1812-ncpitta

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A General Cailoction of VOYBGES and TRAVELS, l'orming a

i o m p l e t e I i i n o r y of tbe Oiigin aria Progrpsi tif Discovery, by Seu r n d ~ 9rom t h e ~ a r l i e s tAqcs tu tiir I > r e i a n f T i m r . UJ JUIIN PIRKEIYI'ON, Alithor of Muderii Ge0018pòy. &C. *cr í b e followine Puriionn are reanp for ne!iveiy: \;OYAGES and TXAVELS iil E U R O P E . 6 vulr. 4fo. priia 13L. 19s. i n iii,arda.

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A S l i l . 4 uois. 4to. prire81. us.iii ~ u a s d s . A S l A l IC ISLaNDS,1 vol. p i i r e S I . 1%. 6d. ~ d , . ~dr. SOOTH i ~ M E i i I C ~1l ,~ 0 1 &to. . p i i c e Z L , Y ~ . ndg.

- NOHTH AMLRICA, P ~ 0 1 8 . 4 1 0 pr+ceU. 48.

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MODERN GEOGRAPHY.

4 Deseription of tlie Enipires

Kiite
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A NEW MODERN ATLAS.

Hy JOHN PINXBRTOB. The

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HINTS to YOUNG PRAWITIONIIRS in tlie Study of

La.aiidacape PRiiifing. lil,lsirated hv 8ngiaving8, l i i l r i i d r d Iq sbon tlie dili~lelil sliiges uf the ~ e u t m i ~ i i i tTO . wiiicli are rdded, ~ n i f i u i t i o i i n in tiie A i t os ni J . iv. ALSTON, L.P. ~ s i i i t i n goii veiuet. Tiie Tiiirii Editioii. lu 6vi>. Price 7s. 66. m nolirds.

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SPEECHES of tiie Rigltt Honourable WILLIAM PITT. In 3 v o l ~ 8"" .

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THE PKINCIPLES of MIDWIFERY ; ineliiding tiie Diseases of w o m e n r i i d Chiidren. ~y JOHN RURNS. , The Secoud Edilian,mueh enlarged. i" i vol. avo. PnEe 1%

in Bonrds.

POPULAR DIRECTIONS for tlie TREATMENT of tbe

By JOHN RURRR. ni5enses 01~ o n i e n an
~

TSLAND OF IMADEPRA. By N. C. P I m , M. D. LXTXILORDINARP MBMBER 011 T I I E R O Y A L M B D I C A L 3 O E I E T r

O B EDINBUBOX, P R E S I D E N T O F T1IE R O Y A I PICYBZCAL S O C I E T P 0 8 T B E SAME C I T S , A N D FHTSICIAN

A T MADEIRA,

Naniedfrom har woods, wzlhfinpant bowcrs adwn'd, rTom faz? iVia8eira'spwple coost wc turic'd :

C y p ~ uoad s Pnphos' unles the smrling toues, Nightleave wzthjoy for fazr Madezra's graves; A shom s o f l o i u q , and so sueet on ai?, Yenus misht 6udd lier Éra~estteniple ehere. CAMOEN'S LUSIAD. CANTO5th. .

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LONDON: FRINTED FOR IONGXAN, IIURST, REES, ORME 8- BROWN;

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Ah'D FOR JOKTN ANUERSON, EDINBUIIGH.

TO XIS E X C E L L E N C Y

D. DOMINGOS DE SOUZA COU TJNHO ; AMBASSADOR EXTRAOEDINARY FROM THE COURT O F PORTUGAL,

T O THAT O F G R E A T BRITAIN j

1 N TESTIMONY OF

Profouiid Respeet for those high attainments, and amiable qunli6catioim, wJ~ichhave endeared him to ali his countrymen ; and for that ardent zeal for the In-

dependente of his native Country, which, in the present erisis of Enropeaii affairs, is equally essential to its suc-

ce~sfnldefence, and to the eniancipaiioii of the Continent :

THIS WORK

Ry his most obedient Servant,

THE AUTHOR.

, ..-

ADVERTISEMENT.

,

Thefolloroing work roas composed d u ~ i ~ zthe g perioci of studes preparatory to paduariun, as a Doctor of Medicine at the University of E&z6u13h. I have been (nduced t o publish it 6y tthe great interest, ~tihichpolitical cii~cumstunceshuwe, of late years, given to Madeira a; by that attachnzent which; as a &tive, I f e e l f o r thzs deliihtful Tdatzd; and by there being no complete uccwnt oJit hitherto publisheíl. I regret that the scantiness of the materiais znihich iC was in nzy poraer to obtain, leave the rt~orkraitlb many impe?fictions ;,for the escuse of whzch I vely on the liberal reader.

.

ICgc 9 Situation and figure of Madeira ................ Discovery .................................. 11 Aqpeit of the country ........................ Sb Climate .................................... 30 Mineral productioni ........................ 38 Soil ...................................... 43 Vegetahlc productious ........................ 46 Cultivation ............................... 57 Animal productionç .......................... 74 Rearing of cattle 79 Inhabitants ................................ 81 Language .................................. 94 Education .................................. 97 Gities and puhlic buddiugs .................... 99 Goveroment and laws 108 Military establishment........................ 111 Religious establishment ...-. 116 Commerce i19 ..--... 121 Reveuuo Diseases 123

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. . . ........................

................. .................................. ............ . ...-..--

......-.....S....... ..-.............

ACCOUNT, &c

SITUATION AND FIGURE.

TREIsland of Madeira is sitnate in 52 degrees, 3 7 ininutes and 4 0 seconds, north latitude, and in 16 degrees, 56 miriutes longitude, west of Greenwich, It is about 240 miles N.by E. fi-om Teneriffe; 360 n~ilesfroin Cape Cantin, on the coast of Africa; and nearly 300 miles N. frorn the Isle of Ferro.

111figure, Madeira is an oblong irregular quadrangle; of about 150 miles in circumfesence: its greatest Iength frona E.to W. being A g,

10

55 iriiics, its greatest breadth from S. to

N.

16 miles, and its least breadih 9 miles'.

* A packet regularly sails from Porbmoiith

for Ma.

deira a t the beginning of evcry month, and affords the safest mode of conveyance arid the best accommodation. i n a11 cases, those who apply esrlicst Iiave the choice of eabins; and for this reason a friend should as early as possiblc fix e v e v thing with such accuracy tbat n o room can he lcft for future cavil.

I t may not be im.

proper herc to observc, that, if thc person going out bc a fcmalc, she should be accompanied b g a maid-servant, .iuho ihould not perhaps be in the bloom of youth, nor above the officc of superintendiiig thc liitchen. T o prcvent sca-sickncss, n o gcneral rulc can be offcr. ed. Soineadvise, t o struggle as much as possihle against it: b y being contiiiually on ùecù in an erect or sitting posturc.

Others, on tlie conlrary, prefer a hoiizontal pos-

ture, till frequenl and short cxpcriments enable them to remain erect.

At a11 events, eating should by no mcans

be attempted, till the repugnanre t o i1 in some degrca subsides; o r voyagers should only begin i?itli sucli qnantities of food ss will be lesst liàtly t o affect thc stoinacb. Persons ofproperly easily procure lettcrs of credit orp Bladcira; but the exchange is so zuuch to their ùisabvantaçc, that it is always dosirable t o bring guineas oe dollars with them*

DISCOVERY.

+%LTHOZTGIIit

is supposcd that this Island was hnomn to the ancients, it nevertheless remained undiscovered by thc moderns for many subsequent ages. I n the glorious reign of Edward the Third, says Francisco Alcaforado, Robert a Machin, or Macham, a gentleman of the second degree of nohility, whose genius was only eqiialled by his gallantry and courage, behcld and loved the beautiful Anna d'Arfet Their attachment

".

* Ilr

Cldrke says the name o€ ihis lady has been sup.

posed by some writers to have been Dorset, corrupted by a foreign orthography into D'Orset, and thcn~einta

D'Arfet.

It may hsue hcen D'Arcy. A 2

tcas mutual; but while the pleasing indulgence of ardent hope gratified, it also betrayed, the secrct of their passion. The pridc of thc illustrious family of d'Arfet was iiisensible to the happiiiess of their daughtei-, and they preferred tlie haughty demands of ainbition to tlie gentle siipplicatioiis of love. The feiidai tyranny of tlie age was friendly to their cruelty; aiid a royal tvarrarit seeined to justify thc pside of lier parent. The consoiatioiis of ali ingcnuous mind supported Machin under confineinent, and enabled him to seelt after redross, witliout yielding to despondency. On liis release fiam prison, he learned that the beloved cause of liis ptrsecutiori lidd been compeiled to marry a iiobLcman, whose name he could not discover, but nho had carried her to a castle mhicli he possessed near the city of Eristol. Tiie fiicnds of Machiii made his niisfortunc their o n n ; and oiie of them had the address to iiitroduce tiiinsell into the service of the afflictcd Anna, under tlie character of a groom.

The prospect of tlie ucears

during tlieir rides, suggested or matured a plan of escape; aiid the liope of a scciire asyluni counteracted the imugiiied dangers of a passage to tlic coast of Fr~nce. Uilder pietence of deriving benefit from the sea air, tlie victiin of parental amhition was enabled to elude suspicioii, and witliout dclay einbarlied, along witli. her lover, in a vessel procured for the purpose. ~

~

Anxiously beiit on the successful completfoi~ of this design, Machin v a s alike insensiblc to tlie uiifavourahle seasoi? ofl tlie year, and to the porteritous signs of an approacliing storrri, mhich in calmer nioments he would havc duly obr . served. 1Iie gradua1 rising of a gale of wiod, rendered tlie astonisiied fugitives serisil~le of tbeir rashnc-5s; and as thc tempcst coiitiiiued to augment, the thick darkness of iiiyht cocnpleted tlie liorrors of their situation. In their coi~fusioii, thc iiiteiidcd port viras riiissed, or could iiot be attaincdt and their vessel drove at tlie inercy of the winds and waves. I n tlie morning, tliey found tliernselves i11 thc midst of au uilknovvn ocean, without skill to dcterrnilic

I4 theEr situation, and destitiite of knoivledge or experiente to direct their course tomard any known land.

At length, after twelve anxious niornings had dawned without sight of larid, with the earliest streaks of day, an object dimly appeared to tlieir ea;cr M atchfuliiess in the distant horizon; and wheu the grey Iiaze, which liad alternately filled them with hope and desporidençy, was diçsipated by the rising sun, the certainty of having discovered a shore was welêomed by a general burst of joy. A great Iiixuriancy of trees of unlinown spccies, iras soon ohseived to overspuead the land, whence unknown birds of beautiful plumage carne off in fiocks to the vessel, and gave the air of a pleasing dreairi to their unexpected deliverance. The luoat .i\.as hoisted out to examiiic tlie new foiind island, aiid returned with a favourable account. hiachin and his friends acconipanied their treaibling charge on shorc, leaving the mariners to secure the vessel at an anchor.

T h e wiId but rich scenery of the adjaceilt country, poçsessed great charms for guests mlio had just escaped frorn apparently inevitahle destruction. An opening in the exteiisive woods, whicb ivas encircled with laurels and other Aowering shrubs, presented a delightful retreât to the tempest-worn voyagers ; a venesable tree, of ancient growth, offered its welcome shade on an adjoining eminence ; and the first inoraients of liberty xvere there emplo~edin forining a romaiitic rcsidencc, mith the abundant material8 mhich nature supp!ied a11 around. The novelty of every object they belicld, induceci curiosity toexplore their rliscovery ; and they had spent three days in wandering about ihe woods, when tlie survey was iiiterrupted by an alarming hurricaiie, ahich carne on duriirg tlie night, and rendered them extreniely anxious for tlie safety of their coinpanions, who had beeii left in charge of thc vessel. The ensuing rnoriiing bereft theni of a11 prospect of bcing ever enabled to get away from the island : the vessci kiad broke from her moorings by the violence of

the storn~, and ivas wrecked on the coast of Morocco, where all on board were imrnediately driigged into s1avei.y.

She distressed Machin found this last calamity too severe for liis- terriiied and afflicted cornpanion to enilure. Hei- susceptihle mind and tender frame, overcome by the severity of the scenes she had passed througb, aiid opprcssed by a consciousness of having deviated fiam her duty, sunk under the afflictioiis of Iier sltuation. Frotn the moment it was reported that the vessel had disappeared, she &carne duinb with sorrom, and, after a few days of silent despair, shc expired. This heavy strokc was too inuch for the inconsolable lover to support: though watchcd over ivith the utinost solicitude by his afflicted friends, a11 attcmpts to administer consolation were entirely fruitiess, aiid he expired on the fifth day after tlie death of liis heloved n~istress. With his parting breath, he earncstiy enjoined his surviv-

iiig companions, to deposit his body uiider aven-

erable tree, in the same grave vvhich they had so recently inade for the victim of his teincrity; and 1%here the altar 15,liich had bcen raised to celebrate their delivcrance, would norv inark theis untiincly tonlb. Having peiformed thís painful duty, the surviving companioos of these unfortilnate lovers fixed over the grave a large wooden cross, o11 which they carved the inscription which Macliin had composed t o record their meianclioly adventures ; and added a request, that if Christians should at a future period vislt the spoo; they would i i i the same p!ace erect a churcli, and dedicate it to Christ. Having thus accomplished the dictátes of humanity antl fiieiidsliip, tlie siirvivors fitted out ihe, boat, wliich liad remained ashose from their first lailding, aod put to sea with the inteixtiori of returoing if possihle to Erigland; but either from warit of skill, or owing to currents and unfavourable winds, they likemise were driven on the coast of Morocco, aiid rejoined tiíeir former shipmates in slavery among the Moors. F:

Accordiiig to Alcaforado, Jolin Gonsalves Zargo, a gentlemail of the househoid of Doia 'Ienry, being sent out by that prince upon an expediriori of ciiscovery to the coast of Africa, niade prize, iii tlie year 1420, [14i 8, or 1419, $ tthe jofoiioziizg statcnzeizis be correct] of a Spaiiish vessel iilled aith redeeined cai>tives, oii tlieir way from fiforocco to Spain. In this vessel, there was one Johi: de Morales, ar. esperienced and abie pilot, rvi~omIie detairied as a pcrsoii acceptable to Eis maçter Don Iienry. Mornles, o11 being infortned of the cause of his detention, entered frecly iiito tlic service of tiie prince, and gave to Zargo an accouiit o6 the adveiitures of IlIachin, and of the situatio11 and laiid-marks of the nemrly discovereti is!and ; a11 of which he had learnt in the prisoils of Morocco from certain English captives wlzo Izad aeconpz~ziedMachin, in liis expeditiori ".

* This story is reported in a manner sornewhat different by Calvano.

According to him, aboat the year

1314,one Maçhin, an Eriglishrnan, meaiiing to ietire into "Jain, fled froin his country, nith a Lady o f n h o m

5

hi

Pt is without douht estraordinary that Madeira sliould not havr been rcdiscovered at the saine time nitli Poito Santo, an island only 1.5 rniles dislant from it, and first visitcd by the Portugucse in the preccding year 1418. Hoi~ever, mns enamourecl; ù n t the vessei in which tho lovcrs mero cmharked, was driien hy a storm t o lhe iiland of Ala. dcira, then altogether unknown and uninhabitcd.

The

p c ~ Lin wliieh Alachin took shclter is still callcd Ma.

cliiso.

Iiis mistress bcing sea-sicl;, llachiii landed with

hcr and somc of thc pooplc, ai36 tho ship, puttiiig t o sea, dcsertod them.

Oppresserl wilh sickncss anil with grief

a t seeing hersell in this hopeless statc af exile, the lady clied;

and Xachin, who ivai extremcly fond of her,

co~istrueteda cliay-l or hermitage dçdicated t o Jesus tl16 Saviour, in xliich he dcposited her renains; aod he en.grared buth their names and the cause of their arrival,

on a rede rnonumerit which hc erected t o Iier mcmury. I i e afierwards construcled a boat o r carioe, whiçh hc liollowcd out froin the t r i i ~ i kof a large tree, ia which9 ivithout tlie aiù oC oars, sails, or r~iùder,Iie, aod those

of his companions who had been Icft on shore,along with him, passe11 over t o the apposite coast of Africa. H e was madc prisoner b y tlie Moors, who presentcd Iiim t o iheir king, by whom he was sent prisoner t o tiie king

of Castile. E

2

Immediately after the discovery of Porto Sai~to, a colony was seitled ttiere, and the colonists

for suriie time, observed' a heavy black d o u d suspeiided torvard tlie Soiith \?est, whicli at a11 limes was perfectly stationary, but which' tliey believed to be ai1 impenetrable abyss. It has jiistly been observed, that a n ohjection arisei We are,

against this historywhich is not casily removcd.

i n ti~etezt,toldthat,immediately afterthe deathof Machin,

his companions sdiiçd over t o Morocco, arid that Morales was iw prison a t lhe same time ivith thim.

X o w sul>-

posing the discovery hy Machin to have becnmade about 1314, as relatcil by Galvano, from Lhe Caslilian Chroni.

cles, Moralcs must hava bcen no iess tlian 76 years a prisoner, when retlcemc8 and detained by Gonsalves in

1420.

Iicrbert piaces the adventure of Mzcliin in 1328,

whiih would increase rhe captivity of Morales t o 9% years.

Alcafurado ~>l;rcrsthe event in the reign of Eù.

warù III. of England, which began in 13Z7 and ended In 1378.

Even siipposiiig it to hsve happencù

iii

the

last year of Edward, Morales must have remained 42 years in captivily; wliieh is riot only highly improbable,

hut is evcn cantrary to the scnsc of the iiistorian, wiio supposes but a short ~ e r i o ù to have elapseù ùetiveen khe tmo eveuts.

Resides, thc records

Galvano (soe the pf-ecedtng

part

of

quoied

by

this aotc), are

Certain it is, that, on the first of .June 141g0 John Gonsalves Zirgo, and Tristam Vaz Taxeira, officersinthePortuguesenavy,employedhy Frince PIenry, arid, it is also said, John de Moraies; their pilot (detained by the formei, perhapseither in'this o r a precedingvoyage)sailedfrom Algarve. Iri a fe\r days, tliey reached the islaiid of Porto Santo, then governed by Eartholomeo Perestrelo; and leaving it, tiiey, i11 a few days more, approached the object of their voyage--tliis niysterious spot presenting tiie appcarance of a per-. petual black cloud. sai8 expressly t o assert that Machin wcnt liimself into Africa, ~ h e n c ehe a a s sent to the kiog of Castile. This last circumstance may bave hecn invented by the Spaniards, ta give thcm a better title ta t h i Island af Madeira : biit the former objection remains iri full forcc.

I t cai, oniy bc obviated by si~pposing,either, tliat Mo. ralcs advaoced a fdsehood in assertingi that 1ie haù Lhe account of this discovery from tlic English themselves, inçtead of learning it from the other slares, ainong whom the tradition rnight have heen ciirreiit for many years afier the event; or, that Alcaforado may havc mistakon thc report of Morales in this garticiilar.

111defiance of the superstltious dread ~vhlcle the very extiaordiiiary appearance of the island had occnsioned amorig the crew, Zargo and Taxeira sailed soutl~ward,p~ssingtiie point of S t Lawrence, which tl~eyiianied fiom their ship; and, enlering a spacious aiid brautiful bay, where they cast aiichor, they ventured to land ripon its shores.-Accoinpaiiied by t ~ v opriests, they diserxibarked, on t l ~ esecorid of July, at the vesy spot, it is said, of the sepulchre of kIachin and his mistress; aad, havii~g perforiiied .tiie cereiaony of returning tlianks t« heaveii for' tlie fortunate discovery o i Lhe islaiid, tkiere took possessioii of it. TVhen Madeira was fii-st discovered, it was literaliy an entire ~vilderness; groves of trees, cliiefly, of cedar, arid some of them of very great size, reacliing to the sea-shore. Afrer besto\+-irigconsiderable attciltion iipon tlie soil and other circurnstances of this island, wliicli was uitci-ly dzstitute of iilliabitanis, Zargo and Saxeira returned to Portugal witli the ru.elcome inteiligence; and gave so fdvourable a report o£

the extent, ferlility and salubrity of Madeira, tliat Doti Heiiry deterrnined to colonize and cultivate it. Accordingly, he divided it iiito t n o captainsiiips : that of Funchal, tie gave to Zargo, aiid tiiat of Maxico, to Saxeira, who, with Sargo, had discovered Porto Santo. Pn thc year i420, Zai-go began the plantalion of Madeira ; and, beirig miich iriipeded iii liis progieçs by the immense quantity of rhi~:l<arid tal1 trees, with which it was thcn every where encuinbercd, he, to facilitate tiie clearirig oÇ the surfiace for cultivation, set tiie KOOCL o11 fire. T h e wood is reported to Iiave coiititiued bwning for seven years, and so greal ci as the devastation as to occasion much inconveriience to tlie coiony for many j7ear5 afterwards, from tlie want of timber. Do11 I-Ienry, however, appears to have been a priiice of n ~ c s tenlarged and liberal vierus; not only capable a i devising tiie means of maliing iriaritirne discoveries, ~vliich iiad never been thought of before his time, blit also ofestimstiiig

tlieir vahe when rnade, and applyiilg them t o purposes the most uscful and importaiit for his country Reflecting upon tlie reported fertiiity of the soil, and tlie encelience of the ciimate of Madeira, and nith the judicious foresight of a philosopher and politician, considering both in relalion to the most valuable productions of similar clirnates and soils, he wiseiy conccived and suscessfuliy executed the idea of introducing the cultivatioti of tbe sugar carie and tlie sine into this new colony. For these purposes, Portugal resdiiy supplied hirn w ~ t h vines, and with people coilvcrsanl in their management; but he had to procure sugar canes, and persons experienced in tlieir cuitivaliou aiid in tlie process of m;iiiufacturing sugar from their jirice, frorn the island of Sicily, iilto wliich that article of culture had beeii introduced b j the Brabs.

ASPECT OP SHE GOUNTRY.

IThas often been observed that no sooner does the passenger come within view of Porto Santo, a coml>arativelytrifling island, than he instantly conjectures it to be Madeira, Abreast, liocvever, of Porto Santo, Madeira appears as one great mountain, whose surnliiit is hidden in the clouds. Reacbing the Desertas, ~vhich,fsorn the vieu. tbe traveller lias of them appear like a single island, ' lie is urideceived oi' his first error; but sometimes it is, only to be lcd into another. At length, the island of Madeira itself fully appears, wliile the otllers still continue in view. H e then discovers that these, whicli lie before eonsidesed as bigh lands, are, comparatively speaking, plains. C

The firsl view of Madeira iepresents ii. a s rocky, barren and uncultivated. I t is indeed formed of lofty mouiitains, of hills, a ~ i dfruitful vallies, which gcncrally rise with a slow ascent; the higliest points of laiid being about a niile above the leve1 of tlie oceao. I n tlie ceiitre of lhe highesii inountains when viewed fiom tlie East, is ao opening sumewhat i-esembling a crescent, mhich is often visible trtheii the middle part of the mountaiii i%covered mith clouds. The iiiagiiiiicence of tliis appearancc lias rcmiiidcd some travellers oE Irirgil's description of iieaveii'G

Panditur interea dornus omnipotentis Olympi," &e,

Tliese mountains, whose tops are general11 covered with clouds, present iir the distance thc inost picturesque appearaiice- Near to their summits are forests of wild tinilxr oi' varicus kinds unknonn iri Euiope. Under tliese, are woods of cliesnut and piiic of in~menseextent. The lower sides of tiie hills are covered witii vines; aild there tlie prosgeet exhibits a. coiiti-

*tuai siiccesslo!~of vineyards that flourish In tlie utinost perfection. The vines are trained and supported by poles, which form rows of colonades and arches, soriietimes reacliing even to the summit of ibe hilis : twining their Aexible brailches in arbours over head, they form an unibrage iapervious to the rays of the sun, The ricli colouring of these vineyards forms a very stroi3g and beautiful contrast to the town of Funchai below.

At tiiis dlstance the houses, of a vivid white colour, seem so minute, as easily to be inistaken for broken fragments of a chalky beach; aiid on a nearer approach. tliey have accurately eiiougii been said to resemble the toinb-stones of an English churcii-yard. The vessel, tkiei,, in order to avoid being bccalmed, stretcheç southward ; nex't to the souih-west ; and a t last approaches the town, hich, as well as tiic scenery above, çrows more alid more beautiful. cB

S h e aiichorage being at some distancefrori: the beach, the town still appears to greal advantage; the best liouses being the highest, and the nuinber of churches and oíher public buildings afording a very pleasing variety By this time, too, the country hoiises, alii~osta11 of wliich are in view, foriil a fine relief to tlie verdure witii wliicli they are surrounded

".

Madeiravilleii more closely examined, may be ùaid to consist of one large mountain, whore .' O n airising a t ihe island it is advisedble for the i n ~ a l i ú , or his conipanion or serrant, t o land, and to ieave a11 Icticrs of intnoduction, i n arder t o niake onquiries conccrning accornmodation. Tlic private lodg. ing houses7 ti~oughless cxceptionablc than public ones, aqe far inferior t o those to which the English are accus. bomed a t home; and the taverns arE utteriy unfit for in-

rslids. I n consequence of this, somefamiiies, vlio Intend io resido for a time in the island, bring ir.th ihem coramon furniture, as ihat is with difficnlty p r o ~ s r e d ,thougli houses for teniporary rcsidcnce are not srarce.

If thc

Invaiid be comfor(sbiy aecoinmodated on board, i t is çeitalnly hest t o remain in Lhe cabin, wiih tlie ship a l "knchor, til1 every thiug is prepared un shore.

brailcliies rise cvery where froin the sca towards tlie centre of the island, and converge to the sumnlits, in tlie rilidst of which is a depression or excavation, called by the inhabitants Rionte, which is always covered with a fresh and deiicate herùage. Many brooks and small rivulets descend fioin ihese summits, iil deep chasms or glens, nhich separate Lhe various parts of the island ; and the bcds of these broolcs are in some places covered with stones of a11 sizes, carried downfrom the liigher parts by tlie violence of winter rains or by floods of melted snow. Almost every where, the island presente the inost picturesque and enclianting appearance : i11 sonie places, huge perpendictilar rocks and lofty precipites, contrasted with deep cxcavations and chasms ; in others, prominent ridges and beautiftil vallics blended with deep gullies and ravines, containitig iinmeilse torrents of water and innumerable cascades, afford a highly varied and sublime pictilre of nature.

TEIEsalubrity of the climate of tliis island, so iiighly extolled, is greàtly to be attributed to tkie unifoimitj~of its temperalure. A regulak siicces~ioilof land and sea breezes, coo1 and purify its atinosphere during tlie whole ycar, aild cspeciàlly during tbe hottest moilths,

I-Ience, a dem-drop seldom falls, except iii tbe Iriglier parts of tbis islaiid ; and deleterious efiuvia, mliich inay arise fio111 aiiy source, are dissi?ated as soo11 as produced.

S h e scorching heat of sumnier, and the ichill of wiiiter; niay be said to be here eqoally unknown. Spring and Autumri reigii togctlier, and produce Íloivers and fmit throughout tlic year, Indeed, these xnay be said to be tlic only seasons here; as no degree of hcat or cold has, in this climate, been foiind unpleasant i

I t ia tme, that during the rnonths of July and Bugust, 11hich are here tbe iiottest rnoiiths, the hcat does become excessive iii low situatioiis: but then it is very inodernte on thc higher p a r t s o f the island, whithe; the better sort of people re~ireduring that season. í t is also true, that the Sirocco vi& the island

for a fe~vdays at a time, tisice 01- tbrice evcry year. Tlie effects of this wind, on both tlie animal aiid vegetable creatioii, are peculiar. í n mar], it occasioiis tiiir,inishcd perspirution, succccded by langiior and generd restlessi~ess: in immediate exposure to its influecce, the borly is fclt as if parched, and the air bloas on the surfaci. with a warmth like the blast froiii a furnace,

I n the same nlaniier, vegetables become darid parched, and an interruption is put to their further growth. But, at this time, thc lower situations of tlie island are fourid t l ~ ecoolcst and most bearabie.

It is moreover true, that during the coldcsk inontbs of the year, Jariuai-y and February, the winds generally hlom froin N. N. E. and, in the moiitainous parts o f the island, frequent heavy falls of snow are also apt to dake place. Tiiis severe state of weathers during some seasons, continues to occur occasionally til1 - the end of April. 011 one or two occasions, thc winter has even been distinguisbed by a severe storrn. Still, howevei; the minter of Madeira niay be said to be know-n only perliaps by a gale of wind, which Inay driue the vessels i11 tlie roads from their anchorage, or by a torrent of rain, ~vtiichproduces a rapid flow of the rivers down the ravines. But, eveii during such periods, snow is npver known to continue above a day i n . t h e lower parts At Punchal, when the tops of áhe

hilis are covered with snow, the temperature is ubout 64. T h e other months of the year are always attended by refreshiiig land and sea-breezes, ivhich, at stated periods, set in regularly, unless during the prevalence of the hot aiid suffocating easterly wiild, already mentioned. I n the town of Funchal, as in a11 other low situations, at a11 seasons of tlie year, the temperature is, except during the Sirocco, 30 or 12 degrees greater than it is found to be 111 tlie liigher parts of the island. During the sumnier months, the thermonieter in the course of tlie day, ranges frorn 68 to 76; its mediuni heat in the shadc heirig from 73 to $4.-IB tlie course of tlie summer, it sometimes rises to 80 and upwards, and during tlie psevnlence of hot riii~ds, it stands even so high as 84. Indeed, duiing the Sirocco wind, it has at times risen much higher. D

34

I n tvinter, it ranges from 57 to 65 ; its medium in tlie shade being frorn 60 to 64-I n ihe coiirse of tliis season, it falls below 57 only when the northerly winds with falls of snow, prevail on ilie hcights. It seldorn rises ahove 65, except when there are easterly winds. T h e winters the summer of length of dayj, hcat to cold to

of Madeira may be compareci to England in every thing but the aild 'those sudden çhanges from a~liichEngland is subject.

T o afford tlie invalid a synoptical view of the average ternperature he is to cxpect, during every month in tlie yeai; in thc island of Madeira, the following table is inserted fiom tlie work, 011 tlie " Teinperature of differcnt latitudes," by Richard Kirwan, E. R. S.

<'Madeira,

Funchal, lat. 32O. 37'. long. 17'. Meaii height of the tlierinometer for every i

iiionth, talcen from an average of four years' obserrations. January, February, Rlarch, April, Mdy,

Juair,

6 4 O , 18.

64, 3. 65, 5. 6 5 , 5. 66, 53. 69, 74.

1

JuIy, hugiist, Srptcnber, Oclober, November, Dccember,

73, 45. 75, 02. 75, 76. jis, 5. 69, 08. 65,

S h e following is the average temperature of Liadeira, coimpared with that of Eondoii, for t11e mliole year, as ~vell as diiring the coldest aad warmest months, whlch are Januasy and July.

'

Takiog the average ternperature of London a t 1000, the heat of Madeira i s 1319. I n "

January, 0559 ; July, 1128. T h e hottest time of tiie day, during the whole year; is between the hours of one and tliree, P. &I. and the coolest period, a few hours after miS11ight. n li

During the day the whole range oof the tilermometer seldom at any season exceeds 2, or at most 4 deprees, and frequently, for seveia1 days topether, the same degree of heat is indicated '.

* Many invalids, after fccling

thc benefit of a winter

passcd in Madeira, are anxions t o roturn t o E~tgland; and some are eveu alarmed a t the prospect af spending an intensely hot summer, i n a country so warm even dusing the winter. But as thc spririg in England is frequeotly a very trying period, it is advisable that convalescents should a t least continue long cnough in Ma. deira not t o arrive in England before the end of Junc. It is also pery unlikely that those who have had the diseari in its more advanccd stage, should h c able, after a single winfer spent i n Madeira, t o bear the siizceeùing wintcr in England. Moreover, the summer climate i11 Madeira is really of a11 others the most delightfril. T h e invalid from I h g Iand ai11 nevcr indeeù complain of heat ivhen not i11 exercisc; antl that, his own prudence will teae!i him t o avoid during the hot part o f a snnny day. Iii the more elevaled situations, a convalescent may often contiuuo eren til1 near Christmas. Durirrg this period, hc may visit the t o w i ~as often as thc arrival of a vesscl inùuces

him to t o cnquire after news, and may rcturn on horse-.

The greateçt height of the barorneter in Madeira is in general 33 inches; its least $9 ; arad i t s medium is 30. hack, If his lungs have not acquire,rP strength to eneounter the fatigues of the hill. From that time, his stay in the country must be entirely ~egulaledby his heaIth and feelings 3 and if both those are really capable of bearing the coolness of his summer residente, there he certainly may remain, without living iu Funchal, til1 the advance

d spring senders it safo for bim Ice retuse te EngBand.

MINERAL PRODUCTIONS-

THEchain of the highest mountains of Madeira has hardly any volcanic appearanceThe clouds often envelop their tops; and from them descend a11 the streams and rivuIets of the island. Their antiquity is marked hy the deep chaçms these Iiave forined in their descent between the ridges of the rocks, duriug the long lapse of time they have continued ta flow. I n the beds of tliese rivulets, also, are found pebbles of various sizes, and large round masses of silex, such as are usually found ira ilie beds of many similar torrents in the Alps, The soil, alsq o f the fields and pasturage,

grounds in general appears exactly tlie same as those oii tlie continent, wliere no volcaiiic fire has ever been suspected.

It is likewise to be observed, that very Iittle lava of a glassy liature has been discoveied in Madeira, nor any perfect puinice stone ; circumstaiices, both o i which indicate, that Lhe highest degree oÇ heat bas ~ o been t sutiered úere. Lava, however, having lhe appearance of babaltes, lias beeii Çound ; and occasionally, as at Xlachico, a village 12 i~iilesfroiii Funchal, it is in tlie âorm of glass embedded in loose eartia. From tlie excav~tioiiof the suinniit of the mountain, it has, tiierefore, been iinagiiied, that, i, some semote period, a volcano in that situatioil has produced tliis lava. I t has also beeu imagined úy some authors, Lliat tlie bay of Funchal. is a segment of a large

crater, the exterior part of which has sunk into the sea: foi; in the first place, the shining blue stones upon the beach are a11 of coinpact lava; secondly, tempestuous weather always throws upon the shore larger iriasses of the saine blue lava, aiid also a quaiitity of cellular substance, approaching to pumice stone in texture, but much heavier, and not fihious ; and lastly, the rock of the Ilheo fort, and of the landing place opposite to it, to the westward of Funchal bay, as well as that upon whicii some of the other forts are eonstructed, are evidently perpendicular fragments of thc edges of the crater, which, though much worn by the violence of the sorgc, Iiave hitherto resisted the action of the sea, by liaving bcen better snpporled, or h a ~ i n gmorc closcly adhcred together. They, nioreovcr, bear not thc leasl rcsemblance to thc neiglibouring rocks even a littlc mitllin shore. I t appearcd to Dr Gillan, who accompanied tlie Earl of Macartney's embassy, that there bac! been severa1 craiers in tlie island, and that

,

eruptions had takeii plsce from the~nat various and very distant intervals. This, he says, waç particulasly manifcst in a place at tlie east end of the island, where he found lhe csater of an extinct volcano, at the bottom aiid round the sides of which were scattered fragments of lava. Thc roclis of tliis islaiid, in general, coiisist of a blue stone, called by the natives pedra v i m , which soinewhat resernbles the whin-stone. Hn some parts of the island, too, there is a klnd of lime-stone or gypsum, but at too qreat a disiance to be used iii Funchal, whicli has its supply from Porto Santo. Shere is also in other parts another Bind of sione, which has much the appearance of grey marble, and thiough little used, takes a very fine polish,

Of free-stoiie, there are herc two kinds in common use; tlie one of a hard, the other of a soft nature.

Of the first, tlierc are twa spe61

4%

cies, one wiiite, the other grey, which receive a good polish, and are much used in Fdnchal. O i the secoiid, there are also two species, one red, the other grey, which being, from the coarseness of their grain, incapable of receiviog a good polish, are less in use,

THEsoil of Madeira is very rich ; and there is such a diffeience of cljinate between the plains and the hills, that there is scarcely a single object of luxury growing either in Europe os thg Indies, that might not be produced here. The mcst common soil is a kind of pumice stone, of ehe coiisistence of soft rock, mixed with a portion of sand and marle; and also a, dark red earth? consisting of the two latter iiigredieiits. E2

Severa1 of lhe smaller hiils consist of a daik red clay with a great proportion of a black or grey sand.

In some places, a black mould of a shingly nature is met nith; while, in small flats, at tiie bottom of declivitiea, and near the ii~ers,there

is foond o stiff clay. These varieties of soil are ai! proper for the viiie; but, being very poor in some places, tliey require the hequerit assistance of inanure ; foi otlicrwise tlie plants soon decay, or produce very scanty crops. It is, however a curious fact, rliat the lands which produce the best wiiie, are in general rather pour. I-Ience, evidently, in the culture of tlie vine, a great dea! rriuùt also depend on local sit~iation. I n some of the higher lands, there is a kind of marle, intermixed with layers of stone, rvliicli Is very pulverisable, and is soon decoiiiposed. Wkien this Ias6 soil is properly man~ired, it an.

smers for a variety of vegetables, especially for the potatoe. The soil of Madeira was for many years after its discovery extremely fertile, and yielded, in gieat luxuriante, every production of nature, especially towards the south where tlie lands are generally more flat; but it must have materially changed sirice that period, liavirig now been under cultivation for nearly four huiidred years; and in this tirne furnishirig a constant succession of crops, with the assistance of little or no mariure.

T I ~ com E of tliis island is of a most excellwt; qildity, l a v e graiiied and vesy fine; and, were it not for the vineyards, the island mould pro-

duce it in gredter plenty. Potatoes have proved, of late years, an useful pioducbon, and could stili be cnltivated to mucn g'rater advnntagc. The sweet potatoe is, incieed, noiv vcry generally propagated; is of easy ç r o ~ t h ; and, like the eornmon gotatoe,

forms a cheap and nutritioils article of dict. Yams, also, are very easily cultivated: they generally grolv iii low situations, where there is a plentiful supply of water. Chesnuts, which grow ín extensive woods, on the highcr parts of the island, where the vjne will not thrive, form an article equally usefiil. Of these and also of walnuts, some age senl to the Englisil rnarliets. 4)f the fdrinaccoiis fruits, the cucumbei., mclon, wate. ~iielonand pompioii are the chief. Tbe last is much used as an article of diet, Severa1 varietieç of pot-herbs are alço pi-oduced here with the geatest ease, such as snccory, fennel, wiiter cresses, samphire, beet, &c. The onion also grows to the greatest degree of perfectim, and to ai1 uneominon size, being extolled for its inildness. Indeed, ils growth here is so abundant, as to have rendered it ai1object of exportation.

apple tribe, Madeira produces thc commoi1 apple in many varieties, remarliabie for Iheir flavour and aromatic taste ; also peal s extremely fine and in abundance, some of thein being uncomrnonly large; likewise the mcd!ai; the quince, &c. e ) the ~

T h e orange, lemon, lime and citron grom very large, and in some seasons are found in g e a t plenty. Of the stone fruits, eherries, plumbs, peaches, nectarines and apricots are in grear: variety and abundance. O f the small seeded fruits, the strawberry, the red and white c~irrant. bilberry and inulberry are found in coo1 sitciations without nny eulture. Shese, with the grape, are the prirlci-

pal ones of this kind: and on this last most important fruit, we shall presently dmell more iil detail. I n the gardens of this island, as well as i11 the towii of Funchzl, there are mang plants and trees which are natives both of the East and West Indies ; particulaily the banana, tlie guava, the pomegranate, and the fig, wliich flourish alrnost without culture ; as also the mango and pine apple or aiianá, which have lately been iiltroduced. l'he sugar cane is not so well cultivated now, as forinerly. This cane grows t o theheight of 8 feet, having a jointed stem with leaves springing from tlie joints. Madeira, howevei; boasts of being the first situation in the Western world where the arundo saccharifera was cultivated. Tlic sugar inanufactured here, although in small quantity, is un?ornmonlg fine, and possesses a peculiar smell, resernbling that of vioiets. It was brought fl-omSici1y soon after the discovery of the island. From ~ a d e i r a it , was transplantF

ed to the Brazils.

In conseqiience of a sevcre

blight *hich agected it i11 this idand, its cultivation began to be discontinued, and to give place to tliat of the vine, as an article ot easier management, and more profitable growth. Ilence, it has ever since been neglected. Political reasons may have also had some share in its being so cornpletely giveii up. Madeira might, in short, be rendered capable of yielding the productions of every quarten of the world, from the advantage of its temperate climate aiid mild atmosphere. Pn truth, not only tropical, but also European, and even more northesn fruits grow here to the utrnost perfection.

TIIEtree which thrives hest, and is most generally cultivatcd in the upper lands, is Ihe pine, l t arrives at a considerable size, and as

highly useful for most domestic purposes. Besides, it is not nice in the soil required for its growth, and answers on maste lands. Tlie chesnut tree is ako very common here, and grows with great luxuriante and beauty. Its fruit, moreover, is abundant ; and, in times of scarcity, foims a useful substitute for the fasinaceous grains. Shere is also here a large tree, called by the natives Vinhatigo-tlie L a u ~ u s indicus of Liunzus, growing by the river's side or in coo1 situations, the wood of which cannot easily be distinguished from n~dhogally. The wood known in England, by the naine of h4adeii-a. mahogany, is the Vinhatigo. Tliere are also here two trees called by tlie Portuguese Mirmulano and Páo branco, the leaves of both wiiich are so beautiful that tliey certainly would be a grcat ornament to the gardens of Europe. ?!

2

S h c dragon tree is aluo a natíve of tEiis island. There are here lilíenise the wild olive, thc laurel, and many others distinguished either for bheir beauty or use. The cedar, lemon and orange trees are found iii &eat abunidance. They grow to an iriimense size, are uncommonly bcautiful, and yield a very fi-agrant sn1~11. The poplar tree here is not less comnion than the others, and preserves its verdure for a longer period than in Eumpe. The majestic palm-tree alço grows to a great height, Aowers and beass fruit in great plenty, thougli it never comes to perfcction ; nor do tlie seeds, when planted, vegetatc. Shis seems to prove that the plant in Madeira is a female, and that there is no male one in thc islaiid by whicli it miglit be fecuiidated. The branches of this tsee, n,Ileii blanched, are uscd as ornaments in the religiuus processions of Palm Suiiday.

h fem trees of the true cinnanron, witli three ribbed, scented leares, and a thiii fragraiit bark, are thinly dispersed.

BFSIDEStlie

trees already mentioned, ~vliich groiv on tlie higher lands of the island, the rnouritains are alço covered with severa1 varieties of brush-nood. T h e principal of these is Lhe heath, wliicli reaches here to a great size; also the broom, a liind of beech, a species oE Eilberry, vaccinium, &c. The myrtle, likewise, is found iii great plenty -the roads from Funclial bsing adoriied by their sides with rnyrtle aiid box-tree, groning nild; aiid also tlie uortle bcrry shrob, fdr more considerable in height and luxuriante tlian any which grows in Engldnd, The island aKords a great variety of indigei~ousplants.

Fiowers nursed in the English green-houses, grow wild here in the fields; and, in the hedges arc found myrtlee, roses, jessamines and honeysucltle in perpetua1 blooin ; while the larkspur, the fleur-de lis, the lupiue, violet and the balsam, spring up spontaneously in lhe meadows, and form a thousand natural parterres of embroidery.

OF the plants, too, styled medicinal, there Is great variety; as the common normwood, maiden hair, agrimony, winter cherry, lavender, the different sgecies of mint, sosernary, wild â

55

liiy, daffodil, &c. Tlie aloe plant is alço a cornmon production here, as well as the species of laurel, from which camphire is produced.

TIIEgrape, however, chiefly white, is the itaple production of this island. The vine vias introduced i n t o Madeira frorn the island of Cyprus, but at what period it is difficult to learn Chaptal relates that, I n tlie yeur 1420, severa1 European sovereigr~s were desirous of obtaining mines froni tlie juice of the çrapes, produced by thei'r doniiiiions. The Portuguese had introduced in the Island of $,[adeira, plaiits frorn the vine of Cyprus, of nyhich tbe wine was theii reckoned the hest ir1 the world ; and their attempt succecded."

It is somewhat to be douhted, however, that it rvas introduced a%so early a period.

Some

time must have elapsed before much land could be cleared or piepared for any purposc; arid it is natural to supposr that the land so cleared, would, in thc first instaiice, be appropriated to the necessaries, rather tiiaii the luxuries of life. The grape must, at a11 events, have been then cuitivated in very srnall quantity, as the island was only discovered the precedirig year.

SOBIZof the Interior inountainous parts of ehia island, belong to the crown of Portugal, andare eatirely uiicultivated ; ivhile many other parts, ~nountainous,declivotls and rugged, and severa1 ilearly clestitute of soil, are incapable of cuEbure. Though, moreover, the cultivators are indolent, yet they have shejvn instances of accidental industry, by, i11 some places, breaking on the sides of hills, thirilg covered with soil, such pieces of scattered rock as contain vegetable m~&&G

ter ; and, the rills, from the heights, being made to flow over thern, the fragments commiiiute and beconie a fertile mould. T h e monntainons parts of the country, and rihat the natives cal1 Serras, are poor meagre lands, from which they have a scanty crop oC rye, once perliaps in four years, when the soil bas beeil previously mannred by the ashes of the broom, which has been sufi'ered to grow upon it, iii order to be burnt for this purpose. I n some such places, alsv, they grow potatoes by means of the dung they procure fi,oni the cattle they feed. There cai] be no doubt, however, tliat tliese lands, though naturally of a poor quality, rnight be rendered more productive, if a proper rnode of cultivatioii nere introduced ; and by Lhe same improvenient also, it would be pvssible to rcar a greater number of cattle. One reason, perhaps, why art and iiidustry do so littie for Madeira, is, nature's liaviiig tlone

I

so much. Madeir-a, xvere it properly cultivated, might justly be termed the Garden of the world. The serenity of the climate, the fertility of the soil-every thing conspires to render it a terrestrial paradise ; and it only requires the nurturing hand of art to give the finishing to a scene on whicti natui-e has so profusely poured her choicest treasures. The principal occupation of the cultivators is the planting and raising of vines ; but, as that branch of qriculture requires little atteridance during the greater part of the year, they naturally incline to idletiess. The warmth of the climate, which renders great proviçion against the inclemencies of n eatlier unnecessary, and the ease with which tlie cravings of appetite are satisried, must addilionaiiy tend to encourage indolence ; especri~llyas the regulations of the legislature do 11oC countesact it, hy endeavouring, with the prospect of iiicreasing happiness, to infuse the G

e

8pirit of industiy. The Pai-tuguese governrnent does iiot pursue the proper methods of reinedyfng this dangerous letl~argy. It did, at one time, arder tlie plantation of olivc trees here, on such spots as were too dry and barrento bear vincs ; but it has not thought of giving teinporary assistaiice to the labourers, and has offered no grernium by which these might be induced to conquer their rcluctance to innovations, and their aversion to labodr. Wheat and barley are likewise sown, especially in spots where the viries are decaying tlirough age, or where they are newly planied. But the erops do not produce above three months provisions ) and tlie inhabitants are therefore obliged to bave recourse to other food, besides imporiing considerable quantities of corii and flour from North Arneuica, i11 exchange for wine. She nant of manure, and the inactivity of thc people, are in some nieaseire thc causes of this disadvantage. Tbey

also receive rice and wIiite lupin from the Rrazils aild other co!onies of Portugal. S h e cultivatous make their threshing floors of a circular forni in a corner of a rield, which is çleared and beaten solid for the purpose. The sheaves are laid round about i(; and a board oE an oblong squaie form, stirck full of sharp flints below, is dragged over them by a pair of oxen, the driver getting on it to eiicrcase Its weight. SIiis machine cwts the straw, as if it had been ehopped, and frees the grain from the Iiusli, from wùich it is afterwards more completely separated. I n lands rvhere hrooks ' run from tlie mouiltairis, the natives make plaiitations of eddoes, or what they cal! Inhame, enclosed by a kind of dyke to cause a çtagnation of the wat,-r, as. that piant succeeds beçt in svuarnpy ground. Bts leaves serve as food for hogs, and the country people use the roots for their own nourishrnent. Tiiey cultivak, likewise, hy the mar-

giii of these 'ills, the canc, which grows to the height of tmenty fcet and higher, and without xvhich they could not make their lattices for thr siipport of the vine aiid other shrubs.

As to the cultivatioil of the vine in particular, a free light sandy or gravelly soil, is preferable for it to any otlier, i11 consequence of allowing its rools to spread ~widei, and to draw noiirishment with case from a more exteiisive surface; while a stiff elayey soil, by opposing its groruth, ia unfavourable in the saine degree. I n Madeira, the vine is generally propagated fcom c~ittings,as the preferable mode of culture, rather thail frorn the seed,

I n former times, it was planted with the plough, to a depth pretty much the sanie as that at \r,hich tlie vine is now planted in France, viz. tliat of 18 or 16 inclies. But from tlie poverty oE the soil, and the frequerit drouglits, it is now fouod necessary to plailt it to tlie deptli of koni 3 to 6 feet, it being protected from the liard grouiid at the bottom of the trencb, by a quantity o i Ioose earth placed underneath. TVater is condnctcd by wears and chanilels into the virieyards, wliere each proprietor has the use of it for a certain time ; some having a coiistant supply of it and others on!y once or twicc a month. As the heat of the cliniate rcnders this supply of rrratcr to the vines and other vegetables absolutely iiecessary, it is not without great expencc that a new vineyard can be planted; for the maiiltenance of uhicli the owiiers must piircliase water at a higii price froin those ruho possess a more ample shaie.

l t was 6 t h great difficulty, that t l ~ c&Iadeirdns were first persuaded to eil-aft their vines, and some oE them still obstiriaiely reiuso to adopt tlie practice, tliough a whole vintage is very often spoiled by the nuiriber of bad grapes, i~hich, from neglect of this practice, are mixed in Lhe vat, and which they wili not tlirow out: because they encrease the quantity of Lhe wiile. Tbis instance of the force of habit is the more extraordinary, as they rcadily adopted the practise of engrafting with respect to thelr trees, and it is i ~ o tiincominon now t o see the same tree producing two and three varieties o i the same fruit in great perfection. Wlierever, then, the soil, exposure and supply of watcr, wiil admit of it, the vine is cultivated. Oiie or more walks about two yards wide in:ei; sect each vineyard, and are included by utone walls two feet high. Among these wailis, which are about seven feet Iiigh, and arched over uith latlis, they erect wooden pillars at regular distances, to support a laitice work of bamboes,

which slopes dorvn from both sides of the walk, til1 it is only tiiree feet higli, in whicb elevation it extends over the whole vineyard. T h e vines are, in this manner, supported from tlie gronnd, and the peopte have rooin to root out the weeds, which spring up between them. I n the season of the vintage, whiçh begins early in Septemher, they creep ilnder this lattice mork, cut off the grapes, and lay thcm iilto basliets. This rnetliod of lieeping the grolirid clcun and moist, and of ripening thc grapes in the shade, contributes to give the Madeira wines that excel!ent body aild flavuur, for whicli they are so remarliable. T h e vineyards are held only on an annual tenure, arid the farmer does not even reap one half of the produce; as one half is paid to the ovner of thc land, and one tenth pait to the king; nhile the sanic, or its value, ii collrcted with regard to every article of produce in the island ; tlie procecds of this tenth being applied toward clefraying the expences o i governM

nlent. Profits so small, joined to tlie tliougiit / of toiling so rnuch for the advantage o i others inevitably retards improvement. Oppressed, however, as the cultivators are, they havc greserved a high degree of chearfulness and contentment: their iabours are commoniy alleviated with songs ; and, in the evening, tliey assernble from different cottages to play on the guittar.

A very great variety o i grapes are produced in Madeira, such as the Negra molle, Verdelho, Blial, Bastardo, Raboza, Negri~iha, Listram, &lalvasia, Ferra], Tinta, Sercid, illuscatel, Alicante, &c. But if tliis great nuinber o i kiiids were reduced to Negra molle, Bastardo, Verdelho, and Bual, the wines nould certainly be of rnuch better quality ; the two former birids civing cliieíly colour and flavour, and the two b Iatter, strerigth and taste.

From the variety of grapes found in Madeira; it might be concluded, that there would he a corresponding variety of wines ;and indeed, fiom each of the particular species of grapes above mentioned, aparticnlar kind of wine inight be obtained; The different, grapes, however, are generdly ali inised together in rnaliing Madeira wine, except tlre Malvasia, Sercial and, Tinta grapcç ; rIie first giving a mine, which is siiperior to any smeet wine ; Lhe second, one superior :o any dry winc, and much esteeined on account of its scarcity and high flavour; and the last $ving a. red wine much of the flavour of Hurguiitly, and which is corrimonly mixed with the uortlaeril wines of the island in order to colour ihein. Tlie process ofmabing manhgi ineis extremely simple.

wa

68

~

The grapes, immediately on belng cut, are put into tlie press, whicti is a rnachine of very siniple construction, and not urilike Lhe instrumcnt used in England in the malriiig of cyder. Tt consists of ' a reservoir, a lcver, and a spindle. S h e regervoir is of a square figure, made of plin1;s of chesnut tree, and supported on feet. S h c levei goes across the reservoir, extending 5 or G feet bcvond it, ahd is connected a t its Furthest extremity, where is a fehiaie screw, tvith the spind:e; Al the opper eiid of tliis spindle is a maÍe sete*, :vhile its other end is fastened, by rneaiis of úil iron hook, to a ring fixe2 on a larse atoné, the size of which is proportionate to that of the press. Wlien the grapes are placed in the reselx%ir, severa1 Iabourers enter that part of tl-ie machine, and with thcir feet tread the grapes as 10ng as any juice cai1 be expressed froni tiiem. The juice is allowed to run into 2 vesscl placed ori one side of the reservoir, nlirough a bole, over which is general131 placed a small basliet by way of a sieve, in &der to prevent any õf tite husks, seeds, or

sialks frorn escapiiig. After this first pressure, o r treadin;;. the inashed grapes are collected into one tleap : this heing sui-iounded by a cord in close circles, and having boards and pieces of wood laid over it, is then pressed hy the lever, wliich is forthwith sunk upon it, and allowed to reixiain in tlrat situation til1 the liquor ceases to fluuc.. The lever is then raised ; the boards and cords are taken off ; the rnass, heing broken hy hoes, is inade to undergo a second treading ; and again also it is subjected to the presure nf the lever. This process is repeated a third time, for the purpose of procuring what tire iriliabilants cal1 agit(z -E, s kiiid of strong beer. Iil this last proccss, h~wever,the rnass, when broken up, is as dry as a piece of chip; and ihereiòre, previous t o treading it, it 1s necessary to add to it a r~uahtityof water, in the proportion of two barrels to every pipe tliat has been obiained of juice. Tliis rnass is, i11 ordcr to procure cgun p4, generally pnt under the pressure in tire eveiling, and ailowed to remaiir in tlrat situation til1 iicxi morniiig, wben

;

riiis irifusion is draivn ofi: a ~ i dput into casks

for iinmediate use, Tlie mailner of rnal
-

t:~lice a day for about a inontli ; aild wben the fe,rnciitation is íinishcd, it is raclted off iilta

Slle treatinent of the rnust or unfermented wine, is also siniple : it is takeii out of tlic recciviug cusk, the sarne cizy it is prest, and put into otliers in ordrr to undergo fermeiitarion, irl:ic!l begios aiinost iinmediately, aild appears by the liquor rising and cvolviiig a considerable quantity of fixed air. Tlie riclier the wine is, the stroiiger is tiie ebullition, avhicli geiieraily ceases i11 about a montli ; but still a certaiil de-

gree of fermentation continues to go on for some time longer. During two rnonths after its being transferred to these casks, it is lmice a day agitatcd with an instqurnent for the purposc. TVhen a11 fermentation has ceased, and thc must has becorne vinous, it is separated froin the sediment, and clarificd by white of egg; while tlie sediment itself undergocs distillation for brandy. These mines are not a11 of equal goodness, anil are corisequently of different prices. The best sweet wine made of the.%lalvasia" çrape, is calied in England, Maimsey : it is an exçeeding rich sweet wine, and the dearest of any in consequeilce of its scarcity. The ilext sort is a dry wine, such as is exported for the London m a r k e ~ *This viric is called by Lhe nstives >Ialvasia, aod derives iis name from a town o f 'rurkey in Europt,

whtnce this vine wasimported by order of Princc IIcnry of E>oltugal.

Inferior sorts are exportcd to Arnerica, to the East, and West Indies. About 50,000 pipes of the better sorts, mliich are cliiefly frorn the south part of the island, are exported ; and the rest being of an inferior rluality, is either mixed with southern wines for expoit, or is cousumed at hoine. That which is used on the island by the lower class cf people, is principaliy of a weak kind, which wiil nor keep long enough for exportation. As the islanders derive their means of support solely from the nine which they export, the qnantity inanufactured is increasing along with iiie increasc of inhabitants. Madeira wine is reclroned superior to any of the southern nines, and certainly coiitains a gieater pioportion of saccharine inatter, of alcoh1d and oi aroma, tban aiiy of thenl. S h e arorriatic flavonr, however, is not properly evolved; ilor, indeed, does the wule acquire its peculiar

ANIMAL PRODUCTIONS.

ALL Ihe coniinon domestic animals of Europc are found iii Madeira. The horses are in general small, but sure-footed, and, with great agiiity, clirnb those difiicult pdllis, viiich are the only means of coinmunicatiori in the couiitry. The mules are as nuinerous aiid useful. Black cattlc, sheep and goats are in great sibundance. Tlie hog, howcver, was, at one

time, the animal of which the Aesli was mosi relished in the island. These anirnals, when young, were marked by their owners, sufired to range wild among the mountains, and at last hunted and caught by dogs.

TAMEbirds, such as turliies, geese, ducks and hens are plentiful; being easily redred, from the quantity of vegetables and fruit with wliich the couiltry abounds. The animais of the feathered tribe, which live mild Iiere, as t l ~ epartridge and quail, are more numerous than the wild quadrupeds, and are uncommonly beauiiful. R o ~ l i and wood pigeons á r e also plentiful : tbe latter is of a niuch larger size, than in other countries, and much esteerned foi- its delicacy asfood,

The black bird is here much admired for the beauty and melody of it-Ù note. Of smaller birds, the island possesses a great variety, of which may be particularly enumerated the chaffinches aiid canaries. Tlie last are here generally o i a greenisb colour, though now and tlien they are ~ellow. Tiiese, as nell as goldfinches, are found ini the mountains ; and o i the former, numbem are sent every year to England. T h e swallow is also here in great abundance, at cerlaiil seasons; and also a grey bird witli a black head, which ihe naiives cal1 Tutinegro, and which is much admired for the heauty and melody of its note.

TEIEhawsbill turtle is plcntiful here, and ~vheiikept in fresh rvatcr for some time previous to use, is ccitainly not inferior to tlie

green species. There are no snakes whatevei in Madeira ; but the vineyards and gardens in . the summer, swarnl with lizards, wliich destroy great part of the grapes and other Guits.

FISHis, in this part of Lhe world, exlrernely fiine, in great variety, and, ir1 favourable seasons, the market is pletitifully snpplied with them.

Of the larger kiiid5caugl~tby the line, the most esteemed are, the dourado, pargo, cherne, piscada, bicuda &c ; aiid of tlie smail kind caught by the net and hook, there are many at ali seasons in the bays, or harbours, such as the anchovy, the tainha, the salrnonet (which is a very scarce and delicate fish,) the sea trout &c. Some, however, come more frequeritiy in slioals, at stated periods of the year, as the

75

pilchard, mackerel and mullet: herriiigs and oysters, however, are not foudd here.

Of fresh-water fish, there is otily tlie eel i the rivers are here too rapid in their coui-se to admit of any other. Of shell fish, the lobster, erab, shrimp, periwinkle and lamprey, abound here ; as also a delicate 6~11,called by the natives Craca. Fisii, home~er,are not in plenty enough for the rigid observance of lent. Pickled herrings are, therefore, brought from Gottenburg in Ençlish ships, and salted cod frorn New York and other American ports to supply the deficiency,

REARING OF CATTLE, &c.

MADEIRA generally affords a plentiful supply of cattle; and were proper precautions talten by the hrmers, to secure a sufficiency of dry provender, for seasons when grass rnay be scaicc, no want would, at aiiy time, be felt. The beef here is generally of good quality, and, during the sommer months, mben provender is abundai~t,is better flavoured than that of England ; but in winter, when the grass is bad, and there is no dry fodder, tbe meat becoines tean and scarce.

Mutton ís not so often reared liere as it ought, and is consequei~tlyilot so good as in Brirain. The flesh of the Iiid is here prcferaI,lc to lamb, aiid i s geilerally used instead of

Perk he1.e 1s not equal to that of America os Eriiain in point of fatness, b:it is certainly bettcr Advoured. I n this climate, however, all tlie quadrupeds of E~iroiien ~ i g l ~bet reared to advantagc, and b r o i j ~ h tto qual perfection as i11 morr iiorthern regioris.

THEnurnber of the inhabitants of Madeira is calculated to be about ()0,000.

The pcople of Madeira are of middle stature, and in general athletic, well made and active. As to complexion, only the first farnilies ai all resemble the fair inhabitants of northern Europe. This is the irievltable consequence of tiie irifluence of climate*. ' S e e Dissertation on lhe Influence oPClimate, &c. By

B.C. PITTA,M, D. K

82

Tlie ladtes of Madeira are in general deiicate, and have agreeable features. The women, horvever, suffer more in their health than the otlie? sex, as premature old age is geiierally tiie consequence of their early niarriages, aiid numerous offsspring. Anotlier source here of Injury to females, is the sedenta& life tliey are accusiomèd to lead; for, except in tlie suininer months, thcy seldom stir out, unless to go to chiircli, or during a rnoon-lizht iiight : their rigid abstemiousness, also, from aniriial food, on fast days and during lent, must in some rneasure injure their health. None of tliese circumstances, however, in poiut of injury, operates so powerfully as the adoption of the monastic life. This practice is here cornrnon amon; the younger branches of the first families ; and, tlie veil once takeii, they never after are ailowcd to go without the walls of the convent, whicli ofteii beiilg a poor institution, and its regiilations severe, its wretched iuhabitaiits suff'er ali. tiie inconveniencies tliat generally attend want and

poverty, adtled to a rigorous and monotonous course of religious exercise.

Shc higher classes iii Madeira, both male and krnale, are inciined to corpuleiice, and at the same time, much disposed to indolente, attended rritll a disposition to melanchoiy, and even a moroseness of teiliper. Tliougb sober i i i respect to drinlting, they are apt too often to indulge in eating to excess. From this circurnstance, joined to the seclentary life they lead, they become subjcct to a variety of chronic disorders, aiid also early arrive at a premature old age* Many of the better people are a sort ofpetite , noblesse, which in Britain would be called geritry. It is to be regretted, that, iii sorne instances, their genealogical pride renders them unsociabie, aiid coiisequently ignorant, and causes w ridiculous affectation of gravity-

The landed property is divided into estates, whicli are in the haiids of a ferv ancient famiiies, s: ho live at Funchal. T h e peasantry, as v e l l as the niass of the people, are distinguished hy ai1 olive or taivny colour of' skin, and a swarthy con~plexion. They are, horvever, well sliaped, and of hard, but not disagreeable, featnres. Tlieir faces are obloiig, their eyes dark, and tiieir black tiair geiieral!y falls in ringlets. Their çvomen are too frcquent!y iil favoiired, and want the ilorid complexion, which, whei~rinited to a pleasing assemblap oaf regular . features, gives the more northeril &ir, tlie superiority of a11 their sex. They are in general siriall, have promiileiit clieekboncs, dark coinplexion, and large feet, orving perl~apsto tlle efforts they are oùliged to mnke ir cliiilbiiig :he craggy paths of this riiouiltaiii011s country ; but Lhe just proportions of tlie body, and their large and lively eyes, ir somc measure compensate foi- those defects.

S h e coiintry womeii wcar úfue petticoats bound with red, a short coiselet geneially i e d or light blue, closely fittiiig their sliape, wliich forms a siiliple and often not an inelegant dress, and a short red doa!<, bound with blue ribbon, with a blue pointed cap : those that arc utimdrried, tic tlicir iiair ou tlie crorvn ofthe head,

on mliich some wear no covcring. T h e iaúovring men wear wide lincn tromsers, a coasse sili! t, a blne cap, wliite boots, short jaclic:s inade of blue clotli, anci in winter they generally xlear iong clo~lis, whicli, nlien it docs not rain, tiiey carry over their slioulder. Tlle country people are sober, inofiensi>e, ecoiiorii~caland capabie of enduriiig mucli liar tf Idbour; iii tlie prosecution of wliich they are often rediiced to great emaciation of body nnd debiiity of constituiioii, and tlius a prematilrc old age is h:ought 011. While the nien are cultivaiiiig tiisir viueyal-ds, tireir wives and daugh-

ters are procuring subsistence fortho cattle, aiid travelling to a cciisiderab!e distante, over rugced j~aths, to rhe rnountains, in ordcr to cut brooin for fuel. This thcg carry in loads to Funchal, and disposc of for their subsisleiice. Thu4 severity of labour, pooriiess of food, arid warrnth of cliinate, make them old in frarrne, when young in years. Tbe diet of tlie couiltry people consists of bread aiid roots, with a little animal food, aiid that chiefly salt fish. Their common drinlc is %,atei; or rgua pk-an infusion extrartcd from tlie huslcs and stalks of the grapcs aftcr tlicy Iidve pnssed tliiough the rvine press, and irhicli, n hei1 fernielited, acquires sornc tartness and acidity, but cannot be kept very long. Tlie nine fui. whicli the island is so famous, and wliich tlieír own hdnds prepare, seldom regales them. Klost travellers who have written o11 Rfadeiia, liave rcpresented the inhabitants as dirty and indoient : if ihis censure be a t all just, it

ean apply only to tlie lox~erinhabitaiits of Funehal ; the couiitry people bciiig entirely ttie reverse. The temper of the Portuguese," sajs Dr. Courlay, " in general is impetuous and irascible ; the sliglitest injury too often transliorts them to sueli a pitch of aiiger, as occasions in them serious disorders. S h e practice of stabbing, however,-tlie stigma of tlie Portuguese mtion from time in~mrmorial,is by no means couiinon in Madeira, arid if ever it be resorted to, it is only by the lowest cliisses. ATo nation is possest of more eleg3nt manners, with a greater degree of courteousness, coiidescension and contentmcnt, than the Portuguese, althougjn ppiecd undcr an arbitrary . gosernrnerit. r10 strangers particulady, tlieir kiildness arid geilerosity overflow." "

It has jusrlg- bceii observed, that tl-ie people of Madeira are iii general very rnusicdl, and extremely gallant. N o iiight passes at Fun-

clial,' or in the country, withoot serenades af guifars. The ivomen arc a!ro reiiiarkable for their delicate and beautihl tvorks in wax and in artificial flowers, which are not easily distinguished froin those of nature : they are likewise famous for their srveetmeats, pastes, &c.

30 far baclcward, however,

are the mechanicai arts, that tlie must is brought to towil fiom the vineyards, where it its rnade, in vesscls of goat-skin, which are carried by men npon their shoulders. They have no wheef carriages of any kind ; and in town they use a sort of driys or Sledges forrned of a which rnake ati acute angle before: these are druwn by oxen, and are used to transport casks of wine, and other heavy goods, to and hom their warehouses. The best houses in this island are very liigh; aiid, frorn their elevated turrets, tlie inhabitants,

l)y the help of spy-glasses, observe ciistant ves-

çels, and conjecture their destination and other particulars, As the vessels approach, faces may be recognised on the deck; and, if they be from the eastward, expectation is excited with regard to the news they rnay bring. I f from Lisbon, the anxiety of the Portuguese is not less for letters than that of the English, when ai1 arrival is from London. I n the lattter case, the enquiries after news are universal ; reports are as numerous as uncertain; and nothing is accurately known til1 the papers get into circulation, and each inrlividual resorts to tiie houçe whose letters bear tlie latest date, or at which he is the most intimate. Enquiries, however, do not end ' with tlie first reports, or the inspection oE the papers : captains oE ships, iE tolerably inteliigent, and stili more frequently passengers, are interrogated to explain doubtful passages ; to detail such n e m as, though afloat, are not circulated through the public jouri~als; 2nd even to give tbeir opinions of public affairs, parliaL

wentary speeches and political occurrences. Silch of the Portuguese (it has been obserred

by Dr Adanis,) as understdnd Engliski, are carly in their application for a bigbt o i the papers, and frequently translate their contents ex tempare to others mith a facility, correciuess, and even elegante, that surprise an Englishman, horvever well acquainted with the Portuguese lauguage-with a facility, n hich the Englisb in vain atteinpt to imitate, vlien tbey traeslate the Portuguesç into their native toiigue. T h e same writer has observed that " the character of the Portuguese is universally polite, though their manners, to siicii as are unaccnstomed to them, may sometimes aypear officious and troublesoiile. N o one meets a ivell dressed stranger mithout taking oE his liat, and feels oíierided if his salute is [be] not returned. But tlieir civilities are not confined to forms, aiid there are few but are ready to shew a stranger his way, and give him e v e y other assistamce in

his [their] power.

Among the pòor, a scaman n h o pieads that he has becn left hy Iris ship, and that, in consequence, he is without inoney and ciotlieh, never fails to be kiiidly received, and share tlieir morsel with a family who oRen feel it difficult to support thernselves. S h e rich are not less ready in offices of hospitali~y, nhich moilld he more generally proffeered, but that some accidental misconceptions have made t i ~ e mfearful lest their civilities Should be ~iiisinterpreted, or rather ,fronz an zmcertatnttJ [that they are unceríain] hoiv they may be received."

'
but this is principally to hide tRe implements of their trade, as they consider it disgraceful to be seen carrying any tbing in their hand. Such, therefore, as have ali apprentice or laboiirer to attend them, frequently appear in the English dresses. It is the more proper to rcmark this, because from the custom of dressing assassins in our English stage in loug cloaks, there are ferv ladies, on their first arrival, but suspect a dagger under every capote. Whatever rnay be tlie case in otlier parts, assassination is scarcely known in the island of Madeira." Among tbe higher orders, many gentlemen speak Englisli fluently, and have been educated on Lisbon or iii England. Some of the ladies are also not unacquainted with the language, though they are too timid to venture on speaking it : most of them speak French, and some ~ v i t hfluency and ease. Their rnodes of life are daily more and more anglicized ; and tiiere are, in no pari. of the world, characters more interesting, more affectionate, more sincere, or

more ei~nobled with exalted notions of true friendship, virtue and candour to the failings of others, than some of the female inhabitants of this island. But it is unnecessary to dwell longer on subjects of this kindí

As the iniiabitants of &/Iadeira constitute a Portnguese colony, so the language of the island is preciseiy tliat of the inother country.

I n the l'ortuguese language, cvery vowel and consonant is pronounced-a circumçtance which iendeis its acquisition casy to strangers. As the number, too, of its v o ~ i t l sand consonauts is more ilearly equal thaii in Korthern languageç, its general character is iriorc soft and harmonious. Upon the whole, it approaches so

95 olosely to the Latin la.nguage, both'in its general structure and individual words, tbat rriany Portuguese writers have exercised themselves by cornposing the two languages at once. Thus writes a celebrated aiithor, M. S. De Faria, i11both languages : " O quain gloriosas memorias publico, coiisiderando quanto vales iiobilissima lingua Eiisitana, cum tua facundia excessivamente nos provocas, excitas, inflarnrnas ; quam altas victorias procuras, quam celebres triumphos speras, quam excellentes fabricas fundas, quam perversas furias castigas, quam feroces insolencias rigorosamente do::ias, manifestando de prosa de metro tantas eiegancias Latinas. The following hymn to St. Ursula and the Eleven Thousand Virgins is a still better specimen. Canto tuas palmas, famosos canto triuiilphos, Ursula diviiios martyr concede favores.

Subjectas sacra nympha feros animosa tyrannos. T u Phcenix vivendo ardes, ardendo triumphas. Illustres generosa choros das Ursula, hellas Das rosa bella rosas, fortes das sancta coIumnas. Zternos vivas annos o regia planta B Devotos cantando hymnos, vos in~ocosanetas, Tam puras nymphas amo, adoro, canto, celebro. Per vos felices annos o candida turba ; Per vos innumeros de Christo spero favores.

s r r ~elemeniaiy branches ai' education, i~nniely,

7-

the I>oitug~eselanguage, Writing and Arithme-

tic are tolerably well taught at Madeii-a Besides the schools kept by individuais, for the aòove mentioned purposes, the l'rince Regeilt has esiablished two public oiies at iiis omn expence. As to foreiç~ilanguages, the English, Frcncii, Italiail &c. are also tauglit by privaie tenrlie!~ 31

For tlie liighcr branches of educalion, a college exists. I n it, are tauglit tlie Matliematics, the Latin langvage, Rlietoric and Moral Piiilosophy. Siiis establishment is supported bg the Prince Regent, from whom the Professors receive tlieir salaries, and no fee is paid by tlie pupils. Shus, tlie college is free in every scnse of tiir rvord,

It is to be regretted, that classes of Natural Philosophy and Chemistry, are not added to tliis establishriient. It is also to be regretted that no means are talteii to instruct tlie lorver class of people, in the inechanic arts, for though geoerally unable to rcad or write, tliey arc extremely apt ia imitation, and ingenious in mechanism.

FUXCHAL is the only city iii this islaild, wtiich has aiso severai ssmali towns unnecessary to be enurnei-ared. T h e city of Funcba! derives its name from funcho, the Poriuguese word signifying feizneZ, which grows in great plenty upon the neighbouring rocks. By the observation of Dr Heberden, i t iies i11 the latitude of 39" 33' 33" N. ancl loiigitiide 16'' 49' W.--1t is sitnate on thc ,

sonth side nf the island, in ttie centre of a spa-

çlous valley, opeii 'to the Atiantic Ccean, and surrounded hy lofty mountains, gradually ascending to a gieat liejght. Funchal, however, is open only on tEe s o n t ~ ~ t o the sea, and is defended on the N.N. TV. and N- E. hy imn3ense mountains, \*liich, towards the north, are a mile in perpendicular height ahove the levei of the ocean. The sçattercd edifices of Funchal being whitc cxternally, forrn a pleasing eontrast tvith tlie evergieens and plantations which, at ali points, meet the eye. Funchal coritains about thirty thousand inhahitants : the town is, tlierefore, by no means small. The streets and houses are, ho~vever, irregular. Those of the principal inhabitants are rery large, and posse6s elegaiit galleries in front ; but those of the cornnion people are sinall.

entering the town, therefore, it loses rnucir, an Englishinan would perhaps say, ali itç beauty. 011

There are scarcely ariy reçular sti-eéts. The lai-ge houses are indiscrirninately mixed witli the small ; and tlie pavemeiit resembles that of ihe country towns in England. I-Iowever, thougll little pains are talien to Itecp it clean, it cairilot be called dirty. Most-of ttie streets are on ?

a declivity, and have currents of clear water running through them, with a rapidity that wasties every tliing before tiiem. S l ~ euse d carriages not bei'ng general at Madeira, tlie inhabitants are conueyed in cliairs and palanquiiis.

At Funchal there is a delightful mall, with severa1 roxs of handsorne poplar and orange trees, at tho exbemities of which are situate the Catheclrai and the Convcnt of Fiariciscaiis, aiid on its çides, the Infirmary and the Theatre. S h e Cathedral i5 a noble edifice, and is internally osnainented in a most costly style. It

is a stone stiucturc, on each sIde 'of which there are four srnall chapels elegantly ' ofn'amented, arid at the upper part two largcr ones. 0fthes.i. one i11 particular, is aoi.t1'iy o f iiotice for i t s magniricence, the walls being cbiefly lined ivith marble, and hung rritli fine' tapestry and pictures, tiie altar covered by cloth of gold tissue embroidered with precious stones, and hung round rvith curtains of sllvcr tissue, the candle-. sticlis of solid silver, four feer high, as also tlie palisade, and tlie ceiling beautifully encrustcci wiih rnosaic, &c, The Coiiveiit of St Francis, tlie only one of the isiand in ~ ~ b i cn2ei1 h are received, is anelegant biiilding, and very spxious. It has also a b c a u t h l gardeii. Its cbiirch is iiea: and finished in tlie modern taste. Iii this conveiit, there is a sliigtilar curiosity-a sriiall cliapel, called tlie chape! of Ghosts, t l ~ c~rholeofwhich, both sides and cieiitig, is coinposed of human sliulls and tliigh bones ; the thigh bbones being laid acsoâs

each other, and a skuil placed in each of tl~e four angles. TPe plan of the Infirmary rniglit be adopted in some countries as a model. It consists of nlany long rooms, on one side of wliicli are tiie windows : tbe other side is dividcd into wards, each of wliich is just big enougli to contain a bed: beiiind tliese waids, and parallcl to tlie room in whicl? tbey stand, there runs a long gzllei-y, wit11 wliioii each mard cornmunicateç by a door, so that elie sick may be separately supplied wjth wbatever they want vrithout disturbIng their neigl~bours. Excellent, Iionevcr, as this Infirmary is, iL is to be regretted, that it is very badly conductcd, especially in the surgical departnient. Opposite tlie Infirinary í s tlie Theatre, wliich iç internally elegant, and bas a numerous and respectable establisiiinent of Poriugiirse and Italian actors.

For rromen, lilese are novv only two convents on tlie island. Of tliese that oE St. Clara is simple, cuireiliely neat, and nell cndovved. That of Merces is a miserable establisliment.

On the top of tlie rnountaiii, t i m e i? also a megiiificcnt church dedicated to the Virgin, and eacli of the remaining parishes has also its appiopriate onc. The ,grouil8 íioor of the bouses in Funohal is appiopriaied entire!y to wine and other stores ; and, i11 the nost - public streets, the front of bhis Roor is çenerally divided into shops. If tliere be tn-o flnnrs above, the first is usually intended for servants' chambesa and oth.er of6ces. The upper floor is tlie mosl lofty, each roam being heiçhtened in the centfe by a cove of the roóf. They have, besides, high tursets commanding views of the surrounding country a ~ i dof the sea. Tlie older hoiiscs have plain ~ l a s t e rmalls ~ ~ i t l i o uaiiy t ornaillent, the ceiling beinç of nood, because, til1 latcly,

110 stucco xas

íntroduced suficiently good to adhere horizontally. The modern, however, and even some of the old houses are now enriched with pannelled walls, and their ceilings are decorated. Formerly the Madeirans were satisfied with lattices instead of glass windows; but such is the increasiiig wealth, and taste for luxury, that feng exceptiug the puorest, are found without sashes. Thc airy part of the town of Funclial affords tlic most desirable re~idcnce during winter. Those who arrive from Englaiid at that season, tire generally so pleased with the verdure of the hills, and tiie softness of the climate, that they prefer a house in the country ; but it is to be reinembercd, that no house beiiig furnished with fire places excepting in tlie kitchen, nor fitted up with that iiicety which tIie uncertainty of an Englisll climate requires, an occasional cold N

day is fclt, and the rnore so in proporkioii as the situatiori is more elcvated*. About a mile or two from town, while the slty is for thc most part unclouded and of a beautirul tint, thc counti-y is covered witli vincs, excepting here and there a few paiches of yams and of the smeet potatoe, and, in othcr parts, of wheat, vvhose yellow appearance at an early part of the sumrrier, serves to hcighten the ver-

*

í t is scarcely nccessary to remind the invalid, a h o

ventures t o visit abroad, t h ~ tthough the ercnings are milder here than in many regioiis farthcr southward, qct there niust e$er be a diffcrcnce between the tempersture of a cronded room and tiie opcn air:

or that thcse in.

convenieuces are mach incrcased b y tlie nature of Engliah socicty in Mailcira; the parties being alnrays large, and the invitation for dinner, usually iiot brcalring iip bcforc supper.

I f a n invalid be seen a t one of

them, a n invitation t o others is the consequence, wlricli he can tlien with difficulty dcclinc.

It is perhaps better

t l ~ a an t invalid should, til1 zomctime after his arrival, avoid a11 visits, unless his house be so sitilate as to inùucc siiigle people, o r small t i a parties, t o pky their vi-

dure of tlie scirrouilding scenery. By tlie steepness of lhe mour?lain, too, a11 aroulid Funciial, no house, however near, can prevent Lhe one above it from receiving delightful breezes from the sea. sits ?o h;m.

Neither must a laudable anxiety of seeing

the island be renùercd prejudicial t o hcalth. The pagedntry of religions processions of nuns, cercmonies in the chuzches or convents, are all, it lias ùeeii j o ~ t l yobserved, attendcd with a fatigue highly injuriaus t o such as havc madc so long and sxpensine a voyage for health. S h e processions, too, are inostly in thc evening, a little before siinsot.

T h e invalid is, therefore, invited h y some

frienù t o dinc a t his honse wherc the spcctarle may pass; here he meets a lar@ party ; rvaits with an impatieoce which often produccs a degree of irritation in a weak habit; and, at the vcry worst part of the twenty fonr Iionrs, exposcs Iiimself t o the window, after 1)eing hoated perhaps by a crowded room, and a still more crowùed table oC hot prorisions.

T h e other ceremouies are at-

tcnded with iiofur(5cr inconvenience, than thelength of time the atteiidancc rcquires, and the unwhoiesome air ihe paticrit must breaihe, from the great niimber af poo-

ple In t i ~ esame plnco,

SHE Portuguese Governar is at the head of all the civil, and the British Commander at the head of a11 tlie miiitary affairs of this island. The Corregidor is the chicf civil magistrate appointed by the Icing of Portugal. IIe is sent from Lisbon, and holds his place during the Kiiig's pleasure, but seldom retains it longer than three years, at the end of which another is appointcd. 411 causes come to him by appeal from infecior couats. A second jiidge sent fi.onk

Lisbon, í s called at Funchal Juiz de Fora, and, in tbe absence of the Corregidor, acts as liis deputy. A third judge, perinanently resideilt in Madeira, superintends the interest of orphaiis. I n Funçiial, there is also a numbei of magistrates of policc, wlio are changed every tiirec months. Their çgstern, however, is badly organizcd. I n the disposition of property, no fatlier can make one child his sole heir ; but must leave to a11 his childrcn an equal inheritance, except in the case of entailed estates. Tlrith regard to the Iam of debtoi- and creditar, tiie iatter can seize property for rent, or other debts, but he cannot iniprison the debtor.

As to the criminal law, theft and minor crimes are judged by the criminal court, the Governar, Corregidor and Juiz de Fora pre-

siding. The accusers aud defendcr's advoc~tc aud attorney also attend such trials. Shose who coniinit minor crimes, however, are ilot punished witli death, but by confinement or exile. Tlie Corregidor is generally also sppoiiited as conservador, or judge foi- the Britisli factory.

The rocky shore of tlie islaild of &Ladeira," says §ir George Stauuton, " and the violei~t surge constantly beatilig on it, forni a natural defence agaiiist invasioil. TVhat art fias added at the capital, which exteiids three quarters of a mile along the beach, and nearly half a inile in depth, consists, as Captain Parish observed, in four srnall forts. One situated ai ehe eastern extremiiy of the beach of Eunchal, mith a perpendicular hheight rislng immediateiy in Its Tear* This fort stands so low as to be exposed to the fite of shipping ; although an oppo~.tunity of-

fered of occupying an height ciose to i(, wliere rnight be erected a very comrnanding work. This fort is called St. Jago. That of St Lawrence, within two hundred yards of the wcstern extremily of the town, is an irregular worlc, whose gieatest length is about one hiindred yards, and its breadth nearly as much. I t has three small bastions and a battery toward tbe sea, and flanlring the beach. Shis is occupied as the residente of tlie governor. r1 third, called Peak castle, is situatcd at the north-west angle of the town, upon a Iiill, distant about half a miie from the shoie. I t is very ciificult of access from the southrvard ; but if the hili above it were once gained, no formidable resistancr could be expected froin it, as it is cornpletely overlooked. Tlie fourth fort stands upon the Loo rock, higher than the largest sliips, but by no meaos sufficientiy so, to warrant the disposition made upon its snrninit. T h e guns are crumded together en barbette; and lhe little parapet, over which they look, appears unequal to resisl a cannon shot.

' T h e beach inay further be defended by a dlrect line of miisquetry from a low line built tvall, on which a ferv guns are mounted at intervals, and which has occasional projections that afford small flanks. This line appears inadequate for defence, when troops are covtrcd, in their landing, by inen 'of war ; but the constant surge, upon the beach, would prove a powerful assistant in obstructiiig the managernent of boats in an atternpt to Iand. Tt is said that a very convenie~it landing-pldce may be found about two miles to the westward of Funchal bay, round the Pico ria crua,perhaps at Praya. From hence tmo roa& lcacl directly to Funchal ; one ascending into tlie vailey under the Peali castle, from which it is enfiladed. S h e other keeps the shore, and would, perhaps, be preferred, as less exposed to thc fire of the Peak castle, and as hting shekered, in a. great degree, by the interveniiig buildings, Erom the fire of St. Lawsence.

Lhe lilic wall, extending from the sea to the Iieight on wiiich is situated Peak castle, is iiot of a better construction than that of tiie beach, aiid, being destitute of cannon, would make but a feeble resistance. T h e Peak castle seems to agord the principal defence; it is mel1 huilt, and in tolerable repair. Its walls are of a considerable height; but it has no ditch ; and it is completely commanded from the rear. About "

twelve guns are mounted on it, of different calibrcs and constructions, generally, very 01d p u s of Eoglish malie. Such, too, are all the cannon of the place; aiid their carriages are quite out of repair. Most of the merlons aie of stoue, generally, from tnro and a half to three feet thick. I n the Peak cnstle there is a smali. ai mory, containing about one huodred and frfty staiid of arms, and three brass field pieces of Engliùh construction. The forces on the island are, of regulars one hundred and fifty artillesy, and as many infantry ; with tivo thonsaild militia, who are oc"

easíonally under arms. They are formed into two battalions, and are obliged to clothe themselves in uiiiforms : also, ten thousand irregular militia, ~ t h oare not so clothed or exercised; but who, ori consideration of their being at no expence on that account, are obliged to repair highways, to take charge of signals, and to do duty in the garrisons. They are divided into three districts, each commanded by a colonel ; and subdivided into companies, with a captain and lieutenant to each." Since the above mas written, the old fortifications have been greatly repaired and improved ; four additional ones have been constructed ; the native military force has been encreased; zmd the whole island is proiected by severa1 Bsitish regiments.

A

is at the head of the ecclesiastical establishment; and his income is considerably greater than that of the civil Govemor. It consists of i 10 pipes of wine, and 490 bushels of wl~eat,which upoil the whole, it is said, amounts to five tlio~isanda year. The Dean has about a thousand a year : lie presides in the bishop's ubsence, and also in tile çhapter, ivhich contains I 6 canons. RISEOP

Thc secular prikstts o11 the island are ahout &o hrridied, some of tkirm, as liteiary inen, haring graduated at the aniversity a i .Co,imbra, aie employed as tutors and as advocates. The sludeiits on thc isldud, as well as the priests, are distinguished froiri the other inhahitants, hy ~vcaringblack go~viis. The convent of SI. Francis is occupied by the friars of that order : they gradually diininisli in number, and only about 40 are at present to be r'ound. I t is, howevei; but justice t o quotc the observations made by Captain Cook on his visit to them. " W e visited," says he, " the good fathers of this convent on a Shursday evcning, just before supper-time, and tliey receivcd 11s P ith great politeness aiid Bindness : ' W e x+ill nol asli you, said they, to sup with us, because we are not prepared, biit if v o ~ iwill come tosnoirovJ.j, tliough it is a fase witli iis, we ~vill have a turiíey roasted for you7-Shis invitation, uhich shewed a liberality of senliriicnt, ilot to

have been expected in a convent of frlars at this place, gratified us mucli, though it wras not jn our power to accept it. We visited also a convent of nuns dedicated to Santa Clara, and tlie ladies did us the honour to express particnlar pleasure in seeing us there. They had heard that there were great philosophers ainong us, aiid not at a11 knowing what were the objects of phiiosophical knonrledge, they asked us several questions that were absurd and extravagant in the higiiest degree : one waç, evhen it wnuld thunder? and another, whether a spring of fresh water was to be iound any where within the walls of their convent ? It will naturally be supgosed that our answers to such questions were not satisfactory to the ladies, yet &ir disappointment did not the least lessen their cívility, and they talked witliout ceasing during the wliole of our visit, which lasted for an hour."

THEbalance of trade to tlie island of itladeira is rnuch in favour of the English.

Swenty trading houses of great solidity, whose acquired fortunes ultimately centre in Great Britain, constitute the present British factory. Their irnrnense capital, avoiued integrity and comrnercial knowledge, have stifled competition, and left them in the almost enlire possession of the trade. Heriry Veitch, Esq. a penileman of higli respectability, is the present British Coiisul ; and,

r~zithmeritorious zeal, watches over the interesf of the British, who are residcni liere. The British merchants in this island, like those at Porto, attach themselves to the cultivators of the vine, and supply them, in advance, with whatever can contribute to their necessities. They are remarkable for their hospitality to strangers ; and their houses are open on the slightest recommendation for the reception of travellers on the island, or passengers v h o rtop there, for refreshments in their w7ay to AmericaWest Indics, &e.

T h e Judge of the Customç is the collcctor of rhe Icing's custoins and revenucs, ~vhichamount to avery considerable sum. Shis revenue arises, first from tlie telitil oi' a11 tlie produce of the island, belonging to tlie ICii~g,by virtue of his office as grand niaster of the order of Christ ; çecondly, from twcnty per cciit. duties laid on all manufactured goods, and five on a!l provisions imported ; thirdly9 fioni ten per cent. charged on a11 exports ; and lastly, on ten per cent, o i property tax, 6

iee The greatest part of this sum is applied towards the salaries of civil and military officers, professors &c. and for the maintenance of public buildings, &c.

The duties and taxes, however, producc a revenue to the TCing of Portugal of near L.gQ,OOQ n year ; and it rnight be easily doubled by thc produce of the island, if advailtage was taken of the excellence oÇ the climate, and the amazing fertility of the soil-an object 12 hich i s iltterly neglected.

Mild as the climate of Madeira is, its diseases are, doubtless, sufficiently numerous. The most important of thein, however, are affections of the chest, and diseases of the slrin, with a brief account of which it is alone proper to trouble the general reader.

Gatarrh and Pneumonia, under somewhat vasied forms, occur at Madeira. But the chief sffection of this nature, to which even the naP2

tives are occasionally subject, is Plithysis Pulmonaiis or Consumption. O n its symptoins and treatment it is iiot necessary here to dwell. l t is, on the cotitrary, niy object liere niereiy to point out a circilnislance, any mistake with regasd to which çvould be fatal to consumpiive persons, who from England visit this island. T o phthysical patients, Madeira is peculiarly adaptecl, morc especially as i t is defended from those northern blasts cvhich visit every part of Enrope, and even tlie Mediterranean islands, dnsing the winter ; and which, though not frecluent, are, when they do liappen, sufficient to clestroy a11 the advantages that a residence of severa1 n~onthshad produced. Indeed, in ai1 cases of scrofulous consumption, in which the patient does not idly delay, after being advised to leave Englaiid, physicians can with certainty promise him a cure. I n a11 snch cases of consumption iiot too far advauced, the cliiiiate of Madeira does

ias prove a certain remedy. The causes assigned for this constant success are : first, the equal, temperature of the climate ; secondly, that the lungs are not irritated hy any particles arising from an open fire, or by tlie contraction of the skin from a partia1 access of air, produced by artificial hcat ; and thirdly, that the roads being paved, and no wheel carriages used ir1 the most inhahited part of the island, those clouds of dust ilevcr arise, which dry meather produces i11 other parts of tbe world, and which are alwayç found injuriou to weak er diseased lungs. But if Madeira be not repaired to in the earlier stages of the disease, it mil1 he repaired to in vain. I n tlie last stage, neither physical circumstances nor human skill can avail. Let no one, thcn, he misled hy the alusurd and dangerous statement of some", that because the early stage of consumption is of ai? iiiflarnrnat~r~ nature, therefore the climate of XiIadeira (warm-

" See a Tseatise on Consumption

by a Dr Sanders.

er, doubiless, than that of Britain) is iiot to hc had recourse to in the early stages. Such per-

sons are ignorant that &ladcira is visited not o11 account of the degrec, but o11 account of the equability of its teinperature. It is indeed the ~rinterof Madeira froni November to June, as as it is the summer of the South of Euglaild, that is best adapted to a11 stages of consumplion. DISEASES OF TDE SKI-J,

Elepliantiasis is the chief disease of this kind, wliich occurs among the ndtives of the io~ver class at Madeira. This disease alone is lierc mouthy of particular noiice, for tlie purpose, as in the preceding paragraph, of poiiiting ou6 an erros, not indeed dailgerous, hut extremely ridiculous.

For the cure of this disease, some " have reeommendcd the commoii Iizard. They say

* See Dr Gourlay's Pamphlet on Marleira.

In case IIe

that this animal acts as a stimulatit; I>ut \+c Bnom that the flesh of reptiles is much less stimulant than that of quadrupeds and birds. I n trutli, it can only have operated by the fear and disgust its use must have produccd ; and indced the symptoms of fear were ihe only symptoms occasioned. That a man should both perspire and evacuate urine when forced to cat a Tare
is by no means wonderful:

the eating of a raw toad or rat would have produced similar effects. l[< however, thcse physicians can obtain success b such contrivances, it is a11 very fortunate. Fortuiiately, Elephantiasis has nothiilg contagiou~in its nature, aild forms no source of

he says

'' I prescribed for

a rnw lizrcrd evory morn.

Ing''!!! TheDoctor's herc sayiiig that he prcscribed f o r a rarv lizard, may perliaps inducc some of our more innocent readers t o ask, Whut it was that he prescribed for the lizard! aud, in the midst of aucli absurùities, to pcstion ivhether hc prescribcd the patieiit for the liíard, or the lizard for thc pxticnt?

appiehension, in any êountry, to those who avoid its well Irnown causes. Diseases of the skin, horevci; are those soiely of the iowest classes in Madeira ; and their existence must be ascribed to their iiiiproper diet, consisting often of &trid fish, espccially duririg lent, and to the negligente of the police in the inspectioh of marketç. As diseases of the sliin affect tlie lower classes, so Apoplexy atid Paralysis ofien affect the liigher classes, arising, doubtless, froin a luxiirious mode of living, and an indolcnt life.