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kailua Six Adventures in Your Own Backyard Why I Love Kailua famed kailuans on what makes this place special

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plus: the hike that lets you escape

knows hidden neighborhoods,

knows what’s listed,

how the area is changing,

where the main streets are,

where prices are rising,

how to find homes with a map.

where traffic slows down, how schools differ, who might be selling soon, where to find tiramisu on a Tuesday night.

If you want to know about Kailua, ask an insider. There’s more to a house than square footage. That’s why our Windward realtors don’t just work in Kailua, we’re part of the community. We believe the more insight we have, the better we can help you locate just the right home. And because we also understand that your time is precious, we offer the convenience of one-stop services for financing, title and escrow, along with the free assistance of Coldwell Banker Concierge®. Let us help you with all your real estate needs.

For more information, call 808-263-4700 or visit us at ColdwellBankerPacific.com WINDWARD OFFICE: 629 KAILUA ROAD, SUITE 212 , KAILUA, HI 96734 Coldwell Banker Pacific Properties Offices: King Street | Waikiki | Kahala | Leeward | Each office independently owned and operated. ©2007 Coldwell Banker Real Estate Corporation. Coldwell Banker is a registered trademark licensed to Coldwell Banker Real Estate Corporation. An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. Owned and Operated by NRT Incorporated.

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contents welcome FRO M O UR S PO N S OR

Aloha and mahalo to all who have given their time and money to continue to make Kailua the special place we live in. Our ongoing conversations with Kailua residents and our merchants continue to provide us focus and direction while implementing our community renewal strategy.

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Why I Love Kailua

Some of the most recognizable faces in Kailua share what makes this area so special. BY D ENNI S HO L LIE R

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Adventures in Kailua

Highlights of the past year include:

•

A new Kailua Boys & Girls Club now oper-

ates out of Kailua Intermediate School, and has more than 500 members in its first year.

•

The fence separating the parking lots of

Don Quijote and Safeway was removed in early October. Who would have thought this would please so many people!

Want to entertain kids, or call in sick to the office, or make the most of a Saturday? Here are six ways you can explore Windward’s collective backyard.

on enhancing our public places, including public

BY D ENNI S HO L LIE R

art at our new projects, and fountains at Kainalu

•

Our community renewal strategy focused

PHOTOS: ALEX VIARNES

Plaza. Additional benches and bike racks were

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Pillbox High

A Kailua-based hiker shares a favorite local trail to tranquility. BY JAMES DANNE NBE RG

installed throughout Kailua, and there’s now a wide, covered, landscaped walkway alongside the new Pier1 Imports. Ranch’s responsibility is to man• Kane‘ohe age the lands in Kailua owned by the Castle family entities and the Harold K.L. Castle Foundation, the largest Hawai‘i-based private foundation. The Castle Foundation’s main areas of focus are

kailua (808) 537-9500 F(808) 537-6455

HONOLULU M AGAZINE P

www.honolulumagazine.com

Scott Schumaker scotts@pacificbasin.net 534-7541 EDITOR A. Kam Napier kam@pacificbasin.net 534-7546 MANAG I NG EDITOR Kathryn Drury Wagner kathrynw@pacificbasin.net 534-7524 ART DIRECTOR Kristin Gonzales kristing@pacificbasin.net 534-7560 ADV E RTI SING DIREC TOR Donna Kodama-Yee donnaky@pacificbasin.net 534-7501 PUBLISHER

public education, strengthening Windward communities and near-shore marine resource conservation. During the coming year, we intend to continue monitoring the progress of the City’s discussions while evaluating Kailua’s potential for bicycling. The dialogues concerning funding of the restoration of significant Hawai‘i places and the wildlife habitat in Kawai Nui Marsh will continue. This year promises to be an exciting time, and we stand firm to honor what residents care about most in our vibrant community.

Written, designed and published by PacificBasin Comm Kailua is published as a supplement to HONOLULU Magazine, April 2007. ©2007 by PacificBasin Communications, 1000 Bishop St., Suite 405, Honolulu, HI 96813 O N T H E C OVER Maunawili Falls, by Kailua-based photographer Alex Viarnes.

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Aloha, Kane‘ohe Ranch Co. kailua APRIL 2007 KM 3

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State Senator Fred Hemmings Fred Hemmings is a veteran waterman. He’s a paddler and a former champion surfer—he helped found the pro surf tour—so the outdoors is a big part of what he loves about Kailua and what he sees in its future. Now a state senator, Hemmings still takes advantage of what he calls “the blessings of nature: ocean, beach and land,” and paddles in Kailua Bay. “To my great glee,” Hemmings says, “I recently found a Masters’ Program. That’s just a nice way of saying, ‘the old guys and gals.’” But the camaraderie with the other paddlers is clearly important to him. “It’s rare,” he says. “It’s a sport. But mostly it’s a lifestyle. But then, Kailua’s a lifestyle unto itself.” The senator has a project: He’s working to reattach the proper Hawaiian names to places here. “For example,” he says, “What we call ‘Flat Island,’ is really Popoi‘a, and it has a wonderful little legend to it. There was a fishing shrine on that beautiful island. And what we now call Smith Point—or WaiLea - Point have significant archaeologiPoint—and Alala cal sites on them. The Hawaiians were adroit at using them for triangulating fishing spots. There’s a wonderful wealth of Hawaiiana waiting to be born and kindled.”

BY D ENNIS H OL L IE R PHOTO S BY A L E X VIA RN E S

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Why I Love Kailua Some of the most recognizable faces in Kailua share what makes this area so special.

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Don Dymond For a man who moved to Kailua to slow down, Don Dymond keeps pretty busy. It’s what you might expect for a man who owns two businesses—the old Kalapawai Market by Kailua Beach, and the new Kalapawai Café in downtown Kailua. But Dymond, a former real estate developer, insists this is the easy life. “It’s a lifestyle,” he says, “and I can’t think of a better place to do it than Kailua.” Maybe it’s not so much the pace as the atmosphere that makes Kailua the ideal place for Dymond. “There’s a core group of people who really like to live here, and they make the difference. After a heart attack and bypass, it took living in a community like this, laughing and smiling, for me to really slow down.” All you have to do is visit him at one of his stores to see what he means. Both shops are busy, but they’re easygoing, small-town kinds of places. Dymond mixes easily with the customers. And, whether buying coffee at the market (the oldest coffee bar in Kailua), or sipping a glass of chardonnay at the café’s wine bar, everyone seems to be on a first-name basis.

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Joanne Flannery A conversation with Joanne Flannery inevitably highlights the people who make Kailua special. She talks about ‘Ahahui Malama i ka Lokahi - “Lord of the Marsh, I call him,” she says. and the work Chuck Burrows does to preserve Kawai Nui Marsh and the heiau at Ulupo. She talks about the beautification of the city by the Lani-Kailua Outdoor Circle and the work it does at the women’s prison on Kalaniana‘ole Highway. She says, “They have a two-year landscaping program up there so the women can learn a trade. And, once a week, the women come out in their red t-shirts to clean the beach.” But, as a founder and former president of the Kailua Historical Society, most of what she talks about is old Kailua. Joanne has helped preside over the steady accumulation of old photographs and memorabilia that make up the Society’s archives. She’s particularly proud of the Society’s oral history program, especially its first effort, a memoir of longtime resident Jiro Tanabe. Tanabe’s booklet, Old Time Lanikai—When I Knew Where Everybody Lived, is still available in local stores. Flannery keeps up a steady flow of the names of people and the things they’ve done for Kailua. But, listening to her, you begin to get a sense that, if you really want to get something done, the name to know is hers.

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Mapuana de Silva Just inside the doorway of kumu hula Mapuana de Silva’s home hangs a large photograph of Lanikai, circa 1925. Back then, this area was a land of watermelon patches and wide sandy beaches. De Silva, who moved here with her parents more than 50 years ago, remembers a lot of changes. “My mom belonged to a Hawaiian girls golf club,” she says. “There were enough Hawaiian girls who belonged to Mid-Pac so that the members could invite the non-members as their guests. They would end up at the 19th hole, and they would eat and drink and play music. And a lot of times, they would come to our house. Our house was Grand Central Station when we were growing up.” De Silva also remembers the great lu‘au. “We could put up a tent in our yard for 300 people,” she recalls. “Anytime anyone had a baby lu‘au, a wedding, they came to our house.” Everyone would stay up late. “We had this huge hikie‘e,” de Silva says, “this huge Hawaiian bed. I think we put 24 people in that bed once.” But, de Silva mostly remembers the music. Her father, Bruce Howell, managed the Niumalu, the original hotel at the Hilton Hawaiian Village, and was friends with famous entertainers. “At our lu‘au,” she says, “Gabby would be over, Eddie Kamae, Benny Kalama, Sterling Mossman, Uncle Pua. I had an absolutely great childhood.”

Dorothy Babineau Dorothy Babineau is still known to many people as the Bird Lady of Hawai‘i. For more than 20 years, she was famous for rescuing the sick and injured birds of Kailua. Eventually, people from all over the Islands brought her birds. “I must have taken care of thousands of birds. I had cages everywhere you looked,” she says. “When I started, I didn’t know anything about birds. But, boy, did I learn in a hurry.” Babineau has been a fixture in Kailua since the early 1960s. Her husband worked as a manager at the old Skillet restaurant and ended up owning the place. Some of their success undoubtedly came from Dorothy’s chattiness. “I’m naturally nosy,” she says. “I was on the Neighborhood Board for 25 years. My husband was president of the Chamber of Commerce one year, but I think I did most of the talking. For two years, I was the honorary mayor of Kailua. I’d call up Frank Fasi, and tell him, ‘Frank, you’ve got to fix the potholes in this street.’” But mostly, she’s famous for her Kailua healing of birds. She says, “I used to release them at the lighthouse at Makapu‘u Point. I’d throw them up in the air so they’d get the wind in their wings.”

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Adventures in Kailua Want to entertain kids, or call in sick to the office, or make the most of a Saturday? Here are six ways you can explore Windward’s collective backyard. BY D E N N IS H OLLIER • PHOTOGR APHY B Y ALEX VIARNES

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The Ulupo- heiau is the second-largest temple site on O‘ahu.

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See Ulupo- During a Storm The Ulupo- that I remember from my childhood was a peaceful and awesome place. Today, the great heiau behind the YMCA off Kailua Road is still the best place to get a glimpse of the Kailua of the ancient Hawaiians. But, if you want to - grandeur, take my advice: go during a Kona gale. get the full measure of Ulupo’s Ulupo is built on terraces that tumble down a steep hill. The heiau is a broad, imposing platform of boulders, towering over the edge of the marsh. When it was built—perhaps 1,500 years ago—it probably had an unobstructed view over the open waters of Kawai Nui. Now, a young forest grows on the lower reaches of the hill. If you go during a storm, the wind will flail the thickets of hau and whistle in the mango trees overhead. Beside the heiau, a spring debuts from a culvert under Kailua Road, irrigating - Someone has planted coconut palms, kukui, hala and kothe terraces of Ulupo. (sugar cane). From its base, the heiau sprawls like a truncated pyramid. It’s made from countless small black boulders, each carried here by hand. Under darkening skies, you can’t help but think of the thousands of reverent hands that built Ulupo. Farther down the hill, the view of the marsh is expansive. Cat’s paws will darken the open water. The wind will ransack the trees and pelt you with leaves and twigs and small branches. If you come in a Kona storm, Ulupo- will remind you of its power. The site is just off Kailua Road, behind the Windward YMCA, at 1200 Kailua Road.

When it was built—perhaps 1,500 years ago—it probably had an unobstructed view over the open waters of Kawai Nui.

CONTINUED ON PAGE KM 14 www.honolulumagazine.com

kailua APRIL 2007 KM 11

ailua K

from Mauka to Makai

Over 30 Galleries and Shops 40 Restaurants 50 Services & Limitless beauty

What makes Kailua special? Take a look around. From its fine-powdered sand beaches to its lush wetlands and mountains, Kailua breathes life into everything that lives and plays here. Take a drive to the windward side and discover a whole new island experience. Shop at one of the many fine local retail stores, galleries and boutiques. Dine at any one of Kailua’s great restaurants. Enjoy the many recreation activities available, like snorkeling, kayaking or hiking. Or just spend the day strolling through this delightful beach-side town and enjoy the rich collection of public art and art for sale. Kailua holds something special for everyone. Just 20 minutes away from town, over the Pali Highway or over the H3.

TOP 10

Things To Do in Kailua 1 Find over 10 installations of public artwork around Kailua Town. 2 Shop amongst the largest selection of Hawaiian master crafts and fine art at Nohea Island Art.

And Opening Soon Formaggio Grill at Hahani Plaza (next to Fatboy’s) Bob’s Pizzeria (Boston Style Pizza, former owner of Boston's North End Pizza Kailua) at Kailua Beach Center (between Kailua First Stop and Dr. Braun) BeadIt! (moving between Manuhealii and Supercuts on Kailua Road)

5 Discover one-of-a-kind vintage skirts, dresses and more at Mu umu u Heaven. ,

California Pizza Kitchen ASAP Pier 1 Imports Aloha Salads Elvin’s Bakery Kalapawai Café & Deli Nohea Island Art Mu‘umu‘u Heaven So Kailua

4 Get an icy cold Shave Ice at Island Snow.

,

What’s New

3 See your neighbors and friends at the Kailua Town Party or on the 4th of July.

6 Make a friendship bracelet at Global Village. 7 Order a stack of Banana nut pancakes with a side of Portuguese Sausage at Boots and Kimo’s. 8 Take your dog for a ride or out to lunch. 9 Learn glassblowing at Island Glassworks. 10 Go birding at the Hamakua and Kawai Nui Marshes.

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Adventures in Kailua

Lanikai Juice’s founder, Pablo Gonzalez, offering a healthy breakfast.

cards” to 150 of his best customers worth up to $100. They basically loaned him the money for the move. When his neighbor, cookie entrepreneur Wally Amos, saw the new place, he told Gonzalez, “You need some tables.” But Pablo couldn’t afford them. Amos took him to Kailua Hardware and bought the tables for him. A discreet sign painted over the doorway still says, “Thanks, Wally.” So, whether you go for a smoothie, or opt for the fruit bowl, you’ll get a real taste of Kailua at Lanikai Juice. But success does have its price: The line at the counter never falters. 600 Kailua Road. in the Kailua Shopping Center; 262-2383.

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(2) Slurp up Something Tasty Many Kailuans can be found bounding along exercising by 8 a.m.—residents here are famously health-conscious. After working up a sweat, stop by Lanikai Juice, which has not escaped the notice of the young Hollywood crowd, too, making it a great place to people-watch. Lost star Matthew Fox swears by the fruit concoctions, and Evangeline Lilly describes the Kailua Monkey, one of the store’s most popular offerings, as “freaking good.” The Acia Bowls— made from a berry said to be rich in antioxidants, and served with chopped fruit—alone warrant a visit. But the real charm of Lanikai Juice is the way it fits the people of Kailua. For example, founder Pablo Gonzalez buys almost entirely local fresh fruit. “I have the same vendors for 10 years,” he says. “Sometimes, people bring us boxes of fruit: liliko‘i, applebananas ...” He gestures to boxes of fruit for sale. Gonzalez is Argentinian and came to Kailua by way of Barcelona, but there’s nothing foreign about his sense of aloha. Gonzalez talks about the staff at Lanikai Juice as his ‘ohana. In turn, Lanikai Juice has inspired tremendous loyalty. When Gonzalez moved into his new location from a couple of doors down, he knew he couldn’t afford it. To raise money, he sold “value

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Circle Thursday evenings on your calendar. All of them. The Kailua Farmers’ Market is held then, and there’s something there you need. I don’t know what it is—you’ll have to figure that out on your own—but there are simply too many options for you not to find something you can’t live without. For me, it’s the vegetables and the flowers. It’s a couple of big bags of Nalo Greens from the Nalo Farms table. Down at the Vixaysacil stall, I grab a bag of Thai basil, a bundle of lemongrass and some tiny, hot chili peppers for a stir-fry. Then, I cap off my purchase with a small tub of bonbons from the Sweet Stop. (Chocolate takes the edge off a healthy diet.) CONTINUED ON PAGE KM 16

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Mahalo to each and every advertiser in this 3rd Annual Kailua Magazine! Special Mahalo to Kaneohe Ranch and Castle Medical Center for their special sponsorship of this edition, and to Ameron Hawaii, Kaneohe Ranch, Castle Medical Center, Coldwell Banker Pacific Properties, Frank Coluccio Construction Co., Lockwood and Associates ALC and First Hawaiian Bank for their continued support in the Kailua Chamber of Commerce. Photo: Malama Kailua Festival www.honolulumagazine.com

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Painless sin is a part of the pleasure of the Farmers’ Market. My wife may have sworn off carbs, but I wouldn’t dream of a visit without stopping by for a few samples from Ba-Le Bakery. Ditto for the little nibbles of beignets at Country Comfort. And I couldn’t tell you how many times I’ve sampled the chips at Buena Salsa. At the other end of the market, Hawaiian Island Orchids tempts me with their astonishing assortment. Sometimes, I get away with just one or two. Usually, I knuckle under and buy four. Of course, a visit to the Farmers’ Market is rarely as simple as this. I come for fresh fruit and leave with a full, cooked dinner. A copious plate from Da’ Spot—Egyptian roasted chicken or curried lamb. Or, if the line’s not too long, a plate of garlic shrimp from the Hawaiian Style Chili Co. But a long line is sometimes the sign of a specialty. You’ll have to wait your turn for the fried green tomatoes at North Shores. And it takes a really good burger to generate the lines you find at the North Shore Cattle Co. So don’t come to the Farmers’ Market in a hurry. There’s music to listen to. It will take awhile to select just the right honey at Hawaiian Honey Bee Co-op. And you’re bound to run into friends. Thursdays, 5 p.m. to 7:30 p.m., in the Kailua Parking Garage (behind Longs Drugs at 591 Kailua Road). CONTINUED ON PAGE KM 18

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kailua APRIL 2007

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Mary Z’s K A I L U A

Adventures in Kailua Of course, a visit to the Farmers’ Market rarely goes simply. I come for fresh fruit and leave with a full, cooked dinner.

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(4) Paddle to Buzz’s Buzz’s specializes in seafood and steak.

Everytime I go there, I still gaze wistfully up the canal and remember the adventures of my youth.

As a kid, I relished the ritual jaunt to Buzz’s. Not just for the teriyaki steak or the scoops of avocado at the salad bar, but for the ride itself. Because getting there didn’t mean packing all the kids and the inevitable visitor into the car. Instead, all of us went out the back door, clambered aboard the old ski-boat, and slowly scuttled down the canal. Then we’d beach the boat on the sandbar and mosey over to dine in the warm glow of Buzz’s. The canal back then was a fantasyland of weird dogs. A pack of Afghan hounds lounging on a dock. A wire-haired dachshund sprawled in a tree. And a fence-climbing, boat-chasing Labrador retriever that snapped ferociously as we passed. Of course, if you aren’t fortunate enough

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kailua APRIL 2007

TRINITY

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to live on the lake or along the canal, you’ll have to improvise. Perhaps the easiest approach is to simply reverse course. One afternoon, plunk your kayak or canoe into the canal at Kailua Beach, and paddle upstream. Duck under the bridges and the overhanging trees and make your way all the way to

The groundwork for the Mid-Pacific Country Club was laid in 1926 by developer Charles Frazier.

Enchanted Lake. Then, as the sun sets behind the Ko‘olaus, turn around and paddle back. Nowadays, when I go to Buzz’s, I lean more toward the seafood—the ‘ono ono or the amazing calamari steaks. And yet, every time I go there, I still gaze wistfully up the canal and remember the adventures of my youth. And I still shovel scoops of avocado on my salad plate. 413 Kawailoa Road; 261-4661. CONTINUED ON PAGE KM 20

www.honolulumagazine.com

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Adventures in Kailua

Talk Story at Mid-Pacific Country Club

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Membership at Mid-Pac gives you access not only to the beautiful golf course, but to an important piece of Kailua history. The Mid-Pac clubhouse sits high on a bluff, overlooking Kailua Bay and the Mokuluas on one side, and, on the other, gazing over undulating fairways toward the peaks of Olomana and the Ko‘olaus. Today, Mid-Pac gives the impression of being a stately and dignified club. But, if you sit for a while in the Grill with some of the longtime members, they’ll tell you it wasn’t always that way. Old-timers like Jim Ferry, Clifford Kong and Helen Sing remember when the course lay on both sides of Kaelepulu Stream and members had to brave rickety bridges to reach the other side. The club is distinctive in that members physically went out onto the course and built it. And, even after it was built, it was members who went out and did maintenance. Mark Sousa, the longtime head pro, says, “I remember in the ’60s, we’d have a ‘Weed-athon’. You’d go out and weed the course.” Sing, who became one of the club’s first “lady members” more than 50 years ago, says, “I remember when the front nine was

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so bad, there were these big ruts in them and people would lose their balls in them, and when it rained toads would come out of them.” 266 Ka‘elepulu Drive, 262-8161.

crimes of youth, the muddy trail to Maunawili Falls is a good place to start. The trail is probably longer than you remember (aren’t they

(6) Call in Sick and Visit a Waterfall

The hike to Maunawili Falls is slippery and muddy, but hey, you can always rinse off in the swimming hole.

When I was a kid living in Kailua and going to school in Honolulu, hooky meant skipping out at third period to head over to Makapu‘u Beach. Truancy, on the other hand, was an all-day affair, and meant leaving straight from the house for the swimming hole at Maunawili Falls. If you feel like reliving the sweet

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all?), so wear good hiking shoes and bring water. And you’ll get wet, either from rain, or as the trail crosses and re-crosses the stream.

Adventures in Kailua

Signs along the way will indicate the presence of ruins. Pay them no mind. It’s best to climb steadily to the falls, pausing only to catch your breath or to take in the occasional view of the Ko‘olau mountains. At the top, someone has improved the trail, putting in steps for the steep descent to the falls. They don’t help, but the climb is definitely worth it. Your reward is one of O‘ahu’s finest small waterfalls. Maunawili Falls tumbles 20 feet down the back of a keyhole grotto into a dark, inviting pool. Ferns and baby’s breath line the vertical walls of the cavern. Above, tree-ferns overhang the entrance to the pool. The water under the falls is deep and cold. But, after the long hike, it couldn’t be more inviting. If you come on a weekday or late in the afternoon, you may have this Shangri La to yourself. So sit for a while on one of the big, slick boulders, and watch the white water tumble into the deep green pool. Directions: Turn right onto ‘Auloa Road after Kamehameha Highway., at the fork stay to the left on Maunawili Road. Follow the signs to Maunawili Falls.

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kailua APRIL 2007 KM 21

SPECIA L PR OMOTION A L SECTION

B Y JAMES DANNENBERG

Pillbox High A Kailua-based hiker shares a favorite local trail to tranquility.

Part of the 360-degree view that rewards those on the Ka‘iwa Ridge Trail.

PHOTO: JAMES DANNENBERG

Sometimes

you just need to get above it all.

S WA N T TO T RY T H E K A ‘ I WA R I D G E T R A I L?

The trailhead is tucked behind the Bluestone condominium fence, just off Ka‘elepulu Drive.

KM 22

kailua APRIL 2007

Usually it’s a metaphysical imperative, but if you live in the Kailua-Lanikai area you can rise to the heights anytime you want. The entrance to the Ka‘iwa Ridge Trail, which scales the Keolu Hills, begins as a crouch through a tunnel of tree branches and quickly opens to a 100-yard climb that will suck the wind from most lungs. Halfway up you may wonder what it was you originally had in mind, but just when you think you can’t go further, the trail emerges onto an open ridge. There’s a spectacular, 200-degree-plus view of Lanikai, the Mokulua islands, the Ko‘olaus, Enchanted Lake, Kailua and Kailua Bay. I’ve known folks to quit here, satisfied that the law of diminishing returns rendered further effort meaningless. They were wrong.

Rest your solar plexus; hold onto your hat if it’s windy; and look up the trail to see the World War II-era pillboxes that mark the high points less than a half-mile away. If you think the view’s great here, you’ll be blown away by what you can see up top. And don’t worry: The tough part’s over. Just last week I saw a middle-aged guy leading his blind mom to the summit. The trail itself is dry, rocky and unmaintained, but nonetheless easy to follow. Most hikers are content to ascend only as far as the pillboxes easily visible from below. You might think you’ve climbed onto a desert plateau given the low, sparse vegetation, which includes kiawe, koa haole and cactus stands. Aside from a few birds, the only fauna I’ve ever seen there are the occasional centipede and a solitary mongoose. And it’s lonely, too. Sure, on weekends you might run into a few hikers, but most of the time you’ll have it pretty much to yourself, especially if you’re heading beyond the pillboxes. My companion, Kea the Wonder Dog, and I prefer to do this hike at sunrise or midafternoon to take advantage of the light. Not that Kea cares, but I like to take an occasional photo. Once up at the second pillbox you’ll see why it’s worth the effort. Not far from the 603-foot summit, the second pillbox is a perch with a nearly unmatchable 360-degree view of the Windward Side, from Makapu‘u Lighthouse and Rabbit Island north past the Mokapu Peninsula to Chinaman’s Hat. From here the ocean reveals the coral reef and reflects aquamarine, turquoise, gold and silver, depending on the sun. A turn of the head exposes the browns and velvet greens of the Ko‘olaus. It’s a stunning view. Even Kea seems smitten. The trail continues for another mile or so, with branches leading back to Lanikai, Enchanted Lake or even Bellows, and it’s worth taking. But if all you need is to get above it all, you’ve come far enough. www.honolulumagazine.com

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