1901-abiddlle

THE

LAND OF THE W BEING

AN ACCOUNT O P TflB MADEIRA ISLANDS AT TII-EBE GINNING 01; THE T ~ T ~ E N TYT ~;TE CBNTUR Y, AND RR OAF A NR I.Tr POINT OP VIBLV . BY

A. T. DREXEL BIDDLE, F.R.G.S.,F.G.S.A., F.R.M.S.,

A P P O I N T M E N T . OB TEIE ASSOCIACÃO COMMERCIAL OB COMRIIIIZCIAL CONGRESS I N P B I L A D P L P I I I A , U. S. A., I899 VICE-PRESIDENT n O R M A D E I R A O F T H E ADVISORY ROARD Oír T H E P H I L A D E L P H I A COhLMERCIAL N U S B U M rlUTIIOR O P "TEIE MADRIRA ISLANDS." " T I I E B I R T H 017 T H E NATIoN," "TIIE LIFB OB A N D R E ~ JACKSON," , " L A BELTJE PRANCE," "THE A IIIOGRAPHICAL ROMANCE," ETC., E T C . BLOWSRS OF LIPE,"

WITH THIRTY-EIGHT FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS ; A hIAP MADEIRA SHOWING DISTRICTS DEVOTED TO VINECULTURE AND PAC-SIMILES OP OLD BILLS OF LADING

OF

AND TREATING O F

T H E NATIVES, TKEIR CHARACTERISTICS, RELIGION, LAWS, AND CUSTOhfS T H E COMMERCE T'IE FLORA ; T H E VINE AND THE \NINE; AND T H E FAUNA

PI~ILADEI,PI-TIA AND SANFRANCISCO

COPYRIGHT, 1901

nu

ANTHONY J. DREXEI, BIDDLE ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

PRINTED BY DREXEL BIDDLE, PHILADELPEIA, U. S.A.

Contente of bolurne P A R T IV The Natives : Their Characteristics, Religion, Laws, and Customs CHAPTER X I I LAW AND RELIGIION PAGE

Population-Administration-Porto Santo Concell~o-The Accomplisliuicrits of D. Diniz I.-Military Order of Christ -The Roman Catholic Church-The Bishop of Madeira -A Monastery of By-gone Days-Nunneries: Convento de santa Izaùel-Convento do Bom Jesus-Convento das Merccs-Convent of Santa, Clara-Sister Cleiuentina, the most Reautiful Woman-Burial of Natives-The Portuguese General Cemetery-Masonry-The Hebrea Cemetery-The Residents' Burial-Ground-The Ncw British Cemetery-The Strangers' Ceiii -Britisli CliurchesThe Church of England-The Churçh of Scotland

.

CHAPTER X I I I ATTITUDE TOWARDS FOREIUNERS ; ADYIRATION FOR AMERICANB; ANNEXATION TO THE UNITED STATES T I I E CREBD

British Moiiopoly of the Commerce-The Fight of 1889-V Nativo Friciidliness for tlie Americaus-Natives downtrodden-Despotic Law-Bad Cfovernment-Thc Army -Defensive SLructures . . . 29

. . . 6

. .

.

. . .

Contente of VoIuine VI CHAPTER XIV THE SOUIAL LIFE PAQE

Behind the Times-Madeiran A~istocracy-The Ladies-La. dies' Dress-Wearing of Jewellery-Good MannersNative Formnlities-A Deadly Insult-A Thrilling Adventure-A Hair-Breadtli Escape-Native CharacterThe Peasantry-Religious Life-Biblical Customs-Tlie Towns-People-Famine-Baran ConceigEio, the CornGiyer-Asylo da Mendiciclade-Beggnrs-PoverQ in Fuiiclial-Music and Musical Instrcrments-Tlie MachBte -The Guitarra-Thq Rebeca . . . . 42 '

. .. .

..

CHAPTER XV The English Church-Di~iiier a l Bnroness Coiicciç&o's-Native Celebratioii of Christii~as-Fireworlis aiid CanuonNew-Year's-Day-Bnll-Fightiiig-Frecluency of Legal Holidays-Mny-Day-The Madeirali Dance-A Nativo Orchestra-Aunual Celebrntioii of Lhe Couiitry CliuycliCelebration a t iifachico-Religious Processioiis i ~ Frini clial-The Blaclc Saint-Procissfio dos Passos-AshJYednesclag's Pnradc Brealring of tlie Cromn-The Six TIreeks' Moiirniii I-Ioliclay Cromtl-Dreus of the Co~intry\vornen-Attire of Ladies of Lho AriskocrncyThe Interior of tlie Cathedral-The Undergroiind Ptissage-A Throne-ltoom-Forciiig. an Eiitraiice-Whero the Aristocracy viewed the Ceremoiiy-Tlie Moniimeiit t o the Dead Soveieign-The Miisic in tlie CalhedralThe Processioii iii Honour of tlie Dead and Living Icings -The l\lourners-The fifilitary-Tlie Crowii-Bearer-The Pall-Bearers-Thc Pros1rt~t.eCromd-Tlie Platform Cere6

Contenta of VoIutne 11 PAGE

mony-The Crown ia broken-Cannon Blasts the Sorrow -Three Crowns must be broken-Sorrow turned to Joy -" Long live the King 1'' . . . . . . G5

.

. .

.

CHAPTER X V I COMMERCE AND MONEY OB MADBIRA

Reis, the Standard Coin-Charges in Reis seem ExorbitantA Restaurant Adventure-Weighty Coinage and Bulky Bank-Notes-The Invalid's Lump-The Post-Office : Stamp-Collecting-The Main Post-Office-Rates at mhich Mail can be sentl'elegraph-Cabl CommunicationOffices of the Local and Submarine Telegraph Companies -0abling Charges to Different Countries-Portugal's Income from Madeira-Letter from Blaudy Brothers & Co.-Currency Denominations and Approximate Equivalents-Scarcity of Gold and Silver and OverSupply of Bank-Notes-Lack of Coinage i n - t h e Provinces; Iiivestrnents i u Jewellery-Jewellers are the Peasants' Bankers-Gold Linked Chains as Investments and as Currency-Gold' must be Eighteen Carats fineLeading Jewellers and Watchmakers-The CommerceMadeiran Lace and Embroidery-Dressmakers-Dealers in Articles of Native Industry-Tobacco+ther Products -Sugar-Cano Spirit-Molasses-Cayenne PepperGrain-Unprosperous Condition of Madeira-Shipping Concessions for Madeira-Letter from the United States Departinent of State-Value of a Year's Export of Wine to the ZTriited StaLes-A Watering-Place and HealthResort-American Staves for Wine-Casks-Steamers to Madeira-Importa i n 1897-Exporta for the Uiiited States in 1897-Trade Statistics-Water-Siipply-Denaity of the Population-Egg Export-Embroidery Indus7

PAGE

try-Letter from United States Consul Jones to the Writer-The New Pier-The Brealrmater-Natal Day of the King and Queen-The Asphalt Road-The Bay and its Shipping-Prac,a da Rainha-The Electric-Light New Road the Plant-The Ti-amway-Omnibuses-The only Leve1 Road-Letter from the United States Department of State-Statistics of Trade for 1899-Increase i n Communication with the United States Advocated 90

..

PART V The Flora CHAPTER X V I I AQRICULTURB AND VEGETABLE RAIEiING

Irrigation-Levadas-Tlie Opening of tlie Sluices-Vegetable Products-Pigs, and the Position they occupy in tlie Peasant's Household-Another Staple Vegetablu Food -Leguniirious Plants-Bcixnl, nucl the Road ThitherRabagal-Paul da Serra-Ribeiros-A Freshet-WaterSpout aud Flood of 1803. 135

. . . . . . . . . . .

CHAPTER X V I I I BRUITS

Varieties of Fruit-Guava-Pineapple-Citrou-OpuntinDate-Palm-Banana-Fig-Apple and Quirico-Loquot -Cuatard-Apple . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. 154

CHAPTER X I X FLOWEBING PLANTS

Geranium-Alexaildrian Laurel-Madeiran Pride-HimaIayan Rose-Saxifraga &Iaderensis-Yellow Violeti-Li~t of Luxuriant Floweriiig Plants 161 8

. . . . . . . . .

CHAPTER X X TREES PAaE

Clamping in the Mountains-Trees-Papaw-Juice Tender-Chestnuts-Fuel

makes Meat

. . . . . . . . . . . 168

CHAPTER X X I FERNS

Ferns like Trees-An Alpbabetical List of Ferns growing in 174 Madeira

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CHAPTER X X I I YOSSES

Moi~sesPeculiar to Madeira-List of Mosses

. . . . . . 184

P A R T VI The Vine and the Wine CHAPTER X X I I I THE VINE AND THE W I N B

Introductiou of the Vine-History of Good Wine ns shawn in the Life Work of Prancis ~ e w t o n - ~ u a n % of t ~Madeiran Wines consumed by the World, Year by Year, since 1774-When the Wine Grst becarne Famous-When the Demand exceeded the Supply-The Responsible Wine-Merchants of Madeira-Vines aiid Stores of Cossart, Gordon & 00.-The Estufa Stores, where the Wines are subjected to Heat-Wine-Malriiig Grapes described -Verdelho-Tinta-Malvazia, or Malmsey-Bual-Sercial-Verdelho, the ICing of Wine-Producing Grapes(loasart, Gorclon & Co.'s Book-Wine-Making described 9

Contente of UsIiime VI PAQE

by Henry Vizetelly-The Serrado Stores-Coopers-The Season for a Freshet-The Flood of 1803-Shade for the Labourers-Scarlet Beraniums-When the Produce of a Vineyard is Purchased-Racking and Lotting of Wine -Fining for the Pateo Stores-Where the Sun is used instead of the Estufa-Wine sent on a Sea Voyage to Mature-Precautions against Leakage under Heat-The Risky Proceeding of Tapping Wine in Air-Tight Compartments-Loss of 'Wine through Evaporation-The Counting-Houae-The Pateo Stores, where Oertain Specialties are ltept-Where the Choice Wines are storedThe Oldest Wines-Plavouring and Colouring Wines of Inferior Quality-Light, Tasty, Moderate-Priced Wiue 193

.

P A R T VI1 The Fauna CHAPTER XXIV ANIMAL8

Rabbits-Wild Animals-Cattle Raising-Beasts of Burden -Horses and their Care-Wool-Qoming-The Domestic Fomls-Turkey-Time-Business Hours-SlaughterHouses-The Time for a SiesLa-The Time for Social Intercourse 223

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C H A P T E R XXV THE ORNITHOLOGY

The Canary-The Petrel-The Meadow P i p i t B i r d s Procreating in Madeiia 241

. . . . . . . . . . . , . . 10

Contente of UoIurne I'll CHAPTER XXVI IGBTHYO$OGY PAGE

Animal-Flowers and Shell Fish-Fresh-Water

Fish-Fish a StapleFood-Tunny-White-bait0ctopus-Best TableFish-Naríne Varieties of Fish . . . . . . . . . 260 CHAPTER X X V I I RPPTILES AND BATRACHIANS

There are no Snakes-Turtles-Turtle-Soup-Lizards-Batrachians

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 CHAPTER X X V I I I INBECTS

Number of Varieties of Insects-Spiders-Tarantulss-The House-Ant-The Helpless Beetle-Cockroach and Cricket -Butterflies and Moths-Beetles, Grasshoppers, and Locusts-Li& of Insects . . . . . . . . . . . . 263

THERISINOTIDE AS MADEIRA.

. . . fiontisplece .

CASTELLO DE JoÃo BAWISTADO PICO

. . . . . opposite

. . . . . . . .

A Gnoup OP FUNCHAL LAD~S A COUNTRYWAN FROX FAYAL.

A CITIZENOP FUNCIIAL . . A COUNTRY-LAS AND A COUNTRY-Lass os

TIIE

. . . . . . .

"

ri3

. . . . . . . .

''

54

MACII~TE &ON

A RICELYOUNGCOUNTRY-LASS . . INTERIOR OF TIIE

. . . . . . CATHEDRAL. . . . . . . .

RUA DO ALJWBI~. TIIE PRINCIPAL SEOPPINO STREET

FUNCDAL BAY . . . . . . . . . . . . UNITED~~TATES CONSULJONES RIDIN(IF TIIROUQií C~nixoGARDBXS .

. . Til142

. . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . A FAR~I. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Boas Succ~ssoWATER-FALL

TEE RABAÇAL WATER-FALLS. Scnnn

IN

. . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

FUNCHAL-A RIBEIRO

RIBEIROFRIOBn~nc:-ti:

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A GROVEo s BANANA-TREES

IIYDRANQEA I-IEDOEAT SANTAANNA

A F ~ o l v a nGARDEN.

45

. . . . . . (' TIII STREET . <' LADOURINO CLASS . . . "

HER

TIIE .ENGLISHCIIURCII. VIEWED

38

. . . . . . . . . . . 13

61 GG

74

"

77

"

102

80

112

TRZESALONG A COUNTRYROAD . . . . . . . opposite TEZESIN TECENEW PUBLICGARDENS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A NATURALFERNERY MAP OF TEE ISLAND OF MADEIRA. COLOURIDTO SHOW DISTRICTS DEVOTED TO VINE-CULTURE . . . . (C FAC-S1ù11tEOB AN OLD BILL OF LADINC+. ~ F : ~ v @PY L(

. . . INTERIOR . . . . . . .

iiCI3h.T POR ~ ~ I E R I C ADATED .

VINE-C~ROTYING IN TI[P

MAY 29.

1780

PAGE

168 171

174 193

' l

194

"

197


198

"

204

"

214

"

227

l1

233

FAC-SI~ULE Oi?AN OLD BILLOB LADING. HEAWSHIPiiCENT POR

A~IERICA~ DATED JUNE 20. 1780

Fdc-SI~IILEo s AN

OLD BILL

OF

. . .

LADINR.WINE SUP-

PLIED TO THE BRITISENAVY.DECE~IBRR 21. 1793 WAYSIDEGRAPE-VINE~ . . . . . . . . . . . Tnn VINTAGIC AT BLANDY'S . . . . . . . . . V r m ~ - G r t o ~ v IN r ~ aTHE SUBURBS . . . . . . . Tnx OXEN ARE GUIDED i%Y THONGS. ASTACHXD TO TIIEIR HORNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . TEZ Bancrr AT SUNRISE. . . . . . . . . . li BUTCIII:RAND RIS VICTIIT . . . . . . . . Tnr?:~ L A C X OB BUSLNESS. . . . . . . . . . LAZY NOONDAY IN THP METROPOLIS . . . . . . l \ T n ~ ~ BRIGIIT-PLUN~~GED ii: RII~DSDWEIAL . . . . A n o r ~TiIE CLOUDS~ WEEItE T i i I BVLZ~LR~, U\VELLS A EEACIIAT Low TIDE . . . . . . . . . . THE T T I N E ~ d ~ D\VHERE . TRE LIZARD IS DREADED . '~~THEREP~ocisIXHMI~I . . . . . . . . . . .

.

201

210

"

234

"

237

"

235

"

241

"

246

"

260

"

259

l1

260

ZLbe %anb of tbe Wine CI-IAPTER X I I LAW AND RELIGION

opt~Iatfon,-Thc pol3izlatioii of the islaiid of Madeira to-day ia aboiit oiie hiiudred aiid forty tl~orisaiid.~OE ihis i~zirnbei*, Fiziichzll, tlie metropolis, coiitaiila aome twenty thoiisand iiihabitaiits, aiid tlie districts bordering tlie city limita are thiclcly popnlated aiid liave as maiiy more. Thus, Fniichal aiid the adjaceiit; ('parisl~es" (as tlie districts aro cslled) liavo a ~opulatioil,a11 told, of aboizt foity thoinsíilnd. The city oE Fiiiiclial is divided iato foiir fregzce(Portiigiieso for parislies), aiid tlie boideriiig districts iiicliide fofoiir more. Administration.-The islaiid is divided into niiie ni-ciiiicipsl districts, or concclJ~os,~ MTlniclz are i11

rw

Chnpter XVI., Deiisity of tlic Populntion. The island was apportioned iiito oo~zoel7~osdiiring t h e years 1511-1516. See Chnpter III,, Clianges iii Adrniniatration. 11.-2

17

Gbe %anb of tbe Uíiite tiirii subdivided into f~eyuezius, to tlie iiumber of forty-eight. These variotis divisions are for tlie pnrpose of admiilistratioil, the city parish beiilg iii some respects lilie t l ~ eAmericali city ward aild the conceZ7~0 lilre the county of ali American State. The conceZ7~ois goveriled hy ali administrudo~*do coszce17~0,alid thc fregueziu by a ~egedorde jinroc7~Zct (ailother word for concel7~o). The liead niitliority, o i con~ptroller,of tlle island is the civil govcrilor, wlio is appointed by tlie Portngiiese govenlmei~ta t Lísbo1i.l TIie preseiit civil goveriioi is D. T11oma.z d'blmeida Maiioel de Vilhena. The f r e ~ z ~ e x i uare s thus apportioiied amoiig the conceZhos : 1. FUNCHAL. Sé, N. 8. Do Monte, Santa Luzia, Sao Gonzalo, Santa Maria Maior, São Pedro, São Roque, Santo Antonio, SLo Martinho. 2. C A M A ~DE A LOBOS. Camara de Lobos, Campanario, Quinta Grancle, Curral das Freiras, Estreito de Camara de Lobos.

3. PONTA DO SOL. Ganhas, Magdalena, Ponta do Sol, Ribeira Brava, Serra d'Agoa, Atabua. 1

i ghapter

VII., Relating to the Goveinor: 18

4. CALH~TA. Arco da Calhêta, Calhêta, Estreito da Calhdta, PrazQres, Fnjãa da Ovelha, Jardim c10 Mar, Paul do Mar, Ponta do Pargo. 5. PORTO MONIZ. Porto Moniz, Achadas da Crirx, Ribeira da JanelIa, Seixal. 6. São VICENTE. Ponta Delgada, Boa Ventura, São Vicente.

7. SANTA ANNA. Santa Anna, Fayal, Sjo Roque, S&oJorge, Arco de Siio Jorge. 8. MACHI~O. Machico, Agua de Pena, Santo Antonio da Serra, Canigal, Porto da Cruz. 9. SANTA CRUZ. Camacha, Cnnipo, Santa Cruz, Gaula.

Porto Santo Concelho.-Tlie islaiid of Porto Santo is reclcoiied as a aingle conceZ7~0,with but oiie fregzbezia. PORTO SANTO. N. S. da Piedade.

The Accomplishments of D.Diniz I,-Diiriiig tlie latter part of tlie tliiiteeilth ceiitiiry the provinces of Portugal were reiinited, aiid D. Diiiiz I. 10

ascended the thone of a newly coiisolidated lringdom. H e took the reins of governrneiit firmly in hand, and proved himself to be a wise and able iiiler. Military Order of 0hrist.-Amoi~g his iaaiiy -achievements was tlie s~iccessfiilestablisliinent of tlie Christiaii faith on a, military basis a t the t
Ilaw anb IRell~fon he liad saved, aiid into which lie had infused new life. What a sweet recompense wonld tliis gencrons aiid magiiaiiimons priiice liave gathered cotild he have seeii the glorioiis coilseqileaces -vvliicl.iresultecl froin liis beiiefits-coiild lie have foreseeii tliat a ceiitnry later a graiid master of tliat saine order, tlie immortd Infante D. Heiiry, leaiiiiig peiisively over tlie waves which beat agai~istCape St. Yiiiceiit, shoiild c~iiceivethe grand thoilglit of effectiiig, witli oiily the mews at cominaiid of t l ~ eOider, tlie discovery of the islandsl aiid the regioiis wliosc existeiice lie sris-* miscd l Could he havc olsserved liow tlie Bliiglits, fiildiag Portiigal too iiarrow for tlie vastiiess of their adventuresoine spiril;, woiild cross tlie 1111kiiowi1 seas to plaiit the foniidatioiis of Portiiguesr! powes oii tlie otlier side of tlie globe, aiid assiriaoa distiiict place iii tlie aiiiials of tlle people! D. Diiliz coiild iiot IOresee a11 tliese acts, aiiy more tlim lie coiild diviiie that the piiie-trees plaiited so carefi~llyoii tlie heigllts o£ Leira, ili order thst tlie violeiice of the sea breezes alioiild For an accoirnt of tlie discovery of i110 Mndeirns by Zargo's expedition, wliicli was eqiiipped nnd sent o ~ i tby Prime EIeiiry, see Cliapter 11. 21

not coves witli nioiiiitaiiis of saiid, washed by the sea, the fertile plaiiis of llis resideilce, woiild form the luuiiriant aild immense forests from ~vlleilce to biiild tlie sl~iipswhereiii the lriiigl~tsaiid brave sailors sailed across tlic seas to wideii the domiilions of Port~igal,aiid prepare the basis of A commerce whicli was to joiii the two parts of tlic world. V h a t fsnita are still iil store for the futiire yet to be gathered froin tlie beiieficeilt iiistitiitioiis of so eiilighteiied and priideizt a priilce!" Exceptiiig d-tiriug tl-ie period of Spaiii's sxiqsemacy oves Portiigal, 1580-1640, the Military Order of Christ has contiiiiied to be the rnliilg institntioil of tlie Portuguese lringdoin, and today its antliority is snpreme: its chief officer, the preseilt lciilg, makes a11 ecclesiastical appoiiitThe Roman Catholic Church.-F~iiichal is a a e~~iscopuclo, or bishol?ric, a11d directly scrvil-ig tl-ie

' When tlie chief officer of the Military Order of Clirist dies, a11 the officials of churcli and state are required to observe a period of mourning, concluding with a ceremony known as tlie "Breaking of the Crown," before tlie succeeding monarch may fill the place of the Ordei's chief officer. See Chapter XV., Fête-Days annd Religious Celebratious. 22

bishop are a piirveyor, a siipeivising curate, and a scriveiier. The preseilt bishop of Madeira is P). Mailoel Agostiiilio Barreto. The Bishop of Madeira.-The Bisholi of Madeira has tlie siipervisioii of some forty-nine churches, there beiilg a cliurch in every parisli of tlie islaiid. A staff of about oiie hniidred and teii priests condnct the seivices of the various chiiiches. A Monastery of By-gone Days.-Oii the spot wliere the New Piiblic Gardeiis (Chapter VII.) are sitiiated there once stood a great monasteryl aiid a cliapel, whose iiiterior decorations consisted eiltirely of liiimaii slculls aiid cross-bones, t o the iiiimber of some tlirce thoiisaiid three h n d r e d . It is related that tlie crumbliiig ruins ievealed oiie day two skeletoas wliicli had been biiilt i i ~ t o tlie walls ; l;he story of mliich, doubtless an ancieiit tragedy, will ever coiitiiiiie to be as completely iialrao\vii as tlie ideiitity of the boily reinaiiis. Nunneries : Convento de Santa Izabe1.-Adjoiiling tlie Hospiqio Santa Casa da Misericordia Tlie ruins of a Franciscan monastery atand on the road to Macliico, Chapter VIII. 23

Ghe Zlanb o€ tbe Ullíne (Cliapter VIL) is tlie Conveiito de Santa Ixabel, wlieyefemale orphaiis are cared for. Convento d o Bom Jesus.-Tlie Convento do Boiri S e ~ i i soffera a l-iome to widows aiid t o rnarried ladies wliose liusbands have left tllem temliorarily. S l ~ i scoiiveilt was foriiided iii the year IGGG. Convento das Merces.-A Cnpuchii~i~uiiiie~y. is tlio Coilvento das Merccs, opeiiecl in tlie year 1654. Ita iiiles are veiy atrict, practically excliidiiig visito1.s. Convent of Santa Clara.-Iii 1492, the year of Anierica's discovery, tlie Coiiveiit of Sai~taClara was foulided. I-Iere dwelt the beaiitiful uiiils wlio are s u n g of iil tlie verses of many poets. Heiii*yNelsoii Coleridge is cpoted as haviiig said, I a tlie year 1825, " I Ç yoinr whim 01%yoiir necessities sl-ioiild lead you t o Madeira, go, for my salce, t o tlie 11ii1111ery of Sailta Clara." Sister Clementina, the Most Beautiful Woman.It was thero, aild at tlle time Goleridge is qiiotcd as having said t h e foregoing, that Sister Clementiiia, the rnost beaiitif~ilwomaii oÇ Madeira, lived iii seclusioii. Iii the chapel adjaceilt to this coiiv~i.it;is Zargo7s tomb.'

%aw nnb 'IReIi~ioii was iii b ~ - ~ o i times le ilie cnstoiii to birry tlie dcad beiicath tlie floora of tlle cliurches, as is doiie iii maiiy o l the old-time cliiircl-ies of Europe. Biit iiow tliis iiiisailitary pi*actice has bee~iabolished, aiid cvery yarisl~iii Madeira lias its ceinctery. The Portuguese General ~emetery.-Tho rortiigiiese geiierel coinetcry is tlie IargcsL ailcl inost iinportalzt. It is sitirated iii Fiiiichal, 011 seacliIrs opposite tlie E ~ n l ~ r c oP s s Brazil's liospital, 3t ia pictnrosqiiely arraiiged arid is plaiited witli cypresses. Masonry.-&s maili gate~ily'ia o£ esqi~isitcly caived Ca122avial stoiie, and is a good qample OS iiiLtive stone-cutters' skill. Tlie elevatioa o11 wliicli it stands ia Bnowa as Aiigirstias I-Iill. Toiiibstoiiex stand at the heads o[ inaliy of thc graves, birt the siglit of photograplis oE tlic dcccascd iii bleck fraines atl;aclled to thc toinbat;oiie~ is ,z decidedly uiiiamiliar oile to tlie foreigiior. The Hebrew 0emetery.-h EIebrcw ccmctcry is sitnated just without tlio town limita, ailcl carvcrl ovci tlie maiii eirti*ailceis ai1iasoriptioi~i11 13ebrcw, meaning, iil Englisli, " Roiise of the Livi iig.') Burial of Natives.-It

Clinpter IX., Quarries oE Cantnria Building-Sl;ono, 26

Cbe %anb of tbe Wftte The Residents' ~urial-Ground.-Tliere are two E~iglishceineteries. The first was established in 1764, before wliicli date the English resideiits were required to Isury their dead iii tlie sea. Iiideed, it was some years after the cemctery was opeiied ere the bodies iiiterred tl-ierein could be regarded as safe fkoin desecrating haiids. Tliis first-established cernete~yia líilowii as tlle Resideiits' Bivial-Groiiiid. A high wall iiow eilcloses it;, aud it is infsequeutly ased. The New British Cemetery,-Across a narrow wny is the iiew Eritish Cemetery, wliich ?vas o~eiiediii 1852. Its entrame is oii%lie Cuwei~a, a iiiain thoronghfare. It is beaiitified with trees aiid floweriiig plaiits and is -cvell kept. Tlioiigh it is a sad place to visit, it ~~evertlieless iilspires tTie Euglishman or Americaii 1vitl-i a certain feeliiig of rid de aiid satisfactioil wlien be realizes that his people have tl~eirburial-groiiiid in tliis far-mvay cor~ntry,aiid that maiiy o£ thc descendo ailts of those here bilried are living iii Madeira to-day and are neai. at liaiid to greet hiin. The Strangers' Cemetery. -Ailother burialgrouild, luiomii as tlie Strangers' Cemetery, wns opened iii 1808, and was i~sedfoi the iiltermeiit 26

oE I3i.ii;isli visitors wlio died iiz tlio i~laiidbcEoi8o tlio 01)cniiig oP tlic ilow cemctcry. T t ia sitiinted oii til ~ i c c oP c laiid acljaceiit to t,hc biiritd-groniict iiow iii uso. Britisli Churches,-Wliilc tlic oficially ~~ccog~iixeclroligion o i Llic ielniids i.r Roxi~siiC:ili;lioilic, Llic Cliui*clioí' .14iiglnlid aiiil tlio Free Chizi*clia i Scotlnlid ara a l ~ rcl~rosoiit;cS o iii Mthcleira; indcocl, a coloiiy oE soino scvoii hiziid.i~?iBritisli iosillciits owii uiid coxit;rol tlic cliioP izitci*cst~ oE t11o ialaiid, au(1 witlioirl; T3ril;isli ti~nctcinariy oE tho lin1;'~ v c s wonld bo iii 1~ coiiditioii oE scini-~tarvntioil, SIio .13iitiah woizld. bc all-l)awcrfizl dicl tlwy liolcl tlio licy to irnj?isovurizoilt,-viz., thc govorninorit. Tlie Church o f England,-Ali iiistailco oP tlioir lnok OS 1)olitical powor int~ybo citod by i.oculliiig tlie ilillCZorzltios ~witllwliicli thc crcctinii oE tlio ii_]iiglislzCliiir~li,~ il~iringtlic onrly parh oE tho ~l"'csci~t ceiiLiiry, was attondccl. Pcrinissioii wau gi*arit;cclby tbc Poi*tzigncscgovoi~iimoiitoiily n1)on t l ~ ocoilditioii tliat thc oclifica slioiild boar iio ccolcaiaatic appcarLziico ; tliiis it caizie aboi~ttlint tho Eiiglirsli Cliiii'cli liaa 1ioil;har atcol~loiior bolla, 111; ia a l~ictixrcsqzic-lookilg biiildilig, ~iov~z,1*111olot3s, GlinpLor XV., Tlio 13iiglisli Ohiirch. 27

m d is sitiiatcd iii tlie inidst of a most lovely gardcii. A patliway leads beileath the arching branches of a dorible row of trees froin the roadway t a the maiii entrance doors. The Free Church of Scot1and.-Tlie Free Cliurcli of' Scotlaiicl. was established iii Biiiiclial at a some~vliatIntci. period tliaii the Eaglish Church. 111deed, it Iòiiiid zm opeiiiiig iinder circnil~~taiices whicli did iiot attead the entry of thc Eilg1isl.i Cl-iui.cli,for its erectioii was pcrmitted ili the iisnal ccclesizlstical style. Withiil reccllt years it has czijoyecl a prospeiity wl-iicblias affordcd rcciirriiig op~ortuuiitiesfor congratrilatioii iil tlie i.el3oi.t~of tlle Asaeinbly7s Coloiiial Comiili$tee:

CIIAPTBR X I I I ATTITUDE TOWARDS FOREXGNEnS ; ADMIIXATJ[ON F O E AME~ICYANS ANNEXATXON TO '1'IY.X UNITED

STATEE! TIIE (TEEED

ritíob flDoitopolp of tbe Coi~tiiic)tce,11s cl~ow1iei.cincntioi~cd,three-fourtha OStlie wiiio trade is iii tlle liniicls or t k E i ~ ~ l i s aiid l i , ~lieai'ly a11 tlic largei' sliippiiig iirms aiicl baiiliing houscs are owned aiid Siiiniicici.od by Englisliinen. Ir3[oiice it is ~ i o to t bo woiidcixd ai; tliat the igiioraiit clasaes of Portngrioso for some time dislilied thc X11glish. Tlic writei l-ias gilcat l)llcastti-c iii acldiilg, however, tliat iiow a11 ai~tegoi~istic spirit ali ilio llarl; of tlie iistivcs is entircly absciit, aa M:bdcirai~sOS a11 classca have coine to rcalize that tlic Bli~glisli, wliilc inaaopoliats, are lciiid aiid bciieficcut innsteils, a1id treat their cinployees com~ncrcinllywitli. a higher degrce of Christinii ooiiaidcratiori tlian do pei;hal~sib11y other pooplo iii thc woi~lcl. And Uhapter XXIII,, Tlia Vilia aiiil tlio T i n a * 29

&he U n b oE tbe mine theii, too, tlie natives iiow ~iilde~staiid that foi their better ai-ippo~tthey must look largely to tlie British, wllo, as colonists iii Madeira as iii a11 other backward countries, are iiivariably tlie first to nlalce a garden i11 the barren plaiii of ilecesaity, and to cultivate thereiii the finer plaiits of iiidiistry, mhile at the same time they remove the weeds of igiiorance detrimentd to siich iiew growtl~. A good illustratioiz of the formcr ignoiaiit antipatliy foi the Eilglish inay be seeil by loolring &ck a few yems, sey to tlie wiiiter of 1859-90, when, at tlie close of the Aiiglo-Portiiguese troiibles in South Afiica, Serpa Pinto,' the Portiiguese leader, haviag been defeated iii Afiica, retiimed to Lisbo~l.~Wlieii the tidiilgs of tliese eveilts and of Ei~glaiid's supremacy reaclied. &Iadeira, tlie ilatives there were stirred to bitter strife and riotiiig against the Eiiglisli resideiits. The mriter mas iii Madeira a t this tiine, aiid for a short wliile fighting was fast and furioiis. Hostilitie~were brouglit to a snddeii termination in a most iinexpected inaiiiier. Tllis was a t a time mhich m i g b well be termed tlle crisis of a

Serpa Pinto died at Lisbon in December, 1900. Chapter IV., The African Question. 30

attfttibe towarbe $orei~nere thc attaclc npoii the English; it was oii the liight before the day of tlie expected arrival of the Britis1.i war-sliips, a aight loag to Be remenibered. The Fight of 1889,-The slry was starless ; tlie niooii, obscured behiiid a heavy mass of threatening cloiids, cast biit a diin aild fitfiil light. Oiie coiild iiot eveiz distiilgiiisli fiom the windows wllat was going on iii the street below, for Fiiiiclial was iiot tlieii blessed witli electricity aiid gas, lilro oiir cities a t lioine. A t iiiglit tlie towi~was aaturdly very daik, there beiiig i10 lam$$"siii tlle streets, except iii a few of thc piiblic sqiiares? There was a distaiit miirmniiiig souiid, snch as tliat whicli precedes a comiilg storm. The miirmiiriiig giew louder aad louder, and soon voices were distiilgiiishable, togetlier with the soiiiicl of hiirryiiig footsteps. A gleaming of torclies was observable i111 tlie street, aild ali iilfi~riatedrabble, yelliiig, gestic~ilating,aiid braiidishing clubs, knivcs, aiid similar weapoiis, apMany of the streets and principal buildings are now ligllted by electricity. See Cliapter XVI., LETTERFROM UNITBDXTATES CONSULJONES TO THE WRITER, The Elecbrio-Light Plant. 51

peared aroiind the cornei of the hotel, "Miles Carmo " (tlie Ei-iglish hotel), opposite which, iii a small qaiiita (cottage), the writer resided with his fami1y.l On reachiilg the hotel the mob siirrounded it. Tlie proloilged, blood-curdling yells which reiit tlie ai5 aiid swayed back aiid fortli like peals of th~iiiderfivom the maddciled crowd, were eiioiigli to malce the stontest heart qiiail. Tlie torches o£ the inob fiashed liiridly iii the blackiiess of the iiigllt, and tlieir reflected ligllt glittered iipoii tlie kiiives that many of the rioters braiidished. Tlie rioters scemed entirely withoiit organization, but their desire t o do l-iarm was only too al~pareiltas they threateuiiigly shook theii fists a t t11e old walls of tlie hotel. Happily for the miter aiid liis fmily, the crowd's oiie idea was to get iiito the hotel; the mob did iiot kiiow oí' the writer's occiipaiicy of the qiiiiite across tlie way. EIad they 1~110~11, two or three blows fsom the heavy cliibs which they flouiished woiild @

In a LETTER FROM UNITED STATXS GONSULJONESTO

. . .

TECEWRITER,Chapter XVI., he says, " I remember your being at the Cnrrno Hotel annex on the night of the rom. Rather a stirring night tliat I I " 32

have brokeii iii the froiit door, aiid tlicii-well, a t such a momeiit i t would have beeii impossible for tlie writer's fa~iilyto prove their iiatioiiality as Americaiis and 11ot as Eiiglisli. Jiist abo~ztthie &age of the attack, wlieii tlie mob seeined to be undecidcd as to wliat to do ilext, a wiildow iii ai1 upper rooin of tl-io hotel was raised aiid a splasli of iallii~gwatei was I-ieard. Sonie one liad foolishly throwil a basiii of water oii the rioters. A f~~sillade of stones was followed by eiiraged yells as the infilriated natives rnshed savagely at the fioiit door of tlie hotel, and began poniidiiig it witli their heavy clubs. Tl-ie rioters were iiow at w o ~ k iii eaiinest. Witllin tho hotel a11 was coiif~~sion. Tliree waiters, pluclrier t l ~ a ntlie rcst, aiid severa1 of the gnests who possessed pis-tols had placed thernesclves beliiiid tlie inaiii eiitraiiee, msolved to mako a despcrate rcsistance aiid to se11 their lives as dearly as possible. The dooi. was begiiiaiiig to give way, aiid wild clieers of exultatioii razg out .above tl-ic tumillt as the glii-iimer of torches revealed gliinpses of tlie excited ilatives, wlio appeared like f~lriesiii 11.-3

33

Cbe Zanb of tbe Mine the darkiiess. Fortiiaately, a t tliis iiiomcnt ghouts iii the rear caused the iiivaders to paiisc. A Itand of two hiiiidrccl incii, arined with boatliooks, spars, aild similar weapolis, siiddeilly appeared oii tlie sceiie aiid immediately attacked the rioters. A íierce fight eliaued, but, owiiig to the superior discipliile wliicli existed amoiig the new-coiners aiid the complete surprise by whicli they htld talren tlie rioters, tlie strnggle was a sliort oi~c. The rescuers turiicd oiit to be boatmeii, rêdc-mcii (hammock-bearers), aiid carro-incn (cart-drivcrs), wliose bread and biitter depeilded, inorc or lesa, oii tl-ie foreigiiers' employiilg thein. These mexi had bniided together hastily, having aimed tlieinselves witli wliatever tlicy coirld Bnd at haiid. They arrived oii tlie sceiie jiist i11 time to roiit tlieir fellow couiitrymcii aiid save tlieir ~ati'ons. Tlie Poituguese trool~saiid police liad previously beeii called 1111011, biit iii vaiii, for protection : they were too inucli iii sympatliy with t l ~ erioters to interfere. Tlie victory, iievertl.ieless, was complete. Native Friendliness for the Americans.-Now, il; so Iiappeiis that, though, iil. their igi~oi.aiicc,thoy 34

used to dislike tlie Eiiglisli, the Msdeirans linve beeii for a long time ardeiit ndmirers of the American8. A very cnrions iiotioii exists amoiig tliese simple islanders, to the effect that the Americai1 natiou desires their ailiiesntioii, aild tliat, indeed, America iieeds their snpport. Ask a Madeiraii of average iiitelligeiice what bis opiiiioii is on the tnatter. 13e wilI inost likely iiiform yoii, with the greatest assumnce, t l ~ a t1.e t aniiexatioii of Madeira to the United States is a settled thing, and tliat Ui~cleSam is biit awaiting a favourable opportiiility to ~tretehforth his hand to the Madeirans and lift them from uilder the monaichicxl Portug~iesey olre. Natives down-trodden,-It is plaiii to see by this that the Madeil.aiis have 110 love for their motliel*c01111try. Wc11, they are dreadfiilly over-ridden. Tlicir highest ideal is to Iselong to or be irndei the ~rotectioil of some great republic; tliey natirrdly look to the United States as the greatest. They judge a11 other Iririgdoms by their o w n a i ~ dthei.efore do not believe it to be possible thnt the siibjects of aily kiiigdom can have so many iightts aiid be so fiee as tlie people of a republic. 35

G'he Platzb of t'he Wine 111 point

of fact, the siibjects of tlie niiglitiest oÇ a11 kiiigdoins, Great Britaiii, eiijoy as miicli liberty of tliought and actioii iii every way as tlie people of the Uiiited Stafes. For soiiie iilcoilceivable reason, tlie geiieral idea exists amoiig Madeiraiis tliat woilie day the p e o ~ l eof tlie United States are going to inalce war o11 their liome goveriiment, Portiigal, for tlie salce of f'reeiilg them. Poor, igiiorailt, down-troddeii cineatures! No doiibt tliere are maiiy lilce yonrselves, iii couiitries reinote aiid iiear, who would weep for joy if tliey xaw tlieir dreacled moiiarchical flag torii dowii aiid siipplaiited by tlic peiinaiit of freedom,-the s t a ~ saiid istripes. Blcssed also are the people who live iiiider tl-ie protectioii of tlie Britisli flag. Despotic Law.-Thc vord of the Portngiiese liiiig nieaiis aliiiost clespotic law t o liis siibjects. Thougli the lciilg wlio died some twelve years ago was a inost wise, jnst, aild iioble rnler,l yet eveii during liis reigii, aiid also to-day, duriiig tlie reigii of the presciit ino~iarcli,~ tlzo poorer a

Chapter IV., Reign of Dom Lniz I. Chapter IV., Dom Carlos I., tho Present Ring. 36

Httitube towarbe $orefgner~ classes oP Portugal alid of hei. coloiiics have been and are dreadftilly dowii-troddeii. Tliis ia not ncccssartily tlio fault of tlio rider himself; it is rntlici. the faiilt of tlie form of goveriimeiit over wliicli hc rnles aiid of tlic corri~ptaiid uiipriiiciplcd. oEcials tlirougli wliom 11e issues llis maii(lates. Bad Government.-The King oí' Portugal kiiows biit little of tlic tiaiic state of affairs existiiig iii liis coiiiitry alid amoiig liis people. His life seenis t o bo corit,iiiiially misrepresei~ted,and tliis by his repilesentatives, tlio goverilmeiit officials, who lic to liiin regardiiig his people aiid who lie to his peoplc regardiiig liim. The Army.-Iii Madeira tIie military are 11~1inonred aild fiattered witliont stiiit. A11 ablebodied youiig incii are olsliged to serve in the army eitlicr a t liome or abroad, more fiequeiitly Z;lzelatter. The Madeirana have a well-recognid rai~lr:i11 tlie Portiiguese army as the greatest fighters. Wlieii recriiited, the futiire destiiiatioiis of the yoiixig soldicrs are decided by lot. The yoiiiig fc110w~~ are made to draw fiorn a box slips of pai'" 011 whicli are writteil tlie posts to which 37

they are assigned for diity, and the l e n g t l ~OStime tliey must serve iii the goveriiiiient's employ. One fellow will draw a papcr 011 whicli is written somethiiig to this effect : " Sir, Yoii si-e commarided by His most Gracio~isMajcsty, the Kiiig, to take ship immediately for Mozainùiqiic, tlicro to report for duty iil yonr goverilineiit's service, aad there to reinaiii for the tcism oÇ fivc ycars." Anotlier fellow will draw a l-raper oii whicli ia writteii tlie aiinouiiceiiieiit tl-iat Iic rniist immediately report for diity in Fiiiichal, thcrc to ren~aiil i11 liis goveriimeiit's service for oiic year. 111 a11 cases tfie'se orde~s,issued aiid drxwii b y cliance, must be obeyed. Defensive Structures.-The defei~sive~tructnrcs oÇ F ~ ~ i i c hcompi~isc al teii forts aild battcrics. Tlic largest aad best preserved of tlic fosta ai-c thc Loo Roclr Fortl siid ~ a s t e l l ocle JoZo Hattistn do Pico, or the Peak Fort. Loo Roclc ia cqiiippcd with foiirteeii guils aiid lias a magaziilc aiid bai*racks. It coininaiids tlie eiitraiice to tho bay, being built oii Loo Roclc, ali islct scvcilty fcct liigh, at t.he f~irtherextremity of thc brcalcweter. "Loo ')ia a corruption of

" Illieo," mcnning rooky ialel;. 38

CASTELLO

OE JO&O BATTISTA

DO PICO.

At night its red light cai1 *be seen at a distance by the people oii iiicomiag vessels. Tlie Peak Port occiipies a comrnai~diiigposition above the $ 0 ~ 1 and 1 gffords a11 exteiisive view o f the siirronildiag coiiiltry and of tlie oceaii. Fort Baii Tliiago, licad-clizarters of Fuiichal'a artillery, is situated oii the eoast to the east of the town.

CHAPTER XIV THB SOUIAL LIPE

ebinb tbe afine$,--Are Madeiralis beliiiid tlie times? A. pleasailt, briglitfaced yoiiiig iiative, soii of a wealthy F~~iiclzal merchailt, once asked the writer if tlie Civil Wsr lzad come to a close. This was iii 1889. Althougli singularly igiiorant as to tlie topics of tlio world at large, for they rarely if ever sec a, iiewspaper, the ladies are fliieiit iii sinal1 talk aild iii the traditiolls of their cotiiitry, tlieir people, their families, aiid theii*iiative superstitions. A t a dinizer-l~artyone eveaiiig iii Funchal, a pretty aiid stherwise clever youiig lady veizt~ired tlie rernai.1~tlistt Presideiit Wasliingtoii miist be a very popular old geiitlcmail iii tlie Uiiited States. Thc writei replied that Presideilt Washii~gton had been clead for some years. Tlie lady's face tliereupon Becaine siacerely sympathotic as she oxl~~essed l-ier regret by sayiilg, 'i I am so sorry at this iiews ! It is, indeed, suddeii to me, for it is the first I have lleaid of it." 42

A GROUP OF F U N C H A L LADIES.

Madeiran Aristocracy,-With i10 other class of 1)eople iii tlio worlcl is iiitercourse more delightfiil tliali witli t11c Mudeiraii aristocracy. The wellbrcd atrwiiger ia a t oiico inade to fcel liimself a liiglily distiiigixisl~ed aiid importaiit persoiiage by reasoii oE tlie innily gracioiis hospitalitiea ilivnriably ~110~11 hiin. The Ladie8,-The ladies of Madeira aro especially bcaiitiSii1, aiid tlieir Sasciiiatiizg inaiiiiera eiitraiice tho Sorcigrier who is Sortniltlte eiioizgli to secui8e tlie lionoizr oP ali i~itrodizctioiito tlieir society. r1 lhcy aro iiigciiiious, clcvor liiigiiists aiid coiivors:~tioiinlists,poswascd of niauy rcsoizrces withiii thcinsclvce, alid t~st~ally gificd witli coiisiderable mtzsicnl tnlcrit. Xii tempeiameiit romaiitic, liery, aiid emotiaiial, they are in rnaaiiei*elegaiit tlnd i.esei*vcd. 111 atatiire they are zisiially finely proportiolied, and tlieir carriage ia zinaflcctedly free aiid grncefiil. Ladies' ~ress.-Tliey appear iii public gowiied in blaclr, a colour of which they are passionately foiid,l aiid tlley wear their hair, which is geiierally long aiid Blaclr, loosely iz~ontlieir shouldera, Cliaptor XV., Attiro of Ladios of tlie Aristooracy. 45

Gbe ZaitB of t'be "Ql[l"lfne ~ilaitediii a braid, or piiiiied in a eoil with oriiameiited piiis 2nd combs. Wearing of ~ewel1ery.-Plaiii gold oriiameiits alid old-fashioiied toljaz jemellery fioin Brazil are miich ~voriiby tlieiii. (See foot-note t o " Laclr of Coiilage i11 the Proviiices," Chapter XV1.I) Their features are regular, their complexioil darlí; aiid their eyes laiignishiiig. Iiideed, the laagnishiiig eyes of tlie Madeira11 bcaiit;y are never to be forgotteri by the foreigiier who lias oiice encouiltered their penetratiiig glniice. The droopiilg eyelid is a characteristic, aiid loxig silken Inshes discreetly protect tlic feinale cyca aild are Iifted only occasionally, wheii tlie eyes flash briglit and trile like radiaiit genis. Tlie fair Madeiraii2 ex~osesher eyes as the fair Eriglishwomail exposes her jewels,-i. e., oiily oii proper occasioiis. There ia a mentiou of jewel wearing in Clinpter XV., Where tlie Aristocracy viewed tlie Ceremoiiy. a Neninu, the Portuguese mord for iufant or child, npplies to a11 unmarried woinen, and is usurilly prefaccd to a womnn's name in place of Miss. It is rnther odd to hear an elderly spinster of some fifty summers addressed as cliild or infnnt. See foot-note in Chapter II., Nicknames. 46

Good Manners.-Good inaiiiiers are cultivated aa ali accoinplislime~itiii maiiy laiids, biit iii Madcii*a tlicy mtly bci iagardcd as ali iiiborii cliztructeristic OS tlie people. Domestic servaiitsl iicvci*call oiie anotl~crby tlieir Christiaii liames, birt iiivaritzbly 1)refix Seiilior niid Seiiliora. Native Forma1ities.-Thcy inust be addresseil.by tlicir employers as VossC, a coi~tractioiioE Vossa Meilcc (incaiiiiig "Yoiir EIoiiour "). Wlieii a iiative oE iiifc?rior statioii is tondcrcd citlier a gift or liis ,jiist cluc, 110 impriiits a ]
Cbe %anb of tbe uulítte noda llis head and says, qilickly, aad in pollparrot fashioil, '' Good-by," rarely kiiowing that he is abbreviatiiig tlie senteilce "God bc witli ye;" the Madeiraiz bows gracefully aiid says, " 0, Senhor, passe muito bein até o outra dia, se Dios quizer " (Oh, sir, may yoii remaiii iii much healtli until iiext we meet, God williilg). Busiiiess os social ineetings are opeiied by numerotis iiiterchaiiges of compliineiltary grceting ere the busiiless or social topics are discussed, and tlie bowings aad scrapings that are gone throiigh with oii these occasions are painf~~lly polite. A Thrilling Adventure.-Time can nover erase fi~ointlle writer's memory the miiiutest details of a certaiil cal1 that he received from a police official wlio was iil search of ai1 escaped negro criminal and liad beeii detailed to ascertain whetlier the writer might iiot bc the said riiilaway i11 disguise. It was the swelteriilg time of the day wheii tlie official called, aild lie was stont and excecdingly daiip. But 11e bowed cereinoniously aild the moist~tredroppecl copiously froin his face. Wlieii 11e deposited liimself iil a small caiie chair, the writer expected to see the caiie break ; it only crealred, but the official arose laboriously aiid 48

ngai~ibowcd witli dnc ccrcmoi~y,miittering someIdiiiig tliat souiided lilce " Ta-ra-ra-booin-de-aye!" (Tlic writcr liad iiot tlioii zlcqiiircd tlle langnage.) Dcforc? rcscatiiig liimsclí' in a stroiiger cliaii the oi6cial bowcd oiice moro. Tlieii lic silcntly coiitc!iiil)latccl liis victim iiiitil tlze pailtiiig brouglit oii X)y liis rccc?nt csertioas aiibsided sufficieiztly ta nllow liiin to sl)calr, ~vlien110 begail propoiindiug iii brolccri Niigli~ha sorics of iiiqiiiries as to tlzc writcr's idciitity. A s lio proceeded iii this exnniiiii~tionlic grcw assei*tive aiid overbearing, nxicl ilio writcr fclt clisinsyccl lest tlie oficial MI~OIIICZ by l i i ~owii peciilinr rcasoaivg form the coiicliisioii tliat lic liad fofouiid the crimiiid of whoin lic was iii qiicat. Being biit lately awived, tlio writcr's coiiiplcsioiz liad 11ot yet bccome si~fficiciilly tuiiiicd to concctzl i,lie palciicss that lie felt ~111'0111usf; havc ovcrsprct~dhis ~o~iii1;ciia11ce at t l i i ~jniicturo. A Hair-Breadth Escape,-Wow, "lie wlio Gghhs axid riiiis awny may livc to figl-it aiiotlici day," biit I' lic" ie tisually callccl a cownrd by tlie 1111symp:~tliirc;iiig,rliopillacc. Tlio writer exycrieiiced l;lio iiicliiiatioii to rirli, alid witl~tliat iiiclination caino tlic 1)allor to liis couiitcnt~ricc. 011, l l a ~ y ~ y 40

incliiiatioii ! oh, welcoine pallor ! A realization that it would be diffic~iltto rui1 away oii a siriall, foreigil island preveiited liim from beating an iincligilified retreat. But tlie pczllor i-emaiiicd, aild the fat official, with eyes riveted o11 the w~iter's~face, suddeilly started aback, and struggled stoutly to hie feet, exclaimiiig :"Zir, because yon had not got yoiir ticlcet ohf resideilze, I zoiight perliaps yoii were ze escaped negro crimirisl, bu t YOU are ~'Z'te, ali' YOU zerefore can not be lze." So relieved Ta8 the writer b y the removal oP the cloiid of suspicioiz niider wliich he had uiiwittingly placed liiiilself, by liis failurc t o comply with tlie islaiid law tliat cvery strailger innst buy a ticket of resideilce iminediatcly after Iaiidiiig,l thnt 11e proceeded t o sliow tlle departiiig official every politciiess. Tliis he acconiplislied by bowi i ~ gi11 ~1iis01zwitll liis visitor, wlio was bowing lziniself to tlle door. The late snspect, liornever, felt some paiigs of superstitioil when lie bowed foi8tlie final and thirteeizth time. Aild he straightwny set about to secnre tlic desirable ticket of reaideiice. Chapter V., Ticlret of Resideme Requirement. 60

A OOUNTRYMAN FROM FAYAL.

Native Character.-Let 11s returii for a rnoment to tlie subject of cl~aiacteristicsof tlie Madeiraii~,~ for an interestiiig coiltsast is fo~iiidbetweeli the peasaiitsy aiid tbe lower class of towiis-people, The Peasantry.-Mnch cai1 bo said iil praise of the peasantry : they are thrifty, hard-wos$ing, hoiiest, straiglitforward, aiid tliougli, as a riile, simple aiid iatlier stiipid, they are cleanly and devoiit. Religious Life,-As sooii as it cai1 talk anil uiiderstand, the peasaut child is made to learii " O Padre Nossov (the Lord's prayei*)and tlie varioiis aiticles of religioli;' and the pareiits bide literally by the dictates of the Bible, rarely stirriiig fkom home save to iualce a pilgrimage t o some religious festival3 or holy place, aiid i11 most cases living a11 their lives aiid dyiiig upoii the soil of theii forefathers. Biblical Gustoms..-Diiriiig tlie heat of the siimis a pictiiresque spectacle to see tlie peasants tilling their fields iii tlie mooiiliglit as tliey clia~it Chapter IV., Race. Chapter XII., The Roinan Gatholic Church. Chapter VII., Feast of the Assumption. W

Ulse %anb of tbe U i n e hymns and 1,iaises to their Heaveiily Father? Many of the agrictiltural implemeilts employed are fashioned after tliose described iii tlie Bible, aiid the ox treads out tlie corii iiiirniizzled and eating as lie worlcs, iii obediente to tlie commaiidment, '' Thou shalt iiot muzzle tlie ox that treade t l ~out tlie com." Mai-iy otlier Biblical c ~ ~ % t o n ~ s are observed amoiig tlie peasai~tsy,aiid tlie subject here toiiched ul~oiiis treated further iii other ~hapters.~ The Towns-People,-Very little which is commeiidable cai1 be said of tlie lower classes of the towus-people: tlicy are striclceii with poveity and are of s lazy, slovealy dispositioli. Famine.-The island beiiig over-pop~ilated,~ it is iio uiicommoi~ eveilt for a faiiiiiie4 to occiir among tlie Fuiiclialese wheii a scarcity caiises the niarket price of food to rise above iiormal. Chapter VII., Moonlight Excursions. Other Biblical custoins are described in Chapter XV., FBte-Days aiid Religious Celebrations; Cliapter VII., As in Biblical Days. Statistics of the Population of Madeira, Chapter XII. Chapter VII., Legend of the Fountain ; Chapter XVI., Density of the Population, MADEIRAIN 1898. 54

Baron Conceição, the Corn-Giver.-Once when a fainine was prevaleiit in the town, a wedthy POF tugi-iese resideat, named Seilhor Figueira, threw open his doors to the poor and snpplied tliem witli a11 the food which they needed. The king, on accoiliit of this act, afterwards cieated Senhor Figueira Baroii Coiicei~áo,the latter title meaniilg i11 Eiiglish '' coin-giver." Baroiless Coilceiçáo's maideri name was Miss Lailgstroth. Slie carne originally from Germaiitowi~,iiear Pl-iiladelphia. Baioii Concei$i.o died a aiiimber of years ago, aiid the baroness now lives witli her daughter, who is married to a Di. Jardim. Iii winter they occupy tlie late baroil's rnagiiificeiit estate,' which is sitilated on a highlalid directly outside tlie city ; diiiing the siimmer moi~tlistlie baroness resides at h e home ~ in the inomitains iiear Caniaclla. Over-~opulatioii~ is doiibtless the indirect cause of iniich of the beggary. Asylo da Mendicidade.-In 1847 the Asylo da Meiidicidade, a11 almshonse, was opened. Up to

a

Chupter XV., Dinner at Baronees Concei$a's, Chapter XII., Population.

11.-4

ti7

Cbe Ilnnb

of tbe -"QXAíne

that time there had been i10 cliaritable orgaaizatioils of sucli a cl~aracteiin Fnriclial. The Asylo is sitiiated oii Aiigustias Hill. 011 an average about twenty-two iiew apl~licaiitsare accepted every yeai.. Beggars.-Iii a book oii Madeira recently issned tlie aiilhor states that "tlie strects linve beeii miicli relieved o i tliose wlio lay iii wait to exhibit tlieir rags aiid deforinities to tlie passer-by or t o POLI^ the tale of tlicir distresses iiito his uiiwilliiig eail." The writer begs leave to differ with tliis statomeiit ;l he tliiiilsis that a depletioii of twei~tytwo beggars per year in tlie raiiks of tlie many lluiidreds that throilg the city streets is l-iardly iioticeable, still less a soliitioii of the proble~nof poverty iii Fuilcl-ial. Poverty in Funcha1.-Thc beggars roam t h e streets czt a11 lioiirs. The poverty existing among

' The

fnct that tlie Asylo containecl oae liundred niid Lliii,ty-one inrnates i11 tlie year 1883 ancl b ~ i orie t h~indredand tweizty iiimates in 1884 Liardly seems to s~istainthe inference drnwn by llic nutlior quoted,-lliat tho Asylo is absorbing tlio beggary of Funchnl. A h i r is lield amua117 i n tlie town for tlic benefit of the dostitute, tliere being p o rsgular c i v i ~ goritribiihiop8 or apportioii~n~nt .. of taxes: 68,

the lower classes of the towirs-pcople is dreaùful, arid some of the beggars are most revolting spectacles. But oue becoines accustomed to this iinattractivo featiire iiz street scenes. Beggary is a coinplaint iii a11 soiitliern con~itrics. Iii some district~ in Italy it is wosse aiid moro revoltiiig than it is aiiywhere iii Madeira. Music and Musical 1nstruments.-The i~ativesare passioilately foiid of miisic. The Machete.-Thcy have ali iiistrnment peculiar to their use and called tlie machdte, whíeh wheii well played prodiices very sweet strahs; iii appearance it resembles closely a small guitar, tliongh i t lias biit foiir strings, a11 of eatgut. The u p ~ o two r are tnned iii thirds, and the lower two iii foiirths. Wlzile the iiative melodies consist in a successioii of simple chords, the mo t difficult and classical rnii~iecai1 be agseeablg. rendered iipon tl-i'cnzuchae. The Guitarra.-The gzcitawa, ali iustrninent with twolve silver alid brass wires, ir 3. principally in accoinpanyiiig the madête, appearance it ia lilre the old Eiiglish gziitar. 61

Che Zanb of tbe Wine The Rebeca.-Tlie rebeca,l or violiii, is also a favourite iiistrrirnent with tlie natives. Ali orchestra eomposcd of the foregoiiig instrumeiits2 reiiders the iiative rnelodies iii a soft, dreainy toiie q ~ i i t eiii lreeping vith tlic siirroundiiigs,-the flower-perfumed aiid silii-lzldeil air, flooded v i t h the soiigs of tlic wild caiiai.ies3 that floclc iii coriiitless tliousailds overliead. The old English narne for violin was almost identical with the present Portuguese name. Example,'' Where the merry hclls ring rouiid And the jocunù rehecks sound." L' AZlegro.

Cbapter V., Scene~by the Wayside; Chapter XV., A Native Orchestra. Chapter XXV., The Csnary.

T H E ENGLISH CHURCH, VIEWED FROM T H E STREET.

orne of tlie iiative ceremonies on f&e-days are pec~iliarlyiiiterestiiig. The writer well rccollects tlie Cliristmas tliat hc plpeilt iil Madeira. It was a beantifiil day; t h e birds chirped merrily iii thc gardeiis md the b r i g l ~ t rays of thc si111 shonc brilliantly i11 throngl~the half-opeiied wiiidoms of tlie little Eiiglish cliiircli? The English Church.-A resident clergymm had charge of it, tlie oiily Bnglisli church oii t h e islaild. It is a very picturesyue-Ioolring bailding, s~~rroiiiidecl l>y a most lovcly garùeii, stmùiiig back f'roiii tlie road, a ilarrow pathway leading iip to it betweeii ttvo rows of trees aiid biishes, whose spreadiiig branclies, joined overhead, malre a ilatiual covered archway to the iusiii eutrance. Dinner at Baroness Conceiç5io1s.-Dinner was talrei1 a t Baroi~essConcei~ão's,~ a ~ i dthe afteriioori passed right pleasantly. Diiriag the eiitii-e day tl-ie Chapter XII., The Cliurch of England. Chapter XIV., Baron Conceipão, the Corn-Giver. 65

streets of Fuiiclial were coinpletely deserted. Tlie mystery of this was afterwards explaiiied by tlie fact that t l ~ eiiativc 110111ilatioi1 spend their Cllristmas by coiigscgatiiig iii oiie aiiother7s honses and catiilg i.oast pig.' Native Gelebration of Christmas.-For oiir childreii we often caiise to be coiistructcd a t tliis seasoli a srnall green feiicc eiiclosing some iniiiiatnre miiiter scene, iii tlie inidst of wllicli appears tlie figiire of the child's saiiit, Saiita Claiis. Iii &ladeira tlie pureiits have a sinal1 onclosiim iiiade, bnt place thereiii miiliatiire figiires of tlie Virgin IInry, tlic iicw-borii Christ, aiid tlie three wise ineii aiid the othcr worsliippers. These figni-es are arrai~gecliii tlie midst of a siimmer sceiie, relxeseiited by greeu iiioss aild plaiits. This exhibitioii is cnlled the Lnp.in7~a,aiid it is custoinary to lreep it oii vicw i~iltilaftcr NemYcar's-day, tllat the varioiis fiieilds of tlie filmily may cal1 to eiijoy aiid admire its artistic srraiigeineiit. Fireworks and Gannon.-Aii importailt part of tlie Cliristmas celcbratioii coi~sistsiii malciilg as 6

Chapter XVII., Pigs, aiid the Position they occupy i n the. Peasnnt's Rousehold.

mucli iioise as possible. From early dawn til1 late at aight tlle air v a s every momeiit rent by thc biliigiiig and boomiilg of caiiiioiis, fire-crackers, guiis, aiid bombs. Oiic fclt redly as thoag11 the islaiid were under a fuxillade. Iildeed, it seemed inore like a regular old-fasliioned Yaiikee Fonrth of Jiily celebratioii t l ~ a nali appropiiate obseivaiice of the blessed Christmas-day. New-Year's-Day.-Now, New-Year's-eve aiid New-Year's-day, ciii.iotisly eiiough, appear to be celebrated the ~vorldover iii almost iclenticai fashioii. Tliis is very iioticeable, I tliiiik, iii the di.I-Fereiit c o ~ i i t ~ i of e s Eiirope. Iii Switzerlaiid, espccially, New-Year's-day is celebrated with great éclat aad after the mannes iii whicli ~ v ecelebrate it hei-e iii America. J n s t so among tlie Madeirans: on New-Year's-eve tlie discliarge of milsketry and caimoli "welcoiniiig i11 the new year " is constant aiid tremendoiis, rciideririg sleep otit of tl-ie cluestion.' Ncw-Year7s-day is takea np with feasting; and m~immingiii the streets is also a sport largely participated in. It is fiirthermore a nnifersal cnstom to fly kites on tliat day. However, &te67

flyiiig is at a11 seasolis tlle predominating aad evel*-l>opiilaipastiinc of tlie islailders. Bull-FigMing.-Scveríll attempts have bem made fiom tiine to time to iilstitiite bnll-figl-itingl as a chief ainiiseinent in Madeira. Thus far, however, these efforts havc never met witli siiccess. Frequency of Legal Holidays,-As has beeil i'emarked elsewhere, religioiis ceremoiiies are of ficq~ieiltoccurrence, iild their observaiice enters largely iiito tlie routiiie life of tlie i s l a i l d e r s . ~ religioiis or patriotic fète-dçzy occurs about oilce every week tliroughont tlie calenclait year, aud every siich day of eitIieit cliaracter is declared to be a legal lioliday. O11 these occasions kite-flying is t l ~ principal e spoitt. May-Day.-The first of May, " May-day," is celebrated by processioils, bzllls, aild like gayeties. It is regarded in Madeira, as it is iii Aiistris aiid Englaild, a great time for merry-makiilg. Dnr-" ing tlie clay masqueraders march about the towa, haltiilig every now and tl-ien on street-comcis or Chapter IV., Dom Carlos I., the Present King. Chapter VII., Fenst of the Ass~imption;As in Biblicnl Dstys; Chapter XII., L n m and Beligioii; Chapter XIV., Religious Life ; BiblicaBCustoms. G8

f ê t e ~ ~ a vaiib e 'Reli ~f ouo Celebrntloito in ilic olienU sqnares, wlioi3e n group will í'ori~i a, ciscle aroiiild soinc f~1itnstic:~ll y clrcssed yc)i111g ii woinnil aiid join iii ilic M ~ c l ~ i r adttncc." The Madeiran Dan~e.-~I'hitl is n, ~vcird,iilic:aiibl~ l~cflorintliiccl~eculinrto tlic i~laiiders, I'I; i a sorna sesl)ccts seiniiids oiic of ali Ainoi~ic,z~i Iiidiaii wnidaiicc. Tlie stcp nsed is soi~icwliat;siinilur t o ihat cii~ployediii tlic 1:Tiglilaild fling," uiid ti low iilonot;oiioiis air i8 cliaiitcd, wliici i > vtIiricc1 ~ by ycll~saiicl pioi*ciiig screurns z~silio claiicci+a bccoizzc warinccl to tlicii. work, A Native Orchestra,-Xii tho cvcniiig tlio viaitoits fimornIhc c0nilti.y 01-gaiiiao their ii~rccs jiito :L siiiglc l~roccssioii. With e motlcy but vcr-y good baiid or orc1icsl;i~a' af; .t;licilr fioiit, liindo iip, oC giiitnr players, rnacliêtc players, bass-vi01 niid violiii players, aiid tin-cai1 baatcils, tlley mai~ch out of t h ~tow11 by torc1-i-liglit, inaizy oP t11~ miiininess keepiilg tiinc to tlic mizsic the while with the stilaiige step pcciiliar t o tlic dance." Annual Celebration of the Country Church,Evesy coiintry cliiirch holds its ai~iiualcc1cbr.atioli oii a, Sni~dtlycltiriiig thc siiinmor moiiths. Chaptor XIX., Mudc niid ~ u h c n 1iist;rilmonts. l 69

&he Pannb of the Wfne Withiii the cliiirch iiiasses are said, aiid tlle crowd of p"irticipniits iii thc cereinoi-iy, wlio havc coiile fioin iiear aiid fLr, tliroiigcd oiitside the chnrch, rescinble a gatheriiig of piciiickers more tl-ia~ia gronl) oí' worshippers. B a t those who are doiiig l~ciin-i-iceare quite apnrt fi-0111 tlie merry-malcers a i i ~ l1i:~rtalccrsof t11c fcast, for tlicy niay bc sceii nscciidiiig tlio haid sloiic stci~sof tlie cliiircli 011 tl-icir k n c c ~or creepiiig aloiig tlie paveinciit oii all-fours. Tliose wlio liave Becn grniited absolntio11 iiiaiiifc~ttlieii joy by aettiiig off fireworks,roclirets, craclcers, snd eveii ~ m a l lcaiiiion. At carly dawn sloiig thc approaclies t o the scene of tlie cclelir,ztioil pass throiigs of pensaiits playiiig oiinldicir ninchbtes, giiitars, aiid violiiis, and siiigiilg hymiis. Celebration. at Machico.-Thcrc is a Festa held ai-iiiiially ai; Macliico iii comiuemoratioii of tl-ie snp1)osediniracle rcldiiig to Il-ie returii of a voodeli, oross aiid iinagc that hacl becii ~ w e p t o sea fioin Macliico b y tlie grcat flood of 1803. Tbe loss, tl-ie discovery, aiid the inaiiiicr of tlle retiirii of tl-ie cross aiid iiliago iii qiiestioii coiistitiited tlie miraele whicli is fillly told of iii Cliapter VIII., iiiider tl-ie paragraph eiititled CapelZch g' Xosso 70

jfete4Dape anb IRelfgfoue Celebration~ de ~WiZayres. Tlie Festa is held during tlle tweiity-four hours fioin mid-day oii the Stli of October to mid-day oii the 9tlkof October, as iii tlie Romaii Catholic Church days are always coiiilted in this maimer. For iilstancc, tlie grcat Festa held at the Moiiiit Cliui.clil on tlie 15tli of Aiigust begiils oii tlic 14th of August at ilooii aiid cnds oii the ltitli at iiooii. Now tlie Festa a t Mtichico is held oii tlic aaiiiversary of the flood which toolc placc, oii the 9th of Octobcr of tlie yenr 1803. Many are the festivities eacli ycar, alid pilgriins joiirney fiom iiear and far to joiii iii theiii. The cereiiioilies nsually coilcliide witli 5~ processioii by niooi11 ight, and theii rude iinages aiid figures are boriie witli great solemnity about t h e streets of Macliico. IVhen the Bishop hoiionrs the Festa with 11% ~resence,as he oftcn does, he wears a magaifia e a t attire o£ scarlet robes aiid fine lace. After this Festa at Machico pilgrims are met iii a11 directioiis retiiri~inghomeward, laden witli sacred calces aiid quaiiit littlc pastry imagcs of Nossa Selihora de Machicos. Tlie bearers dre takiiig B812720'1'

Cliapter VII., Feast of tlie Assumption. 71

&be Xanb of tbe

miite

these soiivciiirs of the festival to those at home wlio were iiilable to attend. Religious Processions in Funcha1.-The religioiis processioiis iii Fuiichal are ai1 iiistitution. Tlie statues of the varioiis saiats are carried iii line along the streets 0x1 the shoulders of uiiifornied bearers, aiid tlie rni1itai.y occiipy a proiniileiit place i11 the rai~hs. The Black Saint.-The statiies of the twelve apostles are carried in liiie, aiid oiie of the statues, whicli is black, is bouiid to attract .the particular scriitiiiy of the straiigei'. This is Santo Aritonio de Noto, vliose gravei1 image is doiibtless preserved from tliat period wheil tliere was a laige negro pop~~latioii, in tlie breasts of wliom it was deemed iniportaiit to keep alive the spirit of devotioii b y paradiilg before thcni a holy persoii of tlicir owii coloiir, oiie who coiild sympathize vitli thein aiid with whom they woiild feel iio embar-, rassmeiit iii tlieir coilfessioil. 011 parade-day tlie fioiits of tlie hoiises are iiivariably bcdecked with traiis~areiiciesaild bright-colonred flowers. Procissão dos Passos.-One of the most iiotable processioas is the Procissfio dos Passos, which occriis oii thc foiirth Siziiday in Lciit. Altars are 72

i ~i,liilj t tiliic

bizilt iii tlic strcota aiid sinal1 cliildrcii are garbed ns aiigcls with wiiigs oE tinscl. Ash-Wsdnesday's Parade.-Tho fiist proccssioii OS tlic yenr is oii A~1z-Wcdiiesday. The Breaking of the Crown.-A ceitciiioiiy,pcrlity)~rnoi-o odtl .tlit~iialzy liitliorlo dcscribed, toolc 1)l:~ccwliilc tlio wiailcr wt~s:~moiig.tlic islaiiclcis i11 2110 wiiilc?~o f 1888-80. T l h corcinoiiy is' bliowii zltj " tlic Ili~cillriiigof tlio Crowii." Ii; talcc~1)lnco eix wcc!ka sRcr tlic deaí;li o£ a Poi*tugizoi+c?kiiig, iii a11 f i e vniiozza lalids ai~clprovinccs ovcr whicli tlio moiiai*ch rnled duriiig his lifctiinc. !1:1~! ol(1 Kiiig OS Poitiigal, Dom Lzziz P.,l died Octobcr 9, 1880, aiicl, nccordiag to aiicieiit traditioii arid i;hc cnstom o£ tl-ie lriilgdoin, the Madciraiis, lilrt: sll trizc Portiigizeac, Sollowed tlie cxain ple oE tl~ciz* inotlieib-coiiiiti.y)apeople. The Six Weeks' IKourning,-Heiico for aix wcelrrs arter tlio dcatli. oí' the kiiig tlie islaiid sppearcd aliro~~dccl iii rnoilriiiiig. Blaclc flags waved from tlic govoramclit buildiiigs, $110 womeii dressed iii gaibba aí' dcel~estmoiiriiiiig, aad meiiy oE the meu Clinptor IV., Reigti of Dom Luiz I. 73

Che Zattb of the U í n e wore baiids of black clotl-i aroiiiid tlieir arms, hats, o i sombreros. At tlie eiid of tlie six weelcs occurred tlie celcbratioii beforc meiitioiied, líi~owiias '' tlic Brealcing of tlie Cisowil." This p ~ i tali eiid to tlie inotiriiiilg for tlie late sovereigii, and, the latter haviiig l~asscdiiito oblivion, tlie iiew kiiig was with rejoiciilg welcomed to tlie tlirorie. A Holiday Crowd.-What ali excelleiit opport u ~ i i t ytlic day of that great ccrcinoiiy ai'fordcd to sec the pcoplc ! The islaiiders fiom far aaild near fioclred to Fiiilclial. Dress of the Countrywomen.-Arnong tllein wcie coiiiit;rywomcil, with Ilicir little gold-cmbroidered; da1.k-bliie, scalloped-edgcd capes, fasteiled over tlieir riglit sliouldcrs aiid ext;ending slaatiiigly across t11e iipper part of tlieir velvct bodices (the Istter fittiiig closely ovor loose wliitc blozises, c u t low at tlle iicclc aiid sliort iii tlie sleevcs) aild passiiig' gracefully iiiider tlieir left arms, thcre beiilg scciired by goldcii clasps. Tliey a11 wore tlle brigllt parti-colo~zredskirts, theii cliaracteiistic garb. Tlie woineil Iseloilgiilg to tlie poorer classes from tlie coiiiitry wore large aiid variotis-coloured 74

A

RICH YOUNG COUNTRV-LASS

attii-e. The wealtliici. cotii~i;i*y lasscs wcro distingnisl-ic~d fio111 tl.ieiilpoorc~lriilswoilzr!ií by tlic 1itl;lc p~alicd caps, so peculiar t o tl-io island, t ~ u dwhioli thcy worc oii to11 of tlieir licads ili placa oE tliu coinmoncr lrcicliicfs. Attire of Ladierj of the Aristocracy,-S'lic lndics of Fuiiclial were dressed ia bluckLfitou hcnd to foot, which, by tlic wny, is; coiisidcrcd Sul1 dl*csv') by tlrc Fiinchnlesc, without reforoiico .to tbc mouriliilg attire for tlic dead kii-ig, . Iii tlic writer's cizdeavoiir on thut evciit.f~~l day to sec tlic pi~ocessioiifroiii a goocl yoiat ofvailtagc, hc llad a little adveilturo which irerc! rccouiltcd may ~ r o v OE e paasiiig ii~tcrcst. Ali ncqiiaiiitalice, Seiilior Jose de Rosa by name, iiifoi*wccl him that tlie CaCl~cdral~ woiild be tlrc best-iii &ct, tlle oizly-placc Troin wliich t o view tlic day's proceediiigs satislaotoiiily. A fiiciid, a young Now Zcnlaiidor iit~inc?dFiiik, nrishcd to sce tlic cerciz-ioiiicu. Coilaeqncntly Fiiilc Clinptcr XIV., Laclies' DP~SS. a Clinptei IV,, Erectioii of tlio Cutliedr~~l; Bombardrnelit of tbe Ctitliedral, 77

Ube Xanb of tbe Wfne a1icl tlie writer, unùer the guidance of Seiihor de Rosa, started ont together. The Interior of the Cathedra1.-Upoii ieaclriing the Catlriedral, they pusl~edtlieir way thiougli a tliroiig of pe,ople blocking tlie ciitraiice anù arrived a t a small side door, whicli de Rosa opeiied. T'Vheil they had steliped iiiside, tlie door closed beliiirid thein with a spriiig, aild they ioiiiid thcinselves staadiiig at tlie to11 of a loiig, ilzlrrow fligl-it of steps. Tlie sole illuiniiiatioii wczs fioin a liglited caildlc set iilto a crevice iil tlie wall near them. The Underground Passage,-" Come wiz mc, come wiz me!" said tlie bortugiicse, excitedly, as tlley desceiided tlie stairs. "Zis is ali ~iiidergroiliid ~azzage. E t is vere ze inonks ancl clergyinaiis liave zeir sccret meets, aild it briilgs 11s out iii ze iniddle of zc Cathedral aftcr ve go iip ailozei steps." Tliey Iiad iiow reachcd the foot of the staircase, aiid pioceeiled along a, narrow, diilgy, 1111dergi-oiiad passage-way, o11 eitller side o i which stood a row of doors, some slriiit, soine half-opeii, aild a11 appeariag to lead iiito rooms, diingeoiis, or l~lacesoí' fiecreoy. 78

$ête4Dap$ anb IReIfgfotia Ctelebratton~ A Throne-Room.-Tl~rougli

half-ol~eiidoor tllcy glanced ia, aiid ssw a spacions ap,zrt;mciit, brilliantly illiiiniiinted aiid gorgeoiisly fi~rnislied. Iii the middle of tlie room stood a tliroiic, oii wliich sat s moiilc clotlied iil a flowiiig scai.lct robe. Around liis waist was a goldea girdlc aiid iii his riglit Iiaiid he held a littlc ~ilvei.scep1;i.c. Aboiit hiin oii tlie floor lriielt mczliy moi~lcssiid psiests eagaged in prayer. The iatriiders hastened noiselesaly on, aild a moment later came t o tlie foot oE ailol;hcr ataircase. U1) tliis de Rosa l~liiiigeclwitlioiit a word, aild tliey followed him. No light;, 1101; evcii a taper, revealed tlic way liere, so that tliey lind to grope aloiig iii utter darlciiess. Tlie stcps wero ~lippery,criinibliiig, aiid far betwccii. Forcing an Entrame.-Ai; tlie top of tlicso stniss tliey arrived bcfore a lieavy onlren door, wliich had a huge isoii haiidle. De Rosa grippcd tliis aiia witli d l liis strciigtli gave it a tiirii. Witlz a loud click tlic dooi. swiil~g011011. 80 siiddeii aiicl iii~expectedwaa this tnoveineiit to thoso iinpreparcd that; s beadlc wlio wtls leaiiing magiiificently agaiiist tlie othci. side of tlic door was seiit sprawliiig to tlie íioor, $1.-0

79

0110

Gbe %anb of tbe Wine Soiuethiiig serioiis might liave icsiilted tlieii arid tliere liad liot de Rosa, iiistaiitly perceiviiig the catastroplie, tnriied 011 Pinli; aiid the writer, who stood bewildered, aiid giveii them both a forceful sliove which seiit tlieni spiiiiiiiig iii with tlie tide o£ pcople. Tlic wiry Portuguese qiiicldy iòllowed tlicm, whilc tlic ovcrturiied bcadlc arosc aiid looked abont iii blanlc ariiazernelit aad fiiry on the L'sea of iiptiiriiecl faces." lfakiiig tlieir way witli tlie greatcst diEciilty tliroiigli the throiigiiig crowd, tliey a t last arrived, very miicli oiit o£ breatli, beforc a low iron gate, oii tlie othei side of wliicli stoocl a moiik. D e Rosa uiadc tt low obeisaiice to the holy fatlier aiid addressed him iii Portiiguesc. Where the Aristocracy viewed the Ceremony.-The gate was thereupon opeacd aiid they stepped iiisidc. They were tlieii preseiited to tlie inoiik, vvho tiirizcd aiid Icd tlieiil up a wi~ldiiigstaircase. A t tlie top tlicy stcpped iiito ali opcii pllery, where the ai~istocsacyOSFuiiclial ~ e e m c dto liave takeii up head-qiiarters. Riclil y-dressed Indies bedecked witli costly jewelsl nrid nieii iii gay attire occi~pied loilg rows of velvet-ciisliioiied (Ihapter XIV., Wearing of Jewellery.

80

I N T E H L I R <>i T H E C 4 T H E D R A 1

scats. Tlie threc visitors still followed the holy fatlier, aiid, wallriiig doiig tlie cciitre ais10 to wliere severa1 seats slill remaiiicd vacailt, they were usliered iiito thcm. Their conrteoiis giiidc tlieil left tliem. The Monument t o tlie Dead 8overeign.-Iii Ihe ceiitro of"tlie Cathedral a great iiioiiizincilt had bee1.i crected, exteildiilg from tlie groiiiid Roor alrnosi; to tlie roof. Its ~ i d e sW ~ I ' Cformed oE Ilie inost exquisite tapestry, which liniig fkom the to13 lilro great cizrtaiiis, aiid was fistciicd at tlie bottom, giviiig tlie oiitward aspcct oí' fonr solid walls. Biicircling tlio inoiiiiment was a series of thrcc galleries oi balconies, oiie abovc tlie other, iii the Chiiiese pagoda style, tlic largest at tlie base and the smallest a t Lhe top. Thcse gallerics were eiicoinl2assed By biiriiished brass railiiigs, draped witli crape. Foiii*doors olieiied oiito encIi gallery. 011 thc f i r ~ or t lowcr gallei'y six soldiers, attired iii coal-blaclr uniforms, stood lilre statiies. They held tl-ieir giiiis at rcst, aild their lieads were bared. Oii tlie secoiid, two small acolytes, dressed iil long, flowiilg, red cassoclrs and short white surplices, wallred about, atteiiding to tlie 83

Ube Zaitb of tbe Wfne countless tapers ~vhichb~irnedancl fliclrered i11 brass candlesticks. Tlie third galleiy was vacailt, and 011 the very summit of tlie structure rested a coffiii ~vitha crowii 011 its top. Erery Gindow in tbe Catliedrill was darlceiied by a large black clotli spiead over it.l The oiily liglit proceeded from tlle rnyriads of lamps and caildles wl~icli, as on the moiliimeiit, buriled brightly in every direction. The Music in the Cathedra1.-Peals of rnasic ever siid anoii rang ont from a huiidrecl voices, zlccoml~aniedby ali organ and a i~i11orchestra. Tlie writer and his coinpanions semained for a loiig time intercsted spectntors of a11 that passed. At last they too8 their departiire, this time by a conveaieilt side door. The Procession in Honour of the Dead and Living Kings.-Outside tho Cathedra12tliey fouiid a good place from whicll to view the procession. Sooii strains of martial music were heard approacliii~g, and a large body of gendarmes went by a t doubleThese cloths mere to be dropped fiom the windowa at the blast of the cannon without, announcing that the oromn had been broken. Chapter V., The Cathedral Externally. 84

qnick,time, dispersing tlie crowd to either side of tlie street. The Mourners.-Directl y followiag vere four gorgeously arrayerl officials, mouiited on fiery Arabiaii steeds. Tlien caine tlie inoi-irners, attired i11 short, loosc, wliite gowils, tight-fitting kiiickerboclcers, aiid loilg, black silk stoclciilgs. 0 1 1 tllcir heads tlley wore iinmeiise hats encircled by crapc baiids, wliich were tied at the back iilto great bows ; tlie latter looked like the wings of gigailtic butterfiies. After the nionrners carne tlie delegates of F~-iiichal,marching two by two iii loi~g,dolefi~l proccssioii. They wore black saits, swallowtailecl coats, aiid blsck silk hats. Next passed the firemeii's band, playiiig a dirge. The Mi1itary.-A break iii tlie raiilrs was filled by l;liree moi-iiited officers, wlio carne galloping aloi~g,followecl by a body of soldiers three huiidred strong. ~ h eCrown-Bearer.-After ' these had goiic by a solitary maii approaclied, walkiilg very slowly. He was eiivelopecl fiom liead to foot in black, aiid bore before him a ama11 velvet ciishioii, iq~oii wliich rested a crowii. As lie passed, every man 86

I b e Xanb of tbe u(CLine ia tlie crowds aloiig tlie street doffed liis liar;, while tlie womeii bowed low iii deep revereiice. The Pall-Bearers.-Tliey remainecl tliiis while a body of men clotlied iii black sobes niarcl~ed by; biit wheii, iii tlie midst of tlie latter, four pall-bcnrers appearccl snpportiilg a black coffiii, a11 ihe imineiisc tliroiig of oiilooliers-the nien, woiileii, ailcl cliildreli alilcc-fel1 upoii tlleir kiiees ai~d,biiryiiig their faces, niiittered a short prayer. The bells iii tlie great Catliedral tower raiig ont soleiniily. The Prostrate Crowd.-Tlie eii1;ire street preseiited oiie inass of pi.ostrate foi3ms uiitil tlie arrival of s secoiid baiid playing a disinal air ; tlle crowds theii arose to tlieir feet agaiil. IVheii tlie baiid l-iad goae by, ali iinineilse mail, witli a g o d - o i d belt ciicircliilg liis eiiorrnoiis ~vaist, cainc aloiig. Upoii thc bclt was priiited, iii large gilt Ictters, " Delegaqão para ~ i c l i a l . I-Ic bore iii his liai~da loiig sword. Aftci*biiil followed a s p a d of greiiadiers. Tliis wns the ciid of tho processioii, aiid as tlie lnst of tlie reay gnard weiit iip tlie street t11e writer snd his p,zrty joiiled i11 the crowd aiid followed tliem. 86

The Platform Ceremony.-Arrived at the middle of the plaza, tlie lsrocessioi~halted. Tlie soldiers drew np iii a long liiie aiid the grenadiers moiiilted guard aboiit a raised platform whicli liad pseviously been erected. Tlie maii with the large vaist ascended tlie platfosm and made a %liort speech. After this he desceaded, aild a mourner, accoinpaiiied by the mal1 iii black who bore the velvet ciishioii, moniited tlie platform. s The Orown is Broken.-Tlie moiiriler tlieii took tlle csowii fioin where it lay npoii ihe cushion, liftéd it higli above his head, aiid held it therc wl~ilelie iniittered soinetliiiig inaudibly. Tl-ien oii a suddeii he iittered a wild cry, aiid turiiing Iie hnsled tlie crowil to the grouild below, where it brolíe into h u i ~ d ~ c of d s fragmeiits. Cannon Blasts the Sorrow.-Iii ai1 iiistaiit a caiz11011, close by, belched forlli a thiliideriiig report, aiid for a moment afterwnrds tlie mised platform waa coml~letely eiiveloped iii srnolre. At tliis jtiizctiirc tlie two baiids, iii iinison, struclr 1113 a lively air; as tlie seport; of tlic great gnn died away, answeriiig shots were lieard from near ailrl far. Tlie processioii tlleii reorgaiiized, aiid, the bailcls 87

Cbe Ianb of tbe P;QZfne cl-iai-igiiigtlieir tuiie froin tlie joyous straiii to the dismal d i q e agaili, tl-ie processioii moved alowly away to perform a lilce ceremoiiy iil another quarter of the towii. Three Crowns must be broken.-The crowabreakiiig, it secmed, liad to be thrice enacted before the nionriiiiig teillniiiated. The writer aiid his accpaiiitaiices watched tlie processioii til1 out of sight, and tlieii, hiriiig a carro, took a short drive iiito the couatry. Sorrow turned to Joy.-Oii tlieir retiirii to the town, aboiit tlirec o'clock, tlie three crowiis llad evidently beeii. brolren, for everybody seemcd in l ~ i g hspirits. Fellows tlirnmmiilg on giiitars were going abont iii large baiids, siiigiiig such soiigs ai3 "God save tlie Queeii," or, iii tliis cnse, " tlle Kiiig," witli tlie Portiigiiese versioil. 0 1 1 tlieir way 1113 the rnain street the writer's party met aiid passed the eiitire processioii oiice agaiii. I t iiow liad a very festive appearancc. The bailds played gayly, tlie moiiriiers talked aiid langlied togethcr, the meii ia black robes were smolring cigarettes, tlie officers also were sinokiag, the Funclial delegates were cracking jokes, aiid il-ie " tiirliont " lookcd very diffei*eiit 88

from that which had beeil seen iil the moining. 44Long live the King ! "-" The king is dead ; long live the king !" This was no loi~gerthe cry. The dead king was iiow forgotten, for "the Brenkiiig of the Crowii " had bcen accornplished. " Loilg live the kiag !" ciied all.

CHAPTER XVI G0MME)RGE A N D MONEY Ol? M A D E I R A

efe, the eitanbíirb

Coilt,--Eiiglish moiiey, which is curreiit iii Madeira, is more l~leiltifiilthaii tlie coiii of the coiintry. The staiidard govcriimeiit coiii is prodigious, beiiig tlie ~ eori reis, wliicli, b y tlie way, is iiever iised iii tlie siilgular iliiniber. The smallest coiii in circiilatioii is tlle three-reis piece, that almost iiecessitates thc aid of a microscope to discover iii oiie's poclret-boolr. Ten reis are aboiit ccynal iii value to oile cciit iii Ainericaii moiicy aiid tweiity reis to a l~eiinyiii Eiiglisli ciirreacy ; yet there is i10 liiglier deaomiiiatioii circiilated by tlie Portiig~iese goveriimeiit iii Madcira tliaii t l ~ ereis. , Oharges in Reis seem Exorbitant.-The iilvalid is cautiolied to coiisider carefully tlic foregoiiig stateineiit before aslring for liis Grst hotel bill, as maiiy iiistaiices are recorded iii which sick persoiis, aiid especially those snfferiiig froin lieart troiibles or wealc iierves, Iinrl violei~tattacks of 90

Commerce anb monep tl1cii. respectivo maladies ou tlie receipt of their f i r ~ bills. t TOa hale aiid hcarty iiidivid~ialuilfamiliar with the couiit~*y~s ciirreiicy a &arge of tweiity tlioiisaiid reis for one weelc's board aiid lodging appears ratlier exorbitaiit, while tlie Ainericaii aiid Ei~glislicqnivalents-tweiity dollars, fo~ir110ii1ids-seem more reasoiiable. After all, there is a differeace iii the way iii wliicli a tliiag is expressed. A Bestaurant Adventure.-Tlic ~vriterliimself, a healthy specimen, liad his iiervons system iiearly sllattercd diiriiig liis first week7s resideiice i11 Madeira by tlie rel)'eated sliocks eaiised him by t11c receipt of bills cliarged iii tlie oile Madeirali dcnomii~ation. The lio~rifiedsiirprise wliicll he cxpcricnccd wheil, after a modest repast at ali appareiitly respectable ilestaiiraiit, he was prescnted witli a bill .for on,e tliouswzcl ~ e i sis still fresh in liis inemory. It was tlle Grst meal partakeii of by liiin o11 tlie day of liis arrival iii Madeira. Tlie wiziter wlio teiidered tlie bill smiled, while the writer made swift aiid sileiit calciilatioiis as t o his size aiid brawii aiid the chaiices he himself migllt lmve iii a persoilal eiicoi~literor ali ntteinpt i;o escapo, I-Iasty ociilar measnrement showed 91

"e Zilnnb oP tbe IXUine 4P

that the door was five paces distaiit. Theii the writer betlioiight hirn of a guide-boolc which lie had in his poclcet. H e drew it forth aiid coilsiilted a table of Madeiran ciirrency. Wheil lie fo~iiidthat the amount of the charge against hirn equalled only about a dollar (four shillings), the sense of relief that he felt well-iligh overcanie him, and he paid liis bill and walked forth iilto the suiiny street inwardly rejoicing that lie was atill a free man. Weighty Ooinage and Bulky Bank-Notes.-It was formerly burdensome to carry mucli moiley alsont oi1e7sperson in ilative ciirreiicy, on accoiiilt of its iiiconveiiieiit bulk aiid weight. B ~ i tiiow banlcnotes of varioiis deiiomiilatioiis dowii t o a value equivaleiit to aboiit foar ceilts (twopeilce) are i11 general circiilatioil, ao that, wliile the ~ itiat tion has beeii improved so far as weight is coiicemed, banlc-notes aggregating oile dollar (fo" ihillings) cai1 iil themselves make a biilky roll. A well-meaiiing pliysiciaii lias been kiiown to caiise a relalise iii liis patieilt's coinplaiiit b y preseiitiag his first bill itemized at two thoiisaiid reis per coizsiiltatioii. 92

Iiivalids shoiild liave with tllem nioiiey ready for " tips " at a11 times. The Invalid's Lump,-The writer iecollects the alaim wliicli he felt oii tlie occasion of a J.neetillg with an accpaiiitance who was a consumptive. A liin~pappeared over his left l~iiigaiid bulged oiit liis coat ; aiid tl-ie writei., fearing some snddeii, ilew developrneiit in the compIaint of his acquaiiitaiice, nervously alliided to the abnoimal growth aiid proposed a rest while he silmmoned a doctor. To liis iilcreased alarrn, the iiivalid there~ipoilbiirst iiito a choky langh, saying, "1'11 show you wl~atit is," and pluiiged his hand beaeatli his coat aud dislocated tlie liimp. The wiiter paled at tliis sight of what appeared to be self-iiiflicted torture, and the stoiy of the \voodeu=. liinbcd inaii who took off one of his arms and Both legs at ljleasnic Aasl~ed~acioss his mind as the coilsumptive drew fortl-i the lump. It proved to Be a billky rol1 of baiilc-notes amountiag to aboiit oiie dollar iii vdiie. The Post-Office : Stamp-Collecting,-The craze for collecting postage-stamps is a very rnarked chaacteristic of the post-office officials. To siich a;ri extellt do they carry their philatelic mania 93

Cbe (aattb of the "Qi[S2íite that letters rarely reacli those to whom they are addressed with tlie stamps still iii place. Thc stainy is almost invariably removed, aiid iii tlie l~rocessof removal tlie letter as well as tlic eiivelope lias sometimes bcen torn. There seems to be no way to obtain redress for this tampering witli oiie7scorrespondente, as cvery official frorn tlie lowest to the higllest secins to be imbiied witli tlic collectiiig craze. IVlieii oiie goes to tlie post-office to buy stamps, the ciistomary questioii is, " Caiicelled or uiicaii~ e l l e d ? ' ~This qiiery soinewliat puzzled tlie writer o11 liis iirst experieiice at a local post-office, tlie more so as he did iiot quitc iiiiderstaild tlie qiiestioii, pnt to liini i11 very bad Eiiglisli as it was. But, iil soine way uiilcnowii to liiiliself, he coiiveycd tlie idea t o the official that lie wished caiicelled stamps, aiid tlie great clisplay of thcsc fioin cvery couiitry iii the world, which was immediatelhspread before liim for a choice, was quitc bewilcleriiig. " Are aiiy of tliese good to stamp letters witli liere 'r'" he asked. The official replied i11 the negative, with an expression of great perplcxity, whicli soon chaiiged to a look of pity, Tlic writer redized tliat he was beiilg taken for ali 94

Ctomiizerce anb ni3onep jmbecile. Bnt at last nlatters were satisfactorily cxplained, md the propcr stamps were prociued. I t may be said iii this coimectioii that tlie stainps, like tlie moiiey, desceiid into sucli low deaoqinatioiis tliat they are generally useless iiiiless iised in coiisiderablc iiiiinbers. For iiistaiice, the two-reis stainp (value, oiie-fiftli of a cerit) will rarely carry a bit of wail farthei thaii the post-box into which it is dropped. The Main Post-Office,-The maiii post-officc iii Fiiiichal is at No. 61 Riia das Mnr~as. Bates at which Mail oan be sent.-Tlie motl-iercoiiiltry beiiig a mexnbei of tlie Iiiternational Pootal Ùiiion, rnail o,aii be sent from Iladeira to coaiitries tliat are in the ~iiiioiiat thc followiiig rates, prepaid iii stamps.

. . . . . . 10 reis for each 50 grammas (=a+ ounces3. Coins . . . . . . . cannot be sent by mail. Commercial papers . . 50 reis up to 250 grammas, and

Boolrs

Gold jewellery .Lettersl

. .

. . . . . . . .

10 reis for each aclditional 50 grammas. cannot be sent by mnil. 50 reis for each 1 5 grammas (=& ounce).

Letters to any place in Madeira or to Portugal or tlie &ciíores can be sent for twenty-five reis per-fifteen grammm. 96

Cbe Eanb of the Wfne Money-orders

. .

. . not issiied to or in Madeira (drafts should be used).'

Newspapers Patterns

. . . . . 10 reis for each 50 grammas.

. . . .

,

. 20 reis for 100 grammas and 10 reis for each additional 50 grammns. 20 reis per card. 50 reis per letter. . cannot be sent by mail.

. . . . . . . . . . .

Postal-cardsa Registered letters Silver jewelleiy

Te1egraph.-Fuizchal is telegraphically connected with P o r t o Moiliz, Ponta do Sol, Poiita do Pargo, Machico, Saiitzl Cruz, and the lightl-ioiise at Poilit St. Lorei~zo.~Messamgescai1 be sciit betweeil aiiy of the above towiis at tlie rate of sixty reis for the first word and teii reis for each additional word. Over tlie wiie which keeps tlle light-liouse in commuilicatioil with the autliorities of the port Messrs. Blandy Brothers & Co., Rua da Alfandega, are responsible bankers. They are correspondents of J. P. Morgan & Co., New Y o r k ; J. S. Morgan & Co., London; and Drexel & Co., Philadelphia. A letter from Blandy Brothers $ Co. to the writei is given later in this chapter, under the caption Currency Denominations and Approximate Equivalenta. Postal-cards to points in Madeira or to Portugal or the Azores can be sent for ten reis each. Chapter VIII., T h e Light-House. 98

of Fuiiclial is traiismitted t1ie ricws of appi*oacliiilg steamers. Cable Communication.-111 tlie yettr 1874 tbc firat cable was laid to Macieira ; this was a rnoiiizmental iindert;alciiig, for tbc liiics wcre laid aiinulta,iieously fio111 Brazil, from Lisboil, ancl from tho Cape de Vcrde Islaiids to Fuiichal. Tliia was: tlie wor11:ol' tlie Brazilinii Snbmniiiic Telcgra]?h Coinpaiiy, nii orgaiiizatioil of Britisli capitalista, aild servcd to placc Madeira iii -telcgrepliic comm~iiiicatioiiwitli tlie Americali and Xriropeaii coiitiilciifis. As will be readily nnderstood, tliis: was a inomclitoiis ovc~ltin t11o histoiay of Mnc1oii.a.l Iii tlie early eiglitios ii, secoizd liiie WLZHlaid betweeii Lisboii aiid Fniiclial; aiicl i11 Ma~cli,1884, the liiio flloin St. Viricciik, of Llic Capo V'crdcs, to Fiiiicht~lwas dnplicated. A aablc lia^ rccoiitly bccii loid to tl-ic Azores. Tlic liiic fi*oi~J3i*aeil coiiiiocts a t 13ci*iiaiz-ibi~co. OfficeEi of the Local and Submarino Felegraph Gompanies.-Tllc ofilllces Trem wliioli a11 iizcswagcs aro scnt are ait~zatccliii tlia Rua, das hIiirr:,as,at No. 3, opl~ositctlie post-oficc. Cliaptor IV., Tlia Fir~it;Ocanii Cabla. 11,-6

01

Cbe Zanb of tbe Wíne Cabling Charges to Different Countries.-Tha charges pei3word for inessages sent by cable mie as follows : Austria-Ilungary . Belgium . . . . Denmark . . . France . . . . Germany . . . Great Britain . . Holland . . . . Italy . . . . . Normay . . . . Portugal . . . . Bussia . . . . Spain . . . . . Smeden . . . . Smitzerland . . .

Reis.

. . . . . . . . 378 . . . . . . . . 333

. . . . . . . . 363

. . . . . . . . . 318 . . . . . . . . 363 . . . . . . . .

348 348 . 363 . 385 . 228 . 438 . 273 . 400 . 333

. . . . . . . .

. . . . . .

. . . . . .

. . . . . .

. . . . . .

. . . . . .

. . . . . .

. . . . . .

. . . . . . .

A word exceediiig ten letters in leiigth is counted as two moids. Three ii.~imeralsq u a l a mord. Thc ilaine aiid address are cliarged for at the mord rate. Portugal's Income from Madeira.-Madciis yields ai1 iiicorne of nt least oile million dollars aililnally to the treasnry of tlie liome govcriiineiit a t Lisboii. Letter from Blandy Brothers & ao.-Jnst preuious to sending this iiew editiou t o piesx, Lhe 98

Coinmecce anb fDonep aiitllor reeeived a coirimiiiiication from Messrs. Blaildy Brotl-ier~Jb Co., the leading bniilring firm of Madeira, iil referencc to tl-ie latest oficial rates of excllal~ge. Gurrency Denominations and Approximate Equiva1ents.-The letter, beiiig authoritative, is herewith quoted iil f~ill,as it gives a clear aild complete statemeilt of the deiioini~icztioiis of Madeiran eiirreilcy, with tlleir Ainerican aiid Eiiglish eqiiivalents. B L ~ N BROTIIERB ~Y Sd CO., MADEIRA,GRAXDCANARY,LONDON, AND Rarnrs. ~ T E A ~ l S I ~ AQPNT~-ABENTs Il' FOI< LLOYDS,AT ~~ADEIRA AND LAS PALNAB.WINE NERCHANTB. LONDON OPWCES,1G &IARIC LANE, E. C.

A. J. DEXXELBIDDLE, ESQ.,PRILADELFHIA : DEARSIR,-Your fnvour of the 20th ult. duly received, and we have pleasure in giving you tlie following infor~nation. Tho p a r value of the sovereigu. is Es. 4500 (four thousand five liundred reis). Tlie premium ou golcl nt the present time is about 50 per cent., and tlie sovereign is quoted nt 6600 or thereabouts ; but, as the exchange varies froin day to dny, it is impossible to draw iip a table of eqiiivalent valiies such as you suggest. A dollnr (1000 reis) =3s., more or Zess, nt present valuo. A bit (100 reis) = 3 3 . a t present value. Gold Goilauge.-The Eliglisli sovereign is ocirrent, biit Portuguese gold is seldom or never seen. 90

Cbe Znttb of tbe Wiite SiZrer C'oinctIle.-Half-dollar = 500 reis ; 2-bit piece =200 reis ; 1 bit = 100 reis. C'oppet- Coiltrtye.-Penny = 20 reis ; lialf-penny =10 reis. Poi.tug~ieseBud-Notes (from Xl downwards) : 5000, 2500, 1000, 500,100. TVe shall be pleased to furnish yoii with further information, if required. W e are, Dear Sir, Yours truly, BLANDY BROTHERB 13CO., C. W. BLANDY.

Scarcity of Gold and Silver and Over-Supply of Bank-Notes.-She wntcl. has fòiiiid that not oilly gold. biit silvei. is gettiiig scarce iii Madeira, and

iiiatioiis dowii to tlie vnl~ieof four cents (two l m c e ) are iii geiieiaal circnlutioii. Laek of Coinage in the Provinces; Investments in 3ewellery.-The towiis-peoyle of every class use

tlie culsiseiicy,while, ou tlie other halid, the country-peoplc iiivest tlieir saviilgs iii jewellery. TIiey rarely bny precious stoiies,l biit the jewellers of F~inchnldo a large trade witl-i tlieiii iii While precious stones are not purchased by the countryfolk, the ladies of the aristocracy iii Funchal buy them fre- . quently, Old-fashioned topaz jewellery from Brazil is the present fashion. See Chapter XIV., Ladies' Dress. 100

Cominerce anb monep gold oriiameiits. Skilled labour is cheap aiid of a liigli degree of excelleilce. Ear-sings, pendants in the form of crosses aiid liiiotted bows, miniatiire gaitars, machêtes, aild biilloclc-carts arranged as brooches, aro made iii gold eighteeii camts fiiie. E'aIse jewelleiy is rarely dealt iii aiid ilevcr worii by the ilatives. Jewellers are the Peasants' Bankers.-The peasailt never places liis inoiiey iii a bailk, as tlie offer of iiiteiest does iiot a p ~ e a lt o liiin. He distriists tlie savings-fund iiistitiition tl-iat offers him three pela cent. for the use of his hard-eamed coiii. " Me liaiidy ma tbonsaad reis 'liiild ze bars ohf s e bigga baiika, ali' ze baaka liailcly me backa thirty reis ; iiota mootch 1" a iiative oilce said to the writer li1 explaiiatioii of liis aversion to the ballkiilg systern. 13eiice tlie jeweller is the bai~kerof tlie pcasailtry. Gold Linked Chains as Investments and as Currency.-A favourite iiivestment is iil tiny-liiiked gold cliaiiis, which tlie womeil wear as bracelets aiid neclclaces aiid the meii carry as arrnlets or wrqped aboiit tlie pealcs oF their caps. Gold must be Eighteen Carats fine.-Wheii wishing to settle ali accoiiiit, tlie reqziired aumber of 101

I b e Zanb of tbe Ulltne liiiks are. brokeii or twisted from a chaiii, for the gold whereof tlie chaiiis are made is fiiie, pure, and pliable. Eeading Jewellers and Watchmakers.-The leadiug jewellers of Fiinchal are Sabino ~ # á ode Freitas; 42 Rua de João Tavira ; J. R. Rebello, 46 Riia de Joáo Tavira; Mailoel M. Gomez, 6 Riia do Aljnbe ; João Claudisiio l-Lodiigriez, 4 Terreiro do Pico ; João da Rosa Silva, 9 Rua do ~Yljube;Vicente Julio de Faria, 29 Rua da Carreira. Tb.e best watchma1~ei.sare Silvano de Freitas, 40 Riia dos Ferseiros ; Port~iease,5 Eiltrada da Cidade. The Commerce.-Thongli f i e chief ilative ind~istry2 is wiiie-niakiiig,3 there is a siiperior outpiit of miisical instrumeilts,4 wicker-work, niid iiecdlework, Rladeiran Lace and Embroidery.-There is a great demand for Mndeirail needle-work i11 Englaiid,"

' Sabino has an excellent assortment of

precious stones. Chapter XXIV., Business Hours. Chapter XXIII., The Vine and the Wine. Chapter XIV., Music and Musical Instruments. "his chapter, MADEIRAIN 1898, Ernbroidery Industry.

a

102

R U A DO A L J U B E . T H E P R I N C I P A L S H O P P I N G

STREET

(COilIiiier~eanb

Itrnonet,

a n a tl co~isidcrnblcdernana foi Madeirari lace alld oriinrnciittll iiccdle-woi-Ir iii tlie Unitcd States. Ti; itj a, grcai; pity thnt inaily lovers aiid critics of tlic a r t oí' tlio ii~cdlcnrc as yet so igilorailt of M:~dc,i rn's aupcrior outpizt, which is uiiexcelled. F. A. Figizicistl has opciied a shop at 5 Rua dos C a l ) c l l i ~ t n ~for , tlic snpply o£ fiiie qilalitics oí' cnibroidc~y,eithcr made up iiito articles of attii*~) or i11 piccc. Dressmakers. -~ x p c ~ ~ i c i i c eclressmal~ers d are cmployed, siid ladies' aiid childreil's clothes inade t o xnc~siiilca t vcry sl-iort ~iotice. Ali assortmeilt oE edgiilgs, izisci*f;ioiis,wide pieces, Iiniidkerchiefs, ancl sillç slinwls is t o be foaiid a t a11 times. Dealers in Articles of Native Industry,-Otller dcalci-s i a aji'ticles of native iildiistry-feather Aowors, ambroidcry, failcy beskets, osier-work, and inldd-woi*li-nse ~ u r l i i i ~ t oArcade, ii opposito tlio ciisl;om-lio~~so;Camacho CSE Rodidrigues, J?ilaçs da Coizstitujçtio; Go~ivea,M. Firmiilo de, 61 Rua do h l j a b e ; Rodiignes, Josci M., 12 Rue d a s Marc,as. ~ ~ b ~ c c o , -word A here to sm,olcers: a lmge ns~ortmeldof good importcd cigars aiid cigarcttcs caii bo had a t 23 Rua do Aljube, at 105

Goldeii Gate," 7 Entrada da Cidade. Nat ivegrowii tobacco is scarce alid of an inferior qiiality. Other Products. - Stavcs bronght from .the Uiiited States are made iiito casks, aiid are theii exported fiom Faiichal iii coiisiderable quaiitities. Amoiig other prodnctioiis are sugar, molasses, giiava jelly,l aiid cayeniie pepper. Sugar.-The caiie2 was iiitroduced in the yeay 1432 aiid the first sugar-mil1 was erected iii the same year. Duriiig the sixteenth ceiitury sngas was the staple prodiict. The arms of the city of Fiinclial are Gve sugar-loaves. I r i the year 1882 some two millioii six hiiiidsed aiid one thousaiid eight huridred aiid seveiity poui~dsof sugar were pi.odiiced, valued at fortynine thousaiid poiiilds fiterliilg. Iii 1883 the ont1x1t was soinewhat less, beiiig two inillioii tliree I-iuiidred aiid tweilty thonsaiid poiinds, worth forty-tliree tlioiisand seveil huiidred po~iilds. Of tliis thirty-fonr thonsaiid one huiidred aiid sevan ~oiirids'wortli was exported. "

Chapter XVIII., Guava. The growing of the cane is the leading industry in the neighbourhood of Fayal, as well as in many other localities of the island. Cliapter X., Fayal. 106

Cane spirit.-Thc procliiction of cane spirit is qiiitc large. Iii 1882 it was three huiidred aiid tweiity-seveii tboiisand galloils, valaed at fortyseven thoiisai~d iiiiie liiiiidred aiid forty pounds sterling; iii 1883 it was oile hiixidred aiid seveiityeight tliousaild galloiis, of the valiie of tweiityGve thousaiid tlliee hiii~dred aiid thirty-thiee pouiids. Mo1asses.-The bost sugar is woith about three thousaiicl seveil huildi.e$ reis per arroba,l or six~ e i i c eper poiind, i11 Fiiiichal. One hiindred Irilos of caiie prodnce fiom six and a half t o elevei1 kilos of sugar and about seveiiteeii decilitros of spirit. Two kilos of sligar of the first qiiality, oile kilo o£ the aecoiid aiid third qualities, . five hrmdred grammas oE molasses (wliich cai1 be distilled iiito spirit) cai1 be prodi-iced fiom eighteen litros (foiir gallons) of caiiejiiice. Cayenne ~epper.-Cayenno pepper is largely expoi*ted, being of a siiperior clnality and of a most exqiiisite carmiiie coloiir tliat 'eiiders it desiiable to the Europcaii gonrmaiid. Chapter VI., Market Valcie of Commodities. I 07

Grain.-Tlie cereal lia~vestscarcely silffices to siipply the waiits of tlie people? Tlie heavy import diity2freque~itlyrestricts the sale of mil7~o (inaize) among tlie people of tlie lower class, with wliom it is a favouritc article of snbsisteilce. Unprosperous Condition of Madeira.-Mi, George H. IlIayward, tlic Eiiglisli consiil to Madeira, said iii his repoi-t for 1883, " This islaiid is not in a prosperous coi~ditioii,~ aiid as loiig as tlle inotliercoilntry does not niodify its tasatioil, remove restrictioils o11 shippiiig aiid trade, open a lazaretto foi. qnaraiitiiie piirposes, aiid iiiidertake usefiil pilblic ~vorlisiii tlie islaild, i t is aseless to hope 1or any permaiieiit improvemeiit." Shipping Concessions for Madeira.-011 May 2, 1595, Uilitcd States Coiisiil Joiles ilotified tlie State Departineilt at Washiiigtoii that a telegram liad beeii reccived iii Fiiiiclial by tlie civil goveriioi. of Madeira fiom the miiiister of foreigil affairs a t Lisboii, tliat read as follows : "A decrec is piiblislied to-day iii tvhich foreigii vessels are given liberty to carry cargo betweeii P o r t n g d

' Chapter XIV., Famine. This cliapter, Portugal's Income from Madeira.

Chapter XIII., Bad Government. 108

and the islaild of Madeira ; also, continuiilg the law for five years exemptiilg a11 vessels with cargo fi.om toiillage diies iii the port of Fuiiclial." Altlzongh some of the siibjects embodied. ili the followiiig reports liave beeii already touched ~ 1 ~ 0 1iil 1 tl-iis work, there is, nevei-theless, considerable additioiial iiiformatioii coiltaiized in them. Moreovei*,coinii-ig, as tlie reports do, from Uiiited States Consiil Joizes, they are autl~oritative. The write;, tlierefore, deems that l-iis treatise would be iiicoinplete if thcy were onzitted. Letter from the United States Department of State. -Permission to repiiblisli them has beeil given iii the following letter :DEPARTAIENT OF STATE, WASHINQTON, July 26, 1899.

A. J. DREXEL BIDDLE,ESQUIRE, DREXEL BUILDINQ,PHILADELPHII, PA, SIR,-In reply to your couimiinication of the 21st instnnt, asking permission to embody, in your forthcoming work, to be pnblished in tmo volumes in London and Amexica under the title of " The Land of the ' ~ i n e , "the report of tlie Arnerican consul to Madeira, I take pleasure in infoiming you that you have tliis permission. I t is the aim of the Department to give the widest possible 109

circulation to the consular reports, which are mude for the benefit of American trade and manufacturing interests. Very truly yours, WM. H. MICIIAEL, Chief CZe~lc.

Tl-ie consular reports follow. Value of a Pear's Export of Wine t o the United States.-Tlie coilsular report of 1896 shows for tllat year exports of Madeira wiiic fisom Fniiclial dedared for the Uilited Statcs to tlie valiie of $4,201.19.

AN ACICOUNT oa MADEIRAIN 1897. Consul Joiies seiit; an iiiidated commniiicatioii fioin Fuiichal, receivecl by tlio Deyartmeiit October 15, 1897, as follows :A Watering-Place and Health-Resort.-Macleira is a watering-place and liealth-resort, and is not of commercial importence to any great extent. People come here in bearcli of health, rest, and pleasuro. Its mild and equable climate has been advertised for so many years by tlie travelling public tliat L i has become the standard by which a11 other healtliresorts are compared.' , People coming here are generally equipped for the season, nnd want only tlie little things that &aPter IV., Why Mdeíra is E~peciallyInteresling to the World ; Chapter XT., Warning to the Invalid. 110

Cominerce anb monep were left behind, forgotten in the departure. The season begins Iiere about the 1st of October and continues ti11 June, and, altliougli Madeira ia not on the regular route of the American traveller, more Americans were here last kinter than were ever here before in one season. The many lines of steamers calling regularly make this island a coalingstation of importance. A table is appended showing the different lines that stop regularly. Besides these, many other steamers call, as per advertisement, and training-ships, marvessels, ancl yachts of every nation are regular visitors. The quiet waters and sheltered bay are well adapted for training and practising purposes. American Staves for Wine-Caske.-The principal imports to Madeira from the United States are mood aQve8, lumber, petroleum, corn, and wheat. AI1 tlie mine-casks used here are made from American staves. Very little corn is grown on this island-so little that it can hardly be called a local product. Corn wns formerly brought from Morocco. This is yellow corn, and was brought in bulk by sailing-vessels, The destruction of the Morocco crop in 1893 by locusts caused the dealers to buy more from the United States, nnd 1110 Argentine Republic hns also come in for its portion. The duty on corn lias been fixed at one-half cent per pound. Madeira grows nboiit one-sixth of the wheat required for local consumption. This never reaches Funchal, But is pound in the little water-mills of the country. Flour is not imporLed into Madeira. The government reqiiires that d l tlie wheat ol Portugal must be exhausted before foreign wheat can be imported; tlie qiiantity tliat eacli shall buy is then 111

--

-

.(

.

Union Royd Steamship Co.

/

British.

Castle Royal Mail Packet Steamship Co. . . . . . . British.

.

/ I .

.

/

Weekiy.

/

Bouthampton.

Cape of' Good Hope.

a

Weekly.

London.

Cape of Good Hope. &

.

British.

Fortnightly.

Liverpool.

West coast of Africa.

British and African Steamship Co.

Eriiish.

Fortnightly.

Liverpool.

West coast of Africa.

African Steamship Co.

'

.

.

Booth Steamship Co.

.

. .

.

.

'E Red Cross Line m Woerman Line Sud-Amerikan Forwood Line

.

Impreza, Insular Impreza, National

. .

. .

. . .

. . . . . . . . . .' . . 1

/

@ C3

Eritish.

Fortnightly.

British.

Fortnightly.

German.

Fortnightly. Hamburg.

West coast of Africa.

German.

Weekly.

Hambnrg.

South America.

British.

Weekly.

London.

Madeira and Canariel.

Portuguese. Fortnightly.

1

Porhiguese. Fortnightly.

Liverpool, via ParaLisbon. pam.

l Lisbon.

I

Lisbon.

Chapter VI.,All about Steamship Routes.

/ Azores.

1

West coast of Africa,

=r

f/

% ct.

s

C3

2

apportioned to tlie different dealers. Tlie mills and dealers are registered, nnd the larger iiaills are not allowed to se11 to the smaller. Each boya on its own account, or through its own dealer ; all ia dolie tlirougli governmental permita. The q~iantityto be importecl is deciclecl iil August of eacli year, anù at tlie snine time the duty is fixed. The duty for this yenr ia one oent per pound.

IMPORT~ IN 1807.-h2-ports of and Dutz'es 072 CToocls i~nported Znto ddndcira fiona Janzmy lo Jzhly, 1897. Couutriea.

United Stntesl . . Great Britaiu . . Argontine Repiiblic Germaiiy . . . Morocco . . . . Africa . . . . Austria . . . . Portugal. . . . Spain Cliina . . . . Italy . . . . . . Iildia . . . . . I-Iolland Switzerlalid

VaIue in Gold.

. . $217,630 . . 322,288 . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . .

44,676 40,305 11,645 6,761 19 2,626 673 368 2 409 233 189

. . . . . . . . . . . Total . . . . . $647,724

Duties.

$68,131 112,243 9,251 16,621 2,627 1,505 8 356 259 598 .72 671 369 21

. . .

--

Tlie imports from tlie United States in the corresponding period (Jauiinry to July) of 1896 arnounted to $120,370 ; tlie auioulit of duty paid was $64,393, 116 L

Gbe Planb oE tbe Wlne EXPORTS POR

T ~ UNITED E STATES IN

por& dcclared for tl~eUnitecl &ales at Pisca1 Year eaded Jz~lze30, 1897. Aiticles.

I I 1 1 1 1 ...... 1 Sept. 30.

Deo. 81.

. . ... ...

Wine ~icker-work' Mndeira industr; u n i antiquities.

1897.-Vulz~e of Ex~ U I ~ dC~ ~~ rUi nthe ~g

$2,627.02

$1,2114.88

Mnroh 31.

Jutie 30.

$4,OGO.97

$2,236.33

2

.............................

ITofnl.

$10,109.17

239.28

211.12 239.28

C o i i s ~Joi~es ~l sent from Pniichal the followiilg statistics of trade :Trade Statistics.-The imports into Madeira in 1897 wore valued at $1,166,677, agaiust $830,032 in 1896. Coal, cereals, and dry goods were tlie chief articles. The exporta were $1,324,768, ngainst $938,631 in 1896, wine, the most importaut export, figuring nt $895,732 iii 1897. Tlie tracla with tlie principal countries in 1897 was :Countries.

Great Britain Russia . . . Germany . . Morocco . . France . . . America . .

Exports.

. . . . $483,949

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

116

187,613 302,263 248 170,853 649

Importe.

$668,846 861 91,052 16,648 17,139 205,699

Goiiimerce anb SnZonep Tlie island of Madeira is situated between 32' 37' and 32" 49' nortli latitude and 1 6 O 31' and 1 7 O 16' west longitiido. I t is thirty-eight miles long from eust to west, aud nbotit thirteen miles in breadtl~. A central or dividing range of nlountains runs the entire length of the island. Tlie Iiigllest peak attains six tliousand feet, and the average lieiglit of tlio range is more than four thousand five Iiundred feet. Tbe niountltins infiuence the climate, nnd consequently the vegetation of the island The frriits and grnin of Europe and America are cultivated to an elevation of two thousand six hnndred feet above the sea-level, mhilst the sugar nnd sugnr-caiie, ns well as tropical froits, grow on the lower grouncls, whcre the climate is genial aud tlie soil atronger. Water-Siipp1y.-Tlie supply of water for the crops depends aulirely 011 irrigation: as during the summer inoriths no rain fnlls on tlie isluiid. A portion of the lieavy rains that full dui.iiig tlic wiiiter months is stored ou tlie moiintain sides, tlud f r o ~ ntheae tlie water is distl~ibilteclduring the summer tlirougli atona cliannels, called '' levndas." Some of these lovatlna aro fifty nnd sevenly miles long, carrying water in rt xigzag wny froin the northernmost part of the islnnd to tlie sontlierninosl;, Wheiever water c l t ~be carried, crops cau. be growii, Wt~teria tlie most vduable property in Madeira. AFJa rulo, levadas are owned by corporations, but tlie longor o~icsaro owned by tlio goveinmeiit. Tliese are under tlio Clinpter XVII., Irrigation. 11.-7

117

control of the minister of public works, an officer appointed from Lisbon. The population of Madeira, by the last census, s a s one hcindred and forty tliousand, and tlie island is assumed to have an area of three Iiundred scluare iniles. A large portion of the surface is unfit for cultivation. Above the two thousand six hundred foot line is tlie region of the bilberry, heath, and broom, and it is too barren and exposed for tlie productíon of grain. This constitutes fully one-tliird of tlie island, and a large portion of tlie remaiuder is eitlier barreli roclr or too precipitous for tillage; so tliat probably not more than one-hnlf the islaud is in actual cultivation.' Density o£ tlle Popu1ation.-The wonderful fertility of tlie island is sliown by tlie fnct that one hiiildred aiid fifly square miles support a population of one Iiundred anù forty tliousancl, a population2 more dense than that of Belgium, tlie most clense country of the contiilent of Europe, where there are foiir hundred nud eighty-fivc persons to tlie sqiiare mile; tliis, too, without n snfficient water-supply and with the motit rude and primitive uterisils for cultivatiou. Funclial is the capital of the island, aud is the tliird city in Portugal. Being a health-resort for nll Europe, it is supported almost entirely by foreigiiers. The Portugiiese government lias at Itlst recoguized tliis, and lias abrogated most of tlie laws tliat discriminated againsl tlie stranger. The pnssport systein, so long in vogue, lias been annulled, and Chapter VII., Legend of the Fountain ; Chnpter XIV., Famine. Clinpter XII., Popiilation. 116,

Cominecce aitb flDoitep persons coming here to stop for some time can bring mith them, free of duty, household mares, such as linen, silver, etc., or these can follow tbeir owners within a limit of thirty days, provided they shom signs of use. The annexed tablesl explain themselves. The export tables do not give America a fair rsting. As me have no regular direct line of steamers from here to America, our exports are shipped uia England and are lilaced by the customs to the credit of that country. Exporta to America are put down at $649.91, when, as a matter of fact, our invoices shom exportations to the value of $6,715.88 for the quarter ended December 31, 1897. The value of $549.91 mas shipped direct to New York by the Portuguese Peninsular Line, that touches here only when bringing cargo to the island. Egg Export.-The export of eggsz to South Africa has cleveloped, aiid is remarkably large for this island. About thirty tqris were exported jn 1896, and betmeen five hundred and six hundred tons in 1897. The bulk of these went to Johannesberg. As a direct line of steamers lias been established betmeen New York and Cape Town, our people should get a large portion of this trade. The hfadeira eggs are bought hcre in the market at tmo dollars per hundred, and are sold in Johannesberg at ten dollars. Embroidery 1ndustry.-I wish to cal1 attention to the embroidery industry ; the increase of exports in this line, over last year, is twenty-five tons. The bulk of this has gone to Statistics of Trade for 1896 und 1897, szipya. Cliapter VI., Market Value of Commodities; Chapter XXIV., The Domestic Fowls. 119

Gbg Zanb ol the Wlne England and Germany, these countries having agents here that buy tlie work. T. C. JONES, ConsuZ. ?UNOHAL, July 25,1898.

At the w~it~er's request to Coiisul Jones that he pen an a c c o ~ ~ noft the preseiit-day situatioli at Madeira for iiicliision iii this voliime, Mr. Joiiea wrote l;lie following :CONSULATI OI THE

UNITED~~'ATES,

Buiiohal, July, 1899.

MY DEAR MR.BIDDLE: I remeinber yonr visit to this islancl very well indeed, and yonr being at tlie Carmo IIotel Arinex ou tlie night of tlie row."nntlier a stirring niglit that I ! The New Pier.-Madeira lias recently improved wondcrfully. A beautiful new piei2 has taken the place of tlie old tuinbled-clown wall that sCood tliere, a disgrace to our beauLifiil city. The Breakwater.-A broalcwatei.5 hns been bnilt coiinectirig the Loo Rock with the shore, aud, instead of taking boats as they once did to reach tlie roclc, tlie soldíers now march eight abreast along tlie solid brenlrwater to the stairs thnt

a

Chapter XIII,, The Figlit of 1889. Chapter V., Present Manrier of Lrtnding. Chapter V., Present Manuer of Landing. 120

U N I T E D S T A T E S CONSUL I O N E S R I D I N F T H R O U G H T H E C A R M I > G I I H D E N S

'Iead up to the fort on the top of the " Loo." Here, on the top of this picturesque roclc, standing eighty feet above the sea-level, the flags of the different nations are saluted as they float from tlie masts of tlie different war-ships. Natal Day of the King and Quem.-3'roin this rock the cannona snlute tlie anniversaries of the kingl nnd queen, for they have the same natal day. They te11 us of Independence Dny and other great events nnd liappenings in the life of 'old Portugal. Tliis fort is arined mitli fourteen guns, and the inariner sees the red light displayed there at night fifteen iniles away. Carlyle said, "Happy the country that has no hi~tory." Portugal haa liad no hislory for many years, yet she might be happier were her debts paid aud her money at par? The Asplialt Road.-From the breakwater to the pier anew road has been built. It is bmad and leve1 and mel1 laid down in asphult. Tlie Bay ~yndits Shipping.-Towering cliffs on the one hand and a summer sea lrissing the wall on the other. By the road-side liere and there are seats cut in the basaltio rock and liid away in the nooks-of the cliff. As you sit on these cosey seats or walk on tlie polished road, the bay and its shipping are before you. The bay5 is rarely without its mnn-ofway and its yaclit. Wliile I write an English and a French man-of-mar are lying just off the Loo Rock. A graceful French sailing-yacht and other vessels are rolling lazily in Cliapter IV., Dom Carlos I.,the Present King. Wliapter XVI., Letter from Blandy Brothers $ Company. Clinpter V,, I n Punchal Bay. 123

the evening's sunny sea, and outside the big " Norman," of the Union Line, is coming in from the Cape of Good Hope. Prapa da Rainha.-A new praga has been built. I t stretches along the nem road towards the Pontinha-Breakwater. Trees, plants, and flowers are there, as if by mrtgic. I t is most monderful how trees and plants "grow here. Tlie New Garden is not fifteen years old, yet palms are growing there that mould measure five feet across tlie stnmp. A n oalr standiiig iu the Carmo Garden not fifty years old has a circumference of more than twenty feet. A seat of boards Jvas put round this tree and fastened to it. The growth p~illed the seat apart again and again. Tlie seat is there now, but standing alone and well out from the tree. A tree fern in Mr. Reicl's quiuta has reached tlie height of thirty feet and more above the ground. Pavilions a i ~ da band-stand adorn this new praga, or " Pragada Rainha,"' as i t is called, and fiowers and creepers galore. The Electric-Light Vant.-TLe best recent improvement for F~inchalia tlie plant of the electric light. Arc-liglits are on the pior, on the Pontinlia road, in front of the nem tlieatre, at the entrance of tlie city froiu the sea, in the praqas and other piiblic places. No city shows up better from the sea tlian Funchal. (Joming in a t night on a steamer and standing oa deck, tlie long line of electric lights on tlie Mount Road and the curved lines of shorter streets give it the appearance of a city of a population of a hundred thousand, when as a matter of fact the population is a scant forty thousand, according to tlie last census. Chapter VII., Prapa da Rainha. 124

I n tlie clny the wonderful green mountains, covered with trees ali3 tangled vines, and lower down sugar-cane, bananas, nnd otlier ciiltivnted plants, ndd their strength to this world of green. Tlie terraced gardens, tlio brillinritly wliite houses risiug as tliey recede from the shore, ndd to tliis sunshine and perpetua1 snmmer, aiid yo~iliave a fairly good picture of Funchal as seen by n strnnger for tlie first time. Captain Marryat says, " I do not Irriow a spot on the globe mliich so astonishes and deliglits upon first arrival as tlie island of Madeira." The Tramway.-Aiio~lier improvement is the tsnmway running from the picr to tlie enstern part of the city aiid the statioii of tlle Mount Railway.' A sliip comiiig in willi cargo or for coals miist stop here for from threc to five liours. I t is such a l~ixiiryfor tlie passengers to stretcli tlieir legs on shorc, and get a square meal of frcsh ment, vegelables, millr, and eggs. Tlien lialf an liour on tlie MouiiL Railway takes them to the Mount, wliere they cai1 hnve n wallr in tlie Mouilt Park nnd loolc a t tlie city spread out below, nnd beyoncl at Lhe bay aud tlie shiliping. 0mibuses.-Or, if tliey lilce it better, a line of 'buses runs froni the piar to Reid's New HoteLa No hotel in tlie world lias a fiiier situation tliaii tlie " New :" it stnnds on its beautiful grouilds on n bold cliff two liundreil feet nbove sea-leve1 and coinmands tlie bay and shippiiig. I1 stmds aL the beginning of the beautiful New Rond.

a

Chapter VII., Railway aiid Tramway. Oliapter VI., Tlie New Hotel, 126

The New Road t h e only Leve1 Roa&-This road follows the sea for aix miles to the viIlage of Camara de Lobos, aud is the only leve1 road on the island. Here you can Lave a drive or a gallop or a bicycle race. This road is margined witli plnne-trees, wl.iich cast a grateful shade at a11 hours of the day, and pretty ~vhitecottages in terraced gardens dot the way and mark the thrift of the garden-farmer. Hoping to se0 you out here again, I am,very respectfully, Your friend, T. C. JONES.

The wi.iteindesiiles to inake public ackilowledgiz~entof tlie great conrtesy sliowiz him by tlze State Departineiit, tlirough wliose kind offices hc iu eiinbled to incliide tlze very latest trade statistics of tho Madeira Islands as he goes to presa witli the present work. T1.i~followiiig lettei. from the State Departmcnt will serve 9 s a fitting illtsod~ctioilto tlic r e ~ o r:t DEP~XTNENT OF STATE,WASBINQTON, Decembcr 17,1900.

DBEXELBIDDLE, ESQ., 228 SOUTEI FOURTII ST.,PIIILADELPEIIA, PA.

DEAR SIR,-Replying to your letter of tlie 12th instant, addreysed to Mr. Micliael, which has been ieferred to this 126

bureau for answer, I have to state tliat inasmuch as the report requested by yo~iia just about to go to press, we think it best to send you a copy of the stateinent on the trade of Madeira tliat will appear in the forthcoming edition of the " Review of the World's Co~nmerce." The report of Consul Jones, of Funclial, is too long to copy, especially a8 it contains a number of tables, of which the folloming is rt brief summary, Very triily yours, FREDERIO EMORY,

CI~ief,Bu~eaz~ of ~ o r c i ~Comnzerce. k

STATISTIOS OF TBADEFOR 1899. Exports in 1899, says Coi~siilJones, of Fiiiiclial, were valued a t $1,560,800, aild consisted chiefiy of embroideries ($2GG,700), wine ($876,700), bntter ($IG1,100), eggs ($104,600), alid finits ($41,400). Exports to the United States amoiinted to $15,900, ovei $14,000 of this coiisistiiig of wiiie. Imports froin the Uilited States were valiicd at $504,800, aiicl. embraced coril, wbeat, petrolenm, aild staves. Wheat is tlie most iniportai~titem i11 this list, amoiiiitiiig to $331,400; corii was valiied at $104,400. Tlie totd valiie of imports was $1,847,700. A coiisiderable qaaiitity of tobacco, says the coasul, is broiiglit from the Azores, and, not paying custoins dutiea, does iiot appeai on tlio books, 127

Zbe Zaizb o f tbe Wfne The city of F~iiichalis ilow liglited by electricity.

Americali Tice and Deputy Coilsnl W. J. G. Reid makes a plea, i11 liis latest repost to tlie Departineiit of State nt Washiiigtoi~,U. S. A., for ai1 iiicrease iii direct commuilicatioii between the Uiiitecl. Statcs ailcl Madeira. Thc wsiter is iii tlioroiigl~sympathy witli Mr. Reid's views of the sit~~atioli, aiid joiiis liis wislios with tliose of Mr. Reid's that direct coinm~iiiicatioiimay be rapidly opeiied up. Mr. Reid writep, :"

It is deeply to Ise regretted tliat we have no regular line

callirig liere frorn New Yorlr, as tliis would certainly immensely increase tlia trade bekween America and Madeira. Once a year a German steauier ca11s here from New York with n large numbei of pwssengers, who a11 complain of Lhe laclr of steamers stopping here on tlieir way to the Mediterranean. " The import trade witli tliis island is mostly with England and Germany. Tlie latter sends travellers regularly, nnd her trade has increased largely. 'I For many years American liouses liave completely 128

Commerce anb f'Donep neglected trade liere. The only business done is iii wheat, corn, staves, and petroleum. Lstely, Russian oil has taken the place of American, but since the new commercial treaty lias come into force the trade will go back to America."

t r f g a t f ~ l l, Cultivatioii iii Madeira is depeadeiit to a great cxteiit upon irrigation.' Tbe scarcity oE raiii o11 tho

lnilds, howevci., tliaii iii the lower regioiis. T h o r ~ g l itliere are streams iii ploiity wl~ichseldom become dry, yct tlie soui*cesof tliese are 1113 iil tl-ie rnoiziitaiils, aiid tlie wateiV,dashiiig fiom toweriiig heiglits iiito deep il:~viiics,ia clificiilt to obtain wliere it is i~ecded. Levadas.-Biit l-iere aro the Zeundas, a lmrt of Madeira's excellei~tsystem of ii1rigatioii. Moiiiitaiii strcams are stoppcd far np ncar tlieir sonrces and divorted iiito tlicso Zeivadccs,-cliaiiiicls bizilt oP masoiii*y or coiistriicted in tl-ie solid roc11-,whicli colidzzct the watcr to tl-ie cultivated lailds below, wl-iere it is dealt ont for ti, poriod of sevoral Oliapter XVI., M ~ u r c r nIN~ 1808, Wnler-Supply. 186

hours oii stated dates t o the laiid-owlieis wlio have obtained a right t o its use. The Opening o f the Sluices,-The openiiig of tlie aliiices is ~iiiderthe clirectioii of tlie levadeiro," aiid gieat excitemeiit prevails anioiig thc agriciiltiiristsl wlieii tlie hour a t which they may expect their water-supply arrives. Coiisiderable ainusemeiit is afforded to the disiiiterestcd siglit-seer ií' he be pibeseiito11 siich ali occasioii, for the iiatives, rediziiig tlie sliort spaco oí' time that they Iiave iii whicli to irrig.ato tlieir Bclds and fi11 their waf-ei--tailks,sccm to losc til1 fielf-coiitiol at sight of the %rst gusl.1 oF water, aiid das11 hitlier aiicl tliithoi, waviiig their arme aiid yelliiig lilie inadmeli. Tlicir appni-ciitly fi-antic coiiduct aiid tlic iii~aystematicway iii wl-iich tliey go aboiit this worlc aar rathei rcmarkable, iii vievv o l thc fact that the irrigatioli of' their fields is of iiccessily 3101; B I ~ O V C ~to ~ YthC1T.l. Vegetable Products.-The staplc agriciiltural proùuct is tEie giapc.2 Amoilg Ihc vcgctablcs growii íbr tlie most coiisiclci.~Lblecoiisuinptioii arc

a

Clliapltor VIII., Fariniiig Oountry. Cliaptor XXIII,, Tlie Vina and tha,Wino. 136

..-

, o:.

Elgttciiltiite nnb Uegetable 'IRalelng thc batata (comnioiz or Irish potato), &rJLanze (yam, or Iiidian potato), aiid batata edulis (sweet l)otato), the latter yieldiag three or foiir crops aiii1r1ally aild beiilg liiglily esteemed as a delicioiis artiele of diet. Pigs, and the Po~itionthey occupy in the Peasant's Househo1d.-Tlic leavcs o i the sweet potato plant are fcd to tlie pigs, whicli express tlieir gratification over sxicli iood iii moro clamorons griluts than o11 receipt of thc daiiltiest swill. Aiid the pr'cference of tlie pig is carefcilly regarded, for the pig is tlie poor man's pet. A sriperstitious belief tliat it briilgs fortnlie to its owiier ia probtlbly tlie cxplaiiatioli of thc respected positioii which it ocoripies as a meinber of the peasailt's liorisehold. For it receives various polite attentions and ia iiirtlier hoiionred by beiiig one day slain, to be served rip as a priiicipltl clish at some roligious ~elebration,~ its flesli beiilg oii occasions oI festivity thc prescribed food. Another Staple Vegetable 37ood.-Abobora d'agua (puinpki~i)is d s o a staple food, aild its vine is Dequently trained over the straw-thatched (Iliapt~rXXV.,FOto-Dnys niid Religious Qelebration~. JI.-8

130

Gbe Zanb o0 the Uine hiit o£ the coiiiitrymaii. Pepinella (a variety of cilcuiuber) is also growa exteilsively, aild is in seasoli diiring the wiiiter months. N u b o (turiiip) aiid ce~zourcc (carrot) are i11 senso11 throughout tlle year, asld COZCVB(cabbage) and cebolu (oaion) prodizcc severa1 crops alll~ually; tbe latter, called root-food, altaiiis a Iiigh degree of excelleiice iil Madeira11 soil aad is exportcd cxteilsively. Leguminous Plants.-The priiicipal legiiminous plants ciiltivated are ZujÊ~z71a (Freiicli bean), Ze?ztiihn (lentil), Q&o de bico (cliiclc-pea), t~enzogo (Iiil~isie),aiid f ezj'oelz (l-iaricot-beari). The vegetable last named coiistitutes an iinportai~tarticlc of s~ibsistc~ice to tl-ic coui~try-folli,who partalsc o£ ít daily i11 the form of a sopa (soup). Seixd, and the Road .Thither.-There is a road f ~ ~ o nS. i Vicente to Seixal that is especially fa~noiisfoi tl-ie beality of tlie sceilery wliich it commaiidrs. A jonrney by rêde cai1 be comfortably iliade fiom S. Vicei~teto Seixal isi a little luore than an honr aild CL ha1C Tlie road passes tliioiigll a diatrict of inaiiy beaiitif~ilwater-falls aild soinetimes bsrely escapes tlic das11 of tlie watei where it is tiiiiiielled through the rock t o avoid the wqter's dash. He- a mighty sheet 44Q

'El~rfcultut'eanb Uegeta'bre Rafeíng comes pliiiigiiig over a cliff anel thiiiiders into a stream directly at the road-side, and again, iu tliis fairy-land of water-falls, sparkling mouiltaiii torrents plunge over great heights iiito rnoiiiitaiu stieams at either side of tlie road. Accomiilodatioiis may be had at the villa of Dolilia RI. Frcitas,l situated picliiresqiiely upoii a stream of lava2that conti~iuesas a reef into tlie sea. This lava forinatioii is of comparatively receilt date, aild heilce w ould argue agaiiist the remoteiiess of date tvhen volcanoes becarne extiilet. Seixal is iii the heart of a fainoiis gral~e-growingdistiict, aild is the souice of inuch good wine. The approacli to Seixal f?om tlie sea is very charrniiig. The pretty little village exteiids froin the vater's edge back to a gorgeous ravine abouiiding in beaiity and eilclosed by toweriilg rnouiitahs. Throiiglz it runs and scurries ,z crystal stream to tlie oceaii, and in oiie l~lacea silvery sheet falls froin a moiintaiii into the strearn. A leisiirely hour's walk fiom Seixal brings the pedestrian to the neighbourhood of the Ribeiro das Foiites, where a, rare shriib h o w i l as "moa

Chapter VI., Lodging at Seixal. Chapter IX., Lava, 141

Cbe Zattb of the Wfne caiio" grows i11 liixnriance. The presence of this shrub here in Madeira has beeiz a cause of much speculatioii t o botanists. Rabaça1.-Here ia ailother fairy-land of materfalls sitnated some seveii hoilrs' joiiriley by rêde frorn Seixal, or more easily arrived at by tztlring a local steamerl from Fuiicl-ial to Callieta (a two hoi1i.s' ride), aild proeeediilg froin tlie latter poiilt by rêde (a f~irtherdistance, occupyiiig some tliree hours). (Tlae eharge for a i'ouiid trip pei rêde alld two bearers, if made in the same day, is 1600 reis, and 2000 reis if the trip is rnade iii a two days' j a ~ i n t . ~ ) Lodging rnay be had by those haviiig permissioii3fiam the aiitliorities in II-t~iiclialto stop at tlie l-iouse of tl-ie engiiieer at Rabaçal. Acljaceilt to the eilgirieei's hoiise are two Zeuadns whicll collect the head-waters of the Ribeira da Jaiiella and coiiduct tllern by separate tunnels from the iiio~intaii~ fastiless afar to Chapter VIII., By Steamer. a For further rates of hire, see Chapter VII., How tlie Rbde should be hired. Directions as to hom ancl where this permission can be obtained are given i n Chapter VI., Lodging at Rabapal. 142

ÊIgriculture anò WegetabIe IRai~fng the south to irrigate tlie l~arislies of Fajaã d'Ovellia, Calhêta, Prazeres, and Estreito da Calhêta. Oiic of tliese Zevadus is of old and the otlier of ~ c e n tcoiistructioii. The latter, built dariiig tlie years 1863-1877, has a tiiiiiiel 2575 feet loiig, exteiiding through tlie iiioriiitaiii at a heiglit of 2975 feet above sea-level. I t llas its source at the spriiigs of Viiite Ciilco Foiites aiid Foiites do Cedro, but a sliort distailce from the soiircc of tlie older aad upper levada. This older levada was coiistracted to secure the waters of tlie Ribeiro do Risco, aiid was iii the course of coilstriictioii diiriiig tlie years 1836-1860. Tlie patieiice aiid perseveraiice stttei~dingtlie coiistructioii of tliis Eevu,da briiigs to iriiiid tlie alinost siiperliiimali persisteiicy of tlie aiicieiit Egyptiaiis iii tlie buildiiig of tlieir mighty Sphiiix a11d I'yralnids. Tlie builders of tliis levada miist have beeii meu l-iaviag cliaractcr soinethiiig alciii to that possessed by tlie builders of the Pyi~amids aild Sphiiix. Diiriilg rnaiiy years the Mndeirans worlced, day iii aiid dsty out, chisel and inallet or pick iii haiid, aild suspeiided over Lhe edge of toweriiig cltffs, where they were exposcd to the discomfort of drippiiig and spl?lashingwater, 143

Clhe %anb of tbe "Qlfltne cutting the chaiiuel o11 tlie face of tlie preci-

ices. Tlie cornpletion of this lmnda marlied a triumpli iii tlie aist of mas011i.y. It is a tiliiiiel some 1400 feet iii lengtli m d driveii thsoi~gli tlie inoiiiitaiii a t a lieigllt of some 3430 fcet above sea-level. About a hdf-hour's distailce froin tlie liouse of tlie enginccr is a miglity ampliitl~eatrewhere a great toi*ieiltof water plui~gesdown the mouiitaiii side foizsi, thousand feet in strcams aiid small and large wster-fialls. The peipeiidiciilar sicles of thc moiuiiaiii formiilg this amphitlieatre, aiid over wliicli tlie torreiit falls, are clotlied i11 lnsiiriai~t foliage ofevery descriptioii: ferns, laurels, and ricli leafage of maiiy lciiids are ii~terspersedwitll brilliailt coloured flowew, estraordiilarily lnxuriaiit by reason of the coiistailt spray zipon tlieln from tlie descendiilg waters. Tlie floor of tlie amphitheatre is carpeted witli beaiitif~ilinosses and grasses. Paul da Serra.-Not ftr from Raba~alis t l ~ e lofty marsli of the Paul da Serra, 5000 feet above sea-level, and a desolnte waste bathed in vaporons sea-drift aiid heavy cloiids. Here there is excel144

-

a THE RABACAL WATER-FALLS

SCENE IN FUNCWAL-A

RIBEIRO.

leilt sliooting of woodcoclrl t o be Iiad, foi* tliese birds aboniid iii the inist-huiig tliicketa of tlie Paül. The best time for shooting is a t iiiglitfall, whcn tlie birds are astir iri searcli of food. Ribeiros.--1t has already beeii told, iii the first part of tliis cl~apter,liow tlie Zeuadcts are xnade to carry frcsli water fioin tlie nio~ataiiispriilgs to tlie lowlaiicls for piirposea o i irrigatioli. Three mouiltaixi streams fiiid their wsy to tlie sea throngh F~ziiclial, crossiilg the city a t di ffereiit poiiits. They are called ~ i 6 e Z ~ o s . Their curreiits are liemiilcd iii oii either sido by tall, massive walls, l h e iiccessity for wliicli is ordiiiarily not zlp~areiit, as tlie ~trcainsappear t o be inere Brool~letstliat daiice or trickle along over tlie stones aiid pebbles. . . A Freshet.-But wlicii c211 iiiilooli-ed-for fieshet or a rapid ineltii~gof tlic ice iii fie siiowy aiid clond-batlied regioiis fllls tlie rnotintaiii streams witli water to overfíowiilg, tlic dains coiistriicted iiear their sonrces biirst aiid a roai7iiig toweilt desceiids to tlie lowlaiids with foice snnicieiit to

' Clial~terXXV., Birds procrenting iii Macleirn, Woodcock. 147

carry evei-yt,liingbefore it.' A t sucli a time the iiecessity for the stone barricade is appareiit, for, tliough it inay not overflow its confines, the tiirbtileiit cnrreiit sometimes tears bridges fiom tlieir fastenings alid sweeps thim into tlie sea. Water-Spout and Flood of 1803.-0 n Suiiday the aiiltlz oP Octobei., of the year 1803, heavy raiiis fel1 oii the moiiiitaiils aiid a water-spoiit burst t1iei.e. It Ivas iiezlr the hoiir of midiiiglit wheii dowii tlio q*ibeiros,which were not walled iil then as they are now, caiiie rushiiig a mighty torrent. Hoiises were soo11 snrroui~cledby the surgiiig water aild carried oat to seae2 The oldest cliu~cliiii F i i l ~ c l ~ aNossa l, Senhora do Calliare, wiiich was biiilt by Joáo Goiiçalvez Zargo, was coinpletely swept away. Not a vestige of it iiow exists. It is related tliat oiie bf tlie Porttignese 1iobility liad giveii a grand ball tliat night aiid tliat maiiy great people were ili atteiidaiice. The noblcmaii's hoiise, tlie sceile of tlie eiitertaiiimeiit, was lifted clear of its fomdatioils and cawied iii ali i1131*ight Ohapter XXIII., The 8eason for n Freshet. Chapter XXIII., Tlie Plood of 1503. 148

@sitioli oii the crest of the rushing water out iiito tllc oceaii. Thwe for some momeiits it fioated eiltire, aiid a t the brilliaiitly illnminated windows the maiiy gnests were descried vainly struggling aild calliiig for ,lielp. Slowly the biiildiiig saiik beiieath the waves aiid every oiie WSLS lost. Tlie coilfessioii-lista of the yiiests at tliis date showed the loss of some tliree hniidred lives. Biit as the iiood proved particiilarly disastroiis iii a q~iarterof the city wliere tliere were maiiy boardiilg-lioiises aiid squalid hotels occi~piedb y sailors anil other traiisients, as well as lioiises of ill-rcprite coiitaiiiiiig womeii wliose liames weie iiot oii the coiifessioii-lists, tliere were probftbly soine 450 os 500 lives iil a11 lost. After tl-ie flood liad aiibsided, bodies tl-iat were foniid were carried t o tlie churcli entrances for identificatioli. Tbey were piled oiie apoli aiiotliei., the dead aiid t l ~ edyiiig togethes, aild iii the tiirmoi1 aild excitemeiit the latter received ilo atteiition. Maiiy wcrc tlie tiagic ciidiags of tliose wlio setained sparlrs of life which might again have been faiiiled *iilto fiame by propei medical care aiid atteiitioii. 149

idbe Zaitb oE the Wtne 0ii tlie moriiii~gfollowit~gtlie flood tlie siiii'i!? l i g l ~ trcveded heaps of dcad siid dyiag people and cattle piled with débris iii thc streets. Tliese bodies were fi11aIly collected, covered witli tai' aiid l)itch, aild bnrned. Palidcmoiiiiim reignec1 iii towii aiid coiiiitry for inany days after tlie disaster-. The flood was pretty geiieral a11 over tlic soiitli aicle of tlie islaiid-Fuiichal, Macliieo,l aiid Saiita C~LIZ si~fferiilgi~iost. Tlie country-people floclred to tlie t o w i ~a i ~ dthe towiis-people floclced to the couiitry, a fear pervadiiig the lower classes tl-iat tlic end of tl-ie world had come. Tlie raiii b c g ~ i iafie~li,and heavy cloilds hiing low oveilaiirl niid sea ; there was bnt dusky twilight even duriiig tlle midday hoiiss. Tii despair aild terror pcople riislied tlirough tlic streets day aild iiigllt bcaring torclics aild lookiiig for tlieir losi; ones ; tl-icii further . search was hopelexs, for thc bodiea were burilei!. W11eii thc streets had fiilally beeii clenrcd of the débris alid corpses thc antliorities ordered new ùoiifii~csligl~tedfor tlie piiiaposeof: f~~migatioil. Cliapter VIII., Art.Gallery in the Cliapel of tlie Sncrament, second parrtgrapli. 150

RIBEIRO FRIO BRIDGE.

Now, althougli the statenient may seem heartless, it is, nevertheless a fact, that there has beeii oiie lasting beiiefit resnltiiig fiam tliis flood of lo11g ago :The water-spoiif; wllich biirst iii the moulitaili district, probably cai-ised,as oiic scieiitist explaiiifi it, bg two ooirtray oui-rei~tsof air givirig a rotatorg inotioli to the mass of &irwliich separated tliem, brolce iip aild tsailsl~o~ted heavy sectioiis of earth aild rock fi'olii tlie interior t o the occnli becl clirectly in froiit of Friiichsl, Tlie sonnding~s aild mclioiage of the harborir were thiis msdc, aild baye rernaiiied, sevcral fathoins' less proforiiid. F

CHAPTER XVIII PRUITS

artetfea Of $t~ft,-The fsuits whicli grow iii tlie ruost considerable abiindalice aiid excellence are the banmn (bailana), loqtiot, $go (fig), yoiuba (gt~ava),uva (grape) ,peya (pear), pecego (peach), maça (apple), nzctçã ununax (pineapple), darnusco (apricot) , anzeixa (pluni), goiaba (Cattley guava), custard-apple, wzanya (mango), pitanga, alligator or avocado pear, laranja (orange), Tangeriile orange, tamclr*a (date), Zhão (citron), limo (lemoil), grosaZ7za (gooseberry), graildillas, Tabiaba aiid red baiiaiia. Guava.-Of tlzese the guava deserves especial meiitioi~,for it is ai1 exceptioilally fine friiit, grows to pesfectioii i11 tlle Madeiras, aiid constitutes a staple article of exportatioli. It is about the size of a peach, has a very roiigh skin, i10 storie, but tiny kesnels. Pineapple,-The pineapple, the cultivatioa o£ which ie iiow a leading illdustry, is another de154

licioiis fi-nit that attaiiis a degree of excelle1lce in Madeira iiiiequalled elsewhere, though, oddly, it is iiot a native product, but has been introduced. Citron.-Tlie citroii, grown for confection, is exported iii lmge qi~aiitity. 0puntia.-The opuiitia somewhat resembles the pear, aiid is a wholesome anil nutritious .food. Date-Palma-Certaiii botanists have observed ihat tlle date-palm grows exclusively in those" localities of tlie world wherein the banana-tree thrives. Iii Madeira tlie date-palm attaiizs ai1 average lieight of forty-five feet aiid prodnces buiiclles of fr~lit whicli weigh fiom fifty to seveiity-five pouads each. Banana.-A bailana-tree, which bears fruit ali# the year ro~ind,is fsom fiReeii to twenty feet high. Tlie Icaves are large aiid peiidulous. Tlie triink is usiially abont twelve iiiclles in diameter, but of 60 soft aiid spongya textilre that it may be severed with a siiigle strolce of a heavy blade. Tlie frnit geiierally grows iii two large clristers, cornpsising fiorn thirty to a liuiidred baiiailas iii each. Wlieii tlie cli~stoi* is gathered, it is necessary to cut ofl' the stalk, as the omissioil to do so would prevent ita bearing again. 157

Clhe Zanb of tlhe 11;Cllfne There is an ancient si113erstition to the effect that t l ~ banana e is the forbidden fiauit of the Bible, and, t.liough lapses of time have put a hnze of doiibt about this belief, the native is still at pains to break the fruit mheil eating it, coiisidering it a sacrilege to slice it aiid thus expose the crossshaped core. Fig.-Fiesh figs are considered a great delicacy, aiid a favourite mauner of serving tliem is with cresin, a luxiiry obtainable at no moderate price. The friiit reaches perfection diiriiig Aiigust aild September, aild is then gathered for pre~erviilg. Apple and Quince.-Apples and quiilces are abundaiit, bnt are rather dry aiid tasteless. Iioquot.-The loquot resembles a srnall peach, but tastes more like a very ripe persimmon. Custard-App1e.-Most delicate aiid toothsome of the many various fiuits is the custard-apple.

H Y D R A N Q E A H E D G E A T S A N T A ANNA.

CI-IAPTER XIX 3-LOWERING PLANTS

abeira

is verily a land of flowers.l Mr. T. Bldward Bowdicli, tlie famons coiiductorof tlie missioiz to Ashantee iil tlic early pait of the prcseilt ceiitiiry, visitcd Madeira wlzile oii his third voyage to Afiica iii the aiitomii of 1523, aild wns greatly impr~essed. by tlic liix~iriaiiceof tlie island'w flora. I-Ie said, "If Hoiner's beaiitif~ildescriptioii of the Plzanciaii Isle, where friiit a~icceededhuit aild flowcr followed fiower i11 rich aiid eiidless vairiety, be applicable to aily moderii oile, it is to Madeira.)' " At a11 seaeoiis flowera bud aad bloom aiid t11e air is fiz11 o£ perf~ifuirize. Maiiy of tlie plaizta wliicli iii onr i1ortlxerii climates must be growii iil greeiilioiises are iiidigeiioiia to Madeiran sai1 and fiouriah to a degrce of liixiiriaiice calculated t o opeu wide thc eyes of the Americaii oi Englislz @i.Chapter V,, Private $ardem; Oliapter VII., Madeiran Horticulturo, 161

deiler who tends the same varietics iii their dwarfed anel" delicate pottedl state. Geraniurn.-0f these tlie gerunio (geraiiium) shoiild bo inelitioiied Grst, for it riots iil ~iiitraiiiecl profiisioii i n Madeira, growing anywhere aiid eveiywhere, as tlie daisy grows ili Ainerica. The blossom is as large as the largest clirysantliemiirn, aiid the plants attaiii lieiglit s of from t c i ~to fifteeii feet. When growing by tlie side of a wall or of a l~oiisetlie geraizinin becomes a viiie, aild quiclcly spreads its twiniilg branches upward i11a11 directioiis. Tree-truiilcs are ofteii enveloped iii floweriilg ger ~iiinm-vines. Alexandrian Laurel.-A splendid climbcr is AlZegre campo (Alexaiidrian laiirel), aiid Sibt7ho~piu prostmta is a very graceful a i ~ dlnxiiriaiit trailer. Madeiran Pride.-The i%'ch.iunz fustuosunz (Madeirai1 pride) bears large claret-coloured ílowers tliat are very gorgeoiis. Himalayan Rose,-Hedges o£ Hiinalayaii rose are quite popiilar in t11e rural distiicts. Saxifraga Maderensis.- A pretty wl~iteflower grows 011 t l ~ eÁi?ax$rugu Muclere~tsis. Chapter XXIII., Scarlet Geraniums, 1G2

A FLOWER GARDEN.

Yellow Violete-A y ellow violet peculiar to Madeira is foniid in the viciiiity of Pico Ruivo; the loftiest moiiiitain snmmit. But a fiill description of the many plants ili Madeira wliich are worthy of iilention would fill a volumc iii itself', or a t least woiild occupy more sl~methail cai1 be sparcd for it iii a work like this of a geiierd cliaracter. Tlie following alpliabetically airanged list will serve to show tlie remarkable profusion of flowers that floiirish in Madeira. List of Luxuriant Flowering P1ants.-Wl-iile it lias beei-i compiled witli great caile, it i-iames onIy tlie more abilildttnt a i ~ dlnxiiriailt varieties, as otlier iio~veriiigplants too iiaiiieroiis to mention thrive oii the islaiid, but are less pleutif~ilaud iiiterestiiig. Calycanthns. Canterbury bells. Cantua dependens. Carnation. Celandine. Cereus. Clemitis.

hcantllus. Allainanda. Amaryllis, vn~ielies. Azalea. Begonia. Bougainvillea Calceolaria. -L

11.-9

Chapter VII., Pico Ruivo. 165

Laburnum. Lapageria. Lavender. Lilac. Lilies. Lobelia. Lychnis. Malvaviscus. Mandevilln suaveolens. Marica. Marigold. Maurandyn. Mexicaii vine. iiiIicliaelmas daisy. Mignonette. Narcissus. Neapolitan violet. Neinoghila. Pentstemon. Petunia. Pink. Pleroma. Primrose. Banunculus. Rliynchospermum jasminoides. Rosemary.

Clerodendron. Coleus. Coronilla. Daffodil. Dahlia. Delphinium. Dolichos lignosus. Esclisclioltzin. Eucharis Amazonica. Frnnciscea. Puchsia. Funkia. Gardenia. Gnzmia. Geraniums. Gesnera. Glndiolus. Gloxinias. Guernsey lily. Heart's-ense. Heliotrope. Hoya. Iris. Ixia. Jnsmine. Joncluils. Justicia. 166

Roupellia. Rue. Salvia. Solanum. Sollya. Sparaxis. Squill.

Stapelia. Stephanotis. Smeetbrier. Sweet-milliam. Thunbergia,. Tradescantia. Tritoma.

ampf no f 11 the ~ouiztalns,-Wheil t l ~ ~ visitor wearies of the towiz aiid its siglzts tliere are still tlze rural districts aild villages to be explored,' and tlie mild, riigged, aiicl forest-covered interior of t l ~ eisland to be pcilctrated. There is iiotliiilg more delightful aiiil more exhilaratiiig for tlzose witli a, love for natiiral history than to speiid some time iiz the highlaiids diiriilg the siirnnrier inontlis. Rambling czbout, 6301~clig to dell, wliei-c the mountaiii breescs play, iii search of iiew trees, feiaizs,stoi~es,iilscct~, birds, and shells, is a paradise for tlie iiatiirwlist. Tt is advisable t o have Lhe rêde a t hand o11 siioli a mouiitaiii exc~rsioii.~A iiilmber of eiltliirsiastic i.~aturalistsliave beeii acciistomed to remaili in tlzo mountaiiions regioiis as iioinads duriiig tlicj Chapter VIII., Journeys to Distant Points of Iilterest. See Chapter VII., How to dress for Mouiltaineeriiig; Where the R6de is Desirable. 168

TREES PLONG

A

C:>lINTRY

ROA0

TREES'IN

T H E N E W PUBLIC GARDENS.

suinmer. To siicl-i, and t o a11 those who intend to stay for auy leilgtli of time amidst the lofty hills of tlie interior, a teilt is highly recornmeildcd. Trees.-Aa already meiitioiled, there are forests iii tlle interior, bnt few trees iii tlie viciiiity of the coast,l except tliose iinder special cultivation iii gardens and aloizg pi~blicbo~ilevards. As the list of trees found tiiriviilg i11 Madeira iiiclades almost every variety comino11 to the world's varioiis climcs aiid soils, it would be nseless to appeiid siich a list herewitli. For where the paliil aiid the fir, tlie bailalia aild tl-ie blaclrherry, the pineapple and tlie apple grow iil liixuriaiice sido by side it would be diffictilt to fiiid s plaiit of aiiy lriild laiiguishing oii acconiit of iiilsuitable soil cw climate. 8oirie of the friiit-beariiig trees are ilained iii Chapter XVIII., iil coiliiectioii witli the description of their friiita. Papaw-Juice makes Meat Tender.-Special meiitioii might, however, here bc made of tlie papawtree, whicli bears a greeil pcar-shaped. fruit, tlie jiiice of wliich possesses tl-ie property of inalcirig toiigh meat tender. The leaves produce the saine Chapter IV., The Seven-Years' Fire. 171

resnlt if tlicy are wrapped abont such mcat for a short time. Maiiy of tlie palins are pnrticularly fine: tlie more abnndant varieties arc date-l~alni; Zatunia Bour60112Cn aiid C7~c-lnzmropsIzurnilis, fali-pal ms iiitroduced f r o n ~Portugal ; aiid cabbage-palm. Cyccrs reuolutrh, oReii tlioiigh erroiieoiisly callcd sagopalm,-it is iiot a true palm,-also grows well. Thc leadiiig iiuciferoiis trees are the waliint, the oak, aiid tIie Spaiiish chestiiiit. Chestnuts,-The ilatives eat largely of cliestiiiits, o£ ~vliiclithere are gciierally abiiiidaiit crops. Tlie favourite maliner of preparing tliein is by ioasting. Roasted chestiiuts occnpy a promiiieiit place in a11 inarlcet diaplays. Tlie leaves of the chestnut-tree are fed to the cattle. The coiliferoiis speciiriei~sinclude the giay Aleppo piiie, the Braziliaii piile, the Norfolk Islaiid piiie, aiid severa1 trees iiitroduced from tlie Cai~aricsaiid New Zealaiid. Fue1.-Pine-forest growiiig is ali iiidustry iii tlie interior. Firewood is worth ftom i~iiiethonsaiid to tcii thoiisand five liiiiidred reis per sleclge-load iii Fiiiichsl, where it cai1 also be bought iii smaller 172

Creerr q~iantities. (Sueig~zct,licath cnt and dried oii the serra, is exeelleiit iriateria1 for kiiidliilg fises. It cal1 be nsed ih lesser qilantity and is less expcasive thari larger wood, selliilg at the rrtte of fio111 sixtecii t o tweilty pieces pes oae hnndred reis. Of otber t ~ e e sthc more iioticeable are the camphor-tree, silk-cottoii tree, coral-tree, aiid Iiidia-riibber tree.

CHAPTER X X I FERNS

erne iike

C~'ee$,-There are severa1 varieties of feri1 tliat bear a close resemblance to trees, 011 accouiit of the rernarkable heigllts which tlleir fronds attaiii. Dnring tbe ~vriter's resideiice iii Madeira 11e made a collectioli of many of the iildigeiious ferns, bnt before iindei.takiiig to compile a list of the varieties l-ie carefully studied the existing lists in tlie botaiiical library of the Britisll MLIsenm, aiid f~~rtliermo~e consulted, diiriilg tlie preparatioli of his list,, valuable published works, fiom ~vliichlie received coiisiderablo assistance, aiid wliicl~ 11e takes pleasinre iii meiitioning. Thcy are '' The Syiiopsis Filicum," a compreheiisivc and thorough treatise, by the 1Messi.s. Bakei. aiid Hoolcer ; tlie List of Iildigenoua Perns," com~iledby t11e world-famous botaiiist, the late MI,.J. Y. Jolinson ; aild tlie excellent book o11 Madeira writteil iii Germail by Dr. Mittermaier, of Heidelberg. 174

AN ALPIIABETIOAL LIBT OB PERNS GROWING IN MADEIRA. SC~ENTII~IO NA~IIE.

DESCRZPTION.

Aanos~xa~~~. Ao,osticAum Svv.

a~26a7nORUW2, Found infreqiiently, and onlg in Lhe swampy parts of the forests on the north side.

ASPIDIJC~E. Aqidizim (Polyatiol~~cnz) nn- To be foiind in a11 localities; groms gukare, Sw. erlually well on tlm moiintainsicles and in tlie lowlands. A.opicl226m (Polysticl~um)an- Di~icoveredby Miss Elleii M. Tnygztlarc, vur. fatcincllilor, autlior of an excellent book fo~me. on Madeira, at Camacha in 1866 niid a t BoaVcntura in 1881. Also íliacovered by the Rev. John Buclianan .utS. Antonia cln Serra. Nnmed by Mr. Baker a t tlie ICew Gnrdens i111876. A$yidiunt e (Polysticl~~~m) Peculiar to tlie soil ; nbundant about Rabnçal, Cii~macliu,Seixal, niid S. ,fabincllunz, Sw. Vicente. Aq)itbizulz (Po(/sticAumn) Pecaliar to tlie soil. Grows iii the slinily mviries noar Lamaçeiros, ~ ~ O I I I Z ~ S I L Lowo. ~I~, Lut is more common on the Montado dos Pccegueiros. Ni)lworliz~v~ (1,n~t~ort) cl:nbu- h fragrant variely, abounding in Ztc, Ailoii. N. Acncsccii, tlio woodeil niouxitaii~ous disLowo. tricts. Ncp/~1~oCEiu?r~ (I;a8tr.cn,)cZotl- Abouncls i11uplands thaL are ilainp glllffi, Sw. ancl shady. Nq,h~~odiz6nl (Lnstrctc)li'ili.i:- A b o ~ l ~ ii11 c l ~raviiies ~ z~bovooighleeii ma^, Ricli. liiilidred fcet,

177

I'he Zanb sf tbe Wfne Continuecl. DE~C~IPTI~N.

~ ~ C I E N T ~NINE. ~IC

Common below eighteen hundred feet. Nepi~rodium(Zastrecl)nzon- Rsre: found only abont the Lamatanum, Balrcr. L. O~eop- çeiros levada, Pico da Buna, and de~is,Presl. Pico Canario. Neph~odiuqlz(Lnstrec') spi- Grows abnndantly in the forests, nz~loszim,Desv. t ~ n dluxuriantly a t Lamsçeiros, S. Antonio da Serra, and Ribeiro Frio. Polgsllslz'chz~m rnaclere~zse, Grows a t Ribeira da Janella. Johnson. Neph~odiummolle, Dosv.

Groms abnndantly in the forest lands, but more 1uxurisnLly when cultivated. Flourishes at Camacba, anil in the S. Luzia ravine. Abundant along the banlrs of the slreains. Foiind on tlie sidos of walls and rocks in the neighbourhood of Camacha, and veiy occasionally in 0 t h localities not exceeding two liundred and fifty feet above sea-level. Aspleni~im H'rnionitis, L . Luxuriant on sliaded rocks a t the north side. dsplenium lanceohtunt, Found frequently i n the walls and on the rocks above FunchaI. Huds.

178

SOIBNTIPIC NA~IE.

DESCRLPTION.

Aspleiiizt71zntarinz~n;l, Huds. Profuse on the rocks aiid in the (Sea splcenwort.) caves of the nartli coast. Asplcniuna ~~~onantf~emun~, Common in tlie forests of the north L. side and along the banks of mountain streairis. Asplciaium tricf~omanes, L. Corntnon doiig the walls of the uplands, but never groming in localities above three thousand six hundred feet. Asplenium (Ail~yrium) um- Common ih. t h e dark ravines and brosum, J. Sm. along the banks of running mater, between the heights of tmo thousand and three thousand five hunclred feet, its fronds often attaining a height of six feet.

BLEUHNIB. Woodwardict radicana, 8m.

One of the tmo most beautiful ferns of the island ; its fronrls often attain the height of eight feet. I t groms luxuriantly in the neighbourhood of Santa Anna and is common nenr mater-falls.

DAVALLIE~E. Cyslopterisfragilh, Bernh.

Described as the brittle bladderfcrn, this variety is common to marshes and to a11damp localities below two thousand nine hundred feet.

179

Cbe Zaitb of tbe "QPlfne AN ALPHABETECAL LIBT OF FERNS GROTVINO IN MADEIRASCIENTIFIC NANE.

Contilzued.

DESCRIPTION.

Davallia cannriensis, Smith. Anglicised as hare's-foot fern, is to be found on the trees, wdls, and rocks in various parts of the ialand. I n the dry season Lhe froncls die; biit new ones talre their places aftw the fall rains. DIUKBONIEB. Dicksonia Culcila, L7Herit. Tlie other of thc tmo inost luxuriant Msdeiran ferns, nom rare in most parts of tlie island, and growing in abundnnce only in the high bnt damp forest tracts o i the Montaclo dos Peçegeiros and in the uncultivatecl monntain regions of Seixal. The verdant, feathery leaves often rise to a height of ten feet. Pillows stuffed mitli the sillry fibres from the base of the stems are highly prized by Portiiguese grandees. Uymnog~~amma leptophylla, A sinall, featlicry feni, in foliage Desv. duririg only afow weeks annually, and then appeariilg in shady liolloms 2nd on sandstone walls in thc neiglibourhoods of Santo Airiaro and S. Antonio. Season during March and April. Gymnogramma Lotta, Lo- Grows aloiig tlic banks of rnountain weii. streaui~a t lieights above eighteen hundred feet.

180

SCIENTIPIC NAJanra.

DESCRIPTION.

GRAMMITIDE~. NotRochlmna

lanuginosa, Qn old walls in and about the city of Funchal, and luxuriant in the old walls at Santa Cruz. During tlie dry sention tlie fronds wither, liut the plants are in season during the monthu ol February and March, anci tlzcn their lemes aro always gieen nnd upright. Nothochlmna M t ~ n ~ ~ tE. m , Unooinmon, but to be found occasionally ai; Cuinpanario and i n the nr. vicinity of Msgdalena.

Dcsv.

HYJ~ENOPIIYLLE~F,. EI'ne cnop A y llthln Tun- ICnown familinrly as tlie Tunbridge filxny fcrn. Glrom~iri r;hadymarsh b~idgc?tsc,81n. lands betweon tlio elevntions of tlirce tliousancl LLIIC~four thouuand fiel;, being 11otal)ly luxuriant in f i e neighbourhoods of Boa Ventura and S. Viconto. ~YCOI>OI)IA 011~3.

Lyc~potliiun complunntum, Xarely ii>uiid,nnd thon only in tlic vicinity o f S. Vicoiite and of EnL, cumondn. flctaginc l l a denticulata, Abundnnt in dninp places of thc Iiiglicr regioris, uiiil e~peciallyin LinlZ. tlie neighbourl~oi~rls of S. Antouio d u Scrra nncl Camacha. 181

ANALPHABETICAL LIST OF FERNS Gnow~aaIN MADEIRAConti7zzcecl. ECIENTIFIC NA~IE.

DBSCRIPTION.

b'eluginella fiaussianu, A. Found along the li:~nBsof iiplniid rrtreams a n ~ou l damp boiilders iu Br. the viciiiity of t l ~ Rib. e 8. Luzia. Lycopodizcn~ siibercctu?)~, Seen frequently along the banlrs of Ribeiro Frio, iii tlie ncigliboiirLowe. hood of the Lamaçeiros watercourse.

OPHIOGLOSSACE~. Opl~ioglouszc~?~ lusilanicu~n, Rare, and growing only af;S. Boqiie anil Alegria. (Tliis varicty is L. Angliciscd " addei's tongue.'>)

POLYPODIBIE. Poly1~odiunz(Pl~ego~~te~ia) Itsre, aiid lieciiliar to tlie islancl. drc-paitum, Hooli. Poriild liixuriant only iri the vicinity of Seixal, S. Vicente, snd Ribcira do Inferiio. I'olypocZiu9n vz~Zga?.e, L. Cominoii to ovcry locnlity.

PTERIDEB. Adiuntum Qzpillus Ve~zeris, Rnowii as (annd similar to Americali) L. "maiden-liair," ancl nb~ri~dunt ncnr water.falls aucl i n sliacly ravines, ivhere i t frequently attains R lieight oof two feet. A d i u n tum ?.en~yool.me, I<nomn to thc natives as Feto ?,eLIETcrit. dondo, nud growing on roclts and in shady ravines of the liiglilancls. 182

ANALPIUBETIOAL LISTOP FERNS GROVING IN MADEIRACo~aclzded. SCIENTIFIC NAME.

DEECR~PTION.

Cheilanthesfragrans, Webb On olcl malls in and aboul Funclial, ancl Berth. Santa Cruz, and Campanario. Tlie fronds wither duriiriilg thc clry months. ICnowa t o thc English as "the hard Lomavin Spl'ca?at,Desv. fern," and to 'tlie Madeirai~sas ''feio de pente;" i f flourislies in the higlilaucls. Pteris ay7~iliizn,Liiln. Clon~moii (fiteia, native liame; common bralce, familiar ~iaine). Abundailt iii sliacly ravines. Aeris argula, Ait.

SOOLOP~NDRI~~. Xcolopeiaclrittm vuzgarc, Sw. Xare (Zinguu cervir~a,rintive nainc; liart's-toiig~ic, ftzfainilia' iinrnc). Fouiid iieitr dripping wator.

CEEAPTER X X I I MOSSES

ô$ee0 peciiIías to Snabeís8,-There are iuaily beautif~ll mosE;es that cover the rougli boulders aiid carpet the woodlaiid glades at varions altitudes, aiid the wiitcr has gatl-iered specimeils such as he has iiever foiiiid os lieard of as existiilg in aiiy other part of t1.1e world. Ainong the more importaiit works co~is~ilted by him iii the course of liis compilatioii of tlie ilanies of BIadeiraii mosses are s rel~riat from the edition of Godmau's boolc, " ~ h eNotural EIistory of tlie Azoies " (published by Vali Voorst, 1870), aiid " The L i s t of Plaiits fbund iii Madeira " iii M Y ~ . Bowdich's " Botailical Iiidcx" to hei husbaiid's valuablo treatise, " Exciirsioiis iii Madeira aiid Poito Saiito" (l~ublislied by Geosge B. Whittalcer, Londoii, 1825). From thesc works thc wiitei has derived coilsiderable of his iiiforrnatioii coiiceriling the identity of tlie discovcrers of vaiioirs vaiieties. Tlie liames of these discov184

erers will bo foniid iiz abbreviation appeiided to the names of their respective discoveries, which are listed as follows :List of Mosses.-TI~ Moss~so~ MADEIRA. Amblystegium, Schimp. Mudere~zse. Varium, Beauv. riparium, Linn. An~ctangium,Schw. compactzcnz, Schleich. angustijolitizlm. Antitrichia, Brid. cc~rtipelzd~tla, Linn. Astrodontium, Scliw. canarbtse, Scllw. Atrichum, Beauv. t~~x(;lulatunt, Linn. Bartramia, I-Ierlw. rigicla, De Notnris. fontunn, Linn. Vebbii. slricia, Brid. Bryum, Dill. noturisii. alph~um,Linn. jtdacec~m,Schrad. atropurpz~rez~m,Web. et hlollr. 11.-10

Bryum, Dill. canurielzse, Brid. psez~dotripztetrzon, Hedw. ' capilkcre, Linn. obovatuvz. Campylopus, B rid. .ilatroflezus, Hedw. frugliiis, Dicks. azoriczu. Ceratiodon, Brid. ~ ~ t ~ q ~ ~ Linn. rezcs, Gryphcea, Mohr. None. Ctenidium, Schimp. Bertl~elotia~zum. Dicranum, Hedw. Scottia~zt~~~z, Turn. Diphiscium, Mohr. joEosum, Liiin. Entosthodon, Schw. tenzpletoni, Schw. Epipterygium, Lindb, toxeri, Grev, 186

Cbe 'Ilanb of tbe Wine

Fabronia, Raddi. pusillu, Raddi. Fissidens, Hedw. serrz~btus,Brid. c~sphenioidcs,Swartz. pallidicaz~Ss. riridzdtts, Sw. Eontinalis, Dill. u?itipyreticu, Linn. Eunaria, Schreb. hygro?net.iicu,Hedw. fo~tta~zesii, Schtv. Grimrnia, Ehrh. t?-ic?~opkylZu, Grev. acicuku~is,Linn. ounescens, Dill. Glyphomitrium, Brid, pz~lui~zu~o. polphyllum, Dicks. Hedwjgia, Elirh. cil,iutn, Dicka. Homalia, Brid. sztbreota. Hookeria, Srn. Zzcce7is) Linn. Zcefevirens, I-Iook. et Tayl.

Hylocomium, Schimp.? Hypnum, Dill. conjertum, Dicka. sz~rrectum. tenellum, Dicks. teesdalii or te?ze~*i&. pzw~ilztm,Wils. swurtzii, Turn. prlelongunz, Dill. lonyirostre, vur. Du~iíei imollt. illeccbra, Linn. sericeum, Linn. ?~zundoni. pluniouum, Sw. viv~~lure, Bruch et Schimp. Lepidopilum, Brid. fo?zta?zztnt. Leptodon, Nohr. None. Lescuria, Schimp. None. Leucobryum, IIampe. jun2cperoidezc~n,Brid, Leucodon, Schw. scitwoides, Linn: 180

Mnium, Linn. t~~zd~blutza?~, Hedw. ufine, Blarid. rostrniz~m,Sohrad. Myurium, Schimp. I~ebriclun~7~z, Schimp. Neckera, Hedw. orspc~,Linn. i~ztern~eclia, Brid. Orthotrichum, Hedw. tenellzcm, Bruch. vittutunq or Ulotn calvescens, Wils. Palyteichum, Dill. piliferu~n,Schrew. jumnpe~i~ztcm, Willd. com~nt~ne, Linn. fo~nzoszm,Hedw. Physcomitrium, Brid. Norie. Plagioti-ecium, Bruch. sylvut.icu~n,Linn. Pleurozium, Sullivant. None. Pogonatuin, Beauv. aloicles, Hedw. na?zurn, Solireb.

Pterogonium, Sw. gracile, Hedm. Pterygynandrum, Hedw. None. Rhabdoweisia, Schimp. EZ~YUZI)&S. Rhamphidium. pz~rptwutz~m. Sciaromium. sp.iltosu7n. pro lisz~n~. setigerz~gn. Sematophyllum. at~ricomzçnt. Sphagnum, Dill. compactzcrn, Brid. Stereodon, Brid. czy~essifoi~me, Linn. cmzuriense. Thamnium, Schimp. alopeczaum, Linn. Thuidium, Schimp. tunturisci~tz~?~z, Hedw. mi~zztlulzt~n, Hedw. Tortula, Hedw. bu~bz~loidcs, Brid. brac/tydowtia, Mull. 187

Cbe Znnb of tke Wlne THEMOSSES01i' MADEIRA- Concluded. Tortula, Hedm. cirrifo lia. fccllcilc, Hedw. nhzlrnlis, Hed w. ucu.mz'nata, Sw. ehloronotos, Xcliultz.

Weissia, Hedw. co~~troversn, Hedw. reJle.z.u,Brid. ve~ticellata,Schw.

Part bl L

Gbe 1VLite nitb tbe Uí'lfite

CI3APTER X X I I I

ntrobtictfoit o l tbe Wftte,-Sliortly

after the settlemeiit of Madeira tlie viiie was broilght froiii Crete, bizt it was ilot iiiltil the sixteeiitli ceiitnry tliat tlie grape was ctiltivated to aiiy great exteiit. Tlie laigest ahipmeiits of viiie froin Madeira wcre made betweeii thc years 1788 aiid 1825. Tho followiiig table (liage 194) will serve to illnstrate tlie progress íl.iid 11istoi.y of the wiae product iii Madeira. The oldest a ~ i dIargest wiile-shippi~~g lionse in Madeira, is that of Mcssrs. Cossart, Gordoli I% Co., establishcd iii tlio yenr 1746 by Mr. Francis Newton. History of Good Wine as shown in the Life Work of Francis Mewton.-This yo~iriggeiitlcmail startcd iii biisincss for himself niider tho most trying aiid adverse ciicnmr;ta~~ces, IOr lie was ziiifnmiliar with tlie Iaiignage arid witli the lawa and CIIStoms, aiid he liad tlio i11 will oP tlie coinmiiiiity 103

FAG-SIMILE OF AN OLD BILL OF UDING. *r*-

swimsm -.i-.

m* r*=a>u
or loo P8r.r s o - r u x a

r.

omrr

r..

500

m.rr

r o l anni-

zppcd. by thc G r n of God. in gmd Oíder. md wacli-condiri ~ o I ah d h, p a o ~ ,in aad u p o &c g d Ship, cùlg

d, by &,&p

whumf t M a k , mdtr God. for Ais prdcric

mro*,

VINE-GROWING

1N T H E I N T E R I O R .

for a loiig time becaiise he was a P~.otestaat,and tlierefore, iii the eyes of tlie Madeira11 Romaiiist, a l~eretic. But, witli iiidoinitable eiiergy aild perseveraiice, 3Ir. Newton fought every obstacle iiiitil lie overcaine it. EIis first rnissioil was to iinprove t l ~ prodrict, e ~.vhich,a t tlie timc of his arrival, was vcry large, biit of inferior quality, beiilg mcrely t l ~ eferineiitecl grape jiiice witli little or no trezltmeilt. By liis eflorts tlie wiiie was improvecl, for 116 built warehoiises, piii; iii elaborate appliaiices for tl-ie mai~nfactureof a higher grade of wiiie, and employed slcilled wiile-malress to iiistruct tlic iiatives iii tlie proper haiidling of tlic prodiict of the vim. As tiine ~veiitoii thc followiiig pari;aers were talren iiito tlie 8rm: Messrs. Speiico, Gordoli, Miirdocl~,Joliiistoii, Scott, and Cossart. When the Wine first became Famous,-The iinprovement iii thc m-ine began to attiact general attention, alid it waa not loi-ig bcí'0i.e the psice of tlie best yrodnct merited ai1 advaiice of fi.0111 twenty poiiiids to forty-five 1)oiiiids pela pipc. Loiidoii became a heavy consumer, aiid coiitiiiciit~~1 cities boiight largely. When the Demand exoeeded the Supp1y.-The followiiig extiaot frorn a Ictter seiit by ~ e w i o n , 197

Glbe Zanb of tbe 'Q;(Rfne ~ o ~ d o n Mivdoch ,' & Co., to the partnei; Mr. Newtoil, who was in Loridoil in behalf of his biisiness diiring tlie wiilter of 1801, may be of iiiterest ais serving to sliow the extraordinary demaad tl-iat there was for the wiiles of Madeira at the begiililii~gof the iiiiieteenth centiiry. fr071~ Newton, Go~*do?z, M u r d o c l i & co., Mude+ch, t o A.nn.eis Netuto~a,London, 20 Jn?z'16ary, 1810.

E ~ t r a c f~onz t a Letter

" There are not one hundred pipes of

old zuine in tlie hnnds of tlie natives f o i sale. The exporte of tlie year 1800 cxceeded a11 previous exports, being upwards of seventeen thousnnd pipes, and, should tlie demand for our mine incrense ns much as it lias done for some years, the island \vil1 not be nble to supply tlie requisite quanlity!'

Iiidia also becaine a henvy coilsiimer of Madeirai1 vintagcs. I n the year 1800 Newton, G.oi.doii, Miwdoc11 SG 60. received the followii-ig ordess fio111 Bombay alone, ordered by tlie fo1lowing %rms:Dec. 6, 1799 Mar. 19, 1800 Aug. 2, 1800 Total

. . . .

500 pipes, Law, Bruce & Co.

. . . . 300 pipes, David Scott Si; Co. . . . . 250 pipes, Forbes, Smith Si; Co. . . . , . . 1,050 pipes. 198

FAC-SIMILE OF AN OLD BILL OF LADINO. IHEAYI SIOPWEWT. COYPLETIWO DADSe FO'O. 600 P I E S roo AMLIIIO*-l

ipped hy the Gracc of God, in good Order. nnd aell-condi g G o r h ~and , Cotnpany. in aad u p n tbe good Ship, d$c! t

-p

a c - / L 4. # @'~-aa o* a

h

~

d

whcreof ir MaRer, under Gd, for this preíeot ~ o y a g c # ? J a a n d y of Funcdd, ~ and by~ Goda Gnce ~ bound for 57-

,

~~- i,o.. 2a dd~4, dd

AdS

(2

~a&a TE£

.&

~~~e and Avera a-fiomed. In Witnefi whcrcof the MafferorPurícr of the íai Sbip hath ofiirmed to f ~ i l l s of ~ a d .g, ai1 ofthis Tenor aud D te; theone of which Bills bcing acc~>mpli&cd,thc o t h c r y to ítand mid. And r good Sbip te o Ln hcr búrcd Port in Jafety. AMEM. h t e d in d<#aéiro&~&&.~&

1 6 %

~QYZLL

--

'

~

~

FAC-SIMILE OF AFi

-

s~~$g~m

JY#O&!L?/.~@A daJ-

-P

OLD BILL OF LADING.

iWINE BUPPUED TO THE NAYYJ

n * m - í /I MIm

rhc Gra

dn Order, snd upon and wd-conditiar,ed, ihe p d Ship, bcallcd y NM~OR. ths

m

Y~mJr&zce/ forthii prdrni !Joyige,

~~~~~~~-

thc Road af Funcbaf, and by God's Gracc b-d

Clne Ulne anb tbe Wfne A i ~ o t h elarge ~ order whicli stsnds oii their boolcs reads as follows :B o m ViZEam fliwolt's Lotter, datecl East A~izdia Eozcse, 128 JuZy, 1809. " Three hundred and tliirty pipes of best Iiidiu Mnrlret Madeira viile. Oiie hundred and twenty pipes best Loudoii Marlcet Madeira. For accotint of tho Eust Indin Coinpniiy and to be sliipt on bonrd their sliips of the season 1800/10."

Aftw oiie liiiildred aiid fifty yeai3s, Cossart, Gordoii & Co. (tlle p~eseatfii.in liame of the osigiiial Newtoii, Gordoii, Mnrdocli & 00.) aro atill, as already statcd, thc Icadii~gwinc-inerchaiits. The Responsible Wine-Werchants of iad de ira.But other respoiisible lioiises that do u coiisi.dcrable brisiiless iii wiiiu-rnakiiig and liandling aro tl-ie followiilg, alpl-iabetically listcd :TVine-~lcrohads. Arauj o C% Heleririques. Miles, ZIenry P. Blandy Bros. c% Co. P g n e 80n, Joliii. Correa, J. A. (Goldeil Gnte). Power, Drury c ' Co. Rodrigiiea & Co., Frailciaco. Cunha, A. P. ICrohii Bros. 6t Co. Vinvn Abcidnrlinm & Xoils. Leacock & Co. Welsh Bros.

Vines and Stores of Cossart, Gordon 8ç CIO.Cossart, Gordoii & Co. owii viiioyards lzcro aiid 201.

therc tliroug11oiit tlie island. Their hcad-q~iarter~ aro ~ i t i i a t e djust oiitside tlie towil, and coinyrise six distiact sete of biiildiiigs,-Estilfa, Serrado, Mnrtins,, Thiago, Aiila, aiid Pateo armazems (~t0i.c~). The Estufa Stores, where the Wines are subjected t o Heat.--'Fhe estufa stores eornprisc a bloclr of X~nildiiigs two stories liigl~, divided iilto four .compai.tineilts. In tlie firet of these commoii wiii(?s are siibjected to a teinperatnre of 140' F.clcrivcd froiil fliics lieatcd witli aiithracitc coalfoi. :il..)out Iwelve weclrs ; iii the aecoild coinpartmciit; wiiics oí' ai1 iiitcrinediate qaality are heatecl to 130" F. Iòr a period of some eiglitceii ~vceks; thc tliird is for snperior wiiles whicli are Irept licfitccl. bctwceii 110° anil 120° P. for the term of oiic-lialf a yenr. The "calor," or fourtli eoiiipartrnciit, is licatcd by the warrntli dcrived frorn tlic ~~ii*ro~iiicIiiig coinpartiileiits. It has a tempei7ature vt~i'yiiigfrom 90° to 100" F. Here are kept tlie higli-gi*ado wines. Tlie reasoli givcii for 1;liiis Iicntiiig ilie wiiie is tliat tlie gerins of fermelitatioii w1iicl.i rcinsiii iii it may be destroyed, nild, morcovcr, tlist tlie wiiio will have izotliiilg to clclay il,~ 1iiaturiilg, so tllat it may be sliippcd iii its 202

secoiid aiid third year withoiit fzirther additioii of spirits. Tlie nse of this estufa i11 Madeira dates from tlic coinmeiicement of t1-ie pieseiit cciltui.y. Tlic great bnllr of the wiiie iiiide~goesa trcatiiici~tsiicli as 11ei.e described before it ia shipped. Diiring tlie pileparatioii of tlic following accoiiiit of the wiiie and its maili~lactiiietlie writci* derived much assistaiice fkom Cossait, Gordoii & Co., i11 Fiiiiclial, and also by rccoiirse to Ecliry Vizetelly's famo~iB book "Madeira aiid ii,y Wii~es." Wine-making Gxapes described.-l'lic followiiig dcscriptions of tlie piiiicipnl liii~dsof wine-malriiig gi.a:lpes in tlie islaiid of Madeira aro qiioted fvom the above-liamed woilc. Verdelho.-"A smnll oval grape, liardly ns largo as LI coffee-berry, wlieri ripe of n ricli goldoli liuo, li111 oS flavoi~i*, anil saccliarine. Tlie leaf of tlio Verclellio lias seven lobos, tlie ~inewso f wliicll are iiol; stroilgly iiiarlrcd ; i L is oB a C ~ P B green, but perí'eotly bald, ancl the two lowest; lobes are very indistinct." Verdelho, nt tlie present time, is tlio priricilinl wiiiomalring grape in the islniid, al lenst two.tliirds beiiig oí' tliis apecies. 203

Gbe Zanb of the U í n e Tinta.-"A

ama11 black Burguudy grape of fine flavour. The leaf of the Tinta has seven lobes, decreasing in size, aiia the siuews are very deep and rounded; the middle lobe is subdivided into two othcrs, both indistinct." The Tinta grapes in smaller vineyards are usually pressed together with the Verdelho and other white grapes. I n tlie larger vineyards where there may be a sufficient quantity of it to make it worth while to be plucked separately, such is done, and a red wine is made which ia called Tinta, from tlie grape. The husks of the grapes are allowed to remain in the mine during the process of fermentation, and iinpart to the wine its deep-red colour and peculiar astringency. This red wine ia much esteemed amongst the natives, and used as a vin ordiq~ui~e, being drunk in its first ar second year ; afker that time it begins to lose its colour and character, and in course of time becomes a tawny-coloured Madeira. Malvazia, or Malmsey. - " Malvazia Candida is a rnediurn-sized grape, of tt rich gold colo~irwhen ripe, and harigs in long, thin, pendulous bunches. The leaf has four veiy deep and roiinded sinews witli two otliers less distinct ; each dentation has a small yellom tip; tlie back of the leaf is as smooth as the upper surface, and is of a deep yellowgreen. Its epithet, 'Candida,' is a corruption of 'Candia,' mbence tliis Malmsey vine wns importid iii the íifteenth century by the Infante Dom Henriqiie!' Malmsey Madeira is a, rich wliite wine, of peculiar bouquet, imparted to the wine by the husks of tlie grape being allowed to remain in the wine during hrmentatioii. I t ia considered one of thc most valuable of the wines of Madeira, 204

Cbe Vine anb the Wfne and eveni when young commanda a high price. The best grapes are grown on rocky soil, and ahould be allowed to rzmain on the vines until they become almost raisins. Thq produce of Malmsey on the island is but small. Bua1.-"A round, straw-coloured grape of medium size, leaf with four of the sinews very deep and sharp, the tmo lower indistinct, the indentations sharp and irregular, the leaf hairy on both sides." Tlie wine made from the Bual grape 'is of delicatè znd mellow character. The Bual is not a common grape, and the wine made from it always commands a high price. Sercia1.-"A round, white grape, the same as the Reisling of the Rhine ; the leaf has four rounded sinews ; the nerves are very strong and by their projections give a coclrled appearance to tlie leaf; it ia a yellow-green and cottony on both sides." This vine will not succecd in a11 places or ~oils. I t ia mostly grown near the aea-coast at Paul do Mar and PonLa do Pargo, two places on the west coaat of the island. Tlie wine is very unpleasant to the palate when new, and requires some eight years to become matured. When old it is considered one of the finest of the wines of Madeira. Malmsey, Sercial, and Bual may be considered as specialLies of Madeira wines, as their pioduction is but small and the wines are sought for only by connoisseurs. Amongst other wine-producing grapes may be mentioned the "Negro Molle," a lnrge, juicy, Islaclr: grape, the Maroto, tlie Tarantrez, the Cnrão de Moga, Malvazia Roxa, Malyazião, the Listrão, the Bastardo, and aomc otliers. AI1 '

207

Ghe ZanB of the W&lline these, however, are usually pressect together with tlie Verdelho species in the making of Madeira mine. Verdelho, t h e King of Wine-Sroducing Grapes.A11 these diiferent kinds of grapes in Madeira, with the exception of the specialties before mentioiied, s~iclias Buul, Tinta, Malmsey, and Sercial, are graduxlly giving way beí'ora the Verdelho, which is wilhout doubt th0 kiug of wineproducing grapes.

Dossart, Gordon & Doa's Book.-Cossart, Goi.do11 s7; CO. publieh a book descriptivc of theii establislimelit, aild by way of describiiig it thcy q ~ ~ o t e a chapter from Hcnry Vizetelly's woik. Wine-makiiig described by Henry Vizeteiiy. Wliile thc writer is fainiliar witli thc plai~t01' Cossart, Gordoii dh Co,, 11e appreeiatca liis uttei. iilcoinpcteiicy to prepare ali acconiit whtch would be equal to that of Mr. Vizetelly. He, tlierefoi.~,reqnotes tlie followiiig froin thc cliaptei~ by &Ir. Vizetelly as republiahed by Cossart, Gordon & Co. The S e r r a d o Stores.-Tlie groiiiid ori which the Serrado stores staud comprises botween four antl five acres, with armtizeins of a single story occupying three of its sides, tlio cooperage beiiig on tlie fourth. Here we observed cuslru being made in precisely tlie same fashion as is fullowcd at Jsrez, with the exception, perhaps, that tlie adze wliich tligi 208

C'he ULite anb tbe Ulllne" men handle so dexterously is a trifle heavier and clumsier than the one used by their Jerez brethren. Coopers.-The Funchal coopers mork by the piece, and each pipe, which is certainly a well-made article, costs something like a couple of pounds. Round about the cooperage mere piles of American oak stares, already trimmed or in the rough, mhile in the centre of the plot of ground mere sheds in wliich the caslrs are measured, branded, scalded, and steamed, togetlier with a couple of large tanks. The vacant space betmeen the slieds and the stores is occupied with rows of casks of various sizes, fresh from the cooperage, and undergoing a seasoning with mater. When this is completed the caeks are transferred to tlie armazem de Avinhar, there to be filled with common mine, which remains in them for two or tliree months. In these stores there are always iii use for tliis piii3pose from two hundred to three liundred pipes of mine, which after frequent employment is no longer suitable, and is distilled into spirit. I n tlie rear of the cooperage is a dried-iip watercourse, a steep ravine some forty feet deep, mhich intersects the town of Funchal, and i8 mostly bordered by an avenne of shady plane-trees. The Season for a Freshet.-During winter the mater rushes down liere from tlic mountains,' bringing mith it huge boulders fully a ton i11 weight, and smeeping away whatever it encounters in its progress. T h e Flood of 1803.-In tlie year 1803 the rushing torrent overflowed the steep banks of the ravine, carrying 1

11,-11

Chapter XVII., A Freshet. 209

Gbe Zanb of tbe Wirte nway a store of Cosssrt, Gordon dZ Co.'s, which had been erected at tlle verge, together witli severa1 hundred ~ i p e sof wiiie, a11 of wliich were lost. The same flood swept away tlie British consulate (some distance lower down) and a church, not to speak of other damage.' Shade for t h e Labourers.-AI1 tlie unoccupied ground nt these Serrado stores is planted witli vines trained on corridors, interspersed Iiere and tliere with a mango, fig, or custard-apple tree, Trelliseci vines, moreover, cover in a11 tlie walks in fiont of tlie various stores, enabling the men employed in tlieiri to be always under sliade. Tlie first store which we visited-n long narrow building some thiee hundred fect in Iengtli, with squnre grated openiugs along its front to allow of thc frec adiuission of air-is capnble of holding six hundred pipcs, iri triple rows of two t i e r ~exch. I t is used for receiviiig " vinlio em mosto," or newly-made wine. Scarlet Germiums.-Soarlet gerauiumsaal-iout a mau's lieight are trnined a11 over its front, and under t h e broad canopy of trollised vinea-stretching from tlie roof of the store $0 that of tlie oj)posite shed-empty caslrs waiting to be <'winecl " aro stowed away. W h e n Lhe Produce of a Vineyard is purchased.I t is a cornmoii prnclice wibli tlio Madeira wine-sliippers to poroliase tlie 1)rod110e of a viiieyard bcfore the grnpes are presscd, i11 wliicli caso tliey eitlier send some 'one cspecially, or appoint nil ageiil rosicling in .llie localily, to see that the - I

a

0li:q)t;er XVTI., Waicr-ripolit;niicl Flood o£ 1803. Cl-inptcrXIX., Gcrnliium. 210

Cbe Une anb t'he Ufne grapes are not gathered until they are ripe, that tlie work iii the lagar1 is properly done, and to arrange for the transport of the "mosto" to their Funchal wine-stores. There t h e " mosto " contiuues fermenting, mith the bung-bole of cach cask simply covered ovei with a leaf, generally until tlie middle of Noveinber. Either before or after the fermentation a smal1 quantity of brandy is added, varying in quantity according to the quality of the " mosto," but seldom exceeding three per cent. Raoking and Lotting of Wine.-When the wine has thorouglily cleared itself, it is racked and lotted according to ita qunlity, and czftertvards forwarded to tlie "estufa" or l-ieating mngazirie. [ h specinlty with regard to the wines of Madeira of wliich tbe writer has previously sp~ken.~] 'Eining f o r the P a t e o Stores.-In face of the store wliere tlie mosto is received is a store for braudy ; and thence we proceed uncler the vine-covered corriclors to other stores containiiig wiiies a year old, just arrived from thc "estufa," -wincs whicli, after liaving received n further modicum of spirit (varying from ona to three gallons per pipe), were uiidergoing raclring and fiiiing preparatory to being passed on to tlio Patco stores of tlie iirm. There they mil1 remain in butts bolding four liundred gallons each, until fully matured for ahipment. It sliould be noted that the mosto is fermented aiid the wine lieated, racked, and passed from one store to Wiilc-press. Qli8 chnpter, jocted to Eeat. 2

T110 E~tiif.~, Btores, mhere

213

tlio wines are sub-

Cbe Zanb of tbe 7NILite ailother in mliat are termed canteiro or scantling pipes, each holding one hunrlreíl aiid thirty gallons, old wiiie measure. . W h e r e the Sun is used instead o£ t h e Estufa.The artificially-heated estufas are used only by the 1%-er sliipping liouses, wlio, Iioweve'i,, lieat wine in them for ollier shippers nt a stnteil rate. Otliers accomplish tlie desii-ed object by placing tlieir wiiies in a kiiid of glass house, mhere they remnin exposed to the full lieat of the siin. I n tlie daytime a temperatiire of fiorn 120" to 130' I?. is seciired, wliicli, homever, becomes considerably lomered during tlie night, a circun~atancewliich is regarded by many as detrimentnl to the development of tlie wine. I n tlie country districte where estufas iii no forrn exist, the liolders of wine lace tlie butts oat in t'tie open nir iu favo~irablepositions to secure the full inflrience of the suii's rays. W i n e s e n t on a Sea Voyage t o Mature.-Tlie practice prevalent for mauy years past of sending Madeira o11 a voynge to tlie East or West Indies and homc agaiii is simply n varidion of tiiis metliod of rnnturiug tlie wine by suljectiug it to a liigh temperutiire, tlie hext ivliicli it eiicounters in tliese latitudes wlien sliut 11p in tlie sliip's Iiold being necessarily very great. Precautions against Leakage under Heat.-In the estufas I ani now describing-mhich, iP packecl full, are capable of heatiug one tliousand six liuiidred pipes of wine at one time-tlie pipes aro placed on end iii staclrs of four, with smnller casks on the top of tIiein, a iini*rowgaiigwny being left between the diffcreiit staclrs to d m i t of tlie pnssage of a man for the purpose of ascertainiiig tlint tlie casks do not 214

..

leiblc, when subjected to great hcat they are naturally inclincd to do. A hole aboiit tlie sixtl~of an inch in diameter lias been4previously bored in the bung of each pipe to allom tlio 1101 vnponr to escape, otherwise the pipe vould burst. As L i is, tho cnslrs not unfrequently leak, as we perceive by iiurnerous dull pntclics in various parts of the floor, rendering it iieccssai-y for tlic different comparttnents of tlie estufa to be iiisj)ected once during the dnytime and oiice during the night, iii order thnt niiy inishap of tliis kind mny at once be rectified. The Risky Proceeding of Tappilig Wine in AirTight Cornp&rtments.-Eac compartment is provided with double foldiiig-doors, and after it is filled with mine the iiiiior doura ara coaled ovcr uritli lime, so as to close up any cliniico npcrlurcs. When it is necessary to enter tlie estufa, tlio OII(;C~doors anly are opened, and a small trap in the inner 11001~ia pushctl bnck to allow of tlie eritrance of the man in clin~go,wlio passes between tlie various ~tacksof casks, tappiiig Ilioiri olie nfter tlio otlier to satisfy himself that no leakago is goiirg oii. 0 n coming oiit of the estufa, after a stay of ti, Sul1 liour, 110 iiistaiitly wraps himself in a blanket, drinks a ~urilblcrf~il OS wiiia, aiid then shuts himself up in a closet, i i i l o \vliich 110 coo1 air peiietrates, lirovided for the purpose. Mcssrs. Cossnr~,'Gordon St Co. usually placc their wines in lho ostuflx (Iuriiig tiie inontlis o£ January and February, mhich fitlmiL8of tlieir rernovnl to other stores before the next vintage aominences. of Wine through Evaporati0n.-During the lima t l i ~ yare tlie estnftt they dirninisli some ten or fifteen F~~celit. t h r o ~ g htio evaporntion of their aqueous parts. 217

T h e Counting-House.-There still remain the Pateo stores to be noticed. These are sitiiate in the rear of the countirighouse of the firm, where a11 the books and papers relafing to its transactions since its first establislimeat are carefully l~reservcd. T h e P a t e o Stores, where Certain Specialties a r e kept.-Passing beneath an archwg and across a nnrrow court planted with flowers, niiiong wliich are geraniuiiis trniiied leve1 with the first-floor windows, Jve enter n stnnll store, forming a kind of anteroom to the stores which follow. The first of these contains wines in butts holding fonr pipcs ench, in perfect condition for shipment, and only needing to be drawn off. IIere we tasted a few specialties, includilig some Branco secco, made exclusively from the " verdellio" species of grnpe, whicli, liaving been perfectly fermentctl, poasessed a11 the qualities of a reinarlrably fine dry Madeirit ; also some Sercial from Ponta do Pargo, of vintage 1866, exceedingly clry arid clean-tasting, and sliglitly pale. W h e r e t h e Choice Wines a r e stored.-In the sLortr above were nines of different qualities aiid ages, incliidiii~ some Palhetinho, ar straw-coloured wine, delicate in flavo~ii. aud with a fine bouquet ; also severa1 still paler wines, goiiit; under tlie Yankee cognomeii of Rainwater Madeira, o11 nccouiii, of tiioir i.einarkable softnees nnd delicacy. Hero also woi30 stored a viritage wine of 1863,-a Vinho do Sol, as it WLIH called, from its hnving leeii inatured by exposiire to tlie suii, and never having passed through the estufa,-and finnlly IL pnle, delicnte Malmsey, of Lhe preceding year's vintage, wiLh a highly developed bouquet, whicli promised to become a wiiio of a singularly clioice character.. 218

Ube Uíne anb tlbe TWline The Oldest Wines.-IR the armazem de Vinhos Velhiasimos-the ground-floor range of building on the southern side of* the courtyard-mere some large butts containing reserve wine of great age aiid numerous soleraa, including a Cama de Lobos, the origin of whicli dates back to 1844-a deep-coloured, powerful wine of fine high flavour, replenished from time to time by wine from the bastardo variety of grape. A Siio Martinho solera, dnting from tlie year 1842, was a soft choice wine witli fine Isouquet, mhile a Bual aolera going back to the year 1832 proved remarkably delicate in flavour. There were also a couple of Malmsey soleras founded respectively in the years 1835 and 1850, tlie formes of wliicli liad a11 the qualities of a choice liqueur; togetlier with a Verdelho vintage wine of the year 1851 whicli Iiad never been exposed to artificial heat: a sound mellow wine of the higliest character. Flavouring a n d Colouring Wines of Inferior Quality. -At tlie end of chia solera store is a store containing Surdo, or sweet wine, and Vinho Concertado, or boilecl mosto, tliinned by the addition of some ordiaary wine, and whicli, like tlie Jerez vino dulce and vino de color, are used for flavouring nnd colouring mines of inferior quality. Light, Tasty, Moderate-Priced Wine.-Proceeding through the aiched passage leading into the litlle garden, planted with bananas, rose-trees, and geraniums, nnd having vines trained in corridors over tlie walks, we carne upon another store containing wines of later vintages from tlie north side of the island, wliicli are light aiid agreeable to drírik, and are shipped at whah appears to be n very moderate price. 21O

CHAPTER XXIV

8bbif0 ,-Wheii

diseovered the islanù coiitaiiiecl iio qiiadrzipeds,l Isiit a male alid feniale rabbit, wliieh were bionght t;hereto, l i t t e ~ doii the voyage, and their offspring wheii liberatcd oii tlie islaiid brecl so rapidly that it was b ~ i ta couple of years ei.e many, maiiy tlioiisaiids o£ rabbits conrsed through the fields aiid niiderbriisli. Wild Animais.-Deserta Graiide? the largest islaiid of tlle Deserta groiip, aboilnds in game, siicli as wild goats, wild rabbits (both originally intiodziced), aiid birds. Permissiou to hiiiit can sornetiines be obtaiiied by a peisonal applicatioii to tlle owilci3oE Deserta Graiide, wlio resides in FzziichaI, aiid to ~ v l ~ o iitn is possible to get an iiitrodiictioii from either the Americali or the Britisli consul.

a

Cliapter I., The Honeymoou. Chnpter IX., The Dasertas. 223

Cbe Ztnnb of tbe Wtne

rf the l i ~ i i t ~ m aprociires ii leave to shoot at Deserta Grande, i t woiild be well for him t o choose one or two trnsty compaiiioiis for the trip, whicli innst be inade tliitl-ier in a row-boat, as no Crafi cal1 tl-icrc savo w1-iei-i apecially chartered. Tlie writer liad a, Bnieiid who was robbed while lie slept at Deserta Grai-ide, aiid awolre to fiilcl that tlie crew iii bis employ liad dcpai~tedwith t h e boat. I t was by tlic increst cliaiice that lie was 1-esci.cd, altcr tl íbw days of exile, by a passiiig stemier. Aiiotlicr Srieiid wlio started for Deserta Grande iinaccompaiiicd b y friciids was set npoii by liis crcw wicil f ~ oiit ~ r ai; sca. Ey free lise of his fiict~riii~ aiid lists 11e coiitrived to sribdiie bis nssailaiits. 'I'lic roclr-boi~iiclcoast of Deserta Grande coiil i l i ~ maiiy l~ iiilets aiid caveriis, wliich are still tlle hnziiit~OS ~ c í ~ l ~ . Uattle ~aising.--After cattle were ii~trodiiccd iiilo 3i\Ti~deii~a tlic raisiiig o i oxcii bccame a cliief iiidust~y,as thcy litlvc always beeii iised tliere h r tlic oonvoyaiicc of veliiclesl iii tlie place of liorscs, Tliey are short, stoclrily biiilt animds Clit~ptorV.,Tho Carro. 224

T H E OXEN A R E GUIDED B Y THONGS.

ATTACHED TO THEIR

HOHNS

aiid aro well breù. Tliey are giiided by rneans of a leathar Ihong attaclied to eitlier hol-li, which is madc selisitive b y a process of tapping. From the tinie tliat thi? llorli~sproiit uritil they are fiilly growii tliey are tapl~edfi.eq~leiltlyb y a stick, wliicli lrceps them loose and sore to tlie touch. Tlic iiiillr oP thc goats is alinost uiii~ersallydiriiik by tlle i~atives,as it is quite tastef~iland popiilarly colisidercd 1rioi.e iititritioiis than the milk of the com. Tlic cows yield very little milk, and that of ali iiidiETei'cnt cliiality, wliich is doubtless owiiig to tlic dcartli ol' grass. As is elsewhere sllown, pigs are tlie pets of tlie couiitry-folk aild are liighly prizcd. hlthough the milk is indiffereiit, ilie beol' is vcry good, aiid its fair qi~alityis al,tribiitcS to tlic floral food of which the cattle to bc ~lailglitcrcdpartalcc, for, althoiigli giass is ii(Aui.ct?, gc~aiiiiimsare so l~le~tifiil tliat geraiiiamfeil bccf i e loolced for iii tho markets.' Beests of Burden.-Doiilreys aiid small burros ctui be liirccl. for a11 expeditioii at fsom fotisteeii --

--

' Cliapter VI., Marlcet Value of

Commoclities. I n Chapter XX., Trees, tlie juice of the papam-fruit is desciibed as posseesing tlie remnrkthle property of making tough meat tender. 227

Cbe Zanb of tbe Ilr(lltne liunclrcd to sixteeil hzindred reis per day, wliich l)riice iiicliicles the services of ali atteiidaiit, wlio n~iiei;liceds accoinpany his atoc11: in trade. Iii gciieral 1180 tlic paic1c-allirna1s are o.verlade~i,o ~ e r worlcccl, iii~nicrcifiillybeateii, aild geilerally malt,rcntcù. Tliis is tlie case, as a riile, '' more's the pity," iii inoiilt; soiitherii aild tropical coaiitries. Tlic iiutioiial a i ~ diiiteriiatioilal societies for the lwcvoiit.ioii cif crzielty t o aiiimals are iiow making r ~ ~ lstriùes ~ i d towards estalslishing brailches iii the 1nos.l; i.c?inotc coziiitries a i ~ dlaces. Worsos and their Care.-The wietched-loolcing 1)nclc-t~iiililals, tlie donkeys and the burros, fiiriiish LL ~t;rilti u g contrast; t o the well-groomecl oxeii aiid i,lio Ai1:~l)iaiiliorscs i ~ s c di11 tlzc livery-stables for ridiiig l)iii~l~oses, of wliich the greatest care is t:dcc!ri. Oiic cai1 ncver hire a liorse iiiiless 11e be accoiiil):~nic(lh y an atteiidailt, who riias aloi~gside 011 (i~ot.T l i i ~ attelidailt is dctailed to keep giia1.d ovc:iai,lio i-iclci*aiid t o sec that lie does iiot urge tha Iiorrsc to too gi-eat a spced ~ioi.iii aiiy way ~1:~11r(:at it. IIc carrics i11 I-iis liaiid a horse's tail ni,i,nelictl t o a, sliort sticlr, sild 11e employs this as tl, wliiijlç wlioi.ewit1i t o brnsh a v a y the Ries that aliglil; 11pon tlio liorae. 228

Wheii the horse attains too great a speed for the atteiidant to keep "11 "tli comfortably, lle fiequeiltly resorts t o tlie steed's o m flowing tail, t o wliich he cliiigs firinly while lie deftly avoids tlie aaiinal's lieels. This actioii would seem to coiitredict liis owii theory regardiilg hiimaile rnetliods t o be iised with the steed i-tiider bis cliarge. A distiiictioil, however, eppears to be drawii here Isetweeii tlie criielty wl~ichproceeds from thc owiier or tlie employee of tlie owner of t11e animal aiid, on tlie otlier liaiid, that which inight be practised by an ontsider. Eiiglisli ladies ride a great deal, and it is the fashioii among tliein to wear, iii place of tlie regi-tlatioii ridiilg-liabit of E11glaiid, a long, loose skirt, made of soine ineterial wliicli is light iii weight aiid iii coloiir. Tliis article of apparel is doriiied alld doffed i11 l~ilblicili 5 most iinconcenied maniicr. Iildeed, it is startliiig to see a lady disinount iii n ci-owded thoroiighiare, looseii l-iei belt, let her skirt drop, and step forth froin its folds iiiiblushii~gly. Tlie 011-loolriilg Aiig1o-Saxon, whose pride it is to boast of tlie superior aiid innate inodesty of l-iis coiziitrywoineil, is relieved to fina that the discardod gai-inent is ali extra overskirt, and that 229

its absence still leaves its late wearer respectably clothed in a f~lllcostumc.

BE HIRED

. .

Reis.

I n Funchal nnd vicinity, per hour 400 1,000 To S. Roque or S. Martiriho aud retwn To Camacha . . . . . . . . . 1,300 To Camacha and return . . . . . 1,800 To Poizo . . . . . . . . . . . 1,700 To Poizo nnd return . . . . . . . 2,400 ToCuboGir8oandret~irri. . . . . 2,500 To Pico do Areeiro arid return . . . 3,000 To Santa Crua . . . . . . . . . 2,300 To Santa Cruz and returii . . . . . 3,200 To Mrichico . . . . . . . . . . 3,000 To Machico and ieturn . . . . . . 4,000, To Jardim da Serra arid return . . . 2,700 To Ribeiro Frio and return . . . . 2,700 Per day . . . . . . . . . . . 2,400 Per week . . . . . . . . . . 8,000 Per month . . . . . . . . . . .33,000

.

Occasioilally sliglltly cliesper rates tl~ailtho above cati be fo'onild, biit iildiffereilce is recommended, and time is iuxessary foi the secnriilg of a baigaiii, 230

Wool-Growing.-Sheep are lierded iri tl-ie hilly coni-itry i-iear Fiiiichal ; biit, while wool-growing lias bccoine a iniiior industry, miittoi-i is not much eateii, bciiig toiigli aiid ratlier tasteless. The Domestie Fow1s.-It miglit be here meiitioiied tliat tl-ie various domestic fowlsl l-iavebeei-i iiitrodiiced, tliough this statemeiit could bc made morc propcrly iii t11e chaptcr oii Oriiithology. D~icksaild geese wsddle aboiit iii tl-ie rippliiig ribeiros ; chickeiis roost in the hoiises of the poor towi~sfollca t iiiglit, aiid iii the daytime are tetl-iored oii thc higliway by a string tied to oiie leg and attached t o the othcr eiid to a stalce driveii iiito a crevice iii tlie cobble pavemeiit. Turkey-Time.-Tarkeys are iiot miich kept iii the towiis, but are di.ive1-i tliither iii flocks iii the early moriiiiig. Tlie hoiir of tl-ieir adveilt iii the metropolis miglit be alIiided to as tiirkey-time ; for tlicy aic drivcii ili grcat iiiiinbers t1iroiigl-i the t;trccts, wlierc tlicy are offcred for sale by the steiitoriaii voices of their driveis. Wheii a woiild-be l ~ ~ c l i a sapl~ears ci a t a doo11or wiiidow aiid points

' Chaptor VI., Marlret Vnlue

of Commodities; Chapter XVI., Egg Export, M A D ~ T RINA1898, 11.-12

233

Cbe LZLanb of the IWlllite n fisigcr at, mel mnkes ai1 oKer that is acccptable foi., LZ ccrtaill 13ird, tllere is a 'scramble aiid iiiiicli tnrlícy-gobbliilg rliitil t11e selected victim is cazight. Tlieii its iieclr is wruiig aiid it is liaiidad ovei. to tlic buyei.. Business Hourr;.-Bu~iilesshoiirsl in Fuilcl-ial begiii early iii tlie moi'iliilg, bcfore tlie roastiilg smi h:ls riscil higli eilorigh to glower with its pcigl)endioulai.mid-day rays npoii tlle islaiiders. To sec Llir: peol-ilc af; their ùusiest one inust be ~11) a11d 011 the ~UC~LCB by siiiirise, at wliicli time aild placc thi*cilzgsof i~ntivcboats arrivo crowded witli co111it;i.y-pcoplc, who have come by sea from coast villagcs iicar nilcl reinote to do businesa witli Zdic tow.ilafollc. By íive o'cloclr i n tlie moi*iiiiigtlle maskets are crowclcd, and brryiiig, selliiig, quari'elliiig, aiid yclliiig ni.e tlie principal f e a t ~ ~ r to e s be observed aild licaid. Slaughlier-Houses,-Tlic slanghter-lioiises also t~,rcopoii at; tliis carly lioizi*,aiid, as tliesc are inaiiy ~ u &estublisl~ineiitsiii the town, oiie is

I

ÇIlinpLor XVI., Gold-linked Gliaias

08 (jurrency ; S ~ Commerce. Q 234

s8

Snveqtrqents and

A B U T C H E R AND H I S VICTIM.

T H E S L A C K O F BUSINESS.

co-iistai~tly being rciiiiiided of tlie fact wllen oiit for ai1 early inoriliiig's stroll. Wild-lookiilg slieel), oxen, aiid pigs are coutiii~idlybeiiig driveri by or ii-ito shabby-looki~igbiiildiilgs, aboiit tlie eiitraiices of whicli are crowded esger 011-lookers. Thc groaiis, giowls, aild screccbes .whicli issue from siicli niliiivitiilg places caiise thc visitor to hiiwy by i11 sickeiiecl disgiist. The Time for a Siesta.-Thc streets of Fniiclid continiie crowded aiid biisy uiltil about elevei1 o'clock, wheil biisiness is aboiit ovcr for tlie day. Betweeii the hoiirs of mid-day anil tliree o'clock the streets are deserted, aiid tlie natives are to be foiiiiù congregated beneath the sliacle of the tiees in tl-ie public squares or iii their gardens, laziiy playiiig theii. guitars oi machetes. Others of the yoorer Class lie aslecp oii the i~avemeiits iiilder ~vliateversliade tliey cai1 fiiid. Tlio sliutters of the hoiises are l~artlyclosed aiid a11 is silence iiiltil tlie snii begiiis to siiik. Tbeii the aliiitters are tl-irowii opeii, the slcepers awaken, the lazy miisiciaiis cease tlieir tliriimmings, ai-id everythiiig is ZVe again. The Time for Social 1ntercourse.-The late afteriioons aiid evei1iilgs are giveii over to amiise237

Che 7Ltlnb of tbe Uiliite ment. The English people, who are great cnteitaiilers, clioose these times for their lawii-yarties, dailces, snpper-parties, lawii-tciiiiis tounlaineiits, iilformal cricket-inatches, aiid various other eiltertaiiiniei~tsof a festive chasacter.

LAZY NOONQAY I N T H E METROPOLIS

-

.. " .....

_ ..\*.,..

'i'

. ..L.

W H E R E B R I G H T - P L U M A G E D BIRDS DWELI

CHAPTER XXV

Be

discoverers of tlie 1Zlt.u dn Mc~cZeiq*a foiiild its deiisc forests teeriliiig witli birds of beaiitifiil song aiid pliiiuage. Aiid, tliongli iliaiiy of the forests have loiig siiice disaljpearcd, tlie wiilged iilliabítaiits have renlaiiied, aiid tlle birds of soilg coiitiaiie to drift iii the suiiily skies aiid to fill tlie air with exq~iisitemelody, while tl-ie birds of gay plnmage still flit tliroiigli tlie foliage aiid blcnd tlieir brill i a ~ ihues t witli t l ~ eflowers aiid tropical greeiis. The Ganary.-There are thirty-oiie different species o£ birds iiow breeding iii Madeira. O£ tliese tlie wild caiiai-y deserves special meiition, as it is tlie origiiial of tlie taine soiigster. A stiailger ~~nfamiliar with tlie cliaracteristics o% tliis bird usually smiles increduloiisly wlieil iiiforined of this fact, remakiiig that the cailary of the birdcage is light-yellow, whereas tlie so-called cailary of tlle islalid is greexi. And theii he leari~sthat 241

Cbe Xaitb of tbe Uíifne this same greeii bird cliaiiges coloiir wlieil captured aild becomes tlie yellow canary witli which 11e is familiar. Tlie wild caiiaries are tl-ie m o ~ t aumerous variety of nativc birds. The Petre1,-A local snperstitioii relatiilg to tlie petsel is worthy of passing meiitioii. Tlie coiiiltry-people regard the petsel as a bird of i11 omeil, aud brlicve that death follows beiieatli tlie roof of aiiy liousc whereoii it alights. The Meadow Pipit.-Tlie ineadow pipit, too, is lield iii snperstitious veneratioii, beiiig' regarded b y thc iiatives as a sacred bird. I t utters a low call, i-iuls swifily, biit seldoin fíies, aizd a traditioii relates that it was preseiit with the Virgiil Mary a t tlie tiine of tlie birth of Christ. Follo~.vingis ali all~liabeticallist of tlie Englisll names of Madcirail bivds. The sciciltific aiid iiativc ilaincs d s o are appeiided, togetl~erwitli brief descriptioiis of the appeawiice aild habita of tlie feathercd species listed.

A B O V E T H E CLOUDS, W H E R E T H E B U Z Z A R D D W E L L S

BIRDSPROCREATING IN MADEIRA English Name.

Barnoml. Blackbird. Blackcap.

hátive Name.

Coruja. Nerlo-preto. Toutenegro.

(Species of black- Toutenegro cacapo) pillo. Buzzard. Manta. Canary, green. Canario.

S ! cn ChaBnch, bnffbreasted.

Tentilhão.

Dove, ring.

Ponbo.

Goldhch.

Pinta silgo.

Gnll, herring.

Caião ; gaivota after third moult.

ScíentificName. S&ixfiammea, Lima.

Remarks.

Fond of the shade, and dmells in the darker caves and ravines.

Turdus merula, Gnn. Sylvia atricapilla, Lath. Curmca Heinekeni, A favourite pet of the natives, and is Jard. easily tamed. Buteo vulgaris, Leach. Frequents the mountains of the interior. Serinus canarius,linn. The original stock of the yellom canary, the change ín colour being the result of domesticity. Fringilla tintillon, A variety peculiar to Madeira, the CanaTe66 & B. ries, and the Azores, and never found elsemhere. Frequents the highlands. Columba p'alnmbus, A denizen of the forest country of the Lins. north side, and furnishes delicate eating. Fringilla cardaelis,

Linn. Laras argentatus, Brunn.

Frequents the sea-coast.

e E? @

2.

? O

rç,

*

BIEDSPROCEEATIXG IN 3 1 ~ 1 1 ~ 1C~01 ~~t -i122led X a t i ~ Same. e

Francelho. Linnet, or greater Pintarroxo. redpole. Partridge, red- Perdiz. legged. dngiiho.

Petrel, dusky.

Pintado.

ScientiiicS m e .

Falco tinnunculus, Linn. Fringilla cannabina,

Lilzm. Pejdix rubra, Briss.

Thalassidroma Bulmerii, Gould.

PuEnus obscurus,

Tenalia.

Petrel, Leach's.

Roque de Castro.

Thalassidroma Lesehii, Tenzm.

Remarks. A fearless bird of prey.

A plentiful variety, of brilliant, neverchanging, red plumage. Frequents the mild mountain tracts ; is wary and fleet of foot, but furnishes excellent eating. Native a t the Desertas; has darb-bromn plumage and tmo long, drooping tailfeathers. Peculiar to the Xadeiras and the Canaries. Breeds a t the Desertas ; has light-gray legs, ou whicli it rarely stands, for it mriggles along the ground upon its belly and, being shy of daylight, climbs to hiding-places in the rocks, when darkoess wanes, by aid of itr bill, which it employs like a lever. It feeds on small fish and upon a fem varieties of insects.

e @ gr O rg

*

-3

Pigeon, long-toed Pombo Trocaz. mood.

Pigeon, rock.

Pombinho.

Pipit, meadom.

Corre caminho.

,Quail.

Cordoniz.

5

Redbreast. Popinho. Shearwater, ciner- Cagarra. eous. Shearmater, Manlís.

Boeiro.

A common variety, dwelling in the large trees, where the remarkable length of íts middle toe (varying fiom two to three inches) enables it to clutch the thickest branches. It is sought by the islanders as a delicacy of food. Columba Iivia, Brlss. Abounds in the rnountainous coast districts. Anthus Bertheloti, Flocks in the uncultivated mountain regions aud in the fields near the Bolle. coast. Pedrix coturnix, Lalh. Abundailt; found near the coast villages, easy to approach, and furnishes delicate food. Sylvia rubecula, Lath. A species of thrush v-íth a red breast. Puffinus major, Temnz. Seen occasionally in Madeira and abouilds at f i e Desertas. Salted and considered a table delicacy by the natives. Pnffinus anglorum, Breeds a t the Desertas; resembles the Tonm. dushy petrel in habits and appearance, excepting that it is a slightly larger bird and has white legs. Tiapped and salted for food. Columba trocaz,

Hein.

e i 3 7 r,

+

3 2 6

BIRDSPROCREATIXG 13 JIADEIRACoiz~Z2~ded Sarive Sarna

Pardal.

Swift, common.

Çeienüüc Same.

Fringilla Linn.

Andorinhadomar. Cypselus

Sívift, lesser.

Andorinha Serra. Garrajão.

JVagtail, gray.

Lavandeira.

petronia,

murarim,

Temm. da Cypselus nnicolor, Jard. Sterna hirundo, Linn.

N I A

Warbler, spectacled. Gallinhola. Woodcock. 4

Bibez.

&Ioiacilia boada, Linn. Curruca conspicillata, Gould. Scolopar rusticola, Linn.

Regulus Gadeirensis, Harcourt.

Remh.

Common to the various inhabited and uninhabited localities, and nests in the crags. Contrary to its name, an uncommon variety. A numerous, dark-plumaged, cl3-dwe11ing varíety. Seen occasionally on the coast, but rarely found nesting in Madeira. Frequents the Desertas. Nestr in the neighbourhood of the ribeíros and levadas. Frequents the thickets of the wild mountain districts. Dwella in the wstern highlands and abounds in the mist-hung thickets of the lofty Paul da Serra. Hunted at dusk by natire sportsmen. Furnishes escellent food. Characteristic to Madeira, and inhabits the wild, shrubby localities of the highlands.

S n

@

2

s a

Although most of the informatioli contaiiled iii this chal~terwns collected by the writer diiring his residciice iii Madeira, he desires, aevcrtheless, to express ackiiowledgments for assistaiice derived from coi~siiltatioiiof a contribntioii by Mr. E. Yernoii IIarconrt iii tlie AlznuaZ cuzd IMngnaiue of Nnturnl I2istory foi* JLI~IC, 1855, anel for aid obtaíi~edby referente to severa1 of the woiblcs oii o~iiitliologyfoiiild in tlie 1ibrai.y of tlie Britisli Mnseiim.

CZIAPTER XXVI

i*t~niblo oii one of tl-ie clesolate beaches at low tidcl cai1 ftiriiisli iniicli iiistructioii arid eiijoyineni; to the persoii witli a taste for nat111~alIiistory, or, iiideed, to aay lover of natnre. The1-1tlie sliallow pools which are left by the receding water are filled with inany sorts of y e e i looliiiig cipcatures: sea-cliiemoiies, witli hoiidreds oP loi-ig, sqizirmiiig feelcrs, star-fish, sea-ixrcliiiis, with loilg, spilry spines, that tlie batlier should bcware of, as they may canse permaiieiit lnmencss w11eil tread iipoil, crabs of every size and clcscril~tioii,per~iwii~lrles, limpets, aild co~mtless oi;liei. ii-ili~~bitaiits of tl-ie LCvasty deep." Fresh-Water Fish.-Ecls are the oilly freshwatcr fis1-1i11Madeira. They are good eatiilg aiid a'bouiid i11 coi~siderablevariety iii the moiintain Chnpter IX., Tide. 250

Fish a Staple Food.-The natives of tlie poorer clasfi iii tlie coast districts ~ u b s i s tlai-gely oii fiB11.l Tunny,-Their principal sea-food is tlie Pe{xe Atum, or t i ~ i n ~ ya, large fish, weigliiiig froni three b~iiidred to aix hiindred poiiiids, wliose fies11 is of LZ Beefy red. The &eZ~,os, 01- wliitebait, is also relislied; it is foiiiid iieai shore afies rain-stoirns, wlieii it swirns i11 searcli of food into tlie miiddy water at the mouths of idand atreams. Octopus. -PuZvo, op octopus, is soiight after for the iioiirisl~iiigsoiip ~vhichit fiviiishes tvheii boiled2 , Nearly every hlown species of marine fish iiihabits the waters siirroiiiiding Madeira ;there are few, however, that have the distinctive flavours by which we lrilow them. This may be owilig iil pait to the varyiiig temperatures of the rnai~y currents swirliiig aboilt tlie islaiid, to tlie volcaiiic conditioii of the ocean bed, and to a variety of othes causes.

a

Chapter VI., Marketing. Another dish is turtle.soup, Cliapter XXVII. 253

Cbe Zanb oE tbe Ilj(çline Best Table-Fish. -The more tasty species are Jol-ia-dory, Jew-fisll, sztrdilie, ~almoiietedo alto, mullet, and abroteas. Marine Varieties of Fish.-Of tl-ie more iliimer011s species o£ inariile lisli t l ~ efollowiiig'is a partia1 list :Dog-fish . . . . . . . . Peixe Ciio Electric fiah . . . . . . . Torpedo Flying-fish . . . . . . . Peixe Voador Gurnard . . . . . . . . Requieme Ilerring . . . . . . . . Arenque Hei-ring, Mndeiran. Horse-mackerel, Madeiran Chicharro . . . . . . . . Jew-fish Cherne Jolin-dory . . . . . . . . Peixe Gallo Maclrerel . . . . . . . . Cavala Mediterran e~m Spet, or Pikelilce Bicuda . . . . . . Bicuda Mullet, gray . . . . . . . Tainha ~ i l l e tred , Salmoneta . . . . . . . Mutton-fish Carneiro Needle-fish . . . . . . . Agulha Rabbit-fisli . . . . . . .Peixe Coelho Sand"sme1t . . . . . . . Guelro Xardine . . . . . . . . .Sardinha Sea-bream Sargo Sea-bream tribe . . . . . . Pargo Xea-fish variety . . . . . . Garoupa

. .

. . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . 254

Shark, twenty-four varietiesl Sucking-fisli . . . . . . Sword-fish . . . . . . . Toad-Gsh . . . . . . . Tripe . . . . . . . . Tunny . . . . . . . . Whirlpool-fish . . . . . White-bait . . . . . .

. Tubarão

. Remora . Peixe Espada . Sapo . Dobrada . Peixe Atum . Boqueiriio . Guelros . . . . . . . . . . . . Gaiado . . . . . . . . . . . . Bezugo . . . . . . . , . . . . Boga Chapter V., Where Sharks abound.

GZIAPTER XXVII ItlEPTXLBS AND BATRACHIANS

Bere are

ito %tzfikee,-As

Irelaiid ia proverbially free froin siiakes, so is Madeira in verity. It is straage, but true, t11:at there lias lievci. becii a siialce foiiiid oii thc islniid. Thiis, no fcar ileed be entertaiiicd oii tlie score of veiioinoiis reptilcs by tlic foreigiier wlio woiild 1~ciietiaLet l ~ eMadeiraii ~vilderness. Turt1es.-While tlie loggerliead tiirtle frequeilts tlie waters aboiit Madeira, it does iiot breed tliere. It; lays its eggs, aiid its yoiing are l-iatched, 011 tlic liot salids o£ other tropical islaiids far away. Turtle-Soup. -Madeira11 fi~liermeii catcli tl-ie loggeihead wlieii it floats asleep oii tlie surface oE tlic water, for its shell is iisef~ilfoi varioiis piir~ o s e s aiid , its Bcsh is made iilto a soup,l wliich, wliile ii-ifirior to tlie greeii-tiirtle ~oriprelisbed A1iol;Iior disli is octopus-soup; see Ohapter XXVI., ootopu~i. BBtj

T H E VINEYARD.

W H E R E T H E L I Z A R D I5 DREADED.

1ReptíIee anb Batracbiane by Americans and Englisli, is nevertheless quite edible. A gardeii pet is the Testudo gyceca, a tiirtle that has beeii introduced fiom the Afiicaii coast of tlie Mediterraiiean Sea. Lizards. - Thoiigli iii t l ~ eCa11aries there are inaiiy vtisietics of lizards, there is iii Madeira but oiie, Lucerta ~ z c ~ é s iand i , it is ubiqiiitous.' It varies froin two to six inches in length, aiid its coloiis is often browii, tlioiigh it is sometimes gray or Black, or, agaiii, greeilisli-blue. It iiifests the islaiid iii coiiiitless millioils, aild, tl~ougliit abates tlie mosquito aiid hoiise-fly iiuisaiice, it ia a pest to the viiie-tenders, for it ofteii caiises great havoc iii tlie vintage seasoa by devoiiring tlie ripelied grapes. It scampeis from darlc crevices aiid Basks in tlie snnshiiie. It is biit seldom seeii iii deeplyshaded places, while tl-ie snli-balrecl walls aiid sunbathcd sides of those varieties of trees whereoii tlie foliagc grows high aiid casts biit little shade oii tlie tr~ziiksare covered with the sinal1creatiires. ~ a , t r & h i a n s . - ~ tree-fiog, B j l a a ~ õ o ~ ~aiid ea, a water-frog, Rnmt ten-ora~ic~,were introdnced ahapter V., The Ubiquitous L'izard. 11.-13

259

Ube %anb of tbe W n e abouf;a liuiidied yeais ago aiid have since become characteristic, Tlie siilgiag of the tree-fiogs in tlie hotel gardens iii tlie eveiiiiig takes the place of the siagiiig of tlie birds iii daytime, as does tlie croakiiig of tlie water-frogs iii swqmpy riiral district S.

CHAPTER S X V I I I

uinber of Uaríetiee of llneecte,There are aboiit one tliousaild three hiiildred aiid thirty varieties of iiisects in Madeira; soine are to be fotiiid at the moiintaiii-tops, some iii tlie forest, aome aloilg the sea aiid cliffs, aud some iii the towiis and hoiises, where they are most noticeable to tlie ilew-comer. Spiders.-Large spiders, from ali inch to two iiiclies iil lengtl~,have a tei~deiicyto attach their webs to tlie ceiliiig during the iiight ai14 by mealis of the threads which they spiii let theinselves down iipoii tlie bed of the sleel~er. Tarantu1as.-Along the i-oclrs thei:e are many taraiitiilas, bnt tlicse, the largest species of spider, rarely go into dwelliilgs. The House-Ant.-Thei'e is a most ailiioyiilg aiit which swarms iii the boiises, aometimes i11 tlioiisands and sometimes iii millioils. WIieii tliey nl)llenr iii sucli vast iiiimbers, it is advisable to 263

Cbe Zanb of tbe Wiiie move oiit of doors m t i l they are roiitecl.. This variety, whicli has beeii naiiied Ecop7~t7~ora pusillc., has beeii divided by ~cieiitistsiiito foiir social classes,-the males, the feinales, tlie worlcers, aiid the figliters. The Helpless Beet1e.-Tliese aiits have a stroilg frieiidly regard foi. a certaiii species of beetle, wllich accompaiiies theni oii a11 tlieir foragiiig expeditioiis ;its scieiitific liame is Coss~/23hus. It is almost blind aiid winglcss, biit its waiits are carcf~illylooked aftcr by its friciicl thc aiit. Cockroach and 0ricket.-Other lovers of domesticity are a certain coclrroacli-there is aiiotlier cockroacli foniid iii the fields-and a cricket with a steiitorian voice. Tliesc bugs are especially foiid of the lritclieii, aiid rarely iise thc otlier ilooms of tlie hoiise except to exercise iii after eatiiig heavily. Butterflies and Moths.-There aro eleveii vai'ieties of butterflies aiid abo-iit 0110 liuiidred vnrieties of motlis. Some of tlie latter are very laiage aiid beautiful; niost notable of tlie varieties is the liiiinmiiig-bird liawk-motli (Mc~croglossn stellatorum), which, wlien iii flight, is freqneiitly inistakeii, eveii by ilataralists, for tlie h-iiininiiig-bird, 264

Ailother notable varicty is the death's-head hawkmoth (Acherontia alropos). Beetles, Orasshoppers, and Locusts.-Madeirari beetles, nillilre Brazilian beetles,' are ilot brilliantly coloiired, but have tints of black aild bromi~. The conlmolz earwig aboiinds iii a11 the islaiids of tlie Madeiran gronp, and a large grassliopper aiid a field-criclcet are plentiful. Tliere is also a scarce variety of locust. "Ii~sectaMaderensia," an authoritative work by Mr. Wollastoil, the botanist, eilumerates some foui huiidred aiid eighty-three varieties of beetle. A list of Madeira11 insects, compiled by Mi.. Jarnes Yate Jolinsoil alld quoted by Mi. A. Saililer Brown in his excellent book, " Madeira and the Caiiary Islaiids," is given oii the following page. The iiumber of varieties a i ~ dthe names of the severa1 classes to which tliey respectively beloag are also set forth.

Cbe Zanb oi tbe Uillne Number of Vnrieties. Diptera Two-wiiigcd iiisccts,-c.g., gnnts, house-fly, etc. 1íi0 iiymerinptcrn Iclineitmoris, gnll-fliea, wnspri, nnts, etc. 217 Coleoptern Beetles 606 IIcmiptorn ( Eeteroptern Bugs 64 I Homnptern Aphides, etc. 14 Thysnnoptern Midges 6 Lepicloptern, Rliopnlocern. Biitterflies 11 Lcpidoptera, Heterocera Moths , 101 Orthoptera Grasslioppen, lociisls, c'cic.itroacl~cs, ctc. 19 Neuroptcrn Drngan-Bics, whitc nnls, ctc. 87 Trichoptern , . Cnddis-flies,snter-motlis, etc. , 10 Apliniiiptera. Blens 3 Dermntoptera, Boilii~iiliiliie Enrwigs 9 Scieiitiflc Nnme.

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Englisli Nnmc.

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Arncli~iidn Miriapoda

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. Spiders . .

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Centipedes

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1380

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GO

4

Accommodations amay from Funchal . i. Adam and Eve i Administration . . . . . . . . . ii Administration. changes i11 . . i Adventure. a restaurant . . . ii Adventnre. a thrilling . . . i i. African question. the . . . i. Age of the Island of Madeira : . i . . . .i Agents. hotel. health officers and . Aguilere. Clhristopher Columbusi. . . . . . . . . . . i. Air . . . . . . . . . i. Air-holes and caverns . . . . . . . . . ii Aleppo pine . . . . . . . ii Alexandrian laurel . . . . . . . . i Along the boulevard America. D r . Fructuoso a supporter of a theory regarding . . i the discovery of American staves for wine-casks ii. Americans. attitude towards ii. . . . ii Americans. native friendliness for the . Animal-flowers and shdl-fish ii Animais. wild ii Annad'Arfet'sdeath i Anna'sforcedmarriage i 267

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PAQE

155 68

17 81 91

48 9G 232 114 61 256 236 172 162 130 58 111 34 34 250 223 38 28

Annual celebration of the country church . Ant. the house. Apple and quince Apple. cilstard. . . Areeiro. Pico do . . Aristocracy. attire of l a d i ~ sof the Aristocracy. Mndeirnn Aristocracy viewed the ceremoily. wherk tlio . Arrny. the . . Arrival a t the liotel . . . Art-gallery in the Chapel of Lhe Sacrament Art.galleries. the palatial . Articles of nntive indult~y.denlers iii . . . . . Ash-Wednesday's parade . Asphalt road. the . . . . . . . . . Assassination of Governor d'0rnell:ts . . . . Associaçáo Commercial . Assumption. feast of the . . . . Asylo d a Mendicidade . . . . . . Asylo. inmntes of the . . Attire of lndies of B e aristocracy .

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ii 69 . ii 263 ii . 158 . ii 158 i . 172. 249 ii 77 ii . 45 . ii 80 . ii 37 . i 137 i ; 209 i . 192 . ii . 105' . ii. 73 . ii 123 . i. 85 . i 162 i 168 . ii 67 . ii . 58 . ii . 77

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Baiiann ii Dankers. Blandy Rrothers $ Co.. rcsponsible . . . ii . ii. Banlcer~.jewcllors are tlie pelteants' Bnnlt.note~i.scarcity of gold and silver and over-supply u i ii . . ii. Banlr.notes. weighty coinage and bulky . ii Baron Conceiyio. tlie Corn-Giver . . . ii. Baronesa Coliceic,Bo's. diriner a t Basalt; aud Tufa i. . . . . . . . . . Batrxchians ii . . . . . . I..1. Bay and its shipping. ~ 1 i u

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Bay, iu Fuuchal B ~ YLabra . Bearers. how to clioose the rêde- . Beasts of burden Beautiful woman. Sister Clementinal~hemost Beef Beetle. the helpless Beetles. grasshoppers. and locusts . Beggars . . . . . Behind the times Belgium. steamers froui . . . . .
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109 213 177 227 24 227 264 265 58 42

147 154 53 . i 196 ii . 245 . ii. 23 ii . 23 . ii 72 . ii. 98 . ii. 96 i. 165 . i 153 i. 150. 208 . i 84 . ii. 24 . ii 208 . i 130 . ii 100 . i. 185 ii . 179 i . 96 i- 95

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PABE

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Breaking of the cromn. tlie . Breakwaler . . . . . . British Ceuietei'y. tlie New . . British churches . . . British monopoly of the cominerce . . British occupancy of Madeira . . Brolren glass excludes trespassers . Broorn. cactiis. prickly pear. and geianiums Bual Bull-figliting . . . . Burden. beasts of . . . . . Burial of natives . Burial.ground. the Residentti' B~~sinesshours Butterflies and mollis . . . . Buzio

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. . . ii.

172 07 94 ii 98 i 63 i . 63. (i4 . i 171 . i . 235 . i 235 i. 159 . i. 214 i ; . 143 i . 217 ii 173 ii 168

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. Cabo Girao mountnins . Cnbo Giri~o.second liighest sea-cliff in tlie world Cnctus, prickly pear. geraniums. and broom . Calce. sponge . . . . . . . Unilieta . Calh&tn.irrigation of Calheta. monastery in Camphor-tree Camping in the mountains 2i O

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PAOE

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caiiario. Pico i . 173. 249 . . . . . . . . . ii. 241 Canary. the Cannry Islands. ~teauiersfroin thc . . . i 145 . . . . . . . . . ii 107 gane spirit Cnni~nl.Basalt and Tufa neor . . . . . . . i 228 . . . . . . ii. 87 Caiiiion blasts tlie sorrow . . . . . . ii 66 Cannoii. iireworks and . . . . . . . . i . 235 Cantaria. quarries of . . . i . 61. 209 Cnpolla of Nosso Senhor de Milagres Captain Coolr's sojourn in Madeirn i . 90 . . . . i. 95 CaiqlosI.. Dom. the present king . Cnrlos. Dom. victory for i . 96 Carro. the i 125. 126 . . . . . . . . i 201 Casino. tlie . . ii 111 Oaslrs. American staves fur wine- . . . . ii 38 Castello de João 13nttista do Pico . . . . i 84 Cathedral. bombardment of the . . . . . . i . 82 Cnthedral. erection of tlie Cathedral externally. the i 133 Cnthedral. the interior of the ii 78 Cathedral. the music i n the ii . 84 Cattle-raising ii 224 Clavern. asubt~rranean i 212 Oaveriis. air-holes and i . 236 Caves i. 205 Cayeune pepper ii 107 Celebration a t Níachico ii. 70 . . . . ii 6G Celebratiou. of Christmas. native . . . ii 69 Oelebratiou of the country church. annual . Cemetery. the Hebrew ii 25 . . . . . . ii. 26 Oemetery. thenewBritish (lernetery. tlie Portuguese general i 26 211

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Cemetery. the gtrangeru' ii . 2G Beromony. the platform . ii. 87 Ceremony. wliere the aristocritoy viewed tlie . ii 80 Cliaiigce in administratiou . i 81 Olinpel of Nosso Senhor de Milagres i 51. 209 U l i a ~ ~of e l Saiita (Tatarina . i G8 CThnpol of Santa Izabel . . . . . i 51. 210 Uhnpcl of Lhe Sacrament. arl-galltry iii the . i 209 0hal)ol to the momory of the prediscoverers. Zargo . i 45 biiilds n . . ii 53 Cliarnctor. nativo . . i 100 Clinracter. tha lriiig's Oliaractoi.. tlia queen's . . . . . . . i . 99 . . ii 90 Clliargos in reis seem exorbibaut . ii. 98 Cllinrgcs to different countries. cabling . . ii. 172 BIiost~sut~ Spanish . ii 66 CYliristmns. native celebration of . . . i 61 0liri~tol)liorColumbiis-Aguilere . . . . i 69 Clliurcli. ailnual celebration of the country . . . i 249 Uliurcl i. nt Fayal . . . . . i. 209 CTliurcli nt Macliico. tlic Parish . . . . . . ii. 27 CTliiircli of Englaild. the . . . . . i. 215 Ghiircli of Sntito Antonio dn Serra . . . . . . ii. 28 Clhurcli oE Scotland. the Bree . . . . . . . . ii 65 Clliiircli. tlio Eisglisli . . i 168 a111rc11 1 o 1 1 . ii 22 Clliurcli. tlie Eomnn (Tatholic . ii . 27 C)liurclies. British . i 173. 249 (Jidrfio. Pico ii 157 . . . . . . . . Clilroii . . ii . 18 aivil governar o£ ma de ir:^, nnme of present i 93 Cjivil wnrs

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Climatio situation k. Clouds Club. Associn(;ão Commercial Club. English Cliib Funchalensc Club Restaurapfio Clube and libraries Const conformation Coclrroach and cricket . . . . . . Coin. reis the standard . . . . . . Coinage in the provinces. lack of . . . . Ooinage. weighty. and bulky bank-notes . . Coloiiists. distinguished Nadeiran . Colonization of Madeira . . . . . . Colony. the new Portuguese . . . . . Colouring wines of inferior quality. flrtvouring niid Columbus.Aguilere. Christopher Columbus a resident i n the Madeira8 Columbus. courtship o* . . Columbus weds Perestrellols daiigliter . Columbos's house . . . Commerce. British monopoly of the Commerce. the . . . . Commodities. market value of . Communication. cable Concelho. Porto Santo Concelhos . . . Condition of Madeira. unprosperons . . . . . . . . Coniferoustrees Constituipão. Prac)a da . . Consuls in Madeira. conntries hilving Convant of Santa Clara 273

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i i.

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253 256 162 160 162 162 160 231 264 90 100 92 69 68 46 219 61 57 66 57 58 29 102

. i. 160 . . . . . . . ii. 97 . . . . . . . ii. 19 . . . . . . . . i i . 17 . ii . 108 . ii . 172 . . . i. 188 . . . . . . . . .

i. 121 .24

. ii.

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PAQE

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Convento das Merces ii. 24 I Convento d e Santa Izabel . . ii. 24 Convento do Bom Jesus . . . ii. 24 Conveyance. modee of . i. 122 Conveyance. the siiporior i. 126 Conveyances o£ similar kind iii other parta of tlie wnrld. the r0de superior to . . . . . . . i. 178 Cook. the i . 159 Coo1t'~i.Ca]>txin.sojourii in Mitdeirn . i . 90 Coopers ii 209 Corn.Giver. Baroii Coiiceigão. the . . . ii. 57 Coronatioii of Donna Maria . . . i . 93 Oorrca. Gaspnr. is put to dentli . . i . 84 Cossart. Gorcloii <St Co.'s book ii . 208 Cossart. Gordon & Co.. vinea and storrs of ii 201 Cotlon tree. sillrii. 173 CouriLii~g.liouse.Lhe ii . 218 . . . . . . . i 218 Counlry. farming . Countrywomen. dress o[ t h e ii 74 County prison. lhe i. 200 . . . . . . i 66 Courtahip of Colutnbiis . . . . . . . ii. 264 Cricket. cockronch and . . . . . . . . ii. 86 Crowrl. Lhe prostrate Crowii.bcarerJ llie . . . . . . . . ii. 85 Crown is brolreii. ii 87 . . . . . ii. 73 Crown. tlic brctllting of Lhe . Clrowna. tliree. must bo broken . . . . . ii 88 . . . . . . . i . 173. 249 Curral. lhe Qrnrid . . . . . . . i. 171 Curral. tlio Little . Curral. wliy so iiarned i 86 Uurrency deiiominaLioiis nrid ripproximate equivalents . ii 99 O~irrency.gold-liiiked cliains as investments and as ii 101 274

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Custom.house. the Customs. Biblical

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Date of original apportionment into concelhos Date-palm . . . . . . . ii D Diniz I.. the accornplishrnents of . Dealers in articles o f native industry . . . Defensive ~tructures. P o r t Pico . . . Defensive structures. F o r t San Thiago . Demand exceeded the supply. mhen the . Dental surgeons i n Madeira. list of Desert of Sahara. s a n d from the . Desertas. Ihe . Dethronement of the king is acivocat~fl. ? Diet for the new-comer Diniz I.. Dom. the accomplishments of . Dinner a t Baroness Conceigfio's . . Discovery ancl n a m i n g of Porto do Seixo . . Discovery and n a m i n g of Porto Santo . Discovery of America. a coincidence that led to the . . . . . Discovery of Madeira. the . . . Distingiiished Maileiran colonists . . . . . . Districts. inhabited coast . Divers, deep-sea . . . . . Doctors i n Madeira, l i s t of . Domestic fowls. t h e D'Ornellas. Qovernor. assassination of . . Dress for mountaineeiing. how to . . . . Dress. ladies' . Dress of the countrywomen . . . . . 275

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Dance. the Madeiran DIArfet. the cruel

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1:) 105 38 41

197

. i . 2tj3 . i. 252 . i. 24U . i. 90 . i. 137 . ii . 10 ii. C5 i. 62 . i . 45 . i. 58 . i. 50 . i. 69 . i. 207 .

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263 253 85 45 74

Dressmakers Drinking-water

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105 i. 159

Earthquakes i. Egg-export ii. Electric-light plant, t.he ii. Elopement, the i Embroidery industry , , , . , . ii. Embroidery, Madeiran lace and ii. . . . . i. Empress of Brazil, the late downger . . . . . . i. Eugland, steamers from . England, the Church of ii. English, attitude towards ii. English Church, the ii. English Club i. . . . . . . i. English houses, private . . . . . . . . i. Enterprising natives Entrance, forcing an ii. Equivalents, currency denominations and approximate ii. . . . . . . i. Erection of the cathedral. . . . . . . ii. Escape, a hair-breadth . Escape, Machin7s i. i. Escape of crew by sea to Africa, there made slaves E ~ t u f astores, where the wines are subjected to heat, the ii. . ii. Estufa, where the sun is used instead of the .

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Evaporation, loss of wine throiigh . Eve, Aclam and Exchange, the official rate of Excursions, moonlight , Excursions, time reqnired for certain Expedition, Zargo's second Export, egg27 6

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PAQE

i. i. i. i. i. ii.

231 110 124 30 110 102 185 141

27 20 65

160 157 110 79 99 82 49 29 40 202 ,214 217 68 164 201 179 46 119

Export of wine to the United States. value of a year's Exports for the United States in 1897 .

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Fajaá dJOvelha. irrigation of . . . . ii Family names to.day. best i. ii Famine Fanal. why so named i Fan-palas . . . ii . i Farming country Father Xtoderigo and nine of his brolherhood. rnurder of i Fayal i Fayal. basalt near . . . . . . .i Fayal. why so named i. Feast of the Assumption . . . . . . .i Ferns like trees ii Ferns. list of . . ii Fig . . . . . . . . . . ii Fight of 1889. the . . . . . . . . ii Fighting. bull- . . . . . . . . . ii Fining for the Pateo stores . . . . . . ii Fire. the seven yearsJ . . . . . . .i Fire.woodJ kind and value of . . . . . . ii . Fireworks and cannon . . . . . . . ii Fish a staple food . . . . . . . . ii. Fish. best tableii . . . . . . . ii Fish. fresh-water . . . . . . . ii Fish. marine varieties of . . . . . . ii . Fish, shell.. animal-flowers and . ii Flavouring and colouring wines of irií'erior quality Flood of 1803. the ii Flood of 1803. water-spout and . . . . . ii Flowering planta. liat of luxuriant ii. 11.-14 27 7

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110 116 143 68 54 86 172 218 83 249 228 86 168 174 177 158 31 68 213 86 172 66 253 254 250 254 250 219 209 148 166

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PAQE

. 250 . 1% . 139 253 . 79 . 29 . 47 . 227 . 114 38 . 41 . 41 . 212 . 240 . 1G7 . 195 . 233 . 148 . 17 . 147 . 209 . 58 . 154 172 . 126

. . . . . ii Flowers and shell.fish. animalFontes de J o o Diniz. As . . i Food. another staple vegetable ii Food. fish a staple ii . . . . . . . . ii Forcing an entrance . . . ii Foreigners. attitude towards . Formalities. native . .* . . . ii Formation. volcanic i . . . . . . . Former days. landing in i . . . . . . . . . ii. Fort. Loo Rock . . . . . . . . . ii Fort. Peak Fort San Thiago ii Fossil bed. the i . . . . . . . . . i Fossil land . . . . . . i Fountain. legend of the . . . . . . . . . .i Fountains Fowls. the domestic ii France. steamers from i Freguezias ii . . . . . . . . . ii Freshet. a Fresliet. the sea~ionfor a ii FrucLuosol Dr., a supporter of a theory regarding the . . . . . .i discovery of America Fruit. varieties of . . . ii . . . . . . . . . . ii . Fuel Funcha.1. a ride tbrough the streets of . . . i Funehal, accommodations away from i. Funchal Bay. in i. Funchal. De Montluc raids . . . .i Funchal electrically lit by night . . . ii Funchal. lime-kilns of i Fpnchal. poverty in . . . . . , ii? 278

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155 109 82 31 239

68

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Funchal, religious processions i n Funchal, wliy so named Funchalense Club Furnished houses

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PAQE

72 86

16% i. 158

Garajão, Cabo do i, 63 . . . . . . . . i. 188 Cfarden, a public Gardens, hotel . . . . . . . . . . i. 181 Bardena, private i. 134 Gardens, the new public . . , , . , . i, 188 Gaspar Correa ia put to death . , . , i 84 Gateway, Varadouras i. 199 Geranium ii. 162 Geraniums, broom, cactus, and prickly pear i. 2% . . . . . . . ii. 210 Geraniums, scarlet . Barman hotel, t h e . . . . . i. 153 . . . . . . . . Gerrnan library i. 162 . . . . . . i. 147 Germany, steamers from . . . . . . . . . . i. 63 Birso, (labo Gir:iráo, Cabo, second higheut sea cliff in the world . i. 235 Gold and silver, scarcity of, and over-supply of banknotes ii. 100 Bold-linked chains as investments and as currency ii. 101 . . . . . Gold must be eighteen cara& fine ii. 101 . . . . . . . . ii. 37 Government, bad aovernor of Madeira, name of present civil . . ii. 18 . . . . . i. 56 aovernor, Porto Santo's first . . . . . . . i. 193 Governar, relating to the . . . . . i. 45 Goyernors of Porto Santo, the . Grain ii. 108 Grana Cti~ral,the. i' 17'* @rapes described, wine-making . ii. 'O3

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Grapes. Verdelho. the king of wine-prodncing Grasshoppers. locusts. and beetles . . . . . . . Grave of the lovers. the . . . .' Guavn Guide is desirable. a Guitarra. the

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. . ii . 203 . . ii . 265 . i . 38. 48 . . ii. 154

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. . . . . i Havoc wrought by the leste . Health and how to keep i t i. Health officers and hotel agents i . . . . ii . l-1ealth.resort. a watering-place and . ii . Heat. precautions against leakage under . . . . . . . . ii Hebrew Cemetery. the . . . . . . . i EIeights. a table of . Henry. Prince. Grand Master of "The Military Order of Chriat" i. . . . . . .i Henrg's parentage. Prince Highways. narrow i . . . . . . . . ii. Rimalayan rose . . . i Hired. how the rbde should be Ristoriana. the Portuguese. and their patriotic pride . i . . . . . . . i. Eistory. romance in . Holiday crowd. a ii. Holidaya. frequency of legal ii . . . . . . i Honeymoon. the . Eorses and their caro ii . Horticulture. Madeiran i . . . . . . . . . i EIospi~io . . . . . i. Hospigio Santa Casa da Jlisericordia . . . i. Hospital. leprosy and the Leper Hotel, arrivalat the . . . . i. Hotel gardens i.

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173 61 255 262 114 110 214 25

247 52 42 130 162 179 97 27 74 68 33 228 180 182 186 187 137 181

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Hotel. Jones's ('Bella Vista l1 Hotel Miles Carmo. the . . Hotel Santa Clara . . . Hotel Santa Cruz . . . Hotel. the German . . . Hotel. the New . . . Hotel. the Royal Edinburgli . liouse. Golumbus's House. the counting. . Houses. furnished Houses. private English . . Houses. slairghter- . . Humidity . . .

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Ilha da Madeira, signification of . . Ilheo dlAgostinho . . . . Ilheo de Baixo Imports i n 1897 Impri~onment~ Machinls Income from Madeira. Portugal's . . India-rubber tree . . . Industrp. embroidery . Inliabited coast clistricts . . . Inhabited islands. the Insects. list of Insects. number of varieties of Insulti. a deadly . Interior. a view o i the . InterioroftheCatbedra1,the . Invalid. the story of an . Iuvalid. wnrning to tbe . Invalid1slump.the

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154 153 164 207 153 150 153 5 8 218 158 157 234 253 85 213 239 115 28 98 173 119 207 239 266 263 47 171 78 258 258 93

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Invention of the carro Investments and as currency. gold-linked chains as Investments in jsemellery Irrigation Island. Morales hears of the new . . . . Island of Madeira. age of the . . . . . Islands. the inhabited . . . . . . Izabel. Capella of Santa

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PAOE

125

. ii . 101 . . . . . . ii . 100 . . . . . . . ii. 136 . i . 41 . i. 232 . i . 239 . . . . . . i. 61. 210

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Jemellers and watchmakers. leading Jewellers are the peasants' banlrers . Jewellery from Brnzil. old-fashioned topaz ~ e w e l l e rinvestments ~. in Jewellery. wearing of João Battista do Pico. Castello de João Diniz. As Fontes de . Joy. sorrow turned to

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. ii. . ii. . ii. i. . ii.

102 101 100 100 46 38 196 88

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160 125 89 100 84

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. Kilo . . . . . . . . . . . i. ICing and queen. natal day of the . . . . . i i. King I Long live the . . . . . . . ii . I
. . i. . . . . i i. . . . . . . . . . i. . . . ii. . . . ii . . . . . . . . . ii. .

Labour. love for Labourers. shnde for the Labra Bay Lace and embroidery. Madeiran Lack of coinage in the provinces Ladies' dress Ladies o i the ari~tocracy.attire of Ladies. the

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282

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218 210 213 102 100 46 77 45

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PAQE

LamaceirosPass i 214 i. 114 Landing in former days i . 117 Landing. present mnnner of Latin. Portuguese the daughter of i. 86 Laiirel. Alexaudrian . . . ii 162 Lava . . . . i 173. 230 Law. despotic . . . . . . . . . ii . 36 Lawn-tennis . . . . . . . i. 182 . ii. 214 Leakage under Iieat. precautions against Legal holidays. frequency of . . ii 68 Legend o i the foiinlain . . . . . . . i 167 Leguminous planta . . . . ii 140 Leprosy. ancl the Leper I-Io~pital i . 187 i. 254 Leste. the Lesle. the. havoc wrought by . . . i 255 Letter from Blandy Brothers Sr. Co ii 98 Lctter from United States Consul Jones to tlie mriter . ii 120 Letters from the united States Department of State ii . 109. 126 Levadas ii 136. 142 . . . . . . . i . 160 Libraries. clubs and . . . . . . . . . i. 162 I;ibrary. Gcrman . . . . . . . i. 243 Life at Porto Santo . Life of Prince I-Ienry the Navigntor i . 52 Life. religious ii 63 Light-lioiise. the i 213 Liglit plant. the electric- . . . . ii. 124 . . . . . . i . 239 Lime-lrilns of Fiinclial . . . . . . i 146 Lisbon by rnil. from Paris to . Lit by riight. Funchal electrically ii 31 LittleCurral. the i 171 Lizards i 134. ii 259 Locd aubmarine telegrapli compauies. officesof the 97 283

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Local stenmsliip service . Locusts. beetles. ancl grasshopl>ers Lodging at Boa Ventiira Loclging at Rabagal m Lodging at Santa Anna Lodging at Santa Cruz e . . Lodging at 8Tio Viceiite Lodging at 8eixal "Long live the Iring I" Loo. a corruption of Ilheo Loo Rock Fort Loquot . . . . . . LOSSof wine throiigh evalioration Lotting of wine. raclring aiid . . Lave for labour Lovers. the grave of the Lovers' trysl. the . Luix I.. Dom. reign of

PAQB

245

2G5 155 156 i 156 i 156 i. 156 i. 156 ii gg i . 38 ii 38 ii 158 ii 217 . ii . 213 i . 218 i 38. 48 . i. 25 i. 94

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Machkte. tho Machico Machico. basalt and tufa near . Machico. celobration at Machico. the parish church at Machiiils death Machin's cscape Machin's imprisonment Madeira. age of the island of Madeira. bishop of Madeire. colonization of iITadeira. discovery of Madeira from the sea

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. . . . ii. 61 i . 12. 208 . i . 228 . ii. $0 . i. 209 . i. 38 . i. 29 . i. 28 . i. 233 . ii. 23 . i. 68 . i. 30 . i. 109

Madeira, Ilha da, signification of , Madoira ia especially interesting to thé. ;.orld, mhy Madeira, mosses peculiar to . . . . . Madeira, Napoleon brought to . . . . . Brndeira, Portiigal's income from . , . . I\iXnd~irn, recliscovery and naming of . . . Mndeirn, shipping concesdons for . . . . Mndairn, size of , , . , . . Mndeirn, steamers to . . . . . . Mndeirn, iiiiprosperous condition of . Mi~cleirn,wina-mercliants of, the responsible . . 1 E ~ d e i r mnristocracy , . , Rlnileirnii dance, the . . . . . . hIndciran horticulture . . . . . . Madoirai1 Ince and embroidery . . , . . . . . . . . Mncloirnn pride . . . . . . Mndoirnii wnllr, the . . . . . . Mncleirnn wine consumed . . . Mitdoirns, Oolumbus a resident in the Mndoirns, situntioii of tlie . . . . Mi~ilonn bo sciit, ratcs nt which Maiil post-olTice, the . . . ~almseyarMalvazia . . . . . . Malvazia or Malmsey Mannor~,good . . . . . . . Map,tlioMedici Mfirin, Doiinn, coronation of . . . . . . Muri~iovarioties of dsh .

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229 11.7

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li.

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~cts

-i11 4; tjg lhu 102 If,?

I?? 194 i. 57 i. 217 ii. $5

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- i i - 204 ii. m4

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47 i51

i. 93 . ii. i' 159 i' lGr) . i' " . i i . 25

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Mndrat vfillia or con~modities . . MRriilbg~,Annn's foroed . HaflourY ,

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PAQB

. . . . * . . . . ii 68 May-day . . . . . . . . ii . 242 Meadow pipit. the . . . . . . ii . 171 Meat tender. papaw-juice makes . . . . . . . . i . 51 Mediei map. the Mendicidade. Asylo da ii. 57 . . . i . 56 Menina. its signification . . . . ii . 46 Menina. name for an unmarried womnu . . . . . . . . ii . 24 Merces. Convento das . ij. 201 Merchants of Madeira. the responsible wine- . . . . . . i 257 Meteorological observations . . . . i 195 Meteorological observatory. tlie . . i . 51. 209 Milagres. Capella of Nosso Senhor de . . . i 153 Miles Carmo Hotel . . . . . . . ii . 20 Military Order of Christ . . . . ii. 85 Military. the . . . i . 161. ii. 227 Milk. cow's . . . ii . 227 Milk. goat's Misericordia. Capella of Santa Izabel da . . i. 51. 210 . . . . . . . . . ii . 107 Molasses . . . . i . 217 Monastery in Calhêtn . . . . . ii . 23 Monastery of by-gune dajs, a . . i 208 Monastery. ruins of a Franciscan . . . i . 85 Montluc. de. death of . . . . . . i 82 Montliic. de. raids Ii'iinchnl . Monument to the dead sovereign. the ii . 83 Moonlight excursions . . . . . . i 201 . . . , . i. 41 Morales hears of the new island . . i . 42 Morales's secret. Zargo learns . . . . . . . . . ii . 185 Mosses. list of . . . . . . . ii 154 Mosses peculiar to Madeira . Moths. butterflies and ii 264 Mountaineering. how to dress for i . 174

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286

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Mountains, among t h e . , . i. zr>iiiaa 2&* Mountains, camping i n the . ii. 3 h Mountains, the Palheiro i. 171 MountChurch, the i. I<;? Moiint sledges, the i. 167 Mount, sledging down the . . . i. 16% Moiirnera, t h e . . . . . . . . i V- , Mourning i n Funchal, t h e ohservrtnce of i. Mourning ia worn, how . . . i. $19 .- ,t Mourning, t h e six weeks' 11, Murder of Father Roderigo and nine of his b r o t h e r h r ~ ~i.i i>-.: Museum, t h e . . . . . . . . . i. I:*!# Musical instruments . . . . A * ii. l(t2 M U B ~nnd C mueical instruments ii. 61, 16~2 . . . . Music i n t h e Cathedral, t h e ií. @

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Names to-day, best family Nanling of Madeirn, rediacovery and . Naming of Porto do Seixo, discovery and Naming of Porto Santo, discovery and Napoleon brought to Madeira . . Natal day of the king nnd queeii . . Native celebration of Christmas . . . . . . Nativecharncter . . . . NaLive formalities . Native friendliness for t h e Americana . . Native industry, dealers in articles of Nntive orchestra, t~ Native swimmers . . . . . . Nntives, burial of Natives, down-trodden . . Nalivee, enterprising .

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Gd

i. I.

$2

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47 -"a*-*

i. 91 . i i . 123 . ii. 6% ii. . ii. JT ii. 5 1 . ii. Pib . i i . 69

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287

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Navigator. Life of Prince Henry the . . . i. New IIotel. the i. New road . . . . i . 150. ii . New Yorlr) ateamers fram . i. Newspnpers . . i. Newton. Frnilcia. liistory of good wine as shown i n the life-worlr of . . . . . . . . ii New-Year's-Day . . . ii . Nicknames . . . i. Nucifexous trees . . . . . . . . ii . Nunnery, Convento das Merces . . . . . ii. Nuxiiiery, Convento de Santa Izabel . . . . ii . Nunliery. Convento do Bom Jesus . . . . . ii Nuniiery (Convent) of Santa Clara . . . . . ii.

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52 150 126 138 199

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. . . . . . . . . . 11. O(z11: . Obaervatory, the meteorological . . . i. . . . . . i. Occupancy o£ Madeira. British . . . . . . . . . ii. Octopus . . . . i. Oí3cers. health. and hotel agents . Oficors of the local and submarine telegraph companies ii . Ornnibuses ii . . . . . . . . Ontornan's identity. Tvlr i. . . ii Opoiiing of the sluices. the . . . . i. Opera-house. the . . . . . ii. Opuiitia . . . . . . . ii. Oxcliestra. a native . . . . . . ii . Order sf Chri~lt.Military Order of Christ. Militwy. Prince Henry. G r a d Master of i.

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Palncio de S&oLouren~o Palheiro rnountaiils

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191 171

PAQE

Pall-bearers, the , , , . , , . i 86 Palms ii. 172 Papaw-juicemake~medtender . i i . 171 Papaw-tree . i i . 171 Parade, Ash-Wednesday's . . ii, 73 Paris to Lisbon by mil, frorn . , . i. 146 Parish churcli at Machico, the i. 209 Passage, the iindergrouiid . . . . ii. 78 Pass, Lainaceiros . , . , , i, 214 Passos, ProcissBo dos ii. 72 . . i. 121 Passport is necessary, when a . Pateo stores, fining for the ii. 213 Pateo stores, where certaiii specialties aro kept . . ii. 218 PaUl dsSerrs ii. 144 Taiil do Mar . . , , , , . , i. 217 Paving,street i. 129 Pear, prickly i. 236 Peasantry, the ii. 53 Peasants' bankers, jewcllcrs are the , , . ii, 101 Pea~ant'slionsehold, pigs, nnd the position they occupy .ii,139 inthe Pedro II., Dom, dethroaemeiit of . . . . . i. 95 Pedro V., Dom, the wise and just ruler . , . i, 94 Penha d'Aguia . . . . . . . . i. 249 People, the townsii, 54 . . . i. 57 Perestrello's daugliter, Clolumbus weds . Petrel, the ii. 242 Pliysicians iii Madeira, list of i. 263 Pico da Suna i. 250 Pico do Areeiro i. 172, 249 Pico Canario i. 173, 249 Pico, Castello de JoBo Batti~tado , . , ii. 38

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. . . . . . . . i. 173. 249 Pico Cidráo Pico de Joáo Perado . . . i 250 . . . . . . . . i. 173. 249 Pico Ruivo . . . . . . . . i. 173. 249 Pico Torres Pier i. 117 Pier. the new . . . . . . . . . ii 120 Pigs. and the position they occupy in the peasant's house. . . . . . . . . ii. 139 hold . Pineapple ii. 154 . . . . . . . . ii 172 Pine. Norfolk Island . . . . . . . ii. 172 Pine.trees. variefies of Pipit. the meadow ii 242 . . . . . . . ii 140 Plants. leguminous . Plants. list of luxuriant flowering ii 165 Platform ceremony. the ii 87 . i. 47. 213 Ponta de São Lourenço . . . . . . . ii . 17 Population . . . . . . ii 118 Population. density of the . . . . . . . i . 214. 250 Porto da Cruz . . Porto do Seixo. discovery and namiug of i . 62 Porto Moniz. lava an? baaalt at i. 230 . . . . . . . i 232 Porto Moniz. tufa at . . . . . . . . . . i 239 Porto Santo Porto Santo. a coincidence relative to the naming of . i. 57 . . . . . . . ii. 19 Porto Santo Concelho . . i. 45 Porto Santo. discovery and naming of . . . . . i. 242 Porto Santo. land-shells peculiar to Porto Santo. life at i 243 Porto Santo. raids on i 46 i 45 Porto Santo. signification of Porto Santo. the governors of . . i. 45 Porto Santo's first governor i. 56

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lnbex

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Portugal, Spanish usurpation of i. Portugal, steamers from i. Port~ga1'sincome from Madeira ii. Portuguese colony, the new i. Portugiiese general cemetery, the ii. Portuguese històrians, and their patriotie pride, the i. Portuguese the daughter of Latin i. . , , . , . i. Portuguese words , Postage, card , . , , , , . ii. ii. Postage, letter Post-office: stamp-collecting , 4 ii. Post-office, the main ii. Postscript to the Preface i. Poverty in Funchal . . . .i, . . . . . . . i. Praga da Constituic;ao Praga da Rainha i. 191, ii. PrazBres, irrigation of the ii. . . . . . . . . i. Prnzbres, the . Prediscoverers, Zargo builds a cliapel to memory of i. Preface i. Preface, Postscript to the . . . i. . . . . i. Present Iring, Dom Carlos I., the . Present manner of landing . . , . . i. , . i. Prickly pear, gerauiums, broom, and cactus . . . . i. Prince Henry the Navigator, Life of i. Prison, the county Private gardens i. Procession in honour of the dead a n d living kings, tbe . ii. Processions in Funchal, religioils ii. . . . . ii. Procissão dos Passos Produce of a vineyard is purchased, when the . . ii. Products, other , , . , , , ii. 291

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85 145 98 40: 25 97 86 86 96 96 93 95

266 68 188 124 143 217 48

7 265 96 117 235 62 200 134 84 72 7.2 210 106

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Prod~zcts.vegetable . Prostrate crowd. the . Provinces. lack of coinage iri the Public garderi. a . . Public gardoiis. the new . .

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Quarries of Cantaria Quem. natal day of t h e king and Quoen. the present . . Quiiice. apple zlnd . Quiiita. Portuguese for eottage

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i.98 ii 158 i. 118

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Rnbaqal . . . ii 142 Rabagal. lodging at . i.156 Xabbits . . . ii 223 1Ence . . i. 89 Xncking and lotting of wine . . . . ii. 213 Ittaids F ~ ~ n c h acle l , Montluc . . . . . . i 82 . . . . . . i. 46 Saids on Porto Sauto . . . . . i 146 Euil. from Paris to Lislson by . . . . . . . i.163 Railway and tramway 1% zlin . i . 256 Itainha, Praqa da . . . . . i 191. ii 124 RataoEexchange,theoBcial i 164 . %ates nt which mail can be sent ii 95 . . . . . . ii. 62 Rebeca, tlze . . . . . . i. 125 ROde . . . . . . . i 177 ROcle ia carried, how the . . . . . i 174 'fidcle is desixable, where the . . . . . . k. 179 'Rêdo should be hired. how the ROcle superior to conveyances of similar kind in other . . . . . . i- 178 parts of the woxld. the

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. R&de.bearers.how to choose the Rediscovery and naming of Madeira Beign of Dom Luiz I . Reis. charges in. seem exorbitant . Reis. the standard coin . . . Relating to the governor . . Religioua life . Religious processions in Funchal . llesidence quarter. the Residence requirement. ticket of . . Residenta' burial-ground. the . . . . . Restauraqáo Club . . . . Restaurant adventore. a . . . . . RevolutionJ Brnzilian Revolution of 1823 . . Ribeira da Janella . . Ribeiras . . . . . Ribeiro do Risco Ribeiros Ride through the streets of Funchal. R . Road. the asphalt Road. the new . . Roman Catholic CXn~rch.the . . . . . Romance in hiatory . Rase. Himalayan . . . . . Royal Edinburgh Hotel. the . Riiins of a Fran~iscanMonastery . Ruivo. Pico Ruler. Dom Pedro V.. the mise and just

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i 177 i 47 i. 91 . . ii 90 ii 90 . . i . 102 . ii 53 . ií. 72 . i 134 i 118 . . ii . 26 . . i. 162 . . ii 91 . . i 95 . i 91 . ii . 142 i 171 . . ii 143 i. 171. ii 147 . . . i 126 ii 123 i 160. ii . 126 . . ii . 22 . . i 27 . . ii. 162 i 163 . . i . 208 i . 173. 249 i. 94

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. . . . . . . . ii 72 Saint. the black Salvages. the i 246 . . . . . . . . ii 41 San Thiago. Fort Sand from the Desert of Sahara i. 255 . . . . . . i . 156 Santa Anna. lodging a t . Santa Anna to Penha d'Aguia . . . i. 250 . . . . Santa Casa da Misericordia. Hospiçio i 186 . . . . . . i . 68 Santa Catasina. Chapel of . . . . . . ii 24 Santa Clara. Convent of . . . . . . . . i. 154 Santa Clara. Hotel . . . . . . . . . . i. 206 Santa Cruz . . . . . . i. 206 Santa Cruz. by steamer to . . . . . . . i. 207 Santa Cruz. Hotel . Santa Cruz, iodging a t . . . . . . . i. 156 . . . . . . i . 51, 210 Santa Izabel. Capella of . . . . . . ii. 24 Santa Iznbel, Convento de . . . . i 213 Santo Antonio da Serra. Church of . . . . . . . i 191 São Louren~o.Palacio de . . . i . 213 SBo Lourenpo, Ponta de . . i . 156 SBo Vicente. lodging at . Saxifraga Maderensie ii . 162 Scarcity of golcl and silver and over-supply of bank-notes ii . 100 . . ii . 210 Scarletgeraniums . . Scenes by the wayside i 130 . . . . . . . . i. 133 Schools. public . . ii 28 Scotland. the Free Church of . . . . . i 112 Sea divers. deep- . . . ii. 209 Season for a freshet. the . . i . 182 Season for n stroll about town . Sea voyage to mature. wine sent on a . ii . 214 . . . . Seixal and the road thither ii. 140 . . . Seixal. lodging at i 156

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Seixal. why so named Sercial Serrado stores. the Servants . . . . . . . . Settlements. first two . . . . . Seven years' fire. the . . . . . Shade for the laboiirers . . . . . Sharks abound. where . . . . . Shells peculiar to Porto Sauto. land. . Shipping concessions for Madeira Shipping. the bay and its Shops . . . . . . . . . . . . . Siesta. the time for a . . . Silver. scnrcity of gold and . Sieter Clemeiitina. the most beautiful womau Situation. climatic Situation of the Madeiras . . . . Six weelrs' moiirning. the SizeofMadeira . . . . . Slaiighter-houses . Slavery Slaves. crcw escape by sea to Africa. tliere made Sledges. Ilie Moiint Sledging down tlie Mount . . . . Sluices. the opeiiing of the Snakes. there are no Snow Social intercourse. tlia time fur Sorrow. cannon blasts the Sorrow turned tio joy Soundings

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253 227 73 229 234 89 40 167 164 136 256 230 237 87 88 227

256

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Sovereign, the rnonument t o the dead ii. 83 Spanisli usurpation of Portugal . . . i. 85 Spiders ii. 263 Spirit, cane , , , . , . , . ii. 107 Sponge-cake i. 159 Stamp-collecting : the post-office . , . , . ii. 93 ii. 116,127 Statistics, trade . , . , . , , . i. 195 Statues . . . . . . . . . . ii. 106 Stavee . . . . ii. 111 Staves for wine-casks, Americari . Steamer to Santa Cruz, by i. 206 . , , . , . i. 147 Steamers frorn Belgiurn . Steamers from Canary Islands i. 145 , , . . , . i. 141 Steamers from England . . . . . . . i. 148 8tearners frorn France Steamers from Germany i. 147 . . . . . . i. 138 Steamers from New York . . . . . . i. 145 Steamers frorn Portugal . Steamers to Madeira , , . , ii. 112 . , . i. 138 Steamers to Madeira, regular lines of . . . . . . i. 245 SLeamship service, local . . . . . i. 218 Stock-farming . . . . . . . . . ii. 213 Stores, fining for the ~ a t e o . . . ii. 201 Stores of Cossart;, Gordon & Co., viiies and . Stores, the Serrado . , , . , . ii. 208 . ii. 218 Stores whero certain specialties are kept, the Pateo Stores, where the wines are subjectecl to heat, the Estufa ii. 202 Strangers2Cewetery, the ii. 26 Street paving i. 129 . . . i. 126 Streets of Funchd, a ride through the . . . . . . i. 182 Stroll about town, season for a Structures, deferisive , ii. 38

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PAQE

Submarine telegraph companies. offices of the local and ii Subterranean cavern. a i. Sugar ii. Sugar cane at Fayal . . . .i Sun is used instead of the Estufa. where the . . . ii. Suna. Pico da i Sunstroke. how to avoid i. Supply. when the demnnd exceeded the ii Swimmers. native i

97 212 106 249 214 260 137 197 110

Tappiug mine in air.tight compartments. the risky proceeding of ii . . . . . . . . . . Tarantulas ii . . . . . . . . . ii Telegraph Telegraph companies. offices of the local and submarine ii Tennis. lawni . . . . . . . . ii Throne.room. a Ticket of residence requirement i. Tide i . . i. Time required for certain excursions Time. the. at the Madeiras i. Tinta grapee ii. Tobacco i 118. ii Torres. Pico i. Towns.people. the ii . . . . . . . .ii Trade statistics Trade-wind. northeast i. . . . i. Tramway, railway and . . . . . . . . . ii Tramway. the . . . . . . . . . . . ii Trees Trees. ferns like ii Trespassers, broken glass excludes i 297

217 263 96 97 189 79 118 236 179 227 204 105 173 64 116 264 163 126 171 174 134

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Tryet. lovers' . Tufaandbasalt Tufa. what i t is Tunny Turkey-time . Turtles . . Turtle-soup .

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28 228 230 253 233 256 256

Underground passage. the United States Department of State. letters from United States in 1897. exports for the . . Usurpation of Portugal. Spanish .

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Value of a year's export of wine to the United States Value of commodities. rnarket . . . . . . Varadouras gateway . . . . Vegetable food. another staple Vegetable products . . . . . . Veragua, the Dwke de Verdelho. the principal wine-making grape . . ii Victory for Dom Carlos . . . . . View of the interior. a . . . . . . Vine. introduction of the . . Vines and stores of Cossart;. Gordon & Cu . Vineyard is piirchased. when the produce of a . Violet. yellow . Violin. or rebeca . . Visiting-cards are used. how black-edged Vizetelly. Henry. wine-making described by . . Volcanic formation

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Watchmakers, leading jeweiiers and . , , ii, 102 Water, drinking, . , . . . i, 159 Water-fal18 ii. 140,141,142 Watering-place and health-resort, a . . . . ii. 110 Water-spout and flood of 1803 . . . . ii, 148 W a t e r - s u ~ ~.l ~ . . . . . . . . ii. 117 Where sharks abound . . , , , . i. 112 White-bait ii. 253, 255 Why Madeira is especially interesting to the world i. 101 Wicker-work , . . i i 102 Wild animals . . . ii. 223 Wincl, northeast trade- . . i, 254 Wine, history of good, as shown in the life work of ii. 193 Francis Newton Wine in air-tight compartments, the risky proceecling of tapping ii. 217 Wine, loss of, through evaporation ii. 217 Winc, Madeiran, first became famous, when . , , ii. 197 Wine, Madeiran, liglit, tasty, moderate-priced , . ii. 219 Wine, racking aiid lottiug of ii. 213 Wine seiit on a sea voyage to mature . , . . ii. 214 Wine, value of a year's export of, to the United States ii. 110 . . . . ii. 111 Wine-casks, American staves for . . . ii. 208 Wiue-making described by Henry Vizetelly . . . . . . ii. 203' Wiiie-makiiig grapes described . . ii. 201 Wine-merohants oP Madeira, the reuponsible . Wines are stored, where the choice . . . ii. 218 Wines are subjected to heat, the Estufa stores, where the ii. 202 Wineu, M~deirsn,quautity consumed yearly Since 1774. ii. 194 Wines of inferior quality, flavouring and colouring ii. 219 Wines, the oldest ii. 219 ~~01-growing. 233 '

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Zargo builds a chapel to memory of ihe prediscoverers . . Zargo is buried. where . . . . Zargo is knighted . . . Zargo learns Morales's secret : Zargo sets forth to discover . . . . . Zargo's name. origin of . . Zargo's second expedition

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