Shasta Gbr Prospectus 2009

CHEMEKETAN CLIMB PROSPECTUS

MT. SHASTA Climb Dates: Route: Max. Elevation: Elevation Gain: Round Trip Distance:

May 8-10, 2009 Green Butte Ridge 14,162’ 7,302’ 14 Miles

Leader: Assistant Leader:

John Petrie Gloria Petrie

Climb Updates/Info:

http://rhinoascents.blogspot.com/

Chemeketan Rating: Technical Difficulty:

S1+ Grade II, snow climb, scrambling, altitude

Driving Directions: From Salem: Our approach begins at Bunny Flat Trailhead. Take I-5 South to California Exit #738 “Central Mt. Shasta”. Go East on Lake Street, continuing through the Mt. Shasta Boulevard intersection, until you meet up with the Everitt Memorial Highway (A10). Drive North 11 miles, winding up the mountain to the Bunny Flat parking lot, where we will meet and obtain our summit permits if we don’t obtain them in town. Including breaks, the travel time from Salem to Mt Shasta City is approximately 6 hours over a distance of 310 miles. For those meeting at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride, the address is: 1100 Airport Rd SE, Salem, Oregon 97301

Route Description: The Green Butte Ridge borders the east side of Avalanche Gulch, the most climbed route on the mountain. I have not yet climbed the proposed route but I suspect it will be fairly straightforward. We may, however, encounter a knife edge or two, or perhaps some steep sections that we’ll want to protect. It will certainly test our endurance and ability to climb at altitude. Prime physical fitness is a must! From Bunny Flat Trailhead, we will head 2 miles up through the trees towards a bulge at the base of the ridge just above treeline. We will gain the ridge proper above Green Butte (9,193’), and begin our ascent up the ridge to somewhere around 10,500’, where we should find a suitable place to setup camp. Early Sunday morning we’ll head up to where Green Butte Ridge meets Sargent’s Ridge, continue past Thumb Rock, up the aptly named “Misery Hill”, and finally traverse up and around to the northeast side of the summit pinnacle for a short scramble to the top. We will descend the climbing route. Be prepared for high winds on the mountain. Weather can change drastically with very little warning.

Itinerary: Date

Time

Fri, May 8

10:00am

Meet at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride in Salem. Carpool/Caravan to Shasta City

4:00

Meet for dinner in Shasta City, buy summit permits ($20 per person, exact change) Drive to Bunny Flat Trailhead (6,860’), car camp, review roped travel techniques

Sat, May 9

8:00am

Start approach to high camp Gain Green Butte Ridge proper above treeline (9,200’) Continue up ridge and setup camp (~10,500’)

Sun, May 10

2:00am 3:00 6:00

Rise & Shine Start climbing Arrive at Thumb Rock (12,923’) Continue up towards Misery Hill, and the summit

8:30

Arrive at Summit Descend back to camp Descend the ridge or drop down into Avalanche Gulch for the hike out Meet in Shasta City for dinner and summit certificates

10:00pm

Arrive back in Salem

Shasta GBR Prospectus 2009 - Page 1 of 3

Required Equipment Checklist: Unless otherwise noted, the following equipment is required for participation on this climb. The checklist below lists the minimum items you will need and should be used as a guide only. Each climber is responsible for their own gear. Ten Essentials:

Additional Items:

Team Gear:

Navigation - Map & Compass (GPS if available) Sun Protection – Sunscreen, Lip Balm, and Sunglasses (Clear Night Goggles – optional) Insulation - Extra Clothing Illumination - Headlamp w/ Extra Batteries First-Aid Supplies Fire - Fire Starter/Waterproof Matches/Lighter Repair Kit & Tools – incl. Knife, Whistle Nutrition - Extra Food Hydration – Extra Water (3 liters recommended) Emergency Shelter - Emergency Tarp/Space Blanket/Bivouac Gear Wool Cap/Hat Sun Hat/Bandana Layered Clothing – No Cotton Gloves/Mittens + Extras Waterproof Jacket/Pants, Glissade Shorts/Pants (Recommended) Mountaineering Boots – Heavy Leather, Synthetic or Plastic + Gaiters Crampons – Fit to Boots Prior to Climb Ice Axe Helmet Climbing Harness w/ Prussiks (2-3), Carabiners (2 lockers + 2 extras) Snow Camping Gear – Tent (extra stakes), Stove (extra fuel), Water Filter, etc Sleeping Bag w/ Winter Sleeping Pad Snowshoes/Skis (optional but recommended) Trekking Poles (optional) Radios (optional) – set to 10/5 or 11/6 (TBD) Snow Shovel (One per tent) Other Personal Items as Necessary Radios, Wands, Pickets, Rope(s), Shovel(s)

Reference/Maps: Selters, Andy & Zanger, Michael The Mt Shasta Book, (Wilderness Press), pp. 42-45, 53 summitpost.org; climbingmtshasta.org; various independent trip reports MAP: Mt. Shasta, CA, 7.5 minute quadrangle by USGS, 1986

Emergency Contacts: Mount Shasta Ranger District, 530-926-4511; Siskiyou County Sheriff 530-842-8300; The Fifth Season 530-926-3606; 911. Salem Emergency Contact – TBD

CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS 1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness. 2. Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the meeting location. 3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared for the climb.

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Climb Team: (Posted when final)

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Name

Contact Phone

Alt. Phone

Email

John Petrie Gloria Petrie

503-910-9041 (m) 503-910-8000 (m)

503-581-2825 (w) 503-588-8080 (w)

[email protected] [email protected]

Alternates:

Additional Comments: Please notify the leader if you are UNABLE to make riding arrangements to the trailhead. I encourage everyone to make necessary arrangements to share gear as appropriate (stove, water filter, tent, etc). Superior physical fitness is a must. If you cannot attend this climb, please let me know immediately so I can inform the alternates. The final decision to cancel the climb will be made by Thursday morning, May 7, before 10am. If the climb is cancelled, it may be rescheduled. Contact leader for further information.

A view of our intended route from Bunny Flat Trailhead

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