Phil Davis

Gambell, Saint Lawrence Island, Alaska “Gambell 2” Trip Report May 29 – June 3, 2008 “The Year of the Ivory Gull” by Phil Davis Davidsonville, Maryland High Lonesome BirdTours

A sub-adult Ivory Gull feeding on seal entrails at West Beach, 29 May 2008. Phil Davis

1. Introduction. This year marked my tenth birding trip to Gambell and twelth to western Alaska. This year, prior to Gambell, I first led a group to St. Paul in the Pribilof Islands for a fourday tour (see separate report). On Gambell, I served as a birding leader for the High Lonesome BirdTours second (“Gambell 2”) six-day spring trip. I arrived at Gambell from Anchorage, via Nome, with our clients the early afternoon of 29 May. Our group and staff departed Gambell on 3 Jun. During this 6-day period, we shared the island with other birding groups, including Wilderness Birding Adventures [WBA] (leaders Bob Dittrick and James Huntington); WINGS (leaders Jon Dunn and Paul Lehman); and several independent birders.

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2. The Weather and the Environment. NOAA charts of weather conditions for the period 22 May (a week before our arrival) though 5 Jun (two days after our departure) are shown in Figure 1, below. Temperatures. In general, the temperature was typical and rather mild (for Gambell). The temperature at the airport during our stay ranged from a low of 28 F to a high of 51 F. The daily averages during our stay were a low of 31 F and a high of 40 F. Winds. During our “Gambell 2” trip, the winds generally blew from the west for the first four days, with a brief switch to the north the morning of Sunday, 1 Jun. Wind velocity was generally low, ranging from calm on Thursday through Saturday (30 May – 1 Jun) to a high of 31 mph (sustained) when the winds turned east and picked up on Monday (2 Jun). The average wind velocity over the six-day period was only 4 mph (!). The maximum gust was 34 mph on Monday, 2 Jun. Winds prevailed from the north earlier in the month. Visibility. Most of the period was clear with long-range visibility while the winds were calm or light out of the west. The mountains of the Russian Chukota Peninsula were visible on most days, except during foggy mornings and brief periods of reduced visibility. Snow Cover. When our Gambell 2 group arrived, there was considerable snow cover left on the ground. Initially, the far boneyard was not birdable due to snow covering the holes in the boneyard. The berms at the south end of Troutman Lake were too snowed-in to bird. Lake Ice. Troutman Lake was totally frozen upon our arrival and barely thawed any during the period. South Lake was basically frozen the entire time. The northeast marsh was frozen early during our stay, limiting habitat for shorebirds.

Tundra and snow-covered Oonyk Point, Gambell. Phil Davis

Bering Sea Ice. Drift sea ice was present during much of our visit. The westerly winds, although light, and sea currents kept the west and north beach packed with ice for a portion of the time. Ice floes and shore-fast ice was usually present, offering roosting perches for gulls, especially Ivory Gulls. The locals hunted seals on the nearby drift ice.

The mountains of the Russian Chukota Peninsula visible about 40 miles west. Phil Davis

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Figure 1. NOAA Gambell Weather Data: 22 May – 5 Jun. 3. Staff and Clients. Our Gambell-2 tour included ten clients. Our leaders were: Dave MacKay (Sonora, Mexico), Phil Davis (Davidsonville, Maryland), and executive chef, Jennifer MacKay (Sonora, Mexico). 4. Arrivals and Departures. All arrivals and departures were on-time this year. 5. The Birding. The calm winds were apparently too low to contribute many Asian vagrants during our tour; however, we still saw many “good” birds during our stay, especially Western Alaskan specialties. Western Alaskan Specialties and Asian Vagrants. During our “Gambell 2” tours, western Alaskan specialties seen included Emperor Goose, Steller’s Eider, King Eider, Common Eider, Arctic Loon, Yellow-billed Loon, Pacific Golden Plover, Common Ringed Plover, Red-necked Stint, Rock Sandpiper, Vega Gull, Ivory Gull, all three jaegers, Dovekie (a Gambell specialty for the Bering Sea), Black Guillemot, all three expected auklets (Parakeet, Least, and Crested), both puffins (Horned and Tufted), Northern Wheatear, Eastern Yellow Wagtail, White Wagtail, Red-throated Pipit, and the Asian japonicus subspecies of American Pipit. Asian vagrants included a Little Bunting (!) and Asian subspecies of Barn Swallow. We recorded a total of 74 species during our six days on the island, only one less than last year’s “Gambell 2” tour.

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Birding Areas. The birding areas we covered on the island included the following: the “near boneyard”, the “far boneyard”, the “circular boneyard”, Northwest Point (aka, “sea watch” or “the point”), the cliffs, the north and west beaches, the boat yard, the walrus “pull out area”, “old town”, the northeast marsh, Troutman Lake, the hillsides above and below the lake road, the hillside between the far bone yard and the cliffs, the “far (or south) marsh”, the runway road, the south end of Troutman Lake (including the ponds, and grassy areas), the gravel ponds, the berms, South Lake, the tundra east of South Lake, and the rocky outcroppings at the beach at the south end of South lake (Oonyik Point). Trip List. A daily trip list of species seen is provided as a separate document.

6. Notable Species. Accounts of notable Asian, western Alaskan, Alaska mainland, and Saint Lawrence Island species are presented, below. Greater White-fronted Goose. Single birds were seen as flybys on 31 May and 1 Jun. Cackling Goose. Three “white-cheeked” geese were seen as flybys on 30 May. These smallbilled birds were presumed to be taverneri Cackling Geese which breed on the Seward Peninsula. Snow Goose. Flybys were seen on two separate days. Emperor Goose. This species was seen in small numbers at seawatch on two of our six days. Larger flocks were seen by others before our “Gambell 2” arrival. “Black” Brant. This species was seen most days in small numbers. Tundra Swan. A few birds were seen heading north next to the mountain on 31 May. Black Brant at seawatch. Phil Davis.

Northern Pintail. Seen commonly at the northeast marsh, far marsh, on South Lake, and even from seawatch. Green-winged Teal. This year, only American Green-winged Teal (A. c. carolinensis) were observed at several locations but no Eurasian “Common” Teal. Greater Scaup. Birds were in the cove and in flight at seawatch on 1-2 Jun. Steller’s Eider. This species was Flock of Steller’s Eider males chasing one female at the cliffs. Phil Davis. 06/10/2008

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seen this year in good numbers every day. A flock of 10 birds, consisting of eight adult males, one first-year male, and one female was found cavorting on the water off of the cliffs on 31 May. [Spectacled Eider]. This species was not observed by us during this period; however at least one was seen by others on 31 May. Generally, at Gambell, seeing them is basically a function of the time invested in seawatching vs. chasing other rare land birds; however, the numbers were low this year. A number of birds were seen during our first High Lonesome BirdTours group so the species seemed to have migrated earlier again this year. It appears that the first tour is shaping up better for seeing this species. King Eider. This species was seen regularly most days at seawatch during the period; however, the numbers seemed much lower compared to previous years, likely due to an earlier migration.

A mixed eider flock (with a Thick-billed Murre). From the left; adult Common, female Common, female King, and female Common. Note the head shape and coloration difference between the female Common and King Eiders. Phil Davis.

Common Eider. Flocks of Common Eiders were seen most days throughout the period. Harlequin Duck. This species was seen on a majority of the days, but only in small numbers; down from previous years. White-winged Scoter. We saw small flocks on two separate days. On 30 May, five birds were seen in the cove. All male birds observed appeared to be of the North American subspecies (with brown on the sides) and a relatively smaller bill knob, Harlequin Duck at the point. Phil Davis. rather than the all black “Far Eastern” White-winged Scoter (M. d. stejnegeri), which has been recorded a handful of times from Gambell and is a possible candidate for a future split. Long-tailed Duck. Common and in large numbers. Common Merganser. We saw three birds flying by seawatch on 31 May. The males showed the characteristics of the American subspecies, rather than the Eurasian Goosander, which has occasionally been observed further south in the Aleutian Islands.

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Red-breasted Merganser. Seen in small numbers on two days at seawatch. Loons (general): Loons passed the point during our stay in relatively small numbers this year, apparently due to an earlier migration. Red-throated Loon. Only one was observed by our group this year, on 1 Jun off of Oonyik Point. Arctic Loon. Our first three Arctic Loons were seen on 31 May. Several more birds were seen by our group on 2 Jun. Total numbers were small this year during our stay, again likely due to an early migration. Pacific Loon. This species was seen daily at seawatch in relatively low numbers. Yellow-billed Loon. Numbers were also low this year, again likely due an early migration. Our first was on 30 May and several more were seen on 2 Jun. Larger numbers were reported earlier. Red-necked Grebe. This species was seen by other groups on several days; we saw one bird on 3 Jun. Northern Fulmars. This species was common at seawatch daily. Pelagic Cormorant. Present daily. [White-tailed Eagle?]. On the morning before we arrived (29 May) two birders briefly saw an immature eagle with an short, wedge-shaped tail, which was described as an immature Whitetailed Eagle. A distant photograph of the bird flying away seemed to support that identification.

Pelagic Cormorant flying by the point. Phil Davis.

Rough-legged Hawk. A pair seemed to be attending a possible nest at the upper reaches of the mountain, similar to last year. [Small Falcon, sp.] A small falcon, thought to possibly be a Eurasian Hobby, or perhaps a Merlin was reported on our last day by observers at the south end of Troutman Lake “flying north” toward the village. We rushed outside; however, the fog was thick at the time and we did not see the bird. Peregrine Falcon. One was recorded on three separate days. Sandhill Crane. Flocks of Sandhill Cranes were seen on a majority most days as fly-bys.

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Pacific Golden Plover. We found only one bird this year on 1 Jun at the south end of Troutman Lake. Common Ringed Plover. We saw our first bird on 31 May and then on 1 Jun several pairs were observed with two pairs near the septic tanks at the south end and one pair at the near boneyards. Semipalmated Plover. This species was seen most days at various locations. Ruddy Turnstone. Two birds flew by the “airport” as we were waiting to board our departing plane on 3 Jun. Western Sandpiper. This species was seen daily at various locations, mostly along the east side of Troutman Lake. Many were displaying. Red-necked Stint. A cooperative bird was found at the south end of Troutman Lake on 30 May. Pectoral Sandpiper. A few birds were seen mostly around the far marsh on 30 – 31 May.

Common Ringed Plover (female) in the near boneyard, here showing white supercilium, pointed white forehead patch, no white over the bill gape, and wide dark breast band. Phil Davis.

Rock Sandpiper. In keeping with the unusual year, we actually had to work (hard!) to find a Rock Sandpiper this year! We succeeded on the hillside at the far marsh and then saw only one after that. (Who’d have “thunk it”!) This is the “Bering Sea” subspecies (tschuktschorum) which is visibly different (smaller and darker) from the Pribilof’s form. Dunlin. This species was also seen displaying and singing daily at various locations daily. Long-billed Dowitcher. Birds were seen at the south marsh on three different days; up to four were seen at once. Wilson’s Snipe. One returning resident was present at the south marsh daily. [Common Snipe have also been recorded on the island during previous years.] Red-necked Phalarope. Birds were seen daily at various locations. Some were very cooperative for photography. Mew Gull. An adult was seen flying by the point at seawatch on 1 Jun. It was the American form L. c. brachyrhynchus rather than the Asian L. c. kamtschatschensis. “Vega” Herring Gull. This taxon (“Siberian Gull”) was seen daily and is a candidate for a split from the “American Herring Gull” since it is more closely related to the other Siberian gull species rather than the North American smithsonianus. Glaucous Gull. These were the most common gulls around the island.

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Black-legged Kittiwake. This species was commonly seen. In addition to adults, first-year birds were also occasionally seen. Ivory Gull. Earlier in the birding season, up to seven birds at once were reported at Gambell. The presence of shore ice and continued seal hunting (providing entrails as gull food) contributed to the daily continued presence of these birds into June. This was truly the “Year of the Ivory Gull” at Gambell. During our “Gambell 2” stay, we saw two birds at once for the first two days, at killer ranges, and at least one bird each day for the last three days. Most of the birds appeared to be sub-adults with varying amounts of remaining black flecking.

Black-legged Kittiwake at the point. Phil Davis

Ivory Gulls around the point at Gambell. Phil Davis.

Jaegers. Jaegers were present in small numbers. The expected northerly migration of Pomarine Jaegers was not observed in huge numbers this year during our stay (but some migration of 100+ flocks was noted during the first Gambell tour); a few birds were observed from seawatch. A few Long-taileds were seen from the Point or on the tundra at the South Lake. Two Parasitic Jaegers were seen on 2 Jun harassing gulls and kittiwakes during off-shore feeding frenzies. Seabirds – General. Conditions were mostly clear and clam during most seawatch sessions, with a few foggy mornings that later cleared up. On a few occasions, the presence of drift ice seemed to push some seabirds out further as they flew between the nesting cliffs and feeding grounds. Dovekie. On 30 May we searched for and found four birds on the side of the mountain in the general “usual” area. We did not search again on subsequent days; however, others found up to eight birds at other times.

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Murres. Both Common and Thick-billed were seen daily, affording good opportunities to study their differences.

Thick-billed Murre (left) and Common Murre (right) flying by the point showing coloration (black vs. “chocolate”) and other subtle differences. Note the reflections from the calm waters! Phil Davis

Guillemots. This was also the year of the Black Guillemot! Birds were seen in numbers on 30 May and many remained into June. We saw breeding and transitional plumaged birds on the very late dates of 2 and 3 Jun. Pigeon Guillemot numbers seemed low this year but were seen daily both from the point and at the cliffs. Auklets. All three species (Parakeet, Least, and Crested) were seen daily at seawatch (in flight and on the water) and on the side of the mountain.

Black Guillemots in transitional plumage at the point. Phil Davis.

Puffin. Both species (Horned and Tufted) were seen from seawatch daily. Common Raven. Birds were seen or heard daily. Barn Swallow. A single bird of the

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Crested Auklet flocks flying by the point, with the Russian Chukota Peninsula in the background. Phil Davis.

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unidentified subspecies was seen around the school on 29 May and a bird of one of the Asian subspecies was seen by some on 1 Jun. Bluethroat. Single birds were seen on 31 May and 2 Jun in the boneyards. This species is generally quite “flighty” in migration and better views come from visits to Nome when they are “on territory.” Northern Wheatear. A single female was seen well on 1 Jun in the near boneyard. Gray-cheeked Thrush. Several of this trans-Beringian species were reported in the boneyards seen during the period. We saw one well on 2 Jun in the near boneyard.

Tufted Puffin flying by the point. Phil Davis.

Hermit Thrush. Single birds were present in the near boneyard on 30 May and 1 Jun. Eastern Yellow Wagtail. Birds were seen flying, calling, and occasionally singing at various locations. Best looks were from a sitting bird at the south marsh. White Wagtail. This species was present daily this year. Several pairs (certainly two and perhaps three pair) were observed in various locations (around the school, both boneyards, south marsh, airport ponds, around south lake, west beach, etc.) This species will probably attempt to breed at Gambell again this year. American Pipit. A pink-legged, white-underparts, white wing-barred, heavily malar-streaked American Pipit, showing the characteristics of the Siberian japonicus subspecies (an excellent candidate for a future split) was seen on 1 Jun in the far boneyard. An American Pipit of the pacificus subspecies was also present. Lapland Longspur. This is the most abundant passerine around Gambell. Males were displaying and singing. Little Bunting. There are about ten fall records for this species from Gambell (comprising about one-half of the North American records); however, this year was the first spring record of the species for Alaska and North America. A cooperative bird was found in the near boneyard, affording good looks for all. Snow Bunting. This is the second most abundant passerine around Gambell. Males were also displaying and singing.

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Little Bunting at the far boneyard. First spring record for North America. Phil Davis.

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McKay’s Bunting. After seeing the Little Bunting and then when searching for one of the flighty Bluethroats in the circular boneyard, our client, Paula Wright, found a cooperative male McKay’s Bunting just outside and along the north edge of this boneyard, working the edge of a snow patch. This was seemingly a late date for this species. Redpolls. This year, Hoary Redpolls were common (unlike last year), with a few Common Redpolls separated by streaked undertail coverts. McKay’s Bunting at the circular boneyard. Phil Davis.

7. Misses. Common Sandpipers which had been somewhat regular for several years have not been recorded for the past several years. Shorebird misses included Long-toed Stint; this was the second year we have missed this species in many years. Ross’s Gulls are always hoped for, but are not found regularly. No murrelets were found. Eyebrowed Thrushes have not been seen by us for the past several years. Earlier Reports. As noted, we did not find any Spectacled Eiders during our times at seawatch; although others did see a few at other times; however, the species Hoary Redpoll in the far boneyard. Phil Davis. was seen earlier in the month, including 14 birds on 26 May. No Lesser Sand Plovers were found by us although one or two were seen prior to our arrival between 26-28 May. A male Brambling was present before our arrival. Only one Red-throated Pipit was reported prior to our arrival on 26 May, a very low count for the season! A Wood Sandpiper was reported just before our arrival on 26 May. Only one Slaty-backed Gull for the season was reported on 26 May just before we arrived; a very low number for Gambell (however, our group did find Slaty-backed Gulls in Nome on our last day). One big early miss for us was the Dusky Thrush seen on 26-27 May. Later Reports. A late miss was a Siberian Rubythroat, seen briefly on 5 Jun in the circular boneyard. The other big late miss was the Jack Snipe found in the northeast marsh on 5 Jun. The rubythroat and Jack Snipe appeared after a day of horrible cold and very windy (N/NE) weather.

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8. Mammals. Marine mammals observed included one Pacific Walrus and several Gray Whales (some feeding only 50 yards off of the Point!). A good assortment of seals were seen including two rare Ribbon Seals, floating on ice, blown out of the Russian Gulf of Anadyr, as well as Bearded Seal, Ringed Seal, and Spotted Seal. Land mammals seen included Arctic Fox, Arctic Ground Squirrel, Saint Lawrence Island Collared Lemmings, and Tundra and Red-backed Voles. On our first day, we heard a report that a local had seen a young Polar Bear out on the ice on West Beach, probably escaping after having been earlier stranded on St. Lawrence Island. We did not relocate it. We wondered where the mother was; however, locals do shot Polar Bears.

A (distant!) Ribbon Seal lounging on ice at the point. Phil Davis.

Flukes of a Gray Whale making a terminal dive only about 40 yards off of the point directly in front of us. Phil Davis.

Bearded Seal seen from the point. Phil Davis. 06/10/2008

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9. Nome. Arriving at Nome from Gambell on our return, we had a few hours to do a bit of birding. Notable species seen included: Northern Shrike at the Nome airport; Slaty-backed and Sabine’s Gulls past the Safety Sound bridge; Aleutian Terns at Safety Sound; and a Willow Ptarmigan along Council Road.

Willow Ptarmigan along Council Road at Nome. Phil Davis.

Eastern Yellow Wagtail at Safety Sound at Nome. Phil Davis.

Gulls near the Safety Sound bridge, including a second-cycle Slaty-backed Gull (fourth from the right), showing its dark charcoal-colored mantle. Phil Davis.

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