Rajasthan

1 Rajasthan is where all the country’s similes and metaphors appear to have come together to create a visual extravaganza. Majestic palaces and rugged forts, spectacular deserts, wooded hills and tranquil lakes, bustling towns and quiet villages, amazing flora and fauna and of course, the colorful and vibrant people of Rajasthan form an intricate tapestry of mysticism, grandeur and rusticity. Behind the breathtaking beautiful facade, expect to find contradictions to the ordinary and mundane aspects of vacationing. Wherever you travel, particularly when you escape from the popular tourist destinations, you will come across the unexpected, whether it is a local fair or a bustling bazaar or mind-blowing architectural wonders. The mood and the rhythm of the countryside changes from one region to another, and from season to season. It is a land of magical fantasies that remain a lifetime memory. Come and discover it for yourself... The history of Rajasthan dates back to 5000 years and boasts a heritage as rich as its landscape. There is something for everyone in this land - those looking for an action packed holiday will find endless opportunities, right from jungle and desert safaris, adventure tours or just a laid-back cushy royal experience in one of the several palace hotels or heritage hotels found in each and every part of Rajasthan. Whether you are visiting Rajasthan's big cities, or exploring historic towns or quaint villages, you will find the people very warm and friendly. Rajasthanis, are one of the most flamboyant and multi-hued people of the Indian sub-continent, known for their cultural and artistic works, rich lifestyle and rusticity blended with modern ideals. Their history has been witness to many acts of valor and bravery shown by these people, which have passed on from generation to generation. Rajasthan is one of the 26 states that, along with seven union territories, form the Republic of India. Located in the northwest, it shares its borders with Punjab, Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, and Gujarat, and an international border with Pakistan. The 3,42,274 sq km of its topography comprises 22 former princely states that merged at the time of Indian independence. Geographically, located between 22 and 30 north latitude, and 69 and 78 east longitude, the region consists of the Aravalli hills, the plateau of Hadoti and the Malwa tableland that blocks the flow of the monsoons to the region, creating the vast desert land that lies to the west. Temperatures here can be sub-zero in winter nights, though at 12 to 25 degree Celsius during the daytime, this is the best time for visitors to travel within the state. Summers, not surprisingly, are hot and dry, and though the fierce winds have now ceased as a result of the large-scale plantation, the temperature hovers in the vicinity of 45 degree Celsius during the day. From the most discerning and seasoned traveler to the first-timer, Rajasthan has something for everybody. Beautiful vistas to imperial locales, artistic antiquities to traditional handicrafts, exotic wildlife to unusual getaways, sufficient memories of memorable vacation to last forever. It is among the richest states in the country as far as handicrafts are concerned. The craftsmen here have been creating some of the most exotic and unusual forms of arts through generations. Stone, clay, leather, wood, ivory, lac, glass, brass, silver, gold and textiles are given the most brilliant forms, for visitors to take back the vivacity and wealth of the Indian state of Rajasthan.

PRINCIPAL DESTINATIONS So rich is the history of the land that every roadside village has its own tales of valor and sacrifice for the telling. However, for most visitors, lengthy forays would be difficult, though camel safari’s sometimes offer them the opportunity to interact with people who may have never stepped out of their villages - or seen rainfall.

2 AJMER: A 7th century Chauhan dynasty stronghold, Ajmer is now a pilgrimage center for Muslims, though people from all faiths and religion come to pray at its famous mosque. The British developed Ajmer as an educational center, and Mayo College, once an exclusive school for boys from royal families, is now among the country's best private schools. ALWAR: Once known as Mewar, the Rajput kingdom came under Muslim domination from the 13th to 18th centuries with constant attempts to win it back which, the Prince of Kachhwa dynasty succeeded in doing in 1771. Alwar has some beautiful lakeside palaces, not all open to the public. Alwar, paradoxically, was both the oldest and newest of all the Rajput Kingdoms. On the one hand, it traced its traditions back to the kingdom of Viratnagra that flourished here around 1500 BC. On the other, it was officially created – carved out of the Martha territories – by the British as late as the 1770’s. The rulers of Altar were distantly related to the Kachhawaha dynasty of Jaipur and, until the mid – 18th century, were merely the chieftains of two villages in Jaipur state. But, by skillfully aligning themselves with the right party at the right time – the Jats of Bharatpur, the Kachhawahas, the Mughals and, finally, the East India Company – they rapidly jockeyed themselves into a position of political consequence. BARMER: A 13th century forfeited town, Barmer is in the heart of the desert and is known for the quality of its wood and stone carvings. Earlier fortifications reveal the far limits where the Rajputs raised defense out-posts. BANSWARA: Ribbed with streams and covered with dense forests, Banswara lies off the conventional tourist circuit. Artificial lakes and dams, and the ruins of ancient temples make this an exciting place to discover. BIKANER: Founded by one of the scions of the house of Jodhpur, Bikaner's history combines adventure with enterprise. In later centuries, as an ally of the Mughals and the British, is was able to develop as a modern state, though its architectural attractions remain splendidly Rajput. One of the principal outposts of the desert, it is also a major center for camel breeding. BHARATPUR: The only Jat kingdom in the state, the rock-hard mud fortifications of its fort proved invincible even under repeated siege. The fort houses early remnants of artifacts and sculpture, while the modern palace outside is a sprawling structure. However, Bharatpur is better known for its Bird Sanctuary (Keoladeo Ghana National Park). Bharatpur was an unusual Kingdom of Rajasthan because it was the only one that was ruled by a dynasty of Jats – peasant sons of the soil – rather than Rajputs. Under its aggressive rulers, the kingdom of Bharatpur became a major military and political force in the 18th and 19th centuries, its armies sweeping the plains of northern India, virtually olds and masters of all they surveyed. However, the history of Bharatpur goes back far, far earlier, to the great ancient kingdom of Matsyadesh that fluorides here around the 5ht century BC. There are several fine archeological remains of this civilization that you can see in the Bharatpur Museum. BUNDI: Nestled in a fold of the Aravalli hills, Bundi bristles with medieval enchantment. Its fortifications house palaces and apartments, artificial lakes and waterside pavilions. Ruled by the Hada Rajputs, Bundi is renowned for its Rasleela frescos. CHITTAURGARH: The former capital of the Sisodia rulers of Udaipur, Chittaurgarh perches atop the scraggy spine of the Aravallis. Ransacked by Allaudin Khilji in the 14 th century, by the Sultans of Gujarat in the 16th century, and finally by the Mughal Emperor Akbar's forces, it was abandoned by its rulers who vowed never to return until they avenge their defeat. The few remaining palaces and towers are part of its stirring history.

3 DEEG: The summer resort of the rulers of Bharatpur, Deeg is known for its Jat architecture and for the colored fountains and pleasure pavilions that are contained within a fortified environment. JAIPUR: The capital of the modern state of Rajasthan, Jaipur is a modern city built according to the specifications laid down in ancient architectural texts. Known as a Pink City on account of the flush color of its sandstone palaces, it is a major center for handicrafts. Its former capital, Amber consists of fortifications with an interesting range of highly decorated public and private apartments. The city of Jaipur is the logical starting point for anyone traveling in Rajasthan because to its central location and good air road and rail connections. To the west lies the desert region of Mercer (Biker, Jaisalmer, and Jodhpur), to the north and south run the craggy Aravalli hills. From jaipur it is an easy drive to Al war and the Sariska Tiger Reserve. In the Northeast, or to Ajmer, Pushkar, and Kishangarh in the southwest. Also within reach is the shekhavati region in the northwest and Ranthambhor National Park in the east. The kingdom of jaipur was originally known as amber, which was also the name of its ancient capital situated 7 miles away. Its history can be traced back to the 12 th century, when Amber was the stronghold of the fierce Mina tribesmen. According to legend, the Minas once gave shelter to a Rajput Prince called Duleh Rai. But the prince later betrayed them by getting them drunk one night, slaying them, and taking over Amber. In the 16th century, Amber suddenly came to the fore when the Mughal emperor, Akbar (reigned 1556 – 1605) married one of its princesses, the first of several shrewd matrimonial alliance between a Mughal ruler and a Rajput Princess. JAISALMER: The westernmost citadel of the desert, Jaisalmer has an ancient history linked with its development as a trading center. Parts of its `Golden' fort continue to be inhabited, and its cobbled streets lead through a journey of medieval enchantment. Jaisalmer is celebrated for the exquisite stone-carved havelis or mansions of the merchants who held the reins of its destiny. JHALAWAR: A 19th century offshoot of Kota, Jhalawar's verdant landscape is unusual for a desert state. Its fort functions as a government office but the 9th century Gagron Fort close by is one of the most important citadels of Rajput history. JODHPUR: The 16th century capital of the Rathore Rajputs, Jodhpur's history is evident in the hilltop fort, Mehrangarh, from where its destiny was written. Narrow paths wind up the steep path, leading to the innards of the fort. Once within, the architecture is less formidable, with delicate windows and painted chambers. From its ramparts one has a view of the 20th century art decorum from the Umaid Bhawan Palace. KOTA: Verdant, fertile plains flank one of few perennial rivers in Rajasthan, the Chambal. Located on its banks, Kota is a modern industrialized city, but its antecedents are as romantic as any other Rajput kingdom. This is evident in its many palaces, and the large fort with its fabulous paintings known for their hunting scenes. MOUNT ABU: A summer retreat in the Aravallis with a large lake and several temples, Mount Abu also doubles as a pilgrimage center with its 11th-13th century Delwara Jain temples known for the quality of their sculptures and artifacts. NAGAUR: Located between Bikaner and Jodhpur, yet largely bypassed, Nagaur serves as an important link in the state’s martial history, and its fort has frescos in Mughal and Rajput styles. PUSHKAR: A pilgrimage center with the only temple in India dedicated to Lord Brahma, the Divine Creator, Pushkar is the venue for the annual camel fair. RANAKPUR: Ranakpur is well known for its 15th century temples built by Jain merchants, these are characterized by the fine quality of their carving.

4 RANTHAMBHOR: The fort of Ranthambhor has been abandoned to nature for in this national park, where the Royal Bengal Tiger rules the jungle. One of the country’s finest tiger reserves, its topography of low hills and large lakes provides a tranquil idyll. SHEKHAWATI: A region of small towns, Shekhawati is primarily known for its havelis or mansions richly ornamented with frescos that, over time, ranged from the sacred to the secular. UDAIPUR: A lake city, and the capital of the Rana of Mewar, founded in the 16th century, Udaipur is known for its fairytale palaces that nestle along the banks of a lake, or completely cover islands in its midst. The Sisodia rulers of Chittaurgarh who ruled here obviously had more leisure to exercise their taste than at Chittaur where much of their time was spent at war. DUNGARPUR: A Bhil stronghold in the foothills of the Aravallis, this fertile region was created into the state of Dungarpur in the 13th century. Since the natural protection afforded the place complete isolation, a highly decorative style of architecture and other arts developed. KUMBALGARH: Built in the 15th century by Rana Kumbha of Chittaurgarh, Kumbalgarh is Rajasthan's highest fort, and it’s most formidable. The air here is rife with medieval tales of intrigue and treachery. It is because its history is characterized by some of the pivotal points that characterized the Sisodia dynasty. SARISKA: A tiger reserve, Sariska is densely wooded, making sightings difficult, though the picturesque park is also home to deers, langurs and avifauna. SARISKA TIGER RESERVE: this game sanctuary, 20 miles southwest of Al war, was once the personal hunting ground of the Maharajas of Al war. It became a sanctuary in 1955 and was taken up under project tiger in 1979. It covers an area of 320 square miles (with a core area of 192 square miles). The forested hills of Sariska are among the best places to view tigers in India. There is a tiger population of approximately thirty here. Unlike other sanctuaries, the tigers here can sometimes be sighted by day. These daytime sightings are on the increase, with the tigers gradually becoming more confident with human beings around. The best time of the year to see the tigers is during the summer months, when they come out to the water holes to drink and when there is less jungle foliage to provide them with cover. Other animals here are panthers (which tend not to overlap in the same areas with tigers), jungle cats, and caracals. In addition, there are the Nilgai, Chital, Sambar, Wild Boar, and Porcupine. The reserve is also rich in Birds, including gray partridge, quail, sand grouse, and white – breasted kingfisher. The best way to see the animals is to drive through the reserve either in the early morning or in the late evening. While there are paved roads within the reserve, and you can drive through it by car, it might be preferable to hire a jeep so that you can go off the regular track into the interiors of the forest. In the core areas, especially, you can see from the lovely forests what much of the Indian countryside must have looked like, right up to the first half of this century. Also, it is a unique experience to visit the remote little village in the outer areas of the reserve to see how the way of life, totally untouched by outside influences, remains virtually the same as it has been for centuries. The villagers still live, for instance, with the daily threat of their cattle being carried away by leopards! TRAVELING WITHIN THE STATE Visitors coming from overseas can choose to come via Delhi or Mumbai, with Delhi being closer, and providing the ideal entry point through Jaipur. From Mumbai, the entry point into Rajasthan is Udaipur. The only other national airport used for civil aviation services is at Jodhpur. All points within the state are connected by both road and rail. While railway connections offer convenient overnighters, reservations are necessary. Most principal road heads are an average five-hour journey apart, making intra-state travel convenient. Scheduled

5 tourist bus services are available, and tourist cars can be hired. Rajasthan is visitor-friendly. Credit cards are accepted in most tourist towns, and certainly at hotels and shops. For visitors wary of the local cuisine, continental cuisine is widely available: where it may fail to be authentic, or come up to gourmet standards, it will most certainly offer the familiar taste of home. Bottled mineral water is widely available. The state has an extensive network of postal services and banks, as well as telecommunication links with the rest of the world. While it may not lack in modern amenities, Rajasthan's flavor is delightfully medieval - truly a place where time, as the cliché goes, has stood still. The natural splendour of Rajasthan One is usually given to assume that Rajasthan is all a desert region. Truth however, is that the region, in fact, has a varied topography, and includes from semi-arid, desert-like conditions to among the oldest mountains in the world, with lush verdant valleys. No wonder that its wildlife is so rich in variety, from tigers and leopards to endless varieties of deer, monkeys, reptiles including the Indian python, and a profusion of birdlife that includes water birds from distant lands. DESERT NATIONAL PARK The vast tracts of desert sands around Jaisalmer, with their wood fossils, have become the Desert National Park. To the layperson, there may be little about the desert that calls for ‘protection’, leave alone support wildlife, but the desert has a fragile eco-system that has a unique variety of wildlife species. These include the somewhat ungainly bird the Great Indian Bustard, which, because of this effort, has made a comeback in recent decades, though it is still on the endangered list. Since the sandy desert has only a limited scattering of indigenous trees, leaf cover being minimal, this environment is ideal for the Spiny-tail lizard that lives in underground colonies, Desert monitor lizard that look like miniature replicas of dinosaurs, Sandfish that ‘swim’ under the sand, Chameleons, and of course, Snakes that include the deadly Saw scaled viper and Sand krait. Other faunal species here include the Desert hare, Hedgehog, the Predatory Indian wolf, Desert fox, and Desert gerbil. However, it is with the Great Indian bustard that the Desert National Park is most closely associated; especially since its conservation efforts have borne fruit. A bird that lives in small flocks, it has strong legs meant for walking and feeds on everything from cereals and berries to grasshoppers, locusts, and even snakes. Other avifaunal species include a variety of Sand grouse, Gray partridge, Quails, Peafowl and some insect eating birds such as Bee-eaters, Shrikes, Orioles, Drongos, Warblers and Babblers can be found. Special mention needs to be made of the Houbara, the lesser bustard which was almost hunted to extinction, and which has now been allowed to flourish once more in the Thar Desert. The Desert National Park, unlike most wildlife preserves throughout the world, does not overwhelm with a profusion of either vegetation or wildlife, but it is precisely because of this that its preservation has ensured that a vital link in the eco-system has not been destroyed. Visitors to the park will need patience and perseverance to establish the sighting of wildlife, and though they may miss the ‘glamour’ of tiger sightings or a view of the long-legged bustard, the spectacular journey is every bit as rewarding. JAISALMER: Visit: During the winters. Overseas visitors may require special permission since the park is close to the Pakistan border; travel agents can help with procuring permissions. A good way to view the wildlife is camping out in the desert, but they must ensure that no infringement of the park rules is caused. OTHER SANCTUARIES Rajasthan has a large number of sanctuaries that are smaller, more inaccessible or lesser known than its more popular counterparts. Some of these are listed below:

6 BHENSRODGARH: Close to Kota (53 km), it consists of dry deciduous forests and is home to the Leopard, Sloth bear and Chinkara deer. DARRAH: Once the hunting preserve for the royal family of Kota, this sanctuary, 50 kms from Kota, is home to the Leopard, Sloth Bear, Chinkara Deer and the Indian Wolf. JAISAMAND: Located on the fringes of a vast man-made lake of the same name, the small sanctuary is picturesque and houses the Leopard, Wild Boar and a variety of Deer, while its waters are home to a population of crocodiles 50 kms from Udaipur. KUMBALGARH: A large sanctuary in the Aravallis, 120 kms from Udaipur, it has a formidable collection of wildlife that includes Leopards and Sloth bears, a variety of deer including the Chousinga or Four-horned Antelope, and the Ratel as well as the Flying Squirrel. MOUNT ABU SANCTUARY: Located on the fringes of the town of the same name, this small sanctuary is thickly forested. Wildlife includes the Leopard, Chinkara, Sloth Bear, Sambhar and Wild Boar. The slopes of the hills provide some of the state’s most interesting topography, especially since the height of this hill station keeps it cool even in the summer months. CHAMBAL: Just beyond Kota, along the banks of the river Chambal all the way to its confluence with the Jamuna, this is where the waters are rich with Gharial Crocodiles for which it is a breeding centre. Other wildlife includes the Caracal, Wolf, Black Buck and Chinkara. SITAMATA: In forests of bamboo and dry deciduous vegetation, 108 kms from Udaipur, this forested sanctuary provides rich foraging pastures for a variety of deer that include the Chousingha, and for Caracal, Wild Boar, Pangolin and Leopard. TALCHAPPAR: A very small sanctuary, 210 kms from Jaipur and in the Shekhawati region, this is home to a large population of graceful Black buck. Desert fox and Desert cat can also be spotted along with typical avifauna such as Partridge and Sand grouse KEOLADEO GHANA NATIONAL PARK One of the finest bird parks in the world, Keoladeo Ghana National Park is a reserve that offers protection to faunal species as well, though there is no doubt that this is primarily a bird sanctuary. Once a shooting preserve of the royal family of Bharatpur who diverted water from irrigation canals to flood the low depression, creating a permanent home for waterfowl, created the marshy swamplands. Today, 120 species of bird’s nest at Keoladeo, and the heronry is believed to be the best in the world. Several more species are migratory visitors, journeying to the park in the winters from distances as far as Siberia. The most famous of these winter migrants is the greatly endangered Siberian Crane though its numbers have reduced drastically from a few hundreds a few decades ago to barely a few birds now. Motorized vehicles are not encouraged within the park, and visitors navigate the narrow paths in between the artificially created lakes on bicycles, cycle rickshaws or on foot. They can observe bird life from closer quarters in boats. Painted storks, easily identifiable by their long, pink legs, can be seen nesting on treetops. The entire park is a medley of sounds, fluttering wings, and a great to-do about hunting for Fish, Aquatic Roots and other insects. Spoonbills and Ibises, Geese and Ducks, Cranes, Herons and Egrets, Storks, Pelicans and Flamingos, Cormorants and Darters, Kingfishers, Blue Jays, Shrikes, Orioles, Paradise Flycatchers, Parakeets, Eagles and Harriers take wing, settle down, or simply watch the rest of the winged denizens of the park go about their way. But it isn’t just birds that the park is noted for, though its mammalian and reptilian species expectedly get short shift. These include Wild boar and Deer (Chital, Blackbuck, Nilgai), Mongoose, Otters, Jackals, Fox, Hyena, Hare, Porcupine, the Rock python, and three feline species - Leopard, Jungle cat and Fishing cat. Though one of the country’s most well managed, and well-represented parks as far as the variety of wildlife and bird life is concerned, it is astonishingly easily accessible

7 located close to the township of Bharatpur, and barely an hour’s drive from Agra, and only a little more from Jaipur. Delhi too is reasonably close. Accommodation is available both within the park, and in its outskirts, to suit most budgets. The park is also unusual in that it is open round the year for visitors. RANTHAMBHOR NATIONAL PARK If there is a park that can almost guarantee tiger sightings; it must be Ranthambhor, its landscape dominated by the Vindhyan hill range with its steep escarpments. The ancient sedimentary limestone and sandstone rocks, perennial lakes, and dry deciduous vegetation are part of its indicative topography. Ranthambhor's great fort, in the background, is a royal presence, but abandoned for centuries, the only majesty here is the tiger’s presence. Once a hunting preserve for the maharajas of Jaipur, and now a Project Tiger reserve, the park has also shown that Tigers can live and breed in close proximity to human settlements. But the tiger isn’t the only predator at Ranthambhor, though it may be its most famous one. Leopards live in the higher vegetation, while the lakes are infested with marsh crocodiles on which the tigers sometimes prey. There are also Caracals, Jungle Cats, Jackals, Hyenas and Sloth Bears. Among foraging animals are deers (Sambhar, Chital, Nilgai, Chinkara), Wild boars and have course species such as Hare, mongoose, and Monitor lizard. With the attention one pays to the tiger, it is easy to slip up speaking about the bird life attracted to the park because of its aquatic habitat. The landscape, with its lakes, vegetation, the second-largest banyan tree in the country (in which langur’s have taken up residence), the occasional palace or building, make it one of the most picturesque parks in the country. SAWAI MADHOPUR, which is a rail terminal serves as the vital link to Ranthambhor, and offers accommodation for visitors. The park is closed in the peak summer and monsoon months. SPECIAL INTEREST TOURS IN THE LAP OF NATURE: Two things combine to make Rajasthan the ideal choice for special interest holidays - the amazing variations of its countryside, the historic nature of even isolated buildings that dot its landscape. Of course, Rajasthan is an easy state to discover because a network of road and rail connections makes travel relatively simple. And while there may be some curiosity about visitors, they are rarely harassed or troubled. Here then are some pointers for those who would like to discover the state’s more natural heritage in a non-tourist, non-packaged sense. GETTING AWAY FROM IT ALL: For those of you who would like to give the cities a miss, and discover the pleasures of living in small village communes, whether in erstwhile hunting lodges, summer retreats or in specially created cottages, the answer may well lie in persuading your travel agent to book you into some of these isolated resorts. The following list mentions the name of some of these places according to geographical location. ALWAR: Fort Kesroli, a professionally managed heritage hotel is isolated from the bustle of the busy world around it. Yet another escape can be to Lake Palace at Silliserh, a lake resort that is popular with picnickers. CHITTAURGARH: The Teekhi Magri Resort at Dhamotar is ideal for getting away from it all, breaking away from the isolation once in a while by paying a visit to the forts at Chittaurgarh. JODHPUR: Get to stay in the Samrau village to get a feel for the lifestyle of the village folk. KUMBALGARH: The hilly tracts of this area are best savoured from Aodhi, one of Rajasthan’s most charming getaways.

8 MANDAWA: Even though Mandwa, and much of the Shekhawati region, is firmly planted on the tourist map, the Desert Resort complex, set at a distance in the sand dunes, recreates the wonderful ambience of a Rajasthani village. NAGAUR: One of the least explored places in Rajasthan, its fort can be savoured at leisure while you take your accommodations at Nagaur Fort (tents). NAWALGARH: A part of the Shekhawati circuit, the Roop Niwas Palace Hotel is quiet and isolated, set in a garden with a wonderful air of seclusion. PALI: Rajasthan’s Pali district has a number of quiet getaways that include the comfortable Maharani Bagh and Sardar Samand resorts, and two former hunting lodges at two feudal holdings, Bagon-ka-Bagh at Ghanerao and Leopard Lair at Bera. PUSHKAR: During the November fair this pilgrimage centre, with its colourful camel fair and Pushkar Resorts sets up a huge tent camp that provides an experience quite unlike any other with its profusion of colour and celebration. TONK: In the only Muslim kingdom of Rajasthan, the Raj Mahal is the perfect spot from where you can discover the offerings of this colourful, provincial town. UDAIPUR: The Shikarbadi, once a royal hunting lodge, and now run by the family as an idyllic, if luxurious retreat, recreates the farm experience of wealthy landowners in Rajasthan. TRAVELING AT LEISURE: With a map to guide you and plan your itinerary, keep your times flexible as you set out to discover the unknown face of this colourful state. Carry timetables of the railways and roadways with you, if you really want them, but otherwise you can go pretty much without the clock dictating your moves. Most places in Rajasthan offer some kind of accommodation, and when this is not in family-run, heritage properties, it could be in the form of government-run tourist bungalows, Circuit Houses, Irrigation or Forest Bungalows, PWD Bungalows etc, built for travelling officials. When rooms are vacant, they are given out to casual visitors, and the charges are extremely low. ANGLING HOLIDAYS: Though it may seem a little difficult to imagine, this desert state abounds with a large number of fresh water lakes, and these are teeming with fish because few people in the state eat fish. If you are inclined to set off with a rod and reel, the best fishing opportunities will be at some of the following lakes: AJMER: Savar and Junia. ALWAR: Jaisamand and Siliserh. DAUSA: Kalakho. JAIPUR: Chetoli, Bairath and Ramgarh, the last with a lovely hunting lodge turned into a hotel where you can stay. PALI: Hemawas and Jawai. If you do not carry your own rods and bait, even makeshift ones could do for the purpose, with earthworms as bait.

DETAILS OF RAJASTHAN TOURISM (RTDC) HOTELS Motel Hotel / Khadim Meenal

CITY Ajmer Alwar

District Ajmer Alwar

Code STD 0145 0144

No. Room Room Room Room Bed Of Bed Catg. Bar Seeing Phone Suite A/C Air Cool Ord. Dorm. Total No. Sight Boat 627490 1 30 21 4 10 122 A YES NO NO 22852 NO 2 4 NO NO 12 B YES NO NO

9 Khartal Motel Motel Saras Dholamaru Vrindawati Panna Motel Motel Motel Haveli Motel Durg Café Gangaur Swagatam Teej Tourist Moomal T.Bungalow Ghoomer Chambal Motel Shikhar Gokul Yatrika Paniharin Motel Sarovar T.Village Jheel T.V. Shilpi Motel Motel Gavri Samdhani Tiger Den Jhoomar Baori Vinayak Motel Lake Place Kajri

Barmer Barr Behror Bharatpur Bikaner Bundi Chittor Dasua Deogarh Dholpur Fatehpur Gulabpura Jaipur Jaipur Jaipur Jaipur Jaipur Jaisalmer Jhunjhunu Jodhpur Kota Mahuwa Mount Abu Nathdwara Nathdwara Pali Pokharan Pushkar Pushkar Ramgarh Ranakpur Ratangarh Ratanpur Rishabdeo Sam Sariska Sawai Sawai Shahpura Siliserh Udaipur

Barmer Pali Alwar Bharatpur Bikaner Bundi Chittor Dasua Rajsamand Dholpur Sikar Bhilwara Jaipur Jaipur Jaipur Jaipur Jaipur Jaisalmer Jhunjhunu Jodhpur Kota Dausa Sirohi Rajsamand Rajsamand Pali Jaisalmer Ajmer Ajmer Jaipur Pali Churu Dungarpur Udaipur Jaisalmer Alwar Sawai Sawai Jaipur Alwar Udaipur

02982 02937 01494 05644 0151 0747 01472 01427 02904 05642 01571 01483 0141 0141 0141 0141 0141 02974 01592 0291 0744 07461 02974 02953 02953 02932 029942 0145 0145 01426 02934 01567 NO 02907 02992 0144 07462 07462 01422 0144 0294

22956 84224 20049 23700 529621 32473 41238 31033 52011 20006 20293 23645 320538 371641 200595 203199 360238 52392 38266 544010 326527 33260 38944 30917 31119 31839 2275 72040 72074 52170 85074 22286 No. 30145 52392 41342 20495 21333 22264 86322 401501

NO NO 2 NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO 8 NO NO NO NO 3 NO NO 2 NO 1 NO NO NO NO NO NO NO 2 2 1 NO 3 NO

NO NO 9 12 6 NO 6 NO NO 1 1 NO NO 50 NO 20 NO 17 1 23 5 NO 5 NO 1 1 NO 2 NO NO 1 NO NO 1 NO 10 5 NO NO 2 19

4 2 4 11 10 2 14 1 4 3 5 NO NO 13 19 26 15 12 NO 26 5 5 31 4 4 5 6 12 10 10 6 5 4 5 NO 18 5 8 6 5 39

NO NO 4 5 16 5 10 NO NO NO 2 1 1 NO 12 NO 18 23 5 26 3 NO 40 NO NO NO 1 23 20 NO 5 NO 2 2 8 NO NO NO NO NO 5

NO NO 6 7 6 NO NO NO NO NO 4 NO NO NO 6 17 NO 10 NO 6 10 NO 6 8 6 8 NO 12 NO NO 8 NO NO 7 NO 6 NO NO NO NO 15

8 4 44 63 70 14 60 2 8 8 20 2 2 126 68 109 66 130 12 156 36 10 164 16 16 24 14 81 60 20 32 10 10 23 16 66 24 18 12 20 141

B B B A B B B B B B B B A A A A B A B A B B A B B B B A B B B B B A B A A A B A A

NO NO YES NO YES NO YES NO NO NO NO NO YES YES YES YES YES YES NO YES NO NO NO YES NO YES NO NO NO NO NO NO NO YES NO YES YES NO YES YES YES

Refund Rules Period 30 days prior to arrival date 29 days to 7 days prior to arrival date 6 days to 24 hours prior to arrival date Within 24 hours to arrival date

Refundable amount 90% 75% 50% Nil

SAHEKHAWATI CIRCUITS Shikar – Nawalgarh – Dundlod – Mandawa – Fatehpur – Jhunjhunu The area of Shekhawati covers several villages and towns in northeastern Rajasthan, which can be approached from Bikaner, Jaipur and Delhi comprising of the Shikar and Jhunjhunu districts. Small towns dot these two districts and contain within themselves some of the most elaborate havelis, step wells, and temples. When traveling around this region, you will stumble across some truly marvelous treasures. Even today, the entire region of Shekhawati is known for its exquisite frescoes popularly called the ‘open art gallery’. No other region, anywhere in the world, has such a large concentration of frescoes. This is even more interesting as the landscape here is totally bare – flat and colorless.

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10 SIGHTSEEING: Rao Shekha, the founder of Shekhawati, came to power at the young age of 12 and established a reign that lasted 43 years. The Rajput nobles, who ruled over the small thikanas, or fiefdoms, became great patrons of art and financed the frescoes on their havelis. Up to the early 19th century the themes were largely religious. Other historic events, personages, battle scenes, and folk heroes were also painted in great detail. These paintings were a record of those times. By the end of the 19th century, there was a slight change in the patronage. Marwaris, the business community, found itself in a position of strength. When the East India Company began to make its presence felt in this part of Rajasthan, it opened several avenues for the hardworking and enterprising Marwari. Volume of trade increased and the Marwaris began to spread their braches across the country. Even after spending several years away from their homeland, these now successful and wealthy businessmen remained true sons of the soil. While they lived austerely in their adopted cities, they sent back huge sums of money to their families. Spending large sums on the welfare of their community – wells, reservoirs, schools, colleges, dharmashalas and gaushalas were financed. Most of them had left their families behind and they returned to build some huge mansions for them. They were in a position to show off their new status and there was no better way of doing this than commissioning the most intricate frescoes on their havelis. Very soon it became customary to have a painted haveli and the artists were kept busy moving from one village to the next. The demand for these painters kept growing and very soon unskilled painters and masons too began to get involved in the paintings, reflecting those times and very soon the purely mythological themes gave way to western influences. Cars, trains, airplanes, ships, telephones, foreigners in hats, suits and gowns began to appear on the walls with scenes from Lord Krishna’s life. Most of the villages of Shekhawati have kept their rustic charm intact making a drive around these painted towns a wonderful experience. While the painted mansions are certainly the focal point here, don’t miss the unique architectural style of the havelis. They are marvels of good design. Several courtyards and inner chambers were designed to keep the women folk safe and comfortable yet segregate them from the outside. The havelis looked like huge blocks but were so ingeniously planned that they provided adequate protection from the harsh summers. Other monuments to look out for are the step wells, four-pillared wells, temples and dharmashalas. Some of the important towns that should not be missed are Shikar – where the temples of Gopinath, Raghunath and Madan Mohan are interesting as are the biyani havelis with their unusual blue and white colors. Two other important temples in the vicinity are the Harsh Nath temple and Jeen Mata temple. The fort of Lachmangarh is one of the most impressive and imposing in Shekhawati. Try to get a bird’s eye view of the town below – it has been designed to resemble the planned city of Jaipur. Ramgarh is famous not only for the havelis of Poddars but also for its rustic wood furniture. Fatehpur has some beautiful frescoes in Indian as well as western styles. Particularly noteworthy are the Chamariya and Singhania havelis. Khatu Shyamji is more famous for its temple of Shri Shyamji and draws devotees throughout the year. People walk several miles to offer homage at the temple from all over India. Nawalgarh is home to some of the leading merchant families of the country. This is also the place to find some of the finest frescoes in the entire region. Look for Roop Niwas, Poddar haveli, Saat Haveli, few old temples, forts and heritage hotels. The Goenka havelis are also famous. The fort of Mandawa dominates the town and it was one of the earliest heritage hotels in this area. The Chokhani, Ladia and Saraf havelis should be seen not only their frescoes but also for their design. A temple dedicated to Shiva is also worth a visit.

11 If carrying excess baggage does not daunt you, then buy rustic, carved wooden furniture and other items for your home. Quaint little wooden antiques that belong to the late 19th century, or may be the early 20th century, can be found all over this region. If pots and pans interest you then do look out for some traditional cooking vessels in the markets.

MERWARA MARWAR CIRCUIT Ajmer – Pushkar – Merta – Nagaur Located in the heart of Rajasthan, Ajmer, founded in the 7th century A.D. by Raja Ajai Pal Chauhanis has a very interesting past. The Chauhan dynasty reigned here. It was from Ajmer that the last Hindu ruler of Delhi, Prithviraj Chauhan, controlled a major part of northern India. His exploits are related with the valiance of a war hero, becoming a force to reckon with in history. The Chauhans dominated Ajmer for many years and it was only toward the end of 12 th century that Prithviraj was killed in the battle with Muhammad Ghori. This totally changed the history of the region. The importance of Ajmer diminished with the death of its most valiant ruler and Ajmer passed under the Delhi Sultanate. From then on, Ajmer saw many upheavals until Emperor Akbar came to the throne in 1556 and gave Ajmer the status of a full-fledged province. He also used Ajmer as a base for his operations in Rajputana. But Ajmer saw some more turbulence when the Mughals, the Marathas and British all tried to interfere in the affairs of this province. However, from 1818 AD onwards, the British Empire gained full control here and it remained so until India’s independence. The British left behind a legacy that still lives on in the fine education institutions, the colonial bungalows, the clubs and the old railway quarters. SIGHTSEEING: Today, Ajmer is more important as the final resting place of the great Sufi Saint –Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti. Muslims from all over the world revere the Dargah Sharif, where the saint lies buried. This has been so for centuries now. Even Akbar walked to the Dargah all the way from Agra. Every year lakhs of Muslim devotees gather here to pay homage to the Garib Nawaz, the protector of the poor. If you want to see an altogether different side of this of this sleepy little town then make sure you’re here during the annual URS. This town where very little activity seems to be going on, on normal days, suddenly booms into a bustling, lively place. While you’re around the dargah, don’t miss seeing the beautiful Adhaidhin-ka-jhonpra with its ornate calligraphic inscriptions. There are other areas of interest like the Taragarh fort and the Ana Sagar Lake with its marble pavilions. Just as the Muslims revere the Dargah here, the Hindus accord the same sanctity to the holy town of Pushkar. Located just 11 kilometers from Ajmer, the holy lake of Pushkar is believed to have been created by lord Brahma himself. It is as important as Benaras of Puri. Devout Hindus believe that it is essential to visit Pushkar at least once in their lifetime. No pilgrimage is considered complete without a dip in the holy Pushkar lake. Pushkar has as many as 400 temples and 52 ghats and the only temple in the country that is dedicated to Brahma is found here. While Pushkar is a haven for the religiously inclined, it is also the venue of one of the country’s most colorful cattle fairs – the Pushkar fair. This annual fair is an unforgettable event when the entire little town is taken over by lakhs of animals and visitors. This is certainly the right time to be in Pushkar. Just relax and let yourself go, you’ll be carried away by the heady exuberance that is so much a part of the mela. Ride camels, shop at the colorful market, watch the sunset over the sand dunes... you can even try donning the local outfits--gorgeous odhnis (scarves) and turbans. Do what you will; Pushkar fair is an once-in-a-lifetime experience that you will want to repeat.

12 The little 16th century town of Merta has much to offer historically. Drive around this fortified town and see some of the ruins that go back several centuries. The famous temple of Charbhuja is located in the centre of the town and visited by devotees through out the year. The saint poetess Meera Bai was also associated with this temple. Another famous shrine is the mosque erected by Emperor Aurangzeb on the ruins of Shiva Temple. It is an imposing edifice, as are the various Hindu shrines surrounding It. Nagaur, on the other hand, is a small town with numerous fascinating monuments. The Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan granted his town to Raja Amar Singh and the focal point here is the fort itself. Now painstakingly restored, the fort has some splendid palaces, temples, and palatial mansions, some of which have been built by Akbar and Shah Jahan. The beautiful Moti Mahal, Badal Mahal, and Hawa Mahal are superb architectural creations. The walls of the baradari are adorned with some exquisite frescoes that are a combination of Persian and Nagaur styles. These paintings depict various episodes from the Hindu epics Ramayan and the Mahabharata. Nagaur is also the venue for annual cattle fair that draws people from distant places. It's a good idea to combine one’s trip to Nagaur with the fair. Though not as well attended as the Pushkar fair, it is still interesting to join the simple village folk, dressed in their best, as they buy and sell in festive gaiety. Participate in the folk dances, listen to music or just sit back and watch the camel races and bull fights. Marble artifacts, miniature paintings and traditional textiles from this region are great mementos.

DESERTS CIRCUIT Jodhpur - Barmer - Jaisalmer – Bikaner Rajasthan has long been synonymous with camels, sand dunes and women dressed in bright colorful hues. Many are pleasantly surprised however, when they come here setting their eyes on expanding stretches of greenery. Lush green hills and deep valleys, the lake palaces and gardens. If you are wondering just where the deserts lies, welcome to Marwar. This is your desert land. Come and explore sand dunes, taste the thrill of riding on camel backs. Drink in the dazzle of colors in ethnic art and costumes of the folks from Marwar. SIGHTSEEING: Jodhpur can be your ideal starting point. Popularly called the Sun City, Jodhpur gives the impression of being a rugged, no-nonsense city that has little time for decorations and artistic details. But take a look at Mehrangarh Fort, one of the most impressive and formidable structures that look down from a height of 125 m. Once you’ve entered, it's another world altogether – magnificent palaces with marvelously carved panels and latticed windows like the Moti Mahal, Phool Mahal, Sheesh Mahal and the Daulat Khana, Spend a lot of time in the museum, one of the best in Rajasthan, and see the fabulous collection of Jodhpur royalty – palanquin, howdahs, furniture, miniature paintings, musical instruments, and costumes. There are other interesting areas in and around Jodhpur like the Jaswant Thada, Girdikot and Sardar Market, and the 20th century Umaid Bhavan Palace. A little further away from the city is the Balsamand lake and gardens, Mandore with its unusual Hall of Heroes, Mahamandir temple, and Kailana lake; it's more than a handful for sore eyes. The observant visitor will notice soon that most of the houses here use the red stone typical of Jodhpur, tainting it as a city wearing the red uniform look. Today, craftsmen, use the stone to produce a wide range of gift items that the visitor can take away as souvenirs. There is a great demand for this stone from other cities for making carved pillars and balconies shaped to give a unique look to houses. Barmer is another thriving desert city, not yet polluted by the tourist population. A city that traces its origins to the 12th century. Once you're mounted on the ancient camel

13 route; adventurous barren land and rough terrain surrounding the town wait to the explored. Barmer is famous for its intricately carved wooden furniture and the hand block printing industry. The ideal time to visit Barmer is during its grand festival time, the Tilwara Cattle Fair. Kiradu, near Barmer is famed as an archaeologist’s dream; with ruins of beautiful 12th century temples well preserved for the beholder's pleasure. Jaisalmer the golden city, nothing can quite prepare you for the magic and artistic brilliance of this city. Do not wrongly assume that visiting one desert city means having seen them all. A visit to Jaisalmer will prove this. Worth a visit is the fort, which seems to emerge out of the desert haze, its yellow sandstone walls and bastions taking on a golden hue in the afternoon sun. The fort dominates the small city that spreads around it. In the past, getting to Jaisalmer was a task. Its remote location kept it safe from external influences, very few invading armies had the courage to cross the harsh desert to attack Jaisalmer. Even during the British ‘Raj’, Jaisalmer was the last to sign the Instrument of Agreement with the British. This remote citadel is today famous for its carved havelis, its narrow cobbled streets and its well-preserved Jain temples. The small market located outside the fort is the main hub of activity, you can pick up a large variety of local crafts here and explore the streets on foot. The other places that you would like to see are Gadsisar lake, Ludrava, Aakal and the royal cenotaphs at Bada Bagh. For a closer look at the sand dunes, get somebody to take you to Sam! Ride a camel on the desert dunes and gear yourself for an unforgettable experience of watching a sunset over the desert horizon. At Bikaner, some more desert life awaits you here. This city lies on the northern tip of the triangle among the desert cities. A city that goes back over 500 years when it was founded by one of the princes of the Jodhpur clan. An interesting bit of history about these desert cities is that although they were located on the major trade routes that connected Central Asia and North India with the Gujarat ports, outside influences were minimal. This is true of Bikaner as well. Like most of the other cities of the desert region, Bikaner has been able to maintain its medieval flavor. The wealth of its architectural heritage lies in its forts, palaces and temples. Two outstanding palaces of Bikaner are the Lalgarh Palace and Gajner Palace. Other important sights are Junagarh Fort and the Camel-Breeding farm. For those inclined to archaeology, it would b interesting to know that the Rajasthan State Archives is located here. The vast collection of rare exhibits covering almost every period of Indian history. When in Bikaner don’t miss the famous temple of Karni Mata at Deshnok, Gajner, for lovers of wildlife, and Kolayat, an ancient pilgrim center. Visitors will love the camel wool products of this region. Carpets, durries, carved wooden furniture, stone carving and block printing are popular items to pick up from here. Other desert crafts like leatherwork, basket weaving and pottery are as interesting.

GODWAR CIRCUIT Mount Abu – Ranakpur – Jalore Mount Abu, located in the southwestern corner of Rajasthan, sees people from everywhere escaping to this cool, scenic hill station. It is also a major pilgrim center. The Aravalli mountain range that cuts across Rajasthan reaches its greatest height at Guru Shikhar. Interestingly, not many people are aware that this is also the highest point between the Nilgiris in the south and the Himalayan range up North. The origin of Mount Abu goes back several centuries. The Padam Puran relates the story of how this holy city came into existence. Once Nandini, the cow belonging to the venerable sage Vashishta, was trapped in a deep chasm and could not free herself.

14 When all efforts failed, the sage appealed to Lord Shiva for assistance. Saraswati, the divine stream, flooded the pit and the cow floated up. Once this cow was free, Vashishtha approached the great Himalayan and asked him to fill the gorge permanently to avoid further mishaps. The youngest son of Himalayan, with the assistance of Arbud, the mighty snake filled the chasm. The place came to be called Mount Arbud and was later reduced to its present name. For those keen to teach more about the history of Rajasthan it will be interesting to note that this place was also the site for one of the most sacred Hindu rites-a yagya. The same sage Vashishtha for the purification of the ancient fighting caste, the Kshatriyas, performed this. From this mystical fire rose the mighty Rajputs who later dominated the history of Rajasthan. SIGHTSEEING: Due to the presence of sages and seers here, this place became a holy retreat. But for most visitors today, Mount Abu is a hill station with verdant green getaways to make a tourist's trip delightful. The Nakki lake, 1200 meters above sea level, is picturesquely set amidst hills and is believed to have been carved out by the gods with their nails. It is a popular spot for boating. Be prepared to go for longs walks and treks as you visit the spectacular Sunset Point, Toad’s Rock, and the beautifully sculpted hill temple of Gaumukh and Arbuda. Mount Abu was also an important Hindu Vaishnava and Shaivite pilgrim center up to the 11th century. Today, it is recognized the world over for its magnificent Jain temples. No visit to Mount Abu can be complete without a trip to the famed Delwara temples. Let your mind be dazzled by the exquisite carvings on stone. When you look at these temples you find yourself at a loss for words to describe this sheer poetry in stone, its elegance in marble, as no description can really do justice to this beauty. These are better seen than described. More such marvelous carvings can be found in the 15th century temple complex of Ranakpur. This is once of the five holy places of the Jain community. The most important temple is dedicated to Rishabhji and sprawls on some 48,000 sq. ft. and has 29 halls and 1444 pillars, all distinctively carved. Feel free to explore its various mandaps and study the intricate carvings, your guide will point out the fact that no two pillars are alikethe carved design is different on each one. It makes you admire the skills of the stone carvers of so many hundred years ago. The musical chimes of temple bells, the gentle breeze flowing through the carved corridors, in fact, the serenity of the surroundings tempts you to spend more relaxed moments here than you may have planned. Lush green hills with a wealth of flora and fauna, peaceful surroundings and very little traffic make the drive to Ranakpur a very pleasant one. It is a typical small town of Rajasthan where the hustle and bustle of the bigger cities is absent. Take time to drink in the countryside, explore the forts and the temples and observe the simple lifestyle of the rustic and friendly rural folk.

VAGAD CIRCUIT Dungarpur – Banswara Dungarpur and Banswara are the two important cities of the Vagad region. They have an interesting topography, ranging from the wild and rugged terrain in the northeast to fertile plains of alluvial soil in the southwest. The magnificent Mahi river separates these two districts from each other. This region was the stronghold of the Bhils and had its own unique lifestyle. Outside influences were minimal, as the region was quite inaccessible. Even today, this region does not fall in the regular tourist circuit but should be explained for its natural scenic beauty. The area is rich in teak, Mahuwa and mango trees. The

15 untouched-forested areas provide shelter to the jackal, jungle cat, Indian fox, hyena; black faced monkey and porcupine. This area is ideal for those interested in outdoor life. The terrain is ideal for walks and treks; you can spend your time studying the flora and fauna that is unique to this area. This region is so different from the rest of Rajasthan that it is like being in a different state. Also, not being on the tourist circuit, the facilities are a little limited here, but you will find enough to make your trip comfortable. In fact, it is just the place to explore if you’re looking for the unexpected. Let yourself be surprised… SIGHTSEEING: Dungarpur was founded in the early 13th century. Famous for its unique architectural style, the areas of interest here are Udai Bilas Palace and Juna Palace. Another interesting place to visit is the famous shrine dedicated to Shrinathji that lies on the bank of the Gaib Sagar Lake. The water bodies in Dungarpur attract a large variety of migratory birds during the winters. Other commonly seen birds are partridges, peafowl, quails, cuckoos, eagles and vultures. Udai Bilas Palace is a good example of Rajput architecture with its intricately sculptured pillars and panels, impressive balconies, bracketed windows and marvelous panels. Juna Mahal is a seven-storied structure, resembling a fortress with crenellated walls, turrets, narrow entrances and corridors. The interiors are embellished with beautiful frescos, miniature paintings, glass and mirror work. While invaders vandalized some of the most beautiful palaces all over Rajasthan, Dungarpur was fortunate to have been located in the deep interiors. Its wall paintings are well preserved and there is very little damage to the buildings. The surrounding areas are full of interesting little temple towns, archaeological sites of great importance and ruins of ancient kingdoms. Visit Baneshwar located at the confluence of the Som and Mahi rivers. The Baneshwar temple is much revered by the Bhils. Other temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Lord Brahma are worth seeing for their exquisitely carved pillars and gateways. This is also the place to be in when the Bhils celebrate their biggest and most important fair-the Baneshwar Fair. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this is the largest gathering of the Bhils who collect here from all over, including Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh. A visit to the fair can be great fun as you mingle with the crowds and watch the simple tribal folk enjoying themselves. Dev Somnath is a splendid 12th century temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is an exact replica of the original Somnath temple in Gujarat. When the original temple was destroyed several times by the Muslim invaders, devout Hindus decided to create this replica in the interiors so that it would remain safe. Galiyakot was once the capital of the Parmar kings but today it is renowned for its magnificent shrine dedicated to Sayed Fakhruddin. Thousands of devotees gather here during the URS. Other important places to see are Baroda, the erstwhile capital of Vagad, where some temples still survive and Bhuvaneshwar, which can be visited for its famous temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Banswara is another big town of Vagad to be visited for its natural beauty. The name Banswara too has been derived from bans, or bamboo which once grew in abundance here. The undulating green hills, deep forested valleys and lakes gave this area its own unique feel. More than its architectural heritage, this region is a nature lover’s paradise. You can go for walks and treks, can watch birds and study the flora and allow yourself to enjoy the simple pleasures that keep the Bhils happy. Bhils constitute half of the total population of Banswara. A stonewall, now in ruins, surrounds the ancient town. An impressive palace of the former rulers of Banswara stands overlooking the town. There are several areas of interest that can be explored in and around Banswara.

16 The Mahi River has a number of islands that make for interesting spots; there is also a well-maintained garden at the kagdi Pickup and the Mahi dam. Other lakes like Anand Sagar and Dalab Lake are also worth a visit. For the adventurous, there are several interesting places located a short distance away from Banswara. Arthuna is famous for their carved temples, Talwara has ruins of some ancient temples that are famous for their carved idols, the temple of goddess Tripur Sundari is dedicated to Goddess Durga and has a beautiful idol of the goddess shaped out of black stone.

MEWAR CIRCUIT Udaipur – Kumbhalgarh – Nathdwara – Chittaurgarh Rajasthan Mewar region encompasses Lofty hills, Shimmering lakes, Deep valleys and much more. It is a land rich in royal heritage, with romantic Water Palaces, historic hilltop forts and beautiful gardens. Explore the beautiful region with its rich cultural heritage, visit it’s numerous picturesque villages and you will discover that the charm of Mewar is undoubtedly unique. SIGHT SEEING: Its lakes, its marble palaces, and its beautiful gardens dominate Udaipur, the enchanting City of Lakes. The founder, Maharana Udai Singh, was overcome by the misfortunes that his old capital of Chittaurgarh had to face. Weary of repeated attacks that he had to face, Udai Singh sought the help of a holy man and asked him to suggest a safe place for his new capital to the banks of Lake Pichhola. The holy man assured him that his new capital would never be conquered. The city of Udaipur was thus founded and grew around the Lakes. The City Palace is the focal point of the city and has several areas of interest like the Suraj, Gokhada, Badi Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, Bhim Vilas, Chini Chitrashala, Mor Chowk, the Zenana Mahal, Fateh Prakash and Darbar Hall. Located close to the City Palace is the Jagadish temple with its imposing sculpted figures and heavily ornamented interiors. The abundance of water in Udaipur made it possible for the town planners to design some well-laid out gardens. These were the spots where the Maharanis would come to enjoy the natural surroundings amidst the beautiful flowers and fountains. The 18th century Sahelion Ki Bari, or the garden of Maidens, is a popular tourist spot with its fountains and delicately carved kiosks and elephants in marble. Udaipur has other attractions like Gulab bagh, Doodh Talai, Jag Mandir, Moti Magri, Bharatiya Lok Kala Mandal, Ahad and the Sajjangarh Palace. As you move around this beautiful city, there is a lot that catches the eye, it is as if this city has been laid out with the tourist in mind. Thankfully, with a growing awareness towards conservation, numerous heritage sites have been preserved. The Ahar village and Museum are of great archeological importance. A little further away from the city are Shri Eklingji Temple complex which houses 108 temples, Nagda where the temples of Saas-Bahu, or Shastrabahu and Adbhutji are worth seeing. More temples can be found at Rajsamand and Kankroli, located 60 Km. from Udaipur. To the north of Udaipur lies the battlefield of Haldighati. The very ground here is sacred as it carries memories of the famous battle between Maharana Pratap and Emperor Akbar in 1567. It was a fierce historic battle where the Rajputs fought so valiantly that his encounter is referred to in murals and ballads throughout Rajasthan. Maharana Pratap National Memorial is being built at this site to pay a homage to this great warrior for his spirit of freedom. Nathdwara is a renowned center of pilgrimage for the devotes of Krishna and Vishnu alike. It is a town devoted totally to the Shrinathji temple and all activities in this little town revolve around the famous temple of Shrinathji. Let yourself be carried away by the religious atmosphere as you wander around the small market with tiny shops selling

17 portraits of Shrinathji, beads, silver and minakari mementoes, and other related items. While you are there don’t forget to try the special prasad, or temple offerings, and sweets that are popular with the devotees. If any one fort of Rajasthan had to be singled out of its glorious history and its story of heroism, then it would be fort of Chittaurgarh. Countless tales of this rugged fort and the battles fought here by its legendary heroes fill the pages of history books. Equally well known were the brave and heroic Maharanis of Chittaur. As you explore the fort and its various palaces and temples do lookout for Rani Padmini’s palace. The beauty of Queen Padmini of Chittaur attracted the Sultan of Delhi, Allauddin Khilji so much that he set out to attack the fort and win her in battle. A fierce battle was fought, 7000 warriors lost their lives but the Sultan could not get Padmini. The Maharani, with her entire entourage, committed Jauhar. It is one of the Chittaurgarh's most enduring stories and one that is told and re-told countless times. Travel to the west of Chittaurgarh to reach the second most important bastion of MewarKumbhalgarh. Covering the are of 12 Sq. Km. this formidable fort fell only once to the army of Akbar and that too because the water supply was contaminated by the enemy forces. Even today it is the one of most inaccessible forts of Rajasthan and reached with great difficulty. It served as a refuge to the rulers of Mewar in times of strife and contained within its ramparts almost an entire township, self-contained to withstand along siege. Explore the huge complex and see for yourself how well prepare the rulers had to be. Some areas of interest are the palaces and temples and water storage tanks. It is a height of 1100 meters and if you walk around the ramparts you can get an excellent view of the countryside. The fort is also significant for being the birthplace of Maharana Pratap. This region is famous for its marble, miniature paintings, kundan and meenakari work and clay and wooden products. The colorful mud panels of Molela are available in Udaipur.

HADOTI CIRCUIT Bundi - Kota - Jhalawar –Baran Hadoti, in the southeast is one of Rajasthan’s least explored regions. It is a region full of great historic towns with a proud heritage dating back several centuries. Walk right into a bygone world as you visit pre-historic cave paintings and look for other traces of early civilization. It will delight the archaeologist in you as you drive along the Chambal and stumble upon relics from the past. Hadoti has a wealth of beautifully sculpted temples that seem frozen in time. SIGHTSEEING: Bundi, the first major destination in Hadoti to be reached from Jaipur, has a strong association with Rudyard Kipling, who drew inspiration from the beautiful town and its surroundings. Set in a narrow encircling gorge, the palaces and fortress of Bundi seem to come to life straight out of a fairy tale. The Bundi palace presents a fine example of Rajput architecture with its carved brackets, pillars and balconies. Don’t miss the famous Chitra Shala to feast on the exquisite paintings of Bundi that adorn its walls. You can also visit the Phool Sagar Palace, Shikar Burj and Sar Bagh. The step wells of Bundi are works of art and a very beautiful example can be found in the center of the town – the Raniji Ki Baodi. This step well is profusely decorated with carved pillars and ornate archways leaving the onlooker amazed how even the mundane task of drawing water from the well, was embellished for beauty. This region has retained the beauty of the past. Yet, there is the bustling pace of city life, close by in Kota. This is a thoroughly modern, industrial city with its smoke emitting factories and an incredible number of vehicles on its crowded roads. But it also has its majestic fort and palaces. A lot of other reminders of its past are scattered all over the

18 city, like the fort with its museum and the Jag Mandir, the Brijraj Bhawan Palace and the Umaid Bhawan Palace. Kota is famous for its saris called Kotadoria.

Brij – Mewat Circuit Alwar –Sariska – Deeg – Bharatpur - Karauli – Ranthambhor Alwar -- is a relic city of Rajasthan. Surrounded by prehistoric as well as historic sites that are an archaeologist’s delight. Once, a part of the Matsya kingdom, a trip to Alwar is like being lost in a bygone era. The area is protected from the desert sands by the Aravalli range. Providing another advantage, it crown Alwar with a lot of picturesque locations. The entire region is a delight to behold: medieval forts and palaces, gardens and wildlife, wooded hills providing shelter to a large variety of flora and fauna. Today, Alwar has evolved as an important industrial center and is one of Delhi’s satellite towns. Striking a balance between old world charm and modern conveniences, making it a worthwhile tourist destination. SARISKA TIGER RESERVE: This game sanctuary, 20 miles southwest of Al war, was once the personal hunting ground of the Maharajas of Al war. It became a sanctuary in 1955 and was taken up under project tiger in 1979. It covers an area of 320 square miles (with a core area of 192 square miles). The forested hills of Sariska are among the best places to view tigers in India. There is a tiger population of approximately thirty here. Unlike other sanctuaries, the tigers here can sometimes be sighted by day. These daytime sightings are on the increase, with the tigers gradually becoming more confident with human beings around. The best time of the year to see the tigers is during the summer months, when they come out to the water holes to drink and when there is less jungle foliage to provide them with cover. Other animals here are panthers (which tend not to overlap in the same areas with tigers), jungle cats, and caracals. In addition, there are the Nilgai, Chital, Sambar, Wild Boar, and Porcupine. The reserve is also rich in Birds, including gray partridge, quail, sand grouse, and white – breasted kingfisher. The best way to see the animals is to drive through the reserve either in the early morning or in the late evening. While there are paved roads within the reserve, and you can drive through it by car, it might be preferable to hire a jeep so that you can go off the regular track into the interiors of the forest. In the core areas, especially, you can see from the lovely forests what much of the Indian countryside must have looked like, right up to the first half of this century. Also, it is a unique experience to visit the remote little village in the outer areas of the reserve to see how the way of life, totally untouched by outside influences, remains virtually the same as it has been for centuries. The villagers still live, for instance, with the daily threat of their cattle being carried away by leopards! SILISERH: En route to Sariska, 08 miles southwest of Al war, is the water palace of Siliserh and a pretty lake ringed by low, wooded hills. There is a romantic legend about this palace. Once, a young raja of Al war was out riding when he heard a beautiful village maiden singing. He immediately fell in love with her. She seemed to reciprocate his feeling, but her brothers suddenly arrived on the scene and, infuriated at what they saw to be an insult to their sister’s honor, were about to kill the raja. The raja then revealed his identity and promised to marry the girl. He built this palace for her so that she could look out at her old village across the lake’s water. The palace is now a rather shabby hotel, but it’s worth stopping here briefly, sitting on the lovely terrace, and watching the cormorants diving for fish in the waters of the lake. ALWAR: Alwar, paradoxically, was both the oldest and newest of all the Rajput Kingdoms. On the one hand, it traced its traditions back to the kingdom of Viratnagra that flourished here around 1500 BC. On the other, it was officially created – carved out of the Martha territories – by the British as late as the 1770’s. The rulers of Altar were distantly related to the Kachhawaha dynasty of Jaipur and, until the mid – 18th century,

19 were merely the chieftains of two villages in Jaipur state. But, by skillfully aligning themselves with the right party at the right time – the Jats of Bharatpur, the Kachhawahas, the Mughals and, finally, the East India Company – they rapidly jockeyed themselves into a position of political consequence. THE MAHARAJAS OF ALWAR: As a result of their relatively junior status, perhaps, the maharajas of Alwar conducted themselves with great ostentation: their palaces were the most ornate, their pageantry the most spectacular, and their tiger shikars the most elaborately organized. They even affected the title of Saiwai, “ the one – and –a – quarter,” following their grander cousins from Jaipur. It was this innate desire on their part to outshine their fellow princes that made Altar the picturesque place it is today, with its splendid palaces. But since Altar was a poorer state than many others were, the maharajas also made themselves fairly unpopular with their subjects in the process. Altar and its surrounding areas are one of the most interesting and undiscovered parts of Rajasthan. And one of the things that contributes towards making it so are the tales of Maharaja Jai Singh (reigned 1892 – 1937), its brilliant but weird ruler in the early part of this century. CITY PALACE: The city palace (“Vinay Vilas”, as it is officially called) (left) was built in 1793 by Raja Bakhtawar Singh at the foot of a rugged, towering hill and added to over the centuries by his successors. The palace is a marriage of Rajput and Mughal styles – an almost baroque profusion of arches, balconies, pavilions and porticos, with an accent on bangaldar caves; with seem characteristic of northeastern Rajasthan. Once, this palace was part of the Maharajas’ ornate lifestyle and housed, among other things, a drinking cup cut out of a single emerald in its treasury and a mammoth, double storied, four elephant carriage in its stables. Today, however, the palace has been converted into the district’s collectorate, and its halls and chambers have been turned into government offices. CENTRAL COURTYARD: The central courtyard of the palace (below) is impressive, with its graceful marble pavilions set on lotus – flower bases, its inner walls lined with canopied balconies and its dramatic marble checkerboard floor. Once dancing girls performed here by moonlight, but today it is often the venue for rowdy teenagers’ cricket matches. DURBAR HALL: Beyond the marble pavilions lies the splendid, old durbar hall, its walls and ceilings richly covered with gilded arabesques still remarkably fresh. In an antechamber beyond is an exquisite frieze of miniature paintings, sealed under glass and set in gilt, running along the wall. Permission Maharaja, who now lives in Delhi. RANI MOOSI CHHATRI: Behind the Palace lie the old temple tank and the cenotaph of Raja Bakhtawar Singh and Rani Moosi, who performed sati. It is a superb example of early 19th century Rajput architecture, with its graceful brown Karauli sandstone structure and its nine white marble canopies. Its style is completely different from those of other cenotaphs in the rest of Rajasthan. Beneath the dome you can see interesting frescos of scenes from the epics Ramayana and Mahabharata. THE MUSEUM: The palace museum has a wonderful collection of exhibits, reflecting the eclectic tastes – and the personal wealth – of the maharaja of Al war. There are some excellent manuscripts here, including an illustrated Mahabharata, on a 200 foot long scroll, made from a single length of paper, with writing so tiny it must be read with a magnifying glass. Other prize pieces here are illustrated manuscript of Gulistan, Shah Nama, and on Emperor Babur’s life. There are also some fine Ragamala paintings and miniatures from the Al war, Bundi, and Mughal schools. (Don’t miss the miniature of the incarnations of Vishnu). In the armory section you will find several historic swords, including those belonging to Sultan Mohammad Ghori, as well as the Mughal emperors Akbar and Aurangzeb. You will also find a fascinating collection of armor (including a

20 suit of crocodile leather armor) and the usual strange Rajput weapons, such as a nagphas, a carpet –beater shaped weapon ingeniously designed for strangling the enemy. There are various other heirlooms from the maharajas’ collection, from perfumed sandalwood flywhisks to a solid silver dinning table (with trompe-l’ oeil waves shimmering across it for good measure). One thing that is not here, however, is Maharaja Jai Singh favorite car: a gold Lanchester, shaped in the form of the King of England’s coronation carriage, but without the horses! MOTI DOONGRI: Visiting Moti Doongri (“Pearl Hill”) is a bizarre experience. All that now exists is a massive fortified wall, with a flat, empty space at the crest of the hill. Maharaja Jai Singh dynamited the elegant one hundred roomed palaces that stood here out of existence. The reason remains a mystery. Was he looking for buried treasure here, as some people say? Was it in grief at the suicide of his favorite wife? Was it to destroy the tomb of a fakir nearby? Or was it merely his eccentricity? Nobody knows. The fact is that the demolition took two years and cost more than the building of the palace itself. Jai Singh possibly wanted to build another palace here. BALA QILA: Towering on a craggy hill that dominates the town is Bala Qila (“Young Fort”). Built on the foundations of an ancient mud fort constructed in AD 928 by Nikumbh Rajputs, it has had a turbulent history and was successively occupied by the warring Mughals, Pathans and Jats before finally being captured by Raja Pratap Singh in 1775. Bala Qila is accessible only by jeep (with special permission from the Superintendent of Police, for there is a police wireless station located in its citadel today). As you drive up the steep slope you can see the amazing fortifications that run all the way along the hill, often at crazy, seemingly impossible, angles. Passing through a series of massive gates, you finally enter Nikumbh Mahal Palace at the top. Built in the early 19th century, it has graceful bangaldar caves, carved marble columns and delicate latticed balconies opening onto a central courtyard. Inside the baradari (pavilion), there are some beautiful gilded frescos on the walls and ceiling. And outside, beneath the canopies surrounding the courtyard, are traces of other delicately painted panels. From here there is stunning view of the surrounding countryside, and you can also see the miles of ramparts that enclose the fort: a feat of military engineering, sometimes running vertically up the hill, and provided with literally thousands of steps built for the sentries who patrolled its top. You can also see, on a nearby ridge, the palace of the Mughal Prince Saleem, later Emperor Jahangir, who was exiled here for three years for trying to assassinate Abu’l Fazal, one of the celebrated “Nine Gems” of his father Akbar’s Court. Bharatpur was an unusual Kingdom of Rajasthan because it was the only one that was ruled by a dynasty of Jats – peasant sons of the soil – rather than Rajputs. Under its aggressive rulers, the kingdom of Bharatpur became a major military and political force in the 18th and 19th centuries, its armies sweeping the plains of northern India, virtually olds and masters of all they surveyed. However, the history of Bharatpur goes back far, far earlier, to the great ancient kingdom of Matsyadesh that fluorides here around the 5ht century BC. There are several fine archeological remains of this civilization that you can see in the Bharatpur Museum. Keoladeo Ghana in Bharatpur, where thousands of migratory waterfowl arrive every winter, is part of the Indo – genetic plains of India where water birds nest in thousands during the monsoon. Created in the late 19th century by the Maharaja of Bharatpur to bring the pleasure of wildfowl hunting to his doorstep, the reserve came into being by the simple act of diverting water from a nearby irrigation canal. The lowlands holding the monsoon floodwater have been an age less avian paradise, and were where the Maharaja of Bharatpur hosted duck shoots for British luminaries. SIGHT SEEING: Some important sights that should not be missed are: Bala Qila where Emperor Babur spent one night and the majestic City Palace, which houses a museum.

21 In the museum can be found quite a few of Alwar's legendary treasures -- rare manuscripts, paintings, objects made from jade, ivory and silver as well as a large collection of weapons. The beautiful Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatri is a majestic red sand stone and white marble cenotaph built in the memory of a mistress of Maharaja Bakhtawar Singh, a ruler of Alwar. Other interesting monuments are Vinay Vilas Palace, Vijay Mandir Palace and Moti Doongri. A little further on the road to Jaipur is Alwar's most popular picnic spot - Siliserh. Built as a summer resort, it is a delightful pocket, overlooking a tranquil lake and surrounded by hills. You can take off for long treks to the hills (don't forget to take along a comfortable pair of walking shoes), go boating or just sit on the terrace of the palace hotel letting your eyes feast on the beauty of nature unfolding before you, watch the different water birds about the lake. For some peace and serenity, it's the perfect retreat. To the west are the protected forests of Sariska. Once, the hunting grounds of the rulers of Alwar, the Sariska Tiger Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary today bustles with a wide variety of wildlife which includes sambhar, chinkara, wild boars, jackals and tigers. Birds that can be found here are parakeets, grey partridges, crested serpent eagles, bulbuls. The forest area is replete with relics of the past. To the west lies Viratnagar, a city revered in history for having given shelter to the mighty Pandava brothers of the Mahabharata. Explore the forests for temples, and rock formations that have association with the past. An edict of King Ashoka the Great dating back to the 3rd century was found here. In another part of the site are ruins of a circular Buddhist temple, considered to be the oldest freestanding structures in India The palaces and gardens of Deeg are among the most beautiful in this region. Being closer to Agra and Delhi, the Mughal influences are felt here. The palaces: Gopal Bhawan, Nand Bhawan and Karishna Bhawan are ingeniously designed and rich in history. A visit to these palaces will give an idea of the care and meticulous planning that must have gone into their construction. A visit to this region is not complete without a trip to Bharatpur. The history of Bharatpur traces the rise and fall of the Jat power in eastern Rajasthan. This was the region where important Jat ruler like Churaman, Badan Singh and Suraj Mal dominated the entire belt. They fought the invading Marathas, Mughals and the interfering British, a power to reckon with and strong enough to lay down their own terms and conditions. The fort of Bharatpur is the focal point of the town. It took sixty years to build and was known as the Iron Fort. Today, the stark and rugged fort is partly used by the government to run its offices and a large part houses the Government museum. Bharatpur is a small city but what makes it special is the hunting preserve of the princes of Bharatpur, today, it is ranked among the world's best bird sanctuaries. Every year, this park is visited by over 400 species of water birds, which includes exotic migratory birds from Afghanistan, Central Asia, Siberia and Tibet. The greylag and bareheaded geese are among the important visitors but the star of this sanctuary is the rare siberian crane. If you're a bird lover, then this is your paradise, even if you have just a passing interest in birds you cannot fail to be impressed by the mind-boggling variety of birds that flock this park. The stone from Dholpur is famous throughout the country and has been used for the construction of many a fort and palace not only in Rajasthan but in Agra, Delhi and other states as well. You can pick up small mementoes from the markets. Dholpur in itself does not seem to have too many tourist attractions but the areas surrounding Dholpur are important for their historicity. Jhor was the site of the oldest Mughal garden built by Baubur in 1527 and rediscovered in the 1970s, there is the famous Machkund where a

22 religious fair every year sees a gathering after a dip in the holy jund. Other important areas include Bari and Damoh, Van Vihar and Ram Sagar Sanctuary. The other area of international importance is the tiger land of Ranthambor. Ranthambor needs little introduction as it is one of India's conversation success stories. This is the ideal place in Rajasthan to spot the Indian tiger in its natural habitat. Lush green forested hills, lakes inside the National Park, lodges and water holes; Ranthambor is a different world altogether. Don't come to Ranthambhor as a tourist, let the wildlife enthusiast in you take over and just allow yourself to be guided by the jungle atmosphere. If you can pull yourself out of the formidable forest, don't miss the formidable fort of Ranthambhor, which has a popular Ganesh temple. A little further is the unusual Sunheri Kothi of Tonk. It is possible to pick up felt rugs called namdas and leather articles from Tonk.

Dhundhar Circuit Jaipur – Samode – Ramgarh –Dausa – Abhaneri Jaipur, called the Pink City and Rajasthan's colorful capital, brims with sites to treat the eyes along with fun things to do. There are impressive monuments, an excellent range of handicrafts, a wide variety of cuisine, and entertainment that can keep you enthralled for days. In fact, you will find yourself wanting to extend your holiday. It’s a city that will cast its spell on you from day one. We suggest a ticket on the Rajasthan Tourism Guided Bus Tour to take you on a joyride to all the significant tourist destinations. The half-day and full-day tours will enable you to see all significant monuments of the city. You may request the Tourist Reception Center for further details. Besides these guided tours, you also have the option of exploring the city in buses, scooter rickshaws and the humble, but practical, bicycle. These are available outside most hotels and the staff would be more than happy to help organize a mode of conveyance for you. The city of Jaipur is the logical starting point for anyone traveling in Rajasthan because to its central location and good air road and rail connections. To the west lies the desert region of Mercer (Biker, Jaisalmer, and Jodhpur), to the north and south run the craggy Aravalli hills. From jaipur it is an easy drive to Al war and the Sariska Tiger Reserve. In the Northeast, or to Ajmer, Pushkar, and Kishangarh in the southwest. Also within reach is the shekhavati region in the northwest and Ranthambhor National Park in the east. The kingdom of jaipur was originally known as amber, which was also the name of its ancient capital situated 7 miles away. Its history can be traced back to the 12 th century, when Amber was the stronghold of the fierce Mina tribesmen. According to legend, the Minas once gave shelter to a Rajput Prince called Duleh Rai. But the prince later betrayed them by getting them drunk one night, slaying them, and taking over Amber. In the 16th century, Amber suddenly came to the fore when the Mughal emperor, Akbar (reigned 1556 – 1605) married one of its princesses, the first of several shrewd matrimonial alliance between a Mughal ruler and a Rajput Princess. Amber lies about 7 miles north east of Jaipur. The name is derived from the goddess, Amba Mate, the Mother Earth, whom the Miner tribe used to worship at this site before the Kachawaha Rajputs took it over and made it their capital. Amber remained the capital of the kachawahas till 1727, but even after that it was never completely abandoned. When the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb once asked Raja Saiwai Jai Singh II what his capital looked like, it is said that latter cut open a pomegranate – to demonstrate how it lay in a protected valley. All around amber, the hills are ringed with battlements and watchtower, and within the valley lie the including the 13 th century palace (only Bala Bai Ki Sal is somewhat intact). There remains on ornate 17th century water tank nearby, Panna Mina kA Kund, built by a eunuch, and Jagat Shiromani

23 Temple, a fine marriage of north and south Indian architectural styles, with a superbly carved to rana archway Chamwar Walon Ki Haveli (‘mansion of the fly whisk attendants’), which has now been painstakingly restored to its original condition. It is a private home, but worth seeing from the outside at least. By the water of Maota Lake lie the beautifully laid out old garden of Dilaram Bagh and Mohan Bari. A formal garden was an idea largely unknown in traditional Indian palace architecture (although many palaces lay in beautiful natural surroundings) until the Muslim invaders brought in this Persian concept. The garden concept was one of many Mughal ideas that Raja Man Singh I imbibed from his close friend, Emperor Akbar, along with such details as cussed arches, domes and marble filigree – work grilles, all of which he incorporated splendidly at Amber, overlooking Maota Lake is the old Raja Mahal Palace, built from 1600 onward. A steep cobbled path from Dilemma Bagh takes you to Suraj Pol and Jaleb Chowk. Often mistakenly referred to as “Jalebi Chowk”, or “The Candy Square”, it actually means, “The Square where horses and elephants are fortified double gate, incorporating a blind turn and guard rooms on three sides. This was once richly painted with frescos, the fading remains of which you can still see. Nearby is the beautiful temple to Kali, its pillars carved in the form of banana trees in delicate Green marble? Raja Man Singh I in 1580 brought the image of the goddess back for Bengal. The temple’s priests had traditionally been Bengalis but now they are from Bihar. Jai Mandir, used as a hall of private audience, is created in white marble; its floral ceiling is inlaid with intricate mirror – work. The walls are decorated with fine murals of leaf scrolls and flowers. He magnificent entirely covered with intricate inlay – work of mirror and coloured glass. The stain – glass windows here, by the way, were a later 18th century addition, imported from Europe. Just above Jai Mandir is Jas Mandir, with a roof ablaze with spangled mirrors and lovely mosaics. Its entire eastern face is a filigreed marble screen, with a stunning view over Maota Lake and the rugged hills below, specially designed to catch the summer breeze and draw them in to cool the hall. Opposite this complex, across the gardened courtyard, is Sukh Mandir (“temple of contentment”), an empty named pleasure chamber, cooled by a marble water cascade. Do not miss the doors here, which are made of fragrant sandalwood, inlaid with ivory. Beyond this lies the Zenana (palace of the Rains), here, clustered around a large central courtyard, were what used to be the self – contain suites of twelve rains, with chambers for concubines on the upper floor. There is a device for grinding millet in the floor of the favourite Rani’s suite: it apparently served as an exercising device to help keep her figure trim! In the courtyard is a fine boarder (pavilion supported by stately carved pillar sandalwood, inlaid with ivory. SIGHT SEEING: Highlights of the tour will include famous sights such as the magnificent ‘Amer Palace’, the old capital of Jaipur. A fascinating blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture, this red sandstone and white marble palace has some very interesting apartments, the likes of which are not to be found anywhere in the country. Diwan-IAam, Ganesh Pol, Sheesh Mahal, Sukh Niwas, Jai Mandir, Man Singh Palace and Shila Devi temple are some of the places that you should not miss. On your way back from the palace, take a slight detour and visit the old township of Amer that lies at the foothills of the palace. Of interest are the old temples like Jagat Shiromani temple, the Narsingh temple and the Panna Meena Ki Baodi, or step well. The rulers and their wives were laid to rest in the beautiful located Gaitor and Maji ki Chhatri, or the Maharani’s cenotaphs, respectively. In the same vicinity are the hill forts of Jaigarh and Nahargarh that look down on the city. Jaigarh is a rugged fort and has the most amazing water storage system and the largest

24 canon on wheels in the world-the Jai Van. Nahargarh is named after a local deity Nahar Singh and provides some spectacular views of the city below. Nahargarh has nine palaces within its compound with some beautiful woodwork and frescoes. Be prepared to spend a little extra time here, as the fort is the best explored on foot. Do visit at the newly restored Kanak Vrindavan temple complex and the Jal Mahal palace. The old walled city has a history going back to 272 yrs. Explore the wide streets and the uniform shops that line them, the huge havelis where the rich and the important lived. See the artisans at work as they give shape to some of the most exquisite handcrafted items from jewelry to tie and dye fabric. You can make purchases from the Rajasthan Government Emporium. Visit Johari Bazaar, M.I.Road, Tripolia and the various gullies that branch out the main streets for a wide range of handicrafts. When you enter the city, the first major monument that greets you is the spectacular Hawa Mahal, or the Palace of Winds that provides some excellent views of streets from its fifth story. Located just behind it are Jantar Mantar, the unique observatory built by the founder of Jaipur-Sawai Jai Singh and the City Palace with its fabulous museum that displays some of the most amazing treasures held by the Jaipur royal family. A little further away the important temples of Galta, the gardens of Sisodia Rani and Vidyadhar. Jaipur is surrounded by a lot of interesting tourist destinations. Forty kilometers to the north is the popular Samode with its fairytale palace that has some of the most exquisite mirror work and frescoes. To the east is the resort of Ramgarh with its huge artificial lake and cozy cottages where you can spend a quiet weekend. A temple and the ruins of its old fort are areas of interest. Further east is the historical town of Abhaniri. Today in ruins, this deserted township has a seven-century temple of Harshad Mata and a step well known as Chanda Baodi.