Wavelength Kayaking Magazine: Winter 2008

PADDLING THE PACIFIC COAST AND BEYOND

JANUARY–MARCH 2008

WaveLength MAGAZINE

CRUISING WITH KAYAKS Drury Inlet Dreamscapes Why Offshore Cruisers Love Their Kayaks

PM 40010049

Choosing a Mothership PLUS KAYAK FISHING • TRAK KAYAK REVIEW KAKAKING RITUALS • THE 3 GOLDEN RULES

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Sean Morley piloting the Rush 2007 World Surf Champion

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JANUARY–MARCH 2008

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Crease Island anchorage, Broughton Archipelago – photo by Ron Mumford

Contents 8

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Drury Inlet Dreamscapes

Mothership Kayaking Is Not Always Black and White With the ink barely dry on new vessel sewage regulations which were introduced in 2007 under the Canada Shipping Act, there is now some talk of the federal government looking into grey water regulation. by Mike Richards

This summer we spent five days aboard the MV Sea Foam exploring the nooks and crannies in the wilderness of Drury Inlet, where low lying islands hug the water and great heaves of mountain thrust their peaks heavenward. by Carol-Ann Giroday

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Different Strokes

I was Robinson Crusoe with an entire island to myself. I explored trails through the towering Douglas fir forest and sat on rocky points. by Hans Tammemagi

Cruising around Martinique this year, I met a slew of cruisers with kayaks, and every one had a different take. by Barbara Gail Warden

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Choosing a Mothership

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But before the selection process begins, potential buyers will likely have established a set of criteria that will help narrow down their choices. by Ron Mumford

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JANUARY–MARCH 2008

Kayaking in Paradise

Kayaking Rituals for the New Year Since we’re close to the turn of the year, it’s time to offer some new paddling “traditions.” by Neil Schulman

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Editorial

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Exercising the Angling Option Fishing Angles by Dan Armitage

Dan Armitage is a boating, fishing and travel writer based in the Midwest. He is a licensed (USCG Master) captain, hosts a syndicated radio show, and presents kayak fishing and photography seminars at boat shows.

Bahamian Fishing

by Ben Mumford

Trak T-1600 Sea Kayak

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Kayak Review by Alex Matthews

Adam Bolonsky is a kayak fishing guide and fitness expert, based near Gloucester, Massachusetts.

WindPaddle Kayak Sail

You can read Adam’s lively blog at paddlingtravelers.blogspot.com

Product Review by Adam Bolonsky

The 3 Golden Rules

Skillset by Alex Matthews

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Alex Matthews is WaveLength’s gear reviewer and writes our paddling skills columns. He has authored and coauthored several kayaking skills books and has been involved in the design and development of kayaks. [email protected]

Mothership Options Navigating the Materials Maze

Getting Started by Alex Matthews

Ceviche

Paddle Meals by Hilary Masson

Hilary Masson, our Paddle Meals contributor, is a guide and part owner of Baja Kayak Adventure Tours Ltd. www.bajakayakadventures.com

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Endless Love: The Water Cycle for Kayakers

Bryan Nichols is a marine biologist and science writer from Vancouver Island who is currently working on a PhD and a tan in Tampa. He’d probably get done quicker if he wasn’t trying to kayak around all of Florida’s Gulf Coast barrier islands.

by Bryan Nichols

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Book and DVD Reviews

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WaveLength Bookstore

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Events

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Coastal News

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The Marketplace

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Loafer’s Log

by Diana Mumford

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Neil Schulman’s writing and photography have appeared in numerous magazines and publications. He also does environmental work in Portland, Oregon.

© Wade Norton photo

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by Ron Mumford

JANUARY–MARCH 2008

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editorial

WaveLength

MAGAZINE

January–March 2008

Volume 18, Number 1 PM No. 40010049

Editor – Diana Mumford [email protected] Publisher – Ron Mumford RMumford@PacificEdgePublishing.com Copy Editing – Jenni Gehlbach Marketing – Ben Mumford Ben@PacificEdgePublishing.com Webmaster – Paul Rudyk Writing not otherwise credited is by WL staff. Cover: Rick LeBlanc photo - Fury Cove, Penrose Island, just north of Rivers Inlet.

SAFE PADDLING is an individual responsibility. We recommend that inexperienced paddlers seek expert instruction and advice about local conditions, have all the required gear and know how to use it. The publishers of this magazine and its contributors are not responsible for how the information in these pages is used by others. WAVELENGTH is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops, outdoor stores, fitness clubs, marinas, events, etc.), and globally on the web. Also available by subscription. Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome.

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t’s early January as I write this—the beginning of a new year—and with fresh calendar pages hanging expectantly on the wall, come dreams for new endeavors, resolutions for change and the promise of more paddling! We have focused on “cruising with kayaks” for part of this issue of WaveLength, with possibilities for exploring new territory aboard a guided mothership or with kayaks on the deck of your own boat. Alex Matthews reviews a folding kayak that might be the perfect solution if bagging a kayak makes more sense that storing one on deck, and explains the pros and cons of kayak construction materials for those who are considering a new kayak this year. If you’re ready to expand your horizons in a different way—by adding sailing to your repertoire—Adam Bolonsky has tried out a new kayak sail that will really get you moving (downwind at least). Neil Schulman has some suggestions for new traditions for your paddling group to build skills and have fun at the same time. To help you enjoy your kayak in another way that will be new to some readers at least, I am delighted to welcome Dan Armitage as a WaveLength columnist. Dan has agreed to share his expertise in a column dedicated to kayak fishing. Dan brings his experience as a freelance outdoors writer, syndicated radio program host, magazine editor and keen paddler and angler to our new “Fishing Angles” column. Dan is also a popular speaker at sport and boat shows throughout the US, where he conducts “Kids’ Fishing Fun” seminars for children and their parents. He was recently honored by the National Water Safety Congress with a regional award in recognition of his accomplishments and contributions to water safety, was named Ohio’s “Safe Boating Educator of the Year” for his “Don’t Blame the Boat” brochure and video, and he designed the “Hey, PWC Riders!” launch ramp signage that is distributed by the Safe Boating Council. We are very happy that Dan has decided to join the WaveLength team. (Speaking of columnists, Dan Lewis and Alan Wilson are taking a break, and hopefully will be back in the next issue.) As you can see, there is lots of potential for new paddling experiences included in this first issue of WaveLength for the new year, and I hope that it inspires your plans for adventures in 2008. PS If supporting a marine environmental organization is one of your New Year’s Resolutions, please visit WaveLengthMagazine.com and click on the Associations link under the Resources heading. Scroll down for a list of organizations that work to protect west coast waterways. If your favorite organization is not listed, please send us a note.

Printed on recycled ancient rainforest-free paper.

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JANUARY–MARCH 2008

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Drury Inlet Dreamscapes

Story by Carol-Ann Giroday Photos by Rick LeBlanc

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or Rick and I, mothership kayaking offers all the joys of paddling without the discomfort that can be associated with kayak expeditions—like rain, wet gear and loaded kayaks. Our boat, the MV Sea Foam, a 40 ft. pilot house trawler, is a comfortable home to us year round, and a great vessel in which to explore our coastal waters. We have a substantial tender that we use as a scuba dive platform, and two 12.5 ft. Necky Santa Cruise kayaks. We also carry fishing equipment, crab and prawn traps to satisfy our seafood cravings, a small freezer, an excellent reference library and first-rate satellite music for lazy days and quiet evenings. Our mothership acts as a mobile, floating base where a hot meal and a dry bed await at the end of the paddling day. We nudge the noses of our kayaks into intimate passages during the day, and by late afternoon meet up with the Sea Foam for hot showers, a glass of wine and splendid meals cooked in the small but efficient galley. Nights are cozy in the glow of the saloon lamps as we relax around the table. This summer we spent five days aboard the MV Sea Foam exploring the 8

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nooks and crannies in the wilderness of Drury Inlet, on BC’s Central Coast, where low lying islands hug the water and great heaves of mountain thrust their peaks heavenward. While the Broughton Archipelago is a popular cruising and paddling destination during the summer months, Drury Inlet is among the least traveled in the region. Unlike most mainland inlets, Drury’s head is northwest of its mouth, and although most inlets are steep-shored, Drury’s terrain is relatively flat, allowing the prevailing westerlies to whip down-inlet. Southeast winds can make travel unpleasant here as well. Tidal rapids guard Drury’s mouth, and the current in Stuart Narrows can reach seven knots on large tides. Navigation can be challenging once past Jennis Bay, but it is well worth the effort to explore this inlet. Scenery, excellent anchorages and diversion abound here for those with an adventurous spirit. We arrived at Stuart Narrows, west of Wells Passage at slack tide. With the help of guidebooks, we navigated past the hazards at the narrowest part of Stuart Narrows and proceeded west up the inlet, finding it to be a considerable body JANUARY–MARCH 2008

of water. The low surrounding land was forested with second growth timber and had obviously been heavily logged over the years. Beyond the narrows, the most popular anchorages are Richmond Bay, Jennis Bay and Sutherland Bay. They all have reasonable all-weather protection and good holding. As we negotiated past Welde Rock, we approached Richmond Bay to port and proceeded to the eastern side of the bay and anchored where we had a view up the inlet to Ligar Islet and beyond. The winds for the night were predicted to be variable so we weren’t worried about a strong westerly blowing in on us. It was a quiet night with a striking sunset, and the morning sky the next day was equally beautiful. The plan for our first full day in Drury was to paddle west up the inlet about three miles and visit the marina at Jennis Bay. Allyson and Tom Allo are the new owner occupants of the marina property at Jennis Bay, once owned by Allyson’s father many years ago. When the property (including the docks, house and some shore-front land) again became available, Allyson and one of her brothers bought

it and secured provincial permission to establish an eco-resort. They have lived there for two years, and enthusiastic, eager, and very welcoming, they have big plans for a four-chalet resort that can accommodate up to sixteen guests. Six boats were tied to the dock as we approached and were met by Allyson and Tom and their two young children. The marina, with its cookhouse and gift shop, has become a popular spot for boaters since it started in the summer of 2006. Many logging roads surround this area and Tom will happily take adventurers in his truck to nearby Huaskin Lake to fish, kayak or just explore. They are proposing to expand their seasonal services and activities in coming years to include three and four-day adventure packages with “historic logging camp style” accommodations and dining, advanced geo-cache treasure hunts, cold water diving and freshwater and saltwater fishing with local contractors. They are getting geared up to have accommodations available for visitors in 2008. Tenting is an option as well. Allyson mentioned there was a memorial in Helen Bay near Welde Rock for a

tug boat captain and crew member who lost their lives when their tug and barge lost control in the tidal water. The next day we searched the north shoreline two miles east of our anchorage and found the memorial on the rocks on the southwest side of Helen Bay. As we paddled back to the Sea Foam, we met another boater fishing from his tender at Leche Rocks. He told us there was good ling cod fishing in the Richmond Bay area and that he had caught a 45 inch cod the week before in this spot. Around Leche Islet was his favorite place to fish as the underwater rocky terrain is perfect habitat for ling cod. The next morning we motored up to the Muirhead Islands and dropped anchor in a small notch behind an islet at the northeast end of the group. We were in the midst of a cluster of rocks and islets—exactly the sort of formation in which we love to paddle. Once anchored and secure, we took the kayaks off the roof of the pilot house and prepared for another adventure. We had a gorgeous paddle in the lagoon-like hidden channels among evergreen encrusted rocky islets, tree limbs draped in lichens and JANUARY–MARCH 2008

shores thick with moss. Next morning we pulled up anchor and headed out into Drury Inlet and north into Actress Passage. This passage requires close attention to the charts and the helm, and should be transited only at slack according to our guidebooks. We found Peter Vassilopoulos’ North of Desolation Sound (ISBN 0919317324) with its vibrant photographs to be particularly helpful for this area, which is narrow and rock strewn. We were glad we didn’t have to deal with strong current our first time through. We anchored in Skeene Bay and were pleased to find that it was out of the current and the prevailing winds. Skeene Bay is a lovely anchorage with a spectacular view of Mount Bullock to the northeast. Unless the winds are coming from the east, the small anchorage is tranquil and still. Once anchored, we packed a picnic lunch and prepared to depart on a ten mile round trip into Actaeon Sound. The current would be in our favor until 1800 and then would switch and push us homeward. At 1400 we paddled out into the current in the narrows just outside WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

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Boaters enjoying pot-luck at Jennis Bay Marina.

our anchorage. We had only to steer the kayaks, as the flood current was pushing us along at a good clip. We paddled up to Bond Lagoon that is only passable for larger vessels at high tide because of the rocks at its entrance. As this was the middle of the rising tide, the water was rushing through the narrow opening into the lagoon. We paddled as close as we dared, being careful not to get sucked in, knowing we’d have no hope of getting out for several hours. We continued on along Actaeon Sound and next came to Creasy Bay on our port side. It is a large bay and the wind was funneling through Actaeon Sound over the treetops into the bay. We paddled along the western shoreline and explored some old logging debris inside a boom breakwater. Along this shore are decade-old ruins from past logging days as well as new equipment from operations underway along the hillside up to Creasy Lake. At the end of the bay was a steam donkey on a rotting barge, further evidence of past logging activity. By now we were getting hungry and were looking for a place to get out and stretch our legs. The area had little in the way of landing beaches, and trees grew right along the water line. There were two small islets on the east side of Creasy Bay where we could have enjoyed our lunch and the sun if the wind hadn’t been blowing so hard. We paddled into a mud flat bay just south of England Point and found an old barge beached at the back of the bay. We climbed out of our kayaks a short distance from England Point on a small outcropping of rocks. Around the corner was a building that we thought was ei10

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ther a fish farm or logging quarters. Just beyond that was Tsibass Lagoon where, when it is emptying, there is such a rush of water flowing that the sound is covered with foam. As we ate our lunch, a tug, the Fraser Yarder, was heading toward the lagoon pulling a small log boom. Within about twenty minutes she was coming back down empty and the skipper slowed down so his wake would not bang our kayaks against the shoreline. Rick called him on our handheld VHF to thank him for his courtesy and they had a chat before signing off. When we climbed into our kayaks for the return trip to the Sea Foam, the clouds had rolled in and the wind had picked up. We were pushing against a one foot chop so I paddled closer to shore in an attempt to find calmer water. It was at its worst at Creasy Bay where it was more open and the wind slid down off the rocks and out from the opening of Bond Lagoon. When we turned the corner at Bond Lagoon and headed west, the wind was there to greet us and the ebb current was not helping as much as we had hoped. It wasn’t until we were almost at our anchorage that the current gave us a welcome lift. Just as when we left, the current was really only noticeable at the bend at Skeene Bay where Actress Passage turned into Actaeon Sound. After breakfast the following day we wanted to depart Skeene Bay. It is recommended to travel through the narrows only at high water slack, but high slack would not be until late afternoon and we didn’t want to wait that long. The current was still ebbing when Rick took our tender through the area to check the JANUARY–MARCH 2008

strength and condition of the current flow. He decided that it would be fine to go, and added he would rather see the rock “alligators” at low tide as long as the current was not too much of a hazard. We passed through Actress Passage without incident and as we entered Drury Inlet we noticed another yacht enjoying the anchorage we had left in the Muirhead Islands. We pointed the Sea Foam eastward and carried on out to Wells Passage to further explore the beauty of the Broughton Archipelago. As we motored away I thought of two of Kenneth Grahame’s characters from the Wind in the Willows—cautious Mole and boat-loving Water Rat. Emerging from his home at Mole End one spring, Mole’s whole world changed when he hooked up with the good-natured Water Rat and was told, “Believe me, my young friend, there is NOTHING—absolute nothing—half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.” We agree with Ratty! ••••• Getting There Without A Mothership Air Service: Pacific Eagle Aviation in Port McNeill, Vancouver Island, has two daily scheduled flights to Jennis Bay. Approximately $126 per person with 25 lbs. luggage allowance, length of flight is approximately 15 minutes. 250-956-3339. Water Taxi Service: Shawl Bay Water Taxi from Port McNeill to Jennis Bay has two vessels. The smaller vessel is $275 one-way and can carry 3 people and gear, including kayaks/bikes, etc. It takes approximately 1 hr. 30 min. from Port McNeill to Jennis Bay. Their large boat can carry 6 people and gear for $375 one-way. 250-483-4169. 

affix to inner hull

JANUARY–MARCH 2008

sprayskirts | tow lines | sponges | drain plugs | mec.ca

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Why Offshore Cruisers Love Their Kayaks by Barbara Gail Warden

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ffshore cruisers have pretty similar tastes in kayaks: light (to stow aboard without adding weight), sit-on-top (to avoid swamping, and to let waves on deck wash through those little holes), space for two if possible. I’ve seen seat #2 filled by child, dog, charcoal, groceries and dog-eared books in Ziploc bags. But cruisers definitely don’t have the same reasons for loving their kayaks. Rationales I’ve heard for toting another boat along: stress relief, boat “bikes,” the bug that wouldn’t get out of William’s head, a second car. Cruising around Martinique this year, I met a slew of cruisers with kayaks, and every one had a different take. Michele and Michelle Nalide from Toulon, France, have had their Lagoon 380 catamaran Pinaki six years, but just added two kayaks last year. The Ms keep their kayaks secured to lifelines in port for easy launching, but quickly learned to lash them tightly on the forward deck for passages, as kayaks are notoriously prone to washing over the side in big waves—common in the steady 25 to 30 knot trade winds and 10 foot seas off Martinique! Asked what they like best 12

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about the kayaks, Michelle says “Maintenant, comme nous avons deux voitures.” Now, it’s like we have two cars. “When you start cruising, sailing keeps you busy, but now I can’t imagine how we did without them,” says Debbie from Sea U Manana. “Getting kayaks was like getting bikes for the kids. We anchor close in (easy on their Prout 50 catamaran, with about a two-foot draft), the kids push the kayaks over the bow and take them to the beach. They get freedom, we get privacy, and we can see them from the boat.” Chatty Debbie and strong silent Peter Verstoep from Manitoba, Canada, found kayak number one on the beach in the Exuma Islands in the Bahamas. While Debbie was picking up shells, she glanced down the beach and spotted what looked like a body bag— long, dark green, almost covered in sand and seaweed. “She sent me to investigate the corpse,” says Peter dryly. What he uncovered was a Wilderness Systems kayak in pristine condition. With no apparent owners—indeed, they saw no one for miles, or days—the kayak had a new home. “And the boys loved it so much, we had to buy another one, which we did in St Maarten, the first place we saw sitJANUARY–MARCH 2008

on-top kayaks. It’s another Wilderness Systems, because it’s nice to have matching ones,” says Debbie cheerfully. But the real value of the kayaks for Debbie and Peter lies in the atmosphere they bring to family exploration. “In a dinghy, you’re hurrying, buzzing along with the engine going. On a kayak, it’s peaceful. Beautiful, silent...” The Verstoeps have paddled their kayaks through still sunset waters in the British Virgin Islands, in the erratic coves of the Dominican Republic, and up hushed and remote rivers in Dominica. “Some islands just speak to you,” says Peter. “Kayaks let you explore them without intruding.” “I see you’re looking at my stress reliever,” says a husky voice as I gaze at the first ride-inside kayak I’ve seen on a cruising boat. I look around, behind, then finally down, to see Jane Baum eyeing me from the dinghy lashed alongside 37 foot Cheetah II in the busy marina. Jane is cleaning the hull of the growth that appears within days in the Caribbean, while watching me study their innovative upside-down over-the-stern kayak framework. Deeply tanned Dick and Jane (really) Baum have been cruisers for almost eight years, initially with their

dog Spot (really), who has since gone to Dalmatian heaven but whose memory lives on aboard Cheetah II. Avid kayakers before becoming cruisers, Dick and Jane had his-and-hers Infinity kayaks for years. “Some of the old ones,” says Jane, “just like our boat.” They left “his” at home (mostly for space). “Most cruisers prefer sit-on-tops—do you find this kind swamps?” I ask. “No, I never swamp it,” says Jane immediately. “But she tries,” adds Dick. “Well, once I did.” “You’re really kayakers though,” I say, “so if you flip, can you just roll up?” Debbie looks amused. “Well, no. But I can swim out,” she adds, grinning. “And it really is my stress reliever. Whenever the boat gets too close, you know,” with a sidelong look at her husband, “I just jump in and take off ! I’ve kayaked from the boat all over the Gulf coast, the Bahamas...” “Several times,” adds Dick. Next up for Dick and Jane: Kayaking off Trinidad, Tobago, then around and up to the beautiful San Blas Islands off the coast of Panama.

I meet up with another French couple cruising with kayaks after recapturing more high school French: Patrick and Catherine Dannion on their 41 foot steel Voilier, Cap Eol, with dog and kayak aboard. Sailing through the Caribbean, Patrick and Catherine kayaked most recently in St. Martin (Anse Marse), and St. Bart, and when I dinghy up to Cap Eol to ask about their kayak habits, they’re about to launch their kayaks in Martinique. They say they’re intentionally favoring French ports, but not for the food—it’s because they only speak French! After visiting kayaking friends in Maine shortly before taking off in 2005 on Alouette (a Shannon 43), Sue, John, and kids Katie and William DeLong really wanted a kayak. Especially William. So that year, Santa brought an inflatable, stowable Savenor with plastic skeg to enable it to track. Guess what. It didn’t. The Savenor, while fun for play (my nephews happily use theirs river rafting in upstate Vermont), wasn’t what William had in mind. Friends had shown them stroke techniques, and how to back, and the inflatable didn’t cut it.

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Fortunately, near Isla Caja de Muertos off Salinas, Puerto Rico, what did they spy but a kayak, adrift in the water with no boats in sight. (If this seems oddly common, remember big waves love to wash things off decks.) They sailed into Salinas and asked around, but found no claimers. Thus, they gained a kayak, and boy, have they used it. They started in Puerto Rico, continued around Virgin Gorda, the Dominican Republic, and St. Lucia, where they use the kayak to get to the beach without launching their pristine dinghy with its fabulous one-pull outboard. As Sue and John reorganize their canned goods—an all-important cruising occupation—I watch the kids handily maneuver the kayak in a choppy harbor with 25 knot winds. Cruising skills pay off in kayaking. And kayaks pay off in cruising. In privacy, peace, togetherness, solitude, and good healthy exercise, kayaks more than repay their initial investment. Barbara Gail Warden, a former marketing exec turned freelance writer, divides her time between New England and the Caribbean. 

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Choosing a Mothership by Ron Mumford

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hen attending the West Coast Sea Kayak Symposium at Port Townsend and Paddlefest on Vancouver Island, we have watched people coming to kick the tires, so to speak, of the array of kayaks stretched out along the beach. When you look at the variety—long, short, narrow, wide, single, double, fiberglass, plastic, wood, folding, inflatable—you wonder how anyone could possibly choose. But before the selection process begins, potential buyers will likely have established a set of criteria that will help narrow down their choices. If they plan to paddle with a partner, they may be looking at doubles; if they have aspirations for multi-day expeditions, they will be looking at boats with longer waterlines and the capacity to carry lots of gear; or if they want to carry a kayak on a mothership, they will look at the smaller recreational kayaks that are light and stable and easy to stow on a power or sail boat. Kayak symposiums are the ideal opportunity to “try before you buy” and to take advantage of the helpful advice of many experienced paddlers all assembled in one place. You will be faced with at least as much diversity to choose from if, at some point, 14

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you come to the realization that purchasing a mothership makes sense for you. It may come from your desire to extend the range and variety of your kayaking experiences, or you may want more comfortable accommodation while kayaking the coast. Finding a suitable boat is even more daunting than selecting your first kayak when you consider the complexity of power and sail boats and the financial investment they require. After years of cruising the coast on various vessels, we became boatless for a number of reasons. We borrowed friends’ boats for a few years, in exchange for helping with maintenance, and then moved to kayaks as a simpler alternative to owning a boat. The year we got our first kayaks, 14 foot Necky Zoars, we carried them on the top of a tent trailer to Bamfield. We had a great time that summer paddling in and around Bamfield and Grappler Inlets and the Deer Group, but having the kayaks rekindled our desire to have a big boat again so we could explore our old cruising haunts by kayak. Finding a suitable boat this time was more complicated than previous searches because this time the boat had to function as a mothership to our kayaks. JANUARY–MARCH 2008

But, like selecting a kayak, having answers to some questions and a clearly defined set of criteria helps to narrow the field of possibilities and focus the search. When you know what features are most important to you, you can go to the Internet to see what is available, then walk some docks and “kick some tires.” Here are some questions that helped us choose our mothership. How much do we have to spend? As with any major purchase, your budget will influence what you look at. More money will allow you the luxury to consider better quality construction, a newer or bigger boat and more or better accessories. Power or Sail? Sailboats win hands down for being the most economical and environmentally friendly means of marine transportation. Nothing (except maybe paddling) beats cruising along at hull speed under full sail, making no noise and burning no fuel. Also, having two modes of propulsion is reassuring for safety reasons. Nevertheless, we were looking for a powerboat this time. We started our

cruising experiences on sailboats, and even though we still love to sail, we found that for cruising this coast, especially northern Vancouver Island and Central Coast, with its long, narrow inlets, tidal currents and cooler temperatures, power makes better sense for us. Our cruising time is limited and we like to get a fair distance from home, so the power option allows us to get where we want to go more quickly, and we can travel more comfortably in rain and low temperatures. Also, we like to see out when we’re down below, and powerboats generally have bigger windows and better visibility when you’re inside. How big does the boat need to be? With three of us in the family, we figured a boat in the mid thirty foot range would provide the type of accommodation we were looking for: enclosed head, comfortable sleeping, functional galley, a big enough dinette, outdoor seating space and adequate storage. A number of popular trawler style boats have this kind of accommodation (e.g., Grand Banks, CHB, Albin and Marine Trader). They have the added benefit of three separate living areas— an aft cabin, which usually contains an enclosed head and sleeping area; a midship space with a galley, dinette and settee; and a forward cabin with a second head and sleeping berths. This tri-cabin configuration is very popular with families and couples who like to cruise with guests. With the long waterline of a 34 – 38 foot boat, you can expect to cruise at an economical 8 knots and have the stability to comfortably handle most sea conditions you encounter.

How easy will it be to enter and exit the kayaks? A swim grid was one of our main boat-search criteria, because of how simple it is to get in and out of a kayak when you are down near water level. A high freeboard hull with no swim grid would make life pretty difficult.

How/where will the kayaks be carried? This question pretty much eliminated or admitted boats to our short list right away. If there was no place to carry three kayaks without causing safety and convenience issues, we moved on. We also wanted ease of loading and unloading the kayaks. After cruising one year on a boat with very high freeboard, which meant a long haul up and down every time we launched or picked up the kayaks, a lower hull seemed appealing.

Wood or Glass? Like kayaks, boats are constructed from various materials. Fiberglass and wood are the most common for pleasure boats; work boats are often built of durable and maintenance free aluminum. I’ve always preferred wood boats—I like the feel, the look and the smell of wood, and I much prefer working on wood boats (which is a good thing because they require constant maintenance) so we looked for a wood boat in good condition. If you’re considering fiberglass, watch for compression cracks around deck fittings and blistering below the waterline. These symptoms could be signs of serious underlying problems. Gas or Diesel? There is no doubt in my mind—diesel engines are the preferred source of power for both sail and powerboats. They are safer (less chance of fire or explosion), less troublesome and usually more fuel efficient. Gas engines are quieter and cheaper to repair and replace however, and gas is cleaner burning—no black soot on your transom or dinghy. Given the choice, I would choose a diesel engine, but they cost more, so if budget is a factor, as it was for us, you should keep that in mind. The price of diesel has recently exceeded that of gas, so the differ>> ence in economics is narrowing.

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What gear do we need? Other important considerations we looked for were good ground tackle for anchoring, electronics for navigation and communications, reasonable fuel and water capacity and holding tanks (now mandatory for anchoring in some harbors). Don’t forget the beauty! Boats are one of life’s pleasures that appeal to their owners in unique and unpredictable ways. You will fall in love with one boat and not give another a second glance. Because she will demand your time and money, you really need to feel a special connection to her—you will likely know what this feels like even before you step aboard. Our Final Choice After months of Internet and on-theground searches, we purchased Loafer II, a 35 foot, wooden Chris Craft, built in 1968. She is a Picnic style boat—a style that is seeing a resurgence in the new boat market. They characteristically have a single, covered steering station, which means only one set of electronics to purchase and maintain, unlike boats with a flying bridge which generally have two of everything. The deck over the wheelhouse is ideal for carrying

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our three kayaks. We can get our son’s 9 foot Lightspeed Enigma and our two 12.10 Deltas, both very light kayaks, up and down easily. The boat’s low freeboard makes it perfect for retrieving and launching the kayaks over the rails, and the swim grid makes it easy to enter and exit our kayaks.

JANUARY–MARCH 2008

She has an inflatable dinghy on davits, which is a big plus in terms of ease of docking, creating less drag when we’re running, and safety—the dinghy is ready to be launched quickly if need be, with engine and fuel already on board. Down below, she has an enclosed head, a raised dinette, a settee that dou-

bles as a bunk, V-berth up forward, and a convenient galley to port, out of the passageway. Loafer II has gas engines. Twin gas! A far cry from the single diesel I had first envisioned buying, but we didn’t find a diesel engine boat that met our other criteria in our price range. However, this is the first twin engine boat I have owned, and I find that I really like the maneuverability and the confidence an extra engine gives when we’re upcoast and isolated. Also, the two engines don’t have to work as hard as one to run at our desired speed. We tend to cruise at half the speed she is capable of to burn less fuel, but knowing the power is available should we need it is also reassuring. She has bilge blowers and sniffers, which help reduce the risks associated with gas. Best of all, due to the love of the previous owner, she was beautifully maintained and equipped—all we had to do was move our personal gear aboard and cast off. The great condition of the boat was a definite factor in our final choice, especially because our scheduled holiday time was very soon, and we didn’t have time to renovate or refurbish. So, if the idea of purchasing a big boat to act as a mothership to your kayaks has occurred to you, decide first what features and qualities are most important, then start looking. There are so many boats of such diverse character on this coast, you are sure to find one that will be your home away from home and that will let you paddle in new places not previously so accessible. 

“We know our stuff”

getting you out there since 1981

A Proud “on water” Delta Kayaks dealer 1824 STORE STREET VICTORIA, BC. PH 250.381.4233 • TOLL FREE 1 800 909 4233 WWW.OCEANRIVER.COM

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by Mike Richards

W

ith the ink barely dry on new vessel sewage regulations which were introduced in 2007 under the Canada Shipping Act, there is now some talk of the federal government looking into grey water regulation. With BC boaters—including some of us with motherships—still coming to terms with black-water (sewage) discharge restrictions, the rumours about new grey water regulation are already raising some eyebrows. Notwithstanding the bureaucratic ability to complicate what should be common sense, there is some confusion as to what exactly is grey water and what impacts it can have on our kayaking and cruising waters. Nothing’s black and white. Although it may seem harmless, grey water, which is introduced into the marine environment via our galley sinks, showers and basins in the head, can pose a threat to the marine and aquatic environments. That is because it can contain toxins like phosphates, chlorine, inorganic salts and metals, and includes soaps and detergents from boat showers, dishwashing and laun-

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dry facilities. It’s also made up of the water and products we use to clean our boats. These products, even those labeled “biodegradable,” can contain substances that are harmful to marine life in a variety of ways. For example, many of them introduce excess nutrients, and some coat the gills of fish and other marine organisms, essentially causing suffocation. In larger vessels, grey water can also include ground-up vegetable matter from garbarators, which introduces even more nutrients into the ecosystem. Because boats are not connected to a sanitary sewer system, grey water flows untreated into our local waterways and oceans— potentially knocking the marine ecosystem out of balance. During my travels this past summer, I noticed a number of areas where there seemed to be unusual algae blooms, possibly related to increased nutrient levels. As more and more boats use our favorite kayaking areas, it’s possible we might see more blooms, unless we manage to reduce the impacts of grey water and other pollutants.

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photo by Ron Mumford

Mothership Kayaking Is Not Always Black and White

Fill up the tank please. What are some of the options available to us to ensure our grey water is doing the least amount of harm to our kayaking waters? Well, the most definitive solution is to install a grey water holding tank to collect all the water from showers and sinks in our galleys and heads. This water could then be discharged at an appropriate reception facility (pump-out) that would send it to a municipal treatment system before being discharged back into the ocean. Sadly, reception facilities that would take grey water are few and far between in BC, so another alternative is to dump the collected water as far away from land as possible. This still introduces a sudden surge of pollutants into the marine environment, but at least it’s away from enclosed waters. Regardless of how the collected waters are dealt with, there are still the challenges of installing a holding tank, including where to put one with enough capacity and the associated cost. Down the drain. Another option is source control, which is ensuring that harmful pollutants and/or excess nutrients don’t go down our sinks and showers in the first place. On a small boat this is sometimes easier said than done. Nonetheless, paying just a bit more attention can result in huge reductions in the amount of our personal pollutant discharges. For instance, what detergent product are you using to wash your dishes? Is it one that has surfactants made from petrochemicals or is it made from natural vegetable oils? What shampoo do you use in the shower? Conditioner? Soap? What cleaning products do you use inside and outside of your boat? We need to avoid phosphates, chlorinated compounds (like bleach), petroleum distillates, phenols and formaldehyde, amongst a growing list of harmful chemicals. All these products have pretty safe alternatives, including ones you can mix yourself from readily available natural ingredients such as vinegar, baking soda, lemon juice and olive oil. The recipes for the different jobs can be found in Georgia Strait Alliance’s Guide to Green Boating, which can be downloaded free of charge at www.GeorgiaStrait.org. For those who don’t want to mix their own concoctions, there are a number of commercially available products to do the job with reduced environmental harm. The best way to identify which ones to use is to look for the term “Non Toxic” and even better, that it has been acknowledged as safe under Environment Canada’s Environmental Choice Ecologo program, distinctive with its three doves in a maple leaf design. Following the advice in the Guide to Green Boating is very helpful, because labelling on products can be confusing. For example, many products use the term “biodegradable” which can sometimes be deceiving, just like the term ”recyclable.” Being biodegradable just means that the product will break down into its individual components over time and return to nature. The trick question is how long will it take and how environmentally harmful are the process and the end products? Sometimes what the product

breaks down into is worse than the initial product! This information is not normally readily available, so it’s buyer (and marine ecosystems) beware! What does “clean” really mean? Another way to reduce the potential harm of grey water discharges is to look even further than what we put down our drains to how much we put down them. Often the recommended amounts of product to use are excessive and a much smaller amount will do the job just fine. For example, for many people, only one wash with shampoo is necessary and the term “repeat” can be ignored, especially if you are using “soft” water. It is also worth noting that all surfactants (the ingredients that make the bubbles) can harm fish and other marine life no matter what their source, so using only what is necessary is critical. Another question to ask ourselves: how often does the job need to be done? Cleaning product advertisers have managed to perpetuate a myth that bright, white and totally sanitized is always best, therefore we must clean things regularly whether they need it or not. Perhaps it’s worth taking the time to appreciate what is around us out on the water and take less time cleaning something that just may not need it. When it comes to cleaning our motherships, it’s worth asking the question “What does clean really mean?” Do I want just a clean mothership or a clean and healthy ocean to kayak in too? Sometimes the answer to this is not black and white but quite grey as well. Mike Richards is a lifelong, avid boater and paddler and is a Program Coordinator with the Georgia Strait Alliance. [email protected] Marine Pump Out Station Locations British Columbia: www.sanidumps.com/marinepumpout_cdn_bc.php California: www.pumpoutstations.com Oregon: www.boatoregon.com/OSMB/library/docs/CVA-Pumpouts.pdf Washington: http://dcm2.enr.state.nc.us/Marinas/pumplist.htm 

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Kayaking in Paradise GULF ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK RESERVE by Hans Tammemagi

I

was Robinson Crusoe with an entire island to myself. I explored trails through the towering Douglas fir forest and sat on rocky points. I listened to birds chirping and waves splashing, took photographs and lazed on a sun-warmed rock by the beacon watching huge ocean freighters plow through Haro Strait. I was on Rum Island in the middle of a three-day solo kayak trip, luxuriating in solitude and immersed in the soft beauty of the southern Gulf Islands. Earlier that morning I had launched at Otter Bay, Pender Island, as part of my on-going quest to explore the recently created (2003) Gulf Islands National Park Reserve. My first stop, Roesland on North Pender, a former resort site for over 70 years, took only a few minutes to reach. I lingered in the museum, gazed at an eagle’s nest balanced high on a Douglas fir and strolled a path amongst the twisted, colorful arbutus trees on Roe Islet, a strong candidate for the prettiest walk in the islands. Then I started the long crossing of Swanson Channel with one stroke following another in a gentle hypnotic rhythm. A snort sounded and a seal’s smooth head popped out of the water to monitor my progress. I was happy to be one with the watery domain, enjoying this unique and fragile ecosystem formed by Canada’s only Mediterranean climate. On the privately owned Moresby Island, “No Trespassing” signs glared down from the shore and I was thankful for the National Park Reserve, which allows kayakers and boaters to enjoy a paradise of 15 islands and over 65 islets in one of the most beautiful and accessible archipelagos in the world. I entered Prevost Passage. Slowly Rum Island (also known as Isle de Lis) grew larger, and soon I was hauling my kayak up on the beach, the solitary human on the island. I pitched my tent on a designated spot in the small camping area, for this terrain is fragile and is one of the most ecologically at risk areas in Canada. As the day closed, I sat on a knoll and watched the fading light shimmer on the water. Four seals frolicked in the darkening bay. A distant lighthouse started to wink. I awoke to a light mist hanging over the water and islands adorned with clouds. Wetness gleamed on the smooth orange 20

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bark of an arbutus tree, raindrops hung like pearls from pine branches, pools of water caught in rock depressions reflected tall trees and a cloudy sky. I felt an exhilarating connection with nature. When the tidal currents turned to flood, I set off, careful to pack out everything I had packed in. Paddling toward the northwest, a gentle zephyr caressed my back and the water was silvery and calm. I paddled lazily past several islands, a blue heron flapped its ungainly wings and a lighthouse was mirrored upside down in the water. Emerging from behind an island, the kayak suddenly veered, and the once smooth water was full of eddies and swirls. It was a lesson. Even on these seemingly quiet, protected waters, tidal currents, especially where channels narrow, have significant power. I tried to picture the immense rivers of water flowing below the surface, connected globally and governed by that celestial body, the moon. I was humbled to think how small we humans are in the face of these large and mysterious cosmic forces. I paddled on, floating sensually with the waves and the spirit of the ocean. I passed Reay and Imrie Islets where seals were hauled out and mingled with cormorants, gulls, murrelets and other seabirds. My map indicated that these islets are Special Preservation Areas within the park and that boaters and kayakers should remain 100 metres/yards off shore. I arrived at Portland Island and coasted onto a dazzling white beach formed by broken clam shells, the remains of thousands of years of habitation by Coast Salish First Nations. Once again I was Crusoe, alone to explore. I followed a path around the island, passing coves with jumbles of bleached driftwood pushed high up on rocky beaches. Little meadows were resplendent with fresh dewy grass, tiny purple and yellow wildflowers and rocks capped by dark green mosses. I passed an old apple orchard, its gnarled, moss-covered trees a reminder that Portland was settled in the 1880s by Kanaka (Hawaiian) immigrants. In the evening I watched the purple and blue hues above the horizon. To the northwest I could discern Russell Island, also part of the Park Reserve, which contains the remnants of a Hawaiian homestead occupied from 1902 to 1936, and I silently made plans to visit it. Next morning I loaded up and pushed off the perfect white beach. Three otters, their long tails snaking through the water, swam beside me for a short stretch, bidding me farewell. All too soon I was back at Pender Island. It was not long before a friend and I pushed off again, this time heading northeast to explore Saturna Island, over 40% of which is National Park Reserve. We were lured by Taylor Point, accessible only from the water, where beauty and history mingle. Near the point the sandstone cliffs have been lovingly sculpted by wind and sea into delicate lacework whorls of beige and yellow. Capping this artwork is a magnificent stand of Garry oaks, which are found only in southwestern BC and are the most threatened ecosystem in Canada. We turned into the bay where George and Anne Taylor established a farm and a sandstone quarry in 1892. The ruins of their stone house

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remain, the thick walls highlighted by yellow leaves and green hills. Ghosts walked beside us as we explored overgrown rocks in the silent forest and found drill holes in rock faces, rusting iron works and other traces of a once busy quarry. Another day, my friend and I paddled from Pender Island to Prevost Island. Although we timed our crossing to avoid the big BC ferries that ply the waters between Victoria and Vancouver, a smaller Gulf Islands ferry steaming out of Navy Channel surprised us. We stopped to let it pass and were lifted high in its wake. Circling the island clockwise, we wandered amongst Prevost’s long, narrow bays, then lunched at James Bay with its camping area and surrounding orchards. At Hawkins Islet, an eagle posed nobly, high on a tall fir, while below on the reefs dozens of seals lolled in the late afternoon sun. Paddling homeward we planned trips to other places in the Park Reserve. I was intrigued by D’Arcy Island, where from 1891, Chinese lepers lived in isolation with supplies dropped off four times a year. Another unique place, Sidney Spit, with its long, narrow hook spit and inner lagoon, is a cornucopia of shorebirds during spring and fall migrations. Beaumont Park on our own Pender Island beckoned with its nearby hike up Mount Norman. My friend was drawn by Narvaez Bay on Saturna Island and the adjacent Tumbo Island, which has seen fur farming, timbering and coal mining, and is also an important Native spiritual place. With the horizon behind us turning into fiery oranges and vermilions we drifted into the bay, weary but already looking forward to our next outing.

Gulf Islands National Park Reserve Information Kayak trips: Specific trips are not listed here because there are too many options. Good departure points for single or multi-day trips are (be sure to consult detailed maps): 1) Swartz Bay ferry terminal. From near the terminal you can paddle to Portland and Russell Islands. Go south of Sidney to launch for Sidney Spit, D’Arcy and Rum Islands. 2) Otter Bay ferry terminal on Pender Island. Roesland is nearby. Drive to different beach accesses to launch for Beaumont or to cross to Prevost or Saturna Islands. 3) Lyall Harbour terminal, Saturna Island. Go from the terminal (or drive to closer beach accesses) to Taylor Point, Tumbo and Cabbage Islands or Georgina Point on Mayne Island. Note: at present there is no camping on Saturna. Basic camping areas: Beaumont, Pender Island; D’Arcy Island; Portland Island; James Bay, Prevost Island; Rum Island. Moorage, mooring buoys and/or dinghy dock: Sidney Spit; Beaumont, Pender Island; Cabbage Island; Arbutus Point and Princess Bay, Portland Island. Protect the Park: No campfires are permitted. Do not disturb or feed wildlife. Camp only in designated spots. Keep 100 metres from islets. Leave no trace of your visit. Information: Get brochures, maps and information from Parks Canada offices in Sidney, Pender Island, Saturna Island. Call 250-654-4000 or 866-944-1744. www.pc.gc.ca/gulf Emergencies: Within the park reserve call 877-852-3100. 

Gulf Islands

national park reserve of canada réserve de parc national du canada des

Îles-Gulf Easy to get there...impossible to forget Facile d'accès...mémorable à souhait

www.pc.gc.ca

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Kayaking Rituals for the New Year by Neil Schulman

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n the Grand Canyon, rafters kiss a rock called Vulcan’s Anvil to ensure a safe run through Lava Falls. Since we’re close to the turn of the year, it’s time to offer some new paddling “traditions.” Here are new ways to appreciate the sea, keep your group together, build your paddling skills and have fun. Play Weatherman You’re out on a multi-day trip. Instead of hovering over the VHF forecast, spend the day watching the weather—cloud and fog patterns, wind direction, sea state—and guess what will happen the next day. Then listen to the forecast for the next day, and watch the conditions. See if you’re right or wrong. This will help you understand the clues, so you can interpret the weather and know what’s coming while you’re on the water. Whoever’s guess is closest doesn’t have to wash dishes that night. Blessed Are the Swimmers Some old Scottish whitewater buddies had a rule that if you swam a rapid, you had to buy the first round of beer afterwards. Unfortunately, this heaped shame on the swimmers—those who had pushed their limits. So, I propose the reverse tradition. If you swim, you get free beer (or whatever your post-paddle reward may be). This way there’s another incentive to explore the edges of your comfort zone, see what happens, and not worry so much about staying upright or blowing the occasional roll. And it gives the rest of your group a chance to practice rescue skills—something we all need to do more often. Swim In The Surf At the beginning of a surf class, a friend of mine got the whole group to swim around in the surf. It helped everyone get a feel for the behavior of waves, but more importantly, it got us all over the shock of the first wave blasting cold saltwater in our faces. Inaugurate your ’08 surf sessions with a dunking—sans boat. 22

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The Post-Lunch Huddle Afternoon is usually when problems happen on the water. Conditions often worsen, people are tired, and there’s often a “horse smelling the barn” phenomenon. I’ve seen many groups that are very cohesive in the morning, only to break down after lunch. The usual reasons are getting spread out, failure to communicate a plan, and splitting into small subgroups. From here things can deteriorate quickly: a rescue is needed, but the group is separated, so help isn’t available. Or a part of the group goes astray and has to be chased down. Don’t let it happen to you. Most groups have a pre-paddle huddle to discuss plans and contingencies, but few do so again after lunch. Make it a habit and avoid the afternoon snafus before they happen. The Tow Game An old paddling group used to play a game in which we’d try to attach our towlines to the bow or stern of someone else’s kayak—entitling you to a tow—while also trying to avoid someone else attaching to you. This exercise keeps you on your toes, and provides some fun mayhem and boat control practice. It also provides practice of a key skill: attaching a tow system quickly. This is essential when moving a rescue that is running out of sea room, and where seconds spent fumbling with your tow system can be costly. With this game you’ll hone the skill and have fun doing it. Trade Boats and Paddles We spend hours outfitting our cockpits until they fit us well, and we calibrate our paddles to our preferred length, grip and feather angle. This is a great process, since fit helps us control our kayaks and prevent injuries. But if we take it too far, we short-circuit learning. Paddling the same boat with the same paddle all the time can generate great performance in carefully controlled circumstances. But it also creates ineffectiveness as soon as something new is introduced. This is closed-loop learning. By contrast, open-loop learning is the ability to adjust to different circumstances, different gear, and still paddle well. So swap boats and paddles. Can you move your boat around with half a paddle? Try and find out. Dawn Patrol There’s no better feeling than being afloat for the sunrise. It’s a ritual best done alone, if conditions permit. You can start the day with your own thoughts, and with the rhythm of smooth paddle strokes. Summer’s warmer, but late winter sunrises give

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you more shut-eye. You may grumble when the alarm goes off, but you’ll be delighted once the morning is underway. Bioluminescence Some of my most mind-blowing paddling experiences involve paddling at night through a sea exploding with green sparkling bioluminescence. Bioluminescence or seasparkle, is caused by the tiny dinoflagellate Noctiluca scintillans. When moving water disturbs them they emit flashes of light. When millions of the little critters are present, the result is glowing green whirlpools following each paddle stroke, the paths of schools of fish or a breaking wave. Wait for a moonless night, and head out, hoping for some glowing plankton. Rolling with a dive mask will be astounding. Jimi Hendrix optional. Thank the Sea Every time my paddle hits water, I am thankful that I live in a world still inhabited by eagles, salmon, whales and countless other living things. Being thankful is one thing, and acting on that thanks is the next step. For each time you paddle, dedicate some time—an hour a paddle—to doing something that protects the areas you play in. Connect with conservation groups, contribute money and write letters to folks who make the key decisions. In fact, that’s how we got protected places to begin with.

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Think Like A River Otter Anyone who’s watched river otters in the wild knows that they seem to spend most of their time playing. They splash around madly in the water, slide down muddy banks, and frolic through their daily routine of catching fish. While surviving in the wild is no picnic, otters somehow remember to have fun. We kayakers, absorbed in our gear, technique and trip planning, can sometimes forget that. So remember to goof off, wear absurd hats, horse around, and don’t take kayaking too seriously. See you on the water in 2008. Neil Schulman lives in Oregon, where he strives to combine the playfulness of a river otter with the writing, photography and paddling skills of a human.

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fishing angles

by Dan Armitage

Exercising the Angling Option

T

his is a new column for WaveLength, and I hope to do justice to the space that Diana and Ron have dedicated to the subject of fishing from kayaks. The numbers certainly justify it: the popularity of fishing from paddle-powered watercraft, and kayaks in particular, is a phenomenon that even industry experts did not anticipate, and the activity now represents one of the fastest growing segments of sport fishing across North America. If you’re aboard, and already combine fishing and kayaking, you likely “get” it and understand the fever that’s spreading from coast to coast. Chances are, the information I will be sharing in this column might be a bit basic to those of you already wetting a line from your cockpit on a regular basis. Bear with me; I’ll try to share tips each issue that may even benefit the veteran angler. But if you find that I am speaking to a level you’ve left in your wake, please peruse the web sites I share below; you’ll find plenty of advanced kayak angling information for the fishing fanatic in you!

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Likewise, I’ll not be dedicating many words to tactics for taking specific gamefish species in specific places. There are plenty of resources available—both in print and online—that share regional techniques and specialized tackle for catching a particular species of fish. Most will work just as well from the cockpit of a kayak as from the deck of a traditional fishing boat. And that leads me to one of the keys to kayak fishing’s popularity: any fish that you can catch from boat or shore can be caught from a kayak. That goes for everything from inland perch to pelagic billfish. To use the words of offshore kayak fishing aficionado Ric Hawthorne, So Cal angler and marketing rep for Okuma Fishing Tackle, “The beauty of fishing from a kayak is its inherent simplicity. It can be as basic as simply taking a rod and reel along with your paddle.” On the other hand, if gadgets and gear are what “float your boat,” you certainly won’t be disappointed by all the angling accessories now available for custom rigging kayaks for fishing. From floating fishing rods to PFDs that double as tackle vests, there are even lines of angling attire—both technical and trendy—designed for ’yakers who seek to fool fish. Getting back to the basics: any kayak you currently own can be used for fishing. That includes sit-in as well as sit-on-top (SOT) models. The latter is the style-of-choice for most kayak anglers, but sit-in designs have their following as well, especially in areas where the angling may take place in cold, inclement weather.

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Some of the common arguments in favor of sit-on-tops include: easier boarding and off-loading from beach, shore, dock, water or mothership; no swamping—and the resulting pumpout—when tipped over; more surface area for mounting accessories; more available storage space; and more maneuverability aboard, allowing the angler to move forward or backward, reach accessories, and sit side-saddle while fishing. But again, any kayak can be used for fishing. Ditto the tackle you may already have on hand. Granted, fly fishermen may face a learning curve until they learn to get a little more air under their back-casts from the low-to-the-water platform, but the under-the-radar approach offered by the lowprofile craft compensates for the shorter casts that may, or may not, result. If you already own traditional spinning, spin-casting or baitcasting tackle—and the basic skills to use it—you’re good to go. The tactics you may already employ to catch fish from traditional boat, dock, beach or bank will work from a paddledriven plastic (or canvas, or wood) platform. In fact, that’s just what the experts suggest that neophyte ’yak anglers do: go to the same places you catch fish from shore or conventional watercraft, use the same tackle, baits and tactics, but do it from the deck or cockpit of your kayak. Yes, it will take some adapting, and no, you might not be as successful as when you fish using your conventional approach, at least at first. But just as you learned to be comfortable atop the water in your kayak, you will eventually find the same comfort zone when fishing from our favorite style of watercraft. And that’s when the fun begins.

Four Excellent Kayak Fishing Web Sites* Plasticnavy.com Texaskayakfisherman.com Kayaksportfishing.com Kayakfishingstuff.com *There are dozens of other good web sites on the subject, many regional in nature, but these are a start. Following links available at each of the above will lead you anywhere you care to paddle angling-wise. Next Issue: Basic Fishing Tackle and Tactics 

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Bahamian Fishing SOUTH ANDROS ISLAND

by Ben Mumford

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outh Andros is a wonderfully pristine island with white sand beaches and clear, turquoise water. Located the furthest south and east in the Bahamian group, it is scarcely populated with only 1800 people, most living on the northeast side of the island. The southern part of South Andros is made up of cays and shallow estuaries. There are miles of canals and creeks that could provide weeks of swimming, snorkeling, sun worshipping and exploring by kayak. However, we took a look at South Andros from the kayak angler’s perspective. There are two completely different kinds of fishing experiences possible on the island—deep-sea fishing near a vertical reef unlike any in the world, and inshore fishing in the creeks where lies the illusive bonefish (Albula vulpes).

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Although bonefish are not considered good to eat, and catch-and-release is the usual practice, hooking one of these translucent fish, known as the “white ghost,” will likely be the ultimate thrill for most avid kayak anglers—and South Andros is one of the best places on the planet to find them. Bonefish grow up to 22 pounds in weight and 3.4 feet in length. They spook very easily, but put up a fight to rival any sport fish. Anglers catch bonefish with a fly, however, you generally have to spot the fish first and then place your fly directly over the fish to be successful. This operation of placing your fly must be done with utmost care, as the fish will detect any movement on your part and quickly vacate. This game of cat and mouse can take hours. If you have tried unsuccessfully to hook into a bonefish from your kayak, guides will take you out in a very shallow skiff and spot the fish for you. You sit and wait for the guide to quietly tell you where to place your fly—“30 yards and 10 o’clock off the starboard bow”—then you try to place your fly exactly there. This is a very intense fishing experience, and guaranteed to make you focus your attention and forget anything else that’s going on in your life. The other type of amazing fishing available to the kayaker on South Andros is deep-sea kayak fishing, made possible thanks to the US military. The tongue of the sea, as it is called, is a trench that splits the Bahamas. Between the Exuma group and South Andros lies 60 miles of water. However, just a mile and half off the beach, the depth is over 6000 feet. After World War II, six military bases were set up along this trench to test subma-

JANUARY–MARCH 2008

rine warfare, and a buoy was installed two miles off Mangrove Cay in 6000 feet of water. Over time, this installation created a vertical, artificial reef. Coral adhered to the cable, encouraging bait fish and deeper water fish up the water column to feed. Predatory fish such as barracuda and tuna followed, making this one of the very few places on Earth where you can jig for tuna. So if the idea of hooking into a 30 pound fish from your kayak excites you, this is the place. We took a guide boat out to the buoy, as the two-mile paddle wasn’t in our schedule, and because being towed around by a 40 pound fish for an hour also wasn’t on the agenda. Having the guide boat to assist if such a thing were to happen adds a certain amount of comfort to the operation. I spent 45 minutes jigging for a fish with no luck. Fortunately, on the way out to the buoy we had put out trolling gear behind the guide boat and in the 20 minute trip we hooked a 50 pound Wahoo tuna and a 15 pound barracuda—apparently my trolling skills are better than my jigging skills. Roggie, the guide boat operator who took us to all the cool spots, is a great guide and provided an awesome experience. He operates a 25 foot prowler cat with twin outboards, and he was expecting a new 30 foot boat to arrive any day when we were there—both great expedition boats to get you well into the creeks to go after the fabulous bone fish. Roggie offers deepsea fishing packages as well as day trip expeditions for kayakers. Daily expeditions are very reasonably priced, and for the amount of information you get out of the operator, it is worth every penny. Roggie will load your kayaks aboard the boat, take you to the best fishing spots on the island, unload your boats

and keep a watchful eye out for you. He anchors and waits as you paddle through the shallows to the best fishing hole, and when you’re ready for home or want to change locales, he is there waiting. Travel Information Ripple Effect Charters (www.rippleeffectcharters.com) – did a great job of getting us to South Andros and setting up our tours Andros Beach Club (www.androsbeachclub.com) – self sufficient accommodation in an historic fishing lodge Emerald Palms Resort (www.emerald-palms.com) – wonderful pool, elegant rooms, spa and restaurant Reel Tight Charters (www.mwpr.com/reeltight.html) – great fishing guide 

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kayak review

by Alex Matthews

photo by Rochelle Relyea

Trak T-1600 Sea Kayak

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ing the frame inside its skin easy and also opens up the stern quickly for loading gear into the boat. Assembly time on the first attempt was a leisurely 20 – 25 minutes and felt very intuitive. With practice, the company’s claimed one-minute assembly seems quite attainable.

photo by Ron Mumford

A

few weeks ago a large golf bag was delivered to my front door. “Strange,” I thought—I don’t golf. On closer examination, the bag contained no golf clubs at all. Instead, a folding, skin-on-frame kayak lurked within. The boat in question is the T-1600– the first offering from the new Calgarybased company: Trak Kayaks. The aforementioned travel pack for the kayak is very stylish, with sturdy wheels on the bottom of the bag and a well-positioned handle that makes wheeling the pack around easy. Trak has also striven to deliver a complete package. As well as the kayak and its nice travel pack, float bags and a wellmade spray skirt are also included, along with comprehensive instructions and a DVD on putting the boat together and taking it apart again. The T-1600 proved to be the fastest and easiest folding boat to assemble that I have yet encountered. Like a number of other folders, the Trak is constructed from a tubular aluminum frame that slides into a fabric skin. A large zipperlike closure on the stern deck makes slid-

One big difference between the T1600 and other kayaks is that the design incorporates three hydraulic jacks into the frame. The jacks, located in front of the seat, help to tension the skin during assembly but also allow the basic shape of the boat to be changed, generating JANUARY–MARCH 2008

different handling characteristics. One jack adjusts the length of the tubing of the keel (centerline of the bottom of the hull) and the other two adjust the length of the tubing on the left and right sides of the boat. The result is that the paddler can choose to introduce more rocker (make the boat more banana shaped in profile) for far greater maneuverability, or keep it flatter for easier paddling in a straight line. Or the boat can be hooked to the left or right, in order to compensate for changing conditions like wind or current. In theory, all this can be done from the cockpit while underway. So how did it paddle? Well, that depended entirely on how the hydraulics were set. And that’s pretty cool. While it’s great fun playing with the rocker—going from a “tracky” kayak to one which will turn very easily—trying to get the boat feeling truly straight down the centerline was a little more frustrating. I would have loved to somehow have a couple of default settings that I could always return to, like presets on a car radio. It’s also pretty hard to access the side jacks while underway because the paddler’s legs rest against the jacks when gripping the kayak. Generally, I found that I would set the boat straight down the centerline, and then simply edge and compensate with paddle strokes for prevailing conditions just the way I would with any other kayak. In fact, my prediction is that sooner or later Trak will offer a rudder as an option. The variable rocker aspect worked much better for me. It is definitely fun to play with, although I did tend to arrive at a personal preferred setting and leave things there until I hit surf or particularly tights quarters that had me cranking the rocker way up. Stability of the Trak is moderate, and experienced paddlers felt very comfort-

able while heavier novices felt a little cautious. The fit is pretty good and I had folks from 140 pounds to 230 pounds paddling the boat. A pair of adjustable thigh braces can be installed onto the coaming, and once adjusted to my tastes, these really transformed the kayak for me. Initially I couldn’t get a good grip on the boat with my legs, but with the braces in place I could confidently edge, brace and roll easily. With limited rocker dialed in, the Trak has decent speed and feels efficient on the water. While the Trak isn’t huge and can’t swallow vast quantities of gear, it’s eminently suitable for day trips and shorter multi-day outings. A sea-sock is an essential addition for anyone who plans to venture into rough water. With limited time to assess a product, durability is always a tough issue to address. The added complexity of the hydraulic jacks does call into question the system’s ability to stand up to longterm exposure to the corrosive effects of salt water. Only time will tell. The shell material itself is certainly tough: doubled up along the keel line, it proved burly enough to put up with all the scrapes and scratches that I inflicted on it. Trak has entered the market with an innovative boat that assembles remarkably easily, and in record time. Paddling performance is good and can be tweaked on the fly, both for personal preference or to better meet conditions. While the price is high, the ease of assembly and unique adjustable rocker make the Trak a serious contender for anyone in the market for a full-feature folding sea kayak.

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Trak Kayaks T-1600 Length: 16 ft / 4.88 m Width: 22.50 in / 57.15 cm Weight: 47 lbs / 21.32 kg Cockpit size: 16.5 x31.75 in/41.91x80.65 cm Weight in pack: 58 lbs/26.31 kg Pack Size: 52x17x15 in/132.08x43.18x38.10 cm Colors: Green Deck with White Hull or Gold Deck with White Hull Suggested Retail: $5,495 USD Trak Kayaks Phone: 1.888.35.KAYAK (355-2925) Email: [email protected] Web: www.rethinkkayak.com  JANUARY–MARCH 2008

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product review

by Adam Bolonsky

WindPaddle Kayak Sail photos by Nick Wiltz

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here are plenty of good reasons to rig a kayak with a sail. The most obvious is speed. In winds of ten knots or more, most kayakers would be hard pressed to keep up with a kayak sailing downwind, even if the chasing paddler is an accomplished chop hopper willing to soak up the sweat that fast, downwind paddling requires. As he or she grunts and accelerates off each wave, the kayak under sail scuds along, always one boat length ahead. On longer trips and expeditions, a sail can be a valuable addition for more reasons than speed. If bad weather delays you and the next leg of the trip is downwind, you can rig the sail and off you go, easily making up with speed the time you lost. In this scenario, the advantages of a sail multiply because you’ve got free hands—to make a VHF radio or satellite phone call, run the GPS, read relative angles or angles-off-the-bow to keep track of where you are and where you’re going, eat a sandwich, run the desalinator, or set up the solar charger, etc. There are lots of kayak sail rig options out there, ranging from the complex to the simple. Some—most often affixed to doubles owned by outfitters—have semi-permanent aluminum masts stationed amidships with a sloop’s recognizable right triangle sail. Other sails are simple, free-floating affairs akin to tarps, several metres square, often sent aloft by a lashed pod of kayaks and with lines at each corner attached to paddles. The sail hovers above the kayaks like a cloud, pulling the pod along. (Here’s a link to a video of one of these sails in action: http://paddlingtravelers.blogspot.com/2007/10/sailing-fourkayak-pod.html)

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Finally, there are single-kayak foredeck-rigged sails. These are typically V-shaped, with wishbone masts holding a rigid sail aloft—a sort of upside-down wedge, jutting up from the foredeck and resembling two fingers making a peace sign inside a sandwich bag. Sometimes those masts, small as they might be (about the length and stiffness of a two-piece paddle) are somewhat unwieldy. They have to be stored when not in use, tend to clutter the deck, and need to be lashed down. (Here’s a link to one of those sails in action: http://paddlingtravelers.blogspot. com/2007/12/sailing-kayak-solo.html) Rudder control on such sailed kayaks is optional; the majority require little more than a paddle deployed bow-rudder or low-brace turn style for steering. Still another type uses fixed rudders and larboards, and can be sailed both across and upwind, effectively turning the kayak into a sailboat, a style seen mostly on folding kayaks like Folbots and Kleppers. Nick Wiltz, who lives in the kiteboarding/sailboarding mecca of Hood River, Oregon, has come up with a new design, the WindPaddle, that solves many of the problems associated with kayak sails—the bulk, the hassles of foredeck storage, the overbig presence—in a unique way. His sail, like any kayak sail useful in wind ranging from moderate to fresh, requires mast support. His take on the mast, though, is a circular loop, configured from stiff but flexible, virtually unbreakable plastic. Having attached the packed WindPaddle to your foredeck lines, when it’s time to sail, you slip the figure-eight-shaped rig from its mesh bag, untie the questionably designed compression strap (more on that later), and let go. The sail pops open like a

JANUARY–MARCH 2008

sapling released from a stake in the ground. That’s it. Grasp the sail’s sheets, which double as stays, and you’re sailing. Sailors have a couple of tactics for dealing with gusts: shift weight to windward (not very easy in a kayak) or ease the sheets. Because the WindPaddle’s mast is made of flexible plastic, it has great tolerance for gusts. If the wind is strong, the mast bends, spilling air so you never lose control of the sail. When the gust subsides, the mast straightens. Nice. In tests on a local lake well known here in Massachusetts for its gustiness, the WindPaddle worked just fine. Running downwind, overall speed was impressive: about 5.5 knots, 6.0 in sustained gusts. When the wind topped out at about 18 knots and thicker whitecaps leapt up around the kayak, the mast bent, spilling the gust. The WindPaddle is also unique in that it’s the only foredeck sail I’ve seen that’s round rather than wedge or diamond shaped. The result is a sail lower to the foredeck yet wider than most. To deal with the inevitable visibility problems that arise from a sail on the foredeck, the center of the WindPaddle is made of the same clear plastic that speckles the luffs and feet of sailboat racing sails. Overall construction is quite good: strong, durable nylon stitches that encase the circular mast with fat seams, and extra stitching at stress points. Nick comes from an area where high performance Dacron and Mylar sails have been designed for decades, and his attention to sail making shows: no loose threads, extra fabric at stress points, rip-stop nylon, flat seams, sedged edges. This is a sail that will last as long as its owner, with the caveat that, like all sail fabrics, it will weaken if left exposed to sunlight for too long. The sail does have some quirks that will vex a new owner. Although the sail is easy to deploy, thanks to its coiled mast, recoiling it is wholly counterintuitive. You want to bend the mast but can’t. Instead, you twist it. Unfortunately Nick’s in-package support materials are lacking: a few hard-to-follow photos and some perfunctory text that does a poor job of explaining that the trick to putting the sail back into the bag is to twist it. I had to call Nick for instructions, watch the online video (www.windpaddle.com/stowing_sail.htm), then ask my girlfriend Yvonne, who has a lot of experience dealing with biases in fabric, to get the trick down. Turns out all it takes is a simple twist of the wrists, like coiling a rope, but that twist isn’t easy to figure out. Do it right, though, and you end up with a sail and mast that fit neatly into a mesh bag about the size of a newspaper. That trick of coiling, not bending, took me over two hours to discover.

A final quirk is that the sail’s compression strap, a short nylon cord, goes flying off into the air, and overboard, like a spring from a broken capstan, as soon as you release it. And without that compression strap, keeping the sail compressed while you coil its mast is like trying to hold together two giant magnets pointed the wrong way at each other. Anyone who wants to improve their kayaking should give kayak sailing a try, and perhaps for reasons more valuable than fast downwind running. Sailing is a miles-burner, but it is also a fine way to observe and anticipate the changes in wind speed and direction that affect the waters we paddle. Wind exerts the largest influence on sea conditions; it generates most of the swell, waves and rough water we learn to savor or avoid. Learn to sail your kayak and you’ll become that much more adept at reading the wind’s power and its particular seasonal trends and quirks in your paddling area. With Nick’s reasonably-priced sail (under $200 US) standing in as tutor, you’ll learn how to assess, read, and anticipate what those winds are up to, and thus too the sea state you’re sure to encounter.

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www.windpaddle.com Colors: Blue/White/Blue, Red/White/Red MSRP: $165 (Adventure Mark II) 

Nick’s Note The new model of our product (called the WindPaddle Adventure Mark II) will be released in late January 2008. Adam tested the WindPaddle Adventure Mark I. There are several significant improvements to the design, including the elimination of the detached compression strap and the attached paddle pocket/bag. The WindPaddle Adventure Mark II comes with an attached strap that won’t fly off, and which simply loops around the coiled sail rather than compressing it. This design improvement is much easier and more convenient to use than the compression strap of the Mark I. The WindPaddle Adventure Mark II also comes with a much larger window with a new horizontal orientation for an increased wide-angle field of vision. Expanded color choices and a lighter overall weight are also new improvements. We’ll retain the Mark I model for those who also want to fly the sail like the “Sport” model from the blade of a paddle, but for most users, the WindPaddle Adventure Mark II is clearly the model to own!

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skillset

by Alex Matthews

The 3 Golden Rules

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he “3 Golden Rules” are a set of rules that should be applied to your paddling mechanics regardless of what type of kayaking you intend to do. Adhering to these three basic concepts will give you a great advantage, especially when paddling in tougher conditions. With good mechanics, you will always be in a strong, supple position, which will allow you to paddle smoothly with power, and protect your shoulders too.

#1

Co-operative Division of the Body

The co-operative division of the body refers to the concept of letting your upper and lower bodies work co-operatively yet independently from each other. For example, your upper body may be actively driving your kayak forward, while your lower body holds your boat on edge. Similarly, your boat may rock from edge to edge in choppy water while your upper body stays upright. This co-operative division of work is essential to edging, bracing, rolling and all other advanced paddling techniques.

#2

Maintaining a Power Position with Your Arms

Sea kayaking can expose a paddler to the powerful forces of moving water, and unfortunately injuries can occur. The most common injuries are relatively minor ones like blisters or mild tendinitis, but shoulder dislocation is a serious injury that is all too common in the surf zone. One of the best ways to prevent shoulder injury is to maintain a “power position” with your arms. The power position simply involves keeping your hands in front of your body. Another way to think of this is that your arms, chest and paddle form a box when you hold your paddle out in front of you, and you should maintain this box when taking any type of stroke. This doesn’t mean that you can’t reach to the back of your boat to take a stroke. But it does mean that in order to do so, you’ll need to rotate your whole upper body so that your hand stays in front of you. This act of rotating the upper body is fittingly named torso rotation. Not only does this keep your shoulders safe, it also lets you harness the most power for your strokes, which is why it’s the third Golden Rule.

#3

Torso Rotation

Your paddle strokes should use much more than just your arm and shoulder muscles. You need to use the power of your whole body. Torso Rotation is the way to get your front and side stomach muscles involved with your strokes. With good rotation, you should be working your latissimus dorsi muscles, or “lats,” too. Using these larger muscles will let you paddle harder, faster and for longer. 

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mothership options

Alaska on the Home Shore

For people who would like to paddle from the comfort of a guided mothership, we offer this information about some of the ships operating on the Pacific coast. These companies draw on experience and local knowledge to create unique experiences for their guests.

Vessel: Home Shore Length: 62 feet Sale or Power: Power Area(s): BC’s Inside Passage, Alaska’s Misty Fjords, Glacier Bay, and all of northern Southeast Alaska. Port(s) of Departure: Sitka, Juneau, Petersburg Number of Guests: 6 Length of Trip: 8 days, 7 nights Cost per Person: $2900 – $3800 Home Shore, a classic wooden commercial vessel, is your base for fully-guided kayaking in wilderness lagoons, barrier islands, sea arches, and secret passages. We have decades of working experience in these waters. Experience whales, bears, calving glaciers, hotsprings. Your tour includes private staterooms, unmatched cuisine, and a family ambience. www.homeshore.com [email protected] 800-287-7063(01)

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JANUARY–MARCH 2008

Vessel: Anvil Cove

Anvil Cove Charters

Length: 53 feet Sail or Power: Both Area(s): Haida Gwaii/Queen Charlotte Islands Port(s) of Departure: Queen Charlotte Number of Guests: 6 Length of Trip: 6 to 10 days Cost per Person: $2200 – $3000 Kayak mothership tours of Haida Gwaii/ Queen Charlotte Islands. Great kayaking while exploring these Islands renowned for their rich and diverse cultural and natural history. Visit ancient Haida villages and old-growth temperature rainforests, watch for eagles, bears, seabirds, whales and other wildlife in this spectacular pristine archipelago. www.queencharlottekayaking.com [email protected] 250-559-8207

Vessel: Island Bay

Archipelago Ventures

Length: 42 feet Sail or Power: Power Area(s): Gwaii Haanas National Park Port(s) of Departure: Fly with South Moresby Air Number of Guests: 5 Length of Trip: 6 days Cost per Person: $1950 Nourish the body, mind and spirit with a sixday wilderness adventure aboard the Island Bay – a 42 foot motor vessel, fully licensed and equipped for touring and mothership kayaking. Our trips focus on both learning and fun! Experience spectacular old-growth forests, riparian ecosystems, Haida cultural heritage, wildlife viewing, natural hot springs and fabulous kayaking. www.TourHaidaGwaii.com [email protected] 250-882-4914

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Kayak Transport Company

Vessel: Abyssinia Length: 65 feet Sale or Power: Power Area(s): Southeast Alaska Port(s) of Departure: Sitka, Juneau, Petersburg, Ketchikan Number of Guests: 4 – 6 Length of Trip: 8 days, 7 nights Cost per Person: $2500 US The dream week for experienced kayakers. Explore the beautiful waters and shores of Southeast Alaska, and return to the mothership for hot showers and catch-of-the day meals. Most of our customers come back for more. www.kayaktransport.com [email protected] 206-719-0976

Misty Isles Adventures

Vessel: Misty Isles Length: 43 feet Sail or Power: Both Area(s): Desolation Sound and the Discovery Islands Port(s) of Departure: Cortes Island and Lund Number of Guests: 12 (day trips), 6 (multiday) Length of Trip: 1 – 6 days Cost per Person: $1130 (4 day trip) This trip has it all! Kayaking, sailing and hiking in one of the most spectacular wilderness areas on the whole BC coast. With our kayaks loaded onboard Misty Isles, we set off to explore Desolation Sound, widely renowned for its rugged beauty and warm water temperatures. You could also customize your own trip and pricing by bringing your own food, kayaks, etc. We can voyage anywhere on the inside of Vancouver Island—where do you want to explore? www.mistyislesadventures.com [email protected] 250-935-6756

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>>

Solstua West – Rendezvous Islands

KAYAK with COMFORT

Experience Nature in Comfort

RENDEZVOUS ISLAND, BC CANADA

www.solstuawest.com

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Luxurious Waterfront Lodge, Cabins & Platform Tents

• Kayak/Yoga Retreats • Wildlife & Bird Watching • Family & Group Holidays • Clubs • Meetings

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Mothership Adventures

Vessel: Columbia III Length: 68 feet Sail or Power: Power Area(s): Great Bear Rainforest, Broughton Archipelago, Johnstone Strait, Desolation Sound Port(s) of Departure: Campbell River, Port McNeill, Bella Bella Number of Guests: 10 Length of Trip: 4 – 10 days Cost per Person: $300 – $475 per night Explore the remote wilderness of coastal British Columbia in luxury aboard the elegant heritage vessel Columbia III. Choose from kayaking tours, or specialty cruises including photography, cultural history, natural history, painting and videography. Enjoy cozy staterooms, gourmet food, hot showers certified guides and a hospitable crew! www.mothershipadventures.com [email protected] 250-202-3229 1-888-833-8887

Ursa Major Charters

Vessel: Ursa Major Length: 65 feet Sail or Power: Power Area(s): Winter – Mexico’s Sea of Cortez. Summer – Southeast Alaska’s Inside Passage. Port(s) of Departure: Sitka Alaska, Petersburg Alaska, La Paz Mexico and Loreto Mexico Number of Guests: 6 – 8 Length of Trip: 7 days Cost per Person: $3750 Ursa Major is a classic trawler yacht kayaking mothership spiriting you to the wilderness waters of Southeast Alaska and the marine sanctuaries of the Sea of Cortez. Quality kayaks, comfortable staterooms, showers, gourmet meals transport you to the finest kayaking areas for whale and bear watching and protected paddling waters. www.myursamajor.com [email protected] 206-310-2309



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JANUARY–MARCH 2008

“We know our stuff”

Ocean River’s Jon LaCroix.

getting you out there since 1981

A Proud “on water” Necky dealer 1824 STORE STREET VICTORIA, BC. PH 250.381.4233 • TOLL FREE 1 800 909 4233 WWW.OCEANRIVER.COM

JANUARY–MARCH 2008

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getting started

photo by Ron Mumford

by Alex Matthews

Navigating the Materials Maze

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tenance and are extremely difficult to puncture, crack or otherwise destroy. The low price of polyethylene kayaks makes them a real bargain and the perfect first boat for many paddlers. To recognize a poly boat, look for a duller, less glossy finish, a heavier overall weight, and for the deck and hull colors to be the same—the deck and hull are not two separate parts in a poly boat. Instead the entire shell is one continuous molded piece of plastic. This means that there is no seam in the material and no opportunity to have different colors between the deck and hull. Looking inside a poly boat will usually reveal the same basic color as the exterior, although some manufacturers use a “3 ply” process to increase stiffness and often features an interior color that is different from the outer one.

Polyethylene For polyethylene, think “Tupperware”–it’s basically the same plastic. Polyethylene or “poly” boats are very affordable, and have amazing durability. Nothing else even comes close to a poly boat when it comes to absorbing big impacts or standing up to serious abuse. Poly kayaks are a little soft, and do deform over time, especially when exposed to heat (like the hot sun). They are also significantly heavier than most kayaks built from other materials, but poly kayaks require the minimum of main40

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photo by Alex Matthews

photo by Alex Matthews

raditionally, kayaks were made from sealskin stretched over a wooden frame, but now most commercially available kayaks are built from a variety of plasticbased materials. The different materials and their respective qualities can be confusing to a prospective buyer, but the most common materials currently used are generally divided into three basic groups: • Polyethylene • Composites (like fiberglass, Kevlar® and carbon) • Thermoformed acrylic-capped ABS

Composites Composite boats are stiffer, lighter and shinier than polyethylene ones. They are also about twice the price! Kevlar® (a gold colored cloth made from aramid fiber) or Carbon (a black woven cloth made from carbon fiber) kayaks are lighter (typically by 5 – 10 lbs) than fiberglass ones, but are more expensive still. Composite kayaks yield the best performance on the water

JANUARY–MARCH 2008

and are stiffer and lighter than poly. While composite kayaks are definitely subject to more damage from heavy collisions than polyethylene kayaks, composites will last for a great many years if treated carefully, and are actually far more durable than most people suspect. All composite constructions are a sandwich of different fabrics that are wetted out and bonded together by resin. Different “cores” (usually made from urethane) are sometimes included in the laminate to further increase the stiffness of a part. The outermost layer of a composite kayak is usually an eggshell-thin layer of pigmented resin called gelcoat. “Clearcoat” finishes, which allow the underlying fabric to show through, are also popular on carbon and Kevlar® kayaks. To recognize a composite kayak, look for a high gloss finish, a seam between the deck and hull (although the hull and deck may be the same color), and a different color on the inside of the boat. The interior finish will usually display the woven fabric of the laminate or may occasionally be painted.

photo by Alex Matthews

Your Mothership Repair Specialists

Thermoformed A newer construction technique for kayak manufacture is thermoforming. This process uses a vacuum to draw heated plastic sheet material over a mold to create parts. The sheet material used is a clever mix of two different plastics: acrylic and ABS. Acrylic-capped ABS consists of a thin sheet of acrylic permanently bonded to a thicker sheet of ABS. The resulting material displays the desirable properties of both plastics: ABS vacuum forms beautifully but doesn’t have a great finish; acrylic won’t vacuum form but has an excellent glossy finish. Combined in one sheet material, the two plastics produce crisply molded high gloss parts that rival composites in visual appeal. Although more prone to flex than composites, and somewhat heavier, thermoformed boats seem to be on par with composites relative to resistance to impact, although long-term durability remains to be seen. Overall thermoformed kayaks provide a good compromise between the greater affordability of polyethylene boats and the beauty and lightness of composite ones. To recognize a thermoformed boat, look for a finish rivaling that of a composite kayak, but expect to find more flex. The real visual clue, however, is that the interior color will be the same as the exterior, with a smooth finish unlike the more textured and different colored interior found within a composite kayak. 

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paddle meals

by Hilary Masson

Ceviche

I

n Baja Mexico, fishing from a kayak is often phenomenal. It gets you hooked on fishing with a handline and can provide the fresh fish for a traditional ceviche—a citrus marinated seafood salad. Just about any fresh seafood can be used in the making of ceviche, including shellfish. This easy and healthy treat is typically served as an appetizer on crackers or crusty bread, as a seafood cocktail or as a salad. Needing minimal prep work, cerviche is the perfect way to enjoy a refreshing seafood dish in a hot climate. It is delicious, so be sure to make lots! It is hard to describe ceviche preparations without a few words about the diversity of fishing opportunities in Mexico. In these waters, paddling over a rocky shoal or reef and working a handline can produce Cabria (a type of rock fish) or the tasty white-fleshed Trigger Fish. A different strategy is casting from shore where schools of Jack Fish often swim close by. I’m often amazed at the abundance and variety of fish that will investigate any shiny lure. And swimming along the shore in snorkeling gear in the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez can provide more than aquatic vistas—when the conditions are right we find smooth sandy bottoms where large, dark colored clams (locally called chocolate clams) are abundant. Unlike in the Pacific Northwest, the Baja tidal height does not provide beaches for digging clams, so it’s necessary to get in the water and search for siphons sticking out of the sand. Free diving for clams is fun, and you can definitely improve with practice. Some savvy locals are able to get ten or more clams per breath. Fishing being what it is, we’d likely go hungry if I was relying on catching fish for a meal, but between fishing and snorkeling for clams we are often able to provide a special treat for a group lunch. Ceviche is a hit anywhere, and with fresh seafood opportunities in British Columbia, I always plan for a ready supply of key limes on my kayak trips there as well. The ultimate is salmon ceviche. Salmon is an excellent base for this dish as it slices so beautifully. The onion and cilantro combination is ideally matched with the flavor of marinated salmon, and the color combination is impressive. With salmon ceviche, try making a sour cream and horseradish spread for the crackers. This will be a big hit with your fellow paddlers! Happy paddling, fishing and eating on the beach! All you need is your snorkel or your fishing gear.

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JANUARY–MARCH 2008

Ceviche The only tools necessary for making ceviche are a lime press, a big spoon and a big bowl. Cleaning and rinsing the seafood prepares it for soaking in lime juice. Clams or scallops must be shucked, prawn heads removed, teeth removed from octopus, and it’s best if fish are carefully filleted. The whole point of ceviche is to “cook” the seafood in a lime marinade. The acidic nature of the limes will change the color of the fish, making it easy to determine when the lime has soaked all the way through, effectively cooking it. This can take anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour-and-a-half depending on the type of fish and the size of pieces. 1 15 1 4 2 1 2 1/4 1/4 1/2

pound seafood of your choice, chopped in thin slices key limes, juiced onion, diced tomatoes, diced green chilies, finely chopped bunch of cilantro, finely chopped avocados, sliced teaspoon salt teaspoon pepper teaspoon oregano

1. After rinsing, evenly chop seafood into thin pieces and collect in the bowl. 2. Squeeze the juice of 15 limes into the bowl, and thoroughly mix the seafood. 3. Add the diced onion (this needs to be in the lime juice for the same length of time as the seafood). 4. While the fish is cooking in the lime marinade, prepare the other ingredients: chop cilantro, tomato, green chilies and avocado. Grated carrots and finely chopped peppers of all colors can also be added if you want to be creative and original. 5. Stir all of these ingredients in the bowl with the soaking limes, seafood and onions. 6. A great addition is a topping of salsa, although some cooks prefer to add something sweet like ketchup to balance the sour limes. Ceviche is best served scooped on top of crackers or on tostadas. The corn tortillas that are made into round, hard chips are ideal. 

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JANUARY–MARCH 2008

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ENDLESS LOVE THE WATER CYCLE FOR KAYAKERS

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arth? The third rock from the sun? What kind of names are these? I much prefer the Blue Planet, which is less about my favorite color than it is about how “Earth” really looks, at least on the surface. Indoors, in cities and inland, it’s easy to forget we live on a planet that’s mostly covered in liquid water (over 70 percent). As kayakers, we’re always on the lookout for interesting bits of water to dip our paddles into. But how much do you really know about H2O? Are all 6 or 7 billion of us using it up, or are rising sea levels going to submerge us? Kayakers should know more about water than landlubbers, so let’s take a quick dip into the water cycle.

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WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

Water Water Everywhere... We often hear about water shortages and even water wars. How can we not have enough water when we live on a planet that’s mostly covered in it? The ancient mariner provides us with a clue after he makes the mistake of killing an albatross. Apparently, pointlessly killing seabirds is bad luck, and his ship gets becalmed. As everyone aboard slowly dies of thirst, Coleridge treats us to those oftrepeated lines: JANUARY–MARCH 2008

by Bryan Nichols

Water, water, every where, And all the boards did shrink ; Water, water, every where, Nor any drop to drink. The morbid (and poetic) irony of dying of thirst while floating on an ocean of water is a lesson to consider, especially since we are presently driving about 17 of the 24 species of albatross to extinction. To ensure a healthy supply of drinking water, even on a planet covered in water, we have to know something about the water cycle. This is literally a matter of life and death. Poorly managed water cycles result in more than 3 millions deaths a year, most of them children. Unfortunately, we’re raising generations, at least in North America, who don’t know much more than “clean water comes from a tap or bottle; dirty water goes down a drain.” As kayakers, boaters, voters, and as ecologically aware citizens, we need to know more. From Here to Eternity The thing about water is, we don’t use it up. It’s a renewable resource. A cycle. Round and round that water goes, from clouds to creeks to carrots to our kidneys, and one way or another, it leaves us to >>

Paddle the Flat Tops Silva Bay GABRIOLA ISLAND, BC

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join the cycle again. Water gets around using those “tion” words that you might remember from weather reports or high school. Let’s start with a hot day at the beach, appropriate conditions for sea kayaking. As the sun warms the sea surface, we get—you guessed it—evaporation. The magic of the water cycle is that when liquid water evaporates into water vapor (a gas), it can defy gravity and rise high up into the sky. Well, it’s not really magic, it’s physics, and as the old saying goes, what goes up must come down. Before it comes back down, it needs to become liquid again. So after evaporation we get condensation, where water forms tiny droplets or ice crystals that become clouds. Our next “tion” is precipitation, and down comes the water, falling as rain, snow or something in between. If it falls back into the ocean, we’re back where we started. If it falls on land, things get more complicated, much to the delight of those kayakers who like rivers. There are a couple other “tions” appropriate to water on land, including percolation (when water sinks into the ground) and transpiration (when plants

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take up water through their roots and emit it as water vapor). What’s important though, is that water keeps going around in the cycle over and over, powered by the sun and gravity. When you drink a glass of water you don’t use it up—you merely turn clean, fresh water into dirty, salty water. In this sense, we’re drinking the same water molecules our ancestors did, and the same ones the dinosaurs did. It just keeps going around the water cycle. The tiny percentage of Earth’s water that we can drink gets desalinated (by evaporation perhaps) and cleaned (by percolation, wetland filtration, etc.) along the way. Water and Weather We hear about droughts and floods all the time in the news, as the water on our blue planet shifts around. Global climate change won’t change the amount of water on earth—but it may change where it falls, where it travels, and how much of it is available. The water cycle is powered by sunlight and gravity, but the tilt of the earth is important to how that water moves around. Things like

JANUARY–MARCH 2008

tropical evaporation rates, seasonal monsoons and deep sea currents all add to those complicated weather patterns that decide how much rain falls where, and that rainfall has a profound effect on life. Climate changes have caused societies to collapse all over the world. We might be getting better at predicting climate change, but we seem to be getting better at causing it as well. As the world warms, the water cycle will continue—hopefully we’ll be able to adapt to the changes. Kayaking the Water Cycle Kayaks roam the edges of the planet’s giant water cycles because we move at or near the interface of land and water. The atmospheric sections of the cycle are pretty much inaccessible to kayakers, as are the ocean depths. Up in the sky, clouds and humidity contain only a tiny fraction of the amount of water on earth (.001 percent), but they’re critical to movement in the cycle. Kayakers don’t take to the skies too much, and we are rarely, if ever, completely submerged. Both events, should they ever happen to you, tend to be as memorable as they are

brief. Surf is typically involved. Kayaks don’t often get into underground water either, though I have paddled in numerous springs and floated through limestone caves in an inner tube. Kayaking starts on top of the land when precipitation either percolates into the ground or becomes runoff. Runoff starts small—sheet flow, drains, creeks and streams. It doesn’t need to get much wider than a kayak before intrepid river kayakers are going with the flow. Unless the geography cuts it off, gravity pulls surface and ground water towards the oceans. With occasional stops for ponds and lakes, streams become rivers, rivers flow into estuaries, and fresh water mixes into the oceans again. There’s great kayaking in all of those places, sometimes by just following one river to the sea. Speaking of oceans, there are about 860,000 kilometres worth of coastline on so-called “Earth.” One of the best ways to appreciate the Blue Planet’s ever flowing water cycle is to visit as many parts of it as you can with a kayak. How many have you paddled? 

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book and dvd reviews

by Diana Mumford

Oceanic Wilderness

Pacific Horizons: exploring the northwest coast by kayak

by Roger Steene Firefly Books, 2007 ISBN 978-1-55297-000-0 $59.95, 340 pp, hardcover color photos www.fireflybooks.com

filmed and directed by Bryan Smith Reel Water Productions, 2007 $29.95, 60 minute DVD www.pacifichorizonsfilm.blogspot.com www.helipress.com

Oceanic Wilderness is a truly breathtaking collection of over 600 well-captioned photos taken by an accomplished underwater photographer. The large (11 in. x 12.75 in.) hardcover book of over 300 pages showcases spectacular images of the brilliant, intricate, amazing creatures—some never previously photographed or named—that live in oceans around the world. Roger Steene has explored coral reefs, tidepools and other marine habitats in locations in the Caribbean, the Pacific and Indian Oceans, and the waters along the coasts of Japan, Australia and Southeast Asia, finding and photographing rare organisms. Using new technology, he was able to work at great depths, capturing images of microscopic life. The incredible beauty and bizarreness represented in the photographs chosen for Oceanic Wilderness will never be seen first-hand by the vast majority of people, which makes this volume a priceless tool adding to our understanding of the marine environment and the importance of protecting its fascinating bio-diversity. This is a book to place near a comfortable chair to be explored and savored over time.

This DVD production is a compilation of segments filmed in British Columbia and Oregon. Included is an introduction to Greenland Rolling featuring Dubside; footage of a 6 day expedition to the Bunsby Islands on the west coast of Vancouver Island; kayak surfing on the Oregon coast; sea kayaking in tidal races in the Skookumchuk near Egmont, BC and Surge Narrows off Quadra Island; a short piece about a circumnavigation of Vancouver Island by kayak; an introduction to the southern resident orcas in the San Juan Islands by The Center for Whale Research; and some footage of Justine Curgenven’s journey around Haida Gwaii with Shawna Franklin and Leon Somme (more to come in a Cackle TV production in 2008). Together, these segments showcase the variety of amazing paddling experiences available in British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest in the US. Each features athletic paddlers, pursuing adventurous experiences and serves as inspiration to get out and enjoy the beauty of the Pacific coast by kayak.

Whales & Dolphins of the North American Pacific

Digital Wildlife Photography by David Tipling Firefly Books, 2007 $24.95, 112 pp, color photos, index ISBN 978-1-55407-305-4 www.fireflybooks.com

Professional wildlife photographer David Tipling shares his knowledge and experience in this new guide to digital photography, providing upto-date information on such topics as choosing a digital camera and other equipment, storing images and backing up files, enhancing photos with and without Photoshop, working with various file formats, printing and scanning images, and strategies for photographing animals. He explains the jargon that may seem baffling to some, and for budding professional photographers, there is a chapter on marketing your work. Fabulous photos on every page illustrate a text written in a personal style, drawing on the author’s experiences with photographing animals in the studio and the field. This is a useful guide for anyone wanting to learn more about digital photography and how to take stunning wildlife photographs using new technology and techniques. Even experienced photographers will benefit from learning how Tipling approaches his work, and can apply his techniques to their own way of working. Amateur photographers can read and practice now, and be ready for encounters with wildlife during the paddling season!

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by Graeme Cresswell, Dylan Walker, Todd Pusser Harbour Publishing, 2007 $21.95 CAN/$19.95 US 216 pp, color photos and drawings, glossary, index ISBN 978-1-55017-409-0 www.harbourpublishing.com

This concise but comprehensive guide to marine mammals is packed with well-organized information, and lavishly illustrated with color photographs, charts and illustrations. In addition to facts specific to 39 cetacean species, 6 species of seals and sea lions and the sea otter, there is general information on how to identify the animal you are seeing by observing behavior or characteristic features. Quick Reference Guides show the relative size of families of species, and color coded maps show seasonal distribution, breeding areas and other key information. This guide is a small enough to pack into your kayak and has a place aboard any mothership whether you are on the water off Mexico or Alaska or anywhere in between. It provides a huge amount of fascinating information about marine mammals, and tips for responsible whale watching and photography. Proceeds from the sale of each copy are donated to the American Cetacean Society.

JANUARY–MARCH 2008

Enchanted Isles: The Southern Gulf Islands

Boat Green: 50 Steps Boaters Can Take to Save Our Waters

by David A.E. Spalding photographs by Kevin Oke Harbour Publishing, 2007 ISBN 978-1-55017-422-9 $34.95, 144 pp, hardcover color photos, index www.harbourpublishing.com

by Clyde W. Ford New Society Publishers, 2008 $17.95, 224 pp ISBN 978-0-865-71590-5 www.newsociety.com

Enchanted Isles provides an enticing glimpse into the history and present day culture of the Canadian southern Gulf Islands—the group of islands that lie just off the southeastern shore of Vancouver Island. The waters that surround these dozens of islands from Gabriola in the north to D’Arcy in the south—some large, some merely islets—are a mecca for boaters of every ilk. Plenty of secure harbors provide protection for anchoring, marinas on the larger islands offer dockside mooring and other amenities, the short distances between destinations make for great day sailing, campsites are within paddling distance of one another, and a variety of resort and B&B accommodation provides an option for those who prefer to do their exploring from a home base on land. Although they share some commonalities by virtue of being islands, each Gulf Island has a unique history, a distinct cultural flavor, and its own set of political and social issues. The author and the photographer who collaborated on the creation of this book live on one of the islands, and bring their insider understanding to the text and images. Dazzling photos that capture the physical beauty of the coastal landscape, as well as archival and contemporary photos of the people who settled here after the first European explorers arrived, are set alongside text organized into chapters, each dealing with one of the bigger islands or groups of smaller islands. The book begins and ends with additional general information about some of the qualities of Gulf Island living. A list of titles for further reading is an excellent resource for those whose interest has been piqued by this introduction to the southern Gulf Islands.

WaveLength MAGAZINE

No one can dispute the negative effect of human activity on the ocean and its shorelines and the lakes and rivers of North America. Everywhere there is evidence of pollution, habitat degradation and interference with the natural life of marine plants and animals. The author maintains that while boaters are not the main source of problems related to the declining health of our waterways (eutrophication, sedimentation, acidification, toxic contamination), as front-line users, we are important advocates for solutions to these problems and we can adjust our behavior to minimize our impact on the environment. Boat Green outlines some of the problems facing marine ecosystems, and straightforward strategies that individuals can take to address these problems. The pros and cons of biodiesel and ethanol fuels, 4-stroke and 2-stroke engines, diesel, gasoline and electric outboards, and the environmental implications of their use are outlined. Issues around marine sewage and sanitation are explored, including types of marine sanitation devices, maintenance of holding tanks, dry heads (a kind of composting toilet), using pump-out facilities, and handling of grey water. Other topics discussed in this comprehensive manual include: prevention of onboard fires, the prudent use of radar, recycling while cruising, opportunities for using solar and wind power, extending the life of batteries, best practices in boatyards, handling of bilge water, environmentally friendly cleaning products, the welfare of wild animals and pets, behavior ashore, and working with others to promote environmentally responsible boating. Boat Green would be a great resource for yacht clubs and boating organizations to circulate among members and perhaps use as a starting point for a committee dedicated to raising awareness and planning environmental boating events. 

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WAVELENGTH BOOKSTORE SKILLS EasyKayaking Basics

Sea Kayak

By Gary Backlund & Paul Grey 168 pp, 5.5” x 8.5”, $16.95 CDN/US

By Mary Ann Snowden 160 pages, 5” x 7”, b/w, $16.95 CDN/US

New enthusiast faces a daunting array of questions and choices. What kind of kayak is right for me, how big should it be and how much will it cost? What do I wear? What kind of food do I bring? And just how do I stay right side up? Easykayaking answers these questions and many more.

Each of the 23 trips outlined are headed with important information on tides, currents, safety considerations, charts and launching. Included in each route description is practical information on the different land jurisdictions, parks, campsites, suitable landings and paddling conditions.

A PADDLING HANDBOOK FOR THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

THE GULF ISLANDS

Sea Kayak Strokes

Sea Kayak

A GUIDE TO EFFICIENT PADDLING SKILLS

NOOTKA & KYUQUOT SOUNDS

By Doug Alderson 176 pages, 6” x 9”, b/w, $19.95 CDN/US

By Heather Harbord 160 pages, 5” x 7”, b/w, $16.95 CDN/US

Sea Kayak Strokes is a concise manual for learning and improving paddling skills. Alderson’s tips will help you paddle faster and with less effort, turn your kayak with greater ease, and keep your head above water using quick and effective bracing techniques.

Nootka and Kyuquot Sounds are the next step for sea kayakers who have enjoyed the Gulf Islands, the Sunshine Coast, Desolation Sound and the Broken Islands. The book breaks the area down into 49 trips. Once out there, wind and weather will dictate where you go depending on your skill level.

PADDLING GUIDES

The Wild Coast 1

A KAYAKING GUIDE FOR NORTH AND WEST VANCOUVER ISLAND

By John Kimantas 300 pp, 6” x 9”, color, $24.95 CDN/US

Sea Kayak

BARKLEY & CLAYOQUOT SOUNDS

This the ultimate guide to kayaking and exploring the stunning west coast of Vancouver Island. Each of the 11 chapters describes a distinct area of the island, with attractions, amenities, ecology, Native and European history, place names, landing sites, campsites, and trivia all included.

By Mary Ann Snowden 192 pages, 5” x 7”, b/w, $19.95 CDN/US

For the experienced and novice alike, this comprehensive guide leads paddlers through the best kayaking waters on the west coast of Vancouver Island. Twenty trips are outlined, covering prime paddling destinations within Barkley and Clayoquot sounds, including the Deer Group, the Broken Group Islands, and Vargas, Flores and Meares islands.

The Wild Coast 2

A KAYAKING GUIDE FOR NORTH AND CENTRAL BC COAST

By John Kimantas 344 pp, 6” x 9”, color, $29.95 CDN/US

Sea Kayak

DESOLATION SOUND AND THE SUNSHINE COAST By Heather Harbord 176 pages, 5” x 7”, b/w, $19.95 CDN/US

This paddling guide to Desolation Sound and the Strait of Georgia provides historical and travel information about the mainland coast north of Vancouver, BC.

Journey through the Inside and Outside Passages of BC from north Vancouver Island to the Alaska border. Each chapter explores a part of BC’s remote coastline and discusses the region’s Native and European history, geography, weather, ecology, attractions and services. Detailed maps show the major points of interest and the best campsites.

The Wild Coast 3

A KAYAKING GUIDE FOR BC’s SOUTH COAST AND EAST VANCOUVER ISLAND

Sea Kayak

AROUND VANCOUVER ISLAND By Doug Alderson 160 pages, 5” x 7”, b/w, $16.95 CDN/US

Covers a full circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. Interested in a grand expedition, a week of summer touring, or a weekend excursion? Each chapter in this guide book covers a section of the island providing ample information on: points of access, interesting sites, safe routes to travel, hazards to avoid, and comfortable campsites.

By John Kimantas 344 pp, 6” x 9”, color, $29.95 CDN/US

Provides explorers with everything they need to know about the south coast and east Vancouver Island, from Victoria to Port McNeill. This point-by-point guide, designed for kayakers, describes the details, hazards, geography, ecology, history, hikes and attractions of each location.

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JANUARY–MARCH 2008

WAVELENGTH BOOKSTORE MAPS Stikine River

A GUIDE TO PADDLING THE GREAT RIVER By Jennifer Voss 224 pp, 5.5” x 8.5”, b/w, $19.95 CDN/US

BC Coastal Recreation Kayaking and Small Boat Atlas VOLUME 1, SOUTH B.C. COAST AND EAST VANCOUVER ISLAND By John Kimantas 48 pages, 11” x 14”, full color, $39.95 CDN/US

The only available guide to the Stikine River, this book provides information for anyone planning a guided or self-guided paddling trip on the Stikine River by canoe, kayak or raft. It includes general trip planning tips and specific information on the route.

Volume One in this atlas series contains waterproof and manageably sized, detailed maps of British Columbia’s shorelines from Victoria to Port McNeill. Numerous landbased features are identified, including campsites and launch locations. Ideal for kayakers who want a detailed overview in an easy-to-use format.

The Broken Islands By Douglas Brunt 112 pp, 5.5” x 8.5”, b/w, $19.95 CDN/US

This new edition of The Broken Islands guide has been updated with current access and contact information, and expanded to include maps, charts, graphs, natural and cultural history chapters, and photographs of plants and animals. This is a useful resource that will help to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip to The Broken Islands.

BC Coastal Recreation Kayaking and Small Boat Atlas VOLUME 2, WEST COAST VANCOUVER ISLAND By John Kimantas 48 pages, 11” x 14”, color, $39.95 CDN/US

Volume 2 provides maps of the west coast of British Columbia from Sooke to Port Hardy. Numerous land-based features are identified, among them campsites and launch locations. Ideal for kayakers who want a detailed overview in an easy-to-use format.

Paddling Through History SEA KAYAK VANCOUVER AND VICTORIA

By Aileen Stalker and Andrew Nolan 192 pages, 5” x 7”, b/w, $19.95 CDN/US

Experience inner-city paddling with a guide that tells the story of BC’s biggest city from water level. Explore history with the tales behind the people, bridges, lighthouses, museums and watercraft that come to life in this guide, which also includes a section on Victoria.

EasyKayaker

A GUIDE TO LAID-BACK VANCOUVER ISLAND PADDLING

By Gary Backlund & Paul Grey 192 pp, 6” x 9”, $24.95 CDN/US

Discover easy-to-paddle trips in thorough easy-to-read chapters and all the basic information you’ll need to get started— with sections on buying a suitable kayak, camping, kayaking with kids and how to choose an appropriate tour guide. Covers eastern Vancouver Island and other paddling locations; Gulf Islands, Broken Group and Nootka Sound.

COOKING One-Pot Wonders

JAMES BARBER’S RECIPES FOR LAND AND SEA By James Barber 192 pages, 9” x 6”, b/w, $24.95 CDN/US

One-Pot-Wonder features over one hundred mouthwatering, simple gourmet recipes from James Barber, who was Canada’s most famous television chef and author of more than fourteen best-selling cookbooks. This is a perfect cookbook for people who are wet and cold and want dinner in a hurry.

WAVELENGTH BACK ISSUES

Kayaking Vancouver Island TRIPS FROM PORT HARDY TO VICTORIA

Back issues of WaveLength Magazine are available while quantities last. Go to www.WaveLengthMagazine.com to browse the content of previous issues. $4.95 each (plus shipping)

By Gary Backlund & Paul Grey 295 pp, 6” x 9”, $24.95 CDN/US

Trips ranging from a lazy day excursion in Victoria’s historic Gorge waterway to an exciting multi-day voyage around Meares Island in Clayoquot Sound, the authors cover everything from launch sites to lunch sites, which currents to avoid and which tides to ride. The book is rich in local mythology, folklore and history. Writing with safety and (mostly) easy paddling in mind, Backlund and Grey rate paddling skills required for each area.

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51

WAVELENGTH BOOKSTORE PEOPLE

ENVIRONMENT Beyond the Whales

Painter, Paddler

THE ART AND ADVENTURES OF STEWART MARSHALL

By Alexandra Morton 144 pp, 9” x 8”, color & b/w, $19.95 CDN/US

By Andrew Scott 144 pages, 10.5” x 9.5”, color & b/w, $44.95 CDN/US

Through a her stunning photographs, Alexandra Morton portrays life on the central BC coast and explains what is going on beyond the beauty of the images: “One of the joys of watching a place for 20 years is being able to read the signs upon the sea. The ocean feeds the rivers and the rivers feed the ocean.”

For much of the past two decades, Stewart Marshall has travelled hundreds, sometimes thousands, of miles in a hand-built kayak, living off the land and the sea and painting on some of British Columbia’s most remote shorelines. This insightful portrayal captures the highs and lows of a lifetime of painting and paddling.

Marine Mammals

Bill Mason

OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

WILDERNESS ARTIST

By Pieter Folkens 8 pp, 5.5” x 9” color pamphlet, $9.95 CDN/US

By Ken Buck 224 pages, 10” x 8”, color & b/w, $39.95 CDN/US

Convenient, concise and waterproof, this three-fold handy pocket guide to fifty species of marine mammals features color illustrations and photos of humpbacks, greys, orcas, bottlenose dolphins and Dall’s porpoises, sea lions and five species of seals. It also includes a habitat key and identification tips.

This is the story of Canada’s most famous canoeing artist. The camera lens and the pallet knife were his instruments. The wild places were his inspiration. This book provides insight into a man driven by a passion for nature.

A Field Guide

Around One More Point

TO THE IDENTIFICATION OF PEBBLES

A JOURNAL OF PADDLING ADVENTURES

By Eileen Van der Flier-Keller 2 pp, 37” x 9” color pamphlet, $7.95 CDN/US

By Mary Gazetas 96 pp, 9” x8”, color, $24.95 CDN/US

Have you ever been walking at the beach and wondered what that pebble or rock is? The Field Guide to the Identification of Pebbles, is a full color, laminated, accordion folded, easy to use guide with over 80 beautiful photographs of pebbles from beaches and rivers. Use the photos to identify over 28 different types of rocks and minerals.

A journal “sketchbook” of writings, photographs and drawings that capture the adventures of BC artist and paddler Mary Gazetas, for almost 25 years. The journeys include paddle trips in Barkley, Clayoquot, Nootka and Kyuquot sounds, the Broughton Archipelago, the central coast and Haida Gwaii (the Queen Charlotte Islands).

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JANUARY–MARCH 2008

events January 24 – February 2 Seattle Boat Show

Adventure Tourism

Qwest Field, Seattle, WA www.seattleboatshow.com

Programs

February 2 – 3 Sea Kayak and Canoe Winter Seminar

ificate 5-month cert

Washington Water Trails Association Mercer Island, WA www.wwta.org/seminar

oma ear dipl or 2-y

February 6 – 10 Vancouver International Boat Show

BC Place Stadium, Vancouver, BC www.vancouverboatshow.ca February 9 – 23 Patagonia Expedition Race

Chile, Tierra del Fuego, Patagonia www.patagoniaexpeditionrace.com March 5 – 9 Sacramento Boat Show

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Sacramento, CA www.sacramentoboatshow.com March 7 – 9 Canoecopia

Madison, WI www.canoecopia.com

K AYA K & C A N O E

sales rentals

March 14 – 16 22nd Annual Santa Cruz Kayak Surf Festival

Steamer Lane, Santa Cruz, CA www.asudoit.com

BCU Instruction

March 27 – 30 Tacoma Boat Show

Visit our stores in Portland, Bend and Hood River, OR

Racoma Dome, Tacoma, WA www.otshows.com/TBS/tbs.htm

888 571.4545

shop.aldercreek.com

May 2 – 4 Georgian Bay Kayak & Canoe Festival & Concert

Nobel, ON www.whitesquall.com/festival.php May 9 – 11 20th Annual Alaska Sea Kayaking Symposium

Alaska Pacific University, Anchorage, AK www.aksks.org May 9 – 11 5th Annual Reno River Festival

Reno, NV www.RenoRiverFestival.com May 10 – 11 10th Annual Vancouver Island Paddlefest

Ladysmith, BC www.Paddlefest.bc.ca May 17 – 18 Puget Sound Sea Kayak Symposium

Owens Beach, Pt. Defiance Park, Tacoma, WA www.metroparkstacoma.org

>> JANUARY–MARCH 2008

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

53

coastal news May 30 – 31 Columbia River Paddle Festival

North Howard Amon Park, Richland, WA www.ColumbiaKayakAdventures.com/events.html June 8 Round Bowen Challenge

Bowen Island, BC www.roundbowenchallenge.com June 20 – 22 Rossport Kayak Symposium

Lake Superior, Rossport ON www.naturallysuperior.com July 17 – 20 24th Annual Great Lakes Sea Kayak Symposium

Grand Marais, MI www.glsks.com August 21 – 24 Ladies of the Lake Sea Kayak Symposium

Drummond Island, MI www.downwindsports.com August 22 – 24 Greenland Style Paddling Symposium

Lake Superior, Wawa, ON www.naturallysuperior.com September 5 – 7 1st annual North East Canoe and Kayak Symposium

Spruce Run Recreation Area, Clinton, NJ Trade Association of Paddlesports www.gopaddle.org September 19 – 21 25th Anniversary West Coast Sea Kayak Symposium

Port Townsend, WA Trade Association of Paddlesports www.gopaddle.org 

Paddlefest 2008 – Canada’s West Coast Premier Paddlesports Event The 10th annual Paddlefest will be held at Transfer Beach, Ladysmith on May 10 and 11, 2008. Come to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Paddlefest, featuring a vendor/trade show, workshops and demos. For more information about this year’s event, visit the Paddlefest website: www.Paddlefest.bc.ca Gerald Island – New Provincial Marine Park The BC government, working in partnership with The Land Conservancy of BC, has reached an agreement to acquire Gerald Island for future designation as a provincial marine park. The 11.65 hectare (28.8 acre) island is located in the Ballenas-Winchelsea Archipelago of 13 islands and numerous islets located near Nanoose Bay. Gerald Island is a good example of the rocky coastal bluff ecosystem rarely found undisturbed in the Coastal Douglas-fir biogeoclimatic zone in the southern Strait of Georgia. It is home to northern and California sea lions, bald eagles, and various bird and marine species. The ministry is investigating the feasibility of establishing a marine park in the Ballenas-Winchelsea Archipelago. following consultations with the Nanoose First Nation, Qualicum First Nation and the Te’mexw Treaty Association, and federal and local governments, if this park is established, Gerald Island will be included.

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WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

JANUARY–MARCH 2008

Washington Water Trails Association seeks E.D. Washington Water Trails Association (WWTA) in Seattle, Washington is recruiting a new Executive Director to begin work May, 2008. In 2007 WWTA expanded the Cascadia Marine Trail to 56 campsites in Puget Sound, and is actively involved in water trail development across Washington State, forging important partnerships to help further WWTA’s mission. These trails include the Lakes-To-Locks Water Trail, Willapa Bay Water Trails, Northwest Discovery Water Trail, Lower Columbia River Water Trails, and the Greater Columbia Water Trail. WWTA’s mission is to promote advocacy, education, and stewardship of public access to Washington’s waterways for people in human and wind powered beachable watercraft. WWTA is looking for a strong leader with organizational skills and management experience. It is preferable this individual have experience working with a non-profit board of directors. This person will be responsible for the development of trails in cooperation with state and federal agencies, will supervise outreach programs, public relations, fundraising and grant writing. A passion for outdoor recreation is a plus. Candidates should send cover letter and resume via email to the executive search committee at edsearch@wwta. org

Chemicals Found in Young Orcas Young Southern Resident Orcas, which frequent the waters of Puget Sound, Haro Strait, the Strait of Juan de Fuca and lower Georgia Strait, have more contaminants in their bodies than older whales in the group, according to a report published in the journal Marine Pollution Bulletin in October 2007. “The most unexpected finding from the study was that, among whales sampled, the highest levels of three toxic contaminant groups—the flame retardant and two pesticides—came from a three-year-old male,” said Dr. Peggy Krahn, lead author of the paper. The findings of this collaborative study by Canadian and US researchers are causing concern because it was previously believed that chemicals from food accumulate in orcas over time, making older animals more at risk. This contamination of young individuals could well affect the health of future generations. The Southern Resident Orcas were listed as endangered under the US federal Endangered Species Act in 2005. There are now 88 orcas in this group. New Website for Wild Salmon Supporters The Coastal Alliance for Aquaculture Reform (CAAR) launched the Wild Salmon Supporters Program in the Fall of 2007 with a new website: www. SalmonSupporters.com. The program is dedicated to working with chefs, restaurants and retailers who are making a commitment to rejecting farmed salmon until the industry shifts to more sustainable production methods. The website features profiles of businesses that are Wild Salmon Supporters, downloadable resources that answer questions about the impacts of salmon farming, and food industry news on sustainability. Consumers can access a list of restaurants that have signed on as Wild Salmon Supporters. Two New Films Salmon Coast Research Station Part 3 Do lice kill young wild salmon? In this short film, the third in a series, Twyla Roscovich delves a little deeper into some of the research happening at the remote Salmon Coast Research Station,

located in the Broughton Archipelago where researchers conduct experiments on salmon and sea lice. In this episode, the research team is amazed to discover how much damage one louse has inflicted on a fish. After the Spill in Robson Bight Six weeks after a barge tipped, dumping a fuel tanker and logging equipment into the Robson Bight Ecological Reserve, the equipment was still leaking petroleum products in the orcas’ rubbing beach sanctuary. To watch these short films, visit www. callingfromthecoast.com BC Marine Trails Initiative The Nanaimo Paddlers have formed a committee in order to address concerns about losing access to large parts of the BC coastline for kayak touring. They are hoping to compile a list of “safe havens” with the idea of having them established as Land Act Notations of Interest for Use, Recreation and Enjoyment by the Public (UREP-NOI) with the government. They want to network with other paddling clubs and possibly form an umbrella group to deal with this issue. The Marine Trails committee of the Nanaimo Paddlers can be contacted through: mar [email protected] Puget Sound Partnership The Puget Sound Partnership is mobilizing communities, agencies and organizations to work together to create a comprehensive Action Agenda to restore Puget Sound. The Action Agenda will identify and set priorities for what work needs to be done to achieve a healthy Puget Sound. For more information or to get involved, visit: www.psp.wa.gov Definitive Sea Lice Study A study appearing in the December 14 issue of the journal Science shows that parasitic sea lice infestations caused by salmon farms are driving nearby populations of wild salmon toward extinction. The results show that the affected pink salmon populations have been rapidly declining for four years. The scientists expect a 99% collapse in another four years, or two salmon generations, if the infestations continue. “The impact is so JANUARY–MARCH 2008

severe that the viability of the wild salmon populations is threatened,” says lead author Martin Krkosek, a fisheries ecologist from the University of Alberta. Krkosek and his co-authors calculate that sea lice have killed more than 80% of the annual pink salmon returns to BC’s Broughton Archipelago. “If nothing changes, we are going to lose these fish.” Previous peer-reviewed papers by Krkosek and others showed that sea lice from fish farms can kill juvenile wild salmon. This, however, is the first study to examine the population-level effects on the wild salmon stocks. “Salmon farming breaks a natural law,” says co-author Alexandra Morton. “In the natural system, the youngest salmon are not exposed to sea lice because the adult salmon that carry the parasite are offshore. But fish farms cause a deadly collision between the vulnerable young salmon and sea lice. They are not equipped to survive this, and they don’t.” Salmon bring nutrients from the ocean back to the coastal ecosystem. Killer whales, bears, wolves, birds and even trees depend on pink salmon. “If you lose wild salmon there’s a lot you are going to lose with them—including other industries such as fishing and tourism,” says Krkosek. Round Bowen Island Kayak Race There will some interesting changes this year for the 9th Annual Kayak Race around Bowen Island. Firstly, the race will be held on a Sunday, June 8th, at 10 am. Secondly, the name will be changed to the Round Bowen Challenge. Lastly, two extra races will be run at the same time as the traditional Round Bowen: a relay race around the island for OC-1s and 2s, and a short sprint course of 7 km. The normal post race party will remain the same with a salmon BBQ , wine and beer, live music and prizes. www.roundbowenchallenge.com Sewage Plan for Victoria The Capital Regional District of Victoria has been given one year to finalize a plan for sewage treatment in Greater Victoria. The deadline and expectations for the plan, which will cost billions to implement, were delivered to the CRD in a letter from BC Environment Minister Barry Penner on Dec. 14, 2007.  WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

55

the marketplace COURSES

ASSOCIATIONS

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guide courses 2008

in tofino with dan lewis and bonny glambeck

may 3-11, may 17-25, september 6-14. call toll free

Madawaska Kanu Centre located by Algonquin Park, Ontario offers highly personal instruction from Beginner to Expert levels. Weekend and 5-Day Courses.

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www.rainforestkayak.com

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PADDLING PARTNERS

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SHARED COST ADVENTURING Room for 2 kayakers plus myself aboard my sailboat (mothership) May to Aug/08 in Great Bear Rain Forest area on shared cost basis. Will rendezvous for time you wish. If interested email aguysailing@yahoo. com for details.

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TOURS - ALASKA

GEAR

ALASKA!

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For Archived Articles

www.WaveLengthMagazine.com JANUARY–MARCH 2008

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57

the marketplace

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59

loafer’s log

by Ron Mumford

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Excerpts from the log of Loafer II, the WaveLength crew’s mothership.

Clam Cove

Scarlett Point Lighthouse

God’s Pocket

July 2007 Monday Passing several cruise ships on the way, we headed up to our favorite port of call this morning—Port McNeill—to gas up, do the laundry (well equipped laundromat a block up from the gas dock), shower (clean showers and plenty of hot water in the port office beside the ferry terminal), shop (for groceries, gifts, fishing tackle, hardwear, etc.) and to indulge in a restaurant lunch. After our usual mad dash around town (“shop till you drop” definitely applies) we moved out of our temporary slip on the gas dock to make room for the next shoppers. When we left the Pearse Islands, we were planning to head further north after refueling and taking on provisions in McNeill, but with wind and rain predicted, we decided to head over to Sointula on Malcolm Island to weather out the incoming low pressure system. The calm at the small fishing village of Sointula was a stark contrast to the crowded docks, seaplanes and hustle and bustle of Port McNeill. The municipal docks, well protected by a breakwater, were quiet and had lots of space available. We plugged in to shore power and noted the water hose on the dock. Walking up to check in at the office, we found showers, laundry machines and the Burger Barn (fish & chips and burgers) at the head of the dock. 60

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Tuesday It was still raining and blowing this morning, so we stayed put and explored Sointula on foot. A twenty-minute walk along the waterfront road took us downtown, to a community of fewer than 1000 residents with restaurants, co-op grocery store and artisans’ studios and gift shops. We escaped the rain by drinking coffee in the Wild Islands Foods Café and Bakery, visiting Choyces Gifts & Gallery, and chatting with Rebekah Parlee in her very cool Boathouse Gallery. Sointula was established by Finnish settlers in 1901 as a socialist commune, and residents today are proud of the history of their village named “place of harmony” in the Finnish language. We could have whiled away time at the museum as well, but missed the open hours (11 am to 3 pm daily in the summer). Wednesday After waiting out the wind and rain for two days, we headed north, past Pulteney Point Lighthouse on the northern tip of Malcolm Island, into Queen Charlotte Strait and then Goletas Channel. Turning right, we dropped in to visit Bill Weeks and Annie Ceschi at God’s Pocket on Hurst Island. God’s Pocket is primarily a diving resort with cabins nestled into an idyllic, protected cove, but Bill and Annie have joined forces with Terry and Nancy of Sea Kayak Adventures to offer kayakers comfortable accommodation and support to access this rugged part of Queen Charlotte Strait. Bill told us that at least one sea otter had been spotted off Scarlett Point Lighthouse quite close to God’s Pocket, but when we motored past the lighthouse later and scanned the kelp beds, there was no sea otter sighting for us today. From Scarlett Point we headed up the east coast of Balaclava Island to visit another diving/kayaking destination in the Gordon Islands—Browning Pass Hideaway—nestled in picturesque Clam Cove on Nigei Island. To get to this well protected cove, we cruised through a long, narrow channel before spotting a group of float houses to starboard. Run by John deBoeck, Browning Pass Hideaway Resort offers three cozy guest cottages for small groups and individuals, water taxi and kayak transport from Port Hardy, and experienced guide services and advice for paddlers and divers. JANUARY–MARCH 2008

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Thursday We headed across the calm waters of Gordon Channel for our next destination, a group of islands located in the center of Queen Charlotte Strait—the Walker Group—part of the larger Deserters and Walker Group Conservation Area. The Walkers provide a protected anchorage located half way through the narrow channel that separates the two biggest islands, Kent and Staples Islands. On arrival, we tied up to a large yellow buoy in the center of the bay, left by a fish farm no longer in operation. This bay is a perfect anchorage for pleasure boats looking for a safe haven from which they can try their hand at fishing for halibut (we spotted several carcasses lying on the bottom below the boat) or as a layover before heading north across Queen Charlotte Sound. Friday Despite gentle but persistent rain, we launched the kayaks and headed off for a paddle. Thanks to crystal clear water, we could see large spiny sea urchins nibbling on the holdfasts of giant bull kelp, colorful anemones clinging to rocky ledges and schools of shiny feed fish. Above the water, with the mist from the rising fog still hanging in the trees, eagles chattered to each other from lofty branches. In the distance and out of sight, we could hear the blows of a humpback whale. Due to the Walkers’ proximity to Queen Charlotte Sound and the open Pacific, our kayaks rose and fell in a gentle ocean swell as we paddled long the east coast of Kent Island. Smaller rocks and islets provided numerous channels, nooks and crannies to poke our bows into. Perfect paddling country! At low tide, Kent Island is one island; incoming tides flood shallow channels and lagoons to cut the island into two at higher tides. This created a circular route to explore, which ultimately led us back to our anchorage and the comfort of Loafer II. Next year we will explore the Deserter Group of islands located across Shelter Passage just south of the Walkers, but tomorrow we’ll head for Shelter Bay on the mainland. 

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