Wavelength Kayaking Magazine: Summer 2009

WaveLength Your complete kayaking and coastal exploration resource

Volume 19, Issue 3

SSummer ummer 2009 FREE at select outlets or by subscription

The tao of kayaking

MAGAZINE

Discover BC

A look at BCC destinations off the beaten track

PM 41687515

Become one with the paddle: centered, balanced, aware

Plus: • Current Designs Infinity review • Stern rudder stroke • Kayak fishing

WL_SU09_master.indd 1

East Creek

Requiem for one of Vancouver Island's last pristine valleys

5/27/2009 11:35:41 AM

2

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 2

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:35:53 AM

Contents

This month's features:

Regular columns:

10

4

Editorial

6

Letters

8

News

24

Paddle Meals

Requiem for East Creek Conservation by John Kimantas

14

10

New Vistas Discover BC Various contributors

20

by Hilary Masson

Wind and Wonder Haida Gwaii

26

14

by Sheila Porteous

28

32

Into Infinity

New Gear Skillset by Alex Matthews

Review: Current Designs Infinity

38

by John Kimantas

Planning & Safety by Michael Pardy

30

The Tao of Sea Kayaking Health and Fitness

34

40

by Dan Armitage

by Eric Soares

34

Fishing Angles

42

Pelican Primer

Reflections by Terry Johnson

Wildlife by James Michael Dorsey

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 3

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

3

5/27/2009 11:35:57 AM

The First Word

by John Kimantas

WaveLength Rediscovering old ground MAGAZINE

Summer 2009

Volume 19, Number 3 PM No. 41687515

Editor John Kimantas [email protected] Copy Editing Darrell Bellaart

Writing not otherwise credited is by WL staff. Cover Photo:

Tao at sunset, near Mendocino, CA Michael Powers

SAFE PADDLING is an individual responsibility. We recommend that inexperienced paddlers seek expert instruction and advice about local conditions, have all the required gear and know how to use it. The publishers of this magazine and its contributors are not responsible for how the information in these pages is used by others. WAVELENGTH is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops, outdoor stores, fitness clubs, marinas, events, etc.), and globally on the web. Also available by subscription. Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome. Download back issues and articles online at www.wavelengthmagazine.com

SUBSCRIBE $20 FOR 1 YEAR – 4 ISSUES $35 FOR 2 YEARS – 8 ISSUES US$ FOR USA

/ CDN$ FOR CANADA

TO SUBSCRIBE: SEE PAGE 36

ADVERTISING RATES AND SUBMISSION GUIDELINES AVAILABLE AT WWW.WAVELENGTHMAGAZINE.COM ISSUE Fall 2009 Winter 2009 Spring 2010 Summer 2010

AD DEADLINE July 1 Oct. 1 Feb. 1 May 1

DISTRIBUTION Aug. 1 Nov. 1 March 1 June 1

A product of:

Wild Coast Publishing #6 10 Commercial St. Nanaimo, B.C., Canada, V9R 5G2 Ph: 1-866-984-6437 • Fax: 1-866-654-1937 Email: [email protected] Website: www.wavelengthmagazine.com © 2009. Copyright is retained on all material (text, photos and graphics) in this magazine. No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form, print or electronic, for any purpose, except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing. Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2008, courtesy of the Atlas of Canada. Also, our thanks to Geobase for some elements that may appear on Wavelength maps.

Regular readers of this column will likely see a common theme emerging: how thankful I am to live where I do (Nanaimo, Vancouver Island, BC, for the record). I'll have to add to that I am additionally thankful for the incredible experiences I've been able to enjoy here on the BC coast. Foremost among those was the three summers I spent living by and large out of a kayak. The result was the unusual credential of having kayaked almost all the BC coast. That isn't to say I know all of it. But I can tell you, I am intimately familiar with the coast through memories that tend not to fade with time (unlike days spent in the office, for instance, for anyone wondering if such trips are worthwhile). I can remember just about every nook and cranny campsite I had to tame, every encounter with a whale, every rocky precipice I had to paddle past. I remember the storms and the cold, plus the wet and the discomfort, but I have to be honest – even those have a fond familiarity that beckons me back, to that world ffree ffrom economic and international strife to a time when the only concerns were what lay within the next horizon and the shape of the clouds beyond. This edition, with a focus on BC destinations, has brought a lot back for me. Particularly poignant was a CD sent from friend Michael Luce showing photos from his latest trip to Fiordlands – a destination I fell in love with as soon as I turned the corner off Mathieson Channel and began paddling into Kynoch Inlet. I often find myself planning trips by setting my mind back a few years and thinking about which areas I would like to have lingered longer. The list is a long one. There are pockets of paradise everywhere. For the past few years I have given a slideshow and talk on my pick for the top 10 kayaking destinations in BC, which is a bit foolish in a way as there is no possible way to rank areas. It's all so subjective. Wind, rain, loud partiers at the last campsite or a pod of killer whales surfacing within paddle-length will all shape your own impression of a trip and by extension the area. But that's a bonus. You cannot predict your own experience, and what you encounter will never be duplicated, by you (sadly sometimes) or anyone else. So having promoted a "Top Ten" approach to kayaking in BC I'd also like to banish the concept. After all, it's not the destination that makes a trip. It's the journey. That thought is one of the reasons I think Eric Soares' introduction to "little tao" is entirely apt, more so in a magazine advocating destinations. It goes with my philosophy for life: The longer and more difficult the journey, the better the rewards you’ll find along the way. (You'll hear that from me a lot, no doubt.) After reading over Eric's tao article, I'm happy to see my approach to being on the water has been very tao-like without even knowing it. But then I always felt a Zen-like connection between myself, my kayak, my paddle and the water. I remember one trip trying to introduce someone to kayaking, and getting the comment mid-trip, "If we had a motor on these things we'd be there already." I think that entirely sums up the concept of missing the point. Maybe that's because we're so busy trying to get somewhere these days we're missing out on the journey. But when you think about it, the journey is all there really is. - John Kimantas

Nuchatlitz, Nootka Sound (Vancouver Island)

Cert no. SW-COC-002226

4

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 4

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:36:00 AM

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 5

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

5

5/27/2009 11:36:03 AM

Letters

Meet the real last fiord The article in your Spring 2009 Wavelength magazine (The Last Fiord) states that the fiord just outside Vancouver, Indian Arm, is the southernmost fiord in North America. I do not think so. The Hood Canal in Washington State is the southernmost as it is a fiord and not a canal. It was misnamed by cartographers many years ago when they named it for Capt. Hood. They put CA. Hood, and the people that make the maps thought they meant Hood Canal, not Captain Hood. It is in fact a fiord. Rick Chaffee

6

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 6

The inside view We live on Wickaninnish Island off Tofino (it harbors Tofino from the open ocean) and have lived here for over 40 years. As you have probably experienced if you come to Clayoquot very often, the beaches are increasingly covered with fish farm plastic and waste, the inlets have underwater lights on all night and some have above water spotlights. If a person is camping, you wake up in the night thinking it might be the full moon but it is fish farm operations, and in the morning, booming rock music from the many speakers broadcasting on the farms carries over the water, along with the 24/7 generators that feed all this and then the automatic feeders that tumble feed pellets continuously into the pens. It doesn't make for a very natural experience. Here in Clayoquot there are over 24 fish farm licences. I believe about 20 are in operation holding between 10 to 14 or more pens at each site. Each net pen holds from 20,000 to 50,000 salmon. In the Mainstream operations they are all Atlantic salmon, voracious feeders that prey on small fish attracted to the pens and lights. They create a proliferation of sea lice that jump on these herring, salmonids, cod and other young fish trying to survive in the inlets. It is strange that people feel that if the salmon river is protected and the inlets aren't, that is adequate for the wild salmon. It's easy to forget how vitally important the rearing grounds of the inlets are for wild fish survival. We have approximately 5 million salmon being raised for private profit, most of it going to Norway, while

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:36:05 AM

Letters

on Clayoquot Sound local people aren't even getting food fish anymore, and it is unlikely anyone will eat a farmed fish. We wouldn't. Would rather be vegetarian. The pollution of the blood water (the brine solution and CO2 plus other things these fish farm companies use to kill the fish slowly) – that is, the sludge the fish are killed in on the bottom of the barges en route to the processing plant to make them "bleed out" so they are easier to process – is so dangerous that it is prohibited to be dumped near the farms. But it does end up in Tofino's sewer system where it is mixed with raw sewage to be pumped out into the ocean. This plus the sewage from the farms themselves, which is equivalent to villages of up to 5,000 people, is destroying the marine life in the area. It is known that many seals, killer whales, eagles and bears are starving with no fat on them any more. While Norway profits, we are losing. Norway also owns the pulp mill in Port Alberni (Catalyst). What the logging did to the wild salmon stocks, fish farms are

finishing off. It is a challenge for people to speak out as the many kayaking companies don't want to discourage people from enjoying the coast. But after a trip to Cape Cook two years ago, and after living on the coast for almost 45 years, having seen it in its incredible beauty and purity, to experience it now it is becoming a nightmare. There are still places to "get away from it all" but these are becoming a rarity. Rather, we need to turn this around and stop it. All the efforts in Clayoquot have been thrown back in people's faces and it keeps eroding until there will be nothing left. Our children and grandchildren will be dumbed down as they will not know what to compare the present to. Likely they will find their own oases and satisfaction, but hopefully it won't have to be in entertainment systems or human games rather than knowing the awe and beauty of the natural world. Steve Lawson Clayoquot Sound

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 7

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

7

5/27/2009 11:36:08 AM

News

Wavelength funds North Coast Trail

8

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 8

IPP targets Kaikash Creek Syntex Energy Resources Ltd. has put forward an application for an independent power generation project (IPP) at Kaikash Creek. It includes the Crown foreshore and Crown land in the vicinity of Kaikash Creek for a run-of-river power generation facility. The area has been a forest recreation campsite and one of the key marinebased campgrounds for whale watching, particularly for kayakers, in Johnstone Strait. The project involves the construction of a power house proposed near the ocean on the east side of the creek, an access road along the penstock/river run plus power lines along the shoreline to connect with the existing grid at Beaver Creek. The BC government's push for IPPs has created a gold-rush-like rash of proposals to generate power on most BC rivers. While being billed as green (renewable) energy, the concept has come under fi re for its environmental, visual and recreational impact. Significant is that many of these waters are fish-bearing and host to a variety of users, in many cases including prime grizzly habitat (such as the head of Bute Inlet).

Environmental standards may be relaxed to accommodate these projects. Leaked documents obtained by the Wilderness Committee cite removal of the ability of Ministry of Environment officials to say no to a project. See www.wildernesscommittee.org

Sea otter hunt planned The Nuu-chah-nulth Tribal Council of Vancouver Island and Canadian federal Fisheries Department are negotiating a sea otter hunt tentatively set at one per cent of the population. The sea otters re-established themselves off the Vancouver Island after being reintroduced in the 1970s. They were extirpated – hunted locally to extinction – in the 1700s, then relocated from Alaska to Checkleset Bay. The original colony has now spread along much of the Vancouver Island coast. The Nuu-chah-nulth are planning the hunt for ceremonial purposes. Follow discussions and links on these topics plus others on Wavelength's Forum at www.wavelengthmagazine.com/forum

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:36:11 AM

News

Island record bid to aid GSA Nick Castro will have his mind focussed on 17 days, 4 hours and 49 minutes this month. Less time than that is what it will take to unseat the record set by Sean Morley in circumnavigating Vancouver Island by kayak. Morley set the record in October 2008, and Castro will be looking to supersede it when he sets out from Port Hardy in June and rounds the island anti-clockwise – the same route used by Morley. A resident of Victoria, BC, Castro wants to keep the record held locally. Earlier in 2008 the solo speed record was set by Joe O'Blenis at 23 days. Beset with poor conditions and even lost hatch covers, O'Blenis plans to regain his speed record with an attempt in September. To break Morley's record, the paddlers will have to average more than 80 kilometers a day (more than 50 miles). Besides attempting to break the record, Castro is using his trip to raise awareness about ocean kayaking as a healthy and environmentally sustainable activity. He is also using it to raise money for the Georgia Strait Alliance, a group working to preserve

and manage use of one of the most congested, industrialized and environmentally challenged waterways on the BC coast. Meanwhile, the GSA has another backer: the Bullitt Foundation, which is offering a $10,000 donation if the GSA can raise a matching amount. To qualify for a matching contribution, new members can sign up with a one-time donation of at least $250, or a monthly donation of $21; existing members can make a donation of at least $250 more than the amount they gave in 2008; or existing monthly donors can increase their monthly gift by $21. The GSA must raise the fi rst half ($5,000) by Sept. 15. For more information: • Follow Castro's journey, including SPOT map progress, at www.activeseakayaking.ca. • Learn about the Georgia Strait Alliance or join/donate at www.georgiastrait.org. • Join news updates and an often lively discussion on circumnavigating Vancouver Island on the Wavelength Forum at www.wavelengthmagazine.com/forum

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 9

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

9

5/27/2009 11:36:24 AM

Conservation

by John Kimantas

East Creek Requiem for

How one of Vancouver Island's last pristine watersheds was allowed to quietly slip away

I

FOUND MYSELF standing awkwardly in knee-deep water off the beach, hand outheld like some odd parody of the Statue of Liberty. This offered the best reception I could find for the marine weather forecast, which was still fading in and out in a rhythm oddly akin to the nearby waves. Blame the campsite deep in Klaskish Inlet, one I picked for the location directly across from the East Creek estuary. Poor radio reception was an unexpected side-effect of my location within a clustering of adjacent mountains. Weather forecasts are a lifeline along this part of northwest Vancouver Island. The next leg of my journey after exploring East Creek was around Brooks Peninsula, the legendary barrier of mountains known for its storms and wind. I was in no hurry to cross it, content to take as long as possible for a weather window, but the typically cryptic Environment Canada weather forecasts had been even more cryptic than usual these past few days, ending with the ominous warning of a coming storm but no details of when. With arm outheld I was finally able to piece the latest forecast together: winds calm tomorrow morning, rising to 10-20 knots in the afternoon, with an approaching southerly storm front expected to hit the next day. It wasn’t a perfect weather window, but one I was going to have to

10

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 10

take. Mornings of calm winds are a rare enough forecast for anywhere on thee BC coast in the summer. At Brooks you take such breaks and run with them. The plan didn’t take long to formulate: a 4 a.m. launch to beat the afternoon winds likely off the most exposed area at Cape Cook. This would get me ideally to a beach campsite on the south end of Brooks Peninsula in the early afternoon, where I could set up to prepare for the onslaught. My rushed departure meant one unfortunate change of plans. I’d lose a day meant to explore East Creek. When I paddled away the next morning East Creek's estuary. in the pre-dawn black, it was my last visit to this area for many years to come. The logging was protested protested, but the result That was 2003, when a glimmer of hope was hardly a victory for environmentalists. remained for the East Creek estuary. At The Sierra Club led the rally with a Save the time it was one of the last remaining East Creek campaign. After a short flurry unprotected, pristine watersheds on of activity in 2003, interest died. Internet Vancouver Island, a status soon to be lost. updates end virtually that year. The Save LeMare Lake Logging of Port McNeill East Creek website is now gone. Interest was granted approval from the province evaporated and East Creek was forgotten for 480 hectares (1,200 acres) of logging. as a cause. By building a road they also made it easier For Save East Creek campaign organizer for Weyerhaeuser, then-owners of adjacent Jill Thompson, it was a bitter outcome. She logging rights, to push through and log says the value of the creek was never in X farther into the valley. SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:36:26 AM

East Creek

Rainforest at Klaskish Inlet.

Few places on Vancouver Island can match the formidable presence of Brooks Peninsula. Its snow-capped peaks can be seen in the distance to the right. This photo is taken from Side Bay. The peak to the left is Red Stripe Mountain, a previously logged area. The gap beyond Red Stripe is Klaskino Inlet, another possible point of entry via logging road or a good anchorage for the hardy boaters who pass this stretch of coast. The mouth of Klaskish Inlet, this day's destination, is in the distance between the last headland and the snow-capped peaks.

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 11

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

11

5/27/2009 11:36:31 AM

Conservation

Kayaking East Creek.

12

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 12

question – in fact, Thompson says even the government recognized the values of both East Creek and Klaskish River, known for its salmon, elk, wolf and marbled murrelet. But somehow these areas were left outside the borders of Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park when it was created in 1995. “Nasparti, Power, Battle, East and Klaskish were like a bite taken out of an otherwise continuous protected area, and they had excellent fish and wildlife values and recreation, for those hardy enough to get there, but MoF (Ministry of Forests) didn’t think there were enough of you to be worth it,” Thompson says. The Save East Creek campaign ran into barriers as formidable as the environment. Too remote for an active base and with no nearby home community, there was no way to anchor a protest. And financial backers were equally elusive. “Big funders thought of it as a lost battle, and had moved their money to the more promising Great Bear Rainforest. We connected with some members of the Quatsino First Nation and learned a bit about their history there, but they were similarly overstretched with other demands on their attention and resources,” Thompson says. “In the end, I think we (Sierra Club and the Ministry of Environment) got a few reserves for marbled murrelet established, but it was massively disappointing. By that time, the BC Government had gutted a bunch of the previous conservation tools, and the MoE had no bargaining power whatsoever – basically they got what the companies agreed they could have.” A haven for kayakers exploring north Brooks Peninsula and Side Bay, as well as a few adventurous boaters, the headwaters at Klaskino Inlet captured the attention of BC activist Ingmar Lee. His plan was a reconnaissance of the forests of East Creek and the ancient Klaskish village of Tsowanachs at the mouth of Klaskino. With the blessing of the Quatsino First Nation he searched for culturally modified trees – evidence of the traditional use by First Nations

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:36:38 AM

East Creek possibly long ago. “By counting the rings in the calluses that grow across the barkstrip, or planksplit wounds, we can get an idea of when people last lived in these forests and how far and wide they traveled through them. So little is known about this village, and there is a lot to learn from the amazing story that is written in these CMTs,” Lee says. An unexpected find was what appeared to be an ancient trail near the East Creek estuary. “I’m certain that it’s a human made path because it runs so directly along the easiest route over the lie of the land. The trail has been well maintained by animal traffic judging by the purple piles and all the tracks, since the last human passage, perhaps 200 years ago,” Lee says. It appears to have once connected East Creek to Tsowanachs, with culturally modified trees liberally dotting the trail’s length. The pair measured one ancient red cedar at a 14-foot diameter, making it the eighth largest cedar on the planet. A hollow, burned-out center large enough for 10

people provided shelter for Lee during a blasting storm. While surrounded by such history, evidence of more modern use is never far away. “Dreadfully, at times we can hear snippets of the rumble and roar of big logging on its way here at the moment,” Lee wrote during his stay. A trip to Brooks Peninsula is never easy; getting there involves long miles on land well past the end of the asphalt then more travel on water. You can approach from the south via Fair Harbour in Kyuquot Sound or from the north via convoluted logging

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 13

roads that lead to either Side Bay or Klaskino Inlet. Five years after my first visit I finally found the time to return, and entered via Side Bay. Snow almost barred our entry as we crossed the pass from Port Alice. A few days earlier and the route wouldn’t have yet been plowed for the spring. We launched with the thermometer barely above the freezing mark – the price to pay for an early April visit. But we gained the advantage of the unusual sight of snow on the Brooks Peninsula peaks. Thankfully after a portage up the shallows at the mouth of East Creek (we didn’t time our arrival well for the necessary high tide), we found the lower valley largely undisturbed. East Creek can be paddled for about a mile, offering a rare look into the interior of Brooks Peninsula – so long as you don’t look up to the valley-top logging. For Thompson, it’s a bitter contrast. “It deserves better,” she says.

Brooks Peninsula in April.



Visit Lee's website at ingmarlee.com and his film on East Creek at cathedralgrove.eu

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

13

5/27/2009 11:36:41 AM

Discover BC

New Vistas Wavelength looks at some of BC's least visited but most enticing kayak destinations, starting with little-known Fiordlands

If only people turned right at Klemtu when heading up British Columbia's Inside Passage. But they don't. The pleasure boats cru cruising this route to Alaska invariably continue north through Princess Royal Passage. Those who do tur turn right, and head up Mathieson Channel, will soon find themselves in the exceptional Fiordlands Co Conservancy – an area well worth a few days for boaters and kayakers alike. Every year Washington Sta State-based brothers Michael and James (Jamz) Luce explore a new remote region of the BC coast, or red rediscover an old one. This past year they explored the Fiordland region for 10 days with friends Mike an and Elaine McRory. Th The Fiordlands Conservancy protects Kynoch and Mussel Inlets, two glacially created fiords ch characterized by sheer granite cliffs dropping more than a kilometer at points into the ocean. It's not a pla place to visit lightly. Accessible areas suitable for camping are few and far between, while some of those, suc such as the estuaries, are prime grizzly habitat. Watch also for strong diurnal winds. 14

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 14

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:36:42 AM

Fiordland

Lessum Creek.

Elaine McRory photo

Fiordland is rich in waterfalls, such as the one at Lessum Creek near the entrance of Kynoch Inlet, as well as McAlpin and Lisette Falls in Mussel Inlet. The latter earned its name from Capt. George Vancouver's ill-fated trip in 1793 when paralytic shellfish poisoning claimed the life of shipmate John Carter. Nearby Carter Bay commemorates the 24-yearold seaman. The scene below shows typical conditions for the region – cliffs, water and fog.

Morning fog near Mathieson Point, Pooley Island James 'Jamz' Luce photo

If you go: The only community in this region is Klemtu. BC Ferries (www.bcferries.com) stops here, making it an ideal launch point. The Kitasoo First Nation also offers rentals, accommodation and cultural tours, including a cabin in Kynoch Inlet. Visit www.klemtutourism.com. For park info, visit www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks.

West Kynoch Inlet.

Michael Luce photo

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 15

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

15

5/27/2009 11:36:48 AM

Discover BC

There's a new way to enjoy north Vancouver Island. And it's beyond belief.

Beyond paddles Fo years most of Vancouver Island's north coast was off limits to just about all but the most hardy For pa paddlers. After all, the closest community is Port Hardy, and from there you must cross windy Goletas Ch Channel, potentially dangerous Tatnall Reefs then the reef-infested and potentially rough waters tow towards Cape Sutil, the northernmost point on Vancouver Island. On Once you arrive you'll find something you probably didn't expect: miles of sand beaches comparable to tropical destinations, and most often with no other soul in sight. In idyllic paddling conditions it is pa paradise. For this reason it has grown as one of BC's most desirable veteran kayaking destinations. Th The fan base can widen now the North Coast Trail is complete. The land trail opened in May 2008, and offers the chance for foot access to many previous inaccessible portions of the Vancouver Island coast. Bu But don't for a moment think the area will lose its charm now foot traffic is possible. The trail is remote an and in parts extremely difficult. Expect it to be among the more elite hikes, comparable to the more fam famous West Coast Trail but without many trail improvements. What you will find is 58 kilometers of h walking, lk sometimes easy b beach sometimes grinding headland scaling and one lengthy meandering stretch of mostly boardwalk across boggy overland near Shushartie Bay. Either way, by paddle or by foot, it is an experience not to be missed. 16

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 16

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:36:52 AM

North Coast Trail

Leanne Chetcuti tackles a tough portion of trail, aided by ropes placed at the most difficult stretches of the North Coast Trail – which are many.

Photos by John Kimantas

If you go: The North Coast Trail is a continuation of the established Cape Scott Trail. From Nissen Bight it continues 43 km along the top of Vancouver Island to Shushartie Bay, where a water taxi is needed to return to Port Hardy. A shuttle service to the trailhead at San Josef is available; see northernvancouverislandtrailssociety.com for details. Wavelength Magazine's parent company, Wild Coast Publishing, has produced a map detailing the trail. Visit www.wavelengthmagazine.com. See www.wildcoastmagazine.com North Coast Trail pages for detailed trail information.

Imagine the West Coast Trail 20 years ago before today's many bridges and ladders were built. The North Coast Trail evokes that earlier era of pristine but rough trail. Kudos to Leanne of Team Wavelength who finished the NCT just days after the opening last May, making her the first female on record to complete the hike. The overall inaugural hike is chronicled at www.wildcoastmagazine.com

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 17

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

17

5/27/2009 11:36:57 AM

Discover BC

A worthwhile Mission

Photo by Fran Solar

Just off Kyuquot Sound on Vancouver Island is a magical little cluster of islands called the Mission Group. It may well be the perfect kayaking destination, with sandy beaches, sea arches, a rich native history plus a sense of wildness magnified by the proximity to the wild and mythical Brooks Peninsula. Prime sea otter viewing.

photos courtesy Dave Pinel, West Coast Expeditions. See www.westcoastexpeditions.com

If you go: You can launch from Fair Harbour in Kyuquot Sound or at Artlish River. A water taxi from Fair Harbour is the easy way to the archipelago, as is the MV Uchuck from Gold River. Accommodation is available at Sea Otter Lodge (see the ad page 43) while West Coast Expeditions hosts tours from a base camp on Spring Island in the Mission Group (see the ad page 46). Air Nootka provides the region's plane service. 18

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 18

SUMMER UMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:37:00 AM

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 19

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

19

5/27/2009 11:37:06 AM

&

Discover BC

by Sheila Porteous

Wonder Wind Rennell Sound. Buck Tombolo.

Exploration of Queen Charlotte Islands is at first intimidating, then enchanting – once the wind calms down

T

South end of Gillan Tombolo. 20

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 20

HE WINDS were blasting over the diminutive island at fifty-plus knots. The tents looked like soggy clumps of paper huddled in the grass; and me, I was standing with my head cocked to one side, with raindrops pelting my face, w wondering what I was doing here. After spending the first two w nnights of the trip on the aptly named Refuge Island holed up in a rustic cabin, the thought of kayaking down the West Coast of Graham Island seemed barely plausible. G The plan to spend two weeks here was conjured up by a wellttraveled group of Vancouver Island paddlers. I had been sucked in bby the romantic notion of unspoiled shorelines, endless beaches aand the adventure of a lifetime. (I never stopped to consider w why this ‘spectacular destination’ was still relatively untouched.) G Graham is the largest of the Queen Charlotte Islands, or Haida G Gwaii in the more traditional name. Being unfamiliar with rainy eexpeditions that lasted longer than one week, I was truly beginning tto panic. I wanted to go home. Fortunately, I was too ashamed ((and afraid) to turn my kayak around, head back to Old Masset aand beg the wise village elders to take care of me for a few weeks while my friends continued on. w On the tail end of the storm we set out to tackle Virago Sound, ssoon to be the most challenging kayaking I had ever done. With tthe current and swell opposing, the seas were a confusing mix of waves. As I floundered across feeling like a kernel of corn in a w

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:37:07 AM

Haida Gwaii hot pot, all I can remember is chanting “paddle, paddle, brace! Paddle, paddle, brace!” The drunken fishermen that were rushing toward their luxury lodges in their 14-foot runabouts yelled over the wind that we were “crazzzy.” That didn’t help. And the trip had just begun. But eventually the weather did break and the spectacular sights began to emerge. I never understood that a rainforest is really a temperate jungle until I paddled and camped along the shores of Graham. Wandering through the forests I realized that I could dig down with my bare hands for several feet and still not reach hard-packed soil. The vegetation was so abundant that I couldn’t take a single step without crushing a living organism, and I always felt like I was walking on the clouds. The dampness of Haida Gwaii permeated my clothing, my shoes and my heart, yet I never felt cold; quite the opposite. I was left feeling warm, nourished and somehow revived. The more time I spent the more content I became. The bountiful plant kingdom was matched by the abundance of ocean creatures. Almost every day the majestic humpbacks kept us company throughout our long and sometimes lonely journey. Each night we hiked a bluff to look toward the next day’s destination, and gazed upon distant whales that were setting out toward the horizon. The eagles and ravens clung to the mountainous shores like bees to a hive, crying to each other with their haunting prose. Incidentally, it wasn’t all smooth sailing in the animal world. Black bears posed no trouble. Instead I was beset by the intertidal life. Setting up a tent meant clearing pristine moon snail and top shells off the beach, plus I almost flipped my kayak more than once staring at the myriad of colored urchins just under the waves. I must mention that my paddling partners were some of the most exciting wildlife on the trip. An eclectic mix of X

Kelp blown up by the windstorm litters the beach at Refuge Island.

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 21

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

21

5/27/2009 11:37:13 AM

Discover BC

Pillar Rock dwarfs a kayaker.

unique individuals individuals, they are imbued with a profusion of wilderness survival skills. From repairing a flat tire using driftwood for a jack, to building ovens big enough to bake goodies to feed the whole group, to packing enough construction tools to make a handyman proud, they could do it all. Thanks to a cooking competition that began with the first collective meal, my diet and waist-line both expanded more than one could imagine while traveling in the middle of nowhere. One of my fondest memories was gazing at the peaks of the snow-capped Queen Charlotte Mountains while noticing that the stern paddler in our team's canoe was sitting back, sipping hot tea and appreciating the sights while his wife propelled them along. As the trip neared its end I was able to finally appreciate how the Haida people had developed their culture over some 10,000 years along these remote and hostile shores. The fantastic remains of the Haida settlements are scattered throughout the

intervals. (Surviving islands at regular intervals villages have protectors called watchmen who may grant permission to respectfully explore the remaining village sites. Dustin Edgars took us on our own personal tour of Kiutsa, the largest original native settlement in the area.) Throughout our travels we appreciated the wise territorial choices of the preceding native people. We often camped on ancient Haida territories where the beaches were protected from the incoming Pacific swells, where the headlands sheltered us from the winds and provided lookouts to scope out the next day’s paddle. Material sources were infinite. Our own diets were supplemented with the same abundant seafood the Haida would have consumed. Even with all the hardships of the trip we were well protected and nourished by the very lands that I had feared just a few weeks before. Kayaking around Graham Island I experienced much more than the rugged

Photo by Joanne Nicolson

coastline, crashing surf and unpredictable winds that the West Coast of the Queen Charlottes is infamous for; I was stimulated by a landscape that hums with the perpetual spirit of life. I was honoured to experience the underlying rhythm of this stunning archipelago. Although I have been home for many months, my dreams are still filled with vivid yet indescribable sensations from

Rocky outcrop near blowhole, Naikoon Provincial Park. 22

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 22

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:37:17 AM

Haida Gwaii

The author paddling in Skidegate Inlet.

these intriguing islands. The mountains and surrounding seas resonate with an unseen energy that left me looking for something that I will never be able to see or touch, but I may spend the rest of my days searching for. The essence of Haida Gwaii, or “the Land of the People,” has penetrated my soul and I ache to return to this desperately beautiful haven to search for the ancient

spirits, and myself, once more.  Sheila Porteous is a certified kayak guide with the SKGABC and Level 1 sea kayak instructor with Paddle Canada. She hopes to use the skills and knowledge she has gained so far to encourage people to break through their barriers and join the paddling community. [email protected]



SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 23

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

23

5/27/2009 11:37:19 AM

Paddle Meals

by Hilary Masson

Outer Island Oyster A

T THE SOUTHERN END of Gabriola Island, where the tidal rapids from False Narrows and Gabriola Pass meet, is a paddling paradise which contains a rich diversity of sea life. Growing up here instilled local seafood harvesting as an important aspect of my life. Whenever I kayak, be it in Baja or in BC, fishing and shellfish harvesting is often a focal point for my kayak expeditions. The meals shared while camping in spectacular locations create memories that last forever, especially if the meal includes fresh seafood which was harvested right at your campsite. While guiding a paddling trip from my Gabriola Island home to the outer more remote Gulf Islands, I served a meal that was an extravaganza of oysters. On the beach where we camped there was a healthy population of oysters and clams. I had previously checked the Department of Fisheries and Oceans website for any PSP (paralytic shellfish poisoning) closures, commonly caused by ‘Red Tide,’ and

Extravaganza

confirmed the area was open to all but butter clams. Contrary to popular belief the summers in the Gulf Islands are mostly open; however, it is very important that you research your paddling destination and determine contamination closure locations and the PSP-outbreak status. It is

also important that you have a valid fishing license and abide by harvesting regulations. I recommend bringing an oyster shucker and adding it to your cutlery in your camp kitchen. Both of these recipes are hard to make without one. Cooking the soup over the fire is great because it’s a one-pot meal, and the oyster appetizer is ideal over the fire too. If you will be cooking over a fire then check for summer fire bans for your paddling destination. Respect the fire bans. If you can’t have a fire, try oysters on the half shell on your barbecue at home, or broiled in the oven.  Hilary Masson is a guide and part owner of Baja Kayak Adventure Tours Ltd. doing business as Silva Bay Kayak Adventures in the summer in BC.

Oyster on the half shell appetizer and Thai seafood soup

24

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 24

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:37:23 AM

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 25

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

25

5/27/2009 11:37:52 AM

New Gear

Go PVC-free: here's why PVC is one type of plastic you don't want in your arsenal of kayaking gear. Dioxins are produced in the production of PVC, and over the lifetime of the product a cocktail of toxic chemicals are released back into the environment. It can't be recycled easily, and if burned or incinerated it releases more dioxins and toxic gases. If landfi lled, it will release additives that can damage groundwater. For good reason more and more manufacturers are advertising PVC-free products. Here are several from the growing selection.

Aquapac

As well as PVC-free, Aquapac adds to the equation that its waterproof belt case is 100% recyclable. For keys, cash, passports and more, the belt case is submersible to 15 feet and comes with a belt or slip it onto your own. Also look for Aquapac's range of lightweight, flexible and durable waterproof camera cases. www.aquapac.net.

Cascade Designs

Th is new super-durable PVC-free map case from the Sealline family of Cascade Designs features a secure roll-down plus hook and loop closure, convenient tie-down tabs, and an adjustable neck strap. Take your pick of small, medium or large. We're happy to report the medium fits the BC Recreation Kayaking and Small Boat Atlas quite nicely. (Phew!) www.cascadedesigns.com

MEC Transparent drybags are always a bonus – no digging around to ferret out something out of sight in the bottom. MEC's new line is made of non-PVC 0.5mm polyurethane fi lm with radiofrequency welded seams. The bottom is 800-denier PU-coated for extra durability. An oval shape helps with packing. But don't fully submerge – for expensive or vulnerable items, look for hard cases with o-rings or padded waterproof cases. www.mec.ca

26

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 26

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:38:04 AM

New Gear

Cobra If you're like the average North American male who goes giddy over electronics, you'll love the new Cobra MR HH125- 3 Watt Waterproof Handheld VHF. It's one of the smallest, most versatile and most affordable yet, with a backlit LCD display and keypad for low-light conditions and built-in NOAA channels and weather alerts. It runs on recyclable AAA batteries (included), and comes with a DC cigarette lighter charger for recharging on the go. Or replace with five standard AAA batteries, meaning continuous use on long trips where recharging isn't possible. www.cobra.com.

Win a Cobra! NRS And now something for the women, with apologies that it isn't a bit more flashy or glamorous. But any woman who has sat for several hours in wet pants in a kayak will know glamour isn't always a top priority. The NRS Women's Athena Dry Pants are constructed with breathable 70 x 320-denier ripstop HyproTex 2.5 fabric with fully taped seams , latex gaskets at the ankles and 3-mm neoprene band seals at the waist to keep the water out. A handy thigh pocket stores items you need close at hand. www.nrs.com

Platypus Any connoisseur of wine knows the taste changes when exposed to oxygen. If not preserved properly, the lifespan can be measure in hours – not good when you're out kayaking for a week. Enter the PlatyPreserve, which can be used to remove oxygen from the container. The bad news: there goes your excuse for fi nishing the entire bott le in one sitt ing. www.platy.com

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 27

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

27

5/27/2009 11:38:28 AM

Review

by John Kimantas Yellow Point, Vancouver Island

S

OMETIMES it takes an extraordinary event to fully appreciate a kayak. And we got one of those, in spades, during a test of the new Current Designs Infinity. We had been playing it rather safe. When we invited this issue's guest reviewers along for an outing, it was under casual conditions in Nanaimo Harbour. A circumnavigation of Newcastle Island provided an introduction to the sporty boat for members of the BC Marine Trails Network Association, a group working towards establishing a paddle trail from Washington State to Alaska. And so we all gained friendly first impressions of Current Designs’ latest entry into the ever-more-crowded skeg boat category. You might be wondering why another skeg boat if you’re familiar with CD’s legendary Gulfstream, a longtime industry leader among fans of North American-built Brit boats. But the two are quite different. For the Infinity, Current Designs has lengthened the Gulfstream, knocked out some of the rocker, flattened the hull bottom, made the beam narrower (22 inches versus the Gulfstream’s 23.75 inches), and generally made it a highly sporty option. The result, as you might have guessed by the description, is not a beginner’s boat. The Infinity is a specialty boat that will be at home in surf and rapids as much as it is on flat water. As we found out. That’s because our ad hoc Team Wavelength (in this case myself, Leanne Chetcuti and Carey

28

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 28

Into Infinity Lockwood) got a chance to take the Infinity out to Nuchatlitz at the northwest end of Nootka Island. I thought the maelstrom off the reefs that surround Nuchatlitz Provincial Park would provide the rough water test. But the real challenge turned out to be the trip back up Espinosa Inlet. The weather changed from calm to gale force almost instantly, and in minutes we were being propelled by gusting winds above 30 knots. Williwaws (whirlwind squalls) kicked up and we were surfing whitecapped wind waves. In the Infinity it was a surprisingly gentle ride. The basics: The Infinity cockpit is designed for a generally larger paddler. Our test group’s smallest female members were not feeling confident with their fit. Those nearer the 6’0” range of the scale found it fine. Given the narrowness there is some initial twitchiness but the overall stability is good thanks in part to the flat hull design. Tracking with the skeg is a breeze. The Infinity is well-equipped with a day hatch behind the cockpit, an adjustable skeg lever, easily adjusted footrests and rubber

hatch covers that are surprisingly simple to remove and reseal. The rating Touring: The Infinity is billed by CD as a large expedition sea kayak for British boat design aficionados. For those out there not used to Brit boats and skegs, be warned the Infinity's skeg housing divides the stern hatch space (a hazard of any retractable skeg model) which in this case is already split by a day hatch (again, a hazard of the design). Brit boat fans likely won't have a problem; it's the nature of the beast. Others (like me, for instance, who is spoiled by the bottomless pit of the CD arsenal, the old Expedition) might be left head-scratching figuring out where to put

Current Designs Infinity specs Length 17.9'

Beam 22"

Depth 13.5"

Cockpit 31.75"L x 16.5"W

Total storage 209 liters

Weight 52/48 lbs

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:38:46 AM

Current Designs Infinity Newcastle Island, Nanaimo Harbour

the big-ticket items. The upside is the day hatch is great for loads of miscellaneous gear – a feature I grew to appreciate when organizing odds and ends (I got lazy and dumped, a strategy that worked well). Playing: Being a sports boat, this is what the Infinity is really all about. It is well designed for rolling, a key feature being a low, flexible backrest – handy for fans of rolling, but not necessarily a fit for everyone (one tester found it shy on lower back support for touring). Overall the Infinity is ideal for fans of surf, rapids, rolling and more technical kayaking. Stability: Initial stability is good and secondary stability very good. It tracked on or above par for a skeg boat in both broadside and following weather – a definite strong point to the design. The positives: We tested the Kevlar model, and have to vouch for the weight savings on an already light model (48 pounds Kevlar versus 52 pounds fiberglass). The difference is notable when loading. Thoughtful accessories are found throughout the design, such as the easily-accessible locking footrest adjustment levers. Overall: Buyers should note this is a specialty boat. Thankfully it also looks good on the straightaway and rides comfortably for most larger size ranges, making it an option for casual kayakers who may want to grow into a performance boat. The bottom line is the Infinity does what it is meant to do; Brit boat fans will no doubt debate the degree to which it succeeds compared to other boats for years to come. So let the debate for the best Brit boat rage on as it finally reaches Infinity.

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 29

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

29

5/27/2009 11:38:53 AM

Health and Fitness

by Eric Soares

W

30

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 30

The

TAO

of sea kayaking the sea. Smell the salt in the air and listen to the crying of the sea birds. Watch a swell from a mile away slowly make its way to your beach and break, then slip back to the sea in the rip current. Contemplate the tide as it completes the massive yin and yang of its cycle. See yourself surfing around a sea stack to hide from the wind. Test the waters The second activity is child’s play. To really understand water, stand under the waterfall and feast on the negative ion barrage. Or go to a beach with breaking waves, walk barefoot up and down the beach with your feet barely in the water. You may at first be too conservative and

photo by Michael Powers

E’VE ALL HEARD of the Tao, Chinese for the Way. In the great Tao, the great Way, one embarks on a lifelong sinuous path which begins with an understanding of one’s self and nature and leads to unity with the cosmos. For those not ready to flow with the universe, there is also the little tao, a way of doing things in an efficient, playful and natural manner. In the little tao, one seeks spontaneous, authentic ways to do things, while being centered, balanced, aware and skilled. Of interest to us is the tao of sea kayaking. Here are a few suggestions to help us unite with the cosmos of the sea. Understand water Some kayakers are good at checking the internet for information on tides, water temperature, swell size, wind direction and speed, and the weather forecast. They ensure that their GPS is working, so they will know where they are when on the water. This is an important aspect of sea kayaking, but its focus is on the water, not in the water. Unlike yachting, an on-water activity, kayaking is in-water. You can literally touch the water at will. And when you paddle in the sea, the water can touch you at any time. It’s essential to understand the sea by standing under the sea, so to speak. This means let the sea envelope you and teach you its secrets. This is the tao of sea kayaking. Water is a key concept in Taoism. Water always takes the path of least resistance and flows around obstacles rather than directly opposes them. It constantly changes, slipping downhill like a stream, or surging in and out like the tides. Since our bodies are mostly water, it is natural for humans to understand water. Yet some people have acquired an aversion to being in water. Here are some exercises to help you be one with water and get more out of sea kayaking with less effort. Sit and watch the river flow The first exercise is relaxed observation. Simply go to your nearest natural body of water, be it Walden’s pond, a babbling brook, a river, or the sea, and stay by it for a day, just observing it in a casual way. As a sea kayaker, you’ll want to spend a day by the seashore, whether it be the rocky coast of Maine or a sandy beach in the Sea of Cortez. First thing, take in the vastness of

end up out of the water. Then you get closer to the water, find that you are too slow and a wave hits you. The next thing you know, you are running and skipping and leaping up and down the beach, frolicking in the magic foam. Doesn’t the foam feel good as it twinkles your toes? Before you know it, you’ve gotten hot and need to dive into the water to cool off. Ahh! You experienced the rhythms of the surf first-hand and had a really good time. The tao is so easy. If you can’t do this, have a child show you. Swim like an otter Since you are swimming, why not take the opportunity to body surf? If you feel eager, here’s what you do. From the shore,

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:39:06 AM

photo by Jim Kakuk

In the midst of the cosmic swirl.

photo by Nancy Soares

Remain calm in the midst of chaos.

Tune into the water, tune in to the tao.

photo by Glenn Gilchrist

wade through the waves, turning sideways as each one hits you. When the wave is big enough that you might get knocked backward, dive under it and let its force pass over you. Walk out until it’s difficult to touch bottom and swim around a bit to acclimate. Pay attention to the incoming surf. When a big wave comes and is just ready to break, swim as hard as you can down wave until you feel it engulf you. Then stiffen your body so it resembles a surf board or a dolphin, and effortlessly glide down the wave as long as you can. When the wave spends itself, dive down to the bottom and swim out to sea. Then set up for the next wave. At this stage, you fully understand the sea. You and the sea are one. It’s time for caveats. If you can’t swim well, don’t go out in any body of water until you become proficient. Also, don’t swim alone, in case something happens. If the water is really cold, wear a wetsuit. Should body surfing appear too much for you, start by swimming in lakes, snorkeling in lagoons in the ocean or take a swim in the municipal pool. There is no need to push yourself. Surf like there’s no tomorrow You already have paddling skills, so now take the lessons learned from body surfing and apply them to surf kayaking. Upon arrival at the beach, repeat the first three exercises. Observe the water, waves and wind. Do you like what you see? If not, don’t go out that day. If you do, put on your wetsuit, run along the beach to get your blood moving and test the waters. Do you still feel like getting in? If yes, then swim around a little. Feel good? If affirmative, body surf a couple of waves. Still feel confident? If you are, get in your boat and go surf kayaking. You and the water are synched. Without reservation, go for it 100 per cent. This is the tao of surf kayaking. Know your mind The untrained mind plays tricks on us. Does your mind go blank while paddling? You suddenly realize you have paddled 450 meters without knowing it. This may seem like a good thing if you must paddle 25 miles, but spacing out in zombie mind is not the tao. How often have you had a conversation in your mind while paddling? If you are in the middle of a long crossing, it seems like a worthwhile way to stave off boredom. But

photo by Michael Powers

The Tao of Sea Kayaking

Follow the way, enter new dimensions.

mental chatter is monkey mind and not the tao. Zombie mind and monkey mind can occur while sea kayaking: “I was paddling along, thinking about stuff, doo-de-doo, when a wave appeared out of nowhere SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 31

and wham.” To avoid zombie and monkey thinking, instruct yourself to be alert for it. When it occurs, identify it, dispel it and instead tell your mind to relax, stay perceptive, and concentrate on what is around you and what you are doing. In short, be mindful. To help your mind stay alert, on your next paddle in the ocean, skirt along the coast just outside the surf a few feet. You will learn to be mindful or wham. When staying mindful becomes natural in the water, you are on the path. Train your body Have you ever gotten exhausted while kayaking? Has your back hurt? Have your wrists or shoulders given you problems? Do you gasp for breath after going through the surf? If any of these things occur, you may need a workout regimen to help your body relax and excel in the ocean. We’re not talking about Iron Man training, just having your body do what you want it to do so you don’t get hurt and you move efficiently. The Taoist art of tai chi is a series of gentle martial exercises that increase chi (energy) flow, improve flexibility and balance, regulate breathing, correct posture and help you move your body in a natural, flowing motion. If you do tai chi regularly, your health will improve, and your body will function at a high level. Temper your spirit Why do you kayak? For most of us, there are many reasons, some of which we are not aware. Some people want to show off, others need to prove something. For some paddlers it’s a notch on their bucket list. The Taoist goes out in a kayak for the pure enjoyment of messin’ around in a boat. When your spirit is engaged fully in the activity of sea kayaking, you experience a unique satori (enlightenment). Because you observe water and experience it in many ways, you understand its nature. When everything comes together, your spirit soars through the aquasphere. This is the tao of sea kayaking as I have lived it. But don’t take my word for it; experience it yourself. Your path will differ from mine; that is natural. From what you have read here, take what is useful and leave the rest.  Eric Soares lives in Ashland, Oregon, and paddles the western Pacific coastline with his Tsunami Ranger friends. WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

31

5/27/2009 11:39:10 AM

Skillset

By Alex Matthews

Skookumchuck Narrows, BC

A

STERN RUDDER STROKE is desired course. held comfortably in front of your chest. A the most powerful means of making little trick to ensure that you’ve achieved the When practicing the stern rudder, small course corrections without strive to produce minimal drag from your desired position is to drop your paddle – it slowing your kayak’s forward momentum ruddering paddle blade. The blade should should fall directly into the water without too much. While sometimes erroneously be slicing cleanly into the water, and not bouncing off of your kayak first. From this perceived as a turning stroke, the stern flaring out to the side, splashing lots of position you can use the power of torso rudder is really a steering stroke – it’s water, or creating drag. Having said that, rotation to push away with the backside of ideal, for instance, when gliding through a your paddle blade to steer your kayak. in some surfing situations (like very steep tight gap too narrow for other strokes to From this same setup position, you can waves), including a breaking element in be used. The stern rudder will also help also draw water towards your stern with the stroke may be desirable. A paddler you stay on track when paddling in wind the power face of your blade, which is can choose to intentionally introduce drag and waves. And it’s the key paddle stroke called the stern draw. However, because the by prying out to the side, in a bid to stay that you’ll use to control your kayak while stern pry is so much more powerful than higher up the wave’s face, thereby reducing surfing. the stern draw, we’ll use the pry the vast the chances of burying the kayak’s bow in There are actually two forms of the majority of the time, and simply alternate the wave trough. stern rudder: the stern pry, and the stern sides (right or left) as needed to steer the Also, experiment with combining boat draw. We’ll look at the vastly more angle with your stern pry. Edging powerful stern pry first. your kayak one way or the other To set up for the stern pry, will yield different handling completely submerge your characteristics and provide even ruddering blade as far back as more response and fine control. is comfortable, with the paddle Edging away from your stern parallel to the kayak. This will pry is particularly effective when provide your stroke with the steering a surfing sea kayak. As most power while minimizing any always, practice on both sides braking effect. To do this, you’ll and develop a smooth and need to use some aggressive torso efficient transition from one side rotation, which means turning to the other – this is a skill that your whole upper body towards will pay immediate dividends on your ruddering blade. This rotation your next surf ride.  will keep your hands in front of Adapted from “Sea Kayaking: your body in a powerful position To practice on flat water, build up some speed before planting your Rough Waters” by Alex Matthews and protect your shoulders from stern pry. available at www.Helipress.com. injury. The front hand should be

32

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 32

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:39:13 AM

photos by Rochelle Relyea

Use aggressive torso rotation and a fully submerged blade.

The dropped paddle trick verifies correct posture.

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 33

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

33

5/27/2009 11:39:18 AM

Wildlife

By James Michael Dorsey

Pelican primer T

HE CORNER OF MY EYE catches a blurred streak crashing into the water, and I know my old friend the brown pelican is fishing. It is a rare paddling day that I am not surrounded by these huge coastal seabirds that have become so habituated to man they usually allow my kayak to approach within feet as they bob on the surface between dives. Those of us who frequent the water have all seen them hurtling their bodies at

impossible speed into the briny blue and have probably asked, “How do they do that without a brain injury or a headache at least?” Pelicanus occidentalis, commonly known as the brown pelican, is the smallest of eight species of pelicans but among the largest of seabirds. At 42 to 54 inches tall, with a wingspan of 6 to 8 feet, it is second in size only to the great albatross, and yet

Summer plumage. 34

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 34

SUMMER SUMMER2009 2009

5/27/2009 11:39:29 AM

Brown pelicans with its compact stocky body and long beak, it manages to be both dramatic and comical at the same time. They live 25 to 30 years, reaching their mature feathered plumage at about three years. And while an adult pelican weighs only about 12 pounds, it will consume roughly a third of its body weight daily in small herring-type fish. The brown pelican has a long, twisted neck that has the seventh and ninth vertebrae fused, thus prohibiting it from straightening that long neck. It ends in a 12inch beak with an expandable pouch, which is the fleshy lower part of its jaw and the largest pouch of any known bird. So, about those head-crunching dives: the pelican is a plunge feeder that cruises over the water watching for the silver flash of baitfish near the surface. It then tucks its wings and legs, diving headfirst like a kamikaze into the water. The deeper the fish the higher the pelican will begin its dive, and has been known to fall from as high as 100 feet. They are unique among sea birds in that they have air sacs in their clavicle and under the skin that absorbs much of the impact of these plunges. Watching a hundred of these birds fishing at a time is a majestic sight. Once it breaks the surface, it expands the large pouch that can take in as much as three gallons of water and fish, acting like a large scoop, and then throws its head back to drain the water out through side slits in the beak. The pelican will swallow the fish whole as it has no teeth and always eats immediately after the catch rather than transporting fish in its beak. It is common to see gulls trying to pull fish from the pelican's pouch, often sitting on its head to do so as the pelican is a most inoffensive animal and allows these scavengers great latitude in stealing its work. Pelicans often travel in flocks consisting of both male and female, and love to fly in a V formation, taking turns drafting on the wings of the lead bird (think NASCAR). From these formations they strafe the waves in search of food, and it is common to find dozens of them hunting in a small area. They are not taught to hunt by their parents but learn to do so by trial and error. Immature birds do not fare well due to this

lack of experience, and it is believed that almost one third of yearling birds starve to death because of this. As a result they are also great scavengers who haunt docks and fishing launches looking for handouts – one reason why they often approach my kayak. Their nesting and breeding habits are the really cool part. These birds tend to gather in large colonies sometimes called a rookery, and nest very close to each other. The male will pick a nesting area, sometimes on the ground and sometimes in a tree. He will court the female with an elaborate series of head movements, trying to not be so aggressive she is frightened away. The female will take a couple days to make up her mind, (does this sound familiar?) acting coy, but also being aggressive enough to show other male suitors her interest in the original head bobber. In a large rookery, this mating dance can get quite comical, almost like being on a disco floor in the ’70s. Also during this ritual they are known to make a popping sound that is the result of them snapping their jaws. If she is interested, the male will bring her sticks, branches and twigs (and what female can refuse a free tree branch?) that she will begin to weave together into a nest. Sometimes the nest can get very elaborate, especially those in the trees. It can take

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 35

Winter plumage.

as long as ten days for this job to be completed and the lovebirds then move in. Once the happy couple has taken up residency, the first of three eggs will appear within three days, with a day between each egg. Both parents will take turns incubating the eggs. Since the pelican has extremely vascularized legs and feet (lots of blood vessels), this keeps the eggs warm until they hatch in about one month. X

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

35

5/27/2009 11:39:35 AM

Wildlife At birth the chicks are totally helpless and the parents will feed them by regurgitating food onto the floor of the nest for them to peck at. At about ten days, they have begun to grow feathers and will also begin to take regurgitated food directly from the parent’s beak at this time. If food is scarce only the strongest chick will be fed to assure its survival and the others will pass away. The chick needs to eat a lot to store body fat because at just 11 weeks he or she

is ready to face the world on its own. Immature birds are known to make a raspy croaking scream but as adults they are mostly mute except during mating. So now that you have the basics, it is time for the really unusual facts. You would think because of its enormous pouch the pelican would also have a large tongue, but in fact it is about the size of a toothpick. Because it has to swallow fish whole, a large tongue would

just get in the way. It also uses that long beak to gather oils from glands at the base of its tail to preen and waterproof its feathers. For areas it cannot reach with its beak, the bird has a serrated middle nail on its webbed foot that takes care of this job. When the pelican gets too hot it will open its pouch and flutter the sides, causing an air flow to evaporate surface moisture. This is a cooling process similar to humans sweating.

Our way to say thanks. Go on. Pick one. Wavelength Magazine is thanking our subscribers with a draw for a choice of these kayaks. Everyone who subscribes or renews is automatically entered to win. For complete information on each model, visit www.wavlengthmagazine.com

1. Seaward Quantum 2. Delta 16 3. Current Designs Infinity 4. BoréalDésign Epsilon C100, C200 or C300

Answer to skill-testing question required (4x9)-16=? No purchase necessary. Void where prohibited by law.

Subscribe:

NORTH AMERICA:

$20/1 YEAR – 4 ISSUES

$35/2 YEARS – 8 ISSUES

INTERNATIONAL:

$30/1 YEAR – 4 ISSUES

$54/2 YEARS – 8 ISSUES

PLEASE ENTER ME IN THE DRAW AS I AM ALREADY A SUBSCRIBER OR DO NOT WISH TO SUBSCRIBE. NAME

_______________________________________________

ADDRESS CITY

___________________________________________

________________________________________________

PROV / STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________ POSTAL / ZIP CODE ___________________________________ PHONE

______________________________________________

EMAIL

______________________________________________

Please note personal information will not be shared, sold or marketed for any reason at any time. Email addresses are used only for subscription renewal notices to save paper.

Call: 1-866-984-6437 • Buy or renew online at: www.wavelengthmagazine.com/Subscribe.html. It’s easy and safe! Mail a check (or cheque) to: Wild Coast Publishing, #6 10 Commercial St., Nanaimo, BC, Canada, V9R 5G2 36

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 36

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:39:38 AM

Brown pelicans The only real enemy these birds have is man. During the 1960s DDT almost made them extinct, but fortunately they made a comeback and today their numbers are climbing. Because they never pass up a free meal I have had them approach me for an occasional anchovy that I often scoop out of the water to feed them, and once I had a very tired youngster make a crash landing on my deck. He got twisted under my deck bungee and took a header into the drink. He was completely embarrassed until I could free his captive webbies. Observing these unique creatures has taught me a great deal about the interconnection between man, animals and the ocean, and I consider them a paddling partner to be appreciated. They are the rare sea bird that actually drinks saltwater. They have no nostrils but instead have glands that reside between the

eyes and beak that allow them to distill the saltwater and pass the brine off in large droplets. Gulls have this same ability.

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 37

 James Michael Dorsey can be reached at [email protected]

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

37

5/27/2009 11:39:43 AM

Planning and Safety

by Michael Pardy

Kayaking and relationships I

WAS AT a dinner party recently with a number of other kayakers. And as kayakers are wont, we turned our conversation to paddling. We quickly exhausted the usual topics – the relative merits of various pieces of gear, our latest on-water adventures, and our paddling plans for the summer. More interesting was the conservation that followed. It started when J (who is single) bemoaned the shortage of single paddlers and the challenges she faced when trying to introduce her latest partner to the sport. Apparently things weren’t going well on the water between J and her partner. Soon most of us were sharing our own challenges, misadventures and lessons from paddling with our families, wives, husbands and partners. It was a rich vein for conversation and kept us going for over an hour. It also got me thinking about the experiences of other friends, family and colleagues. Over the years I have had versions of this conversation with my parents, my wife, my son, friends of the family and others. There is also a growing body of literature about relationships in outdoor sports. It is clearly a sensitive issue, but also an important one that speaks to the pleasures and challenges of kayaking with people emotionally important to us.

38

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 38

Kayak outings need not be a shortcut to divorce court I have tried to look for underlying themes in these conversations and support this anecdotal evidence with the technical literature. There are two main challenges that have emerged as consistent issues facing families and couples in outdoor sports. Different Goals and Expectations One person’s passion is another’s parttime pastime, which can lead to conflict over time, money and commitment. Many

couples and families want to spend time together recreating; conflict arises when limited resources have to be allocated. It is easy for one person in a relationship to feel undervalued in the face of a passion. One paddling friend actually describes herself as a kayak widow in the face of her partner’s passion. Even if all members of the family enjoy paddling, they often enjoy paddling for different reasons. This point was brought home to me several years ago when my wife and I were planning a multi-day trip on the west coast with our four year old. I was looking forward to a few days on the open coast. My wife was more interested in exploring the local ecosystem. But it was my son who really brought the point home. His priority was to spend time with his family, regardless of our destination. We all wanted to go paddling, but for three distinct reasons. Reconciling differing goals and expectations is not easy. The first step is actually articulating a set of goals and expectations. The second step is compromise. Not all goals and expectations can be accommodated in a single trip. Often family members and couples will have to create space for another’s passion. But equally, the passionate paddler will have to

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:39:55 AM

Kayaking couples give up some water time for other priorities or work toward other goals on trips. Learning from a Partner Many friends expressed their frustration at learning from a more experienced partner. The learners all expressed feelings of vulnerability, which often went unacknowledged by the teacher/partner. The teachers often felt frustrated by the lack of speedy progress of their student/ partner. The student-teacher relationship is based on a fundamental inequality that can be incompatible with our social relationships. Many couples agreed it was better to learn from an independent instructor. If couples insisted on teaching and learning together they offered the following advice. Teachers, acknowledge that learning takes time, practice and patience. Offer suggestions, not commands. Accept that your partner may not share your passion. Be honest about your own abilities, knowledge and experience. Learners, accept that your partner may not be the best teacher, regardless of how much ability, knowledge and experience they have. Acknowledge that your partner wants you to succeed so you can enjoy the activity together. Be honest and gentle in your feedback. I have had to work through many of these issues in my role first as boyfriend,

then husband and now father. My wife occasionally reminds me I am lucky to still be around because early in our relationship I tried to teach her how to whitewater canoe. My tone of voice and style of teaching were better suited to working with male teenagers (with whom I had been teaching for a few years). The situation came to a head after a particularly challenging afternoon, and if we had been paddling a shorter canoe, she would have decapitated me with the paddle! I am happy to report we survived these early experiences and we continue to enjoy our time on the water together as a family. When asked what skills would have the most impact on their enjoyment of paddling with their partners and families, most folks emphasized the need for better communication. Specifically, folks talked about the importance of listening to what is being said (and left unsaid), creating a time out for communication so the pressures of time and risk can be mitigated, and making sure everyone has a chance to talk. None of this is new information to couples and families. What is perhaps new is its importance in paddling, where many of us turn to get away from the demands of work and family.

Exploring BC?

 Michael Pardy lives in Victoria, where he runs SKILS Ltd. He can be reached at [email protected].

Discover Wavelength's recreation map series.

• Desolation Sound/ Discovery Islands • Broken Group / Barkley Sound • Clayoquot Sound At all major retailers or online at wavelengthmagazine.com SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 39

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

39

5/27/2009 11:39:57 AM

Fishing Angles

by Dan Armitage

L

AST SPRING, boating made national news due to an anchoring mishap involving several professional athletes, three of whom lost their lives. As soon as I heard the anglers were fishing a sunken wreck in the Gulf of Mexico, I had a handle on what had happened. Having fished offshore wrecks myself, I know that you need to anchor the boat to remain over the structure and the fish the wreck attracts. I also know how dangerous that can be when waves or wind or current – or all three – kick up and start dashing an anchored boat around. Unless you have a way of quickly releasing that anchor line, the conditions can quickly conspire to swamp the boat, using the force of the unforgiving tether against those of the sea. I suspect that the anchor line on the ill-fated boat in question was made tight to a cleat on the bow, and before that line could be loosed – by untying the knot, slipping the noose or cutting it outright – the damage had been done and the boat had swamped. Those same forces come into play aboard any boat that is linked to the water’s bottom via an anchor, and few craft are as vulnerable to the consequences as a kayak. Anglers considering using an anchor to stop or slow their kayak’s passage must weigh their options – and each situation – carefully. Anchors are powerful tools for anglers, allowing their boats to remain in position within catching range of the fish being sought. The bottom-hugging devices are also dangerous in current, a condition that kayakers frequently – and intentionally – surround themselves with. Avoiding immersion in our favorite element is a matter of knowing when and where an anchor is appropriate and when it is not. It is always risky to anchor in current, and the consequences of a lightweight boat coming to a dead stop when an anchor suddenly catches can be quick and dangerous.

40

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 40

Anchors or stakes can be used to keep the kayak in place while fishing, even if the angler is not aboard.

Staying put a simple do-it-yourself project with a little rope and chain The most important part of a kayak’s ground tackle, as anchoring gear is known in boating circles, is found on the boat end of the rig. You must be able to quickly release the anchor line, or rode, if you find yourself in a situation that risks swamping your craft. Several styles of quick-release jam cleats are available and popular with paddlers, devices that are mounted on the gunwale that use the line’s own tension to keep it snug without having to tie off with a knot or use a loop. A quick flick will loose the line and free the kayak from anchor. Some kayakers place a colorful float on the end of the line to allow them to spot it and retrieve the anchor rig once they gain more control over the situation. On the positive side, it doesn’t take much weight to slow or stop the progress of a boat as sleek and light as a kayak. Anchors designed for paddle-powered craft are much smaller than those intended for traditional boats, and weight is only one factor in an anchor’s design. Anchors use weight, shape or a combination of both to achieve their task. Grapnel anchors are relatively light in

weight but their claw-like arms grab and hold subsurface structure such as rock and wood to tether their craft in place. Compact mushroom anchors rely on weight more than shape, and are best used on mud or sand or structure-free bottoms. Between those two extremes are anchors of various shapes and designs, many home made. A do-it-yourself anchor One favorite do-it-yourself anchor among kayak anglers is made of short lengths of 3/8-inch-diameter chain attached to the end of a line using a snap or carabiner. Having a few foot-long lengths of a dozen links or so allows the angler to quickly attach only as much weight as is needed to anchor or slow the drift of a kayak. A benefit of the chain is that its shape is such that it rarely hangs up on rocks or other structure, making it a favorite among fishermen in current who want to slow their drift to a pace that allows them to work an area with casts without stopping altogether. Another issue is the anchor point on the kayak itself. Many kayak anglers prefer the anchor line to be snug to the boat’s stern, so that the wind or current is at the angler’s back, making for easier casting and a unobstructed view “downstream.” A kayak’s shape dictates that the safest anchor in terms of stability is off the bow or stern, but in cases when the wind and current are moderate, you can vary the anchor point along the length of the kayak to better position yourself with regard to your target.

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:39:59 AM

Kayak anchors

That’s why many fishing kayaks are fitted with trolley systems down one side of their boat, either home-made or available as aftermarket accessories or options from some manufacturers. These clotheslinetype rigs allow infinite adjustment of that anchor or pivot point from the comfort of the cockpit, yet maintain the all-important quick-release safety feature. A final anchoring device, the stake, is popular with anglers who get out and wade, using their kayaks simply to get to and from the fishing grounds before exiting the craft to pursue their quarry on foot. Just remember to keep a close eye on the wind, current and tide when walking away from a staked-out kayak; an oversight could leave you up that creek without paddle or a boat. 

Dan Armitage is a boating, fishing and travel writer based in the Midwest. He is a licensed (USCG Master) captain, hosts a syndicated radio show and presents kayaking fishing seminars at boat shows.

Grapnel, for gripping, and chain for gliding are two extremes in kayak anchor designs.

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 41

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

41

5/27/2009 11:40:02 AM

Reflections

Writing reflecting the spirit of paddling

By Terry Johnson

Mixing it up in Killarney “C

OME ON – put in on,” prods Rebecca, my 14year-old stepdaughter. She prances around to show me that wearing a lifejacket upside down like a diaper is not embarrassing or un-cool at all. “Just do it! It’s so fun.” With complete abandon, she does a little jig on the rock, and then leaps into the lake with a splash. “Dia-per-BOB, dia-per-BOB,” chant Rebecca and her sister Victoria, trying to coax me to stick my legs into the armholes of my zipped-up life jacket, wiggle it up past my butt and bob around in the lake with them. We were on a one-week paddling vacation along the outskirts of Killarney Provincial Park in Ontario. Denis, my husband, his two girls Victoria, age 12 and Rebecca, and our dog Tanzer were on this adventure we had talked about for years. Now, we were finally doing it. We had stopped early today. This cute little island we checked out for a midmorning blueberry-picking break proved too nice to leave. Now it looked like “diaper bobbing” was going to be the afternoon entertainment. I finally gave up my dignity and donned the diaper, struck a pose on the rock, and to the sound of applause, jumped in. We had seven portages planned for our second day moving along the northwest side of Killarney. We were coming up to our third portage when Rebecca, my paddling partner for the day asked, “Can I carry the canoe?” “Wow! Sure you can!” We got out and unloaded. I showed Rebecca the easiest way to pick up a canoe. “Stand in front of me there, Beck, and help me roll it up. Do it together ... ready ... keep the bow on the ground ... up ... that’s it.” We stood holding the canoe over our heads. I told her to let go and move up to get under the yoke. Gingerly I lowered the canoe to rest on her narrow shoulders. Rebecca lifted the bow off the ground

42

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 42

Canoe trip proves the perfect outing for blended family and stood a moment balancing the canoe. Dad went nuts with the camera snapping pictures. Rebecca gamely headed down the trail with me behind in case she needed to take a break. A slippery root almost spelled disaster, but she strained, paused, rebalanced the canoe and continued on for the entire 280 metres. I helped her take the canoe off and we high-fived each other. Her flushed face broke into a wide grin of accomplishment. I grinned with accomplishment as well. That high five was a little moment that we could call our own. Near the end of the day I heard Tanzer splash into the water just ahead of me, though she is not a water dog. I came round the corner with the canoe on my shoulders and there, not six feet from me, were two otters rising so far out of the water that they looked like little totem poles.

Diaper bobbing, an activity combining relaxation with a complete loss of dignity.

They began to “psht” at me – a wet noise of air forced out of their nostrils. Tanzer stood frozen on shore. I kept still with the canoe not wanting to scare them off. They flared their nostrils, twitched their whiskers and pulsed up and down in the water. “Psht,” I said back to them, and they looked at me with renewed interest. Finally, I heard a noise behind me. “Look at the otters!” I whispered. “Oh!” Vicky gasped. I put the canoe down and the otters moved away slightly. I could see two more otters – an adult with three young. The adult was sitting on a log next to the shore eating a piece of fish. Her sharp teeth gleamed as she fiercely chewed with an open mouth, and we could hear the wet smacking sounds. She slipped into the water and all four of them glided farther away. The young ones peeked back at us once, and then began to playfully roll over each other. We watched together in silence, and then, “That was so cool!” Rebecca said. Back home the girls and I gathered around the kitchen table with the full Killarney map spread out. “Who can draw our route on the map?” I challenged. Rebecca picked up the highlighter and began to retrace our trip. “And this portage is where we hid under the boat from the lightning ... and ... this is the campsite Vicky got busted with her candy-stash in the tent. And this is the beach we had the water races ... ” Looking back we could see the distance we covered, paddling and portaging completely by our own power; carrying everything we needed to live. The challenges of the portages and headwinds are like the challenges faced by a blended family. Both require some work, but the rewards are always worth it. We caught eyes, united in our appreciation of ourselves – and maybe a little closer now than when we left.  Terry Johnson is already planning her next paddling adventure. Visit her at www.terrylynnjohnson.com

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:40:03 AM

Kayak With Comfort

Explore the BC coast by day, enjoy luxury by night at these resorts that specialize in catering to kayakers

2 West Coast Vancouver Island ÕV…>̏ˆÌâÊÏ>˜`Ê

1

Kayak with Comfort 2

1 Inside Passage

BDRMCABININTHE.UCHATLITZ0ROVINCIAL 0ARKAREAOF.OOTKA)SLAND "#

3

1 Inside Passage Experience Nature in Comfort

*iÀviVÌÊ>ÃÊ>ÊL>ÃiÊvœÀÊÕ«Ê̜ÊnÊ«iœ«i°Ê
VViÃÈLiÊLÞÊÜ>ÌiÀÊ œ˜Þ°Ê*ÀœÌiVÌi`Ê`œVŽ]ʓˆ˜ÕÌiÃÊvÀœ“Ê̅iʜ«i˜Ê*>VˆwV°Ê >À}iʜ«i˜Ê«>˜Êœ˜Ê̅iʓ>ˆ˜ÊyœœÀÊ܈̅Ê{ÊL`À“ÃÊ>LœÛi°Ê ÓÊL`À“ÃÊ܈̅ʵÕii˜ÊLi`Ã°Ê ÓÊ܈̅ÊÌ܈˜ÊLi`ðÊ*Àœ«>˜iÊÃ̜Ûi]ÊvÀˆ`}iÊ>˜` …œÌÊÜ>ÌiÀ°Ê œ˜‡Ã“œŽˆ˜}°ÊWWWNUCHATLITZISLANDCOM Óxä‡ÎÎLJx£näÊÊÊÊ`œÃVœÌÌÓäääJ…œÌ“>ˆ°Vœ“

Luxurious Waterfront Lodge, Cabins & Platform Tents • Kayak/Yoga Retreats • Wildlife & Bird Watching • Family & Group Holidays • Clubs • Meetings

RENDEZVOUS ISLAND, BC CANADA

www.solstuawest.com

HEALING WATERS BEACH RETREAT

Cortes Island, BC Canada 2 Bedroom Cottages Sandy Beach, Warm Ocean Water Double Kayak Rentals Beachside Wood Fired Hot Tub

Home base for up to 10 kayakers 250-935-6409 www.cortesisland.com/healingwaters [email protected]

Private Island Paradise in Kyuquot. Rustic Elegance on the West Coast of Vancouver Island. Bring your own boat or kayak. Uchuck cruises weekly. Boat Charters & Kayak Transport.

1.888.920.6075 [email protected] www.seaotterlodgebc.com

3 Gulf Islands CASA BLANCA

BED & BREAKFAST ON THE BEACH

Copper Kettle Bed & Breakfast 465 Stewart Ave Nanaimo, BC V9S 4C7 250-740-3977 1-877-740-3977

~ Traditional, cozy, English-style accommodation. ~ Delectable breakfast, queen beds, shower ensuite. ~ Great paddling possibilities: we are one block from sea front where you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour. Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk, swim or picnic. ~ Close to downtown Nanaimo ~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay.

Gabriola’s South Coast Paradise Beachfront • Wildlife • Hot Tub Gabriola Island, BC

KAYAK RENTALS 250-247-9824 www.members.shaw.ca/casa_blanca

www.copperkettlebc.com

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 43

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

43

5/27/2009 11:40:04 AM

Marketplace Courses and instruction

Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC

David Dreves Kayaking

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

"Paddle Canada" certified kayak courses in White Rock / Crescent Beach. Flatwater Kayaking, Level 1 Sea Kayaking & Level 2 Sea Kayaking. Kayak Tours in Southwestern BC. Phone: 604-318-4019 Web: www.kayakcourses.ca Email: [email protected]

Experience IS Necessary! Since 1991, the Kayak Academy has been providing the best sea kayak experience you can get. Count on us for all your paddling gear. Phone: 206.527.1825 or toll-free 866.306.1825 Web: www.kayakacademy.com Email: [email protected]

Hooksum Outdoor School

The Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC is a non-profit society which upholds high standards for professional sea kayak guides and operators in BC. Through on-going professional development and certification, the Alliance strives to ensure safe practices on an industry-wide basis.

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training. Quality skills training. Hesquiaht traditional knowledge. Certification courses include: Sea-kayaking Flatwater, Level I & II (Paddle Canada), Advanced Wilderness First Aid, Lifesaving, BOAT, and ROC(M). Phone: 250.670.1120 Web: www.hooksumschool.com Email: [email protected]

Associations

2009 Guide Exams Level 2 Exams June 5-6, 2009 Victoria Level 3 Exams June 19-21, 2009 Tofino Check the website for Fall 2009 exam dates.

4().+342!)4


'EORGIA3TRAITIS#ANADAS I I I D  hMOSTAT RISKNATURALENVIRONMENTv -AKEATAXDEDUCTIBLEDONATIONTODAY 0ROTECTOURPADDLINGWATERS

SKGABC Membership To become a member of the Alliance, mail this form and a check to the address below. □ Company membership: $100/year □ Individual membership: $35 / year □ Associate membership: $25 / year

guide certification courses

Name: _____________________ Address: ____________________ ___________________________ Phone: _____________________ Email: ______________________ SEA KAYAK GUIDES ALLIANCE OF BC P.O. Box 1005, Station A, Nanaimo BC, V9R 5Z2 [email protected] 44

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 44

advanced skills training

   'EORGIA3TRAIT!LLIANCE WWW'EORGIA3TRAITORG ¹!L(ARVEYWWWSLIDEFARMCOM3ANDY)SLAND-ARINE0ARK

taught by dan lewis and bonny glambeck in clayoquot sound, tofino bc. www. rainforestkayak. com 877-422-9453

SUMMER 2009

guide certification courses advanced skills training

5/27/2009 11:40:10 AM

Marketplace Associations

RE S

250-247-8939 Adventure Outfitters

Mothership AdventureS Luxury Mothership Sea Kayaking

U

KAYA

K

VA BA IL

Y

S

Tours and services: BC, Canada

Natural History, Cultural, Historical Tours

A DV E N T

Explore the beautiful Gulf Islands

www.silvabaykayaking.com

Accommodation

Explore B.C.’s remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety!

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

Lake Tahoe Vacation Rentals www.mothershipadventures.com

Homeaway.com has 1000+ Lake Tahoe vacation rentals available, from rustic cabins to waterfront estates. Search homeaway.com now for great deals on vacation homes in South Lake Tahoe. Phone: Toll-free 866-771-3010 Web: www.homeaway.com Email: [email protected]

Paddling Gear

New !

C-Tug Canoe & Kayak Trolley ● Stows in your canoe or kayak hatch ● Assembles in seconds ● Non-corroding construction materials ● Pneumatic tires ● Weighs only 12 lbs. ● Supports 300 lbs ● Lifetime warranty ● C-Tug – Durable, Practical, Simple and Affordable! Phone: 604-781-8042 Web: www.c-tug.ca Email: [email protected] or try [email protected]

Transport

New !

Eco Adventures & Education since 1991

Eclectic itineraries for the Gulf Islands & Costa Rica Kayaking, Sailing, Hiking, Climbing, Surfing... * School programs * Team Building Retreats * Guides’ Courses Clothing/Gear Shop & 2 Accommodations on Salt Spring Island

Lessons, tours, memories No experience necessary. River and ocean tours, whitewater kayak lessons, elite summer camps, custom tours, courses and adult getaways. Find your adventurous side and join us on the water! Phone: 1-888-KS-KAYAK or 250-701-1888 Web: www.kindredspiritkayak.com Email: [email protected]

1 888 529-2567 • 250 537 2553 • www.islandescapades.com

Tours and Services: Alaska

Sea Kayak Transport

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Campbell River, BC water taxi and eco-tours to Desolation Sound and Discovery Archipelago. Affordable kayak transport (4 max) to marine parks and wilderness areas. World-class paddling for all levels. Phone: 250-218-3457 Web: www.morningstarmarine.com Email: [email protected]

Gabriola Sea Kayaking offers Unforgettable, Fun and Affordable Multiday Tours, Groups and Courses in Kyuquot, Broken Group, Clayoquot, Nootka, Broughtons and the Gulf Islands. Hope to paddle with you this season! Phone: 250-247-0189 Web: www.kayaktoursbc.com

SUMMER 2009

WL_SU09_master.indd 45

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

45

5/27/2009 11:40:13 AM

Marketplace Tours and services: BC, Canada

'7!))(!!.!3 (AIDA'WAII &ABULOUSMOTHERSHIPKAYAKING

Blue Vista Resort & Mayne Islandd Kayaking Kay Accommodation, Rentals, Tours and Lessons. Visit Mayne Island and Gulf Islands National Park.

3PECTACULARNATURALECOSYSTEMS 5NIQUE(AIDACULTURALHERITAGE WWW4OUR(AIDA'WAIICOM    !RCHIPELAGO6ENTURES,TD

Kayak Desolation Sound

Wilderness Sea Kayaking

All-inclusive guided tours: Into the Majestic Mountains & Desolation Sound. Day tours include Savary Reefs Explorer and the popular Sea Creatures Explorer. Kayak rentals available at locations in Lund and Okeover Inlet. Phone: Toll free 1-866-617-4444 Web: www.bcseakayak.com Email: [email protected]

Sharing the remote Kyuquot area, Northwest Vancouver Island since 1972! Base camping luxuries. Professional guides. Spectacular kayaking options. Diverse wildlife. Local First Nations’ ownership and cultural interaction. Phone: 1.800.665.3040 or 250.338.2511 Web: www.westcoastexpeditions.com Email: [email protected]

'!,)!./)3,!.$ "#+!9!+).' 9%!22/5.$ #/34!2)#!ˆ/3!0%.).35,!

Sealegs Kayaking Adventures Sealegs’ Eco-Adventure Centre offers waterfront access at Transfer Beach Ladysmith. Guided wilderness tours, rentals, lessons and sales from our pro shop. Multi-day adventures, FREE lessons with tours and rentals. Phone: 250-245-4096 or 1-877-KAYAK BC (529-2522) Web: www.SealegsKayaking.com Email: [email protected]

Batstar Adventure Tours Professionally guided sea kayaking trips to Vancouver Island and Canada's Central Coast. All inclusive. We're thrilled to be the only Vancouver Island-based guided sea kayaking company on the National Geographic Best Travel Adventure Companies on Earth list. Phone: 1-877-449-1230 Web: www.batstar.com

46

WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

WL_SU09_master.indd 46

Tours and Services: East Canada

7 days in paradise, weekly Dec–Apr since 1987 Ph/Fax: 250-539-2442 [email protected] www.seakayak.ca

Freewheeling Adventures Elements Women's Travel Adventure tours for women. Unique day and multi-day tours in the coastal waters of BC. Custom itineraries for women, all designed to 'get into your element'! Phone: 250-245-9580 Web: www.elementstravel.com Email: [email protected]

Bamfield, British Columbia Accommodations, self-guided kayak rentals and kayak transport between the Broken Group Islands, Deer Group Islands and Bamfield. 14 years experience in planning kayak vacations in Barkley Sound. Phone: 1-888-728-6200 Web: www.brokenislandadventures.com Email: [email protected]

Odyssey Kayaking BC Ferries port; Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations. Sales, Rentals, Lessons, Trip planning, and Custom Tours. 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port Hardy. Phone: 250-902-0565 or toll-free 1-888-792-3366 Email: [email protected] Web: www.odysseykayaking.com


t

XXXLBZBLNBZOFJTMBOEDPN

*…\ÊÓxä‡xΙ‡xxxÎ

,i˜Ì>Ã]Ê/œÕÀÃ]ÊiÃܘà ÀœLiÀÌLÀÕViJÌiÕð˜iÌ £Ó£Ê œœÌÊ œÛiÊ,`°]Ê->ÌÕÀ˜>ÊÏ>˜`]Ê Ê6ä ÊÓ9ä

For discriminating paddlers. Nova Scotia, PEI, Cape Breton, Quebec. Inn-based paddling; yacht-supported camping; or multisport. Guided small groups, private, or self-guided adventures, day trips, and quality rentals. Exquisite picnics. Local guides. Phone: 1-800-672-0775. Web: www.freewheeling.ca Email: [email protected]

MKCCA 3EA+AYAKING  BVYVlVh`V@Vcj8ZcigZ adXViZYWn6a\dcfj^c EVg`!DciVg^dd[[Zgh]^\]an eZghdcVa^chigjXi^dc [gdb7Z\^ccZgid:meZgi aZkZah#LZZ`ZcY VcY*"9Vn8djghZh#

Tours and Services: Yukon

Kanoe People Ltd. Explore Yukon's great rivers and lakes! Rentals, sales, guided tours and logistic services. Cabin rentals summer and winter on the scenic Lake Laberge. Outfitting on the Yukon for over 35 years. Web: www.kanoepeople.com Email: [email protected] Phone: 867-668-4899

SUMMER 2009

5/27/2009 11:40:27 AM

WL_SU09_master.indd 47

5/27/2009 11:40:32 AM

explore canada’s coastal national parks Gwaii Haanas National Park G Reserve and Haida Heritage Site R Réserve de parc national et site du R ppatrimoine Haïda Gwaii Haanas

explorez les parcs nationaux côtiers du canada

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve Réserve de parc national Pacific Rim

Gulf Islands National Park Reserve Réserve de parc national des Îles-Gulf

www. pc.gc.ca

WL_SU09_master.indd 48

5/27/2009 11:40:33 AM