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jtnews
n friday, celebrate hanukkah
december 11, 2009
The hands-down favorite Israelis from different North African countries argue about their preferred sfinj techniques Melody AmselArieli Special to JTNews One cold, drizzly Hanuk kah morning, our bus slowly wound its way toward the farthest reaches of Jerusalem. As it emptied out, a couple of elderly women drew together, for both warmth and warm conversat ion. After dwelling on their children and grandch i ld ren, t heir ta l k touched on Ha nu kkah goodies. When I caught the word “sfinj,” my ears perked up. I moved in closer to hear. Sfinj (which rhymes with fringe), are the North African Jews’ answer to Ashkenazi potato latkes and Israeli jelly doughnuts. Like these two treats that commemorate Hanukkah’s miracle, sfinj are fried in oil. Like jelly doughnuts, sfinj are leavened. But here all resemblance ends. Whether coaxed into plump pillows or crowned with rings of decorative holes, sfinj never contain jelly. Moreover, whipped up flour, yeast, a bit of sugar, and a splash of water, sfinj are far less sweet and far lighter than most other traditional Hanukkah treats.
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Although all sfinj are as light as air, sfinj recipes vary widely. “I fr y my sf inj in ex t ra-hot oil,” announced one bus passenger, “to keep them extra light.” “Try making them with soda water instead,” observed her neighbor dryly, “and they’ll be even lighter.” At this, a bevy of women sitting across the way joined the fray. “In Algeria, we made ours with milk,” said one. “We Tunisians add orange juice,” replied another. As each woman revealed her sfinj secrets, feelings ran high. Despite the 11:26:43 AM
cold, t he conversation turned hot and heavy. T he word sf i nj, so strange to Western ears, is evidently Mugrabi, the Judeo-Arabic dialect still spoken among Moroccan Jews. Although its meaning, as well as its culinary origins, has been lost over time, these doughnuts remain popular eating. Who eats sfinj? Anyone blessed to light Hanukkah candles alongside North African family members, friends, or co-workers. Jaqueline Alon, born in Casablanca, Morocco, learned the fine art of pastry making at her mother’s k nee. A lthough she has spent most of her life in Israel, she still devotes long hours creating traditional Moroccan sweets. Her family and friends enjoy an ever-changing assortment of homemade almond macaroons, elaborate piped pastries, nut-covered crescents, honeyed whorls, miniature marzipan morsels, along with anise, cinnamon, and date delights. “In Jewish-Moroccan homes, everything revolves around food,” she told me. “Everything. And sfinj are everyone’s
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n celebrate hanukkah
Lighting up the Festival of Lights
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At Hanukkah, lighting up the tzedakah stairway
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Edmon J. Rodman JTA World News Service LOS ANGELES (JTA) — What lights the Festival of Lights? What really ignites the eight days, turning them into a hot winter glow? Is it the oil, the candles, the songs, the latkes, the gifts? What would you give for an answer? It’s dark and I am walking to Canter’s, a famous Los Angeles delicatessen, to buy a half-dozen bagels. I see by the blue and white cookies in their bakery window that it’s Hanukkah. Near the entrance, seated on a crate, is a guy who appears to be homeless. Is this his home? As I pass he holds out a paper cup and shakes it. Coins jingle. “Any spare change?” he asks. It’s an exchange that happens daily in big cities and small, at the Mobil station, outside the Piggly Wiggly, in the mall parking lot, outside the restaurant. No matter where or how high up you live, it happens. It’s happened to me in Beverly Hills. The question is always same: “Do you have any change?” Yet our responses vary. At Hanukkah time or anytime — on the street, at your door, in the mail or online — there are many ways you can respond to requests for tzedakah. Maimonides, the inf luential 12thcentury Jewish philosopher, wrote that there are “eight degrees of tzedakah, each higher than the next.” That is, eight distinct, clarifying ways you can respond to human need. The degrees are like steps progressively rising; kind of an early stairway to heaven. Proverbs tell us that a “mitzvah is a lamp.” On Hanukkah we can light up the nights with giving. Consider each step of the tzedakah stairway a candle that is lit each night; each light is an act of giving tzedakah, of doing justice in the world. The lowest level is giving like a Grinch, too little and with a cheapster attitude, as when a panhandler is in your face and you feel put out. “Do I look like a sucker?” you wonder. “Isn’t there an agency for this?” you think. So you flip him a dime. The countering Jewish idea in play here is from Devarim (Deuteronomy): “Give to him readily,” it says, “and have no regrets.”
The second step is the sunny side of the first — still giving too little, but with a smile. Like when a condolence card comes around at work and you pull a five out of your wallet when it’s full of 20s. Devarim also tells us when considering the needy, “do not harden your heart and shut your hand.” How much is too little? Hey, this isn’t a seasonal piece on tipping. This is about doing justice. Do you need an accountant to paint you a picture? The third step is giving as much as is needed, but waiting until someone asks. A tough standard, as most of us don’t give until we are approached. The idea here is to cut down on the humiliation for the asker. Today, when institutions do much of the asking, the concept updates to what if Jewish Big Brothers Big Sisters has to ask X number of times in letters or e-mail before we respond? Each letter costs, ultimately diminishing your contribution. The fourth step flips the third: Giving as much as is needed before being asked. Think about it. This puts the giver on the lookout for tzedakah opportunities. It gets you twittering with finds and on the street, taking note of Jewish social service storefronts. People put their entire energies into looking for investments, why not tzedakah? Isn’t breaking the poverty cycle the best investment? The fifth step includes the previous elements and adds one more; giving tzedakah when you don’t know the recipient but the recipient knows you. It’s like having your tzedekah labeled “This gift brought to you by...” This uneven equation allows for corporate boasting about its contributions: Remember those ads that ran after Katrina? Still, it’s tzedakah. Sixth step: The recipient is known to the giver, the giver is unknown to the recipient. Talk about randomness. Imagine leaving a box of groceries at some unknown yet needful person’s doorstep. Food banks illustrate this concept. As a giver, you know the items are going to someone in need, but they never know you. No. 7: Anonymous giving and receiving. Anonymity is a tough sell today; we are trained from birth to put our names on everything. Historically, in the Temple in Jerusalem there was a darkened room,
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friday, december 11, 2009
emily’s corner
The best part of Hanukkah Spending time with family includes making a fun (and easy) strudel
Emily Moore JTNews Columnist What’s the best thing about Hanukkah? In my house growing up it was always the cookies: Sugar cookies rolled out and cut with menorah and stars of David, iced with blue and white powdered-sugar icing, A grand mess and wonderfully fun. But what about some new traditions in Hanukkah treats? Over the years as a chef, I have collected great recipes for easy and absolutely delicious sweets. This year, I’d like to share with you one of my favorites for Hanukkah. It takes an hour
or two, is surprisingly easy and uses fresh fruit, so it’s actually good for you. It is the traditional strudel recipe, you know the one that you stretch and stretch until you can read a newspaper through the dough? I know you’re thinking, “Oy! My grandmother made that, or my great grandmother (or someone’s great grandmother) and I could never do it myself!” Well, I have done it with many completely novice, non-cooking groups and not only is it very fun, it’s actually easy — and you get a beat-your-aggressions-out kneading session besides! The only “unusual” ingredient you may not have on hand is a couple handfuls of bread crumbs; just throw last week’s challah in the food processor and voila! Bread crumbs! You can fill the strudel with any fruit you have around, add nuts, cinnamon, jam, roll it up, cut in half and bake! This is a great project to do with kids because it’s fascinating, uses hands and
bodies and is somewhat messy! Have fun!
Strudel for Hanukkah For the dough: 2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour 1 egg, slightly beaten 1 Tbs. vegetable oil 2/3 cup warm water For the filling: 4 to 5 cups peeled apples, pears, persimmons, grapes 3/4 cup jam 2 tsp. ground cinnamon Sugar to taste 1 cup chopped toasted nuts (optional) 1/2 cup flour For stretching and rolling: An old tablecloth stretched over a dining room or kitchen table (at least 4’x4’) Flour to sprinkle on the cloth (about 1/2 cup) 1 cup bread crumbs, dry or fresh 3/4 cup oil, melted butter or margarine
1 egg, beaten, to brush on top Sugar to sprinkle on top (about 1/2 cup) First, make the dough. Sift the flour into a medium-sized mixing bowl, or put the sifted flour into the bowl of an electric mixer. Add the egg, oil and warm water and mix together until the dough holds together. If it’s sticky, add more flour, a tablespoon at a time. Now the fun workout part begins! Take the dough out of the bowl and throw it hard down on the counter or table. If it sticks, put a little flour down. Repeat this about 300 times. That’s right! You get a great workout with your kids, the neighbor kids and friends while you knead the dough by throwing it hard (you should hear it sap/thump each time) down onto the counter. (This is a great family or family/friends event — doing it yourself, especially the stretching, is almost not possible and half as much fun.) When the throwing/kneading is done, put the dough back into the bowl, cover it with a towel and let it rest for 1/2 hour to an hour while you make the filling. Peel and core the hard fruits (persimmon, too) and mix with the remaining ingredients except the jam. Let sit while you stretch the dough. On the tablecloth that covers your table, roll the
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