Pampanga's Real-life Crucifixion

Pampanga’s Real-life Crucifixion by Ramon T. Ayco (First published in my column on “Pinoy Reporter” April 2009 issue.)

This April we will commemorate Christ's death and resurrection -- the “Holy Week” -- locally known in the Philippines as Cuaresma, Semana Santa or Mahal na Araw. Once again the air will be filled with songs of pasyon in “Pabasas” all throughout the country. “Cenaculos” will be staged again in plazas and streets. And the most amazing will be the re-enactment of the sufferings of Jesus through what we call “Penetencias”. "Penitencia" starts as early as Holy Wednesday. Men stripped themselves naked from the waist up while women dressed in all white garbs, walking barefooted under a midday sun and flagging themselves bloody with ropes and broken pieces of glass attached with strings to bamboo sticks. The pinnacle of this is hanging several men on crosses as a reenactment of Jesus’ crucifixion. They do this as a means of atonement of their sins. It is a sort of retribution of their offenses and human weaknesses for past favor such as after going through some crisis or danger in their lives. "Penitencia" is commonly practiced in Manila and almost every provinces of the country with respective local variations. But the most popular which draws thousands of audience not only local but also foreign tourists can be watched in the barrio of San Pedro Cutud, San Fernando, Pampanga. Here the ritual of literally acting out “The passion of Christ” which generally involves self-flagellation is a prelude to the major event which is the nailing of penitents to the cross. The crucifixion and its accompanying activities in the 3 villages of Cutud has now become part of the map of tourism events in the world. “Penitencia” in San Pedro Cutud was first performed fifty three years ago by a local volunteer artists and has become notable event. Year 1962, an individual name Artemio Aoza was first to volunteer to be nailed to the cross on a wooden cross, aiming to be good religious leader and a faith healer. With this act of devotion, the event of crucifixion and penitents whipping which they dubbed Via Crucis took place every year, with number of participants grew, inflicting pain to themselves for their own sins. In 1965, the event of the Via Crucis held in Betis, Guagua, Pampanga caught the interest of the entire nation and became international tourist attraction.

Last year, March 21, 2008, Pampanga carpenter Ruben Enage, 47 was nailed to a wooden cross on Good Friday for the 22nd time, since his first in 1985. Twenty five other penitents, including two women, were also nailed on wooden cross on that day in San Pedro Cutud. Real-life crucifixion are not countenanced by the Catholic Church, but the fine line that separates religious ritual from spectacle is slowly erased as hundreds of tourists troop to this quaint town to witness the tradition in awe and amazement. The Holy Week rituals in Pampanga, most notably the Good Friday re-enactment of Christ's crucifixion, provide not only destinations for spiritual activities of the faithful but also tourism and economic opportunities for the local community. -o0o-