1901-abidlle

TO

THE

MEMORY

OB

Preface n

~rellaringthis work it has been the writer's aiin to present a faithful and reliable description of the Madeiras, and to treat their history as somewhat distinct from that of the mother-country, Portugal, with which, it is believed, they have heretofore been too closely associated by historians. I11 ~ t y l i u g the

natives of t h ~ s eislands Madeirans the author has filrthermore dellasted from the custom of all previous writers on the subject, who have called them Portuguese, an appellation which the natives themselves resent. Por this divergence from the usual course the following reason is offered. The settlement of Madeira took place previous to the discovery of America, and the Madeiran 7

race has received a large admixture of foreigll blood through intermarriage of the original settlers with colonists from every couiltry of the Old World, so that the natives of the preseilt day in language, appearance, and racial characteristics are noticeably different from the iilhabitapts of the so-called mother-cotultry. The writer has been cilgaged during the past twelve years i11 the pre1)aration of the present work. H e has sought out existing scraps of history relatiilg to Madeira as published in vario~zs little-knowa and almost iimccessible works i n different lailgnages. 111 the course of this aearch he has delved into the dust-covered volumes of many of .the libraries of the Old Woilld. At all times he has been at paiils to sift history and tradition for the truth regarding the cliscovery and history of the Madeiras, and to give clue credit in all iastances to those works fiom whose pages he has derived assistance. A number of the illustrations hereill are reproductions fiom photographs taken during the 8

[Preface writer's visit to Madeira, while.others are from photogral~hs loaned to him By Mr. E. Claributt Skianer, through the coulrtesy of the Union Steamship Company, of London. A section of tlic Medici Map is reproduced from the Laurentiail Portulano, dated 1351; the other map plates have been made expressly for this work from the latest dmwillgs of admiralty and other surveys. A11 especially difficult labonr was the ferreting out and piecing together of the cletails of Machids story, as the writer found them !cattoyed here a i d there in various archives of Portuguese history and folk-lore. H e regrets to say tlmt i11 this uadertakiag he has derived little help from the writings of modern llistorians other than the Portuguese, for, while the former sometimes refer to the story of Machin as resting on too a~xthei~tic a foundation to be discarded, they omit garticmlars, with the excuse that his prediscovery of Madeira is strictly traditiopal. Realizing that many matters of history rest 9

more or leas u111on a legendary foundation, aud desiring that Maellin should receive the benefit of an historical doubt, the writer ventures to present an acco~ultof the early prediscovery of t l ~ eMadeiras, wllich he believes to be true in all l~artic~~lars. It is not the writer's purpose to set forth in this worlc any detailed argument iu support of his version of the history of the ~ulfortnnate lovers. Their stoi*ylwhen fully told mill constitute a volume in itself and will be entitled " The History of Robert A Machia." That students of Madeira11 history may, however, not be too much inclined to discredit the version of Madeira's first discovery, as narrated by the writer, he here supplies a few facts ill snpport of his theory. Mr. R. H. Major's argument in support of the versio~i herein adhered to, which is contained ih his valuable work, published in London by A. Asher 6 Co., in 1868, under the title of " The Life of Prince Henry of Portugal " (elsewhere referred to in this work), is the most comprehensive and convincing that has thus far appeared. 10

Machill's history was first given to the world in full detail by E'railciisco Maaocl de Mello, a celebrated old Portuguese author, in his volume entitled Bl~aaaphorasde Varia historisl Portugueza," published at Lisbon ill the year 1G60. De Mello declares that his history of Macllia was copied fiom the manuscril~tof Fra~lciscoAlcaforado, a squire of. Prince Henry, who accompanied Zargo up011 his voyage of rediscovery, and who chronicled the events as they took lace. The Alcaforado manuscript, together wit11 a, detailed acco~~ilt of Zargo'~voyage, came illto de Mello's possessioi~,upon his marriage into Zargo7s family, about the middle of the seventeentb ceatnry. Although there are grave doubt's entcrtaiaed as to this a i d as to the veracity of de Mello's account, it acems illcredible t l ~ a .do t Mcllo, hiillsclf n I'ortuguese, should detract fiom the glory of his own nation by awarding the hosonr of prediscovery to a foreigner, nl~lesafor tmth's sake, Again, it seems iinprobable that he would so basely detract fiom the honour of 11

Dreface his wife's family as ~u~truthfully to belittle the acl~ievementsof her ancestor. The Portnguese we the first to nnp~ortde BIello's acconnt, and they would be the last t o do so if they were not tl~oro~ighly co~lviilcedof its truthfulness in every important particular : aatm.lzlly they would rn~zcllprefer that the honour of the discovery should rest entirely with their owl1 explorer, Zargo, and not be divided with a11 Englishman. I f Machin's prediscovery be a myth, whence did Macllico, the coast village in Madeira wllicl~is said t o mark tlle spot where Machill landed, and which was so called by, his successors, derive its name? Moreover, why should Zargo's followers, oil their ret~znlto Portugal, have spread broadcast an acconilt of the fii~dingof Machill's grave? This accoui~tcame, in various degrees of completeness, to the eaw of Nnilocl Thomaz, Ailtoi~ioGalvfio, Valesti~lPqnandez, n d mai~y other writers of olden days, dl of whom chronicled i t at the time. I11 conclnsion, it may be confidently believed that the patriotic native 12

historians of Portugal-who are ever a t pains to remind the present generation of the past glories of their aatioli-would not s~zpportthe theory of &Iachin7sprediscovery if they collld find reasonable cause to dou~btit. And now, haviag set forth a brief argunlent i11 support of the history of Robert a MachinYsdiscovery of the Madeira Islands, it seems to the writer but just and fair to his readers to give them a glailce at the other side of the question ttader discussion. With this end i11 view, the writer has selected some of the most able opilliolls contrary to the versioil of Machin's history which he s ~ ~ p l ~ o r t s , and these statelnents will be fo~nldin collected forin at the end of this volume under the title of " A Postscript to the Preface." I 1 1 the preparation of these volnmes it has been to make, 011 the one the writer's twofold hand, a ready-refergnce book for the student, with zt complete set of foot-note references aild alphabe.l;ical lists and indexes, and, on the other haad, a readable narrative for the lover of travel, 13

exploration, and adventmne. Hence the colitents of the work have been so arranged that Volume I. embraces the purely literary and descriptive matter, such as would most interest the general reader or a*prospective visitor to the Madeiras ; while the more technical and scielltific subjects are given separately in Volume 11.

PRINCE HENRY O F PORTUGAL, SURNAMED T H E NAVIGATOR. PRUIU)TBK OP T H E X B U I X U V E R Y O P T H B MADEIRA ISLANDS. IROM A M I I Y A N R K , BNGRA\'IKGS O P "THB.DISCUVERY HeaaY,"

1868:

O P WHICH ARE REPRODUCED IN = E

OP GUINHI;'

1448;

IN "THE

YATmSCm*

LIFB 01 PXINCB

AND IN "THB STORY OP PORTVGAL."

1895.

THE

LAND OF THE W AN ACCOUNT O P TNE M A D E I R A ISLANDS AT TNE BE G I N N I N G OP THE TWENTIETH CENTURY, A N D PR OAI A NE I.V POINT 03 VIE W BY

A. J. DREXEL BIDI)LE,F.R.G.S.,F.G.S.A., F.R.M.S., MEMIkER O F T H R AMELlICAN NULMISMATIC A N D ARCH&OLOGICAL SOCIZTY, MENIBER O F T I I B GEOGRAPBICAL SOCIETY O F PHILADELPHIA. MEMBER O F .OLOGY AND PALA30NTOLOGY OR T H E T H E D E P A R T M E N T O F ARC u N I v E R s I T Y O F P E N N F L v A N r a , DELEGATE. B Y s m c r u APPOINT.VBNT, O F T l I E ASSOCIA~AO COMMERCIAL O F FUNCHAL. I\IADEIRA, TO T H E INTERNATIONAL COIINERCIAL C O N G R S S I N PRILADELl'HIA, U. S. A., 1699 VICE-PRESIDSNT F O R MADBIRA O F T A B ADVISORY BOARD OR T H E 1'BILADELPHIA CO.XXERCIbL M U S E U S AUTKOR OF 1 1 MADEIRA ~ ~ ISLANDS." ~ ~ "THE BIRTH OF THE NATION," THE LIFE OF ANDREW JACKSON." " L A BELLE PRANCR," "THE FLOWISRS O F L I F E , " " A YIOGRAPHICAL ROMANCE," ETC., ETC.

'WITH THIRTY-EIGHT FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS ; MAPS OF* FUNCHAL AND OF THE ISLAND OF LIADEIRA, SHOWING THE MOUNTAINS AND THEIR HEIGHTS ; AND A SECTION OF THE RIEDICI MAP A N D COMPRISING

THE

HISTORY OF THE MADEIRAS ; INFORhlATION FOR THE TRAVELLER AND VISITOR j AND A TREATISE ON THE GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY AND CLIhIATE

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

PRINTED BY DREXEL BIDDLE, PHILADELPHIA, V. S . A.

PART I The History of the Nadoiras

'VIIJG 1)TMUOVIltY ANI) BJilTl'LIMIN'I' OF Z'OnTO BANTO AND TIrm RlG1)IBUOVBltP OU MAl)fiIZlb

Tllo Clrow oacnpo by Son, bul 1 t ~ n di n AMccc, wl~orol l ~ o ynro lrinilo 6lsvo~-llornlefl X~onrsof (illo NOWI~land-Xnrgo l o n r ~ Morales's l~ 8ocrat;-Znrgo HQLU forLlr. Lo discovor1)iscovory nnd Nnmiug o r Pnrlo SnnLo-Tllo Govornor~ oi' 1'0th 8anlo-Tho Now l'orluguoao (Tolony-%~~i*go'~ 8oaond Expodition-1todisc;:avory anrl Nnming of Mncloirn --I'onln, clo Bfio Louronyo-Tho Grc~vool' tllo Lovorfl Je ~ ~ H c o v o ~ c ~ build8 - - ~ &a~Ohnpol ~ o Lo lllo Momorg or l110 L'recli~covorors-Tl~o Modici Mrrl)-l~ifo col' 1'1~inco lxatlry $110 Nnvigntor-porlo 8nnl;o'~PirHL Cjl.ovcn~o~-Uourl~l~i~) 1F

Contents of Uoiume 1 PAGE

of Columbus-Columbus weds Perestrello's DaughterColumbus a Resident in the Madeiras-A Coincidence that led to the Discovery of America-Colurnbus's House -The Duke deveragua-Christopher Columbus-hguilere -Discovery and Naming of Porto do Seixo-Cabo air60 40 C H A P T E R I11 THE SBTTLEMENT OB MADEIRA

Zargo is knighted-Where Zargo is buried-Adam and Eve -Colonization of Madeira-Best Family Names To-day -Distinguished Madeiran Colonists-First Two Settle. 67 ments-Changes i n Administration

.. .. ..

OHAPTER IV THB 3IODERN HISTORY OF THE MADEIRAS

Erection of the Cathedral-De Montluc raids FunchalMurder of Father Roderigo and Nine of his Brotherhood -Gaspar Correa is put to Death-Bombardment of the Cathedral-Assassination of Governor d'ornellas-Death of De Montluc-Spanish Usurpation of Portugal-Signification of Ilha da Madeira-The Seven Years' FireSlavery-Race-Chptain Book's Sojourn in MadeiraBritish Occupancy of Madeira-Kapoleon brought; to MadeiradThe Revolution of 1823-Civil Wars-Coronation of Donna Maria-Dom Pcdro V., the Wise and Just Ruler-Reign of Dom Luiz I.-The First Ocean qable-Dom Gnrlos I.,the Present King-Dethronement of the King is advocated-Victory for Dom Carlos-The African Question-The Portuguese Historians, and their Patriotic Pride-The Present Queen-The Queen's Cha.racter-The King's Character-Why Madeira is Especially , , , 82 Interesting to the World 16

..... .

.

.

P A R T I1 Travel and Sight-Seeing CHAPTER V LANDING AT MADEIRA PAGE

Madeira from the Sea-In Funchal Bay-Enterprising Natives-Native Swimmers-Where Sharks abound-DeepSea Divers-Health Officers and Hotel Agents-Landing in Former Days-Present Manner of Landing-The Custom-House-Ticket of Residence Requirement--When a Passport is Necessary-Countries having Consuls i n Madeira-Modes of Conveyance-The Rede and the Carro-The Superior Conveyance-A Ride through the Streets of Funchal-Street Paving-Narrow HighwaysAlong the Boulevard-Scenes by the Wayside-Shopshe Cathedral Externally-The Residence QuarterPrivate Gardens-The Ubiquitous Lizard-Arrival at the Hotel-Howto avoid Banstroke-Diet for the New-Comer 109 C H A P T E R V1 STEAYSEIP ROUTE8 TO MADEIRA ; HOTELS AND BOARDINQ-HOUSES I N THE TOWNS AND VILLAQNS cr,

Passenger Steamers-Steamera from New York-Steamers from England-;Steamers from the Canary IslandsStcamers from Portugal-From Paris to Lisbon by Rail -Steamers from Belgium-Steamers from GermanySteamers from France-The Maritime Signal TowerThe New Hotel-Boat Hire-The Royal Edinburgh Hotel -The German Hotel- he Hotel Miles Carmo-Hotel Santa Clara-Jones's Hotel, " Bella Vista "-Accomm~.

I.-2

17

Content0 of Volume 1 PAGE

dations away from Funchal-Lodging at Boa VenturaLodging at Santa.Cruz--Lodging a t SEo Vicente-Lodging at Rabagal-Lodging a t Santa Anna-Lodging at Seixal-Private English Houses-Furnished Houses-. Servants -Drinking-Water -The Cook -MarketingMarket Value of Commodities-Clubs and Libraries . 138

.

EXCURSIONS ABOUT FUNCHAL AND IN THE VIUINITP

The Mount Church-Railway aud Tramway-Sledging down the Mount-Legend of the Fountain-Feast of the Assumption-A View of the Interior-The Little CurralPico do Areeiro -The Grand Curral-Picos Ruivo, Cidrso, Canario, and Torres-A Guide is Desirable-How to dress for Mountaineering-Where the Rbde is Desirable -How to choose the R6de-Bearers-How the RBde is carried-The Madeiran Walk-The RBde Superior to Conveyances of Similar Kind in Other Parts of the World -Eow the RBde should be hired-Time required for Certain Excursions-Madeiran Horticul ture-Hotel Gardens-Lawn-Tennis-The Season for a Stroll about Town -Hospi~io-The Late Domager Empress of BrazilH o s p i ~ i ~ s a nCase t a da Misericordia-Leprosy, and the Leper Hospital-Praga da ConsCitui~Bo-A Public Garden-The ~ e Public w Gardens-Prapa cla RainhaPalacio de SEo Lourengo-Relating to the GovernorThe Palatial Art-Cialleries-The Meteorological Observatory-Fountains-Aa Fontes de Joko Diniz-As i n Biblical Days-The Museum-The Opera-House-N'ewspapers-Varadouras Gateway-The County Prison-The Qasiqo-goonlight Excursions : 168 18

........ <

W

Contente of U)oluine 1 C H A P T E R V111 JOURNEYS TO DISTANT POINTS O F INTEREST PAGE

Santa Cruz-By Steamer to Santa Cruz-Inhabited Coast Districts-Eotel Santa Cruz-Caves-Machico-wins of a Franciscan Monastery-Art-Gallery in the Chapel of the Sacrament-Capella of Nosso Senhor de Milagres-A Subterranean Ca~ern-The Fossil Bed-Ponta de 850 Lourengo Ilheo dlAgostinho -The Light-HouseChurch of Santo Antonio da Serra-Lamaceiros PassPorto da Cruz-CalhGta-Monastery in CalhSta-Paul do Mar-The PrazBres-Farming Country-Love for Labour -How Mourning is worn-The Observance of Mourning . . . 206 in Funchal. .

-

.

. .

. ...... .

.

P A R T 111 The Geography and Geology CHAPTER I X T E E GEOCtnAPEY ARD QBOLOW

Volcanic Formation-Situation of the Madeiras-The Time -Soondings-Basalt and Tufa-Size of Madeira--Snow Cohforma-Lava-What Tufa is-Eartliqnakes-Coast tion-Age of the Island of Madeira-Cabo Girdo, the Second Highest Sea-Cliff in the World-Quarries of Cantaria, Building-8tone-Geraniums, Broom, Cactus, and Prickly Pear-Air-Eoles and Caverns-Tide-Ths Inhabited Islands-Porto Santo-Ilheo de Baixo-LimeICilns of Funchal-Fossil Land-Land-Shells Peculiar to Porto Santo-Life at Porto Sauto-Local Steamship Service-The Desertas-Thesalvages 227 19

.. . ... .

CHAPTER X ALTITUDES PAGE

A Table of Heights-Among d'dguia

the Mountains-Fagal-Pe11ha

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247 CLIMATX

Climatic Situation-HumidityNortheast Trade-Wind-The Leste-Sand from the Desert of Sahara-Havoc wrought to the Znby the Leste-Rain-Clouds-Air-Warnirig valid-The Story of an In'vnJid-Mr. Ootoman's Identity -Health, and how to keep it-List of Physicians. i n 263 Madeira in 1900

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From a miniature, engravi~lga of which are reproauced in the manuscript of "The Discovery of Guinea," 1448 ; i n "The Life OF Prince Eenry," 18681 nnd i n "The Story of Portugal," 1895.

. . . . . . . . . . . .opposite . . . . . .

A PEBBLY BEACH. AMONG T ~ &IOUNTAIN-PEAKY E . .

THE FATHERAXD MOTHEROF PRINCEHENRY.

l1

.

33

34

42

From recumbent statues over their tomb in the Coilvent of Batallin, Portugal.

A SECTION OF

TEE

MEDICIMAP

. . . . . . . "

61

From the Laurentian Portulano, dated 1361, and contaiuing nn outline in the central left-baud section of a group of ialancls now lcuomll us the Nndeirns.

PRINCEHENRY.

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

From n titntue over nn entrance to the monastery at Belem, Portugal.

'c

52

Ziet of PLI~u~tcatfone to UoIume I f ZARGO'ST o m . . . . . . NATIVECHILDRENBATHING.

PAGE

. . . . . . . . opposite . . . . . . . .

PANOEAXA OF FUNCHAL (in four sections) . . . Loo Rocrr FORTAND TECE NET BREAKWATER . .

.

67

U

89

"

109

. . . . . THE RGDB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TEE BASKET-CAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 'c

117

THE EVER-COB~L~D STREET A N A ~ R O WSTREET . . . .

129

THB LANDING-PLACE AND CITY FRONT.

l'

118

U

122

. . . . . . . . . "

. . THE CATHEDRAL . . . . . . . . . . . . A PRIVATE RESIDENCE THE CAXRO. . . . . . . . . THE &~ARITIME SIGNAL-TOWER . . TEE NEW HOTEL. MAP OS THE CITY

. . . . .

. . . . .

. . . . .

. . . . .

. . . . .

. .

[l

130 133 134

a

. .

125

U

137

U

150

. . . . . . . . . . . .

'[

163

. . . . . . . . . . . .

'l

164

. . . .

"

167

. . . . . . . . .

"

171

. . . .

X

174

U

182

l'

188

[l

l91

"

195

. " Loo ROCKFORTBY MOONLIGIIT. . . . . . . " A N A T I OF ~ CALI~TA . . . . . . . . . . . E c o ~ o mOF SPACE. . . . . . . . . . . . "

199

CABOGIRXO

235

RUNNINGSLEDGE AND MOUNT RAILNAY A VALLEYOF THE INTERIOR M o r n ~ n m n ~ ~.x c.t . . . . . . .

.A HOTELTENNIS-COURT . . . . . . . . . . A GLIMPSEIX TIIE NEWPUBLICGARDENS . . . . PALACIO DE Sbo LOUREN?~. WHERE THE GOVERNOR

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D'CVELLS

A PUBLICFOUNTAIN . .

THE OPERA-ROUSE AND NEW PUBLIC GARDENS.

'l

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

"

202 214 218

%fet of PIluetratione to WoIutne 1 CACTIPLANTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .opposite 236

PAGE

PONTA DELGADAFROM

. . . . . . .

JOR~E

l'

239

part I 81

Cbe 913ietqr~of the R)abefrae

CHAPTER I THE DISOOVERY OF MADEIRA

oilzance tn ntiiatorq,--It was ill England, in the reign of King Edward III., that one .Robert h Machia, a noble of second degree, fell desperately ill love with A i ~ n ad'ArfFet, daughter of a iloblemaxl of superior railk. And Anna did not spurn the addresses of Machin, though slie had said "11ay '' to many a suitor of more exalted statioa. But, as the fortunate lover was yet so unfortunate as to live ill the days of the fendal system, 11e was obliged to court his lady in secret, for the law of the land proclaimed that every man slzould marry within his raillc and station. The Cruel d'Arfet.--The parental d7Arfet had certdn plalls for hi8 daughter's future which caused him to watcli over her behavionr with circnmspectioll. Anna grew heart-siclc 11nder 27

$be Zanb of the 'UJtne the vigilant surveillance to which she was snbjected, and found it difficult to conceal her growing l~assionfor young Machill fiom the perception of her father, who was of a cruelly suspicious nature. The Lovers' Tryst,-One moonlit night the ever-watchful nobleman saw his daughter steal forth fiom home ; he secretly followed her to the edge of a forest, where she was met by Machin. At sight of his Iadylove the young man im~rudentlyfell u~ponhis knees and began to plead with her to fly the country with him. This she consented to do. Her father, who had cronched in concealment behind some ~l~rnbbei-y near by and had overheard the lover's plan to thwart his will and tho law of the land, made haste to summon his retainers and t o scize his would-be son-ill-law. Machin's Imprisonment.-IIe effected the capture of Robert &. Machia, whom he caused to be cast into a dungeon. EIe then proceeded to carry into exectztion his own plans for his daughter'sefutnre. Anna's Forced Marriage.-A few days after Machia's imprisonment, he ~ummoneda rejected 28

suitor, a certain 1zoblema-11whom Anna despised, but who was of equal raillr with d'Arfet himself With this iiobleman d'Arfet forced his daughter to be joiiled in wedlock, and the unwilling bride was pitilessly collveyed afar to her lzusballd's castle. Then, as ancient chroniclers say, poor Anna, who was fair and delicate as a new-blown rose and in character queenly a i d incomparable, drooped and faded. Nachin's Escape.-But true love, whicli is never daniited, ca~zrsedRobert a Macbin t o keep a good 1-1eal.t behind his p~isonbars. H e did not pine and die in the dungeon, as his ux~llappyladylovc had feared that be miglzt, but, after many unsuccessftll attempts at escape, he at leilgth regained his freedom. He made his way, by dint of great stealth and caution, to the castlbwhere Anna dwelt, contriving, in some praclen t inallner, to send word ahead and notify her of his al>proacl~. When she learned of her long-lost loyer's conling die went secretly f o ~ ifrom l ~ her husband's castle to meet him. 011, the joy of that meeting l A n d .were ever lovers re~ditedafter a more lieart-rending separation ? & ' h'e Elopement,-Though it was a bleak, wild 20

Che Xanb of the llIRiite night, Robert and Anna fied without delay to the seaport of Bristol, where a vessel, secured by a 'friead of Robert's, lay awaitisg their arrival. Shortly after the elopers h~zrriedaboard the ship set sail, it being Macllin's plan t o cross the English Chalmel and land in France. But ere the ship had gotten well under way a storm arose, &d broke with soddei~nessand ftiry upon t l ~ cwater. Machin's vessel was swept fill. out of its course; for two weeks it continued to be buffeted about in the midst of the terrible tempest. The Discovery of Madeira.-At last, ahead through the fog and mist, there appeared, looming 1111 in the dim dista1ice, ail apparently endless chain of mountains which seemed to rise directly out of the sea. The crew of the storm-tossed vessel, worn out with danger and fatigue, looked on this new a i d unknown land with superstitious awe. But Robert B Machill, who had, by this time, once more acquired complete control of his vessel,-the storm having abated,-ordered the course towards the mysteridus mountains t o be pursued. Sailing on through the fog, the sea-weary and 30

almost famine-stricken voyagers came iu full view of a beautiful forest-covered island ; for the sun of a sudden shoile brightly, and changed the pha~itom-greyrange of eminences to a livinggreen lr~ountainisle. As the ship drew more and more under the lee of the land the white-caps subsiclcd into lateral swells and the wind was no longer felt. The ship cast anchor off a pebbly beach which glittered silvery ill the s~ullight. There the lovers landed, accompaaied by their trusty crew. They all took up their abode in a beantif111 sheltered valley near the shore. The Honeymoon.-Here for a while they lived happily. No reptiles or four-footed ailimzlls were t o be s e e i ~ and , ~ consequeiltly there was no fear of clisturbailce from wild denizens of the foreat. The air was fillcd with the songs of couatless birds and the bum of insect life. Fruits hung in great clnstera froin every other tree, a i ~ dhoney with a floral perfi~mcwas to be found in many an old tree-truak and in the roclzy caverns. Many -

l Chapter XXIV., Animals; Chapter XXVII., There are no Snakes,

33

fib11 and birds vr-crc found that f~~imishcd tlle rilost ~Inirityand nutritious food, and parties were organized firr exploring the ac1j:iccnt district, It was a fitvouritc escul-sion for Nachia t o lead a 11arty at earl7 claw11 to some ap~~arently inaccesf;il)lemountain-ywk, and later in the day to return and regale i\nna with a descriptio~~ of their adventures. Then the lovers made ficcl~zentcscnrhion6 together, awar from their trusty follo\vcl-s and into the ~ e c l u ~ i oofn the forefit. Anna thought little of the Ilardships through which dne had passed in her joy at being with her lover in R U C ~a11 eartlt~lyparadise. They g i v e little or no heed to the future, until olle morning the fizgitives awoke to find the great farest-trees swaying to the blast of a mighty tempest. The rain came down in torrents, and Mac.hin, fearing for the safety of the vessel which had beer1 but lightly anchored near the beach, took m e r a l of his crew anif made his way to the place of landing. A great cry of dismay arose when they found no trace of their trusty ship. It had disappeared and ttlken st number of their comrades who had been staying aboard ovel-liight. BIaehin and his followera, returned to their lea@ 34

lioillc to impart the disti*essingnews to tliose wlzo were to ehnro their misery. But ,z hope was still ol~orishcdthat when the violence of the storm abated L110 ship ~niglit1-ct~r11. The rain ceased, ilic tlinnclcs rolled away, the liglztning flashes gavo ~ l a c oto n aunbnrst in the heavens, the son&-birds lil'tccl a11 tlieis praises that thc storm .uvtls 1)asscct ; but Ibc fugitives conld espy 110 objcot seaward vhicli inigllt provc to bc tllo retnrning ~ l ip.i Now 1h:lt all liic~~ils of ~lcl)arI,r11*e From t b o i6.;laiid wcro cut Q& s blaelc clrcad of passing I1113 rc!l~~ninclcr of tbeir livcs in lliis ir?lanclvastness tnvay .Dol~ltlio hauu2,s of illell ~ u I - L ~ c C L thei~-previous c011ic?31t to dirt dcq~t~.ir.This ~11looliecl-lbr calaniit y c:~,tnea8 ,z fatt~lblow to hliiln cl'Ainfct. 'I'llu incxuorics of Iicr former suflcring~iof mitlcl t~nd body aild. of 11011111*c,rontmisSoi~tizneprcyccl upon Ilcr ; m~consoioz~sly sllc grow daily moro Scoblc. 12; wns t l ~ csevcxitl~clay after their lt~l~cling on the boulztiSu1 islailcl. All nsturo ~ccincclrcjoic:ing, and tlio (lt~l~lc-gr-ccn lcavce, duslicil. licro alld theso wit11 goltlolx mni~sllil~c,~'zzstlcil in tho snmmor l)~~ce?x~,.Iiobc~tttll(1 A i ~ i mw:i~~clcrocll~ttil(l-i~iluaiitl. by Illu tiiclo OSL: i+il,plingi*ivulctiu $110 l'olb1 , :lpc)r idle zno~ncn L 111oy hrgot in each other's

r, -4

87

Uhe Pnnb of tbe Ulline society the stormy scenes through which they had so lately passed and the rnoaotono~~s existeilce which the future seemed to have in store for tllem. lildeed, Ailaa was for the momeilt l~appy,and Robert's strong arm stole asonnd her waist; and there it remained, for Anna of a sudden had grown weary and deathly pale. Fondly and gently he placed her oil the mossy bank and in .great alaisin knelt beside her, bathing her si~owytcmples wit11 water fioin the rivullet. Anna dlArfet's Death.-But Robert found, to his anguish, that he coulcl not revive poor Alllla ; she murmured a few falteriag words of ~lndyiag affection a i d expired in the arms of her clistractecl lover. So deeply afflicted was Robert h Machill by the loss of his lady that he fell illto a cpiclc decline and spent all his time i11 erecting a memorial to her memory. Machin's Death.-Feeling that his end was near, he requested his friends to place his remaiils ill the same grave with the body of Anaa, a i d fiva days afte; her death he also cxpired. The Grave of the Lovers.-His dying request was complied with, and beside the grave thora 38

was erected a r~ldelycollstructed wooden cross, upoll -vvhicli was inscribed a brief history of the events here recorded. The inscriptioii upon the cross concluded with the 1.equest that t11e llcxt Christians who might visit the spot in time t o come would erect a church to the memory of the unfortuaate lovers. Bnt the island wliere the lovers lay buried was not destiilecl to be tlie first revisited of that group now Irno-vv1l as tlie Madeiras. ('Glance southward through the haze, and mark That shadowy %lancl floating dark Amid the seas serene. It seems some fair enchanter1 isle Lilre that which saw Miranda smile T,Then Ariel sung unseen." -'lP~rto Santo," n poem, by Jarnes D. Burns.

THE DI8COVER.P AND SETTLEMENT O F PORT0

SANTO AND THE P,EDISCOVERY O F NADEIRA

be Crew eacaye bp Sea, but lanb itz ahica, wbere t'bep are lnabe %kve$, -And now that their leacler, Robcrt Machin, had passed into the world beyond, the fugitives begail t,o betl~illlcthemselves as to how they could escape fro111their islagd prison. There are lneily valnied %ccounts as to the mailner i a tvhich they left the island. Possibly they bad carcf~~lly preserved some small boat in which they managed to get away, but this does not seem i i I t is more probable that, in their desperation, they contrived to build some kind of a craft. I11 any case, thcy embarked, ancl in time came in sight of tlie main-land of Africa. Wit11 great rejoicing they drew up to the shore pnd landed. But a band of natives took them captive and carried them inland. They had landed on the coast of Barbary, and were taken to Morocco, where they were made slaves. 40

At this time, several accouilts state, the wretched ft~gitives inet their compailioils who had also been reduced to slavery by the Moors. It ~cemcdstrange that the ship which was blow11 seaward fro111 Madeira by the te~npestshould bring its occupaats to the same end as those otllers of' its crew who subsccyueatly crossed the sea in another craft. Morales hears of the New Island.-In slavery tl~eiradventures in the far-off island formed the priacipal topic of their conversation, and the reinnl.lcable evcilta which were frequeatly reconilted were liste~icd to eagerly by a fellow-slave, a Spai~iardi~arnedJ u a n de Morales, a seaman and celcbi~a2.cclpilot of the time. Morales treasured all the ~lcwshe Beard of this far-off and hitherto uuknowil land, and, when he was granted his liberty by tile iatcrveation of the 8panish au1,horities (for 116 was a highly prized seamail in the government service), he sta~tedfor 110111e with tlm resolve to tell his sovercigil of the new couatry wllicll might be ~efiuncland made a Spailisli province. But as he was retunling the ship aboard which he had talcea passage was captured, OR t l ~ ccoasl; of Algarvo, by Jogo Gongalvez, the 41

l23

I&he Zanb of tbe Wine great Portuguese explorer and aa~igator;who is better known to fame by his snraame, 2argo.l Zargo learns Morales's Secret.-Now, Zargo was a reader of men, and it was but a short time erc he learned Morales's secret ancl the story of Robert i Macl~iaand Anna, d'Arfet and t l ~ eisland they had discovered. On returning to Lisbon, Zargo speedily conveyed the news of the new discovery to Prince H e i ~ r y . ~The prince, who had an iusatiable thirst for discovery, submitted all this informatio~labout the new island to the attention of his father, the king, Don1 Jog0 I., who immediately ordered an expedition to start in sca~*ch of this newly 1-eporteclisland. The corn~nzznclof this expedition was given to Zargo, wit11 a view He was so named, certain cllroniclers say, because he hnil lost an eye in a battle against the Moors. (The translation of the word Zargo is "squint-eyed.") This illustrates tlia old-time fondness of the Portuguese for nicknames, which, to this day, is a very evident weakness among them. " Prince Henry, historically surnamed Henry the Nnvigator, was born in the year 1394. H e was the fourth son of Philippa, Queen of Portugal (daughter of John of Gaunt), and of John I., the brave and wise king under whose reign Portugal began to be most prosperous. 42

KING P A T H E H *NI)

JOXO

I.

\ t o r ~ l i l l(>P i . H I . i ( l ~ HESKY.

QUEEN P H I L I P P A . F R O M KFCI;.VBBNT

S T A T I , B L"\.EX ~

B A T A I I I X . POKTt'tiAI..

T H E I R TOUT9 IN T H E I O N V R E T OF

t o tlic i~ccliscoveryof t11e uznhlown land beyond Lhc 'sea. Zargo sets forth t o discover.-Taking Morales (who, as 11as been said, was ail cxperienceil pilot) and a nzunbor of veterail seamea, Zargo set sail. Discovery and Naming of Porto Santo.-After 111ucll bcatilng about at sea, a m011iitai1101is isle was :%l last discovci*ed in the far distance. This waR -roll All-8aints'-Day of the year 1415. In lio~lourof Z;ho clthy on wl~icllthis discovery mas iil;tilo, Zwgo imined the islaild Porto Santa.'" 12cncc?,Pollto Sailto was tlie first island of that iur;uilar group, now kuowli as tllc Madeiras, to be oljicinlly discovered. It was settled almost immcdiutcly afiics this cliecovesy, aild Bartholomeu Por.efi;trello,n former Italian see-captain irz the Por*tng~zosc service, was made governor over the early settlers. The aovernors of Porto Santa.-The governorship of Porto Sant;o afterwards became an inheritance in thc Perestrello family for many geizerations. 7'110 ~ o ofb (;l.arcia pe~~estuello iaherited tlie office afic?rIlia ftithcr was bclieaded for the murder of his rn~t~S.lc~~. .-..---U--

' Portuguese, meaning Port of 46

Saints.

these early days Englisl~and Freach privateers and also Moors made fieq~zcntattacks up011 the Prophetas, as the Porto Sailto people were called. There were three great raids bcfore the fifth governorship. .On one occasioil English privateers endeavoured to laild on the Deserta Grailde,l but were driven back to their ship by a number of native fishermen who hurled great roclrs upon them from above. The New Portuguese Colony.--Early in the first goverilor's admiaistratioa the settlers bccanle ~ert11sbedby the steady appearauce in the west of n dark, shadowy mass, which they believed to be the mouth of hell. For fully a year 110 oile had snficieat courage to solve the mystery. Zargo's Second Expedition.-But Zargo was not collteilt with his success in the discovery of Porto Santo. I-Ie searched the island everywhere for the "legeadary " trace of Robest Machin and Ama d'brfet, but coullcl find nothing. He, therefoso, came to the collclusioll that there must be another islsllld yet undiscovered, and he 'communicated his views to the prince, by whose order he fitted out allotlies expeditioil and set sail from I 1 1

Chapter IX,, The Desertas. 46

.Algarve June l., 1419, stoppiag at Porto Ballto e72, ~ ~ o uto t e t,hc (lark, ahadowy lnass in the west. Rediscovery and Naming of Madeira.-And t11e11 it wnu l,h:~tlie tli~covored the lovcly 'L Ilha do M.:~clcii-t~,," or ri;kr7/,1iof V o o d , w11ich 11c so named oil acc!o aut, of' the proli~sionof ti mbcr tllat covered it, C : L I Z H ~ I I i110 ~ clonda to ~ e t t l o~LUCZproduce the clklct; wllicll l~:d. ~11;~llron tllc r~crvcaof the Porto Hant,o pcxq~lo. Wllcxl the sllil~had arrived withill H C V C ~ : L ~i n i l c ~OC tllc? coaat, Zargo ordered t11e hc!lm i.ui*ncil; HO ihcy skirtcc2 the c o n ~ tat this cl id.cnlr:o. Ponta do 860 Louren90.-At thc poillt wllcre the C'01lYHC Of' t11(? ~llil) WlL8 C!ll3,ll$?J.!(~, 111~~:lRt~1'11 OXtr1c\lrlit,y ol' 2;hc irjlnrlcl, Zargo nalllcd :h great; 'ocliy l)lv),jcolIon in thr: ~c:b c' PonCa c10 Silo Loul.enqo," in Ilonour of orlc of tha coinl)nuio~s 011 tho voyagc \v110 l~orc1,llc latI,oi8 family name? The gl1eat 11lourlt:~ilz-chuinIiStoil its sumrnita li)rbidclingly ixlt,o t$u ctlouilw, l~~lil mighty clills roao skyward tit t110 W:IZ,OIJM ~'dgo. A.ppi-o:wl~i~~g ~ ~ c ~ l rrollii~g cr, tltncts of' fo;*a~t;J i l ~ l i lwcro vi~iblc,ailil spl:i8hiug

and s11arliling water-falls glistelled among the luxuriant gro~vthsof trees and plaats. As cvcning approached the ship wtered a, small bay, which Zargo felt' assul.ed must be the scene of the island romance. Morales felt equally coufident. That night Zargo and some ofhis followers vent ashorc with torches, but could find no trace of that for which they were in search. So they returned aboard ship and went asl~oreag&in the following morniag. A s tlmy wallcecl up t l ~ cbeach Zargo was inspi~edby the idea tllat it was here that, years gone by, Anna dJArfetand her unfortunate lover had lailded after their pcribus voyage. The Grave of the Lovers is discovered,-dftor a brief search they found an old, vine-covered cross, and beside it a high n i o ~ u ~overgrown d by tall, wavy grass. Up011 the cross was, in rude inscription, a brief llistory of the a4ventrzres and death of Robert B Mschin' ancl Alms d'~kr.fet;. When Zargo rincl the request engravccl upon the cross,-that ally Christialls who might acttlc there at a f~lturetime wonld build a church oil the spot of burial,-he was greatly moved, Zargo builds a Chapel to the Memory of the Prediscoverers.-over the grave of Robcrt a i ~ dAllns 48

-.D-n-in*

*.

x.dicl Y.p, fms tho hwentian PBttulam, datcl1351, . a d containing -1.lt-h~d meetion ofa l ~ w of p island. now knowourhe n0dcir.s.

a cl~apel' was erected, which existed niitil the early part of the present ceatary, and which l ~ a s since been rebuilt. Wit.hill the cl~al>el is preserved a miiliature cross of cedar-wood, said to have been madc fi~ompieces of the cross wl-licll first marked the spot. Tbe grassy valley and the village that graclually grew arouad the chapel are both called Macl~ico,~ in memory of Robert B Machill. The Medici ~ap.-buring the years 1317-1351 several Portuguese vessels, piloted by Italians, visited tlle Azores and the Cal~al*ies ; and it seems that they must also have touched at the Madeiras, for this island group, together with those first named, is rong11ly outlined up011 a cllart 1;cno~vn as the Medici Map, made ill 1351, and now in the posse~sionof the Laurentian library i11 Florence. 111 Mr. R. H. Major's work, '(.The Life of P1.ince TIeni*yof Portugal, suraamed the Navigator,') published i a London in t j ~ eyear 1868, there is all excellellt copy of this map, and a l)l~otogral~lled copy is to be seen in the British a

Chapter VIII., Capella of Nosso Senhor do Milagrea. Chapter VIII., Machico. 61

7Jbe 2Lanbl of the Wlitje Museum. The portioli of the inap 011 wl~ichthe Madeiras arc shown is here rel~rod~zccd. It was about the latter part of the year 1846 that Madeira was visited by Robert h Machin. And, as most of thc historians of the fourteenth ceat~zryagree that the exisbcllcc of the Mczdeiras v a s first made Bllowl~t o Zargo through the news of the romantic tragedy of Machin, the chart drawn in 1351 must have becil lost for a while, if it was not a forgery, or at least 11ave escaped the notice of the P o r t u g ~ ~ e saz~thwities e and of Prince Henry, until after thc oEcid discovery of the islands by Zargo. Life of Prince Henry the Navigator.-Thc einineilt explorer rctumed to his prince with a ft111 report of his discovery of the great Mndciran Isle. The noble EIenry was overjoyed a t the izews. It was the first real victory wl~ichhc had gained over his many political eaeinies, who atronrzonsly ol)posed his expe~iditureof moacy in tbo cguipmeilt of fruitless exploring c x p e d i t i o ~ ~ s . ~ l Prince ~ e n was r Grmd ~ Master of " The Military Order of Christ" (see Chapter XTI. for a description of this organization), and from the plentiful revenue received into its treasury for publio use he gathered the necessnry funds for 62

PRINCE H E N R Y . h S T A T I I ~OVaR A N

E N T R A N C E 7'0 TIER

MONASTLKY AT BELBM, PORTVGAL.

Thc l~l~incc?, who l ~ a dspent thc first part of his call1y mnallood in lcadillg oxpcditiona againat the Moors, had wllile in Morocco acq~zircdik lovc for travol, E L ~ V C ~ I ~ I . Iancl ~ ' C , ~ ~ B C O V C I ' Y , SO when 110 rct~u-llctlhon~ct,llttviilg lrlaclu n, ~varthyrecord for 1liln~clSin b:tCtlc, ha llnd alrcarly rcsolvcd to put liis r~cwlySozzntl, in2,011cat;to n goocl nsc. In :furIdir:~~:~ucc? of llliti i~itclltiollho llutl ~ ~ ~ ~ L b l11iini~ll~d. ticlf in 1,llcold, soutllorn 1wovinc:c of Illgarvc, PopIzrgcd, oval* .vvliic?hI l i ~littl~ci* 1n:lilo liinz govcrn01*. ,1Ir:1*o, on 1,110 i)roulonto~~y of Sc~gres,lzo 11acl (?rcotcd un obsarvolory niiil guthovcd about him t 110 luttding ~ ~ ~ t ~ i Gg X~~ )t ~oO ~r C~~uld I ~, R a~t1*0110111c?r~ , 01' 1llo (lay, who w01*lced~111Lldol*l l i ~ cliroetiozr, Ancl Mt~tloiilaWLLR t l ~ oprii~co's [!rat notoworthy discovclhy! I l o was nal; long in lbnising 1;hc f~lnclef i r tl~c? fitting urzt of new oxl~cclitioxzto his IictLawo i~Xancl, TXI 1420 a colo~lizirlgexpadition, l~cs~tlccl l110 IiLlilig ouL uP his oxpodiliari8. Ib wnEl 1118 pnl;riol;id nliil unlorprisin,q plan, in bbo cnrryi~igout of wl~ichha wna during his lifutimo i n tb mcnsuro 8uocaasfZ11,to oslabli~l~ tho I)OWOF 011 l'orLugnl ilk Lilo St~rf,h~?r~no~~t qunrlurs of f,lla u~llciiuwnworld, nllc1 tbur~l o Lailtl fin llor n univarf~nlr ~ t ~ o ~ ~ gn cl hns England now ~OOEIORSUM. 6U

Cbe Xanb of tbe U i n e by Zal-go, Tristam V a z Teixeyrn (old spelling, see Cl~apterIII., Distinguished Madei~lanColonists, Teixeira), and Bartl~olomcn Perestrello, was sent thither. ' Porto Santo's First Governor.-As stated in the lwevions chapter, Perestrello, an Italian sea-captail1 in the Port~zgneseservice, was a~poiiltcd governor over the early settlers of Porto Sailto.

Courtship of Colurnbus.--The great Cl~ristopl~e~Colnmbus, while attending a 1.cligioizs coreinoily ill the chapel of thc convent of A11 saints, a t Lisbon, saw for the first time and becallno entranced with the beauty of a certain maiden, to vholn he sooil secured an introduction. Shc was the daughter of Bast'ilolomen Perestrello, and had beell sent to complete her educatioa at the LisX~ou convent. The laws of that iizstitutioil prohibited its inmates from receiving the attentions of the atomer sex. So Colnmbus was obliged to biclo tlio iVct;urn of 31eaina1 Perestrello to her islallcl home, t o Menina, the Portuguese for infant or child, applies to all unmarried women, and is prefaced to the woman's nama in place of Miss. See Chapter XIV., last paragraph pr~codiug Good Manners." 56

which he followcd and t h a e wooed the fair lady. I-Icr Satlicr, the governor, had died in 1467, leaving his scconci wife, Isabelln Mofiiz, to care for their 0 1 3 1 ~da~zgl~tcr, Philipya Mo'iiz. Oolumbus weds Perestrello's Daughter.-Christol~hcr,bcii~ga gallaut gentlemal~,pE court1y grace and Bcsriag, won tho hcart of the lady of' his c1ioice;:~nd marricd her in the year 14-78. Colurnbus a Resident in the Madeiras,-Tile co~zple M ~ ) c ~ . Z I ; tlleir cwly ~narl'iedlife first ill Porto Santol and later in Mndeirn. During this time, Po1.t~guosa histol*y says, Uolumbns made several voy:~g:.csto t11c Guinea Coast. .If; is rc?latcd that, in 1436, a Biscayan vessel clrirhccl stolm-battered into P~~ilchal Bay ; ailcl that it^ crow, who WCI'C fi~nliilostriclc~11to n state of zlttcv l~clj~lcssnc,gs, wcrc talccii ashore and cared for by Colnrnb~zs. But so ellfeeblecl had they bec!omu Ijy their ~~Ireri13gs and privations that efforts V t acorns nn odcl nnd, at tlio salno time, a romantic coincidonco tllnl Colurnbus lirst Inet t l ~ olady who became his wife in lllo olittpol of A11 St~inLs,nnd that they lived, when first ~nnrriod,in tho Islnnd of tlie Port of Saints, so called in l~onourof ils tiiscovcry on All-hints'-Day.

C'he Zanb of tke Ulline to restore them to health were in vain, and, one after another, they all expired. A Coincidence that led to the Discovery of America. -111 t o l r e ~of~ his appreciatioii of the kiildilesscs rendered to himself and his comrade^, the dying pilot bequeathed to Colurnbus his various ellarts and papers. The alert explorer found these to contain much i~~formatioa coi~eerilivgforciga and little-how11 laads, together with valuablc hiuts as to the best modes of pl.ocedure in the quest for ~ulknownterritory. It was fiom a atucly of these charts and papers, many 11istol.ians believej that Colnmbus was led to the coi~elusioilthat there existed laild beyoild tlic w e s t e ~ O~ Cl C ~ I ~ . ~ Columbus's House.-111 the Rna Dircito there stood, until very recently, a, house in which tlicl*e is but little doubt that Colnmbus had his rcaidence. It was built originally by 0110 Jeaii d'Esmenaut, a, Fleiniag, who, tradition says, spent much time with Colunibus in F~~nclial. The Duke de Veragua.-Whea the D~zlce de Veragua and his family visited tke United States Dr. Gaspar Fructuoso was one of the supporters of this theory, and his argument in "As Snudndes da Torm," his comprehensive work written in 1590, i8 able nnd convincing. 68

A WINDOW IN T H E rUNCHAL RESIDENCE OF CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS.

in 1893, tbo writer lnecarne quitc well acqzlainted wit11 the son, thcrl a hai~dsornoled about fourteen years of ago. I-Iis ntlmc was Cristobal Colon y Aguilcre, or, Anglicised, Chriatolnl~erColuinbusAguilcre. As it; will donbl;lcsa bo rccallcd, for t1:c American lwess was ovcr 1.eitcrating thc h c t during tlie l)criocl of the Columbus Sainily'a aojourn in this country, this aaine Chilistophcr Coltzmbus, the 1)rcsec"tDukc of Veragnn's 8013, ia ilie dircct malc dcsceizclant of thc old-time Gclloeso AC~-captaii~, liusbai~dof' Govenlor ~cl*oatl~clld'*i duoghtcYand discovcrc~of the Amcrican Contiu cut, Christophcr Colurnbus. Christopher Dolumbus-$guilere.-Bclow is Lhc sig~~atun~c of Lho l)itcecizl; Cllri~t~l)licr CO~L~~~UM, as hc wroto il; ill tho author's t~11togi*al)l1 album :

rl'llc Ycragaa fiunily livc in 8l)ain, a11d the Dnlio do Vci*agnl~ haa lulldad eatatca in the monntniatj aoilze XIOLI~A' jozurncy Doin Madrid, Sinco t11o family hnvo mol; witlr financial roversea they 11avo q ~ c nmost t of t110ir titno 011 those oslate~, 1.-4

a1

&be 'aanb of the llllline The dulre a i ~ dduchess have two children,the son above melltioned and a daughter wlio was married about seven years ago. Aguilere is tlie family name of the Duclless of Veragaa. Let us now retnril to Zargo and his expedition. It was about J ~ u l e15 that Zargo re-embarlced on a further tour of exploration. H e found t h a t he could note the conformation of the coast aiorc caref~~lly by eateriag a row-boat and following in the wake of theR vessel. Discovery and Naming of Porto do Seixo.-I&? continued westward uatil he came t o a place where a aitmber of springs of fiesh water poul-cd fiom a rock into the sca. EIe and his garty laaded and regaled themselves by long and deep libatioils fiom this sparlding fluid, and Zargo named the place Porto do Seixo. To-day this place is highly renowned for the purity of its watcr, wllich is carried to Sallta Cruz. The explorers re-entered their small boats a n d soon came to anotller inlet fionted by a fille, 013~11 beach. A number of old trees had been blown down by the violence of some recent wind-storm, @d Zargo caused a cross to be made of a, couple 62

of thc trces and sct uprigl~t. I-Ie tliea .named the place Santa Cruz. T111zs thcy l)rocccdcd, paddling ailoli over the quiet summer sea; and sometiines stopping to name a bay, a mountain, or a river. Oilce they were obligcd to fiail around a 1)recipitous cape, lkom wllich a glaat floolr: of tern soared and flew about tlicm, seemingly delighted at their ;~1311roach, and uttel*ly fc~earless,for tlzcy perched up011 the boats and up011 the navigators. Zargo nained tlzis 1)roinincnccCabo do Garnj30 (Cape of Tern). T l ~ eexplorers weat ashorc on the fartlzcr side of thc calm and ~ r ~ ~ w westwa~.cl ded across an exl)a11m oQF open, rollii~gc01111try. At a hlacq where t l ~ cmountains ci~closcda vcrdailt valley, cxccpt was bordcred by a pebbly towards thc const,whic~~ beach, a i d where three rivers1 crossecl seaward, t11o explorers pauscd. Zargo decided that this ~houldbc the site for tlzc l~riiicipalcity. EIe then ;~llcl t l ~ c ~lltilncd ~o it Fi~nchal,aitcr the rcnncl (T~~i.rnaho) that covcrcd the ground iiz grcat luxnriancc in 1111 directions. Cabo Gir&o.--011 t,hc followil~gday tlie yarty l*ct~z~+nc"tl to t,lloir l)onts and again proceeded wcstWChapt;urXVII.,Riboiros. (is

'(ICbe2Lanb of the lliQllne ward for about tlirce miles. , A t tlie place where tlley t u ~ a e dthere was a mighty precipice, ancl this Zargo named Cc~boQ:i~*lio,l- Cc~bobeing Partug~lesefor Cape, and Gi~n"obeing derivcd fiom tlie Portuguese word g i ~ o ,"t ~ ~"-(fi*om ni the same 13oot as the English " gyrate"). so011 afier retunling to &Xachico, the party set sail for tlie inother co~ultryto inalce 11111 report to their royal mns tel., l'rince EIenry. Zargo deerncd it expcdieilt to denude certain portions of tllc islaad of thcir impciictra73le fol~csts,in ordel*tlmt settlers might find clcared land whcrcoil to build and cultivate, and he advised destroying the timbe^ by Arc at thc place that he had ilamecl for settlement. It is, indecd, a misfortune that; thc iioble prince gave his col~seiitto Zargo's plail, f o ~as , Portuguese hi~;t01'ytells us, tllc firc, oilcc begun, burned Ibr rscveli years, I11 any event, there are few treca on the island to-day, cxcept;ing some small forests in the ii~terior.~ Cnbo Girtio 118s since been found to b0 the secolld highcsl, sea-cliff in the world, and moro is told of it in Cliaptor IX,, Cab0 Girfio. a Chapter IV., Tho Beven Years' Fire; Chapter XX., Trees.

C 11A. P T E Xi 1X 'l:

firgo L4 [~~tlgV)teb,--It Ivna i l a l until nf(.oxB Msilcirrt l~stl boo11 oficiihlly xu~tda:L c!olouy of P o I * [ ; ill ~ It ~ l ~L Y?C ~:~~1435, :),H H~ILI.I!(X ill tllc l)llcviousc:hapt.cr,tl~ntit;l)i?gu,nl;o l)i: colollizcil. X:u'go W U l~c ~ l i g l ~ lby ~ itl l ~ king, o ttlltl tlll8coY O I I I I ~ l ~ l o o t lol' ~ I l i c ! nobility w c ~ ocor~i~~~ax~rlctl. I)y 1,110 Icing 1,o rc!l)air to Mt~ilci~tutmd thc?zlu l o nlt~~*l'y l t ~Lllu Z;ulgo'n l,lllv!c daugl\tc!r.a. JJa~g,rog ~ ~ n rin rlc!w i~lalxil wctrc\ lllndo to illo ~~cvv'ly ~vct(ld~\cI cou ~)lcs, arrtl. I%;urgowtts tqq)oinZ;cd~ O V C ? ~ I I OOSI +1,110 ir~luuil,whiol~position 110 occul~iedl i ) v fbrty yciu1st .L\ uuin1,cr' of iho Icadi~~g St~milic?~ in l!'a~lcllala1.o tlc3~~!i!lldmi,t3of' %;a~$ro'a cd~~ig,rlli;~l~~ ~ 1 1 03nnunliacl. t,hc no1)lomon. Whore Zargo is buried,-Ztl,l1go"s rlolllni~lrr 1~1'0 iutowccl. in tllc clzur'ch ucljaccllt 1;o t l ~ oSanlu Clrula

Che Xanb of tbe TiUline old, crumbling, deserted chapel, tlle Clial~elof Santa Catarina, which was erected by Scill~ora Gon~alvez,the wife of Zargo. Adam and Eve.-The first badeiran-born children were twins, to whoin the names of Adanz and Eve were given. They were the oEq~ringof the wife of one Go11r;allo Byres Ferreisa. Femeira was one of the cornpailions of Zargo whcll that explorer discovered Madeira, a ~ l dhe snbseq~~ently took his wife to Funcllal. Colonization of Madeira.-At first Madeira had only a few straggliilg settlers, but by 1453 the new islancl had attracted the attention of tho Xwopean colollizing conntries to sncli an er;t;ent that people begail to pour in from Spain, Italy, and EIolland. Moors also came, and Ncgro slalves escaped thither from Afiicn and from the Cai~aries. Best Family Names To-day.-Vczrioas lialncs 1)rominent in the history of those times arc borne by the Madeirails of raak of tile present clay. A t the period of the first iizflux to the new isl:lnd special inclncemeats to colollists of noblo bil-th were offered by the Postug~~ese goven~rncat. By order of the priace, the earliest high-born irninigrants were given large grants of land and. tho 68

assurance that their names should be recorded and handed down to posterity. The appeaded list is talccn from Dr. Azevedo's edition of Gaspar Pructuoso's wor12: entitled f' As Saudades da Terra," and contains the names of those first noble colonists ; most of these names exist at the pltescnt day, and are tlie leading Family names in Madeira. Tlze ligt as appeaded is coataii~edin the baclr of Miss Ellell M. Taylor's comprel~easivetreatise, " Madeira : I t s Scenery ancl how to see it." Distinguished Madeiran Colonists.-ABREU. This family, from Portugal, settled in Mndeirn and had grants at the Arco da CaZAdtn, and it became n mdrgado (entail) in 1545. ACHIOLI,or ACUIAIOLI. 8imon Achioli, from a distinguished Florenline family, settled in 151G. A a n n ~ r , ~ .Fernao Alvnro cl'Agrella, in 1480. Aaurha. Ono of the first settlers was Diogo Affonso d'Aguiar, early in the fifteenth century. A L ~ U Q U E ~ Q VFirst E . mentioned in 15.70. AI~DROMAR.Biscayan, in 1600. ALLEMXO. Henrique Allemilo, or Henry tile German, supposed to haye been a Polish prince. Large tracts of land nt Magdaleiln were granted to him by Prince I-Ienry and confirmed to him by D, Affonso in 1467. 69

Che Zanb of the Wine ALMADA. Pedro do Almada settled about the beginning of the sixteenth century. H e was a nephew of the celebrated Conde de Abranches. I n recognition of good service rendered, the King of El~glaildconferred on him the order of the Garter in 1501. ALMEIDA. Constan~aRodriguez cle Almeida was wife of Joiio Gongalvez Zargo. Amador de Almeida was give11 a grant of arms in 1638. ALVARES. Luiz Alvares dn Costa founded tlie moilnstery of St. Francis in Funchal in 1473. AMARAL. Francisco d'Amarzl, Macliico, 1567, AMIL. Settled early in the fifteenth ccntn~y. I n Dom Manoel's time JoBo Feranndez de Aniil was elltrusted with the building of the hospital in Funclinl in 1601. ANDRADE. Early in the fifteenth ccatury. ANNEB. Early in the fifteenth century. Founded llie chapel of Siio Bartliolonien in Fuachal, ilow clcmolisl~ccl. A R A G ~ OFrom . D. Pedro de Aragao, brother of Isitbe1 of Castile. ARANHA. From one of this family Becco clos Arallllns wns named. AEAUJO. About the end of the fifteenth century. ARCO. From JOBO Fernalldez do Andri~dn,n Galicinu, who took the name of Arco after fouucling the c1ial)ol of SBo Braz at Arco de CalhOtn. ARNXO. From William Arnolcl, wlio accompanied Pliilippa, Queen of John I., to Portugal. ATAIDE. 13s daughter marrierl the third cnphia of Punchal. 70

ATIIOU~~UCA. One of the first settlers. Tlle parish of Athouguin a t Cnllibln reLaills his nnme. A ~ n r ~ sGonpnllo . Ayrcs Berreira, one of the compai~ioasof Znrgo, was fatlier of Adao Gongnlvez, t l ~ ofirst Mnileirnb o n ~boy, who 1)uilLtho original Mollnt Churclr. Az~svicno. Fmm Mniioel Fnria do Azevedo, who was ~vroclrctlill Mntloirn 011 his voyngo to Indin from Porlugnl. h z r ~ r r A r , . From EstovCo (10 Azinhnl in 1471, 1 3 ~ ~ ~ ~ r rFrom n ~ n . Messor I3nl>tistn, a Gouooso sottlor in 1480. l Z ~ a ~ % o l'oilro x ~ . I3nrbozn niarriod 1Jonnn I-Iolenn iIc Mcncircs, hoiross of Gnrcin Monia, Mdrgnrlo of Cnnigo, J ~ A J ~ J Z A D A1 H1 . 1IUi"71 Ailtoilio Bitrratlns wns the notnry of tl~ollospilnl of F!'clnclinl, J ~ A ~ L T ~ T C T OTWO . so1dio1'8 ill this f~tluilydistingi~islreiftlminsolvo~~ i n Tangim.. 13nrtnoe. 0110ol tbo carlieel colonists. UASX~. From D. Aurlrdclo 13nyiio, I_lclchior B~ayilo,nmong tllo first sattlors. 13re~tr~cru~elt.Fro111 Potll,o Boringnor tlc I;crnillinnn, or Vt~loncin,n nob10 of Llia 8pnnid courl ; cnme to Madoirn in 1480. 131e~n~ie~cuu~t~~. From I-Tonricyno nnd a n ~ p n (10 r 13ctLciiconrL, Froircl~cnvnliors, who ill 1450 cnlno to Mncloirn will1 thoir 1111.clo IIi~ciotilo Boltoncourl,,nfiov 110 ~ol(1lria pns~cusions,l110 Ct~~lnry Tslnnds, to Priiloo IIonry. J3onii~c~.From I l n ~ ~ rBorgcs, la a nol)lo, in 1638. OF the bad-ohambar of tlio i ~ Fromo n goiltlo~r~niz 71

Cbe fannb of the lllAi~te Infante D. Luiz-Francisco Botelho de Andrade, one of wholse sons perished at Tangier with D. Sebastian. Joiio de Braga was one of the first colonists. BRAC;.~. Baaxco. Diogo Branco, great benefactor to the hospital. B~axnTio. Duarte Brandiio, in the reign of D. John 11. Bsaz. F e m b Braz, a member of the town council in 1471. Brcr~o. From Pedro de Brito (?eOliveira Pestana, who came to AIarleira in 1170. J3r.r~.From Paulo Brum, a Frenchman. ('ARRAT,. From a noble of Prince Henry's household in the beginning of the fifteenth century. CAIIUS. From Jean Cahus, a Frenchman, in 1580. C'a~ar:., or CAIRO$. An old and noble name. Constantino de Cairos of Madeira is mentioned in old records as having been a raliant soldier in India. CAI~DEIRA. One of the first colonists. Settled at Camara de Lobos. C A ~ I A I :J~ O . ~Gonplvez O Zargo took the additional SUP name of Da Camara, which, as well as the arms granted by Prince Henry, was confirmed by Ring Affonso V. in 1460. CAAIELLO.Settled in Madeira in 1471. CAXHA. From Ruy Pires de Canha, one of the earliest colonists. The parish of the Canhas derives its name from him. He built the first church there. CARDOZO.An old Portuguese name. Nuno Fernandez Cmdozo was 31Brgado of Gaula. ~ ~ R V A L E A L . From Lopo de Carvalhal. CAR~AALEO. From Ant80 Alvarez de Carvalho, one of the first settlers, 72

Cnslunzl-BRAN~O.Froin D. Guiomar do Clnstel-Brenco, who died iu 1629, lenvivi~ign Ini.go estnto to ilia churcll ill Rilsoirn Brnve. ( ~ n ~ ~ r ~ ~ ~ r ~ oA. ~ D. B rJoiio t h ~c1c0 oNoronhn + C)nslallo-Bmnco distingnishcil llirnsalf ngaiilst tllo JToors. OAATI~O.Jpro111 Diogo 3Li'ornnndez do Cnslro, in tlla reign of D. J'oico 11. (:l\l1~~rxo.Fro111 Ryrio n~icl Repliaol Cntnnho, Genoese; l110 krmor 11ttil boo11 ~n~l~lniii of 1110 body-gunrd of T?~nnciaI. of l!rntlco. 1 Froin n Gcnocao, brolller to hnilr6 CWL~Y, colebrillod in history. Crrnv~efl, Mnrlin do Chnvos, nil onrly sotllor in 1~171. U r r ~ r t X o . From Joico Clidrico, n oilixoll in 1448. 0110of lho town briilgcs b o n i ~liia ~ nnmo. (lie~rarrto. From D. Frnlloisco Cisnoiro, of Tolorlo, cnl~litin of 0110 oP l110 cornl~n~lios of 6ptb11ish troops wl~uCoolr poa~asaior~ of Mndoirn in 1584. Cjoli:~,~ro.0110of tho firsl aolonisls. Clo nurarn. From Alvnro Afi~nsoCo~grcin, gcnilornni; of tllo boil-chnmbar of idio firs^ Dlilco of Bragnngn, Zlo h i l t lllo cl~uroh of N, S, do Cdhnn, nnd diecl in 1490. Oortlmex, B'roai Mnnoal CorLoz, of Oporlo, ill IOlli. 0 0 , Jpronl Luiz Alvnroz dn, Contn. XI0 fotlnileil Lho aox~vanCof 850 B~~lLnoisco in Fiulchnl. Co~rfro. 3'ounilo~ of tho ollnpol nL Sanbn Amnro. C~~INIIA. 0110 of tllo lirst ~olllors. T)'ll:cj~ or Tln Sd. Donnn Jonnut~ii'Jl:(;n was firs(, lady of 73

Cbe Zattb of the

WZitte

the bed-chnmber o! Queen Catherine of Bragnnga, wife of Charles 11. of Englnnd. D O R ~ From ~ . Esteviio Annes Cinta Doria, n Genoese noble, in 1480. Dsvnmro~~.From John Drummoncl, son of Sir John Drummon(l, Lord of Stobhall, brother of Annnbelln, Qucen of Robcrt 111. of Scotland. Authentic ilocumcnts prove t h 3 this John Drummond cnmo to Mndeira in 1425, evidently as n refugee, as it was not u11tiI on his denthbed that he revealed his real nnme. Up to thnt timo he vent by the nnme of " Jo&oEscocio," or Jolln the Scoi,. He married Bi-anca Affonso, sister of tlle first vicar of Snntn Cruz. His ilescendants are numerous at prcsent in .Madeira, The present hend of lho fuinily is tlio Rfldrgado clJArag50. DURO. From Mailoel Mendes de Duro. Escosan. From Pedro do Escobnr, n Spnninrd, who sat1,lctl in Madeira in 1500. ESMERALDO.From Jenn d'EsmennuG, n Flcming, in 1480, who built the grent mansion whore Colulllbi~sstnyctl in Boa do Esmernldo. ESPINOLA. From Leonardo and Antonio ~ ~ i u oGonoeso, l'~ of the family of Spinola, celobrntcil in llistory. FARIA. From Braz Gil do Fadn, nn oarly s o ~ t l ononr ~ Camara do L O ~ O E I . FAVILLA. From Ferllao Favilla, n, ~iolsleof tho court of D. Manoel, early in the aixtee~~th centnry. FERNANDEX. One of 1110 first names h l i ~ l sof cc)loi~i~[,~. FERREIRA. Brnx Fcrreirn, who died in 1493. 74

~ r u ~ n s ~ l tFh ~. o m Gollgallo Figueira,

who came f ~ o mGulicia in llia reign of Icing Bcriiaiido, Alvaro Figueira was 1110 ArsL of tlio ilnruo who came to Madeira. F Y ( I L J ~ ~F r:oIm~ Pcdro ~ ~ ) Ade. FigueirBt~,settlecl at Machico tuztl M ~ L I I ~Cri~z ~ L early in the sixteentll century. 2'~,onle~(;a.Froni Joi~oSalvnti, n Florentine who, concerned ill tllo conspirncy ngtlinst the Medicis, fled to Madeira in 1478, wlioro liis rlesceiidnilt~~ are lrnown by the U R I U ~ of B1uronc;a. FI~AN~;A. Frorn And106ilo Frnngn, n Polisli gentle~nau,who in 14Ej0. Ilis son, J O ~doOFrnil~n, cemo 10 N~~ntloirn Xmilt tlio aliul~cho f N. S, cla Gmgn at the Estreito da CnlhOtn. Jpn,ixXo, Brorrl Z'uclro Frnzb, who was settled in Mndeirn in 1D82. B1tlalrr1n~.:I~roniGongnllo do Freilas, one of D. Fernnudo's coarL ; also Sroin Jono Bodriguez do Freitas of Algarve, who innrried Ilia widow of I-Ienrique Allem~o,the Polish ~ ~ s i n cM o ,brgado of 1\4ngdnlena. 1"as~s. Froln Ronrau ile Frias, an Italian, whose lauds rotain llitr nane. Ctnr,rmrznos From n Fre~ichmnnnamed Gaillarcl. QAMA, From Lourcnqo Vaz Perreira de Gnma. GII,. Frorrl Vasco ail,a mnll of solno note in Funohal in J 472. I-Iis land8 rctnill his name. (3cxtn r,.r,rcs. From Piotro Girnldes, a Florcntine, who founcled Ilo~pitnlnt CnlhOta in 1636. ]i'rol~~Don Aniio d t ~Aslrada, Senhor de Go& in ('Joj;~,

Uhe %anb of the Wine GOMEZ, Froln JO&O Gomez, one ol' Prince I-Ienry's pnges. GONCAWEZ.From Joio Gongalvez Zargo, the discoverer of Madeira, and also from other colonists of the nume of Gonpalvez. G u w ~ c ~ oFrom . Ruy Gramacho, a noble. HENRIQUES, From D. Jolo Iienriques, third son of the Senhor d'Alcapovas, chief hunlsrnan of D. AlTonso, D. Joke II., and D. Manoel, lrings of Portugal in the Lifteenth and sixteenth centuries. HENRIQTJESDE NORONEA. From D. Gargia J-Ienricyucs of' Seville. HEREDIA. From D. Antonio de Beredin, captain of tlio Spanish force sent to Madeira when Portugal was subject to Spain, in 1682. How~ar. From Garcin Ilonlem de Sousn, who mnrrieil Ct~tllarina Gongalvez da Camara, daughter of Znrgo. I-Io was a noble of the housel~oldof D, Mnnoel. JAQUES. From Raphael Jaques, an English merchant, wllo settlecl in Funchal in 1570. JERVIS. From Richnrd Jervis, nn Englishman, who aeltled in F~inchalin 1660. Tho present represcnt;ativo of tliis family is the MOrgado Jervis. LEAL. One of the more ancient names of Maclcira, especinlly at Porto da Cruz, where, on their property tho Lombo dos Leaes, is the chnpel of Sno 5090 Nopomuceno. LEME. From Martiq Leme, a Flemish oavalior, wllo been gentleman of the bed-chamber to 11,10 Elnperor Maximilian, and came to Madeira in 1483. J~.IOGES. From the Frenchlnan Phili1)po Genlil de Liluoges, 70

Lono. Prom Peclro Lobo, a cnvnlicr in Pltince EIenry's courl. I t was he who brought the letter froin D. Beatrix n11d tha Vicnr of Thomar, forbidding tlie Mndeirense to obey the Bishop of Tangier. LOMI~LINO. From two illustrious Genoese, Urbnno and Baptista Lomelino, in 1470. MACZIDO.From Martim Goac;alvcz de Macedo, one of Icing John 1,'s captains at the battle of Aljubarrota. MATTOB. An ancient uame-begins with Luiz Fernandez de Muttos Coutinho, who came to Madeirn in 1580. He wtbs descended from the Kings of Loon, ~'CJCDINAS. From nu ancicnt Spanish family. M I O This family is connecter1 with the Da Camaraa and tlie Noronlins through Donna Brnncn de Mcllo. MICN~ES.Froin Martim Mendes de Vasconcellos, who was ono of the four nobles sent by Ring John I. to marry %nugo's four daughters. MIAL~IEIRO, now MALIIE~RO. From Pedro Gongalvez Miallleiro, a Portuguese of noble family, in the fifteenth century. MIRANDA. From Josio Lourtngo de Miranda, one of Znrgo'a compnnious on his first voyage to Madeira, and after whorn the Polltn da 6ilo Lourengo is named. From Josio Rodrigues Mondrag~o,a Biscayan MONIIZZAC;~XO. of noble family, who came in 1600. MONK Ono 01the first settlers in Mndeira was Vasco Mar. tiin Moniz do Menezes. MONTIBIRO.Settled in Madcirn duriug the reign of D. 8anol1o I. '77

Cbe Zanb of the U i n e NETTO. From Joiio Rodrigues Netto, a nobleman from Salamanca. He lived in Funchal, and had a street made that the procession of Corpus Christi might pass his house. The street is named Rua dos Nettos. NORONHA.Donna Maria de Noronha was wife to the seco~~cl captain of Funchal. The Quinta dos Padres i t Campanario was the property of this family. ORNELLAS,From Alvaro de Omellas, a, noble of Prince Henry's court, one of the first colonists. PERE~RELLO. From Bartholomeu Perestrello, the first captain of Porto Xanto. PERRY. From Joseph Perry, an English merchant, who settled in 1650. PI~TENTEL. From Pedro Pimentel, a,noble of the royal household. Came to Madeira in 1470, ancl married Da. habe1 Drummond. PINTO. From Lopo Fernandez Pinto, of noble descent. Came in 1500; had grants df the best lands at Santa Anna and the Ilha. POLANCO SALAMANCA.From Francisco de Salamanca Polanco, a native of Burgos, and one of tlie Spanish captains sent to Madeira in 1582. QUINTAL. From Diogo da Costa do Quintal, who built the chapel of N. S. das Angustias on 11%estate. R I ~ o . From Joiio do Rego, d noble of Algarve. RUA. From Alvaro Annes da Run, one of the first colonists, who died in 1471. SANHA. From Manoel Affonso de Sanha, who had layp grants of land from Pontn Delgada to the Lombnda, das Vaccas. He built the church at Ponta Delgada, 78 '

SA~JVMRE, uow SAUVAY~E. From Honorato Sanvaire of Marseilles, who came to Madeira in 1660 as French consul. S ~ I I O M ~ J CExtinct, RG. Their lands were a t Ponta do Sol. Sllaa~c;~an.From Adrian Spranger, a German, in 1600. T~~ctvw.1?rom Diogo de Teive, Prince Henry's squire, who buill tlie first sugnr-mill in Madeira. T E I X I ~ AFrom . Brnnca Tcixeira, who married Tristam Vns, first c n ~ ~ t a iofn Machico. He19 husband took the name of Toixeira, or Teixeyrn, as it was originally spelled. Uzpr,, FI'oI~~ Rily Vnx Usel, s Frenchman who settled at Atnbun. Vnitcins, Frorn C'l~~iatoviioVargas, a Spaniard of noble fi~mily. Orle of the oldest colonists. VAHC!ON~~I,J~Q~. Vrzovr. From Robert Willoughby, an Englishman, whose nnlllo was chnuged to Vizovi. EIe came to Madeira from Porlugnl with his wife, Doiinn Antonia Coibem, in 1690. I5e was a l
First two Settlements.-The first two settlements worc z~,tB'nnchal, allcl M~zcbico,a i d thc iloxt town X~zziltwas Bunta Cmz.' Ponta do Sol was also rm cm3y scttlcinent, and during tlie first years of i l . ~hiet;ol*yacquired a good locd reputation for .-*

p " -

' Cllinptcr VIIIC., Santa Cruz.

1.-8

70

Ube Zanb of tbe Wine the _enterprise of its i~lhabitants. Weaving became and has continued to be a leading industry there ; the ha11d-100111s used to-day are as primitive as those employed two cent~~ries ago. Tile weavers are women, who dyc skilfully wit11 colonring matters made from t11c woocl, bark, and roots of certain trees. Logwood and copperas f ~ ~ s n i s h vasious sbades of pul.plcSandblack ; wild berbesis supplies yellow; madder, red; and walnut, brown. Tlle f~~ll-dress costume of a Macleiraii countrylass is not complete ~vitboutthe cxquisitel y cmbroidered bodice that is best nladc b y the llativcs of Ponta do Sol. In a book recently published it is asserted that in the early days of its settlerncnt " tlie island was divided into districts, which were fofourtecii in number, and are the same a t the prcseat day." This statement will be found to be at variance wit11 the list of the niilc &Iadeiran districts, or concel7~os,as given i11 Chapter IX., under the hc&iug " Adrninistratio~~." The artthor of Ulo seiltellce jnst quoted evidently lost sight of the fact that eve11 a t 110i~-progressiveMadeira " tlia sun do move," as a celebrated coloured preaches once declared. 80

Administration,- The

followii~g changes have beon made in t11c conceZ7tos as originally createcl : The colzcelkos of MAGDALENA and RIBEIRAB ~ A Vhave A became f~eyzlexias,or subdivisioas, of tllc conceZ7t,o of PQNTA DO SOL; PONTA DELG~ADA has bccome a f~eyz6ezictof BA0 VIOENTE ; CANPANARXO, a f~ ~ e y z ~ofe ~CAMARA iu DE L o ~ o;sCANIQO, of SANTA Cnvz ; and PORTO DA. Cnuz, of M~craroo. The col~ceZ7zoof SANTA ANNA is not mcntioncd by tllc author in question, whilc tllo foregoii~gplaces, now ficgz~ezias, arc by hcr liatecl as concelhos. Changes

in

CHAPTER IV THE MODERN HISTORY O F THE MADEIRAS

rectfon of the G a t h e b r a I + - ~ ~ ~was ~cl~ advanced to the ralilc of a city in 1508. It was in this year that the building of the Cathedral1 was begun l ~ King y Malioel and at his expense. 111 1514 the first bishop was appoillted. No villages were started in tlie interior in the early days, for 110 roads 1~adtllen beell built, and the oiily means of getting to Ftzaclial fiom the outlying districts was by the sea ; but settlemellts were rapidly made a t v a r i o ~ ~plaees s along the coast. *De Montluc raids Funcha1.-During tlie administration of the fifth goveraoi*of Madeira, a great calamity befell the illhabitallt~of Funcllal. It was in October, 1556, that Peyrot de Montluc, l For an account and history of the Cathedral, see Chapter V., The Cathedral Externally; Chapter XV., Tho Interior of the Cathedral.

82

Olobertz Pl4fetorv of the Olabetrae sol1 of Marshal de Moatlnc, a most bitter enemy of the IIng~zclzots,was leading llis fleet of warvessels near Madeira, when a violelzt storm dose and drove his fleet into Praya Bay, some three lnilcs west of F~ulclial. It occurred to tlie mpl*inciplcdleader, Montluc, that here would be an cxccllont l~laceto recruit troops, for his ralzlss were somewhat depletcd. at this lime. So he landed a forco and marcheil to t l ~ ocity, where he and his baud took np their abode for fifteen days, during wl~icllthey burnt residences, pillaged cllurclles, and robbed and murdered tlie iahabitalits. The cl*noltiesto wliicl~thoy subjected inally worthy 11coplo Tvere too horrible to record. Murder of Father Roderigo and Nine of his.Brotherhood,-Many of tlla saciad emblems of the churc11 and gold n~lrlsilver orasrnoi~tshad bee11 hidden awny by Fatlier Roderigo at the approach of the rnnreudors. The lattor seized the lloly mail gild in flictcd tcYl*ibletorturcs zzpon him in order to make him disclose the placc in wlzicli Be had hidden the valuables ; but the priest, who was tronsnror of the Brothcrl~oodof tllc S$o Frauciaco Collvcnt, would impart 110 iaformetioa, and died i r ~lha midst of his agony. Chagrillecl by his 88

failure t o secuie the treasures of the priests, Moiltluc murdered all of the brotherhood who had not made their escape. There were nine of these ~zizfortunates. Gaspar Correa is put t o ~eath.--Iu no amiable fiame of mniad, the blood-thirsty 3'1-eizchman led his me11 back towards the town. But, as he dashed down the niouatain road, there was a puff of smoke from the wayside l~edge,and M o n t l ~ ~ c stninbled to the ground from a wound i11 the leg. Whether Gaspar Correa, a promineilt citizen, had fired the shot is not lciiomn, but it was he who owned the premises from whidl the shot; had come, and so he was fouild and put to death. Bombardment of the Cathedral.-The Cathedral of Ftulchal, which had but lately been finished, stood resplendent with a gold roof that glittered in the suaslziae. Taking their leader oil a litter, the marauders were for keeping lzim quiet, but he was now fiaenxied wit11 pail1 and ailgel*, and cried t o his mc11 t o take lzim to the Cathedral. The rays froin the roof flashed in his eyes and dou~blymaddened lzim. So the Cathedral was bombarded, the dead were torn from tlzeir graves, and the priests were put to the sword. 84

tlllobern Fli~torpo f tbe illlnbcfrzle Assassination of Governor d'0rnellas.-%. sliip had been sent t,o P o r t ~ ~ wit11 g d tlie news of tlie Frenoll attack, ancl wit11 the request that tr0011s 130 ~ e n t imincdiately to Faiicbal. Mealiwhile, Snr. D'Or~~ellaa, G;ovclanorof Madeira, was assassi11c~ted. Death of De NContluc,-It was on the fiftecnC11 clay after the death of Fatlticr Rodcrigo that a sumos spread thai; a fleet of Porf;nguesemen-ofwar were sightcd coining ill to atiaclc the Freiich. A great Sear scincd Montlnc's heart, and, mortification of hi8 W O U I I C ~having set in, lze expired. Thcil the invadcrs fled fiom i l ~ town c and scl; sail in tilno.t;ocscalle t11e zlveilging Po~~tugnesc war-ships. Spanish Usurpation of Portugal.-At tlzc time of the Castilian usurpation of Fortngal, in the year IbSO, the Madejras fell into the hands of the Spaniards.' Btlt when the Portuguese ~.cvoltecl ill 1640, ancl a~~cccedecl in re-establishing tbeir iaclc~oondci~cc, t l ~ c yregail~ccl po~sessioiiof tlne Mzlcleirau. Signification of Ilha da Nadeira,-As Before ~~~cntioncd, IZ71cr; da Jfadcsi~a~ means the! isleid of Pliilil)II., King of Spnin, oonquercd Portugal. "n tlla 13nhnma Ielands tllcre is a pnrliculnr tree whicl~ goes by tllc nnme of dfadeira. A strcnm two tllousnl~dmiles l

8G

mood, and was so named, when discovered, because it was covered by dense forests. The Seven Years' Fire.-When settlers came to tlie island they started a fire on the spot wllere the city of Funchal now stands, to inabe a clearlong, and which is the principal tributary of tbo Arnnzon River, is also called the Jfadeira, 011 account of tlie forest8 that cover its banks. Like the majority of Portuguese words, N a d e i ~ abad a Latin origin. I n Julius Cwsall's account of Britain there occurs the following statement : " iI4ate~ia0~1jzt~qtbe geqteris, ut Gallia est; pvceter fagun et nbietsn?,." Portuguese is frequently called the daughter of Latin, because of its remarkable similarity to the old Roman language. The termination nl, in the names of some of tlie towiis and vill a g e ~of Mndeira, is an abbreviation of the Lntin ad.jectivn1 silffix alis. Examples : Funchal, the locality of fonnal ; Funal, a beacon ; Cur~~al, a fold for cattle ; Fayal, where the faya-tree grows ; Seixal, a place of willows. Among the countless Portuguese words that show cliroct derivation from their ~o-calledmother-tongue, the following names are met with by the visitor to Madeira : Porto (Lab., porRls), a port ; Vigia (Lnt., vigilin), a watching-plnco ; Pniil (Lat., paltis), a swamp; Ermids (Lat., e~*emitn),a hermil. Names found among the native families-Pornpills, Cwsar, Augusto, Numa Pompilio-are also suggestive of Roman days, and so are such nppellatians of places ns Ignncio, Xavier, Romeiros, and Antouio. 80

N A T I V E CHILDREN BATHING.

ii~gwhcreoil to build and settle. As has been stated ill tlle concluding paragraph of Chapter II., this fire banlcd for seven years. There are few trecs on the island to-day, excepting where some ~na11forests along the northern coast aind in the ccatral vdlcys still remain? Slavery.-At one period, i11 the early history of tile island, slavos were brougl~tfrom Africa and sold to tlnc Madeiraus. A s early as 1552 there were some two thousaad seven blundred slaves in Madeira, accordillg to the fiimous old clll*onicler, l?mctuoso. I t was not ~ultilafter a servile illanrvl*cc'tion, in 1775, that slavery was abolished in Madcira, by thc dccrcc of Pombal. The liberated acgrocs have since, .from time to time, intermarried with the aativcs of Earol~eaildescent. The deijlc complexioi~s and various pec~zliaritiesof race2 sitd costumes to bc observed amoilg the lower classes of Portuuguese colollists may thus be aocozzntod foi*. Race.-Fnrtlncrmoi-e, inany of tlne Madeirails are x'epntcd to l~nvean admixture of Moorish Chapl;er XX., Trecs. "Chapter XIV., The Social Life. Tn Chaptor XV., native costumes nre described.

l

81)

Cbe Zanb of the Wine blood, first br0ugh.t to the island by the pirates who at one time infested the Mcditerralleail, and who, wl~en vanquished, are believed to have settled in Madeira in largo numbers. Captain Cook's Sojourn in Madeira;-Of the many iioted travellers of by-gone years who sojounlcd in Madeira ibr a time, the celebrated Xi~glish explorer, Cnpt ail1 Janles Cook, inigh t especially be mentionecl. He visited F~ulchal011 his westwarcl voyage of 17G8, ancl. while Ilia ship, the Endeavour, lay at her moorings i11 Funchal Bay, an.zE-ont was offered to the British flag. Thcrc was a British frigate in the bay at tile time: with that dauntless, loyal sl)irit that illarks the character of the l~igli-bredEaglilicahman, Captain Coolc proml>tly.ilotiiicd the frigate's coinrnailder that lze was ready to join in s battle against the olt fcndera. Fire was thcroupoi~opencd, and directed principally ngaiilst the Loo Roclr fort. The cngagemcnt was a short oae, but t11c Madcirans were the su@erers, and lcarncd a lessoil $bat they did not soon forgct. The oficial report of the fight was kept secret by govcrninen1;al commaad, but it was chronicled by 0110 Forster, a i d later made public. 90

Captain Cool: called a secolid time at Mtldcira in 17'72. 111 16s snbsequent account of this later visit he rcinarked upon the great number of blacks inhabiting h e island, in the bondage of alavcry aild as fiecmcn. It was but two years later that Pombal'e decree was, published for the enzancipation of slavery in Madeira, British Occupancy of Madeira,-In 1801 Madciiqa, was occupied by British troops, and again in 1807 it bccamo a Bl,itisli s.trongl-lold, ~ v h i citl ~remaiacd dnring thc iilvasioil of Poi*t~zgalby the 3'1-each, ancl until t l ~ oclosc of the Contilieiltal war in 1814. Napoleon brought to Madeira.--The defeatcd Rml)wo~.Na,l>oleon, :&a a prisoiler of war, was bi-otzght to Madeiila *in 151.6, bcfoi~cbcing convcycd to tlio islnl~dof St. IIelena. The Revolution of 1823,-Althongh usually chi~oniclcdin Portngucsc llistory as a rcvolntion, the sit~zationa t Nadcira in 1823 was not sncli a8 iiz any way to warrant thc view which t l ~ m e othcrcountry, Portugal, toolc of it. It wizs 0110 of the many iaslaucos wl-lcrc tho aims and vicwa of the Madeil-ans hnvc bceh wrongly misinterpreted by the pcoplc? of tllc motl~e~~-connti*y. Urldor the tuition of tllc priests tllc Madcirails had, long 01

'izhe Zanb of tbe Wine before the year 1823, learned to regard tllc constitutioil of a fice goverilmeilt as a t~~aasgl.ession against thc Divine will. I-Iencc they rejoiced in bondage. But, notwitl1sta11dingg this fitate of affairs in Madeira, reports came to Lisbon through some vcngcailce ssclting politicians, in the year 1823, that Madeiraiis had riscn i11 opc11 robellion against their llorne goven~mcnt. 111anticipation o f a bloody contefit rcgimentfi and artillery werc hastily despatcliecl by a flcct of vessels from the port of Lisbon to F~znchal. Gr~cat waa the astoi~ishmentof the tlSool)son landillg to filcl, instead of resistance, a grcat throng of peol~letrtnled out to welcorne them. Their nrrival was cos~siderodan occasioil al~pi~op~.iato for fefitivities in their 11011011r; and the few malcoatci~ta fiom whom the rumors of an prising llacl originated-and who had seci*etlyplauaed to fire the blood of the natives, and hence to bring about an uprisii~g,by bringii~gt l troops ~ down 111~oiz them-found themselves obligccl to retire with thc scant solace that " Party is the rnadiless of illany ibr the gain Bf a few," and in tllia caae tllo few had no inflmence over t11e maay. It was thcn unadvisable to ful*thcr endeavour to incito tho 02

nativcs to itcvolt. But the leaders of the newly landed Portuguese forces, ~niableto appreciate thc quiet statc of affairs whicll they had not looltcd ibr, becaine despotic. Under their regime tllc inaocenl; were suspectect aiid imprisoned. Dcl?ositions werc talteii in secret from accuseils, thus allowiilg cliaiices'for false accusations and c; ucccss in apitcf~~l rtvenge. Those wishii~gindel)eiideiit govcrnment might have been able at this time to h a v ~created rcvolt had not tlic Maclcirai~sbeen all-endnriag and uacoinplaining. Civil Wars.-Madeira shared with the motllercountry i11 tlie civil wars between retainers of tlzc z~enrpingking Dom Miguel a i d the arty of X10111 Pcdro, yvhicl~,~ooilafter Do111 Miguel's c:o~*onation, began in 1828 a i d lasted until the icing resigncc1the t11roiic in favour of Doin Pcdro's dnz~glitor. Coronation of Donna Maria.-Dom Pcdro had made aver whatever rights hc hiiilsell yossessed to tlw P o r t ~ ~ g n c crown sc to his daughter Doinla Marizl, who was crowi~cdQueen of Portugal in .l;hc ycnr 18i3.3, IIcr father, hdwever, dicd during ihc next year, and ~11el~crselfdiccl, in childbil.tl1, ill 1853. 03

Ube Zanb of the Wltze Dom Pedro V., the Wise and Just Ruler.--Dom Pedro V. thcil acceded to tlie throne, and during his reign the Madeirails contiaued to enjoy the peace and prosperity which began after the retirement of Dom Mignel. Doln Pedro V. proved himself to be a mail of intelligence and high aims, who sllowed great ability as a scholar, a statesman, and a ruler. The extraordil~ary interest and energy which he displayed in all -tmdertakings to promote his country's welfare so endeared him to his people that his death, in 1861, was more deel~lylczineilted thail that of day of his 12redecessors. Reign of Dom Luiz 1.-He was succeeded, on November 11,1861, by Don1 Luiz I.,under wllose reign Madeira coilti~iuedto share in a Portuguese epoch of peace. The First Ocean Cable.-A higllly importaat era in the history of Madeira was inaugurated by the establishment of telegraphic comiulzication with the American and European coatinents. This great enterprise was s~zccessfullyaccomplished by the Brazilian S~fimarineTelegraph Company, wl~ich,in the year 1874, laid lines fkom Pernamb-tzco to Lisbon by way of St. Villcent, of the 94

moberlz Flietor(i, of the mabefrae Cairo Verdes, and Madeira? Many fetes and festivities were held a t Funchal in commemoration of this anspicious event, which ma~*kedthe bcgilli~ingof n ilcw el~ochin the progress of the Maclciraa. Don1 Lniz died October 9, 1889,2 and the writcr, wlio was in Madeira a t the timc, witilessed n ccrcmony bilown as " the Brcalting of tlie Crowi~,"~ which tulies place six weelts after tlle deatll of a P o r t ~ ~ g u c sruler, o in all the varions lallcla a i d proviilccs over which he 11as held sway duiillg his lif~t' = Imc. Dom Carlos I., the Present King.--On the accesaioii of Doln Cai*losl.,tllc clder soil of Dom Luiz, a com1)licstion of diflicaltics arose. His greatrtnclc, I'edro IT., tllc Einljcvor of Brazil, was dclh~onc?cl,z111cT. a republican government was est;ablishcd in Brazil. This radicil cl~angcin the Soi~nof g o v c r i i ~ n ~ iill~ tt l ~ cgrc:~test of Sonth ~ i ~ n o r i c aconizlric~ ii went into eflcct November 16,1889, a,nd, as so011 as it bccamc known in the moi,be~*-coul~l~y, c!i*catcd all omi11011s stir ill the -

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p

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VClhi\ptedXVI., Cnbla Communication. ~ 1 1 d ~ tXITI., or Dcspotio Law. l' Cht11)tor XV., Tllo Brc~~lring of' the Urown. YG

ranks of the Portuguese republican party, which had been for many years growing i11 numbers and influence. Dethronement of the King is advocated.-The leaders of the party bailed the news of the new republic wit11 great joy, holding that the event foreshadowed a similar change in the P o r t u g ~ ~ e s e government ; and the democratic press of Lisbon recommended the dethrollemellt of the new sovereign. Victory for Dom Car1os.-Bnt the king's retainers were stanch and loyal. D ~ ~ r i athe g mriter7s stay on the islaad, and shortly after the dethronement of the emperor, a Braziliail war-vessel put into Funchnl Bay, flying the flag of the new government. The Governor of Madeira ordered that the new colows should not be recognised, and the cal~taillof the Braziliail vessel was obliged to hoist the emperor's flag. The African Question.-The African question res seated another diffic~~lty that arose t o confront Dom Carlos. Serpa Piato,l Brito Capello, and Roberto Ivens returned to Lisbon after making a thorough stndy of the gcogrsl~l~y of Afiica. Chapter XIXI., British Monopoly of the Commerce. 96

The oi*iginal Portuguese settlements a t Angola alad Mozambique had been mmely ports for the convei~ienceof the aatiolld maritime commerce ; and ilie tronble which had been brewing for years with the English over the pcstion as t o how much of the interior back of the Portuguese coast se.ltlernents 1.ightly beloilged to Portugal came to licad. The Eaglislz, who controlled adjoining l~rovin?es,claiined that tlle Portuguese had not attended to the settlement or civilizatioil of tllo porlions of the interior which they claimed, a i d by thciiqsupcrior power the English gained inz~clzof tlieir ground. The high spirit of the Portuguese was wouuded not only by the painS111 contrast between their past greatness and their present wcalgless, but also by the stand vhicl:l1thc Englisll government and peol~lle,their ancieilt allics, now took towards them : the London p r e s n ~ a sllighly anta~onistic. The Portuguese Historians, and their Patriotic pride.-h natiollal 111-idcinstilled by the model-U Pol~lugncscbiatorinns, who are ever at great pains to keep the glories of old Portugal well in the ror~~embrancc of the present gener,zt'ion, causes tho l~col~lo to bo cpidr to rescnt any iufringement I.-0

97

Ube %anb of tbe Wine 1zpo11 their rights, and t o adhere t o t h e i ~independeizce and cry down " " Iberianism." Wheil the tidings of England's supremacy in regard to the African question reached Madeira, the more turbulent 11atives of Portuguese descent were stirred to sac11 bitter rcseiltniel~t against the Englisl~resideilts as to lead them in soille cases to acts of personal violence and to rioting ;l but peaceable relatioas with the colonists, on W~IOSC wealth and enterprise the islandcrs priiicipally rely for maintenance, wcrc quicldy resumecl. The Present Queen.-Dom Carlos I., the present king, was born Scptenlber 25,1863. He mawied on May 22, 1856, before his accession, tbo Priilcess Marie Amdie de Bo~z~bon,eldest daughter of the Comte dosParis. Both kisg and queen have the same natal day.2 The now Heir Apparent, Priilce Royal, Luiz Filippe, Dnque of Braganza, was born Ma1-cl1 21, 1887. Despite the fact that P o i ' t ~ ~ is g ~ ~comparatively l small liiagdom, the rulc~.,Do111 Carlos I , is pos-

' Chapter XIII., The Fight of 1889. Chapter XVI.,LETTER pnoM UNITED BTATES CONSUL J o s TO ~ T ~ WRITER, E Natal Dtly of the Kin6 and Qileen, a

08

sessecl of a greater aumber of titles than any other liping sovereign. The Queen's Character.-IIer Majesty is a young woillan of thirty-five years of age, q~~eeilly, accomplished, and possessed of a rarely dashing and daring spirit. She is broad minded, cl~aritable, n great student, and has many wide and val-ied interests for the welfase of her people. D ~ l r i n gthe past several years she has beell parsuing the study of medicine, and she recently established a public clinic a t the Ijoyd Palace in Lisbon. Qnceii Marie Amdlie is withal athlctic a n d takes illfillite pleasure in various forms of pl~ysicalexercise. She is a very fine swimmer : Illdeed a humble fishermall near Lisbon owes his life t o a dsl>ingdeed she 1-ecentlypesformed. This l i a ~ l ~ e i ~inethe d following marines : For some time past the royal family had beell stayillg at Cascaes, a short distailce west of Lisbon, and a favourite resort during the l;athing scason. One day in the latter part of October of the past year (1900) a fishermnil named Catalgo, 11,zving just landed the p e e n fiom a row-boat, was tnlviiinghi8 little craft al-ound, when it .suddei~ly cal~aizedand he fell into the water. EIer Majesty, 09

Gbe Zanb of the Wl~ze without an instant's hesitation, pluilgecl illto tlie sea and reached Catalgo, wllo was sinlring. Two fishermen, who were near by, rnsl~edto her assistance and the mail was talien ashore; i t was found that one of 11is legs was broken. Catal8.o was carried t.o tlle royal residence, where 11c received every care. The King's Character.-The king is an able mail, slid he surely needs to be to solve ~visclythe knotty problems which constalltly conS~*onthim. He has a noble bcariiig, is posscsscd of courage and deteriniaatioa, and, like the queen, is pl-rysically as well as mentally active. A devoteo of athletics, he was, before his accesaioa, Sond of taking a minor part in bull-figl1ts.l 0 1 1 such occasioi~she iavariably preservecl his incogaito. I t is related in court circles that 11c oncc undertook tlie chief part in a bull-fight, a lady haviizg dared him to do so, and ncarly lost 11;s lifc. AB he wa8endeavoming to avoid an onslaught of tlie maddelled bull, lie slippecl and fell. Fortunately, the cries of tlic spectators, many of whom know the king, diveibtedthe beast's a1;tciltioil for a 1110ment ; and in that illomeilt Doln Ca~losmanagod Chaptor XV., Bull.Fighting. 100 . l

1

mobern atfetorp of the mabefrae to scramble LIP and make a rush for the barricade, which he cleared just i11 time to escape being gored t o death. The king is quoted as l~aviagsaid that he '' did those twenty yards in record time, and the bull was a good second." Why Madeira is Especially Interesting to the World.-Of recent years Madeira has become especially iilterestiag to the world not only on account of its famous wines: but slao because of its ssll~~brious atmosphere, wl~ichis remarkably curative for invalids ;2 its usefulness as a port of call for steamers from all parts of the world;a and witl~alits marvellons beauty as an island gem amid ever-slliniag seas. Chapter XXIII., The Vine and the Wine. a Chapter XVI.,A Wateripg-Place and Health Resort; Chapter XI., W a r n i n g to the Invalid. "Chapter VI., All about Steamship Routes ; Chapter XVI., Steamers to Madeira. l

Part 11 L

Crnvel nnb 5 f ~ b t ~ 5 e e t n ~

c PANORAMA OF FUm*nmL-SECTION

L

PANORAMA OF FUNCHAL-SECTION

111.

PANORAMA O F FUNCHAL-SECTIOx

IV.

CIIAPTER V LANDING AT MADEIRA

abet rn from tbe 5ea,-The approach .to Madeira by ship in fair weather

a,Korda one of the most sublime and bcuuf;iful spectacles to be witnessed anywhere ill tllc world. Before the aea-weary vision the verdant i n o ~ u ~ t a iisle n towers in a, glistening haze, ailcl appears like some realm of cncl~antmeat 1,llat 111ight readily be looked upon as the Kingdom o f Nept1111e. In Funchal Bay.-It is only when the ship e11tel.s t11a l)ay1 and draws near to s ~vlliteand yellow d a curving beach1 city, stretching i l l l a ~ ~from through a valley and u p the gentle slopes of cs~urroundiaghills, that the wondering bellolder car? fully realize that he has come to a habitation of men, aild aoi; of gods or of water-sprites. Be-

' ~ l l l l l l ~ 0XVI., r LETTERFROM UNITED STATEEI CONSUL Jo~rceTO TIIE WRITER,The Bay and its Shipping. 109

&be Zanb of tbe 'P1Qlii1e yoild the hill-enclosed city t l ~ emo~ultai~ls rise psecipitously in coulltless ranges, and lift their sllowyl suinlnits illto regions of mist. Fleecy clouds, drifting across the rays of the sun, cause a play of strange shadows up011 these monsters of eartll and roclr. Enterprising Natives.-But from this spectacle the ti*avellcr tnras when there rises sl dill of wrangling voices near a t hand, a i ~ dtllc dcclcs become trailsfonned into the stalla d a bazaar. For the vessel has beell sun.onnded b y small csafts, ill many of wlzich natives have come with various wares to sell to the passengers. Einbroidery, basket-woslc, and otllcr l~rodoc%sof uative industry aile oEerec1, and tropical fiuits aild Rowers are displayed in rich 1~roSi1sioa. Native Swimmers,-Under the vessel'a side and scudding about alnong the scows of the merchailtmen aye to be seen the tiny egg-shell boats of the swimmers,-swarthy, blaclr-l~airedfellows, almost naked, and with s l l i ~ y ,olive-coloz~red ,skins. They float ancl pose up011 the billows or s p a t at the edges of their little crafts, all gesticulating and malriag grimaces like monlreys the ,

Chapter IX., Snow. l10

while? and blendiag clamorous shouts with the ware-cryillg voices of the trades-peol~le. It call be Beell that the swimmers are holding themselves ~ o i s e dfor immediate diving, and, tl~oughtheir cries may sound like ullilltelligible gibberish to the ear unfamiliar wit11 Portnguese, their meani i ~ g ,nevertheless, is quickly conveyed by their violcilt gestures. So the amusement-seeking passenger tosses a coin overboard to see a doze11 litlie lorms plunge into the water and coiltest below the surface for the coveted prize. They l ~ s v 1c10 fear of sharks, which are rarely seen off the soutliern coast, though, the water being remarlrably clcar and the s~~btropical sun's rays almost perpendicular and as penetrating as a stzbmarine search-light's, many other varieties of mollster fish are to be seen gliding about at no great depth. As the health and custom-house officers are tardy callers, and as no one can leave the ahip ~ultilafter their arrival, many passengers join in t l ~ epastime of coin-tossing. Then the swimmers form groups apart to avoid collisioas, aad to occupy the various positions advantageous for securillg coins. As each individual seeks t o attract tile attention of the coin-tossers to him111

Cke Zattb of tbe Wine anrl to drown the voices of his comrades by the louchless of his own shout, the reslxlt is a bedlam. It is timely here t o remarlc that t l ~ e Madeirans are world-fanlous swimmers : the dayillg feats wlzic11 they pel-form in the water call llowhere be aurpassed. Where Sharks abound.-Off Che ilortheri~coast of the island, where ground-sharks,l the most dangerous species of the. shark family, fi~eqnent the water, natives have Beell lcilowil to swim while graspillg nil sheathed daggers, and to a t tack and despatch the man-eater as it t ~ ~ m 011 sits side to assailants in twain. bite its vent~zl~efi;omo Deep-Sea Divers.-Again, it is autl~ol-itatively recorded that two of tliese fellows Bravely rescued B vessel that had been ~torm-drivenagainst some rocks. With the water pouring in tl~rongha hole in 11er hull, the vessel had begun to sinlr, wl~eil they volunteered to ti.y and save her. N o divers' armour did they have to put on, but, instead, they stripped tlzeir bodies t o liakedness, and, ,graspiilg bales of oalcum, sllrzilg into t h e turbulent sea. a r e they real~pearedabove t h e surface the vessel bad righted herself 1113011 an eve11 lreel Chapter XXVI., Marine Varieties of Fish. 112

and ceased to founder. For the natives had dived to the l~laccof t l ~ elealc and l~ushedtheir wadding against it, wl~eathe l~owerfulsuction of the inrushing water drew it illto the hole with such forc'as effectually to plug it until the crew could drain the hull. of its briny flood and cr,mplete the caulking Gorn within. The dive~sabout the iiewly arrived ship perform many s k i l f ~ ~antics, l and at lengtl~one, more daring than his comrades, volunteers, for a shilling, to dive from midway up the mast, clear of the ship, into the water, and ul~clerthe The anio~tnthe asks for is tendered by the passeiigers, and he thereupoa clambers with mo~lkeylike agility 011 to the decks and up illto t-lle rigging. Whcn he reaches the positioll whence he has prolnised to take his long leap, be poises himself, tllell s w k a forward and speeds head-first into the air. Clearing the vessel's side by a hair's breadth, he cleaves the water with scarce a splash, aucl vanishes so swiftly that an ollloolrel. of the iilstant might be deceived into thfnkii~ghe had witnessed the disal~pearanceof an arrow sent from the bow of an arcller. The ship's passengem who have watcl~edt l ~ centire performance 113

Cbe Zanb of tbe Wine rush across the deck, where. they await the reappeasance of the diver. After about a minute a i d a half of breathless suspense the fellow lifts up 11i~head rulconcenledly to announce the accoinplishment of his feat. Health Officers and Hotel Agents.-On the arrival of the health officers the hotel proprietors promptly come alongside in row-boats propelled by awarthy oarsmen. For, as F ~ u c l l a lis provided with no wllarves, vessels cast anchor a few hundred yards distant from the city front and mload cargoes and passeuge~sillto crafts provided for their conveyance t o the shore. Qnding in Former Days.-111 earlier days it was the custonl to land passeagess in long boats. These were beached on tile breakers' crest and. p~llledclear of the dashing spray by meails of a sope t h ~ ~ o w over n the projectiag prow and attachcd at the other end to a yoke of oxen. But when, as not infrequently occurred, the oxen failed to respond a t the right instant to the goads of their drivers, the wave, in the walce of the breaker on whose crest the boat had beell safely borne, curled and broke upon the passengers, sometimes giving them a thorough drenching. 114

LOO ROCK F O R T A N D T H E N E W

BREAKWATER

Present Manner of Landing.-Tl~e method of receiving ~isitorsto the island has recently been inqch iinproved by the co~lstructiolzof a small picrl t ~ the t new b r e a k ~ a t e r . ~llere passeagers call be landed il! .the rongbest weatller witllont undergoing ally risk of t l ~ eunwelcome batll'to which formerly they were often an1.jected. The Custom-House.-I-Izlvillg decidcd upon the liote18 which promises to affol-dthe most suitable and satisfactory accommodatioi~sfor one's self and party, the prospective guest does well to placc his (or her) various articles of luggage in chm~geof the hotel proprietor or ageat, who invariably coincs aboard the ship, and wllo call be of considcl-able service in passing things through the cnstom-l~ouse. The guests wl~oentrust their lccys to the liotcl representative are saved the trouble of liaving to appear at the custom-house in pcrson, and can upon lunding proceed to theil* dcsl;iastion without delay. After havillg beeu colivcyed to the shore, all baggage is taken direct "Chapter XVI., LK~TER FRonr UNITEDSTATES CONSUL J o ~ r c s xqrInWEITER,The New Pier. Ibidom, The Broakwnter. U Bco CliapLer VI., Hotels, 117

to the custom-house and promptly examined. The charges are light. Table-linen, bed-linea, made-1111 clothing, aud various articles of wearQgapl~arelthat 72uae 6een in use pass freely wheii brought with the passenger. Clotl~ingsubseqx~e~itly imported, however, is subject to a heavy duty. All tobacco must be declared, and an amount exceeding four pounds in weiglit is subject to coi~fiscationand fine. Any quantity not above .fifty grammes (about an ouilce and threequarters avoirdupois) is permitted to pass, and all beyoild that dlowallce to the weight of f o ~ ~ r ~ o u n d sis adkitted subject to taxation. It is advisable for sojo~znlers-even thong11 they intend to relit n quiiltal and keep house for a scason in Madeira-to bring as little silver, plateclware, and f~~rnitnre as possible, for, while sue11 articles are admitted on bond for re-ex~ortation, co~~siclerable trouble attaches to the effcctiag of'the various al.rangerneiits necessary with the officials. Ticket of Residence Requirement.-The ticket of residence, which every new-corner is required to hold before forty-eight hours have elapsed after

' Quinta, Portuguese for cottage ; see Chapter VI., Furnished Houses ; Servanh ; Marketing. 118

T H E LANDING-PLACE

AND CITY

FRONT.

arrival,' call be procured by tlze manager of the hotel a t which one is staying. It is probable that tlze law requiring these ticlrets will ere long be rcpealed. When a Passport is Necessary.-The law rcquires that the foreigiler who is leaving Madeira for any co~ultryexceptiilg PO]-tugalshould have a passport if he has been on the island for a period exceeding thirty days. One passl~ortsuffices for an entire family. It call he obtaizled a t an office in the Alfaildega on the payment of eighteel1 huuldred reis (about $1.80 or seven shillings) nild on tbo exl~ibitioaof the co11sul's certificate, wlliclz is obtaiuable of the consul representing the country to which 4116 foreigner bclong~. Countries having Consuls in Madeira,-T11e following is a List of the Consullar OiEcers in Madeira in 1900 : Germany Austria Hongnry Belgium Spain

Dr. Georg Fr. Sattler

Col~sul

Carlo de Bianchi

Consul

Chaptcr XIV., A Thrilling Aclvesture; A Hair-breadth Esonpe. 1.-7

121

Carlos M. de Bianchi, Jr. Vice Consul Spain Consul Denmark Charles J. Cossart United States Thomas C. Jones Consul W. J. G. Reid Vice Consul United States Liberia W. J. G. Reid Consul EIizeu deSousaDrummond Consul Venezuela Dr. Cesw A. Mourgo PittaVice Consul France -I Greece Italy Ferdinando M. cle Bianchi Consul Sweden and Norway J. Ernest Blandy Consul Holland Consul British John Bowring Spence British Henry Mercer Bell Vice Consul Argentine Julio Zamorano y Gonzalez Vice Consul Chile John H. Payne Vice Consul Ur~iguay Carlos Luiz de Freibas Vice Consul Russia John F. Welsh Vice Consul Dr. C. C. Silvae Saboya Vice Consul Brazil

Modes of Conveyance,-On steppiilg ashore new arrivals undergo their initiative experieiice wit11 the crowd of gaping natives, which they discover hi due course of time to be omnipresent in all streets of the populated districts. Tllc rcqui1.emeilts of the onstuin-house having beon drily observed, the choice of an omaibas or of one of the two native modes of conveyalloe to respectiv~ desti~ationss i to be made. 122

The Redo and the Carro.-The swartliy Bearers of the rdclel (a l~ainmoclcslung from a pole which is supported at either end by a carrier) staid grouped on oilc side of the thoroughfare, wl~ere tliey "bow and scral3e'' to attract attention, while the clrivers of the cawos2 (Bullock-cass ino~ultedoil rlulners and hung with bright-colowed cartains, wliich serve to keep off the draft aild the silll a11d can be drawn or opeiled at pleasure) stand at the heads of their respective liorned teams and beclcol1 to the new arrivals with beaming connteaances, expressive of their conficlence-wliich is rarely misplaced-of 'l securing the fains." For further information" regarding this conveyance and the rates at which it can be hired, see Chapter VII., Where the Rede is desirable. Excepting several omnibuses (Chapter XVI., LETTER FROM

UNITET) STATESCONSULJONESTO THE WRITER, Om-

nibuses), and ten or a dozen carriages imported and owned by wealthy English residents, there are no wheeled vehicl6s on the island, and the universal native conveyance, the carro or sledge, was invented, in the early part of this century, by an Englishman. Prior to the carro's introrluction, transportation was accomplished on the backs of beasts of burden and of carriers. See Chapter XXIV., Cattle-Raising; Beasts of Burden. 125

Ube Zanb of tbe Ulfne The Superior Conveyance.-Owing to ii1expel.icnce, new-corners almost iavariably pass the rBde, with curious but suspicions glance, slid select the carro for their transportation, with a degree of self-satisfaction which is amusing to one who lias already leariled what they will snbscquently discover-that the rBde is the superior conveyance for case and comfort, and cqually as safc as the carro, the rBde-bearers being remarkably powerfill and sure-footed. Cwro Rates of Hire

.

. . . . . . . 400 reis. . . . 60,000 " . . . . . 4,000

Per hour in Funchal . Per month, anywhere about the island To Camara do Lobos ancl return To S. Roque or S. Martinho

. .

.

. . .

"

1,600

"

The carro is four-seated, while tile basket-car, a much lighter conveyauce, i~ two-seated, ancl, is preferable on excursions among steep hills. It can often be hired on more reasonable ternia than the carro. A Ride through the Streets of Funcha1.-Let tllo ~aeaderstake their firat view of Ili'uucha,l streets fiom the ca~ro,l containing the iaexl~erienced Iron frame-work supports the top of the conveyanoc, t h e roof of which is made of black enamelled cloth. The front 126

T H E EVER-COBBLED STREET.

new-corners. The driver darts his oven by prodding them with an iron-yointed sticlr, a,ad a boy runs ahead and g~lidestheir co~wseby means of leather thollgs attachecl to the horils of olle of the animals and grasped in each of his hands. I t is also a duty of one of the teainsters at short intervals to place a piece of grease-soal<ecl clot11 np011 the roadway in 8.~1~11 a position that the rlulners of the cawo may pass over it, and thus oil their way along. Anotller czzsto~n of the teamsters is to lierald tile approach of their paasei~ger-ladencolweyailce by a triumphant shouting, which they continue almost incessantly in atontoihiai~, ncvelt-tiring voices. Street. Paving.--The streets are covered with sn~all,closely paclced cobble-stones, which receive a higli degree of polish and also considerable grease from the l~zbl.icatedI.nnilers of the numesand bnclr of the cwro are hung wit11 white cotton cloth, while the sides are curtained with a cloth of some bright colour looped back from either side of either entrance or let to fly loose, according to the preference of the occupant. As the carro boy runs ahead of the oxen, or at their aide, to jab then1 with bis prong, he cries, " Ca ca ooa ca para mi boi I" Signifying in English, " Here, hither, oh, hither to me, oxen I" 120

Che Zanb of tbe ';aTCLfne ous conveyances collstailtly passing over them. Whcnever t l ~ egrease-rag is ~roduced,inmates of the carro must brace theinselves for the jolt which illvariably follows the rag's applicatioii beneath the mnaers. Narrow Highways,-Slipping, sliding, and jolt.. iilg along, the carro passes t111.ougll many ~ I ~ ~ T O W , dirty, wiliding by-ways, closely wallcd 011 either side by squalid, one-story buildiags, a t tile doors and wil~dowsof which the iizl~abitaatsappear to watch the passers-by. Family parties aro intcrrnpted i11 the hi@-road, and must re-enter tlzcir various abodes or flatten thelnsclves against theii) walls to avoid being rrzn over by the goaclcd oxen. Along the Boulevard.-sndclcnly the cailro swings aronlid a shar13 corner and crosses nil extensive boulevard to the shopping aide of itw pavecl ,street, that extends along eitlicr margin of ita elevated, tree-shadcd avenue. Scenes by the Wayside,--Tho merry jingling of bells on the blooded bullocks of private coilvoyanccs, the cries of many teamsters, aiicl the occasional strains fro111 guitar, mandolin, and mnc72&~,~ thrnmmed by wayside idlers : all tl~esesorznda p

l

Chapter XIV., Music and Musical Instruments. 130

31'U

,

,

,

.-,

-n3.d @&.> ,

1

j . ...:

v.-; J:,.~CT ': I,.

:

,

.~ . " . .,'.'> .-. , '

.-d.

..,.

., .:

;

.

T H E CATHEDRAL.

are in harmony with the scene, which at once impresses visitors as foreign and fascinating. Shops.-Gaily painted sign-boards before the shops attract the eye, and scrutiny discovers them t o contail1 pictorial lists of the establishmeats' mellchandise, wllicl~ is thus advertised to the natives, who are rarely scl~ooledin the art of spellii~g? The Cathedral Externally.-At one end of the boulevard-and facing Cathedral Spare, which is a coatin~~atioa of the arboured avenue-stands the C a t h e d ~ a l . ~Of semi-Gothic, semi-Italiali archit;ectul.e, this edifice is built after the pla11 of a Roman cross ; its single tower, rising at the 110rtl1 cori~ert o the height of one li~~i~clred and thirteeil feet, is highly imposillg, and suggestive of a rnoilu~neiltto a by-gone age. The aulnmit is tlie l~oiiitof a Dutch-tiled spire, that contains I t is now required by law that all children shall attend public school, but the fact that the single public educational institution of Funchal numbers but one hundred and oigl~tyscholars does not argue well for the law's enforoement, "Chapter IV., Erection of tlie Cathedral; Bombardment of the Cathedral ; Chapter XV., The Interior of the Cathedral. 133

Cbe "danb of tbe mine a clock. The spire snrmouuts the battlements of the tower, which is four-coraered, and contains the bells. The sun's rays falliug upon the glazed surface of the tiles cause them to shiile like burnished gold, while pallll-trees sway their flowering snillmits in the backgro~uld. The Residence Quarter.-But the carro enters a side-street, and the scene is changed. Private Gardens.-Behind the far-stretching stone walls, topped with ugly sl~ardsof brolrc~l glass,l rise terraced gardens that abotllld in tropical plants and flowers. Bxuberaat flowers and foliage2 droop over their confines into the street and fill the air with fragraace ; while occasionsll glimpses are afforded, between the breeze-swept trees oil the terraces, of tlie private residences to which the gardens aly?el.tain. The Ubiquitous Lizard,-Co~ultless little lizards3 claiilber up the stone walls and peep from betweell the crnmbling cllinks. These sharp fragments of glass are cemented with their points upward into the tops of the walls to exclude trespagsers. a Chapter VII., Madeiran Horticulture; Clinpter XIX., Flowering Plants ; Chaptcr XXSSI., Scarlet Gerani urns. Chapter XXVII., L ~ Z L L Y I ~ ~ . 154

A P R I V A T E RESIDENCE.

Arrival at the Hotel.-At length tlle carro turns another corner and ~ I ~ W1113S before the hotel. T h e guests alight and pass fr-0111the glare of the aunlit street through a cool, inasoilried corridor 1.0 the 11.otel office. How 1;o avoid Sunstroke.-Having made a selection af rooms, i t is advisable to retii8e thither for z~ resl; ere venturing oat into the tornil again. The l)erpmdict~larrays of the Madeira11 soon-tide e m are especially dangerous1 for the new-corner I;o cnco~ulter: s~ulstrolceis frequently the result of too great activity before becoming acclimated. h thol-ongli 1.eeuperatioa ill the shady gardens dmbing the mid-day hours is recommended. Diet for the New-Corner.-Great care and modcl-ation as t o the diet should also be observed.' M c s t o u g l ~ tnot to be eaten oftener than twice a (lay, and one should also be abstemious in pari.zllting of native wines and filuits. .---- Chapter VII., Where the Rbde is desirable; Chapter X.I., I-Iumidity ; Air. "Chapter XI., Health, and how t o keep it. l

CHAETER V1 STEAMSHIP ROUTES TO MADEIRA

; ISOTELS

AND

BOARDING-ISOUSES I N THE TOWNS AND VILLAGES.

aeeenger Steantete, -Amollg

the largest and ill every way first-class passcsger lines whose steamers call at Madeira1 are the following.

Steamers from New York.-X-Iamnburg-America11 Line. Office: No. 37 Broadway, New Yorlr. The "Auguste Victoria," a twin-screw express The writer has selected certain of the representative lilies for description to show the various countries from which Madeira can be reached direct. H e does not believe a detniled account of every line whose vessels call at Madeira woulcl be of sufficient value to justify the necessary increase in the bulk of this vol~~me.A complete list of the regular lines oP steamers to Madeira will, however, be found in Cllnpfer XVI., under the heacling of '(An Account of Madeira ia 1897," by United States Consul Jones. 138

steamer of this line, offers transportatioll to Madeira at the elld. of every January, when it starts 011 its annual cruise to the Orient. I t s gallant colnmander,Carl Kaernpff,"i a11 able and efficient seal~lan,m d one of the several famous captains of tllc transatlalltic liaers. A t ally time of the year a delightfnl voyage can be had by an express atcamer of this line to Southampton. The day of clepnrturc is Thursday, and arrival at Sonthamptoil i~ due on tlie same day of the following meek. The stcainers of the Uilioil Steainship Conlpauy ancl the Castle Mail Packets Company maintain, jointly, a weekly service from Sout11au3ptoa to Gape Town, Africa, callil~gat Madeira 011 the third or fourth. day out. (Sec Lines from Engla11d t o Madeira.) As the day of sailiug fiom 8011tl1,zinpton is usually Saturday, the passengers albriving from America 011 Thursday can make comfortable coanection. Should the traveller (Icsire a more direct route, however, or prefer t o make the entire voyage from N e ~ vYork to n/md.eira througl~southern seas, the followillg may be recommended to his attention. I'ior7c.-Insular Navigation Colxpally. Q a c e : No. 20 Broadway, New Y0l.l~. Adoll~h 139

Falck, gei~cralpassenger agent. Pnsscngers for Madeira arc traasfer1.cd at St. Michael or Fayal, of the Azores Islands, by t l ~ cstcamcla of the Insular Navigation Cbmpany's Madci~saservice, whicli sail a~ follows : from Fagal 011 the 28th of every rnoi~th; froin St. Micllacl on the 30th of cvcry month. Passengers booli.ed t h r o ~ g hto Lisboil have the privilege of remaining on the Azores at their leisnibc, talcixlg t l ~ ecompany's stcall~erfor Madeira, and thencc continuing t11eil1jounley t o Lisbon when ready; ill thic; case, how eve^, yasseilgcrs ~nnintninthcmselvcs while on slloia. Rates fvonz, New TTorlc Firs1 Cnbin.

. . . $50 = $10 6s. Gd. . . 75 = 15 8a. . . . . 76 = l5 8s.

To tllo Azores . To Mnclcirn via Azores To Lisbon . .

It is c~zstoin~ry to malic a reduction of five per cent. fro111 i11c above ratcs for round-trip cabin ticltcts if tllcso are ~?nrcl~ascd 11efo~ol.eclel>zlrturc fionz New Porlc. Tbo voyage fro111 New Yorle to tlie Azolles occupies from. eight to iliile days, and Chat fi-0111 t11,e Azores to Madeira froni one to two days. 140

Madeira, t h ~ l s~nakinga weekly service. These vessels call at the island 011 their way homewai~cl duriilg tllc molltha of April, May, and J~111e. Rates

.

First Cabin.

$16 16s. (=$76.62) From Madeira to London . %l2 12s. (=$61.32) Round trip . . . . . $25 10s. (=$124.05) From London to Madeira

.

Second Cabi11.

A10 10s. (=$51.08) 28 8s. (=$40.91) $17 OS. (=$82.79)

A reductioii of ten per cent. is made from the two single fares if a retm*nticket is talcen at the time of starting. Thc above arc charged by the mail steamers; the rates by the intermediate steamcrs are slightly lower. The voyage froin Englaland to Madeira occupies from thrcc and a half to four days. During the inollths of J L I ~July, C , and Angust special fares are charged to tomrists and exceptional facilities are aflered. Application should be made to tlze Uaioll Colnyany in Lolldoll. Agents in, F~uzc7~nZ.-Messrs. Blandy Brotl~ers & Co., wit11 whom all llassengers should cornmunicatc regarding tlieir borths in the homeward steamers. 142

Lonclb~z.-The Castle Mail Packets Company, Limited ; Donald, Currie & Co., managers. Offices: Nos. 1, 2, 3, and 4 Feacharcli Street, Loadoa; 15 Cross Stitet, Mancl~ester;34 Castle Street, Liver11001; 137 West George Street, Glasgow. Agents : Blaildy Bros. & Co., Madeira; Miller & Co., Las Palmas. One of the Royal mail steamers of this compally leaves Lolldoll for Madeira every alternate Friday, sailing from Southamptoll oil the fbllowing day. The voyage occupies about three ancl one-half dayS. Rates of Passage Single tickets froin England to Madeira

First Class. Guineas

Second Class. Guineas

. .. ..

15 10 (=$76.62) (=$51.08) Return tickets, good b r six months, between England ancl Macleira . $25 10s. 317 OS. (=$124.05) (=$82.79) m

..

..

Guineas

Single holnewarcl fares fro~n Madeira to England ' 12 (=$61.32)

. ..

Third Class.

Guineas

G (=$30.68)

S11 6s. 9cl. (455.21)

Guineas

Guineas

8 (=$40.91)

6 (=$30.68)

Retnnl ticlcets to Madeira are available for rctu1.n from Grand Caaary (Las Palmas). There is cornrn~zaicatioabetween Madeira, Las 543

Ulhe Zlztttb of the Wntite Palrn:~~, Tcllcl-inTu, ~ ~ olhor u d 1)orts OS tho C1~11it1ty gllozzp, thus zllTordillg ovory fi~,cilityfor oxto~~dccl toniw. Paascngci~sdcsiring to cml,arlc at Houtll:unl)t,ol~ uro A~r~rljshed. \vit;h Dco ~~ailwi~y tickets li-ollz Ply11loul11or Zontlon to Sout1innll)ton b y tllu ~1)cr:i:~l C C C~st10"C X ~ ) ~ ~ lC~~t H ~ v, i iW l g t ~ t ~ ? r112l; ~1.1.40 o A.M. cVCl*yltltcl'llUtC 8Lbtlll'llily. IIOl\l~~tll'd l)LIHHC.I1$!J1l'R lalltliug tlt Moz~ll1a1r1l1toil 2111.iorc~uivoSrco ~'t~ilway t ickols t o 'I~o~~iloll or l'lymouth. IJcngtdl of 1)narr:tgo li'ou~Ho~zt;hnnll)to~~ to Mrklf tli!ira i~ uboul tliibooancl l l ~ ~tluye. l'lic! ~tc?i~,~ncre of' lllirj l i i ~a ~ * 1lursu1ll)nu~i!t1 o ill tllo ~xreolloucc!01' their uoc:oniulodut,ion~, illoiu lik)c!ral ittl)lo, and c!u~bc:fr~l t~ltcndnnco. Uhcul,) rlcttuian tic~lcol;~ Solt t,onltiljter to Mntloiluu tlr*r! ~HHZLO(Iby 111~) CUHIIC!Li IIO livm ttllo lot11 o f Sullo to t11u Stl of Hcl'tc?mbux*.

from Liverpool every alternate Wodilesday for the west coast of Africa, oalliilg at ~adeirira.ol ~oute. The voyage lasts about six days. Rates First Cabin. Second Cabin.

From Liverpool to Madeira

. . . . . . £10

(=$48.70)

&G (=$29.22)

Rouud trip (ticket; good for twelve months) 615 612 (=n3.05) (=$58.44)

Agents in Func7~aZ.-Messrg. Blai~clyBrothers & Co.

Steamers from the Canary Islands.-Steamers of t l ~ eBritish and African Steain Navigation Compally stop at Santa Cnl: in Teneriffe. Rates First Cabin.

From Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, to Fuuclzal, Madeira

$14.61 (=g31

ateamers from Portugal.-Lisbo~~.-Ernp1~e~a111sulalla de Navegac%o. A stcsliner of this line leaves Lisbon on the 20th of every iuoiith and rcaclies Madeira on the 22d. I.--8

146

G'he 2Lai1b of the Wine OfIices : Oaes do Sodrd, NO. 84, Lisbon. Messrs. Ficlclio de Freitas Branco e fo, G 1 Rua do SabSio, Fanclial, agcnts.

Zl;isBo~~.-E1n1)rczil Nuciollal do Nzlveg~o&o par" AGlica. 8tc:~mcrsof tlzis dompany ~czlvoI~isborlon the 6th of tlro mont11,arriving at Mt~dcirt.l, 011 t l ~8tl1. ? Officc~: 8u,z Fci*rcgial do Cimta, No. 4, Lisbon. Mcssrs, Dlaudy 13rothcl*s,lina da Alfaadcga, Funohall agonts. .Itate8

Froiu Lisbon lo Matloirtt

. .

Irlrat Cnbin.

, ,

. . . $29,22 C-&G)

From Paria t o Li~lbonby Ra,il,-l'ho journey from Paria to Madrid ~nrby1)o tnlrcli l)y inilway, and occul~icathirty-five liaurs, '3'11~t~+il) from Madrid to Lisbon can X30 rrlnc10 colzlfortubly by rail in about thirty-ono hours, XaEca

From Paris to Nndrid, by rnil From Mnclriil to Lisbdn, by rail 140

. . . t40.91 (=g8

as,)

. . . 618.G1 ( ~ $ 31Gs.)

Steamers from Belgium.-flntzoerj3.-Lamport and Holt (River Plate Line). These steamers are deslmtclled fkom Antwerp (calling at London, Southampton, and Lisbon) about the 1st and 15th of the moilth. They ~ ~ s n dcall l g at Madeira, and are well furnished and punct ~zal. The voyage, inclnding tllc deligl~ tful trip through Holland on the river Scheldt, occupies about tea days. Bates Plrst Cabin. Prancs

. . 324 . . . 500

From AllCwerp to Madeira Rotincl trip . .

..

=$Gl.lG =&l2 11s. 4d. = 94.40 = 19 7 4

FROM GERMANY TO MADEIRA Steamers from Germany.-T1a1nburg.-Wormann Linie. About five times a movtll steamers of this cornpally leave Il[amburg for thc Wcst African coast. T11e stealner that leaves Hamburg on the 10tli of every month calls at Plymouth if sufficient iadnccmeilt offers, and at Madeira. Every vessel of t1fe liilc calls at Madeira on the retuni voyage. The passage from Ilamburg to Madeira occupics about iliile days. 1-47

Agents of the lines in Madeira and Grand Canary, Blalldy Brotl~era& Co. ; in Tenerifle, anl lilt on & Co. Rutes F11%1Cabin.

Marks

. . 200 . . . . 320

From FIambnrg to Madeirx Round trip .

. . .

=$47.68 = 7G.21

=S9 18s. 761. -16 18 2

Ib

IIunzbuqy.-Hamburg-Siidamerikaniscl~e Da~~~~pfse1~iflfal~rts-Gesellscl~tlft. A steamer of this line sails every Wcdlleaday fro111 T-Jambnrg to the Brazils via Li~bon,once montllly to~zching at Madeira outward; and on the Ist, loth, and 20th of every month fiom Hamburg to the Iiivcr Plate and to the Parana via Madeira. Whcll l~omcwarclbo~uldnearly all its steamerfi; call at TeneriEe. Bates Blrst Cabin. Mnrlctl

From Hnmnburg to Madeira

. . 380

=$88.88

=,C17

28.

3cl.

Steamers from France.--EIav?-e and BonZenux,--

Chargenrs RB~ulis. Agents : Blantly Ijrotliers &a Co., Madeira ; Hardisson l$kcs, Tencrifle. ~ e s s &of this line sail twice moutlrly fiarn Havre and every aecond month from Bordeaux, 148

and stop invariably at Madeira on the llomeward voyage. The intermediate ports are Gibraltar, 'Malaga, and Barceloaa. Rates

Fare home Born Madeira

...

. 250 francs = $48.65 = £10

Return tickets are good for twelve moatlzs. Pamilics of four persons are entitled to a reduction of five per cent. Nc~~seiZ1es.-SociBtB G6nBsale de Transports Maritimes it Val3enr. Offices: No. 8, Rue Menars (Rue du 4 Septembre), Paris; No. 3, Rue des Templiers, Marseilles. Agents : M. A. Silva Paasos, Madeira ;I'iijos de Juail Yaaez, Teneriffe; Miller & Co., Grand Canary. A vessel of this line sails from Marseilles on the 25th of every month for Madeira, calling a t Bal.colona, Malaga, aid Gibraltar en I-oute. Rates can be obtaii~ectby apljlication to tlle home offices or to tlze agencies. The Maritime Signal Tower.-There is an old tower, wbicll from a distance resembles a lighthouse, that stailds on the beach near the main eatra-~~ce to the city. It was erected by one Ban149

ger, an English merchant, during the years 179698, at a cost of one tllousand three hui~dl'edaild fifty-five pounds, for the p~ulposeof unloading vessels. I n tllc begiiiliiiig of the aineteenth ccntury there was so little beach at the city fifi.0nt that vessels could approach to where the towcl' now @ands, a collsiderable distance removed B.om the 7ivatw's edge. The tower is at presellt nsccl by Messrs. Blaildy Brotliers & Co. as a signal-station.

The New Hotel.-Mr. William Reid is tho proReid I-Iotels, eaiablielied in prietor of the fhrno~~s the year 1850, by appointmeilt of 11.R. 11. l;he Duke of Eclii~burgh. The Ncw Hotel is sit;n,ztcd in a garden of several acres on the cli Ks to the west of F~ulchal,oil the new ~ o a d ovcrloolriilg l the sea, and commandii~gan extensive view of the mouatains. There is a bungalow in thc hotel garden, ancl there are good aca-bathing and boatil~g.~ LETTER FROM UNITED S T A T ~OONAUX~ B JONES TO THP WRITER, The New Road, the only Love1 Road. l

Chapter XVI.,

Boating is described in Chapter VIII., Caves. 150

T H E M A R I T I M E SIGNAL-TOWER.

T H E NEW HOTEL.

Boat Hire.-Boats rates. Two-oared boat Pour-oaredboat 16

c(

(r

can be hired at the following

. . . . . 400 reis per hour. . . . . . 600 " " " . . . . . 2 5 5 0 a " day.

The Royal Edinburgh Hotel,-This fine house was Mr. Rcid's first hotel; l~eilceit has been the longest under his maaagemellt. The cl~argesare fiom fifty thousand reis per mo11tl1 upward. The hotel is situated sear the New Pi~blic Gardens allcl not far removed fiom the sca. It;is carried on under tl?e persollal au~~~e~visioa of Mr. Reid. The German Hotel.-This house also belongs to Mr. Reid; it is under the inanagemeat of Snr. Francisco N~mes,who speaks German. It is situated on the Rua das Hortas and is snrro~uldeclby a beautif~~l garden. The cl~argesare the same as those of the Royal E d i l l b w g l ~Hot,el, and include meals and services. Brealcfast is aerved at nine 07clock, table d'ltirte al; two o'cloclc, and snpper at seven o'clock. The Hotel Miles Carmo,-This hotel, another of 153

Mr. Reid's, oillers cxcollollt :~ccommodation~.XI, is situated in the caster11 scct,iou of tho town nild has ail attxlactivo gnrdcli. The cha~gosaro f~*om fifly tlion,s~~nd to ciglltly tliousaad iaeisper monlh. Hotel Santa Clara,--Thi~ is ono of tho l:~l'g,rost allil finest 11otols in 171111~11lltl1, .It stai1tlt-r on lligll grouucl zliid overlooks tlic cily und l l i ~ l ~ b ~ Mll. l~r* Reid is thc proyrictolb, The charges arc f-om six2,y ~ ~ I O U R I L IrI (~~ : i1111~ ward, according to lhc locction ~lrlrlH ~ X U01' l , 1 ~ ) YooinB. This rzttc! iucludcs tllo z l ~ oof t,llc! l)til)lic! rooms in tho bomsr!, lights, ao~*vic:o~, anrl. inc~lu, Suitcs of raorns may be engi~~$c!cl nlid n~culrjti~l;rt11 in 1)rivato by nrrangomcn l. Thc! rlini~~g-~*ooilz ~ctrviccsaro early lc?aor c!tifli!c a t M O V C I 0'010ck, ~ X)i*onlcrZC~t ~ 1nir10 ; o'(!locl<,lu~lullw con a t orle o'cloclc, ndlcrnoon tca at; ll~~lf' ELILc;~ to1111 o'cloclc, nxlcl tliiincl*a t ~ e v o xokloclc. ~ Jonests Hotel, Bella Vista."--?'lli~~ 110t~l 1111~ bocn ~~cceiitly ianovutod with xnotlorri illll)ltovc\-. mcnts. 3Ct~aztnitnry i ~ p l ~ o i n t ~ nalto c n tv~!i*y good. It is F I i ~ ~ f i ill t ~ dt l ~ oini(l~t;of II ,gpl~tl(!ilor t , l l l ~ ~ ~ acres m ~ dat U l ~ o i g l ~oft ollo l~untli~erl tm(l lil1,y fb1; above act\-level, X1 comii~aails8 q)lcndid. 181

view of F lxl~chuland of the ocean, and has broad

tennis-caul-ts and other arrai~gementsfor pleasaal;ly spending the time. I t is about tell minutes' .walk Dom the Eaglish club. It has a souther11 aspect and contains large suites of airy rooms. P a ~ t i c u l a ratteiltioil is paid to invalids. Special rates call be obtaiiled b y guests who couteml>latea protracted stay. All steamers are inet b y t h e proprietor, Mr. Eugene G. Joaes, who will cngage quintas or servants, or give any i ~ ~ f o r m a t i ot ou families, 011 receipt of a telegram or letter requesting him ao to do. Aooommodations away from Funcha1.-Persons who ii~tcnclto prolong their stay at Madeira mould do well to make a special al*rangemei~twith the pi'oprietor of some iiilst-class hotel in Funchal for accomlnodations to be paid for only when occupied. T h u s F u n c l ~ i may l be made the visitors' b e a d - q ~ ~ a r t e rand s , excursions therefrom can be 1;alcent o t h e various localities of interest throngho u t thc island or the entire island group. The b e ~ptu b l i c houses at which to stop in the adjacent country are pel-hal)s the following. Lodging at Boa ~entura.-At the wine-ehop of R, ccrtnin Manoel Carvclho lodging can be had on 165

&be Iaizb of tbe Wflze the paymeat of about niiiclccil li~zndredroia ])er day. Lodging at Santa Cruz.-The csc~ll@nt llotcl at; this place, the I-Iotol Suiita, Crnz, is clcacribod at ~ o i n clcilgth in Ch~zptcrV111. Lodging at SB;o Vicente.-'l'l~i~ villngc is VQV ceat~all y aituntccl nlld witliirl cnsy acocss of Izuny placos or iatcrcst. A ccommo~lat~ion c:ln I)(! h i d a t llic house of Snr. Dinia. Lodging at Rabaga~,-rl'l~csc graild. w&f;~?r-.hll~~ call bc roachccl by an overlnzzil ronto li.olu 8&0 Vicciito. Tho tonr*ist can oithur loxlt OIIC hcxlu or may, pelhap~,Tor a sinall Toe, bo 1~1110to obtain nccom~.uodation~ a t $11~~ I ~ Z ~ HOPC ?t l ~ C: I I ~ ~ I I C C I * , who ilwclla close Ily. If loclgiug with the onginccr*i~ dcsi~nd., l~owcvcl;it i~ aclvisnbla to 01)Lniii written l)errnisaion in I~'uzicha1bcforohuncl a t Obra,s Publicas, IZuu (10 8. Pcclra. Lodging at Santa Anna,-Lodging orLn l)o Ilnd at thc lrousc oC Snr. Acciaioli at tliu ruts of two thousand ~ c i a17ci8clay, Lodging at Seixa1,-'Donna M, l h o i t n ~t u~l c o ~ boardolbwul; a chargo QC two 1;Xlou~antll r o i ~])or day, Ohnptox*XVSJ,, Enbnpnl. W l ~ a p ~ XVJT., or 8aixn1, nntZ (;l10 rond thithar, 100

Except i11 the last-named place, and a t Santa Crnz, it is advisable to have oae's own food supply, as the dietary of tlie natives of tlie illlaild villages, where fish is not to be had at a momeiltys notice, is not dwnys acceptable to the fastidious Alnei*icailor European. Whenever an excursiol~is pla~lnedto any of the foregoing places, the visitor should previously send word of his intention, either by mail or b y a rnnner, to the house at which he intends to lodge. This should be done i11 order that the rooms desired may be clearcd of the insect pop~zlatioa whicli sonletirnes illhabit them wheil they are not in use, or if they are in use to give the occuq~ailts a chance t o vacate temporarily. Private English Houses.-Inlmediately opposite the west gate of the new Public Gardens ia F~ulchalstailds the Park IIouse, where those who are seeking a quiet and colnfortable liolne life are likely to be suited. The Smarts, an English fabily, are residents a t tliis honse and loolr after the wants of the boasders. Mr. Smart may be addressed as to terms and sl~ecialarraagemelzts for a long stay. There are several otlier private houses whore 157

select boarders are received. These inay be found ul)on inq~liry. Furnished Housesa-There are in Fnnchal and its vicinity lnnily f~~rnished qi1int;as (houses) wit11 b e m t i f ~ ~gardelis l attached, which call be rented by E1111ilies who prekr this mode of rcsidcncc to living in hotels or at boardidg-houses. In aucli casca it has oftea beell fo~ulddcsil.able t o llavc a trnsty servant fiom hoinc, to ovcrsce tha native servants, in the capacity o f housekeepcr. servants,-ScrvaiItsl arc gcne13:~llyllircd by the month, aild wagw vary as follows : 'Wages

. . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .. ... . . .

Errand- or kilohen-boy I-Iouse-maid Unclcr house-mnitl Mall cook . , Wailer . , Waitress , . Ht~mmoclr-bearer .

Rntcs par Month.

. 3,000 to 4,000 rois." . . . . 6,000 <' . . . . 3,000 . 8,000 10 11,000 " . 8,000 to .11,000 " . 6,000 10 G,000 <' . . . . 0,400 "

"l'

Tho propor trontmont of sorvnnla is discussod in ChnpLor XIV., 1111dor the llending Good Mtlanors, a One thousnnd rois are pi*ncGicnllyequivnlenl;to one clollnr, or something over tlireo ~hillings. See Chapher XVI., Currency Denoininalions anil Approxi~naloEyuivelonLs. l' A completo inble of rales will bo found in C1inl)Ler VII., How the BDda ~lhouldbe hired. l

1158

At the foregoing rates of wages food in the house is expected. Drinking-Water.-The only good drinking-water conles from springs in the rock fouadations of the govenlor7s palace, and the outlets for the watei., under the main front of the edifice, are called As Fojztes cle JoZo Dinix.l T11ence water shotzlcl be brongllt daily, and a large earthen jug is the vessel usually employed for the purpose. The hammock-bearer (if paid eleven thousand five 1.1undrcd rcis per month, which are the usual wages for gardening, marketing, house-cleaning, a i d errand-r~ulning,besides hammock-bearing2), eia1-nnd-boy, or cook inay be sent on this mission. The Cook.-Portuguese cooks are mastcrs of their art. One of the most f a r n o ~ sof Portuguese dishes is bponge-cake (pZo cZe Zd). No one call eq11a1 a P o r t u g ~ ~ e cook s e in making sponge-cnlce. There are lllally other aative delicacies wl1ic.h it is worth while allowing the cook curie hlclnc7ze to inalre. Marketing.-Temptation to be dishonest con-

' Chapter VII., As Pontes de JOB,, Dinjz. a

Ch~pterVII., How the R6de should be hired. 169

Ghe Znltl, of tbe Wltfltc fronts the sarvant wlzc) clou~tllo iiznl*lcc!lixlg. Smrh being thc case, a liut 0E t11(! vi&l1i0ll~ l \ 4 ~ ' ( ; i1)ur~l~~ chnsablo in ilzo mni~lcc!tsis givolz 0x1 t l ~ followiilg ! page, wit11 their J)I*C)I)OI' J)X'~C:CR:~11(1I ' O Y ~ U ~ I I C H O nainas following tliu .IBuglimli rluillcs :~Xl)liu,l)elic ~ l l yi~rraiigo(1. Market Value of Uornrnodities, -.-'17hu tvoigllt, i~ oxpl*es8ctl I)y tlw Irilo, iLrl :~1)11rc1~ii~t,ion li)r liilogrnlnnla, wllioll is orluivalc,tll; t,o 2.204 lloull~ln avoil*rlnl)ni~, Clubs and Libraries.-'I'burs (L liile 1hgli~lk Club in t,ho 1t11:~tln Alli~rltlc:g~b, ol'~vllic!liil, i~ clusirnl~la.hb c!vc!l*y.1411gIi~llancl hulo~*ic!ilr v~il ~itor to bocomo n, rnc~nl1~!1* tvllilu irk &l':~(ll~il~t~, I i 7 0 r 11o1*o nre to bc rnot tllo 1)1*ot~liil~ll, I'c!H~(~~!II(,H, 11,11(1 t,llc) xncnlX,cr'a o f the 12ngli~11c!o1011y in l ~ t l ~ l v l ~UII~U r~,l 1110st tluligl~t~fi~l l)oolble, 'llc:u i~ ~t:i*vc!tllr~t+trirk ~ l l u ~ ~ f t ~ r ~ i owcl )~ii~c ,li~ ~ [L tilno of ~~~c\~:t,ing* f'c)ls L h nlulnbo~~s.r.lll~uai~vyi~n(1.~ v o l l - t ~ ~ ) ~ ) ol ~i ~i l~l itt cb ~~ ~( (l l and i*occ?l)tiolz~looiw t ~ r l t l u l il)xbttl*ycol)[t~,i~~ing sama fl)a~*t,l~o~~~t~,ilcl, (iyrc: ~ I I I I ~ ~ . I YOIIIII~(~B 'C\C~ ~1~1,(1 matol~iullyto tlio cmrn Ii)llt csl' tllu CI ILI)-II~IINO, 'l'h~j fl0~0lxd~b'Jl(1t;hil'd M ~ , E ) I ' ~ U011 H t1119 H C ) I I ~H~ ~~ I C ~11O3C)lllrneucl ti,n uxculllaat; viow of tlla buy, 9'110 mumb e ~ ~ h i~l~)L Z1~1'0 C R llllloo llloilua~idr a i ~pull 111011111. It10

Gbe Zanb of tbe Ultne The C l ~ l bF~ulchalenseis the fashionable Portugnese social organizatiou, and here one meets the vative aristocrats. Afternooiz recel>tionsand balls are held here d ~ ~ r i the i ~ gseason of social gayeties, and for the foreigner who ia stayii~g5t coilsiderable time in the town it is a very pleasaat club to beloag to. Other Portugueao clubs of good standing are the Club RestauiaG%oand the Associag%oCommercial. A German library coililccted with the German hotel at the I-Iortas has some niiletecil hundred volumes. The Mz-ulicipal chamber has a libl.al-yof about seveilteeil hundlad and eighty-live v01~unes,the majority of which are worlcu on theology. Free access is had to this-library, but, as the books are all in Portngnese, they arc of little intc~est to the average Ei~glishor Ainericall visitor.

EXCURSIONS ABOUT PUNCHAL AND XN THE VICINITY

he mount Cburch,--The

first few days after arriving at Pniichal Inay be well speilt in visiting the various points of interest i11 t h e town and sawounding districts. Tlze Mouiit Chnrcl~,oue of the first bnildiags observable fi~omthe sea, is inva~*iably visited by the passing voyager who has but a few houils to n ~ e i ~ind the island erc ret~vniagto his on-going vessel. Railway and Tramway.-While forme]-ly the ascent was to be accoml~lishedonly by the aid of a, horse, cayro, or r$dc, there has recently been coast~~ucted a railway-known as Caminlio de Ferro do Monte-from the Polnbal (ten niinutcs' walk from the beach, and ~ w d l e dby a tramway ruaning from the laildiilg pier) to the momiit's s~xlnmit,and the ascent coats but two hundred and forty rcis (about twcnty-fonr cents, or one sl~iilliag,accolrdiag to the vargiilg rates of ex1.4

103

Gbc Znttb of tkc Utllllte

chai~gc),~ and tllo i~onndtril) tlzlwo I~unrL~od roi~ (aboat thirty ocnts, or 0.110 ~llilling:m(1 ~III'CO1)cncc). Thcro arc f ~ ~ ~j o~v uo nt o ti\n l,l*ainriLI, ilny, alld. ~ l l o ~on~ Snnday~ o ~ ~ l u1101 f . i(li~,y,.i. Sledging down the ~ount,-'I?llotlg11 it; is ntlvisabla to c~nyloytllc r:~il~vay :m i~ znenriu oF oonvcyancc to the ~ u u l m i l tho , 1)lctl~ur~ia of 1110 11upitl dcacent; in wicliel- ~ l c i l g cnlltt~t ~ 11i)t 1 ~ fi)i*g0l;f;i!11, 1 for it wnM to nvnil tho~n~clvc!so f t 1 1 1 ~~Htr~iigo amusclncnt that n~allyv i ~ i t o rfi~i)l't~t(~l*ly ~ ILHC~~I~(~C(~. tlio inotn~l;, !I1llo ohui*cli,wllic:l~W ~ L H~:l*r!(!l,c:d ~~l)oltt, tllc ycnr 1.470, i~ tloilic?atutl to ()irr Ltttly of' t,lli\ d ~ ~ u h ~ ) t(No..iss i o n Hoahol*:~do Monl,o), i~ u two-sl)irc:(l.ctli lice, ~i tvt~t,citlail Il ~ c ~i(11! t oC n M,cv!l) hill or ino~~nl; :LI; all c~luvi~tio~~ oL' ~ritioluc~rl ll~liitl~~i!cl I l ~t1lc1eixly-fivo fcol; nbovrt ~c!a-l~!vc$l. l 110 1n:bi11 L!ll~l'iLll~O ~ o ~ ~ ~ [L ~l Ol k l~l O~~ h ~~~j lb l' ~ ~l~ l~i - O~~ ~~~ ~ ~ l ' t l ~ ! ~ , C view of tllo c?it,yt~,lltllitirl)c)111*,11, i~ r c ~ : ~ , ( ~[ i lb ~o ~~r ~~ t l . tho strcci; by u fliglll; of ~isly-c?igllLH ~ , V ~ ) H ,A ( : ~ o s ~ H

' Whilo tlla oliiciul rnlu of oxolin~igoia four thtlltu*a r ~ u du l ~ ~to~ lOVOPY f 1wo11Iy ~llillillg~, L110 ~~~~olIic:iitl, or ~ ) I I I * ~ I I U H ~ I I K powor, rala is co~~sl&ilLIy vltryi~lg1)uLwoon iivo IIIOIINLLI~~ 11,11(1 NIX t h o i i ~ i ~x*(!i~ ~ ~ 10 ~ l L110 1)01111(1 ~ l ~ r l i l iCtwc)~~by g ~liillir~gu). Eao Clznplor XV,IC,, Clirrranoy l d ~ ~ n o m i n n l , i r rnncl l ~ ~ Apl)roximala Equivt~louls. 104

..-.

...

!. " - . ,. . . . . . I..

R U N N I N G SLEDGE A N D MOUNT R A I L W A Y .

Excur0ion~about rltnchal the road is a " P. V. B." ( p & win710 Born, bread and good wine 011 tlle premises), or wbe-shop, whence tile mount sledges1 (carros) start on their downward route by the straight, cobble-paved Monte road (cawo-fare, two hundred and fifty rois per persoil). To excursionists trudging komcward from some mo~ultainclimb or exploring tour to the aorth of the island, it is a relief to come up011 the Rlollte road with its meails of r a ~ i dtrailsit to their destination. The sledges seat two persons, and their conductors can be ellgaged to meet a party r e t ~ ~ r a i nby g way of the Mount Church. A courier Inay be despatched al~eadto lnalce all ilecessary arrangements. Legend of the Fountain.-The natives believe that a t a fountail1 near the church the Virgin Mary appeared and performed a miracle some two hundred years ago. The &adition is that during ,z famine2 which threatened tlle island, when the Tho mount sledges are padded and cushioned, have heavy wooden runners, and are so expertly guided that an accident is a rare occurrence. The sensation felt during their rapid descent is like that of American tobogganning or coasting, or, again, like riding on a switchback. a Chnpter XIV., Famine; Chapter XVI., Density of the Population. 167

priests led the illhabitants of F ~ ~ n c hin a la procession to the Church of the Virgin and there made su~pylicationfor food, a grain-laden vessel came into the bay. The half-famished people 1.nshcd to the shore and welcomed the crew, who, the tradition continues, said that their ship had been drawn to the island through a dead calm by a marvello~~s figure ill white. The priests confil-mcd the belief that it was the Virgin who had brought the ship illto port when they discovered her graven image, that staszds upoll the altar of the C~ILIL'C~I,t o be dripping wit11 sea-water. Feast of the Assumption.--The Feast of the Assumptioa is still observed at the Monslt C h ~ r c h on tho 14th and 16tB of evelayAugust, and tho ilatives floclr thcre from all parts of the isIa11d, always treating the day of the feast as a holiday.' The celebratioa begills 011 the 14th of A L I ~ LatI Sl10011 ~ a11d ends 011 the 15th a t noon, as in the Rotnan Churcl~days are always counted ill this inaimer. The disinterested sight-seer does not linger ---

Chapter XV., FBte-Dt~ys and Religious CulebrnLions; Chapter VII., A s in Biblical Days ; Chapter XIV., Religious Life; Biblical Clustoms. l

1G8

A VALLEY OF T H E INTERIOR.

Ercuretone about $uncbaI within the chnrch, for its interior c l e c o ~ ~ tare io~~ unattractive, consisting in a few wretchedly executed pai~ltingsof a mournful though rvligioious character. A View of the Interior.-A walk of seven minutes along the paved road running to the a s t of the church brings the pedestrian to a point cnmmanding the most extensive view of the wild and rugged interior to be had in the vicinity of Funchal. The Little Curra1.-Far below, through the mountain fastnesses, winds the ravine of the Ribeira de Jo%oGornes. Near the point where the forks of its stream (Riheira)' converge is situated a. branch of the Curral dos Romeiros (Fold for the Pilgrims) or Little Curral. To the westward, where the Cabo Girgo mountains pierce the clo~zds,the scene is wild and picturesque. To the eastward, where the lofty chains of the Palheiro extend their forest-covered sides and mistcrowned summits, the aspect is equally grand and rugged. Ribeira is the name by which both the exten~veravine and its stream are called. Ribeiro designates the amall stream and ravine. 171

Uhe Zanb of the Wine Pico do Areeiro.-A long but delightf~llexcur-

sion which leads past the Mount Church is that to the Pico do Areeiro, one of the towering peaks of the ceiltral mo~uitainridge. It rises to a height of five thousand eiglzt hulidred and ninety-three feet above sea-level, and comlnands a most extensive view of the island's remarkable coaformation. A unigl~ty cllaos of mountains1 and ravines stretches below, away and afar ;and abysses that seem t o reach into the centre of the earth suggest the entraace to the infernal regions, as described by Dailte. It is a n awe-inspiriag sight, this colossal, volcanic upl~eaval,and especially so wheil seen a t sunrise or sunset. A t either the bcginiiillg or the close of the day the great boulders and cliffs glow fiery red like living coals, 2nd the basalt sides of thc precipices shine as with the gleam fiom a mighty subterranean fire. There are rnotneilts when the entire isloild seems w l ~ ~ l ~ pille da vast coi~flagration,and the effect 2111011 the bellolder is strange aiid startling beyond descri1)tion. Chapter X., Among the Mountains, 172

Bscurefotte about runchaI The Grand Curra1.-Other jagged and spire-like pealcs rise in a circ111ar group around a deep, evergreen, and pop~llateclvalley that is Inlo.cvn as the Grand Cnrral. The Pico do Areei1.0 overlooks this valley, and completes the circle of mountaia-pealra s~zrrouncliagit. So it will per1zal)sbo easy to :y>preciatethe acicatist'a theory t11at this gronl) constitutcs tlw renlaiils of a circular ridge wllicll formed ia by-gone ages the crater of a gigailtic volcano. Picos Ruivo, Cidriio, Canario, and Torres.-Of IJleso pcalcs sr~sro~znding tlic Grand Cuwal the Pico Ruivol ie i l ~ chighest in ilic island, and the otlie~vomizieaces, illo Cidrtio, Cana~io,and Torrcs,%ar oacarly as high aoid form the loftiest mozzntain glvonp. The fact that their summits are covcrocl with 1~va~ciiclcx.s thc hypothesis of tlzeir havilig anciently bcc1-1 part of a crater more l)l"'~"bIo, A Guido is Desirable.-As sudden storms fiequoiitly occ~urin Ibo llighlaiids and render many --W

--Olinptor XIX., Yollow Violel;.

For Iho lzaiglrts of tllo nbova montionod mountnina, #c@ Clinptor X., Altitndcs. "Cl~npkorIX., Lava. 178

Cbe Zanb of tbe Wftte of the l~athwaysdifficult to find and sometimes irn~assable,the services of a guide familiar with the vario~zspasses are desimble on an expeditioil to ally of the pealcs overlookiilg the Grand C~lrral. How to dress for Mountaineering.-Now, oilly a mail with a stroag constitntioi~call prudeatly rely entirely upon his owl1 powers of loco~notioll in these mountain 1-ambles. H e s h o ~ ~carry l d a11 ~ ~ l p e i ~ s t(usten), o ~ l c be loosely clad, and wcar the native ~aw-hideboots, in order to pi*escivvehis equilibrium on the slippery moss and bo~~lders. Where the R6de is Desirable.-It is in nlally cases advisable to llave tbe indispei~sablorede outfit a t baud, ia orcler to fall back 011 this conveyai~cein tiines of gineat fatigue, for visitors fiom the temperate zones are in constant danger of sunstrol~e. Warnirlg agaiilst ~*tlnniagally rislcs uadcr the nearly pel.pendict11ar rays of t l ~ eMad e i r a ~sun ~ has beell give11 i11 Chal~tcrV., "13ow to avoid Sunstroke." I n spiic of the inoyatain breezes which blow continually, the atmosphere is often humid and colitai~lsa great deal of invisible moisture.' l

Chapt~rXI., EIclmiclity ; Air ; Eealth and How to keep it. 174

MOUNTAINEERING.

Ercurfjione about gunchar How to Choose the Rbde-Bearers.-Tile countyyInan is a more sturdy hammock-bearer than the townsmaa. 13s Tvages vary fiom five huudred to six hundred reis per day, at which rate of pay llc should snpply his own food. 111 any case the 1)~'ice should be agreed upon at the time of eng:lging ono's hammock-men, and it is advisable to witl~holdf ~ d paymcrlt l until the traveller has rezlcl~cdhis jouraey's end. How the R6de is carried.-The hammock itself is c ~ ~ s l ~ i o nmc d c~~rtained and swung upon a long polo, ~vllichis carried at either end 011 the ~honlderof a rbde-man. The rede and pole have together an nvcrage weight of about a h~uldred and tllirty pomlds, and this burden added to the weiglli; of the "fare" is borne with the most remadcable ease by the rkde-men. The Madeiran Walk,-Their gait, which maybe dcac~ibcdas the Madeiras walk, is quite pec~~liar t o tlicse islanders. It is a long loping stride, by which, a l t l ~ o ~ ~the g l lknee is uilbent when the foot touclzcs thc ground, great speed is attained. The body is lleld perfectly straight, the shoulders are tllrown wcll back, a i d thc legs are alternately s w l ~ l ~loosely g forward by a pivot-like motion of li7

Gbe Zanb of the Mine the hips. When wishing to move eve11 more quickly, the bearers break illto a, swinging, shuffling trot, ~ v l ~ i cthey h call inai~ltaiil,for several miles at a time witho~ztany*appareilt sigils of fatigue, though they perspire fieely. During the progress of the journey the bearera erltertaill tllemselvcs by sii~ging iml~rovised songs, the trend of which is a discussion of the weight of their L'fare." It is lncky for the heavy person who does not understand Portuguese, while the man of lighter weight misses many cornplilne~~ts tllrougl~his ignoral~ccof the lai~gnage. The Rdde Superior to Conveyances of Similar Kind in other Parts of the World.-Conveyances of a solliewhat similar cha~acterto the rede arc used in China, Japaa, and the Portuguese ~~ossessions in South Afi=ica,-the l~alanquinof India just escapes being ideiltical ; but the Madeiran rede is in solid coinfort and in o~ztwarclal~pcamancesaperior to ally other conveyance of its lzind. The rede-man has the strei~gthof an ox and tile elldzzrance of ail Iadian. The writer has beell borile UP ail ascent at double the pace he could have accoml~lishec~ afoot. 011 the hottest day there is invariably a crowd of applicailts to carry the rkde. 178

Ercurefone about $~mchal How the R6de should be hired.-Hammock-

bearers may be hired by the hour, by the day, or by the month.' When they supply their own food, their cl~asgesare as follows : Rates of Hire Reis

For each man, by the hour . . . . . . . . . 200 by the day, in the vicinity of FunFor each man, chal 500 For each man, by the afternoon, for three afternoons per week 400 For each man, by the month, exclusive of other service 9,400 For each man, by the month, including such service as gardening, marketing, house-cleaning, and errand-running 11,500

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Time required for Certain Excursions.-The visit to the Mount Church and its swrouuding iieighbonrhood Inay occupy the better part of a morning ; the exc~wsionto the Grand Cursal is comfortably accomplished by rede or on foot in two aad a half hours each way, and by horse in considerably less time, but to gain the summit of t l ~ Pica e do Areeiro or of ally of its ~leighbouring accessible peaks fiom the valley of the Curral an "Chapter

VI., Servants. 179

Ehe $anb of the Wlfne hour and a half must be occupied in steady climbing; or if the expedition to the summit of Pico do Areeiro be inade froin Funchal by way of the Mouut Church, eight hours should be allowed for its sz~tisfactoryztccoi~~plishment.After mal~ing any one of the aforeineiltioned excursions, the new-corner call well afford, iznmediately oil his return t o town, to repair to his hotel for rest and refreshment. 13e will then perhaps find it opportune t o take a siesta in the garden, which is ii~variably all attractive place, being a special fcature ia the establishmci~tof every 11otel. Madeiran Horticulture.-The natives are wondel-fill gardeners.' I11 some of their fantastic and dwa~fing arrangements of plants, and in their ecoiloniy of territory, they remind tho visitor of the Japaaese. I11 Madeira the land-owncr oficlz prrzcs his garden nest to his wife ancl offspring ; and the wealthy residents vio with one another in their horticulture. IT.otels, private houses, and quintas are built wit11 the dining-room opening into the galden. Some British authors have said that the gardens Chapter V., Private Garclells ; Chapter XIX,, Flowering Plmts; Chapter XXIII., Scarlet Geraniums, 180

aicurelone about mncbal of Madeira do not bear comparisoll with those of England. But, though the strictly systematic arrangements required by the holm rules of gardelling are nob observed, it is neve~*tl~elcss a fact t l ~ a tMadeiran gardellers are gifted with rema&able originality; and, as there is muell greater varicty and l ~ r x ~ ~ r i ain a c the e plants and flowers of Madeira: tlie gardens should atone by their coiltcllts f01=what tliey may lose by their non~~~~~~~~mity with thc laws of home gardening. Hotel Gardens.-The hotel gardens are usually filled with willdilig paths that render distances deceptive. A11 acre of gronlld may be so cultivated that a lawa-tennis court in its centre will be csceedingly cliffic~lltto k d , aud the least indirect way thither will lead by sparkling fourltains and a n artificial rtrin, over a milliat~~re mountain, tllrougl~latticed arbours, and arouad bcds of exquisitc flowers ; it will also lead zigzag through a tiny foreat, a cane-brake, a11 orange-grove, and bctweclz rows of banaila-trees, whose broad leaves arch ovcrlzend like giant rmbrellas. Monkeys cl~attcrin blight-pai;iated cages placcd along the F o r n list of the flowering pla~ltsof Madeira, see Chal~ter

XIX.

way, ~vlliletame parrots and brilliantly plulnaged birds of several other varieties call fiom their perches among t.he tropical foliage to the passerby. One's attention is so apt to becoinc distracted by the sights and sounds along tlls way tllat the last turn which brings him abruptly 1113011 the tennis-court is ~ulexpected. It is rather amusing to observe the espressioll of bew il~lermentwit11 which uew-corners illvariably emerge fimn tlie final turning of the garden's labyrir~tll. Lawn-Tennis.-The hotcl tennis-co~~rt is usually a good one, and a game can be giwtly enjoyed in the late afterl~ooa,when a cool breezc l ~ s u a l l y puts to flight the mid-day heat. Players have oReil been kl~owrlt o becoine ii*ratiol~al and t o do ridiculous thiilgs in the midst of a gzme d n r i a g the hot hours, for the sun of the tropics is treacherous, and its nlinost perpendicular rays ale quiclc to strike and overcome the ventaresomc. The Season for a Stroll about Town.-As t l ~ olatc aftern0011 is a good time for exercising, st s1lol.t walk about the tow11 is ofFered as a s~zggestion that the visitor may like to follow. Hospi9io.-Oddly, a hospital is the most beu~ztiful building in Funchal, and its architect was a 182

A HOTEL TENNIS-COURT.

Ercureforte: about funchaI Mr. Lamb, of London. I t s corner-stone was laid in the y e a r 1556, and its erectioil was completed three years later, at an expense of some thirtyt,wo thousand six hundred po~ulds,which was borne entirely by the estate of the late dowager Empress of Brazil. The Late Dowager Empress of Brazil.-This lady becalne SL victim of consuml)tion, and was brongl~t to Madeira by her mother. Towards the dose of her sad life she conceived the idea of erecting a liospital for coiisnlnptives as a memorial to her deeply mourned a i d only child, Princess Amelia. But as death drew near ailcl she realised that she would n o t be able to begin the worlc herself, she made her will ill favour of her sister, the dowager &ueen of Sweden, and provided tllerein that the latter should attend to the bnildiag of the memorial. T h e empress passed away in tile year 1853, and her sister coi~scientiouslyundertook and ft.~itlifi~lly accomplished the worlr thus left to 11e1.. Situated i11 tile nliclst of ,z lovely garden on the Angnstias Hill, near the New Road, the hospi@o coin~naildsan extensive view of the town, bay, and neighbowing mo~~ntaias.A stroll through the grounds is illterestiag, and admission can 185

Ube P.attb of tbe Prnitte easily be had of the gate-keepcr. The cstablislzmellt is excellently carried on by means of the incdme derived fizom a large cildo~vnleiztfu11d provided by the will of the late empress. Tlze noble Sisters of the Order of Saint Vincent dc Paul' devote much of their tinic to caring for the consumptive patients, and the eveilings of many lives are brightened by their cheering smiles and neverccasing kindncsses. Hospipio Santa Casa da Misericordia.-There is another hospital, the Santa Cusa da Misericordia, -which is a large and rather imposing edifice on the north side of the Praqn da Constitni~%o.The building is not modern, having been erected in tlze year 1685, but it is in fairly good repair. Natives are admitted fiee or on the payment of a nominal fee, but fo~.eigiicrsare charged about two shillings (forty-eight cei~ts)per day for ti~catmcnt, lodging, and food, besides tlze cost of di-ugs,which they must pay for as ail extra. A chapel 011 tlze wounds is dedicated to Saint Elizabcih, and on r) July 2 of every year the ~ k s t i v a of l tlze Visitation is celebrated there, and the' towas-l~cople send floral contributions to the patients. There Chapter XII., Nunneries. 186

dscuraio~teabout rtlncba1 is in tllc hospital

departmeut for fo~u~dlinga, who are received through a revolving gate from the hands of t h e deserting pareat or guardian. Leprosy, and the Leper Hospital.-Leprosy is a comliioll disease among the lower classes, especially in the westei8lipart of the island. The Leper IIospital, erected in 1665, is situated a t S%o Laz a ~ * o .Tlicre ~ is 011 the hospital grounds a p a i n t ~ ~ l a~iciellt ld cllapel where religions services are held. This chapel, probably the smallest temple of wo~~ship in the world, is a building about iliile feet in lcngtlz and six feet in breadtli, A ceiling rourteen feet from the floor permits of a gallelby, which encircles the upper interior. 011 tlie floor is a pulpit, wllcro the priest conducts services. Sta~idiilgin the l~ulpitthis holy inail appears to IN at tlle bottom of a pit, tile gallery rising to the vaulted ceiliilg seelning t o forlil tlie ul~perwalls of llic pit. It; is i11 this gallery that the lepers assclnblo and l~earlcento thc priest's voice as i t risos li'o11-1 tho dcl)tlis beneath. It is a straiigc slvrilngemmiL, b u t a practical and sanitary one, a,

Places of intercat near the Leper Hospital are the chapel SunLa antarinn nnd tlie lime-kilns sf Funchal; Chapter III.,Wbare Zargo is buried. l

1.-10

187

~ b llanb e ot tbe Pmine for the priest is in this way free from the atmosphere of t l ~ elepers, who are above him, and whose exhalations rise aild thus leave the atmosph'ere on the grotu~d-floorclear. P r a ~ ada Constituig%o.--Across the Praqa da Constit~zi$Bo,or Colistitu tion Square, from thc suilta Casa da Misericordia I-Zospital, is the Govenlor's Palace, a11 extensive, turreted structure. A pleasallt walk t o i t can be had tl~rongli the Pmqi~,whicl~is well shaded by evcrgreeil trees. A Public Garden.-Adjoining the Praqa, and also facing the Palace, is a small public garden, filled with luxuriant plollts of inany interestillg varieties. The Praqa was in former days the fashiorlable pronlelladc. The New Public Gardens have, however, since replaced the P r a p in fashioaable popularity. The New Public Gardens.-The -New Public Gnrdei1s1 were ol~enedbut o few years ago, and arc most attractive 2nd l)ol-'ulai+. They coi~ttlill many valuable specimeas of trees and l)ltlnls of' The New Public Gardens occupy the grounds on which formerly stoocl the head Franciscan rnonaslery, $e$ Chaptel: ;3II.?A Mouastery of By-gone Days. 188

A

GLMP5E IN THE

NEW

PUHLIC GAFDENS.

Lb. ' S .

PALACIO D E S s 0 LOURENFO, W H E R E T H E GOVERNOR DWELLS.

.

alinost cvery lcnown tropical variety, and borticulturally arc the finest in the island. At the junction of the mail1 thoroughfalaresin tile illicldlc of tlio gardens there is an elevated ~ t u u dwhcre a military Band plays twice a week and on fdtc-days. A t such tiincs thc fashion and wealth and ranlc of the town are to be seen tllrongiag in pnblic l)rome11t~de nkout the gardens. Prap da Rainha.-A ilcw lmqa has just been opcnocl. It;cxtel~clsalong the Ncw Road towards l110 Po~kinlia,Braalcwder, nil4 is described at longtlz in Cllapter XIII., LETTEB FEOM UNITED STATJ~S CONSULJ O N ~TO 'I'IXE WRITEW, Pra~a da Rainl~a. Pelaoio de Sfio Lourenqo.-The PnZacio, fainiliarly Irnowu to tlie Madoiralls the Fo~talexc~, and to tlie ~ i ~ g l i sasl ithe Governor't~Palace, is a I-atlzci*tzi~gzlinlylooliing building, b ~ ~being t , t11c rosicloncc of' tllo civil and military goverilor, must be a ylnca of intorcat to visitors as well as to Madcirnns. Its main ontranoo ope11s 11po11 the Pi*~qa dt~,Rtbinlla a i d cominalzclfj a good view of t11c bay. Withi11 thci-o arc few apart;menls doserving of ~pcciiblmoutioil, tllougll the ~ecol~tioa1U1

Ube Zattb of the Ultne rooms are l ~ a i ~ d s oand i ~ ~well e filrnishcd, a i ~ dthe ball-room is spacious, provided with a good flooi* fur danciag, and h ~ w gwith apocryphal portraits of a umber of thc early govcrilors. Relating t o the Governor.--In former years the iilcollle of the governor1 aiiloullted to sollie thirtccn l~uildredpounds per annum, and it was the11 customary t o entertain largely at the Patace. Altl~onghballs are still occasioi~allygiven, they are now small, forrnal affairs, a i d not splendid entertainments SLIC~I 5s those of earlier days. For thc salary of the govenior2has beell reduced from time t o time duriag various adlnii~istratioils,~zatil it is now 1.idiculously slnall alld. barely suficient for his proper lllaillteilailce i11 accordance lcvitb his rnlllr aijd position. The expcilses of entertainiag mtist, therefore, be defiaycd entirely from the govenior's private purse, and he is usually not a ~vealtl~y man. The Palatial Art-Galleries.-The Palace pict~zreg.allel*ies are sadly wai~tingin good paintings. F o r matters pertaining to Mndeiran government, see Chapter XII. * For the ilarne of the present civil governor of Madeira, see Chapter IX., Aclministration. l

192

T ~ c

wl~ichare considered to be the best W O ~ are S poorly cxecntcd portyait of a olle C Y C ~mail entitled Zsrgo,l and all illartistic l3&inting representing the lnildillg of the first discovorcrs of Madeira, Robcrt & Machin and Anlla cl'Arfet. The Meteorological Observatory.-~h~meteorological obscrv,ztory2of the goverllnlellt is sitnatccl in a wing of the Palace ovel-looking an instrument for liicasuriilg the velocity of the wild (an ancrnonieter), which is erected upoil t l ~ cI,cl1ruce. Fountains~.--Ithas only been withill very recent timcs Illat stntucs of the nude were tolerated in public: display. Several such statues which were orocted in the squares in years gone by were ~110rLlyafterwards disfigured 01. removed by the l)opulncc,or clad ancl reclad in the latest fashions. Of late, l~owcver,public seiltiinellt has changed ~ ~ l n o w h0a11t this matter, alld there is a t least one statue wortlly of brief wentioa. As shomll in Portllguese for Sqzbint-eyed, the nickname of the famous explorer and rediscoverer of Madeira, JoLo Gongalvez. See foot-note on page 42 for explanation of this sobriquet. Chapter XI., Meteorologicnl Observations. 105

Gbe %anb of tbe Wfn6 the accompanying illustrabion, it represellts the ulldraped form of a beautiful woman, and now adoi-ns a pnblic fouatain in P u a c l ~ d . As Fontes de JoLo Diniz.-The best drinlcii~gwater obtaiilable in Fullchal comes from natural s ~ r i n g ill s the rock fouadatioas of the Govenlor's Palace. The outlets for the water are uader thc inail1 front of the buildiag, and are kno.~vaas As Foutes de JoZo Dilzix. Here a picturesque sight is to bc had of the towns-people calling for their daily supplies of the fi-esh, sp,zrlrling fluid.' As in Biblical Days. - womea come to the fo~ultaindressed in loose, flowing garments, and Isalallcing earthen jars on their heads, even as Rebecca and other women of Biblical days2 are said to have gone to the wells. Among the watercarriers arc also inally nleii with austere couiltenames and flowing beards, who are clad ill loi~g, loose garrnellts girt abont the waist, and who Families keeping house in Fonohal are cautioned to obtain their drinking-water at these springs : Chapter VI., Drinking-Water. "Chapter VII., ante, Feast of the Assumption; Chapter XIV., ReJigious Life; Biblical Customs ; Chapter XV., FBte-Days and Religious Celebrations. 196

T H E OPERA-HOUSE A N D N E W PUBLIC GARDENS.

Gscurofotze about funcba1 carry tall staves; they, too, remind one forcibly, and patlliarchal ddress, both in their gllavc ~nal~iler of characters piclurcd as having lived i11 the times of thc propl~ets. The Museum.-Thc Muscnm is a small a i d uaprctentious - loolring l)nilcling, aituated neai* Carlno Clztzrch and in tlze Seminario. It contailis some vcry iilterestiag exhibits, and is well worth a visit. The Opera-House.-A higl~lyimposing e~diflceis the Opera-Ronsc, fiontii~gtlic inail1 elltrance to t l ~ eNcw Public Gardens. It has bee11 erectcd withilz reccnt years, a i ~ dis a chief place of entert ainmcnt for ill0 cz~istocrac y during the willtor Reason, when n vcry good stoclr coinpally fioin Lisbon gives p ~ i f o ~ i n t t ~ regulc2itly. ~ces Newspapers.-Tl~a leading xlcwspal)crs are the Diario $0 Comnze~cioallcl tlic .Din~iode AToticicis. Vmadouraa Gateway.-'rho Vni*c2c%oni1asgateway, thc nzain cntr;llzcc to Failchal wllen ihc city was cilcloacd by a great wall, cll~riiigtlic sevei1i,ecnth ccntuily, stands on l;ho beach front a t tile foot of a stincetwhich lcnds into the heart of the city. 'rlic gutcw:l,y bealte c212 illscril~tionto t11e eflcct that l;hc orcc2;ioa of tho walla of t l ~ ocity waa 100

Gbe Zanb of the Pglfne completed i l l 1689. What is now lefi of the old city walls is mostly in ruins, due to the i~zcnrsioas of pirates and other marauders during the early pal-t of the eigl~teenthEeatnry. The County Prison,-This is a grim, forbiddiuglooking edifice, situated i11 the heart of that; section in which there is the most bustle and liveliiicss. It has very properly beell suggested that "a more suitable buildil~gin a less anfit locality should be lwovided." And, indeed, the structure is in a most wretched state of repair. A t a11 hours of the day prisoaers are to be seen a>tthe prison windows, wl~icllfkont directly oil the main thoroughfare and are geilerally on tlzc ground-floor. The passer-by is often hailed by these miscreants and asked for money; if this is not immediately forthcoming, a torrent of abuse and ridicule is hurlcd after him. 0 1 1 fete-days val*ions articles of the prisoners' haadicraft are suspended by strings from the prison windows, as the means of offering theln for sale to the people throilgillg the vicinity. On s n c l ~occasioi~sfiiends of the prisoners come to hold coilverse wit11 them, but, as the late Mr. Jol~nsoil,the 9a,mous authority 011 mattel-,.c Madeil-an, mys, 'LThe rniscrable inmates of the 200

prison do not scruple to iaterrnpt thc conversation by calliilg out to the passer-by for alms, in toncs rather of demand than of supplication." The Casino.-It hat3 become a fad within the last two or thycc yearn, on vessels calling at Funolrul, to recommend the Imsscngclzs who have a few hours to spei~dasliore, bcforc their dcparturc, to visit t l ~ oGasino, a hai~dsolncbnilcliag opened in the year 1895. Gnlnblillg on a very large scalc is here carried oil. Many great fortunes havo already bee11 won and lost i11 this Madeira11 Monte Carlo. The prop~.ictorsof the Casino have latcly acquired thc 'vigia Galdens, the moat beautiful gzli*dens in F~ulchal,'tlbounding in shady 1)tlthsalld trellised retreats, and Glled wit11 flowering 111antsstizd s~arlclil~g fo~llltains. Every day a fine coaccl*tis givcn, while balls and dances are of f r c q ~ ~ eooconlcllce. nt The gardens overlooli a 1ol't;y precipice, washed at its base by the tumbling waves of the sea. Moonlight Excursions. --One of the most deliglltf~1l pastimes is the inakillg of all excursioil into thc co1u1tl.y on a qool, clear night, when the 8e.o next paragraph, Moonlight Excursions. 201

&be laanb of the Wine moon is fnll. The weird lights and shadows cast on the roads and fields by the moollbeams ~nalre a scene very fascinating to the lover of the pictnresque. A s has elsewhere been statecl, the pensants do much of their field labour a t night,' ill order to escape tlie heat from the direct rays of the sun. The wonien spin b y the ope11 willdows in the moonligl~ta i d sing l~ymnsand other songs of a rcligio~zscharacter, and the field labourers join in the cl~oruses. It is a quaint sight a i d one never to be forgotten. Whell therc is 110 moo11 the planets and coilstellatioils loolc clowil fro111 the hcavclls with great i'adiance : it has bee11 reinarlced that the Pleiades appear to twinkle faster and with more brilliancy at Madeira t l ~ a nin any other part of the world. There is n, rcmarlcable clarity of the atmosl>llere a t night, so that the heavenly bodies shed a beautiful lustro on thii~gs terrestrial. Miss Ellen M. Taylor, the distinguished a~lthorof "Madeira: Its Sceilcry and how to sce it," atates in her vol~unct11at "tlie light of the nioon ill Madeira is golden, not silver: the broad band of light she casts 011 tlie oceail

' Chapter XIV., Biblical Customs. 202

LOO ROCK FORT B Y MOONLIGHT,

Erct~refonaabout funchar is radiant gold. Nature in every way conduces to make mooaligl~tin Madeira bewitcl~ingand lovely." Of the moonlit nigllts in Funcl~alMiss Taylor says, " The lofty mouatains, some in shadow, others in light; then in all quintus the t.1.e~~ add anotlier bcanty, and just above this one the A~*aucarias in the Tigia Gardens stand out clcar, even a t this d i ~ t a n c e . ~Occasionally tllc music from some man-of-war at anchor i11 tllc bay will come across the sea, and in the stilli~essof evening the sound is welconie and very pleasant." --

' Miss Taylor herc refers to the quinta she occupied at the time of writing this description.

C H A P T E R V111 JOURNEYS TO DISTANT POINTS OF IINTEREST~

ant8 (Cr~3,--Perhaps

the loveliest of the coast villages is 8anta Cr~lz,~vliichis twelve miles distant; by land and fifteen miles by sea fi.0111 Funchal. Bituated a t 1;hc 1~011thof a great ravine, 011 either side of which massive mountains lift their summits into the clouds, this little town, .with its pretty white and yellow houses, 1x.esents a pictul.esqnc aspect. Approaching it by sea, vessels enter c~ small bay or inlet, bordering which is the village, f'ronting on a liarrow beach. A trip from Funcl~alto Santa Cruz by water is highly interesting and delightf~il, By Steamer to Santa Cruz.-There are two stcamlaunches, the Falcoil and tile I-Iawlr, owned by t l ~ eMessrs. Blandy, and a small ~ t e a m c rwliic1-1 ,~ Chapter VI. contains a full account of the houses wliero accommodations can be had in the towns and villages herein described. Chapter IX., Local Steamship Service. 20G

leave on statcd days several times weelcly for pbccs of interest along the coast. The voyage to Santa Cruz is higllly exhilaratiag, for the steamer slcirts the shore and affords a near view of an ever-changing panorama. Inhabited Coast Districts.--Ia some places the coast rises abruptly and is weird, rugged, allcl wild, while in otllcr places it is more smiling, tke 1:nld sloping gently down to the water'^ edge. 111 tllcse comparatively level places are to be seen tile littlo huts or dwellillgs of the country-folk; the straw-thatcl~cdroofs of the huts, peepiug out liore, theile, ailcl ev"c*ywhcrethrough the l~zxuri:u~t foliage, resclnblc somewhat the tops of nnmerons laisgo bcel~ives. Hotel Santa Cruz.-The only tavern in the town, the " I-lotel Ballta Ci*uz," is a comfortable twostory building, plessalltly sitllated at a short distance t o the east of the village, 011 a terrace, where t l ~ esea breezes bavc f~lllsway. ,It is snrrounded by a b e a u t i f ~ garden. ~l Explorations along the rocky shore at this part of ialar~dprove highly interesting and entertaining to those who have a taste for n a t ~ ~ r a l history, and, in h c t , to all lovcrs of nature. 207

Cbe Zanb of the Illline Caves.-The writer recollects well how hc used to go o d on the water in a native boat, and, with wondering interest, row about, discovering thc e~ltrallcesto dark caves, ever and ailon stol)pii~g to listen to the dash of the brealccrs oil the roclis or the aoisc: of the rushii~gwater as it hissed ailcl boomed th1.oug11 the mysterious air-holes in the nataral rocky coast wall. Machico.-For the traveller who wishes to visit the various points of interest about the island mld to see thol.onghly all the siglits, it would be well to draw up a definite plan of proccdurc. Santa Crnz is an excclleilt point from which to 111alrc excursions to the places of interest in the southeastern aection of the island. Within ail hour and a qnarter's walking clistai~ccis Machico, of which much has bee11 said Bit11erto.l Ruins of a Frangscan Monastery.-Oil tho road thither stand the ruias of a Franciscan molla ~ t e r y ,which ~ was erectcd i11 the year 1515. Machico, as clescribed heretofore, lies i11 a vcrdellt valley fronting on a bay some seven h~ulclredand The history of Machico is contained in Cllapter I. a Another monastery is described in Chapter XII., A Monastery of By-gone Days. l

208

3ournev8 to Dietant QoInte fifty yards in width. Acljaceilt t o the beach is a sl~adedpromenade, where the f6tes of the villagers are hcld and where the romance of youth has its day. Aiter chasch on Suildays it is a pleasing siglit to see the belles attended by their admiring nzale escorts strolling about. These villagers lead a siml3le life ailcl are happy. Art-Gallery in the Chapel of the Sacrament.The village art-gallery is in the Chapel of the Sacrumei~t,where liailgs a siilglc ailcieilt pictmqe illustrative of the adorations of the three wise nloiz at the inanger birthplace of Christ Jesus. The Parish C h ~ ~ r cdedicated l~, to Nossa Seahors da Coi~cei$.o,the Islaad's Protectress, coninilia the cailopied tombs of Tristam Vaz Teixcira aild. his wife. It has bee11 told elsemhercl how he lived in Blachico as first Captain of this half of the islaiid. Capella of Nosso Senhor de Mi1agres.-A chapel erected i n the year 1883, and kiiown as the Cllapel of Our Lord of Miracles, occupies the site of the foriller str~lctare,which was carried away by a Chapter II., last paragraph preceding Porto Santo's First Governor ; Chapter III., Distinguished Madeiran Colonists, Teixeira. 209

Gbe Zanb of the "QUline Rood from the moulztaias oil the cvellillg of S L ~ I day, the 9th of October, of the year IS03.l This earlier chapel was the first edifice of worship built on the island.2 The first services wcre held on the 2d of July, of the year 1419-just a 111011th after the departure from Portugal of t l ~ c explorers on their voyage of ~ediscovery. The chapel, being built .over the graves of Ro1)el.t %. Machill and Anaa d'Arfct and dcdicatecl, in memory of the dead prediecoverers, to the Parluguesc Order of Christ, was called " Santa Izabe1 da Misericordia," Saint Izabel of Mercy. The crosses 011 the oriyi~~c~Z door or portico (which was not dcstroycd in 1803) testify to the chapel's dedicatioa. Now when the great flood, which burst up011 thc town a l ~ dcountry in the south side of the island, swept the chapel a t Macliico and its contcnts-a massive wooden cross and an irnage of' Jesus-to sea, a great fear ~eizedthe natives that the end of the world was a t hand. Chapter XVII., Water-Spout and Flood of 1803. Whapter XL, Zargo builds a Chapel to the Memory of the Prediscoverers. 218 l

3ourneea to Distant lPointe Bnt somc three days after the flood had take11 place a11 American slsip sailed illto Fuuchal Bay briizgilzg a cross and ail image that had beell ro~~izd floating out a t sea. I11 happy amaze and wonder the natives re. ceived the iinsge and the ciloss, idciztifyiizg them us those gone fiom Maclzico, and rcgardiizg their return a~ a mirrcclo. The cross and image were lodged for some years in the Fi111chal Cathedral, xuztil in 1813 thoy weile talcen back to Machico and placed in thc new cllapel that had beell built on the site of tlzc oi*igiiial one dcstroycd by Rood. I t was at t11c time of thc return o f the image and cross to Machico that their restored resting-place, the new cllapel, was re-dedicat;ed, ill com&emol*ation of thcii*rcturn, to Nosso Senhor de Milagresl (Our Lord of Mi~aacles). By the year 1877 the cllapel had ngaiil gottell into a ruinous state, so, as it commemoratctl not only a miracle but mar11ed the burial-placc of the prediscoverers of Madeilla, rostoratioil was again beglux It was completed ill 1883 and the again restored chapel waa c o w --

l

T.-l1

Chnpter XV., Celebration qt Maohipo, 211

Ube Ianb of the INIine crated by the Bishop of Filncllal. It .stands, it is said, over the graves wherein were deposited the bodies of Machill and his tlnfort~znatelady-, love by their crew. I t is here that a sinall cross of j itniper wood is preserved ; it bears the following inscription : " The Remains of Machili Cross, collected and deposited here by Robert Pagc, 1825." Mr. Page was an English resident in Funchal. Therc is also an illscription in Portngucse attached to the crosfi to the effcct that it was found i11 the old chapel in 1814. This statement seems to be totally at variance with the otl~el.,but there is 110 solution. A Subterranean Cavern.-In the valley of Machico, a i d near the Quinta de Santa Anas, therc is a great subterranean cavern, into the depths of which a very interesting tour of exploratioil may be made. The Fossil Bed.-Another trip which is within easy distance from Santa Cruz call be acc0111plished comfortably by boat in about an hour a i d a half; it is to the Fossil Bed near the base of the Piedade Peak. Here is an elysian field for the naturalist, where many strange shell-fish are to be found, also land-shells7 cgd what are 212

30owmep3 to Distant potnte a1)parcatly petrified branches and roots of trees alld of plallts of various chara~ters.~ Ponta de SLo Lourenqo.-Ponta de S90 Loarenc;~ is not far from the Fossil Bed; in fact, it is just across Lltbra Bay, a small inlet. Ilheo d'Agostinho.-The Poata is one of four dissevercd boulders, resemblillg miniature islands ; these illpc 1~110~11 as Illlco d'Agostinho. This is tile extrellle easter11 point of the island. The Light-House.-On the rocky isle of the I111eo group knowll as FORA, directly off Point St, L o r e u ~ ois , ~the ollly light-l~ouee~ in Madeira, and it; 11ua served to warn many a vessel fiom the dangerous, rocky coast. There is telegrapliic coinmui~icationbetween the light-house 2nd the antlzorities in Fuachal. Church of Santo Antonio da, 8erra.-If one is clevoutly illcliiled or redly wishes to see everything that is t o .he seen in the neiglik,onrhood of Banta Cruz, the churcl~of 8anto Ailtoilio d~zSer1.a should be visited. It is situated in the mountains at a height of two thousand ailcl fifty-nine feet, Chapter IX., Fossil Land. a Ponta de SBo Lourengo Anglicised. Vortugueso, Pharol. 213

&be %anb. of the Wine and overlooks the j~mctionof roads from Ribeiro Frio, Machico, Porto da Crnz, Santa Cruz, and F~ulchal. Lamaceiros Pass.-A very deliglitful excursion, and oiie oil which a view of much picturesq~~e scenelaymay be had, is that aloiig the Lamaceiros Pass. Porto da Gruz is witl~inan ho~zrand a half's walking distance from the l)ass, and near at lialld are the quintas of Mr. Doilaldsoil a i d Snr. Leal. Just to the west of the pass flow the waters of the great Zevuda. The river is here t a ~ l ~ efor d the water-supply of Santa Cruz and the snrrounding district. The main stream is carrich to Camachs, an iiuand parish situated between Santa Crnz and Fnnchal. Porto da Cruz.-Porto da Cruz is ailother good point from whicb to make excursions ; it is a village on the nortl1east coast, abont a mile and a half fiom Faya1.l Calh6ta.-On the coast t t b o ~ ~fourteen t miles west of Funchal is Calheta, a small town of more thall passiilg interest. The peol~leof Calheta take their styles from the metropolis, Fuachal. The l

Chapter X., Fayal. 214

A N A T I V E OF C A L H I T A .

men do not wear the simple loose garment8 peculiar to t l ~ i reonntry brethren, but affect the ~egulationcity attire t o as great an extent as ~ossible. Monastery in Calh4ta.-The court-house in Calheta stallds 011 a ledge of rock so exceedingly narrow that its gables overhang a precipice. It was until a few years ago an old monastery. The shore in this viciait;g rises abruptly, and towering rocky morlntains frown from their summits almost perpeadicullal-ly down upon the rugged valleys at their feet. Paiil do Mar.-At failrl do Mar, a little village about three miles up the coast froin CalhGta, every incli of the soil is under cultivation. This is the chief locality for the growing of the grapes fiorn whicl~is made the world-famons Sercial wi11e.l The Prazeres.-The Prazeres is a populated TBtrict, well cultivated and uniquely attractive to the sight-seer. The economy of space, which is a necessity ill the mo~ultainprovinces where land apl)roacl~inglevelness is at a high premium, is not a cl~aracteristicof this gently rolling country. Chapter XXIII., The Vine and the Wine. 217

GQe %anb of tbe Wine Farming Country.-It is an agreeable coiltrast to those wit11 all interest for farming, who love opell fields, spacions vineyards and orchards, and .\;v110find cnltivatioll in various other parts of the islaud cramped and hence uninteresting. The cereals are here gromil extensively and fruits are largely cultivated. Stoclc-farming is another industry, and cattle graze and roam over far-stretching greenswards : they are obedient to the call of the herdsman's BUZIO, a 111lge conch-shell that serves as a horn and produces a musical note. Love for Labour.-Of people ill this locality i11dustry is a marked characteristic ; so strong is the illborn love for it that women are met i i i t l ~ e roads and fields poising heavy loads on their heads, carrying distaffs and spilldles in their ha~zdsand spinilii~gas they trudge along under their bardeas, How Mourning is worn.-Natives of the Prazkres liave customs peculiar to themselves. The wonlail wlzo loses a near relation by death goes into mounlingl by donning a head-dress of white cot-

' Chapter XIV., Ladies' Dress; Chapter XV., Attire of Ladies of the Aristocracy. 218

ton stz~fl;it is sewed illto a Bind of square bag, which is pulled ovcr the head so that it conceals tlzc hdr, but allows the face to be thrust througli an opei~ingcut in front and just large endugh for s~zcli~ u r l ~ o s e . The Observance of Mourning in Funcha1,-It is a caston1 in the n~etropolis,Fuachal, when a death O C C U ~ ~in S a family, for all the various fiieacls and acquai~ztancest o llrocure black-edged visitiagcards witli which to pay calls of sympathy and coiiclolence. These cards are kept as an heirloom by thc family in w11icli tlie deatli occurs, and the multiplicity of blaclc-edged cards is a source of great family pride. On ail occasioll wlzell the writer called to offer aympatlzy t o a Madeilnn friend of his who had just lost liis znotlier, tlie writer was ushered illto tlie p ~ ~ ~ l owhere r n ; dirt ailcl disorder were the predomiizlztiug fefeatul-es. Wheil the writer's friend cntorcd lie was proinpt to malce ail cxcuse, whicll 110 evidently felt waa fzzlly ~ufficient. Bowing sevo~*altimes with precision lze said, "I beg, sir, that yo~zwill unclerstalzd this disorder, as WC are in mo~zrniag." The writer recalls that "a gleam of soinetl~ing almost approaching 221

Cbe Zanb of the '1Slllfne 11~1maniiltelligcilce '' must have appeared o n his hce, fol" his guest seemed t o feel that the writer's expression coilveyed entire appreciatioa of the situatioa. The mourner showed ~vitligreat pride a silver plattcr filled with black-edged visiting-cards, and the11 led the writer to a closet crowded with packages tied and labelled. ('This closet," lie said, with a smile of superiority, "is filled to overflowing with tributes of hoiiour to my family." H e then took dowil several paclcages and undid tllem. They coiztaiaed black-edged cards, and some packages were inncli larger than others. I3is great-graildfather must have been the most ~ o ~ u l aman l * of the family, judgii~gfroin the larger quai~tityof cards the package labelled with his aame contained. When the time allotted for the exl~ibitionof mother's cards llad ended, they would be made into a package and placed away in the closet. It seemed that the family albnm of photographs, which the writer's friend latterly exhibited, was not a source of so much pride as the packages of mo~~riling cards. The Madeira11 coacluded his exhibition with the remal*B:222

3ournege to Dietant pofnte "I thiilk that I am right in saying that ~ . r c h,ave more of these tributes of honour ill our family than almost any other family in our capital possesses."

Part TTT L

Ghe Qeogmphq anb Geologp

TI-IE GGlilOC+RAPHP AND GEOLOGY

O ~ CC $ormation,--The R ~ ~ M a d e i r a s i e., Madeira proper, Porto Santo, and the Dcaertas-rise from the depths of the At1aIlltic Ocean as the summits of vast moulltaills built ages ago by mighty volcanic npheavals and oul;l)o~-rrii~gs. Situation of the Madeiras.-The group is sitnatccl ill u o r t l ~latitude 32' 43' and west longitude IT0,at u distance of thirteen hundred and thirty miles fi-om Southamptoa, five hundred and thirty miles from Lisbon, and three hundred and twenty rnilcs :from t h e North African coast. The Time.-The time at the Madeisas is one horu., rscvell minutes, and forty sec011ds later than at Grconwich. Soundings.-During the past few years a great many soundings have been made in the North Atlantic, ancl the fact has been established that 1.j.aes in the miclst of all ~ulfathomahle -

227

Cbe Zanb of tbe Wine ocean. If the water could be drained ofl, the island's summit woulld tower a little more tliail 20,000 feet above the sea's dry bed. The Madeisas, the Salvages, the Canaries, and the Cape Verdes would be found to be parts of a submarine chain running fairly parallel with the African coast. Now from this chain, during the progress of tlie centuu.ics, other peaks will lilrcly be tossed by volcanic ul~heavalto forill other islni~dsand island groulps. The shores of the Madeira11 coast, save wl~ere aa occasiollal small beach slailts into the water, are precipitous and drop perpenclicullarly below the water. 111 son~eplaces alollg the sonthcastcrii coast; the ocean reaches a depth of 100 fatlioilis withill half a iliile of shore. Basalt and Tufa.-111 one of the raviiles n~arking the czpl~roachto Fayall there is n large number of columns of basalt, a i d i11 tlie occaa near Fayal a basaltic pillar riacs to a poiilt from a broad base. Butwecil Machico and Canipl there are, at short intervals, vertical surfaces, in reciyrocnl Chapter X., Fayal. 228

succession, of basalt and tufa, rising to heights varying from 275 to 500 feet, and ribbed lengthwise b y dikes, forlcing dowilwards-the forltiog or bif~~rcation has never been found to be upwards in a single instance. The mountain cliE9 directly behiad Cailiqal arc broken off abruptly in depths towards the ocean, aiid show many dip liiles of strata, incliniilg southward. It has beell reinarkcd by several geologists that the broken ap1)earaace of tlie faces ~f the cliffs here argues that a large l~ortionof the island was, in some by-gone age, broken away here and swallowed up in 'Gho ocea;ll from which it had in previous ngcs arisen. Size of ~adeii;t,--Itis said that Queen Isabella ouce :~slredColurnbus to give her some idea of the npy3earaace of the Island of Jamaica, and the exl~lorcrtaking a piece of paper cr~lshedit and then opened it out. " This," said he, " mill give yooi Royal Majesty a better descri~tiollthan ally wlzic11 I might be able t o tell you.". Such an apt notioi~may answer wcll to describe the gcow~~al~l~ical conrormation of the island of &Iadeira, b which is thirty miles in lei~gthand twelve miles

Snow.-The island shows a ceiltral ridge of moulltaills runlling fiom east to west, its loftiest summits-those from five thousand five hundred to six tl~ousandfeet high-oftea covered with snow. Lava.-There are a few ancient lava cascades in the moul~taiilonsdistricts of Madeira proper, near the southern coast. At Porto Moiliz there is a remarkable islet some two hundred feet in height 011 a base of basalt. This island is a dwellingplace for sea-fowl; its steep sides are ii~accessiblo t o huiuaaity. A t Porto Moiliz a great stream of lava a t one time flowed over the cliffs into the oceai~;this stream has left a solid mass that now forms a reef1 nearly fifteen hundred feet beyond the coast liae. A s has been elsewhere statecl, Madeira was, in couatless ages gone by, a inass of eruptive volcanoes, and there is still much lava to be found in the mo~zntainfastilesses and in the valleys. What Tufa is.-Many of the peasants i11 the n&igIlbourhoodof Porto Moiliz live comfortably Another lava reef is at Seixal, Chapter XVII., Seixal, and the road thither. 230 l

ill cavities cut illto the tuff or tufa. This is a deposit of grailnlar atrnctwc, yellow ill colour and very Diable. It is intercalated betwecll the bids of llard rock, having originally poured from tllc cratera i11 the form of mztd at a time whell the volcanoes ejected triturated materials mixed with steam, instead of lava cuweilts. Earthquakes.--Occasionally there is a slight cartllq~~ake shoclc. Thc shock that took place on the ilight of Marcl1 31, 1748, was the only ono at all disastrous in the recorded history of Madcii*a. Tt b ~ * o ~ ~t og lthe ~ t groui~dparts of many public ancl private buildings, and did conaidcrable clamage to the Cathedral. A sympail~cticshoclc diatnrbcd the island on November 1, 1756, wllea the great earthquake destroyed tile city of Lisbon. Another easthqualce which q ~ ~ i frigllteaed tc the iahabitai~tsand did some slight damage in B~ulchalwas i11 January, 1816. Coast 0onformation.-The coast abounds with objebt~of ii~torcstfor the i ~ a t ~ ~ r amid l i s t fol' every lover of natusc in her wildest and most sublime* aspects. Mouutaiils are precipitous at the water's oclge alla benches are iufrcq~~cl~t. Sea-cliffs rise ellcoy to lleigllts varying from five hundred to I.-12

231

Cbe Znrtb of tbe UUltte nearly two thonsaild feet, their bases bathed with foam aiid their summits crowliecl, wit11 clouds. Age of the Island of Madeira.-It is p i t c ccrtail1 that the island of Madeira did nob riso from tlie sea to its present lleigl~tsentire at ono stated time, for there are existing proofs that ceiltain ~ortionsare ~nncliolder than othcrs. Little or aothing is known as to tllc time when volcauic action ceased; the atreams of lava at Porto Moaia and at S. Ticeilte are of inore receilt d:110 than many other formations of tho island, als aiac tlze Trachytcs of Porto da Crnz and the l*cgion betwcell Calna do Lobos aild Funclld. For s 1011g time, however, the subter~~anean Alas havc beell apparently cxtiact. Will1 the oxcc11l;ion of a few iiiconsiderable eartl~clnadtcsthcra l l a ~becl1 110 recorded eruptioii aillee the discovery by Machill, or. the rediscovery by %;/largo. I n ~ p i t c of this the country lying betwccn illo Imsc of Cabo Girgo a i d F~ulchalis brolcen by col~ical hills, upon a ilnmbcr of wllicli slag aud vulcanic ciilders remaiil, aiid bear tlze appc;arttl~ccal' l~avingbecil throw~ltherc lrom somc l i c ~ yfnrnuco but rccently. Traces reinain of strcams OF ltwa aro~~ild the foot of somc of tlzese llills, apl~arcntly 232

having flowed origiaally fkom the crater of some great volcano. Cabo GirZio, the Second Highest Sea-Cliff in the World.-To the west of F~ulchaltowers Cabo Gir$o, the loftiest sea-cliff of Madeira, and, with thd exceptioli of one 011 the coast of Norway, the higlzest in t l ~ world. c Rising almost perpendicularly, Cabo Girgo reacl~esan altitude of nineteen hund lgcd~iililthirty-four feet above the water. Quarries of Uantaria, Building-Stone.-On the face of this gigailtic cliff are quarries of cantaria: hard grayiah stone mucl1 used in bz~ilding. I t is atated in Chapter 11. (paragraph headed Cabo Gir$o) that Zargo, a f t e ~leaving F~~nchal, procccdcd three miles to the westward and came before a mighty precipice, wliieh he named Cabo GtirBo. It is now only two miles distant fiom Ftmcl~al,the city having enlarged a mile westward since it was originally founded. Geraniums, Broom, Cactus, and Prickly Pear.-The xlmosl; pei-pendicnlnr sides of the sea-cliffs are with wild geraliiums,2 broom, cacoften covc~.*cd t ~ ~and s , priclcly pear. At infreq~~el~t intervals U

a

Chapter XII., Masonry. Chaptor XIX,, Flowering Plants. 25 6

along the coast the ever-beating waves havc broken a rocky promiilence and have ground the fragments toget,her cl~lringco~ultlcssliigh tides until shores have been built of t;heir crumb ling^, I n such places 1.ocks towcr fiom the water ill chaotic conf~~sion, ia the sbape of church-spiiles, ~vl~ich rear their points to great heights, or in mountaiaous masses. Dnring times of stolbm, when the sea runs high, water: is scen spurting far up on the promontories. Air-Holes and Caverns,-The spitay is thrown up from mysterious air-holes, through wllicll it seethes with hissing, boomiug, and grou1.1ing noises t l ~ a tare weird ancl awe-inspiring to the ui~familiarhearer. Batranccs to caves appear i11 the roclcy coast walls, ancl many of thc cavcllxls are loag, winding, and high vazzltcd. Tide.-The tidal wave1 strilres tha Madcirau a t about the same tiino that it arrives a t tho Azolles, and high water occ~zrsat thc time o f the S1111 inooil 01-of the new (or changc) a t ton znin~zleu before 0110 o'clock in tile aftcrnuon. Tile ~ C ~ B L I I ~ O of the ebb and flow of the tide is severf :hot, and Chapter XI,, Climntio Sil;natioii. 280

CACTI PLANTS.

PONTA

OELGAOA

FROM

SAO

JORGE

e o ~ r a p b panb BeoIogp the flood runs at nearly a mile and tllree-qlmrters an hour on spriilgs, N. 30° E. The ~nhabiteb.Islands.-Of the four principal islands a i d groups of islands which form the Madeiras, or Madeiran group, but two are inhabited. They are Madeira and Porto Santo. The uninhabited groups are the Desertas and the Salvages. Porto Santa.-Porto Santo lies about twentythree miles northeast of Madeira. It is six and one-third miles long and from two to three miles across. I t s geology is of the same general volcailic cliaracter as that of Madeira. Ilheo de Baixo,-From a great deposit of coral limestono in the Ilheo de Baixo, an islet off the ao.~~tl~west coast of Porto Santo, is derived the entire s ~ ~ l ~ofp llime y used in Madeira. The stone is quarried in liorizontal galleries, olle of which exteiids across the islet. Lime-Kilnsof Funcha1.-The calcic rock is shipped to Fuizchal, where it is burned into lime ill kilns situated near the Leper Hospital of 850 Lazaro.' The Ilheo cle Baixo is ail old coral reef, with an Chapter VII., Leprosy and.the Leper Hospital. 239

&'he Zanb of the 11XSXfne average elevation of two huildred feet above the oceaa and a peak some five huadred and eighty feet i a height. Fossil Land,--Near the base of the Piedade Peak and on the Polita de (promontory of) S%o Lonrelqo is the fossil bed: a curious geological formation, closely resembliilg a petrified forest ; thc trunks of ancient trees, the iiltcrlacing of branclies, and the fallen limbs and twigs being all equally faithfully represei~ted. But it is questioned among t l ~ escie~ltistswhether this fossil land is indeed a petrified forest or is not rather a collectios of stalactitea formed in the sand by the percolation of rain water, which, after diseolving certain portioas of the carbonate of lime, has redeposited it in the 'fantastic shapes now seen. Anotlicr argument is that wl1ic1-1 was advanced by Darwin to explain tlie existei~ceof a aimilar loolsring deposit he had seen i11 Southwest Anstralia. Darwin said : "One day I accompanied Captain Fitzroy to Bald Head, the place mentioned by so many navigators, where some imagine they saw corals, and others that they saw petrified

' Chapter VIII., The Fossil Bed, 240

(Beo~raphpanb GeoIogp trees standing .in the position in which they had grown. According to our view the bcds had been formed by the wind having heaped up fine sand composed of minute rounded particles of shells and corals, during which process branches and roots of trees, together with many shells, became enclosed. The whole theil bccame consolidated by the percolation of calcareous m natter, and the cylindrical cavities lefb by the decaying of the wood wcre thus also filled, up with a hard pseudo-stalactical stone. Thc weather is now wearing away the softer parts, and in consequence the hard casts of the roots nud branclies of the trees projcct above the surface, and in a singularly deceptivc manner resemble the stimps of a deacl thicket."

Mr. T. Edwarcl Bowdich visited the Madeillan fossil bed in the autumn of 3.823, and in his boolc, '' Exct~r,gionsin Madeira and Porto Sailto,') p~iblishcdin Lolldoll in 1885, he gives an account of his visit to fossil land and s ~ ~ p p o rthc t s argument of its being a petrified forest, in a maaner in accordai~cewith Mr. Darwin's theory explaining the existence of a siiililar fossil land i11 Bouthwcst Australia. Mr. ~owdTch'sstatemeilt is convincing; and as his account of fossil land pictures it vividly, s s the writer has so often seen it, the libei~tyis talcell to quote lzia account herewith : 241

Ube $anb of the "QUllne "We reached a depression, more like a basin than a plain, covered with a deep bed of loose and agglutinated sand. These sands have in some degree been fixed or bound by the numerous brauches of forest-trees which they have enveloped, for these branches (which have preserved their lateral twigs) are so numerous'that they are spread over the surface, like a network of stoloniferous roots. I t is scarcely possible to set the foot on the ground without treading on them. Both the branches and the trunks (which stand on their roots in their natural position) are encased in a thick, hard sheath of agglutinated sand, which has followed the external configuration of the mood like a cast, I n some instances the wood has entirely perished, and the envelopes are found void like tubes, but most frequently the wood is found within, as a distinct mass, and has become sufficiently siliceous to scratch arragonite. The tallest fragments of truilks reach about a foot above the surface of the sand ; how far beneath it I cannot say : there were two of these as thick as my body. Sometimes embedded in the envelopes of the wood, but in the looser sand of the surface, were innumerable fossilshells, intermingled promiscuously; t w o species terrestrial, the third belonging to a marine genus."

Land-Shells Peculiar to Porto Santo.-There are several varieties of land-shells to found along the coast of Porto Santo wliich are peculiar to that island, a114 which are, therefore, of sgecitll interest to the visiting geologist. 242

Life at Porto Santa.-Although Porto Sen13;ta was, as already mentioned,' the h t i&nd of h Madeira group discovei.ed, and w a settled mare than fo~wcenturies ago, its ~ q t ~ j l a t i otnc h y numbers all told scarcely two thousand IEmonrs. Nearly all of these live in the one a11d only town, Villa Baleir~a,where an administrator .rid=, vho rules over this stationary population. While referring to the community of P ~ r t o Santo the writer cannot desist from quoting a paragraph descriptive of the s t a p n t life on that isla~ld.~The clever observations m d e by Mr. Bomdich in Porto Santo three-quarters of a mmtury ago are equally applicable b the s b k of affairs existing there at the p m n t day. The ~ a g s a p runs h as follows : "The white sandy beach of Porto k t o to p& me R different geological field for okrvert*i~ntto W of Madeira, and I was all impatienm to get ashore; bat it W= necessary that I should hare the governor's petnuhian ta, & so, which the capbin of the boat was despatched to p m m ; Chapter II., Discovery and Naming of Porto &to. 'cExcursions in Madeir%and Porto h t Q duriqg h Autumn of 1823," by the late T. Fdward BowW. P

243

Cbe Zanb of tbe

"4jQlfite

for the economical nature of the government did not permit any Mercury to be in attendance for this purpose ; and, indeed, during the three days I resided there I could never discover that the governor had more than one king's servant under his command, for all the purposes of ordinary state, and he (distinguished by being clothed in tattered remnants of various uniforms) opened the gates, hoisted the flag, beat the drum at sunrise and sunset, swept the yard, helped in the kitchen, agd waited at table when the governor had company. I should mention that the governor himself, a major in the army, has only six hundred dollars a year from the government, dependk g for anything more on his own ingenuity. The captain of the boat tied his better suit of clothes in a handkerchief, which he held on the top of his head, and, plunging into the water, swam ashore; but, although he quitted us at seven o'clock, it was thought dcrogatory by the govzrnor's servant to acknowledge that his excellency had risen until nine, and then he must breakfast before he could grant the audience; in which he graciously permitted us to come ashore, in a place where there seemed nobody but himself and the drummer to prevent us. The landing is almost as bad as that at Punchal. I begged to wash myself before I proceeded to the governor's, and was bowed into a stable and furnished with a decanter of water, not as the most convenient, but as the most splendid vessel that could be immediately laid hold of in the neighbourhood. The governor's house looked like that of the lawyer in a small village in England; it was very neat, of one story, and contained but two sitting-rooms, one of which, however, was spacious and very comfortably furnished. A row 244

Geographp anb GeoIogp .of cannons (some of which had fallen from their carriages, whilst the others, from their monstrous touch-holes and rusty condition, were emblems of peace rather than war, and fit subjects for a society of antiquaries) adorned the turf before the house, and a second row, in sufficiently good condition for the gunner or drummer to fire a salute with some safety, was ranged in the yard. We were given to understand that we should find the governor in his library, which proved to be a small room level wit11 the court, adorned with about a dozen books, tho drum, some old maps of Banson and-~ansens (more useful for giving an idea of the history than of the actui~lstate of geography), and some rude drawings of his son's, a genteel, smart boy, about thirteen years of age. His excelleucy was hard at work in a cotton jacket, writing despatches to Madeira, the unexpected appearance of our boat having flfittered him with the rare opportunity of communicntil~gthe unchangeable state of things in Porto Santo to his superior. H e received me with the greatest politeness, and begged me tb believe that both he and his house were at my service, and sending for the commandant (an old man of seventy, distinguished by a red edging to his great coat), charged him to order one of the most intelligent of the better class of peasantry, on his allegiance ns a militiaman, to nccompuny and direct me in my rambles through, the island!'

Local.Stearnship Service.-The only communica1;ioa which tllese literdly C'insular" 13eople of Porto Sailto have had until recently wit11 the outside world haa beell by a single small coasting 246

&be Zanb of the U i n e steamer, the _IiaZci?ol (Falcon), which plied between Madeira and Porto Santo twice every month, conveyii~gthe mails and affording a means of transportatioil for not exceedii~gforty passengers. A larger steamer has recently beell built fos service to the north'coast of Madeira aad to Porto Santo. The Desertas.-The Desertas, about tell miles southeast of Madeira, comprise three toweriag rocky islands. Deserta Grande, the largest, towers out of the sea t o a height in some places of over sixteen hundred feet. It varies froin half a mile to a mile i11 width, and is about six milea lo11g. The Salvages.-The Salvages, another group of three islands, lie about one hundred and fifty-six miles from Madeira and between Madeira and the Canaries. The largest of the Salvages is the Great Pitoil, a mile i11 width by three miles ill length. The Falciio is described in Chapter VIII., By Steamer to Santa Cruz.

ALTITUDES

Gable of 91:lel~ht$.-- Tllc followiilg table givcs in Englisll feet tlie heights above aim wild sea-level of the priiicil~allmo~ult localities of interest in the Madeirarr group . Madeira

............. Denuory Quintn do Vnl . . . . . . . . . . . . Lovndn clo Santn Luzia . . . . . . . . . Silo Jorgo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8nnt.n Aniin I-Totel . . . . . . . . . . SRo Roqua C h u r c l ~ . . . . . . . . . . Mirnnte Vista do Macllico . . . . . . . . Portolln Pass . . . . . . . . . . . . Pnlhoiro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Penhn d'hguin . . . . . . . . . . . . Cabo Gtirtlo . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mount Church . . . . . .. . . . . . . Cliurol~in the C u r r t ~ daa l Freirns . . . . . Church at Gnmnchn ancl Snnto Antonio do Serra Mr Voitch's houso aL Jardim da Scrm Lovncln in Riboiro Frio and R i b e h dn Motade Pico cXa Cruz Cnrnl~nnario

.

. . . .

........ 247

Ube Zanb of the llZnftte

. . . . . . . . . . . . . 3726 . . . . . . . . . . . . 3844 . . . . . . . . . 4000 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4762 . . . . . . . 6210 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6391 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5803 . . . . . . 6980 . . . . . G000 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G056

Pico dos Bodes Pico do Arrebeiltiio Encumindn d e 650Vicento Pico dn LngOa Pico Buivo ou the l'aiil da Sarra Pico Grande Pico do Areeiro Pico dns Torrinhns do Boa Venturn Pico dns Torrinllns (or Torres) do Poizo Pico Rilivo

. . . . . l(i0 38G . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1349 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1010

Snil Roulr. off north end of Ilhao Ch&o Ilheo Chtlo Bugio DesorGi~Grnado

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . .

. . . . .

. . . . .

Illleo do Cimn Illioo da Bnixo Pico tl'hrmn Pcrroirn Pico Brnllco PiaotloCnstollo Pico do Fnclio

PovJo flavcllto

. . . . . .

. . . . . .

. . . . . .

. . . . . .

. . . . . .

. . . . . . 804: . . . . . . 670 . . . . . . 911 . . . . . . 138'3 . . . . . . 1440 . . . . . . 1G0S

.

Chaptor TIT an acco~zntis give11 aP a11 cxc~z~*sion in tho mountuine by way of' tho Little Curral to tho ~urnrnitof' Pico do dreeiro, ailcl thc views coinmaiidod by tha Among the Mountains,-

111

248

cxcursiollist stailding on the summit are fully described. Melltioil is made of Picos Ruivo, Ciclrfio, Canario, and Torres, of which the summit of Pico do Arceiro colllmands a fine view. The Grand Cuwal is also seen a t the base of a circular group of moniltaiiis rising i11 spire-like peaks about it. Tbe Pico do Areeiro itself ove~looks the Grand Curral and completes the circle of susrouncliag mo~ultains, Faya1.-The a1q)roacll to Bayal1 by laid can be made throug11 either one of three great ravines which divide the rnotlntaiil ranges in this section of the coiultry, and whose waters col~vergenear Fnyal, wllerc they enter the oceczn in a single laige stream at the wester11 base of Peilha d'Ag~zis. The village of Fayal is fiituated in a beautiful fertile valley, where the leading industry is the growiag of sugar-cane.2 The only building worthy of special meiltioll is the church, ol' 1)wc"liararcl~itectareand situated in the heart of luxuriailt vegetation of every kind. Penha d'Aguia.-Frowning down from the dizzy heigl11; of 1915 feet above the sea is the summit l

a

Chapter IX., Basalt and Tufa. Chapter XVI., Sugar. 240

Cbe %anb of tbe Ufne of a mighty truncated pyramid of rock kl~owllas the Penha d'dguia. A pleasant journey, occupying a day's time, can be made from Santa Aniial to the top of Peaha, which colllmailds a wonderful view of the islal~d'sconformation. From the summit of Penha the vision sweeps the chaotic centre of the isltbnd, where the tumbling mountain rangcs rise one above the other, and Picos Ruivo, Torres, and ~ h e e i r opierce their way above the clouds. Other lower Picos, de Jotio Perado and da Suna, mount skyward above hollow earth channels that descend froin them to the sea at Porto da Cmz. Chapter VI., Lodging a t Santa Anna.

~flllatfc%ftt\a#on,-Situated between the , isothcrmals of 64" and 68" F., the climate of the Madeira Islands is marked by a singular unifo~mityof temperature. It is atatcd by aortain scientists tliat this is due ill great part to its poaition ill the midst of the occnil, wllence its atmosphere is at all times drawing a supply of aqucons vapours. EIurnidity,--On accoui~tof the warm cnrpentl that flows by it, tlierc is a mncli larger quantity of woistura in the air of Madeira2 than thcre would otherwise be. Dr. Tyndall, an Ellglish wcicntiat, ahows that tlia water suspended overhead as vapour protects the earth in tlic same way that warm clothirig protects the body, at one time ai~estingthc heat rays of the sun and again lcssonil~gt l ~ c~*adiatioaof heat from the earth Cl~npterIX., Tide. "Ohaptor VII., Whore tho Redo is Desirable, Et-18

263

Cbe Zanb of tbe lllllfne into space. The atmosphere of Englalld coataias, 011 an average, but one particle of water to two hundred particles of air, but that one particle absorbs eiglity times as much heat as the collective two huizdred air l~articles. Northeast Trade-Wind.-From April 10 to September 10 the nortlleaat trade-wind blows oil Madeira, b ~ dnrillg ~ t the winter season tlle island is some four degrees beyond tlle limits of the trade-wind, thoug11 the prevailillg wind, which blows irregularly, is eve11 the11 Born the aortl~east. Occasionally i11 the spriilg the noi~tliwillcl blows over the central ridge of motultains and rushes down its slopes, c a ~ ~ s i damage ng to tile vineyards. The Leste.-The warm, dry east wind, which blows from thc African desert in summer-time, and in Madeira is Bllowll as the '"esie," is the same willcl whicli in Soutllenl Eurol~estrikes hot and cold i11 various placea. 111 Switzcrlai~d, for instaace, the Afiican wind, there called tlle 6ise,)' is a cold, icy wind ; this is bccause, while blowing across the pealrs of the lofty Alpa, which arc: pcr.l~etnally covered with snow and ice, it loses all its heat and sand. Indeed, when it pours dowi~into a Swiss vdley it sexlda a chill through '

264

cvery one on the hottest and most sunshiny day in summer. I t is wheil an nntzsnally violent east wind aweeps over the great Desert of Sahara that its cEocts arc felt i11 the Madeira, Islallds, althomgli tlicy are distailt some three hlniidred and twenty lniloa from the African c0tlst.l But, atrange as it may seem, tile hot mild is ca~~glit LIP from the desc!rt in swidii-rgwind-clo~zdsand thus conveyed, 1;lirougIit,ho azure heights of tlle upper air, across tho sea to tho Madeira Ialailds ; it is also thus ctarricd to tlie Canaries. A t Madeira such a storm nlq'cars fikr out a t Bca and coming onward with vclacity, Sand fkom the Desert of Sahara.--Dauly cloths t~rs~soinetixnos lit111g ovcl*the wiildows in houses to koop out the aand wit11 which the air is often latlcn at thia time. Havoc wrought by the Leste,--After the saud~torm,wlricln occ111)ies anywhere from a couple of llonrs to three daya in passing, destruction is fo~xndin tllo most u111ooked-for places. IIoles a ~ bnracd o occasionally thilo~zglihedges, and the laavce and filrnallei1brallclies 011 the siclea of trees ahapter IX,, Situntioll of the Mudeiras. 256

exposed to the hot storm's violence are sometimes fo~zndscorclled to crumbling dryness. Beyond this there is hardly if ever any other serious damage wrought that is worthy of mention; and there is very little personal discomfort felt. A distinguished resident at Madeira writes, "I never saw or felt any ill-effect from leste." Rain,-At the end of summer the equinoctial rains, accompanied by much lightning and little thunder, set in. The average rainfall, taken' from seventeen years' observations, has bee11 found to be 26.71 ii~ches. The accomlsallyiug table of meteorological observations1 gives a coilcise idea of the atrnospl~ericcharacteristics of the Madeira11 climate. Clouds.-While the rainfall in Madeira is slight and infinoqzzeat,there is aeldorn a cloudless day, tlie mountain-l~aksbeing constantly bathed in ilebulous vapours. Air.--The air is sedative and collducive to rest, which is m advantage tdqinvstlids that come to Nadeira suffering fiom nervous complaints. l

Chapter VII., The Meteorological Observatory. 266

Warning t o the Invalid,-It lnay llcre be aaid thal; it is urlndvisablo for au ilzvalidl to come to Mncloirh zzut~ttunclod; tlicro liave beell inany sad cnaiw ~vlioretllo clging liave had 110 oilc st hand t o 11~11101- undcratt~udthem. The Story of an Xnva1id.-'I1lio writcr recalls wit11

frarwl can~tzrlzl)tion, who was L: viaitoi*to t11e islancl. ill 1,889. 'Pho llama by wllicli tllc gentlc~na~i was I < ~ I c ) w x ~ wag :MI*.Ookoinai~,$11~1,like ~nailyof tlm ltll~~itllr t~l'i~toci~atfl, hc W Z ~ M highly cducatcd aiid tvull-iilh~nlc~cl,ITo upolcc rjarnc oight or toll languag,.oR Lluuntly uzid wtts n most delightful and canlerb2;~tiuing aaavc~~antion~llisl;. 11;was a plcnsrzrc t o mcct him, for, tl~orlgl~ hc szzflcrcd intonacly, he was ~dwaysIsi~iglltrind c l l c c ~ ~ tmid ~ l , hia facc wuru n radiant ~ m i l o , :Lt waa his joy t o bc whccled illto the gttrdun ill a rolling-clinir and thcrc to sit among I;bo sccntcd llowo~sand hea1-1ccn l;o the aong8 ol'.tllo oann,i*icsaa they flitted ovorllca,d in l C11npl;or IV,, Why Mnrloira in Enpooinlly Interesting to dls Worlcl ; W11npl;ur XYI,, A Watering-Place and HcalthRosor t.

268

THE INVALID'S DELIGHT, A HOTEL GARDEN.

CTfmate the bright sunshine. He had lived a highly inkF. esting life, and had penetrated the *l& of c i ~ and Siberia and gone through the tbrining experiences in the interests of hie pyBmawnt It was while t h ~ l sengaged that he had m n t m a his deadly malady, and hc had come to accompanied by aeither kith nor kin, h a p m t h k a winter passed in the salubrioues climrmk mkht restore his former health. But one day the bp who was accustomed to seek him in the missed him, and on going to his rwrn a t the door b y his faithful attendant, who in a sobbing voice said that +his ma5ttlr"s spirit h d just passed to a blighter and better world. m writer was one of the few mourners at the A Russian war-ship called for the remains, Mr. Ootoman's Identity.-It wa6; discovered tftbt the deceased Mr. Ootoman was nono other tban a distinguished member of the q a l family rrf Russia. I n his case there was a devated attendant, who knew him in his true ~ 4 1 ~ i&9 , his bedside when death stole u p n him 5 bat many h a l i d s who could well afford a trusty companion come to Nadeira ummom~nied, suffering from dangerous mahdim 261

~

Health, and how t o keep it.-As was said in Chapter V.,' great care sl~otlldbe talcell by the well and strong as well as by invalids to avoid violent exercise before becoming acelimated. Discrimination as to diet2 and a careful selfwatchfulness are ea.1.nestiy recommended, for in t h e bl~iglltsnnshine and scarcely varying temperature the new-corner is tempted to run undne

risk. It occuvred to the writer, just befol-c sending this volume to press, that ,z list of the presentday leading physiciails in Uadeira would be dcsirable as a reference for all visitors to the island -one is always better satisfied to know precisely as t o the medical aid a t hand a t a, distant place before going thither. Through the kind co-operation of the United States Consul, Mr. T. C. Jones, in this matter, the ml-itei* is enabled to give a complete list of IIadeira's leading practising physicians and dental ,surgeons. Chapter V.,How to avoid Sunstroke. Chapter V,, Diet for the New-Corner. 262

English Dr. M. C. Grabham, Dr. F. 5.Hicks,

Dr. R. E. S. Krohn, Dr. J. Geddes Scott, D r . B. R. Conolly. Portuguese

Dr. Nuno Silvestre Teixeira, Dr. V. Machado, L. Dr. Pedro Lomelino, Dr. J. Larica, Dr. Abel Vaaconcellos, Dr. M. Sequeira, Dr. V. Ornellas, Contle de Cnnnavial, Dr. Anthero de Menezes, Dr. M. Pitta, Dr. Jose Joaquim de Freitas, Dr. Silvestre, Dr. J. de Carvalho, Dr. L. Gaspar, Dr. Carlos Leite Monteiro, Dr. J O ~ A. O Teixeira, Dr. Art;hur Leite Monteiro. Dr. Azevedo Ramos, Dental Surgeon. Dr. Jayme de SA, Dental Surgeon.

fl IQostscrlpt to tbe

preface

while the writer of this work believes strictly in the historical version of t h e prediscovery of the Madeira Islands by Robert S Machiu (as his own arguments in the preface, as well as in the body of this work, will show), he, nevertheless, appends herewith, i n condensed form, some of the most able of the contrary arguments, in order that his readers may have a view of both sides of the much discussed question. TO start at the very beginning, it is claimed by certain wrilers as possible that the early P h ~ n i c i a n s happened upon those islands now known as the Nadeiran group in the course of some of their many daring voyages in quest of new territory. But a s there is no evidence of any character whatsoever either in ancient history or folk-lore to show that the Plicenicians actually visited tbheseislands, the foregoing theory wo~rldseem to develop into mere conjecture. The distinguished historian and scientisb of Madeira, Mr. James Yate Johnson, whose death, greatly to be mourned, was reported in the newspapers shortly before the publicatioll of this work, tells us how, at a later ~ e r i o dPliny , recounts Icing Jubn's voyage of exploration, and makes mention of certain Parple o r Mauritanian Islands. Ofthese island8 Mr. Johnson writes that their position, 265

%L @oetecrfpt t o tbe

Drsreface

with reference to the Fortunate Islands (which appear to be plainly enough identified with the Canaries), seems to point out the Macleiras as those intended. To further quote Mr. Johnson, and in his own words, he says : " I t was here that the king contemplated nn establishment for oxtractiug the dye termed Goetulian purple, but whether anilnal or vegetable matter was to supply the colour is not manifest. Ptolemy speaks of an island in this part of the Atlnnl,ic Ocean, under the name of Erythia, which may be tmnslnted Red Island, and it has been thought thnt reference was here agnin madc to the fact of purple dye being obtained thero. Then, for hundred of years, these islands have no' plnce in history. An Arab Iiistorian of the eleventh century nnrrntcs thnt an expedition of his people set forth from Lisbon in the 11iuhl1 century, and having discovered an island, which il is suggested was Madeira, gave to it the name of El Gllanam. Nothing more, however, is heard of the Arabs in eonneotio~l with Mndeira except as corsairs making occasional descents upon the islands!' Another writer, who has made some researob porlaining to the aarly history of the Madeira Islands, states positively thnt there wero eight Maghurin, whose voyage from Lisbon early 'in the twelfth. century to an island which has been iden~ifiedby M, d'Aveznc as Legname, the ancient name of Mndeirn, is recorded by Edrisi. (See I. do Lolcgnam~on the Medici Map, pago 50, Vol. I., and the text cle3criptivo of the map on the page facing it.) Of the history of Machin, n distinguished Portuguese resident iu Madeira writes : 266

fl U3oatacrfpt to tbe DreIace " Tllo story of Maohin has no more right to be believed. aritica hnve destroyed it." .A. cortnili English writer who has delved somewhat into tuloioul; liislory mnlces the following claim : " Tho Gunoeao Ferestrello, the father-in-law of Colurnbus, n nzo~rlhorof t l ~ ohousehold of Prince Henry, was driven t o .L30rLoRjtulLo in liis onravel whilst on a voyage of discovery to CLLI)~ 130jnclor in 1418; nnd it was from his report to bis I'riaca that Zergo was sont to Madeira in the followi'ng year. 'l'ho sl;n(;ornant tlint Zargo himself learnt of the existence of !,ha lt~rgoisland from n captured Spanish sailor who had m e t in cnptivil;y in Morocco some of Macliin's crew, does not q)l)ottr to rost; on nny tostirnony worthy of the name; and c:onsicloring tllnt nt lenai; seventy years elapsed between M~~nollin'a ~npposodvisit and Zargo'a expedition, it is on the fLccoof il;improbr~ble;whilst Perestrello's report to the P r i n c e in 1418 resh on sound evidence."