Slavonia - Glow On The Horizon

Glow on the horizon

Slavonia

Sun

Horizon 8000

Water

Continuation of life

Glow on the horizon

River Wetlands

Plain

Life of animals Horse

Mountains

Mountains Heads

Woman

96 o C Ivana and Dora

Mars

Pil Land and water

Venus

Noble land

Spring

Ducat and embroidery

Summer

Vallis aurea

Autumn

Princes of Ilok

The straight vertical of the horizon, the coming together of earth and the sky, this endless plain captivates all who come to eastern Croatia. The people who, having crossed mountains and having negotiated river valleys, arrived in this land thousands of years ago,

Winter

decided to stay. They adopted the fertile black earth, which proOrient Express

vided for him bountifully in return. And so he began to develop culture concurrently with the emergence of the first great civilizations of mankind-in the Indian sub-continent, in Mesopotamia, and in the Nile Delta. The largest rivers flowing through this area,

Man

Oak Orion

the Danube, with its tributaries the Sava and Drava, were man’s natural boundaries. Elevated ground on the hills and mountains provided the weaker with protection from attack.

Sunrise

Horizon

Erdut-Ilok Archeological Park [email protected]

Sunrise over Pannonia. The plain rises imperceptibly from the

this miracle through his cultural superstructure, right up to the

darkness, cloaked by a veil of haze hovering above the river val-

present-day Pannonian-come-Central European landscape, with

leys. The heavens slowly fill with blue. The first flickering rays of

its range of settlements nestling among the lush colours of fertile

the sun blend into the Great Flash and then a curtain of gold cov-

fields and picture-book forests, to the accompaniment of the ode

ers the eastern part of the horizon. The sign for the beginning of

to joy sung by the most numerous and most diverse array of birds

the festivity of life... and so for some 370 million years, when the

in Europe. It is a spatial code that sets eastern Croatia apart as a

oldest land of this part of the continent rose from the primordial

special spatial entity within Croatia and the wider Europe.

sea. For over 8000 years man has devoted himself to enhancing

Vinkovci

8000

[email protected] [email protected]

The most favourable conditions for man to mark his permanent routes in eastern Croatia came together in the area of Vinkovci, where diverse natural entities meet: the loess grasslands of the Vukovar-Đakovo area and the valley of the Bosut River; at the intersection of roads leading from the valleys of the Sava, Drava and Danube. The permanent settlement here is the oldest, and was founded by the pra-landtillers of the Starčevo culture dating from 6000 BC. And they imbued it with the soul of an urban centre. Almost 8000 years of cultural development is reflected in the rich cultural heritage found at different localities along the left bank of the Bosut River. It is symbolized by a tell, a mound in the centre of the settlement, a monument to the birth and evolution of one of the oldest settlements in Europe. Down the history of Vinkovci, urban rises and declines replaced one another-from the Neolithic Starčevo culture, through the Copper Age of the Vučedol culture, from the Roman municipium to the later date colony, from the planned development of a town with a central European physiognomy from the beginning of the 18th century, down to the present day. The spirit of this long and rich past is felt at every step; it is built into the self-awareness of the inhabitants of Vinkovci, permeating the town on the Bosut with a quite special charm.

Civilization

The river

Recreational and competitive rowing in Osijek (Iktus Rowing Club)

There are few areas the landscape and life of which have been

characteristics of towns on the river banks. Podunavlje, Posavina

so closely defined by rivers as is the case in eastern Croatia. End-

and Podravina are not only areas named after the rivers, but also

lessly flowing to these parts through the wide valleys of the Sava,

the areas in which rivers define the character and the way of life-

Drava and Danube-rivers that have created wide alluvial plains,

ranging from enjoyment in various water sports, to famous fish

with magnificent forests-oases of biological diversity-these are

restaurants, or just abandoning oneself to rest and recreation in

the creative energies of the lands through which they course,

the greenery by the river. Their very omnipresence-in landscapes,

blending with the local cultures, enhancing and enriching this

in the collective consciousness of the people, in the culture-makes

area. From the late Neolithic Sopot-culture of fishermen who

the rivers of eastern Croatia its kind of spatial code, easily identi-

lived in pile-dwellings, through the Vučedol culture of the Cop-

fiable within the regional mosaic of Croatia. They were, are and

per Age and down to our own times. Standing witness to these

ever will be a drawing power for the population; they define the

influences of the wider region are the urbanistic and architectural

rhythm of life and steer it towards the future.

Ecological Puzzle

Wetlands

The KopaËki rit Nature Park. A managed nature reserve since 1967; Special zoological reserve since 1976; www.kopacki-rit.com

Modern man is increasingly becoming aware of the immense sig-

northern Europe. At the same time, in the waters of one of the larg-

nificance that wetlands represent, both as a source of life and with

est spawning grounds in Europe, over fifty species of fish begin the

regard to the preservation of biological diversity. Alternation of

renewal of the cycle of life, and it is from here that the predatory

merely wet and flood periods, where the water world rhythmically

pike, the gold-yellow carp, the moustached catfish, reaching up to

drives back the creatures of the land, is but a preparation for the

100 kg in weight, roach, bream, pike-perch, orf-journey towards the

veritable explosion of life once the waters recede. The largest and

Drava and the Danube, and much further. And there are almost

best-known locations, those richest in various species are the Crnac-

300 species of bird here. Particularly precious are the endangered

polje, Jelas-polje and Biđ-polje ranges within the alluvial plain of the

European species of black stork, Saker falcon and white tailed eagle.

Sava River, and Kopački rit at the confluence of the Drava and the

Nesting in exceptionally numerous colonies are different types of

Danube. Come springtime, and the melting of snow in the Alps,

heron, gulls, cormorants, as well as species endangered in Europe,

Kopački rit is transformed into a vast water surface interspaced with

such as Ferruginous duck and various types of wild geese which

forests. In the warm part of the year this is a habitat for numer-

winter here in their tens of thousands. Another rare bird that finds

ous migratory birds on their seasonal journey between Africa and

its winter haven here is the Greater spotted eagle.

Brehm

Life of animals

List of important ornithological areas (IBA) 1986; List of wetland habitats of international significance (Ramsar site) 1993.

Among the scientists who worked in this area were Professor Mojsisovics of Graz, Mr Zelborn (Custodian of the Viennese Imperial Museum), Mr Herman, ichthyologist, and Alfred Edmund Brehm-author of the major work “The Life of Animals”. The abundance of game made this the favourite hunting ground for the nobility — from Eugene of Savoy to the Archduke Friedrich of the House of Habsburg who, in 1910, played host here to the German Emperor Wilhelm II. The Tikveš forest hunting complex, which is home to the largest community of deer in Europe, has throughout the 20th century been an exclusive hunting paradise for the chosen-local and world statesmen and other prominent personalities. Kings and emperors came to hunt here-from Franz Josef to Shah Reza Pahlavi. But forests of the plains are not replete only in big game. They are an authentic wilderness, and as such ensure survival to all forms of

life-from the harvest mouse, meadow mouse, adder, stoat, to the collared flycatcher and black stork. In the eastern part are animals which form a part of the steppe fauna: some rare species of butterflies, hamster, mouse, short-legged lizard, scincidae / Ablepharus kitabelli, i.e. bibron and bory, and the long snake. The Uviraljka abyss is the largest of several winter shelters for colonies of bats on mount Papuk. Living along the river banks is a rare and protected species of otter, and the Drava, Lonja, Orljava, Vuka, Karašica and Danube provide nesting grounds for wagtails, Little Grebe, Grey heron, Little Egret, wild duck, moorhen, bald coot and lapwing, and here their prey is river charr, nose-carp, chub, burbot, barbel, rudd, bleak and bitterling. The favourite with anglers in rivers, backwaters, ponds and fish farms are carp, pike-perch, pike, catfish and perch-bass-from which the best fish-paprikash, or stew, is prepared.

Noble animal

Horse

White horses, competition of horse breeders, Babina Greda (since 1980) www.tz-djakovo.hr

The four-in-hand of Đakovo of indigenous Lipizzaners danced elegantly through Europe from Aachen, Lucerne, Budapest and Vienna to Rome, Verona and Windsor. Although the beginnings of the Đakovo stud-farm are officially stated as 1506, records dating from 1374 tell us that they were undoubtedly preceded by many years of breeding. In 1805, the Imperial stud-farm was transferred in the face of Napoleon’s conquering armies from Lipice to Đakovo. The blood lines of high-bred horses like Contessa, Sphinx, Tapia, Romana, Austria, Sorti and Favory Perla-Calma further enhanced the famous European lines of Lipizzaners. The stud-farm in Lipik, or the Eltz stud-farm in Vukovar, or the JankoviÊ family tradition, are all well known: Julije’s racing horses which won many European trophies, Elmer’s large stud-farm in Terezovac, and the Lipizzaner of the Tulipan line in Aladar’s stud-farm in Cabuna. The horse arrived in these parts some five millennia ago. To a Slavonian a horse was precious-it pulled carriages and carts, ran races, in times of war it served together with its master. The hussars were unimaginable without their horses, as were Baron Trenk’s Troopers. They were Croats who, resplendent in their red capes and caps, are famous for having introduced what is today an indispensable detail of male fashion, with their neck scarves tied in a very special way, and which became known as “cravates”.

Islands in the sea

Mountains

Papuk Nature Park www.pp-papuk.hr

The mountainous landscape of Slavonia extends from Papuk and Krndija in the north, down Psunj, Babja gora and Dilj gora, with the Požega valley in the south. These massive mountains are a unique monument to the geological development of this part of Europe. In the Neogene period, a later part of the geological past, they were islands, and Sovsko jezero (Lake Sovsko) on Dilj-gora is an elevated remnant rising from what was once was the Tertiar Sea of Paratetis, later known as the Pannonian Sea. All around one can find fossilized remains of the living organisms from its depths-forms of shellfish and fish, to shar and whale. Geologically most interesting is Papuk, composed of eruptive rock from Palaeozoic period, some 370 million years old. Its peak layer abounds in karstic phenomena. A grassy plain girdled by primeval forests of beech enhances the romantic atmosphere of the Jankovac mountain lodge, just as in the days of the guests of Count JankoviÊ in his hunting lodge. With the cooling of lava towards the end of the Mesozoic period, some 75 million years ago, Rupnica-the most outstanding geological phenomenon of Papuk-was created. Alongside several other similar examples elsewhere in the world, it stands apart with it secretion albite rhyolite, eruptive rock which crystallizes in the form of quadrilateral prisms. As the small area of Papuk encompasses a significant segment of Earth’s geological history, a stroll down the pathways of the Nature Park is literally also to travel through times spanning millions of years.

Rudina

Heads

The mountains of Slavonia shelter the greatest treasury of

Church of St. Martin, near Našice (top left); Erdut (bottom left); Ružica (bottom right) www.pozega-tz.hr

of Krndija. Ruins of one of the largest medieval fortified burgs

medieval building heritage. Benedictine monks built their

in Croatia, Ružica, also lie on the slopes of Krndija above Ora-

monastery of St. Michael the Archangel on the eastern slopes

hovica. From the elevated part of a plain in front of one of

of Psunj back in the 12th century, in Rudina. It is from this

the best preserved medieval churches in Novi Mikanovci, a

monastery that the famous Romanesque stone heads originate.

wide view opens up towards the Posavina Plain. It is from here

In 1971 they were exhibited in Paris and their artistic value at-

that the ancient breed of Croatian sheep dog originates. This

tracts a high degree of attention from the European culturally

black, curly haired dog is a tireless worker and a fearless guard-

minded public. Also originating from the Middle Ages are St.

ian of sheep, pigs and cattle. The area abounds in numerous

Peter’s church, the St. Dimitrius stone-built church-come-for-

other medieval churches and secular buildings, some of which

tress in Brodski Drenovac, the square citadel in Cernik near

are still in use, while others are located in the wilderness of

Nova Gradiška, and the Cistercian monastery of the Blessed

mountain forests and can be reached only with the assistance

Virgin in Kutjevo, founded in 1232 in the southern foothills

of experienced local guides.

Water Park

96°C

Orlov otok (Eagle’s island) on the Danube (right); The Sava (top and bottom) www.tzobizovac.hr

It is difficult to imagine the dynamic tectonic processes that have shaped the mellow landscapes of Slavonia beneath the seemingly tranquil harmony of the Pannonian Plain and the mountain massifs. This came as the result of rising and falling of the sections of the ancient Pannonian base along the longitudinal and transversal fault lines. Their elevations gave birth to the mountains of Psunj, Papuk and the cores of other smaller mounts, and through the further sinking of ground there came about the depressions of Posavina, Podravina and Podunavlje. These vertical movements are borne witness to by numerous springs of medicinal thermal and mineral water: hyperthermal springs in Lipik (58.2oC), acrothermal (46oC) in the Daruvar spa. Their medicinal properties

were recognized as early as in the times of Antiquity. In Velika, in the southern foothills of Papuk, is a thermal spring (28oC) and the Toplice spa, and not far from there is another spring, Duboka (15 — 18oC). A similar thermal spring is located at the foot of the eastern slope of Krndija, in Đakovačka Breznica. The largest and the best known bathing and thermal health resort is Bizovačke toplice. In this the youngest part of the Podravina depression, is hyperthermal water with an incredible temperature of 96oC. It is saline (25%) and contains numerous minerals. Today, this is the best equipped and most modern spa in the whole of Croatia-its multifunctional swimming complex and state of the art remedial facilities ensure a unique experience.

Castles / Manor Houses

Ivana and Dora

Dora Pejačević, Music Festivals, Našice (right) Bilje (far right), Donji Miholjac (bottom) www.tz-donjimiholjac.hr

Eltz family, grew from a modest curia. The manor house with the famous wine cellars in Kutjevo is part of what was once was a Jesuit estate, and the spacious castle in Donji Miholjac was built after its smaller predecessor proved insufficient for Emperor Franz Joseph I and all his entourage. The families of Khuen Belassy, Adamović, Janković, Mailath, Mihailović and Esterházy competed in splendour with Eugene of Savoy. The Counts Pejačević of Virovitica have bequeathed us the largest number of edifices of splendid architectural heritage. In one of the most beautiful, in Našice, there worked the second grand dame of the Croatian artistic Pantheon: Dora Pejačević. Being a part of the European artistic elite of her time, she composed a wealth of glittering musical miniatures.

Ivana Brlić Mažuranić, also known as the Croatian Andersen and whose fairy tale world rivals that created by J.R.R. Tolkien, once lived in the house which stood before the gate to the Brod fortress. This is where Ivana’s secret and magical worlds were born. But she also describes a soot-covered castle built of oak tree trunks built within one of the fortifications that existed since times immemorial down to the Middle Ages, and beyond. Where once stood fortifications now rise castles and manor houses, some even merging into them-like the Baroque Prandau-Normann Manor House, with a large landscaped park, in Valpovo. These grand edifices testify to participation in the life of European nobility by the families that built them. The manor house in Vukovar, built by the powerful

Baroque

Pil

Pil, Osijek (left); Cloister of the Franciscan Monastery Brod (right). Požega (bottom)

Concurrently with its dominance throughout Europe, the style of the

square of Požega. Each building on this square is a precious monu-

Baroque was equally represented here. The most significant Baroque

ment, together with the City Hall and the home of one Mr Thaller,

fortifications are those of Slavonski Brod and Osijek. “Tvrđa” in Osi-

the local apothecary. Another town with a very picturesque Baroque

jek is a harmonious blend of military, civil, administrative and sacraal

centre, and buildings built by tradesmen and merchants in an irregu-

architecture. The central square is dominated by the buildings of the

lar pattern of streets, is Vukovar. Vinkovci and Nova Gradiška also

General Headquarters, dating from 1726, with the most sumptuous

have typical Baroque squares, individual Baroque-style monasteries,

Baroque stone portal in Croatia, the main Guard posts comprising

churches and buildings filling various functions can be seen in many

a prominent guard tower and a cupola, and the magistrates build-

smaller places. Standing apart as a very special attraction are the

ing. This Baroque beauty is further enhanced with two complexes

Franciscan monastery in Slavonski Brod, containing the most monu-

of monasteries, while the centre of the spacious rectangular square

mental cloister in northern Croatia; the Canon’s house in Đakovo;

is taken up by the Pil, the largest Baroque monument in Croatia. A

the Franciscan monastery and church complex of St. Roc, its interior

similar monument is that of the Holy Trinity that stands in the main

filled with light and with a valuable inventory.

The Brod Fortress

Land and water

Tvra in Osijek (bottom); Fortress in Brod; www.tzgsb.hr

When, in 1699, following the Karlovac Peace Treaty, the Habsburg Monarchy assumed control of the border on the River Sava, a part of the population of the larges urban centres took flight. The idea devised by the strategists from Vienna, whereby villages should become fortified settlements with two entrances easily defended was an effective one. Villages were fortified and protected by ditches, moats and palisades, and at night the gates were closed. Forests were cleared, rural life developed. And what changed the way of life of a village, while at the same time providing defence of borders, was the string of imperial fortifications protecting the entire area, which were in turn linked to the main imperial roads and navigable rivers. Throughout the existence of that system of fortifications no army attempted to drive its way through those passages. Towns may have become smaller, but the fortifications were insurmountable. On the Drava river these stood in Virovitica, Valpovo and Osijek (“Tvrđa”); on the River Sava there was Gradiška and the imposing star-shaped fortress of Brod, the garrison of the Brod fortress numbered 5000 soldiers, with the town of Brod having a population of a mere 3500. This system of fortification ensured an uninterrupted two-and-a-half centuries of peace. While the population from other parts of Croatia were emigrating to the New World, Slavonia was becoming the promised land of prosperity.

Prosperity

The noble land

Autumns of Vinkovci, folklore festival, gathering of indigenous folk culture (since 1965); www.vk-jeseni.com

A comprehensive experience of eastern Croatia is inconceivable with-

tion of the region, which has no match in Croatia with regard to the

out getting to know a Slavonian village. It is an adornment of the cul-

abundance and diversity of gastronomic specialties. On the loaded

tural landscape and a treasure trove of heritage instilled into the col-

Slavonian groaning board the concept of home cuisine acquires a new

lective consciousness and identity of the local population. This applies

dimension. From the irresistible aroma of bread fresh from the bak-

equally to the compact villages built to a plan, with an agricultural

er’s oven, through cottage cheese and spring onions, chicken or mush-

landscape of open fields across the loess plateaux and terraced plains

room soups, roasts, to quality meat products and processed meats

of eastern Croatia, and to the villages with compact homesteads and

following the traditional pig butchering season-such as un-pressed

division of land following the fishbone pattern found in Posavina and

crackling, dried meaty bacon, ham or delicious Slavonian sausages

Podravina. Accumulated within them are centuries of experience and

spiced with red paprika-ground or crushed, and of course the king of

knowledge of cultures linked to one another by living together in this

them all: kulen. All complemented by an abundance of home-grown

rich and generous Pannonian land. And within it, authentic Slavonian

vegetables. And then there are desserts-from richly stuffed rolls made

cultural heritage. This is reflected in the sumptuous culinary tradi-

with yeast dough, to delicate, lard-based flaky pastry cakes.

Art nouveau

Ducat and embroidery

Embroideries of Đakovo, folklore festival (since 1967) www.djakovo.com

In the mid-19th century the industrial revolution arrived in these

area around the town of Županja it was reflected in the fashion of

parts. The Osijek match factory was founded in 1856, followed by

dress and the perception of beautiful, festive and sumptuous attire

factories producing beers, malt, ice, furniture, soap and sugar. From

for special occasions. On festive occasions the women wore up to

1884 one was able to ride a tram through the streets of Osijek, the

three bodices and from one to as many as seven embroidered un-

first such south of Vienna and Budapest. The imagination of Seces-

derskirts. The wealth of Slavonia is proudly demonstrated in those

sion in this city measured that of large metropoles. In 1898 a monu-

traditional festive costumes, made from home-woven cloth and

ment was built to commemorate the 78th Infantry Regiment, the

embroidered with gold thread. Hair was meticulously styled in a

first modern sculpture in Croatia by the sculptor Robert Frangeš

traditional manner and was kept in place by the application of sugar

MihanoviÊ. That same year Secession-style advertisements were

water. Entire fortunes in gold ducats were carefully strung together

being published in the local papers; residential and public buildings

for all to see and admire. It is remarkable that in such a small area,

in the same style were built. But the style of Secession made its im-

several distinctly original styles of such festive clothing developed,

print in quite unexpected places-in the rural communities. In the

specifically in Duboševica, Bapska, Sopje, Đakovo, Bizovac...

Bread and wine

Vallis aurea

Olympiada of old sports, Broanci (since 1972) The boom in winegrowing in Pannonia is linked to the Roman Emperor Probus (3rd century)

In the first centuries AD the area between the Rivers Sava, Drava

the Goth-barbaric neighbours on the borders of the Empire defined

and Danube became a part of the Roman Empire. This was the

by the Danube. They ruled Pannonia from the 5th century, and the

time of the first recorded economic boom, testified to by the roads:

saga of their decisive battle against the Huns travelled from one

one led through Podravina towards the fortification of Mursa (Osi-

people to another as one of the oldest Germanic epic poems. In Ro-

jek) and the eastern provinces; the other linked the Aquae Balis-

man times the area developed as a country where wheat and grapes

sae spa (Daruvar) and the fertile and wine growing area of Incera

were grown. Vineyards yielded wines of such quality that they

(Požega), Certis (Đakovo) and Cibala (Vinkovci)-where two Ro-

were given appellations such as Mons aureus or Vallis aurea. Today,

man emperors were born: the courageous and popular Valentian

these areas are the Baranja and Požega-Pleternica wine-growing

I, and his brother Valens. In the year 351 one of the crucial battles

hills which, together with the Kutjevo vineyards and cellars, rank

of the late Roman Empire took place near Mursa, where Emperor

among the oldest European wine cellars. In other wine-growing

Constantine defeated the usurper Magnentius. In this conflict the

areas-around Đakovo, Slavonski Brod, Nova Gradiška, Pakrac,

Emperor was supported by the Bishop of Mursa, a fervent support-

Feričanci, Orahovica-Slatina, Virovitica, Erdut and Vukovar-Ilok-

er of the Arian version of early Christianity, which was accepted by

the grape vine has been cultivated for more than a thousand years.

Podunavlje / The Danube Basin

Princes of Ilok

Grape picking in Ilok (since 1962) [email protected]

For centuries Ilok has been the production centre of the wine of Srijem which, from as early as the Renaissance, was regarded by the writers of the time as the “most highly praised wine in the whole of the north”. This rich medieval little town enjoyed the privilege of self rule-which is testified to by the 1525 Statute. The Franciscan monastery in Ilok is the final resting place of the famous Italian Franciscan, Ivan Kapistran, interred there in 1456. The fortification was built towards the end of the 13th century by the Csak family, and some of its members had already begun to merge their title with the suffix “Von Ilok”. Another prestigious family was the Konths, its most prominent member being Nikola of Ilok, the Duke of Erdély, one of the most powerful Hungarian nobles of his time. Viceroy of Slavonia, Croatia and Mačva, he

minted his own coins and, when he died in 1477, he held the title of King of Bosnia. The vast family possessions were inherited by his son Lovro, Herzeg of Bosnia and Viceroy of Mačva who, as one of the mightiest feudal lords of the times, posed a threat to the king himself. Vineyards growing on the loess plateaux, which enjoy good drainage, and slopes on low elevations above the right bank of the Danube, extend from the Renaissance fortification at Erdut to the famous wine cellars of Ilok. Wines from that cellar were acclaimed at world exhibitions in Paris, Trieste, Vienna and Budapest back in the 19th century. Ilok’s Upper Town is one of the most beautiful points from where one can, while enjoying a glass of the famous Traminac of Ilok, watch the mighty Danube calmly flow by.

New Age

Orient Express

Kulen competition in Požega, competition of producers (since 1982) European Avenue in Osijek (bottom).

The modern life introduced through the rise in industry did not clash

Brod, Vukovar and Vinkovci, both in architecture and in prevailing

with rural traditions and the best they have to offer-food. The people of

taste. The internationally renowned spa of Lipice attracted people

Slavonia complemented their traditional delicacies with Kaiser sweets

from all walks of life, including the famed Fjodor Šaljapin, the Rus-

and Stark chocolates, sweets from the Požega factory, Krenkhely li-

sian operatic basso profundo. It was here that big landowners, mayors,

queurs or the Nektar liqueurs from Nova Gradiška, as well as with

political dignitaries, artists, mayors, political dignitaries, generals, art-

champagne from Slatina. The glasses from which they drank were

ists, scientists and rich folk from Europe and America relaxed. Slavonia

produced in the small towns of Zvečevo, Seona, near Našice or Her-

also became the intersection of continental transport routes, which

zog in Osijek. The matured “kulen” produced by the Brothers Nedela

brought in a quite new world-modern, dynamic and bubbling with

was washed down with beer made in Osijek or Daruvar, or with the

enthusiasm. The Orient Express linked Western Europe with Istanbul

wine and mineral water of Lipik-which has been on sale since 1875.

and the Middle East, and it was the opulent interiors of the train which,

With some 80 factories around the year 1925, Osijek was the hub

stuck in snow in front of Vinkovci, provided the setting for the end of

of industry, a town with the highest concentration of industry in the

a thriller by Agatha Christie.

State of the time. The new style of the times left a deep imprint in

J. J. Strossmayer

Oak

Church of St. Peter and St. Paul in Topolje, Baranja Strossmayer Cathedral (bottom)

Josip Juraj Strossmayer, Bishop of the Đakovo-Srijem Diocese, represents one of Croatia’s most illustrious historical episodes. An excellent organizer, bilingual almost from birth, he became aware of the value of knowledge at an early age. Through his skilled management the economic performance of the diocese so improved that he was able to place the profits in the service of the people. He was the founder of the key institutions of science, education and culture, patron of arts and champion of the ecumenical philosophy which the Church accepted only during the Papacy of John Paul II. He even provided financial assistance to the Prince-Bishop of Montenegro, the Serbian Principality, Bulgarian culture and Bosnian Beys. The Strossmayer cathedral in Đakovo is, according to Pope John XXIII, the most beautiful church between Venice and Istanbul. Slavonia has another symbol that links heaven and earth, this one being a work of nature. The common oak, the most noble of all oaks, Quercus robur, is widespread in the flood plains of the Rivers Sava and Drava. Nobody has described it so well as did the writer Josip Kozarac, who wrote about the oak: “This emperor among oaks”, whose bole can reach a height of 50 metres. The oak is indispensable-whether it be as a traditional building material, or as the finest material for barrels. Common oak is an integral part of the spatial code of Slavonia, indelibly imprinted into the collective consciousness of its population. The great Bishop holds the same position, but in the spiritual sphere: he constantly strove towards the heights above the lowland horizon, resilient to all misfortunes and to the time.

Vučedol

Orion

Jasprena, Duboševica (Baranja) [email protected]

The fateful bond between the population of the plains and land

the changing phases of the Moon and created one of the oldest

the provider has predestined that life in these parts ever pulsates in

calendars. They adapted their lives to it, and integrated it with

harmony with the laws of nature. This is why man, “set between

a great deal of imagination, as into their daily lives, so into their

the earth and the stars”, has been reading cosmic signs since time

mythology. This ritual of life was translated into graphic symbols,

immemorial. First to understand them were the ancient people of

a kind of pictorial script found on the cult/ritual ceramic pots of

Vučedol, one of the most specific cultures which existed between

exceptional beauty. On their cultural monuments they left their

3000 and 2400 BC in the wider area of the basin of the Dan-

message for all time. As though nothing essential has changed in

ube. On clear winter nights they directed their gazes and their

the endless passage of time. Today, as in the time of the Vučedol

thoughts towards the constellation of Orion at the heaven’s equa-

culture, the local population is rooted into the Pannonian soil,

tor, which they honoured as a deity. They perceived a supernatu-

like the oaks. Today, they still live their lives in accordance with

ral, divine hand in the shining start at the corners of its rectangle.

the calendar of seasons, striving towards the future, their gazes

When Orion seemed to vanish come springtime, they followed

directed towards Orion.

Church Monastery Forest park Spas Airport Motorway County centre

Fortress Vineyards Shrine Special forest vegetation reserve Swimming pool Recreation centre Port SkelaFerry Arterial road Town

Old burgh Village tourism Archaeological locality Natural monument Geological natural monument Border crossing point Other roads Municipal centre

Horses Museum Gallery Protected landscape County borders

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County of Osijek-Baranja

The River Drava

www.tzosbarzup.hr [email protected]

The County of Osijek-Baranja occupies the north-eastern part of

link with the urban structures and architecture of Central Eu-

Croatia, i.e. the lower Croatian Podravina with parts of the histori-

rope (protected parks in Donji Miholjac, Valpovo, Našice, Đakovo,

cal regions of Slavonia and Baranja. It is an open plain dominated by

Muštar, Osijek, Tenja, Dalj, Bilje and »epin). Their history can be

the alluvial lowlands of the Rivers Drava and Danube. Exceptions

learned in the local museums: Museum of the Valpovo Area, of

are the low elevations of “Bansko brdo” in Baranja and “Daljska

BelišÊe, of the Đakovo Area, the Zoological Museum of Baranja

planina”, with the loess Erdutsko brdo south of the confluence of

(Kopačevo). A variety of manifestations taking place also contrib-

the Drava and Danube. Such relief and hydrological characteristics

ute to their attraction: Ethno-Eco Festival (Bilje, VI); The Ribald

are reflected in the natural heritage of the county, the central posi-

Songs and Verses of Baranja (Draž, VI); Summer in Valpovo (VI);

tion of which belongs to the nature park known as Kopački rit,

Encounters in Miholjac (VII); Harvest Festivities of Petrijevci

which is beautifully complemented by the landscape of Erdut. The

(VII); The Đakovo Embroideries (VII); Pilgrimage for the Feast

point of gravitation for settlements in Baranja is Osijek-as for Beli

of the Assumption (Aljmaš, VIII); Art Colony (Ernestinovo, VIII);

Manastir, its centre, so for BelišÊe. There are also Našice, Valpovo,

Olympiad of Old Sports (Brođanci, VIII); Autumn in Baranja (Beli

Donji Miholjac, Đakovo, and other settlements which, through

Manastir, IX); Sling Competition (Radikovci, IX); Days of Slavo-

their public buildings and horticultural monuments, represent a

nian Forest (Našice, IX); Get-togethers in Ladimirevci (XI-XII).

City of Osijek

The Bridge As well as being the administrative seat of the County of Osijek-

[email protected] www.tzosijek.hr

ious buildings; the Upper Town shaped in the 19th century, and

Baranja, Osijek is the largest town and plays the leading role in

finally, the park architecture-which sets Osijek apart as the best

the towns of eastern Croatia. The crucial factor for its develop-

horticulturally landscaped town in Croatia. Today, this town is

ment has always been its “bridging” role, its position at the most

also the cultural centre of this part of the country, with its own

favourable crossing point of the River Drava. It is symbolized

university and scientific institutions. All those aspect create the

by the famous 16th-century, 8 km-long Suleyman’s bridge, built

special charm of this Pannonian metropolis of Croatia. Among a

across the wetlands of Baranja to Darda. The transport routes

number of museums and collections, the Museum of Slavonia and

that intersect here ensured that Osijek developed as the centre

the Gallery of Visual Arts are worthy of a visit. Cultural events

of the wider region. This worked in favour of early industrializa-

take place in Osijek: International competition of young pianists

tion and urbanization, and by the end of the 19th century it had

(I.), SLUK, Festival of puppet theatres (V, Festival of tamburitza

become one of the largest and most developed towns in Croatia.

music (V), Osijek’s Summer of Culture (VII), Summer Nights

This is reflected in the rich architectural heritage: the urban en-

in Osijek (VI-VIII), Krleža’s Days (XI), “Fishiade”, or as some

tity known as Tvrđa, with a range of monumental and prestig-

would say, a festival of fish fare, Biennale of Slavonians (XII).

County of Brod-Posavina

The River Sava This county includes the elongated belt along the River Sava in the

[email protected] www.tzgsb.hr, www.tzgng.hr

transport in this part of Slavonia. The key position, and role, among

southern part of Slavonia. This section of Slavonian Posavina, between

the settlements of Brod-Posavina County as it is today, belongs to Sla-

the mountains of Psunj, Babja gora and Dilj-gora in the north and the

vonsi Brod, its regional centre. Its position close to the border, and

Sava in the south, central Croatia to the west, and east Croatian plain

therefore its strategic significance in the past, is reflected the architec-

in the east, is a part of Croatia with the most distinct characteristics of

tural heritage-in particular the large Baroque fortress and the Fran-

Posavina. Its landscape is dominated by the lowlands along the Sava,

ciscan monastery. The second largest urban centre is Nova Gradiška,

between the narrow elevated belt along the Sava in the south and edg-

which is a gravitation point for the western part of the county. The

es towards the foothill region in the north. Only smaller areas of the

cultural and historical development of these parts can be viewed in

once vast natural forests of common oak in Posavina remain, and the

the County Museum in Nova Gradiška, and in nearby Cernik, with its

most valuable of these are today protected as reserves of forest vegeta-

old citadel and Baroque Franciscan monastery. The attraction of Brod-

tion. Slavonian Posavina was for a long time under the dominance of

Posavina County is contributed to by the memorial house of sculptor

Požega, but following the construction of roads through the valley of the Sava it gradually began to develop as the backbone of both life and

Ivan MeštroviÊ in Vrpolje, as well as by the traditional manifestations, “Brodsko kolo” (VI), and Summer of Nova Gradiška (VIII).

County of Virovitica and Podravina

Gilding The County of Virovitica-Podravina is situated in the north-west-

www.virovitica.hr www.tz-slatina.hr www.orahovica.hr

town is reflected in the Baroque-Classicistic-style castle, and in

ern part of eastern Croatia, covering the western part of Slavonian

the Franciscan complex containing valuable monastery collections,

Podravina, between the elevations of Bilogora and Papuk in the

and the church of St. Roc-one of the most mature Baroque entities

south and the River Drava, (the Hungarian border) in the north. Its

in the whole of Slavonia. Orahovica has a valuable cultural herit-

northern part is predominantly flat country which gradually rises

age (the Ružica burgh, the monastery of St. Nicholas). Pitomača

towards the mountain massif of Papuk. The Nature Park within it

is an internationally known venue for children’s films. Virovitica-

contains the valuable natural heritage of the county (the geological

Podravina County also possesses protected parks (Virovitica, Sla-

monument of Rupnica, the Jankovac park-forest and Sekulinačke

tina, Suhopolje), the Virovitica Town Museum, the County Muse-

planine, a special reserve of forest vegetation). Outstanding set-

ums in Slatina and Orahovica, the Ethnological Collection, as well

tlements are Virovitica, Slatina and Orahovica. Virovitica grew at

as a number of cultural manifestations: Songs of Podravina and

the crossroads, as both the historical and the modern centre of

Podravlje (Pitomača, VI), The Spring of Orahovica (VI), Rokovo

this part of Slavonian Podravina. The historical significance of the

(Virovitica, VIII), Days of Milko Kelemen (Slatina, X).

County of Vukovar-Srijem

The Danube

www.tzvsz.hr www.zupanja.hr

Vukovar-Srijem covers western Srijem and the south-eastern part

picturesque heart of the town was shaped with many prestigious

of Slavonia, with three natural geographical entities: the loess plain

buildings built in Baroque style along the main street. The terrible

of Vukovar, the Bosut lowlands with the basin of Spačva and the

devastation suffered by the town during the Croatian War of In-

Posavina around Županja. In the far, eastern section, the loess plain

dependence, and the role it played in that war, resulted in Vukovar

extends into the foothills of Fruška gora, ending in steep inclines

becoming a memorial monument, and occupying a unique place

by the Danube. The Spačva basin is the core of the once famous

in the collective consciousness of the Croatian people. Županja has

Slavonian forests, with some 400 km 2 under common oak. The

been a venue for tennis and football since as far back as 1880s.

most valuable parts of that forest now enjoy protection as special

The county also stages a number of manifestations more than well

reserves of forest vegetation (Lože and Radiševo). Natural sites of

worth a visit: “Šokačko sijelo” (Encounters of Šokadija, Županja, II);

Spačva also include the locality of Virovi. The most important as-

How lovely is Srijem (Nijemci, V); Springtime in Otok (Otok, V);

pects of cultural heritage are found in Vinkovci, Vukovar, Županja

Festival of Actors (V); Where the Danube Kisses the Sky (Vukovar,

and Ilok. The centre of the county, both historically and today, is

VI); White Horses (Babina Greda, VI); Harvesting and Threshing

Vukovar, also the largest Croatian port on the Danube. Its devel-

in the Past (Županja, VII); Harvest Festivities (Cerna, VII); Grape

opment took off at the beginning of the 18th century, when the

Picking in Ilok (IX), and Autumns in Vinkovci (IX).

County of Požega-Slavonia

Springs

www.tzzps.hr www.pozega-tz.hr www.pakrac.hr

In the central part of western Slavonia, situated between Podravi-

with its rich cultural heritage-particularly its central square, one

na and Posavina, is the County of Požega-Slavonia. Its landscape is

of the most beautiful in the country. This town has been made fa-

dominated by the mountainous chain encircling the Požega valley,

mous throughout the world by its native son, the Congo explorer,

separating it from the Drava valley to the north, the River Sava to

Dragutin Lehrman. The Požega Valley, enclosed and sheltered by

the south, and the River Pakra in the west. Covered in forests, the

its relief, has a long winegrowing tradition and is now becoming

mountains of Psunj, Papuk, Krndija, Požeška gora and Dilj-gora

widely known for its ecological food production. In the north, at

also abound in water. The peak belt and the slopes of those moun-

the foot of Krndija and Papuk, are locations interesting to tourists:

tains are replete with springs feeding numerous streams, while

Kutjevo, with its famous wine cellars, and Velika together with

their foothills hold thermal springs. The natural treasures of Sla-

Toplice, its thermal spa. The cultivated appearance of this part of

vonia’s mountains are further enriched by the protected natural

Slavonia is contributed to by its protected parks (Kutjevo, Trenko-

heritage (“Muški bunar” (Man’s well at Psunj, and “Sovsko jezero”

vo, and Lipik). The Cultural manifestations held here also play an

(lake) on Dilj-gora). The traditional centre of this part of Slavo-

important role: Grgurevo (III), Festival of one-minute films (V),

nia, and today also the seat of Požega-Slavonia County, is Požega,

Golden Strings of Slavonia (IX), Days of Graševina (Kutjevo).

Eneolithic

Calendar

At the same time when the first town in Mesopotamia emerged, before the appearance of cuneiform writing, at the beginning of the early dynastic period of ancient Egypt, of the foundation of Troy and European beginnings, traces of which are found in megalithic tombs, a shaman in today’s town of Vinkovci used in his rituals an almost nondescript ceramic ornamented pot. In a scientific adventure no less exciting than was Schliemann’s excavation of Troy, or Champollion’s deciphering of hieroglyphs on the walls of the Pharaoh’s pyramid fascinating, it was discovered that the signs on that vessel constituted a precise record of celestial phenomena occurring throughout the year, with star constellations and beginnings of seasons of the year, in the centre of which was the magnificent constellation of Orion. A millennium before Stonehenge, and half a millennium before pyramids were built, people in these parts created the oldest known star calendar!

Tourist Board of the County of Osijek-Baranja

Tourist Board of the County of Brod-Posavina

Tourist Board of the Town of Ilok

Publisher:

Šetalište kardinala Franje Šepera 1d/II,

Petra Krešimira IV. 1,

Trg Nikole Iločkog 2, 32 236 Ilok, Croatia

Croatian National Tourist Board

31000 Osijek, Croatia

35000 Slavonski Brod, Croatia

Tel: 385 32 590 020; Fax: 385 32 590 020

Tel: 385 31 214 852; Fax: 385 31 214 853

Tel: 385 35 408 393; Fax: 385 35 408 392

[email protected], www.turizamilok.hr

[email protected], www.tzosbarzup.hr

[email protected] www.tzbpz.hr

Tourist Board of the Town of Županja Veliki kraj 66, 32270 Županja, Croatia

Tourist Board of the Town of Osijek

For the publisher: Niko Bulić, M.Sc. Project Advisory Board:

Županijska 2, 31000 Osijek, Croatia

Tourist Board of the Town of Slavonski Brod

Tel: 385 32 832 711; Fax: 385 32 832 711

Niko Bulić, Stipe Maleš, Rujana Bušić, Josip

Tel: 385 31 203 755; Fax: 385 31 203 947

Trg pobjede 28/1, 35000 Slavonski Brod, Croatia

[email protected], www.zupanja.hr

Mikolčić, Petar Huljić, Dalibor Nedela,

[email protected], www.tzosijek.hr

Tel: 385 35 447 721; Fax: 385 35 447 721 [email protected], www.tzgsb.hr

Antonio Sobol Tourist Board of the Municipality of Nijemci Trg kralja Tomislava 12, 32 245 Nijemci, Croatia

Tourist Board of the Town of Beli Manastir

Editor:

Imre Nagya 2, 31300 Beli Manastir, Croatia

Tourist Board of the Town of Nova Gradiška

Tel: 385 32 280 376; Fax: 385 32 280 377

Slavija Jačan Obratov

Tel: 385 31 702 080; Fax: 385 31 702 080

Slavonskih graničara 15, p.p. 27, 35400

[email protected], www.nijemci.hr

Concept:

[email protected]

Nova Gradiška, Croatia

www.tzg-belimanastir.hr

Tel: 385 35 361 494; Fax: 385 35 361 494

Tourist Board of the County of Požega-Slavonia

[email protected], www.tzgng.hr

Županijska 7, 34000 Požega, Croatia

Collaborators:

Tel: 385 34 272 505; Fax: 385 34 271 465

Miroslav Ambruš-Kiš, Ivo Oblijan & Dr. Želimir

[email protected], www.tzzps.hr

Brnić Text authors:

Tourist Board of the Town of Belišće Tel: 385 31 664 055, Fax: 385 31 664 055

Tourist Board of the County of

Grad Belišće p.p./20

Virovitica-Podravina

Milan Sivački, Creation Team Dr. Aleksandar Durman & Dr. Dane Pejnović

31551 Belišće, Croatia

Trg kralja Tomislava 1, 33000 Virovitica, Croatia

Tourist Board of the Town of Požega

[email protected]

Tel: 385 33 726 069; Fax: 385 33 721 241

Trg sv. Trojstva 1, 34000 Požega, Croatia

Stanko Andrić, Dane Pejnović, Grgur Marko

www.belisce.net

[email protected]

Tel: 385 34 274 900; Fax: 385 34 274 901

Ivanković & Stjepan Lončarić

www.viroviticko-podravska-zupanija.hr

[email protected], www.pozega-tz.hr

Vukovarska 1, 31540 Donji Miholjac, Croatia

Tourist Board of the Town of Virovitica

Tourist Board of the Town of Lipik

Dražen Bota, Damir Fabijanić, Dalibor Nedela, Ivo

Tel: 385 31 633 103; Fax: 385 31 633 103

Trg kralja Tomislava 1, 33000 Virovitica, Croatia

Marija Terezija 27, 34551 Lipik, Croatia

Pervan, Saša Pjanić, Damir Rajle, Mario Romulić, Zvonimir Tanocki & Marin Topić

Tourist Board of the Town of Donji Miholjac

Photography:

[email protected]

Tel: 385 33 726 069; Fax: 385 33 721 241

Tel: 385 34 421 224; Fax: 385 34 421 204

www.tz-donjimiholjac.hr

[email protected], www.virovitica.hr

[email protected], www.lipik.hr

Tourist Board of the Town of Đakovo

Tourist Board of the Town of Orahovica

Tourist Board of the Town of Pakrac

Photographs from foreign sources: “Orion” (NASA), “Gladiator” (our thanks go to

Kralja Tomislava 3, 31400 Đakovo, Croatia

F. Gavrančića 6, 33515 Orahovica, Croatia

Trg bana Jelačića 18, 34550 Pakrac, Croatia

Tel: 385 31 812 319; Fax: 385 31 822 319

Tel: 385 33 673 332; Fax: 385 33 673 125

Tel: 385 34 411 454; Fax: 385 34 411 081

[email protected]

[email protected], www.orahovica.hr

[email protected], www.pakrac.hr

Design: Bojan Sivački

Branko Lustig), “Orient Express”.

www.tz-djakovo.hr Tourist Board of the Town of Slatina

Tourist Board of the Municipality of Kutjevo

Material acquisition assistants:

Tourist Board of the Town of Našice

Trg sv. Josipa 1, 33520 Slatina, Croatia

Trg Graševine 1, 34340 Kutjevo, Croatia

Damir Macanić, Janja Juzbašić & Srećko Vuković

Pejačevićev trg 4, 31500 Našice, Croatia

Tel: 385 33 553 629; Fax: 385 33 553 629

Tel: 385 34 315 078; Fax: 385 34 255 093

Tel: 385 31 614 951; Fax: 385 31 614 951

[email protected], www.tz-slatina.hr

[email protected], www.tznasice.hr

[email protected]

Authors of literature used:

www.tz-kutjevo.com

Dr. Viktor Amruš, Dr. Nedeljko Bosanac, Božica

Tourist Board of the Municipality of Pitomača

Brkan, Dr. Katica Čorkalo, Ljubica Gligorević,

Tourist Board of the Town of Valpovo

Ljudevita Gaja 26/1, 33405 Pitomača, Croatia

Tourist Board of the Municipality of Velika

M.Sc., Rudolf Heli, Dr. Ivana Iskra Janošić,

Matije Gupca 32, 31550 Valpovo, Croatia

Tel: 385 33 782 860; Fax: 385 33 782 870

Trg bana Jelačića 34, 34330 Velika, Croatia

Dr. Eduard Kušen, Vilim Matić, Ivo Lajtman,

Tel: 385 31 656 207; Fax: 385 31 651 408

[email protected], www.pitomaca.hr

Tel: 385 34 233 033; Fax: 385 34 313 033

Srećko Ljubljanović, Ivica Mandić, Dr. Stanislav

[email protected]

Marjanović, Dr. Ive Mažuran, Dr. Melita

www.opcina-velika.hr

Mihaljević, Dr. Jozsef Mikuska, Božo Plevnik,

[email protected], www.tz-valpovo.com Tourist Board of the County of Vukovar-Srijem Tourist Board of the Municipality of Bilje

Glagoljaška 27, 32100 Vinkovci, Croatia

Goran Radonić, Dr. Stjepan Sršan, Vlasta Šabić,

Kralja Zvonimira 10, 31327 Bilje, Croatia

Tel: 385 32 344 034; Fax: 385 32 344 034

Dr. Jasna Šimić, Dr. Branko Štancl & Dr. Željko

Tel: 385 31 751 480; Fax: 385 31 751 481

[email protected], www.tzvsz.hr

Hrvatska turistička zajednica

Tomičić.

(Croatian National Tourist Board)

[email protected], www.tzo-bilje.hr Tourist Board of the Town of Vinkovci

Iblerov trg 10, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia

English translation: Volga Vukelja-Dawe

Tourist Board of the Municipality of Bizovac

Trg bana Josipa Šokčevića 3,

Tel: 385 1 46 99 333; Fax: 385 1 45 57 827

English-language editor: Anthony J. Dawe

Sunčana 39, 31222 Bizovac, Croatia

32100 Vinkovci, Croatia

[email protected], www.croatia.hr

Tel: 385 31 685 185; Fax: 385 31 685 188

Tel: 385 32 334 653; Fax: 385 32 334 658

Printing preparation: Printel, Zagreb

[email protected], www.tzbizovac.hr

[email protected]

Production: SHM

www.tz-vinkovci.hr Tourist Board of the Municipality of Draž Braće Radića 58, 31305 Draž, Croatia

Publishing House: Tiskara Meić, Zagreb Tourist Board of the Town of Vukovar

Tel: 385 31 736 474; Fax: 385 31 736 474

J. J. Strossmayera 15, 32000 Vukovar, Croatia

Printed in September 2007 using Symbol

www.draz.hr

Tel: 385 32 442 889; Fax: 385 32 442 889

Freelife paper.

[email protected] Tourist Board of the Municipality of Erdut Zlatna ulica 2, 31205 Aljmaš, Croatia Tel: 385 31 590 150; Fax: 385 31 590 150 [email protected], www.opcina-erdut.hr

www.tz-vukovar.hr

GRATIS