162 Artigo_english.docx

REFLECTIONS ON TECHNICAL DRAWING APPLIED TO FASHION EUSTÁQUIO RODRIGUES DE ALMEIDA1 RODRIGO BESSA2

Review: In the production of an item it is considered important that the fashion designer knows the technical representation of the artifact by drawing, since this provides concise data and requirements for the execution of a given design project.After the stylization of the sketch, the technical file is a constitutional tool in developing a product. This document contains all necessary information for execution, tending to consistent result to the suggestion.There are many sectors that use technical drawing as an essential artifact in the execution of their projects. But the implementing arrangements are not restricted to a particular market.Departments such as buildings, mechanics, architecture, among others, use a standard graphical language in representation of the designed structure, with the research support and information the nonprofit agency ABNT (which means, Brazilian Association of Technical Standards). In these sectors, the technical design follows norms and technical regulations in all its representation, always with the purpose of being the main link of communication between the design team and implementation team.However, this article says with conviction the lack of parameters and foundation in technical regulations and standards in the fashion design area, which is absent from a singular language and without universal and standardized technical support, which should be established and / or suggested by the competent body. Keywords: ABNT. Technical drawing. Fashion design. Datasheet.

INTRODUCTION The history of design basically starts with the history of the human kind, as the representation of a graphic language has always been present in the evolutionary path of humanity and exerted great importance in the development of communication and social expression."In the history of humanity, even before writing represents reality, men used to draw."(OLIVEIRA; GARCEZ, 2004, p.74) The drawings can be described as a fundamental evolutionary process to communicate ideas. “The drawing begins in the imagination, before being a practical way to generate or communicate an idea.” (HOPKINS, 2011, p.7)

1

Graduação em Design de Moda pela Faculdade de Divinópolis (FACED- FAD- MG), (2012). Atualmente é instrutor de formação profissional - SENAI - Departamento Regional de Minas Gerais (História da Indumentária / Desenho Industrial e Ilustração / Planejamento e Desenvolvimento de Coleção / Costura / Modelagem / Corte). E-mail: [email protected] 2

Doutorando em Design (Universidade Anhembi Morumbi - São Paulo). Mestre em Educação, Cultura e Organizações Sociais pela Universidade do Estado de Minas Gerais - UEMG (2008) . Pós-graduado com especialização (Lato Sensu) em Moda e Estudos da Indumentária pela Universidade Estácio de Sá - RJ (2002); Pós-graduado em MBA (Lato Sensu) Marketing e Inteligência de Mercado pelo Pitágoras (2013), Licenciatura em Letras: Português/ Literatura pela Universidade Castelo Branco (2012 ), Licenciatura em Gestão e Negócios pelo Programa Especial de Formação Pedagógica de Docentes no CEFET - MG (2011); Graduado em Administração de Empresas pela Universidade de Itaúna - MG (2006); Graduado como tecnólogo em Formação de Ator (Teatro, TV e Cinema) pela Universidade Estácio de Sá - RJ (2000), Graduação como Tecnólogo em Cinema pela Universidade Estácio de Sá - RJ (2001) . Atua desde 2007 como professor universitário do curso bacharel em Moda ( FACED / FAD -MG ), e desde 2014 leciona no Pitágoras (Divinópolis) nos cursos de Comunicação Social. E-mail: [email protected]

A short definition of “drawing” is known also as the representation of a particular episode, space and / or object through lines, points and shapes by using techniques of perspective, proportion and filling on a plane. (LUPTON and Phillips, 2004) ABNT (Brazilian Technical Standards Association) is the Brazilian agency that establishes the main normalizations to support the execution of technical drawings, consequently promotes the interpretation, production and scope as the projection is. This article aims to investigate how the technical design should provide accurate information and avoid distortions of communication to get its purpose.To get it, it is necessary to raise the question whether the fashion designs should be an instrument with a universal language, based on standards and technical regulations or not. This will avoid ambiguities in the interpretation, leverage the consistency possibilities between what is desired by the design team and executed by production team.

1 STANDARDS AND TECHNICAL REGULATIONS FOR A TECHNICAL DRAWING The execution of a technical design requires details and external perceptiveness from a designer who aims to convey all the direction to be followed during the process of production of an item through the projection.To the total exclusion of ambiguities in subsidies transmitted in the technical design, the universal language is essential. ABNT (Brazilian Technical Standards Association) is the Brazilian agency that establishes the main normalizations to support the execution of technical drawings, consequently promotes the interpretation, production and scope as the projection is. According to the ABNT3 website, approximately 20 standards are set by ABNT directly held to the projection of a technical drawing (FIGURE 1).

Figure 1: technical design in accordance with the standards NBR 8403, NBR 8402 and NBR 12298. 4

"ABNT is the National Forum for Standardization for recognition of Brazilian society since its founding in September 28, 1940, and confirmed by the federal government through various legal instruments.[...] The ABNT is responsible for the publication of the Brazilian Standards (NBR), arranged by Brazilian Committees (ABNT / CB), Sectorial Standardization Bodies (ABNT / ONS) Commissions and Special Study (ABNT / CEE). Since 1950, ABNT also operates in conformity assessment and have programs for certification of products, systems and environmental labeling.This activity is based on internationally accepted guidelines and technical principles and 3

4

Tecnologias e materiais. Disponível em http://www.abnt.org.br/tecnologia-de-materiais , searched in 30th November 2016. Figure Source 1: https://projetosmecanicos.wordpress.com/2011/10/05/116/ , searched in 30th November 2016.

grounded in technical structure and multidisciplinary auditors, ensuring credibility, ethics and recognition of rendered services. "5 The designer must be able to answer any kind of question and production doubts through the information contained in the technical drawing. As well as those involved in the production process must be able to read the illustration.Based on the need, which has become common facing the industrialization and mass production, some standards are needed to support the transcription of information designed in technical drawings and facilitate the understanding and interpretation. “In an economy where competition is fierce and where the requirements are ever-increasing, companies rely on their incorporation capacity of new product technologies, processes and services. International competition between companies eliminated the traditional advantages based on the use of abundant factors and low cost. The increasing standardization is used as a way out to achieve the reduction of production cost and the final product, while maintaining or improving quality."6 Thus, the body of standardization and technical regulations states methodologies that are made to establish principles and guidelines that overlap processes, products and services, and aim the excellent ordination. Technical regulations are more stringent, although it establishes principles and as a rule, the difference is that they are legal documents, guided before an authority that compels compliance, product, service or parts of them. "In fact, the theoretical or practical knowledge, lacking the means for its conservation and transmission, means little to itself. Human work becomes material by means of procedures, rules, instructions, models, which can be repeated taught and learned. Without this fundamental condition - the expression of knowledge in rules understood by the other - the material civilization is unable to reproduce. Teaching and learning to create are acts that require a common language."7 By establishing a guideline to follow, the body of standardization and technical regulation aimed at the benefit of industry and consumers. So the rules are necessary benefits, which are in addition to standardizing the manufacturing processes, reduce costs and meet the compulsory technical regulations also contribute to the consumer who is supported as the highest security in the use of the product and practicality established by standardization.

2 TECHNICAL DRAWING APPLIED TO FASHION There are many sectors that use technical drawing as an essential artifact in the execution of their projects. But the implementing arrangements are not restricted to a particular market. Departments such as buildings, mechanics, architecture, among others, use a universal language, that is, a standard chart on the representation of the projected structure. In these sectors, the technical design follows normalizations and technical regulations in all its representation, always with the purpose of being the main link of communication between the design team and implementation team. While the aforementioned authors rigorously apply existing standards and technical regulations established by ABNT, the object of study that is the clothing manufacturer sector of fashion products, in addition to not love this done in the projection of his creations (FIGURE 2), has got no standard or universal 5

Conheça a ABNT. Available in < http://www.abnt.org.br/abnt/conheca-a-abnt>, searched in 30th November 2016.

6

Recomendações e dicas da ABNT. Available in , searched in 30th November 2016. 7

A história da ABNT em detalhes. Available in < http://www.abnt.org.br/abnt/conheca-a-abnt>, searched in 30th November 2016.

language that gives satisfactory subsidies to professionals immersed in the execution of the item, meaning, rules and regulations that are proposed by a competent body.

Figure 2: A dress technical design 8 Therefore, it is stated with conviction the lack of parameters and foundation in technical standards and regulations, which inform the production team properly and aim mainly to the quality in the process, product and service. Facing the need of sharing information and meanings of what is fashion technical drawing, established by the following authors: Treptow (2003, p.148) defines it as: "[...] known as planned design or specification of design." Morris (2007, p.76) states that: "Several terms are used to describe the drawings that specify the details of a garment [...]". Leite and Velloso (2004, p.8) certify that: "[...] an object rests on the volume of the body, following its forms [...] the design needs to play the body recesses." Based on studies on fashion technical drawing consolidated before the affirmative imposed onLeite and Velloso, Treptow and Moris, it is worth noting the lack of standardization, technical regulation and a universal language; because, for example, the clothing manufacturer sector, the technical design is usually the technical file component and complemented by other prominent information.

3 DATA SHEET AND TECHNICAL DRAWING The technical drawing is in most cases the basic information sheet, which as stated by Treptow (2003, p.165) this document is the description of a piece of collection. "The data sheet document is descriptive of a piece of collection. With it, the costs of industry and commercial department shall provide the sales price. The planning sector and production control calculate the inputs needed to manufacture as ordered, and the purchasing department will effect on the acquisition of raw materials (fabrics and haberdashery) (TREPTOW, 2003, p. 165). " On Treptow analysis (2003), it appears that in addition to supporting the process of realization of an item, the sheet has the additional function: to generate the cost of manufacture and sale of the item, 8

Figure source 2: http://www.observasc.net.br/moda/index.php/producao/modelagem/1459-2014-10-01-13-31-32, searched in 30th November 2016.

calculate the amount of inputs and acquire correct amount of raw material in order not to generate inventory and does not lead to missing and input during the production process. However, in practice each company adopts or create a sheet model, some with more information and a few other specifics about the design of the product. (FIGURE 3 and 4)

Figure 3: Sheet of fashion designer RenataPerito9

Figure 4: Sheet of the fashion designer CintiaYumi Nakagawa10 9

Figure Source 3: http://www.renataperito.com/?p=2078, acesso em 16 de outubro de 2015.

10

Figure Source 4: https://francysrodrigues.wordpress.com/category/curso-de-moda/ , searched in 30th November 2016.

To aim for overall success in the use of technical specifications in a production environment, it is necessary that the key artifact of communication of this document, the technical design, has concise language and convey clearly and accurately model information without minimizing the importance of other topics. All overriding information for the production of the item must be present in the data sheet clearly that precludes any doubt as to the model and design, so says Morris (2007, p.76): "The traces of a technical design should be clear, clean and accurate. " input information, decorative elements and operational sequence are also important, and will help in the process of implementation, according to Treptow (2003, p.167). It is noteworthy the relevance of a fact sheet with consistent preparation and fair to the company's production methodology and its employees, as each company develops the plug with their interests. "The criteria are set according to the type of product and organization of production, and the fashion designer designs the drawing based on their training, that is, clothing is illustrated in two dimensions (front and back). The formatting of a sheet is flexible, there is no [...] rule "says Leite and Velloso (2004, p. 147), and also point out that this document is intended to inform all relevant product issues through technical drawing. Leite and Velloso (2004, p. 147) point out that this document is intended to design all relevant item data, such as inputs, benefits, cost of labor and production, among others. "The statement should contain a descriptive memory of the product", they add. Having said that, the technical data sheet has the function of establishing production methodology in an organized and systematic manner. So it is important that the fashion designer knows how to prepare and fill the instrument with extreme detail, as it should be considered that many professionals will have benefitswith the information and the drawing representation of the process to perform their tasks only with this document. Any mistake can cause a lot of damage and setbacks. According to Treptow (2003, p 165.): "Errors or lack of precision in the fulfillment of the technical file data can cause numerous problems such as incorrect purchase of inputs (changed reference, excess or insufficient quantity) and failures in determining cost of product. " A according ascertained from the publications of Leite and Velloso, Treptow and Morris, is that: the technical drawing is the information with the highest level of importance of a technical data sheet. According to this agreement between the authors, technical design must provide accurate information and avoid communication distortions to reach its purpose. An accurate instrument to achieve this purpose is that the design has universal language, based on standards and technical regulations to avoid ambiguities in the interpretation. It alsorises up the possibilities of consistency between what is targeted by the design team and executed by the production team.

FINAL NOTES The drawing in the history of society as transmission tool, in the early days of human history and in contemporary times, always had an important role in the media. The technical design that emerged parallel to a large industrial development, aimed to benefit the realization of articles designed from its methodology. With the expansion and dissemination of their use, common procedures were assigned and adapted through normalization and technical regulations to allow that the language could be executed, read and interpreted without consent dualities or mistakes. In Brazil, the norms and technical regulations established by ABNT established communication languages and are extraordinary benefits that should not be overlooked or minimized in the projection of

building work, mechanics and architecture. These communication agreements establish that producing quality and consumer satisfaction as a key condition. On the study of standards and technical regulations, it is found that the purpose of these agreements is exclusively for the benefit of all processes which the product passes to the execution procedure. The speed of the clothing manufacturer industry requires that products are created, designed, accomplished, marketed and promptly replaced in weeks. The common cycle of the items in this sector does not have the same projection time available as a mechanical diagram, electronic, or even a building.However, this does not justify the lack of a universal language of technical drawing in the data sheet. A possibility that favors the fashion industry is exposure studies and reminiscent methodologies to trace the technical design of fashion, and subsequently submitting certain agreements to standards bodies and technical regulations and their approval committee.In this manner, the procedures make the language of the technical drawing as a unified fashion according decreasing or even all extinguishing misconception of the language. For the professionals involved in the execution, they would be greatly favored with this "standardization" of the design, as all properly trained would present easy ability to design, interpret and carry an item from a standard fashion technical drawing.

REFERENCES ABNT, available in < http://www.abnt.org.br/>, searched in 30th November 2016. HOPKINS, John. Desenho de Moda. Porto Alegre: Bookman, 2011. LEITE, Adriana Sampaio; VELLOSO, Marta Delgado. Desenho técnico de roupa feminina. 1 ed. Rio de Janeiro: Senac Nacional, 2004. LUPTON, Ellen; PHILLIPS, COLE. Novos Fundamentos no Design.1° Ed. Cosac Naify, SP, 2004 MORRIS, Bethan. Fashion illustrator: Manual do ilustrador de moda. 1 ed. São Paulo: Cosacnaify, 2007 TREPTOW, Doris. Inventando moda: Planejamento de coleção. 3 ed. Brusque: do autor, 2005. TRINDADE, Bernardete. Ambiente híbrido para a aprendizagem dos fundamentos de desenho técnico para as engenharias. Florianópolis, 2002. 118f. Tese de doutoramento em Engenharia de produção – Programa de Pós-graduação em Engenharia de Produção, UFSC, 2002. Available in < https://repositorio.ufsc.br/handle/123456789/83731>, searched in 30th November 2016.