1992 Hi Tec

HI TEC BADWATER 146: 1992 “A FOOT SPANKING 300,000 PACES TO THE TOP OF MT. WHITNEY“ Last year I had the honor of participating in this event and the satisfaction of finishing 11th out of 14 starters and finishers; I was 6th of 7 who went to the top of Mt. Whitney. This year I was 7th of 14 starters and 13 finishers and I was 4th of 5 who completed the course. The race starts at Badwater, Death Valley, at 282 ft. below sea level and goes on paved roads 135 miles to Whitney Portals. That's about 5 marathons end to end. About 70 of these miles are flat, 20 down hill (5,000 ft. of descent) and 45 up hill (13,600 ft. of ascent). The hiking portion of the event starts at the Portals (8,300 ft.) and climbs to the top at 14,496 ft. in 11 more miles making the total of 146 miles from the lowest to the highest points in the contiguous United States. Then, there is the descent of 11 miles back to the Portals. The trail portion, therefore, is 22 miles long, which I refer as marathon #6 for the event, making a total of 157 miles and adding 6,200 ft. of ascent and descent. It should probably be called the Hi Tec Badwater 135 or 157 instead of the 146! What goes up must come down! To get into this race one has to be invited. I wasn't sure if completing the event one year qualifies for being invited the next year. I kept training, doing about a marathon a month. I did a few ultras as well as a cross country ski marathon at Mammoth Mountain, California, and the first ever roller blade marathon which was held last fall in Orange County, also in California. I did an endurance bike ride from Death Valley to Whitney Portals for the 8th year in a row and the "Death Ride" in Markleeville, Alpine County, California, for the 4th year in a row. I had received a phone acceptance from Dave Pompel, Race Director, and several months earlier. In the meantime I heard he had left Hi Tec and went to Reebok. Chris Stai was now the Race Director, so I sent him a letter to see if I was going to receive an invitation for 1992. In the meantime, my wife, Denise, and I decided to go to Tanzania, in East Africa, to train for this race. This is the reverse of what other runners do; the East Africans seem to want to come to New Mexico and Colorado to improve their performances and do altitude training. I wanted to participate in the Inaugural Kilimanjaro Marathon which was scheduled to take place on 06 28 92. I went two weeks before that date to climb Kilimanjaro. This mountain is about 100 miles south of the equator where it is hot all year round. The climb via the Marangu Route starts at the National Park Headquarters at Marangu Gate at 6,000 ft. The first day climbs five miles to the 9,000 ft. level to Mandara Hut and goes through the rain forest. The second day climbs ten miles to the 12,300 ft. level to Horombo Hut and ascends through the heather lands and moor lands. The third day climbs another ten miles to 15,520 ft. to Kibo Hut coursing the lunar/alpine landscape. This is where the altitude begins to hit. I live in Lone Pine, California, at 3,700 ft. and two weeks before the trip I went 13 miles westward to Whitney Portals and slept over night at the 8,000 ft. level. I think that this really paid off on Kilimanjaro and later on Mt. Whitney. I did take Diamox 250 mg. about four times a day while above 12,000 ft. I never had a headache or nausea during the whole time on Kilimanjaro, as well as on Mt. Whitney. I did develop a slight cough on the descent, which went away after getting below 13,000 ft. The secret on the final ascent was to follow the guide who does this about every week and go "pole, pole", which,

in Swahili, means "slowly, slowly". Lift one foot up about three inches and slide it forward about one foot. While doing this, take a breath in through the nostrils while taking one step and then exhale through the nostrils while taking the next step. Do this continuously ascending 10 ft. per minute climbing 600 ft. per hour and finally 3,000 ft. in six hours. This brought me to the rim of the Crater of Kilimanjaro (Kibo) at Gilman's Point (18,600 ft.) by sun up at around 0700 on the fourth day. I used this technique of coordinating breathing through the nostrils and taking short steps on the 13 miles going up the Portal Road from Lone Pine to Whitney Portals and then finally on the 11 mile trail from the Portals to the top of Mt. Whitney. I only had three weeks between getting back home to heat train before starting at Badwater. When I got back to the States, my invitation letter was waiting for me. On 07 04 92 I went to Badwater with Tom Crawford and Richard Benyo. They had previously done the "Death Valley 300" which is the out and back from Fire to Ice and back to Fire. That is the Badwater to Whitney and then back to Badwater. They, and Rhonda Provost, of the Northern California Ultrarunners Society, felt it appropriate to make me the Mayor of Badwater. I have lived in Inyo County for the last 29 years and have had a medical practice in Lone Pine and Death Valley during this time. I have covered the course by car many times. I have taken care of many residents and tourists in the area and have encountered most of the problems that can occur. There is heat exhaustion and heat stroke as well as flash floods and sand storms in Death Valley. Sidewinders, coyotes, ravens, scorpions and tarantulas are on a constant search for the unaware. Traffic accidents and break downs are common on the course. In fact, just today I got a call from the Inyo County Coroner's office to do an autopsy on a 72 year old man who died of massive head injuries in a dune buggy accident on a road 2.7 miles from the race course! At the other end are problems of hypothermia, sudden blizzards, and torrential rains, lightening strikes, rock slides and avalanches. They felt I was the best qualified for the job. There was no other competition, so it was cinched from the beginning. The National Geographic Explorer film crew met us there at noon on the 4th of July for a touching ceremony in the 130 degree heat and in a 40 mile per hour south wind. It was too hot for the assassins who were reported to be arriving. After a five page ceremony performed by Tom, Richard and Rhonda, I read a two page acceptance speech. I promised to give equal rights to all beings trying to survive in this territory, whether it is man, animal, bird or insect. I was "pro choice" giving equal opportunities to any of these creatures wanting to perform some daring task in these conditions. After I was installed as the Mayor of Badwater and my wife, Denise, being recognized as the First Lady of Badwater, we went on a 10 to 15 mile heat run/slog/walk toward Furnace Creek Ranch. Over the next two and a half weeks I did daily 10 mile track work outs at 15 minutes per mile in temperatures of 90 110 degrees. While doing this I tried to take in 2 liters of fluid per hour and about 500 600 calories per hour, which just about makes up for what has been lost as it is being lost. This is important during the trek from Badwater. Following body weight and, at times, rectal temperatures are important, but sometimes a nuisance. The main fluids I used were Ultra Fuel, club soda, lemon lime soda, Classic Coke and water on the rocks in an insulated Camelback pouch with a tube with a nipple like end; I refer to it as my pacifier. The main solids were fig newtons, pretzels, gum drops and at times a turkey and cheese sandwich on dark bread. On 07 19 92, I

went to Stovepipe Wells Village at sea level in Death Valley. This is at the 41 mile mark of the course and was where Richard Benyo was getting a farewell party before attempting the "Death Valley 300" which was to start at Badwater at 0700 on 07 20 92. There was a crew meeting and the strategy of the event was covered in the 120 degree heat of the day. We had a great pasta feed. The film crew was also present and interviewed Marshall Ulrich and me prior to our event which was to start on 07 22 92 at 1800. In the next two days I got my gear together. My cobbler, Rod Ayers, rigged me with some cleats to wear on my shoes to insulate my feet from the hot pavement and sand and also to protect my Morton's neuroma. Bev Kritz, of La Florista, supplied some fake palm trees to be part of my traveling oasis. Dwight Van de Walker, my mortician and funeral director, arranged for me to purchase a casket (body removal tank) which I kept 3/4 filled with water for cooling off during the run. I picked up 20 cases of Crystal Geyser Alpine Spring Water donated by the C.G. Roxanne Bottling Company in Olancha, California, to be distributed to the participants. I also arranged for "Special Event" signs to be stationed on the highway by Caltrans, notifying traffic that runners would be on the road. Then I got the U Haul truck from Don's Texaco. This would hold all of my paraphernalia during the next week. On 07 22 92, race day morning, my crew and pacers had assembled. Denise, my wife, of course, was already present. Her daughter, Angie Nealy, and her friend, Bruce Pottenger, arrived from Bishop, California. Race walker, Dave Thorpe, and his friend, Charlie Stalnaker, from Newport Beach, California, drove up in a Mercedes. There was a final inspection of the U Haul truck and we were off for Death Valley. On the way we came upon Richard Benyo along Owen's Lake at about the 110 mile mark on his way to Whitney. An inquiry was made regarding the loss of brain cells and we wished him a successful journey. Others were there to have him autograph his book "Death Valley 300". I also brought along copies of his book and sold 11 of them on the course. There were refreshments served at a meeting place at Furnace Creek Ranch from 1400 to 1500. The runners and crews and pacers began to assemble. We got our race packets with bibs, Hi Tec hat, water bottle and the Hi Tec shirt for 1992. Extras were available and more could be ordered. We will also be able to get Hi Tec products at the employee discount! Everyone was introduced. This year there were six repeaters from 1991 and three from 1990! In the future, it may be hard to get into this event since Hi Tec wants to keep the number of entrants relatively low. Then we drove 17 miles south to Badwater. Our group picture was taken. We then toed the line; however, I used the chair reserved for the Mayor. Eventually, I rose from the chair, adjusted my safari hat, shook the wrinkles out of my Cool Max pajamas, and issued "high fives" to the well wishers and then strided out at my 15 minute per mile pace. I literally walked the whole way but did trot once for a few hundred yards for the Geographic film crew while going down the west side of Towne's Pass. I also "sprinted" the last few yards when I arrived at the Portals. Marshall Ulrich started out doing 8 minute miles and at about 80 miles almost caught the bicyclist from Minnesota who was pedaling the course for the second year in a row. Jack Christian, from Oklahoma, was sick before the start and dropped out after 17 miles; he finished in '90 and '91. Steve Kerr, from the United Kingdom, became sick at

17 miles, but he and returnee, Jack Denness, also from U.K., re entered the race and finished before the 60 hour cut off at the Portals. Steve paced and crewed for Jack the year before. Harry Deupree, from Oklahoma, who never gets blisters, did get blisters early and managed to walk the rest of the way with his pacer, Jim Hargroves; Jim took pictures for the first few miles and then did 99% of the race on foot with Harry! (He deserves a finisher's buckle; however, he wasn't an official entrant). I had the pleasure of traveling from Stovepipe Wells at 41 miles up hill 5,000 ft. to the top of Towne's Pass with Bob Givens, one of the three Texans. He wanted to trade crews with me, since, at that time; I had my wife and her daughter with me. He liked the way they sprayed him down! On the second day at 1500 I was on the east side of Panamint Valley at the 2,000 ft. sign and got bussed to a reserved room at Panamint Springs Resort. I was there for 4 hours and had a solid sleep for 2 1/2 hours. I avoided the hottest part of the day and a lot of glare while trekking westward by taking this time out; same as last year. Robin Smit, ophthalmologist from Fresno, California, slept for several hours at a time in his RV; he was planning to do the out and back! We exchanged positions a few times. John Shehadey, also from Fresno, and Keith Pippin, from Arizona, made rest stops at Panamint Springs Resort. Keith had paced Marshall Ulrich the previous two years and knew the course well and had a good strategy. The night got surprisingly cold between Padre Crowley Point (80 miles) and the 138 190 Highway Junction (104 Miles) requiring extra clothing. I wore my reflective vest at night and had a red strobe light flashing on my hat. The crew could spot me from a mile away! Along Owen's Lake I could see that I was gaining on two runners/walkers. After about 15 miles I came upon Randy Spears, another Texan, and Jürgen Ankenbrand, a German now living in Southern California. He participated in the 1990 event and this is when I first met him as I was an interested observer that year. We have been in quite a few events together and have become good friends. I influenced him to do the Mt. Everest Marathon and now he wants to do Kilimanjaro. Further along, I met Richard Benyo, who was returning from Mt. Whitney and was at about the 182 mile mark of the 300 mile course (he eventually finished in 157:50 breaking his old record of 170:58); I was at 110 miles. We again commented on brain cell deterioration and had a dialogue for the Explorer film crew. Next, I did Immersion II for them. My crew prepared my casket under the palm trees in the U Haul truck. I did an immersion getting my Cool Max suit completely drenched. I remarked that if I couldn't make it out, just keep me in the body removal container and get me to the nearest crematorium. Then, have my ashes spread out along the course from Badwater to Mt. Whitney, perhaps in next year's race. Within one more mile I was barely damp and in another 1/2 mile I was completely dry again! I got to Lone Pine (122 miles) and the Chamber of Commerce had arranged a reception for me at the main intersection. I quickly finished my hamburger and milk shake and attached some colorful balloons to my safari hat. I then ran the gauntlet! What a thrill to have that support! It gave me a real boost. I then headed up the Portal Road using my Kilimanjaro technique for 13 miles. I asked the crew and pacers at this time to finally be quiet because I felt I was reaching the irritable stage that ultra runners talk about. For a while, I thought I could catch Keith Pippin, but I didn't. I did extend my lead on Randy and Jürgen. By this time, Marshall Ulrich, who was doing the course for the third time, set a course record to the Portals by 16 minutes. He and his pacers, Pete Munding and Willette Senter, were delivering pizza to me when I was near the end. Mike Sandlin, the third Texan, was the third finisher at the Portals, Bob Givens was fourth, Keith Pippin was fifth and Robin Smit was sixth. The film crew was at the finish tape as were my gang and other curious observers. I was a little more than an hour slower this year in 51:04, but my finish position was better. It wasn't quite as hot this year. The tail wind was greater, however, for the

first 40 miles and I think that that is when some of the others got into trouble with dehydration and blisters, thereby slowing them up. After doing some battle damage assessment, I crashed for 7 1/2 hours. Then we all went to PJ's for a huge, high cholesterol (especially LDL cholesterol) breakfast. A movie company was in town filming "Joshua Tree". I felt a little guilty about what I was eating, as Dolph Lundgren was at a nearby table eating oatmeal and bananas and drinking apple juice. We had a squad meeting at the Dow Villa lobby and got each others addresses and autographs and took pictures. There were a lot of memories shared from the previous 2 3 days. I then prepared to do the Mt. Whitney climb, even though my feet felt as if they had been spanked continuously for 135 miles. The night before, I had to crawl from the bedroom to the bathroom! We hit the trail at 1015. Joe Franiak, from Canoga Park, California, who was second to the Portals, had already been up and down the mountain being the first to the top this year. He was sort of the mystery man, because no one seemed to know him and hardly anyone saw him other than at the start. There were two optional trails he used, but the others used the highway for the first 135 miles. Maybe one doesn't get too much recognition by being too fast! Robin Smit headed up the mountain earlier and I saw him on the trail at Trail Crest as he was heading back to Badwater. He was second to the top this year. He eventually made it back to Badwater in 124:20:30 and became the third person to complete the out and back course; he beat the best time posted by Tom Crawford of 126:34. Marshall Ulrich was third to the top, I was fourth and Steve Kerr was fifth. The other eight finishers to Portals didn't do the hike/climb. I felt good about my performance last year as I became the 36th person to complete the course. I am also the next oldest at age 58 and now at age 59 to complete the course; Richard Kegley did it in 113:09 at age 68 on a solo attempt. I am 6'5", weigh 190#, work full time and train about an hour each day. I think that I get by fairly well, or may just be lucky, with that foundation. This year my feet did suffer! It was as if they got spanked for the 300,000 paces steps I took from Badwater to the top. Next year I might try moon boots filled with some of those left over Dow Corning breast implants! HI TEC BADWATER 146: START AT 1800 ON 07 22 92 IN DEATH VALLEY AT 282 FT ELEVATION ENDING AT WHITNEY PORTALS AT 8,300 FT ELEVATION FOR THE RACE VERSION AND AT THE TOP OF MT WHITNEY AT 14,497 FT FOR THE CLIMB VERSION: Time to Portals Time to Whitney 01 Marshall Ulrich 26:18 * 69:50 (3rd) 02 Joe Franiak 29:25 39:46 (1st) 03 Mike Sandlin 41:43 04 Bob Givens 46:19 05 Keith Pippin 48:52

06 Robin Smit 49:24 68:21 (2nd) 07 Ben Jones 51:04 72:08 (4th) 08 Randy Spears 52:00 Jürgen Ankenbrand 52:00 10 John Shehadey 57:58 11 Jack Denness 58:19 Steve Kerr 58:19 72:30 (5th) 13 Harry Deupree 59:19 * New course record (old record 26:34 by Marshall Ulrich) Ben and Denise Jones