EXPOSICIÓN LINEA DEL TIEMPO Maquillaje y belleza en la Prehistoria Se han encontrado rastros de arcilla roja en algunos restos arqueológicos. Los hombres y mujeres prehistoricos ya conocían y usaban el maquillaje, aunque hay especulaciones sobre su posible finalidad: si lo usaban para realzar la belleza, para celebrar un acto fúnebre o para iniciar un ritual, o bien una combinación de los tres ejemplos citados. Se podría decir que los orígenes de la estética se remontan a la prehistoria. A través del arte y de los instrumentos de uso cotidiano que han llegado a nuestros días, podemos ver como ya entonces existía una preocupación por la belleza. La mujer de la edad de piedra se hacía en la cara manchones de barro de color (posiblemente rojo). Entre los hallazgos más antiguos que hacen alusión al incipiente interés femenino por la belleza, encontramos un grabado en las cercanías de Oslo, Noruega, que reproduce la figura de una mujer embadurnándose con grasa de reno, animal que esta al lado de la figura femenina. Según deducen de la interpretación de las pinturas rupestres las mujeres del paleolítico, ya usaban mejunjes para colorear de marrón rojizo las diferentes partes del cuerpo. Los productos de que disponía la mujer prehistórica se limitaban, prácticamente, a la arcilla, tierras de pigmentos colorantes o toscos productos elaborados a partir de grasas animales. El afeite más antiguo que se conoce estaba compuesto de sulfuro de antimonio. En otros lugares también se han hallado representaciones de mujeres simbolizando la preocupación de estas por el cuidado de su belleza, por ejemplo en Austria, la conocida Venus de Willendorf, y en la Costa Azul francesa, La Venus de Grimaldi.
En la edad del bronce los cazadores y danzantes se teñían parte de su anatomía de rojo y negro, y se embadurnaban el pelo con alguna arcilla. Se han hallado pequeños contenedores de huesos vaciados con pastas coloreadas hechas de grasas y óxidos de hierro o magnesio que pueden haber sido utilizados en la prehistoria para proteger el cuerpo de los rayos del sol. Lo neandertales se colgaban collares hechos con conchas, se maquillaban y, por si fuera poco, se adornaban con vistosas plumas de aves, según un estudio internacional en el que participó el Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC). El empleo de plumas de córvidos y rapaces como ornamentación para el cuerpo refuerza la idea de que tenían pensamiento simbólico y los acerca aún más al Homo sapiens.
Dentro de la historia del maquillaje, los principales registros de su utilización se remontan a los antiguos imperios de Egipto y Roma.
164,000 BC Archaeologists found 164,000-year old makeup in a South African cave. The makeup, consisting of 57 pieces of ground-up rock that would have been reddish- or pinkish-brown, is called one of three hallmarks of modern life found at the site, and is one of the earliest hints of “modern” living. Previously, scientists believed that humankind of this time period weren’t advanced enough for this type of behavior, believing that modern living began approximately 40,000 to 70,000 years ago. 70,000 BC Humans are painting their bodies using plant and earthen materials. Sometimes the decorations were to imitate nature [e.g. animals], and other times the patterns were from natural formations. 10,000 BC Men and women in Egypt use scented oils and ointments to clean and soften their skin and mask body odour. Cosmetics are an integral part of Egyptian hygiene and health. Oils and creams are used for protection against the hot Egyptian sun and dry winds. Myrrh, thyme, marjoram, chamomile, lavender, lily, peppermint, rosemary, cedar, rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame oil, and almond oil provide the basic ingredients of most perfumes that Egyptians use in religious ritual. 4000 BC Egyptian women apply galena mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore) and malachite (bright green paste of copper minerals) to their faces for color and definition. They employ a combination of burnt almonds, oxidized copper, different-colored coppers ores, lead, ash, and ochre -- together called kohl -- to adorn the eyes in an almond shape. Women carry cosmetics to parties in makeup boxes and keep them under their chairs. 3000 BCE: Chinese people began to stain their fingernails with gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg. The colors used represent social class: Chou dynasty royals wear gold and silver, with subsequent royals wearing black or red. Lower classes are forbidden to wear bright colors on their nails. Grecian women paint their faces with white lead and apply crushed mulberries as rouge. The application of fake eyebrows, often made of oxen hair, is also fashionable.
Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead face powder and fashion crude lipstick out of ochre clays laced with red iron.
3000 BC Records of makeup and cosmetics are found in tombs dating from this period. Jars with unguent have been found. Unguent was a substance extensively used by men and women to keep their skin hydrated and supple and to avoid wrinkles from the dry and hot atmosphere. Many of the nut and seed and essential oils being used today were used during these times to prevent dryness against the hot Egyptian sun and winds. Almond, olive and sesame oils along with essential oils like lavender, peppermint, chamomile, rose, myrrh and thyme were commonly used. Makeup was believed to protect one from evil. Kohl, a dark colored powder made by grinding burnt almonds, lead and copper ores, ash and ochre was applied to the eyes with a stick to give the eye an almond look which was considered very desirable. Egyptians decorated their eyes by applying dark green colour to the lower eyelid and by blackening the lashes and upper eyelids with kohl, which was made from antimony or soot. References to this type of makeup being worn are recorded in the New Testament section of the Bible. Red clay and water was used for lips and cheeks. Henna, a plant material, dyed the nails and hair. 1500 BCE: Chinese and Japanese citizens commonly use rice powder to make their faces white. Eyebrows are shaved off, teeth painted gold or black and henna dyes applied to stain hair and faces. 1200 BC - 1150 Surrounding Middle East Kohl eyeliner and other facial treatments were also used in the Middle East. Some regions only restricted cosmetics if it mislead others of your appearance, or caused harm to your body. 1000 BCE: Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead face powder and fashion crude lipstick out of ochre clays laced with red iron.
100 BC – Christian females decided not to use too much cosmetics, which started the belief of future Catholic Church that cosmetic products are items of heretics and devil worshipers, especially red lipsticks.
1 AD Romans used cosmetics extensively. Kohl was used for darkening eyelashes and eyelids, chalk was used for whitening the complexion, and rouge was worn on the cheek. Depilatories were utilized during this time. The Roman men also used to remove excess hair from their bodies, even if it seemed to be a feminine habit. This practice was so common, that a slave was assigned to the baths exclusively for to assist in male depilating. Teeth were viewed as objects of vanity, and searches were conducted for materials to make them more beautiful. Toothpastes were made by blending pumice powder (variety of light spongy volcanic rock used as an abrasive), “Chio putty” (a metallic powder), baking soda and sodium bicarbonate (salt in the form of powder used as a key component in baking powder and self- rising flour). Bad breath was relieved with miraculous pills that Romans sold in the markets by perfume makers. Beauty cases were crafted using cherished woods and containers made of hand- blown glass. Glass pastes or fragrant amber was used to mold them together. The final product would be a beautifully encased cosmetic case lined with an array of lipsticks, and several varieties of eye makeup. Each individual case had a special purpose. Some shapely perfume vials were safely kept in the case. The vials were melted by fire to seal them shut, having to be broken at one end, in order to be opened. 2 AD “Curls, makeup, cosmetics, greasepaint, and teeth you could buy, and with the same money you could have even purchased a new face.” quoted Lucilio in his book “Satire” (Book XVI) 2 AD. 30 AD Black hair was enhanced by using minerals derived from Black Antimony (a metallic element) that was mixed with animal fat, absinthe’s ash (wormwood herb) mixed in rose oil or cypress leaves brewed that were then saturated in vinegar. Red hair was managed by pulverizing leaves in the “Lawsonia Inermis” (or true henna) family. Blond hair was maintained by a potion arriving from Gallic origin. It was made of goat’s fat and Beeches Ash. It was also possible to obtain the hair color of a carrot orange- red or a deep blue perhaps obtained by the indigo plant. These colors were very becoming on the prostitutes or Rufae (meaning red).
100 AD In Rome, people put barley flour and butter on their pimples and sheep fat and blood on their fingernails for polish. In addition, mud baths come into vogue, and some Roman men dye their hair blond. 180 AD Males were not left behind when hair- dying broke into fashion. At one point it was blond everyone wanted; it was the fashion, and referred to as “Alla Gernana” or “German Style” and this was big during Roman Emperor Commodo’s times (even the Emperor used to sprinkle his head with gold powder). EARLY COSMETICS 200 to 1000 AD – Cosmetic products almost disappear from the Europe. Catholic Church openly discouraged their use, promoting their “religious and medicinal threats”.
300-400 AD: Henna is used in India as a hair dye and in mehndi, an art form in which complex designs are painted on to the hands and feet, especially before a Hindu wedding. Henna is also used in some North African cultures.
500 AD During the European middle ages, pale skin was a sign of wealthy lifestyle. Sixth century women sought drastic measures to achieve that look by bleeding themselves. Spanish prostitutes wore pink makeup. En el Medievo, la mujer ideal tenía que ser rubia, pálida, con las mejillas de un color rojo vivo, los labios de color rojo, las cejas arqueadas y negras pero el cuerpo completamente carente de vello. Con el fin de sensibilizar a los hombres sobre la vanidad de los cosméticos, los predicadores narraban la historia de alguien que, tras haber seguido a una mujer por la calle, atraído por su bella cabellera rubia, la supera para verle el rostro y, sorpresa, ve la cara llena de arrugas de su mujer, consumida por cosméticos urticantes y depilatorios astringentes. El maquillaje ciertamente era entendido como motivo de pecado.
600 DC - Presente
Geishas have had a long and extensive history in Japan. Rice powder or bird droppings would be used to whiten their face. Red lipstick was very iconic, and contouring would be created with rouge. Also, their traditional application of eyeliner was originally used with charcoal (today, they use current beauty products) 936-1013 – Arab physician, surgeon and chemist Abulcasis (also known as “father of the modern surgery”) invented solid lipsticks, which could be applied to the lips without the need for paintbrush.
COSMETICS IN THE MIDDLE AGES Medieval women curled their hair with hot tongs. They also dyed their hair. They used vegetable dyes to redden their faces and color their nails. It was fashionable for women to pluck their eyebrows. 1200 AD: As a result of the Crusades, perfumes are first imported to Europe from the Middle East. 1300 AD: In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair comes into fashion. Society women wear egg whites over their faces to create the appearance of a paler complexion. Yet, some thought cosmetics blocked proper circulation and therefore posed a health threat.
1200 AD Thirteenth century affluent women donned pink lipstick as proof they could afford synthetic makeup. 1400 AD In China and Japan, rice powder was applied to the face, eyebrows were shaved and teeth were painted gold or black. RENAISSANCE COSMETICS 1400 - 1500 AD: In Europe, only the aristocracy use cosmetics, with Italy and France emerging as the main centers of cosmetics manufacturing. Arsenic is sometimes used in face powder instead of lead.
The modern notion of complex scent-making evolves in France. Early fragrances are amalgams of naturally occurring ingredients. Later, chemical processes for combining and testing scents supersede their arduous and labor-intensive predecessors.
1560 AD During the Elizabethan period in England, women wore egg whites over their faces for a glazed look. 1500-1600 AD: European women often attempt to lighten their skin using a variety of products, including white lead paint. Queen Elizabeth I of England was one well-known user of white lead, with which she created a look known as "the Mask of Youth." Blonde hair rises in popularity as it is considered angelic. Mixtures of black sulphur, alum, and honey were painted onto the hair and left to work in the sun. 1600 AD During the Italian Renaissance, lead powder and paint was used to lighten the face, which was very damaging to the wearer. Aqua Toffana was a popular face powder made from arsenic, belladonna and lead and named for its creator, Signora Toffana. Signora Toffana instructed her rich clientele to apply the makeup only when their husbands were around. Signora Toffana was finally accused of over 600 deaths [mostly husbands of clients] linked to her powder and liquid poisonous “beauty” concoctions. 1768 AD English Dandies painted cheeks and lips, blackened eyebrows, and perfumed themselves. 1800 AD: Zinc oxide becomes widely used as a facial powder, replacing the previously used deadly mixtures of lead and copper. One such mixture, Ceruse, made from white lead, is later discovered to be toxic and blamed for physical problems including facial tremors, muscle paralysis, and even death. Queen Victoria publicly declares makeup improper. It is viewed as vulgar and acceptable only for use by actors.
1820 AD
During the English Regency era, the most important item was rouge, which was used by most everyone. Eyebrows were blackened and hair was dyed. To prevent a low hairline, a forehead bandage dipped in vinegar in which cats dung had been steeped was worn. Most of the country dwellers’ makeup recipes made use of herbs, flowers, fat, brandy, vegetables, spring water and, of course, crushed strawberries. During this era, white skin signified a life of leisure while skin exposed to the sun indicated a life of outdoor labor. In order to maintain a pale complexion, women wore bonnets, carried parasols, and covered all visible parts of their bodies with whiteners and blemish removers, and most formulas were eventually lethal. The most dangerous beauty aids during this time were white lead and powdered mercury. They not only eventually ruined the skin but also caused hair loss, stomach problems, the shakes, and could even cause death. Even though the danger was known, most women continued to use the formulas to achieve the desired “look”. 1850 AD Up to this date, both men and women wearing makeup was completely socially acceptable. George IV spent a fortune on cold cream, powders, pastes, and scents. But some men began to see the wearing of makeup as a sign of social indifference to the working classes, and many looked upon a man with rouged cheeks as a dandy. 1800s AD - Makeup Recipes For freckle removal: squeeze the juice out of chick-weed, add three times its quantity of soft water, then bathe the skin for five to ten minutes morning and evening. Complexion enhancer: one teaspoon of flour of sulphur and a wine glassful of lime water, shake well and mixed with half a wine-glass of glycerin and a wine-glass of rose-water. Rub on the face every night before going to bed. Remove gray from hair: four ounces of hulls of butternuts are infused with a quart of water, to which half an ounce of copperas was added. Apply to hair with a soft brush every two to three days. Wrinkle removal: melt one ounce of white wax, add two ounces of juice of lily-bulbs, two ounces of honey, two drams of rose-water, and a drop or two of ottar of roses and use on the skin twice a day. 1828 AD Guerlain supplied lip pomades for both men and women. 1850 AD
Victorians abhorred makeup and associated its use with prostitutes and actresses (many considered them one and the same). Any visible hint of tampering with one’s natural color would be looked upon with disdain. At that time, a respectable woman would use homeprepared face masks, most of which were based on foods such as oatmeal, honey, and egg yolk. 1850 AD - Victorian Beauty Regimens Skin cleansing: rosewater or scented vinegars were used. Beauty regimen: a woman would pluck her eyebrows, massage castor oil into her eyelashes, use rice powder to dust her nose, and buff her nails to a shine. Lipstick was not used, but clear pomade would be applied to add sheen. However some of these products contained a dye to discretely enhance natural lip color. Healthy Skin look, red beet juice would be rubbed into the cheeks, or the cheeks would be pinched (out of sight, of course). Bright eyes: a drop of lemon juice in each eye would do the trick. The Industrial Revolution made the mass production of cosmetics possible although many people continued to make cosmetics at home. However in the 19th century some people disapproved of women wearing makeup and it was often sold under the counter. Meanwhile in the 19th century soap became cheaper and towards the end of the century the middle class began to have bathrooms. In the 19th century women used lampblack as eye shadow. They also used rouge and at the end of the 19th century painting the lips became common. Meanwhile zinc oxide replaced white lead for whitening the face.
1900 AD Colourful makeup begins to resurface, full makeup was still seen as sinful, although natural tones were accepted to give a healthy, pink-cheek look. Zinc oxide was found to be a safer alternative to lead. This is one of the natural cosmetic ingredients that is commonly used today. 1900 AD: In Edwardian Society, pressure increases on middle-aged women to appear as young as possible while acting as hostesses. Increased, but not completely open, cosmetic use is a popular method of achieving this goal.
Beauty salons increase in popularity, though patronage of such salons is not necessarily accepted. Because many women are loathe to admit that they needed assistance to look young, they often entered salons through the back door. In the 20th century the old puritanical attitude to makeup was forgotten and it was sold openly. With rising living standards women could afford more and more cosmetics. In 1915 Maurice Levy invented lipstick push up sticks in tubes. The new lipstick became common in the 1920s. Modern mascara was invented in 1913 by a man named T L Williams. The film director D.W. Griffith invented false eyelashes in 1916. Women have dyed their nails for centuries but modern nail varnish was invented in 1917. The French manicure was invented in 1975. Meanwhile modern lip gloss was invented in 1930 and went on sale in 1932.
1910 AD Women made their own form of mascara by adding hot beads of black wax to the tips of their eyelashes. Some women would use petroleum jelly for this purpose. 1914 AD The first modern commercial mascara formulated was named after Mabel, the sister of its creator, T. L. Williams, who mixed petroleum jelly and carbon soot together. This mascara is known today as Maybelline. 1914 AD Helena Rubenstein, Elizabeth Arden and Max Factor opened cosmetic salons in the early 1900’s. Some of the looks that inspired these early cosmetic giants was makeup seen in the theatre and ballet of the times. Commercial makeup really starts to come of age. 1914 AD Vogue featured Turkish women using henna to outline their eyes, and the movie industry immediately took interest. This technique made the eyes look larger, and the word “vamp” became associated with these women, vamp being short for vampire. 1920s AD The first pressed powders were introduced and included a mirror and puff for touchups. Pressed powder blush followed soon after. 1920s AD
The first liquid nail polish, several forms of modern base, powdery blushes and the powder compacts are introduced. 1920s AD The lipstick metal case, invented by Maurice Levy, became popular. 1920s AD Lipstick was tattooed onto the lips by George Burchett, who was also known as the “Beauty Doctor”. This method did not always work, and you can imagine the terrible consequences. 1922 AD The vamp look wasn’t just for women. Rudolf Valentino [The Sheik] and other male movie stars of the time made the dark, outlined eyes a sexy expression. 1928 AD Pan-cake makeup, originally developed to look natural on color film, was created by Max Factor. 1930s AD The earliest version of an acid peel was utilized at this time, which was a combination of acid and electric currents applied to the skin. 1930s AD Nivea cold cream made its appearance in Germany, and companies, in order to compete with its success, began creating creams consisting of Vaseline mixed with fragrance. 1930s AD Lip gloss was introduced by Max Factor. New shades of red lipstick were developed, although were soap-based and very drying. 1930s AD The first commercial eyelash curler came on the scene, called Kurlash. Even though it was expensive and difficult to use, this did not detract from its popularity. 1932 AD Charles and Joseph Revson, nail polish distributors, and Charles Lackman, a nail polish supplier, founded Revlon, which sells nail polish in a wide variety of colors. 1935 AD
Aerosol deodorant is introduced. 1940 AD Leg makeup is developed in response to shortages of stockings, caused by the war 1941 AD Aerosols are actually untested, paving the way for the hairspray. 1944 AD The first sunscreen was developed by chemist Benjamin Green; the product evolved into Coppertone Suntan Cream. 1952 AD Mum, the first company to commercially market deodorant, launches the first roll-on deodorant, which is inspired by the design of another recently invented product—the ballpoint pen. 1954 AD Jacques Courtain founds Clarins 1954 AD Pancake make-up is launched in Japan. 1954 AD Shiseido expands to become an international brand. 1955 AD Crest, the first toothpaste with fluoride clinically proven to fight cavities, is introduced. 1958 AD Mascara wands in tubes debut, eliminating the need for applying mascara with a brush. 1961 AD Cover Girl make-up, one of the first brands sold in grocery stores and targeted to teens, is introduced by Noxzema 1962 AD Revlon enters the Japanese market.
1960's-1970's The rise of feminism inspired women to go without makeup during this decade. Women viewed the use of makeup to identify themselves as sex objects. In the 70's, makeup companies began producing makeup for African American women. Previously, most makeup shades were not rich enough or were too pale, limiting African American women of their choices.
1970s AD In the United States the first products for Afro-Americans are launched on the market. 1989 AD The Iron Curtain falls. Eastern Europe and Russia open up to the West. In 2011 around 70% of Russian cosmetics market is dominated by foreign brands or companies. 1990s AD Touche Eclat by Yves St. Laurent was launched and became the item to have as part of one's cosmetic regimen. 1993 AD The term anti aging is coined. It rapidly leaves the medical sphere and establishes itself in the world of body care and wellness, launching the next big chapter in cosmetic research – and in marketing. 2005 AD The first Men’s VOGUE is published in the US. 2008 AD Make-up products for men become more available – Guyliner and manscara. In a newspaper survey in the UK (2010) 21% of British men stated that they used eyeliner. 2014 AD
Egipto En esta civilización destaca la gran importancia que tanto mujeres como hombres daban
utilizando el kohl. Las uñas de manos y pies se pintaban de colores brillantes, especialmente púrpura. Como símbolo se usaba la barba postiza, privilegio del faraón. Se han hallado numerosos instrumentos utilizados para cosméticos, destacando la “paleta de toro” que se encuentra en el Museo de Louvre. Estas paletas se utilizaban para mezclar aceites y diluir cosméticos.
Grecia Recibió de Egipto la herencia de los cuidados estéticos que más tarde introducirían en Europa. El buen estado físico fue una de sus mayores disciplinas. Realizaban competiciones deportivas que más tarde llamarían juegos. Ambos sexos dedicaban horas al baño y al masaje. El hombre se rizaba el cabello y la barba y se depilaba las piernas. La figura femenina era más estilizada y el color de la piel muy blanco (considerado como signo de apasionamiento). Para conseguirlo ingerían diariamente gran cantidad de cominos y blanqueaban la piel con[/color] Cerus y Alballalde. Utilizaban el kohl en los ojos, maquillando los párpados de negro y azul; las cejas se perfilaban sin alargarlas, los labios y las mejillas se coloreaban en rojo vino. Se teñían el cabello y la depilación corporal se realizaba con pomada.La belleza femenina llevaba el pelo suelto y rizado sobre los hombros utilizando el lápiz azul en los ojos.
Israel. Los israelitas pasaron más de cuatro siglos en Egipto y recibieron lógicamente una fuerte influencia. Las mujeres, a pesar de sus rígidas reglas, siguieron utilizando los aceites con recetas egipcias. Continuaron empleando el kohl y la alheña para producir color rojo en las mejillas. Lucían cabelleras trenzadas cubiertas con velo o túnica.
Mesopotamia. Abarcaban las comarcas situadas en las cuencas fluviales del Tigris y el Eúfrates. Un país donde la moda y el uso del peinado llegaron a tener una importancia fuera de lo común. Los hombres se rizaban la barba y el cabello, dándoles geométricos tirabuzones en sus extremos. La abundancia de pelo en ellos significaba fuerza y valor. Teñían las cejas de negro y la cara de colorete y espolvoreaban con oro en polvo el pelo y la barba. Las mujeres llevaban el pelo suelto y rizado sobre los hombros utilizando el lapislázuli en los ojos.
Roma Adquirieron pronto las costumbres reformadas de Egipto y Grecia. Empezaron a funcionar los baños públicos, donde se tomaban los baños por inmersión de agua corriente. La mujer de la época (llamada patricia) dedicaba largas horas a sus cuidados en baños, termas, masajes y peinados, los cuales eran muy laboriosas. Se ayudaban de las esclavas que eran las que realizaban los trabajos de peluquería, maquillaje, masaje, cuidados de los dientes, incluso elaboraban adornos y pestañas tejiéndolas con seda o pelo natural. El cabello lo teñían de rubio. El tinte lo realizaban por medio de largas exposiciones al sol untando al cabello con preparados especiales. La piel era blanquecina, los ojos y las cejas llevaban kohl y los párpados brillantes marcados en antimonio*, en turquesa los labios y las mejillas en rojo vivo. *Antimonio: Semimetal escaso en la corteza terrestre. Se encuentra nativo o en forma de sulfuro. Es duro, quebradizo y de color blanco azulado o en forma de sulfuro, aunque algunas variedades son oscuras o casi negras. Fue utilizado como cosmético.
BIZANCIO. Cuidaban el cutis sometiéndolo a verdaderos tratamientos de belleza, y utilizaban cosméticos producidos con grasas de animales mezclados con mirra. Utilizaban compresas calientes para abrir los poros aplicando el cosmético, posteriormente, sin retirarlo, se aplicaba un barro hasta que se secaba. Resaltaba la blancura de la tez destacando exageradamente el rojo en los labios y la forma de perfilar los ojos era muy similar la actual.
ARABIA La cultura árabe era una gran desconocida por el continente europeo, aunque en la Edad Media tendría una gran influencia en las costumbres. La mujer recluida en el harén dedicaba largas horas al embellecimiento. Como medida para seducir al hombre, cuidaban su cuerpo con baños perfumados, masajes y aceites. La mujer tapaba la cara con un velo y el pelo con sedas y se adornaba con piedras preciosas. Se maquillaban la cara y las manos, usaban coloretes, y en los ojos aplicaban kohl para agrandarlos. Eran de uso corriente y continuo hasta nuestros días.
EDAD MEDIA El cuidado personal llegó a ser indigno y ofensivo. La mujer permanecía recluida en castillos y tapaban la cabeza con tocados en señal de sumisión. Transcurrido algún tiempo volvieron a interesarse por la cosmética, debido en gran parte a la influencia árabe. Destacaron los grandes trenzados en el pelo que, a veces, más que un peinado llegaron a ser verdaderas obras de arte.
RENACIMIENTO Es el resurgir de una época. Se cambiaron los peinados vestidos, adornos, cosméticos. La cosmética se benefició de la alquimia, que obtuvo un desarrollo considerable. Utilizaban gran cantidad de perfumes para paliar el mal olor, ya que se mantenía la poca higiene. La mujer se teñía el pelo de rubio que hacía verdadero furor. Se emplearon múltiples recetas para buscar ese rubio veneciano. Los tocados se llevaban excesivamente adornados; la frente se depilaba logrando grandes dimensiones, las cejas se dejaban muy finas y arqueadas o ligeramente redondeadas y en algunos casos desaparecían. En los ojos, aplicaban kohl y se daban colorete en rojo (granadina)
SIGLO XVII Se consolidó en ese siglo la edad de oro de la cosmética, creando la nueva moda de la ropa. A finales del siglo XVII los hombres comenzaron a usar pelucas desapareciendo los polvos de la cara. Estas características perduraron en el siglo XVIII Las mujeres utilizaban postizos de gran tamaño aumentados por tocados muy grandes. Se daba importancia a los rizos y tirabuzones. La higiene corporal continuaba en el olvido, por lo que se usaban cantidades de perfumes para combatir el mal olor. Se pone de moda la extravagancia y la exageración propuesta por la corte, que a veces resultaba grotesca. Existía una obsesión por el maquillaje y los perfumes, no así por las cremas de belleza. El hombre se maquilla tanto como la mujer, presentando un aspecto afeminado. La mujer se aplicaba una pintura dando a la cara una blancura excelente, empolvándose con polvo de arroz o de harina, y se perfilaban las cejas, ojos delineados en negro en el párpado aplicaban azul o verde, rojo oscuro en los labios dibujados en forma de corazón. Los lunares tuvieron su importancia. Eran considerados estéticos, a veces se los pintaban o los hacían de terciopelo
SIGLO XIX La hegemonía de la belleza la siguió marcando Francia. La moda ya no la imponía la Corte, sino la burguesía. Apareció un nuevo concepto de belleza femenina. Había una tremenda obsesión por aparecer enferma., alcanzándose límites insospechados por conseguir una tez pálida o blanquecina. Se llegó a poner de moda ingerir vinagre y limones para parecer más enfermos; las orejas se marcaban e azul, las mejillas se empolvaban de rosa pálido y los labios en un color carmesí. En la última década destacó un peluquero de París, llamado Marcel, que inventó un nuevo sistema de ondulación que lo hizo famoso en todo el mundo y se extendió hasta bien entrado el siglo actual.
SIGLO XX Nace una nueva mujer que estiliza su cuerpo, empieza a liberarse y participa en el mundo laboral y deportivo. La industria cosmética sufre una eclosión, ofreciendo un gran abanico de posibilidades en productos de peluquería y cosmética. Surgen distintas décadas y van a marcar modas por fenómenos sociales: los medios de comunicación, el cine, la TV, la publicidad. Estos medios idealizan un prototipo de mujer con fines publicitarios que acaban marcando una moda en una determinada época.
Los años 20-30 Son conocidos como los años locos. Y tenemos el tipo de Marlene Dietrich o Greta Grabo. Sus cortes “garçon” muy pronunciados y las ondas al agua rematadas en media melena. El maquillaje es fuerte, el cutis en claro, los ojos maquillados en negro, el colorete en redondo y pronunciado, los labios rojos.
Años 40 y 50 Aparecen melenas tipo Gilda. Los fondos de maquillaje son claros, los ojos bastantes exagerados, las cejas muy depiladas dibujándolas hacia las sienes, los labios en rojo haciendo la forma de asco, es decir, sobrepasando las comisuras del labio.
Años 60-70. Denominados la Década Prodigiosa, los ojos se aplican con un delineante (eyes – liner), las cejas finas, los párpados en tonos azules y los labios perfilados en rojo oscuro, los cabellos en media melena. Un claro exponente de esta época fue Marilyn Monroe. Se pone de moda la minifalda creada por Mary Grant.
Los años 80 – 90 Predomina una desorientación en los modos de vestir, la peluca y el maquillaje. Exponente de esta época puede ser Madonna. En la ropa se estila hacia el sport. Grandes modistas se pasan al prêt à porter. Los vaqueros se imponen de una manera abrumadora. El peinado se busca fácil, que sea manejable y rápido de hacer, como el moldeado. El maquillaje va poco
cargado buscando naturalidad y se opta por un determinado maquillaje dependiendo de la ocasión. No predomina ningún color especial de temporadas, debido a la gran afluencia de modas.