olympics, Cascades or Mt. Ranier; quiet and isolated shores; hiking trails through forests of evergreen and madrona trees; exploring the rocky shores or wave-swept beaches, and clean, established campsites. The WWTA site offers a hull-friendly sandy point with its ongoing dune grass restoration efforts

by Lisa A. Johnson

Blake Island

Photo courtesy Washington State Parks.

The harbour at Blake Island – a refuge just a hop from the busy city.

Bliss near Seattle

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that provide a lovely contrast to the city skyline of Seatt le. All campsites charge a modest fee and accept cash or checks. You must be a member of WWTA or have a member in your group to stay at their site. Those sites are limited and all camping spots are fi rst-come, fi rst-served. Where to paddle: Beginners: If coming from the mainland on the east side, beginners would do well to take a ferry. You can then launch from various points, or close to the ferry dock on Vashon Island or the Southworth ferry dock on the Kitsap side. Intermediate: Intermediate kayakers can start from Eagle Harbor or other places on Bainbridge Island or from Manchester State Park on the northeast side of the Kitsap Peninsula. All of these launch points are within one to five nautical miles of the island. Advanced: More advanced westbound paddlers can exercise their options from areas such as Golden Gardens Park in Seatt le, West Seatt le, Alki Beach or Des Moines (not shown

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

on the map). Be forewarned – the ferries are not the only hazard. See below. Tips and hazards: A major shipping lane exists between the Seatt le side and Blake Island. Kayakers must use extreme caution in this area and it is highly recommended that a marine radio be monitored at all times when crossing. Seatt le Vessel Traffic personnel can be reached on channel 14. The tides flood south and ebb north in Puget Sound. Use the Seatt le primary and Seatt le, Elliott Bay or Eagle Harbor, Bainbridge Island as the secondary station when consulting tide charts. Current tables list this entire area as “weak and variable.” However, I have experienced a defi nite push on several occasions, particularly eastbound on the ebb. While some of the crossings can be less than two miles, be aware that the wind can rise very quickly, with whitecaps appearing suddenly. Th is is especially true in the fi nicky spring and fall months. One of the nice things about this paddle is the option to ride back on the ferry if conditions change for the worse. Pack your wheels! The Washington State Ferry system requires them for all kayakers who opt to walk on instead of driving on with their boats.

Blake Island, Washington BAINBRIDGE I. Eagle Harbor

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Lisa A. Johnson is an active member and trip leader in various paddling organizations in the Puget Sound area and is currently the Programs Chair for the Washington Kayak Club. If you are interested in finding out more about kayaking or the WKC, attend one of the free monthly presentations in downtown Seattle. You don’t have to be a member to attend. Lisa can be reached at lajbkayak@ yahoo.com.

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WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

43

Day Trip #3: British Columbia

by John Kimantas

Launch at Nanaimo, then turn left Y

OU MIGHT know Nanaimo for the wrong reason – passing through by ferry. After all, Nanaimo's Departure Bay ferry terminal is a major link to Vancouver Island and all its various att ractions: Tofi no, Clayoquot Sound, the West Coast Trail, Johnstone Strait. It's easy to simply slip by Nanaimo without a glance. Some lucky kayakers know differently. There's one huge obvious att raction: Newcastle Island. Its treed shoreline is a scenic backdrop for the entrance to Nanaimo Harbour, providing trails, campsites, picnic spots, viewpoints and a rich history – all within minutes of the downtown, by either handy ferry or paddling. For kayakers, paddling past the dramatic cliffs and stopping at the sandy beaches for a picnic lunch makes a half-day circumnavigation of the island time well spent. Often overlooked, though, is what lies to the north of Newcastle Island (or to the left , if you will). Islands, reefs, lagoons, sand beaches, cliffs, a nature sanctuary and the Gulf Islands' only paddle-through sea cave can be found within just a few square miles. The gem is Jesse Island, a private sanctuary well protected by two vicious dogs, so be prepared for an aggressive greeting. However, offshore you're safe enough, despite the show of bared teeth, so it is safe to paddle the fretted sandstone cliffs and the caves – if you don't mind being under heavy canine watch as you pass. You can extend a paddle around Newcastle to the right (south) as well, heading around residential Protection Island. Where to paddle: Beginners: The simplest launch site is at Brechin boat ramp, southeast of the ferry terminal adjacent to Alberni Outpost's Nanaimo Adventure Center, which offers rentals. Once in Newcastle Island Passage, novice paddlers can visit Newcastle Island (a beautiful beach awaits just across the launch site), or Nanaimo Harbour with its

The cliffs outside Jesse Island.

Beaches, islands and even a cave make Nanaimo an unexpected pleasure to paddle

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interesting shipyards and marinas in mostly sheltered waters. Intermediate: A trip around Newcastle Island is always worthwhile, though a side trip to Jesse Island is an added bonus. The north shore is one of the most interesting in the Gulf Islands, with its sheer cliffs and caves to explore. From there one can follow the shore north to odd litt le Shack Island and the cliffs of Pipers Lagoon, a popular local park with a long, sandy beach. Advanced: If open water is an att raction, a trip to Snake Island is worthwhile to see the unique limestone ridges and to paddle among the island's many seal inhabitants. Be warned, though: the island is a seabird nesting area and access is off-limits in the spring nesting season. Tips and warnings: Winds can pick up in the afternoon, making even simple trips along Newcastle Island Passage arduous. The prevailing winds in good weather are northwest. Currents can also be strong through here, potentially slowing progress. East of Nares Point on Newcastle Island the conditions are more exposed, with the possibility of wind waves and some swell. As the water is shallow, waves can break well offshore towards McKay Point. Ferries travel through Departure Bay and while sightlines are good, they move quickly. Submerged rocks near Nares Point can also be a hazard.

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

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45

Fishing Angles

by Dan Armitage

A fish in the hand – and how to let go S

IMPLY FINDING a place that fish frequent is half the fun of angling by paddle power. Engaging in activities such as fishing compels us to explore areas that we might otherwise overlook, and the rewards can be awesome. So is the culmination of all the effort extended toward angling, expressed when a fish is fooled by your offering and strikes your bait. For some veteran anglers, the challenge of fishing is fulfi lled the moment their target takes the bait; I know several old-school tarpon anglers in the Florida Keys who remove the hooks from their lures to allow the fishermen to enjoy the jarring strike and the dramatic jump or two they get out of their “catch” before the fish spits their hookless plug. They argue that the best part of tarpon fishing is fooling them in the fi rst place, followed by the initial jump; after that it’s often a long, dogged sub-surface batt le that wastes time when these guys would rather be “jumping” the next tarpon. For most of us, however, anything less than actually landing the fish represents a degree of failure – even if we intend to release the catch in the end anyway. I think it has something to do with gett ing up close and personal with something that lives in that wonderfully mysterious sub-surface world. Then again, the allure may be something more primal: actually handling the fish proves that, if we wanted to, we could keep and eat the catch. A fish in hand being worth two in the water – that sort of thing. Regardless, some skill comes into play once a fish has its maw around your bait, be it live or lure, before you can get it in hand. The fi rst

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Landing fish “freehand” and keeping them in the water as much as possible while removing the hook reduces the stress on the catch, which is important when you want to release the fish. thing you must do is set the hook. To do that, you need a taut line between your rod tip and the bait. Keeping the slack out of the line is a constant chore while fishing, for you never

OCT0BER-DECEMBER 2008

know when a fish will attack. But when it does, you need to be able to lift the rod quickly to pull the line enough to drive the hook’s point into the tough, cartilage-like mouth of the fish.

Kayak fishing Once the hook is set, you should keep the rod tip bent and the line tight to maintain pressure on that hook to stay in place as you reel in the fish. Depending on the size of the tackle and the fish, most of the time you can crank smaller catches right on in to the side of the boat. The fun starts when the fish you have hooked is big and/or strong enough, relative to the tackle you are using, to jump and pull, often hard enough to tow the boat or pull line from the reel’s drag. The drag is an adjustable sett ing on the reel that allows line to be released before the power of the fish pulling it breaks the line. When fighting a large fish the angler often must “pump” the fish in, steadily raising the rod tip on a tight line to bring the fish toward the boat, then dropping the tip to point back at the fish while reeling in the slack gained by the upward pulling to keep the line tight to the fish.

Eventually, if the hook, line and knots hold, the fish will be brought to the side of the boat – which is where most fish are lost by over-eager anglers. Whether you want to keep the fish for eating or not, you need to get control of it and work the hook free. The best way to land and secure a fish aboard a canoe or kayak is to use a net. Nett ing fish single-handed takes some practice, but once you master the method you’ll fi nd it’s best for both the fish and the fisherman – especially if you intend to release the former. The trick is to sink the net and draw the fish over the hoop head-fi rst, and raise it around the catch. That way, if the fish lunges at the touch of the mesh, it will swim right into the nett ing. To cause the least amount of stress to the fish while removing the hook, if possible, reach

over and remove the hook without removing the fish from the water, or ‘lip’ a tooth-free species by putt ing your thumb in its mouth and crooking your index under its jaw to hold it still in or out of the water while you work the hook free. But don’t be fooled. Some fi nned individuals that appear to have succumbed boatside can suddenly become very much alive once you touch them or start poking around their mouths to remove a hook. I’ve been drenched dozens of times and nearly capsized twice while trying to release a fish “freehand” from the side of my kayak. But hey, gett ing a fish to the boat and simply touching the leader counts as a catch in most big-game fishing circles. And when you’re face to face with any fish from a low-profi le kayak, they all look like big game!

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WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

47

Navigation

by Adam Bolonsky

The ABCs of reading charts Learning to read charts is one of those simple yet oddly engrossing skills anyone can pick up in an hour or so. Written, maintained and printed or distributed via a variety online and print sources by the U.S. Hydrographic Service and the National Ocean Service, charts are a wonderful trip planning resource. Reading them as is much art as skill. With a litt le practice, you can use a chart to create richly-detailed trip plans that extend to being able anticipate where shorelines will be landable, where waves are likely to be powerful and tidal currents swift , and where to take cover in a storm.

Here, then, is a brief guide to some of the more useful chart symbols: those that mark major lights and landmarks, boat or shipping channels, and what kinds of coastline, from sand to cliffs to boulders, you can expect to come across anywhere you paddle. The information is for NOAA charts. For Canadian charts use Chart 1, Symbols Abbreviations Terms. The principles are generally the same. The information below is from NOAA Chart No. 1. The information in bold type and brackets corresponds to the section heading on the NOAA download page, if you wish to download just that portion.

useful for helping you figure out where you are. If you see dunes, hills or a boulder-strewn shoreline on the nearshore horizon, look for that shoreline on your chart to figure out where you are – or where you are not!

NOAA Chart No. 1 detail. It's the end of an era. NOAA no longer prints Chart No. 1 in book form. It’s now available only online as a pdf file. Download it at http://nauticalcharts. noaa.gov/mcd/chart1/chart1hr.htm.

Shoreline contour detail, page 15 (natural features). Charts also give the contour and spot heights of the shore. Using these symbols and phrases, your chart will describe prominent visible shoreline features like ridges, mountaintops, cliffs, etc., and the spot height of visible stands of trees or forest. They’re doubly useful to such advanced navigation skills as such triangulation, creating ranges to compensate for tidal set and drift, and drawing LOPs (lines of position) if you keep a log to mark your location over time.

Nature of the shoreline symbols, page 14 (natural features section). Note the extent to which charts represent the kinds of shore (and thus the types of landing challenges and camping challenges we can expect) anywhere along the coastline of North America. The symbols above also are

Light symbol detail, page 61 (lights). Of particular interest to ocean kayakers are major and minor lights, whether onshore or off, all marked with the lavender exclamation point above. Lavender exclamation point symbols for a major light are always followed

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OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

by a code that spell out the light’s color (white unless otherwise remarked), how often the light flashes, in what kind of pattern, and the light’s height and range. The simple alphanumeric codes are easy to decipher, as you’ll see in the next example:

Light period, elevation, range, page 64 (lights section). These codes that follow the lavender exclamation point are for major lights only. They describe the light’s period (how often the light flashes) its height above mean high water level in either feet or meters, and finally the light’s range, or from how far away it is visible at night.

Light color codes, page 63 (lights). A

Reading Charts

Flash light types descriptors, page 62 (lights). Lights are also distinguished, and coded, according to their flash pattern. To get a grip on those various flash patterns, scan the table columns above from left to right. The two left-most columns give the coded abbreviation for the flash patterns to look for. The third, middle column gives the light’s description with a variety of technical terms. Finally the right-hand column shows, graphically, what those different flashes actually look like at night. Being able to distinguish one type of light from another is especially helpful at night.

A complete lighthouse code, page 64 (lights). Putting all those elements together is not all that difficult; indeed, here’s what a full coded lighthouse description looks like. First note the distinctive lavender exclamation point, then the code: FL (3) WRG 15S 21FT 11M In the example above, the light in question flashes white, red or green three times every 15 seconds (FL (3) WRG 15s). The light is 21 feet tall (21 FT) and is visible at a range of eleven miles (11M), not including its looming.

To figure out the period and pattern of a light you see on the horizon, a simple count will do. Count the number of flashes, then count one one-thousand, two one-thousand to time it. Instantly you are much more aware of where you are than you were a moment ago.

Bells and Buoys detail, page 75 (Buoys, Beacons section). Here are the symbols and words used to describe bells, gongs and whistles buoys you’ll come across both inshore and off. Each type is wave activated: as they move up and down in swell or waves their bellows or clangors create a distinct, some would say reassuring sound. The symbols in the two lowest rows shown above (the starboard and port buoys R “2” and “1”) are used to mark, respectively, the numbered red nuns and green cans you’ll see on water. If a nun or can makes a sound or is lit, its code will say so. (The pictured black can doesn’t exist anymore.) Red nuns and green cans mark the channels we as kayakers should stay out of, should cross in tight, easy-to-detect groups, or cross in limited visibility after making a traffic control security call. Keep in mind the mnemonic for boat channels: red right return, which means that boats returning to harbor will leave red nuns to the right (starboard), green cans to port (left). Remember too that waveactivated bells, gongs and whistles, mark either hazards or channels. Their clangs and hoots can be reassuring to hear at night and in fog.

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major light code will also include the light’s color. The code isn’t tricky. W means white, R equals red, and so on. Fortunately, most lighthouses throw a white light, which makes them easy to distinguish from other flashing navigation lights in the area. Other than white, green and red are the most common light colors you’ll see at night. Both colors may be visible at the same time at night, when two buoys close to each other mark a channel. Other times you’ll see red or green only, oftentimes at the edge of a channel or to mark the preferred route around a headland or other hazard.

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September or January starts 2 Years | Campbell River Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor today, or visit our website at www.nic.bc.ca/tourism.

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

49

Don’t send an ordinary greeting card again.

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Wildlife

by James Michael Dorsey

Appreciating the birds After decades of close encounters, osprey tops the list of whale researcher's favorites

W

ITH A cerulean canopy over my head and foamy green water beneath my keel, it is another perfect day off the coast of California. As a marine naturalist, I spend much of my time on the water chasing whales (my chosen specialty), but gradually over the years I have come to have a special appreciation for the myriad selection of seabirds that often accompany me on my paddling journeys. I have had a young eagle that was learning how to fly rest on my deck, and have been dive-bombed by an osprey after I picked up its dropped fish. I have surprised submerged cormorants who surface near me after hunting underwater, and once cut a floundering pelican loose from an abandoned fishing net. I have had a unique look at our coastal winged life and been able to photograph much of it closer than most people will ever have the opportunity to see. Along the shore, I have passed thousands of oystercatchers and sandpipers, feeding in the sand of low tides, and watched countless gulls and Shearwaters dive for leftover scraps among lunge-feeding humpback whales. The silence of a kayak has given me unprecedented entry to this world in ways those in motorized boats will never know. While the array of feathered friends to watch during a paddle is downright staggering, I have chosen here to present some of the more fascinating species based on personal preference and their own natural majesty. These are the birds I see on a regular basis while paddling off the coast of California and have come to call them friends. First by far, has to be the osprey. Pandion haliaetius, colloquially known as a seahawk, fishhawk or sea eagle, is a diurnal raptor found on all continents except Antarctica, although it exists in South America solely as a non-breeding migrant. It is unusual in that it

is a single species found in almost all parts of the world. Diurnal is a fancy scientific term meaning it hunts during the day, and a raptor is a bird of prey. Th is one lives almost exclusively on fish that it expertly scoops out of the water with its razor sharp talons, which have a reversible outer toe allowing for greater grasping ability. It is the only raptor whose talons are of equal length but they are rounded rather than grooved as with other birds of prey. It is regally colored with a mostly white underside but often has a mantle of brown across its chest and dark brown on the top of the wings. The face wears a mask of brown and the eyes range from golden to brown with a clear, pale-blue nictitating membrane. The osprey enters the world after a fiveweek incubation from a clutch of two to four eggs. When fully grown it will stand two feet tall and weigh in at three to four pounds with a six-foot wingspan. It will reach sexual maturity in three to four years and can expect, barring natural calamities, to live 25-30 years. Also, being a true eagle, it mates for life and uses only a single nest, providing nature does not intervene.

James Michael Dorsey can be reached at [email protected]. OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

51

Ecology

by Bryan Nichols

A kayaker's ode to the coconut T

HE WORLD’S most useful tree has nearly killed me twice. And although I’ve been known to hold a grudge, I just can’t stay mad at Cocos nucifera. Like many folks who grew up north of 48 degrees, to me coconut palms are prett y much the ultimate symbol of the tropics. They represent sunshine and warm water, featuring prominently in our midwinter dreams, not to mention midwinter vacation brochures. They hold up our hammocks and contain our piña coladas. Their gently swaying fronds offer an escape from freezing temperatures and endless drizzle. And, of all things, they help make Nanaimo bars so tasty. But there’s more to the coconut palm than the shivery dreams of northerners. In places where the trees actually grow, people take them very seriously. You and some coconut trees could live for quite some time while stranded on that mythical island. Coconut palms provide just about everything a person needs as far as food, water and shelter goes. Locals don’t call them things like the “tree of life” or the “tree of a thousand uses” for nothing. I have paddled past coconut palms in the Caribbean, Atlantic and Pacific, and stood in their shade on large continents and small atolls. I have lived amongst them for months at a time, joyously soaking up their ambiance, shade and offerings of food and water. Despite their largesse, living under a tree with hardened fruit that can weigh over two kilograms and be precariously suspended over 60 feet above your head is not without risks. Twice in my life, large coconuts have come slamming to earth with

The author in Fiji with one of the coconuts that nearly killed him (Bryan is on the right). 52

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

A group readies for some kayak sailing under the cover of coconut palms – an image tropical dreams are made of.

This symbol of the tropics provides more than just shade – but watch where you string your hammock! skull-crushing force just a few feet away. Be careful where you string that hammock! Nutt y Natural History The coconut is the fruit of a coconut palm tree, Cocos nucifera. There are plenty of other types of palm trees, but none have fruit quite like a coconut. There’s apparently a Portuguese boogeyman called the coco, which is something like ghost or witch with a pumpkin head. Those three dots which give the huskless coconut its “face” apparently reminded Portuguese sailors of the spook from their childhood, and so the coco-nut got its name. Coconut palms have shallow roots and large green fronds at the top of their smooth trunks, some varieties of which can grow close to 100 feet tall. There’s quite a bit of biological and historical controversy about where the coconut palm originated and how it managed to spread all over the world. The trees are now considered OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

pan-tropical, meaning they can be found just about anywhere in the tropics. Stretching back into prehistory, people undoubtedly brought coconuts with them as they colonized most of the world’s islands. Even without the help, coconuts themselves, which are big old seeds after all, can drift considerable distances and still take root. Coconut palms need moisture, so you don’t normally fi nd them in dry areas without irrigation. Still, they are symbolic of the tropics in part because you might fi nd one on any coastline between Cancer and Capricorn. So what are some ways you can really appreciate the glory of a coconut palm? We’re not talking a trip to the baking section of your local grocery store here; this list is for those who love to paddle. You’ll need to take a trip to somewhere where coconut palms grow tall and proud. You know you want to.

The coconut Shade: One of the fi rst things that kayakers appreciate about coconut palms is shade. These trees love sandy soil, and don’t mind a bit it if it’s salty, so they grow right next to oceans throughout the tropics, often leaning right out over the sea in protected waters. There’s nothing like pulling up to a beautiful, secluded beach and ducking out of that tropical sun into the shade of a coconut tree. It’s generally not a big patch of shade, but it does the trick. Try to fi nd a spot that’s in the shade but not directly under the coconuts. Water: Coconut water, which is sweet and plentiful when slurped out of green (unripe) coconuts, is hard to describe in print. Suffice it to say that it’s tasty, it’s nutritious, it’s safe to drink and there are plenty of folk that will swear by its medicinal properties. Coconut water is fat-free and helps replenish your minerals. Having said all that, it’s not especially easy to get a green coconut down from a tall tree and hack it open without spilling the water, but depending on where you are, you can give it a try yourself or buy it cheap from locals with machetes and straws. Food: Coconut meat is interesting stuff . In a green coconut, the white stuff inside is thin and almost jelly like – not to most people’s taste. In a ripe coconut the meat is fi rm and tasty, perhaps because it’s fatt y. Saturated fatt y. Scientists are still quibbling about whether or not that saturated fat is good or bad for you, but it’s nutritious enough, and some fresh coconut meat on your vacation isn’t going to make much of a difference either way, so give it a try. In the meantime, the meat, especially when made into “coconut cream,” is a fantastic ingredient in everything from rice to curry and flan. Mixed drinks: The coconut features prominently in vacation drinks of the sociable nature, particularly in conjunction with that Caribbean standby, rum (which comes from sugar cane, not coconuts). The pina colada is the classic, but if you need a tropical pickme-up, look into the coquito (similar to egg nog, from Puerto Rico), Acapulco Dream (with tequila of course) and the variable but irresistibly named Coco Loco. Coconut, especially coconut cream, makes a drink very warm and tropical tasting. Survival: Coconut palms really can help you out in a tropical pinch. In addition to providing nutritional food and drink, dead palm fronds and coconut husks can be used for

fi res, and many people swear by the medicinal properties of coconut oil and water. If you’re looking for land, coconut palms are a lot easier to see than low-lying mangroves or coral atolls, and opening up a coconut can be a fascinating exercise in skill, persistence and strength. Oil up: Much of that white coconut meat is fat, and much of it is processed by drying to get the oil out. That tasty and very useful oil makes its way into things like curries, skin

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

lotion, and even some diesel generators. Let’s see – a coconut oil spa treatment, a delicious green seafood curry, and then a romantic interlude by the light of a coconut oil lamp. With some coconut massage oil. Now that’s escaping winter! Bryan Nichols is a science writer, biologist, educator and beer aficionado currently living near palm trees in Tampa, Florida.

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

53

Skillset

by Alex Matthews

Improve your skills in a sweep N

OTHING will help move your paddling skills to the next level like a dependable roll. Not only is a strong roll the ultimate self-rescue technique (what else gets a paddler back upright faster?), it will also greatly boost your confidence to try new strokes, or paddle in more challenging conditions like surf or current. Although the ability to roll certainly isn’t a prerequisite to enjoy kayaking, a dependable roll will transform your paddling experience. And just to dispel a few myths – a successful roll depends on good technique, not on power or great athleticism, so any reasonably fit paddler with the desire, and dedication to practice, can learn to roll. The Sweep Roll There are many different ways to roll. The sweep roll is one of the most popular because it is fast, effective and relatively easy to learn. To set up for the sweep roll (while upsidedown), lean well forward from the waist so that your chest is on your fore deck, and your paddle is held parallel to the boat. From this setup position, once upside down, sweep the power face of your forward blade out to the side, arcing toward the stern, with your back arm acting as the pivot point. To keep your blade from sinking as you sweep, maintain a sculling, or “climbing” angle on the blade. Cocking your wrist forward will provide the desired angle to your blade so that its leading edge is slightly higher than the trailing edge, creating lift . Stretch your body out to the side as you sweep, following your blade with your head. As you sweep your forward blade out to 90 degrees, use the support from the paddle to keep your body floating close to the water’s surface, and “hip snap” your kayak upright, keeping your head in the water. Hip snap by driving your lower knee skyward. The hip snap, also known as the “hip fl ick,” is the single most important step in a reliable roll, and refers to the action of rotating your hips to right your kayak. By staying flexible at your hips, you can use your knee to actively roll your hips and your kayak back upright, while your body and head remain in the water.

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The Sweep Roll essential step to completing 4 Tha rolle fiisnalkeeping your head down throughout, allowing your hip snap to roll the kayak almost completely upright before the rest of your body follows. Once you’ve hip

snapped your boat upright, swing your body back over top of your kayak. Th ink in terms of a supple movement drawing each vertebra back upright starting at the base of your spine and flowing all the way up to your neck, with

your head coming up last. Finishing lying backward is a common approach, and is the most reliable for beginners as it keeps your center of gravity as low as possible, and thus yields the greatest success rate.

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Health and nutrition

by Bruce Bernett

Old wisdom: food as medicine J

ONATHAN HANSON'S excellent book, Complete Sea Kayak Touring (Ragged Mountain Press, 1998) includes a valuable chapter on provisioning your kayak with nutritious, high-energy food. However, for overall health, vigor and injury prevention, it's even more important for kayakers and other active people to be diligent about their everyday diet. Twenty-four hundred years ago, Hippocrates, the father of medicine, wrote, “Let food be your medicine and medicine be your food.” What was true 2,400 years ago is even truer today with the typical North American diet – high in processed and fast foods full of sugars and trans fats that contaminate our bodies. One anarchistsounding rogue from this diet is named “free radicals.” These are the leading villains in the aging process and a major cause of tissue injury in athletes. A free radical is an atom with an unpaired electron. Like an overly aggressive suitor seeking a mate, a free radical waltzes through your body, grabbing electrons from cellular tissue and wreaking havoc like a philandering home-wrecker. Each free radical may exist for only a tiny fraction of a second, but the damage it leaves behind can be irreversible. Although some free radical activity is vital for immune function and hormone and enzyme production, too many will accelerate the

Free radicals are best on a campus; in your body your diet can help cleanse these and other nasty rascals

aging process, suppress the immune system and be a major factor in age-related diseases such as cancer, heart disease and arthritis. The formation of free radicals stimulates the development of even more free radicals, snowballing their production and damaging genetic material. Bad habits like smoking and eating fast food generate free radicals, but so do good habits like kayaking, hiking or indeed any metabolic activity, due to increased oxygen consumption. To counter free radicals, you need lots of antioxidants in your diet. Fruits, vegetables and even herbs – especially herbs in the oregano

family – are excellent dietary sources of antioxidants and should be an integral part of every energetic person’s regimen. Another common herb that alleviates pain and inflammation from athletic injury is ginger. According to Michelle Schoff ro Cook, a doctor of natural medicine, in her book Healing Injuries the Natural Way, ginger blocks the formation of prostaglandins and leukotrienes, two substances that cause inflammation. Dr. Cook also claims that ginger has antioxidant properties that actually break down inflammation and acidity in the synovial fluid of joints. I would also recommend supplementing your diet with antioxidant vitamins and minerals, especially vitamins C and E and the minerals zinc and selenium. When shopping for vitamin E, select a natural, not synthetic, version and preferably one with mixed tocopherols. Antioxidants gobble up free radicals like voracious piranha fish. They neutralize them by binding to their free electrons. Kayakers and hikers should also ensure

Anti-oxidant-rich polenta with oregano Ingredients: • 3 cups of spring or bott led water • 1 cup of milk (or substitute such as nut milk – I do not recommend soy milk) • 1 Tbsp. of butter • 1 tsp. of sea salt • Pinch of cayenne pepper • 1 clove of garlic, minced • 1 cup of polenta • ½ red pepper, very fi nely diced • ½ orange pepper, very fi nely diced • ¼ cup of fi nely chopped broccoli, lightly steamed 56

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½ cup of freshly grated Romano or parmesan cheese 1½ Tbsp. of fresh oregano, fi nely chopped.

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

Preparation: Bring the milk, water, butter, salt, cayenne and garlic to a boil in a pot and slowly add the polenta in a slow stream, stirring continually. Reduce the heat to a simmer and continue to stir until the moisture is absorbed and the mixture has a creamy consistency, about eight to 10 minutes. Add the vegetables and cheese and continue to cook and stir for another couple of minutes. Then thoroughly blend the oregano into the mix. When it is evenly distributed, pour the polenta into a glass pie plate and allow to cool. It may be served cool or re-heated. Cut into wedges prior to serving.

Food as medicine they have adequate omega-3 essential fatt y acid in their diet. One of the best omega-3 supplements for joints is fish oil, which is rich in eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Both fight jointdamaging enzymes called collagenases and reduce inflammation (often caused by free radicals). As a result, fish oil is a great supplement for reducing joint and tendon pain and preventing wear and tear. That’s why eating fish at least twice per week – especially oily, coldwater varieties like salmon, herring, mackerel, anchovies and tuna – or taking fish oil capsules is recommended. Fish oil has also proven helpful for overuse injuries. For the past several years, the Danish Olympic rowing team has given its athletes fish oil along with gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), an omega-6 plant oil that acts like an omega-3, to help them quickly recover from inflammation. They use about 600 mg each of omega-3 fish oils and GLA daily. Vegetarians can use flaxseed oil as a source of omega-3, but EPA and DHA are about 11 times more potent than the alphalinolenic acid (ALA) from flaxseed oil. Other important supplements for the healing and prevention of athletic injuries include glucosamine sulfate, chondroitin and MSM (methylsulfonylmethane). Glucosamine and chondroitin help rebuild and lubricate cartilage and connective tissue. Because your body can only make glucosamine slowly, and your ability to make it at all atrophies with age, taking it as a supplement effectively speeds the healing of your joints after exercise. Studies have even shown glucosamine and chondroitin to be effective against arthritis in clinical sett ings, making these supplements fi rst-line treatments for most people with joint complaints. MSM, an organic sulfur, is used by the body to make important enzymes, antibodies and connective tissue. It is found in vegetables, meat, eggs, poultry and dairy foods, but it is difficult to get enough MSM through food as it is often destroyed through processing. All wise athletes know the wisdom of the RICE procedure for soft tissue injuries: rest, ice, compression and elevation. But healthy food and nutritional supplementation have vital roles to play. As the ancient Chinese proverb says, “He that takes medicine and neglects diet, wastes the skill of the physician.”

Bruce Burnett is a Ladysmith, B.C.-based hiker and kayaker. Bruce is also a chartered herbalist, an award-winning writer and author of the best-selling

book HerbWise: growing cooking wellbeing. Contact Bruce through his website at www.herbwiseproducts.com.

Sardinia, Italy ©Wendy Killoran

OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2008

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Book Reviews

by John Kimantas

Dreaming in Nuchatlitz By David Barnes Trafford Publishing, 2008 ISBN 978-1-4251-7211-4 www.trafford.com

One line from the introduction to Dreaming in Nuchatlitz won me over: “Far away from where I live, I am home.” Dreaming in Nuchatlitz chronicles the paddling journeys of David Barnes and three male buddies to the outer shores of Nootka Sound. It is not a particularly remarkable journey, and it’s not for everyone. Consider some bad behavior such as drinking, smoking pot and playful guy antics that include creating pagan gods, and some readers are likely to be turned off . Th is is no epic journey to Siberia, either. However, insights from the journey are thoughtful and well-written, making this a good companion for anyone who has traveled to Nuchatlitz or is planning on going.

Alone Against the Arctic By Anthony Dalton Heritage House ISBN 978-1-894974-33-2 www.heritagehouse.ca

If you know the Arctic is a dangerous place, why go? Anthony Dalton asks himself that in the introduction to Alone Against the Arctic, and reaches the inescapable answer that has lured explorers here for hundreds of years: glory, adventure, fortune or – as likely – because the visitor is a misfit. Dalton is selfconfessed as the latter as he takes a near-fatal trip in a small boat along the northwest coast of Alaska in 1984. His experiences follow the route of other historic journeys, particularly the journey of the U.S. cutter Bear in its rescue attempt of eight whaling ships in 1897, and Dalton writes about both the fi rst-person and historic perspectives as he recounts his experience in gripping and sobering detail. For adventure fans building a library, Dalton’s experiences will have a place.

The Explorer’s Guide to Algonquin Park By Michael Runtz Boston Mills Press, 2008 ISBN 978-1-55046-498-6

My fi rst-ever camping trip was in Ontario’s Algonquin Park, and as we boated through a series of lakes and channels I knew I was only scratching the surface of this magnificent location. So it is wonderful to see the park laid out so completely in detailed maps, colorful photography and useful tips. 62

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

Particularly inspiring is the exceptional wildlife photography, mixed with useful information on viewing opportunities and habits. The result is a valuable resource for anyone thinking of visiting the park or interested in exceptional works about exceptional places.

Fatal Tide By David Leach Penguin Books ISBN 978-0-670-06629-2

Few sports besides perhaps mountain climbing search as inwardly as kayaking when disaster strikes. And disaster did strike on June 1, 2002 when Rene Arsenault and another dozen competitors set out on the dangerous Bay of Fundy for a day of adventure. By the end of the day Arsenault was dead. David Leach chronicles this misadventure of adrenaline, machoism and poor risk assessment that defi ned this adventure race, and he does it through painstaking research and detail. Th is work should no doubt be a bible for the adventure racing community on what not to do. Other technical-minded readers will perhaps fi nd it a grim insight into the mindset of adventure racers, and may even learn a thing about proper assessment of conditions. Not to the level of reading of Into Thin Air, it is certainly a case of history being doomed to repeat itself, as in 2007 two more deaths hit the West Coast adventure racing community through a tragically poorly planned outing in Howe Sound. While I am no fan of dissecting disaster – even magazine articles on kayaking tragedies tend to peer too deeply into what is ultimately just poor risk assessment – apparently the lesson unlearned does need to be stressed.

Albatross Their World, Their Ways By Tui De Roy, Mark Jones and Julian Fitter Firefly Books ISBN 978-1-55407-415-0

Some wildlife books you will want to take into the field. Others will take up a special place of note in your library. Albatross: Their World, Their Ways is clearly the latter. With its oversize pages and hard cover it isn’t to be used for casual reference. Plus the many writers and photographers go well beyond simple behavioral notes to write what is tantamount to an albatross thesis. Expect topics such as “Applying Spatially-explicit measures for Albatross Conservation” and “Albatross Flight Performance and Energetics.” Too scientific? No worries. The publishers tempered the technical writing with the obvious solution: pages and pages of breathtaking photography. Bird lovers who think their library is complete, think again. You’ve never encountered the albatross quite this up-close and personal before.

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