1933-asimon

MADEIRA WINE, C.4RES AND SAUCE

CONSTABLE'S W I N E LIBRARY Edited by Andre' L. Simon

A large number of books on wine have been published since the war; but not for several decades have been put on the market practical handbooks to the knowledge and use of individual wines, written by acknowledged experts yet non-technical in character. Conrtabb's Wine Li6rary aims at providing the contemporary wine-lover with exactly the facts about his favourite wines which will help him personally to appreciate and enjoy them and guide him in offering them to his friends. I n addition to Madeira : Wine, Cakes and Sauce, the following volumes will be published :

SHERRY by H. WARNERALLEN CHAMPAGNE by ANDREL. SIMON CLARET AND THE WHITE WINES OF BORDEAUX by MAWRICE HEALY, K.C. HOCKS AND MOSELLES by H. R. RWDD PORT by A N D RL. ~ SIM~N

CONSTABLE'S WINE LIBRARY Edited by Andd L. Simon

MADEIRA WINE

. CAKES

. SAUCE

sv ANDRE L. SIMON and

ELIZABETH CRAIG

CONSTABLE & C O L T D L O N D O N

PUBLISHED BY

Consfableand Company Ltd. LONDON

Oxjoud Unioeudly Puesi BOMBAY CALCUTTA MADRAS

The Macmillan Company o j Canada, Limited TORONTO

First Pubtished 1933

Fmtcd zn Grcat Brslawt hy W y n n & Sons Lid., London Readme and Faanham

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CONTENTS MADEIRA AND MALMSET WINE by A N D R ~L. SIMON I. 11. 111. IV. V.

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ZARCO - WILLIAM BOLTON " RAINWATER" HABISHAM VICTORIAN MADEIRAS - THE MADEIRA WINES O F TO-DAY

PAOE

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MADEIRA AND MALMSEY FOR SAUCE AND PARTY by ELIZABETH CRAIG I. EARLY MORNING MALMSEY 11. HOW T O GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY 111. MADEIRA I N THE KITCHEN : Sauces Soups - Egg Dishes - Fish - "Meat and Madeira" - Game and Poultry Sweets The Dessert Course Miscellaneous W

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M A D E I R A AND M A L M S E Y WINE Some people drink water and some drink alcohol. They know no better. But there are others. T h e e are those who drink wine, and who drink wine intelligently ; they know good wine from bad, and t h y know also that wine does them good, thal it helps them remember friends and forgive enemies. To all who drink wine with appreciation, discrimination and imagination, Madeira and Malmsey should appeal most dejinitely, not only because of the romance and historical interest of their past, but because o f the remarkable excellence and ualue o f the wines now to be secured in Madeira. Madeira is a long-lived wine, but one also requiring much time to reach perfection. During many years past, jickle ,fashion has practically turned its back upon Madeira and Malmsey, and during all those years stocks have been carej5ully built up, wines have been slowly maturing and growing in power and in grace. Connoisseurs are more and more taking notice of Madeira wines, and their lead is bringing back to Madeira and Malmsey the large measure o f public interest which those excellent wines so well deserve.

a mess the world's in ! " It ever was in a mess." " Not in the good old days." " Thev were far worse." '' Nonsense ! " " Listen ! " " Go ahead." " When bloody Richard was King of England. some five hundred odd years ago. ~ h a r l e sthe Mad was King of ~ r a n c e ,~ovhd the Bastard King of Portugal, Mohammed King of Granada, the Emperor Wenceslas had been deposed by the Pope of Rome and the Pope of Rome deposed by the Pope at Avignon. There was naught else but civil wars, heresies, murders, persecutions, famine and pestilence. So much for your good old days." " Now do you know ? " " I have been looking up all sorts of records and histories of the period in search of information about Zarco." Who was Zarco ? " " Never heard of him. " He was a gallant fellow, and he deserves to be better known." " WHAT "

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"Now's your chance. Tell me about Zarco." " Zarco was not his name." " A bad beginning ! " " Please, do not interrupt. Zarco was not his family name, but a nickname given him later in life. His name was John. His father's name was Gonsalves. He was born, in 1393, at Matosinhos, a barren, wind-swept spot of the Portuguese coast, a little way north of Oporto. John's father was probably murdered, unless he died of the plague, a t an early age ; or else he may have had so many children that he didn't know what to do. He left John alone, anyway. So John ran away, when he was about eighteen. He did not run away with any black-eyed village wench, but with Constansa, the daughter of Rodrigues de S2, the Lord of Matosinhos. Whether this nobleman had many daughters or was merely a positivist, history does not say. Anyhow, he does not appear to have taken any active steps to recover his daughter or chastise her lover. "John and Constansa lived in Lisbon for a couple of years. How they managed to pay their way will never be known. But they were married. John boldly went up to the King, the father of his people, told him how he felt about Constan~aand Constansa about him. King John understood the affairs of the heart, and he:fixed up everything to everybody's satisfaction. He did more. He

evidently took a fancy to young John Gonsalves, and he attached him to the person of his third son, Prince Henry. " In 1415, Constanp returned to Matosinhos, whilst John sailed with Prince Henry to the Coast of Barbary and to capture Ceuta from the Moors. Then he sailed farther south, as far as the Cape Verde Islands, under some of the most famous Portuguese sailors of the day. Home in 1416, he was off again, in 1417, with Prince Henry, to the relief of Ceuta, which the Moors were attacking by land and from the sea. The Moorish fleet was soon put to flight when Prince Henry's flagship appeared on the scene with cannons belching fire from her main deck. Such a thing had never been seen before. I t was that dare-devil, John Gonqalves, who had put the idea in the Prince's head and had seen to the fixing of the cannons. That was a year before gunpowder was first made in England, at a time when a cannon was a new and aweinspiring weapon. " I n 1418, leaving the main Portuguese fleet to hug the coast of Africa, John Gonplves followed the sun and discovered the island which he named Porto Sancto. H e returned to Lisbon with the news, and learnt that both the Spaniards and the French also claimed to have discovered the same island. H e immediately offered to go back and settle there if the king would give him

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a few ships and some provisions, promising to defend the new Portuguese island against all corners. Young as he was, he must have been very plausible. He had his way, anyhow. I n June, '419, he sailed for Porto Sancto and landed there soon after. But Porto Sancto was a poor prize. Nobody was likely to bother about it. So John Gon~alvesdecided to sail farther south and find out whether there was any land behind the clouds so constantly hanging over the sea in that direction. " He sailed from Porto Sancto early in the month of August, 1419, and a few days later he came in sight of the island of Madeira, landing for the first time in the bay called by him Camara de Lobos. Back to Lisbon sailed John Gonsalves Zarco, or Q Zarco, the name by which his friends, first, and then everybody in Portugal came to know him. He brought with him specimens of the rocks and soil from the newly-discovered island's shores, and explained that he had not had time to go any distance inland, as the whole island was covered with wellnigh impenetrable forests. So it was decided that the new island would be known as the island of Madeira, that is to say, the wooded island. Zarco was given by King John the title of Captain of Madeira, with full powers to rule the island as best he thought. At the same time, a gentleman of Prince Henry's establishment, one Palestrello, was given the captaincy of Porto Sancto.

" In May, 1420, John Gonsalves Zarco sailed from Lisbon for Madeira with a numerous retinue, his wife, Gonstansa, and her sons and daughters ; according to an old Portuguese chronicler Constansa was ' Pessoa tao catholica, como virtuosa,' meaning that she had many children because she was such a catholic person, and that she was as virtuous as she was catholic. " Zarco chose the bay of Funchal as more suitable for his head-quarters than Camara de Lobos ; it is both more spacious and more central ; it was obviously the best spot he could have chosen. But what was not nearly so obvious, was the young Governor of Madeira's first decision, soon after landing. He ordered that the island should be fired. Another-in fact, any other Governor except Zarco-would have had the dense forest cleared acre by acre, shipping home the best of the timber of the island. Not Zarco. He took the long view. I t took seven years, they say, for the fire to burn itself out, but by that time snakes and mosquitoes had ceased to exist, and the enormous quantities of ash potash which was added to the decomposed leaf mould of many centuries' accumulation, rendered the soil of Madeira the most fertile in the world. "John Gonsalves, who had been given the name of Zarco, took the title of ' d a Camara' when raised to the peerage of Portugal, and it is this title, which became the

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family name of his numerous descendants. He had three sons and four daughters : John Gonsalves da Camara, who died without issue ; Ruy Gon~alvesda Camara, who married a Bettencourt ; Garcia Rodrigues da Camara, who married a de Freitas ; Beatriz Gonsalves da Camara, who married a Cabral, Lord of Belmonte ; Izabel Gonsalves da Canara, who married Diogo Affonso o Velho ; Catharina Gonsalves da Camara, who married Garcia Homem de Sousa ; Contansa Rodrigues da Camara, who did not marry. When Zarco died, after over forty years spent in Madeira, the island was covered with fields of sugar-cane and vineyards, as well as all sorts of fruit trees and a number of churches. He had discovered a dank forest full of creeping bugs and buzzing insects, but not a living soul. He left a thriving community basking in the sunshine, free from the fear of pests, plague and famine. He was a gallant fellow." "

WILLIAM BOLTON the First, was born about 1500 and died on the 14th Octoberi 1553. I n 1551, he had livery of the Manor of Little Bolton, in Lancashire, a property held by his ancestors for many generations. He had six sons ; the third was named Peter. PETER BOLTON was born a t Little Bolton, Lancashire, in or about the year 1535. H e moved to Warwick, where he died, in 1589. He had two sons ; the elder, William, was born at Warwick about 1555 ; he was a communicant of St. Mary's, Warwick, in 1586. H e purchased the manor of Ullenhall, Warwick, in 1589. He had three sons and three daughters. His second son, Ambrose, who was born about 1590, lived in Birmingham, and died there in 1648. Ambrose Bolton had three sons and one daughter. His eldest son, William, was born about 1625, a t Birmingham. H e was a communicant of St. Martin's, Birmingham. He died in 1702. H e had five sons, the eldest being WILLIAM WILLIAM BOLTON,

BOLTON.*

* I am indebted for William Bolton's pedigree to Mr. Charles Knowlea Bolton, of Boston, U.S.A., a direct descendant of William Bolton, ot Little Bolton, Lancashire. A. L. S.

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WILLLAM BOLTON, the son of Ambrose Bolton, of Birmingham, was baptized at St. Martin's, Birmingham, on the 17th February, 1649. He came to London, and was domiciled in the Parish of St. Leonard, Shoreditch, in 1674, when he was married, at the Charter House Chapel, to Margaret Barret, of St. Stephen's Parish, Coleman Street, on the 10th February, 1675. At the time of William Bolton's marriage. life was none too pleasant in London: Charles I1 and his Parliament were at loggerheads, Popish plots and counter-plots were rife, and the City taverns were deserted for fear of informers and eavesdroppers. The unsettled conditions at home induced many citizens to seek peace and freedom on the other side of the Atlantic, on the recentlyacquired mainland of America. Thus, in 1676, a number of well-to-do merchants sailed from London for the Plantations and settled in Carolina. Young Bolton and his wife did not accompany them farther than Madeira, where they landed, intending to trade with both the friends they had left in London and those who were going to develop the resources of the New World. Some twenty-five years earlier, in Cromwell's time, Prince Rupert, reckoning on the sympathies of the Portuguese for the Royalist cause, had sought refuge in the Tagus with the twenty-five ships of the ill-fated Charles's Navy, which he commanded. This led to a

WZLLIAM BOLTON

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war between Cromwell and Portugal, the issue of which was a foregone conclusion. I t was the occasion of the Treaty of 1654, when Portugal had no choice but grant to English merchants who might elect to trade with and settle in Portugal and Madeira exceptional privileges. A few years later, in 1663, an Ordinance of Charles I1 prohibited the export of any goods and commodities of the growth or manufacture of Europe to the " Lands, Islands, Plantations, Colonies, Territories or Places to His Majesty belonging, in Asia, Africa or America," otherwise than from an English port and in English ships, But the wines of Madeira were allowed to be shipped direct from the island, in English ships, to any of the King's Dominions. This amounted practically to giving Madeira and the Azores a monopoly of the supply of wine for the West Indies and the mainland of America. Such a privilege, together with the very favourable terms of the Treaty of 1654, tempted quite a number of English merchants, William Bolton among them, to settle in Madeira. During close upon forty years, William Bolton imported all sorts of goods into Madeira : wheat, chiefly from Devonshire and Cornwall, at first, and until the West Country farmers lost the market owing to cheaper supplies from Pennsylvania and other parts of North America ; also meat, butter and cheese, mostly from Ireland ; fish from B

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Newfoundland ; whale-oil and timber from New York and Boston ; rice and maize from Carolina and Virginia ; sugar from the West Indies ; whilst, from London, he imported woollens, silk and cotton fabrics, furniture, and all kinds of household utensils and other manufactured articles. The list of the goods William Bolton imported is a very long one, but, on the export side, there is mostly wine, some sugar and a little brandy. The sugar-cane, for many years the staple commodity of the island, was replaced to a very large extent by the vine, as there was an ever-growing demand for the wines or Madeira in America. Bolton occasionally shipped wine from Madeira to England and also to Ireland, but his principal trade was with the West Indies and the mainland of America. He also sold considerable quantities of vvine to all the ships calling at Funchal, on their way from or to England, more particularly to those bound for South America, the Cape and places beyond the Cape, such as Madagascar, Java and India. The Royal Navy also called frequently at Madeira for wine. It was of the utmost importance for all ships to be able to obtain reliable wine, at Madeira, for the use of crew and passengers alike, at a time when there was no cold storage, no quick transit, no fresh vegetables nor fruit available on board ship ; wine was not a luxury, but one of the indispensable necessities for all seafaring folks,

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who wished to keep off scurvy and other ills of the same nature. By 1691, William Bolton was Consul, as well as banker, merchant and shipowner. He had shares in a number of ships trading between England and America by way of Madeira, and he had agents and correspondents in all the more important ports. In M'illiam Bolton's time the wines made in Madeira were mostly red, ordinary beverage wines, made in September, racked in the following December, and shipped from Christmas until supplies were exhausted, usually twelve to eighteen months from the date of vintage. Most of the wine was actually consumed before it was fully a year old. There was also a smaller quantity of white wine made, mostly for consumption in the island itself. They aIso made a small quantity of very dark red wine, sometimes called " black," or else Tinto or Tent ; this wine was made from a special grape known as the aegra Molle, and appears to have been used chiefly to blend with ordinary red wines lacking colour. Besides the bulk of plain beverage wines, Madeira produced a limited quantity of Malvasias or Malmsey, the wine made from the Malvazia grape originally imported in the time of Zarco, from Candia. But William Bolton complained, in 1699, as his successors in Madeira complaio still, that there was

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not enough of it to meet the demand. There never will be enough of it. EXTRACTS FROM SOME OF WILLIAMEOLTON'S LETTERS TO ROBERT HEYSHAM 15 December, 1695,-" The last Vintage in quantity was not great and it is thought rhat a great part of the wines will be ordinary because of unseasonable weather. Here is not above Two Thousand Pipes of old wines in the Island, several ships having laden wines this year for Brazil more than usual. " I found in Port a Portuguese loading 600 Pipes for Brazil, a Bristol ship with upwards 300 Pipes for Barbadoes and the Leeward Islands or Jamaica and a ship of New York, bound home with about loo Pipes ; a small vessel from Jamaica hath carried to that island upwards of roo Pipes, where they had no wines left." 30 September, 1696.-" Here are in Port two ships bound for New York with about 250 Pipes, and a Brigantine belonging to Boston, with about go Pipes bound home. . . . We have lately had great rains, and our vintage not above half made. which cannot be otherwise tKan very good, but the ofher half, which is to be made, in which are the greater part of the Malvazias, are afraid will be but very ordinary. We note what you write of sending a vessel for Malvasias and Succatt. We have had a dormant order by us from Messrs. Halls to buy all we could for their account. We are of opinion it would be a great deal better for you and them to send a vessel jointly to Ioad some Malvasias. . . We are mightily straightened for wine." 18 October, 1697.-"Your brother writes via New York, under the 20th June, that Captain Jacobs was again unfortunateIy taken by a Snow, the 15th. ditto, near Barbadoes ; the news thereof was brought them

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WILLIAM BOLTON by a sloop then in company, who made his escape. We are sorry for his misfortune, because the wines were particularly good. As your brother writes, those were good wines that we loaded last year per ditto Jacobs, whereas abundance of wines have turned to vinegar, especially those of our friend Miles' shipping. . . . The vintage is over in this Island, which is very small and less than ever was known in any one year. The weather has been very good for making the wine, so that altho' it may be little, it may not be bad, which is a great satisfaction to us." 4 September, 1698.-" WC are daily more sensible of the smallness of our vintage ; it does not exceed above one half of the last, and that not half so big as has been of some years. . . Please to note that the SAMUEL G3 ELIZABETH, Captain JOHN ROACH, put in here and loaded 40 Pipes for Antigua ; the CHARLES. Briwntine. C a ~ t a i nWILLIAM SARE. 40 Pipes for B&ha~oes; T ~ ~ ' L O Y A LCODDRING: TON, a Brigantine, 40 Pipes for Antigua ; the BECKFORD, Galley, Captain JOHN HARRIS, about 10 Pipes of Wine and Brandy for the Coast of Guinea. All these came from London. . . . A small vessel from New York, with pipe staves, to return, will load about 60 Pipes of wine. . . . The 1st. Current put in here a Scotch ship of 50 Guns and 300 Men ; a Pink Tender in her company. They came out of Edinburgh in company of four more of the same Force. They say they are bound to the Coast of Guinea, but 'tis our opinion 'tis for the East Indies." 8 August, 1699,-" I am to inform you that it hath pleased God to afflict me with a severe distemper for three weeks past, being an Impostnme upon the right side of my head and face, for which I have been nine times blouded, twice cupped and three times lanced. My condition was as dangerous as can be supposed, but now, through God's Mercy, I am very much better than I was, and I hope, with His assistance, in the way of recovery."

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16 MADEIRA AND MALMSEY WINE 17 September, 1699.-" We are now in the middle of our vintage, thc weather seasonable, therefore the wines must prove good ; will he but little larger than last year." 4 September, 1700.--" O u r vintage is begun yesterday in the afternoon. We had some rain ; it did no damage. By computation, here will he made ahout one third part more wine than last year. If the weather be seasonable, it will be good. Sir William Norris left with us a n order to send two hogsheads of Malvasias to Mr. Vernon and Montague, and advice of it to London. P.S.- (14th Seplember).-Our Vintage goes on very well. Here is all appearance of good wines this year ; if the weather remains as it is a t present to the end of the month, most of the wines will be made. There is some small rain this afternoon, but we hope it will not be much." 15 Octobet, 1700.-" I n less than two months the new wines will h~ ready to load, which will, in all appearance be good. I t is computed that the quantity will exceed one third more than the past year. A ketch from Pennsylvania brought us 3600 bushels of wheat. We let her to freight for Terceira, that may be gaining something for paying men's wages, etc., until we can load new wines. . . . Yesterday arrived the WHEEL O F FORTUNE, of Flushing, Captain WILLIAM DE BREE, Commander, to load wine and brandy, but as it is too soon for the new, and the old [wiue] being all shipped o f f , uve could supply with only a small matter, and so despatched him this night. He brought a considerable cargo of goods, being bound down to the West Indies, but we could not take anything ashore. . . Here is now come into Port a small sloop from London, called the MARY, bound to Cape Verde. We suppose hath some other design." 17 J u ~ , 1701. " O u r vintage will not be very large. Here remains several parcels of wines which will be some means to moderate the price next year."

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WILLIAM BOLTON 24 October, 1701.-" Our vintage is small this year. The wines, according to a general opinion, will prove good. Not many old wines left upon the place." 26 September, 1702.-" Our vintage is more than half gathered. This summer has been excessive hot, which lessened the quantity of wines. We can say little of the goodness until they have fermented. The Malvasias are always the latest, and if it should now happen to rain, it will make them much better, which is contrary to the nature of Vidonia. "We have by us about L6oo/7oo in English silver coins. Please to inform yourself when any ships go for India that will take it and give us bills for England. We have the like sum in English, French and Spanish gold, but we know it will not serve for India. When we have any good conveyance of a Man of War, we shall send it for England. Neither the one nor ihe other stands us in any stead in this place." g July, 1703.-" Our new vintage will be much l a r ~ e rthan the former ; the weather has been favourable and continues to this time. The BILBAO MERCHANT, Captain William Everton, Gommander, sailed two days ago for Barbadoes with near 200 pipes, leaving in port a Ketch and a sloop hound to New Eng-land ; here is now arrived the CATHERINE, of Boston, Captain Thomas Gwyn, Commander, with pipcstaves, fish and train-oil : will take some wines for Antigua." 26 Auzust, 1703.-"Our vintage is begun and promiseth well, both for goodnes and quantity ; more than the last year." 19 September, 1703.-" The weather is now seerrlir~gly settled, and if it continues fourteen days, the vintage will be most of it got in ; the rains have done little or no damage." 24 September, 1703.-" We have now had some rain, but the vintage is almost made. Here is arrived a Brigantine from New York, with pipestaves, oil and

18 MADEIRA AND MALMSEY WINE rice, etc. ; a Ketch from Boston and a Sloop in sight which we presume is likewise from New York." 2 0 J u b , r.joq.-" The weather is so very hot and ye grapes so parched up that the vintage will be above a third smaller than the last year. We have shipped ten pipes of Brandy which we were making when Mr. Bolton went off; 'tis supposed to arrive at the goodness of the French." 28 August, 1704.--" The vintage is begun in some parts of the island ; 'twill be very small, the dry weather having scorched up the grapes : malvasias yet fewer." 3 October, 1704.-" Our vintage is almost over. We find there is not above half what was last year. The wines will be good, the grapes being +horoughly ripe and gathered in without rain. 'Tis well there is a pretty many old wines left, else they would have advanced considerably, as yet they may, as ships come in. " I n Port remains a Sloop for Barbadoes, another for Philadelphia, a Ketch and a Sloop for Boston and a Dutchman that makes this conveyance, bound to Flushing with white wine, succatt, etc., who, we suppose, may touch in England." 28 October, 1704.-" Malmseys very few this year ; all that was made in the island does not exceed 80 to xoo pipes. They will be dearer by much than those of the last year, . . there beine so few and evervbodv's eyes upon them." 30 Sejtember, 1705.-" A few days more will put an end to the vintage which we find to be pretty large ; the quality good, as we can at present judge, but of this more in due time. Malmseys are not many this year, ,yet more than the last; what there is will be very rlch and strong, the grapes being in perfection. . . . We believe wines must be in demand in Barbadoes, because the fleet did not touch here, and in the other went but few, nor have there gone since above 350 pipes, which is but few for that island."

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RAINWATER " HABISHAM

the days of William Bolton and down to about the middle of the eighteenth century, Madeira produced mostly red wines and some white wines, both of the beverage wine type, as W-ellas a very limited quantity of Malvasia or Mal~nsey,and even less Vidonia or Vidogna, sweet dessert wines. I t was during the early fifties of the eighteenth century that Madeira began to be fortified and became the sort of wine that we know to-day. The English merchants settled in Madeira at the time did in this but follow the lead given by other English and Scotch merchants at Oporto, who introduced the fortified wines of Portugal in England, where they were received with the same enthusiasm with which were hailed the fortified wines of Madeira by the rich merchants and settlers of New England and Virginia. The demand for the new type of Madeira W-ines rose rapidly, and the larger supplies required were obtained thanks to the enterprise of the Funchal firms who saw to the planting of ever so many new vineyards, each with the species of vine the IN

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most suitable as regards the nature of the soil and the aspect of each new vineyard. But it is only fair to say that no amount of advice given nor any amount of profit promised would have succeeded in covering the steep hill-sides of Madeira with the innumerable small terraced vineyards still to be seen to-day, had it not been for the remarkable enterprise of the Portuguese authorities of the day in constructing the network of irrigation channels which alone made the cultivation of the grape possible in a great many places where it could never have been grown previously. In the days of Zarco, Madeira had a bad reputation among superstitious sailors-and sailors ever were a superstitious lot-owing to the fact that there were almost always clouds hanging over the island, and no one knew exactly what was going on there. That was the time when the isfand was covered by immense forests, forests which it took Zarco seven years to wipe out by fire. Once the trees were gone, the clouds went too, and the climate of the island became excessively dry, relatively speaking ; there was always sufficient moisture near the shore, but the lack of rainfall was acutely felt farther inland. I t was in order to remedy this state of affairs that the irrigation system was introduced. It is still admirably worked today, and its breakdown would mean ruin to the islanders. The island is covered with

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a network of shallow channels, mostly alongside the roads and paths, through which each farmer receives his allotted quantity of water on the appointed day, for so many hours. When his turn comes, he must be prepared to receive the water coming to him, whatever the hour of day or night, and store it in such a way that it wiIl be available and sufficient until his turn comes again, one, two or three weeks hence, according to the size of his holding. The fundamental difference between beverage wines and fortified wines is that the first are ready to drink at a much earlier date than the other. The fermentation of a fortified wine has not been killed by the addition of alcohol, but retarded, and it must be given both time and oxygen, that is to say air, to reach its maximum of excellence. Hence the practice of sending young Madeira wines for a sea voyage to the East or West Indies to mature them, as Port was also often shipped to Newfoundland before being sent to -England. In the case of American merchants-by far the largest purchasers of Madeira winestheir shins called at Madeira or the Azores on theirAway to and from England, as we11 as when bound for the East or Far East, via the Cape of Good Hope. I t was customary for an American vessel, calling at Madeira on her way to India or to China, to take on board a pipe or two of Madeira

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wine for her American owner or owners. There is every reason to believe that the wine purchased for the wealthy shipowners of Boston, New York and Philadelphia, were selected with the greatest care, and were also probably paid for at a higher rate than that paid for the more ordinary and more commercial cargoes of Madeira wines shipped direct from the island to American importers. At the same time, it is quite certain that the first fortified wines shipped direct from Madeira to America could not have been so good as those which had had the benefit of the long sea trip from Madeira to India or China via the Cape of Good Hope, and back by the same way to America. The constant motion of the sailing ships, the heat of the Tropics, crossed twice, the greater access of oxygen to the wine all helped to mature it, gently stimulating its retarded fermentation. The difference between the ordinary commercial Madeiras one could purchase from wine merchants in America and the privatelyimported Madeiras-which had had the benefit of one or even more long sea voyages-was such that, during the latter part of the eighteenth century and the greater part of the nineteenth, Madeira enthusiasts, who were numerous and real experts, always referred to Madeira by the name of the family by whom it had been imported, or by the name of the ship and the year of the voyage. Thus Pinckney, Rutledge, Gadsden or Laureus

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Madeiras referred to wines from well-known Charleston families ; Travers (William R.), Fearing, Goelet, Townsend, Aspinwall, Howland, Lenox and Burd Madeiras were wines from celebrated New York cellars ; and Francis, l l n Gadwalader, Narriet, Padre, Butler, were known as Philadelphia Madeiras. I n his delightful notes on Old Ailadeiras, Mr. F. Gray Griswold relates that in his grandfather's day, when one of his ships arrived from Canton with a pipe of wine, the cask was laid in a passage-way that led from the main office to his private room, and that the clerks were instructed to give it a shove as they passed by. " T h e cradle on which the Madeira stood was a size too large for the cask, so that the least touch would turn the wine over, continning the sea process of helpful disturbance." The same author and authority tells us that his father had a large quantity of old Madeiras, named after his ships-Challenge, Panama, Sarah Helen, Ariel, Helena and Tarolinta. He also adds that in the old days Madeira was never bottled, as it was believed that corks destroyed its delicate flavour, and that, when the wine was considered ripe, it was drawn off into large demijohns and placed in the attic, where there was little light, so that it might clarify and mellow. When wanted, it was siphoned and passed through cheese-cloth into decanters and

24 MADEIRA AND MALMSEY WINE

allowed to settle for a few days before being served. E t was only towards the end of the eighteenth century, after the recognition of the United States independence, that the understanding and appreciation of Madeira was brought to England by officers and civil servants who had lived in America. Then it was that the names of Serciai, Boal, Vidonia and Malmsey became fashionable-names merely of Madeira grapes responsible for the distinctive excellence bf various types of Madeira wines. They also introduced another name which had been unknown in England before : Rainwater Madeira. Rainwater was the name given mostly in Charleston and the South to a Madeira which a Madeira enthusiast, a Mr. Habisham, of Savannah, had succeeded in making lighter in colour an6 body, by some secret fining method, without, so it was claimed, spoiling either flavour or bouquet. There were a number of good judges of Madeira, in America, who preferred " Habisham " or " Rainwater " Madeira to all others, but there were many others who considered it an acquired taste. I t deserved, they said, to be called a gentleman, one that will never remind you to-morrow of the favour he did you last night.

"

RAINWA TER " HABISHAM

25

EXTRACT FROM

A MADEIRA PARTY

BY S. WEIR MITCHELL "This wine came ashore on Absecon Beach from a Spanish wreck, about 1770. Then it was brought to Trenton, and my great uncle bought it. All but a demijohn was buried in his garden, a t the old house, not far from Princeton, to keep it out ofBritish stomachs. The one demijohn kept for use made the mischief I shall tell you of . . My great-uncle " I t was during the war, you know. Edward, who was with Washington, heard that his wife was ill. He got leave, managed to cross the Delaware, and in citizen's clothes made his way to his own country house near Princeton. There he learned that she was not seriously ill, and as the country was full of British scouts, he resolved to go back next day to his duties in Washington's camp. The friend who had aided his adventure and was to set him acxoss the Delaware again, came in about nine of the evening ; and to aid them with the wisdom that is in wine, the demijohn of this disputed wine was brought out. Also a noble bowl of rum punch was brewed, and divers bottles were allowed their say, so that when Mr. Trent departed, Uncle Ned retired in some haste lest he should not be able to retire a t all. I t is probable that he left the candles to burn, and the hall door to close itself. About three in the morning, having snored off his rum and some wine, and hearing a noise, he put

.

26 iMADEIRA AND MALhISEY WIJVE on his boots and a wrapper, and taking his pistols, went downstairs. As he entered the dining-room there were candles burning, fresh logs on the fire, and facing him sat an English captain, lvith his dirty boots on my aunt's best Chippendale arm-chair, and in the act to swallow a glass of wine. Uncle Ned stepped through the open door and covered the unexpected guest with his pistol, at the same time remarking (and he was really the most imperturbable of men), ' Perhaps you are not aware that you are making free with my best Madeira, and really-' " 'Don't shoot, I beg you, until I finish my glass,' said the captain calmly. ' Did I understand you to say Madeira ? Madeira ! It's sherry-unmistakable sherry ! Of course, I don't dispute the ownership.' " 'Very kind of you,' remarked Uncle Ned. ' There seems to have been a considerable transfer of ownership.' " ' That is so,' replied the captain. ' I am like Mary after she ate her lamb. " Everywhere Mary went that lamb was sure to go." Permit me to apologize. The sherry--' " ' I have the honour to assure you that it is Madeira.' " ' Madeira ! Great George ! ' " Now Uncle Ned hated the king and loved his wife, and greatly honoured his own taste in wine. Both his prejudices and his affection had been lightly dealt with, so he said tartly : 'There is only one Great George, and he is across the Delaware, and the wine is Madeira, and you have soiled my wife's chair ; and I wait, Sir, to learn your errand.' " ' I grieve, sir, to say that you will quite too soon know my errand, when I call up the troopers who are back of the house ; or if you are in haste, a shot from you will do as well. Meanwhile permit me most humbly to apologize to Mrs. Hamilton. I regret to continue to differ concerning the wine. As to your George, he is a very small rebel George. Now I am

"

RAINWATER " HABISHAM

27

obliged most reluctantly to finish my unfortunate business ; perhaps, however, we had better see the last of the wine ; you may not have another opportunity.' These remarks somewhat sobered Uncle Ned, and he became of a sudden aware of the trap he was in. So he sat down, with his pistols convenient, and saying, 'with all my heart,' began to push the bottle. The Britisher was good company, and his temper was already so mellowed by wine that he was fast nearing the stage of abrupt mental decay which mellowness naturally precedes. He graciously accepted a tumbler of punch, which my uncle contrived to make pretty strong, and then numberless glasses of wine, enlivened by very gay stories, a t which my uncle was clever. At last the captain rose and said, with some gravity, ' The glasses appear to be all t-twins. We have made a night of it. When you make a n-night of it, you improve the sh-shining hours. And now my painful duty-' " ' One glass more,' said my uncle ; ' and about that story. Pray pardon me, I interrupted you.' "'Oh, yes,' said the captain, emptying a very stiff glass of rum punch which by no means put its own quality into the lessening vigour of his legs. 'As I was saying, I knew a man once-a very clever man ; loved a girl-very clever girl. Man consumedly fond of liquor. Girl didn't know which he liked best, the wine or the woman. One day that girl-he told her a very foolish story about not askin' for wine if she would put a k-kiss in the glass. And that day, instead of a k-kiss she put a little note in the decanter ; and when he had drunk up the wine, and the men were laughing a t this f-fashion of billet doux, he broke the decanter with the poker and read the note. Give you my word, he never drank a drop after that ; and the note it was a very clever note, and it just said-' But a t this moment the captain made a queer noise in his throat, and slipped down, overcome with rebel rum and much Madeira. Uncle Ned humanely C

28 MADEIRA AND MALMSET WINE loosened his cravat and sword-belt, and lost no time in creeping through the dark to his friend's house, where he found clothes and a good hone. He was back in camp next day."

VICTORIAN MADEIRAS warn King Edward came to the throne,

there were, a t Buckingham Palace, bulging bins of the most remarkable Madeiras the world had ever seen-and will ever see. Of all wines, Madeira has certainly the longest life. No other wine will be, not merely acceptable, but superlative a hundred years after i t was made. At the same time, Madeira is not endowed with immortality ; like all that enjoys the gift of lire, the time must come when it loses it and dies. So that King Edward was well advised when he gave his people, and all the wine-lovers of the world, a chance to enjoy some of the Buckingham Palace old Madeiras. There never had been-and there certainly never again will be-seen such Madeiras as those which were sold in 1901 by order of the King. They were old wines, but by no means too old, and the memory of their concentrated essence of vinous perfection is still as fresh to-day as it was thirty years ago in the memory of one, at least, of those who were fortunate enough to taste those marvellous wines at the time. 29

30 MADEIRA AJfD MALMSEY WINE The Buckingham Palace Madeira~had, at the back of them, a long tradition, with roots reaching to Carlton House Terrace. I t was the " First Gentleman in Europe "-as the future George IV was known before 1820who first laid down Royal Madeiras and made Madeira the most fashionable wine in London. Dyott, in his Diary (1781-1845)tells us that His Royal Highness drank no other wine but ~ a d e i r a S,; that it is not surprising to read in the Essay that Dr. Wright published in 1795,that " Madeira, when good, though too potent for common use, is one of the most useful and best for elderly persons in gouty habits, when the functions of life have begun to fail." Doctors ever had a $air for what was-or was soon to be-the fashion, and good Dr. Wright, waxing eloquent, adds that " if Homer had drank it (Madeira), he would have said Olympus again existed, though all his gods are out of fashion." At the close of the eighteenth century, Madeira, old Madeira, finest Madeira and East India Madeira were invoiced by the old Derby firm of Edward and IVilliam Cox, at 36/-, 38/-, 401- and 501- per dozen, respectively. However, with the greater demand during the first twenty years of the nineteenth century, prices rose rapidly, and Madeira became beyond the means of all but the well-to-do classes. Already in the Price Current, published by Bell's Weekly

VICTORIAN MADEIRAS

?I

Messenger, issued on the 29th December, 1799, Madeiras are quoted at L80 to £96 per pipe, and £94 to £110 per pipe for " old " Madeira, when the highest quotation for " old " Port is only L84 per pipe, the highest for Lisbon wines £78 per pipe, and the highest for Vidonia £63 per pipe. The popularity which the wines of Madeira enjoyed in England when Queen Victoria came to the throne induced a number of firms to engage in the Madeira wine trade, over and above those that had been established in the island already for a considerable time. I11 1840, there were no less than thirteen English firms established at Funchal : BLACKBURN G1 CO. ; BLANDY,BURNETT HOUGHTON ; GORDON, DUFF@ CO. ; LEACOCK, HARRISG? CO. ; LEWIS& Co. ; J. H. MARCHG' CO. ; MURDOCK, SHORTRIDGE G' CO. ; PHELPS,PAGE€3 CO. ; RUTHERFORD @ GRANT; NEWTON, GORDON@ Co. ; J. W. & T. SELBY; THOMAS DUNN; J. TAYLOR. Only a few-and those the oldest established -of these firms survived the destruction of the Madeira vineyards, in 1852, by a fungoid disease, the Oidium, which originated in America and was for the first time discovered in Europe by an English gardener, Tucker by name. The oi'dium Tuckerii found the Madeira vignerons quite unprepared, and

32

MADEIRA AND MALMSEY WI3VE

practically the whole of the grapes were destroyed at a fell swoop. Vineyards in Madeira are small in extent, and they are cultivated for the most part by caseiros, on the old feudal system. The caseiro is a farmer-labourer, who pays by way of rent to his landlord half of his main cropr. The caseiro loads and unloads ships when they come in, or else works at road-making or at any other job that comes his way. But, in the evening, and on holidays-and there are more holidays in Madeira than in many less fortunate islands-the casei~o cultivates his little vineyard and his garden, his pumpkins, potatoes, sugar-canes and, in more recent years, his bananas. When the ofdium Tucicerii destroyed his vines, the caseiro was not ruined ; he only lost part of his surplus incorne, and, in fact, half of it only, since his landlord lost also one-half. Many caseiros, unwilling to tempt Providence, did not replant vines at all ; they replaced them with sugar-canes or maize or beans. Others replanted commoner and sturdier vine-stocks, but even those commoner vines were in their turn destroyed when, in 1873, another American blight, the Phylloxera Vastatrix descended upon the island in the form of an ugly and astoundingly prolific subterranean bug which attached itself to the roots of the vines with devastating passion. Two such terrible visitations within less than a quarter of the same century would

VICTORIAN MADEIRAS

zz

.,U

almost certainly have put an end to the making of Madeira wines, had it not been for the courage, foresight and devotedness of some of the English merchants in Madeira, and more particularly Thomas Leacock and Charles Blandy. Thomas Slapp Leacock was the greatgreat-grandson of one John Leacock, citizen and weaver of London, who died in or about 1725, in London, soon after the birth of his son, John. Young John was sent to Christ Hospital School at a very early age. Christ Hospital not only educated the boy, but, in 1741, they paid Five Pounds to John Catanach, of Madeira, Merchant, who undertook to supply his apprentice with meat, drink, apparel, washing and lodging, as well as proper tuition, during seven years. On his part, young John Leacock signed an Indenture on the 9th March, I 741, promising to serve his master faithfully during his term of apprenticeship, and not to commit fornication nor contract marriage before full seven years. John Leacock served his master faithfully, and eventually embarked in the wine trade on his own account, in 1759-60 His great-grandson, Thomas, who was born in 1817 and died in 1883, lived through and fought both the ordium and phylloxera visitations ; he did much to find means to prevent their recurrence. Of an original and scientific turn of mind, he devoted a great deal of time to research work of the utmost value

34 MADEIRA ASD MALMSEY WINE to all who were engaged in the wine trade of Madeira. The fact that he had inherited some valuable vineyards and had established others at his own expense, gave him an excellent opportunity of making practical experiments, and whatever useful knowledge he gained was immediately passed on to others for the good of all. He bequeathed the results of his researches to Cambridge University. What Thomas Leacock did for the viticulture of Madeira, Charles Blandy did for the wine trade of the island. He was an entirely different type of man, not in the least scientifically minded, but a man with great common sense, extraordinary business jcir and ability, and possessed of an imperturbable confidence in himself, his country and the future. If there are still splendid examples of pre-phylloxera and even of preojidium wines left in Madeira, it is chiefly due to the foresight and courage of Charles Blandy. It was, to a very large extent, due to him that there was no panic, no hasty realization of stocks to stave off the financial ruin which threatened Madeira merchants, when the island's vines were destroyed and the caseiro showed so little inclination to replant them. Charles Blandy built up stocks of fine Madeiras during those troubled years, when so many of his weaker brethren had lost a11 faith in the future of the wine trade of Madeira, stocks which have proved since

VICTORIAN MADEIRAS

15

of the utmost value not only to his descendants and his own firm, which is theirs to-day, but to the reputation of Madeira. As a well-authenticated example of the almost incredible longevity of fine Madeira wine, the following experience is worth recording. I n January, 1933, Dr. Michael Grabham, the grand old man of Madeira, celebrated his ninety-third birthday, which was the occasion on which I tasted for the first time an authentic I792 Madeira, perfect as regards colour, bouquet and flavour, but even more remarkable, if possible, on account of its pedigree. "This wine," the old Doctor told me, "was made in 1792, a very good year indeed, and, by the way, the year when my father was born. When, in 1815, Napoleon I called a t Madeira, on his way farther south, to St. Helena, this 1792 wine was picked out as likely to become very fine, with age, and it was bought for the fallen Emperor, to help him forget the duress of exile. But, as you know, they found out that he suffered from some gastric trouble-some said that it was cancer of the stomach-and they would not let him drink this wine. As a matter of fact, the Emperor died in 1820, and this 1792 was hardly ready by then. The curious thing about it was that nobody had paid for the wine. That is to say, the English Consul a t Funchal, a Mr. Veitch, had paid the merchant who had put the wine on board His Britannic Majesty's ship, in 1815, but he, Veitch, had never been able to get the money refunded. So he did the next best thing. He claimed the pipe of 1792 as his own, and he got it back in Madeira, in 1822, when he sold it to Charles BIandy. His son, John Blandy, bottled the wine in 1840, and that happens to be the year when I was

36 MADEIRA AND MALMSEY WINE born. I married his daughter; that is how the wine came to me, and why I can ~ i v eit to you to-day."

Further evidence of the extraordinary popularity of Madeira in England at the end of the eighteenth century and the beginning of the nineteenth is to be found in the recentlypublished book of Major H. C. Dent on English Wine Labels.* The author states that " labels entitled MADEIRA are far more in evidence than any other wine or spirit. Indeed, it is no uncommon occurrence when inspecting a tray of wine labels in an antique shop, to find that more than half the number bear the inscription of this one-time popular wine." After deploring the fact that many of the genuine old Madeira wine labels are being tampered with, the name Madeira being replaced by the name of other wine? or spirits more popular to-day, the author adds : "Many tributes to the excellence of Madeira are to be found in Philip Guedalla's epic work on ' The Duke,' published in 1931 ; the author, quoting from the Apsley House papers, refers to the fact that his hero 'lived in a n age when military manners prescribed officially a monthly ration of fifteen bottles of Madeira as the bare limit of necessity.' This was in 1801, when the Duke of Wellington-then Colonel Wellesley-was in command at Mysore after his conquest of Tippoo Sahib by the capture of Seringapatam. Again we find mention of the virtue of Madeira in official dis* "Wine, Spmt and Sauce Labels oi the 18th and 19th By Major Herbert H. W. Hunt, 1933. 12s.6d. net. Centuries."

C.

Dent, M.B.E., Norwrch.

JTIC TORIAN MAD EIRAtS

77

patches during the Mahratta war of 1803, where it is recorded that : ' Meariwhile the Army bound up its wounds, assisted by a dozen of the General's own Madeira for every tent of casualties.' If such was the pop~llarityOC Madeira in the old Company days in the East, it was, we find, held in no less estcem during the Peninsular War. I n 1813, we read in an official report that Wellington himself in a n amusing manner refers to the special merit of Madeira as a potent factor in obtaining military information. A captured French Colonel of Marshal Soult's defeated army had been somewhat severely interrogated by the British Staff officers, when the Duke ' interfered quietly and whispercd to them to let the prisoner alone, as after a good dinner and a few glasses of Madeira, our friend will mend.' Those who read Gucdalla's stirring volume will learn how entirely successful the treatment answered, the mellowillg effect of a sound Madeira being responsible for obtaining all the information required. This exceptional consumption of Madeira continued u p to my own Service days in the India of fifty years ago when this excellent wine was still the vogue, and, regarded as a necessary appetizer, took the place of the modern coclrtail in every British mess."

T H E MADEIRA WINES OF TO-DAY

WINTERand summer alike, Madeira is an ideal port of call for the ever-growing number of people who find Pleasure Cruises one of the most enjoyable and beneficial of holidays. Curiously enough, Ocean Cruises are bringing back into favour the wines of Madeira after a long eclipse. Madeira is a delightful island, but it is small. The wines of Madeira are delightful, but their supply is a limited one. There was so great a shortage of fine Madeiras, after the phylloxera invasion, that many gave up Madeira, and many more forgot all about it. But now, now that there has been ample time for large stocks of wines to be built up, now that matured wines are once more available, now is the time, the appointed hour of the return to popularity of the wines of Madeira. They say that seeing is believing, and that is why the many pleasure cruises calling at Madeira are doing so much to bring back the wines of the island into favour. So many have seen the vines grow during the spring and summer months ; some also have had the good fortune to visit Madeira at the vintage time, and to see the pressing of the 38

THE MADEIRA WINES OF TO-DAY 39 . -

grapes in the old-fashioned way, in large troughs filled to overflowing, with bare-legged men dancing about to the tune of the machete or local guitar ; six men in all, three on either side of a large central beam. But at all seasons of the year, visitors to the island are always welcome to some of the large wine lodges, where they can see how the wine is matured and where they can taste, on the spot, the different types of wines produced in the island. There is no Chateau Lafite nor any other chateau in Madeira ; there is no Clos de Vougeot nor Schloss Johannisberg in Madeira, and the best Madeira is the best blend. The best blend is necessarily the blend of wines made from the best grapes, the grapes being all-important as regards both the style and the excellence of different wines. The " best " means that which is most suitable. Just as the black grapes of Champagne are not at all suitable for the making of a wine of the type of Port, any more than the white grapes of Portugal are at all suited for the making of a sparkling white wine of the Champagne type, so there are grapes in Madeira which are admirably suited for the making of luscious and delicious wines of the old Malmsey type, the wine that William Bolton of old complained he could never get enough of, the same sort of wine that, many years before, the unfortunate Duke of Clarence was drowned in. Unfortunately the Malvasia grape, the

40

MADEIRA AND MALMSEY WINE

grape responsible for the true and best Malmsey wine, does not grow freely anywhere, and will not grow everywhere. I t can only be planted on the southern coast of the island, in chosen positions, and the real Malmsey can never be cheap. The same remarks apply to the Sercial grape, a very different species of grape, one which gives the most typical Madeira wine. There are Malmsey wines resembling the Madeira Malmsey, made in some other sunny vineyards of the world, but nowhere else is there a wine made which can be said to resemble thc Sercial, a wine remarkable for its great distinction and the austerity of its farewell. I t is claimed that the Sercial grape is the same as the Riesling of the Rhine. I t may have the same parentage, but it has certainly acquired in the soil and under the climate of Madeira entirely different characteristics. Another and probably the most popular type of Madeira wine is the Boal, pronounced locally Boual, hence the usual English spelling Bual. This is not, as a matter of general practice, made entirely from one kind of grape alone, and that grape the Boal. I t is usually a blend of grapes first, and of wines of similar character at a later stage. I t has more power than a Malmsey wine, but it is not nearly so luscious ; it is, on the other hand, richer than a Sercial, more understandable at a first introduction, being free from

THE MADEIRA WINES OF TO-DAY 41 the austere, rather puzzling finish of the Sercial. The Boa1 is probably the most " complete," the best-balanced wine of the island. But there are many other species of vines grown, and many other types of wines made in Madeira available for the " Shipper," that is to say the man or the firm combining the enterprising spirit of the pioneer, the financial stability of the banker and the wholeheartedness of the philanthropist-a rare and admirable combination indeed ! Each shipper has his own way of selecting certain proportions of wines made every year from all manner of grapes, from all parts of the island, and blending them one with the other, to begin with, and, later, when he sees how the young married wines have behaved, he blends them again, adding this time wines of greater age, wines specially selected and jealously hoarded away for that very purpose. I n this way, it is possible to give the connoisseur a very considerable range of different wines to choose from. It is, in fact, possible to give him just the wine that he fancies; whether he wants a little more or a little less colour, sweetness, body or flavour, it is only a matter of taking pains-and having sufficiently large stocks of old wines in reserve-to arrive by judicious blending at what his particular idea of perfection happens to be. Great as is the individuality of the many different wines of Madeira, they must all go through

4.2

MADEIRA AND MALMSET W I N E

the same initial processes before being ready to be blended. First of all the grapes are pressed and their sweet juice, callcd Mosto, is conveyed as quickly as possible from the vineyards to Funchal. From the hill-sides, this Mosto is mostly brought to the Lodges in goat skins, containing about 12 gallons each, by the Borracizeiros, men who walk from 12 to 15 miles in record time with a weight of about 150 lbs. across their shoulders. From some vineyards on the southern slopes of the island, the Modo is sent to the Lodges, at Funchal, in casks, on sledges drawn by tough little oxen down the steep cobbled roads. From the northern shores of Madeira, the Mosto is shipped in casks in sailing barques to .. Funchal. When the Mosto gets to the shipper's Lodces, a t Funchal. it ferments and becomes vinh; dlaro, or new'wine. The Vinho Claro is then treated in a way which is peculiar to Madeira ; it is treated by heat, in Estufas, or hot chambers, where it is subject to a temperature varying from 100" to 160°, according to the length of time allowed by different shippers and for different wines. As a matter of general practice, the higher the temperature, the shorter will be the wine's stay in the Estufa. When it leaves the Estufa, the Vinho Claro is known as Vinho Estufado. Then the Estnlfado Vinho is racked, after

T H E MADEIRA WINES OF TO-DAY 43 having been given a good rest, and it becomes Tnzsfugado Vinho. The Trasfu.gado Vinho is then fortified, or Alcoolisado, -w;th an average of some 10. per cent. of its volume added alcohol, by which time it has become Vinha Generaso. Vinhos Generosos are then blended among themselves first, and with the wines of former years at a later stage, before they are allotted to a number of different vattings, or Lots, and left alone to be perfected by the greatest of all masters-Time. The considerable amount of trouble taken with the young wines of Madeira is responsible for the fact that they will stand more rough usage and live longer than any other wine. On the other hand, Madeira must be given time to mature : many wines, not only Moselles, but even Clarets and Champagne, can be enjoyable when quite young, but Madeira never is. Time, of course, means money; it means locked up capital and lost interest ; it means loss of wine through evaporation and ullage ; it means higher insurance charges and greater risks. Hence Madeira cannot compete with other fortified wines as regards cost, but it does compete with the cheapest of all as regards value, a very different proposition. There is the same sort of difference between Madeira and a wine such as Marsala, for instance, as there is between cheap scent and dear : a small bottle of the '' essence " may cost ten times D

44 MADEIRA AND MALMSEY WIXE more than the same size bottle of the cheap variety, but a single drop of the essence will be better and more lasting than twenty drops of the other. There is no other wine with such a searching and lasting flavour as Madeira, nor is there any wine that is better value. It is the wine par excellence as a stand-by, one to be in every sideboard, ready to welcome the friend who happens to call, or to comfort the tired breadwinner when hz reaches home in the evening after a more than usually trying day's work. A wine of the Boa1 type, costing from 5/- to 6/-, is admirably suited for the purpose. Before dinner, in place of the expensive spirit cocktail and as a change from Sherry, a glass of Madeira or of Malmsey, according to individual tastes for dry or sweet wines, needs not cost more than 6d. a glass, in the home, or I/- in the restaurants. With the soup, and more particularly with turtle soup, a Sercial Madeira is excellent, but the end of the meal is the time when Madeira should be given pride of place. From the driest Sercials to the richest Malmseys, there is a whole gamut of wines of varying degrees of excellence and age from which the wine-lover can choose exactly the type of wine that he and his guests are likely to enjoy most. But, in order to enjoy Madeira and Malmsey, one should drink them with the right

T H E MADEIRA W I j W OF TO-DAY 45 kind of dish or dainty. How is one to know what is right and how to make or get the right thing ? Ask Elizabeth Craig. She knows and she also knows how to help othcrs to learn.

M A D E I R A A N D M A L M S E Y FOR S A UCE AJVD P A R TT " Cocktails ? It's awfully good of you, but to tell you the honest truth, I am getting a wee bit tired of cocktails. Let's tty something else. Have a glass o f Dry Madeira with me. IJ' AndrL Simon is around, I know he'll back me U$. I haae this famous authorip on wine to thank for introducing me to Madeira."

EARLY MORNING MALMSEY

WHENI was young I scorned the people who had to make a break a t eleven o'clock to enjoy a cup of tea and something to eat. A year or two ago an attentive servant, who didn't like to dawdle over her cup of tea if I hadn't something to dawdle over too, gradually wangled me into accepting a cup of coffee at 1 1 a.m. But now that Mr. Simon has introduced me to Malmsey, I've said good-bye to coffee. To me, a large glass of Malmsey and a plain biscuit or a piece of plain cake, is the ideal " elevenish." If you want to make Malmsey the fashion at eleven o'clock, or a t any hour of the day when a glass of wine and light refreshments are called for, you must be prepared to serve the fare that goes with it. Malmsey doesn't require any rich accompaniment, but it deserves something better than the plain biscuit. I will just give you a few recipes for tasty biscuits which you will find are really excellent with the " elevenish " glass of Malmsey. 49

50

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY BISCUITS AND CAKES TO SERVE WITH MALMSEY AND MADEIRA

Thrums Biscuits 2 OZ.

f lb. ground rice

1

2 OZ.

I

butter egg lemon

castor sugar

Beat butter and sugar to a cream. Add egg, and beat well with a wooden spoon. Grate lemon rind into the mixture. Stir it in with the ground rice. Turn on to a lightly floured pastry board. Cut into diamonds or stars. Place on a well-floured baking tin. Bake in a quick oven (375-4ooo Fahr.), for about 10 minutes till pale gold. Turn on to a cake rack to cool.

York Crisjs g lb. flour

+ gill milk

2 OZ. butter $ lb. castor sugar

Sift flour into a basin. Rub in butter with the tips of fingers. Stir in sugar. Make into a dough with milk, adding a little more, if necessary. If wanted very short, substitute beaten egg yolk for the milk. Turn on to a lightly floured board. Roll out to one-sixth inch thick. Cut into small rounds. Place

EARLY MORNING MALMSEY

g1

on a floured baking tin. Prick with a fork. Bake in a quick oven (375-4o0° Fahr.) for about ten minutes till pale gold. Cool on a cake rack.

Shrewsbury Snippets 4

4 oz. butter 1

egg

Grated rind

OZ.

castor sugar

+ teaspoonful baking

lb. flour I

lemon

powder

Beat butter and sugar to a cream. Stir in egg, flour sifted with baking powder and lemon rind. Mix well together. Turn on to a floured board. Knead till smooth. Roll out thinly. Cut into strips 3 X 14. Place on a floured tin. Bake in a hot oven (375400' Fabr.) for 5 to 10 minutes, when they should be pale gold. Sometimes I add a handful of cleaned currants with the flour. Cool on a cake rack.

Wine Biscuits 8 oz. flour I oz. castor sugar

4 oz. buttcr Milk as required

Sift flour into a basin. Rub in butter. Stir in sugar. Mix to a dough with milk.

52

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AXD PARTY

Turn on to a floured board. Roll out to wafer thinness. Cut into rounds. Place on a floured baking tin. Prick with a fork. Brush with milk. Sprinkle with carraway seeds. Bake in a quick oven (375-4o0° Fahr.) till brown.

Butter Biscuits 1

2

Pinch salt teaspoonful baking powder

lb. flour egg oz. butter

&

Sift flour, baking powder and salt into a basin. Rub in butter. Add as much egg as is required. Make a stiff dough. Turn on to a lightly-floured board. Knead well. Roll out three times, then roll out very thinly. Cut into rounds. Prick with a fork. Bake in a quick oven (375-400' Fahr.) in a buttered tin till pale gold and crisp. Cool on a cake rack.

Derby Crisps oz. flour teaspoonful vanilla essence

12

&

8 oz. salt butter q oz. castor sugar 2 egg yolks

Beat butter and sugar to a cream. Sift and stir in flour. Mix in egg yolks and

EARLY MORNING MALMSEY

51

vanilla. Turn on to a floured board. Knead wcll. Roll out or mould to a 2 inch thickness. Cut into fancy shapes. Brush with a little beaten egg-white. Sprinkle with castor sugar. Bake in a quick oven (375-400' Fahr.) till pale brown and glazed.

Langues de Chat 4 I

q oz. butter 3 egg whites

castor sugar oz. Aour OZ.

I always keep two vanilla pods in a large jar of castor sugar, so that I can have these biscuits delicately flavoured with vanilla, without having to add any essence. Sift flour three times. Stir in sugar, then melted butter. Fold in whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Force oblongs of mixture, with a plain pipe, on to baking tins. Bake in a modetate oven for 10-15 minutes. Cool on a cake rack. Eton Biscuits 6 oz. sifted flour Beaten egg I teaspoonful baking powder lb. butter

2 lb. sugar Jam 4 teaspoonful ground cinnamon

Sift flour with baking powder and cinnamon.

54

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

Rub in butter and stir in sugar. Moisten with beaten egg as required. Roll out thinly on a lightly-floured board. Cut into rounds with the top of a wineglass or fluted cutter. Bake on a lightly greased tin in a fairly quick oven for 10 minutes. Cool and put together with raspberry jam in between. Ice top of each biscuit with sugar, moistened with cold water and flavoured very delicately with orange flower water. Bake in an oven 400-450" Fahr. Cool on a cake rack.

Abernethy Biscuits lb. flour egg teaspoonful baking powder 3 oz. butter

+

1

3 I I

OZ. sugar tablespoonful milk teaspoonful carraway seeds

Sift flour and baking powder into a basin. Rub in butter. Add sugar and seeds, and moisten with beaten egg and milk. Turn on to a floured board. Roll out thinly. Cut into rounds. Place on a greased baking sheet and bake in a moderate oven (400" Fahr.) for ro minutes. Cool on a cake rack.

Madeleines 4

fi

eggs

lb. castor sugar lb. flour

$ lb. butter g teaspoonful vanilla essence

EARLY MORjVIjVG MALMSEY

55

Break eggs into a basin. Add sugar. Beat over hot water until thick and creamy. If preferred, use a double boiler. Sift flour on to a piece of paper. Melt butter. Remove egg basin from hot water. Stir in flour, melted butter and vanilla. Three-quarters fill buttered madeleine moulds with the mixture. Bake in a quick oven (375-400' Fahr.) for about 10 minutes. Turn out. Cool on a cake rack.

Balmorak Loaf 4 eggs lb. castor sugar

lb. flour Grated rind

4 lemon

Beat eggs and. sugar till frothy. Sift flour. Beat eggs and sugar for 20 minutes in the top of a double boiler, or stand basin in hot water. When ready, the eggs and sugar should have doubled in quantity. Stir in flour, lightly and quickly. Butter a ridged loaf tin. Sprinkle with castor sugar. Pour in mixture at once. Bake in a moderate oven (325-350' Fahr.) for 20 minutes to half an hour. Cool on a cake rack.

56

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTT Queen Cakes

f lb. butter 6 oz. flour oz. candied orange peel 3 eggs I

2 lb. castor sugar 2 lb. sultanas f teaspoonful baking powder Grated rind

I

lemon

Beat butter and sugar to a cream in a basin. Sift flour with baking powder. Beat eggs. Stir flour and eggs alternately into butter and sugar. Mince candied peel and clean sultanas. Stir in fruit, grated lemon rind, and 2 tablespoons milk. Beat well with a wooden spoon. Half fill buttered patty pans. Bake in a quick oven (375-400' Fahr.) for hour. Cool on a cake rack.

HOW TO GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY

To give a successful party, you must first of all get together people who like each other, people who will be pleased to meet each other. Having first " caught your hare," you must see to the right " sauce." You must not give them what you like best, nor as much or as little as you think is good for them, but what they like best and as much as they like. Something that is new is always popular. Try the novelty of a Madeira party in place of a Cocktail or a Sherry party, and you will find that your friends will jump at the idea. A dry Madeira is the obvious Madeira to give as an Aperitif, as a wine that will titivate the alate and stimulate the appetite. So let g r y Madeira be well to the fore. But remember, all the same, that some people have a sweet tooth. There is no reason why they should be ashamed of it. Napoleon the First was never so happy as when sucking a lump of candy. So they say. Anyway, just have a decanter of Malmsey Madeira handy 57

58

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

for the Napoleons among your friends who may have the courage of their opinion and ask for a sweeter wine than the dry Madeira that you and I think is better for them as an Aperitif. I usually serve Madeira in sherry glasses, elongated in shape. But you can offer it in a round-bowled glass if you prefer it As far as relishes and appetizers are concerned, I would allow roughly the following for twenty-five people :

Salted or Devilled N u t s . 4 pound. Olives.--I small bottle of black, green, and stuffed.

Potato Crisps.-2

small packets.

L4ppetizers.-q, dishes. Savoury Sandwiches.-2:

varieties-such as mushroom and fish, fish and liver paste, or liver paste and cheese, etc.

The best way to serve refreshments at a Madeira party is to allow guests to help themselves to appetizers, relishes, etc., from small tables in the lounge, all set to match, even to cigarettes, matches and ash trays. If the party is a large one, and small tables would interfere with the seating accommodation, then a better way to serve refreshments is on a long refectory table in an adjoining

HOW TO GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY

59 -

room. The first method, however, which makes for less confusion, should be followed, when possible. If the host or hostess prefers, instead of serving four dishes of different kinds of appetizers, a few of each can be arranged for each table, on a large dish. I also advocate arranging olives in a dish with a saucer or stand to take the stones, and supplying aperitif serviettes made of cr6pe paper to each table. I t is how you attend to little points of this kind that make or mar a party.

WHATNOTS

Every little while some enterprising hostess invents a new relish for her aperitif party. If you haven't time to do so, you can still give a delightful Madeira party with only the company of devilled and salted nuts, salted potato crisps and latticed wafers, and black, green, and stuffed olives.

Devilled and Salted Almonds

8 lb. Jordan

almonds pint boiling water 3 tablespoonfuls butter I

I tablespoonful table salt Paprika to taste Celery salt or cayenne

Measure nuts into a basin. Cover with boiling water. Stand 5 or 6 minutes. Throw E

60

MADEIR'4 FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

into cold water. Remove and skin with the fingers. Dry in a towel. Melt butter in frying pan until it begins to smoke. Throw in nuts and fry, stirring frequently till golden all over. Remove with a draining spoon to a colander lined with brown paper. Sprinkle with the salt and paprika. Shake off any loose salt. Turn on to another piece of paper to dry. Store, when cold, in an air-tight jar. To Devil Salted Almonds.-Sprinkle also with cayenne pepper or tobasco, and celery salt to taste. Peanuts and Pecans.--They can be bought ready for salting or already salted. To Devil Chestnuts.-Allow 14 tablespoonfuls butter to I dozen chestnuts. Shell and slice chestnuts thinly. Fry slowly in smoking hot butter till well browned. Turn frequently. Finish off like Devilled Salted Almonds. Potato Crisfi~ Saratoga Chips (Shadow Potatoes), Lattice Potatoes and Potato Curls are all suitable " crisps " for serving at an aperitif party. Wash and pare potatoes before crisping. Drain well on brown paper after crisping, and dredge with salt. Saratoga Ch$s.-Cut pared potatoes in waferthin slices, with a vegetable slicer. Throw into a basin of ice-cold water. Stand for hour. Change the water. Stand for another

HOW TO GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY

61

2 hour.

Change water again. Stand J hour, drain, plunge in a saucepan of boiling water, and boll I minute. Throw into a colander to drain, then in a basin of cold water to cover. Stand for a moment, remove from water, and dry well between kitchen towels. Fry in deep smoking hot fat until pale brown, keeping chips moving all the time with a spoon. Drain and salt. Lattice Potatoes.-Slice pared potatoes with a lattice vegetable slicer into a basin of cold water to cover. Stand r hours. Drain well, and dry between two kitchen towels. Fry and finish off like Saratoga Chips. Potato Curls.-Choose kidney potatoes. Pare and cut into curls with a potato curler. Throw into cold water. Stand I hour. Drain dry. Finish off like Saratoga Chips. To Serve Nuts and Crisps.-Arrange in cutcrystal or glass, or silver dishes, lined with a lace paper d'oyley. Glass or crystal is best, as salt eats into silver. To Serve Olives.-slack, ,green, and stuffed. Remove from bottle. Oram well in a colander or strainer. Chill slightly. Serve refreshed with Madeira. RELISHES

If you've time to make relishes for your Madeira party, or have a cook who can make them for you, be sure to provide a good assortment. Most hostesses show little

62

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY -

imagination when it comes to selecting appetizers. It's quite wrong to serve nothing but fishflavoured appetizers. It's equally wrong to have cheese tit-bits predominating. Varv, vonr ,--appetizers, not o h y the filliggs, but the cases, and your aperitif parties, if laced with Madeira, will always be a success.

Anchovy CanapJs anchovy fillets tomato thin pancake size of a tea plate Salt and cayenne to taste 2 I I

I oz. butter Tomato purhe to taste teaspoonful minced parsley

+

Make a little batter in the usual way. Season with salt, pepper and chopped parsley and fry i n a pancake. Pound fillets in a mortar with the butter and purke. When pancake is ready, spread with mixture. Sprinkle with a little cayenne. Roll up slice and put each slice on a thin slice of tomato. Place each savoury on a tiny round of buttered toast. Make piping hot in the oven. Serve a t once.

Anchovy and Tomato Canafids 8 oz. firm tomatoes 2 tablespoonfuls whipped cream

7 anchovy fillets Paprika and cayenne to taste

HOW T O GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY -

63

Scald and carefully peel tomatoes. Mince anchovies. Mix together in a mortar. Pound to a paste. Season to taste. Stir in cream. Spread rounds of cold fried bread, 2 inches in diameter, with mixture. Decorate each canapt5 with mustard and cress.

Anchoix Duchesse 6 anchovy fillets

g teaspoonfu! lemon juice g teaspoonful minced

&

lb. butter hard-boiled eggs Pepper to taste 2

parsley

Mince fillets, and place mince in a mortar. Add butter, egg yolks, lemon juice and pepper and parsley. Pound well till smooth, adding a little salt, if required. Spread rounds of bread, the size of half-a-crown, fried in butter (when cold), with the paste. Sprinkle with finely-minced egg white. Place half a stuffed olive in the centre, if liked.

Anchoy Sticks 6 slices buttered toast 2 doz. stuffed olives

Anchovy fillets Devonshire cream

Remove crusts neatly from toast. Cut toast into inch-wide strips. Spread each strip thinly with anchovy paste, then with Devonshire

64

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

cream. Lay a fillet of anchovy on each. Sprinkle each with a minced olive.

Biscuits Diablks

4

lb. flour Milk .Melted butter

I oz. butter Salt to taste Grated cheese

Sift flour and salt into a basin. Rub in butter with the tips of fingers. Make into a soft, smooth paste with milk. Pound for 7 minutes in a mortar, adding flour as required. Cover and stand I hour. Take small chunks, the size of a walnut. Roll out as thinly as possible. Prick all over with a fork. If you prefer, you can roll the pastry out, then cut into small rounds and prick. Place on a baking sheet. Bake till brown and crisp. Spread with melted butter. Sprinkle with grated Gruyhre or Parmesan cheese. Dust with cayenne. Make piping hot in oven. Serve at once.

Camembert Crackers I Camembert cheese Salt and paprika to taste

Small round cream crackers

Carefully remove crust from cheese, which should be creamy. Spread cheese thickly

HOW TO GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY

65

on crackers. Dust with salt and paprika. Bake in a quick oven (375-400' Fahr.) for 5 minutes until cheese is golden. Serve at once.

4 minced olives $ cupful whipped cream I

g

teaspoonful instantaneous gelatine teaspoonful minced chives

cup grated Cheddar tablespoonful minced pimento I teaspoonful lemon juice 3 teaspoonfuls cold water I teaspoonful Malmsey I I

Soften gelatine in cold water, then dissolve over boiling water. Stir into the whipped cream. Mix in olives, chives, lemon juice, cheese, pimento, salt and paprika to taste and Malmsey. Chill. Spread on small unsweetened biscuits. Garnish with minced parsley or olives.

Cuperettes I

4

teaspoonful capers doz. olives, stuffed

g

doz. anchovy fiilets 6 croutes fried bread

Cut slices of bread 1 inch thick. Stamp into 6 croutes 14 inches in diameter. Fry till golden in a little hot bacon fat or butter. Drain well. Chop anchovy fillets, and rub through a Mare sieve. Spread the croutes

66

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

with the purke. Chop capers and olives together, and sprinkle on top of purke. Place in a fireproof dish. Heat in a moderate oven for 10 minutes. Serve garnished with sprigs of parsley.

Caviare Tit-Bits Cut one or two slices of stale bread inch thick, into diamonds, or ivy leaves, or small rounds. Fry in deep, smoking hot fat till crisp and pale gold. Drain well. Spread with caviare, seasoned to taste with pepper and lemon juice. Sprinkle with minced chives. (2) Spread narrow strips 34 inches long, with caviare, seasoned pepper and lemon juice to taste. Sprinkle with a little minced onion and watercress. (3) Spread thin rounds, 14 inches in diameter, of short crust, seasoned to taste with salt, cayenne and lemon juice, baked till crisp, and cooled, with highly-seasoned egg yolk moistened with butter. Top with ice-cold caviare, and put a tiny rose of whipped cream in centre of each.

B

(I)

Cheddar Faggot5 I cupful grated Cheddar Paprika to taste Left-over flaky pastry

&

teaspoonful dry mustard

HOW TO GIVE A AnlADEIRA PARTY

67

Roll scraps of pastry out on a lightlyfloured pastry board. Spread half with the cheese, mustard and paprika. Cover with other half. Roll lightly. Cut some into 2-inch strips and remainder into rings. Bake on a baking sheet in a hot oven (375' Fahr.) for 5-8 minutes. Serve the faggots in the rings.

Cheese Ovals 3 oz. grated cheese lb. flour Salt and cayenne to taste

3 2

OZ. butter egg yolks

Sift flour into a basin. Rub in butter. Stir in cheese, cayenne and salt and egg yolks. If eggs are small, you may need another yolk. Turn paste on to a lightlyfloured pastry board. Roll to 3 inch thickness. Cut into tiny rounds. Place on a buttered baking sheet. Bake in a quick oven (about 450' Fahr.) for 10 minutes, or till crisp and brown.

Cheese Sticks Remove crusts neatly from a stale sandwich loaf. Cut stale bread in $ inch slices. Spread thinly with butter. Gut into equal-sized sticks. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Season with salt and cayenne to taste. Place on a baking

68

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

sheet. Bake in the top of oven until delicately browned.

Cheese Toasts egg yolk tablespoonful melted butter Wafers of bacon I

Rounds of bread I cupful grated cheese Salt and paprika to taste

Mix yolk, cheese and butter. When smooth, season with salt and paprika. Cut one or two slices of bread inch thick. Shape into rounds 3 inches in diameter. Spread with cheese paste. Place a wafer of bacon on top. Grill till brown.

Chesham Wafers r oz. grated Parmesan

4

tablespoonful thick cream

Unsweetened ice wafers 2 OZ. grated Gruyere Pepper and salt to taste

Spread wafers thinly with butter, beaten and flavoured cayenne to taste. Mix cheese to a paste with cream. Season to taste with pepper and salt. Spread thinly on wafers. Place on baking tins. Bake in the top of an oven till crisp. Serve hot, piled in a silver entree dish lined with a lace paper d'oyley.

HOW T O GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY

6a

Cheshire CanapL~ 8 canapCs 2 inches in diameter I dessertspoonfulMadeira 4 OZ. Cheshire cheese

teaspoonful French mustard I oz. butter Salt and cayenne I

Toast unbuttered canapb or fry in a little hot butter or bacon fat till crisp and golden. Slice cheese into a mortar. Pound to a paste with butter. Season to taste with the mustard, Madeira, salt and cayenne. Mix well. Spread on canap6. Make piping hot in oven before serving. Enough for 8 persons.

Cheveux de Diable 4 anchovy fillets

14 OZ. I

butter egg yolk

r oz. flour 14 oz. Parmesan Cayenne to taste

Sift flour with a pinch of salt into a basin. Rub in butter. Add grated Parmesan and cayenne to taste. Mix well. Add beaten egg yolk, diluted with a little water, using only enough of the mixture to make a stiff dough. Turn on to a lightly-floured board. Cut paste into strips 34 inches long. Cut each anchovy fillet in two. Pair half a fillet and a strip of paste. Twist together into a corkscrew. When all are paired, place

70

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

on a floured pastry sheet. Bake in a moderate oven for about 2 0 minutes.

Chicken Liver Patties Remove crusts from half a stale sandwich loaf. Cut bread into +inch thick slices, then cut each slice into four 2-inch squares. Wash, dry, slice and fry 2 or 3 very fresh chicken livers in butter for q or 5 minutes, till cooked. Mash with a wooden spoon. Stir in an egg yolk and enough cream to make mixture into a creamy filling. Stir over the fire till egg yolk is cooked, but don't allow to boil. Season to taste with lemon juice, paprika and salt. Keep hot while you hollow out each bread cube, and fry them in butter till golden. Stuff cubes with mixture. Sprinkle with minced chives or parsley. Serve at once.

Cod's Roe Canatds Boil cod's roe in salted water till cooked. Drain well. Leave till cold. Mix to a paste with melted butter. Season to taste with ground mace, pepper, paprika and salt. Place in a saucepan. Add a squeeze of lemon juice and enough butter to make a thick paste. Spread on canapb of fried bread.

NOW TO GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY

71

Decorate with minced gherkin in centre and minced bacon round.

Cowes Regatta Tit-Bits Drain 8 sardines in a piece of muslin. Skin and bone as carefully as possible. Roll each sardine in a thin wafer of smoked salmon. Set a layer of aspic jelly in the bottom of a shallow dish large enough to take all the rolls. Arrange on top. Cover with a thin layer of more aspic about to set. When set and chilled, cut each roll out neatly, with an edge of aspic. Serve each one in a paper case.

Crevettes Place a prawn or one or two shrimps, moistened mayonnaise, lightened with a little whipped cream in a puff cracknel. Allow one per person.

Crevettes Andre'

B pint shelled shrimps

14 tablespoonfuls butter

2

2 I

tablespoonfuls Madeira cup cream egg yolk

teaspoonful lemon juice teaspoonful flour Salt to taste Cayenne to taste

4

Melt 3 tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan. Add shrimps. Cook 3 minutes. Stir in lemon

72

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

juice, cayenne, salt and cook I minute. Remove shrimps. Melt remainder of butter in a chafing-dish. Stir in flour and cream. Srir till thick. Add egg yolk, slightly beaten, shrimps and wine by degrees. Stir till hot again, but not boiling. Serve in tiny hot puff pastry cases. Decorate each with a tiny sprig of parsley.

Daisies Spread canapb of brown bread, 2 inches in diameter, after toasting, with chilled caviare. Make a daisy in the centre of each, the petals of hard-boiled egg-white and the centres of sieved hard-boiled egg yolks.

Delices de Lido Line 10 small boat moulds with short crust. Prick with a fork. Bake till crisp and golden. Brush bottom of each with a little anchovy paste. Measure 3 tablespoonfuls of cream into a saucepan. Add 2 eggs, salt and white pepper to taste. Stir till thick. Pile into boats. Top each with a teaspoonful of minced smoked salmon, heated over boiling water in a double boiler. The moulds should be kept hot while buttering egg.

HOW TO GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY

71

Delices de Shan~rock Make and bake boats as for " Delices de Lido," but do not brush with anchovy paste. Fill boats with bloater cream, made by mixing bloater paste to a cream with thick cream and seasoning it to taste with paprika. Pipe filling into boats.

Indian Croute~ I dessertspoonful Madeira 3 egg yolks Cayenne to taste

I

oz. butter teaspoonfuls anchovy essence

I&

Cut 3 slices of stale bread each inch thick. Cut into strips 2 inch wide and 2 inches long. Drop egg yolks into a basin. Beat. Stir in anchovy essence and Madeira. Dip bread fingers in mixture. Fry at once in a little smoking hot butter. Drain well. Place in the oven for a minute while you melt I oz. of butter till smoking hot, and scramble remainder of mixture with it. When set, remove fingers from oven, and divide the scramble between them. Dust with cayenne, and serve a t once.

Olivettes Remove rind from I or 2 rashers of green bacon, Cut bacon into 2-inch-wide strips.

74

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AJVD PARTY

Wrap an olive in each. Place on grill. Cook quickly till crisp. Serve on a hot dish lined with a lace paper d'oyley. (Bacon must be mild.)

Perits Choux au Parmesan flour gill water egg yolk Seasoning to taste 2 OZ. I I

oz. butter egg I+ tablespoonfuls Parmesan cheese I

1

Measure butter and water into a small saucepan. Sift flour and when liquid boils, stir in flour. Keep stirring constantly, until the mixture shrinks from the sides of pan, leaving them clean. Remove from fire. Cool a little. Stir in egg and egg yolk, beating after each addition. Add grated Parmesan. Season to taste with salt and cayenne. Mix well. Chill. Arrange teaspoonfuls of paste in buttered balcing tins. Brush with beaten egg. Sprinkle with Parmesan. Bake in a moderate oven for 30 minutes. Serve piping hot. Enough for 6 persons.

Fry, skin and pound petit Parisienne or Chipolata sausages in a mortar with grated Parmesan, cayenne, and chopped parsley to taste. Spread on diamonds or ovals of hot buttered toast. Place a fried mushroom on

E-IOW T O GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY the top of each. once.

7, v5

Neat in oven. Serve at

Savoury Eclairs

k

5

P'Int water OZ. flour

3

lb. butter

Measure water and butter into a saucepan. Bring to the boil. Stir in flour. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon until quite smooth, then remove from fire. When cold, beat in the eggs, one at a time. Stir till thick and smooth, then force out on to a bak'ing sheet in +inch strips. Brush with a beaten egg. Bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. When ready, slit each in the side and fill with one of the following : ( I ) Mayonnaise of " thon." (a) Slightly whipped cream, seasoned to .taste with cayenne and anchovy paste, beaten till soft with a spoon. Serve cold. (3) Measure 3 OZ. grated cheese into a saucepan. Add 2 egg yolks, mustard and white pepper to taste, and 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of cream. Stir till thick. Use at once. Enough filling for I 2 eclairs.

Savoury fleedles I I

2

oz. grated Parmesan gill milk eggs

I

2

oz. butter tablespoonfnls flout

Measure butter and milk into a saucepan. Bring to the boil. Sift flour and stir in F

76

MADEIRA FOR S A U C E AND PARTY

very quickly. Keep stirring until mixture shrinks from sides of pan. Remove from fire. Cool, then beat in eggs one at a time. Stir in cheese, and salt and cayenne to taste. Chill. Rub mixture through a colander into smoking hot fat. Fry till crisp and dry. Serve piping hot sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese.

Savoul;v Thoughts ( I ) Tiny tartlets of baked shortcrust filled with a picked prawn, heated in butter, and seasoned to taste with pepper and nutmeg. Decorate with paprika and chopped parsley. (2) Small pieces of fresh chicken liver, each rolled in a wafer of bacon, grilled on a skewer and served on canap6 of buttered toast. (3) Pheasant or guinea-fowl livers prepared as above. (4) Baked canap6 of shortcrust, spread first with bloater cream, then with a wafer of smoked salmon, and garnished with a piping of mayonnaise, or cress butter.

Savoury T o o t h Wrap large stuffed olives each in a wafer slice of mild bacon. Skewer and grill or crisp in oven. Serve in a hot dish garnished with potato crisps or lattice potatoes.

HOW 10 GIVE A MA4DEZRA PARTY

77

Shrimj Fritters 2 gills picked shrimps Grated Parmesan cheese Pepper to taste

2 gills frying batter Paprika and salt to taste

Measure batter into a basin. Stir in shrimps and seasoning to taste. Drop by small spoonfuls into a shallow saucepan containing I inch depth of smoking hot butter. Fry till brown on both sides. Serve piping hot in pastry cases. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

Smoked Salmon Crownr Place thin rounds of smoked salmon on small rounds of buttered toast or fried bread. Pipe mayonnaise round the edge of each canapk. Pile up centres with a teaspoonful of minced hard-boiled egg, moistened with mayonnaise. Place half a stuffed olive in the centre of each.

Smoked Salmon Fingers Fry fingers of bread 3 inches long, $ inch broad by & inch thick, in butter till pale golden. Cool. Cream a tablespoonful of butter. Season to taste with pcpper and salt. Mix in enough minced mustard and cress to make butter a pretty green. Spread

78

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

fingers with the butter. Cover with a wafer of smoked salmon, cut to fit the fingers. Decorate with a piping of whipped cream seasoned to taste with minced chives.

Strasbourg Mille-Feuilles Roll ,t lb. puff pastry out on a lightlyfloured board to inch thicirness. Cut into oblongs I inch wide and 2 inches long. Prick with a fork. Place on a baking sheet. Bake in a quick oven till puffy and pale gold. Remove to a cake rack. Cool. Spread each with purke de foie gras, and arrange in sets of three sandwiched together. Carefully spread the top layer of each with a little aspic jelly about to set. Decorate with ornaments of pimento or truffle.

+

Tit Bits de Cannes Spread small croutons of fried bread or baked flaky pastry with a layer of caviare. Sprinkle caviare lightly with hard-boiled eggyolks put through a sieve. Place a tiny heap of minced cucumber, seasoned to taste with lemon juice, pepper and paprika in the centre. York Canupis 3

4

OZ. boiled York ham teaspoonful minced parsley

tablespoonfuls butter oz. ox tongue Pepper, cayenne, paprika

2 I

HOW T O GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY

79

Mince ham and tongue. Mix to a paste with butter and parsley. Season to taste with pepper, cayenne and paprika. Fry rings of bread in deep smoking hot fat till crisp and golden. Spread with the mixture. Sprinkle with minced gherkin.

To Serve Relishes ( I ) Arrange all hot canap6, pastry titbits and other savouries which should be served piping hot, in a hot muffineer or an entr6e dish with boiling water below. Line dish with a lace paper mat. (2) If you have a large hot plate, the hot relishes can be placed in fire-proof glass plates, lined with a lace mat, straight on to the hot plate. (3) Arrange all cold relishes in attractive cut-glass plates to match your colour scheme. Line them with nasturtium leaves, fig leaves or lace paper d'oyleys.

To Garnish Hot and Cold Relishes ( I ) Decorate with sprigs of parsley or chervil. Cover cold with a layer of mustard and cress. Dredge hot, when no garnish is stated, with paprika, minced chives or parsley.

80

MADEIRA FOR SAlJCE AND PARTY SANDWICHES

Some people prefer to nibble a savoury sandwich at a Madeira party, so be sure to provide for this taste. Only, don't be content to serve nothing but sandwiches made with white bread and butter. Use brown bread cases, bridge rolls, wafers of flaky pastry, unsweetened biscuits, slices of toast split in two, etc., as well. Now let me give you a list of simple fillings suitable for brown bread :-

Brown Bread Sandwich Fillings ( I ) Po~nmelor any cream cheese, moistened cream or mayonnaise, pepped with Yorkshire Relish or Worcester sauce, and mixed with chopped walnuts to taste. (2) Minced, cold game, moistened mayonnaise and mixed with a little minced mango chutney. (3) Lactic cheese mixed with minced spring onions or chives and chopped pimento to taste. One or two chopped walnuts or olives can be added, if liked. (4) Cream cheese, moistened cream, seasoned to taste, and mixed with a little shredded celery. (5) Minced, smoked salmon, mixed with minced onion or chives and sharpened lemon juice.

HOW TO GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY

81

(6) Peeled chopped mushrooms fried in butter, seasoned with nutmeg or ground mace, and used cold. [Note.-lf liked, these sandwiches can be made with one slice of brown bread and one slice of white bread.] White Bread Sandwich Fillings ( I ) Creamed butter mixed with watercress to taste, then seasoned with salt and paprika. Spread bread with this butter, then sandwich with caviare sharpened lemon juice. ( 2 ) Cut into small rounds and put together with a slice of devilled egg and chopped lettuce. (3) Mix chopped banana to taste with mayonnaise and chopped walnuts. (4) Diced cold chicken, moistened mayonnaise, and put together with mustard and cress. Serve with fork. (5) Equal quantity of diced ham and chicken, turkey or veal ditto. (6) 4 lb. tomatoes, scalded, peeled and chopped, mixed with 6 minced anchovy fillets and mustard and cress, cayenne pepper and whipped cream to taste.

Split Toast Fillings ( I ) Mayonnaise of" thon " flavoured with a little minced pimento, and used with watercress or chopped lettuce.

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AfiD PARTY

82

(2) Sliced chicken breast, sliced peeled tomatoes, heart of lettuce leaves and wafers of bacon, moistened with mayonnaise and put in layers. The bacon should be fried. All the other ingredients are cold. (3) If a substantial sandwich is wanted, allow I beaten egg, 2 tablespoonfuls lightlychopped fried bacon, aud seasoning to taste. Scramble in a little hot bacon fat till thick. Use with lettuce leaves. 4) Sliced peeIed mushroam, fried in butter, lig tly seasoned grated nutmeg, and mustard and cress. (5) Liver sausage or pat6 and lettuce scraped with mayonnaise. (6) Home-made salmon and shrimp paste, put together with thin, crisp slices of cucumber.

b

Odd Sandwiches ( I ) Bridge rolls, split, buttered and put together with minced York ham, or tongue, or equal quantity of both, and cress, or homemade liver paste, and shredded celery m.oistened mayonnaise. (2) Thin slices of white bread and butter, rolled round asparagus tips. Put a tiny tuft of mustard and cress at each end of tip before rolling up. (3) Thin brown bread and butter, each slice rolled after spreading thinly with anchovy

HOW T O GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY

82

paste, round a row of caviare or of chopped shrimps and watercress. [Note.-To make rolls keep their figure, fasten with a toothpick as soon as made. Serve, after removing toothpicks, on a shallow cut-glass dish lined with mustard and cress.] (4) Tiny rolls, the size of half a crown, of flaky. pastry, filled with purie au foie gras. (5) Chopped olives and anchovy moistened mayonnaise, or any devil mixture made up in tiny rounds of flaky pastry, like mince pies. (6) Tiny pastry horns filled with cream cheese, Gervais or Pommel, moistened with cream till creamy and flavoured with paprika and salt to taste. Hints on Preparing Sandwiches

(I) Mix cold fillings before cutting bread. (2) Mix hot fillings and keep hot in the top of a double boiler, over boiling water, while preparing bread or toast. (3) Use bread a day old, and fresh bridge rolls when rolls are wanted. (4) Don't make toast for toast sandwiches until sandwiches are required. (5) To make a perfect Club sandwich for 6 persons, allow 3 thin slices of bread, freshly toasted, per person. If preferred, only toast the sides of bread to be placed next to filling. Allow 2 cupful of mayonnaise, 12 wafers of

84

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

grilled bacon, 4 scalded, chilled, thinly-sliced and seasoned tomatoes and 2 leaves of heart of lettuce per person. Place in following order ingredient$ for each sandwich-I slice of toast, or half toast, lettuce leaf, spread thinly with mayonnaise, r slices of chicken breast. Cover with another slice of toast. Repeat lettuce and mayonnaise, and cover with bacon, then tomato. Arrange on top third s!ice of toast. Cut sandwich into triangles. Serve on individual plates garnished with slices of stuffed olive and radish roses. (6) If sandwiches must be made some time before they are required, wrap closely in waxed paper to keep them moist. (7) The quickest way to make a sandwich is to use a sandwich loaf. Remove the crust. Cut loaf in two, and then slice the bread the long way of the loaf. Butter, spread with filling, cover and cut into fancy shapes with a biscuit cutter. (8) Always beat butter to a cream before buttering sandwich bread. (g) If any savoury sandwich is wanted, add : (a) A tablespoonful of water and r tablespoonful of minced chives to creamed butter. (6) Flavour butter to taste with watercress, lemon juice, or any piquant sauce. (c) When filling is to be fishy, flavour butter only with lemon juice and paprika, using r teaspoonfuls of lemon juice to $ lb. of butter, and diluting lemon juice with a tablespoonful

HOW 70 GIVE A MADEIRA PARTY

8.5

of cold water. (d) When a cold game, meat or poultry filling is to be used, mix with creamed butter, mashed, canned pimentoes or minced pounded olives, to taste, and also lemon juice or tarragon vinegar. All flavoured butters can he kept for a week or ten days if put up in small potted meat jars, tightly covered, and stored in the refrigerator or ice-box. T o Serve Sandwiches Cold.-Arrange on a sandwich dish, oblong or oval, or in a cut-glass plate, or in a silver entrie dish, lined in each case with a lace paper d'oyley, unless otherwise stated. Hot.-Place in a muffineer, or entrke dish, lined with a lace paper d'oyley, with boiling water below. Serve with salad knife and fork.

To Garnish Sandwiches Sprinkle with mustard and cress. Ring with radish roses. (3) Decorate with sprigs of parsley, chervil or young celery tips. (4) Pile up in a large heart of lettuce with centre leaves removed, and tie a rubber ring round leaves immediately after making sandwiches and arranging them in heart. (I) (2)

-

86

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

Stand 4 an hour before removing the rubber, so that the leaves will keep their place. I always stand this kind of sandwich in the refrigerator. Choose a short heart of cabbage lettuce, not the cos variety.

MADEIRA I N T H E KITCHEN MANY wines are most helpful in cooking, but none more than Madeira, a wine with a more lasting as well as a more pronounced flavour than most. Even during the postVictorian period, when both Sherry and Madeira went out of fashion for a time, the reputation of the Madeira Sauce, the famous Sauce Maddre, was never in doubt. Of course, nobody in his or her senses will use priceless old Madeira for cooking ; it is not a question of price, but of common sense. Not only is a young wine very much cheaper, but it is also more suitable. Cooking Madeira is the cheapest because it is the youngest of all marketed Madeira wines, but it is Madeira. There are some unholy mixtures, unfortunately, which are sold under the name of cooking Madeira ; they cost less and are worthless. They are made up of raw spirit and prune juice, or furniture polish. Avoid them. If your cooking is not exactly first class, you really should have the right Madeira to help your cooking. If your 87

88

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

cooking is of the best, you cannot run the risk of spoiling it completely by faked Madeira.

When making savoury sauces, remember that a little Madeira, added a t the last moment, improves a cream sauce to be served with veal, fried rabbit or creamed game, and gravy to accompany roast venison or venison steaks, grilled and fried beef steaks, and plainly-kied escallops of veal.

a . I.

Madeira Suuce (Sauce Maddre)

oz. butter OZ. onions I 1 oz. flour I glassful Madeira teaspoonful meat glaze Salt

2

4

+

iablespoonful minced gherkin 4 oz. mushrooms pint white wine Pepper I

Melt butter till smoking hot. Add minced onions. Stir till brown, then stir i n flour. Stir till dark brown, then whisk in wine by degrees. Whisk till thick. Strain. Add chopped gherkins and chopped peeled mushrooms. Simmer for I o minutes, stirring. occasionally. Stir in meat glaze, Madeira, salt and pepper to taste. Serve in a hot sauceboat, or as suggested in entrie recipes.

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

No. I I

2.

89

Madeira Sauce (Sauce Madkre)

tablespoonful Aour gill meat or vegetable stock

I I

tablespoonf~~l butter gill Madeira

Melt butter in a saucepan. Stir in flour. When frothy, stir in stock and Madeira. Stir till boiling. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cook for a moment or two. Serve with any hot ham or spinach dish. Sometines I substitute boiling cream for half the stock, but then the Madeira must be stirred in very slowly.

Chestnut Sauce (Sauce aux Marrons) cupful boiled, chopped chestnuts & onion 3 tablespoonfuls flour I teaspoonful salt 6 peppercorns I

Melt

3 tablespoonfuls Madeira 3 tablespoonfuls butter I carrot 14 cupfill beef stock I sprig parsley 4 bay-leaf

tablespoonfuls of the butter in Add sliced carrot and onion. Fry 5 minutes. Stir in flour. Cook till well browned, then add stock by degrees, stirring all the time. When boiling, add parsley, salt, bay-leaf and peppercorns. Simmer 20 minutes. Strain. Stir in wine, remainder of butter and chestnuts. Serve with fried or grilled beef or steaks or mutton chops. 2

a frying pan.

go

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY Oyster and Shrimp Sauce (Sauce de Poisson)

6 oysters

4 gill Madeira r tablespoonful clarified butter 2 gill Grave teaspoonful salt Cayenne to taste

6 shrimps 6 small mushrooms I tablespoonful flour I: gill fish gravy I egg yolk Juice of 2 lemon

Make butter smoking hot. Stir in flour, and, when frothy, stir in by degrees Grave, then the fish gravy-stock in which any fish is cooked. Bring to boil, stirring constantly, and boil, stirring for 10 minutes. Remove pan from fire. Stir in egg yolk, mixed with lemon juice, cayenne and salt. Keep stirring over a slow heat, preferably over hot water, until thick, but don't allow to boil. Pour into a strainer lined with muslin. Strain into another saucepan. Meanwhile, steam and slice mushrooms, place in a saucepan with oysters, boiled or canned shrimps and Madeira. If liked, add one or two slices of truffle. Boil for 5 minutes. Stir in strained sauce. Stir gently over a slow heat for 4 minutes, then pour over boiled or steamed fish.

Wzld Fowl Sauce (Sauce Bigarade) I

oz. butter

g pint wild fowl stock I teaspoonful castor sugar Pepper

&

tablespoonful flour oranges I tablespoonful Madeira Salt

2

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

91

Melt butter in a saucepan. Stir in flour, stock, strained orange juice, and grated orange rind, boiled for 5 minutes, then well drained. Bring to boil, stirring rapidly, then add Madeira by degrees, 3 drops of tabasco and Chili vinegar, sugar, and pepper and salt to taste.

C a r s Head Sauce (Sauce T t t e de Veau) 4 oz. butter 2 sprig^ chopped parsley I

4 I I

sprig thyme lean ham gill stock pint Madeira OZ.

4 shallots $ lb. mushrooms sprig marjoram large onions 3 tablespoonfuls flour Lemon juice and cayenne I

2

Melt butter in a saucepan. Add herbs, chopped, onions, shallots, mushrooms, finelyminced ham, and calf's head stock. Cover and simmer for I hour. Draw pan to side of fire. Stir in flour. Keep stirring for a minute or two. Add Madeira and more stock as required. Stir till boiling ; boil 5 minutes. Put through a strainer. Rc-heat and flavour to taste with lemon juice and cayenne. Serve with boiled calf's head.

Brown Italian Sauce (Sauce italienne) pint rich beef stock rnedium onions lb. minced ham 2 OZ. minced mushrooms Lemon juice I

2

t

glasses Madeira oz. butter teaspoonful minced parsley Salt, pepper 2 I I

Melt butter in a saucepan. Stir in peeled, G

92

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

sliced onions. Add stock, ham, mushrooms, Madeira, parsley, lemon juice, .pepper and salt to taste. Stir till boiling. Boll 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Strain into a hot sauceboat, and serve at once.

Mushroom Sauce (Sauce aux Champignons) lb. mushrooms

I

3 pint cream

sprigs parsley Cayenne and salt to taste

2

a I I I

butter glassful Madeira teaspoonful flour blade mace 02.

Wash and peel mushrooms. Place in a fireproof dish. Sprinkle with salt and flour. Dab with butter. Pour over cream and Madeira. Add parsley, mace and cayenne. Bake for 15 minutes in a quick oven. Remove parsley and mace. Pour over boiled poultry.

Vegetable Madeira Sauce (Sauce Jardinidre) head fennel inch horseradish I small onion 1 egg Juice of I lemon I bundle sea kale I

2

glassfuls Madeira glasses cream I ~lassfulmelted aspic jelfy Seasoning to taste

2 2

Prepare and boil fennel and sea kale in water to cover, till tender. Strain and drain

MADEIRA IN THE KITCIIEX

93

till quite dry. Turn on to a chopping board. Chop finely with horseradish and onion. Turn into a fireproof dish, then season to taste with pepper and salt. Break egg into a basin. Stir in cream, aspic, Madeira and lemon juice by degrees. Bring to boiling point. Add vegetables. Toss in sauce. Serve with boiled or steamed halibut, salmon, turbot or trout.

Wine Sauce (Sauce au Vin) 2

tablespoonfuls Madeira

I

1

egg

&

cupful icing sugar cupful butter

Beat butter to a cream in a basin. Stir in sugar by degrees, well-beaten egg, and Madeira. Turn into the top of a double boiler. Whisk over hot water till thick. Serve with plum pudding or strawberries.

Sweet Madei~aSauce (Sauce Madire) 3 tablespoonfuls Madeira I

cupful icing sugar

+ cupful butter

Grated nutmeg to taste

Beat butter to a cream. Stir in sifted sugar and wine by degrees. Pile into a glass dish. Sprinkle with grated nutmeg. Chill, and serve with plum pudding.

-94

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY SOUPS

Any clear soup can be flavoured with Madeira or Malmsey. Sometimes I flavour giblet soup, moclr turtle soup and cream of corn with a little Malmsey. Be careful not to add too much. I allow I teaspoonful per portion, just before serving. Allow I& gills of soup per person.

Giblet Soup (Potage dc Gibelettes) q sets chicken, duck or

guinea-fowl giblets 4 chopped shallots 2 chopped onions I pint Madeira Juice g orange I sprig marjoram

quarts rich stock 4 oz. butter 4 oz. green bacon 2 sprigs panley Juice 4 lemon I sprig thyme Cayenne pepper 29

Scald giblets. Skin feet. Place in a saucepan. Bring to boil. Throw into cold water. Wash, place in a saucepan. Add 2 quarts of the stock. Cover, and bring slowly to boiling point. Cook till tender. Meanwhile, melt half the butter in a stewpan. Add onion, shallots, minced bacon, washed parsley, marjoram and thyme, and remainder of stock. Cover and simmer for I hour. Skim carefully. Strain into saucepan. Strain in giblet stock. Add remainder of butter, kneaded into a ball with flour. Stir till

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

95

-

boiling. Boil 5 minutes. Remove from fire. Add orange and lemon juice, and Madeira by degrees, stirring all the time. Return pan to fire. Add a lump of sugar, salt to taste, and a dash of cayenne pepper. Stir till hot, but not boiling. Serve a t once. Enough for a dinner party of 14 persons.

Mock Turtle Soup (Potage Fausse Tortue)

+ calf's head

carrot I turnip (medium) 3 OZ. flour I gill Madeira I bay leaf I sprig parsley I blade mace I

q quarts water medium onions lb. lean bacon 2 oz. butter 12 peppercorns 2 cloves lemon

+ 2

+

Clean and remove brains, and bones. Scald head. Place in a saucepan. Chop and add bones. Cover with the water, or stock if you have it. Bring to boiling point. Add a teaspoonful of salt. Skim well. Cover, and simmer for 3H hours. Strain off stock into a basin. Prepare and chop carrot, onion, turnip, and a stalk of celery, if you have it. Chop bacon. Melt butter in a saucepan. Add prepared vegetables, bacon, cloves, peppercorns, mace and bay leaf. Fry, stirring fiquently for ro minutes. Add flour. Stir till brown. Moisten with the strained stock, stirring constantly, till the liquid comes to

96

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND P A R T Y --

the boil. Simmer for 10 minutcs. Add Madeira, lemon juice, pepper and salt to taste, and celery salt if celery stalk is not available, and some chopped calf's head meat. Serve garnished with egg, or liver balls, poached in the soup. Sometimes I substitute tlny dumplings. Enough for 12 persons.

Cleur htock 71lrtle Soup (Consommd Fuusse Tortue)

+ calf's head

mcdium carrot I stalk celery q quarts cliic!ren or veal stock bay leaf 12 peppercorns I

+

glass Madeira medium onion I lb. shin of beef 3 egg whites with shells I sprig parsley Sal! to taste I I

Clean, and remove brains and bones from head. Scald. Chop meat and place with bones in a saucepan. Add stock. Bring to boiling point. Skim well. Cover and simmer 3 hours. Strain off stock into a basin. Leave till cold, then carefuily remove fat. Prepare and slice vegetables. Place in a saucepan. Add stock, parsley, bay leaf and peppercorns. Mince beef. Stir in a tablespoonful of cold water. Add to stock with the crushed shells and whislred egg-whites. Beat with an egg beater over the fire till boiling. Draw pan to side. Simmer very gently tor 20 minutes. Stir in Madeira, and salt and pepper to taste. Add a little celery salt if there is no celery stalk

l l

MADEIRA I f l THE KITCHEN

a7

available. Cook slowly for 5 minutes. Strain through a jelly bag. Reheat. Serve at once. Enough for 1 2 persons.

Clear Game Soup (Consomme' Demidof) glassful Madeira pheasant or 2 partridges a tomatoes I blade mace I I

2

quarts consomm6

q artichoke bottoms

Pepper and salt to taste

Roast pheasant or partridges in the usual way until nicely browned. Place in saucepan with mace, consommk and tomatoes. Cover and simmer gently for I hour. Remove pheasant or partridges. Carefully take out the fillets. Roil the artichoke bottoms. Drain well. Cut both pheasant fillets or partridge fillets and bottoms into small strips. Place in a soup tureen. Strain soup through a jelly bag. Bring again to boiling point. Season. Stir in Madeira. Simmer 10 minutes. Pour over garnish. Enough for 10 persons. EGG DISHES

If you like to serve egg dishes occasionally in place of fish, try to get away from the stereotyped ceufs en cocotte and ceufs sur le plat. Here are one or two ideas for simple egg dishes transformed into exciting dishes by the addition of Madeira :

q8

MADEIRA FOR SACICE AA%) PARTY Fried Eggs with Chicken Livers ( a u f s & L'Africaine)

6 chicken livers tablespoonful butter gill tomato sauce Salt I

12 eggs 2 tablespoonfuls

Madeira

gill demi-glace White pepper

Melt butter in a frying pan. Add chicken livers, washed and chopped. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Fry for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain off the butter. Pour Madeira, tomato sauce, and demi-glace into pan. Simmer for 5 minutes. Melt a walnut of butter in another frying pan. Crack in 2 eggs. Season to taste with a saltspoonful of salt and white pepper and paprika. Fry 3 minutes. Slip on to a large flat. hot dish, cover and keep warm while you fry five more sets of eggs in the same way. Cover with the liver mixture. Serve at once with toast and butter. Enough for 6 persons.

Boston Eggs (CEufs Boston) 6 eggs I tablespoonful flour I gill cream I tablespoonful Madeira teaspoonful Worcester sauce t oz. minced boiled ham

4

tablespoonful melted butter tablespoonful minced pimiento 2 lb. crab meat 3 large mushrooms Pepper and salt

MADEIRA IZV THE KITCHEN

99

Stir flour into melted butter, then cook for a minute, stirring constantly. Add pimiento and cream. Stir till boiling. Add crab meat, Madeira, peeled and parboiled chopped mushrooms, Worcester sauce, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Simmer for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Turn into a buttered fireproof dish. Crack eggs on top. Season to taste with pepper and salt. Sprinkle with minced ham. Pour a teaspoonful of cream over each yolk. Bake in a quick oven for 6 minutes. Enough for 3 or 6 persons.

You can make the simplest fish dish taste sophisticated with the addition of a little Madeira. Sometimes I add a tablespoonful or two to a fireproof dish in which I mean to cook any filleted fish. Again, 1 often flavour a creamy sauce for fish, or creamed fish, to taste with Madeira.

Devilled Crab (Crabes Diablds) cupful chopped crab meat 2 tablespoonfuls butter 2 egg yolks cupful chicken stock Salt, pepper, and paprika to taste I

a

tablespoonfuls Madeira tablespoonfuls flour f cupful mincrd peeled mushrooms I teaspoonful minced parsley 2 2

Melt butter in a saucepan

Stir in flour,

IOO

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

and, when frothy, stir in stock. Keep stirring till smooth and boiling. Add egg-yolks, pepper, salt and paprika to taste, crab meat and mushrooms. Cook 3 minutes. Stir in parsley and Madeira. Cool. Pile into buttered ramekins or small crab shells, rounding mixture off at the edges. Sprinkle with stale breadcrumbs. Dab with one or two tiny pats of butter. Decorate with a fork. Bake in a moderate oven until golden. Serve each garnished with a sprig of parsley. Enough for 2 or 3 persons.

Fillets o f Brill with Indian Sauce (Filets de Barbue d I'lndienne) I

medium-sized brill

I

gill Madeira

4 oz. rice

n tablespoonfuls flour

3 OZ. butter Salt, pepper and paprika to taste

2

4

teaspoonfuls curry powder pint tomato sauce

Remove dark skin from brill, fillet, and cut each strip into neat pieces. Mix flour and curry powder on a plate. Stir in salt and pepper to taste. Dip fish into seasoned flour. Melt 2 oz. of butter in a frying pan. When smoking hot, fry the fillets till golden on both sides. Meanwhile, let rice he boiling in salted water. When tender, drain off water in a colander, hold under the cold tap for a moment or two, spread out on a flat dish

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

IOI

and place in a cool oven to dry and reheat. Turn occasionally till ready, then make into a bed on a hot dish. Arrange fillets, overlapping on bed, and slip into oven. Drain butter from frying pan. Stir in Madeira and tomato sauce. Cook quickly until sauce thickens to taste. Season to taste with salt, pepper, paprika and curry powder. Add remainder of butter, and pour over fish. Enough for 7 persons.

Lobster Newburg (Homard JVewburg) 3 gills chopped lobster

14 gills Madeira

tablespoonful butter 2 egg. yolks Salt and pepper to taste

I

I

I

cupful cream truffle

Cut the cooked lobster into I-inch squares before measuring. Melt the butter in a chafing dish or a n enamel lined pan. Stir in lobster, chopped truffle, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in Madeira, and cook for 3 minutes, still stirring. Beat egg-yolks. Stir in cream. Add to lobster mixture, with salt and pepper to taste. Stir until mixture thickens. Serve, either in a circle of boiled rice, on canapks of pastry or fried bread, or accompanied by oatcakes and butter. Enough for q persons.

102

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AM3 PARTY

Stemtd Lobster (Homard 4Sautt!au Mudire) 2

I-lb. lobsters

I+ I+

tablespoonfuls flour tablespoonfuls Madeira gill milk

+ teaspoonful paprika 2

tablespoonfuls butter teaspoonful grated nutmeg I gill cream Salt to taste I&

2

Cut lobster meat in $-inch pieces. Melt butter. Add lobster, salt, paprika and nutmeg. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Sprinkle with flour. Stir well, and cook for I minute. Add Madeira and cream mixed with the milk. Cook slowly, still stirring, for 10 minutes. Pour into a hot dish. Serve at once. Enough for 6 persons.

Red Mullet with Madeira Sauce (Rougets Maddre) 3 red mullets

& gill white fish stock

gill Madeira Lemon juice to taste

Salt and pepper

Clean and wash mullet, then split them down the back. Remove fillets. Melt butter in a baking tin, and arrange fillets in it side by side. Sprinkle with pepper, salt and lemon juice to taste, wine and stock. Cover with a buttered paper. Bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Remove paper. Arrange fillets on a hot dish. Skim fat from

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEPaJ

roq

liquor in pan. Add 4 teaspoonful of minced parsley to liquor, and pour over fish. Enough for 6 persons.

2

& I

red mullrts teaspoonful anchovy sauce teaspoonful minced parsley shallot

tablespoonful butter teaspoonful tomato sauce r tablespoonful chopped mushrooms I gill Madeira I I

Clean, wash and arrange mullets in a buttered baking dish, side by side. Mix the sauces with the melted butter, and pour over fish. Bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. When half done, sprinlrle in parsIey, minced shallot and mushrooms. Add Madeira. Continue to cook for 10 minutes, basting frequently, then gently remove fillets of mullet, flake, and stir into sauce. Serve on croutes of toast. Enough for 4 persons.

Maryland Oysters (Huttres Maryland) dozen oysters gill Becharnel sauce L small glassful Madeira Cayenne to taste

2

I+

I

ables spoonful butter

I

teaspoonful minced parsley

& lemon

Drain oysters well. Place in the top of a double boiler with the butter. Cook for

-

104 MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

2 minutes till the edges curl. Add Madeira and cayenne. Toss well. Stir in sauce and, when piping hot, squeeze in strained lemon juice and add parsley. Turn into a hot dish. Place a pat or two of butter on top. Serve at once. Enough for 6 persons.

Baked Salmon (Saumon en Cocotte) lb. salmon r gill Madeira I teaspoonful minced pimento Salt and pepper to taste I$

oz. butter tomato r teaspoonful minced parsley

I+ I

Melt butter in a sauccpan. Stir in salt, pepper, parsley, Madeira and tomato chopped and squeezed through a strainer. Place salmon in a fireproof dish. Sprinkle with pimento, then pour over sauce. Bake, basting frequently, for 20 minutes. Turn and bake for 40 minutes. Serve with new potatoes. Enough for 4 to 6 persons.

'<

M E A T AND

XADEIRA "

No one who likes well-flavoured ragouts, braised meat, and ox tail, or dishes of ham and sweetbreads, can afford to ignore Madeira. I like its flavour in plain meat dishes. I like it in dishes fit for the gourmet. Let me introduce you to " Meat and Madeira " :

,

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

105

Fillets of Beef with Madeira Sauce (Filets de Batif, Madhe) I + lb. fillet of beef I tablespoonful cream

g pint Madeira sauce 2

3 oz. butter

gills cooked French beans

Pepper and salt to taste

Cut fillet into eight slices $-inch thick. Beat slightly on a chopping board. Trim all to same shape, removing skin and gristle. Season to taste with pepper and paprika, if liked. Melt 2 oz. of the butter in a frying pan. Add fillets. Fry quickly till brown on each side. Season with salt. Melt remainder of butter in a saucepan. Add beans, pepper and salt to taste and cream. Cover and heat for a moment or two. Arrange a border of mashed potatoes in a circle on a hot dish. Place fillets round, overlapping sIightIy. Fill centre with beans. Brush fillets with melted meat glaze. Pour sauce round. Enough for 8 persons.

Braised Fillet o f Beef (Filets de BauJ Braist au Madkre)

14 lb. fillet of beef

r medium onions

pints stock teaspoonful potato Rour carrots

24 I

2

3 rashers fat bacon

4

pint Madeira sprig thyme Pepper and salt to taste I sprig parsley I

Lard, or buy the fillet larded. Grease the bottom of a stewpan with dripping. Remove

106 MA4DEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY rind from bacon. Chop bacon, and place in the bottom of pan. Prepare and slice onion and carrots. Place on bacon with a sprig of parsley and thyme, and half a bay leaf. Lay the fillet on top. Moisten with $ pint of stock. Place pan on fire. Bring to the boil. Cover, and cook slowly until the meat and vegetables are browned and the liquid has almost boiled away. Add I gill of Madei~aand a quart of stock. Cover. Simmer gently for 18 hours. Remove cover. Place pan in a hot oven, so be sure to have a short-handled stewing-pan. Cook for I hour till beef is tender, basting frequently with the gravy. When tender, remove to a hot dish. Keep hot while you strain gravy. Stand for a moment or two, then sk'im off grease. Bring gravy to boiling point. Mix potato flour gradually with remainder of Madeira till smooth. Stir into the boiling gravy. Cook for a moment or two, then pour a little over the meat, and serve remainder in sauceboat. Enough for 8 persons.

Fried Fillets of Beef with Marrow (Filets de Beuj' ic la Moelle)

14 lb. fillet of beef tablespoonful butter pint brown stock Salt and pepper to taste I

I

2

marrow bone tablespoonfuls flour gill Madeira

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

107

Cut fillet into inch-thick slices. Trim into equal-sized rounds. Season with pepper. Grill for 2 minutes on each side. Salt and grill for I minute on each side. Cut the marrow from bones into g inch slices. Drop into boiling stock, and poach. Lay a poached marrow on each fillet. Arrange on a hot dish. Place butter and flour in pan. Stir till flour froths, then gradually stir in stock. Stir till boiling. Season to taste with salt, pepper and Madeira, and pour round meat. Enough for 8 persons.

Fillets of Beef with Trufles (Filets de Bduf aux Trufes)

14 lb. fillet of beef pint rich gravy I tablespoonful flour 8 fried croutons

2 OX.

4 I I

butter

pint Madeira lemon txuffle

Cut 8 croutons of bread, 4 inch thick and 54. inches round. Cut the fillet into 8 slices I inch thick, and between 4 and 5 inches round. Trim neatly, and pepper to taste. Melt butter till smoking hot. Fry for 3 minutes on each side. Salt to taste, and fry for another minute on each side. Stir flour into butter in pan. When frothy, stir in gravy. Add Madeira and stir till boiling, then add sliced truffle, and cook till sauce is reduced by half. Reheat tournedos in sauce. Add lemon juice. Fry croutons till crisp and brown. Arrange in a hot dish H

108 MADEIRA F O R SAUCE AND PAR1.Y P -

-

in the shape of a crown. Put a tournedos on top of each. Pour pint of buttered green peas in the centre and sauce round. Enough for 8 persons.

Lamb Cutlets, Foie G a s (Cdtelettes d'Agneau au Foie Gras) 8 lamb cutlets butter 4 OZ. veal forcemeat I tablespoonful cream 2 OZ.

2 2

pint Madeira sauce pint buttered green peas 8 croutons fried bread

Trim and fry cutlets on one side in melted butter for I minute. Cool. Trim croutons to same size as cutlets. Kemove the middle of the croutes with an oval cutter, then fry croutes till golden in the hot butter. Lay a crouton on the cooked side of each cutlet. Fill hole with foie gras. Stir cream into the forcemeat, and pipe round edge of croute. Place in a buttered baking tin. Bake in a slow oven for 7 or 8 minutes. Arrange round a circle of mashed potatoes on a hot dish. Run a cutlet frill on each bone. Pile peas in the centre. Pour sauce round.

Stewed Mutton (Ragoztt de Mouton au Maddre) 3 lb. breast of mutton tablespoonful butter 4 pint consomm.6 12 new potatoes I small turnip Pepper and salt to taste I

gill Madeira tablespoonfuls flour 3 medium carrots 2 medium onions 1 2 mushrooms I

I

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

10s

Cut mutton into 2-inch squares. Wash. Dry in a cloth. Melt butter in a saucepan, and fry meat till brown. Cover, and cook slowly for 5 or 6 minutes while you prepare the vegetables. Slice carrots and turnip, mushrooms, and potatoes. Uncover saucepan. Remove meat. Pour off any fat which has formed on the liquid. Stir in flour. Bring to the boil, then stir in consomme or a good stock. Arrange carrot, turnip, onion, mushrooms and potatoes round. Add Madeira. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and celery salt to taste. Cover, and stew slowly until meat and vegetables are tender. When available, r or 3 chopped stalks of celery can be added. Enough for 8 to 10 persons.

Roast Saddle of Mutton (Szlle de Mouton au Maddre) forerib cut saddle of mutton I small turnip 6 shallots bay leaf 4 gill Madeira q tablespoonfuls tart jelly I h gills tomato juice I

+

2 I I

I

2 I I

or 3 young carrots onion sprig parsley teaspoonful salt tablespoonfuls brandy gill glazed brown sauce tablespoonful melted butter

Remove all fat from the inside of mutton, then the red skin from the top. Fold flanks inside, and tie firmly to a neat shape. Melt I heaped tablespoonful of butter in a large

I 10

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

fireproof dish with a cover. Prepare and slice carrot, turnip, shallots, and onion into butter. Lay saddle on top. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Add bay leaf. Brush with lard. Roast 25 minutes, turning only once. Remove from oven. Add brandy, set fire to it, and baste saddle with the liquid until the flame dies out. Add Madeira, jelly, salt and tomato juice. Return to oven. Roast for 25 minutes. Arrange on a hot dish. Strain sauce into a saucepan. Remove any fat. Boil 5 minutes, then pour over meat. Serve with mashed potatoes and cauliflower polonaise. Enough for 6 persons.

Fried Mutton Chops with Madeira Sauce (Cdtelettes de Mouton au Mudire) 6 tender mutton chops I heaped cupful breadI

crumbs small terrine of foie gras

2 eggs I I

oz. clarified butter truffle pint Madeira sauce

:

Trim and beat the cutlets. Cut a shallow cross in each, and slip in a slice of truffle. Season with pepper and salt to taste. Egg and crumb. Melt the butter in a frying pan. Fry cutlets for 4 minutes on each side. While frying, cut 6 thin slices from a sandwich loaf. Trim and cut into halves. Dip in clarified butter. Bake in a hot oven

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

III

for 4 minutes. Place on a hot dish. Arrange a cutlet on top of each. Cover each with a thin slice of patk, then frill the bones Pour sauce round. Pile up centre with potato straws. Garnish with parsley or watercress. Enough for 6 persons.

Braised York Ham (Jambon $York Braise' azl Madkre) I

York ham

4 onions

bay leaf sprig thyme sprig marjoram I sliced carrot g lb. beef suet I

I I

pint Madeira butter 4 heads celery I sprig parsley I blade mace 2 pints stock I

2 OZ.

Chop suet. Place in a saucepan with the herbs, spices, butter and carrot, sliced celery and onions. Cover with stock. Cover closely and stew for 30 minutes. Turn into a pan large enough to take the ham. Meanwhile put ham to soak overnight in water. Then put to boil in cold water. Cover, and boil 2 0 minutes. Remove from pan. Carefully take off the rind, and trim. Place on vegetable braise. Add Madeira and a quart of stock. Cover closely. Cook very gently in the oven for at least 4 hours. The time depends on the size of the ham. When ready, trim and glaze. If wanted hot, serve with spinach.

I 12

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AJVD PARTY American Braised Ham (Jambon Brais4 d 1'Americainej

4 lb. cut of ham I I

I

I I I

4 2

onion sprig marjoram clove garlic sprig chervil teaspoonful salt pint cider teaspoonful pepper tablespoonfuls vinegar

carrot sprig thyme I sprig parsley I sprig tarragon I clove teaspoonful curry powder 1% gills Madeira I calf's foot I

I

Prepare and slice the carrot and onion into a large pan. Add all the other ingredients, and the calf's foot cut into pieces. Mix well. Cover and stand in a cool place for 6 or 7 hours. Place in a moderate oven. Bake for 23 hours, basting at half time. Remove ham, trim neatly, and place in a large dish. Cover and keep hot. Melt 3 oz. of butter in a saucepan. Stir in I oz. of flour till well blended. Uncover ham pan and add butter and flour, in small portions, stirring constantly till all is incorporated. Boil for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stem I lb. white or Muscatel grapes. Fry them briskly till golden in a tablespoonful of hot butter, lightly tossins them occasionally. Arrange round ham. Strain over ham one-third of the sauce. Serve remainder in a sauce-boat.

MADEIRA ZJV THE KZTCHEAr

112

Stewed Fillet of Veal (Razozit de Veau au Maddre)

4 bottle Madeira 4 medium carrots I clove garlic I sprig thyme I pint stock

5 lb. fillet of veal Spanish onion I head celery I sprig marjoram Pepper and salt to taste I

Ask your butcher to give you the caul with the veal. Place caul in the bottom of a stewpan. Lay veal, dusted with flour, on top. Add sliced onion, garlic, r sprigs of parsley, sliced carrots and chopped celery. If you like well-seasoned veal, add thyme and marjoram. If not, omit it. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add Madeira and stock. Cover meat closely with a round of buttered paper, then with lid. Simmer very slowly for 3 or 4 hours. Remove veal to a hot serving dish. Strain liquor into another saucepan. Reduce or add thickening to taste. Serve in a hot sauce-boat. Garnish veal with forcemeat balls and parsley. Enough for 8 to 10 persons.

Veal Chops with Madeira Sauce (Cdtelettes de Veau au Mudire) 6 tender veal chops

2

carrot I large tomato I stalk celery 4 gill Madeira Pepper and salt to taste

I

I

4 I I

e

tablespoonful^ butter onion pint white stock blade mace teaspoonful grated orange rind

Beat and trim chops. Season to taste with

I 14

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

pepper. Melt half the butter in a frying pan. Brown chops on each side for 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Cook another 3 minutes on each side. Add minced carrot and onion, and chopped, peeled tomato. Cover with stock, then cover pan. Simmer 10 minutes. Melt remainder of butter in another frying pan. Stir in orange rind, minced celery and mace. Cook for 5 minutes. Add I teaspoon flour, stir in Madeira. Mix thoroughly. Pour over the chops. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Uncover. Remove mace. Serve on a hot dish with the sauce and garnish on top. Enough for 6 persons.

Fried Lamb on Croutons (floisettes d'hgneau Louis XIV) 8 noisettes I small Slassful Madeira I oz. butter

8 croutons fried bread 2 or 3 drops meat extract Pepper and salt to taste

Cut the noisettes from loin of lamb, and trim them neatly. Melt butter in a frying pan. Drip noisettes in seasoned flour, and fry on both sides quickly till brown and tender. Fry 8 croutons of bread till crisp and golden. Place a noisette on each crouton. Pour Madeira into butter in pan. Stir in meat extract. Mix well, and place a small spoonful over each *noisette. Serve in a double row in a hot oval dish, surrounded

-

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

I

1.5

with pommes souffles and buttered green peas. Enough for 4. persons.

,Stewed Kidneys (Xognons Criole) 3 sheep's kidneys I wineglassful Madeira I teaspoonful minced parsley

tablespoonful butter bay leaf Salt and pepper to taste I

I

Prepare and hoil kidneys in &.pint of water in a covered saucepan for 10 mlnutes. Cool, drain, slice thinly, and return to water. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Melt butter in a saucepan. Add parsley and a sprig of thyme and Madeira. Stir in the kidneys. Cover, and simmer for 5 minutes. Serve in a border of rice boiled in veal stock. Enough for 3 persons.

Fried Kidneys with Mushrooms (Ro~nonsau Maddre) 4 sheep's kidneys Pepper and salt to taste $ lb. minced mushrooms

I oz. butter Madeira to taste

Blanch, skin, split almost in half and core kidneys. Dip in flour. .Fry quickly in melted butter till brown. Remove to a hot dish.

I

16 MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

Add minced mushrooms and fry for r o minutes. Stir in Madeira, and pepper and salt to taste. Serve each mushroom-on a round of hot buttered toast, spread with the sauce. Place a tiny pat of butter, mixed with minced chervil, parsley and salt and pepper to taste in each kidney. Enough for 4 persons.

Fried Veal K i d n y s with Wine Sauce (Rogno~zsde Veau au Maddre) 2

I I

veal kidneys onion glassful .Madeira

tablespoonfuls butter tablespoonfuls flour ; sill stock 2

I+

Wash and dry kidneys. Melt half the butter in a frying pan. Add minced onion. Fry till coloured. Skin and thinly slice itidneys, and fry on both sides till brown. Place in an earthenware casserole. Melt I tablespoonful of butter in another saucepan. Stir in flour and, when frothy, stir in stock. Bring to the boil. Salt to taste, and pour into frying pan containing onion. Turn all into a casserole. Sprinkle with 2 rashers of bacon and 2 lb. of mushrooms, finely minced. Cover with a buttered paper, then with the lid. Simmer for 30 minutes in the oven. Uncover, add Madeira. Serve a t once with mashed potatoes. Enough for 6 or 7 persons.

IWADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

I I7

Sweetbread Patties (Bouchdes de R i s de Veau) pair sweetbreads tablespoonfuls butter 6 egg yolks Salt and cayenne to taste I

2

I pint milk 4 tablespoonfuls flour 2 tablespoonfuls Madeira

Prepare and parboil sweetbreads. Let them cool. Melt butter in a saucepan. Stir in flour, and, when frothy, stir in the milk. Stir quickly till boiling. Season with cayenne and salt to taste. Cut sweetbreads into small pieces. Add to the sauce. Cover and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from fire. Stir in beaten egg yolks and Madeira. Pile up mixture in pastry shells. Enough for 8 persons.

Braised Sweetbreads ( R i s de Veau, Braisds) I sweetbread 3 mcdium carrots I glass Madeira

4

cold ham butter glassful dry Grave OZ.

2 OZ. I

Clean sweetbread. Soak I hour in cold water. Place in a saucepan of cold water. Bring to the boil. Boil 5 minutes. Plunge into cold water. Drain and dry. Melt butter in a saucepan. Dip sweetbread in flour. Fry till well browned with the diced carrot.

118 MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY Add chopped ham. Stir in Madeira and Grave. Season to taste. Cover and cook very slowly for at least r hour. Serve with new or mashed potatoes. Enough for 3 persons.

Calf's Head with Madeira Cream Sauce ( T t t e de Veau au Madhe) calf's head tablespoonfuls flour cupful cream 2 egg yolks I

2

tablespoonfuls butter tablespoonfuls Madeira I cupful white stock Pepper, salt, cayenne 2 2

Wash and clean a calf's head, place in a saucepan, add boiling water to cover, and cook, with covcr on, till tender. Cool. Remove meat from cheek in small squares and measure. There should be 2 cupfuls of meat. Melt butter in a saucepan. Stir in flour, and when frothy, stir in stock. Season to taste with salt, pepper and cayenne. Stir in cream and yolks, slightly beaten. Cook over a low heat, still stirring, for 2 minutes, then gradually stir in Madeira. Serve on 4 squares of hot, lightly buttered toast. Enough for q persons.

Stewed Ox Tongue (Ragodt de Langue de B a u f ) fresh ox tongue sweetbreads I tablespoonful flour -1; lb. mushrooms I

2

wineglassful Madeira forcemeat balls I tablespoonful butter Salt and pepper I

12

MADEIRA IAr THE KITCHEN

I 10 ,.

The day before you wish to serve this tongue, place it in a pan with I lb. of meaty beef bones, I or 2 carrots, a turnip, a sprig of parsley, a peeled onion, and salt to taste. Cover with stock. Boil for 2 hours, or till tender. If you want it well spiced, place a blade of mace and 1 2 peppercorns in the water before boiling tongue. Allow tongue to cool in stock, then skin, and rub with salt, allspice, mace and grated nutmeg. Return to stock. Bring to boil. Simmer for 15 minutes. Melt butter in a saucepan. Stir in flour and, when brown, stir in I pint of stock. Bring to boil. Cook, stirring constantly till smooth. Add tongue cut into dice, sliced boiled sweetbreads, peeled sliced mushrooms, lightly fried in butter, forcemeat balls and Madeira. Reheat. Serve garnished fleurons of puff pastry. GAME AND POULTRY

Madeira is a perfect flavouring for all creamed game and poultry. I also like a little of it in chicken and game fillings for pastry, in certain casserole dishes of game and chicken, and in certain sauces to accompany fried or grilled chicken, hazel hen or partridge. When adding Madeira, stir it in gradually, and remember that sometimes a little goes a

120

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE A N D P A R T Y Casserole o f Chicken (Poulet en Casserole Americaine)

chicken, q+ lb. cup cooked peas I cupful boiling water I cupful cream 3 oz. butter I

4

I tablespoon~ulMadeira r cupfuls chopped peeled mushrooms I tablespoonful flour

Wipe and joint fowl. Dip in flour. Melt butter. Add salt and pepper to taste, and spread over bird. Place in a casserole. Add boiling water. Cover and bake for about I$ hours or until bird is tendcr. Uncover. Stir in cream, mushrooms arid peas. Cover and cook slowly for & hour. Uncover and stir in Madeira. Enough for 4 or 5 persons.

Casserole o f Chicken (Poulet #?re Jacques) I I I I

I

chicken, 4-5 lb. carrot pint stock bay leaf tablespoonful Madeira

tablcspoonful butter onion 12 mu~brooms I sprig thyme I I

Truss and flour chicken. Place butter, finely-minced carrot and onion, bay leaf and thyme, in casserole. Cook on the stove, with an asbestos mat between, for about 10 minutes, or until vegetables are brown. Add stock and chicken. Cover closcly. Braise in a moderate oven for I$ hours. Uncover and add Madeira and mushrooms, peeled and sliced, 2 0 minutes before bird is ready. Enough for 4 to 6 persons.

MADEIRA IN THE K1TCHE.N

I2T

Chicken Delmonico (Poulet Delmonico) i

2 I I

2

roasting chicken cupful butter tablespoonful Madeira tablespoonful tart jelly teaspoonfuls minced parsley

I

pint cream

14 tablespoonfuls flour tablespoonful lemon juice 2 hard-boiled eggs r gill stuffed olives I

Roast chicken in the usual way. Cool, remove meat from carcase, and cut into small pieces. Place in a saucepan with the cream, butter, flour, jelly, salt and pepper, and made mustard to taste. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly, then draw pan to side of fire, and stir in Madeira and lemon juice by degrees, and parsley. Serve on a hot dish. Garnish with sliced olives and sliced eggs, or use as a filling for vol-au-vents, when decorate with asparagus tips and strips of tinned pimento. Enough for 6 persons.

Chicken

d

la King (Poulet Royale)

z cu~fulsdiced boiled chicken 2 cupful butter I cupful thinly sliced mushrooms I pint cream I tablespoonful lemon juice teaspoonful mace

tablespoonfuls melted butfer r small tablespoonfuls flour 3 egg yolks teaspoonful paprika I tablespoonful minced pimiento I glassful Madeira 2

Stir the mushrooms into the melted butter. Fry for 5 minutes. Stir in flour, ground

122

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE A m PARTY

mace and salt to taste. Cook till frothy. Stir in cream, and when sauce thickens, turn into ihe top of a double boiler. Add chicken. Cover and heat over boiling water till smoking hot. Beat butter to a cream. Beat in eggyolks, lemon juice, paprika, pimiento, onion juice to taste, if liked, and stir over boiling water until thick. Remove pan from fire. Thin with Madeira. Arrange in hot ramekins, on croutes of buttered toast, or in hot patty shells or a vol-au-vent case. Sometimes I add a few green peas in place of some of the mushrooms. Cover with Madeira sauce, and dust with paprika. Enough for 6 to 8 persons.

Stewed Chicken (Poulet Sautd Madhe) I

zj-lb. chicken ham onions bay leaf gills water

2 oz. lean 1 2 button

g 2

4 tablespoonful butter Pepper and salt to taste 6 small potatoes 4 gill Madeira

Truss bird. Melt butter in a saucepan and brown bird all over. Add pepper and salt to taste, peeled onions and potatoes, I sprig of thyme, bay leaf, ham cut into small squares, and water. Cover. Bring to the boil. BoiI quickly for 5 minutes. Simmer slowly for I hour. Uncover. Add Madeira. Cover and simmer for 2 0 minutes. Turn on to a hot dish. Untruss, and serve with

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN garnish and gravy round. persons.

121

Enough for 4

Chicken au Gratin (Poulet au Gratin) I boiled fowl I & pints chicken

5

large tablespoonfuls flour I egg yolk 6 bottled mushrooms Salt, cayenne and grated nutmeg to taste 2

stock

gill cream r truffle 2 tablespoonfuls Madeira 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter

Skin and remove flesh from fowl. Cut into small pieces. Stir flour into melted butter. When frothy, stir in stock. Stir till boiling, and reduce to half its quantity in the top of a double boiler. Add sliced truffle, mushrooms, cream and egg yolk. Stir till piping hot. Add chicken, Madeira and salt, grated nutmeg and cayenne to taste. Continue to cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Divide between 6 buttered shells. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan. Dab with tiny bits of butter. Bake in a quick oven for 1 0 minutes. Enough for 6 persons.

Stewed Partridges (Perdrix aux Chamfiignons) 2

3

I

I

partridges oz. flour g lb. mushrooms Salt to taste

I

butter pint stock gill Madeira OZ.

Melt half the butter in a casserole. Arrange I

124 MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTYbirds side by side in butter, and baste well. Melt remainder of butter in a frying pan. Add sliced peeled mushrooms, and fry lightly. When birds are brown, add mushrooms. Stir flour into fat in pan, then stir in stock. Bring to the boil. Pour over birds. Cover, and cook gently in oven for about 2 0 minutes, or until ready. Add Madeira and salt to taste. Serve from casserole. If wanted to be served in an entrbe dish, arrange each bird on a piece of hot buttered toast. Grouse can be cooked in the same way. Enough for 3 to 4 persons.

Stewed Rabbit (Lupin Maddre) 2

wild rabbits

6 small onions

& lb. bacon

++

lb. pickled pork oz. butter pint brown stock I glassful Madeira & oz. flour I sprig parsley I blade mace Juice g lemon I sprig thyme 6 hard-boiled eggs (if liked) I

Joint and blanch rabbits, omitting ribs. Remove from fire, and throw joints into cold water. Trim neatly, dry, and dip in flour. Season to taste with pepper, salt and paprika. Remove rind from bacon. Place half in a saucepan. Add joints, peeled onions, stock, mace, herbs, lemon juice, and parboiled pork, cut into small squares. Cover with remainder

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEJY

I 25

of bacon and a sheet of buttered paper. Cover pan closely. Simmer I hour. Arrange rabbit on a hot dish. Strain sauce and skim carefully. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Stir in flour. Add Madeira and liquor to taste. Bring to the boil, and pour over rabbit. Garnish with onion, pork, and halved eggs. Enough for 6 to 7 persons.

Braised Rabbit (Lajin Braise Mudire) I

wild rabbit

3 medium carrots I

I I

small turnip sprig parsley sprig thyme pint boiling water

shallots 6 spring onions I piece celery root I blade mace pint Madeira I doz. tiny forcemeat balls 2

Blanch and joint rabbit. Brown in a tablespoonful of melted butter after dipping in flour. Turn into a saucepan. Rinse out frying pan with the boiling water into saucepan. Add prepared and chopped vegetables, herbs, etc. Pour over Madeira, then cover with the forcemeat balls. Cover and stew s l o ~ d yfor I& hours. Lift the vegetables in the centre of a hot dish. Arrange rabbit joints on top. Serve with sauce strained over, and accompanied by red currant jelly and mashed potatoes. Enough for q persons.

126

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY Hare Pie (LiEvre d la Suengali)

I

plump hare

2

egg yolks lb. puff pastry

g lb. ham 4 lb. truffles I

lb. pork lb. bacon cupful Madeira r or 3 tablespoonfuls breadcrumbs I I

+

Remove flesh from thighs and backbone of hare. There should be I lb. of hare cut into small pieces. Cut ham into dice, as well as pork. Remove rind from bacon, and cut rashers in half. Line a fireproof bakingdish with bacon. Fill up with the hare, ham, quartered truffles, and Madeira. Mix the crumbs with the yolks, chopped scraps of bacon, bits of hare, trimmings of truffle, and seasoning to taste. Pack balls of this stuffing in any corners. Season to taste. When all the ham, pork and hare is all packed into the dish, cover with remainder of stuffing, then with remainder of bacon. Cover with a dish, and bake in a slow oven for 2 hours. Uncover, cool, cover with pastry, and bake in a quick oven (500' Fahr.) for 3 hour. Serve with watercress and potato salad.

Stewed Plover (Salmi de Pluvier) plover tablespoonful rich stock $ teaspoonful flour I I

wineglassful Madeira shallots Seasoning to taste I 2

MADEIRA IN T H E KITCHEN

127

Prepare, roast and joint bird, after removing breasts, legs and wings. Crush carcase. Brush with melted butter. Mix with minced shallot and flour and grill well till brown all over. Turn into a saucepan. Pour over stock and Madeira. Season to taste. Bring to the boil, and rub liquid through a sieve. Reheat and pour over meat. Enough for I person.

Roast Pigeon (Pigeon au Maddre) I I I

trussed pigeon wineglassful water wineglassful Madeira

Salt, cinnamon, cloves and mace to taste, etc.

Stuff a pigeon with a lump of butter. Mix topether a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of ground cloves, cinnamon and grated nutmeg. Baste bird with melted butter. Sprinkle with seasoning and sieved breadcrumbs mixed with parsley to taste. Roast in the oven or a la broche, basting frequently with butter. When well browned, turn Madeira and water into pan. Stir till boiling. Serve in a hot sauceboat. Enough for I person.

Stewed Chicken 1,iver.r (Foie de Volaille Saute') I

lb. fresh chicken livers

a tablespoonfuls Madeira

14 gills glazed sauce Salt and cayenne to tastr

tablespoonfuls butter or lard 6 mushrooms

2

Halve livers, and make sure that none of

128

MADEIRA FOR SAL'CE AND PARTY --

the gall bag remains. Melt butter or lard in a frying pan. Slice in mushrooms. Add livers. Fry quickly, tossing frequently, for 5 or 6 minutes. Stir in Madeira, sauce, and salt and cayenne to taste. Cook 6 minutes. Season to taste. Serve on croates of hot buttered toast. Enough for 6 persons.

Fried Snipe (Becassines ic la Minute) 6 snipe 3 chopped shallots I

8

tablespoonful breadcrumbs gill Madeira

6 oz. butter bay leaf Juice I lemon Salt and pepper to taste

Melt butter in a deep fryer. Add shallots, salt and pepper and a little grated nutmeg or ground mace and bay leaf. Toss snipe in butter for about 10 minutes, or until almost ready. Remove from pan. Keep hot. Stir into butter. Madeira, crumbs and lemon juice. When boiling, add snipe. Cover and cook for a moment or two, then serve at once. Enough for 6 persons.

Braised Quails (Cailles Braisdes) 6 auails I carrot 8 calf's brains I wineglassful Madeira Pepper, salt, paprika and parsley to taste

6 lb. small pork sausages turnip bay leaf I wineglassful stock 4 rashers bacon I

8

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

129

Remove rind from bacon. Truss, singe and place quails in a casserole lined with the bacon. Clean and add brains, sliced carrot and turnip, herbs and seasoning. Make skinned sausages into little balls, and pack in between quails. Pour over Madeira and stock. Cover each quail with 4 rasher of bacon. Cover contents of casserole with a buttered paper, then put on lid. Cook in a moderate oven from 45 minutes to I hour. Arrange in a hot dish. Strain sauce over. Serve with new potatoes or mashed potatoes. Enough for 6 persons.

Casserole of Pheasant (Faisan en Cocotte) I

trussed pheasant

6 button onions 6 small potatoes

8 2

pint Madeira sauce rashers bacon

Remove rind from bacon. Peel onions. Place minced bacon, onion and potatoes round the casserole, and pheasant, with breast coated with bacon in the centre. Add brown Madeira sauce. Cover and cook for about 14 hours in a slow oven. Sometimes I simply add 4 pint of stock and flavour sauce to taste with Madeira before serving. Enough for 4 or 5 persons. .(Note.-4 to 6 sliced, peeled mushrooms can be added half time, if liked.)

rqo MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AJVD PARTY

Goose Patties (Bouchdes D'Oie) 2 cupfuls chopped 2 OZ. butter

goose

2 tablespoonfuls Madeira Salt, cayenne and nutmeg to taste

champignons chopped onion oz. flour gill tomato sauce gill jellied brown stock

12 I I I I

Melt butter in a saucepan. Add onion. Cook for 5 minutes, turning frequently. Stir in flour and, when frothy, add goose, sliced champignons, Madeira, sauce, stock, salt, cayenne and grated nutme: to taste. Turn into the top of a double boiler. Cover and cook over boiling water for 10 minutes. Pile into 6 hot patty cases. Cover, garnish each with a sprig of parsley and serve at once. Enough for 6 persons.

Mousse of Pheasant (Mousse de Faisan) lb. pheasant pjnt sauce supreme $ plnt cream I oz. butter

3

i gill Madeira 3 eggS

2

pint thick white sauce

Remove meat from pheasant. Pound in a mortar with the white sauce and butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then beat in eggs one by one. Rub through a wire sieve. Stir in lightly-whipped cream and Madeira. Pack into buttered dariole moulds, or into one Iarge mould. Cover and steam

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

1 3I

for 20 minutes, if small, and 40 minutes, if large. Make sauce supreme with stock obtained from pheasant bones. When ready, turn out mousse or mousses on to a hot dish. Decorate with chopped tongue or truffle. Pour sauce round. Serve at once. Enough for 4 or 5 persons.

Boned Stuffed Duck (Canard d la Bruges) duck gill Madeira I sprig parsley 12 olives I

I

pint rich stock 6 button onions 4 rashers bacon Glaze, seasoning

Bone and stuff duck with veal stuffing enriched with the minced fried liver. Place in a stewpan with half the stock. Cook for 10 minutes, turning once or twice. Add remainder of stock, bones, giblets, parsley, onions and Madeira. Cover duck with bacon, after removing rinds. Cover and cook very slowly for 2 hours, then remove from pan. Dry with a kitchen cloth and glaze. Strain off liquor they were cooked in into another saucepan. Cook to a glaze. Add brown sauce to taste. Add olives, either stoned or stuffed. Bring to boil. Serve round duck arranged on a hot dish, E n ~ u g hfor 4 to 6 persons.

I

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

SWEETS

Madeira and Malmsey are two of my favourite flavourings for hot and cold sweets. They blend equally well with custard mixtures and sweets made with almonds, chestnuts, dates, figs and apples. I like to add Malmsey to a plain jelly. I prefer it to sherry in certain trifles.

Chestnut Cream (Crdme Maddre) 2 I

g

quarts chestnuts wineglassful Madeira teaspoonful vanilla essence

I I

tablespoonful castor sugar pint cream

Blanch, slit and shell chestnuts. Place in a saucepan. Cover with boiling water. Cook till soft enough for sieve. Rub through a sieve into a basin. Toss lightly for a second or two with a fork. Stir in sugar, Madeira, and vanilla. Chill. Put through a potato masher into a glass dish. Cover with cream, whipped, sweetened, and flavoured with Malmsey. Enough for 8 to 10 persons. Sometimes I serve this sweet on a base of meringue inch thick.

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

I .r?

Milanaise Cream (Crime Milanaise) f packet gelatine Juice of lemon 2 pint crumbled sponge cake g pint milk I quart whipped cream

*

*

gill Madeira Juice of orange 2 oz. g l a d fruits 2 cupful castor sugar f cupful cold water

Use instantaneous gelatine. Soak in cold water for 5 minutes. Add Madeira, strained lemon and orange juice, and pour over cake in a basin. Add chopped glac6 fruits, reserving one or two cherries to decorate a large mould. Heat milk in a saucepan. Add gelatine and sugar. Remove pan from fire. Stir mixture over ice or in a pan of iced water till it begins to thicken. Add cream, and cake and fruit mixture. Pour into prepared mould. Close securely. Stand in a refrigerator for 2 hours. Turn out and serve with cream or a compote of apricots, or with fresh, ripened pineapple. Enough for 8 to 10 persons.

Algerian Cream (Crtme Algdrienne) I

g

cream cupful chopped dates

21

cupful Madeira

+ cupful chopped figs

Chop fruit. Place in a saucepan. Barely cover with water. Cover and cook till soft.

134 MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY Chill. Divide between 6 sundae glasses, and divide the Madeira, or hlalmsey if you prefer it, also equally between glasses. Cover with whipped cream. Decorate with chopped walnuts. Enough for 6 persons.

Harlequin Mould (Crhne Harlequin) I

pint thin cream

3 tablespoonfuls Madeira

K + tablespoonfuls white

I

wine cupful castor sugar 4 egg whites

2

:

tablespoonfuls instantaneous gelatine tablespoonfuls cold water

Make a pint of wine jelly. Colour half of it green and half of it red. Line a wet fancy mould alternately with green and red jelly, making a design in the green of quartered, blanched pistachio nuts, and of quartered g l a d cherries in the red. Measure cream into a saucepan. Bring to boiling point. Add gelatine, softened m water, wine and sugar. Remove pan from fire. Brat with an egg whisk for a moment or two till mixture begins to thicken. Stir in stiffly-frothed eggwhites. Place in a basin of ice-cold water. Stir occasionally till thick. Add Madeira. Turn into prepared mould. Leave till set and chilled, then turn out on to a glass dish. Enough for 4 persons.

-

MADEIRA I N T H E KITCHEN

135

Raspberry Creams (Framboise d la Crdme) 8 oz. raspberries 3 oz. castor sugar 3 eggs

6 teaspoonfuls Malmsey 2

gills milk

Bring milk to boil. Cool. Add I oz. of sugar and beaten egg yolks. Strain into a jug, and pour into 6 small fireproof moulds, filling them half full. Place in a baking tin, containing I inch of warm water. Bake in a slow oven (32.5' Fahr.) till set. Chill. Mix the raspberries with the remainder of sugar. Crush well. Stand for 4 hour. Rub through a sieve. Pour a teaspoonful of Malmsey into each mould. Cover with a layer of puree. Decorate with whipped cream and chopped blanched pistachio nuts. Enough for 6 persons.

Yeovil Cream (CrJme d'Yeovil) 3 cupfuls cream r tablespoonful cold water tablespoonful instantaneous gelatine

3 tablespoonfulsMalmsey tablespoonfuls boiling water 4 tablespoonfuls castor sugar

2

Place gelatine in a basin. Cover with cold water. Stand 5 minutes. Dissolve in boiling water. Stir in sugar and wine. Strain into a basin. Place in another basin containing a little ice. Beat till mixture begins

1 ~ 6MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY

to thicken. Whip cream and stir into mixture. Continue beating till thick. Turn into a wet mould. Chill. Turn out into a glass dish. Serve with cream, or garnish with chopped jelly, and serve alone.

zabaglione (Sabayon)

I.

5 eggs lb. castor sugar

8

?

glassfuls Madeira or Malmsey

Measure sugar and wine into a basin. Add eggs, whisked with an egg-beater till frothy. Place in the top of a double boiler. Continue whisking till the mixture begins to set, or rather, thicken. Serve at once, piled in glasses. Enoagh for 4 to 6 persons.

2.

zabaglione (Sabayon)

6 egg yolks z large tablespoonfuls Malmsey

8 lumps of sugar

Measure wine into a saucepan. Add sugar. Heat slowly till sugar is dissolved, then remove pan from fire. Turn egg yolks into the top of a double boiler with water boiling below. Add wine syrup. Whisk over boiling water for about 10 minutes till the mixture thickens and fluffs up. Serve at once in

MADEIRA IN T-WE KITCHEN well-warmed glasses, accompanied by sponge fingers. Enough for 4 persons.

Baked Apple Purbe (Pomrnes Malvoisie) 6 large apples 2 2

oz. castor sugar eggs

+ gill Malmsey oz. butter Grated nutmeg 2

Peel, core and slice apples into a saucepan. Add just enough water to prevent them burning. Cover and cook slowly till soft. Rub through a sieve. Stand till cold. Sweeten with sugar. Stir in butter, sugar, Malmsey, and nutmeg to taste. Stand till cold. Beat eggs till frothy, and stir in. Bake I hour in a moderate oven. Serve with cream. Enough for r or 3 persons.

Moscow JellJ, (Gelde Moscovite) I oz. gelatine Juice of I lemon 1, lb. castor sugar

+ gill Madeira

11, pints water

Soften gelatine in a little of the water. Add the strained lemon juice, the remainder of water and sugar. Turn into the top of a double boiler. Stir over hot water till sugar and gelatine are melted. Strain through muslin into a basin. Place on ice. Stir in

x 38 A4ADRIIiA FOR SAUCE A3VD PAR_ TT -_...-.-~--,-.- "'-. .. . .(.. ".. .l"l.--..,.-_.

_.,-_

(

.I-l.

X

.___>

Macicira, and wlicn jclly bcgills to sct, whisk 1.0 a l Paur into a quarL mould rillsec1 with colcl watcr. Turn out when set. Chill. Scsve wit11 wllippccl crcarn. Enough Tor G pcrsorrs,

(iegg yollcs r glnssfi~lM:~dcirn K # cupfuls Mnlu~scy

3 cgg wllilcs I ,u~iq) sugar K Irrnon l

W:isll and clry ;L lemon, ancl rub wit11 orrc or two picccs o f luzz~psngsir lill you act olS all tllc pccl. Place S I I ~ ~ L in I * a. basin, AdcX straincc1 1t:lnoxl juicc ancl ~vincs, Brcak in 3 eggs ancl 3 yolks, WWXisk hill wcll rznixccl, 'I'urn intco tlic tnp trl' a Inrgc clo~zl,le: l~oilcr. C:onlinmc ,to whisk liX1 WiWXI. r.fik~t~. I i o t swccl; cnougll or wiucy cnougl~, aclcl xnorc sugar or wirzc: tc3 t t ~ s ~ i : . Wllisk till ~ ~ c a r l y boiling, wIlcl1 i t sXlr)~ilcl bc tllick, I?OII~i u ~ o gli~sscs or It~rgc cut-gl;iss dish. elllill, ancl scrve wi tlr ereaxlz. ll:xlo~zgliTor 6 10 8 pcruoxzs.

M c i \ ~ t l crcam l ~ ~ jntr, a Ilt~sin. X3c:at till s t i r , Stir in sugar and Ma11119(:y, Kcrnovc: s tclrlv

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

1x9

from figs. Chop figs. Place alternate layers of cream and figs in a serving dish. Stand till glack in a refrigerator. It is best to leave it for 24 hours. Enough for 12 persons. Malmsey Jelly (Gelde Malvoisie) I

cupful Malmsey

+ cupful cold water

2

tablespoonfuls gelatine cupfuls bailing water cupful pineapple juice cupful castor sugar

I&

cupful orange juice 3 tablespoonfuls lemonjuice

I

Measure gelatine into a basin. Add cold water. Stand 20 minutes. Stir in boiling water. When dissolved, stir in sugar, Malmsey and fruit juices. Strain into a wet mould. When set and chilled, turn out. Serve with whipped cream. Enough for 4 persons. [Note.-This jelly makes a delicious garnish for cold creams. If wanted more strongly flavoured Malmsey, substitute Malmsey for orange juice. Set with grapes, sliced bananas or other fruit. Set in a border mould, it makes a simple cold sweet which can be filled with a cream, or with whipped cream when turned out.] Iced Sou#e

+ cupful Madeira

4

e&s cupful thick cream 2-3 cupfuls castor sugar

(Sou@ Glacd) tablespoonful lemon juice Grated rind of I lemon I

Break egg yolks into a basin. Beat slightly. Stir in strained lemon juice, grated lemon K

140 MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND P A R T Y rind, Madeira, sugar and one or two grains of salt. Turn into a double boiler. Stir over boiling water till thick. Remove pan from fire. Fold in stiffly-frothed egg whites. Mix well. Place in a basin of ice-cold water, and stir occasionally until cool. Fold in stiffly-frothed cream. Pile into small paper cases. Cover with crushed ratafias. Place in an ice mould with a tightly-fitting cover. Stand in refrigerator :or 3 hours. Enough for 4 persons.

Lemon Pudding Pie (Pudding au Citron) a egg whites

g glassful Malmsey Rind of 2 lemons z oz. melted butter

5 egg yolks & lb. ground almonds Juice of 4 lemon

Place the lemon rind in water. Boil till tender. Put through a mincer, into a basin. Stir in almonds, strained lemon juice and beaten egg yolks by degrees. When all the yolks are added, stir in the egg whites and melted butter. Sweeten to taste. Add wine and nutmeg. Pour into a shallow pie-dish lined with puff pastry. Bake in a quick oven for about 30 minutes. Serve hot or cold. Enough for 6 persons.

Madeira Tr$e (TriJEe uu Maddre) 8 sponge cakes pint chilled zabaglione I oz. blanched almonds pint cream

2

3 or 4 tablespoonfuls strawberry jam I wineglassful Malmsey

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

IAI

Split sponge cakes in half. Sandwich with strawberry jam. Cut in three. Pile up in a glass trifle dish. Crumble one or two ratafias in between. Sprinkle with Malmsey, adding enough extra to entirely moisten cakes. Stand for 4 hour. Cover with zabaglione, then with a layer of lightly-whipped cream, flavoured to taste and slightly sweetened. Prick with split almonds in a wheel design. Sprinkle with chopped angelica in between. Enough for 6 persons.

Banana and Walnut Jelly (Gelde de Bananes) Canary bananas cupful cold water g cupful orange juice 3 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 2

k

tablespoonful gelatine cupful Madeira $ cupful castor sugar 1-3 cupfuls boiling water I

Soak gelatine in cold water. Dissolve in boiling water. Stir in sugar and, when dissolved, stir in strained fruit juice and wine. Cover a shallow enamelled baking tin with half the mixture. Leave till nearly set, then cover with alternate slices of banana and halved walnut, I inch apart. Cover with remainder of jelly. Set. Chill and cut in squares. Serve piled up in a glass dish or in individual glasses. Decorate with whipped cream, and one or two halved marshmallows. Enough for 4 or 5 persons.

142 M A D E I R A F O R S A U C E AND PARTY

Tipsy Squire au Madire I

2

tower sponge cake pint zabaglione tablespoonfuls blanched split almonds

Malmsey to soak r leaves of gelatine I + gill whipped cream

Place cake in a dish. Turn in Malmsey very carefully till soaked through. Soften gelatine in cold water, then dissolve in hot zabaglione. If preferred, brush cake with melted apricot jam before soaking with wine. When zabaglione is cool, brush over cake and leave till cold. Brush once again. Pipe with whipped cream. Prick in between with almonds. Enough for 6 persons.

-4pricot Sponge Pudding (Pudding d'rlbricots) I 2

2 I

tablespoonful apricot jam oz. flour eggs gill milk

I

& 2 I

tablespoonful castor sugar lb. breadcrumbs lb. shredded suet wineglassful Madeira

Separate yolks and whites of eggs. Place yolks, jam, milk, sugar, flour, breadcrumbs, and suet into a basin with the Madeira. Beat well, then lightly fold in stiffly-frothed egg whites. Turn into a buttered pudding mould. Cover with buttered paper. Steam

MADEIRA IN THE KITCNEAr

IAZ

for 2 hours. Turn into a hot dish. Serve with apricot sauce. Enough for 4 persons.

Banana Croutes (Croutons de Bananes) 3 bananas

+ gill Malmsey I

oz. pistachio nuts

I + gill syrup Genoese cake I oz. glace cherries

Cut cake in strips, 3 inches long and I inch thick. Heat syrup in a saucepan. Stir in Malmsey. Pour half over the cake. Place on a hot dish equal distance apart. Cover, and keep hot. Peel and halve bananas. Cut off ends to make same length as pieces of cake. Placc in a saucepan with remainder of syrup. Cover, and cook 3 minutes. Place a banana on each croute. Pour a little syrup on top. Sprinkle with blanched minced pistachio nuts. Pile up cherries in centre of dish. Serve with cream. Enough for 6 persons.

Macddoine de Fruits bananas

2 2

egg whites

I

slice pi~leapple

3 oranges I

gill Malmsey canned peach

Halve oranges and remove pulp very carefully so as not to injure the skin. Rub pulp through a sieve. Stir in Malmsey. Turn

144 MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY into a saucepan. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of water. Bring to boil. Sweeten to taste. Add sliced bananas, chopped peach and diced pineapple. Cook very gently for 4 minutes. Pile into orange shells. Whip egg whites to a stiff froth. Stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of castor sugar. Pile on top of fruit. Dust with castor sugar. Place in a hot oven till brown. If preferred, chill fruit before piling into shells. Serve, decorated with whipped cream. Enough for 6 persons.

Queen Soufli (Soufie' d la Reine,

t lb.

castor sugar 3 eggs 2 OZ. macaroon biscuits

glass Malmsey gill cream 4 oz. butter I I

Cream butter and sugar in a basin. Stir in egg yolks, one at a time,, beat well. Add lightly-whipped cream, vanilla to taste, and stiffly-frothed egg whites. Sprinkle a charlotte tin with fresh macaroons. Fill up with alkernate layers of the mixture, and pieces of Genoese cake soaked in Malmsey. Cover with a buttered paper. Stand in a baking tin with an inch of hot water. Bake in a slow oven for hour. Stand for a few seconds before turning into a hot dish. Serve with apricot jam, thinned with boiling water, sweetened to taste, sharpened with lemon

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

145

juice and stirred into 2 tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Enough for 5 persons.

Savarin

+ lb. flour + oz. yeast

:oz. castor sugar

4

0'

g I

4

lb. butter gill Malmsey gill milk

5 eggs

Sift flour into a basin. Neat milk till lukewarm. Turn into a basin. Add yeast. Stir till dissolved. Make a well in the centre of the Aour. Stir in yeast mixture. Add beaten eggs. Stir in with right hand for 3 or 4 minutes. Place butter in the centre of a kitchen cloth. Dredge with flour. Wring at each end to extract all moisture and make it pliable. Dab over pastry in small pieces. Cover. Stand in a hot place till twice its size. With floured hands, knead down paste, adding salt, until it has absorbed butter and become elastic. You'll need about I teaspoonful of salt. Lastly, stir in sugar and knead till well blended. Butter a round border mould. Sprinkle with castor sugar, or chopped blanched almonds. Fill till half full. Cover, and stand in a warm place until the paste doubles its size. Bake in a hot oven. Meanwhile, dissolve 2 gills of castor sugar in I gill of water. Stir in Malmsey. When savarin is cooked, turn out on

146 MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AjlrD PARTY a hot dish. Pour over the syrup. Fill centre with steamed apricots, or leave till cold, and fill with any mixture of cold fruit you like. Enough for 6 persons.

Chestnut Border (Bordure de Marrons au Maddre)

&

lb. peeled chestnuts 2 gills Madeira jelly z gills cream 4 OZ. gelatine

gill water lump sugar 2 OZ. chocolate 6 marrons glacbs I

3

OZ.

Place chestnuts in a saucepan with milk. Cover and stew till tender. Sieve into a basin. Measure water into a saucepan. Add sugar. Dissolve and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir into chestnut purie. Melt gelatine in a little water. Add 4 gill cream after whipping. Stir into purie. Melt chocolate in top of double boiler with a tablespoonful of water. Stir in Madeira jelly. Cool a little, then line a border mould with jelly. When purke is beginning to set, pile into border mould. Chill, turn on to a dish, and fill centre with stifHy-whipped cream, sweetened to taste and Aavouled vanilla. Decorate base with marrons glac6 and g l a d cherries alternately, and chopped jelly. Enough for 5 or 6 persons.

I

MADEIRA IN THE KITCHEN

147

THE DESSERT COURSE

When planning your dessert course for lunch, dinner, or supper, you must think of the wine when choosing the dessert, or the dessert when choosing the wine. I like to drink Malmsey with apples and medlars. I like an old Madeira with cob nuts, filberts, and walnuts. I n fact, I must frankly admit that I often drink Malmsey with dessert. But then I am particular about the dessert I choose to go with it. I usually limit it to Black Mamburghs, Cox's Orange Pippins, or Newtown Pippins, or iced melon, when I want Malmsey for company. To arrange dessert, nestle grapes on their own vine leaves in a tall compotier. If not picked from your own vinery, either wash them before arranging for table, or copy the Continental fashion of passing a grape vase of water round with the fruit, so that guests when cutting off a cluster of grapes can dip them into the vase of water before placing them on their plate. Polish apples before arranging on a cut-glass or silver fruit dish lined with grape vine, nasturtium or fig leaves. As for nuts, they can be served on the same dish as the apples and grapes, or in nut dishes to match the china. Some dessert services include nut dishes. When serving nuts, make certain that there are enough

148 MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AND PARTY nutcrackers and nut picks to enable the guests all to enjoy this course at the same time. By the way, when serving the more exotic fruits, such as granadillas and custard apples, let Madeira or Malmsey keep them company.

MISCELLANEOUS

Madeira Aspic 2 I

4

tablespoonfuls Madeira tablespoonful gelatine cupful cold water

2 I

quarts consomm6 tablespoonful lemon juice

Soften gelatine in cold water. Measure consommk and lemon juice into a saucepan. Boil till reduced to a quart. Stir in gelatine and Madeira. Strain into shallow moulds, rinsed out with cold water. Use for garnishing.

Madeira Sangaree I

claret glass Madeira

I

teaspoonful icing sugar

Put 2 inches of cracked ice in a cocktail shaker. Add Madeira and sugar. Shake well. Serve in a glass with grated nutmeg to taste on top.

MADEIRA I N THE KITCHEN

149

Madeira Punch &

pint Madeira

I I

14 cupfuls water

r cupfuls castor sugar

pint picked raspberries quart hulled strawberries

Crush berries and press juice through a fine sieve or jelly bag. Measure water into a saucepan. Add sugar. When dissolved, stir till a syrup, then mix with the juice. Add Madeira. Chill on ice before serving in small glasses.

Madeira Cocktail 1-3 cupfuls Madeira I

tablespoonful brandy

4 cupful castor sugar 2

tablespoonfuls apricot brandy

Mix Madeira with brandy, apricot brandy, sugar and a grain or two of salt. Chill well. Mix I cupful of prepared grapefruit with 6 cupful of sliced and quartered banana and cupful of diced pineapple. Stand till chilled. Divide between 6 cocktail glasses, then pour over the dressing. Decorate with 4 muscatel grapes or strawberries.

Madeira Fruit Salad Dressing 1-3

cupfuls Madeira

4 cupful castor sugar

2

tablespoonfuls sherry

Mix in a basin. Stir occasionally till sugar is dissolved. Chill and serve with any fruit salad.

150

MADEIRA FOR SAUCE AJVD PARTY

Pommes de Terre Maddre crated chocolate c&e 4 lh. ground aln~onds 2 drops almond essence 2 OZ.

tables~oonfulssieved apricot jam lb. sifted icing sugar Madeira to taste

2

+

Rub cake through a fine wire sieve. Place crumbs in a basin with the jam. Mix to a paste, then flavour to taste with brandy. Turn on to a pastry board, dusted with rice flour. Knead a little, and shape into small oblong nuts, I inch long by 4 inch wide. Bury a glacC cherry in the centre of each. Mix almonds, sugar and almond essence with enough white of egg to make a soft paste. Add Madeira to taste. Cover each nut with a $-inch thick coat of marzipan. Roll in grated chocolate to the shape of potatoes, working them with the palms of the hands. Make eyes with the prongs of a fork. Stand in a dry place overnight to harden. Serve with ice or iced puddings.

INDEX A FAG= FAO* chicken a ia ~i~~ I%x Abernethy Biscuits 54 au Gratin 12; Algerian Cream 133 Carreiole (1) 120 ~ i ~ ~ n~ l l ~ ~d ~ ~ d~ ' s ~ sgdi t ~Cd ~ J S ~ O ~ ~ ( ~ ) Deirnonico izr ~ n c h o ibuchegie r 63 ~ i v e patties r 70 ~ n e h o v yCanapes 62 and Tomato Canapes 62 Liver. Stewed 127 Sticks 63 Stcwed X%% 69 Apricot Spong8 Pudain,-l 142 Cod's Roe Callapes Cowes Regatta iii-Bits 7i B Crab. Denlled 99 Cxevetter 171 AndrC 71 137 Baked Apple P u d e BaimoraiLoaf 55 D BananaCroutes 24% and Walnut Jelly 141 ,2 Beef Fillet with Madeira S a w de L;do ~ ; & e d Fillet 72 d e S h m o c k 73 Fried rillet with Marrow 5Z Derby Fillet with Truffles DeriertCourse 147 331 1 Duck. Roaststuffed Abernethy 54 B Bntter 52 Duby Crisps 52 Eggs. Fried with Chicken Livers g8 Eton Biscuits 53 Boston 98 Lansuer de Chat 53 Eton Biscuits 53 Madeleines 54 Queencakes 56 F Sh=ewib=y snippets 51 99-104 Thrum* Bi~cuits 50 Wine Raked %cullet io3 5r Bakedsalmon 104 50

. .

.

. . . .. .

.. .. .. .. .. . . . . . .

. . . . . . . .

. . .. .. .. . . . . . . . .

.. . .

. . . .

. : : . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.. :

. .

. . . . .

. .. .. .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.

. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . .. .. .. .. .. . . . . . . . . . .. .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

; 2

. . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . .

.

. . . .

. . . .

. .

. .. .. .. .. .. ...

.. .. .. .. ..

. . . . . . . . .. .. .. .. ..

. . . . . .

. . . . . . . . .

.

C

StewcdLobster Calf's Head with Madeira Cream G Sauce l18 Game Calf's aeadSauce gi oned d. 'stuffed Duck Camernbeit Crackers 6& Braised Quails canrpbs creole 65 Braised Rabbit Caperetten 65 Cai~eroleoi Pheasant Caviare Tit-Bits 66 Fried Snipe cheddar ~ a g ~ o t s 66 Goose Patties Cheese Ovals 67 HU~ pie sticks 6, h l m i i e of Pheasant T O ~ S ~ ~ 68 Roast Pigeon Cherham wafer$ 68 Stewed ~artlldge; Cheshire Canap6s 69 Stewed Plover Chestnut Border 146 Stewed Rabbit Cream 1)s To Devil 60 Game Soup Sauce 89 GibletSuuq Cheveur de &able 69 Goose Pattles

. . . . . .

.. .. .. . .. . . ..

. . . . . . .. .. .. . . . . .. ... ... ... ... .. .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. ..

:

.. . .

..

. .. . . .. .. . .

. .

. ..

. . . . . . .

.. .. ... ... . . . .. .. .. .. . . . .. .. ..

10%

l*3-Z31

..

.

131 128

. ..

125 129 128

.. .. .. .. .. .. ..

1%

. .. ...

.. ..

.. ..

..

.. ..

. . . . . .

130

126 130 127 123

119 97 94 130

INDEX

152

I< Kidneys. Friod with Muihmoms Stewed Feed. wltll \I.ine s~u;;

. . . . .

. . . 108 ' . rrd l o L ~ G S . .~ . .~. si . . . . 140 Olives. To Serve . . . . . . . . . . oyster and shrim Sauce . . .. . . .. ror 01ivettes oysten. ns-y~anif : . 1 OaTanguo. Stewed . . . 3i P MacCdoine de Fruits . . . . 143 hiadeiiaAspie . . 148 Partridge. stowed . . . . . . . . Caclrtaii . . . . r+g petits choux an Parmesan . ~ n d salad t . Punoh . . . . . . . . rqg Pheasant. Casserole of . nsousse of . . . . . . sangaree . . . . . Pigeon. Roast . sauce ( I ) . . . . . . Sauce (3) . . . . . . . 89 Plover Stewed . . . . . Sauce Sweet . . . . . . 93 pomm& de Teme ?ladere . . ~ r i ~ .e '. . . . . . . 140 Potatoes. Crisps and Nuts . . Cnls . . . . . . . xadeleiner . . . . . . . id ~attiee . . . . . . xaimreyJ ~ I !.~ . . . . . r i g Saratoga Chips . . . . Meat . . . . . . . . 105-1i8 America" Braised Ham . irz Brdred Fillet of Beef . . . 105 ~raisedswoetbreads . '17 (2 Braised York Ha", . . . I i r ~ , , ~ i l ~r .m i s e d. . . . . c.ws nead ~ i t niarieiis h cream . lr8 Queen Cakes . . . . . Sauce . ~ i l l e t r of ~ e e f'dwiih iiadura Sauce . . . 105 R

~ s m b Cutlet . Foie Gras miedon~routunn Chat Lemon Puddinx Pie Lobiter Newburg Stewed

10%

I

. .

: . .. . .. . . . . . . . .

61 73 90

107

ir8

123

74

129 I jo 127

126 150

61 61 61 160

128

56

Fillets of Beeiwiih 107 Fried Fillets of Beef witi 114 Marrow xoG Rabbit.Stewed Braised 115 w e d Kidneys wiih$ush;oomr 115 ~ a s p b e r i yCreams 138 ~ r i ~~ d~ onmcroutons b Relishes 62-79 F ~ i e dMutton Chops with >l=To Garnish 79 deira Sauce rro To serve 79 Frfed Veal Kidneys v& Wino ~ n e h o i a~uchesre 63 Sauce 6 ~ ~ ~ b ~ .~ . t . l208 ~ ~nehovyCanap6s t ~ h ~ ; ~ ~ ~61 ~ Anchovy Sticks 63 Roast Saddle of Mutton iog hnchovy and Tomato Canapes 62 stewed ille et 09 veal camembert ~rselrers 64 stewed wdneys 715 ~ a n a p eCreole i 65 stewed blutton 108 Caperettes 65 Stewed Ox Tongvc 118

.

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . .. . . . . . .

. . . . . . . .. . .

. . . .. . .. . .

. . .. .

. . .. .

. . .. . . . . . . . . . . . - . . . .

INDEX

Srrlmon, Baked Sandwiches TOGarm~h ToPrepaiie

. . . .

To Serve

.

Odd s a n d e c h Filings for Brown Bread for Split Toast for White Bread saucer

~

~

(1)

~

. . . . .. .

. . . . .. . .

..

.

: . . Thoughts . . . . . 'room.

:

Shiew~burysnidpeis shrimp FIitter~ Smoked Salmon crown; Salmon Fingers Snipe, Frled

. . :. . . . .

T

ThrumsBlscuits . . . . . 50 :. :: Squire au hI.lrd+re . . . 142 Tit-Bits de Cannos . . . . . 78 .80-818582 Tipsy

. . .

~. i. .t

I04

81-85

: :. :. . . .

. Caif's Head . . Chestnut . . . Madeira (11 . . Madeira . Madeira Sweet .. aiusbmom . . Oyster and Shrimp . Vegetable hladeua . Wild Fowl . . . wine . . . . . Sausa ettes savsfn . : : : : Savoury Eolain . . Needlee . . . . ~

.

. . . . . .. .. .. .. . . . . .

I53

~

. 80 v . 81 . 81 Veal, Chops with Madeira Sauce . 88-93 . . . . . ~ iStewedFiiiet ..i i91 Vegetabie Madeira Sauce . . . 81

: :i .. 89Y3 . g? .. go9 2

xrj 113

9%

W

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

UriidFo,"iSauce Wind Biscuits wine sauce

90 51 93

90

.. 93 76 ... . '45 Yeovil cream . 75 vork canapes .. 7576 York Crisps . . 76 - 5' . 77 . 77 Zabaglione (X) .. 118 77 Zabaglione (a)

Y

. . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . .

135 78 50

.7

.. .. .. .. .. ..

136 136