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* ± 7 & " -8":4 -07&% $0 0, */( and baking in par ticular, so when I was told that I could no longer eat wheat in any form, I was taken aback. And the diet sheet I was given seemed calculated to bring on severe depression. Torn between outrage and laughter, I decided that if life had handed me a lemon, I was going to fight back. I’d cook it. As anyone who is new to cooking without wheat or gluten soon discovers, it was a bit like exploring a foreign cuisine and using unfamiliar ingredients. However, being a food writer, I’m used to developing recipes, so I did have an advantage right out of the starting gate. Flours made from brown rice, quinoa, teff, chestnuts, almonds, and flax began to fill my freezer. Cakes, cookies, and tarts were no problem at all, and in fact often surpassed the originals made with wheat flour. Gratifyingly, foodie friends and associates—knowledgeable cooks with critical palates—all chorused the same refrain: “Jackie, this is better than the wheat version. And lighter. Can I have the recipe?” Bread was another matter, at least in the early days. Gluten-free flours lack structure: they don’t interact with leavening to create a light, airy loaf. The gluten-free bread one could buy was appalling, so I kept trying and finally hit upon the idea of returning to the small, round hearth breads of old. They have a crisp crust that contrasts with the soft interior, and being made with whole grains in true artisan style, they’re healthful as well as delicious. They are also very quick to stir together. Day-to-day cooking doesn’t need all that much tweaking to make it gluten-free. After all, it’s just as easy to thicken a comforting stew with rice flour or cornstarch as it is with all-purpose flour, and sautéed chicken breast tastes much better when coated with a mixture of ground hazelnuts and Parmesan than it ever did covered
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in stale boxed bread crumbs. I’ve included a cross-section of recipes for everyday cooking and weekend entertaining that everyone at the table can relish, whether they’re gluten-sensitive or not. Cooking necessarily involves buying ingredients, and gluten-sensitive shoppers do have to become hawk-eyed label checkers. Wheat can turn up in the most unexpected places, like soy sauce, so you’ll find a buyer’s guide on page 4. Be aware that “wheat free” doesn’t necessarily mean gluten-free. Happily, new labeling laws now coming into effect are making gluten-free shopping easier every day, and some chains, like Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s, offer pamphlets listing literally hundreds of gluten-free groceries, from corn spaghetti to Japanese tamari sauce. There is a world beyond wheat, and a very rewarding one at that. I have thoroughly enjoyed creating these recipes, and I hope that you—and your family and friends—will enjoy them too.
dURNa NY YR_Tf cR_`b` PRYVNP QV`RN`R A wheat allergy and celiac disease are not the same thing. When a person has a wheat allergy, his or her immune system has an abnormal reaction to the proteins in wheat. Other major food allergens include eggs, corn, fish and shellfish, milk, peanuts, soy, and tree nuts. When someone with celiac disease eats food containing gluten, part of the protein found in wheat, barley, and rye, it triggers an immune-system attack on the lining of the small intestine. The resultant damage, which prevents the body from absorbing nutrients properly, can lead to diarrhea, fatigue, nausea and weight loss, and of course, malnutrition. Many health professionals believe that untreated celiac disease—which often has no symptoms—can lead to osteoporosis, anemia, infertility, and cancer. A related condition, dermatitis herpetiformis, causes a distinctive weepy, itchy rash that frequently appears on the hands, behind the knees, and inside the elbows. Unfortunately, a dermatologist will rarely suggest that it might be caused by something you ate.
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Up until quite recently, it took an average of eleven years to get a correct diagnosis for celiac disease, partly because symptoms vary so much among individuals, and because it was thought to be a childhood ailment rarely seen in America. That point of view is changing. It is now estimated that celiac disease affects 0.5 percent to 1 percent of the U.S. population, or between 1.5 million to 3 million Americans. (In Finland, it’s 2 percent of the population; in Italy, 1.2 percent and in northern Ireland, .09 percent.) Diagnosis is often difficult, as the symptoms can mimic other conditions such as Crohn’s disease, or be ascribed to irritable bowel syndrome. Blood tests can reveal celiac-related antibodies, but an intestinal biopsy is usually needed. Celiac disease is hereditary, though not all children of a parent with the disease will test positive. As with a food allergy, there is no cure other than avoiding the offending substance, at least so far. Still, this beats taking drugs with unknown long-term side effects. Although those of us with a wheat allergy or celiac disease must be vigilant about what we buy and eat, we don’t have to forgo favorites like pasta, bread, and cake. We can still eat well and entertain family and friends at the table, perhaps even better and more healthfully than ever before. Dining out also requires caution. Generous friends and relations who want to cook for you but are uncertain about the, um, gustatory limitations are no problem—just give them a copy of this book! Fast-food chains are generally offlimits, as the majority of their offerings involve wheat in one form or another. In any case, the food tends to arrive in those kitchens prepacked, and the staff has no idea what’s actually in it. But here too, government regulations that demand full disclosure are starting to come into effect. All those people diagnosed with celiac disease, plus millions of others with various food allergies, do have a certain amount of clout. As celiac disease becomes better known among the general public, even chains are starting to offer gluten-free specials. You’ll find that the waiters in established restaurants are generally most helpful if you ask their advice about the menu, explaining with regret that you can’t eat anything containing wheat flour in the
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sauce (or dusted on before browning), bread crumbs, croutons, or pasta. Chefs are nurturing people by nature, and will usually make a big effort to take care of you—and gain a happy repeat customer.
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8)&/ :06 -00, #& :0/% 8 )& "5 there’s a whole cornucopia of gluten-free grains, seeds, and nuts out there that have been cultivated since the dawn of civilization. Rice sustains more than half of the world’s population, and along with corn is the most obvious and useful alternative to wheat. In addition, there’s South American amaranth and quinoa, East African teff, Asian millet (revered by the ancient Chinese as one of their Five Sacred Grains and the most widely used grain in India today), and northern European buckwheat, which isn’t wheat at all but botanically related to rhubarb. Nuts such as walnuts, almonds, pecans, and chestnuts make wonderful flour, as do dried beans. Even cocoa can be utilized as a form of flour. I can’t claim that this is a comprehensive list, but it does include those ingredients most readily available in the United States. Some grains are best when used whole in pilafs, others shine when ground into flour and used for baking, and most are good both ways. Nearly all of them are utilized as whole-grain flours, with all their nutrients intact, and provide healthful complex carbohydrates and fiber as well as good flavors. As a general rule, it’s best to buy nuts and gluten-free flours in small quantities and store them in the freezer or refrigerator. Being completely natural, they contain no preservatives or other dubious additions. It’s advisable to buy gluten-free flours that have been prepackaged in a dedicated facility. Open bins in natural foods stores can be cross-contaminated by other customers using a scoop from a neighboring bin containing, say, whole wheat flour.
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In your own kitchen, keep any gluten-containing products strictly segregated, and don’t share hard-to-clean items like a toaster, or let anyone put gluten-free bread or crackers on the same platter with those made from wheat. Even the tiny amount of gluten present in a few bread crumbs can cause trouble for celiacs. You can grind your own flours from gluten-free whole grains, but it may be more trouble than it’s worth. I have an electronic grain mill, which makes more noise than the Concorde taking off. It used to send my late-lamented cat flying from the kitchen with her fur standing on end. It does a good job, but wafts flour over every surface. An electric coffee mill reserved for grinding things other than coffee is useful for reducing small quantities of flaxeeds or nuts to flour. A food processor simply whirls the former about, and tends to make nut paste from the latter unless you add rice flour or sugar. I don’t blend my own supposedly allpurpose flour mix, as most breads, cookies, tart shells, and cakes require different ratios of gluten-free flours to be at their best. NYZ\[Q ZRNY SY\b_ Ground from whole almonds with the bran intact, this mellow, off-white flour is invaluable for cakes and cookies. It is available ready ground, but unless you can find a source with a high turnover—to ensure freshness—and reasonable prices (Trader Joe’s is a good source), it’s best to grind your own. An electric coffee mill reserved for grinding items other than coffee works pretty well. If you use a food processor, combining whole almonds with a little rice flour or sugar, subtracted from the other ingredients listed in a recipe, helps to prevent turning the nuts into paste by mistake. Incidentally, 1 cup of whole almonds weighs 4 ounces. One cup of ready-ground almond meal weighs approximately 3 ounces. NZN_N[aU A tiny round grain known as the “mother grain” in the Inca empire, Amaranthus caudatus is not a true cereal, although it’s used like one. High in protein, calcium, iron, and fiber, the whole grains cook in 15 minutes or less.
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N__\d_\\a `aN_PU Derived from the rhizomes of various tropical plants and generally used in North America as a thickener, this cornstarch-like product gives a glossy finish to sauces. Be cautious about utilizing it in cookie doughs, as too much will turn the baked cookies into cement. O_\d[ _VPR SY\b_ dUVaR _VPR SY\b_ The all-purpose workhorse of the gluten-free kitchen, flour milled from brown rice is mellow in flavor, nutritious, and generally invaluable. White rice flour (not to be confused with Asian rice flour, a silky powder) is milled from hulled rice. When used in baking, both brown rice flour and white rice flour are usually combined with cornstarch, potato starch, or tapioca starch to counteract their slightly coarse texture. ObPXdURNa ObPXdURNa SY\b_ Not wheat at all but a relative of rhubarb (the name is derived from the Dutch bockweit, as these triangular seeds were thought to resemble beech nuts), buckwheat is a hardy plant that manages to flourish in poor soils and inhospitable climates. Famously used in Russian blini (pancakes) and Japanese soba noodles, buckwheat flour is excellent in rustic flatbreads. The whole grains or groats are made into kasha, a dish that corresponds to an Arabic pilaf or an Italian risotto. PUR`a[ba` PUR`a[ba SY\b_ The European chestnut, Castanea sativa, contains more starch and far less oil than any other tree nut, and makes a sweet-tasting flour. Once used by poor peasants in rural Italy for making hearth breads and polenta, it’s more of a luxury food today. Whole chestnuts can serve as a starchy vegetable or a stuffing ingredient, or
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be turned into delicious desserts. They are available fresh, canned, frozen, vacuumpacked, and candied. For more information on chestnuts, see page 102. PUVPX]RN` PUVPX]RN SY\b_ Ground from dried chickpeas, or garbanzo beans as they are also known, chickpea flour has a distinctive but pleasant flavor, making it a good candidate for breads but not cakes. Universally popular Middle Eastern dishes like hummus and falafel are based on chickpeas, and the cuisine of India would be poorer without them. Garfava flour is a proprietary blend of garbanzo and fava bean flour. PU\P\YNaR Chocolate is derived from the seeds of cacao trees cultivated mainly in Latin America, West Africa, Indonesia, Malaysia, and the Caribbean. Depending on where they’re grown, cacao beans, like coffee beans, have distinct flavor characteristics: fruity, floral, and so on. After harvesting, the beans undergo fermentation, when they start to develop their unique flavors, and are then dried and graded. Chocolate manufacturers roast and hull the beans to free the meat, or nibs. These nibs are ground into chocolate liquor, a thick, nonalcoholic paste of cacao butter, a form of vegetable fat, and vegetable solids. Unsweetened chocolate is essentially solidified chocolate liquor with a high percentage of cacao butter. Bittersweet, semisweet, and milk chocolate contain increasing amounts of sugar, so the percentage of cacao butter decreases accordingly. White chocolate is cacao butter (often mixed with some other, cheaper fat) mixed with lots of sugar, milk solids, and vanilla, and tastes of dried milk powder. Dark chocolate and chocolate chips with at least 60 percent cacao butter are the best choice for baking—and eating—for their rich flavor and silky smoothness. Ghirardelli’s 60 percent dark chocolate is an excellent buy, the thin bars are easy to chop and melt, and both the chocolate and Ghirardelli’s 60 percent chocolate chips give first-rate results in baking.
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P\P\N ]\dQR_ Cocoa powder is made when chocolate liquor is pressed to extract about three-quarters of its cacao butter. (The correct spelling got mangled years ago.) The remaining solids are made into unsweetened cocoa powder, either natural or Dutch-processed. Natural unsweetened cocoa powder gives a deep, intense chocolate flavor to baked goods, and is the form I prefer. Good brands include Hershey’s, Ghirardelli, and Scharffen Berger. Dutch-processed unsweetened cocoa is treated with an alkali to neutralize its natural acidity, has a more delicate flavor, and dissolves easily in liquids. Valrhona and Droste are two excellent brands. Both natural and Dutch-processed cocoa make good gluten-free baking ingredients. P\_ [ P\_[ZRNY P\_ [`aN_PU Corn, more often known outside the United States as maize, is actually a kind of grass with huge seed heads, or cobs. Fresh sweet corn in season is a treat; popcorn is a perennial favorite as a snack; cornmeal remains an integral part of American cooking in the form of corn bread, grits, and tortillas; and Italian polenta has now become popular. Eating corn with beans creates a complementary mix of amino acids that raises the protein value. If possible, avoid labels that say “degerminated” when buying corn products; you want the whole grain. When used as a thickener for sauces, silky white cornstarch gives a glossy finish. Particularly useful in baking, it helps to smooth out the slightly coarse texture of many gluten-free flours, but like its fellow starches, has little or no nutritional value. Cornstarch is generally interchangeable with potato starch and Asian rice flour/sweet white rice flour in baking. SYNe`RRQ` SYNeZRNY According to nutritionists, flaxseeds are one of most nutritious plant foods on the planet. They contain more heart-healthy omega-3 oil than fish and more fiber than
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oats, and have a pleasantly nutty, grassy flavor. You can grind your own using an electric coffee mill (a food processor just spins them around, as the outer coating is extremely hard), or buy preground flaxmeal and store it in the freezer. Flaxmeal can lend suppleness as well as goodness to gluten-free breads, as it’s high in flax oil. However, as always, consult your physician and nutritionist for their views about the nutritional and medical value of any so-called super food. See page 142 for more information about flaxseeds. TN_ON[g\ SY\b_ See Chickpea Flour. TN_SNcN SY\b_ See Chickpea Flour. YR[aVY` YR[aVY SY\b_ One of the few dried pulses that don’t have to be soaked before cooking, brown, green and black lentils cook in about 35 minutes and make a tasty side dish. The little red ones are best for soup, as they quickly disintegrate. Various kinds of lentil flour are much used in India for making poppadums, those crispy wafers that complement curries so well. (Imported poppadums are available, but read the label to make sure they are gluten-free.) Lentil flour is good in flatbreads, and lentil flour “riso” makes a welcome addition to hearty soups. ZN[V\P SY\b_ See Tapioca Starch.
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ZVYYRa ZVYYRa SY\b_ One of the first grains to be cultivated by man, perhaps 12,000 years ago, nutritious millet contains almost 15 percent protein. The leading staple grain in India, it is also popular in China, South America, Russia, and the Himalayas. It has a mellow, nutty flavor and cooks in just 15 minutes, but few people in North America are familiar with it. Much too good to reserve for birdseed, millet makes an excellent pilaf or grain salad, especially when toasted before cooking to bring out its delicate flavor. It also makes a good hot breakfast cereal with raisins and honey. Use the flour mixed with other gluten-free flours in breads and muffins. Z\[aV[N Z\[aV[N SY\b_ Developed in Montana from Indian lovegrass, a hardy native plant that thrives in poor soils, this high protein grain yields good flour for gluten-free baking. [ba` [ba SY\b_` A storehouse of vitamins, minerals, and fiber as well as being good to eat at any time, almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, and walnuts make luxurious gluten-free flours. True, most nuts are also high in oil, but it’s the heart-healthy, mono- or polyunsaturated kind. When nuts are ground, the flavorful oil content can take the place of butter in baking; just as the starchy part stands in for flour. Nutrient-rich peanuts are not true nuts but legumes. \Na` \Na SY\b_ \NaZRNY Oats do not contain gluten, despite long-standing claims to the contrary. Oats, however, are particularly subject to cross-contamination by other grains in the field, or during the milling and packing process in a plant that also handles other grains. In a recent newsletter published by the Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University, readers were advised that multiple studies in Europe and the United States show
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that the majority of people with celiac disease tolerate oats. Reliably gluten-free oats are available by mail order from the Gluten-Free Oats Company in Powell, Wyoming, and Cream Hill Estates in La Salle, Quebec (see pages 211–12). Aside from the fact that oatmeal tastes delicious, scientific studies have shown that oats contain a special form of fiber, beta-glucan, found to be effective in lowering LDL cholesterol. ]\aNa\ SY\b_ This is a heavy, strongly flavored flour sometimes added to bread in small amounts. Don’t confuse it with potato starch, which is far more useful. ]\aNa\ `aN_PU A silky white starch with a texture like talcum powder that’s useful as a thickener, potato starch is interchangeable with cornstarch and Asian rice flour/sweet white rice flour for smoothing out the slightly coarse texture of whole-grain brown rice flour. ^bV[\N ^bV[\N SYNXR` ^bV[\N SY\b_ Along with amaranth, high-protein quinoa helped to sustain the vast Inca empire before the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, who banned its cultivation for religious and political reasons. Botanically related to Swiss chard and beets, the whole grains make excellent pilafs and hearty salads; the flour—used in conjunction with other gluten-free flours—is good in breads. Quinoa flakes make a mellow, highprotein addition to homemade muesli, stuffings, and meat loaves, and can be cooked like oatmeal. Most quinoa must be rinsed before cooking to remove the residue of bitter saponins, the plant’s defense against insects. _VPR Rice, Oryza sativa, sustains more than half of the world’s population. There are hundreds of varieties, but all of them fall into two main camps: Indica rice, which is dry
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and separate, and Vaponica rice, which sticks together. The former is fluffier when cooked (think of pilaf); the latter contains more starch and is generally gummier and creamier (think of creamy risotto or rice pudding.) Whole, or brown, rice contains complex carbohydrates, thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, phosphorus, iron, potassium, and fiber. White rice is refined, with the germ and bran removed. In the United States, most refined white rice found on grocery shelves is enriched with at least some of the nutrients lost during processing, but not the fiber. Converted rice is parboiled before refining, a process that forces some of the B vitamins into the endosperm so they are not lost when the bran is polished off, but it’s still not as healthful as brown rice. Some round-grain rice varieties, like Italian Arborio and Spanish Calasparra, are especially good for absorbing flavorful broths during cooking while simultaneously retaining their shape. All kinds of rice are gluten-free, from Uncle Ben’s to the exotic ones like Bhutanese red rice and Japanese black rice. Glutinous rice, spelled with an “i,” is another term for sticky rice. It does not contain gluten. _VPR SY\b_ N`VN[ Not the same product as rice flour milled from brown or white rice, silky white rice starch is interchangeable with cornstarch as a thickener, and as a mixer in gluten-free baking. `\_TUbZ ZVY\ A hardy, gluten-free mild-tasting grain believed to have originated in Africa, sorghum can be utilized like oatmeal, and is available as flour. `\f SY\b_ Like most bean flours, yellow soy flour has a pronounced flavor. A cheap source of protein, it is used extensively in the food industry in everything from frozen desserts to meat loaf. A small amount can be used in gluten-free breads, but it makes them dense.
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`dRRa _VPR SY\b_ `aN_PU Milled from glutinous or sticky white rice, this neutral-tasting (not sweet) starch has a slightly sticky quality that can be handy for baking when used in combination with other gluten-free flours, as it helps to retain moisture. aN]V\PN `aN_PU A favorite for bread baking when combined with other gluten-free flours, tapioca starch lends a chewy, slightly elastic quality. Also known as cassava or manioc and derived from a root, the whole “pearls” and granulated tapioca can be made into a milk-based pudding. aRSS SY\b_ Tiny, highly nutritious teff, the staple grain of Ethiopia and Eritrea, is now cultivated successfully in the United States. Available as ivory or brownish flour at some natural foods stores and by mail order, teff flour has a sweet, molasseslike flavor and makes exceptional gluten-free brownies, cookies, and gingerbread. It can also be cooked like porridge for breakfast. A form of millet, it contains over twice the iron of other grains and twenty times the calcium: one cup of cooked teff contains more calcium (387 mg) than a cup of milk. dVYQ _VPR This is not a true rice at all, but the long, dark brown, slightly smoky-flavored seed of an aquatic grass indigenous to the Great Lakes region. A luxury food that is usually blended with other types of rice because of its high price and assertive though delicious flavor, wild rice has twice the protein and fiber of brown rice, but not as much iron and calcium.
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eN[aUN[ TbZ Derived from corn sugar, this white powder looks a lot like baking powder and is used in similar amounts, so an admittedly rather costly 8-ounce bag goes a long way. Invaluable in gluten-free bread baking, it provides elasticity and helps to prevent dryness and crumbling. A very small quantity also benefits shortcrust pastry and some cakes and cookies, which can otherwise be too fragile. It can be found in natural foods stores, including Whole Foods, some supermarkets, and on the Web via sources such as Bob’s Red Mill, and it keeps at room temperature.
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Xh[Wa\W ij (*7&/ 5)& 13& 7" -&/$& 0' # 09&% $&3& " - 4 toast, bagels, and doughnuts on the average American morning menu, going wheat-free sounds difficult, if not impossible. In fact, breakfast bars and muffins made with alternative grains are delicious, not to mention good for your health. Rice Flour English Muffins (page 135) freeze well and can be thawed and toasted whenever you please; toasty homemade muesli is another option. A weekend brunch, when there’s time to linger, can include indulgences like pancakes, warm apple crumble, or an almond flour coffee cake like Grandma never made.
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:0 6 $ " / &/+0: 5)*4 vegetarian frittata hot, warm, or cold for lunch or supper, or as an appetizer with a glass of wine. It’s also perfect for a potluck party: it travels well. You’ll need leftover potatoes to make this dish—boiled or baked work equally well—or you can stir in pecans for a crunchy contrast. Almost any cheese, including Cheddar or crumbled feta, works well.
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l[][jWXb[i WdZ ]hW_di " -- 7&(& 5" #-& 4 " /% 1 6- 4& 4—from asparagus to zucchini—are gluten-free, but grains are another matter. For the gluten-sensitive, wheat, barley, and rye must be avoided like the Titanic with another chance. Still, other interesting choices vie for the cook’s attention, and the wider the selection of vegetables and whole grains you use, the better for everybody’s general health. Dried beans, lentils, corn, and rice are familiar staples, but quinoa and millet can make fans out of the most suspicious diner when offered as a pilaf or grain salad.
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5)*4 *4 " 5" 4 5 : appetizer or side dish that cooks in 5 minutes. Long, slender purple or lavender Japanese eggplants can be substituted; like zucchini, their skins are so tender that they don’t need peeling. Either one makes first-rate finger food with a glass of wine.
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6/- *, & %3*&% #& " /4 - &/ 5 *- 4 don’t need soaking before you cook them. For my money, green lentils have by far the best texture; brown ones can be floury when cooked, and tiny red lentils turn to mush the moment your back is turned (they’re good in soup, though). As with cooked quinoa, any leftovers can be turned into an excellent grain salad by adding a splash of wine vinegar and more olive oil.
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5)*4 3&(*0/ " - */- " /% 7" 3*& 5 : of paella makes an intriguing change from the more familiar Barcelona version with chicken and seafood. Be sure to use round-grain Spanish or Italian rice here; long-grain white rice turns to mush. The sliced tomatoes on top give it a finished look as well as a fresh taste, and the golden fried potatoes, perhaps surprisingly, add great texture and flavor. Old Spanish recipes start with about half a pound of fresh lard; I use olive oil instead. An inexpensive, two-handled, 16-cup aluminum paella pan about 14 inches across adds to the presentation (and makes a useful all-purpose roasting pan), but dividing the ingredients between two large skillets also works.
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8& "-5):"/$*&/530."/4'"5 5&/&% chickens on bread soaked in wine and hydromel, a kind of liquor made with fermented honey. The birds gorged themselves silly, attained an enormous weight, and were reputed to taste exquisite. Not having any chickens or mead with which to practice, I can’t vouch for the Roman method, but I can recommend enhancing a regular chicken’s size and flavor by stuffing it under the skin. To make the savory stuffing, you will need bread crumbs made from day-old Quick White Rice Flour Flatbread (page 133).
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\`a_VPU Ob_TR_` dVaU _RQ dV[R `NbPR 50%": ± 4 '" 3.&% 04 5 3*$) 130% 6 $& 4 a flavorful, juicy red meat, similar in taste and texture to beef, but 90 percent fat-free, which makes it lower in cholesterol and calories than all other poultry and meats, including venison. And there’s no such thing as Angry Ostrich Disease. Like other very lean meats, it’s best cooked briefly. Dusting the patties with rice flour helps the browning process and gives a good surface texture. Ground ostrich meat is available frozen from upscale food markets such as Whole Foods.
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8 )&/ # 0/&% 530 6 5 " 3& spread out flat and broiled, skin side up to protect the tender flesh, they cook to a turn in just 5 minutes. As one whole butterflied trout covers an entire dinner plate, serve with homemade crusty rice flour bread and have a salad or green vegetable as a separate course.
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Xh[WZi %& 7&-01*/( & " 4 : 3&$*1&4 '03 " 3 5 *4 " / 4 5 : - & -0"7 & 4 using gluten-free flours was a challenge, but a rewarding one. Technically, the recipes that follow are all batter breads: the dough is mixed rather than kneaded, and all but one are raised with baking powder, not yeast. This means you can produce an aromatic, crusty loaf with a light, elastic crumb in about 30 minutes, even if you’ve never baked a loaf of bread in your life. Based on the hearth breads of old, most of these loaves are quite small and relatively low, because gluten-free flours don’t form the weblike, airy structure that characterizes bread made with milled wheat and yeast. But what they lack in size they make up for in flavor, texture, and nutrition. Xanthan gum, a white powder derived from corn syrup, helps to promote a springy texture and retain moisture. True, these preservative-free breads don’t keep (neither do baguettes from a French bakery), but they freeze well.
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5 ) * 4 . & - - 0 8 5 " 4 5 * / ( 7 & 3 4 "5 * - & 8 ) 0 - & (3 " */ bread is perfect with cheese or with butter and jam for breakfast. Small, round, and crusty, like old-fashioned hearth breads, these loaves can be sliced across or split and quartered for sandwiches.
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- *, & *5 4 8 )0-& ( 3 " */ 5 8 */ on page 131, this low, round loaf has a hundred uses, including pizza, melba toast, croutons, and—most important—bread crumbs. These are more valuable than gold in the wheat-free kitchen for breading, topping gratins, and making stuffings. This loaf is very good sliced and toasted under a broiler (don’t share the family toaster if it’s ever used for wheat products). The biscotti-shaped slices are marvelous for dipping in soft-boiled eggs.
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5)& 4& -0/( 5)*/ $3*41 $ 364 5&% baguettes have a light and chewy interior thanks to beaten egg whites in the dough. Unusually, no xanthan gum is needed. The unbaked dough is soft and needs support; to form these long loaves you will need a double baguette pan, which looks like an 18-inch-long drainpipe sliced in half vertically and stuck together to make a W. They can be found in most kitchenware shops. For super sandwiches, split the baguettes, spread with grainy Dijon mustard, and fill with Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa (page 89) and mixed baby greens.
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40 $36/$) : " /% %&-&$ 5" #-& that you can make cookies with it, this piecrust provides just the right contrast for the tender fruit filling. As regular cornmeal is on the coarse side, I whirl it in a food processor for 2 minutes to get a finer texture. To make cornmeal cookies, roll the dough 1 ⁄4 inch thick, and cut them out with a 21 ⁄2-inch cutter. Brush the cookies with cream or milk, and sprinkle with sugar before baking at 350°F until golden brown at the edges, about 15 minutes.
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Celiac Disease Foundation 13251 Ventura Boulevard, Suite 1 Studio City, CA 91604 Telephone: 818.990.2354 e-mail: [email protected] www.celiac.org Celiac Sprue Association (CSA/USA) P.O. Box 31700 Omaha, NE 68131 Telephone: 877.CSA.4CSA e-mail: [email protected] www.csaceliacs.org Gluten Intolerance Group of North America (GIG) 31214 124th Avenue SE Auburn, WA 98092-3667 Telephone: 253.833.6655 e-mail: [email protected] www.gluten.net Canadian Celiac Association 5170 Dixie Road, Suite 204 Mississauga, ON L4W 1E3
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Telephone: 800.363.7296 www.celiac.ca
Celiac Disease: A Hidden Epidemic, by Peter H. R. Green, M.D., Director of the Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University and Rory Jones (Collins, 2006). The first authoritative guide on diagnosis, treatment, and management of celiac disease. Essential reading for both patients and the medical community, this is a readable guide to understanding and coping with a serious condition that has been little known until now. Gluten-Free Living P.O. Box 375 Maple Shade, NJ 08052 Telephone: 800.324.8781 www.glutenfreeliving.com A national, full-color magazine with reliable, well-researched information and articles relating to living well with celiac disease. The Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University 212.305.5590 http://www.celiacdiseasecenter.columbia.edu The Celiac Center at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center 617.667.1272 www.bidmc.harvard.edu The University of Maryland Center for Celiac Research 410.328.6749 or 800.492.5538 http://celiaccenter.org The University of Chicago Celiac Disease Center 773.702.7593 www.celiacdisease.net
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Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods 5000 SE International Way Milwaukie, OR 97222 Telephone: 800.349.2173 www.bobsredmill.com Cream Hill Estates 9633 rue Clément H8R 4B4 La Salle, Quebec, Canada (gluten-free oats) Telephone: 866.727.3628 www.creamhillestates.com e-mail: [email protected] Empire Chestnut Company 3276 Empire Road SW Carrollton, OH 44615-9515 www.empirechestnut.com Ener- G Foods 5960 First Avenue South P.O. Box 84487 Seattle, WA 98124-5787
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www.ener-g.com Telephone: 800.331.5222 e-mail: [email protected] Gluten-Free Oats Company 578 Lane 9 Powell, WY 82435 Telephone: 307.754.2058 www.glutenfreeoats.com King Arthur Flour Company The Baker’s Store 135 Route 5 South Norwich, VT 05055 Telephone: 800.827.6836 www.kingarthurflour.com The Teff Company Telephone toll-free: 888.822.2221 e-mail: [email protected] www.teffco.com
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V[QRe N Almond(s) almond flour, about, 8 almond meal, about, 8 Amaretto Cake, 200 Carrot-Ginger Cake, 203 Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Jam Sandwich Cookies, 156–57 and Lemon Cake, 198–99 Nut Crumb Crust, 176 -Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33 -Raspberry Tart, 174 Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Amaranth, about, 8 Amaretto Cake, 200 Appetizers and first courses Chicken and Chestnut Soup, 99–100 Corn Fritters, 49 Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43 Parmesan Puffs, 40–41 Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Zucchini Fritters, 50 Apple(s) Crumble, Spiced, 28–29
Pie with a Rich Cornmeal Crust, 185–86 Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Arrowroot starch, about, 9 Arugula and Goat Cheese, Rice Fettuccine with, 70 Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and Asparagus, 79–80 Asparagus and Pork, Asian Stick Noodles with, 79–80 Rice Spirals with, 71
O Bacon Millet, and Mushroom Risotto, 56 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Baguettes Flaxseed and Chickpea, Quick, 144 Rice Flour, 138–39 Beans. See Chickpea(s); Lentil(s) Beef Braised Oxtail with Mushrooms, 121–22 Braised Short Ribs with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, 119–20 Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Ragù, 73–74
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Bran, Rice, and Raisin Muffins, 24 Breads, 129–47 Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Cornmeal and Sun-Dried Tomato Loaf, 147 Crumbs, Rice Flour, 134 Flaxmeal Skillet, 143 Goat Cheese Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137 lining baking sheet for, 132 Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Quick Brown Rice Flour Flatbread, 131 Quick Flaxseed and Chickpea Baguette, 144 Quick White Rice Flour Flatbread, 133–34 Rice Bran and Raisin Muffins, 24 Rice Flour Baguettes, 138–39 Rice Flour English Muffins, 135–36 Rice Flour Focaccia, 137 Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145 Breakfast dishes, 19–33 Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Rice Bran and Raisin Muffins, 24 Rice Flour Crêpes, 22 Spiced Apple Crumble, 28–29 Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Yogurt–Rice Flour Pancakes, 21 Brownies, Teff, 158 Buckwheat buckwheat flour, about, 9 Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41 Spaetzle, 81–82 whole (groats), about, 9 Burgers, Ostrich, with Red Wine Sauce, 109
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Cream, –Strawberry Tart, 177 firm, storing, 43 Goat, and Arugula, Rice Fettuccine with, 70 Goat, and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Goat, Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137 Hazelnut and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets, 85–86 Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43 Parmesan Puffs, 40–41 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Ricotta Tart, 180–81 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé, 45–46 Zucchini Fritters, 50 Cherries English Fruitcake, 204–5 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175 Chestnut(s) chestnut flour, about, 9 and Chicken Soup, 99–100 Gateau, Chocolate-Glazed, 194–95 purée, buying, 102 and Sausage Dressing, 105 whole, about, 9–10 whole, buying, 102 whole, peeling, 102 Chicken breasts, grinding at home, 90 breasts, slicing horizontally, 85–86 with Celery and Tarragon, 98 in Chardonnay, 87–88 and Chestnut Soup, 99–100 Cutlets, Hazelnut and Parmesan, 85–86 Ground, Roll with Quinoa, 89–90 Legs, Lemon-Parsley, 96–97
Livers, Risotto with, 60–61 with Mushroom Stuffing, 94–95 and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92 Roast Capon with Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 103–4 Chickpea(s) chickpea flour, about, 10 Creamy Tomato and Egg Curry, 37 and Flaxseed Baguette, Quick, 144 Lentils with, 51 in Middle Eastern dishes, 10 Chocolate about, 10 Cake, Extra-Light, 193 Chip–Peanut Butter Cookies, 151 cocoa powder, about, 11 dark, imported, substitute for, 192 Éclairs, 196–97 -Glazed Chestnut Gateau, 194–95 -Hazelnut Truffle Cake, 191 Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154 Mousse, French, 206 –Pine Nut Meringue Cookies, 152 Teff Brownies, 158 types of, 10 -Walnut Cake, Four-Ingredient, 189–90 Cocoa powder Dutch-processed, about, 11 natural, about, 11 Coffee Cake, Almond-Plum Rice Flour, 32–33 Cookies and bars, 149–65 Almond Jam Sandwich Cookies, 156–57 Chocolate–Pine Nut Meringue Cookies, 152 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26
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Cookies and bars (continued) Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Hazelnut-Raspberry Cookies, 155 Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154 lining baking sheet for, 132 Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 Pecan-Espresso Cookies, 153 Pine Nut Wafers, 165 Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63 Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers, 164 Teff Brownies, 158 Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161 Corn. See also Cornmeal about, 11 Fritters, 49 Macaroni and Cheese, 72 Cornmeal about, 11 and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Flatbread, Yeast-Raised, 145 Piecrust, Rich, 184 and Sun-Dried Tomato Loaf, 147 Cornstarch, about, 11 Cream Cheese–Strawberry Tart, 177 Crêpes, Rice Flour, 22 Crust, Nut Crumb, 176 Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, Quinoa Salad with, 55 Currants English Fruitcake, 204–5 Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 and Hazelnuts, Millet Pilaf with, 57 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175 Rice, and Pine Nuts, Grape Leaf Rolls with, 62–63 Curry, Tomato and Egg, Creamy, 37
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Q Dates, Teff Gingerbread with, 161 Desserts Almond and Lemon Cake, 198–99 Almond Jam Sandwich Cookies, 156–57 Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33 Almond-Raspberry Tart, 174 Amaretto Cake, 200 Apple Pie with a Rich Cornmeal Crust, 185–86 Carrot-Ginger Cake, 203 Chocolate Éclairs, 196–97 Chocolate-Glazed Chestnut Gateau, 194–95 Chocolate-Hazelnut Truffle Cake, 191 Chocolate–Pine Nut Meringue Cookies, 152 English Fruitcake, 204–5 Extra-Light Chocolate Cake, 193 Four-Ingredient Chocolate-Walnut Cake, 189–90 French Chocolate Mousse, 206 Hazelnut-Raspberry Cookies, 155 Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154 Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 Pecan-Espresso Cookies, 153 Pecan Tart, 172 Pine Nut Wafers, 165 Quick Mango Sorbet, 207 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175 Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63 Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers, 164 Ricotta Tart, 180–81 Spiced Apple Crumble, 28–29
Strawberry–Cream Cheese Tart, 177 Teff Brownies, 158 Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161 Walnut–Olive Oil Sponge Cake, 201–2 Dressing, Sausage and Chestnut, 105 Dumplings. See Spaetzle
R Éclairs, Chocolate, 196–97 Egg(s) Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Hard-Boiled, Perfectly Cooked, 38 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé, 45–46 and Tomato Curry, Creamy, 37 English Muffins, Rice Flour, 135–36 Espresso-Pecan Cookies, 153
S Fennel, Rice Pilaf with, 64 Fettuccine, Rice, with Arugula and Goat Cheese, 70 Fig(s) English Fruitcake, 204–5 -Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 Fish and shellfish Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper Sauce, 128 Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124
Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Flaxseed(s) about, 11–12, 142 and Chickpea Baguette, Quick, 144 flaxmeal, buying, 12, 142 Flaxmeal Skillet Bread, 143 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 grinding, for flaxmeal, 12, 142 health benefits from, 11–12, 142 Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41 storing, 12, 142 Flour, gluten-free. See also specific flour types almond, about, 8 Asian rice flour (starch), about, 15 brown rice, about, 9 buckwheat, about, 9 buying and storing, 7 chestnut, about, 9 chickpea, about, 10 garfava, about, 10 grinding your own, 8 lentil, about, 12 millet, about, 13 montina, about, 13 nut, about, 13 oat, about, 13–14 potato, about, 14 quinoa, about, 14 soy, about, 15 sweet rice (starch), about, 16 teff, about, 16 white rice, about, 9
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Focaccia, Rice Flour, 137 Frittata, Spinach and Zucchini, 44 Fritters Corn, 49 Zucchini, 50 Fruitcake, English, 204–5
Gruyère -Onion Tart, 42–43 Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé, 45–46
U T Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Garbanzo flour, about, 10 Garfava flour, about, 10 Gingerbread, Teff, with Dates, 161 Gingerbread Cows, Rice Flour, 162–63 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Gluten-free shopping, 4–5 foods “maybe” permitted, 5–6 foods not permitted, 6 foods permitted, 4–5 Goat Cheese and Arugula, Rice Fettuccine with, 70 Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137 and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Grains. See also Buckwheat; Millet; Quinoa; Rice; Teff amaranth, about, 8 montina/montina flour, about, 13 oats and oat flour, about, 13–14 sorghum (milo), about, 15 Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and Pine Nuts, 62–63 Gratin, Halibut, Tomato, and Caper, with Quinoa, 124 Grocery shopping. See Gluten-free shopping
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Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26 Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124 Ham Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Harissa Sauce, 92 Hazelnut(s) -Chocolate Truffle Cake, 191 and Currants, Millet Pilaf with, 57 and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets, 85–86 -Raspberry Cookies, 155 Zebra Cookies, 154 Herbes de Provence Blend, 101 Honeyed Yogurt, 29
X Kasha (groats), about, 9
Y Lamb, Rack of, with Herbed Crumb Crust, 117–18 Lemon and Almond Cake, 198–99 Lemon-Parsley Chicken Legs, 96–97 Lentil(s) with Chickpeas, 51 lentil flour, about, 12 varieties of, 12 Livers, Chicken, Risotto with, 60–61
Z Macaroni, Corn, and Cheese, 72 Main dishes (grains) Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and Pine Nuts, 62–63 Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Main dishes (meat) Braised Oxtail with Mushrooms, 121–22 Braised Short Ribs with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, 119–20 English Pork Sausage Patties, 115 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Pork Chops and Baked Polenta with Peppers, 113–14 Rack of Lamb with Herbed Crumb Crust, 117–18 Main dishes (pasta) Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and Asparagus, 79–80 Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72 Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74 Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat Cheese, 70 Rice Pappardelle with Mushroom Sauce, 77–78 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71 Main dishes (poultry) Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92 Chicken in Chardonnay, 87–88 Chicken with Celery and Tarragon, 98
Chicken with Mushroom Stuffing, 94–95 Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa, 89–90 Hazelnut and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets, 85–86 Lemon-Parsley Chicken Legs, 96–97 Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109 Roast Capon with Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 103–4 Main dishes (seafood) Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper Sauce, 128 Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124 Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Main dishes (vegetarian) Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72 Creamy Tomato and Egg Curry, 37 Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and Pine Nuts, 62–63 Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat Cheese, 70 Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé, 45–46 Mango Sorbet, Quick, 207 Manioc flour. See Tapioca starch
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Meat. See Beef; Lamb; Pork; Veal Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Meringue Cookies, Chocolate–Pine Nut, 152 Millet millet flour, about, 13 Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Pilaf with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57 serving ideas, 13 Modified food starch, 5 Molasses Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63 Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161 Montina/montina flour, about, 13 Mousse, French Chocolate, 206 Muesli, Toasted Quinoa, 25 Muffins Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Rice Bran and Raisin, 24 Mushroom(s) Braised Oxtail with, 121–22 Chicken in Chardonnay, 87–88 Millet, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Sauce, Rice Pappardelle with, 77–78 Stuffing, Chicken with, 94–95 Mustard and Caper Sauce, 123
[ Noodles, Asian Stick, with Pork and Asparagus, 79–80 Nut(s). See also Almond(s); Chestnut(s); Hazelnut(s); Pecan(s); Walnut(s) buying and storing, 7 ground, for baked goods, 13 health benefits from, 13 nut flours, about, 13
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Pine, –Chocolate Meringue Cookies, 152 Pine, Rice, and Currants, Grape Leaf Rolls with, 62–63 Pine, Wafers, 165
\ Oats and oat flour, about, 13–14 Omelet, Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced, 39 Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43 Orange Peel, Candied, 182–83 Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109 Oxtail, Braised, with Mushrooms, 121–22
] Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Pancakes Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Yogurt–Rice Flour, 21 Pancetta Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Pappardelle, Rice, with Mushroom Sauce, 77–78 Parchment paper, for baking sheets, 132 Parmesan and Hazelnut Chicken Cutlets, 85–86 Puffs, 40–41 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 and Sun-Dried Tomato Soufflé, 45–46 Zucchini Fritters, 50 Pasta, 67–82 Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and Asparagus, 79–80 Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72
Fresh Rice Flour Egg, 75–76 gluten-free, types of, 5 Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat Cheese, 70 Rice Pappardelle with Mushroom Sauce, 77–78 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71 Pasta Frolla, Rice Flour, 179 Pastry dough Rice Flour Pasta Frolla, 179 Rice Flour Tart Shell, 169–71 Rich Cornmeal Piecrust, 184 Peanut Butter –Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 –Teff Fudge Cookies, 160 Pecan(s) -Espresso Cookies, 153 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Tart, 172 Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Peppers bell, broiling and peeling, 53 Pork Chops and Baked Polenta with, 113–14 Red, Quinoa Pilaf with, 52 Pie, Apple, with a Rich Cornmeal Crust, 185–86 Piecrusts. See Crust; Pastry dough Pilaf Millet, with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57 Orange Rice, and Roasted Tomatoes, Game Hens with, 107–8
Quinoa, with Red Peppers, 52 Rice, with Fennel, 64 Pine Nut(s) –Chocolate Meringue Cookies, 152 Currants, and Rice, Grape Leaf Rolls with, 62–63 Wafers, 165 Pizza, Goat Cheese, with Rice Flour Crust, 137 Polenta, Baked, and Pork Chops with Peppers, 113–14 Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Pork. See also Bacon and Asparagus, Asian Stick Noodles with, 79–80 Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 105 Chops and Baked Polenta with Peppers, 113–14 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Sausage Patties, English, 115 Potato(es) and Goat Cheese Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 potato flour, about, 14 potato starch, about, 14 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Poultry, 83–109. See also Chicken Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109 Prunes Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33 English Fruitcake, 204–5 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175
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^ Quinoa about, 14, 54 buying, 54 and Chicken Moroccan Style, 91–92 cooking, 93 -Fig Breakfast Bars, 26 flakes, about, 14, 54 Ground Chicken Roll with, 89–90 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with, 124 Meat Loaf with, 116 Pilaf with Red Peppers, 52 quinoa flour, about, 14, 54 rinsing, 54 Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, 55 Toasted, Muesli, 25
_ Ragù Sauce, 73–74 Raisin(s) English Fruitcake, 204–5 and Rice Bran Muffins, 24 -Walnut Tart, 175 Raspberry (jam) -Almond Tart, 174 -Hazelnut Cookies, 155 Rice. See also Rice Flour Bran and Raisin Muffins, 24 Brown Basmati, Halibut in Foil with, 125–26 Currants, and Pine Nuts, Grape Leaf Rolls with, 62–63 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Pilaf, Orange, and Roasted Tomatoes, Game Hens with, 107–8
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Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Saffron, Garlic Shrimp with, 127 varieties of, 14–15 wild, about, 16 Rice Flour Baguettes, 138–39 Bread Crumbs, 134 brown, about, 9, 23 brown, buying and storing, 23 Brown, Flatbread, Quick, 131 Crêpes, 22 Egg Pasta, Fresh, 75–76 English Muffins, 135–36 Flaxmeal Skillet Bread, 143 Focaccia, 137 Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41 white, about, 9, 15 White, Flatbread, Quick, 133–34 Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145 –Yogurt Pancakes, 21 Rice flour, Asian, about, 15 Rice flour, sweet (starch), about, 16 Ricotta Tart, 180–81 Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61 Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon, 56 with Scallops, 58–59
` Salad, Quinoa, with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, 55 Salmon, Nut-Crusted, with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Sandwich Cookies, Almond Jam, 156–57
Sauces Harissa, 92 Mustard and Caper, 123 Ragù, 73–74 Sausage(s) and Chestnut Dressing, 105 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Pork, Patties, English, 115 Scallops, Risotto with, 58–59 Seafood Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper Sauce, 128 Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124 Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Seed Bread, Rustic, 140–41 Shellfish Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Shortbread, Cornmeal and Cheese, 146 Shrimp, Garlic, with Saffron Rice, 127 Side dishes Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 105 Corn Fritters, 49 Lentils with Chickpeas, 51 Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Millet Pilaf with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57 Quinoa Pilaf with Red Peppers, 52 Quinoa Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, 55
Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Zucchini Fritters, 50 Sorbet, Quick Mango, 207 Sorghum (milo), about, 15 Soufflé, Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan, 45–46 Soup, Chicken and Chestnut, 99–100 Soy flour, about, 15 Spaetzle, Buckwheat, 81–82 Spaghetti, Rice, alla Carbonara, 69 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Squash. See Zucchini Strawberry–Cream Cheese Tart, 177
a Tapioca starch, about, 16 Tarts Almond-Raspberry, 174 Onion-Gruyère, 42–43 Pecan, 172 Raisin-Walnut, 175 Ricotta, 180–81 Strawberry–Cream Cheese, 177 unmolding, from tart or quiche pan, 173 Tart Shell(s) prebaked, troubleshooting, 171 prebaking, 170–71 Rice Flour, 169–71 Teff Brownies, 158 Gingerbread with Dates, 161 health benefits from, 159 –Peanut Butter Fudge Cookies, 160 teff flour, about, 16, 159 teff seeds, about, 16, 159
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Tomato(es) Cucumber, and Mint, Quinoa Salad with, 55 and Egg Curry, Creamy, 37 Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74 Halibut, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124 Ragù, 73–74 Roasted, and Orange Rice Pilaf, Game Hens with, 107–8 Sun-Dried, and Cornmeal Loaf, 147 Sun-Dried, and Parmesan Soufflé, 45–46 Sun-Dried, Braised Short Ribs with, 119–20 Trout, Five-Minute, with Crispy Caper Sauce, 128
c Vanilla Wafers, Rice Flour, 164 Veal English Pork Sausage Patties, 115 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116
d Walnut(s) -Chocolate Cake, Four-Ingredient, 189–90 English Fruitcake, 204–5 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26
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–Olive Oil Sponge Cake, 201–2 Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 -Raisin Tart, 175 Teff Brownies, 158 Wax paper, for baking sheets, 132 Wheat allergies dining out with, 3–4 gluten-free shopping guidelines, 4–6 physical reactions to, 2 Wild rice, about, 16
f Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145 Yogurt Greek, about, 177–78 Greek, making at home, 178 Honeyed, 29 –Rice Flour Pancakes, 21
g Zanthan gum, 17 Zucchini Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92 Fritters, 50 Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa, 89–90 and Spinach Frittata, 44
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I owe a huge debt of thanks to all those who helped to transform this book from a jumble of recipes into reality. In particular, I’d like to thank Chuck Williams, mentor and friend for over three decades, for wise counsel and encouragement, my stellar literary agent, Carole Bidnick, and my very special editors at HarperCollins/William Morrow, Harriet Bell and Jennifer Civiletto. Thank you all for having faith in me and for your unfailingly good advice. My gratitude goes also to five enthusiastic recipe testers: Laura Martin Bacon, cookie queen and fellow food-andcookware writer; Dianne Jacobs, author of the indispensable Will Write for Food (Marlowe & Company, 2005); Anna Noelle Rockwell, fine equine artist and fellow dressage rider; Ellen Switkes, indefatigable organizer of the Oakland/San Francisco celiac support group; and Elaine Taylor, cofounder and president of The Taylor Family Foundation, a non-profit organization that makes an incalculable difference to the lives of sick children. In addition, I would like to express my heartfelt appreciation to photographer Judi Swinks and stylist Nani Steele, whose creativity and talent speak for themselves in this new edition of The Wheat-Free Cook.
COPYRIGHT
A hardcover edition of this book was published in 2007 by William Morrow, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers.
THE WHEAT-FREE COOK. Copyright © 2007 by Jacqueline Mallorca. Illustrations copyright © 2007 by Jacqueline Mallorca. Photographs copyright © 2009 by Judi Swinks. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.
AER Edition © January 2009 ISBN: 9780061863998 Photographs were unavailable for the electronic edition. First William Morrow paperback edition published 2009.
The Library of Congress has cataloged the hardcover edition as follows: Mallorca, Jacqueline. The wheat-free cook: gluten-free recipes for everyone / Jacqueline Mallorca. p. cm. ISBN: 978-0-06-111988-0 ISBN-10: 0-06-111988-1 1. Gluten-free diet. 2. Gluten-free diet–Recipes. RM237.86 .M35 2007 641.5/638 22 2006046155 ISBN 978-0-06-166340-6 (pbk.) 09
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ABOUT THE PUBLISHER
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* ± 7 & " -8":4 -07&% $0 0, */( and baking in par ticular, so when I was told that I could no longer eat wheat in any form, I was taken aback. And the diet sheet I was given seemed calculated to bring on severe depression. Torn between outrage and laughter, I decided that if life had handed me a lemon, I was going to fight back. I’d cook it. As anyone who is new to cooking without wheat or gluten soon discovers, it was a bit like exploring a foreign cuisine and using unfamiliar ingredients. However, being a food writer, I’m used to developing recipes, so I did have an advantage right out of the starting gate. Flours made from brown rice, quinoa, teff, chestnuts, almonds, and flax began to fill my freezer. Cakes, cookies, and tarts were no problem at all, and in fact often surpassed the originals made with wheat flour. Gratifyingly, foodie friends and associates—knowledgeable cooks with critical palates—all chorused the same refrain: “Jackie, this is better than the wheat version. And lighter. Can I have the recipe?” Bread was another matter, at least in the early days. Gluten-free flours lack structure: they don’t interact with leavening to create a light, airy loaf. The gluten-free bread one could buy was appalling, so I kept trying and finally hit upon the idea of returning to the small, round hearth breads of old. They have a crisp crust that contrasts with the soft interior, and being made with whole grains in true artisan style, they’re healthful as well as delicious. They are also very quick to stir together. Day-to-day cooking doesn’t need all that much tweaking to make it gluten-free. After all, it’s just as easy to thicken a comforting stew with rice flour or cornstarch as it is with all-purpose flour, and sautéed chicken breast tastes much better when coated with a mixture of ground hazelnuts and Parmesan than it ever did covered
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in stale boxed bread crumbs. I’ve included a cross-section of recipes for everyday cooking and weekend entertaining that everyone at the table can relish, whether they’re gluten-sensitive or not. Cooking necessarily involves buying ingredients, and gluten-sensitive shoppers do have to become hawk-eyed label checkers. Wheat can turn up in the most unexpected places, like soy sauce, so you’ll find a buyer’s guide on page 4. Be aware that “wheat free” doesn’t necessarily mean gluten-free. Happily, new labeling laws now coming into effect are making gluten-free shopping easier every day, and some chains, like Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s, offer pamphlets listing literally hundreds of gluten-free groceries, from corn spaghetti to Japanese tamari sauce. There is a world beyond wheat, and a very rewarding one at that. I have thoroughly enjoyed creating these recipes, and I hope that you—and your family and friends—will enjoy them too.
dURNa NY YR_Tf cR_`b` PRYVNP QV`RN`R A wheat allergy and celiac disease are not the same thing. When a person has a wheat allergy, his or her immune system has an abnormal reaction to the proteins in wheat. Other major food allergens include eggs, corn, fish and shellfish, milk, peanuts, soy, and tree nuts. When someone with celiac disease eats food containing gluten, part of the protein found in wheat, barley, and rye, it triggers an immune-system attack on the lining of the small intestine. The resultant damage, which prevents the body from absorbing nutrients properly, can lead to diarrhea, fatigue, nausea and weight loss, and of course, malnutrition. Many health professionals believe that untreated celiac disease—which often has no symptoms—can lead to osteoporosis, anemia, infertility, and cancer. A related condition, dermatitis herpetiformis, causes a distinctive weepy, itchy rash that frequently appears on the hands, behind the knees, and inside the elbows. Unfortunately, a dermatologist will rarely suggest that it might be caused by something you ate.
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Up until quite recently, it took an average of eleven years to get a correct diagnosis for celiac disease, partly because symptoms vary so much among individuals, and because it was thought to be a childhood ailment rarely seen in America. That point of view is changing. It is now estimated that celiac disease affects 0.5 percent to 1 percent of the U.S. population, or between 1.5 million to 3 million Americans. (In Finland, it’s 2 percent of the population; in Italy, 1.2 percent and in northern Ireland, .09 percent.) Diagnosis is often difficult, as the symptoms can mimic other conditions such as Crohn’s disease, or be ascribed to irritable bowel syndrome. Blood tests can reveal celiac-related antibodies, but an intestinal biopsy is usually needed. Celiac disease is hereditary, though not all children of a parent with the disease will test positive. As with a food allergy, there is no cure other than avoiding the offending substance, at least so far. Still, this beats taking drugs with unknown long-term side effects. Although those of us with a wheat allergy or celiac disease must be vigilant about what we buy and eat, we don’t have to forgo favorites like pasta, bread, and cake. We can still eat well and entertain family and friends at the table, perhaps even better and more healthfully than ever before. Dining out also requires caution. Generous friends and relations who want to cook for you but are uncertain about the, um, gustatory limitations are no problem—just give them a copy of this book! Fast-food chains are generally offlimits, as the majority of their offerings involve wheat in one form or another. In any case, the food tends to arrive in those kitchens prepacked, and the staff has no idea what’s actually in it. But here too, government regulations that demand full disclosure are starting to come into effect. All those people diagnosed with celiac disease, plus millions of others with various food allergies, do have a certain amount of clout. As celiac disease becomes better known among the general public, even chains are starting to offer gluten-free specials. You’ll find that the waiters in established restaurants are generally most helpful if you ask their advice about the menu, explaining with regret that you can’t eat anything containing wheat flour in the
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sauce (or dusted on before browning), bread crumbs, croutons, or pasta. Chefs are nurturing people by nature, and will usually make a big effort to take care of you—and gain a happy repeat customer.
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8)&/ :06 -00, #& :0/% 8 )& "5 there’s a whole cornucopia of gluten-free grains, seeds, and nuts out there that have been cultivated since the dawn of civilization. Rice sustains more than half of the world’s population, and along with corn is the most obvious and useful alternative to wheat. In addition, there’s South American amaranth and quinoa, East African teff, Asian millet (revered by the ancient Chinese as one of their Five Sacred Grains and the most widely used grain in India today), and northern European buckwheat, which isn’t wheat at all but botanically related to rhubarb. Nuts such as walnuts, almonds, pecans, and chestnuts make wonderful flour, as do dried beans. Even cocoa can be utilized as a form of flour. I can’t claim that this is a comprehensive list, but it does include those ingredients most readily available in the United States. Some grains are best when used whole in pilafs, others shine when ground into flour and used for baking, and most are good both ways. Nearly all of them are utilized as whole-grain flours, with all their nutrients intact, and provide healthful complex carbohydrates and fiber as well as good flavors. As a general rule, it’s best to buy nuts and gluten-free flours in small quantities and store them in the freezer or refrigerator. Being completely natural, they contain no preservatives or other dubious additions. It’s advisable to buy gluten-free flours that have been prepackaged in a dedicated facility. Open bins in natural foods stores can be cross-contaminated by other customers using a scoop from a neighboring bin containing, say, whole wheat flour.
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In your own kitchen, keep any gluten-containing products strictly segregated, and don’t share hard-to-clean items like a toaster, or let anyone put gluten-free bread or crackers on the same platter with those made from wheat. Even the tiny amount of gluten present in a few bread crumbs can cause trouble for celiacs. You can grind your own flours from gluten-free whole grains, but it may be more trouble than it’s worth. I have an electronic grain mill, which makes more noise than the Concorde taking off. It used to send my late-lamented cat flying from the kitchen with her fur standing on end. It does a good job, but wafts flour over every surface. An electric coffee mill reserved for grinding things other than coffee is useful for reducing small quantities of flaxeeds or nuts to flour. A food processor simply whirls the former about, and tends to make nut paste from the latter unless you add rice flour or sugar. I don’t blend my own supposedly allpurpose flour mix, as most breads, cookies, tart shells, and cakes require different ratios of gluten-free flours to be at their best. NYZ\[Q ZRNY SY\b_ Ground from whole almonds with the bran intact, this mellow, off-white flour is invaluable for cakes and cookies. It is available ready ground, but unless you can find a source with a high turnover—to ensure freshness—and reasonable prices (Trader Joe’s is a good source), it’s best to grind your own. An electric coffee mill reserved for grinding items other than coffee works pretty well. If you use a food processor, combining whole almonds with a little rice flour or sugar, subtracted from the other ingredients listed in a recipe, helps to prevent turning the nuts into paste by mistake. Incidentally, 1 cup of whole almonds weighs 4 ounces. One cup of ready-ground almond meal weighs approximately 3 ounces. NZN_N[aU A tiny round grain known as the “mother grain” in the Inca empire, Amaranthus caudatus is not a true cereal, although it’s used like one. High in protein, calcium, iron, and fiber, the whole grains cook in 15 minutes or less.
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N__\d_\\a `aN_PU Derived from the rhizomes of various tropical plants and generally used in North America as a thickener, this cornstarch-like product gives a glossy finish to sauces. Be cautious about utilizing it in cookie doughs, as too much will turn the baked cookies into cement. O_\d[ _VPR SY\b_ dUVaR _VPR SY\b_ The all-purpose workhorse of the gluten-free kitchen, flour milled from brown rice is mellow in flavor, nutritious, and generally invaluable. White rice flour (not to be confused with Asian rice flour, a silky powder) is milled from hulled rice. When used in baking, both brown rice flour and white rice flour are usually combined with cornstarch, potato starch, or tapioca starch to counteract their slightly coarse texture. ObPXdURNa ObPXdURNa SY\b_ Not wheat at all but a relative of rhubarb (the name is derived from the Dutch bockweit, as these triangular seeds were thought to resemble beech nuts), buckwheat is a hardy plant that manages to flourish in poor soils and inhospitable climates. Famously used in Russian blini (pancakes) and Japanese soba noodles, buckwheat flour is excellent in rustic flatbreads. The whole grains or groats are made into kasha, a dish that corresponds to an Arabic pilaf or an Italian risotto. PUR`a[ba` PUR`a[ba SY\b_ The European chestnut, Castanea sativa, contains more starch and far less oil than any other tree nut, and makes a sweet-tasting flour. Once used by poor peasants in rural Italy for making hearth breads and polenta, it’s more of a luxury food today. Whole chestnuts can serve as a starchy vegetable or a stuffing ingredient, or
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be turned into delicious desserts. They are available fresh, canned, frozen, vacuumpacked, and candied. For more information on chestnuts, see page 102. PUVPX]RN` PUVPX]RN SY\b_ Ground from dried chickpeas, or garbanzo beans as they are also known, chickpea flour has a distinctive but pleasant flavor, making it a good candidate for breads but not cakes. Universally popular Middle Eastern dishes like hummus and falafel are based on chickpeas, and the cuisine of India would be poorer without them. Garfava flour is a proprietary blend of garbanzo and fava bean flour. PU\P\YNaR Chocolate is derived from the seeds of cacao trees cultivated mainly in Latin America, West Africa, Indonesia, Malaysia, and the Caribbean. Depending on where they’re grown, cacao beans, like coffee beans, have distinct flavor characteristics: fruity, floral, and so on. After harvesting, the beans undergo fermentation, when they start to develop their unique flavors, and are then dried and graded. Chocolate manufacturers roast and hull the beans to free the meat, or nibs. These nibs are ground into chocolate liquor, a thick, nonalcoholic paste of cacao butter, a form of vegetable fat, and vegetable solids. Unsweetened chocolate is essentially solidified chocolate liquor with a high percentage of cacao butter. Bittersweet, semisweet, and milk chocolate contain increasing amounts of sugar, so the percentage of cacao butter decreases accordingly. White chocolate is cacao butter (often mixed with some other, cheaper fat) mixed with lots of sugar, milk solids, and vanilla, and tastes of dried milk powder. Dark chocolate and chocolate chips with at least 60 percent cacao butter are the best choice for baking—and eating—for their rich flavor and silky smoothness. Ghirardelli’s 60 percent dark chocolate is an excellent buy, the thin bars are easy to chop and melt, and both the chocolate and Ghirardelli’s 60 percent chocolate chips give first-rate results in baking.
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P\P\N ]\dQR_ Cocoa powder is made when chocolate liquor is pressed to extract about three-quarters of its cacao butter. (The correct spelling got mangled years ago.) The remaining solids are made into unsweetened cocoa powder, either natural or Dutch-processed. Natural unsweetened cocoa powder gives a deep, intense chocolate flavor to baked goods, and is the form I prefer. Good brands include Hershey’s, Ghirardelli, and Scharffen Berger. Dutch-processed unsweetened cocoa is treated with an alkali to neutralize its natural acidity, has a more delicate flavor, and dissolves easily in liquids. Valrhona and Droste are two excellent brands. Both natural and Dutch-processed cocoa make good gluten-free baking ingredients. P\_ [ P\_[ZRNY P\_ [`aN_PU Corn, more often known outside the United States as maize, is actually a kind of grass with huge seed heads, or cobs. Fresh sweet corn in season is a treat; popcorn is a perennial favorite as a snack; cornmeal remains an integral part of American cooking in the form of corn bread, grits, and tortillas; and Italian polenta has now become popular. Eating corn with beans creates a complementary mix of amino acids that raises the protein value. If possible, avoid labels that say “degerminated” when buying corn products; you want the whole grain. When used as a thickener for sauces, silky white cornstarch gives a glossy finish. Particularly useful in baking, it helps to smooth out the slightly coarse texture of many gluten-free flours, but like its fellow starches, has little or no nutritional value. Cornstarch is generally interchangeable with potato starch and Asian rice flour/sweet white rice flour in baking. SYNe`RRQ` SYNeZRNY According to nutritionists, flaxseeds are one of most nutritious plant foods on the planet. They contain more heart-healthy omega-3 oil than fish and more fiber than
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oats, and have a pleasantly nutty, grassy flavor. You can grind your own using an electric coffee mill (a food processor just spins them around, as the outer coating is extremely hard), or buy preground flaxmeal and store it in the freezer. Flaxmeal can lend suppleness as well as goodness to gluten-free breads, as it’s high in flax oil. However, as always, consult your physician and nutritionist for their views about the nutritional and medical value of any so-called super food. See page 142 for more information about flaxseeds. TN_ON[g\ SY\b_ See Chickpea Flour. TN_SNcN SY\b_ See Chickpea Flour. YR[aVY` YR[aVY SY\b_ One of the few dried pulses that don’t have to be soaked before cooking, brown, green and black lentils cook in about 35 minutes and make a tasty side dish. The little red ones are best for soup, as they quickly disintegrate. Various kinds of lentil flour are much used in India for making poppadums, those crispy wafers that complement curries so well. (Imported poppadums are available, but read the label to make sure they are gluten-free.) Lentil flour is good in flatbreads, and lentil flour “riso” makes a welcome addition to hearty soups. ZN[V\P SY\b_ See Tapioca Starch.
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ZVYYRa ZVYYRa SY\b_ One of the first grains to be cultivated by man, perhaps 12,000 years ago, nutritious millet contains almost 15 percent protein. The leading staple grain in India, it is also popular in China, South America, Russia, and the Himalayas. It has a mellow, nutty flavor and cooks in just 15 minutes, but few people in North America are familiar with it. Much too good to reserve for birdseed, millet makes an excellent pilaf or grain salad, especially when toasted before cooking to bring out its delicate flavor. It also makes a good hot breakfast cereal with raisins and honey. Use the flour mixed with other gluten-free flours in breads and muffins. Z\[aV[N Z\[aV[N SY\b_ Developed in Montana from Indian lovegrass, a hardy native plant that thrives in poor soils, this high protein grain yields good flour for gluten-free baking. [ba` [ba SY\b_` A storehouse of vitamins, minerals, and fiber as well as being good to eat at any time, almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, and walnuts make luxurious gluten-free flours. True, most nuts are also high in oil, but it’s the heart-healthy, mono- or polyunsaturated kind. When nuts are ground, the flavorful oil content can take the place of butter in baking; just as the starchy part stands in for flour. Nutrient-rich peanuts are not true nuts but legumes. \Na` \Na SY\b_ \NaZRNY Oats do not contain gluten, despite long-standing claims to the contrary. Oats, however, are particularly subject to cross-contamination by other grains in the field, or during the milling and packing process in a plant that also handles other grains. In a recent newsletter published by the Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University, readers were advised that multiple studies in Europe and the United States show
TYbaR[S _RR T_NV[` SY\b_` N[Q \aUR_ V[T_RQVR[a`
that the majority of people with celiac disease tolerate oats. Reliably gluten-free oats are available by mail order from the Gluten-Free Oats Company in Powell, Wyoming, and Cream Hill Estates in La Salle, Quebec (see pages 211–12). Aside from the fact that oatmeal tastes delicious, scientific studies have shown that oats contain a special form of fiber, beta-glucan, found to be effective in lowering LDL cholesterol. ]\aNa\ SY\b_ This is a heavy, strongly flavored flour sometimes added to bread in small amounts. Don’t confuse it with potato starch, which is far more useful. ]\aNa\ `aN_PU A silky white starch with a texture like talcum powder that’s useful as a thickener, potato starch is interchangeable with cornstarch and Asian rice flour/sweet white rice flour for smoothing out the slightly coarse texture of whole-grain brown rice flour. ^bV[\N ^bV[\N SYNXR` ^bV[\N SY\b_ Along with amaranth, high-protein quinoa helped to sustain the vast Inca empire before the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, who banned its cultivation for religious and political reasons. Botanically related to Swiss chard and beets, the whole grains make excellent pilafs and hearty salads; the flour—used in conjunction with other gluten-free flours—is good in breads. Quinoa flakes make a mellow, highprotein addition to homemade muesli, stuffings, and meat loaves, and can be cooked like oatmeal. Most quinoa must be rinsed before cooking to remove the residue of bitter saponins, the plant’s defense against insects. _VPR Rice, Oryza sativa, sustains more than half of the world’s population. There are hundreds of varieties, but all of them fall into two main camps: Indica rice, which is dry
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and separate, and Vaponica rice, which sticks together. The former is fluffier when cooked (think of pilaf); the latter contains more starch and is generally gummier and creamier (think of creamy risotto or rice pudding.) Whole, or brown, rice contains complex carbohydrates, thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, phosphorus, iron, potassium, and fiber. White rice is refined, with the germ and bran removed. In the United States, most refined white rice found on grocery shelves is enriched with at least some of the nutrients lost during processing, but not the fiber. Converted rice is parboiled before refining, a process that forces some of the B vitamins into the endosperm so they are not lost when the bran is polished off, but it’s still not as healthful as brown rice. Some round-grain rice varieties, like Italian Arborio and Spanish Calasparra, are especially good for absorbing flavorful broths during cooking while simultaneously retaining their shape. All kinds of rice are gluten-free, from Uncle Ben’s to the exotic ones like Bhutanese red rice and Japanese black rice. Glutinous rice, spelled with an “i,” is another term for sticky rice. It does not contain gluten. _VPR SY\b_ N`VN[ Not the same product as rice flour milled from brown or white rice, silky white rice starch is interchangeable with cornstarch as a thickener, and as a mixer in gluten-free baking. `\_TUbZ ZVY\ A hardy, gluten-free mild-tasting grain believed to have originated in Africa, sorghum can be utilized like oatmeal, and is available as flour. `\f SY\b_ Like most bean flours, yellow soy flour has a pronounced flavor. A cheap source of protein, it is used extensively in the food industry in everything from frozen desserts to meat loaf. A small amount can be used in gluten-free breads, but it makes them dense.
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`dRRa _VPR SY\b_ `aN_PU Milled from glutinous or sticky white rice, this neutral-tasting (not sweet) starch has a slightly sticky quality that can be handy for baking when used in combination with other gluten-free flours, as it helps to retain moisture. aN]V\PN `aN_PU A favorite for bread baking when combined with other gluten-free flours, tapioca starch lends a chewy, slightly elastic quality. Also known as cassava or manioc and derived from a root, the whole “pearls” and granulated tapioca can be made into a milk-based pudding. aRSS SY\b_ Tiny, highly nutritious teff, the staple grain of Ethiopia and Eritrea, is now cultivated successfully in the United States. Available as ivory or brownish flour at some natural foods stores and by mail order, teff flour has a sweet, molasseslike flavor and makes exceptional gluten-free brownies, cookies, and gingerbread. It can also be cooked like porridge for breakfast. A form of millet, it contains over twice the iron of other grains and twenty times the calcium: one cup of cooked teff contains more calcium (387 mg) than a cup of milk. dVYQ _VPR This is not a true rice at all, but the long, dark brown, slightly smoky-flavored seed of an aquatic grass indigenous to the Great Lakes region. A luxury food that is usually blended with other types of rice because of its high price and assertive though delicious flavor, wild rice has twice the protein and fiber of brown rice, but not as much iron and calcium.
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eN[aUN[ TbZ Derived from corn sugar, this white powder looks a lot like baking powder and is used in similar amounts, so an admittedly rather costly 8-ounce bag goes a long way. Invaluable in gluten-free bread baking, it provides elasticity and helps to prevent dryness and crumbling. A very small quantity also benefits shortcrust pastry and some cakes and cookies, which can otherwise be too fragile. It can be found in natural foods stores, including Whole Foods, some supermarkets, and on the Web via sources such as Bob’s Red Mill, and it keeps at room temperature.
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Xh[Wa\W ij (*7&/ 5)& 13& 7" -&/$& 0' # 09&% $&3& " - 4 toast, bagels, and doughnuts on the average American morning menu, going wheat-free sounds difficult, if not impossible. In fact, breakfast bars and muffins made with alternative grains are delicious, not to mention good for your health. Rice Flour English Muffins (page 135) freeze well and can be thawed and toasted whenever you please; toasty homemade muesli is another option. A weekend brunch, when there’s time to linger, can include indulgences like pancakes, warm apple crumble, or an almond flour coffee cake like Grandma never made.
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5)*4 *4 " 5" 4 5 : appetizer or side dish that cooks in 5 minutes. Long, slender purple or lavender Japanese eggplants can be substituted; like zucchini, their skins are so tender that they don’t need peeling. Either one makes first-rate finger food with a glass of wine.
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6/- *, & %3*&% #& " /4 - &/ 5 *- 4 don’t need soaking before you cook them. For my money, green lentils have by far the best texture; brown ones can be floury when cooked, and tiny red lentils turn to mush the moment your back is turned (they’re good in soup, though). As with cooked quinoa, any leftovers can be turned into an excellent grain salad by adding a splash of wine vinegar and more olive oil.
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5)*4 3&(*0/ " - */- " /% 7" 3*& 5 : of paella makes an intriguing change from the more familiar Barcelona version with chicken and seafood. Be sure to use round-grain Spanish or Italian rice here; long-grain white rice turns to mush. The sliced tomatoes on top give it a finished look as well as a fresh taste, and the golden fried potatoes, perhaps surprisingly, add great texture and flavor. Old Spanish recipes start with about half a pound of fresh lard; I use olive oil instead. An inexpensive, two-handled, 16-cup aluminum paella pan about 14 inches across adds to the presentation (and makes a useful all-purpose roasting pan), but dividing the ingredients between two large skillets also works.
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8& "-5):"/$*&/530."/4'"5 5&/&% chickens on bread soaked in wine and hydromel, a kind of liquor made with fermented honey. The birds gorged themselves silly, attained an enormous weight, and were reputed to taste exquisite. Not having any chickens or mead with which to practice, I can’t vouch for the Roman method, but I can recommend enhancing a regular chicken’s size and flavor by stuffing it under the skin. To make the savory stuffing, you will need bread crumbs made from day-old Quick White Rice Flour Flatbread (page 133).
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\`a_VPU Ob_TR_` dVaU _RQ dV[R `NbPR 50%": ± 4 '" 3.&% 04 5 3*$) 130% 6 $& 4 a flavorful, juicy red meat, similar in taste and texture to beef, but 90 percent fat-free, which makes it lower in cholesterol and calories than all other poultry and meats, including venison. And there’s no such thing as Angry Ostrich Disease. Like other very lean meats, it’s best cooked briefly. Dusting the patties with rice flour helps the browning process and gives a good surface texture. Ground ostrich meat is available frozen from upscale food markets such as Whole Foods.
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c[WjWdZ i[W\eeZ 53*&% " /% 5 36&$0.'035'00%4-*, & #3 " *4&% short ribs and meat loaf don’t require much tweaking to make them gluten-free, and no one ever notices the difference if a rack of lamb with a herbed crumb crust is made with rice flour bread crumbs rather than the wheat-bread kind. Fish dishes, too, are easy. In fact, simple panfried fish fillets taste better than usual when dusted with white rice flour before sautéing. As it contains no gluten, the flour doesn’t become gluey, and it imparts a crisper surface texture. Quinoa goes especially well with fish and seafood, as does rice.
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Xh[WZi %& 7&-01*/( & " 4 : 3&$*1&4 '03 " 3 5 *4 " / 4 5 : - & -0"7 & 4 using gluten-free flours was a challenge, but a rewarding one. Technically, the recipes that follow are all batter breads: the dough is mixed rather than kneaded, and all but one are raised with baking powder, not yeast. This means you can produce an aromatic, crusty loaf with a light, elastic crumb in about 30 minutes, even if you’ve never baked a loaf of bread in your life. Based on the hearth breads of old, most of these loaves are quite small and relatively low, because gluten-free flours don’t form the weblike, airy structure that characterizes bread made with milled wheat and yeast. But what they lack in size they make up for in flavor, texture, and nutrition. Xanthan gum, a white powder derived from corn syrup, helps to promote a springy texture and retain moisture. True, these preservative-free breads don’t keep (neither do baguettes from a French bakery), but they freeze well.
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#" 4&% 0/ " 1 016 - " 3 Italian cookie, these airy, delicate wafers go perfectly with espresso or ice cream. Pine nuts (pignoli) can be found in natural foods stores and Italian groceries.
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Celiac Disease Foundation 13251 Ventura Boulevard, Suite 1 Studio City, CA 91604 Telephone: 818.990.2354 e-mail: [email protected] www.celiac.org Celiac Sprue Association (CSA/USA) P.O. Box 31700 Omaha, NE 68131 Telephone: 877.CSA.4CSA e-mail: [email protected] www.csaceliacs.org Gluten Intolerance Group of North America (GIG) 31214 124th Avenue SE Auburn, WA 98092-3667 Telephone: 253.833.6655 e-mail: [email protected] www.gluten.net Canadian Celiac Association 5170 Dixie Road, Suite 204 Mississauga, ON L4W 1E3
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Telephone: 800.363.7296 www.celiac.ca
Celiac Disease: A Hidden Epidemic, by Peter H. R. Green, M.D., Director of the Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University and Rory Jones (Collins, 2006). The first authoritative guide on diagnosis, treatment, and management of celiac disease. Essential reading for both patients and the medical community, this is a readable guide to understanding and coping with a serious condition that has been little known until now. Gluten-Free Living P.O. Box 375 Maple Shade, NJ 08052 Telephone: 800.324.8781 www.glutenfreeliving.com A national, full-color magazine with reliable, well-researched information and articles relating to living well with celiac disease. The Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University 212.305.5590 http://www.celiacdiseasecenter.columbia.edu The Celiac Center at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center 617.667.1272 www.bidmc.harvard.edu The University of Maryland Center for Celiac Research 410.328.6749 or 800.492.5538 http://celiaccenter.org The University of Chicago Celiac Disease Center 773.702.7593 www.celiacdisease.net
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Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods 5000 SE International Way Milwaukie, OR 97222 Telephone: 800.349.2173 www.bobsredmill.com Cream Hill Estates 9633 rue Clément H8R 4B4 La Salle, Quebec, Canada (gluten-free oats) Telephone: 866.727.3628 www.creamhillestates.com e-mail: [email protected] Empire Chestnut Company 3276 Empire Road SW Carrollton, OH 44615-9515 www.empirechestnut.com Ener- G Foods 5960 First Avenue South P.O. Box 84487 Seattle, WA 98124-5787
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www.ener-g.com Telephone: 800.331.5222 e-mail: [email protected] Gluten-Free Oats Company 578 Lane 9 Powell, WY 82435 Telephone: 307.754.2058 www.glutenfreeoats.com King Arthur Flour Company The Baker’s Store 135 Route 5 South Norwich, VT 05055 Telephone: 800.827.6836 www.kingarthurflour.com The Teff Company Telephone toll-free: 888.822.2221 e-mail: [email protected] www.teffco.com
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V[QRe N Almond(s) almond flour, about, 8 almond meal, about, 8 Amaretto Cake, 200 Carrot-Ginger Cake, 203 Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Jam Sandwich Cookies, 156–57 and Lemon Cake, 198–99 Nut Crumb Crust, 176 -Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33 -Raspberry Tart, 174 Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Amaranth, about, 8 Amaretto Cake, 200 Appetizers and first courses Chicken and Chestnut Soup, 99–100 Corn Fritters, 49 Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43 Parmesan Puffs, 40–41 Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Zucchini Fritters, 50 Apple(s) Crumble, Spiced, 28–29
Pie with a Rich Cornmeal Crust, 185–86 Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Arrowroot starch, about, 9 Arugula and Goat Cheese, Rice Fettuccine with, 70 Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and Asparagus, 79–80 Asparagus and Pork, Asian Stick Noodles with, 79–80 Rice Spirals with, 71
O Bacon Millet, and Mushroom Risotto, 56 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Baguettes Flaxseed and Chickpea, Quick, 144 Rice Flour, 138–39 Beans. See Chickpea(s); Lentil(s) Beef Braised Oxtail with Mushrooms, 121–22 Braised Short Ribs with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, 119–20 Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Ragù, 73–74
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Bran, Rice, and Raisin Muffins, 24 Breads, 129–47 Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Cornmeal and Sun-Dried Tomato Loaf, 147 Crumbs, Rice Flour, 134 Flaxmeal Skillet, 143 Goat Cheese Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137 lining baking sheet for, 132 Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Quick Brown Rice Flour Flatbread, 131 Quick Flaxseed and Chickpea Baguette, 144 Quick White Rice Flour Flatbread, 133–34 Rice Bran and Raisin Muffins, 24 Rice Flour Baguettes, 138–39 Rice Flour English Muffins, 135–36 Rice Flour Focaccia, 137 Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145 Breakfast dishes, 19–33 Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Rice Bran and Raisin Muffins, 24 Rice Flour Crêpes, 22 Spiced Apple Crumble, 28–29 Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Yogurt–Rice Flour Pancakes, 21 Brownies, Teff, 158 Buckwheat buckwheat flour, about, 9 Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41 Spaetzle, 81–82 whole (groats), about, 9 Burgers, Ostrich, with Red Wine Sauce, 109
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P Cakes Almond and Lemon, 198–99 Amaretto, 200 best cake pans for, 190 Carrot-Ginger, 203 Chocolate, Extra-Light, 193 Chocolate-Glazed Chestnut Gateau, 194–95 Chocolate-Hazelnut Truffle, 191 Chocolate-Walnut, Four-Ingredient, 189–90 Coffee, Almond-Plum Rice Flour, 32–33 cooling, on cake racks, 195 English Fruitcake, 204–5 Walnut–Olive Oil Sponge, 201–2 Cannelloni, Rice Flour, Gratinéed, 73–74 Capon, Roast, with Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 103–4 Carrot(s) Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92 -Ginger Cake, 203 Celery, peeling, 100 Celiac disease diagnosis of, 3 dining out with, 3–4 gluten-free shopping guidelines, 4–6 health risks from, 2–3 skin conditions related to, 2–3 Cereal. See Muesli Cheddar Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72 Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Cheese Corn Macaroni and, 72 and Cornmeal Shortbread, 146
Cream, –Strawberry Tart, 177 firm, storing, 43 Goat, and Arugula, Rice Fettuccine with, 70 Goat, and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Goat, Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137 Hazelnut and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets, 85–86 Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43 Parmesan Puffs, 40–41 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Ricotta Tart, 180–81 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé, 45–46 Zucchini Fritters, 50 Cherries English Fruitcake, 204–5 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175 Chestnut(s) chestnut flour, about, 9 and Chicken Soup, 99–100 Gateau, Chocolate-Glazed, 194–95 purée, buying, 102 and Sausage Dressing, 105 whole, about, 9–10 whole, buying, 102 whole, peeling, 102 Chicken breasts, grinding at home, 90 breasts, slicing horizontally, 85–86 with Celery and Tarragon, 98 in Chardonnay, 87–88 and Chestnut Soup, 99–100 Cutlets, Hazelnut and Parmesan, 85–86 Ground, Roll with Quinoa, 89–90 Legs, Lemon-Parsley, 96–97
Livers, Risotto with, 60–61 with Mushroom Stuffing, 94–95 and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92 Roast Capon with Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 103–4 Chickpea(s) chickpea flour, about, 10 Creamy Tomato and Egg Curry, 37 and Flaxseed Baguette, Quick, 144 Lentils with, 51 in Middle Eastern dishes, 10 Chocolate about, 10 Cake, Extra-Light, 193 Chip–Peanut Butter Cookies, 151 cocoa powder, about, 11 dark, imported, substitute for, 192 Éclairs, 196–97 -Glazed Chestnut Gateau, 194–95 -Hazelnut Truffle Cake, 191 Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154 Mousse, French, 206 –Pine Nut Meringue Cookies, 152 Teff Brownies, 158 types of, 10 -Walnut Cake, Four-Ingredient, 189–90 Cocoa powder Dutch-processed, about, 11 natural, about, 11 Coffee Cake, Almond-Plum Rice Flour, 32–33 Cookies and bars, 149–65 Almond Jam Sandwich Cookies, 156–57 Chocolate–Pine Nut Meringue Cookies, 152 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26
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Cookies and bars (continued) Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Hazelnut-Raspberry Cookies, 155 Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154 lining baking sheet for, 132 Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 Pecan-Espresso Cookies, 153 Pine Nut Wafers, 165 Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63 Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers, 164 Teff Brownies, 158 Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161 Corn. See also Cornmeal about, 11 Fritters, 49 Macaroni and Cheese, 72 Cornmeal about, 11 and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Flatbread, Yeast-Raised, 145 Piecrust, Rich, 184 and Sun-Dried Tomato Loaf, 147 Cornstarch, about, 11 Cream Cheese–Strawberry Tart, 177 Crêpes, Rice Flour, 22 Crust, Nut Crumb, 176 Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, Quinoa Salad with, 55 Currants English Fruitcake, 204–5 Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 and Hazelnuts, Millet Pilaf with, 57 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175 Rice, and Pine Nuts, Grape Leaf Rolls with, 62–63 Curry, Tomato and Egg, Creamy, 37
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Q Dates, Teff Gingerbread with, 161 Desserts Almond and Lemon Cake, 198–99 Almond Jam Sandwich Cookies, 156–57 Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33 Almond-Raspberry Tart, 174 Amaretto Cake, 200 Apple Pie with a Rich Cornmeal Crust, 185–86 Carrot-Ginger Cake, 203 Chocolate Éclairs, 196–97 Chocolate-Glazed Chestnut Gateau, 194–95 Chocolate-Hazelnut Truffle Cake, 191 Chocolate–Pine Nut Meringue Cookies, 152 English Fruitcake, 204–5 Extra-Light Chocolate Cake, 193 Four-Ingredient Chocolate-Walnut Cake, 189–90 French Chocolate Mousse, 206 Hazelnut-Raspberry Cookies, 155 Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154 Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 Pecan-Espresso Cookies, 153 Pecan Tart, 172 Pine Nut Wafers, 165 Quick Mango Sorbet, 207 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175 Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63 Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers, 164 Ricotta Tart, 180–81 Spiced Apple Crumble, 28–29
Strawberry–Cream Cheese Tart, 177 Teff Brownies, 158 Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161 Walnut–Olive Oil Sponge Cake, 201–2 Dressing, Sausage and Chestnut, 105 Dumplings. See Spaetzle
R Éclairs, Chocolate, 196–97 Egg(s) Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Hard-Boiled, Perfectly Cooked, 38 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé, 45–46 and Tomato Curry, Creamy, 37 English Muffins, Rice Flour, 135–36 Espresso-Pecan Cookies, 153
S Fennel, Rice Pilaf with, 64 Fettuccine, Rice, with Arugula and Goat Cheese, 70 Fig(s) English Fruitcake, 204–5 -Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 Fish and shellfish Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper Sauce, 128 Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124
Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Flaxseed(s) about, 11–12, 142 and Chickpea Baguette, Quick, 144 flaxmeal, buying, 12, 142 Flaxmeal Skillet Bread, 143 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 grinding, for flaxmeal, 12, 142 health benefits from, 11–12, 142 Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41 storing, 12, 142 Flour, gluten-free. See also specific flour types almond, about, 8 Asian rice flour (starch), about, 15 brown rice, about, 9 buckwheat, about, 9 buying and storing, 7 chestnut, about, 9 chickpea, about, 10 garfava, about, 10 grinding your own, 8 lentil, about, 12 millet, about, 13 montina, about, 13 nut, about, 13 oat, about, 13–14 potato, about, 14 quinoa, about, 14 soy, about, 15 sweet rice (starch), about, 16 teff, about, 16 white rice, about, 9
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Focaccia, Rice Flour, 137 Frittata, Spinach and Zucchini, 44 Fritters Corn, 49 Zucchini, 50 Fruitcake, English, 204–5
Gruyère -Onion Tart, 42–43 Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé, 45–46
U T Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Garbanzo flour, about, 10 Garfava flour, about, 10 Gingerbread, Teff, with Dates, 161 Gingerbread Cows, Rice Flour, 162–63 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Gluten-free shopping, 4–5 foods “maybe” permitted, 5–6 foods not permitted, 6 foods permitted, 4–5 Goat Cheese and Arugula, Rice Fettuccine with, 70 Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137 and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Grains. See also Buckwheat; Millet; Quinoa; Rice; Teff amaranth, about, 8 montina/montina flour, about, 13 oats and oat flour, about, 13–14 sorghum (milo), about, 15 Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and Pine Nuts, 62–63 Gratin, Halibut, Tomato, and Caper, with Quinoa, 124 Grocery shopping. See Gluten-free shopping
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Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26 Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124 Ham Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Harissa Sauce, 92 Hazelnut(s) -Chocolate Truffle Cake, 191 and Currants, Millet Pilaf with, 57 and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets, 85–86 -Raspberry Cookies, 155 Zebra Cookies, 154 Herbes de Provence Blend, 101 Honeyed Yogurt, 29
X Kasha (groats), about, 9
Y Lamb, Rack of, with Herbed Crumb Crust, 117–18 Lemon and Almond Cake, 198–99 Lemon-Parsley Chicken Legs, 96–97 Lentil(s) with Chickpeas, 51 lentil flour, about, 12 varieties of, 12 Livers, Chicken, Risotto with, 60–61
Z Macaroni, Corn, and Cheese, 72 Main dishes (grains) Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and Pine Nuts, 62–63 Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Main dishes (meat) Braised Oxtail with Mushrooms, 121–22 Braised Short Ribs with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, 119–20 English Pork Sausage Patties, 115 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Pork Chops and Baked Polenta with Peppers, 113–14 Rack of Lamb with Herbed Crumb Crust, 117–18 Main dishes (pasta) Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and Asparagus, 79–80 Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72 Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74 Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat Cheese, 70 Rice Pappardelle with Mushroom Sauce, 77–78 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71 Main dishes (poultry) Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92 Chicken in Chardonnay, 87–88 Chicken with Celery and Tarragon, 98
Chicken with Mushroom Stuffing, 94–95 Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa, 89–90 Hazelnut and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets, 85–86 Lemon-Parsley Chicken Legs, 96–97 Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109 Roast Capon with Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 103–4 Main dishes (seafood) Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper Sauce, 128 Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124 Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Main dishes (vegetarian) Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72 Creamy Tomato and Egg Curry, 37 Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and Pine Nuts, 62–63 Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat Cheese, 70 Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé, 45–46 Mango Sorbet, Quick, 207 Manioc flour. See Tapioca starch
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Meat. See Beef; Lamb; Pork; Veal Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Meringue Cookies, Chocolate–Pine Nut, 152 Millet millet flour, about, 13 Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Pilaf with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57 serving ideas, 13 Modified food starch, 5 Molasses Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63 Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161 Montina/montina flour, about, 13 Mousse, French Chocolate, 206 Muesli, Toasted Quinoa, 25 Muffins Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Rice Bran and Raisin, 24 Mushroom(s) Braised Oxtail with, 121–22 Chicken in Chardonnay, 87–88 Millet, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Sauce, Rice Pappardelle with, 77–78 Stuffing, Chicken with, 94–95 Mustard and Caper Sauce, 123
[ Noodles, Asian Stick, with Pork and Asparagus, 79–80 Nut(s). See also Almond(s); Chestnut(s); Hazelnut(s); Pecan(s); Walnut(s) buying and storing, 7 ground, for baked goods, 13 health benefits from, 13 nut flours, about, 13
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Pine, –Chocolate Meringue Cookies, 152 Pine, Rice, and Currants, Grape Leaf Rolls with, 62–63 Pine, Wafers, 165
\ Oats and oat flour, about, 13–14 Omelet, Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced, 39 Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43 Orange Peel, Candied, 182–83 Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109 Oxtail, Braised, with Mushrooms, 121–22
] Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Pancakes Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Yogurt–Rice Flour, 21 Pancetta Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Pappardelle, Rice, with Mushroom Sauce, 77–78 Parchment paper, for baking sheets, 132 Parmesan and Hazelnut Chicken Cutlets, 85–86 Puffs, 40–41 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 and Sun-Dried Tomato Soufflé, 45–46 Zucchini Fritters, 50 Pasta, 67–82 Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and Asparagus, 79–80 Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72
Fresh Rice Flour Egg, 75–76 gluten-free, types of, 5 Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat Cheese, 70 Rice Pappardelle with Mushroom Sauce, 77–78 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71 Pasta Frolla, Rice Flour, 179 Pastry dough Rice Flour Pasta Frolla, 179 Rice Flour Tart Shell, 169–71 Rich Cornmeal Piecrust, 184 Peanut Butter –Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 –Teff Fudge Cookies, 160 Pecan(s) -Espresso Cookies, 153 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Tart, 172 Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Peppers bell, broiling and peeling, 53 Pork Chops and Baked Polenta with, 113–14 Red, Quinoa Pilaf with, 52 Pie, Apple, with a Rich Cornmeal Crust, 185–86 Piecrusts. See Crust; Pastry dough Pilaf Millet, with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57 Orange Rice, and Roasted Tomatoes, Game Hens with, 107–8
Quinoa, with Red Peppers, 52 Rice, with Fennel, 64 Pine Nut(s) –Chocolate Meringue Cookies, 152 Currants, and Rice, Grape Leaf Rolls with, 62–63 Wafers, 165 Pizza, Goat Cheese, with Rice Flour Crust, 137 Polenta, Baked, and Pork Chops with Peppers, 113–14 Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Pork. See also Bacon and Asparagus, Asian Stick Noodles with, 79–80 Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 105 Chops and Baked Polenta with Peppers, 113–14 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Sausage Patties, English, 115 Potato(es) and Goat Cheese Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 potato flour, about, 14 potato starch, about, 14 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Poultry, 83–109. See also Chicken Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109 Prunes Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33 English Fruitcake, 204–5 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175
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^ Quinoa about, 14, 54 buying, 54 and Chicken Moroccan Style, 91–92 cooking, 93 -Fig Breakfast Bars, 26 flakes, about, 14, 54 Ground Chicken Roll with, 89–90 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with, 124 Meat Loaf with, 116 Pilaf with Red Peppers, 52 quinoa flour, about, 14, 54 rinsing, 54 Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, 55 Toasted, Muesli, 25
_ Ragù Sauce, 73–74 Raisin(s) English Fruitcake, 204–5 and Rice Bran Muffins, 24 -Walnut Tart, 175 Raspberry (jam) -Almond Tart, 174 -Hazelnut Cookies, 155 Rice. See also Rice Flour Bran and Raisin Muffins, 24 Brown Basmati, Halibut in Foil with, 125–26 Currants, and Pine Nuts, Grape Leaf Rolls with, 62–63 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Pilaf, Orange, and Roasted Tomatoes, Game Hens with, 107–8
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Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Saffron, Garlic Shrimp with, 127 varieties of, 14–15 wild, about, 16 Rice Flour Baguettes, 138–39 Bread Crumbs, 134 brown, about, 9, 23 brown, buying and storing, 23 Brown, Flatbread, Quick, 131 Crêpes, 22 Egg Pasta, Fresh, 75–76 English Muffins, 135–36 Flaxmeal Skillet Bread, 143 Focaccia, 137 Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41 white, about, 9, 15 White, Flatbread, Quick, 133–34 Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145 –Yogurt Pancakes, 21 Rice flour, Asian, about, 15 Rice flour, sweet (starch), about, 16 Ricotta Tart, 180–81 Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61 Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon, 56 with Scallops, 58–59
` Salad, Quinoa, with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, 55 Salmon, Nut-Crusted, with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Sandwich Cookies, Almond Jam, 156–57
Sauces Harissa, 92 Mustard and Caper, 123 Ragù, 73–74 Sausage(s) and Chestnut Dressing, 105 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Pork, Patties, English, 115 Scallops, Risotto with, 58–59 Seafood Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper Sauce, 128 Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124 Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Seed Bread, Rustic, 140–41 Shellfish Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Shortbread, Cornmeal and Cheese, 146 Shrimp, Garlic, with Saffron Rice, 127 Side dishes Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 105 Corn Fritters, 49 Lentils with Chickpeas, 51 Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Millet Pilaf with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57 Quinoa Pilaf with Red Peppers, 52 Quinoa Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, 55
Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Zucchini Fritters, 50 Sorbet, Quick Mango, 207 Sorghum (milo), about, 15 Soufflé, Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan, 45–46 Soup, Chicken and Chestnut, 99–100 Soy flour, about, 15 Spaetzle, Buckwheat, 81–82 Spaghetti, Rice, alla Carbonara, 69 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Squash. See Zucchini Strawberry–Cream Cheese Tart, 177
a Tapioca starch, about, 16 Tarts Almond-Raspberry, 174 Onion-Gruyère, 42–43 Pecan, 172 Raisin-Walnut, 175 Ricotta, 180–81 Strawberry–Cream Cheese, 177 unmolding, from tart or quiche pan, 173 Tart Shell(s) prebaked, troubleshooting, 171 prebaking, 170–71 Rice Flour, 169–71 Teff Brownies, 158 Gingerbread with Dates, 161 health benefits from, 159 –Peanut Butter Fudge Cookies, 160 teff flour, about, 16, 159 teff seeds, about, 16, 159
_dZ[n
((-
Tomato(es) Cucumber, and Mint, Quinoa Salad with, 55 and Egg Curry, Creamy, 37 Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74 Halibut, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124 Ragù, 73–74 Roasted, and Orange Rice Pilaf, Game Hens with, 107–8 Sun-Dried, and Cornmeal Loaf, 147 Sun-Dried, and Parmesan Soufflé, 45–46 Sun-Dried, Braised Short Ribs with, 119–20 Trout, Five-Minute, with Crispy Caper Sauce, 128
c Vanilla Wafers, Rice Flour, 164 Veal English Pork Sausage Patties, 115 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116
d Walnut(s) -Chocolate Cake, Four-Ingredient, 189–90 English Fruitcake, 204–5 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26
((.
_dZ[n
–Olive Oil Sponge Cake, 201–2 Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 -Raisin Tart, 175 Teff Brownies, 158 Wax paper, for baking sheets, 132 Wheat allergies dining out with, 3–4 gluten-free shopping guidelines, 4–6 physical reactions to, 2 Wild rice, about, 16
f Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145 Yogurt Greek, about, 177–78 Greek, making at home, 178 Honeyed, 29 –Rice Flour Pancakes, 21
g Zanthan gum, 17 Zucchini Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92 Fritters, 50 Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa, 89–90 and Spinach Frittata, 44
NP X [\d Y RQT Z R[a`
I owe a huge debt of thanks to all those who helped to transform this book from a jumble of recipes into reality. In particular, I’d like to thank Chuck Williams, mentor and friend for over three decades, for wise counsel and encouragement, my stellar literary agent, Carole Bidnick, and my very special editors at HarperCollins/William Morrow, Harriet Bell and Jennifer Civiletto. Thank you all for having faith in me and for your unfailingly good advice. My gratitude goes also to five enthusiastic recipe testers: Laura Martin Bacon, cookie queen and fellow food-andcookware writer; Dianne Jacobs, author of the indispensable Will Write for Food (Marlowe & Company, 2005); Anna Noelle Rockwell, fine equine artist and fellow dressage rider; Ellen Switkes, indefatigable organizer of the Oakland/San Francisco celiac support group; and Elaine Taylor, cofounder and president of The Taylor Family Foundation, a non-profit organization that makes an incalculable difference to the lives of sick children. In addition, I would like to express my heartfelt appreciation to photographer Judi Swinks and stylist Nani Steele, whose creativity and talent speak for themselves in this new edition of The Wheat-Free Cook.
COPYRIGHT
A hardcover edition of this book was published in 2007 by William Morrow, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers.
THE WHEAT-FREE COOK. Copyright © 2007 by Jacqueline Mallorca. Illustrations copyright © 2007 by Jacqueline Mallorca. Photographs copyright © 2009 by Judi Swinks. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.
AER Edition © January 2009 ISBN: 9780061863998 Photographs were unavailable for the electronic edition. First William Morrow paperback edition published 2009.
The Library of Congress has cataloged the hardcover edition as follows: Mallorca, Jacqueline. The wheat-free cook: gluten-free recipes for everyone / Jacqueline Mallorca. p. cm. ISBN: 978-0-06-111988-0 ISBN-10: 0-06-111988-1 1. Gluten-free diet. 2. Gluten-free diet–Recipes. RM237.86 .M35 2007 641.5/638 22 2006046155 ISBN 978-0-06-166340-6 (pbk.) 09
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ABOUT THE PUBLISHER
Australia HarperCollins Publishers (Australia) Pty. Ltd. 25 Ryde Road (PO Box 321) Pymble, NSW 2073, Australia http://www.harpercollinsebooks.com.au Canada HarperCollins Publishers Ltd. 55 Avenue Road, Suite 2900 Toronto, ON, M5R, 3L2, Canada http://www.harpercollinsebooks.ca New Zealand HarperCollinsPublishers (New Zealand) Limited P.O. Box 1Auckland, New Zealand http://www.harpercollinsebooks.co.nz United Kingdom HarperCollins Publishers Ltd. 77-85 Fulham Palace Road London, W6 8JB, UK http://www.harpercollinsebooks.co.uk United States HarperCollins Publishers Inc. 10 East 53rd Street New York, NY 10022 http://www.harpercollinsebooks.com
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