Wavelength Kayaking Magazine: Fall 2009

WaveLength Your complete kayaking and coastal exploration resource

Volume 19, Issue 4

Fall 2009

FREE at select outlets or by subscription

Kayaking & yoga

MAGAZINE

Extending summer Who says the paddling season ends on Labor Day? We're putting that myth to rest

PM 41687515

A few stretches that will do wonders for your paddling

Plus: • Delta 16 review • The ecology of kelp • Cold weather gear

Nuchatlitz An intimate look at one of BC's great kayaking parks

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Contents

This month's features:

Regular columns:

8

For the love of Nuchatlitz



Great Parks

26

New Gear

12

Just Go

28

Kayak Review



Delta 16

30

Skillset



by Alex Matthews

32

Ecology



by Neil Schulman

36

Planning & Safety



by Michael Pardy

38

Paddle Meals



by Hilary Masson

39

Rainforest Chronicles



by Dan Lewis

40

Day Trips



by Erik Schorr



Antarctica



Sandra Lucas

18

In search of weather windows



Extending Summer

20

Gearing up for the cold



Extending Summer

22

12

Destination Cortes Extending Summer



by John Kimantas

34

Yoga for kayakers



8

34

Health and Fitness



by April Link

42

Getting to know Nanaimo



Travel Destinations

Friends don’t let friends

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Wavelength Magazine

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The First Word

by John Kimantas

WaveLength All skills starts somewhere magazine

Fall 2009

Volume 19, Number 4 PM No. 41687515



Editor John Kimantas [email protected] Copy Editing Darrell Bellaart Writing not otherwise credited is by WL staff. Cover Photo: 

Nuchatlitz at sunset John Kimantas

Safe paddling is an individual responsibility. We recommend that inexperienced paddlers seek expert instruction and advice about local conditions, have all the required gear and know how to use it. The publishers of this magazine and its contributors are not responsible for how the information in these pages is used by others. Wavelength is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops, outdoor stores, fitness clubs, marinas, events, etc.), and globally on the web. Also available by subscription. Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome. Download back issues and articles online at www.wavelengthmagazine.com



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Wild Coast Publishing #6 10 Commercial St. Nanaimo, B.C., Canada, V9R 5G2 Ph: 1-866-984-6437 • Fax: 1-866-654-1937 Email: [email protected] Website: www.wavelengthmagazine.com © 2009. Copyright is retained on all material (text, photos and graphics) in this magazine. No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form, print or electronic, for any purpose, except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing. Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2008, courtesy of the Atlas of Canada. Also, our thanks to Geobase for some elements that may appear on Wavelength maps.

I was at a gathering of my partner's family at the waterfront near Ladysmith on Vancouver Island when a group of a half-dozen kayakers launched from the same beach. I chatted with one of the members of the group that was putting out in little runabout kayaks, and found out it was her first time going out in her new kayak. It was a great day to be on the water. While we picnicked on the beach we watched the group of kayakers paddle out into the bay. And stay there. The group might not have paddled more than a half mile in total over the course of several hours. If that. They milled around a bit and floated. Every so often one of the group would paddle a few strokes, then put down the paddle again and drift. We waited for them to get assembled and started. They never did. The start was pretty much just like the middle and the end. This was their trip. I know many kayakers would scoff at that sort of an outing. If miles aren't traveled, if remote destinations aren't visited, if skills aren't utilized, well, it's just not a true kayaker's trip. But consider: all those kayakers will return to work on Monday and regale coworkers with the tale of their kayaking outing, how beautiful and peaceful it was, how wonderful it was to be out on the water and how enjoyable the event. Coworkers will likely be impressed and possibly even jealous. It might even fuel new interest. We all start somewhere in this sport, and it begins with an appreciation of the intensity of our relationship with the water when kayaking. This is instant and almost universal (at least among those who fall in love with kayaking). Beyond that, people tend to go in different directions. Some will never paddle much farther than a bay. But they may do so with a purpose – intertidal explorations, fishing or photography, for instance. Some might fall in love with paddling as a means of transportation, and explore ever farther afield in long-distance explorations or to remote locations around the world (I fall into this category). Others will fall in love with paddling as a science or as an art (take your pick), and work on rolling, surfing and strokes. They may seek out fast water, rough conditions or travel to Greenland for skill competitions. The bottom line is it doesn't matter. There is an element in kayaking, as there is in any form of recreation, to take it to the limit. The danger lies in making it elitist by making it exclusive rather than inclusive by nature. This may be one reason that some of the paddlefests I've attended recently seem to be falling short of what should be a key goal: attracting new participants. A gathering of experts rolling in specialty kayaks doesn't tend to welcome entry-level participants and tire-kickers. One look at all the pros in head-to-foot Gore-Tex and an outsider may will think "this isn't for me" and head home. In other words, we should be unofficial ambassadors of the sport, offering a welcoming spirit to everyone, no matter the level of skill or interest. So if you feel yourself becoming elitist, putting value in what others can't or won't do simply because they can't or won't do it, step back. Remember this is about an enjoyment of a paddle on the water. Nothing more. And we can all share in the love of that at any level.  - John Kimantas

Outer Vargas Island, Clayoquot Sound 4

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News

Johnson closes Necky's Ferndale plant Johson Outdoors, parent company of Necky Kayaks, has announced it will close its Ferndale plant and centralize its paddlesports operations in Old Town, Maine. The relocation will cost 90 jobs in Ferndale, but eventually mean 48 new jobs in Old Town. Johnson is one of the largest paddlesports businesses in the U.S., but has recently suffered heavy operating losses. Its brands include Necky, Ocean Kayaks, Lendal, Carlisle and Extrasport.

Marine trail for Alaska? Prince William Sound in Alaska may soon be home to a marine trail. The concept of a 300-mile water trail is being proposed between Chenega, Cordova, Tatitlek, Valdez and Whittier. A concept paper is the main progress so far – a nonprofit group to steward the project has yet to be formed. The concept paper can be viewed at www.kck.org/pws-trail.pdf.

Boreal adds to product line BorealDesign has added to its range of offerings, first with an agreement to produce two models of kayaks originally designed and marketed by Maelströmkayak, the Vaåg 174 and Vitäl 166. BorealDesign has also acquired Beluga Outdoor Gear effective Oct. 1. Beluga produces a wide range of camping, canoeing and carrying products, from tarps to tow ropes.

Island attempt ends early Nick Castro's hope to beat Sean Morley's circumnavigation record for paddling around Vancouver Island will have to wait. Castro had to end his attempt on the third day after tendonitis set in. The next official attempt will be by Joe O'Blenis, who will try to regain his record after Morley surpassed it in October 2008. Joe O'Blenis set the solo record of 23 days, 10 hours in 2007. Sean Morley

fall 2009

smashed that with his circumnavigation of 17 days, 4 hours and 49 minutes. O'Blenis is aiming to retake his title this September or June, 2010.

Remote park changes name A First Nations touch has been added to a remote Vancouver Island park. Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park has been renamed Muqin/Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park for the Che:k'tles7et'h' First Nation. Muqin means "queen" in Nuu-chahnulth. The renaming stems from the recently enacted Maa-nulth Treaty, of which the Che:k'tles7et'h' was a participant.

Tell us about yourself Wavelength Magazine is conducting a readership survey and needs your input. You can fill out the survey online at www. wavelengthmagazine.com/survey.html. By filling out the survey you can enter to win a Cobra waterproof VHF marine radio.

Wavelength Magazine

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News

Albatross-saving journey gains energy South Georgia is an important breeding island for species including penguins, petrels and four species of albatross. For years, Hayley Shepherd has arrived by Russian ship, leading adventurous groups from all around the world to Antarctica and South Georgia, to admire this island and the animals that dwell here. However, her close contact has made her aware of the perils these creatures face as their breeding colonies thin out and the skies empty due to illegal fishing and poor techniques used in the long line fishing industry. International Seabird Conservation organizations are joining together to raise funds to implement research to alter fishing techniques to reduce seabird by-catch, and Shepherd's plan to attempt the first solo sea kayak circumnavigation of South Georgia Island in aid of the albatross in January fell apart at the last minute when financial support was withdrawn by a key sponsor. That setback failed to cancel the trip; just

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delay it – with some advantages. "Having my mind set on departing and feeling physically and mentally prepared, I was overwhelmed with disappointment; however, I soon began to see the benefits gained from this extra time," Shepherd says. The benefits: she has recently partnered with a non-profit organization Wild Places Fund, allowing her to issue tax receipts to donors. She has also been working hard at boating, outdoor and kayaking festivals and speaking engagements to make information available to the public.

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Also in the works is a book contract and magazine writing. (Shepherd has been a regular Wavelength contributor; you can read about her experiences in our back issues available online; simply search "Hayley" at www.wavelengthmagazine.com for a list of her articles.) You can get a list of her upcoming speaking engagements on her blog at www.hayleyshephard.blogspot.com

The blackbrowed albatross, one of 19 varieties of albatross at risk.

.com

kayakutopia

Our fall sale of kayaks will be posted on our website by mid August . www.kayakutopia.com

Comox Valley Kayaks on Vancouver Island

1-888-545-5595 Sales -Rentals - Instruction - Day Tours - Info Station FALL 2009

Wavelength Magazine

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Great Parks

by John Kimantas

Off Rosa Island.

Nuchatlitz For the love of

N

uchatlitz is one of the places that tends to stay with you long after your visit. Even speeding around Vancouver Island, concentrating on little else but making good time, this tiny provincial park off the northwest tip of Nootka Island can draw you in. Sean Morley knows this well from his circumnavigation speed record around Vancouver Island in 2008. "I camped on Catala Island on the north side of Esperanza Inlet. It was my most idyllic camp of the whole trip," Morley recalls. "The following morning I watched the sunrise over Nootka Island as I crossed Gillam Channel and paddled past Nuchatlitz Provincial Park. If I had to choose one area that I caught a glimpse of during my circumnavigation of the outer coast of Vancouver Island that I know I must return to, this is it. I was sad to be ‘racing’ past such magnificent scenery and resolved to return to this very special place and spend some time getting to know it." 8

Wavelength Magazine

For those who do manage to spend time here, the attraction tends not to fade. For Brian and Shannon Bailey, a serendipitous plane landing 35 years ago set the stage for a three-decade love affair with Nuchatlitz. Brian was a mill office manager at Zeballos on a visit to Nuchatlitz in 1974 when a floatplane landed nearby. Out stepped a man with a group interested in buying an island located in the middle of the then-future provincial park. As luck would have it, the group needed one more shareholder to make it work. Brian immediately said to count him in. About a decade ago they made the unusual decision to live on their island paradise full-time. They share the area with just one other off-season resident, a retired oyster farmer. This makes the couple among the most knowledgeable of the area, particularly on the off-season conditions. Shannon assures us it's not as remote and inhospitable as it might sound. "Each month is quite unique. November

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and December are usually the worst for heavy rain. January can be nasty, but February can be quite beautiful," she says. "We just love it. It's so beautiful a place. Even winter can be quite nice." The couple keeps busy in the offseason cutting firewood, making repairs, beachcombing and reading – lots of reading, of course – plus hosting gatherings at events such as Thanksgiving, Christmas and Easter, to keep the social aspect alive. A hot tub makes the situation much more pleasant. Shannon fondly remembers one evening spent watching a comet race brightly across the sky. Plus the winter's lower tides it gives a chance to walk to the outer islands and explore remote areas. "There are lots of places to experience. We never tire of going back to our favorite places. There's always something new to see," Shannon says.

N

uchatlitz was made a provincial park in 1996. It protects

Nuchatlitz

Campsite on Wy-ash.

most of the islands off the northwest coast of Nootka Island plus a fair portion of Nookta Island north of Nuchatlitz Inlet. It makes ideal paddling because it is relatively sheltered, offering a great mix of island hopping and potential outer shore exploration (conditions willing).

Nearby attractions add to the appeal, of course. Nuchatlitz Inlet features caves and other camping areas, while nearby Catala Island has its own share of interesting shorefront plus more camping. Then there's the outer coast of Vancouver Island just north of Catala –

FALL 2009

exposed and potentially dangerous, but on the right days an incredible place to explore. Brent Blackman was one of the BC Parks employees first tasked with visiting the park after it was created in 1996. He's now the Nootka area supervisor for BC Parks. u

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Great Parks

Beachcombing, with Nootka Island in the background, along with what we found: a sea otter skull (below).

Port Eliza

Espinosa Inlet Esperanza Inlet

Catala Island Provincial Park

Rosa I. 40

NUCHATLITZ 44 PROVINCIAL PARK

Private island

Ensanada It.

"We did a lot of field assessment in the early days," he says. "It's one of my favorites up there – within the top three in what I've seen on Vancouver Island." Shallow, sandy intertidal areas rich in eelgrass beds make it attractive to a wide range of wildlife, with sea otters a star attraction since their reintroduction to the area back in the 1970s. Most of the islands in the park are unnamed, with two key camping islands generally referred to by the elevation 10

Wavelength Magazine

markers on Hydrographic Service charts – islands 44 immediately west of the First Nations reserve and island 40 to the outside. Cristina Lepore at Zeballos Expeditions tells us the traditional names: Wy-ash for island 44 and Chuish for the outer of the pair. The names are just one historical link. Others, such a bighouse imprints, remain as reminders, but not all vestiges are necessarily pleasant. For instance, some burial caves in the region were known as trophy caves – places to dispose of enemy tribes and even the occasional unfortunate Caucasian. During a recent visit fresh cougar prints were evident around Wy-ash. We found two skeletons that at first blush appeared to be young cougars. A later investigation found them to be sea otters – nasty looking canines for such a cute and cuddly creature! But no doubt a necessary part of a diet that includes seemingly endless sea urchins. The cougar tracks were no surprise to Shannon, who says a cougar nests on Chuish each winter, but disappears by the time the summer crowds arrive. FALl 2009

O

ne obvious attraction to Nuchatlitz is the relative ease to get here. A road passing through Zeballos will lead to a bridge across the tidal rapids at Little Espinosa Inlet. From there you can avoid the rapids and enter this otherwise sheltered passage to connect to Espinosa Inlet. From there it's about 20 km almost due south, eventually to cross Esperanza Inlet to reach the park entrance. Camping is possible anywhere within the park, with a main campsite on Rosa Island and beach camping on a few others. The numerous reefs that surround the islands and the kelp beds tend to eliminate the swell found along the outer waters. But breaking waves on rocks can be a hazard, particularly for those leaving the park and unaware of the transition. In 2003 two kayakers, Andrew Camp and Blake Rawlyk, went missing on a day forecast with high winds after camping at Nuchatlitz. Their bodies and smashed kayaks were eventually found near Ensanada Islet. It will never be known what occurred, but it's a reminder to respect the conditions here.

Nuchatlitz

Join us for our 22nd year!

Contemplating this driftlog’s resting place.

KAYAKING IN PARADISE: Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula

Remote rainforest paddling, lodge-based. Corcovado National Park visits. Calm seas and estuary rivers. Cloud forest birding tours. Small groups (6 or less). Weekly departures Dec–April. Plus year-round kayaking at Galiano Island in BC’s beautiful Gulf Islands.

250-539-2442 www.seakayak.ca [email protected]

If you go: The prime launch site is Little Espinosa Inlet west of Zeballos. Limited services including food and accommodation can be found in Zeballos, about a five-hour drive north of the Vancouver Island ferry at Nanaimo, with the final leg along dirt logging road. The first campsite in Nuchatlitz is about 20 km from the launch. Water taxis are available from Tahsis and Zeballos. Other attractions include Catala Provincial Park and the Nootka Trail along the outer coast of Nootka Island. Cabin accommodation is available in Nuchatlitz; see page 25 for details. <

A break along Espinosa Inlet.

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Wavelength Magazine

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Adventure Kayaking

by Sandra Lucas

O

ur black Zodiac, dragging our kayaks behind it, roared across the Southern Ocean, passing the high cliffs that surround one of the outermost islands of the Antarctic peninsula. It’s actually a flooded volcano, leading early discoverers to baptize it Deception Island. The ring-shaped isle is small, about seven miles in diameter, framed with dark, grey-brown mountains. Snow covers the mountain tops and an unsettled, steel-blue sea guards the island’s edges. It’s a cloudy day with just a bit of wind. Through an opening in the ring we enter the island’s bay and arrive on the beach’s pitch black, volcanic sand.

Sandra Lucas solves the dilemma of how to fulfill the dream of kayaking Antarctica:

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The beach is narrow but stretches out far enough to have once held a whaling station. The station, built in 1912, slaughtered 45,000 whales each year in its heyday. In 1969 a volcanic eruption destroyed it, forcing the remaining whalers to abandon the island. Now all that’s left are wooden, collapsed houses and crooked, steel containers covered in rust. Scattered around lie vertebrae and ribs, the remains of the whaling bounty. Penguins, seals and skua, one of Antarctica’s main birds of prey, play among them. After a bit of exploring, our group of kayakers sets out to take our first strokes on sea. The breeze picks up, causing my paddle to catch the wind. The water is cold, with one-and-a-half

Just

GO

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Antarctica

u

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Adventure Kayaking

The ragged and scabrous beauty of Antarctica; inset: kayaks in tow off the Vavilov.

burdened with the task of getting travelers near Antarctica safely. Inside, it’s a maze of carpeted rooms and hallways. As soon as the Vavilov ploughs its way through Drake Passage, where the Atlantic ocean and Pacific ocean combine to form the Southern Ocean, I have my first meeting in the bar with the rest of the paddlers.

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Together we form a small group of eleven men and women with ages ranging from 25 to about 60. After our first trip around Deception Island, we get the chance to paddle through the waters surrounding Enterprise Island. Stretching out for one and a half miles, the island is located at the north end of

fall 2009

Wilhelmina Bay, roughly 150 miles down the peninsula. It’s a crystal clear day. The sun is out, causing the temperature to rise to a comfortable five degrees Celsius (41°F). The bay of the island is surrounded by huge, white glaciers, making it look like a frozen fortress guarded by icy walls with sharp, pointy peaks. Sometimes the white

Antarctica color of the glaciers is replaced by a more translucent blue, which makes the ice look more like pieces of glass or diamond. The blue color of the ice varies from baby blue to azure or denim blue. The seawater in the bay is as placid as a puddle, almost mirrorlike and sprinkled with pieces of floating ice, some as small as a snowball, others as big as six-and-a-half feet forming tiny floating islands. With the sun on my face and fresh air in my lungs, I try to focus on the sound of the chunks of ice bumping against the hard, yellow fiber of my kayak. The hollow, muffled sound echoes through the water. It’s like I’m pushing my kayak through a sea of boulders as the rocks pound and scrape against my boat. Besides the bumping of the ice against my kayak, it’s almost completely silent out here. Sometimes I can hear the sound of a glacier calving as ice slides over ice before the final plunge into the deep sea. We make sure to stay clear from the glacier’s edges and the danger of huge waves. Enterprise Island surprises us with the remains of an old ship, once owned by whalers. Its rusted, copper-brown bow still rises above the water surface and the ship’s deck is covered in a layer of snow. It must have killed hundreds of animals in its heyday. Now it lies in the cold and icy bay while the sea water of Antarctica slowly

Fur seals keep a watchful eye.

breaks the ship down. We take our time paddling around it. Exhausted but satisfied, we return to the Vavilov for a hot shower and a good meal.

W

hen morning comes again, we head out for Cuverville Island, located in the Errera Channel near the Antarctic mainland. Blows of humpback whales have been spotted in the distance and we waste no time getting dressed and ready for departure. The black Zodiac brings us as close to the whales as possible, dragging our kayaks behind. I’m the first one to get into my small kayak and I wait for a fellow kayaker to accompany me before heading out to the whales. Not that someone would have stopped me from going on ahead, but to be honest I feel terrified to paddle among five 65foot humpback whales while sitting in a 15-and-a-half-foot lightweight kayak. The

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first huge dorsal fin appears about 30 feet away and heads straight towards me. I don’t know whether to quickly paddle myself out of there, stay completely still or just burst out in tears of happiness and fear. Lucky for me, my group soon catches up with me. The whale dives under again and I lose sight of it. I try to peer through the deep, midnight blue water, hoping to catch a glimpse of this giant, but my attempt is futile. We paddle a few strokes every now and then to turn and stay near these magnificent creatures, but there’s no need to break a sweat. The whales themselves seem to dance around our kayaks gracefully. With their long bodies they skillfully swim underneath and beside us, sticking heads, fins and tails out of the water without ever touching us. I’m astonished by their agility and their caution. Suddenly, another whale surfaces right beside my kayak. It’s so close, I can almost touch it. Instead, I cry for help! I feel terrified to see this massive body only six feet away from me. The whale calmly dives under again. Its massive back and dorsal fin slide through the water with so much ease. I feel humility and respect coming over me. The whale could have tipped me over or slapped me with its tail. But it didn’t. It just came over to have a closer look at me. After we’ve spent years and years of killing u

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Adventure Kayaking

The author. Photo by Zak Shaw.

whales for their meat, they still seem so friendly and interested in us.

T

he following day, Antarctica shows its wild side as we try to reach the mainland. Heavy winds, accompanied by snow, blow the waves five feet up into the air. As the waves rise up and tip over,

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they lose their dark, midnight blue color and turn steel blue ending in white tips. The icy landscape has lost its enchanting beauty and looks grim underneath the heavy, dark clouds. The temperature drops below zero. In the distance, I can spot the Antarctic mainland. It has pitch black and grey-brown mountains as far as I can see. Their angled peaks look sharp and impassable. Some peaks are more shelved and topped with a thick layer of snow. As the snow is pushed further down the mountain, it slowly transforms into one of Antarctica’s many glaciers. But this time, we’re not heading for the glaciers. We’re heading towards a more suitable place to enter the mainland. We’re paddling like maniacs to get through

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the whirling sea and heavy wind. There’s no time to take a break. The streamlets are so strong they’ll take you back right where you started. All around us, penguins leap out of the water, catching their breath and trying to see where they’re going. Sometimes, one of them looks at me with a surprised face. I feel silly being so slow and clumsy in my unwieldy kayak, especially compared to the dexterity and ease with which the penguins are moving past me. I watch my fellow kayakers, battling beside me, beanies pulled far over their ears and foreheads, hands sticking deep into their paddle gloves, trying to make their way through these ferocious waters. A sense of pride comes over me. Here we are, undiscouraged by heavy winds and snow, paddling across icy waters, aiming to set foot on the continent of Antarctica. Right now I feel truly honored to be a part of this group. As we approach the mainland, slippery black rocks, some covered with a thin layer of snow, are scattered in front of the beach, leaving only a small opening to paddle through and reach the shore. After maneuvering past them, the front tips of

Antarctica

Humpback whales make for intimidating paddling partners.

our kayaks finally touch the salty sands of Antarctica’s shore. I pull open my spray skirt, wiggle out of my kayak and place my foot on the wet sand. As I walk up, I see penguins sitting on the wet rocks casting glances at us. The small beach, maybe 13 feet in width and 33 feet in length, is bordered by a collection of rock, some stone grey, others pitch black. They’re

stacked up, each one covered in more snow as the pile ascends, transforming into the foot of the mountains that frame the beach we’re on. I look up at the high, snowcovered mountain peaks, smelling the salty ocean air and feeling the cold wind brushing across my wet and warm face. Not only is the scenery magnificent, it’s also a great feeling to know you’re setting foot in a place

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where few people have gone before. As we gather to take some pictures, the crew of the Vavilov congratulates us. We’re now officially on the Antarctic continent and we got here by kayak. < Sandra Lucas is a resident of The Netherlands. She can be reached at [email protected].

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Extending Summer Clayoquot Sound, end of September

In search of

Weather windows P

repare all you want for that big summer weekend getaway, but the grand plans will be all for naught if the wrong weather system moves in. You just never know here in the Pacific Northwest/BC. It can rain in August, and the sun can shine in October. Not always, of course, but surprisingly often the season’s prevailing weather simply doesn’t prevail. For those who risk the odds by kayaking in the off-season, the rewards can be substantial. The summer haze disappears, giving wonderful snowclad mountain views when the clouds break. The water is clearer of bacteria, allowing unfettered exploration of the intertidal life. And the boat traffic and competition for campsites disappears. You just have to pick and choose your moments – that is, you have to find a weather window and run with it. Anne McCarthy, a weather service specialist for Environment Canada, puts it this way: "It's not the highway traffic that's going to get you. It's that one big Mack truck," she says. "The average number of storms don't swamp you – it's the individual storm fronts that swamp you." So while it might be helpful in longrange trip planning to know that Tofino, for instance, gets just 10 to 11 days with rain on average per month in July and August, and 22 days with some rain in November, that doesn't guarantee anything. Especially if

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The kayaking season doesn't have to end after Labor Day. Just be more cautious. you were kayaking on Aug. 26, 1975, when a record 131.3 mm (5.16 inches) of rain fell in what should have been the dry season.

B

ut things do change over the course of the year in the Pacific Northwest and BC. Essentially during the summer a high pressure system builds off California, which pushes the coastal storm fronts north – good for us, but not necessarily so for the Gulf of Alaska, which can see considerable storm activity even in the summer. Later in the year the high pressure system off California will weaken, and the tussle begins as the storm fronts fight to move back down the coast toward central British Columbia while the warm air continues to try to push it north. "Think of it like sumu wrestling but on a much larger scale," McCarthy says. What can hit the coast are two types of systems. One is the Gulf of Alaska lows, which are large-scale and can drag frontal systems down the coast. But particularly troublesome are the FALl 2009

smaller systems known as coastal lows that can "bomb" – that is, drop from a low pressure system to a quite severe storm in a relatively short period of time (as little as nine hours, McCarthy says). This is of particular concern to kayakers, since it can bring intense winds. This makes it one of the key reasons that careful monitoring of weather conditions is always necessary. In addition in winter, tropical moisture can bring extra winds and copious rain. But the changing weather can also bring fog. For instance, Victoria averages one hour of fog (measured as limited visibility) in June and July while November sees close to 20 hours. This won't be anything new to many coastal travelers who see fog throughout the summer along the outer coast. But it can play havoc in more protected areas, particularly south Vancouver Island and Puget Sound. The off-season is at its best when short windows of exceptionally good weather break through. That can mean outbreaks of clear and cold weather, with the potential for snow. But it can also mean relatively

Extending Summer balmy periods when a warm front manages to push up, bringing a bulge of warmer air through the region. These are the day-to-day breaks where you can't plan trips in advance, but you can take advantage of them when they come. The trick is planning for the changes that occur during off-season paddling.

Weather: keep in contact

O

ne of George Gronseth's favorite off-season paddling destinations in Washington State is Skagit Flats. The winter season means migratory birds, often by the tens of thousands. One of his more memorable experiences includes watching an eagle kill a duck in flight. But there's occasionally a surprising physical reminder of how the season has changed. Freshwater runoff into the saltwater can freeze, leaving the ocean frozen over in a layer of ice. As owner of Kayak Academy, Gronseth has learned to take nothing for granted on the water. One crossing of about a half-mile in Desolation Sound many years ago still stands out. The forecast was benign, but in the middle of the crossing a local squall hit, with winds reaching 30 knots in a matter of minutes. "No one capsized but it was a very eyeopening experience," he says. Winds are just one of the many changes to watch in off-season paddling. While winds can hit any time of year, they tend to be more unpredictable off-season and potentially stronger. "Things can go from calm to windy faster than they typically do in summertime, and if you're going to get stormy weather there's a higher chance of getting really strong winds," Gronseth says.

There are also more insidious aspects to wind. For instance, it becomes harder to turn a kayak, which can create a horde of unexpected outcomes. One, of course, is the kayak's tendency to turn sideways to the wind. Weaker or novice kayakers may find they don't have the skill to turn back into the desired direction. Another danger is a group separating. Gronseth says he has seen two outcomes: some who are nervous will speed up, while others who are nervous will slow down. When strong paddlers speed up and away from less strong paddlers, it can turn particularly dire. "Because they're strong doesn't mean they're brave enough to turn back," Gronseth says. "They may be thinking, 'If I turn around I'll capsize, so I'll just keep

FALL 2009

going and hope everyone else is okay.'" The answer to wind concerns is proper trip planning – particularly careful attention to forecasts and updates. Also, plan shorter crossings, stay to more protected waters and generally plan shorter trips. Shorter days are another factor. Waiting out wind or currents means a much greater likelihood of paddling into the dark, especially since sundown during the winter can be as early as 5 p.m. Overcast days will mean darkness even more quickly. This means carrying extra equipment. A flashlight is a legal requirement in the U.S. for being on the water after sunset. So is an emergency signal such as a package of rocket flares. Then there's the issue of dropping temperatures – both in the air and on the water. Changing water temperature is less of an issue in the winter on the ocean. Gronseth cites Puget Sound, the San Juans and the Gulf Islands where temperatures may be in the high 50s F in August and early September but the low 50s F in winter – not a dramatic change. But anyone who figures it will be safer to be on fresh water in the winter due to the lower exposure may have to think again. For instance, Lake Washington may warm up into the 70s F during the late summer, but drop to near-freezing in winter. Saltwater areas near large river systems can also be prone to colder temperatures, occasionally forming ice. The answer, of course, is proper immersion gear. And Gronseth measures the need this way: "If the water is colder than you care to swim in, you ought to be wearing some thermal protection."  <

Wavelength Magazine

19

Extending Summer

I

f you've ever thought about off-season paddling, you've probably thought about protective gear. But what to get? A bulky, expensive drysuit? Or will a wetsuit be enough? Or is even that necessary? Will a paddling jacket suffice? Consider what cold water does and how exposed to it you'll be before deciding. Essentials of Sea Survival by Frank Golden and Michael Tipton (2002) rates it this way: ordinary clothes in 12°C/54°F water will provide a survival time of 65 minutes; an insulated drysuit will provide about 15 hours survival time. So what of wetsuits? Well, beware studies citing wetsuit and drysuit comparisons that might pitch a 4.8mm diving wetsuit against a drysuit. Most kayaking wetsuits are much lighter, at 2 to 3 mm of neoprene, trading protection for mobility and comfort. Kayak Academy's George Gronseth did a bit of an experiment with kayaking gear at a New Year's Day coldwater immersion rescue day, getting participants to try and stay in 40°F water for 20 minutes or more. Anyone wearing a wetsuit, even in combination with a drytop, was out of the water in five minutes or less, he says; those with drysuits managed the full 20 minutes. Gronseth lasted 23 minutes in his drysuit. "In 40° water I was still able to get out of the water and get back in my kayak," he says. "Uncomfortable, but not a safety problem." While five minutes is generally ample time to conduct a rescue, if necessary, making a wetsuit adequate, Gronseth points out that the initial rescue is just one consideration. On a warm, sunny day a kayaker might just keep going. But on a cold, wet and rainy day the only way to get warm might be to go to shore, remove all the wet clothing and generally start over again. Compare that with a drysuit, where a kayaker's core remains dry all the time. Another scenario is multiple capsizes – always a possibility in rough weather. Kayakers in wetsuits will face a flush of cold water with each immersion. Drysuit users will avoid that. We asked the folks at Kokatat, designers of kayaking protective gear, what they recommend for two scenarios – one for 20

Wavelength Magazine

The Tectour Anorak paddle paddling jacket and Farmer Jane NeoZip wetsuit (also shown to the right).

Gearing up for the cold moderately cool water conditions and one for diehard cold-weather survival. With input from Gronseth at Kayak Academy this is the two options they created. For moderately cold conditions (This sample is created for a woman) ● Base layer: Farmer Jane NeoZip women's 3mm neoprene wetsuit with relief zipper. ● Top layer: Tectour Anorak paddle top. FALl 2009

While not offering the same protection as a drysuit, this package will provide insulation in the event of immersion suitable for re-entering a kayak. It is also quite inexpensive, with most Farmer Janes available for about $100 or so. The Kokatat Tectour jacket, available in Tropos or Gore-Tex (both breathable and waterproof), offers gasket protection at the wrists but freedom from a gasket at the neck. This gives additional comfort over a drytop while still providing protection from

arms horizontal and are prone to getting a soaking up the sleeve, or worse, down the body as well, should a wave hit. The lack of a neck gasket trades some immersion protection for comfort that can pay dividends when used as a rain jacket. Gronseth says such an anorak can double as a jacket for use around a campsite, meaning a kayaker need take only the one. It’s an option best suited for cooler weather in situations with minimal risk. The relief zipper is optional. For cold conditions (This sample is created for a male) ● Base layer: Polartec liner ● Top layer: Gore-Tex Front Entry Dry Suit with relief zipper and socks.

splashes up the arm – a hazard for kayakers in colder water, who generally sit low with

This is a high-end option, as most drysuits mean a considerable investment, but one that will pay off in the best protection. A key advantage is the built-in socks eliminate the need for ankle gaskets. Keep in mind the drysuit doesn't provide insulation on its own. That's where the Polartec liner comes in. A handy one-piece

FALL 2009

The Front Entry drysuit.

design eliminates the bother of a shirt riding up the back. Drysuit options are a fly for the men's design, and a drop seat or front relief zipper for the women. <

Wavelength Magazine

21

Extending Summer

A perfect spot to overlook Desolation Sound and the Sunshine Coast.

Destination: Cortes T

he timing looked perfect for a break. When the weather forecast shows three suns back to back in April, and on a weekend no less, you grab the opportunity and run. Our choice for an off-season getaway was Cortes Island. With cool temperatures we weren't up for a camping trip, so we opted instead for the safety and security of a base camp. And lucky for us Steve and Carol London at T'ai Li Lodge were happy to open one of their waterfront cabins early. The setting was perfect – a small but picturesque cabin overlooking Desolation Sound. We celebrated our Friday evening arrival sitting on the rocks overlooking the ocean – a deceptively peaceful ocean. The one factor we didn't account for in the forecast was strong winds. Overnight a slight breeze changed to galeforce, and in 22

Wavelength Magazine

When wind keeps you off the water, the right venue makes all the difference the morning we looked out onto whitecaps that precluded any chance of carefree kayaking. That meant Plan B, staying on land, and an exploration of rustic Cortes Island. Cortes is one of the two key islands serviced by BC Ferries in the Discovery Islands (often referred to now as the

FALl 2009

northern Gulf Islands, though the association is purely by political grouping, not geography). Getting here can be half the fun, and travelers should be in that mindframe, considering the amount of ferry travel involved. Visitors from the mainland of BC or Washington State will have to get to Vancouver Island, then take a ferry to Quadra Island from Campbell River, then another ferry from Quadra to Cortes. (The island may well appear significantly closer to the BC mainland than Vancouver Island, but for travel purposes it is much farther away.) The result is the chance to enter one of the most charmingly rustic island communities remaining on the BC coast. Where other coastal islands such as Saltspring have been discovered, and

Base Camping

Whaletown’s post office.

One of the rustic beachfront cabins at T’ai Li Lodge.

subsequently gentrified, Cortes keeps its low-key appeal through a handful of parks, small shops, eateries, coffee shops and quaint village charm. Plus there are the trails. If you can't paddle, hike! Arguably the best trail, and certainly the longest, leaves from mid-island through Klahoose First Nation territory into Ha'thayim Marine Park. We finished the trail with a picnic lunch overlooking Lewis Channel and Redonda Island. A more casual stroll was possible at Smelt Bay Provincial Park on the island's west side. While the wind howled in from the southeast, we strolled the sand in the comfort of the lee. A smattering of shops and a charming bookstore provided another diversion.

Heading home on the ferry with our kayaks on the car, we probably didn’t fool too many. It was a kayaking bust – not one paddle stroke – but in the end it didn’t matter. Good weather in April is worth its weight in gold, even in the wind. < If you go: For ferry schedules, visit bcferries.com. For accommodation, consider these kayak-friendly options: ● T'ai Li Lodge ● Healing Waters Beach Resort ● Solstua West on Rendezvous Island For more information on these resorts, see our Kayak With Comfort feature, page 27: Also: ● Coast Mountain Expeditions

The beach at Smelt Bay Provincial Park.

The Cortes Island library.

St. John the Baptist Church, Whaletown. FALL 2009

Wavelength Magazine

23

Extending Summer

Can a fixed-roof base camp trail be created? Kayaking in British Columbia is going to mature dramatically over the next few years. One key development in its coming of age will be the BC Marine Trail, which is in the process of being created by the BC Marine Trails Network Association. When complete (which may take years), it will create a route of designated camping locations, launch spots and safe havens to assist travel by beachable boats (that is, canoes, kayaks and small motorized craft) from Washington State to Alaska and all points between. Unfortunately the only area where yearround kayaking is truly possible in Canada is the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island. This collection of picture-perfect islands is known for its Mediterranean climate and almost desert-like conditions (note the natural occurrence of cactus in a wider region generally referred to as a rainforest). Unfortunately, short days, cooler weather and unpredictable weather systems in the off-season mean kayaking beyond the

24

Wavelength Magazine

summer months is hit and miss even here. But that doesn't mean it's not possible. In fact, many kayakers have discovered this secret, picking and choosing venues carefully to match the conditions. The benefits? Winter means less haze for better mountain views, clearer water for low-tide observations, more sea life such as sea lions, and – arguably best of all – fewer people. The difficulty is camping. Cold temperatures, shorter days and the risk of changes in weather mean discomfort and potential dangers. So the creative minds at Wavelength Magazine had a brainwave of sorts: what if, parallel to the BC Marine Trail, we have a B&B Marine Trail where kayakers could travel from one fixed-roof accommodation venue to another? Where foul weather could be waited out in ideal conditions and transportation options greatly increased? Kayakers could pick one base camp from the list or travel to any number of different accommodation options, by paddle or car.

FALl 2009

Bouyed with the dream of being able to kayak from Victoria to Nanaimo in comfort year-round, we approached 30 candidate B&Bs, lodges and resorts scattered throughout the Gulf Islands to join the trail. It was not one of our banner marketing campaigns. In fact, it was a doughnut of a failure. Twenty-three of our carefully selected venues chose not to respond. The others who responded tended to do so cautiously. A few were enthusiastic but guarded. After the initial shock of rejection along with the inevitable tears, we decided we will try again for 2010. Hopefully eventually we'll have enough support to launch a mini BC B&B Marine Trail in the spring. In the meantime, if you did want to try some offseason travel, our current menu of kayakfriendly accommodation options is on the opposite page (plus Silva Bay Inn on page 35). And when you visit, don't forget to mention how great a B&B Trail would be!

Base Camping

Explore the BC coast by day, enjoy luxury by night at these resorts that specialize in catering to kayakers

2 West Coast Vancouver Island

Kayak with Comfort 1

2

3

1 Inside Passage

1 Inside Passage Experience Nature in Comfort

Luxurious Waterfront Lodge, Cabins & Platform Tents

• Kayak/Yoga Retreats • Wildlife & Bird Watching • Family & Group Holidays • Clubs • Meetings

RENDEZVOUS ISLAND, BC CANADA

www.solstuawest.com

HEALING WATERS BEACH RETREAT TAKE1.indd 1

10/8/2007 10:59:53 PM

Cortes Island, BC Canada 2 Bedroom Cottages Sandy Beach, Warm Ocean Water Double Kayak Rentals Beachside Wood Fired Hot Tub

Home base for up to 10 kayakers 250-935-6409 www.cortesisland.com/healingwaters [email protected]

Private Island Paradise in Kyuquot. Rustic Elegance on the West Coast of Vancouver Island. Bring your own boat or kayak. Uchuck cruises weekly. Boat Charters & Kayak Transport.

1.888.920.6075 [email protected] www.seaotterlodgebc.com

3 Gulf Islands

Copper Kettle Bed & Breakfast 465 Stewart Ave Nanaimo, BC V9S 4C7 250-740-3977 1-877-740-3977

~ Traditional, cozy, English-style accommodation. ~ Delectable breakfast, queen beds, shower ensuite. ~ Great paddling possibilities: we are one block from sea front where you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour. Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk, swim or picnic. ~ Close to downtown Nanaimo ~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay.

www.copperkettlebc.com

FALL 2009

Wavelength Magazine

25

New Gear

C-Tug This Kiwi contraption is likely to change the shape of kayak transport now it is being distributed in Canada through C-Tug Canada. The C-Tug has the advantage of being able to be dismantled or put together in seconds without the need for tools, then stowed easily in a kayak hatch until needed again after the paddle. Its adjustable saddle can accommodate canoes or small boats up to 300 pounds. www.c-tug.ca

SeaTrails This creator of an extensive line of kayaking adventure maps has added to its inventory of US-based waterproof offerings with two Canadian entries: the Deer Group and the Broken Group, both within Barkley Sound. You can now get them at key retailers in Canada as well as in the US or online at wavelengthmagazine.com. www.seatrails.com

Beckson Marine There's only one true way to test a water pump: fill two cockpits with water, get one person to use the pump and another to use a bucket, and see who wears out first. General experience is a bucket will win every time. But pumps are a legal requirement, and handy if you want to keep the sprayskirt on because wash will fill your cockpit. Beckson Marine is tackling our preference for buckets with the Genuine ThirstyMate 318P1 Sea Kayak Pump. The pump incorporates an aluminum reinforcing shaft to prevent the shaft from flexing in a rolling sea (now that would be nasty conditions!), while not interfering with a compass (so north isn't your stern deck bungy cords where your pump sits). The optional float sleeve comes in your choice of red or yellow for the fashionconscious pump owners among us. www.beckson.com.

A whole new world is unfolding...

Planet  Kayak Test paddle the internet's newest kayaking resource. www.planetkayak.net 26

Wavelength Magazine

FALl 2009

New Gear

Discovery Trekking Remember those thick, soft towels in laundry commercials? Comfy, but not so great on a long kayaking trip. Better would be something lightweight that wicks moisture from the skin and dries much faster than traditional towels. Enter The Discovery Trekking Sport and Travel Towel that, rather than absorbing water, pulls moisture across the fibres and the surface of the fabric to evaporate, making it four times faster to dry out than a traditional towel. Silver discourages bacterial growth and that musty smell. Plus it is lightweight and easy to pack. www.wickingtowel.com

When Team Wavelength was shopping for new paddles, it didn't take long to hone in on Werner. We were looking for two feather-weight paddles to accommodate two different paddling styles. The result: for the high-angle paddler among us, the Cyprus Performance Core Tour bent shaft. For the low-angle paddler, the Kalliste Performance Core Tour bent shaft. Weighing in at just 26 ounces, both feature the Werner carbon weave, the bent shaft for comfort and reduced strain, and an adjustable ferrule to feather in 15-degree increments. The Cyprus is designed for a more powerful catch and stroke at a high angle for a faster cadence. The Kalliste, meanwhile, will better serve a more casual and relaxed stroke at the more traditional low angle. Watch for the Werner to power future kayak reviews and Team Wavelength trips along the coast. www.werner.com

Kalliste

Cyprus

New to Wavelength's gear locker

FALL 2009

Wavelength Magazine

27

Review

16

Sweet (Delta) I

magine a sporty little compact car boasting lots of stock features at a budget price – fun for the owner, but likely snubbed by sports car purists. That is, until one stops to look under the hood. And so it goes with the Delta 16 – a sporty little compact kayak that, for lack of a better phrase, comes tripped out with enough standard features to raise an eyebrow or two. And the package may be enough – just maybe – to entice fans of the more traditional Brit boats to take a look at what the 16 has to offer. Members of the South Island Sea Kayaking Association (SISKA), BC's newest paddling club, were offered the chance to look under the hood and kick the tires as this issue's guest reviewers. And as should be expected for a start-up Brit-style boat, in thermoform no less, the reviews were all 28

Wavelength Magazine

over the map. The boat's creator, Mark Hall, dubs it the "full-frontal lobotomy for the British Canoe Union." And it's certainly a departure for a manufacturer known to make predictable and stable boats. At just 22 inches wide, it's the narrowest of the Delta offerings, with the fit tailored for the smaller to mediumsized paddler. It's the level of experience the boat is designed to attract where views vary most widely. Delta tells us it's for an intermediate to advanced paddler. But a few key reviewers – among the most veteran of SISKA's considerably experienced membership – thought differently, labelling

SISKA's Michael Jackson tries the 16 off the Chatham Islands near Victoria, BC.

the 16 more on the level for beginner to intermediate paddlers. Let the controversy begin! Perhaps the most compelling review came from one guest kayaker, Dorothea Hoffman, a female used to a narrow boat and one of the smaller-sized reviewers for which the boat was designed. "At 5’4”, 135 lbs, I am a woman who usually prefers my 19 inch wide boat. But it was quick and easy to adjust the boat to fit my smaller frame, and I felt very secure and connected with the boat," she says. A new fit kit that will allow slender kayakers to adjust the seating to size will take that comfort one step further.

Delta 16 specs

Length Beam 16' 22"

FALl 2009

Depth 12"

Cockpit 32.5"L x 16"W

Total storage Weight 371.1 L 50 lbs

Delta 16

Win this kayak

So here's a tally of the assessments. The basics: The Delta 16 is unique for its four hatches, two of which can best be described as pods – two day hatches, one in front and one behind the cockpit. Both are self-contained, with the rear day hatch taking up only a portion of the boat's width. This has two advantages: making the gear in the pod easy to reach and allowing longer gear such as tents to be stowed alongside the pod, something not possible if your day hatch is divided by a bulkhead. The front day hatch also sits in a pod that lies under the deck inside the cockpit. This might appear to obstruct leg room, but careful design avoids that trap. The Delta 16 has considerable rocker, which for larger paddlers doesn’t necessarily equate into added maneuverability. But once again, correctly-sized Dorothea set the tone: "Due to the interesting curve of the hull above the chines, the boat has great secondary stability. Easy to put and hold on edge, a cinch to turn, it is an easily paddled boat." In other words, be careful you're the

About our guest testers

right size if you want to take advantage of this kayak's ability. For advanced paddlers, the 16 is likely to come to life in surf and waves, where its size and design is best suited. To add to the versatility, Delta has added a choice of a skeg, rudder or none (but not both). This will widen the 16’s appeal significantly. The rating Touring: Delta is known for getting a lot of volume out of a little, and the 16 matches this with a healthy 210 litres storage in the hatches – good for a week of gear, maybe two if you scrimp. The ability to slide the seat forward helped center weight and avoid weathercocking. Playing: "Easy to roll, easy to balance brace." The rolling is aided by a quirk of the Delta design: when inverted, it sits naturally at a 15-20 degree angle, a huge assist in getting upright. Stability: The Delta 16 is very easy to turn and maneuver for a smaller paddler. Weathercocking was an issue for a mediumsized paddler off Gabriola. The skeg helped tracking immensely. The positives: A thoughtful design, lots of extra features and attention to detail make this an interesting boat to review and paddle. Clearly Delta is interested in raising the bar through paying attention to kayaker's needs. People who like this kayak are likely to love it. Overall: Full-frontal lobotomies aside, Delta Kayaks has moved into a niche of its own here with a very affordable and versatile smaller boat catering to a smaller person. We would love to take this out in surf, arguably the 16's forte. When we do we'll post the results online on the Wavelength Forum (www.wavelengthmagazine.com/ forum). In the meantime, consider this an option for the smaller paddler who wants a racy option without going the traditional sports car, er, Brit boat route.  <

Shopping for kayaks? Search by make, model, size, features...

Entering the thermoform debate

Check out our new online kayak directory

www.wavelengthmagazine.com FALL 2009

Wavelength Magazine

29

Skillset



1

Before re-entering, visualize the full sequence of your movements.

Re-enter Roll

&

2

Take a deep breath and re-enter the capsized boat. Secure a good grip with your legs before attempting to roll.

3

A good grip on the paddle is also key. Take the time to orient blade angle.

30

Wavelength Magazine

FALl 2009

By Alex Alex Matthews Matthews By

W

ith summer warming the water it’s the perfect time to practice favorite rescues, try some new ones, and generally mess about in boats. If you already have a solid roll (for a refresher see the Fall 2008 Wavelength Skillset), or are working towards one, a fun self-rescue is the re-enter and roll. The concept is simple: in the event of a swim, you can re-enter your capsized kayak while it’s still upside down, and then roll it back upright. The key to performing a successful re-enter and roll is making sure that you’ve established a good solid grip on the kayak with your legs before trying to roll. If you want to roll up on your right, position yourself by the cockpit, on the right side of the capsized boat (this is actually port side of the overturned kayak). Place your paddle along the edge of the cockpit (port side), so that you can grip your paddle and the cockpit rim with your left hand. Your right hand reaches across to the far side of the cockpit rim. Holding the boat on edge, swing your feet up into the cockpit. I will usually feed my legs part way in, take one last deep breath, and then go for the full re-entry. This is the crux of the maneuver – be sure to pull your butt completely into the seat, and get your knees, and ideally at least one foot, firmly braced in place. Failure to secure a good grip on the boat by locking your legs into the thigh hooks will doom any attempt at rolling. So take your time, don’t rush, and be sure that you are in position and have achieved a solid fit before starting your roll. The last step before rolling is to shift your right hand onto your paddle shaft. It’s often helpful to reach out and feel the blade in order to orient the blade angle before rolling. Once you’ve rolled the boat upright, you’ll need to pump the water out. Or, if you’re close enough, you may opt to make a dash for shore and empty the water there. A variation for paddlers with less than reliable rolls is to ‘beef up’ the re-enter and roll by affixing a paddle float to their active rolling blade before sliding back into the capsized kayak. A paddle float will generate much more support for a roll, and provides

YGM Y P

Photos by Dave Aharonian

Re-enter and Roll

4

Execute a smooth and deliberate roll without rushing.

What’s for dinner?

Northern Pike ` a la Pygmy is as fresh as it gets.

5

As with any roll, your head is the last thing to come up.

a solid brace to use while pumping the water out of the kayak once upright. The disadvantage of using a float is that it will take more time to set up and therefor requires the swimmer to be in the water longer. While the re-enter and roll starts out feeling like little more than a “party trick” rather than a legitimate self-rescue, as a paddler gains experience with this maneuver, its appeal increases. It is fast, requires no additional equipment (unless using the paddle float variation), and it’s a great drill for building your confidence and comfort level with rolling. < Adapted from "Sea Kayaking Rough Waters" by Alex Matthews available at www.helipress.com.

Designed by veteran wilderness paddler John Lockwood. Built by you. Voted the top kit kayak in North America. Visit us in Port Townsend, Washington 360.385.6143

w w w. pyg my b o at s . c om

top rated· ultra-light· rugged· high performance

fall 2009

Wavelength Magazine

31

Ecology

By Neil Schulman

Kelp 101

A primer on the prime marine plant of the Pacific coast

I

’m sitting in a room with Jennifer Hahn, owner of Elakah Expeditions and well-known chef of all things from the sea. She has three camp stoves running and is showing us how to make chowder, pickles and chocolate pudding. We’re furiously taking notes and devouring samples. All three dishes are based on one ingredient – kelp. Kelp is more than an ingredient in chowder and sushi, of course. It’s presence or absence dominates the ecology of nearshore waters. It tangles the paddles of kayakers and gives us places to fish and take shelter from the waves. And underwater, kelp is both a crowded Manhattan of the undersea world and a major driver of the ecology in other zones. When we talk about kelp, we’re really talking about two major species that grow in dense underwater forests on shallow ocean margins, where their holdfasts can attach to rocky bottoms and still reach sunlight. South of Santa Cruz, CA, kelp forests are dominated by giant kelp (Macrocystis pyrifera). Northwards, the dominant species is the bull kelp (Nereocystis luetkeana). It’s a bit slower growing but more tolerant of heavy waves. When we float alongside the floating stipes (leaves), it’s easy to sense that a lot is 32

Wavelength Magazine

happening out of sight beneath you. Kelp crabs and snails cling to the stipes, and anyone who fishes knows there’s a lot to be caught in the kelp forests. We’re peering down, like a bird circling above a forest canopy. A forest is a good analogy, because the underwater vertical structure is similar to a complex forest – but with much more nutrition in the trees. With a holdfast instead of roots, all the nutrition is packed into the stipes and stalk (thallus). Combine the tasty kelp with upwelling currents that bring nutrients from the deep sea, and you have an ideal place for sea creatures to chow down. If you’re a fish or an invertebrate, kelp forests are great neighborhoods for raising a family. The tangled forests of kelp grow several centimetres a day and provide shelter for everything from tiny crab larva to thirty-foot long grey whales hiding from pods of orca. The kelp provides a solid place for fish and invertebrates to attach egg masses. The dense stands slow currents and dampen wave action, which means it’s a great quiet place for young fish to hatch and grow up, or for the seagoing microscopic larvae of crabs and barnacles to avoid being swept out to sea. So it’s not surprising that this edible, FALl 2009

ideal housing development is pretty full. A study of just five holdfasts revealed 23,000 individual creatures from nine different invertebrate phyla; one dive survey revealed 204 species in the vertical structure of a kelp stand. The kelp is where the party is. Kelp forests are also a major driver of the sea’s ecosystems. Fish raised in kelp beds range far and wide. Migratory species may hop from one kelp bed to the next up and down the coast. And by dampening wave action, kelp changes the nature of intertidal ecosystems. Less spray high on the rocks means fewer barnacles and fewer predatory snails. In contrast, critters like chitons and urchins that cling to the rocks and soft-bodied creatures like anemones thrive with less pounding. There’s some evidence that the density also “filters out” the free-swimming larva of some intertidal species, controlling the composition of the tidepools.

W

hen I paddle Oregon’s open coast there’s no shelter from the waves. There are no kelp beds to rest in, and I’m constantly on the alert lest I be smashed into the rocks. In contrast, on a recent trip to Nuchatlitz Inlet, kelp beds were everywhere, offering us an “inside” route on the open coast that allowed us to

Kelp Forests get close to rocks inside the beds. One of the differences might be more offshore shallow rocks to which the kelp can attach. But another factor is something far more photogenic: the sea otter. On our recent weeklong Nuchatlitz trip, we saw so many sea otters that we stopped pointing them out to each other by the end of the first day. They roamed around singly and hung out in big rafts of 30 to 40 cute, furry blobs. They would raft up in kelp beds where they eat urchins, crabs, sea cucumbers and clams. The sea otter (Enhydra lutris) is a keystone predator. Their sense of cuisine sets off a ripple effect through the coastal ecosystem. And they’re absent in a lot of places, because they were hunted for fur in the 18th and 19th centuries, nearly to extinction. A few small population pockets exist off the California and Washington coasts. In British Columbia, they’re abundant where they were reintroduced in Checleset Bay in 1972, and have spread north and south along the west coast of Vancouver Island. And they keep the sea urchin population in check. It’s hard to believe watching sea urchins in a tide pool, but they are voracious. They chew through the holdfasts of kelp, eat their way through the stem and move in herds that can devastate kelp forests at a rate of 30 feet per month (pretty fast for something with no arms or legs). Uncontrolled, they can create “urchin barrens” where they chow down any kelp plant that tries to regrow. Without otters, urchins have devoured miles of kelp forest on the Pacific Coast, along with the ecosystems they support. My otterless, largely kelpless home state of Oregon is a perfect example. So a lot more may ride on the reintroduction of the sea otter than photogenic mammals. Famed ecologist Edward O. Wilson calls them the most important keystone species in the world. They’ve been reintroduced to parts of California and Washington, as well as B.C. But oddly enough, otters and kelp forests may be stuck in a chicken-andegg conundrum. Attempts to reintroduce otters to Oregon have failed, and one of the reasons may be that without the kelp forests for shelter from predators and

Top to bottom: kelp contributing to the land ecology; the underwater view of the kelp world; sea urchins – enemy of the kelp; and sea otters – enemy of the sea urchin.

waves, the otters can’t survive. Other big changes are coming to kelp forests near you. The first clue came in 1997 when a strong El Nino weather system in the tropical Pacific wreaked havoc with the complex interplay of ocean temperature, weather and currents. The El Nino warmed surface waters as much as 4°C and suppressed the summer northwest winds that cause upwelling of cold, FALL 2009

nutrient-rich water along the west coast of North America. Kelp is both sensitive to warm temperature and reliant on nutrients from the deep. In 1997 one-third of Washington’s kelp coverage died off, especially the more temperature-sensitive bull kelp of the outer coast. Unfortunately, these changes are likely to increase. Global warming is expected to warm oceans and increase the frequency and strength of El Ninos. So our kelp forests are in for a challenge. But a lot is underway that can actually help these undersea kelp forests. The sea otters reintroduced to the west coast of Vancouver Island may continue to spread to new habitats and open up environments where kelp can thrive. Some scientists also suspect that kelp forests may sequester excess carbon dioxide by absorbing it in photosynthesis and increasing their growth rate, resulting in a growth spurt that might offset the affect of warmer water. A lot is still unknown about kelp forests and the complex interactions of the sea. Will the reintroduction of the sea otter go as hoped, reach a dynamic equilibrium with the populations of urchins and allow kelp to regrow? Or will it take some new direction we can’t predict, after 150 years of their absence and other ecological change? How will the effects of global warming be felt? Will the more tolerant giant kelp replace bull kelp? Or will it prove too sensitive to the wave action farther north? As I walk along the beaches of Nuchatlitz Inlet, with a raft of sea otters floating offshore, I think of something else. Another puzzle is the effect of kelp on land. The beach is strewn with kelp, from tiny holdfasts the size of my thumb to big mounds of decaying kelp, hopping with amphipods and chewed by deer. Kelp is clearly contributing nutrients to the beach and forest ecosystem in some way that we don’t know. In the classroom, Jennifer Hahn shows us how to harvest kelp without disturbing its reproductive cycle. The next time I’m out paddling, I grab a kelp stipe and take a bite. It tastes like the sea. < Neil Schulman lives in Portland, Oregon, where he does environmental work and loves to eat seaweed salad. Wavelength Magazine

33

g a o Y for kayakers Health and Fitness

By April Link

How does yoga relate to kayaking? In a word: awareness. Yoga directs attention to the subtleties of the body. Knowledge of how the muscles and bones fit together assists in gaining greater command over their use. The basic physical aspects of alignment, flexibility and core strength that a yoga practitioner develops can also serve the kayaker. A yoga practicing-kayaker can perform rescues more efficiently and quickly as well as make safer decisions when bringing a calm mind into the kayak. Handling rougher waters also comes more easily with less tension in the body. By learning ideal body alignment, you can prevent or reduce a sore behind or aching back. Increase core strength for easier long-distance paddling; shorten the long hours with legs outstretched; get more out of edging and rolling by increasing flexibility. Keep in mind, as with any true solution, a permanent fix comes from long-term effort, not instant magic. At the same time, effects of the stretching and relaxation feel obvious immediately. The more frequently a paddler applies these principles and poses, the greater the benefit they produce. Body alignment represents one of the predominant and most widely applicable concepts within yoga asana (pose) practice. Most people have imbalances in their muscular strength that pull the

skeleton out of neutral alignment (ie: overdeveloped pectorals paired with underdeveloped back muscles). Maintaining alignment prevents acute stresses on body parts and promotes muscle relaxation. The basis of proper alignment in any seated pose as in kayaking is the rooting of the “sit bones.” To find the sit bones, just sit down anywhere and notice the bone behind each cheek pressing through the thick flesh of the gluteus muscles. If the muscle gets pinched between the sit bones and the floor or seat, discomfort results. Simple enough. To sit more comfortably for longer, the paddler can pull the glutes toward the stern, leaving the sit bones more directly against the seat. Remember this especially when anticipating a long, cliffy stretch with little chance for on-shore breaks ahead. Start with the sit bones as a foundation when trying any seated poses before a trip or on the beach. By allowing the bones to hold the weight of your body and leaving the smaller muscles for finesse rather than brute, get more out of each stroke and better utilize the whole body. The following asanas provide examples of direct correlations between yoga and kayaking.

Uttanasana – Standing Forward Bend Since this is a standing pose, instead of the sit bones as the foundation, the heels and balls of the feet form the base. The knees and hips should stack over the ankles forming a tower of bones that holds the position longer and with better balance. Uttanasana will make it easier to maintain good posture as you paddle and prevent a sore back or stiff legs. Hinge from the hips, bringing the chest toward the knees. Press the feet into the ground and lengthen through the back of your legs. With each exhalation, relax and drop the head a bit more. Inhale and press the body up again.

Matsyendrasana – Seated Twist

The power in your stroke comes from the big torso muscles, not the arms. Strengthen this core while exaggerating the paddling rotation in Matsyendrasana. Begin seated with sit bones against the floor. Cross the right leg over the left to place the right foot on the outside of the left knee. Flex the foot. Hug the right leg to your chest and press its hip forward. Place your hand on the ground behind you, near the tailbone, if you can reach. Inhale. Think of a cable attached to the crown of the head, pulling upwards to lengthen the spine. Exhale and pivot the torso around the spine. Unwind and repeat on opposite side. 34

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FALl 2009

Yoga and kayaking

Kurmasana – Tortoise Pose

Tortoise pose accommodates a wide spectrum of difficulty, so progress into a deeper stretch as your practice grows. Kayak instructors and guides will tell you that the most common place that clients end up swimming is right at the shore while getting into the boat. Practicing this pose will make entering your kayak easier by increasing flexibility and loosening the hips. Even if you’ll never be a cowboy, work on this pose and you will see definite benefits. With your sit bones planted, place both your feet flat on the ground in front of you. Bend forward, hinging from the hips with your hands on the floor. Relax the lower back and allow the upper body to drop towards the floor. If you feel limber today, try one-by-one rotating your shoulders in towards your body’s center line in order to slide your arms under your knees. Clasp hands behind your back or hold onto your shirt. In case that isn’t enough, extend your legs in front of you and clasp the feet. To unlock this one, rock from side-to-side and let your arms escape. Photos by Debby McNeil

Half Moon Salutation A salutation is a vinyasa or flow between a series of postures. This salutation helps if you have trouble reaching around the bottom of the kayak for a C-to-C roll or need a bit more control to get your edging solid. Standing with big toes together, inhale your arms up above your head and use your right hand to clasp the left wrist. Press into your feet and stretch your upper body to the right side, creating a half moon-shape. Hold the body as though pressed flat between two planes of glass. If more support would help, brace the lower arm against the leg on the same side. Press into your feet and inhale up to the center and repeat on opposite side. Come back to center and hinge forward. Press the feet into the ground and stand up straight. Reach your arms behind you and arch your back as though lying down over a barrel. Try to maintain a consistent curve in your back so that the angles between the vertebrae are equal. Press your hips forward and protect the neck by keeping the ears even with the arms. Inhale up to center again. Practicing these poses regularly will improve overall body control, flexibility, strength and the ability to remain calm under challenging conditions. Maintaining loose hips and full range of motion in swell, chop, wind or cold weather can make a big difference in keeping you dry and upright. The advantage is pretty clear. Don’t leave the poses at home, though! Try busting them out on the beach before launching or around the fire at night. Morning practice instigates a loose, smooth start to the day while the evening practice

ensures you sleep comfortably. And more importantly, it prevents morning stiffness and sore spots. Long term-practice brings even more complete benefits. Yoga, as with kayaking, involves inherent risks. “No Pain, no gain” does not apply here. Respect your body’s limitations. Proper alignment in a beginner’s version of a pose carries much more benefit than straining into an advanced version and compromising your well-being. No need to aggravate old injuries. Acknowledge pain FALL 2009

and back off. Adapt any pose to personal needs. Consult a doctor before attempting a new exercise routine. This article only covers standard versions of poses. If you think adaptations would be useful or necessary, any qualified instructor or teacher can guide you. < April Link is a certified yoga exercise specialist and freelance writer currently occupied with raising her daughter until she resumes guiding and instructing in the outdoors. Wavelength Magazine

35

Planning and Safety



by Michael Pardy

Uncertain about certification? Michael Pardy C wades into

ertification-based training is increasing in popularity with sea kayakers. More businesses and organizations than ever are offering certification-based training to the public as well as guides and instructors. The impact of certification is obvious to anyone active in the paddling community over the last decade. There has been a measurable advancement in the skills, achievements and diversity of kayakers which is clearly at least partially tied to improvements in training fostered by the demands of certificationbased training programs such as those promoted by Paddle Canada and the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC. Not everyone is happy with this trend in sea kayaking. In a 2004 article titled The Scourge of Certification, John Dowd states “Certification’s principle function, so far as I can tell, is to generate cash for rapacious bureaucracies ... and our favorite pastime shifts from a freedom activity to one of membership in an exclusive club administered by a hierarchy of bureaucrats with an inflated sense of their own importance and competence.” Dowd’s views are shared by many, especially in the club and youth camp community, where the certification debate has been particularly divisive. Determining who can lead trips and who can go on what trips has always been a challenge for these organizations because they rely on volunteers and younger, lower paid staff. Certification is another potential barrier to recruitment of leaders. Dowd calls it “two classes” of kayakers – those with certification and those without. Sea kayak guiding and training businesses were the early adopters of certification in Canada. Guides and instructors have obvious ethical and legal obligations to accept, meet and provide minimum standards in leadership to their clients. From this core of support, certification has 36

Wavelength Magazine

the debate on the merits of certification-based kayak training

slowly and steadily expanded throughout the paddling community, sometimes resulting in conflict. The most notable source of friction is between recreational paddlers and commercial guides and instructors, especially in clubs that rely on volunteer leaders. These volunteers are often frustrated by the standards set by the professional paddling community and rightly question the time and cost of achieving certification in the context of a social organization. There are other challenges with certification. For example, certification tends to privilege clearly defined and observable skills to the detriment of equally, or more important but less tangible abilities such as decision-making, communication, interpersonal skills and problem-solving. Also, evaluations usually occur over a very short period of time within a limited range of environmental challenges and group FALl 2009

behaviors. This serves to further privilege tangible skills and quantifiable knowledge. Also, certification can be a closed loop system, where successful candidates are often developed into instructors and examiners of future candidates. In other words, those that succeed within the system are responsible for perpetuating it. This can limit the creativity and development of new ideas which allows the certification process to adapt to changing needs and to anticipate challenges. There are also benefits to certification. For example, tangible skills and knowledge are the foundation on which paddlers develop less tangible skills. Certification is a simple way to measure and ensure paddlers possess these foundational skills so that other, less tangible skills such as problem-solving, leadership and decision-making can also be fostered. This is especially important in the context of developing leadership skills. Furthermore, the certification process is the result of the collective voice of the leaders in the paddling community. It is an articulation of the expectations and responsibilities of its members. As such, the certification process is an opportunity for members to interact with the wider community and be judged and recognized by peers. It is a guard against experts in isolation who profess a high degree of proficiency but have never been measured against the expectations of the wider community. Experts in isolation are a common problem in clubs; certification encourages leaders and paddlers to travel and paddle with others in the wider community. Indeed, this has been one of the most significant accomplishments of paddling certification. Finally, one of the consequences of the growth in sea kayaking in Canada over the last decade is increased scrutiny by government. Tensions with other user groups such as fishers, powered recreational vessels and commercial interests have

Certification pushed sea kayaking onto the political stage. Certification provides legitimacy for paddlers and affords us a seat at the decision-making table. Certification regimes provide a road map to our community for outside persons and agencies which helps ensure a seat at the table when issues affecting the quality of our on-water experiences arise. One recent example is the revised Transport Canada requirements for canoes and kayaks. The credibility of

the Paddle Canada training program has fostered an ongoing dialogue between Transport Canada and the paddling community, helping to ensure reasonable rules and regulations. Certification has been a healthy development in the sea kayaking community in Canada, part of the maturing of the sport. But we must remain skeptical when certification for recreational paddlers becomes the only path into and through

the sport. Sea kayaking is a voluntary recreational activity that attracts a wide range of people with a wide range of interests from fishing, to wilderness travel, birding, surfing, and fitness. The freedom and independence at the heart of our sport will be damaged if we attempt to restrict who can paddle where and when. < Michael Pardy lives in Victoria where he runs SKILS Ltd. He can be reached at [email protected]

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Wavelength Magazine

37

Paddle Meals



by Hilary Masson

Outback Oven adds a whole new element to kayak cooking

T

he Outback Oven is a practical, lightweight and compact camp kitchen gadget that will get you breaking out from the normal campcooking paradigm. The possibilities of baking with it in combination with a oneburner white gas stove, a double-burner propane stove or a campfire make this tool versatile and worthwhile. Baking bread, cake, crumbles, pizza, tarts, cinnamon buns, lasagna or anything else you could bake at home can suddenly be made on the beach. The oven consists of a heat disperser, which is placed on the stove/fire, then the non-stick pan with a thermometer on the lid and a Kevlar hood with a hole in the top. The heat is dispersed evenly around the inside of the hood and out the top without scorching the bottom of the pan. The thermometer has a scale of warm, bake and burn; the instructions say to keep the dial on the ‘e’ in bake. If you are using a camp stove, modulate the heat as needed; if you are using a campfire, make sure it is only coals and remember the bake time will be shorter than on a stove. This Mexi-Stack recipe is ideal for feeding hungry paddlers, and is a good way to use a variety of ingredients in just one dish. Start by lightly greasing the bottom of the non-stick Outback Oven pan. Then start by layering flour tortillas slightly overlapping. Add a layer of refried beans, chorizo sausage, grated cheese, then another tortilla layer. Now place chopped onion, corn kernels, diced tomatoes and slices of red and yellow peppers. Top with cheese and

Mexi-Stacks Ingredients

another tortilla layer; continue by repeating these same ingredients in the same order. The top layer should be grated cheese with a sprinkle of chili powder and cumin. Bake for 25 minutes in the Outback Oven. Garnish with cilantro and have salsa or hot sauce on the side for those who like it hot. This recipe should feed six hungry paddlers. You can also add zucchini slices, spinach, bok choy or any veggies you want in the layering process. If you have leftover ingredients try making tiny personal pizzas. Place one tortilla in the oven, spread refried beans thinly and evenly then add chorizo, the veggies and top with cheese, chili powder and cumin spices. Bake for five minutes for each individual pizza. Cut in pizza slices and enjoy! < Hilary Masson is a guide and part owner of Baja Kayak Adventure Tours Ltd. Visit www.bajakayakadventures.com.

38

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FALl 2009

by Dan Lewis

M

any moons ago a river canoeing buddy from Alberta joined me for a sea kayaking trip to Johnstone Strait. As we flushed through Blackney Pass on an out-going tide, Jim commented that “the ocean is like a huge lake that behaves like a humongous river.” Yep, you got that right, Jimmy. We’re flushing out to sea! Every day a massive exchange of water takes place along the BC coast. As the tide rises, the current floods up the inlets from the sea, and as the tide falls the waters ebb back to sea. The forces of the cosmos acting on the earth’s oceans are made visible in this daily parade of liquid, sometimes subtly, sometimes spectacularly. There is nothing like the feeling of paddling across a wide channel like Juan de Fuca Strait and noticing that the whole body of water is actually moving. Watching distant mountains slide by, one feels dwarfed by the sheer bigness of it all. It can be very humbling, a useful experience for a species that thinks it is the master of the universe. You can see the current if you look. For example, standing on the wharf in downtown Tofino, you might notice that kayakers paddling away from town have to turn into the current to avoid being swept rapidly sideways. When cruising through narrow passageways you will notice back eddies along shore, separated from the main current by eddy lines – murmuring, gurgling, swirly zones where miniature whirlpools often form. Part of the fun of paddling the BC coast

The

river

is my

Rainforest Chronicles

ocean

is learning to take advantage of this powerful ally. I call it the "Magic Carpet Ride" – hop on and it will take you along, like a conveyor belt. Not only that, but every six hours it turns around and carries you back to where you started! I always plan my outings to take advantage of the currents. (Actually, the sad truth is that although I plan my day according to the currents, as often as not I sleep late, linger over breakfast or get sucked into planting the garden. Then, at the worst possible moment, I leave and pound against the current. By the time I’m ready to turn around, so is the tide, and I pound home against it! But at least I had The Plan – there is some pride in knowing that I knew better.) Going against the current offers unique pleasures and even advantages. In order to ride the Magic Carpet, you have to get away from shore. It is certainly fun to get that free ride, but it can be a bit boring paddling offshore, and you do have to watch out for traffic. If you find yourself paddling against

FALL 2009 Fall

the current, sneak in along shore and take advantage of the eddies. It is supremely satisfying to learn that even when the whole situation seems to be set against you, there is always a way to get where you want to go if you pay attention and think. Plus, the shoreline is where the sky, sea and land meet – a very dynamic environment. Sea kayaking led me to river paddling in canoes and kayaks. From Tofino the good paddling rivers are too far to drive to, but I don’t miss them. There is a massive ocean river right on my doorstep. These days I get my kicks just heading for town. My favourite conditions are a sunny day with northwest winds at twenty-five knots, blowing against a big ebb current, causing steep, surfable waves – easy Class 2 whitewater to paddle while fetching the mail and groceries. What a ride!

< Dan Lewis and Bonny Glambeck operate Rainforest Kayak Adventures in Clayoquot Sound.

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39

Day Trips



by Erik Schorr

Deception Navigate your way through

P

addlers launching their kayaks near Deception Pass can expect the same breathtaking scenery and abundant wildlife found anywhere in the San Juan Islands, with one notable exception: no ferry hassles. Just 90 minutes north of Seattle, Deception Pass State Park is the most popular park in Washington, and for good reason. With 77,000 feet of saltwater shoreline, rugged cliffs, sandy beaches and the famously turbulent Deception Pass narrows, there is a great deal for sea kayakers to see and explore. For beginners: There is protected water to be found in Bowman Bay on the Fidalgo Island side of the park. The beach is moderately steep at high tide, but a large sandy flat is exposed at low tide, making launchings quite simple. Although Bowman Bay is not large, there is plenty of shoreline to explore, and the Coffin Rocks

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at the mouth of the bay usually hold plenty of roosting seabirds. Huge coniferous trees form the visual backdrop behind a large grassy field. If the weather is nice and there is no swell coming in from the Strait of Juan de Fuca, a beginner kayaker could head north around Rosario Head and into the Rosario Beach area. Make sure to slow down enough to see the marvelously folded ribbon chert that makes up the headlands there, and ponder

FALl 2009

the forces that must have shaped them. For intermediate paddlers: For those who are well prepared, there are many great route options that open up. Continuing north from Rosario Beach there are the tall sea cliffs under Sares Head where several small sea caves can be found. Be careful of boat wake and swell when entering the caves. Turning back south from the caves a paddler can head toward the Deception Pass narrows. Make sure that you know what the currents are doing before getting too close; a strong flood will pull you in before you realize what is happening. Just before you turn the corner into the pass is Reservation Head where you will find a beautiful and rugged shoreline peppered with offshore rocks and large kelp beds. Often seals and porpoises can be seen foraging here. On the west side of the bridge the pass is less than half a mile wide and the views of the bridge are great. If the planning has been

Deception Pass done well, and the current is approaching slack water, a paddler can brave a quick foray under the bridge to see the high walls close in above. Do not tarry here, as the currents change quickly and a misjudgment could mean an embarrassing walk over the bridge to fetch your car. If you do not want to risk going into the narrows and you’d rather not retrace your route around Reservation Head, then try paddling into lovely Lottie Bay and take the quick portage back into Bowman Bay. Another option would be to launch the kayaks from Cornet Bay, on Whidbey Island and east of the Deception Pass bridge. A twomile paddle to the east will bring you to Hope Island, a pretty little island with an impressive heronry located on it. Be careful of the tide rips that can form near the west side of the island. For advanced paddlers: There are few playgrounds as friendly and challenging as the narrows of Deception Pass. Most paddlers come out here for the ebbing currents and they tend to stick to the north side, in Canoe Pass, where a nice eddy line forms. Lots of boils and whirlpools can be found just to the west of the pass, a great practice area for bracing and boat control. For folks wanting a little more of a challenge, come on out during the flood. It is much less friendly both in Deception Pass proper and over on the Canoe Pass side, but the whirlpools are incredible! If the wind is blowing from the west and the current is ebbing, then a great place to find surf is on the south side of Deception Island where a shallow reef forces the current to pick up speed and steepen the waves. The surfing is great, but be careful – the current will drag swimmers out to the big lonely waters of Juan de Fuca.

FIDALGO ISLAND

Deception Pass State Park

Sares Head Rosario Beach Rosario Bowman Head Bay Beach Reservation Head

Similk Bay

20 Canoe Pass Deception Pass State Park

DECEPTION PASS Deception Pass Narrows

Pass I.

20

Cornet Bay

Hope Island State Park Skagit Island State Park

WHIDBEY ISLAND

Tips and hazards: Whatever your skill level, please come prepared. The water is cold and the currents are strong. It is always advisable to dress for immersion and have a complete safety kit with you at all times (including flares and a VHF radio). Too many paddlers mistake experience for skill (for example, my grandmother is a very experienced driver at 96 years old, but she probably should not be driving), so try not to overestimate your ability to deal with the prevailing conditions. Get a current weather forecast and know exactly what the currents are doing before you launch. During the summer months the boat traffic can be heavy in the pass making conditions trickier. Weekends are especially busy. < Erik Schorr runs Anacortes Kayak Tours, along with his wife Megan and children Taiga and Tashi. Visit www.anacorteskayaktours.com

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Wavelength Magazine

41

Good sunbathing beach (Kanaka Bay)

Newcastle Island (this is all a park)

Camp here!

Travel Destinations

Dry here at low tide (portages welcome)

Trails along shore

Protection Island (Watch for pirates)

Nanaimo Pavilion

This is a pub! Paddle up or take a ferry (please, don’t drink and paddle!)

Ferry lands here.

Good kayaking

Getting to know

Outdoor music

Cool playground

Oceanfront park Parking Ferry terminal is just down here This isn't here now. Just ignore. Highway 19. but don’t drive. Paddle!

x

Newcastle ferry leaves here

Lagoon Lived here once. 10th floor.

Catch crabs off the fishing pier

Look out floatplanes! Another pub!

Seawalk

Downtown! Great views

Much taller now.

Chances are if you've traveled on Vancouver Island, you've passed through Nanaimo. After all, it's the travel gateway and ferry hub for most of the island's best kayaking destinations. But we're biased at Wavelength Magazine towards Nanaimo as a paddling destination of its own – after all, it is our home base. So for everyone who's passed through Nanaimo but not stopped, here's some water-related trivia to think about – and to keep in mind if you visit. 1. What canoe trip by a Snuneymuxw Chief named Che-wichi-kan to Fort Victoria led to Nanaimo becoming a major marine center? Back in 1849 Chief Che-wich-i-kan, better known today as Coal Tyee, traveled to Fort Victoria to get his rifle repaired. While there he mentioned all the black stones being found in his Nanaimo home. The next spring he returned with a canoe filled with coal. Within two years Nanaimo was shipping coal as a key refueling centre for trade on the Pacific coast, and most notably for the Royal Navy. And so Nanaimo was born. 2. It was possible at one time to travel from Nanaimo to nearby Protection Island by horse or mule. How could this be done other than by boat? Coal mine. Tunnels once blanketed the area, including underneath Nanaimo Harbour to Protection Island. Most tunnels are collapsed or flooded with most evidence gone, though one last coal tipple 42

Wavelength Magazine

The Pavilion

is protected in Morden Colliery Historic Provincial Park just south of Nanaimo. 3. Now a provincial park, Newcastle Island was once mined for limestone. A limestone column is still evident on the shore of the island. How did it get there? Newcastle Island has a long history of occupation, first as a native village then as a Japanese fishing settlement and saltery. Back in 1872 it was a limestone mine when the Zephyr left with 800 tonnes including two 27-foot pillars. The Zephyr ran aground and sank at Mayne Island. In 1987, 105 years later, the pillars were raised and transported FALl 2009

back to where they were originally mined. This is one of many historic remnants dotting the park. Look for the column just across from the Brechin boat ramp. 4. The campsite on Newcastle Island is adjacent to an old pavilion. It was created thanks to which company? In 1931 the Canadian Steamship Company purchased the island for use as a resort. As many as 1,500 visitors a day were brought to the island for picnics, swimming, dances and tea under the cover of the pavilion. After the Second World War the automobile killed the steamship business, and the island reverted to a park. 5. In Departure Bay is a fish farm. It is BC's oldest fish farm. Who runs it? The adjacent Pacific Biological Station operates it as a research pen. It was built in 1974. The Biological Station undertakes a significant amount of marine research, with our favorite project conducting research to save the sea horse in the Philippines. Could anything be more noble?

Travel Destinations 6. In Nanaimo's inner harbour is an odd-shaped wooden building that looks like a fort. What is it? It is the Hudson Bay Company Bastion, the oldest original freestanding HBC fort in North America. The It is likely BC's oldest building. Bastion It was built as an office, storage facility and of course an arsenal, complete with cannons ready to fire across the harbor. The bastion is open for visits during the summer, and a cannon still fires each day during the summer at noon. Protection Island still has yet to surrender (give it time). 7. Where is the only paddlethrough cave in Vancouver Island's Gulf Islands? Jesse Island. The island is one of our personal favorites for paddling, excluding the guard dogs (very nasty!). But you can get rid of them – simply buy the island. The asking price: $5.9 million. This gets you the 9-acre island and a home with five bedrooms, eight bathrooms (!) and a two-

car garage. Just don't plan on driving very far, as it is a small island after all. 8. In Hammond Bay is an island full of shacks that no one officially owns. What 1930s event made this possible? The Great Depression. When the money ran out, people turned to Shack Island, then a Crown (non-private) island and as such rent-free, to build shacks. About 20 were built, and still exist and are used today thanks to squatter's rights. 9. Nanaimo was home to one of the last whaling stations built on the BC coast. Where was it located? Pipers Lagoon in north Nanaimo, also known as Page Lagoon. Pacific Whaling built the station in 1907, and that year beached 97 whales at nearby Shack Island. Not surprising, perhaps, the whales disappeared, and the last one was beached in 1908. In 1912 the station was dismantled and moved to Rose Harbour in the Queen Charlotte Islands. <

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Marketplace Courses and instruction

Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC

David Dreves Kayaking

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

"Paddle Canada" certified kayak courses in White Rock / Crescent Beach. Flatwater Kayaking, Level 1 Sea Kayaking & Level 2 Sea Kayaking. Kayak Tours in Southwestern BC. Phone: 604-318-4019 Web: www.kayakcourses.ca Email: [email protected]

Experience IS Necessary! Since 1991, the Kayak Academy has been providing the best sea kayak experience you can get. Count on us for all your paddling gear. Phone: 206.527.1825 or toll-free 866.306.1825 Web: www.kayakacademy.com Email: [email protected]

The Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC is a non-profit society which upholds high standards for professional sea kayak guides and operators in BC. Through on-going professional development and certification, the Alliance strives to ensure safe practices on an industry-wide basis.

Hooksum Outdoor School West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training. Quality skills training. Hesquiaht traditional knowledge. Certification courses include: Sea-kayaking Flatwater, Level I & II (Paddle Canada), Advanced Wilderness First Aid, Lifesaving, BOAT, and ROC(M). Phone: 250.670.1120 Web: www.hooksumschool.com Email: [email protected]

Accommodation

2009 Fall Guides Exchange Gabriola Island September 25, 26 & 27 Join us for one of the largest gatherings of professional guides on the coast!

Lake Tahoe Vacation Rentals Homeaway.com has 1000+ Lake Tahoe vacation rentals available, from rustic cabins to waterfront estates. Search homeaway.com now for great deals on vacation homes in South Lake Tahoe. Phone: Toll-free 866-771-3010 Web: www.homeaway.com Email: [email protected]

Check the website for Fall 2009 Exam dates

SKGABC Membership

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To become a member of the Alliance, mail this form and a check to the address below. □ Company membership: $100/year □ Individual membership: $35 / year □ Associate membership: $25 / year

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Name: _____________________ Address:____________________ ___________________________ Phone: _____________________ Email: _ _____________________

guide certification courses

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Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC P.O. Box 1005, Station A, Nanaimo BC, V9R 5Z2 [email protected] 44

Wavelength Magazine

advanced skills training

taught by dan lewis and bonny glambeck in clayoquot sound, tofino bc.

For Sale Seaward Southwind fiberglass tandem kayak, 21'x30.5", $1500. Includes PFDs & sprayskirts. (800) 616-1943 or [email protected]

There's more online!

www. rainforestkayak. com 877-422-9453

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Marketplace Associations

Tours and services: BC, Canada

Mothership AdventureS Luxury Mothership Sea Kayaking

Natural History, Cultural, Historical Tours

Paddling Gear

Explore B.C.’s remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety!

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

C-Tug Canoe & Kayak Trolley

www.mothershipadventures.com

● Stows in your canoe or kayak hatch ● Assembles in seconds ● Non-corroding construction materials ● Pneumatic tires ● Weighs only 12 lbs. ● Supports 300 lbs ● Lifetime warranty ● C-Tug – Durable, Practical, Simple and Affordable! Phone: 604-781-8042 Web: www.c-tug.ca Email: [email protected] or try [email protected]

Transport

Kindred spirit

Sea Kayak Transport

kayak company

Lessons, tours, memories

Campbell River, BC water taxi and eco-tours to Desolation Sound and Discovery Archipelago. Affordable kayak transport (4 max) to marine parks and wilderness areas. World-class paddling for all levels. Phone: 250-218-3457 Web: www.morningstarmarine.com Email: [email protected]

No experience necessary. River and ocean tours, whitewater kayak lessons, elite summer camps, custom tours, courses and adult getaways. Find your adventurous side and join us on the water! Phone: 1-888-KS-KAYAK or 250-701-1888 Web: www.kindredspiritkayak.com Email: [email protected]

Tours: Yukon

Tours and Services: Alaska

Kanoe People Ltd.

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Explore Yukon's great rivers and lakes! Rentals, sales, guided tours and logistic services. Cabin rentals summer and winter on the scenic Lake Laberge. Outfitting on the Yukon for over 35 years. Web: www.kanoepeople.com Email: [email protected] Phone: 867-668-4899

Gabriola Sea Kayaking offers Unforgettable, Fun and Affordable Multiday Tours, Groups and Courses in Kyuquot, Broken Group, Clayoquot, Nootka, Broughtons and the Gulf Islands. Hope to paddle with you this season! Phone: 250-247-0189 Web: www.kayaktoursbc.com

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Marketplace Tours and services: BC, Canada *…\ÊÓxä‡xΙ‡xxxÎ

Kayak Desolation Sound All-inclusive guided tours: Into the Majestic Mountains & Desolation Sound. Day tours include Savary Reefs Explorer and the popular Sea Creatures Explorer. Kayak rentals available at locations in Lund and Okeover Inlet. Phone: Toll free 1-866-617-4444 Web: www.bcseakayak.com Email: [email protected]

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ÀœLiÀÌLÀÕViJÌiÕð˜iÌ £Ó£Ê œœÌÊ œÛiÊ,`°]Ê->ÌÕÀ˜>ÊÏ>˜`]Ê Ê6ä ÊÓ9ä

Wilderness Sea Kayaking Sharing the remote Kyuquot area, Northwest Vancouver Island since 1972! Base camping luxuries. Professional guides. Spectacular kayaking options. Diverse wildlife. Local First Nations’ ownership and cultural interaction. Phone: 1.800.665.3040 or 250.338.2511 Web: www.westcoastexpeditions.com Email: [email protected]

Elements Women's Travel Adventure tours for women. Unique day and multi-day tours in the coastal waters of BC. Custom itineraries for women, all designed to 'get into your element'! Phone: 250-245-9580 Web: www.elementstravel.com Email: [email protected]

Sealegs Kayaking Adventures Sealegs’ Eco-Adventure Centre offers waterfront access at Transfer Beach Ladysmith. Guided wilderness tours, rentals, lessons and sales from our pro shop. Multi-day adventures, FREE lessons with tours and rentals. Phone: 250-245-4096 or 1-877-KAYAK BC (529-2522) Web: www.SealegsKayaking.com Email: [email protected]

Bamfield, British Columbia Accommodations, self-guided kayak rentals and kayak transport between the Broken Group Islands, Deer Group Islands and Bamfield. 14 years experience in planning kayak vacations in Barkley Sound. Phone: 1-888-728-6200 Web: www.brokenislandadventures.com Email: [email protected]

Batstar Adventure Tours

Odyssey Kayaking BC Ferries port; Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations. Sales, Rentals, Lessons, Trip planning, and Custom Tours. 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port Hardy. Phone: 250-902-0565 or toll-free 1-888-792-3366 Email: [email protected] Web: www.odysseykayaking.com

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Wavelength Magazine

 Rentals, Tours and Lessons.  Visit Mayne Island and Gulf Islands National Park.

250-539-2463 • www.kayakmayneisland.com

Tours and Services: East Canada

Professionally guided sea kayaking trips to Vancouver Island and Canada's Central Coast. All inclusive. We're thrilled to be the only Vancouver Island-based guided sea kayaking company on the National Geographic Best Travel Adventure Companies on Earth list. Phone: 1-877-449-1230 Web: www.batstar.com

sale

For Mayne Island Kayaking

Tours: Tropical

Kayak Nicaragua 1 to 8 Day Tours in Nature Reserves of Nicaragua. Kayak in coastal estuaries with sea turtles and volcanoes. Sleep on tropical beaches. Cultural Excursions and Off the Beaten Track Destinations. Web: www.IbisKayaking.com Email: [email protected]

Freewheeling Adventures For discriminating paddlers. Nova Scotia, PEI, Cape Breton, Quebec. Inn-based paddling; yacht-supported camping; or multisport. Guided small groups, private, or self-guided adventures, day trips, and quality rentals. Exquisite picnics. Local guides. Phone: 1-800-672-0775. Web: www.freewheeling.ca Email: [email protected]

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FALl 2009

COSTA RICA

OSA PENINSULA

7 days in paradise, December–April. Our 22nd year. [email protected] www.seakayak.ca

Exploring British Columbia? We'll help you get where you want to be. Discover Wavelength's new recreation map series. The Desolation Sound/ Discovery Islands Recreation Map and Trip Planner $9.95

The new North Coast Trail and North Vancouver Island $9.95 – Second edition now available!

Don't forget The Wild Coast resources:

The Clayoquot Sound Recreation Map and Trip Planner $9.95

Three volumes of information covering every nook and cranny of the BC coast.

All maps full color, double-sided, 22x36 on heavy stock

Plus two atlases for the BC south coast and West Vancouver Island.

More maps coming soon: · Gulf Islands · Broughton Archipelago · Hakai/The Central BC Coast

The Broken Group Islands and Barkley Sound Recreation Map and Trip Planner $9.95

Order online or find a store: www.wavelengthmagazine.com/maps.html or call to order by phone: 1-866-984-6437

WaveLength

Your complete source for paddling information. Online and in print.