Gluten - Wheat.free.pdf

Uploaded by: Emanuel Caragea
0
0

December 2019
PDF

This document was uploaded by user and they confirmed that they have the permission to share it. If you are author or own the copyright of this book, please report to us by using this DMCA report form. Report DMCA

Overview

Download & View Gluten - Wheat.free.pdf as PDF for free.

More details

Words: 27,989
Pages: 244

Preview
Full text

j^[

m^[Wj#\h[[ Yeea

j^[

m^[Wj#\h[[ Yeea TYbaR[S_RR _RPV]R` S\_ RcR_f\[R

`WYgk[b_d[cWbbehYW

S\_ PUbPX dVYYVNZ`

P\[aR[a`

1

_djheZkYj_ed

7

]bkj[d#\h[[]hW_di"\bekhi" WdZej^[h_d]h[Z_[dji

vi

19

Xh[Wa\Wij

35

[]]iWdZY^[[i[

47

l[][jWXb[iWdZ]hW_di

67

fWijW

83

X_hZi

111

c[WjWdZi[W\eeZ

129

Xh[WZi

149

Yeea_[iWdZXWhi

167

jWhjiWdZf_[i

187

YWa[iWdZZ[ii[hji

209

]bkj[d_djeb[hWdY[_d\ehcWj_ed%h[iekhY[i

211

cW_b#ehZ[hikffb_[hie\]bkj[d#\h[[\bekhi"]hW_di"dkji"WdZej^[h ]heY[h_[i

213

c[jh_YYedl[hi_edi

217

_dZ[n

231 232

WYademb[Z]c[dji copyright

233

about the publisher

Yedj[dji

l__

j^[

m^[Wj#\h[[ Yeea

V[a_\QbPaV\[

* ± 7 & " -8":4 -07&% $0 0, */( and baking in par ticular, so when I was told that I could no longer eat wheat in any form, I was taken aback. And the diet sheet I was given seemed calculated to bring on severe depression. Torn between outrage and laughter, I decided that if life had handed me a lemon, I was going to ﬁght back. I’d cook it. As anyone who is new to cooking without wheat or gluten soon discovers, it was a bit like exploring a foreign cuisine and using unfamiliar ingredients. However, being a food writer, I’m used to developing recipes, so I did have an advantage right out of the starting gate. Flours made from brown rice, quinoa, teff, chestnuts, almonds, and ﬂax began to ﬁll my freezer. Cakes, cookies, and tarts were no problem at all, and in fact often surpassed the originals made with wheat ﬂour. Gratifyingly, foodie friends and associates—knowledgeable cooks with critical palates—all chorused the same refrain: “Jackie, this is better than the wheat version. And lighter. Can I have the recipe?” Bread was another matter, at least in the early days. Gluten-free ﬂours lack structure: they don’t interact with leavening to create a light, airy loaf. The gluten-free bread one could buy was appalling, so I kept trying and ﬁnally hit upon the idea of returning to the small, round hearth breads of old. They have a crisp crust that contrasts with the soft interior, and being made with whole grains in true artisan style, they’re healthful as well as delicious. They are also very quick to stir together. Day-to-day cooking doesn’t need all that much tweaking to make it gluten-free. After all, it’s just as easy to thicken a comforting stew with rice ﬂour or cornstarch as it is with all-purpose ﬂour, and sautéed chicken breast tastes much better when coated with a mixture of ground hazelnuts and Parmesan than it ever did covered

'

in stale boxed bread crumbs. I’ve included a cross-section of recipes for everyday cooking and weekend entertaining that everyone at the table can relish, whether they’re gluten-sensitive or not. Cooking necessarily involves buying ingredients, and gluten-sensitive shoppers do have to become hawk-eyed label checkers. Wheat can turn up in the most unexpected places, like soy sauce, so you’ll ﬁnd a buyer’s guide on page 4. Be aware that “wheat free” doesn’t necessarily mean gluten-free. Happily, new labeling laws now coming into effect are making gluten-free shopping easier every day, and some chains, like Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s, offer pamphlets listing literally hundreds of gluten-free groceries, from corn spaghetti to Japanese tamari sauce. There is a world beyond wheat, and a very rewarding one at that. I have thoroughly enjoyed creating these recipes, and I hope that you—and your family and friends—will enjoy them too.

dURNa NY YR_Tf cR_`b` PRYVNP QV`RN`R A wheat allergy and celiac disease are not the same thing. When a person has a wheat allergy, his or her immune system has an abnormal reaction to the proteins in wheat. Other major food allergens include eggs, corn, ﬁsh and shellﬁsh, milk, peanuts, soy, and tree nuts. When someone with celiac disease eats food containing gluten, part of the protein found in wheat, barley, and rye, it triggers an immune-system attack on the lining of the small intestine. The resultant damage, which prevents the body from absorbing nutrients properly, can lead to diarrhea, fatigue, nausea and weight loss, and of course, malnutrition. Many health professionals believe that untreated celiac disease—which often has no symptoms—can lead to osteoporosis, anemia, infertility, and cancer. A related condition, dermatitis herpetiformis, causes a distinctive weepy, itchy rash that frequently appears on the hands, behind the knees, and inside the elbows. Unfortunately, a dermatologist will rarely suggest that it might be caused by something you ate.

(

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

Up until quite recently, it took an average of eleven years to get a correct diagnosis for celiac disease, partly because symptoms vary so much among individuals, and because it was thought to be a childhood ailment rarely seen in America. That point of view is changing. It is now estimated that celiac disease affects 0.5 percent to 1 percent of the U.S. population, or between 1.5 million to 3 million Americans. (In Finland, it’s 2 percent of the population; in Italy, 1.2 percent and in northern Ireland, .09 percent.) Diagnosis is often difﬁcult, as the symptoms can mimic other conditions such as Crohn’s disease, or be ascribed to irritable bowel syndrome. Blood tests can reveal celiac-related antibodies, but an intestinal biopsy is usually needed. Celiac disease is hereditary, though not all children of a parent with the disease will test positive. As with a food allergy, there is no cure other than avoiding the offending substance, at least so far. Still, this beats taking drugs with unknown long-term side effects. Although those of us with a wheat allergy or celiac disease must be vigilant about what we buy and eat, we don’t have to forgo favorites like pasta, bread, and cake. We can still eat well and entertain family and friends at the table, perhaps even better and more healthfully than ever before. Dining out also requires caution. Generous friends and relations who want to cook for you but are uncertain about the, um, gustatory limitations are no problem—just give them a copy of this book! Fast-food chains are generally offlimits, as the majority of their offerings involve wheat in one form or another. In any case, the food tends to arrive in those kitchens prepacked, and the staff has no idea what’s actually in it. But here too, government regulations that demand full disclosure are starting to come into effect. All those people diagnosed with celiac disease, plus millions of others with various food allergies, do have a certain amount of clout. As celiac disease becomes better known among the general public, even chains are starting to offer gluten-free specials. You’ll ﬁnd that the waiters in established restaurants are generally most helpful if you ask their advice about the menu, explaining with regret that you can’t eat anything containing wheat ﬂour in the

_djheZkYj_ed

)

sauce (or dusted on before browning), bread crumbs, croutons, or pasta. Chefs are nurturing people by nature, and will usually make a big effort to take care of you—and gain a happy repeat customer.

aUR

T YbaR[ S _RR `U\]]R_ *GZPV±SFOFXUPEJOJOHXFMMXJUIPVUXIFBUPSHMVUFO LFFQUIFGPMMPXJOH®EP±T EPO±UT BOE NBZCFT¯JONJOEXIFOHSPDFSZTIPQQJOH 'PSNBJMPSEFSTVQQMJFSTPGHMVUFOGSFFGPPET BOENJYFT BOEVTFGVMDPOUBDUJOGPSNBUJPOGPSHMVUFOJOUPMFSBODFTVQQPSUHSPVQTBOEPUIFS SFTPVSDFT TFFQBHF

:&4 "MMGSFTINFBUT TFBGPPE QPVMUSZ BOEFHHT¹TIDBOOFEJOPJM CSJOF PSXBUFSDVSFEPS DPPLFENFBUTMJLFQSPTDJVUUPBOEIBNNBOZTBVTBHFT CVUBMXBZTDIFDLUIFMBCFMT

"MMQMBJOGSVJUTBOEWFHFUBCMFT GSFTI GSP[FO PSDBOOFE QMBJOGSVJUKVJDFTGSFTIBOEESJFE IFSCTESJFECFBOT QFBT BOEMFOUJMTPMJWFT "MMQMBJOEBJSZQSPEVDUT JODMVEJOHNJML DSFBN BOECVUUFS4PVSDSFBN DPUUBHFDIFFTF BOEZPHVSUBSF¹OFJGUIFZDPOUBJOOPTVTQFDUUIJDLFOFST "MMUZQFTPGDIFFTF FYDFQUQSPDFTTFE

TVDIBT$IFEEBS 4XJTT 1BSNFTBO SJDPUUB HPBU±T BOETIFFQ±TNJMLDIFFTFT 0MJWFPJM DBOPMBPJM BOEPUIFSQVSFWFHFUBCMFPJMTNBSHBSJOF "MMWJOFHBST FYDFQUNBMUWJOFHBS

5BNBSJTBVDF JGCSFXFETPMFMZGSPNTPZCFBOT $IJDLFO CFFG BOEWFHFUBCMFCSPUIT JGUIFZDPOUBJOOPIZESPMJ[FEXIFBUQSPUFJOPSPUIFS TPVSDFPGHMVUFO +BNTBOEKFMMJFT IPOFZ TVHBS NPMBTTFT NBQMFTZSVQ DPSOTZSVQ 1MBJODIPDPMBUF EBSL NJML BOEXIJUF BOEDIPDPMBUFDIJQTQVSFDPDPBQPXEFS

*

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

1MBJOOVUTBOEOVUºPVSTQFBOVUCVUUFS 5FB DPGGFF BOEQVSFIPUDIPDPMBUFBOEDPDPB 1MBJOJDFDSFBNT GSP[FOZPHVSUT DIFDLUIFMBCFMT

TPSCFUT 3JDF BMMUZQFTXIJUF CSPXO DPOWFSUFE KBTNJOF CBTNBUJ "SCPSJP FUD

$PSO DPSONFBM NBTBIBSJOB HSJUT DPSOTUBSDI QPMFOUB QSFDPPLFEQPMFOUBSPMMT UPSUJMMBT FUD

0UIFS(SBJOT 4FFET 3PPUT BOE'MPVST "NBSBOUI BSSPXSPPU CVDLXIFBU LBTIB

ºBY NJMMFU QPUBUPTUBSDI QPUBUPºPVS RVJOPB TPSHIVN TPZ UBQJPDB NBOJPD

BOEUFGG 1BTUBNBEFGSPNSJDF DPSO CVDLXIFBU RVJOPB PSBOZPUIFSHMVUFOGSFFHSBJO"TJBOSJDF ºPVSBOENVOHCFBOOPPEMFT .JTDFMMBOFPVT*OHSFEJFOUT "OOBUUPDJUSJD NBMJD BOEMBDUJDBDJETHMVDPTFTZSVQHVBSHVNMFDJUIJONBMUPEFYUSJO B DPSOEFSJWBUJWF VOSFMBUFEUPCBSMFZNBMU QMBJOTQJDFTTVDSPTF EFYUSPTF BOEMBDUPTF CBLJOHQPXEFS CBLJOHTPEB BOEDSFBNPGUBSUBSQVSFWBOJMMBFYUSBDUBDUJWFESZZFBTU YBOUIBOHVN 8JOFT SFEBOEXIJUFGPSUJ¹FEXJOFTMJLFTIFSSZBMMEJTUJMMFEBMDPIPMJDCFWFSBHFTTVDIBT CSBOEZ SVN 4DPUDI UFRVJMB BOEWPELB . ": # & .PEJ¹FEGPPETUBSDISFTFBSDITVHHFTUTUIBUNPTUNPEJ¹FEGPPETUBSDIVTFEJOUIF6OJUFE 4UBUFTJTDPSOTUBSDI CVUTPNFNBZCFNPEJ¹FEXIFBUTUBSDI DPOUBDUUIFNBOVGBDUVSFSJG JOEPVCU

0BUT PBUTBSFUFDIOJDBMMZHMVUFOGSFF CVUNBZCFDPOUBNJOBUFEXJUIPUIFSHSBJOTTFF QBHF

.VTUBSET LFUDIVQT TBMBEESFTTJOHT BOEºBWPSFEZPHVSUT UIFTFQSPEVDUTBSFVTVBMMZ HMVUFOGSFF CVUBMXBZTSFBEUIFMBCFMT

1IBSNBDFVUJDBMT QIBSNBDFVUJDBMTBSFVTVBMMZHMVUFOGSFF CVUDIFDLUPNBLFTVSF

_djheZkYj_ed

+

/0 8IFBU BOEBOZUIJOHXJUIXIFBUJOJUTOBNFFYDFQUCVDLXIFBU BNJTOPNFS JUJTHMVUFO GSFF

BOEBOZGPSNPGXIFBU TVDIBTCVMHVS CSFBEºPVS DBLFºPVS DPVTDPVT EVSVN FJOLPSO FNNFS GBSJOB GBSSP LBNVU NBU[P TFNPMJOB TQFMU USJUJDBMF BOEXIFBUCSBO #SFBE QJ[[B IBNCVSHFSCVOT DPPLJFT DSBDLFST QSFU[FMT BOEPUIFSCBLFSZJUFNTNBEF GSPNXIFBU CBSMFZ PSSZFºPVS #SFBLGBTUDFSFBMT FYDFQUUIPTFNBSLFEHMVUFOGSFF &WFOTUBOEBSEDPSOºBLFTDPOUBJONBMU ºBWPSJOH XIJDIJTNBEFGSPNCBSMFZ

1BTUBNBEFGSPNXIFBU 'PPETDPOUBJOJOHNPEJ¹FEXIFBUTUBSDI IZESPMJ[FEXIFBUQSPUFJO NBMU ºBWPSJOH TZSVQ PSFYUSBDU

BOENBMUWJOFHBS .FBU QPVMUSZ TFBGPPE PSWFHFUBCMFTUIBUIBWFCFFOCSFBEFEPSºPVSFE PSBSFTFSWFEXJUI BTBVDFPSHSBWZUIJDLFOFEXJUIXIFBUºPVSPSNBSJOBUFEJOBNJYUVSFUIBUDPOUBJOTTPZ TBVDFPSUFSJZBLJTBVDF5IJTJODMVEFTNPTUGSP[FONFBMT GBTUGPPET TOBDLGPPET BOE EFMJUBLFPVUJUFNT $BOOFETPVQTBOEDIJDLFO CFFG BOEWFHFUBCMFCSPUITDPOUBJOJOHºPVSPSIZESPMJ[FE XIFBUQSPUFJO CBSMFZ PSQBTUB #FFS BTJUJTCSFXFEGSPNCBSMFZ)PXFWFS HMVUFOGSFFCFFSTNBEFJOUIF6OJUFE4UBUFT $BOBEB #SJUBJO BOE"VTUSBMJBBSFOPXBQQFBSJOHPOUIFNBSLFU )BQQJMZ HMVUFOGSFFTIPQQJOHCFDPNFTFBTJFSBMMUIFUJNF5IFOVNCFSPGNBOVGBDUVSFST NBLJOHHMVUFOGSFFGPPETJTJODSFBTJOHSBQJEMZ BOEOFXSFTFBSDIPGUFOTIJGUTGPPETGSPN UIF®NBZCF¯UPUIF®ZFT¯DBUFHPSZ'PSXFMMSFTFBSDIFE VQUPEBUFJOGPSNBUJPOBCPVU XIBU±TJOUIBUVTFEUPCFPVU SFBEUIFNBHB[JOF(MVUFO'SFF-JWJOHTFFQBHFGPS EFUBJMT

,

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

TYbaR[ S _RR T_NV[` SY\b_` N[Q \aUR_ V[T_RQVR[a`

8)&/ :06 -00, #& :0/% 8 )& "5 there’s a whole cornucopia of gluten-free grains, seeds, and nuts out there that have been cultivated since the dawn of civilization. Rice sustains more than half of the world’s population, and along with corn is the most obvious and useful alternative to wheat. In addition, there’s South American amaranth and quinoa, East African teff, Asian millet (revered by the ancient Chinese as one of their Five Sacred Grains and the most widely used grain in India today), and northern European buckwheat, which isn’t wheat at all but botanically related to rhubarb. Nuts such as walnuts, almonds, pecans, and chestnuts make wonderful ﬂour, as do dried beans. Even cocoa can be utilized as a form of ﬂour. I can’t claim that this is a comprehensive list, but it does include those ingredients most readily available in the United States. Some grains are best when used whole in pilafs, others shine when ground into ﬂour and used for baking, and most are good both ways. Nearly all of them are utilized as whole-grain ﬂours, with all their nutrients intact, and provide healthful complex carbohydrates and ﬁber as well as good ﬂavors. As a general rule, it’s best to buy nuts and gluten-free ﬂours in small quantities and store them in the freezer or refrigerator. Being completely natural, they contain no preservatives or other dubious additions. It’s advisable to buy gluten-free ﬂours that have been prepackaged in a dedicated facility. Open bins in natural foods stores can be cross-contaminated by other customers using a scoop from a neighboring bin containing, say, whole wheat ﬂour.

-

In your own kitchen, keep any gluten-containing products strictly segregated, and don’t share hard-to-clean items like a toaster, or let anyone put gluten-free bread or crackers on the same platter with those made from wheat. Even the tiny amount of gluten present in a few bread crumbs can cause trouble for celiacs. You can grind your own ﬂours from gluten-free whole grains, but it may be more trouble than it’s worth. I have an electronic grain mill, which makes more noise than the Concorde taking off. It used to send my late-lamented cat ﬂying from the kitchen with her fur standing on end. It does a good job, but wafts ﬂour over every surface. An electric coffee mill reserved for grinding things other than coffee is useful for reducing small quantities of ﬂaxeeds or nuts to ﬂour. A food processor simply whirls the former about, and tends to make nut paste from the latter unless you add rice ﬂour or sugar. I don’t blend my own supposedly allpurpose ﬂour mix, as most breads, cookies, tart shells, and cakes require different ratios of gluten-free ﬂours to be at their best. NYZ\[Q ZRNYSY\b_ Ground from whole almonds with the bran intact, this mellow, off-white ﬂour is invaluable for cakes and cookies. It is available ready ground, but unless you can ﬁnd a source with a high turnover—to ensure freshness—and reasonable prices (Trader Joe’s is a good source), it’s best to grind your own. An electric coffee mill reserved for grinding items other than coffee works pretty well. If you use a food processor, combining whole almonds with a little rice ﬂour or sugar, subtracted from the other ingredients listed in a recipe, helps to prevent turning the nuts into paste by mistake. Incidentally, 1 cup of whole almonds weighs 4 ounces. One cup of ready-ground almond meal weighs approximately 3 ounces. NZN_N[aU A tiny round grain known as the “mother grain” in the Inca empire, Amaranthus caudatus is not a true cereal, although it’s used like one. High in protein, calcium, iron, and ﬁber, the whole grains cook in 15 minutes or less.

.

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

N__\d_\\a `aN_PU Derived from the rhizomes of various tropical plants and generally used in North America as a thickener, this cornstarch-like product gives a glossy ﬁnish to sauces. Be cautious about utilizing it in cookie doughs, as too much will turn the baked cookies into cement. O_\d[ _VPR SY\b_ dUVaR _VPR SY\b_ The all-purpose workhorse of the gluten-free kitchen, ﬂour milled from brown rice is mellow in ﬂavor, nutritious, and generally invaluable. White rice ﬂour (not to be confused with Asian rice ﬂour, a silky powder) is milled from hulled rice. When used in baking, both brown rice ﬂour and white rice ﬂour are usually combined with cornstarch, potato starch, or tapioca starch to counteract their slightly coarse texture. ObPXdURNa ObPXdURNa SY\b_ Not wheat at all but a relative of rhubarb (the name is derived from the Dutch bockweit, as these triangular seeds were thought to resemble beech nuts), buckwheat is a hardy plant that manages to ﬂourish in poor soils and inhospitable climates. Famously used in Russian blini (pancakes) and Japanese soba noodles, buckwheat ﬂour is excellent in rustic ﬂatbreads. The whole grains or groats are made into kasha, a dish that corresponds to an Arabic pilaf or an Italian risotto. PUR`a[ba` PUR`a[ba SY\b_ The European chestnut, Castanea sativa, contains more starch and far less oil than any other tree nut, and makes a sweet-tasting ﬂour. Once used by poor peasants in rural Italy for making hearth breads and polenta, it’s more of a luxury food today. Whole chestnuts can serve as a starchy vegetable or a stufﬁng ingredient, or

]bkj[d#\ h[[]hW_di"\bekhi"WdZej^[h_d]h[Z_[dji

/

be turned into delicious desserts. They are available fresh, canned, frozen, vacuumpacked, and candied. For more information on chestnuts, see page 102. PUVPX]RN` PUVPX]RN SY\b_ Ground from dried chickpeas, or garbanzo beans as they are also known, chickpea ﬂour has a distinctive but pleasant ﬂavor, making it a good candidate for breads but not cakes. Universally popular Middle Eastern dishes like hummus and falafel are based on chickpeas, and the cuisine of India would be poorer without them. Garfava ﬂour is a proprietary blend of garbanzo and fava bean ﬂour. PU\P\YNaR Chocolate is derived from the seeds of cacao trees cultivated mainly in Latin America, West Africa, Indonesia, Malaysia, and the Caribbean. Depending on where they’re grown, cacao beans, like coffee beans, have distinct ﬂavor characteristics: fruity, ﬂoral, and so on. After harvesting, the beans undergo fermentation, when they start to develop their unique ﬂavors, and are then dried and graded. Chocolate manufacturers roast and hull the beans to free the meat, or nibs. These nibs are ground into chocolate liquor, a thick, nonalcoholic paste of cacao butter, a form of vegetable fat, and vegetable solids. Unsweetened chocolate is essentially solidiﬁed chocolate liquor with a high percentage of cacao butter. Bittersweet, semisweet, and milk chocolate contain increasing amounts of sugar, so the percentage of cacao butter decreases accordingly. White chocolate is cacao butter (often mixed with some other, cheaper fat) mixed with lots of sugar, milk solids, and vanilla, and tastes of dried milk powder. Dark chocolate and chocolate chips with at least 60 percent cacao butter are the best choice for baking—and eating—for their rich ﬂavor and silky smoothness. Ghirardelli’s 60 percent dark chocolate is an excellent buy, the thin bars are easy to chop and melt, and both the chocolate and Ghirardelli’s 60 percent chocolate chips give ﬁrst-rate results in baking.

'&

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

P\P\N ]\dQR_ Cocoa powder is made when chocolate liquor is pressed to extract about three-quarters of its cacao butter. (The correct spelling got mangled years ago.) The remaining solids are made into unsweetened cocoa powder, either natural or Dutch-processed. Natural unsweetened cocoa powder gives a deep, intense chocolate ﬂavor to baked goods, and is the form I prefer. Good brands include Hershey’s, Ghirardelli, and Scharffen Berger. Dutch-processed unsweetened cocoa is treated with an alkali to neutralize its natural acidity, has a more delicate ﬂavor, and dissolves easily in liquids. Valrhona and Droste are two excellent brands. Both natural and Dutch-processed cocoa make good gluten-free baking ingredients. P\_ [ P\_[ZRNY P\_ [`aN_PU Corn, more often known outside the United States as maize, is actually a kind of grass with huge seed heads, or cobs. Fresh sweet corn in season is a treat; popcorn is a perennial favorite as a snack; cornmeal remains an integral part of American cooking in the form of corn bread, grits, and tortillas; and Italian polenta has now become popular. Eating corn with beans creates a complementary mix of amino acids that raises the protein value. If possible, avoid labels that say “degerminated” when buying corn products; you want the whole grain. When used as a thickener for sauces, silky white cornstarch gives a glossy ﬁnish. Particularly useful in baking, it helps to smooth out the slightly coarse texture of many gluten-free ﬂours, but like its fellow starches, has little or no nutritional value. Cornstarch is generally interchangeable with potato starch and Asian rice ﬂour/sweet white rice ﬂour in baking. SYNe`RRQ` SYNeZRNY According to nutritionists, ﬂaxseeds are one of most nutritious plant foods on the planet. They contain more heart-healthy omega-3 oil than ﬁsh and more ﬁber than

]bkj[d#\ h[[]hW_di"\bekhi"WdZej^[h_d]h[Z_[dji

''

oats, and have a pleasantly nutty, grassy ﬂavor. You can grind your own using an electric coffee mill (a food processor just spins them around, as the outer coating is extremely hard), or buy preground ﬂaxmeal and store it in the freezer. Flaxmeal can lend suppleness as well as goodness to gluten-free breads, as it’s high in ﬂax oil. However, as always, consult your physician and nutritionist for their views about the nutritional and medical value of any so-called super food. See page 142 for more information about ﬂaxseeds. TN_ON[g\ SY\b_ See Chickpea Flour. TN_SNcN SY\b_ See Chickpea Flour. YR[aVY` YR[aVY SY\b_ One of the few dried pulses that don’t have to be soaked before cooking, brown, green and black lentils cook in about 35 minutes and make a tasty side dish. The little red ones are best for soup, as they quickly disintegrate. Various kinds of lentil ﬂour are much used in India for making poppadums, those crispy wafers that complement curries so well. (Imported poppadums are available, but read the label to make sure they are gluten-free.) Lentil ﬂour is good in ﬂatbreads, and lentil ﬂour “riso” makes a welcome addition to hearty soups. ZN[V\P SY\b_ See Tapioca Starch.

'(

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

ZVYYRa ZVYYRa SY\b_ One of the ﬁrst grains to be cultivated by man, perhaps 12,000 years ago, nutritious millet contains almost 15 percent protein. The leading staple grain in India, it is also popular in China, South America, Russia, and the Himalayas. It has a mellow, nutty ﬂavor and cooks in just 15 minutes, but few people in North America are familiar with it. Much too good to reserve for birdseed, millet makes an excellent pilaf or grain salad, especially when toasted before cooking to bring out its delicate ﬂavor. It also makes a good hot breakfast cereal with raisins and honey. Use the ﬂour mixed with other gluten-free ﬂours in breads and mufﬁns. Z\[aV[N Z\[aV[N SY\b_ Developed in Montana from Indian lovegrass, a hardy native plant that thrives in poor soils, this high protein grain yields good ﬂour for gluten-free baking. [ba` [ba SY\b_` A storehouse of vitamins, minerals, and ﬁber as well as being good to eat at any time, almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, and walnuts make luxurious gluten-free ﬂours. True, most nuts are also high in oil, but it’s the heart-healthy, mono- or polyunsaturated kind. When nuts are ground, the ﬂavorful oil content can take the place of butter in baking; just as the starchy part stands in for ﬂour. Nutrient-rich peanuts are not true nuts but legumes. \Na` \Na SY\b_ \NaZRNY Oats do not contain gluten, despite long-standing claims to the contrary. Oats, however, are particularly subject to cross-contamination by other grains in the ﬁeld, or during the milling and packing process in a plant that also handles other grains. In a recent newsletter published by the Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University, readers were advised that multiple studies in Europe and the United States show

TYbaR[S _RR T_NV[` SY\b_` N[Q \aUR_ V[T_RQVR[a`

that the majority of people with celiac disease tolerate oats. Reliably gluten-free oats are available by mail order from the Gluten-Free Oats Company in Powell, Wyoming, and Cream Hill Estates in La Salle, Quebec (see pages 211–12). Aside from the fact that oatmeal tastes delicious, scientiﬁc studies have shown that oats contain a special form of ﬁber, beta-glucan, found to be effective in lowering LDL cholesterol. ]\aNa\ SY\b_ This is a heavy, strongly ﬂavored ﬂour sometimes added to bread in small amounts. Don’t confuse it with potato starch, which is far more useful. ]\aNa\ `aN_PU A silky white starch with a texture like talcum powder that’s useful as a thickener, potato starch is interchangeable with cornstarch and Asian rice ﬂour/sweet white rice ﬂour for smoothing out the slightly coarse texture of whole-grain brown rice ﬂour. ^bV[\N ^bV[\N SYNXR` ^bV[\N SY\b_ Along with amaranth, high-protein quinoa helped to sustain the vast Inca empire before the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, who banned its cultivation for religious and political reasons. Botanically related to Swiss chard and beets, the whole grains make excellent pilafs and hearty salads; the ﬂour—used in conjunction with other gluten-free ﬂours—is good in breads. Quinoa ﬂakes make a mellow, highprotein addition to homemade muesli, stufﬁngs, and meat loaves, and can be cooked like oatmeal. Most quinoa must be rinsed before cooking to remove the residue of bitter saponins, the plant’s defense against insects. _VPR Rice, Oryza sativa, sustains more than half of the world’s population. There are hundreds of varieties, but all of them fall into two main camps: Indica rice, which is dry

'*

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

and separate, and Vaponica rice, which sticks together. The former is ﬂufﬁer when cooked (think of pilaf); the latter contains more starch and is generally gummier and creamier (think of creamy risotto or rice pudding.) Whole, or brown, rice contains complex carbohydrates, thiamin, riboﬂavin, niacin, phosphorus, iron, potassium, and ﬁber. White rice is reﬁned, with the germ and bran removed. In the United States, most reﬁned white rice found on grocery shelves is enriched with at least some of the nutrients lost during processing, but not the ﬁber. Converted rice is parboiled before reﬁning, a process that forces some of the B vitamins into the endosperm so they are not lost when the bran is polished off, but it’s still not as healthful as brown rice. Some round-grain rice varieties, like Italian Arborio and Spanish Calasparra, are especially good for absorbing ﬂavorful broths during cooking while simultaneously retaining their shape. All kinds of rice are gluten-free, from Uncle Ben’s to the exotic ones like Bhutanese red rice and Japanese black rice. Glutinous rice, spelled with an “i,” is another term for sticky rice. It does not contain gluten. _VPR SY\b_ N`VN[ Not the same product as rice ﬂour milled from brown or white rice, silky white rice starch is interchangeable with cornstarch as a thickener, and as a mixer in gluten-free baking. `\_TUbZZVY\ A hardy, gluten-free mild-tasting grain believed to have originated in Africa, sorghum can be utilized like oatmeal, and is available as ﬂour. `\f SY\b_ Like most bean ﬂours, yellow soy ﬂour has a pronounced ﬂavor. A cheap source of protein, it is used extensively in the food industry in everything from frozen desserts to meat loaf. A small amount can be used in gluten-free breads, but it makes them dense.

TYbaR[S _RR T_NV[` SY\b_` N[Q \aUR_ V[T_RQVR[a`

'+

`dRRa _VPR SY\b_`aN_PU Milled from glutinous or sticky white rice, this neutral-tasting (not sweet) starch has a slightly sticky quality that can be handy for baking when used in combination with other gluten-free ﬂours, as it helps to retain moisture. aN]V\PN `aN_PU A favorite for bread baking when combined with other gluten-free ﬂours, tapioca starch lends a chewy, slightly elastic quality. Also known as cassava or manioc and derived from a root, the whole “pearls” and granulated tapioca can be made into a milk-based pudding. aRSS SY\b_ Tiny, highly nutritious teff, the staple grain of Ethiopia and Eritrea, is now cultivated successfully in the United States. Available as ivory or brownish ﬂour at some natural foods stores and by mail order, teff ﬂour has a sweet, molasseslike ﬂavor and makes exceptional gluten-free brownies, cookies, and gingerbread. It can also be cooked like porridge for breakfast. A form of millet, it contains over twice the iron of other grains and twenty times the calcium: one cup of cooked teff contains more calcium (387 mg) than a cup of milk. dVYQ _VPR This is not a true rice at all, but the long, dark brown, slightly smoky-ﬂavored seed of an aquatic grass indigenous to the Great Lakes region. A luxury food that is usually blended with other types of rice because of its high price and assertive though delicious ﬂavor, wild rice has twice the protein and ﬁber of brown rice, but not as much iron and calcium.

',

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

eN[aUN[ TbZ Derived from corn sugar, this white powder looks a lot like baking powder and is used in similar amounts, so an admittedly rather costly 8-ounce bag goes a long way. Invaluable in gluten-free bread baking, it provides elasticity and helps to prevent dryness and crumbling. A very small quantity also beneﬁts shortcrust pastry and some cakes and cookies, which can otherwise be too fragile. It can be found in natural foods stores, including Whole Foods, some supermarkets, and on the Web via sources such as Bob’s Red Mill, and it keeps at room temperature.

TYbaR[S _RR T_NV[` SY\b_` N[Q \aUR_ V[T_RQVR[a`

17

Xh[Wa\W ij (*7&/ 5)& 13& 7" -&/$& 0' # 09&% $&3& " - 4 toast, bagels, and doughnuts on the average American morning menu, going wheat-free sounds difﬁcult, if not impossible. In fact, breakfast bars and mufﬁns made with alternative grains are delicious, not to mention good for your health. Rice Flour English Mufﬁns (page 135) freeze well and can be thawed and toasted whenever you please; toasty homemade muesli is another option. A weekend brunch, when there’s time to linger, can include indulgences like pancakes, warm apple crumble, or an almond ﬂour coffee cake like Grandma never made.

19

f\Tb_a²_VPR SY\b_ ]N[PNXR`

" (-6 5 &/ ' 3&& # "5 5 &3 makes exceptionally tender pancakes, and cooking them on an ungreased nonstick griddle ensures a ﬁne surface texture. It also prevents the aroma of burned butter from permeating your kitchen. The recipe can be doubled easily.

9ecX_d[j^[h_Y[Åekh"ik]Wh"iWbj"WdZXWa_d]ieZW$?dW i[fWhWj[Xemb"c_nj^[[]]"YWdebWe_b"WdZoe]khj$7ZZ jej^[Zho_d]h[Z_[djiWdZij_hkdj_biceej^$J^[XWjj[h m_bb beea j^_Ya WdZ fk\\o$ >[Wj W ^[Wlo dedij_Ya ia_bb[j eh]h_ZZb[el[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj"XkjZedej]h[Wi[_j$ 7ZZj^[XWjj[hXoj^[^[Wf[ZjWXb[ifeed\kb"ifWY_d]j^[ fWdYWa[i ' _dY^ WfWhj WdZ ÅWjj[d_d] j^[ XWjj[h W b_jjb[ m_j^j^[XWYae\j^[ifeed$9eeakdj_b]ebZ[dedXej^ i_Z[i"(c_dkj[iehb[ii$IjWYaed^[Wj[ZfbWj[ieha[[f mWhc_dWbemel[d$

DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

UFBTQPPOTVHBS 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB MBSHFFHH UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML ZPHVSU

N

. BLFTU ISFFJ ODI QBODBLFT

O_RNXSN`a

21

_VPR SY\b_ P_|]R`

MBSHFFHHT 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU 1JODIPGTVHBS DVQNJML DVQXIJUFSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI UBCMFTQPPOTNFMUFE CVUUFS QMVTFYUSBGPS TLJMMFU

N

((

. BLFTBQQSPYJNBUFMZ

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

6/-*,& " $3Á1& # "5 5 &3 made with wheat ﬂour, which has to stand for a while to let the gluten relax, this one can be used immediately. Quick to make and extremely versatile, crêpes can contain savory or sweet ﬁllings, from Italian beef ragù (page 73) to applesauce. They can be made ahead and refrigerated or frozen.

?d W Xb[dZ[h eh \eeZ fheY[iieh" YecX_d[ j^[ []]i" iWbj"ik]Wh"WdZc_ba$FheY[iijeXb[dZ$7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh WdZYehdijWhY^"WdZfheY[iikdj_biceej^$Fekh_djeW XembWdZij_h_dj^[Xkjj[h$J^[j[njkh[i^ekbZX[b_a[j^_d Yh[Wc$Ij_heYYWi_edWbbom^_b[cWa_d]j^[Yhf[i"WZZ_d] Wb_jjb[mWj[h_\j^[XWjj[hX[Yec[ijeej^_Ya$ >[WjWd.#_dY^dedij_Yaia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj"WdZ ]h[Wi[b_]^jbom_j^Xkjj[h$Ded[[Zjeh[f[Wjj^_iij[f$ Ki_d]WicWbbc[Wikh_d]Ykf"bWZb[WXekj(jWXb[ifeedi e\j^[XWjj[h_djej^[fWd"j_bj_d]j^[fWdXoj^[^WdZb[ je Yel[h j^[ Xejjec$ M^[d b_]^jbo Xhemd[Z" WXekj ' c_dkj["jkhdm_j^WdobedifWjkbWWdZYeea\ehW\khj^[h )& i[YedZi$ IjWYa j^[ Yhf[i ed W fbWj[ m_j^ j^[ m[bb# Xhemd[Zi_Z[Zemd$ JeÄbbWdZhebb"fbWY[WXekj'À)Ykfe\oekhY^ei[dÄbb_d] Zemdj^[Y[dj[he\j^[fWb[hi_Z[e\[WY^Yhf[$Hebbkf b_a[WY_]Whm_j^j^[Xhemd[Zi_Z[ekj$JhWdi\[hjeWfbWj[ ehXWa_d]Z_i^m_j^j^[i[Wci_Z[Zemd$

O_\d[ _VPR SY\b_
O_RNXSN`a

23

_VPR O_N[ N[Q _NV`V[ ZbSSV[`

DVQSJDFCSBO DVQSBJTJOT DVQTNJML UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS TPGUFOFE DVQQBDLFEEBSL CSPXOTVHBS MBSHFFHH DVQIPOFZ DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI UBCMFTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU DVQTMJDFEBMNPOET PQUJPOBM N

(*

. BLFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5 36 5 ) 50 5 &- - 5 )&3&± 4 not much difference between the average American mufﬁn and a British cupcake. These mufﬁns are of the more restrained plain variety, and are delicious with butter and marmalade. Like all mufﬁns, they should be served warm. By the way, aluminum foil mufﬁn cups will stand unaided on a baking sheet, and baked mufﬁns don’t stick to them.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *&&<$ =h[Wi[ ck\Äd fWdi eh b_d[ m_j^ YkfYWa[ fWf[hi$ 7bj[hdWj_l[bo" fbWY[ '* Åkj[Z Wbkc_dkc\e_bck\ÄdYkfiedWXWa_d]i^[[j" 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ XhWd" hW_i_di" WdZ c_ba _d W bWh][ Xemb"WdZb[jijWdZ\eh'&c_dkj[i$ 9h[Wc j^[ Xkjj[h WdZ Xhemd ik]Wh je][j^[h kdj_b Åk\\o"j^[dX[Wj_dj^[[]]WdZ^ed[okdj_biceej^$Ij_h _djej^[h_Y[XhWd·c_bac_njkh[$9ecX_d[j^[h_Y[Åekh" YehdijWhY^" XWa_d] femZ[h" WdZ iWbj" WdZ i_\j _dje j^[ XWjj[h$Ij_hm[bbjec_n"WdZifeed_djej^[ck\ÄdYkfi" Äbb_d]j^[cjme#j^_hZi\kbb$Jef m_j^ ib_Y[Z WbcedZi" _\ ki_d]$ 8Wa[ kdj_b ]ebZ[d Xhemd WdZ h_i[d"(+c_dkj[i$I[hl[mWhc$

a\N`aRQ ^bV[\N ZbR`YV

.6& 4-* 8" 4 03*(*/ " - -: $3& "5 &% in Switzerland about a century ago by Dr. Max Bircher-Benner, who served soaked raw oat ﬂakes, nuts, and grated apple to patients at his natural health clinic in Zurich. A dear German friend, Inge Roberts, introduced me to her more luxurious version. She uses oats (see page 13 for more information on their gluten-free status); toasted quinoa ﬂakes taste equally good. The recipe can be multiplied ad inﬁnitum.

9ecX_d[ j^[ f[YWdi" Wffb[" WdZ hW_i_di _d W \eeZ fhe# Y[iiehWdZfkbi[jecWa[WY^kdaoiWkY[$7ZZj^[gk_deW ÅWa[i"WdZfkbi[Xh_[Åojec_n$:_l_Z[X[jm[[d(Xembi" WdZjefm_j^j^[ib_Y[ZXWdWdWWdZoe]khj$:h_ppb[m_j^ X[hhoiWkY[eh^ed[o$

DVQDIPQQFEQFDBOT

PSTMJDFE UPBTUFE BMNPOET BQQMF VOQFFMFE DPSFE BOEDIPQQFE UBCMFTQPPOTSBJTJOT DVQRVJOPBºBLFT MJHIUMZUPBTUFEJOBESZ TLJMMFU CBOBOB TMJDFE DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML ZPHVSU UBCMFTQPPOTCFSSZ TBVDFPSIPOFZ

N

4 FSWFT

O_RNXSN`a

25

SVT ^ bV[\N O_RNXSN`a ON_`

MBSHFFHHT DVQDBOPMBPJM UBCMFTQPPOEBSL NPMBTTFT UBCMFTQPPOT4FWJMMF PSBOHFNBSNBMBEFPS BQSJDPUKBN UP PVODFT TPGU ESJFE$BMJNZSOBPS #MBDL.JTTJPO¹HT TUFNTSFNPWFE ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE DVQRVJOPBºBLFT DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO HVN UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU DVQTVHBS DVQ PVODFT XBMOVUTPSQFDBOT DIPQQFE N

(,

. BLFTCBST

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

,/08 / " 4 '*( *4 " "$ 4 to my nearest and dearest, these nutritious bars are addictive. Like the Gingerbread-Flax Bars that follow, they freeze well and make excellent brown-bag fare.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )-+<$ =h[Wi[ j^[ i_Z[i e\ Wd .#_dY^ igkWh[ XWa_d] fWd WdZ b_d[ j^[ XWi[ m_j^ fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ 8[Wj j^[ []]i m_j^ j^[ YWdebW e_b" cebWii[i" WdZ cWhcWbWZ[kdj_biceej^$Ij_h_dj^[Ä]i$ 9ecX_d[j^[gk_deWÅWa[i"h_Y[Åekh"nWdj^Wd]kc" XWa_d]femZ[h"iWbj"ik]Wh"WdZmWbdkji_dWXemb$7ZZ j^[ Ä] c_njkh[" WdZ ij_h m[bb je c_n$ J^[ XWjj[h m_bb X[ ij_\\$JhWdi\[hjej^[fWd"iceej^j^[jef"WdZXWa[kdj_b b_]^j]ebZWdZib_]^jboh_i[d"'.je(&c_dkj[i$B[Wl[_d j^[fWd\eh+c_dkj[i"beei[dj^[i_Z[im_j^Wad_\["j^[d jkhdekjedjeWm_h[hWYa$F[[be\\j^[fWf[h"WdZb[jYeeb Yecfb[j[bo"h_]^ji_Z[kf$9kj_d^Wb\"j^[dib_Y[[WY^^Wb\ _dje,XWhi$

TV[TR_O_RNQ S YNe ON_`

" / 05 )&3 ) " 11 : " -5 &3/ "5 * 7 & 50 commercially made breakfast bars, these bar cookies are reminiscent of French pain d’ épice, or spice bread. Wrap them individually and freeze for breakfasts on the run.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$=h[Wi[jmeeffei_j[i_Z[i e\Wd.#_dY^igkWh[XWa_d]fWdWdZb_d[j^[XWi[WdZj^[ ej^[hjmei_Z[im_j^Wi^[[je\fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ ÅWnc[Wb" h_Y[ Åekh" WbcedZ c[Wb" jWf_eYWÅekh"XWa_d]femZ[h"XWa_d]ieZW"nWdj^Wd]kc" Y_ddWced"Wbbif_Y["]_d][h"WdZiWbj_dWXemb$?\ki_d] m^eb[WbcedZi"YecX_d[_dW\eeZfheY[iiehWdZfhe# Y[iijeWÄd[c[Wb$ 8[Wj j^[ YWdebW e_b" cebWii[i" Xhemd ik]Wh" c_ba" WdZ[]]ije][j^[h$7ZZjej^[Åekhc_njkh["WdZX[Wjje YecX_d[ m[bb$ JhWdi\[h j^[ XWjj[h je j^[ fWd" WdZ XWa[ kdj_bj^[]_d][hXh[WZ_iWi^_doXhemdWdZijWhjijefkbb WmWo \hec j^[ i_Z[i" WXekj (+ c_dkj[i$ B[Wl[ _d j^[ fWd\eh+c_dkj[i"j^[dbeei[dj^[kdb_d[Zi_Z[ie\j^[ ]_d][hXh[WZm_j^Wad_\[WdZjkhdekjedjeWm_h[hWYa$ F[[be\\j^[fWf[h"WdZb[jYeebYecfb[j[bo$ 9kj _d ^Wb\" j^[dib_Y[[WY^^Wb\_dje,XWhi$

DVQºBYNFBM DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQBMNPOENFBM PS DVQXIPMFBMNPOET

DVQUBQJPDBºPVS

UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN UFBTQPPOHSPVOE DJOOBNPO UFBTQPPOHSPVOE BMMTQJDF UFBTQPPOHSPVOE HJOHFS 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU UBCMFTQPPOTDBOPMBPJM UBCMFTQPPOTEBSL NPMBTTFT UBCMFTQPPOTEBSL CSPXOTVHBS DVQNJML MBSHFFHHT N

. BLFTCBST

O_RNXSN`a

27

`]VPRQ N]]YR P_ bZOYR

PS QPVOET (SBOOZ4NJUIPS QJQQJOBQQMFT QFFMFE DPSFE IBMWFE BOE DVUJOUPJODIUIJDL TMJDFT (SBUFE[FTUPGTNBMM PSBOHF UBCMFTQPPOTGSFTI PSBOHFKVJDF DVQTVHBS UBCMFTQPPOTCSPXO SJDFºPVS UFBTQPPOHSPVOE DMPWFT

N

(.

4 FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5 )*4 /04 5" -(*$ %& 44&3 5 . " , & 4 a surprise—and always popular—appearance on a brunch table. Slicing the apples extra thin and tossing them in a little rice ﬂour and sugar promotes an ideal texture. Start the crumble early: it has to cool down a bit before you serve it. Accompany with Honeyed Yogurt (page 29) or whipped cream.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *+&<$ 8kjj[h Wd . s '&#_dY^ Y[hWc_YXWa_d]Z_i^$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ Wffb[i m_j^ j^[ ehWd][ p[ij" ehWd][ `k_Y["ik]Wh"h_Y[Åekh"WdZYbel[i$C_n][djbom_j^oekh ^WdZiWdZjhWdi\[hjej^[XWa_d]Z_i^$ <eh j^[ jeff_d]0 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh" mWbdkji" ik]Wh"dkjc[]"WdZiWbj$7ZZj^[Xkjj[hWdZc_nm_j^W fWijho Xb[dZ[h eh oekh Äd][hj_fi kdj_b j^[ X_ji e\ Xkjj[h Wh[ j^[ i_p[ e\ icWbb f[Wi$ Ifh[WZ j^[ c_njkh[[l[dboedjefe\ j^[Wffb[i$ 8Wa[ \eh '+ c_dkj[i" j^[d h[ZkY[ j^[ ^[Wj je )+&< WdZ XWa[ \eh )& c_dkj[ibed][hkdj_bj^[

jeff_d]_i]ebZ[dXhemdWdZj^[Wffb[iWh[j[dZ[h$?\_j¼i dejXhemd[dek]^"ib_Z[j^[Z_i^kdZ[hW^ejXhe_b[h\eh Wc_dkj[ehjme$B[jYeebjebka[mWhcX[\eh[i[hl_d]$

U\[RfRQ f\Tb_ a M^_ia)je*jWXb[ifeediYb[Wh^ed[oWdZ 'À*j[Wifeed lWd_bbW[njhWYj_dje(YkfifbW_dm^eb[c_baoe]khj$ JecWa[[njhW#j^_Ya=h[[a#ijob[oe]khj"i[[fW]['--$

t opping DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE XBMOVUT DVQTVHBS UFBTQPPOOVUNFH QSFGFSBCMZGSFTIMZ HSBUFE PSHSPVOE DJOOBNPO 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS DPME DVUVQ

O_RNXSN`a

29

]\]]f `RRQ N[Q PVa_ b` Y\NS

UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS TPGUFOFE DVQTVHBS ;FTUPGTNBMMPSBOHF UBCMFTQPPOMFNPO KVJDF MBSHFFHHT UPUBCMFTQPPOT QPQQZTFFET DVQXIJUFSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOTCBLJOH QPXEFS -BSHFQJODIPGOVUNFH QSFGFSBCMZGSFTIMZ HSBUFE UBCMFTQPPOTNJML N

)&

4 FSWFTUP

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5)*4 3&$*1& .",&4 &*5)&3 one loaf cake or a dozen tender mufﬁns that can be frozen and reheated. It’s best to buy poppy seeds in bulk at a natural foods store and keep them in the freezer, where they won’t go stale or rancid. Buying them in little glass spice bottles is surprisingly expensive.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ =h[Wi[ Wd . s *#_dY^ beW\ fWd WdZ b_d[ j^[ XWi[ m_j^ fWhY^c[dj fWf[h$ 7bj[hdWj_l[bo"]h[Wi[W'(#Ykfck\ÄdfWdehWhhWd]['( Åkj[ZWbkc_dkc\e_bck\ÄdYkfiedWXWa_d]i^[[j$ ?dWbWh][Xemb"X[Wjj^[Xkjj[hWdZik]Whkdj_bb_]^j WdZÅk\\o$=hWj[j^[p[ije\\j^[ehWd][h_]^j_djej^[ Xemb" je YWjY^ j^[ WhecWj_Y ifhWo e\ ehWd][ e_b$ 7ZZ j^[b[ced`k_Y[$8[Wj_dj^[[]]ied[WjWj_c["j^[dWZZ j^[feffoi[[Zi$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh" YehdijWhY^" iWbj" XWa_d] femZ[h" WdZ dkjc[]$ 8[Wj _dje j^[ XWjj[h W b_jjb[ Wj W

j_c[kdj_biceej^$8[Wj_dj^[c_ba$Ifeed_djej^[beW\ fWd"iceej^j^[jef"WdZYkjWjh[dY^Zemdj^[Y[dj[h je c_d_c_p[ YhWYa_d]$ 8Wa[ kdj_b b_]^jbo Xhemd[Z WdZ Wd_di[hj[Zjeej^f_Ya[c[h][iYb[Wd"WXekj)+c_dkj[i$ B[Wl[_dj^[fWd\eh'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[kdcebZ_d]"WdZ b[jYeebh_]^ji_Z[kfedWm_h[hWYa$?\cWa_d]ck\Ädi" XWa[kdj_b]ebZ[d"WXekj((c_dkj[i$

O_RNXSN`a

31

NYZ\[Q ] YbZ _VPR SY\b_ P\SSRR PNXR TPGUQJUUFEQSVOFT DVUJORVBSUFST ;FTUPGMFNPO DVUJO JODIXJEFTUSJQT DVQTVHBS MBSHFFHHT DVQBMNPOENFBM PSDVQXIPMF BMNPOET

DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS

N

)(

4 FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

136/& 4 )"7& $0.& 61 in the world. They are now referred to, by the Sunsweet growers in California at any rate, as dried plums. Whatever you choose to call them, prunes are generously endowed with ﬁber and potassium, and they make this rich-tasting but butterless cake moist and naturally sweet.

>[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ 8kjj[h j^[ i_Z[i e\ W /#_dY^hekdZYWa[fWd"WdZb_d[j^[XWi[m_j^WY_hYb[e\ fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ FbWY[j^[fhkd[i"b[cedp[ij"WdZ(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[ ik]Wh_dW\eeZfheY[iieh$FheY[iikdj_b[l[dbo]hekdZ$ 7ZZ'e\j^[[]]iWdZfheY[iijeXb[dZ"iYhWf_d]Zemd j^[XembWid[[Z[Z$ C_nj^[WbcedZc[Wb"h_Y[Åekh"WdZXWa_d]femZ[h je][j^[h" WdZ i[j Wi_Z[$ ?\ ki_d] m^eb[ WbcedZi" YecX_d[ _d W \eeZ fheY[iieh WdZ fheY[ii je W Äd[ c[Wb$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ h[cW_d_d] ) []]i WdZ ik]Wh _d W Xemb$ 8[Wj Wj ^_]^ if[[Z je j^[ j^_Ya h_XXed ijW][" -c_dkj[i$ Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"ifeed^Wb\j^[fhkd[c_njkh[ WhekdZ j^[ [Z][ e\ j^[ Xemb WdZ \ebZ _d" \ebbem[Z Xo ^Wb\j^[Åekhc_njkh[$H[f[Wjm_j^j^[h[cW_dZ[h$@kij Zkcf_d]_jWbbedjefmekbZZ[ÅWj[j^[XWjj[h$JhWdi\[h

jej^[fh[fWh[ZfWd"iceej^j^[jef"WdZXWa[kdj_bj^[ YWa[_i]ebZ[dWdZi^h_daiWmWoib_]^jbo\hecj^[[Z][ e\j^[fWdWdZWd_di[hj[Zjeej^f_Ya[c[h][iYb[Wd")& c_dkj[i$B[jYeeb_dj^[fWd\eh+c_dkj[i"j^[dkdcebZ WdZf[[be\\j^[XWa_d]fWhY^c[dj$B[jYeeb"h_]^ji_Z[ kf"edWm_h[hWYa$:kijm_j^Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]WhX[\eh[ i[hl_d]$

O_RNXSN`a

33

[] ]iWdZ Y^[[i[ '03 4 "5 *4' : */ ( 0 ''5 )&4 )&- ' ( -6 5 &/ ' 3&& .& " - 4 consider the egg. Perfectly packaged by Mother Nature, eggs will keep refrigerated for a month after the lay date, they’re rich in protein and vitamins, and they team beautifully with cheese. All cheeses are gluten-free (except processed cheese, which can have all kinds of odd ingredients), with Parmigiano-Reggiano, cave-aged Swiss Gruyère, and sharp Cheddar topping my list of favorites for cooking.

)+

P_RNZf a\ZNa\ N[Q RTT Pb__ f 5 )*4 7 &(& 5" 3*" / %*4) ) " 4 lots of ﬂavor and is a great standby when there’s no time for grocery shopping. Crispy imported Indian lentil ﬂour poppadums make the perfect foil, and can be heated and puffed in a microwave oven. (They are traditionally gluten-free, but check the label.) Look for aromatic cardamom seeds in the spice department of a supermarket or natural foods store. They come encased in white or green pods.

>[Wj j^[ YWdebW e_b _d W ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj kdj_b _j i^_cc[hi$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_edi WdZ Yeea" ij_hh_d] e\j[d" kdj_b jhWdibkY[dj WdZ ijWhj_d] je jkhd ]ebZ[d" - c_dkj[i$Ij_h_dj^[]Whb_Y"YkhhofemZ[h"WdZYWhZWcec i[[Zi"WdZYeea\eh)&i[YedZikdj_b\hW]hWdj$7ZZj^[ jecWje[i"_dYbkZ_d]j^[`k_Y["j^[]WhXWdpeX[Wdi"WdZ )À*YkfmWj[h$8h_d]jeWXe_b"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"WdZ i_cc[h"kdYel[h[Z"je\ehcWj^_YaiWkY["(&c_dkj[i$ 7ZZWb_jjb[ceh[mWj[h_\j^[iWkY[Wff[WhijeX[Zho_d] ekj$H[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj"jWij["WdZWZZiWbj_\d[[Z[Z$ Ij_h_dj^[oe]khj$ I^[bbWdZ^Wbl[j^[[]]i"WdZ][djboij_h_djej^[iWkY[$ I[hl[m_j^h_Y["Y^kjd[o"WdZfeffWZkci"_\ki_d]$

UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM POJPOT BCPVU PVODFTFBDI

IBMWFEBOEUIJOMZ TMJDFE HBSMJDDMPWFT UIJOMZ TMJDFE UFBTQPPOTDVSSZ QPXEFSPSUPUBTUF UFBTQPPODBSEBNPN TFFET DBO PVODFT EJDFEUPNBUPFT DVQDPPLFEPSDBOOFE HBSCBO[PCFBOT SJOTFEBOEESBJOFE 'JOFTFBTBMU PQUJPOBM DVQQMBJOXIPMF NJMLZPHVSU BUSPPN UFNQFSBUVSF MBSHFFHHT IBSECPJMFE $PPLFEMPOHHSBJOXIJUF SJDF .BOHPPSQFBDI DIVUOFZ 8BSNQPQQBEVNT PQUJPOBM N

4 FSWFT

RTT` N[Q PURR`R

37

-ANBA?PHU KKGA@%=N@KEHA@"CCO

FbWY[j^[[]]i_dWiWkY[fWd"Yel[hm_j^YebZmWj[h"WdZ Xh_d]jeWXe_b$9el[hj^[fWd"h[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj"WdZ b[jijWdZ\eh'(c_dkj[i$J^[oebaiWim[bbWij^[m^_j[i m_bbX[ÄhcWbbj^[mWoj^hek]^"WdZ`kijh_]^j$

).

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

T\Na PURR`R N[Q ]\aNa\

\ ]R[ S NPRQ \ZRYRa :0 6 ±-- /&&% -&' 507&3 # 0*-&% potatoes for this creamy omelet, which can be tossed together in a few minutes. The skillet bread on page 143 and a green salad go well here.

8[Wj j^[ []]i _d W bWh][ Xemb WdZ i[j Wi_Z[$ >[Wj j^[eb_l[e_b_dW'&#_dY^el[dfhee\ia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc ^[Wj"WdZ\hoj^[fejWje[iWdZed_edkdj_b]ebZ[d",je- c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[]Whb_Y"WdZYeea\eh'c_dkj[$H[cel[ \hecj^[^[Wj"ij_h_dj^[X[bbf[ff[hiWdZfWhib[o"WdZ b[jYeeb\eh+c_dkj[i$J_f_djej^[X[Wj[d[]]i"ij_hh_d] jei[fWhWj[j^[fejWjeib_Y[i"WdZi[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZ f[ff[h$Fh[^[Wjj^[Xhe_b[h$ H[jkhd j^[ ia_bb[j je c [Z_kc#bem ^[Wj" WZZ j^[ Xkjj[h"WdZ^[Wjkdj_b\eWc_d]$Fekh_dj^[[]]c_njkh[ WdZYeeakdZ_ijkhX[Z\eh)c_dkj[i$Jefm_j^j^[]eWj Y^[[i["WdZib_Z[kdZ[hj^[Xhe_b[h\eh'je(c_dkj[i"eh kdj_bj^[[]]iWh[`kiji[jedjef$ :ed¼j el[hYeea eh j^[Y^[[i[X[Yec[i jek]^$ =Whd_i^ m_j^ XWi_b"_\ki_d]$

MBSHFFHHT UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM NFEJVNSFEPSXIJUF QPUBUPFT QFFMFE CPJMFE BOETMJDFE DPME TNBMMPOJPO ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE HBSMJDDMPWF NJODFE UBCMFTQPPOTSPBTUFE QFFMFE BOEDIPQQFE SFECFMMQFQQFST GSPN BKBSJT¹OF

UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE QBSTMFZ 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS UBCMFTQPPOVOTBMUFE CVUUFS PVODFTTPGUXIJUFHPBU DIFFTF DVUJODIVOLT 5PSOVQCBTJMMFBWFT PQUJPOBM N

4 FSWFT

RTT` N[Q PURR`R

39

]N_ZR`N[ ]bSS`

DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

DVQNJML UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS DVUVQ MBSHFFHHT DVQHSBUFE 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP

N

*&

. BLFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

"-8":4 1 016 - " 3 8*5) (6& 4 5 4 these savory puffs are crisp on the outside with a soft, almost hollow interior. Based on gougère, a traditional Burgundian snack, this gluten-free version makes an appetizing accompaniment to a glass of wine, and the puffs are delicious served in lieu of bread with a salad. It’s easiest and quickest to form the puffs with a cone-shaped pastry bag, but you can also use two spoons.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$>Wl[h[WZoWZ[YehWj_d]XW]Äjj[Z m_j^W'À(#_dY^fbW_dj_f$ 9ecX_d[j^[h_Y[Åekh"jWf_eYWijWhY^"WdZiWbj"WdZ i[jWi_Z[$ ?d W ^[Wlo iWkY[fWd" ^[Wj j^[ c_ba WdZ Xkjj[h el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj `kij kdj_b Xe_b_d]$ 7ZZ j^[ Åekh c_njkh[ Wbb Wj edY[" WdZ ij_h l_]ehekibo kdj_b j^[ c_njkh[ Yb[Whi j^[i_Z[ie\j^[fWdWdZ\ehciWXWbb$A[[fij_hh_d]\eh ' c_dkj[" [lWfehWj_d] Wi ckY^ ce_ijkh[ Wi feii_Xb[ m_j^ekjiYehY^_d]j^[fWij[$H[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj$7ZZ j^[[]]ied[WjWj_c["X[Wj_d]^WhZW\j[h[WY^WZZ_j_ed kdj_bj^[c_njkh[_iiceej^W]W_d$8[Wj_dj^[FWhc[iWd$ JhWdi\[h j^[ c_njkh[ je j^[ Z[YehWj_d] XW] WdZ f_f[ ''À*#_dY^cekdZiedj^[XWa_d]i^[[j$FbWY[_dj^[el[d WdZjkhdj^[^[WjZemdje)-+<$8Wa[kdj_bfk\\[ZWdZ

]ebZ[d" WXekj (+ c_dkj[i$ Jkhd e\\ j^[ ^[Wj" WdZ b[Wl[ j^[fk\\i_dj^[el[d\ehWdej^[h+je'&c_dkj[i"m_j^j^[ ZeehfWhj_Wbboef[d$M[Z][m_j^WmeeZ[difeed^WdZb[ _\d[Y[iiWho$I[hl[mWhc$8Wa[Zfk\\icWoX[\hep[d$ 2OEJC=-=OPNU !A?KN=PEJC=C

<_njkh[i _d Wdo fhe\[ii_edWb a_jY^[d \eh \ehc_d] Y^ekn fk\\i"YbW_hi"WdZej^[hicWbbfWijh_[i"fWijhoXW]iYWdX[ \ekdZ_dWdoa_jY^[dmWh[i^ef"Wbed]m_j^c[jWbj_fi$Je ÄbbWfWijhoXW]"_di[hjj^[j_f"j^[dijWdZj^[XW]_dWjWbb `Wh$<ebZXWYaj^[jefb_a[WYk\\"m^_Y^oekkd\ebZm^[d j^[XW]_i^Wb\\kbbieoekYWdjm_ijj^[XW]i^kjm_j^ekj j^[Äbb_d][iYWf_d]\hecj^[mhed][dZ$9^[\iki[j^[ bWh]["l_hjkWbbo_dZ[ijhkYj_Xb[YWdlWia_dZWieffei[Zje j^[icWbb"Z_ifeiWXb[lWh_[jo$9^eei[WYWdlWiXW]"jkhd _j _di_Z[ ekj" WdZ mWi^ kdZ[h mWhc hkdd_d] mWj[h Wi ieedWifeii_Xb[W\j[h\ehc_d]Y^eknZek]^eh_jm_bbX[ j_h[iec[jeYb[Wd$

RTT` N[Q PURR`R

41

\[V\[ T _ bf{_R aN_ a

JODI3JDF'MPVS5BSU 4IFMM QBHFNBEF XJUIPVUTVHBS

IBMG CBLFE UBCMFTQPPOVOTBMUFE CVUUFS POJPOT BCPVU PVODFTFBDI

IBMWFE BOEUIJOMZTMJDFE 1JODIPGOVUNFH QSFGFSBCMZGSFTIMZ HSBUFE 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS MBSHFFHHZPMLT DVQIFBWZDSFBN DVQ PVODFT HSBUFE (SVZoSFDIFFTF PJMDVSFECMBDLPMJWFT QJUUFEBOEIBMWFE N

*(

4 FSWFTUP

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

# " ,*/( 5)*4 4 "703: 5" 3 5 on a preheated baking sheet not only gets the pastry off to a good start, but catches any errant spills. Serve warm as a ﬁrst course. Be patient when cooking the onions: they have to simmer until they practically melt, but the wait is worth it.

M^_b[ j^[ ^Wb\#XWa[Z jWhj i^[bb Yeebi" fh[fWh[ j^[ Äbb_d]$ C[bjj^[Xkjj[h_dW^[WloiWkY[fWdel[hc[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$7ZZj^[ed_edi"Yel[h"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"WdZ Yeea"ij_hh_d]eYYWi_edWbbo"kdj_bfWb[]ebZWdZc[bj_d]bo j[dZ[h"WXekj)+c_dkj[i$I[WiedjejWij[m_j^dkjc[]" iWbj"WdZf[ff[h$

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<"WdZ^[WjWXWa_d]i^[[jWj j^[iWc[j_c[$ M^_iaj^[[]]oebaiWdZYh[Wcje][j^[h"WdZij_h_d j^[ed_edi$Ifh[WZ^Wb\j^[]hWj[ZY^[[i[el[hj^[fWijho i^[bb"ifeedj^[ed_edc_njkh[el[h_j"WdZifh_dab[m_j^ j^[h[cW_d_d]Y^[[i[$7hhWd][j^[eb_l[iWjhWdZeced jef$FbWY[j^[jWhjfWdedj^[^ejXWa_d]i^[[j$8Wa[kdj_b ZWffb[Z]ebZWdZj^[Äbb_d]_i`kiji[j"WXekj)&c_dkj[i$ B[jYeeb\eh'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[kdcebZ_d]WdZib_Y_d]$ 0PKNEJC#ENI DAAOAO

9^[[i[i ikY^ Wi 9^[ZZWh" =hkoh[" WdZ FWhc[iWd m_bb a[[f X[jj[h _\ mhWff[Z _d fWhY^c[dj fWf[h" fkj _d W fbWij_YXW]j^Wj¼ib[\jib_]^jboef[d"WdZh[\h_][hWj[Z$J^_i mWo"j^[o][j_cfehjWdjW_hY_hYkbWj_ed"XkjdejieckY^ j^Wjj^[ogk_YaboZhoekj$M^[dmhWff[Z_dfbWij_YWbed[" Y^[[i[ieedZ[l[beficebZ$7ie\j"\kbboh_f[d[ZY^[[i[" ikY^Wi8h_[eh9Wc[cX[hj"med¼ja[[fdecWjj[hm^Wj oekZeje_j"ieXkoedbom^WjoekYWdki[m_j^_dWZWo ehjme$

RTT` N[Q PURR`R

43

`]V[NPU N[Q gbPPUV[V S _VaaNaN

UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM DVQ¹OFMZDIPQQFE POJPO DVQT PVODFT MPPTF QBDLGSP[FOTQJOBDI MBSHFFHHT DVQTTISFEEFE "TJBHP 1FDPSJOP QSPWPMPOF PS(SVZoSF DIFFTF PSBNJYUVSF DVQHSBUFE 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP DVQUIJOMZTMJDFE [VDDIJOJ 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS DVQDPPLFE TMJDFE DPME QPUBUPFT QFFMFE PS DVQQFDBOT DIPQQFE N

**

4 FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

:0 6 $ " / &/+0: 5)*4 vegetarian frittata hot, warm, or cold for lunch or supper, or as an appetizer with a glass of wine. It’s also perfect for a potluck party: it travels well. You’ll need leftover potatoes to make this dish—boiled or baked work equally well—or you can stir in pecans for a crunchy contrast. Almost any cheese, including Cheddar or crumbled feta, works well.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$=h[Wi[Wd.s'&s(#_dY^ XWa_d]Z_i^m_j^(j[Wifeedie\j^[eb_l[e_b$ >[Wjj^[h[cW_d_d]eb_l[e_b_dWia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc ^[Wj"WdZWZZj^[ed_ed$9eeakdj_bjhWdibkY[dj"ij_hh_d]" WXekj ) c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ if_dWY^ WdZ Yeea" ij_hh_d] e\j[d"kdj_bj^Wm[Z"WXekj+c_dkj[i$I[jWi_Z[$ ?d W bWh][ Xemb" X[Wj j^[ []]i b_]^jbo$ Ij_h _d j^[ i^h[ZZ[ZY^[[i[WdZWbbXkj'jWXb[ifeede\j^[FWhc[iWd$ =[djboij_h_dj^[pkYY^_d_$I[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h h[c[cX[h" j^[ Y^[[i[i YedjW_d iWbj$ Ifeed ^Wb\ j^[ c_njkh[ _dje j^[ XWa_d] Z_i^" WdZ jef m_j^ j^[ fejWje ib_Y[i$ 9el[h m_j^ j^[ h[cW_d_d] if_dWY^ c_njkh[" WdZ iceej^j^[jef$Ifh_dab[m_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeed e\FWhc[iWd$8Wa[kdj_bWZWffb[Z]ebZ[dXhemdedjef" )+ je *& c_dkj[i$ J^[ j[njkh[ m_bb X[ Ähc hWj^[h j^Wd iek\Åb_a[$B[jYeeb\ehWjb[Wij'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[Ykjj_d] WdZi[hl_d]$

`b[ Q _VRQ a\ZNa\ N[Q ]N_ZR`N[ `\bSSYz 4 0 6 ''- c 4 1 3 0 # " # -: & " 3 / &% 5 ) &* 3 reputation for being difﬁcult to make before the days of electric mixers and ovens with thermostats. Actually they are very easy to produce; the only caveat is that diners must wait for the soufﬂé, not the other way round, as it does fall quickly. This version uses rice ﬂour in the basic mixture.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )-+<$ =h[Wi[ W '#gkWhj iek\Å Z_i^ m_j^ ' jWXb[ifeed e\ j^[ Xkjj[h" WdZ Zkij m_j^ ( jWXb[ifeedie\j^[FWhc[iWd$ C[bj j^[ h[cW_d_d] ( jWXb[ifeedi Xkjj[h _d W ^[Wlo iWkY[fWd$Ij_h_dj^[h_Y[ÅekhjecWa[Wiceej^fWij[$ ?cc[Z_Wj[bo WZZ j^[ ^ej c_ba WdZ ij_h l_]ehekibo kdj_b j^[c_njkh[Xe_bi$H[ZkY[j^[^[WjjebemWdZi_cc[h" ij_hh_d] YedijWdjbo" kdj_b iceej^ WdZ j^_Ya" WXekj ) c_dkj[i$H[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj"WdZX[Wj_dj^[=hkoh[ WdZ h[cW_d_d] ( jWXb[ifeedi FWhc[iWd$ 8[Wj _d j^[ []]oebai"ed[WjWj_c[$Ij_h_dj^[Y^eff[Zikd#Zh_[Z jecWje[i$I[WiedjejWij[m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$ 8[Wjj^[[]]m^_j[ikdj_bij_\\XkjdejZho$Ij_hed[bWh][ ifeed\kb_djej^[Y^[[i[c_njkh["jebeei[d_j$Ki_d]W hkXX[hifWjkbW"\ebZ_dj^[h[cW_d_d][]]m^_j[i"ki_d] WYkjj_d]#ZemdWdZiYeef_d]#kfcej_edm^_b[hejWj_d] j^[Xembm_j^oekhej^[h^WdZ$JhWdi\[hjej^[fh[fWh[Z

UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS TPGUFOFE UBCMFTQPPOTHSBUFE 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP UBCMFTQPPOTCSPXO SJDFºPVS DVQXIPMFNJML IFBUFE VOUJMUJOZCVCCMFTGPSN BSPVOEUIFFEHFPGUIF QBO DVQDPBSTFMZHSBUFE (SVZoSF MBSHFFHHT TFQBSBUFE UBCMFTQPPOTESBJOFE BOEDIPQQFETVO ESJFEUPNBUPFTJOPJM 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOEXIJUFQFQQFS N

4 FSWFT

RTT` N[Q PURR`R

45

iek\Å Z_i^$ Ki_d] j^[ ifWjkbW" Ykj W Y_hYkbWh jh[dY^ j^hek]^ j^[ c_njkh[ WXekj ( _dY^[i \hec j^[ i_Z[i e\ j^[Z_i^"m^_Y^^[bfij^[iek\Åjeh_i[[l[dboWdZ\ehc W ¹^Wj$º 8Wa[ kdj_b fk\\[Z WdZ ]ebZ[d Xhemd" WXekj (+ c_dkj[i$I[hl[_cc[Z_Wj[bo$

*,

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

l[][jWXb[i WdZ ]hW_di " -- 7&(& 5" #-& 4 " /% 1 6- 4& 4—from asparagus to zucchini—are gluten-free, but grains are another matter. For the gluten-sensitive, wheat, barley, and rye must be avoided like the Titanic with another chance. Still, other interesting choices vie for the cook’s attention, and the wider the selection of vegetables and whole grains you use, the better for everybody’s general health. Dried beans, lentils, corn, and rice are familiar staples, but quinoa and millet can make fans out of the most suspicious diner when offered as a pilaf or grain salad.

*-

P\_ [ S _VaaR_`

64& '3&4) 03 '30;&/ corn kernels for these crispy, Asian-style fritters, which make a savory appetizer or a light lunch with salad greens. Some brands of tamari sauce are wheat-free, as is Thai ﬁsh sauce, but check the labels to make sure.

8h[Wa j^[ []]i _dje W Xemb" WdZ X[Wj b_]^jbo$ 7ZZ j^[ ]h[[d ed_edi" X[bb f[ff[hi" f[ff[h ÅWa[i" jWcWh_ iWkY[" Äi^iWkY["iWbj"f[ff[h"WdZYehd$Ij_h_dj^[h_Y[Åekh$ >[Wjj^[Yehde_b_dWbWh][dedij_Yaia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc ^[Wjkdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$:hef_d^[Wf[ZjWXb[ifeedie\ j^[ XWjj[h" WdZ \ho kdj_b ]ebZ[d Xhemd ed Xej^ i_Z[i" WXekj)c_dkj[i$FkjedfWf[hjem[bijeZhW_d"WdZa[[f mWhcm^_b[Yeea_d]j^[h[cW_d_d]XWjj[h$Ifh_dab[m_j^ i[iWc[e_bWdZ]Whd_i^m_j^Y_bWdjhe$

MBSHFFHHT HSFFOPOJPOT XIJUF BOEQBMFHSFFOQBSU POMZ UIJOMZTMJDFE UBCMFTQPPOTSPBTUFE QFFMFE BOEDIPQQFE SFECFMMQFQQFST GSPNBKBSJT¹OF

UPUFBTQPPOESJFE SFEQFQQFSºBLFT UBCMFTQPPOXIFBUGSFF UBNBSJTBVDF TVDIBT 0SHBOJD4BO+5BNBSJ UFBTQPPOT5IBJ¹TI TBVDF 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS DVQTDPSOLFSOFMT UIBXFEJGGSP[FO DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS UBCMFTQPPOTDPSOPJM 5PBTUFETFTBNFPJM $JMBOUSPTQSJHT N

.BLFT

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[`

49

gbPPUV[V S _VaaR_`

DVQHSBUFE"TJBHPPS

1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

MBSHFFHH UFBTQPPODIPQQFE GSFTIPSFHBOPPS UIZNF PSUFBTQPPO ESJFE PQUJPOBM UPNFEJVN[VDDIJOJ TMJDFEJODIUIJDL UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS

N

+&

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5)*4 *4 " 5" 4 5 : appetizer or side dish that cooks in 5 minutes. Long, slender purple or lavender Japanese eggplants can be substituted; like zucchini, their skins are so tender that they don’t need peeling. Either one makes ﬁrst-rate ﬁnger food with a glass of wine.

9ecX_d[j^[Y^[[i[WdZh_Y[Åekh$8h[Waj^[[]]_dje Wm_Z["i^WbbemZ_i^WdZX[Wjb_]^jbo$7ZZj^[eh[]Wde"_\ ki_d]$7ZZj^[pkYY^_d_ib_Y[ijej^[X[Wj[d[]]"jkhd_d] jeYeWjm[bb$ >[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W bWh][ dedij_Ya ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj kdj_b _j i^_cc[hi$ C[Wdm^_b[" fbWY[ j^[ pkYY^_d_ib_Y[iedj^[Y^[[i[#Åekhc_njkh["j^[djkhdje YeWjj^[i[YedZi_Z[$
YR[aVY` dVaU PUVPX]RN`

6/- *, & %3*&% #& " /4 - &/ 5 *- 4 don’t need soaking before you cook them. For my money, green lentils have by far the best texture; brown ones can be ﬂoury when cooked, and tiny red lentils turn to mush the moment your back is turned (they’re good in soup, though). As with cooked quinoa, any leftovers can be turned into an excellent grain salad by adding a splash of wine vinegar and more olive oil.

?dWbWh][iWkY[fWd"YecX_d[j^[b[dj_bi"ed_ed"]Whb_Y" fWhib[o"iWbj"WdZ*YkfimWj[h$8h_d]jeWXe_b"h[ZkY[j^[ ^[Wj"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj[dZ[h"WXekj)&c_dkj[i$ :hW_d" h[i[hl_d] j^[ b_gk_Z$ H[jkhd j^[ b[dj_bi je j^[iWkY[fWdm_j^ 'À(Ykfe\j^[Yeea_d]b_gk_Z$7ZZ j^[Y^_Yaf[Wi"eb_l[e_b"Ykc_d"WdZXbWYaf[ff[hjejWij[$ >[Wj][djbo"WdZjWij[\ehi[Wied_d]$I[hl[^ej"Zh_ppb[Z m_j^WZZ_j_edWbeb_l[e_b$

DVQHSFFOMFOUJMT

QJDLFEPWFSBOESJOTFE NFEJVNPOJPO DIPQQFE HBSMJDDMPWF NJODFE DVQDIPQQFEQBSTMFZ UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU DVQDPPLFEPSDBOOFE DIJDLQFBT SJOTFEBOE ESBJOFE DVQFYUSBWJSHJOPMJWF PJM QMVTBEEJUJPOBMGPS ESJ[[MJOH UFBTQPPOHSPVOE DVNJO 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL QFQQFS N

4FSWFT

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[`

51

^bV[\N ]VYNS dVaU _RQ ]R]]R_` DVQTHMVUFOGSFF WFHFUBCMFCSPUIPS DIJDLFOCSPUI DVQZFMMPXRVJOPB SJOTFEBOEESBJOFE UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM DVQDIPQQFEPOJPO DVQEFTUSJOHFEBOE DIPQQFEDFMFSZ HBSMJDDMPWF NJODFE MBSHFSFECFMMQFQQFS CSPJMFEBOEQFFMFE TFFQBHF

DIPQQFE UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE QBSTMFZ 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS N

+(

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

" 4 7&3 4 "5 *- & " 4 8 )* 5 & rice but much higher in nutrients, quinoa cooks in just 15 minutes. It has a mellow ﬂavor and a texture somewhat like caviar: there’s a pleasant little pop to it between your teeth. The seeds grow in a multitude of colors, including white, yellow, pink, red, black, and orange, but the two you’re most likely to ﬁnd in the United States are light yellow and red.

8h_d] j^[ Xhej^ je W Xe_b el[h ^_]^ ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ gk_deW"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"Yel[h"WdZi_cc[hkdj_b j^[]hW_diWh[j[dZ[hWdZj^[b_gk_Z_iWXiehX[Z"WXekj'+ c_dkj[i$J^[]hW_dim_bbjkhdjhWdifWh[dj"WdZj^[m^_j[ ][hch_d]m_bbi^em$ C[Wdm^_b[" ^[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W bWh][ ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj kdj_b _j i^_cc[hi$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_ed WdZ Y[b[ho" WdZ iWkj kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" WXekj + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[]Whb_YWdZX[bbf[ff[h"WdZYeea\eh(c_dkj[iceh[$ Ij_h_dj^[gk_deWWdZfWhib[o"WdZi[WiedjejWij[m_j^ iWbjWdZf[ff[h$

NKEHEJC=J@-AAHEJCAHH-ALLANO

J^[ fWf[ho ia_d ed h[Z WdZ o[bbem X[bb f[ff[hi _i j^[ fWhjj^Wjfhecej[i_dZ_][ij_ed"ie_j^Wije]e$Fh[^[Wj j^[ Xhe_b[h" WdZ b_d[ W i^Wbbem fWd m_j^ Wbkc_dkc \e_b$ Befj^[jefWdZXejjece\\[WY^f[ff[hWdZib_Y[_dje gkWhj[hi" Ykjj_d] j^hek]^ j^[ Å[i^ edbo$ :_iYWhZ j^[ i[[Zo Yeh[" WdZ jh_c e\\ Wdo m^_j[ _dd[h h_Xi$ Oek dem ^Wl[ * ÅWj f_[Y[i f[h f[ff[h$ 8he_b" ia_d i_Z[ kf" kdj_b j^[ ia_d XbWYa[di WdZ Xb_ij[hi" + je - c_dkj[i$ O[bbem f[ff[hi jWa[ b[ii j_c[ j^Wd h[Z ed[i$ 9el[h m_j^ \e_b WdZ b[j ij[Wc \eh '& c_dkj[i$ Fkbb e\\ j^[ fWf[ho ia_d" m^_Y^Yec[ie\\[Wi_bom^[doekZed¼j^Wl[jeYedj[dZ m_j^Ykhl[Z[dZi$

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[`

53

^bV[\N' aUR V[PN `b]R_T_NV[ Ed[ e\ j^[ ^_]^[ij iekhY[i e\ fhej[_d _d j^[ l[][jWXb[ a_d]Zec" gk_deW fhedekdY[Z a[[d#mW^^WiX[[dYkbj_lWj[Z_dj^[7dZ[WdcekdjW_di\ehWjb[Wij\_l[j^ekiWdZo[Whi$ H[l[h[djbo ademd Wi j^[ ¹cej^[h ]hW_dº je j^[ ?dYW" 7pj[Y" WdZ ej^[h fh[#9ebkcX_Wd f[efb[i" \eh m^ec _j ^WZ ]h[Wj h[b_]_eki i_]d_\_YWdY[" _j¼i iW_Z j^Wj j_h[b[ii ?dYW h[bWo hkdd[hi¸m^e a[fj b_d[i e\ Yecckd_YWj_ed ef[d j^hek]^ekj j^[ lWij ?dYW [ cf_h[¸ em[Zj^[_hb[][dZWhoijWc_dWjegk_deW$?ji[[cih[WiedWXb[jeikffei[j^Wjj^_i]hW_d mekbZX[`kijWiki[\kb\ehj^[h[ije\ki"[l[d_\m[Zed¼j^Wl[jehkdkfWdZZemdj^[ idem#YWff[Z7dZ[i$ 7bj^ek]^jh[Wj[ZWiW]hW_d"]bkj[d#\h[[gk_deW_iWYjkWbboj^[\hk_je\W^WhZofbWdjX[bed]_d] je j^[ iWc[ \Wc_bo Wi X[[ji" Y^WhZ" WdZ if_dWY^" m^_Y^ YWd Åekh_i^ Wj ^_]^ Wbj_jkZ[i$ 9^[defeZ_kcgk_deWfheZkY[i^k][gkWdj_j_[ie\j_doXkj^_]^bodkjh_j_ekihekdZi[[Zi_d bWh]["ieh]^kcb_a[Ybkij[hi$M^[dYeea[Z"j^[]hW_diim[bbWdZjkhdjhWdibkY[dj"WdZj^[m^_j[ dkjh_[djh_d]i^emiYb[Whbo$>_]^_dc_d[hWbi"gk_deWikffb_[iWbbj^[[ii[dj_WbWc_deWY_Zi" cWa_d]_jWYecfb[j[fhej[_d$?j^WiWc[bbem"ib_]^jbodkjjoÅWleh"YWdX[ki[Zb_a[m^_j[h_Y[" WdZYeeai_dedbo'+c_dkj[i$ ?dWZZ_j_edjeX[_d]WlW_bWXb[m^eb["eh]Wd_YWbbo]hemd7c[h_YWdgk_deWYWdX[\ekdZ_d ÅWa[i"b_a[hebb[ZeWji1WiÅekh1WdZWifWijW$J^[ÅWa[iWh[ekjijWdZ_d]_dck[ib_fW][ (+WdZcWa[Wd[nY[bb[djX_dZ[h\ehc[WjbeW\ehijk\Äd]i$J^[Åekh_iki[\kb\ehcWa_d] Xh[WZiWdZck\Ädi$7lW_bWXb[_ddWjkhWb\eeZiijeh[i"XocW_behZ[h"WdZ"_dYh[Wi_d]bo"_d ikf[hcWha[ji" j^[h[ _i `kij ed[ YWl[Wj0 m^eb[#]hW_d gk_deW ckij X[ m[bb h_di[Z X[\eh[ Yeea_d]jeh[cel[j^[dWjkhWbboeYYkhh_d]"X_jj[h#jWij_d]iWfed_dij^Wj\ehcedj^[ikh\WY[ jeh[f[b_di[Yji$

+*

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

^bV[\N `NYNQ dVaU PbPbZOR_ a\ZNa\ N[Q ZV[a

#6-(63 8 )& "5 8 )*-& 5 )& traditional grain for tabbouleh, is off-limits to those who can’t eat wheat. Quinoa is the perfect substitute for bulgur. This “tabbouleh” keeps for two or three days refrigerated, and the grains do not harden when chilled. To make a complete summer meal, add cooked shrimp.

8h_d] j^[ Xhej^ je W Xe_b el[h ^_]^ ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ gk_deW"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"Yel[h"WdZi_cc[hkdj_b j^[]hW_diWh[j[dZ[hWdZj^[b_gk_Z_iWXiehX[Z"WXekj'+ c_dkj[i$J^[]hW_dim_bbjkhdjhWdifWh[dj"WdZj^[m^_j[ ][hc h_d] m_bb i^em$ JhWdi\[h je W bWh][ Xemb WdZ b[j Yeeb$ 7ZZj^[YkYkcX[h"jecWje[i"]h[[ded_edi"hWZ_i^[i" c_dj"WdZfWhib[o$M^_iaje][j^[hj^[eb_l[e_bWdZl_d[]Wh" WdZi[WiedjejWij[m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$Fekhel[hj^[ gk_deW WdZ l[][jWXb[i" WdZ c_n ][djbo Xkj j^ehek]^bo$ JWij[\ehi[Wied_d]WdZWZ`kijWid[[Z[Z$I[hl[Wjheec j[cf[hWjkh[$

DVQTHMVUFOGSFF WFHFUBCMFCSPUI DVQSFEPSZFMMPX RVJOPB SJOTFEBOE ESBJOFE DVDVNCFS BCPVU PVODFT

QFFMFE TFFEFE BOEDIPQQFE MBSHF SJQFUPNBUPFT ¹OFMZDIPQQFE QSFGFSBCMZIFJSMPPN HSFFOPOJPOT UIJOMZ TMJDFE SBEJTIFT ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE DVQDIPQQFENJOU DVQDIPQQFEQBSTMFZ DVQFYUSBWJSHJOPMJWF PJM UBCMFTQPPOTXJOF WJOFHBS 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS N

4FSWFTUP

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[`

55

ZVY YRa Zb`U_\\Z N[Q ONP\[ _V`\aa\ UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE DFMFSZSJC EFTUSJOHFE BOE¹OFMZDIPQQFE QPVOEXIJUFPSCSPXO NVTISPPNT TMJDFE DVQNJMMFU DVQTHMVUFOGSFFCFFG CSPUI TUSJQTMFBOCBDPO DPPLFEVOUJMDSJTQBOE DSVNCMFE UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE QBSTMFZ 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS N

4 FSWFTBTBNBJODPVSTF BTBTJEFEJTI

+,

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5)& " /$*&/ 5 30. " /4 $0 0,&% millet long before the arrival of corn or rice. Nutritious, quick-cooking, and gluten-free, it has a nutty, gentle ﬂavor and a texture much like that of rice when cooked. Millet can be found in natural foods stores.

>[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj kdj_b _j i^_cc[hi$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_ed WdZ Y[b[ho" WdZ Yeea kdj_b ie\j[d[Z Xkj dej Xhemd[Z" + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ cki^heeci" WdZ Yeea kdj_b j^[o bei[ j^[_h hWm beea" ( c_dkj[iceh[$Ij_h_dj^[c_bb[j"YeWj_d]j^[]hW_dim[bb$ 7ZZj^[X[[\Xhej^$8h_d]jeWXe_b"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem" Yel[hj^[fWd"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj^[]hW_diWh[j[dZ[hXkj dejcki^o"'+je(&c_dkj[i$ Ij_hj^[XWYedWdZfWhib[o_djej^[c_bb[j"WdZjWij[ \ehi[Wied_d]"WZZ_d] iWbj WdZ f[ff[h Wi d[[Z[Z$

ZVY YRa ]VYNS dVaU Pb__N[a` N[Q UNgRY[ba` 3& 7&3&% " 4 0/& 0' the Five Sacred Grains in ancient China, millet is a mellow-tasting, healthful whole grain that’s almost unknown in the United States except as birdseed. It can be used just like rice as a side dish, and makes an excellent addition to hearty soups.

JeWij j^[ ^Wp[bdkji b_]^jbo _d W Zho ia_bb[j" WdZ i[j Wi_Z[$ >[Wjj^[Xkjj[h_dj^[iWc[ia_bb[j"WZZj^[ed_ed"WdZ Yeeakdj_bjhWdibkY[djWdZijWhj_d]jejkhdYebeh"WXekj- c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[c_bb[j"ij_hh_d]jeYeWjj^[]hW_dim[bb$ I[Wiedm_j^'À(j[WifeediWbjWdZW][d[heki]h_dZ_d]e\ XbWYaf[ff[h$7ZZj^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^" )À*YkfmWj[h"WdZ j^[ YkhhWdji$ 8h_d] je W Xe_b" Yel[h" h[ZkY[ j^[ ^[Wj je bem"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj[dZ[h"'+je(&c_dkj[i$
DVQDIPQQFE

IB[FMOVUT UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE DVQNJMMFU UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL QFQQFS DVQTHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI DVQESJFE;BOUF DVSSBOUT UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE QBSTMFZ

N

4FSWFTUP

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[`

57

_V`\aa\ dVaU `PNY Y\]`

DVQTHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM QPVOECBZTDBMMPQT JGVTJOHMBSHFTFB TDBMMPQT DVUJO RVBSUFST

'JOFTFBTBMU UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS TPGUFOFE POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE HBSMJDDMPWF NJODFE 1JODIPGESJFESFE QFQQFSºBLFT DVQT"SCPSJPSJDF DVQESZXIJUFXJOF DVQQFFMFE TFFEFE BOEDIPQQFESJQF UPNBUP DVQDIPQQFEQBSTMFZ N

+.

4FSWFTUP

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

0/& 0' 5)& (-03*& 4 of northern Italian cuisine, risotto is really best made at home, not in a restaurant. It takes only about 25 minutes to cook, a soothing ritual that involves slowly adding broth to simmering Arborio rice, preferably sipping the same wine—maybe a Pinot Grigio delle Venezie—that goes into the dish. Round-grain Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano rice is a must, as these highly similar varieties absorb broth without losing their shape and turn beautifully creamy. Long-grain white rice, which has a different starch content, would fall apart if cooked this way.

8b[dZj^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^m_j^(YkfimWj[hWdZXh_d]je Wi_cc[h"j^[dh[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjel[hobemie_jZe[id¼j [lWfehWj[$ >[Wjj^[eb_l[e_b_dWbWh]["^[Wlo#Xejjec[ZiWkY[fWd el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ iYWbbefi$ IWkj kdj_b j^[ iYWbbefi X[Yec[ efWgk[" ( c_dkj[i$ Ki_d] W ibejj[Z ifeed"jhWdi\[hj^[cjeWfbWj[WdZi[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^ iWbj"h[c[cX[h_d]j^Wjj^[Xhej^cWoX[iWbj[Z$ 7ZZ*jWXb[ifeedie\j^[Xkjj[hjej^[fWd$M^[d^ej WdZ XkXXb_d]" WZZ j^[ ed_ed WdZ Yeea el[h c[Z_kc# bem ^[Wj kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ ]Whb_Y WdZ h[Zf[ff[hÅWa[i"WdZYeea\eh)&i[YedZi$Ij_h_dj^[

h_Y[ m_j^ W meeZ[d ifeed$ 7ZZ j^[ m_d[" WdZ m^[d _j ^Wi[lWfehWj[Z"ij_h_dj^[jecWjeWdZ'À(Ykfe\j^[^ej Xhej^$7ZZ_d]Xhej^Xoj^[ 'À*Ykf\kbWij^[h_Y[WXiehXi j^[ fh[l_eki XWjY^" Yedj_dk[ Yeea_d] kdj_b j^[ h_Y[ _i Yh[WcoXkjij_bbib_]^jboÄhcjej^[X_j["WXekj(+c_dkj[i$ ?\j^[Xhej^][jiki[ZkfX[\eh[j^[h_Y[_ih[WZo"WZZ ^ej mWj[h$ J^[ h_Y[ i^ekbZ dej X[ Wbbem[Z je X[Yec[ ZhoZkh_d]Yeea_d]"Xkj_ji^ekbZdejX[WmWi^_db_gk_Z" [_j^[h$J^[Äd_i^[ZZ_i^i^ekbZbeeaib_]^jboiekfo$ JWij[#j[ij \h[gk[djbo0 m^[d _j _i h[WZo" W h_Y[ ]hW_d i^ekbZ`kijh[i_ijj^[X_j[WdZdeceh[$@kijX[\eh[_j¼i Zed[" ij_h j^[ iYWbbefi WdZ fWhib[o _dje j^[ h_Y[" WdZ ^[Wj \eh ' c_dkj[$ JWij[ \eh i[Wied_d]" WdZ ij_h _d j^[ h[cW_d_d](jWXb[ifeediXkjj[h$I[hl[_dmWhc[ZfbWj[i" ki_d]m_Z[#h_cc[ZiekffbWj[i"_\WlW_bWXb[$

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[`

59

_V`\aa\ dVaU PUVPXR[ YVcR_` DVQTHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE DVQT"SCPSJPSJDF 'JOFTFBTBMU DVQESZXIJUFXJOF UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM PVODFTQBODFUUB EJDFE QPSUPCFMMP NVTISPPNT BCPVU PVODFTFBDI TUFN BOECSPXOVOEFSTJEF SFNPWFE DVUJO JODIEJDF QPVOEDIJDLFOMJWFST QSFGFSBCMZGSFFSBOHF USJNNFEBOEDVUJO JODIEJDF 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL QFQQFS DVQDIPQQFEQBSTMFZ N

,&

4FSWFTUP

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

*/& 9 1&/4*7& $)*$,&/ -*7&3 4 - &/% richness to this ﬂavorful risotto. To prevent the portobello mushrooms from staining the rice brown, remove the dark brown gills under the caps.

8b[dZj^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^m_j^(YkfimWj[hWdZXh_d]je Wi_cc[h"j^[dh[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjel[hobemie_jZe[id¼j [lWfehWj[$ C[bjj^[Xkjj[h_dWbWh]["^[Wlo#Xejjec[ZiWkY[fWd el[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj$7ZZ^Wb\j^[Y^eff[Zed_ed"WdZ Yeea kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ h_Y[" WdZ ij_h m_j^WmeeZ[difeedkdj_b_jijWhjijejkhdjhWdibkY[dj" (c_dkj[i$I[Wiedm_j^iWbj_\j^[Xhej^_ikdiWbj[Z$7ZZ j^[ m_d[" WdZ b[j _j [lWfehWj[$ Ij_h _d j^[ ^ej Y^_Ya[d Xhej^" 'À*YkfWjWj_c["WdZYedj_dk[Yeea_d]kdj_bj^[ h_Y[_iYh[WcoXkjij_bbib_]^jboÄhcjej^[X_j["WXekj(+ c_dkj[i$ ?\ j^[ Xhej^ ][ji ki[Z kf X[\eh[ j^[ h_Y[ _i h[WZo"WZZ^ejmWj[h$J^[h_Y[i^ekbZdejX[Wbbem[Zje ][j Zho Zkh_d] Yeea_d]" Xkj _j i^ekbZ dej X[ WmWi^ _d b_gk_Z"[_j^[h$ <_\j[[d c_dkj[i X[\eh[ j^[ h_Y[_iZed["^[Wjj^[eb_l[e_b_d WbWh][ia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ h[cW_d_d] Y^eff[Z ed_ed WdZ j^[ fWdY[jjW" WdZ

iWkj kdj_b j^[ ed_ed _i ie\j[d[Z" + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ cki^heeci"WdZiWkjkdj_bj^[cki^heeciWh[Yeea[Z j^hek]^ WdZ beea ]bWiio" WXekj + c_dkj[i$ Fki^ j^[ ed_ed#cki^heecc_njkh[jej^[[Z][ie\j^[fWd"WdZ WZZ j^[ Y^_Ya[d b_l[hi$ IWkj kdj_b `kij Zed[ Xkj ij_bb ib_]^jbof_da_di_Z["'je(c_dkj[i$:edejel[hYeea$ I[Wied m_j^ iWbj WdZ f[ff[h$ C_n m_j^ j^[ ed_edi WdZ cki^heeci" WdZ h[cel[ \hec j^[ ^[Wj$ Ifh_dab[ m_j^ j^[fWhib[o$=[djbo\ebZj^[Y^_Ya[d#b_l[hc_njkh[_djej^[ h_Y[" WdZ i[hl[ ed mWhc[Z fbWj[i" ki_d] m_Z[#h_cc[Z iekffbWj[i"_\WlW_bWXb[$

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[`

61

T_N]R YRNS _\YY` dVaU _VPR Pb__N[a` N[Q ]V[R [ba` HSBQFMFBWFT QSFTFSWFEJOCSJOF UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM NFEJVNPOJPO ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE DVQMPOHHSBJOXIJUF SJDF UFBTQPPOHSPVOE DJOOBNPO 'JOFTFBTBMU UBCMFTQPPODIPQQFE NJOU UBCMFTQPPOTQJOFOVUT UBCMFTQPPOTESJFE ;BOUFDVSSBOUT 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL QFQQFS +VJDFPGMFNPO -FNPOXFEHFT 1MBJOXIPMFNJMLZPHVSU N

. BLFTBCPVU TFSWFTUP

,(

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

" 5&/%&3 '- "703'6- 46313*4& homemade stuffed grape vine leaves are nothing like the stodgy canned variety. A quart jar of grape leaves contains two rolled-up wads of about 40 leaves each; freeze one wad, enclosed in plastic wrap, to use another day.

I[fWhWj[j^[]hWf[b[Wl[i][djbo"h_di[m[bb"WdZXbWdY^ _dXe_b_d]mWj[h\eh)c_dkj[ijeie\j[d$Fbkd][_djeYebZ mWj[h"WdZZhW_dW]W_d$BWo(.je)&f[h\[Yjb[Wl[iedW mehaikh\WY["i^_doi_Z[Zemd"h[i[hl_d]Wdo[njhW#bWh][" [njhW#icWbb"ehjehded[i$D_fe\\j^[ij[ci$ ?d W ^[Wlo '&'À(#_dY^ iWkj fWd m_j^ W b_Z" ^[Wj (jWXb[ifeedie\j^[eb_l[e_bel[hc[Z_kc^[Wjkdj_b_j i^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[ed_ed"WdZiWkjkdj_b]ebZ[d"WXekj -c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[h_Y[WdZY_ddWced"WdZjkhdjeYeWj m[bb$7ZZ'À(j[WifeediWbjWdZ'YkfmWj[h"WdZXh_d]je WXe_b$9el[h"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wj" WdZ i_cc[h \eh + c_dkj[i$ Jkhde\\j^[^[Wj"WdZb[jijWdZ kdj_bj^[h_Y[_ifbkcf[Zkf" WXekj'+c_dkj[i$Ij_h_dj^[ c_dj" f_d[ dkji" YkhhWdji" WdZ W ][d[heki ]h_dZ_d] e\ XbWYa f[ff[h$ JWij[ \eh i[Wied_d]" WdZ WZZ iWbj _\

d[[Z[Z$JhWdi\[hj^[h_Y[jeWXemb"h[cel_d][l[hobWij ]hW_d\hecj^[fWd$9el[hj^[Xejjece\j^[fWdm_j^W bWo[h e\ h[i[hl[Z b[Wl[i" WdZ Zh_ppb[ m_j^ ' jWXb[ifeed eb_l[e_b$ Je cWa[ j^[ hebbi" Y[dj[h W jWXb[ifeed e\ Äbb_d] ed [WY^b[W\"\ebZj^[i_Z[ijemWhZj^[Y[dj[h"WdZhebbkfje cWa[WÄhcXkdZb[$FbWY["i[Wci_Z[Zemd"_dj^[iWkj fWd" Ybei[ je][j^[h" _d W i_d]b[ bWo[h$ :h_ppb[ m_j^ j^[ h[cW_d_d](jWXb[ifeedieb_l[e_bWdZYel[hm_j^WbWo[h e\ b[Wl[i$ 7ZZ j^[ b[ced `k_Y[ WdZ `kij [dek]^ mWj[h jeYel[h$M[_]^Zemdm_j^W^[Wlo"^[Wjfhee\fbWj["WdZ Yel[hj^[fWdj_]^jbo$9eeael[h^_]^^[Wj\eh+c_dkj[i" j^[dh[ZkY[j^[^[WjjebemWdZi_cc[h\eh*+c_dkj[i$ B[j Yeeb _d j^[ Yeea_d] b_gk_Z" ceij e\ m^_Y^ m_bb ^Wl[ [lWfehWj[Z$ H[cel[ j^[ hebbi YWh[\kbbo m_j^ W ibejj[Z ifWjkbW$I[hl[Wjheecj[cf[hWjkh["m_j^b[cedm[Z][i \ehigk[[p_d]edjefWdZoe]khj\ehZ_ff_d]$

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[`

63

_VPR ]VYNS dVaU SR[[RY

UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE GFOOFMCVMCT PVODFT FBDI USJNNFE RVBSUFSFE BOETMJDFE HSFFOGSPOETSFTFSWFE BOEDIPQQFEUPNBLF UBCMFTQPPOT DVQTHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI IFBUFE DVQMPOHHSBJOXIJUF SJDF DVQNJODFEGSFTIEJMM PSUFBTQPPOESJFE EJMM UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS NFMUFEBOE MJHIUMZCSPXOFE 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS -FNPOXFEHFT N

4 FSWFTBTBNBJODPVSTF BTBTJEFEJTI

,*

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5)*4 "11&5*;*/( #65 5&3: $0.#*/" 5*0/ works as a vegetarian main course, an appetizer, or a side dish that’s especially good with lamb.

>[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj _d W ^[Wlo iWkY[fWd$7ZZj^[ed_ed"WdZYeeakdj_bie\j[d[ZWdZ ijWhj_d]jejkhd]ebZ[d"+je,c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[\[dd[b WdZ'À(Ykfe\j^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^WdZYeeakdj_bie\j[d[Z" '&c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[h_Y[WdZZ_bb"ij_hh_d]m[bbjeYeWjj^[ ]hW_di$ 7ZZj^[h[cW_d_d]^ejY^_Ya[dijeYa$9el[h"h[ZkY[ j^[^[Wjjebem"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj^[h_Y[WdZ\[dd[bWh[ j[dZ[h"'.je(&c_dkj[i$
]NRY YN YN ZN[PUN `afYR

5)*4 3&(*0/ " - */- " /% 7" 3*& 5 : of paella makes an intriguing change from the more familiar Barcelona version with chicken and seafood. Be sure to use round-grain Spanish or Italian rice here; long-grain white rice turns to mush. The sliced tomatoes on top give it a ﬁnished look as well as a fresh taste, and the golden fried potatoes, perhaps surprisingly, add great texture and ﬂavor. Old Spanish recipes start with about half a pound of fresh lard; I use olive oil instead. An inexpensive, two-handled, 16-cup aluminum paella pan about 14 inches across adds to the presentation (and makes a useful all-purpose roasting pan), but dividing the ingredients between two large skillets also works.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*(+<$>[Wj(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[ eb_l[e_b_dW'*#_dY^fW[bbWfWdel[hc[Z_kc#^_]^^[Wj kdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[fejWje[i"WdZ\hokdj_b]ebZ[d edXej^i_Z[i"WXekj'&c_dkj[i"WdZi[jWi_Z[$ 7ZZ j^[ ^Wc" ]Whb_Y" iWkiW][i" WdZ Y^eh_pe je j^[ fWd"WdZ\hokdj_bj^[iWkiW][ib_Y[iWh[b_]^jboYebeh[Z" ij_hh_d] YedijWdjbo" + c_dkj[i$ Ij_h _d j^[ h_Y[$ 7ZZ j^[ Y^_Ya[d Xhej^" iW\\hed c_njkh[" jecWje[i" WdZ fejWje ib_Y[i$ I[Wied je jWij[ m_j^ W b_jjb[ iWbj" h[c[cX[h_d] j^Wj j^[ ^Wc WdZ Xhej^ m_bb YedjW_d iWbj$ 9el[h m_j^

DVQFYUSBWJSHJOPMJWF

PJM QPVOETNBMMSVTTFU QPUBUPFT QFFMFEBOE TMJDFEJODIUIJDL BOEQBUUFEESZPO QBQFSUPXFMT QPVOEUIJDLMZTMJDFE IBN EJDFE IFBEPGHBSMJD TFQBSBUFEJOUPDMPWFT QFFMFEBOETMJDFE CFTURVBMJUZ HMVUFOGSFF QPSLTBVTBHFT TMJDFE PVODFTJNQPSUFE 4QBOJTIDIPSJ[P DVSFETBVTBHF

EJDFE DVQT4QBOJTIQBFMMB SJDFPS"SCPSJPSJDF DVQTHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI IFBUFE 1JODIPGTBGGSPOUISFBET TUFFQFEJODVQ CPJMJOHXBUFS DVQQFFMFEBOEEJDFE UPNBUPFT ESBJOFE DBOOFEBSF¹OF

cRTRaNOYR` N[Q T_NV[`

65

'JOFTFBTBMU 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL QFQQFSUPUBTUF MBSHF SJQFUPNBUPFT UIJDLMZTMJDFE QSFGFSBCMZIFJSMPPN $IPQQFEQBSTMFZ N

,,

4FSWFTUP

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

Wbkc_dkc \e_b" WdZ XWa[ \eh (& je (+ c_dkj[i kdj_b j^[ h_Y[ _i j[dZ[h WdZ Wbceij Zho$ C[Wdm^_b[" ^[Wj j^[ h[cW_d_d] ( jWXb[ifeedi eb_l[ e_b _d W bWh][ ia_bb[j$
fWijW *5"-*"/ 1" 4 5" )" 4 #&$0.& " '"703*5& dish all over the world. Fortunately for the gluten-intolerant, quite a few of the classic dried forms, including spaghetti, fettuccine, spirals, shells, elbows, and lasagne, are now made from brown rice ﬂour, corn, or quinoa. They are all mellow in ﬂavor and cook in about the same length of time as wheat pasta. Different brands have slightly different textures, so keep trying until you ﬁnd a favorite; I like both De Boles and Mrs. Leeper’s pasta. You can also make your own fresh egg pasta from rice ﬂour, which cooks in just 2 or 3 minutes. Traditional Asian rice noodles and mung bean noodles, which are marvelous for absorbing ﬂavorful sauces, are gluten-free, cook in a ﬂash, and can be found in many large supermarkets.

,-

_VPR `]NTURaaV NYYN PN_O\[N_N 1" 4 5" $ "3#0/"3 " *4 53 "%*5*0/"--: served with a sauce of pancetta and raw eggs, which are cooked, more or less, by the heat of the pasta. I don’t fancy the idea of salmonella poisoning, so I use Eggbeaters instead. Made from 99 percent egg whites, this product is sterilized and perfectly safe. Again, it’s not traditional, but the food police won’t take you away if you add a handful of frozen peas to the boiling pasta water. Their sweetness makes the perfect foil for the pancetta and Parmesan.

8h_d] W fej e\ mWj[h je W Xe_b" WdZ WZZ j^[ iWbj WdZ fWijW$9eeakdj_bWbZ[dj["WXekj'&c_dkj[i"WdZZhW_d$ :_\\[h[djcWdk\WYjkh[hi¼fheZkYjiWdZ_dijhkYj_edilWho" ieY^[Ya\h[gk[djboXoX_j_d]_djeWijhWdZ$?\WZZ_d]f[Wi" ZeieWYekfb[e\c_dkj[iX[\eh[j^[fWijW_ih[WZo$ C[Wdm^_b[" ^[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W icWbb ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ fWdY[jjW" WdZ iWkj kdj_b b_]^jbo Xhemd[Z Xkj dej Yh_if" WXekj ) c_dkj[i$ I[j Wi_Z["ij_bb_dj^[ia_bb[j$I[Wiedj^[;]]X[Wj[him_j^XbWYa f[ff[h"WdZij_h_dj^[FWhc[iWd$ :hW_d j^[ fWijW" WdZ WZZ je j^[ ia_bb[j m_j^ j^[ fWdY[jjW$Fekhj^[;]]X[Wj[h#FWhc[iWdc_njkh[edjef" WdZ jeii je Xb[dZ$ J^[ YecX_d[Z ^[Wj \hec j^[ ij_bb# mWhcia_bb[jWdZj^[^ejfWijWm_bbYeea_jb_]^jbo$:_l_Z[ X[jm[[dmWhc[ZfbWj[i$

UPPVODFTCSPXOSJDF ºPVSTQBHIFUUJ UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU DVQGSP[FOQFBT PQUJPOBM UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM PVODFTQBODFUUB EJDFE DVQ&HHCFBUFSTPS TJNJMBSMJRVJEFHH TVCTUJUVUF BUSPPN UFNQFSBUVSF 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL QFQQFS DVQHSBUFE 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP

N

4FSWFT

]N`aN

69

_VPR SRaabPPV[R dVaU N_ bTbYN N[Q T\Na PURR`R UPPVODFTCSPXOSJDF ºPVSGFUUVDDJOF 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM UBCMFTQPPOVOTBMUFE CVUUFS NFEJVNPOJPOT RVBSUFSFEBOEUIJOMZ TMJDFE DVQT PVODFT BSVHVMB UPPVODFTTPGUXIJUF HPBUDIFFTF BUSPPN UFNQFSBUVSF N

-&

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5 )*4 3&$*1& *4 '" 4 5 savory, simple, and is easy to double. You can substitute coarsely chopped spinach for the arugula if you like.

8h_d] W fej e\ mWj[h je W Xe_b WdZ WZZ W j[Wifeed e\ iWbj WdZ j^[ fWijW$ 9eea kdj_b Wb Z[dj[" WXekj '& c_dkj[i"WdZZhW_d$:_\\[h[djcWdk\WYjkh[hi¼fheZkYji WdZ_dijhkYj_edilWho"ieY^[Ya\h[gk[djboXoX_j_d]_dje WijhWdZ$ C[Wdm^_b[" ^[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b WdZ Xkjj[h _d W ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ J^[ e_b a[[fi j^[ Xkjj[h \hec iYehY^_d]$7ZZj^[ed_ediWdZYeea"ij_hh_d]e\j[d"kdj_b ie\j WdZ ]ebZ[d Xkj dej Xhemd" . je '& c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[Whk]kbW"WdZij_hkdj_bm_bj[Z"'je(c_dkj[i$I[Wied b_]^jbom_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$ 7ZZj^[fWijWjej^[ed_edc_njkh["WdZjeii$:_l_Z[ X[jm[[d ( mWhc[Z fbWj[i WdZ YhkcXb[ ^Wb\ j^[ ]eWj Y^[[i[ el[h [WY^ fehj_ed$ 7ZZ W ][d[heki]h_dZ_d] e\f[ff[h$

_VPR `]V_NY` dVaU N`]N_NTb`

5)*4 *4 " 1&3'&$ 5 dish for spring, when local asparagus starts appearing in the markets or your garden, should you be so lucky. Cook the asparagus until tender; it should be about the same consistency as the cooked pasta.

8h_d]WbWh][feje\mWj[hjeWhWf_ZXe_b"WdZWZZj^[ WifWhW]ki WdZ W j[Wifeed e\ iWbj$ H[ZkY[ j^[ ^[Wj je c[Z_kc"WdZi_cc[hj^[WifWhW]kikdj_bj[dZ[h"WXekj+ c_dkj[i$H[cel[m_j^jed]ijeWYkjj_d]XeWhZ$?dYh[Wi[ j^[^[Wjje^_]^"WZZj^[b[cedp[ijWdZfWijWif_hWbi" WdZ Xe_b kdj_b j^[ fWijW _i Wb Z[dj[" WXekj '& c_dkj[i$ J[ij e\j[d je Y^[Ya \eh Zed[d[ii$ 9kj j^[ WifWhW]ki Z_W]edWbbo_dje(#_dY^b[d]j^i$ C[Wdm^_b["^[Wj(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[eb_l[e_b_dWia_bb[j el[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wjkdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[ed_ed WdZh[Zf[ff[hÅWa[i"WdZiWkjkdj_bj^[ed_ed_ij[dZ[h XkjdejYebeh[Z"WXekj+c_dkj[i$Ij_h_dj^[YkjWifWhW]ki" ^[Wj][djbo"WdZi[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^iWbj$H[cel[\hecj^[ ^[Wj$ :hW_dj^[fWijWWdZb[cedp[ij"WdZWZZjej^[ia_bb[j$ 7ZZj^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeedeb_l[e_b"WdZjeii][djbo je Xb[dZ$ :_l_Z[ X[jm[[d mWhc[Z fbWj[i" WdZ jef m_j^ j^[FWhc[iWd$

QPVOETMFOEFS

BTQBSBHVT XPPEZQBSU PGUIFTUBMLTTOBQQFE PGG 'JOFTFBTBMU TUSJQTMFNPO[FTU sJODI TMJWFSFE UPPVODFTCSPXOSJDF TQJSBMT UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM TNBMMPOJPO DIPQQFE 1JODIPGESJFESFE QFQQFSºBLFT DVQHSBUFE 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP N

4FSWFT

]N`aN

71

P\_ [ ZNPN_\[V N[Q PURR`R

UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS UBCMFTQPPOTCSPXO SJDFºPVS DVQTNJML IFBUFE 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOEXIJUFQFQQFS -BSHFQJODIPGOVUNFH QSFGFSBCMZGSFTIMZ HSBUFE DVQHSBUFETIBSQ $IFEEBSDIFFTF DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF 'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT QBHF

PVODFTDPSOQBTUB FMCPXT UBCMFTQPPOTHSBUFE 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP N

-(

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

. "$ " /% $ )&& 4& *4 " %*4) that needs to be homemade before it can become the stuff of which fond memories are made. Rice or quinoa pasta elbows work equally well.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)-+<$8h_d]WbWh][feje\mWj[hje Whebb_d]Xe_b$=h[Wi[W,#Ykfi^WbbemXWa_d]Z_i^$ C[bj)jWXb[ifeedie\j^[Xkjj[h_dW^[WloiWkY[fWd el[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj$7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh"WdZij_hkdj_b iceej^"(&i[YedZi$7ZZj^[^ejc_ba"WdZm^_iakdj_b j^[c_njkh[Xe_biWdZj^_Ya[di"WXekj(c_dkj[i$I[Wied jejWij[m_j^iWbj"f[ff[h"WdZj^[dkjc[]$Ij_h_d)À*Ykf e\j^[]hWj[Z9^[ZZWhWdZi[jWi_Z[$ C[bjj^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeedXkjj[h_dWicWbbia_bb[j el[hbem^[Wj"ij_h_dj^[Xh[WZYhkcXi"WdZh[cel[\hec j^[^[Wj$ C[Wdm^_b["WZZ'j[WifeediWbjWdZj^[Yehd[bXemi jej^[Xe_b_d]mWj[h$Ij_hjefh[l[djYbkcf_d]WdZYeea kdj_bWbZ[dj[",je'&c_dkj[iZ[f[dZ_d]edj^[XhWdZ j[ije\j[d"WdZZhW_d$7ZZjej^[Y^[[i[iWkY["WdZfekh _djej^[XWa_d]Z_i^$Ifh_dab[m_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]]hWj[Z 9^[ZZWh WdZ j^[ FWhc[iWd" WdZ iYWjj[h j^[ Xkjj[h[Z Xh[WZ YhkcXi ed jef$ 8Wa[ kdYel[h[Z kdj_b j^[ iWkY[ XkXXb[i WdZ j^[ jef _i j_d][Z ]ebZ[d Xhemd" WXekj (& c_dkj[i$ ?\ _j¼i dej Xhemd [dek]^ Xo j^[d" Xhe_b \eh ( c_dkj[i$B[jYeeb\eh'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[i[hl_d]$

T_NaV[zRQ _VPR SY\b_ PN[[RYY\[V

)&3& 5 &/%&3 3*$& $3Á1& 4 are ﬁlled with a savory meat mixture but not blanketed with the usual ﬂour-based béchamel or tomato sauce. The ragù recipe makes about 6 cups; freeze the remainder for serving with gluten-free pasta, mixed with ricotta, cooked spinach, or lightly cooked tomato to loosen it a bit. Time permitting, make the ragù a day ahead so that the ﬂavors can develop.

JecWa[j^[hW]0>[Wjj^[eb_l[e_b_dWbWh]["^[Wlo# Xejjec[Z iWkY[fWd el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_ed" WdZ iWkj kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" WXekj + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[X[[\"Xh[Wa_d]_jkfm[bb"WdZYeeakdj_b_jbei[i_ji f_daYebeh"WXekj'&c_dkj[i$Ij_h_dj^[m_d["WdZYeea \eh ( c_dkj[i ceh[$ 7ZZ j^[ fheiY_kjje" \[dd[b i[[Zi" jecWje[i"WdZjecWjefWij[$8h_d]jeWXe_b"cWi^_d]j^[ jecWje[im_j^WmeeZ[difeed$H[ZkY[j^[^[Wj"fWhj_Wbbo Yel[hj^[fWd"WdZi_cc[h][djbo"ij_hh_d]eYYWi_edWbbo" kdj_b j^[ c_njkh[ _i h[ZkY[Z je Wffhen_cWj[bo , Ykfi" WXekj)^ekhi$JWij["WdZi[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$ JhWdi\[hjeWXemb"b[jYeeb"Yel[h"WdZh[\h_][hWj[$ Je Wii[cXb[0 Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *(+<$ =h[Wi[ W Y[hWc_YXWa_d]Z_i^bWh][[dek]^je^ebZj^[YWdd[bbed_ _ded[bWo[hehki[jmeicWbb[hed[im_j^(jWXb[ifeedi e\ j^[ Xkjj[h$ 8b[dZ j^[ hW] m_j^ j^[ h_YejjW" ^Wb\ j^[

ragù UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE QPVOETHSPVOECFFG DVQESZXIJUFXJOF QPVOEQSPTDJVUUP XJUIGBU DIPQQFEBOE QSPDFTTFEUPBQBTUF UFBTQPPOGFOOFMTFFET MBSHFDBO PVODFT *UBMJBOUPNBUPFT XJUI UIFJSKVJDF UBCMFTQPPOTUPNBUP QBTUF 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS

N

4FSWFTUP

]N`aN

73

to a s s e m b le UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS 3JDF'MPVS$SpQFT QBHF

DVQT3BH} DVQSJDPUUB DVQGSFTIMZHSBUFE 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE QBSTMFZ

-*

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

FWhc[iWd" WdZ j^[ fWhib[o$ BWo j^[ Yhf[i ed W meha ikh\WY[" Xhemd[Z i_Z[ Zemd$ FbWY[ 'À) Ykf Äbb_d] Zemd j^[ Y[dj[h e\ [WY^ ed[ WdZ hebb kf" m_j^ekj jkYa_d] _d j^[[dZi$FbWY[j^[Äbb[ZYhf[i"i[Wci_Z[Zemd"_dj^[ XWa_d]Z_i^"jekY^_d][WY^ej^[h$:ejm_j^j^[h[cW_d_d] ( jWXb[ifeedi Xkjj[h" WdZ ifh_dab[ m_j^ j^[ h[cW_d_d] FWhc[iWd$8Wa[kdj_bb_]^j]ebZ[dXhemdWdZj^[[dZie\ j^[hebb[ZYhf[iWh[Yh_ifo"WXekj'+c_dkj[i$B[jh[ij\eh '&c_dkj[iX[\eh[i[hl_d]$

S _R`U _VPR SY\b_ RTT ]N`aN

. " , */( :0 63 08 / 1" 4 5" will elicit awe and admiration (unless, of course, you have an Italian grandmother), but it’s really easy using rice ﬂour, as the pasta dough doesn’t resist being rolled out. It can be cut into any width you like: 1 ⁄4 inch wide for fettuccine, 1 ⁄ 2 inch wide for pappardelle, or 2 inches wide for lasagne. The recipe makes two 12 s 10-inch sheets of silky pasta, weighing about 4 ounces each, and can be doubled. As with all fresh pasta, it cooks in just 2 or 3 minutes.

9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh" jWf_eYW Åekh" nWdj^Wd ]kc" WdZiWbj_dW\eeZfheY[iieh"WdZfheY[iijec_n$9ecX_d[ j^[[]]"[]]oeba"eb_l[e_b"WdZ'jWXb[ifeedmWj[h_dW ]bWii c[Wikh_d] Ykf" WdZ m^_ia je YecX_d[$ M_j^ j^[ cejehhkdd_d]"fekhj^[[]]c_njkh[el[hj^[Åekh"WdZ fkbi[kdj_bj^[Zek]^\ehci_djeWhek]^XWbb$?\jeeZho" WZZ W \[m Zhefi e\ mWj[h1 _\ jee m[j" WZZ W b_jjb[ ceh[ h_Y[Åekh$H[cel["WdZfWjje][j^[h_djeWZ_ia$9kjj^[ Zek]^_d^Wb\"WdZmeham_j^ed[^Wb\WjWj_c[$ FbWY[WXWbbe\Zek]^X[jm[[d(i^[[jie\fbWij_YmhWf WdZhebb_djeWl[hoj^_d"[l[dh[YjWd]b[Wffhen_cWj[bo'& s'(_dY^[i"jkhd_d]_ji[l[hWbj_c[i$?jWb_WdYeeaiiWo oeki^ekbZX[WXb[jeh[WZd[mifWf[h^[WZb_d[ij^hek]^ hebb[ZfWijWZek]^$$H[f[Wjm_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]Zek]^$

DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQUBQJPDBºPVS UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO

HVN UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

MBSHFFHH MBSHFFHHZPML UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM

N

.BLFT QPVOETFSWFT

]N`aN

75

?\ ki_d] _cc[Z_Wj[bo" f[[b e\\ j^[ jef bWo[h e\ fbWij_Y mhWf WdZ Ykj j^[ Zek]^ _dje ijh_fi e\ Z[i_h[Z m_Zj^$ ?\ h[\h_][hWj_d] eh \h[[p_d]" b[Wl[ j^[ i^[[ji _di_Z[ j^[ fbWij_YmhWfWdZYkjbWj[h$F[[bj^[ijh_fiWmWo\hecj^[ Xejjeci^[[je\fbWij_YmhWfWdZbWoedWmeeZ[dXeWhZ" ieoekYWdWZZj^[cjej^[Xe_b_d]mWj[hWbbWjedY[$ 8h_d](gkWhjimWj[hjeWhebb_d]Xe_b$7ZZ'j[Wifeed iWbjWdZj^[fWijW$9eea"ij_hh_d]eYYWi_edWbbo"kdj_bj^[ fWijW _i Wb Z[dj[" ( je ) c_dkj[i$ :hW_d WdZ jeii m_j^ Xkjj[h WdZ FWhc_]_Wde#H[]]_Wde" eh oekh Y^e_Y[ e\ iWkY[$

-,

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

_VPR ]N]]N_QRY YR dVaU Zb`U_\\Z `NbPR '3& 4)-: . " %& 8 *%& /0 0%-& 4 are uniquely satisfying to eat. Maybe it’s their slurpiness. Pappardelle are usually served con lepre—with hare sauce—but you can serve this pasta with a rich and chunky mushroom sauce instead. Grated Parmesan would be superﬂuous here.

9kjj^[fWijW_dje'À(#_dY^m_Z[ijh_fiWdZi[jWi_Z[$ B_\jj^[fehY_d_cki^heecf_[Y[i\hecj^[ieWa_d] b_gk_Z" fWj Zho" WdZ Y^ef YeWhi[bo$ IjhW_d j^[ b_gk_Z j^hek]^ W fWf[h Ye\\[[ Äbj[h _dje W icWbb Xemb" WdZ h[i[hl[$ >[Wjj^[Xkjj[hWdZeb_l[e_b_dWia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc# bem^[Wj$J^[e_bm_bbfh[l[djj^[Xkjj[h\heciYehY^_d]$ 7ZZj^[ed_edWdZ]Whb_Y"WdZYeeakdj_bie\j[d[ZXkjdej Xhemd[Z"+c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[ib_Y[Zcki^heeci$Ifh_dab[ m_j^j^[j^oc["WdZWZZiWbjWdZf[ff[hjejWij[$9eea" ij_hh_d]e\j[d"kdj_bj^[cki^heecijkhd]bWiio#beea_d]" WXekj+c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[h[i[hl[ZfehY_d_ieWa_d]b_gk_Z" )À* Ykf e\ j^[ X[[\ Xhej^" WdZ j^[ CWhiWbW$ H[ZkY[ j^[ ^[Wj je bem" WdZ i_cc[h kdj_b j^[ cki^heeci WdZ ed_ed Wh[ j[dZ[h"'&je'+c_dkj[i"WZZ_d] j^[ h[cW_d_d] X[[\ Xhej^ _\ d[[Z[Z je cWa[ W \W_hbo b_gk_Z iWkY[$JWij[\ehi[Wied_d]$

PVODFT'SFTI3JDF 'MPVS&HH1BTUB QBHF

PVODFESJFEQPSDJOJ NVTISPPNT TPBLFE JODVQXBSNXBUFS GPSNJOVUFT UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE HBSMJDDMPWFT NJODFE PVODFTQBODFUUBPS MFBOCBDPO ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE QPVOEBTTPSUFE NVTISPPNT XIJUF DSFNJOJ IFOPGUIF XPPET NPSFMT FUD

TMJDFE UFBTQPPOESJFEUIZNF 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS DVQHMVUFOGSFFCFFG CSPUI UBCMFTQPPOT.BSTBMB

]N`aN

77

UFBTQPPOTDPSOTUBSDI EJTTPMWFEJO UBCMFTQPPOTXBUFS N

-.

4FSWFTBTBGJSTUDPVSTF

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

C[Wdm^_b[" Xh_d] W bWh][ fej e\ mWj[h je W hebb_d] Xe_b1WZZ'j[WifeediWbjWdZj^[fWijWijh_fi$8e_bkdj_b WbZ[dj["(je)c_dkj[i"ZhW_d"WdZfekh_djeW^[Wj[Z i[hl_d]Xemb$ Ij_hj^[YehdijWhY^c_njkh["WdZWZZjej^[cki^heec c_njkh[$B[ji_cc[hkdj_b_jj^_Ya[diib_]^jboWdZYb[Whi" )&i[YedZiehb[ii$Fekhel[hj^[fWijW"WdZjeii][djbo jec_n$

N`VN[ `aVPX [\\QYR` dVaU ]\_X N[Q N`]N_NTb` /& 4 5 4 0 ' # 6/% - &% " /% dried Asian rice stick noodles can be found in many large supermarkets, along with condiments like bean sauce and oyster sauce, which are off-limits as they contain wheat. Here I’ve teamed stick noodles with pork with asparagus, but shrimp and snow peas or chicken breast with broccoli work well with the same seasoning sauce. As a wok doesn’t get hot enough on a regular stovetop, I use a large sauté pan for better heat contact. Stir the sauce ingredients together ﬁrst.

s eas oning sauce UBCMFTQPPOTXIFBU GSFFUBNBSJTBVDF TVDIBT4BO+0SHBOJD 5BNBSJ UBCMFTQPPOTESZTIFSSZ DVQHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI UFBTQPPOUPBTUFE TFTBNFPJM UFBTQPPOTVHBS UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

<ehj^[i[Wied_d]iWkY[09ecX_d[j^[jWcWh_iWkY[" i^[hho"Y^_Ya[dXhej^"i[iWc[e_b"ik]Wh"WdZiWbj"WdZi[j Wi_Z[$ 8h_d]WbWh][feje\mWj[hjeWXe_b"WZZj^[deeZb[i Ze dej ieWa Ähij" WdZ Yeea \eh ) c_dkj[i" ij_hh_d] eYYWi_edWbbojei[fWhWj[j^[ijhWdZi$Fekh_djeWYebWdZ[h" hkdYebZmWj[hel[hj^[deeZb[i"WdZh[i[hl[$

PVODFT"TJBOSJDFTUJDL OPPEMFT UBCMFTQPPOTQFBOVUPS DPSOPJM QPVOEMFBOQPSL CPOFMFTTDIPQTBSF ¹OF

UIJOMZTMJDFE UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU HBSMJDDMPWF NJODFE 1JODIPGESJFESFE QFQQFSºBLFT

]N`aN

79

HSFFOPOJPOT NPTUPG UIFUPQTJODMVEFE DVU JOJODIQJFDFTBOE TMJWFSFEMFOHUIXBZT QPVOEQFODJMUIJO BTQBSBHVT XPPEZ FOETEJTDBSEFE DVUJO JODIMFOHUIT N

.&

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

>[WjWbWh][iWkjfWdel[hc[Z_kc#^_]^^[Wj$7ZZ ' jWXb[ifeed e\ j^[ e_b WdZ j_f j^[ fWd je ifh[WZ _j WhekdZ$7ZZj^[feha"WdZij_h#\hokdj_b_jjkhdiX[_][WdZ _iXWh[boYeea[Zj^hek]^"(c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjeWfbWj[ WdZifh_dab[m_j^j^[iWbj$ 7ZZ j^[ h[cW_d_d] jWXb[ifeed e_b je j^[ fWd" im_hb _j WhekdZ" WdZ WZZ j^[ ]Whb_Y" h[Z f[ff[h ÅWa[i" WdZ ]h[[d ed_edi$ B[j Yeea \eh (& i[YedZi" j^[d WZZ j^[ WifWhW]ki$Ij_h#\ho\eh'c_dkj["WZZ(eh)jWXb[ifeedi mWj[h je Yh[Wj[ ij[Wc" WdZ Yedj_dk[ ij_h#\ho_d] kdj_b j[dZ[h#Yh_if"WXekj)c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[deeZb[i"WdZ jeii m[bb$ 7ZZ j^[ i[Wied_d] iWkY[" WdZ Wbbem _j je [lWfehWj[" jeii_d] j^[ c_njkh[ YedijWdjbo" WXekj ( c_dkj[i ceh[$ H[jkhd j^[ feha WdZ Wdo `k_Y[i je j^[ fWd"WdZ^[Wjj^hek]^"ij_hh_d]WdZjeii_d]"\eh'c_dkj[$ I[hl[_cc[Z_Wj[bo$

ObPXdURNa `]NRagYR

'6/ 50 .",& 5)& 4& tiny dumplings can be served as a side dish with braised meat or chicken, or eaten like pasta with the addition of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. If you don’t have a spaetzle press, which looks a bit like a ﬂat grater with a movable carriage that slides back and forth, use a colander with 1 ⁄4-inch wide holes and a rubber spatula instead. For a different ﬂavor, replace the buckwheat ﬂour with chestnut or teff ﬂour.

I_\j j^[ XkYam^[Wj Åekh" h_Y[ Åekh" YehdijWhY^" 'À*j[WifeediWbj"WdZj^[dkjc[]_djeWXemb$Ki_d]W \eha" ij_h _d j^[ []]i WdZ ) jWXb[ifeedi e\ j^[ c_ba je cWa[Wbkcfo#beea_d]XWjj[h$A[[fij_hh_d]"WdZWZZj^[ h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeedc_ba_\d[[Z[Z$J^[Zek]^i^ekbZ dej X[ hkddo0 _\ oek b_\j j^[ \eha" _j i^ekbZ ^Wd] \eh W cec[djX[\eh[Zheff_d]$ 8h_d]WbWh][feje\mWj[hjeWXe_bel[hc[Z_kc#^_]^ ^[Wj$ 7ZZ ' jWXb[ifeed iWbj WdZ j^[ YWdebW e_b" m^_Y^ ^[bfi je fh[l[dj Ybkcf_d]$ =h[Wi[ W i[hl_d] Z_i^ m_j^ 'jWXb[ifeede\j^[Xkjj[h"WdZa[[fmWhc$ H[ijWifW[jpb[fh[iiel[hj^[fej"WdZifeed'À(Ykfe\ j^[XWjj[h_djej^[celWXb[YWhh_W][$Ib_Z[j^_iXWYaWdZ \ehj^"m^_Y^m_bbfki^b_jjb[Ykhbie\Zek]^_djej^[mWj[h$ J^[ ifW[jpb[ m_bb im[bb WdZ h_i[ je j^[ ikh\WY[ Wbceij _cc[Z_Wj[bo$ B[j Yeea \eh ' c_dkj[" WdZ h[cel[ m_j^

DVQCVDLXIFBUºPVS DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI

'JOFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOOVUNFH QSFGFSBCMZGSFTIMZ HSBUFE MBSHFFHHT MJHIUMZ CFBUFO UPUBCMFTQPPOTNJML UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS TPGUFOFE 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL QFQQFS

N

4FSWFT

]N`aN

81

W ibejj[Z ifeed je W ^[Wj[Z i[hl_d] Z_i^$ H[f[Wj m_j^ j^[h[cW_d_d]XWjj[h$7ZZj^[h[cW_d_d](jWXb[ifeedi Xkjj[hjej^[Z_i^"i[WiedjejWij[m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h" WdZjeiim[bb$7bj[hdWj_l[bo"jeiij^[ifW[jpb[m_j^Wb_jjb[ l[][jWXb[e_b"iej^[oZed¼jij_Yaje][j^[h"WdZb[jYeeb$ >[Wj_dXkjj[h`kijX[\eh[i[hl_d]$

.(

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

X_hZi " / :0/& 8 )0 *4 ( -6 5&/ 4 &/4*5*7& 8 *-- #& delighted to discover that chicken does not have to be limited to the plain roasted kind. A delicious breading mixture made from ground nuts and Parmesan adds new savor to sautéed breast meat, and whole birds can be ﬂattened and then plumped under the skin with a tasty mushroom stufﬁng. The holiday bird beneﬁts from a new, meatier, gluten-free dressing, and the accompanying gravy is just as good when thickened with rice ﬂour or cornstarch and livened up with Spanish sherry.

.)

UNgRY[ba N[Q ]N_ZR`N[ PUVPXR[ PbaYRa` 803-%4 "8": '30. %&&1 ' 3*&% fast food, slices of tender chicken breast have a light, crispy coating that’s full of ﬂavor. The recipe can, of course, be doubled; but use two pans or the cutlets will steam instead of brown. They should not touch each other as they cook. If you can’t ﬁnd hazelnut meal, make it yourself by grinding hazelnuts in an electric coffee mill reserved for grinding spices and other items; a food processor tends to make nut paste rather than ﬂour.

H[cel[ j^[ bed] Äbb[j WdZ ib_Y[ j^[ Y^_Ya[d c[Wj ^eh_pedjWbboi[[X[bem"cWa_d]*ib_Y[i$9ecX_d[j^[ ^Wp[bdkjc[WbWdZFWhc[iWdedWfbWj[$8[Wjj^[[]]_d Wi^WbbemXemb"WdZi[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h" >[Wjj^[eb_l[e_b_dWia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc^[Wjkdj_b_j i^_cc[hi$:_fj^[Y^_Ya[df_[Y[i_dj^[h_Y[Åekh"i^Wa_d] e\\ Wdo [nY[ii" j^[d _d j^[ i[Wied[Z []]" WdZ ÄdWbbo _d j^[Y^[[i[#^Wp[bdkjXb[dZ$IWkjkdj_b]ebZ[dXhemded Xej^i_Z[iWdZYeea[Zj^hek]^")c_dkj[iehb[ii$FbWY[ ed^[Wj[ZZ_dd[hfbWj[i"Zh_ppb[m_j^^Wp[bdkje_b"_\ki_d]" WdZ]Whd_i^m_j^b[cedm[Z][i$

DIJDLFOCSFBTUIBMWFT PVODFTFBDI TLJOMFTTBOECPOFMFTT DVQIB[FMOVUNFBM DVQHSBUFE 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP MBSHFFHH 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOEXIJUFQFQQFS UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM 8IJUFSJDFºPVS GPS ESFEHJOH )B[FMOVUPJM PQUJPOBM -FNPOXFEHFT

N

4FSWFT

0HE?EJC DE?GAJNA=OPO%KNEVKJP=HHU

7Y^_Ya[dXh[Wij_iWdWmamWhZi^Wf[\eh[l[dYeea_d]" iecWdoh[Y_f[ih[Yecc[dZX[Wj_d]_jÅWj$Ib_Y_d]j^[

OV_Q`

85

c[Wj^eh_pedjWbbo_igk_Ya[h"]_l[iWX[jj[hj[njkh["WdZ _cfh[ii[i edbeea[hi de [dZ$ M_[bZ_d] W i^Whf fWh_d] ad_\["beYWj[WdZh[cel[j^[fWhj_WbboZ[jWY^[Zbed]Äbb[j \hec W ia_dd[Z WdZ Xed[Z Y^_Ya[d Xh[Wij ^Wb\ WdZ i[j Wi_Z[$;_j^[hYeeaj^[Äbb[jWbed]i_Z[j^[Xh[Wijc[Wj" eh \h[[p[ \eh W ij_h#\ho Wdej^[h ZWo$ FbWY[ j^[ Xh[Wij c[WjedW meeZ[d Y^eff_d] XeWhZ" m_j^ j^[ hekdZ[Z" ia_di_Z[kff[hceij$BWoed[^WdZÅWjedjef"Äd][hi ekjijh[jY^[Z$Ib_Y[j^[Xh[Wij_dje[gkWb^Wbl[iehj^_hZi Z[f[dZ_d]edi_p[WdZj^_Yad[iim_j^WiWm_d]cej_ed" fWhWbb[bjej^[XeWhZWdZiW\[bokdZ[hd[Wj^oekhfWbc$

.,

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

PUVPXR[ V[ PUN_Q\[[Nf

*/41*3&% #: " 5)3*' 5 : French country recipe for turning a tough old cockerel into something worthwhile, this lighter version of coq au vin substitutes the succulent thigh meat of young chickens and white wine for an old bird and red wine. The sauce is thickened with a little cornstarch, and the dish takes far less time to cook. Serve with quinoa or long-grain white rice.

H[cel[Wdobeei[\Wj\hecj^[Y^_Ya[dj^_]^i"WdZYkj _d^Wb\b[d]j^mWoi$I[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$ >[Wj^Wb\j^[eb_l[e_bWdZj^[Xkjj[h_dWbWh][iWkj fWd el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj$ 8hemd j^[ Y^_Ya[d f_[Y[i ed Xej^i_Z[i"WXekj-c_dkj[i"_djmeXWjY^[i_\d[Y[iiWho$ H[cel[j^[fWd\hecj^[^[Wj$Fekhj^[XhWdZoel[hj^[ Y^_Ya[d"Wl[hjoekh\WY["WdZYWh[\kbbo_]d_j[$M^[dj^[ ÅWc[iZ_[Zemd"jhWdi\[hj^[Y^_Ya[dWdZWdo`k_Y[ije WXemb$ H[jkhdj^[fWdjec[Z_kc ^[Wj"WdZWZZj^[h[cW_d_d] eb_l[e_bIj_h_dj^[ed_edWdZ Yeeakdj_bjhWdibkY[dj"WXekj + c_dkj[i$ Ij_h _d j^[ ]Whb_Y$ 7ZZj^[m_d["iYhWf_d]m_j^W meeZ[d ifeed je Xh_d] kf Wbbj^[Xhemd[ZX_ji\hecj^[

QPVOETCPOFMFTT TLJOMFTTDIJDLFOUIJHIT 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM UBCMFTQPPOVOTBMUFE CVUUFS DVQCSBOEZ POJPO DIPQQFE HBSMJDDMPWFT DIPQQFE DVQ$IBSEPOOBZ UPDVQTHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI CBZMFBWFT TUSJQTMFBOCBDPO EJDFE PVODFTTIBMMPUT QFFMFEBOETFQBSBUFE BMPOHOBUVSBMEJWJTJPOT NFEJVNXIJUFPS CSPXONVTISPPNT BCPVUQPVOE

IBMWFE UBCMFTQPPODPSOTUBSDI DVQDIPQQFEQBSTMFZ N

4FSWFT

OV_Q`

87

Xejjece\j^[fWd"WdZXh_d]jeWXe_b$7ZZj^[XWob[Wl[i$ H[jkhdj^[Y^_Ya[dWdZWYYkckbWj[Z`k_Y[ijej^[fWd" WZZ 'À(Ykfe\j^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^"WdZXh_d]jeWi_cc[h$ H[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"Yel[h"WdZi_cc[h\eh'+c_dkj[i$ Jkhd j^[ Y^_Ya[d f_[Y[i" WZZ_d] ceh[ Y^_Ya[d ijeYa _\ d[Y[iiWhojefh[l[djZho_d]ekj"WdZYedj_dk[i_cc[h_d] kdj_b j^[ Y^_Ya[d _i j[dZ[h WdZ j^[ `k_Y[i hkd Yb[Wh _\ f_[hY[Zm_j^Wad_\[j_f"Wdej^[h'+c_dkj[i$ C[Wdm^_b["^[WjWbWh][ia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj WdZ WZZ j^[ XWYed$ M^[d j^[ \Wj ijWhji je hkd" ( je ) c_dkj[i"WZZj^[i^WbbejiWdZcki^heeci$IWkjkdj_b b_]^jboYebeh[Z"+c_dkj[i"j^[dWZZ'À(YkfY^_Ya[dXhej^ WdZXh_d]jeWXe_b$H[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"Yel[hj^[fWd" WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj[dZ[h"'&je'+c_dkj[i"Z[f[dZ_d]ed j^[i_p[e\j^[i^Wbbeji$ M^[dh[WZojei[hl["WZZj^[i^WbbejiWdZcki^heeci je j^[ Y^_Ya[d$ C_n j^[ YehdijWhY^ m_j^ ' jWXb[ifeed mWj[h"ij_h_djej^[iWkY["WdZb[jXkXXb[kdj_b_jj^_Ya[di WdZ Yb[Whi" )& i[YedZi eh b[ii$ JhWdi\[h je W ^[Wj[Z i[hl_d]Z_i^"Z_iYWhZ_d]j^[XWob[Wl[i"WdZifh_dab[m_j^ j^[fWhib[o$

..

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

T_\b[Q PUVPXR[ _\YY dVaU ^bV[\N 5 )*4 61 4$ " - & 7 &3 4*0 / 0 ' meat loaf becomes a pâté when cold, and will keep refrigerated for three days. Serve hot with a marinara sauce, or cold with salad greens. The secret ingredient—quinoa ﬂakes—promotes a smooth texture, and paper-thin zucchini slices, rather than fat, keep it moist. Vacuum-packed prosciutto is the best choice here, as the slices are large and uniform and are separated by paper sheets for easy handling.

>[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$BWoWbWh][i^[[je\Wbkc_dkc \e_bedWmehaikh\WY["WdZb_]^jbo]h[Wi[Wd.s.#_dY^ Wh[W_dj^[Y[dj[hm_j^eb_l[e_b$ 9hWYaj^[[]]_djeWc_n_d]Xemb"WdZX[Wjb_]^jbo$Ij_h _dj^[ehWd][p[ij"pkYY^_d_"gk_deW"iWbj"f[ff[h"\[dd[b i[[Zi"WdZf_ijWY^_ei"_\ki_d]$7ZZj^[]hekdZY^_Ya[d WdZ c_n ][djbo Xkj j^ehek]^bo$ BWo ) eh * ib_Y[i e\ j^[ fheiY_kjje ed j^[ \e_b" ib_]^jbo el[hbWff_d]" je \ehc W ,s.#_dY^h[YjWd]b[$CekdZj^[Y^_Ya[dc_njkh[Wbed] j^[Y[dj[hWjWh_]^jWd]b[jej^[ib_Y[i"\ehc_d]Whebb$ 8h_d]j^[fheiY_kjjekfWhekdZXej^i_Z[i$BWoWdej^[h ib_Y[e\fheiY_kjjeb[d]j^m_i[Wbed]j^[jefWdZfWj_dje fbWY[1_jm_bbYb_d]jej^[hebb$Jkhdj^[hebbel[hiej^Wj j^[ijh_f[Zikh\WY[_iedjef"WdZXhki^b_]^jbom_j^eb_l[ e_b$Ki_d]j^[\e_bWiWib_d]"jhWdi\[hj^[hebbWdZ\e_bjeW

&YUSBWJSHJOPMJWFPJM MBSHFFHH UFBTQPPOTNJODFE PSBOHF[FTU NFEJVN[VDDIJOJ WFSZ UIJOMZTMJDFE DVQRVJOPBºBLFT UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL QFQQFS UFBTQPPOGFOOFM TFFET DSVTIFE DVQESZSPBTUFE VOTBMUFEQJTUBDIJPT PQUJPOBM QPVOECPOFMFTT TLJOMFTTDIJDLFOMFH NFBU DPBSTFMZHSPVOE TFFQBHF

UPMBSHFTMJDFT BCPVU PVODFT QSPTDJVUUP N

4FSWFT

OV_Q`

89

i^WbbemheWij_d]fWd$8Wa["kdYel[h[Z"kdj_b`kijYeea[Z j^hek]^ WdZ W c[Wj j^[hcec[j[h _di[hj[Z d[Wh j^[ Y[dj[hh[]_ij[hi',+<"WXekj+&c_dkj[i$B[jj^[Y^_Ya[d hebbYeeb\eh'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[ib_Y_d]$ $NKQJ@ DE?GAJ

8ko h[WZo#]hekdZ Y^_Ya[d c[Wj edbo \hec W h[b_WXb[ cWha[jm_j^W^_]^jkhdel[h$=_l[d^Wb\WY^WdY["XWYj[h_W h[`e_Y[WdZckbj_fboedj^[cWdoikh\WY[ie\]hekdZhWm fekbjho" eh Wdo c[Wj \eh j^Wj cWjj[h" j^Wj¼i b[\j i_jj_d] WhekdZ$ 7bj[hdWj_l[bo" ]h_dZ Y^_Ya[d oekhi[b\ _d W \eeZ fheY[iieh$ M_j^ j^[ cejeh hkdd_d]" Zhef Xed[b[ii WdZ ia_db[ii Y^kdai j^hek]^ j^[ \[[Z jkX[" ijeff_d] m^[d j^[ c[Wj _i YeWhi[bo ]hekdZ$ :ed¼j el[hZe _j" eh oek¼bb [dZkfm_j^WfWij[$

/&

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

PUVPXR[ N[Q ^bV[\N Z\_\PPN[ `afYR */ 5 )*4 7" 3*"5 *0/ 0/ North African couscous, a savory dish of semolina grains steamed over a savory chicken or lamb and vegetable stew, quinoa replaces the wheat couscous. The traditional accompaniment for couscous is an incendiary condiment called harissa. Make it ﬁrst.

I[Wied j^[ Y^_Ya[d m_j^ iWbj WdZ f[ff[h$ >[Wj ( jWXb[ifeedi e\ j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W '&# eh '(#_dY^ iWkj fWdel[hc[Z_kc#^_]^^[Wjkdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[ Y^_Ya[d"WdZiWkjkdj_bXhemd[Zedj^[ekji_Z[Xkjij_bb ib_]^jbof_da_dj^[Y[dj[hYkjjej[ij"WXekj*c_dkj[i$ I[jWi_Z[edWfbWj[$ 7ZZ j^[ h[cW_d_d] jWXb[ifeed eb_l[ e_b je j^[ fWd$ 7ZZj^[ed_edWdZ]Whb_Y"WdZYeea"ij_hh_d]e\j[d"kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" WXekj + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ ]_d][h" Ykc_d" iW\\hed"WdZh[Zf[ff[hÅWa[i"WdZYeeakdj_b\hW]hWdj" )& i[YedZi$ 7ZZ j^[ YWhheji" X[bb f[ff[h" jecWje[i" WdZ Y^_Ya[d Xhej^$ H[ZkY[ j^[ ^[Wj je bem$ I_cc[h" kdYel[h[Z" kdj_b j^[ l[][jWXb[i Wh[ j[dZ[h#Yh_if" WXekj '& c_dkj[i$ Ij_h _d j^[ pkYY^_d_" WdZ Yedj_dk[ Yeea_d] kdj_bj[dZ[h"WXekj'&c_dkj[ibed][h$JWij[WdZWZ`kij j^[i[Wied_d]m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$H[jkhdj^[Y^_Ya[d jej^[fWd"WdZ][djboh[^[Wj$ JecWa[j^[]Whd_i^0J[dc_dkj[iX[\eh[j^[Y^_Ya[d _ih[WZo"^[Wjj^[eb_l[e_b_dWia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj$

QPVOECPOFEBOE TLJOOFEDIJDLFOCSFBTU NFBU DVUJOUPJODI DIVOLT 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM POJPO DIPQQFE HBSMJDDMPWF NJODFE UFBTQPPOHSPVOE HJOHFS UFBTQPPOHSPVOE DVNJO (FOFSPVTQJODIPG TBGGSPOUISFBETPS UFBTQPPOHSPVOE UVSNFSJD UFBTQPPOESJFESFE QFQQFSºBLFT DVQTCBCZDBSSPUT SFECFMMQFQQFS SJCT BOETFFETSFNPWFE DVUJOUPJODIDIVOLT SJQFUPNBUPFT DPSFE BOEDVUJOUPJODI DIVOLT

OV_Q`

91

DVQTHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI [VDDIJOJ RVBSUFSFE MFOHUIXJTFBOEDVU JOUPJODIDIVOLT g a rn i s h UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM DVQDIPQQFEXBMOVUT PSQJOFOVUT DVQSBJTJOT TPBLFE JOIPUXBUFSGPS NJOVUFT ESBJOFE DVQMJHIUMZQBDLFE GSFTIDJMBOUSPMFBWFT TUFNTEJTDBSEFE )BSJTTB4BVDF SFDJQF GPMMPXT 2VJOPB SFDJQFGPMMPXT

N

/(

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

7ZZj^[mWbdkji"WdZXhemdb_]^jbo"(c_dkj[i$Ij_h_dj^[ hW_i_di"WdZh[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj$ Jei[hl["cekdZj^[gk_deWedjeWmWhc[ZfbWjj[heh* mWhc[ZZ_dd[hfbWj[i$Ifeedj^[Y^_Ya[d"l[][jWXb[i"WdZ Xhej^el[hj^[gk_deW$=Whd_i^m_j^j^[mWbdkji"hW_i_di" WdZY_bWdjhe$FWiij^[^Wh_iiWWjj^[jWXb[$I[hl[i*$

UN_V``N `NbPR 9ecX_d[(je)jWXb[ifeedih[Zf[ff[hÅWa[i"*j[Wifeedi YWhWmWoi[[Zi"(j[WifeediYkc_di[[Zi"WdZ'j[Wifeed iWbj_dWif_Y[]h_dZ[hehYb[Wd[b[Yjh_YYe\\[[c_bb"WdZ ]h_dZjeWYeWhi[femZ[h$CWi^*Y^eff[Z]Whb_YYbel[i jeWfWij[$?dWicWbbiWkY[fWd"YecX_d[j^[]Whb_YfWij[ m_j^j^[]hekdZif_Y[iWdZ 'À)Ykf[njhWl_h]_deb_l[e_b$ I_cc[hl[ho][djbo\eh+c_dkj[i$B[jYeeb$CWa[iWXekj 'À(Ykf$I[hl[_dWicWbbXemb$

^bV[\N 7^Wb\^ekhX[\eh[_j_id[[Z[Z"h_di[j^[gk_deWjemWi^ e\\ Wdo dWjkhWbbo eYYkhh_d] X_jj[h iWfed_di$ 8h_d] j^[ Xhej^jeWXe_bel[h^_]^^[Wj$7ZZj^[gk_deWWdZiWbj" _\d[[Z[Zj^[Xhej^cWoX[iWbjo[dek]^1_\ki_d]mWj[h" WZZ 'À(j[WifeediWbj"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"Yel[hj^[ fWd" WdZ i_cc[h kdj_b j^[ ]hW_di Wh[ j[dZ[h WdZ j^[ b_gk_Z_iWXiehX[Z"WXekj'+c_dkj[i$

DVQMJHIUZFMMPXRVJOPB DVQTHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUIPSXBUFS 4BMU PQUJPOBM

OV_Q`

93

PUVPXR[ dVaU Zb`U_\\Z `abSSV[T UPQPVOEDIJDLFO TLJOJOUBDU stuffing PVODFESJFEQPSDJOJ NVTISPPNT TPBLFE JOXBSNXBUFSGPS NJOVUFT DVQRVJOPBºBLFT UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS TPGUFOFE UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM TNBMMPOJPO NJODFE HBSMJDDMPWFT NJODFE QPSUPCFMMPNVTISPPN BCPVUPVODFT ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE PVODFTQSPTDJVUUP ¹OFMZDIPQQFE UFBTQPPOTDIPQQFE GSFTIUIZNFPS UFBTQPPOESJFEUIZNF 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS

/*

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

8& "-5):"/$*&/530."/4'"5 5&/&% chickens on bread soaked in wine and hydromel, a kind of liquor made with fermented honey. The birds gorged themselves silly, attained an enormous weight, and were reputed to taste exquisite. Not having any chickens or mead with which to practice, I can’t vouch for the Roman method, but I can recommend enhancing a regular chicken’s size and ﬂavor by stufﬁng it under the skin. To make the savory stufﬁng, you will need bread crumbs made from day-old Quick White Rice Flour Flatbread (page 133).

H[cel[Wdo[nY[ii\WjWdZj^[]_Xb[ji\hecj^[Y^_Ya[d" h_di["WdZfWjZho$Ki_d]fekbjhoi^[WhiehWi^Whfad_\["Ykj Wbed] [_j^[h i_Z[ e\ j^[ XWYaXed[" j^hek]^ j^[ h_Xi" WdZ Z_iYWhZ_j$Ef[dj^[X_hZekjWdZ]_l[_jWÄhcXbemehjme" ki_d]j^[^[[be\oekh^WdZ"jeÅWjj[dj^[Xh[Wij\khj^[h$ Je cWa[ j^[ ijk\Äd]0 B_\j j^[ fehY_d_ f_[Y[i \hec j^[ Xemb" h[i[hl_d] j^[ WhecWj_YieWa_d]b_gk_Z \ehWdej^[hki["igk[[p[ Zho"WdZY^efÄd[bo$ >[Wj*jWXb[ifeedi e\ j^[ Xkjj[h WdZ j^[ eb_l[ e_b m^_Y^ m_bb

fh[l[dj _j \hec iYehY^_d] _d W bWh][ iWkj fWd el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_ed" ]Whb_Y" fehjeX[bbe" fehY_d_" WdZ fheiY_kjje$ Ifh_dab[ m_j^ j^[ j^oc[" WdZ i[Wied m_j^ iWbj WdZ f[ff[h$ I_cc[h ][djbo kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" WXekj '& c_dkj[i$ Ij_h _d j^[ Xh[WZ YhkcXi WdZgk_deWÅWa[i"WdZh[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj$B[jYeeb\eh '&c_dkj[i"WdZij_h_dj^[[]]$ Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)-+<$ Beei[dj^[ia_de\j^[Y^_Ya[d\hecj^[Å[i^el[hj^[ Xh[WijWdZb[]im_j^oekhÄd][hi"X[_d]YWh[\kbdejjej[Wh _j"XkjZed¼jZ[jWY^Wjj^[i_Z[i$?di[hjicWbb^WdZ\kbie\ ijk\Äd] kdZ[h j^[ ia_d" fki^_d] _j Wbed] \hec ed jef$ CebZWdZfbkcfj^[X_hZ_dje_jieh_]_dWbi^Wf[$CWa[ jme '#_dY^ ib_ji _d j^[ ia_d `kij i^ehj e\ j^[ Zhkcij_Ya [dZi"jemWhZj^[jW_b$Fea[j^[Zhkcij_Yaij^hek]^j^[ ib_jiWdZ \ebZj^[m_d] j_fikdZ[h"m^_Y^ ^[bfi je a[[f j^[ Y^_Ya[d ÅWj Wi _j heWiji$ Ic[Wh m_j^ j^[ h[cW_d_d] jWXb[ifeedXkjj[hWdZifh_dab[m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$FbWY[ ed W hWYa _d W heWij_d] fWd$ HeWij kdj_b ]ebZ[d Xhemd WdZ Wd _dijWdj#h[WZ c[Wj j^[hcec[j[h _di[hj[Z _d j^[ Xh[Wijh[WY^[i',+<" XWij_d] jm_Y[m_j^ j^[ fWd `k_Y[i W\j[hj^[Ähij^Wb\^ekh"WXekj*&c_dkj[i_dWbb$JhWdi\[h jeWmWhc[ZfbWjj[h"WdZZ_iYWhZj^[\WjjoZh_ff_d]i$B[j h[ij\eh'&c_dkj[i"WdZYkj_djegkWhj[hi$

DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF

'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT QBHF

MBSHFFHH MJHIUMZ CFBUFO N

4FSWFT

OV_Q`

95

YRZ\[ ] N_`YRf PUVPXR[ YRT` XIPMFDIJDLFOMFHT UPPVODFTFBDI UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM TNBMMPOJPO ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE QBSTMFZ (SBUFE[FTUPGMFNPO DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF 'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT QBHF

'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS N

/,

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

4 5 6''*/( 8 )0-& $)*$,&/ -&(4 under the skin with a mixture of onion, parsley, lemon, and rice ﬂour bread crumbs makes them look and taste special, and they can be prepared several hours ahead of baking. A pilaf made with rice, millet, or quinoa goes well here.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$B_d[Wi^WbbemXWa_d]fWd ehWh_cc[ZXWa_d]i^[[jm_j^Wbkc_dkc\e_b$ I[fWhWj[j^[ia_de\j^[Y^_Ya[db[]i\hecj^[Å[i^m_j^ oekhÄd][hi"XkjZed¼jZ[jWY^Wjj^[i_Z[i$9kjj^hek]^j^[ ia_dWhekdZj^[`e_dj"i[l[h_d]Wbbj^[m^_j[j[dZedi$Ki_d] WfWf[hjem[b\ehW]eeZ]h_f"^ebZj^[j[dZedied[WjW j_c[ WdZ fkbb1 j^[d Ykj ekj Wi ckY^ Wi feii_Xb[$ J^[i[ j[dZedi jek]^[d [l[d ceh[ m^[d Yeea[Z" ie h[cel_d] j^[ccWa[ij^[Zhkcij_Yac[Wjceh[_dl_j_d]$ >[Wj(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[Xkjj[hWdZj^[eb_l[e_bm^_Y^ m_bbfh[l[djiYehY^_d]_dWia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj$7ZZ j^[ed_edWdZYeea][djbokdj_bie\j[d[ZXkjdejXhemd[Z" WXekj - c_dkj[i$ Ij_h _d j^[ fWhib[o" b[ced p[ij" WdZ Xh[WZYhkcXi"WdZ h[cel[ \hec j^[ ^[Wj$ I[Wied m_j^

iWbjWdZf[ff[hWdZb[jYeeb\eh'&c_dkj[i$J^[ijk\Äd] m_bbbeeaZho$ ?di[hj ed[#gkWhj[h e\ j^[ ijk\Äd] kdZ[h j^[ ia_d e\ [WY^Y^_Ya[db[]"b_a[Äbb_d]WXW]"fki^_d]_jWbed]\hec ed jef$ CebZ WdZ fbkcf j^[ Y^_Ya[d b[]i XWYa _dje j^[_h eh_]_dWb i^Wf[$ J^[ Y^_Ya[d YWd X[ h[\h_][hWj[Z Wjj^_iijW][$FbWY[_dj^[XWa_d]fWdWdZic[Whj^[c m_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeede\Xkjj[h$I[Wiedb_]^jbo m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$HeWij\eh(&c_dkj[i"XWij[m_j^ j^[ h[dZ[h[Z \Wj" WdZ Yedj_dk[ heWij_d] \eh Wdej^[h (& c_dkj[ikdj_bj^[ia_d_iXhemdWdZYh_ifoWdZj^[`k_Y[i hkdYb[Whm^[df_[hY[Zm_j^Wad_\[j_f$

OV_Q`

97

PUVPXR[ dVaU PRYR_ f N[Q aN__NT\[ QPVOETDIJDLFO UIJHINFBU TLJOMFTT BOECPOFMFTT 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOEXIJUFQFQQFS DVQXIJUFSJDFºPVS UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM UBCMFTQPPOTEJDFE QBODFUUB POJPO EJDFE DFMFSZSJCT EFTUSJOHFE BOEDIPQQFE UFBTQPPOTDIPQQFE GSFTIUBSSBHPOPS UFBTQPPOESJFE UBSSBHPO DVQXIJUFXJOF DVQHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI 'JOFMZDIPQQFEDFMFSZ MFBWFT N

/.

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

"30."5 *$ '3&/$) 5" 33 "(0/ 5 63/4 simple ingredients into an outstanding dish. Serve with Quick White Rice Flour Flatbread (page 133) or basmati rice for taking up the sauce.

9kjj^[Y^_Ya[dj^_]^i_d^Wb\b[d]j^m_i[WdZi[Wied m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$@kijX[\eh[Yeea_d]"Zkijm_j^h_Y[ Åekh"i^Wa_d]e\\j^[[nY[ii$:ej^_iWjj^[bWijc_dkj[ iej^[oZed¼jX[Yec[]kccoWdZ_d^_X_jj^[Xhemd_d] fheY[ii$ ?dWiWkjfWd"^[Wjj^[eb_l[e_bel[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj kdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[Y^_Ya[df_[Y[i"WdZXhemded Xej^i_Z[i"WXekj+c_dkj[i$H[cel[jeWfbWj[$ 7ZZ j^[ fWdY[jjW" ed_ed" Y[b[ho" WdZ jWhhW]ed" WdZ Yeeakdj_bj^[l[][jWXb[iWh[ie\j[d[ZXkjdejYebeh[Z" WXekj+c_dkj[i$7ZZj^[m_d[jej^[fWd"iYhWf_d]kf Wdo]eeZXhemd[ZX_ji"WdZb[jXkXXb[\eh(c_dkj[ije h[ZkY[ib_]^jbo$Ij_h_dj^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^"WdZXh_d]jeW Xe_b$H[jkhdj^[Y^_Ya[djej^[fWd"jkhd_d]jeYeWjm[bb$ H[ZkY[j^[^[Wj"Yel[h"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj^[Y^_Ya[d_i Yeea[Zj^hek]^"jkhd_d]edY["WXekj'+c_dkj[i$JWij[ \ehi[Wied_d]$:_l_Z[j^[Y^_Ya[dWced]mWhc[ZfbWj[i$ Ifeedj^[iWkY[edjef"WdZiYWjj[hm_j^Y[b[hob[Wl[i$

PUVPXR[ N[Q PUR`a[ba `\b] 3 "5)&3 -*,& " $- " 44*$ game soup in taste and texture, this velvety chestnut soup contains chunks of juicy, just-cooked-through chicken rather than the more usual croutons. It makes a spectacular ﬁrst course for a fall or winter dinner party. Canned chestnut purée is very dense, so it helps to chop it before adding to the soup.

?dWbWh][fej"c[bj(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[Xkjj[hel[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_ed WdZ Y[b[ho WdZ Yeea" ij_hh_d]" kdj_b ie\j[d[Z Xkj dej Yebeh[Z" ) c_dkj[i$ Ij_h _d j^[ >[hX[i Z[ Fhel[dY[ 8b[dZ$ 7ZZ j^[ Y^_Ya[d Xhej^WdZj^[Y^[ijdkjfkh["Yhki^_d]_j_djej^[Xhej^ m_j^ W fejWje cWi^[h kdj_b iceej^$ I_cc[h" ij_hh_d] eYYWi_edWbbo"kdj_bj^[l[][jWXb[iWh[j[dZ[h"(&c_dkj[i$ J^[iekfm_bbj^_Ya[dWi_jYeeai1_\_j][jijeej^_Ya"WZZ Wb_jjb[mWj[h$JWij["WdZWZZiWbjWdZf[ff[hWid[[Z[Z" h[c[cX[h_d]j^Wjj^[Xhej^m_bbfheXWXboYedjW_diWbj$ C[Wdm^_b["c[bjj^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeedXkjj[h_d Wia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj$7ZZj^[Y^_Ya[d"WdZiWkj kdj_b`kijYeea[Zj^hek]^"WXekj'c_dkj[$I[Wiedb_]^jbo m_j^ iWbj WdZ f[ff[h" WdZ WZZ je j^[ iekf `kij X[\eh[ i[hl_d]$ BWZb[ _dje mWhc[Z iekf Xembi$
UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS TNBMMPOJPO ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE DFMFSZSJCT EFTUSJOHFE BOE¹OFMZDIPQQFE UFBTQPPOT)FSCFTEF 1SPWFODF#MFOE QBHF

PSUFBTQPPO ESJFETUPSFCPVHIU CMFOE DVQTHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI PVODF DBO VOTXFFUFOFEDIFTUOVU QVSnF TVDIBT $MnNFOU'BVHJFS 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS CPOFMFTTBOETLJOMFTT DIJDLFOUIJHIT PVODFTFBDI

XFMM USJNNFEBOEDVUJO JODIDVCFT UBCMFTQPPOTTPVS DSFBN

OV_Q`

99

$IPQQFEDFMFSZMFBWFT GSPNUPQTPGTNBMM JOOFSSJCT N

'&&

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

-NAL=NEJC AHANU

J^[ edbo idW] je ki_d] j^_i WhecWj_Y l[][jWXb[ _i j^Wj j^[ ÄXheki ijh_d]i Zed¼j ie\j[d Zkh_d] Yeea_d]" m^_Y^ YWd cWa[ [l[d Z_Y[Z Y[b[ho kd[nf[Yj[Zbo Y^[mo$ M^_f j^[jek]^ijh_d]ie\\_di[YedZiXohkdd_d]Wl[][jWXb[ f[[b[hel[hj^[XWYae\[WY^h_XX[\eh[ki_d]$

UR_OR` QR ]_\cR[PR OYR[Q 5)*4 $- " 44*$ )&3# #-&/% originated in southern France, where wild herbs grow in profusion on sunny hillsides. You can buy imported dried Herbes de Provence blends, but making your own fresh blend gives even more aromatic results. Dried lavender for culinary use is available at natural foods stores.

Ki_d]WcehjWhWdZf[ijb["fekdZj^[bWl[dZ[hkdj_bXhea[d kf$?\oekZed¼j^Wl[WcehjWh"[dYbei[j^[bWl[dZ[h_dfbWij_Y mhWfWdZfekdZm_j^j^[XWi[e\W^[WloiWkY[fWd$8b[dZ m_j^ j^[ c_dY[Z hei[cWho" j^oc[" WdZ cWh`ehWc$ Ijeh[ Wdo[njhW_dj^[\h[[p[h$

UFBTQPPOESJFE

MBWFOEFS UFBTQPPOTGSFTI SPTFNBSZMFBWFT NJODFE UFBTQPPOTGSFTIUIZNF MFBWFT NJODFE UFBTQPPOGSFTI NBSKPSBNMFBWFT NJODFE

N

.BLFTBCPVUUFBTQPPOT

OV_Q`

101

aUR cR_`NaVYR PUR`a[ba ;l[dj^ek]^_j¼iWdkj"j^[\WjYedj[dje\j^[;khef[WdY^[ijdkj_ibem"b[iij^Wd)f[hY[dj"iem^[d Zh_[ZWdZ]hekdZ"Y^[ijdkjicWa[Wki[\kbÅekh$O[WhiW]e"feeh?jWb_WdYekdjhoZm[bb[him_j^de WYY[iijem^[WjÅekhXWa[ZWdkdb[Wl[d[ZY^[ijdkjÅekhÅWjXh[WZedW^ej^[Whj^ijed["hWj^[hb_a[ jhWZ_j_edWbIYejj_i^eWjYWa[iehC[n_YWdjehj_bbWi$8kjm^[dj_c[i]ejX[jj[h"Xh[WZcWZ[\hecm^[Wj jeea_jifbWY[$JeZWo"?jWb_WdiXWa[Wi_c_bWhZ[di["bem"kdim[[j[d[ZYWa[ÅWleh[Zm_j^eb_l[e_bWdZ hei[cWho"YWbb[ZYWijW]dWYY_e"Xkjki[Wdel[dhWj^[hj^WdW^[Whj^ijed[$ 8oYedjhWij"YWdZ_[ZY^[ijdkji"Y^[ijdkjfWijh_[i"WdZY^[ijdkjifh[WZWh[bknkho\eeZi[d`eo[Z Wbbel[h;khef[$9^[ijdkjÅekhcWa[i]eeZYWa[i"fWdYWa[i"WdZifW[jpb[$ 7bj^ek]^_j¼idWjkhWbboim[[j"j^[
'&(

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

_\N`a PN]\[ dVaU PUR`a[ba N[Q `Nb`NTR Q_R``V[T &±3& " -- 40 64&% to eating very young 8 chickens that the taste and texture of a properly raised mature one comes as a delicious surprise. A capon is simply a neutered chicken, fattened slowly until it reaches a majestic size and has developed some real ﬂavor. You can order one from a butcher, or from the meat department of a store such as Whole Foods, but if that’s not an option, buy a big, free-range roasting chicken instead. As with turkey, hallowed additions such as ﬂuffy mashed potatoes and cranberry sauce complete the picture.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)-+<$ H[cel[ Wdo ]_Xb[ji \hec j^[ YWl_jo" WdZ h_di[ j^[ YWfed_di_Z[WdZekj$FWjZhom_j^fWf[hjem[bi$Fkjj^[ ed_ed_dWicWbbXemb"WZZj^[>[hX[iZ[Fhel[dY[8b[dZ" WdZi[Wiedm_j^fb[djoe\iWbjWdZf[ff[h$J_fj^[ed_ed WdZi[Wied_d]_djej^[YWl_jo"WdZj_[j^[b[]ije][j^[h m_j^XkjY^[h¼ijm_d[$FbWY[j^[X_hZedWhWYa_dWheWij_d] fWd"WdZic[Whm_j^j^[Xkjj[h$9el[hb_]^jbom_j^Wi^[[j e\ Wbkc_dkc \e_b$ HeWij \eh ( ^ekhi" WdZ h[cel[ j^[ \e_b$?\edboed[el[d_iWlW_bWXb["WZZj^[XWa_d]Z_i^e\ IWkiW][WdZ9^[ijdkj:h[ii_d]dem$9edj_dk[heWij_d] j^[X_hZ\ehWdej^[h(&c_dkj[i¸YWbYkbWj_d]WjejWbe\ (&c_dkj[if[hfekdZfbki(&c_dkj[i[njhW¸kdj_bm[bb

QPVOEDBQPOPS SPBTUJOHDIJDLFO POJPO RVBSUFSFE UBCMFTQPPO)FSCFTEF 1SPWFODF#MFOE QBHF PSUFBTQPPOT ESJFETUPSFCPVHIU CMFOE 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS TPGUFOFE 4BVTBHFBOE$IFTUOVU %SFTTJOH QBHF

DVQTHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI DVQNFEJVNESZ TIFSSZ UBCMFTQPPOT DPSOTUBSDI N

4FSWFT

OV_Q`

103

Xhemd[ZWdZWc[Wjj^[hcec[j[h_di[hj[Z_dj^[Xh[Wij h[WZi ',+<$ JhWdi\[h je W mWhc[Z fbWjj[h" j[dj beei[bo m_j^\e_b"WdZb[jh[ij\eh'+c_dkj[i$ JecWa[j^[]hWlo0Fekhj^[Yeea_d]`k_Y[i\hecj^[ heWij_d]fWd_djeW]bWiic[Wikh_d]Ykf$M^[dj^[\Wj h_i[i" ifeed e\\ ( jWXb[ifeedi WdZ h[jkhd je j^[ fWd$ :_iYWhZj^[h[cW_d_d]\Wj"Xkjh[i[hl[j^[Yb[WhY^_Ya[d `k_Y[iWdZXb[dZj^[cm_j^j^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^$FbWY[j^[ heWij_d]fWdel[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj"WdZWZZj^[i^[hho$ Ki_d]WmeeZ[difeed"iYhWf[kfj^[]eeZXhemd[ZX_ji$ 7ZZj^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^"WdZXh_d]jeWXe_b$IjhW_d_djeW iWkY[fWd"fbWY[el[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj"WdZi_cc[h\eh '&c_dkj[i$8b[dZj^[YehdijWhY^m_j^'À*YkfYebZmWj[h$ Ij_h_d"WdZb[jXkXXb[kdj_bj^[]hWloj^_Ya[diWdZYb[Whi" )& i[YedZi eh b[ii$ JWij[" WZ`kij i[Wied_d]" WdZ fekh _djeW^[Wj[ZiWkY[XeWj$9Whl[j^[YWfed"WdZi[hl[m_j^ j^[Zh[ii_d]WdZ]hWlo$

'&*

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

`Nb`NTR N[Q PUR`a[ba Q_R``V[T

4 0 1 0 1 6 - " 3 5 ) "5 * 5 upstages the holiday bird, this rich and savory dressing is baked in a casserole, since stufﬁng cooked inside the cavity absorbs a huge amount of rendered poultry fat. If you prefer a moist texture to a crumbly one, just add more chicken broth. Remember to make gluten-free bread for the bread crumbs ahead of time. Pine nuts can be used in lieu of chestnuts if you prefer, or if chestnuts are hard to ﬁnd.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)-+<$ =h[Wi[ Wd . s '&#_dY^ el[d#je#jWXb[ XWa_d] Z_i^ m_j^ ( jWXb[ifeedi e\ j^[ Xkjj[h$ C[bj j^[ h[cW_d_d] ( jWXb[ifeedi Xkjj[h el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj _d W bWh][ ia_bb[j$7ZZj^[ed_edWdZY[b[ho"WdZYeea"ij_hh_d]"kdj_b jhWdibkY[dj"-je.c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjeWfbWj[$?dYh[Wi[ j^[^[Wjjec[Z_kc"WdZWZZj^[feha"iW]["b[cedp[ij" WdZ fWdY[jjW$ IWkj kdj_b j^[ feha bei[i _ji f_da Yebeh" WXekj-c_dkj[i"Xh[Wa_d]_jkfm[bb$I[jWi_Z[$ FbWY[j^[Xh[WZYhkcXi_dWbWh][Xemb$:h_ppb[m_j^''À( Ykfie\j^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^b_jjb[Xob_jjb["jeii_d]Wjj^[iWc[ j_c[" kdj_b [l[dbo ce_ij[d[Z$ 7ZZ j^[ ed_ed WdZ Y[b[ho" iWkiW][ c_njkh[" gk_deW ÅWa[i" Y^[ijdkji" >[hX[i Z[ Fhel[dY[8b[dZ"WdZfWhib[o$I[WiedjejWij[m_j^iWbjWdZ f[ff[h"h[c[cX[h_d]j^Wjj^[Y^_Ya[dXhej^m_bbYedjW_d

UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS MBSHFPOJPO DIPQQFE DFMFSZSJCT EFTUSJOHFE BOEDIPQQFE QPVOEHSPVOEQPSL DSVNCMFE UFBTQPPONJODFETBHF PSUFBTQPPOESJFE TBHF (SBUFE[FTUPGMFNPO PVODFTQBODFUUB ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE DVQTTPGUCSFBE DSVNCTNBEFGSPN EBZPME2VJDL8IJUF 3JDF'MPVS'MBUCSFBE QBHF

UPDVQTHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI DVQRVJOPBºBLFT DVQSFBEZUPVTF SPBTUFEDIFTUOVUT DVU JOIBMG PSDVQQJOF OVUT

OV_Q`

105

UFBTQPPOT)FSCFTEF 1SPWFODF#MFOE QBHF PSUFBTQPPO ESJFETUPSFCPVHIU CMFOE DVQDIPQQFEQBSTMFZ 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS N

'&,

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

iWbj"WdZc_nm[bb$J^_icWa[iW\W_hboYhkcXboZh[ii_d]$?\ oekfh[\[hWce_ijed["WZZj^[WZZ_j_edWb 'À(YkfY^_Ya[d Xhej^$Ifeedb_]^jbo_djej^[XWa_d]Z_i^"m_j^ekjfWYa_d]$ 8Wa[" kdYel[h[Z" kdj_b j^[ jef _i b_]^jbo Xhemd[Z WdZ YhkdY^o")+je*&c_dkj[i$

TNZR UR[` dVaU _\N`aRQ a\ZNa\R` N[Q \_N[TR _VPR ]VYNS *5 ± 4 /05 %*''*$ 6-5 50 remove the backbone and tiresome little rib bones from a game hen, which makes it much easier to eat. Or ask your butcher to do it. Use very small tomatoes, as the skins on regular cherry tomatoes are too tough for this preparation. Trilogy rice blend (a mixture of white, brown, and wild rice) can be found in natural foods stores.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ =h[Wi[ W heWij_d] fWd b_]^jbom_j^eb_l[e_b$ FbWY[j^[jecWje[i_dWi^WbbemY[hWc_YXWa_d]Z_i^ bWh][ [dek]^ je ^ebZ j^[c _d ed[ bWo[h$ 7ZZ ^Wb\ j^[ ib_l[h[Z ehWd][ p[ij WdZ j^[ eb_l[ e_b$ I[Wied je jWij[ m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$Ij_hjec_nm[bb"WdZifh_dab[m_j^ j^[ik]Wh$ H[cel[j^[XWYaXed[\hec[WY^]Wc[^[dXoib_Y_d] j^hek]^ j^[ ie\j h_X Xed[i ed [_j^[h i_Z[ e\ _j$ BWo j^[ ^[diedWYkjj_d]XeWhZ"ia_di_Z[Zemd$Ib_Z[Wi^Whf fWh_d]ad_\[kdZ[hj^[h[cW_d_d]h_XYW][e\[WY^"WdZ Ykj_j\h[[$FbWY[j^[dem#ÅWjj[d[Z^[di_dj^[heWij_d] fWd"ia_di_Z[kf"WdZjkYaj^[XWob[Wl[ikdZ[hd[Wj^$ Ic[Wh [WY^ ed[ m_j^ ' j[Wifeed Xkjj[h" WdZ i[Wied b_]^jbom_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$

UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM QMVT FYUSBGPSHSFBTJOHQBO DVQTUJOZUPNBUPFT TVDIBT4XFFUT 4MJWFSFE[FTUBOEKVJDF PGPSBOHF 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS UFBTQPPOTVHBS 3PDL$PSOJTIHBNF IFOT QPVOET FBDI QSFGFSBCMZGSFTI CBZMFBWFT UFBTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS TPGUFOFE DVQHMVUFOGSFF DIJDLFOCSPUI DVQUSJMPHZSJDFCMFOE DVQESJFE;BOUF DVSSBOUT DVQTMJDFEBMNPOET MJHIUMZUPBTUFE N

4FSWFT

OV_Q`

107

FbWY[j^[^[diWdZj^[Z_i^e\jecWje[i_dj^[el[d$ HeWij j^[ ^[di kdj_b ]ebZ[d Xhemd WdZ j^[ `k_Y[i hkd Yb[Whfh_Yam_j^Wad_\[j_f_dj^[j^_]^c[Wjjej[ij"WdZ j^[jecWje[iWh[ib_]^jbomh_dab[ZWdZj[dZ[h"WXekj*& c_dkj[i$ C[Wdm^_b[" Xh_d] j^[ Y^_Ya[d Xhej^" ehWd][ `k_Y[" WdZ )À* Ykf mWj[h je W Xe_b$ 7ZZ j^[ h_Y[" YkhhWdji" WdZ h[cW_d_d]ehWd][p[ij"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjec[Z_kc#bem" Yel[h j^[ fWd" WdZ i_cc[h kdj_b j^[ h_Y[ _i j[dZ[h" )& je )+ c_dkj[i$ ?\ W b_jjb[ b_gk_Z i^ekbZ h[cW_d" _dYh[Wi[ j^[ ^[Wj WdZ Xe_b ^WhZ \eh W c_dkj[ eh jme" ij_hh_d]" kdj_b_j[lWfehWj[i$@kijX[\eh[i[hl_d]"ij_h_dj^[ib_Y[Z WbcedZi$ Je i[hl[" Ykj j^[ ^[di _d ^Wb\" Z_iYWhZ_d] j^[ XWo b[Wl[i$ 7hhWd][ ed * ^[Wj[Z Z_dd[h fbWj[i m_j^ j^[ jecWje[i"m^_Y^WYjWiWiWkY["WdZj^[f_bW\$

'&.

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

\`a_VPU Ob_TR_` dVaU _RQ dV[R `NbPR 50%": ± 4 '" 3.&% 04 5 3*$) 130% 6 $& 4 a ﬂavorful, juicy red meat, similar in taste and texture to beef, but 90 percent fat-free, which makes it lower in cholesterol and calories than all other poultry and meats, including venison. And there’s no such thing as Angry Ostrich Disease. Like other very lean meats, it’s best cooked brieﬂy. Dusting the patties with rice ﬂour helps the browning process and gives a good surface texture. Ground ostrich meat is available frozen from upscale food markets such as Whole Foods.

9hkcXb[ j^[ eijh_Y^ c[Wj _dje W Xemb$ 7ZZ j^[ []] oeba" i^Wbbej" WdZ j^oc[$ I[Wied m_j^ iWbj WdZ f[ff[h$ Ki_d]oekh^WdZi"c_nb_]^jboXkjj^ehek]^bo$I^Wf[_dje jmeelWbfWjj_[i"[WY^)À*_dY^j^_Ya$ >[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W ^[Wlo ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj$ :kij j^[ fWjj_[i m_j^ h_Y[ Åekh$ 8hemd ed Xej^ i_Z[i" jkhd_d] j^[c jm_Y[ je a[[f j^[ `k_Y[i Åem_d]" kdj_bc[Z_kchWh["WXekj+c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjemWhc[Z fbWj[i$7ZZj^[XhWdZojej^[fWdWdZb[j_ji_ppb[\ehW \[mi[YedZi"j^[dWZZj^[m_d[$B[jXkXXb[kdj_bh[ZkY[Z je*jWXb[ifeedie\b_gk_Z"ij_hh_d]kfWdoXhemd[ZX_ji _dj^[fWd"(je)c_dkj[i"WdZifeedWhekdZj^[fWjj_[i$ =Whd_i^m_j^j^oc[ifh_]i"_\ki_d]$

PVODFTHSPVOE PTUSJDI BUSPPN UFNQFSBUVSF FHHZPML MBSHFTIBMMPU ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE UFBTQPPODIPQQFE GSFTIUIZNFPS UFBTQPPOESJFEUIZNF 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM 8IJUFSJDFºPVS GPS EVTUJOH UBCMFTQPPOCSBOEZ DVQSFEXJOF 'SFTIUIZNFTQSJHT PQUJPOBM N

4FSWFT

OV_Q`

109

c[WjWdZ i[W\eeZ 53*&% " /% 5 36&$0.'035'00%4-*, & #3 " *4&% short ribs and meat loaf don’t require much tweaking to make them gluten-free, and no one ever notices the difference if a rack of lamb with a herbed crumb crust is made with rice ﬂour bread crumbs rather than the wheat-bread kind. Fish dishes, too, are easy. In fact, simple panfried ﬁsh ﬁllets taste better than usual when dusted with white rice ﬂour before sautéing. As it contains no gluten, the ﬂour doesn’t become gluey, and it imparts a crisper surface texture. Quinoa goes especially well with ﬁsh and seafood, as does rice.

'''

]\_X PU\]` N[Q ONXRQ ]\YR[aN dVaU ]R]]R_` */ 5)*4 & " 4 : 4611&3 dish, seared boneless pork chops ﬁnish cooking in the oven on a bed of buttery, herb-scented polenta. If you like, you can substitute fresh rosemary for oregano, or add a garnish of torn-up fresh basil leaves.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&<$ Fekh(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[Xkjj[h_djeWd.s'&#_dY^ XWa_d]Z_i^$7hhWd][j^[feb[djWib_Y[i_d_j"el[hbWff_d] ib_]^jbo"_dj^h[[hemi$I[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h" WdZiYWjj[hj^[Y^eff[ZX[bbf[ff[hWdZeh[]Wdeedjef$ :h_ppb[m_j^j^[h[cW_d_d](jWXb[ifeediXkjj[h$Jefm_j^ j^[FWhc[iWd$8Wa[\ehWXekj)&c_dkj[ikdj_bXkXXb_d] WdZijWhj_d]jeXhemd$ M^[dj^[feb[djW^WiXWa[Z\eh'+c_dkj[i"^[Wjj^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W ^[Wlo ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc#^_]^ ^[Wj kdj_b _ji^_cc[hi$FWjj^[Y^efiZhom_j^fWf[hjem[bi"WdZ i[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$8hemdedXej^i_Z[i" + c_dkj[i$ H[cel[ j^[ feb[djW \hec j^[ el[d" WdZ WhhWd][ j^[ Y^efi ed jef$ 7ZZ j^[ m_d[ je j^[ia_bb[jWdZb[jXkXXb[" iYhWf_d]kfj^[Xhemd[Z X_ji ed j^[ Xejjec" WdZ h[ZkY[ Xo ^Wb\"

UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS NFMUFE SPMM UPPVODFT QSFDPPLFEQPMFOUB TMJDFEJODIUIJDL 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS MBSHFSFECFMMQFQQFS CSPJMFE QFFMFE BOE SPVHIMZDIPQQFE PS UIFFRVJWBMFOUGSPNB KBS UFBTQPPODIPQQFE GSFTIPSFHBOPPS UFBTQPPOESJFE PSFHBOP UPUBCMFTQPPOT HSBUFE1BSNJHJBOP 3FHHJBOP UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM CPOFMFTTQPSLDIPQT UPPVODFTFBDI JODIUIJDL DVQESZXIJUFXJOF N

4FSWFT

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q

113

)& i[YedZi eh b[ii$ Fekh j^[ b_gk_Z el[h [WY^ Y^ef$ H[jkhdj^[XWa_d]Z_i^jej^[el[dWdZYedj_dk[XWa_d] \eh,c_dkj[ikdj_bj^[Y^efiWh[`kijYeea[Zj^hek]^$ 9eea[Zj^_imWo"m_j^`kijW^_dje\f_dam_j^_d"j^[om_bb X[`k_YoWdZj[dZ[h$

''*

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

R[ T YV`U ]\_X `Nb`NTR ]NaaVR`

5 )*4 .*9 5 63& $0/ 5" */4 3*$& ﬂour bread crumbs, rather than the usual wheat rusk, to impart the characteristic smooth texture. Making your own additive-free sausage mixture using meat from a reputable butcher means that you control the freshness, the fat content, and the all-important seasonings.

8h[Wa j^[ []] _dje W Xemb" WdZ X[Wj b_]^jbo$ 7ZZ j^[ b[ced p[ij ]hWj[ el[h j^[ Xemb _\ feii_Xb[" je kj_b_p[ j^[Äd[ifhWoe\b[cede_b"dkjc[]"iW]["iWbj"f[ff[h" WdZXh[WZYhkcXi$9hkcXb[j^[fehaWdZl[Wb_djej^[ c_njkh[" WdZ Xb[dZ je W iceej^ fWij[$ Ce_ij[d oekh ^WdZim_j^mWj[hWdZ\ehc_djei_n)À*#_dY^#j^_YafWjj_[i$ >[Wjj^[e_b_dWbWh]["dedij_Yaia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc# bem ^[Wj kdj_b _j i^_cc[hi$ 7ZZ j^[ fWjj_[i" WdZ Yeea kdj_bXhemdedXej^i_Z[iWdZYeea[Zj^hek]^"WXekj. c_dkj[i$I[hl[m_j^cWi^[ZfejWje[iWdZckijWhZ$

MBSHFFHH (SBUFE[FTUPGMFNPO UFBTQPPOHSPVOE OVUNFH UFBTQPPOESJFETBHF MFBWFT DSVNCMFE UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOGSFTIMZ HSPVOEXIJUFQFQQFS DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF 'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT QBHF

QPVOEHSPVOEQPSL TIPVMEFS QPVOEHSPVOEWFBM UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM .BTIFEQPUBUPFT .VTUBSE N

. BLFTBQQSPYJNBUFMZ QPVOETTFSWFT

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q

115

ZRNa Y\NS dVaU ^bV[\N

UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM POJPO ¹OFMZDIPQQFE DFMFSZSJC EFTUSJOHFE BOE¹OFMZDIPQQFE DVQ¹OFMZDIPQQFE GSFTIQBSTMFZTUBMLT UFBTQPPOESJFEUIZNF BODIPWZ¹MMFUT DBOOFE JOPMJWFPJM ESBJOFE DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF 'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT QBHF

DVQRVJOPBºBLFT DVQESZXIJUFXJOFPS HMVUFOGSFFCFFGCSPUI QPVOETHSPVOECFFG DIVDL QPVOEHSPVOEQPSL QPVOEHSPVOEWFBM MBSHFFHHT DVQQJTUBDIJPOVUT PQUJPOBM UFBTQPPOT¹OFTFB TBMU 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL QFQQFS N

'',

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5)*4 3& 80 3,&% $- " 44*$ *4 good hot or cold, when it makes the best sandwiches teamed with homemade crusty rice ﬂour bread. Lacking a 9 s 5-inch loaf pan, use an 8 s 4-inch standard pan and freeze the extra cup of meat mixture for meatballs or hamburgers.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ =h[Wi[ W / s +#_dY^ beW\ fWd"fh[\[hWXbo[Whj^[dmWh[eh^[Wjfhee\]bWii$ >[Wj j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj kdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[ed_ed"Y[b[ho"WdZfWhib[oijWbai" WdZYeeakdj_bie\j[d[ZXkjdejXhemd[Z"+c_dkj[i$7ZZ j^[ j^oc[ WdZ j^[ WdY^el_[i" cWi^_d] j^[c kdj_b j^[o Z_iiebl[$J^[WdY^el_[im_bbYedjh_Xkj[h_Y^d[ii"Xkjm_bb dej_cfWhjW¹Äi^oºjWij[$B[jYeebjebka[mWhc$ 9ecX_d[j^[Xh[WZYhkcXiWdZgk_deWÅWa[i_dWXemb" WdZWZZj^[m_d[$B[jijWdZkdj_bWXiehX[Z"+c_dkj[i$ 9hkcXb[j^[X[[\"feha"WdZl[Wb_djej^[Xemb"Xb[dZ_d] j^[c _dje j^[ Xh[WZ YhkcX·gk_deW c_njkh[ m_j^ oekh ^WdZi$7ZZj^[[]]i"ed_edc_njkh["f_ijWY^_ei"_\ki_d]" iWbj"WdZXbWYaf[ff[hjejWij["WdZc_nm[bb$JhWdi\[hj^[ c_njkh[jej^[beW\fWd$Iceej^j^[ikh\WY["cekdZ_d] _j kf ib_]^jbo _d j^[ Y[dj[h$ 8Wa[" kdYel[h[Z" kdj_b j^[ _dj[hdWb j[cf[hWjkh[ h[WY^[i ',+< ed Wd _dijWdj#h[WZ c[Wjj^[hcec[j[h"'je''À*^ekhi$Fekhe\\j^[\Wj"WdZ b[jh[ij_dj^[fWd\eh'&c_dkj[iX[\eh[ib_Y_d]$

_NPX \S YNZO dVaU UR_ORQ P_ bZO P_ b`a * 5 ± 4 & " 4 : 50 0 3$)& 4 5 3 "5 & this specialoccasion dish. All you have to do at the last minute is pop the prepared racks in a hot oven for 18 minutes. Unless you have an exceptional butcher, you will probably have to ﬁnish trimming the lamb yourself: using a sharp paring knife, shave off every last vestige of fat, leaving just the bones with a nubbin of tender meat at the base. Be sure to have Rice Flour Bread Crumbs (page 134) on hand for the crumb crust.

>[Wj ( jWXb[ifeedi e\ j^[ eb_l[ e_b _d W bWh][ ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc#^_]^ ^[Wj$ I[Wh j^[ bWcX ed Xej^ i_Z[i kdj_bd_Y[boXhemd[Z"WXekj+c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjeWfbWj[" WdZi[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$

UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM SBDLTPGMBNC UP SJCTFBDI USJNNFE BOEGSFODIFE BMMGBU SFNPWFE 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS UBCMFTQPPOXIPMF HSBJO%JKPONVTUBSE HBSMJDDMPWFT NJODFE UFBTQPPOT)FSCFTEF 1SPWFODF#MFOE QBHF PSUFBTQPPO ESJFETUPSFCPVHIU CMFOE DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF 'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT QBHF

UBCMFTQPPOT¹OFMZ DIPQQFEQBSTMFZ N

4FSWFT

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q

117

8b[dZj^[ckijWhZm_j^(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[eb_l[e_b" WdZi[jWi_Z[$ ?d W icWbb ia_bb[j" ^[Wj j^[ h[cW_d_d] ( jWXb[ifeedi eb_l[e_bel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj$7ZZj^[]Whb_YWdZ>[hX[i Z[Fhel[dY[8b[dZ"Yeea\eh'&i[YedZi"WdZij_h_dj^[ Xh[WZYhkcXi$H[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj"i[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^ iWbjWdZf[ff[h"WdZij_h_dj^[fWhib[o$B[jYeeb$ Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *+&<$ FbWY[ j^[ bWcX hWYai _d W i^Wbbem heWij_d] fWd" Ykhl[Z i_Z[ kf WdZ Xed[ j_fi Zemd$Ifh[WZj^[c[Wjm_j^j^[ckijWhZc_njkh["WdZ Yel[h[l[dbom_j^j^[YhkcXi$HeWijkdj_bc[Z_kchWh[ WdZ Wd _dijWdj#h[WZ c[Wj j^[hcec[j[h h[]_ij[hi ')+<" WXekj'.c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hj^[hWYaijeWmWhc[ZfbWjj[h" j[dj beei[bo m_j^ Wbkc_dkc \e_b" WdZ b[j h[ij \eh - je '& c_dkj[i$9kjX[jm[[dj^[h_XXed[ijei[hl["WdZifeed j^[`k_Y[iel[hj^[c[Wj$

''.

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

O_NV`RQ `U\_a _VO` dVaU `b[ Q _VRQ a\ZNa\R` 5)*4 *4 46 $$ 6-&/ 5 4 "5 *4' : */( comfort food for a winter evening. Most recipes suggest dredging short ribs with ﬂour before browning, which makes an awful mess. Instead, stir brown rice ﬂour into the softened onions. Creamy polenta or mashed potatoes are a must here.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)(+<$FWjj^[h_XiZhom_j^fWf[h jem[bi"WdZi[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$ >[Wjj^[eb_l[e_bel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj_dWbWh]["^[Wlo iWkjfWdkdj_b_ji^_cc[hi$7ZZ^Wb\j^[h_Xi"WdZiWkj kdj_bj^[oX[Yec[Wh_Y^"ZWhaXhemd"WXekj'(c_dkj[i$ JhWdi\[hjeW^[WloYWii[heb["fh[\[hWXbo[dWc[b[ZYWij _hed$H[f[Wjm_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]h_Xi$Fekhe\\ceije\j^[ \Wj_dj^[fWd"b[Wl_d]`kijWÄbc$7ZZj^[ed_ed"WdZYeea kdj_bie\j[d[Z"+c_dkj[i$Ifh_dab[m_j^j^[Y_ddWcedWdZ h_Y[Åekh"WdZij_hm[bb$7ZZj^[ehWd][`k_Y["iYhWf_d]kf Wbbj^[Xhemd[ZX_ji_dj^[fWd"j^[dWZZj^[ehWd][p[ij WdZXhej^$Fekhel[hj^[h_Xi$9el[hj^[YWii[heb["WdZ XWa[\eh(^ekhi$B[jYeebWdZh[\h_][hWj[el[hd_]^j$ B_\je\\Yed][Wb[Z\WjWdZZ_iYWhZ$7ZZj^[ikd#Zh_[Z jecWje[i" WdZ ^[Wj j^[ h_Xi ed jef e\ j^[ ijel[ el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ C[Wdm^_b[" Xh_d] 'À( Ykf mWj[h je W Xe_b _d W icWbb iWkY[fWd$ 7ZZ W f_dY^ e\ iWbj WdZ j^[ f[Wi"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj[dZ[h"(c_dkj[i$:hW_d$

QPVOETCFFGTIPSU SJCT DVUJOUPJODI DIVOLT 'JOFTFBTBMUBOE GSFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL QFQQFS UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM MBSHFPOJPO ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE UFBTQPPOHSPVOE DJOOBNPO UBCMFTQPPOTCSPXO SJDFºPVS DVQGSFTIMZTRVFF[FE PSBOHFKVJDF TUSJQTPSBOHF[FTU sJODI DVQTHMVUFOGSFFCFFG CSPUI TVOESJFEUPNBUPFT JOPJM ESBJOFE DVUJO IBMG DVQTGSP[FOQFUJUF QFBT UIBXFE UBCMFTQPPODPSOTUBSDI PQUJPOBM

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q

119

)PUDSFBNZQPMFOUBPS NBTIFEQPUBUPFT N

'(&

4FSWFTUP

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

:_l_Z[j^[h_XiWced]^[Wj[ZfbWj[i$JWij[j^[iWkY[ \ehi[Wied_d]$J^[h[i^ekbZX[WXekj+Ykfi$?\d[Y[iiWho" WZZWb_jjb[mWj[hehXe_b^WhZjeh[ZkY[_j$7bj[hdWj_l[bo" j^_Ya[dXoij_hh_d]_dj^[efj_edWbYehdijWhY^c_n[Zm_j^ 'jWXb[ifeedYebZmWj[h"WdZb[jj^[iWkY[XkXXb[kdj_b _j j^_Ya[di WdZ Yb[Whi" (& i[YedZi eh b[ii$ Ifeed j^[ iWkY[el[hj^[h_Xi"WdZ]Whd_i^m_j^j^[f[Wi$I[hl[m_j^ feb[djWehcWi^[ZfejWje[i$

O_NV`RQ \eaNVY dVaU Zb`U_\\Z`

" (3& "5 $)0*$& '03 casual entertaining, succulent oxtail doesn’t require carving or fussing over at the last minute, and doesn’t spoil if the meal has to wait. Cook it a day ahead, so you can remove the fat easily, and serve with mashed potatoes for absorbing the rich sauce.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&<$=h[Wi[WheWij_d]fWdm_j^ 'jWXb[ifeede\j^[eb_l[e_b"WdZWhhWd][j^[enjW_bf_[Y[i _d _j _d W i_d]b[ bWo[h" ib_]^jbo i[fWhWj[Z$ HeWij" jkhd_d] edY["kdj_bm[bbXhemd[Z"WXekj)&c_dkj[i$ >[Wjj^[h[cW_d_d](jWXb[ifeedieb_l[e_b_dWbWh][" ^[Wlofejel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj$7ZZj^[ed_ed"WdZiWkj kdj_b ie\j[d[Z Xkj dej Yebeh[Z" + c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ YWhhej" ]Whb_Y" ehWd][ p[ij" j^oc[" jecWje fWij[" WdZ m_d[$8h_d]jeWi_cc[h$Ki_d]jed]i"WZZj^[enjW_bje j^[fej$FbWY[j^[heWij_d]fWdel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj"WdZ Z[]bWp[m_j^j^[X[[\ijeYa"iYhWf_d]kfj^[Xhemd[Z X_jim_j^WmeeZ[difeed$7ZZjej^[fej"WdZi[Wied jejWij[m_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$9el[hWdZi_cc[h][djbo kdj_bj^[c[Wj_il[hoj[dZ[hWdZYec[iWmWo\hecj^[ Xed[i [Wi_bo" WZZ_d] ceh[ ijeYa Wi d[[Z[Z" )'À( je * ^ekhi$B[jYeeb"j^[dh[\h_][hWj[el[hd_]^j$ H[cel[j^[c[Wj\hecj^[h[\h_][hWjeh"b_\je\\j^[bWo[h e\Yed][Wb[Z\Wj"WdZZ_iYWhZ_j$H[^[Wjj^[enjW_b][djbo" Xh_d]_d] _j je W bem Xe_b$ Jho W f_[Y[ e\ c[Wj je cWa[

UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM QPVOETPYUBJM TMJDFE JODIFTUIJDL POJPO DIPQQFE DBSSPU EJDFE HBSMJDDMPWFT DIPQQFE ;FTUPGPSBOHF TMJWFSFE TQSJHTGSFTIUIZNF UBCMFTQPPOUPNBUP QBTUF DVQTSFEXJOF UPDVQTHMVUFOGSFF CFFGTUPDL 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS UBCMFTQPPOVOTBMUFE CVUUFS QPVOEXIJUF NVTISPPNT UIJDLMZ TMJDFE DMPWFTHBSMJD NJODFE UBCMFTQPPODPSOTUBSDI UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE QBSTMFZ N

4FSWFTUP

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q

121

ikh[ _j _i mWhc[Z j^hek]^$ 8b[dZ j^[ YehdijWhY^ m_j^ ( jWXb[ifeedi mWj[h" ij_h _dje j^[ c[Wj" WdZ Yedj_dk[ Yeea_d]kdj_bj^[iWkY[j^_Ya[diWdZYb[Whi"(&i[YedZi ehb[ii$ C[bjj^[Xkjj[hel[hc[Z_kc^[Wjkdj_b_j\eWci$7ZZ j^[cki^heeciWdZ]Whb_Y"WdZiWkjkdj_b]bWiio#beea_d] WdZYeea[Zj^hek]^"+c_dkj[i$I[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^iWbj WdZf[ff[h$ :_l_Z[ j^[ enjW_b WdZ iWkY[ Wced] ^[Wj[Z Z_dd[h fbWj[i" jef m_j^ j^[ cki^heeci" WdZ ifh_dab[ m_j^ fWhib[o$I[hl[m_j^cWi^[ZfejWje[i$

'((

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

[ba P _ b`aRQ `NYZ\[ dVaU Zb`aN_Q P_RNZ `NbPR $)011&% /6 5 4 3 "5 )&3 5 ) " / crisp bread crumbs offer ﬂavor as well as texture to baked salmon ﬁllets. Small specialty potatoes such as ﬁngerlings or Dutch Gold, boiled in their jackets, make a good accompaniment and are enhanced by the voluptuous sauce.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&<$ B_d[ W i^Wbbem XWa_d] fWd m_j^ Wbkc_dkc \e_b" WdZ bWo j^[ iWbced Äbb[ji ed _j" ia_d i_Z[ Zemd" Wj b[Wij ' _dY^ WfWhj$ 8b[dZ j^[ eb_l[ e_b WdZ ckijWhZ je][j^[h" WdZifh[WZed[#gkWhj[hedjefe\[WY^fehj_ed$Jefm_j^ j^[ Y^eff[Z f[YWdi$ 8Wa[ kdj_b `kij Yeea[Z j^hek]^" WXekj'&c_dkj[i$ M^_b[ j^[ iWbced XWa[i" cWa[ j^[ iWkY[0 M^_f j^[ Yh[Wckdj_b_jijWhjijeij_\\[d"j^[dm^_f_dj^[ckijWhZ$ Ij_h_dj^[YWf[hiWdZfWhib[o$I[WiedjejWij[m_j^iWbj WdZf[ff[h$ JhWdi\[h j^[ iWbced je ^[Wj[Z Z_dd[h fbWj[i$ =Whd_i^[WY^Äbb[jm_j^W X_]Zebbefe\j^[iWkY[$

TBMNPO¹MMFUT BCPVU PVODFTFBDI UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM UBCMFTQPPOT%JKPO NVTUBSE UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE QFDBOT mus t ard and caper s auce DVQIFBWZDSFBN UBCMFTQPPO%JKPO NVTUBSE UBCMFTQPPOESBJOFE DBQFST SJOTFE UBCMFTQPPOT¹OFMZ DIPQQFEQBSTMFZ 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS N

4FSWFT

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q

123

UNYVOba a\ZNa\ N[Q PN]R_ T_NaV[ dVaU ^bV[\N UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM QMVT FYUSBGPSCBLJOHEJTI DVQTPGUXIJUF3JDF 'MPVS#SFBE$SVNCT QBHF

IBMJCVUTUFBLT BCPVU PVODFTFBDI 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS UFBTQPPOGFOOFM TFFET DSVTIFE MBSHFDBO PVODFT EJDFEUPNBUPFT ESBJOFE KVJDFSFTFSWFE UBCMFTQPPOTESBJOFE DBQFST SJOTFE DVQTZFMMPXRVJOPB N

'(*

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5 )*4 2 6*$, -: . " %& 4611&3 dish uses any ﬁrm white ﬁsh ﬁllets such as cod, orange roughy, or snapper.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ =h[Wi[ Wd . s '&#_dY^ XWa_d]Z_i^m_j^eb_l[e_b$ >[Wjj^[eb_l[e_b_dWicWbbia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj"WZZj^[Xh[WZYhkcXi"WdZij_hkdj_bm[bbYeWj[Z")& i[YedZi$I[jWi_Z[$ 7hhWd][j^[Äi^_dj^[XWa_d]Z_i^"WdZi[Wiedm_j^ iWbj" f[ff[h" WdZ j^[ \[dd[b i[[Zi$ Jef m_j^ j^[ Z_Y[Z jecWje[i" YWf[hi" WdZ h[i[hl[Z Xh[WZ YhkcXi$ :h_ppb[ m_j^Wb_jjb[ceh[eb_l[e_b$8Wa[kdj_bj^[Äi^_iefWgk[ WdZÅWa[i[Wi_bo"(&c_dkj[i$ C[Wdm^_b["h_di[j^[gk_deW$9ecX_d[j^[h[i[hl[Z jecWje`k_Y[m_j^[dek]^mWj[hjecWa[)Ykfi$8h_d]je WXe_b"WdZij_h_dj^[gk_deWm_j^'À(j[WifeediWbj$9el[h" h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj[dZ[hWdZj^[ b_gk_Z[lWfehWj[i"'+c_dkj[i$I[hl[m_j^j^[Äi^$

UNYVOba V[ S\VY dVaU O_\d[ ON`ZNaV _VPR )&3&± 4 " '0 0-130 0' 8": to cook ﬁsh, and there’s no pan to wash afterward. Aromatic brown basmati rice complements the ﬂavors and textures of the halibut perfectly. The ﬁsh takes only 10 minutes to cook, so start the rice ﬁrst. The recipe can be doubled with ease, but don’t try baking more than four halibut packages at once in the average home oven. The temperature will drop too much under the onslaught and throw the timing off.

H_di[ j^[ h_Y[" WdZ ZhW_d$ 8h_d] ''À( Ykfi mWj[h je W Xe_b _d W icWbb iWkY[fWd" WdZ WZZ j^[ iWbj WdZ h_Y[$ 9el[h"h[ZkY[j^[^[Wjjebem"WdZi_cc[hkdj_bj^[h_Y[ _ij[dZ[h"WXekj)&c_dkj[i$[Wjj^[Xkjj[h_dWicWbbia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj" WZZ j^[ ib_Y[Z WbcedZi" WdZ Yeeakdj_b]ebZ[d"'je(c_dkj[i$Ij_h_djej^[h_Y[m^[d h[WZojei[hl[$ Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&<$>[WjWXWa_d]i^[[jWjj^[ iWc[j_c[$ M^_b[j^[h_Y[Yeeai"fh[fWh[j^[Äi^fWYaW][i0>[Wj j^[eb_l[e_b_dWicWbbia_bb[jel[hc[Z_kc^[WjWdZiWkj j^[ ed_ed kdj_b ie\j[d[Z" + c_dkj[i$ H[cel[ \hec j^[ ^[Wj"WdZWZZj^[ehWd][p[ijWdZi^[hho$

DVQCSPXOCBTNBUJ

SJDF UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU

UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS UBCMFTQPPOTTMJDFE BMNPOET UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM TNBMMPOJPO UIJOMZ TMJDFE UFBTQPPOTTMJWFSFE PSBOHF[FTU UBCMFTQPPOTNFEJVN ESZTIFSSZ IBMJCVUTUFBLT BCPVU PVODFTFBDI 4BMUBOEGSFTIMZHSPVOE XIJUFQFQQFS -BSHFQJODIPGOVUNFH GSFTIMZHSBUFE $IPQQFEQBSTMFZ

N

4FSWFT

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q

125

BWo jme '( s ',#_dY^ i^[[ji e\ Wbkc_dkc \e_b ed W mehaikh\WY[WdZifeeded[#gkWhj[he\j^[ed_edc_njkh[ ed[WY^i^[[j"WhhWd]_d]_je\\#Y[dj[h$FbWY[j^[^Wb_Xkj edjef"WdZi[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[hjejWij[$Ifh_dab[ m_j^j^[dkjc[]"WdZifh[WZm_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]ed_ed c_njkh[$ <ebZ j^[ \e_b el[h j^[ Äi^ b_a[ Ybei_d] W Xeea" j^[dYh_cfj^[ef[d[Z][ij_]^jboje][j^[hje\ehcjme ÅWj"h[YjWd]kbWhfWYaW][i$ FbWY[ j^[ ^Wb_Xkj fWYaW][i ed j^[ ^ej XWa_d] i^[[j" WdZXWa[\eh'&c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjeZ_dd[hfbWj[i"WdZ ib_jef[dWbed]j^[kdYh_cf[Zi_Z[$?\j^[Äbb[jiWh[[njhW j^_Ya WdZ j^[ Äi^ Ze[i dej ÅWa[ [Wi_bo" h[jkhd ef[d[Z fWYaW][ijej^[el[d\ehW\[mceh[c_dkj[i$FkbbWmWo j^[ \e_b" b[Wl_d] j^[ ^Wb_Xkj WdZ iWkY[ ed j^[ fbWj[i$ Ifeedj^[h_Y[Wbed]i_Z["WdZiYWjj[hfWhib[oedjef$

'(,

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

TN_YVP `U_VZ] dVaU `NSS _\[ _VPR

& 7&/ '30;&/ 4)3*.1 "3& delicious when cooked this way. Start cooking the rice while the shrimp marinate.

7hhWd][ j^[ i^h_cf _d W i^Wbbem XWa_d] Z_i^ bWh][ [dek]^je^ebZj^[c_ded[bWo[hehki[jmeZ_i^[i$ Jefm_j^*jWXb[ifeedie\j^[eb_l[e_b"j^[b[ced`k_Y[" ]Whb_Y" fWhib[o" jWhhW]ed" 'À( j[Wifeed e\ j^[ iWbj" WdZ W ][d[heki]h_dZ_d]e\f[ff[h$Jkhdj^[cWbbel[hjeYeWj m[bb"WdZb[jijWdZWjheecj[cf[hWjkh[\eh(&c_dkj[i$ C[Wdm^_b[" ^[Wj j^[ h[cW_d_d] ( jWXb[ifeedi eb_l[ e_b _d W icWbb iWkY[fWd el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj kdj_b _j i^_cc[hi$7ZZj^[ed_edWdZYeea"ij_hh_d]\h[gk[djbo" kdj_b_jie\j[diWdZjkhdijhWdibkY[dj"WXekj+c_dkj[i$ 7ZZ j^[ h_Y[" ij_hh_d] m[bb je YeWj j^[ ]hW_di$ 7ZZ j^[ iW\\hedc_njkh["()À*Ykfi^ejmWj[h"WdZj^[h[cW_d_d] )À* j[Wifeed iWbj" WdZ Xh_d] je W Xe_b$ 9el[h j^[ fWd" h[ZkY[ j^[ ^[Wj je bem" WdZ i_cc[h kdj_b j[dZ[h" '- c_dkj[i$ H[cel[ \hec j^[ ^[Wj" Åk\\m_j^W\eha"WdZfWhj_WbboYel[h j^[fWdkdj_bj^[i^h_cfWh[h[WZo$ Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *&&<$ 8Wa[j^[i^h_cfkdj_befWgk[WdZ Yeea[Zj^hek]^"'&c_dkj[i$I[hl[ m_j^j^[h_Y["ifeed_d]j^[ÅWleh\kb `k_Y[iedjef$

QPVOETTIFMMFEBOE EFWFJOFEMBSHFTISJNQ UIBXFEJGGSP[FO UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM UBCMFTQPPOMFNPO KVJDF HBSMJDDMPWFT NJODFE UBCMFTQPPOT¹OFMZ DIPQQFEQBSTMFZ UFBTQPPOESJFE UBSSBHPO DSVNCMFE UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU 'SFTIMZHSPVOECMBDL QFQQFS NFEJVNPOJPO ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE DVQTMPOHHSBJO XIJUFSJDF UFBTQPPOTBGGSPO UISFBET TUFFQFEJO UBCMFTQPPOIPUXBUFS N

4FSWFT

ZRNa N[Q `RNS\\Q

127

SVcR Z V[baR a_\ba dVaU P_V`]f PN]R_ `NbPR XIPMFCPOFEUSPVU UPPVODFTFBDI UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM 'JOFTFBTBMUBOEGSFTIMZ HSPVOECMBDLQFQQFS UBCMFTQPPOTTPGU XIJUF3JDF'MPVS#SFBE $SVNCT QBHF

UBCMFTQPPOTDBQFST SJOTFEBOEESBJOFE UBCMFTQPPOTMFNPO KVJDF UBCMFTQPPOTDIPQQFE QBSTMFZ

N

'(.

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

8 )&/ # 0/&% 530 6 5 " 3& spread out ﬂat and broiled, skin side up to protect the tender ﬂesh, they cook to a turn in just 5 minutes. As one whole butterﬂied trout covers an entire dinner plate, serve with homemade crusty rice ﬂour bread and have a salad or green vegetable as a separate course.

H[cel[j^[hWYae\j^[Xhe_b[hfWdWdZYel[h_jm_j^ Wbkc_dkc\e_b$ Fh[^[Wjj^[Xhe_b[h$ H_di[j^[jhekjWdZfWjZho$FbWY[edj^[\e_b#mhWff[Z Xhe_b[hhWYa"ifh[WZekjÅWjm_j^j^[Å[i^i_Z[kf$8hki^ m_j^'jWXb[ifeede\j^[eb_l[e_b"i[Wiedm_j^iWbjWdZ f[ff[h"WdZj^[djkhdj^[jhekjia_di_Z[kf$8he_bkdj_b Yeea[Zj^hek]^j^[ia_dm_bbXbWYa[dWdZXb_ij[h"Xkjm_bb a[[fj^[Äi^ce_ij"WXekj+c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hje^[Wj[Z Z_dd[hfbWj[i"fbWY_d]j^[cia_di_Z[Zemd$ C[Wdm^_b[" ^[Wj j^[ h[cW_d_d] ) jWXb[ifeedi eb_l[ e_b _d W icWbb ia_bb[j el[h c[Z_kc#bem ^[Wj$ 7ZZ j^[ Xh[WZYhkcXi"WdZiWkjkdj_b]ebZ[dXhemdWdZYh_ifo" (& i[YedZi$ H[cel[ \hec j^[ ^[Wj" ij_h _d j^[ YWf[hi WdZb[ced`k_Y["WdZi[Wiedb_]^jbom_j^iWbjWdZf[ff[h$ Ifeed ^Wb\ j^[ c_njkh[ el[h [WY^ jhekj$ IYWjj[h j^[ Y^eff[ZfWhib[oedjef$

Xh[WZi %& 7&-01*/( & " 4 : 3&$*1&4 '03 " 3 5 *4 " / 4 5 : - & -0"7 & 4 using gluten-free ﬂours was a challenge, but a rewarding one. Technically, the recipes that follow are all batter breads: the dough is mixed rather than kneaded, and all but one are raised with baking powder, not yeast. This means you can produce an aromatic, crusty loaf with a light, elastic crumb in about 30 minutes, even if you’ve never baked a loaf of bread in your life. Based on the hearth breads of old, most of these loaves are quite small and relatively low, because gluten-free ﬂours don’t form the weblike, airy structure that characterizes bread made with milled wheat and yeast. But what they lack in size they make up for in ﬂavor, texture, and nutrition. Xanthan gum, a white powder derived from corn syrup, helps to promote a springy texture and retain moisture. True, these preservative-free breads don’t keep (neither do baguettes from a French bakery), but they freeze well.

'(/

^bVPX O_\d[ _VPR SY\b_ SYNaO_RNQ

5 ) * 4 . & - - 0 8 5 " 4 5 * / ( 7 & 3 4 "5 * - & 8 ) 0 - & (3 " */ bread is perfect with cheese or with butter and jam for breakfast. Small, round, and crusty, like old-fashioned hearth breads, these loaves can be sliced across or split and quartered for sandwiches.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j m_j^ fWhY^c[dj fWf[h$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh WdZ WbcedZi_dW\eeZfheY[iieh"WdZ]h_dZjeWÄd[c[Wb$ 7ZZj^[jWf_eYWijWhY^"ÅWnc[Wb"Wd_i[i[[Zi"iWbj"XWa_d] femZ[h"XWa_d]ieZW"WdZnWdj^Wd]kc"WdZfheY[iije c_n$ 9ecX_d[j^[oe]khj"YWdebWe_b"[]]"WdZ'À(YkfmWj[h _dWXemb$7ZZj^[b_gk_Z_d]h[Z_[djijej^[Zho_d]h[Z_[dji Wbb Wj edY[" WdZ fheY[ii je \ehc W Åk\\o#beea_d]" ij_Yao XWjj[h"WXekj)&i[YedZi$IYeef_d]ekjj^[XWjj[hm_j^ WhkXX[hifWjkbW"\ehcjme[gkWbcekdZiedj^[XWa_d] i^[[j"+_dY^[iWfWhj$Ifh_dab[b_]^jbom_j^h_Y[Åekh"WdZ fWj[WY^ed[][djbo_djeW,#_dY^Z_ia$<ehcWhekdZ[Z [Z][ Xo Z_ff_d] oekh Äd][hi _d h_Y[ Åekh WdZ dkZ]_d] j^[i_Z[ie\j^[Zek]^$Ki_d]Wbed]ad_\[XbWZ["YkjW Z_W]edWb ]h_Z fWjj[hd ed jef e\ [WY^ ÅWjXh[WZ" cWa_d] j^h[[ 'À*#_dY^#Z[[f Ykji [WY^ mWo$ 8Wa[ kdj_b ]ebZ[d XhemdWdZYhkijo"WXekj(+c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hj^[beWl[i jeWm_h[hWYaWdZb[jYeeb$

DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

QMVTBEEJUJPOBMGPS GPSNJOHMPBWFT DVQBMNPOET DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI UBCMFTQPPOTºBYNFBM UFBTQPPOBOJTFTFFET UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML ZPHVSU UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM MBSHFFHH N

.BLFTGMBUCSFBET

O_RNQ`

131

-=N?DIAJP-=LAN3ANOQO4=T-=LAN

B_d_d] W XWa_d] i^[[j m_j^ fWhY^c[dj fWf[h ^[bfi je fh[l[dj el[hXhemd_d] ed j^[ kdZ[hi_Z[ e\ Xh[WZi WdZ Yeea_[i1XWa[Z_j[ciZed¼jij_Yaje_j"_j¼ih[kiWXb[m_j^_d h[Wied"WdZ_jiWl[iWbeje\mWi^_d]kf$FWhY^c[dj_i WlW_bWXb[ _d dWjkhWb \eeZi ijeh[i" a_jY^[dmWh[ i^efi" WdZiec[ikf[hcWha[ji$MWnfWf[h_idejWikXij_jkj[$ 8Wi_YWbbo j_iik[ fWf[h j^Wj¼i X[[d YeWj[Z m_j^ fWhW\Äd mWnedXej^i_Z[i"mWnfWf[hmWieh_]_dWbbo_dl[dj[Z\eh mhWff_d]\eeZij^_dae\iWdZm_Y^fWYa[ji_dj^[ZWoi X[\eh[fbWij_YXW]iWdZmWid[l[hc[Wdj\ehXWa_d]$J^[ mWnc[bji$

')(

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

^bVPX dUVaR _VPR SY\b_ SYNaO_RNQ

- *, & *5 4 8 )0-& ( 3 " */ 5 8 */ on page 131, this low, round loaf has a hundred uses, including pizza, melba toast, croutons, and—most important—bread crumbs. These are more valuable than gold in the wheat-free kitchen for breading, topping gratins, and making stufﬁngs. This loaf is very good sliced and toasted under a broiler (don’t share the family toaster if it’s ever used for wheat products). The biscotti-shaped slices are marvelous for dipping in soft-boiled eggs.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j m_j^ fWhY^c[dj fWf[h$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh WdZ WbcedZi_dW\eeZfheY[iieh"WdZ]h_dZjeWÄd[c[Wb$ 7ZZj^[jWf_eYWijWhY^"iWbj"XWa_d]femZ[h"XWa_d]ieZW" WdZnWdj^Wd]kc"WdZfheY[iijec_n$

DVQXIJUFSJDFºPVS

QMVTBEEJUJPOBMGPS GPSNJOHMPBWFT DVQCMBODIFE TMJWFSFEBMNPOET DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML ZPHVSU MBSHFFHH

N

.BLFTGMBUCSFBET

O_RNQ`

133

9ecX_d[j^[YWdebWe_b"oe]khj"[]]"WdZ'À(YkfmWj[h$ 7ZZ j^[ b_gk_Z _d]h[Z_[dji je j^[ Zho _d]h[Z_[dji Wbb Wj edY["WdZfheY[iije\ehcWÅk\\o#beea_d]"ij_YaoXWjj[h" WXekj(&i[YedZi$IYeef_d]ekjj^[XWjj[hm_j^WhkXX[h ifWjkbW"\ehcjme[gkWbcekdZiedj^[XWa_d]i^[[j"+ _dY^[iWfWhj$Ifh_dab[b_]^jbom_j^h_Y[Åekh"WdZfWj[WY^ ed[][djbo_djeW,#_dY^Z_ia$<ehcWhekdZ[Z[Z][Xo Z_ff_d]oekhÄd][hi_dh_Y[ÅekhWdZdkZ]_d]j^[i_Z[i e\j^[Zek]^$IbWi^j^[jefe\[WY^ÅWjXh[WZ\heci_Z[ je i_Z[" \ehc_d] W Yheii$ 8Wa[ kdj_b ]ebZ[d Xhemd WdZ Yhkijo" WXekj (+ c_dkj[i$ JhWdi\[h j^[ beWl[i je W m_h[ hWYaWdZb[jYeeb$ /E?A#HKQNNA=@ NQI>O

8Wa[j^[Xh[WZWiWXel["WdZb[Wl[Wjheecj[cf[hWjkh[ el[hd_]^j$9kje\\j^[YhkijiWdZh[i[hl[$:_Y[j^[ie\j _dj[h_eh" jhWdi\[h je W \eeZ fheY[iieh" WdZ fheY[ii je \ehcie\j"YeWhi[YhkcXi$FheY[iij^[Yhkijii[fWhWj[bo je cWa[ Äd[ Zho YhkcXi" m^_Y^ Wh[ _Z[Wb \eh Xh[WZ_d]$ Ijeh[Xej^jof[i"_dfbWij_YXW]i"_dj^[\h[[p[h$

')*

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

_VPR SY\b_ R[ T YV`U ZbSSV[`

* 4641&$ 5 5) "5 3&(6- " 3 English mufﬁns owe much of their popularity to the amount of butter melting on their toasted surfaces; on their own, they’re far from interesting. These glutenfree English mufﬁns, on the other hand, are worth nibbling even when unadorned. Suitably thick but light and airy (the batter is rich with eggs), they have the requisite ﬂoury outer surface and holey interior, take only 10 minutes to bake, and toast beautifully. To make them, you’ll need mufﬁn rings, or simply use recycled cat-food cans (the 61 ⁄2-ounce size) with the tops and bottoms removed. The recipe is easy to double.

8kjj[h j^[ _di_Z[i e\ Äl[ )'À(#_dY^ ck\Äd h_d]i" WdZ Zkij m_j^ h_Y[ Åekh$ :_ff_d] j^[c _d j^[ Åekh _i j^[ [Wi_[ijmWojeZej^_i$ 9ecX_d[j^[h_Y[Åekh"jWf_eYWijWhY^"ik]Wh"XWa_d] ieZW" WdZ iWbj$ ?d W i[fWhWj[ Xemb" X[Wj j^[ []]i" WdZ m^_ia_dj^[YWdebWe_bWdZoe]khj$ FbWY[ W dedij_Ya ]h_ZZb[ eh jme dedij_Ya ia_bb[ji el[hc[Z_kc#bem^[Wj"WdZi[jj^[ck\Ädh_d]i_dfbWY[$ Ifh_dab[ W b_jjb[ h_Y[ Åekh ed j^[ ]h_ZZb[ ikh\WY[ _di_Z[ [WY^ed[jefh[l[djj^[ck\Ädi\hecij_Ya_d]$

6OTBMUFECVUUFS DVQXIJUFSJDFºPVS QMVTFYUSBGPSNVG¹O SJOHTBOEHSJEEMF DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI UFBTQPPOTVHBS UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU MBSHFFHHT UBCMFTQPPODBOPMBPJM DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML ZPHVSU

N

.BLFTNVGGJOT

O_RNQ`

135

M^[dj^[]h_ZZb[_i^ej"WZZj^[b_gk_Z_d]h[Z_[djije j^[Åekhc_njkh["WdZij_hm[bbje\ehcWfk\\oXWjj[h$>Wb\# Äbb [WY^ ck\Äd h_d]" iceej^_d] j^[ ikh\WY[" WdZ Zkij b_]^jbo m_j^ WZZ_j_edWb h_Y[ Åekh$ 7\j[h ' c_dkj[" dkZ][ [WY^ ck\Äd h_d] m_j^ W ifWjkbW je cWa[ ikh[ _j _id¼j ij_Ya_d]" WdZ Yedj_dk[ Yeea_d] \eh Wdej^[h ) c_dkj[i$ >ebZ_d]jed]i_ded[^WdZWdZWifWjkbW_dj^[ej^[h" f_Yakf[WY^h_d]j^[ck\Ädmed¼j\WbbekjWdZfbWY[ed j^[ ifWjkbW$ H[l[hi[ j^[ ck\Ädi XWYa edje j^[ ]h_ZZb[ WdZYedj_dk[Yeea_d]kdj_bj^[i[YedZi_Z[_iXhemd[Z WdZ j^[ ck\Äd _i Yeea[Z j^hek]^" ) je * c_dkj[i$ JhWdi\[h je W hWYa$ M^[d j^[ h_d]i Wh[ Yeeb [dek]^ je ^WdZb["\h[[j^[ck\Ädim_j^Wad_\[XbWZ["WdZb[jYeeb Yecfb[j[bo$ Ifb_j d[l[h Ykj Xo _di[hj_d] j^[ j_d[i e\ W \eha ^eh_pedjWbbo WhekdZ [WY^ ck\Äd" WdZ fho WfWhj \eh efj_cWb YhW]]_d[ii1 j^[d jeWij kdZ[h W Xhe_b[h$ J^[ ck\Ädim_bba[[f\eh(ZWoimhWff[ZWdZh[\h_][hWj[Z"eh j^[ocWoX[\hep[d$

'),

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

T\Na PURR`R ]VggN dVaU _VPR SY\b_ P_ b`a 5)& 8 )*5 & 3*$& '-0 63 ﬂatbread on page 133 makes a good base for pizza. This goat cheese topping always wins approval, but of course you can use any pizza topping you like.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ Ki_d] W hkXX[h ifWjkbW" Z_l_Z[ j^[ ÅWjXh[WZ Zek]^ _dje jme [gkWb cekdZi ed j^[ XWa_d] i^[[j" + _dY^[i WfWhj$
JecWa[\eYWYY_W"fheY[[ZWiWXel["cWa_d]jme[gkWb cekdZi e\ Zek]^ ed j^[ XWa_d] i^[[j$
SFDJQF2VJDL8IJUF 3JDF'MPVS'MBUCSFBE QBHF

VOCBLFE UBCMFTQPPOTNBSJOBSB TBVDF GSPNBKBSPS DBO

PVODFTTPGUXIJUFHPBU DIFFTF PS3PNBUPNBUPFT TMJDFE UFBTQPPOESJFE PSFHBOP BODIPWZ¹MMFUTDBOOFE JOPMJWFPJM ESBJOFE BOEDPBSTFMZDIPQQFE DVQCMBDLPJMDVSFE PMJWFT IBMWFEBOE QJUUFE SFEPOJPO UIJOMZ TMJDFEBOETFQBSBUFE JOUPSJOHT N

.BLFTUXPJ ODIQJ[[BT

O_RNQ`

137

_VPR SY\b_ ONTbRaaR`

DVQXIJUFSJDFºPVS DVQCMBODIFE

BMNPOET XIPMF PSTMJWFSFE MJHIUMZ UPBTUFE DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOTCBLJOH QPXEFS DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML ZPHVSU MBSHFFHHXIJUFT $PBSTFTBMUDSZTUBMT

N

').

.BLFTCBHVFUUFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5)& 4& -0/( 5)*/ $3*41 $ 364 5&% baguettes have a light and chewy interior thanks to beaten egg whites in the dough. Unusually, no xanthan gum is needed. The unbaked dough is soft and needs support; to form these long loaves you will need a double baguette pan, which looks like an 18-inch-long drainpipe sliced in half vertically and stuck together to make a W. They can be found in most kitchenware shops. For super sandwiches, split the baguettes, spread with grainy Dijon mustard, and ﬁll with Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa (page 89) and mixed baby greens.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *&&<$ B_d[ W ZekXb[ XW]k[jj[ fWdm_j^Wi^[[je\fWhY^c[djfWf[h"Yh[Wi_d]j^[ekj[h [Z][ijecWa[_jb_[idk]boW]W_dijj^[Ykhl[Zi_Z[i$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh WdZ WbcedZi _d W \eeZ fhe# Y[iieh"WdZ]h_dZjeWÄd[c[Wb$JhWdi\[hjeWbWh][Xemb" WdZ WZZ j^[ jWf_eYW ijWhY^" iWbj" WdZ XWa_d] femZ[h$ 9ecX_d[j^[oe]khjm_j^'À*YkfmWj[h$?dWi[fWhWj[Xemb" X[Wjj^[[]]m^_j[ikdj_bij_\\f[Wai\ehc$ 7ZZj^[oe]khjWdZmWj[hjej^[Zho_d]h[Z_[dji"WdZ c_nm[bb$Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"ij_h_ded[#j^_hZe\j^[ []]m^_j[i"j^[d\ebZ_dj^[h[cW_dZ[h$:hefWZ`e_d_d] Zebbefi e\ Zek]^ _dje j^[ XW]k[jj[ fWd" jho_d] dej je

^_jj^[i_Z[ie\j^[fWd"\ehc_d]jme'(#je'*#_dY^#bed] beWl[i$Ifh_dab[b_]^jbom_j^YeWhi[iWbjYhoijWbi$8Wa[kdj_b ]ebZ[d Xhemd" WXekj (+ c_dkj[i" j^[d jkhd j^[ beWl[i el[h"WdZXWa[Wdej^[h+c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hj^[beWl[ije Wm_h[hWYa$I[hl[mWhc$8W]k[jj[icWoX[\hep[dWdZ h[^[Wj[Z$

O_RNQ`

139

_ b`aVP `RRQ O_RNQ

DVQCVDLXIFBUºPVS DVQºBYNFBM DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI

UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOTDBSBXBZ TFFET MBSHFFHHT DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML ZPHVSU UBCMFTQPPONPMBTTFT FHHXIJUF MJHIUMZ CFBUFO UFBTQPPOTTFTBNF TFFET N

'*&

.BLFTGMBUCSFBE

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

3&.*/*4$&/5 0' "/ " 3 5 *4 " / " - rye bread, but more mellow, this close-grained dark bread is marvelous with cream cheese and Medjool dates . . . or cream cheese and smoked salmon . . . or unsalted butter and preserves.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&<$B_d[WXWa_d]i^[[jm_j^ fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ XkYam^[Wj Åekh" ÅWnc[Wb" h_Y[ Åekh" jWf_eYW ijWhY^" nWdj^Wd ]kc" XWa_d] femZ[h" XWa_d] ieZW"iWbj"WdZYWhWmWoi[[Zi"WdZij_hm[bb$?dWi[fWhWj[ Xemb" X[Wj je][j^[h j^[ []]i" oe]khj" cebWii[i" WdZ 'À* Ykf mWj[h$ Fekh j^[ b_gk_Z _d]h[Z_[dji el[h j^[ Åekh c_njkh[" WdZ X[Wj m_j^ W meeZ[d ifeed kdj_b iceej^" (&i[YedZi$J^[Zek]^i^ekbZ`kij^ebZ_jii^Wf["Xkj _\_ji[[cijeeÄhc"WZZ'eh(jWXb[ifeediceh[mWj[h$

Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"iYeefekjj^[XWjj[h_djeWXWbbed j^[XWa_d]i^[[j$M_j^b_]^jboe_b[Z^WdZi"fWjl[ho][djbo ie oek Zed¼j fh[ii ekj j^[ W_h _dje W -#_dY^#Z_Wc[j[h i^WbbemZec[$8hki^m_j^j^[[]]m^_j[WdZifh_dab[j^[ i[iWc[i[[Zi[l[dboedjef$Fh[iij^[c_d][djbo$ Ki_d]Wbed]ad_\[XbWZ[WdZm_f_d]_jX[jm[[dYkji" ibWi^ W Z_W]edWb ]h_Z fWjj[hd ed jef e\ j^[ ÅWjXh[WZ" cWa_d]\ekhehÄl['À*#_dY^#Z[[fYkji[WY^mWo$8Wa[kdj_b XhemdWdZYhkijo")&c_dkj[i$B[jYeebedWm_h[hWYa$

O_RNQ`

141

SYNe`RRQ`
'*(

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

SYNeZRNY `XVY YRa O_RNQ

."%& -*,& 0 -% ' " 4)*0/&% $03/ bread in a preheated iron skillet, this whole-grain bread has a light, supple crumb. It bakes in just 12 minutes, and goes especially well with salads and cheese.

DVQºBYNFBM DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI UFBTQPPOCBLJOH

QPXEFS UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *+&<" WdZ ^[Wj W ^[Wlo" m[bb# i[Wied[Z.'À(#_dY^_hedia_bb[jehYhf[fWdWjj^[iWc[ j_c[$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ ÅWnc[Wb" h_Y[ Åekh" jWf_eYW ijWhY^" XWa_d]femZ[h"XWa_d]ieZW"nWdj^Wd]kc"WdZiWbj$?dW i[fWhWj[Xemb"m^_iaje][j^[hj^[Xkjj[hc_ba"[]]"WdZ' jWXb[ifeede\j^[YWdebWe_b$ Fhej[Yj_d] oekh ^WdZ m_j^ W c_jj" h[cel[ j^[ ^ej ia_bb[j\hecj^[el[d$7ZZj^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeede_b WdZim_hb_jWhekdZjeYeWjj^[Xejjece\j^[fWd$ Fekh j^[ b_gk_Z _d]h[Z_[dji _dje j^[ Zho _d]h[Z_[dji" c_nkdj_biceej^"WdZiYhWf[j^[XWjj[h_djej^[^ej"e_b[Z ia_bb[j$ JhWdi\[h je j^[ el[d WdZ XWa[ kdj_b Xhemd WdZ Yhkijo"'(c_dkj[i$
HVN UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU DVQCVUUFSNJMLPS DVQQMBJOXIPMF

NJMLZPHVSUQMVT DVQNJML

MBSHFFHH UBCMFTQPPOTDBOPMBPJM

N

.BLFTGMBUCSFBE

O_RNQ`

143

^bVPX SYNe`RRQ N[Q PUVPX]RN ONTbRaaR DVQºBYNFBM DVQDIJDLQFB

HBSCBO[P ºPVS DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI

UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN UBCMFTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOBOJTFTFFET UBCMFTQPPOFYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM UFBTQPPONPMBTTFT MBSHFFHH UFBTQPPOTFTBNF TFFET

N

'**

.BLFTCBHVFUUF

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

3&.*/*4$&/ 5 0 ' " / " 3 5 *4 " / . " % & rustic loaf, this torpedo-shaped whole-grain loaf has a crisp crust, a soft crumb, and layers of enticing ﬂavors. It toasts well, and makes excellent French toast.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ ?d W \eeZ fheY[iieh eh W bWh][ Xemb" YecX_d[ j^[ ÅWnc[Wb"Y^_Yaf[WÅekh"h_Y[Åekh"jWf_eYWijWhY^"nWdj^Wd ]kc"XWa_d]femZ[h"iWbj"WdZWd_i[i[[Zi$FheY[iikdj_b m[bbc_n[Z"'&i[YedZi"ehij_hm[bb$?dWi[fWhWj[Xemb" YecX_d[ j^[ eb_l[ e_b" cebWii[i" []]" WdZ ' Ykf mWj[h" WdZij_hjeXb[dZ$ 7ZZ j^[ b_gk_Z _d]h[Z_[dji je j^[ Zho _d]h[Z_[dji Wbb WjedY["WdZfheY[iibed][dek]^je\ehcWÄhc"ij_Yao XWjj[h" WXekj (& i[YedZi" eh X[Wj ^WhZ m_j^ W meeZ[d ifeed\eh(c_dkj[i$Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"iYeefekj j^[XWjj[h_dbWh][ZebbefiWdZZhefj^[c"jekY^_d][WY^ ej^[h"_dWZ_W]edWbb_d[WYheiij^[XWa_d]i^[[j$Ki_d] j^[ ifWjkbW" \ehc ][djbo _dje W '*#_dY^#bed] jehf[Ze i^Wf[ m_j^ ^kcfi$ :e j^_i Wi b_]^jbo Wi feii_Xb[ ie Wi dej je fh[ii W_h ekj e\ j^[ XWjj[h$ Ifh_dab[ m_j^ j^[ i[iWc[ i[[Zi$ 8Wa[ kdj_b Xhemd WdZ Yhkijo" WXekj (+ c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hj^[beW\jeWm_h[hWYaWdZb[jYeeb$I[[ _bbkijhWj_ededfW]['(/$

fRN`a _ NV`RQ P\_ [ZRNY SYNaO_RNQ 5)& 4& "30."5 *$ (0-%&/ -0"7& 4 are crusty on the outside and tender within. For a change of pace, you can replace the cornmeal with buckwheat, chickpea, teff, or millet ﬂour.

B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[jm_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ 9ecX_d['À(Ykfe\j^[h_Y[ÅekhWdZj^[o[Wijm_j^'À( YkfmWhc''&<mWj[h$B[jh[ijkdj_bZekXb[Z_dlebkc[" WXekj'&c_dkj[i$ ?dWbWh][Xemb"YecX_d[j^[h[cW_d_d]'À(Ykfh_Y[Åekh" j^[Yehdc[Wb"jWf_eYWijWhY^"nWdj^Wd]kc"WdZiWbj$?dW i[fWhWj[Xemb"X[Wjj^[[]]ib_]^jbom_j^'YkfmWhcmWj[h WdZj^[eb_l[e_b$Ij_h_djej^[Åekhc_njkh[$7ZZj^[o[Wij c_njkh["WdZX[Wjkdj_biceej^"WXekj'c_dkj[$ Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"cWa[jme[gkWbcekdZied j^[XWa_d]i^[[j"+_dY^[iWfWhj$
DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS QMVTFYUSBGPSEVTUJOH MPBWFT UFBTQPPOTHSBOVMBS ZFBTU DVQDPSONFBM DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI UFBTQPPOTYBOUIBO HVN UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU MBSHFFHHT BUSPPN UFNQFSBUVSF UBCMFTQPPOTFYUSB WJSHJOPMJWFPJM FHHZPML GPSHMB[F

N

.BLFTGMBUCSFBET

O_RNQ`

145

P\_ [ZRNY N[Q PURR`R `U\_ aO_RNQ

DVQVOTBMUFECVUUFS

TPGUFOFE MBSHFFHH DVQHSBUFE$IFEEBS "TJBHP PS3PNBOP DVQNBTBIBSJOB .FYJDBODPSOºPVS GPSNBLJOHUPSUJMMBT

QMVTFYUSBGPSSPMMJOH UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU UBCMFTQPPOTNJML

N

'*,

.BLFTTFSWFTUP

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

+64 5 3*() 5 '03 /*##-*/( with a glass of wine, this dappled gold disk falls somewhere between a soft, outsized Mexican tortilla and tender cheese pastry. Tear off chunks or, if this seems too casual, cut it into wedges. Serve plain or with salsa.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )-+<$ >Wl[ h[WZo W i^[[j e\ Wbkc_dkc\e_bWdZWYeea_[i^[[j$ 9h[Wc j^[ Xkjj[h" WdZ X[Wj _d j^[ []] WdZ Y^[[i[$ 8b[dZ je][j^[h j^[ cWiW" XWa_d] femZ[h" WdZ iWbj$ Ij_h _dje j^[ Y^[[i[ c_njkh[ b_jjb[ Xo b_jjb[" Wbj[hdWj_d] m_j^ ifh_dab[i e\ c_ba" je \ehc W ie\j Zek]^$ :kij j^[ \e_b b_]^jbo m_j^ cWiW" WdZ jkhd ekj j^[ Zek]^ edje _j$ =Wj^[h_j_djeWXWbb"WdZad[WZ\ehWc_dkj[ehjmekdj_b iceej^$ :kij m_j^ W b_jjb[ ceh[ cWiW" WdZ hebb _dje W '&#_dY^ Y_hYb[" WXekj 'À* _dY^ j^_Ya$ Ib_Z[ W Yeea_[ i^[[j kdZ[hj^[\e_b"WdZfbWY[_dj^[el[d$8Wa[\eh'&c_dkj[i kdj_bj^[fWdYWa[ijWhjijeXhemdWjj^[[Z][i$ C[Wdm^_b["fh[^[Wjj^[Xhe_b[h$FbWY[j^[Yeea_[i^[[j kdZ[hj^[^[Wj"WdZXhe_bkdj_bj^[jefikh\WY[_iZWffb[Z XhemdWdZ]ebZ"WXekj+c_dkj[i$I[hl[^ej$

P\_ [ZRNY N[Q

` b[ Q _VRQ a\ZNa\ Y\NS 5)*4 " 11& 5*;*/( 4 "703: -0" ' makes good use of the ﬂavorful olive oil from a jar of sun-dried tomatoes. If the tomatoes remaining in the jar are left high and dry, cover them with fresh olive oil.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )-+<$ =h[Wi[ Wd .'À( s *'À(#_dY^ beW\ fWd m_j^ W b_jjb[ eb_l[ e_b \hec j^[ `Wh e\ ikd#Zh_[Z jecWje[i$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ Yehdc[Wb" h_Y[ Åekh" YehdijWhY^" iWbj" eh[]Wde"XWa_d]femZ[h"XWa_d]ieZW"WdZnWdj^Wd]kc" WdZ c_n m[bb$ ?d W i[fWhWj[ Xemb" X[Wj j^[ []]i b_]^jbo" WdZWZZj^[jecWje#ÅWleh[Zeb_l[e_b"c_ba"oe]khj"WdZ 'À(Ykfe\j^[FWhc[iWd$7ZZj^[b_gk_Z_d]h[Z_[djijej^[ Åekh c_njkh[" WdZ X[Wj m_j^ W meeZ[d ifeed kdj_b iceej^"'c_dkj[$Ij_h_dj^[Y^eff[Zikd#Zh_[ZjecWje[i$ JhWdi\[hj^[XWjj[hjej^[beW\fWd"iceej^j^[jef"WdZ ifh_dab[m_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeedFWhc[iWd$8Wa[ kdj_b h_i[d WdZ Xhemd[Z" WdZ Wd _di[hj[Z jeej^f_Ya [c[h][iYb[Wd"WXekj *+c_dkj[i$Jkhdekj edje W m_h[ hWYa WdZ b[jYeebX[\eh[ib_Y_d]$

TVOESJFE3PNB UPNBUPFTJOPMJWFPJM ESBJOFEBOEDIPQQFE DVQDPSONFBM DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOESJFE PSFHBOP UFBTQPPOTCBLJOH QPXEFS UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN MBSHFFHHT UBCMFTQPPOTºBWPSFE PMJWFPJMGSPNKBSPG TVOESJFEUPNBUPFT DVQNJML DVQQMBJOXIPMFNJML ZPHVSU DVQQMVTUBCMFTQPPO GSFTIMZHSBUFE 1BSNJHJBOP3FHHJBOP N

.BLFTMPBG

O_RNQ`

147

Yeea_[i WdZXWhi */ " .&3*$ "± 4 .&-5*/( 1 05 0' $ 6-*/ "3: traditions, there are really two kinds of cookies: the satisfying cookie-with-a-glass-of-milk variety, and the smaller, more elegant kind that goes so well with a cup of tea or espresso, or provides a crunchy counterpoint to creamy desserts. Both types have their merits, both turn out exceptionally well when made with rice, teff, and nut ﬂours, and both are eminently gift-worthy.

'*/

]RN[ba ObaaR_²PU\P\YNaR PUV] P\\XVR` 40'5 %&-&$5"#-& "/% 0653"(&064-: rich, these confections cause cookie lovers to swoon. Use premium chocolate chips if possible. Ghirardelli make some with 60 percent cocoa butter, and they are worth seeking out for their silky smoothness.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ B_d[ jme bWh][ XWa_d] i^[[jim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$?\ki_d]edboed[XWa_d] i^[[j"YeebkdZ[hhkdd_d]mWj[hWdZZhoX[\eh[h[ki_d]" Wi_jckijX[YebZ$ Ki_d]WmeeZ[difeed"Yh[Wcj^[Xkjj[hkdj_biceej^$ 8[Wj _d j^[ f[Wdkj Xkjj[h" j^[d j^[ []]$ 7ZZ j^[ Xhemd ik]Wh"h_Y[Åekh"iWbj"WdZXWa_d]femZ[h"WdZij_hjeXb[dZ$ Ij_h _d j^[ Y^eYebWj[ Y^_fi WdZ Y^eff[Z dkji$ J^[ Zek]^ m_bb X[ ie\j WdZ ij_Yao$ :hef Xo j^[ hekdZ[Z jWXb[ifeededjej^[XWa_d]i^[[ji"(_dY^[iWfWhj"ki_d] Wi[YedZjWXb[ifeedjei^Wf[j^[Zek]^_djeWXWbbWdZ Z_ibeZ][_j$8Wa[kdj_b]ebZ[dWdZ`kiji[j"'(je'+c_dkj[i$ B[j ijWdZ ed j^[ XWa_d]i^[[ji\eh +c_dkj[iX[\eh[ jhWdi\[hh_d] je W m_h[ hWYa je Yeeb Yecfb[j[bo$

UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFE CVUUFS TPGUFOFE DVQDSFBNZQFBOVU CVUUFS MBSHFFHH DVQQBDLFEEBSL CSPXOTVHBS DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS DVQEBSL DIPDPMBUFDIJQT DVQDIPQQFEQFDBOT PSXBMOVUT N

.BLFTBCPVU

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_`

151

PU\P\YNaR²]V[R [ba ZR_V[TbR P\\XVR` MBSHFFHHXIJUFT DVQTVHBS 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB FYUSBDU DVQ PVODFT QJOF OVUT PVODFTUP EBSLDIPDPMBUF NFMUFEBOEDPPMFEUP MVLFXBSN

N

'+(

.BLFTBCPVU

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

*/ *5" -: $0 0,*& 4 -*, & these are known as brutti ma buoni (ugly but good). Quick and easy to make, they have crackly tops and chewy, rich interiors.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ 8[Wjj^[[]]m^_j[ikdj_bj^[oijWhjje^ebZj^[_hi^Wf[" j^[dX[Wj_dj^[ik]WhWb_jjb[WjWj_c[$9edj_dk[X[Wj_d] kdj_bj^[c[h_d]k[^ebZiij_\\"kdmWl[h_d]f[Wai"WXekj (c_dkj[i$8[Wj_dj^[iWbjWdZlWd_bbW$<ebZ_dj^[f_d[ dkji"WdZj^[dj^[Y^eYebWj[$?j¼iÄd[jeb[Wl[im_hbi$ :hefXoj[Wifeed\kbiedjej^[XWa_d]i^[[j"'_dY^WfWhj$ 8Wa[kdj_bfk\\[ZkfWdZYh_if"WXekj'&c_dkj[i$J^[ _dj[h_ehim_bbÄhckfib_]^jboWij^[oYeeb$JhWdi\[hjeW m_h[hWYa$

]RPN[ R `]_R``\ P\\XVR`

5)& 4& #6 5 5 &3: $ 0''&& ' - "703&% 4)03 5#3& " % cookies are rolled in chopped pecans before baking for additional crunch.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )&&<$ B_d[ jme bWh][ XWa_d] i^[[jim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$?\ki_d]edboed[XWa_d] i^[[j"YeebkdZ[hhkdd_d]mWj[hWdZZhoX[\eh[h[ki_d]" Wi_jckijX[YebZ$ 9ecX_d[j^[Xhemdik]WhWdZXkjj[h_dW\eeZfhe# Y[iieh$FheY[iijeWiceej^"Åk\\oYh[Wc"WZZj^[[]] oeba"WdZfheY[iijec_n$7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh"YehdijWhY^" iWbj"WdZ_dijWdjYe\\[["WdZfheY[iiXh_[Åoje\ehcWXWbb e\ie\jZek]^$ Ifh[WZ j^[ Y^eff[Z f[YWdi ed W meha ikh\WY[$ :_ff_d] oekh Äd][hi _d h_Y[ Åekh" \ehc j^[ Zek]^ _dje '#_dY^XWbbi"WdZhebb_dj^[Y^eff[Zdkji$
DVQQBDLFEEBSL

CSPXOTVHBS UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDLT VOTBMUFECVUUFS DVUVQ MBSHFFHHZPML DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS QMVTBEEJUJPOBMGPS SPMMJOHDPPLJFT DVQDPSOTUBSDI 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOTJOTUBOU DPGGFF QSFGFSBCMZ FTQSFTTP DVQ PVODFT QFDBOT ¹OFMZDIPQQFE N

.BLFTBCPVU

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_`

153

UNgRY[ba gRO_N P\\XVR`

DVQ PVODFT IB[FMOVUT DVQTVHBS DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS DPME DVUVQ MBSHFFHHZPML UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB FYUSBDU PVODFTEBSL DIPDPMBUF NFMUFE

N

'+*

.BLFTBCPVU

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5)&4& -*()5 " 6453*"/4 5:-& $00,*&4 rise even though they contain no baking powder because tiny granules of cold butter melt as the cookies bake and make little air spaces.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)(+<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ ?dj^[Xembe\W\eeZfheY[iieh"YecX_d[j^[^Wp[bdkji WdZik]Wh$FheY[iikdj_bÄd[bo]hekdZ$7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh" YehdijWhY^" iWbj" WdZ Xkjj[h$ FheY[ii kdj_b j^[ c_njkh[ ijWhjijeYbkcfje][j^[h"WXekj)&i[YedZi"j^[dWZZj^[ []]oebaWdZlWd_bbW"WdZfheY[iikdj_bj^[Zek]^\ehciW hek]^XWbb"iYhWf_d]Zemdj^[Xemb_\d[Y[iiWho$ F_dY^e\\icWbbf_[Y[ie\Zek]^"WdZ\ehc_dje'#_dY^ XWbbi$
UNgRY[ba _ N`]OR__ f P\\XVR`

5)& & " 4*& 4 5 " /% 2 6*$,& 4 5 way to get the jam ﬁlling into these miniature jam tartlets is to use a disposable cone-shaped pastry bag or, failing that, a plastic bag with a small piece snipped off one corner.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)-+<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j m_j^XWa_d]fWhY^c[dj$ I[fWhWj[j^[[]]"h[i[hl_d]j^[oeba$FbWY[j^[m^_j[ _dWi^WbbemXemb"WdZX[Wjb_]^jbo$ 9h[Wc j^[ Xkjj[h WdZ Xhemd ik]Wh kdj_b Åk\\o" j^[d X[Wj _d j^[ lWd_bbW WdZ []] oeba$ 7ZZ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh" YehdijWhY^"WdZiWbj"WdZXb[dZj^ehek]^bo$ F_dY^ e\\ f_[Y[i e\ Zek]^ WdZ hebb _dje '#_dY^ XWbbi$ :_f [WY^ XWbb _dje j^[ []] m^_j[" WdZ j^[d hebb _d j^[ Y^eff[Z^Wp[bdkji$FbWY[edj^[fh[fWh[ZXWa_d]i^[[j$ M_j^j^[[dZe\WmeeZ[difeed"cWa[Wd_dZ[djWj_ed _dj^[Y[dj[he\[WY^XWbb$<_bb[WY^j^h[[#gkWhj[hi\kbbm_j^ `Wc1 i[j j^[ XW] m_j^ j^[ `Wc Wi_Z[$ 8Wa[ j^[ Yeea_[i kdj_bb_]^jboXhemd[Z"'(je'+c_dkj[i$H[Äbb[WY^Yeea_[ m_j^ `Wc j^[ Äbb_d] m_bb ^Wl[ ¹i^hkdaº ib_]^jbo Zkh_d] XWa_d]"j^[djhWdi\[hjeWXWa_d]hWYaWdZb[jYeeb$

MBSHFFHH UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS TPGUFOFE DVQ¹SNMZQBDLFE EBSLCSPXOTVHBS UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB FYUSBDU DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU DVQ PVODFT IB[FMOVUT ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE DVQSBTQCFSSZKBN

N

.BLFTBCPVU

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_`

155

NYZ\[Q WNZ `N[QdVPU P\\XVR` DVQ PVODFT CMBODIFE TMJWFSFE BMNPOET DVQDPSOTUBSDI UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS TPGUFOFE DVQTVHBS MBSHFFHHZPML UFBTQPPOBMNPOE FYUSBDU DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU DVQCFSSZPSBQSJDPU KBN PSDVQPGFBDI $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS N

'+,

.BLFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

" 1&3&//*" - '"703*5& 5)*4 version is more delicate than the usual jam-ﬁlled cookie. Be sure to choose jam without large chunks of fruit in it (raspberry and sieved apricot are good) or the top cookies may break when you press them down. Naturally, you can also make ﬂat cookies with this dough, in which case roll it 1 ⁄4 inch thick, and bake the cookies for about 12 minutes.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *&&<$ B_d[ jme bWh][ XWa_d] i^[[jim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$?\ki_d]edboed[XWa_d] i^[[j"YeebkdZ[hhkdd_d]mWj[hWdZZhoX[\eh[h[ki_d]" Wi_jckijX[YebZ$ 9ecX_d[j^[WbcedZiWdZYehdijWhY^_dW\eeZfhe# Y[iieh"WdZ]h_dZjeWÄd[c[Wb$I[jWi_Z[$7ZZj^[Xkjj[h WdZik]Whjej^[fheY[iieh"WdZXb[dZkdj_bYh[Wco$7ZZ j^[[]]oebaWdZWbcedZ[njhWYj"WdZXb[dZkdj_biceej^$ 7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh"iWbj"WdZj^[WbcedZc_njkh["WdZfhe# Y[iiXh_[Åokdj_bWhek]^XWbbe\Zek]^\ehci$ Jkhdj^[Zek]^ekjedjeWi^[[je\fbWij_YmhWf$Fh[ii je][j^[h _dje W Z_ia" Ykj _d ^Wb\" WdZi[jed[#^Wb\Wi_Z[$9el[hj^[ h[cW_d_d] ^Wb\ m_j^ W i[YedZ i^[[je\fbWij_YmhWf"WdZhebbekj 'À. _dY^ j^_Ya$ 9kj ekj Wi cWdo ('À(#_dY^ hekdZi Wi feii_Xb["

h[hebb_d]j^[jh_cc_d]i\ehceh[Yeea_[i$JhWdi\[hjeed[ e\j^[XWa_d]i^[[ji$H[f[Wjm_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]Zek]^" WdZYkjW'À(#_dY^Y_hYb[\hecj^[Y[dj[he\[WY^ed[W\j[h jhWdi\[hh_d] j^[ Yeea_[i je j^[ i[YedZ XWa_d] i^[[j$ H[hebbj^[jh_cc_d]i"cWa_d]Wd[gkWbdkcX[he\m^eb[ WdZh_d]Yeea_[i$8Wa[kdj_b`kijijWhj_d]jeXhemdWjj^[ [Z][i"'&c_dkj[i$JhWdi\[hjem_h[hWYaiWdZb[jYeeb$ 9[dj[h W ][d[heki j[Wifeed e\ `Wc ed [WY^ ieb_Z Yeea_[" ifh[WZ_d] _j ekj W b_jjb[$ Jef m_j^ j^[ h_d]i" fh[ii_d] Zemd l[ho b_]^jbo$ :kij m_j^ Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ ik]Wh$

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_`

157

aRSS O_\d[VR`

UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDLT VOTBMUFE CVUUFS DVUVQ PVODFTUP EBSLDIPDPMBUF DIPQQFE PVODFVOTXFFUFOFE DIPDPMBUF DIPQQFE MBSHFFHHT DVQTVHBS UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB FYUSBDU DVQEBSLUFGGºPVS UFBTQPPOTBMU DVQ PVODFT XBMOVUT DIPQQFE $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS N

'+.

.BLFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

*' 5 )&3& 8 &3& /0 other reason for buying teff ﬂour, these spectacular, trufﬂelike brownies would be cause enough.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$B_d[Wd.#_dY^igkWh[YWa[ fWdm_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ 9ecX_d[j^[Xkjj[h"ZWhaY^eYebWj["WdZkdim[[j[d[Z Y^eYebWj[_dj^[jefe\WZekXb[Xe_b[h$C[bjel[hXWh[bo i_cc[h_d] mWj[h" WdZ b[j Yeeb je bka[mWhc$ 8[Wj j^[ []]i" ik]Wh" WdZ lWd_bbW kdj_b m[bb YecX_d[Z$ 8[Wj _d j^[Y^eYebWj[c_njkh["j^[dj^[j[\\ÅekhWdZiWbj$Ij_h _dj^[mWbdkji$ JhWdi\[hj^[XWjj[hjej^[fh[fWh[ZfWd"WdZiceej^ j^[ jef$ 8Wa[ kdj_b j^[ jef _i i[j WdZ fWb[ Xhemd Xkj j^[_dj[h_eh_iij_bbce_ij"WXekj)+c_dkj[i$7d_di[hj[Z jeej^f_Yai^ekbZ[c[h][ib_]^jboij_Yao$J^[Xhemd_[im_bb Yedj_dk[jeYeea\ehW\[mc_dkj[iWij^[oYeeb$B[jYeeb Yecfb[j[bo _d j^[ fWd$ KdcebZ" WdZ jh_c e\\ j^[ Yh_if [Z][i d_XXb_d] ed j^[i[ X_ji _i j^[ Yeea¼i fh_l_b[][" iej^Wjm^[dYkj"[l[hoXhemd_[m_bbX[\kZ]o$:kijm_j^ Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]Wh$9kj_dje',igkWh[i$

aRSS' aUR Y\`a T_NV[ \S RaUV\]VN J^[WdY_[djDehj^7\h_YWdbWdZe\;j^_ef_Wb_[iX[bem;]ofj$H_d][ZXocekdjW_di"j^[^_]^Y[djhWb fbWj[Wk_iX[jm[[di[l[dWdZj[dj^ekiWdZ\[[jWXel[i[Wb[l[b$>Wff_bo"j^[fh_dY_fWbY[h[WbYhef _iW^WhZofbWdjj^WjcWdW][ijej^h_l[Wjj^_iWbj_jkZ[$J[\\^Wii[[ZiieicWbbj^Wjj^[dWc[c[Wdi ¹beij"ºXkjj^[h[Wh[bejie\i[[Zif[hfbWdj$M^[d]hekdZ"j^[ocWa[W^_]^#fhej[_dÅekhj^Wj¼i ki[Z\ehj^[dWj_edWbXh[WZ"_d`[hW$JecWa[_j";j^_ef_Wdmec[dc_nj[\\Åekhm_j^mWj[hWdZWbbem j^[XWjj[hje\[hc[dj\ehkfjej^h[[ZWoim^[d_j_ifekh[ZedjeW^k][]h_ZZb[WdZYeea[Zeded[ i_Z[edbo"j^[h[ikbj_iWj^_d")&#_dY^fWdYWa[bWY[Zm_j^Wc_bb_edj_do^eb[i$9eeaiZhWf[i[l[hWb e\j^[i[ce_ij"Y^[mo"iekhYhf[iel[hWi^WbbemXWia[jieZ_d[hiYWdj[Whe\\f_[Y[iWdZki[j^[c WiiYeefi\ehj^[if_Yoij[mie\j^[h[]_ed$:ed¼j[nf[YjjhWZ_j_edWb_d`[hWWj;j^_ef_Wdh[ijWkhWdji _dDehj^7c[h_YW1ceije\j^[cki[7kdj@[c_cWfWdYWa[c_n$ 7bj^ek]^j[\\_i_dZ_][dekije;j^_ef_W"\Whc[hi_dej^[hfWhjie\j^[mehbZ]hem_jWiWY[h[Wb Yhef$J^[i[[Z^[WZiWh[iej_do¸icWbb[hj^Wdf_d^[WZi¸j^Wjj[\\_iiebZYecfb[j[m_j^][hc WdZXhWd"m^[j^[hb[\jm^eb[eh]hekdZ_djeÅekh$J[\\]hemd_dj^[Kd_j[ZIjWj[ii^emifhej[_d b[l[bie\WickY^Wi'+f[hY[dj^_]^[hj^Wdd[WhboWbbej^[hY[h[Wbi"_dYbkZ_d]m^[WjWdZ^Wi j^[^_]^[ijYWbY_kcYedj[dje\Wdo]hW_d$>_]^_dÄX[h"j^[fhej[_d_jYedjW_di_iWfbWdjl[hi_ed e\WbXkc_d"j^[fhej[_d\ekdZ_d[]]m^_j[$?jYec[i_djmedkjh_j_edWbbo_Z[dj_YWblWh_[j_[i"b_]^j WdZZWha$?lehoj[\\Åekh^WiWc[bbem"dkjjoÅWleh1j^[Xhemda_dZZe[ijee"Xkj^WiWjjhWYj_l[" kd[nf[Yj[ZY^eYebWj[el[hjed[i$ J[\\_iiebZ_ddWjkhWb\eeZiijeh[iWdZXocW_behZ[h$OekYWdWbieXko_jZ_h[Yj\hecMWod[WdZ ;b_iWX[j^9Whbiede\j^[J[\\9ecfWdoi[[fW][('("m^eYkbj_lWj[j[\\_diekj^m[ij[hd?ZW^e$ MWod[meha[ZWiWX_ebe]_ij_d;j^_ef_W\ehiec[o[Whi"^[dY[^_i_dj[h[ij_dj^_iWcWp_d]]hW_d$J^[ Yhefj^h_l[i_dlebYWd_Yie_bedj^[?ZW^e#Eh[]edXehZ[h"m^_Y^_imWj[h[ZXoc[bj[Z#idemhkde\\" WdZj^[9Whbiedi^Wl[fhe]h[ii[Z\hec]hem_d]W\[mhemie\j[\\_dj^[_hXWYaoWhZje^Whl[ij_d]" j^h[i^_d]"c_bb_d]"WdZfWYaW]_d]jedie\j[\\i[[ZWddkWbbo$Dej\eh][jj_d]_jibWdZe\eh_]_d"j^[o h[jkhdWfehj_ede\j^[ikf[h]hW_dij^[o^Wl[Z[l[bef[Zje;j^_ef_W\ehW]h_YkbjkhWbjh_Wbi[WY^o[Wh$ J^[oWbieZedWj[i[[ZjeWh[b_[\W][dYo\ehfbWdj_d]_d;j^_ef_W$

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_`

159

aRSS²]RN[ba ObaaR_ SbQTR P\\XVR` DVQEBSLPSMJHIUUFGG

ºPVS DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS

QMVTBEEJUJPOBMGPS GPSNJOHDPPLJFT UBCMFTQPPOTTVHBS UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO HVN UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS DPME DVUJOUPTNBMMDVCFT UBCMFTQPPOTDBOPMBPJM DVQTNPPUIPSDIVOLZ QFBOVUCVUUFS MBSHFFHH UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB FYUSBDU N

',&

.BLFTBCPVU

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

3&.*/*4$&/50'4-*()5-:(3 "/6- "3 old-fashioned fudge, these satisfying, soft cookies are quickly mixed in a food processor.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ B_d[ jme bWh][ XWa_d] i^[[jim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$?\ki_d]edboed[XWa_d] i^[[j"YeebkdZ[hhkdd_d]mWj[hWdZZhoX[\eh[h[ki_d]" Wi_jckijX[YebZ$ 9ecX_d[j^[j[\\Åekh"h_Y[Åekh"ik]Wh"iWbj"nWdj^Wd ]kc" WdZ Xkjj[h _d W \eeZ fheY[iieh$ FheY[ii Xh_[Åo je \ehc W Äd[ c[Wb$ 7ZZ j^[ YWdebW e_b" f[Wdkj Xkjj[h" []]"WdZlWd_bbW"WdZfkbi[edWdZe\\kdj_bWie\jZek]^ \ehci$F_dY^e\\f_[Y[ij^[i_p[e\WmWbdkj"Yecfh[ii ib_]^jbo"WdZhebb_djeXWbbi$
aRSS TV[TR_O_RNQ dVaU QNaR` 5)& '- "703 " /% 5& 9 5 63& of this dense and sticky gingerbread is irresistible. Adding dates is probably gilding the lily, but they make a good thing even better.

>[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ B_d[ Wd .#_dY^ igkWh[ YWa[ fWdm_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ 9ecX_d[ )À* Ykf e\ j^[ j[\\ Åekh m_j^ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh" YehdijWhY^" XWa_d] ieZW" XWa_d] femZ[h" iWbj" nWdj^Wd ]kc"Ybel[i"Y_ddWced"WdZ]_d][h"WdZi[jWi_Z[$ ?d W i[fWhWj[ Xemb" X[Wj j^[ Xkjj[h WdZ ik]Wh kdj_b b_]^jWdZÅk\\o"j^[dX[Wj_dj^[[]]$7ZZj^[cebWii[i WdZ 'À( Ykf ^ej mWj[h" WdZ X[Wj kdj_b iceej^" WXekj )& i[YedZi$ 8[Wj _d j^[ Åekh c_njkh[$ Jeii j^[ ZWj[i m_j^ j^[h[cW_d_d]j[Wifeedj[\\Åekh"jefh[l[djj^[c\hec ij_Ya_d] je][j^[h" WdZ ij_h _d$ Fekh j^[ XWjj[h _dje j^[ fh[fWh[ZfWd$8Wa[kdj_bÄhcWdZWd_di[hj[Zjeej^f_Ya Yec[iekjYb[Wd"WXekj)&c_dkj[i$B[jYeebYecfb[j[bo _d j^[ fWd X[\eh[ jkhd_d] ekj$ :kij m_j^ Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ ik]Wh$9kj_d^Wb\"WdZj^[dYkj[WY^^Wb\_dje*eh+XWhi$

DVQQMVTUFBTQPPO

EBSLUFGGºPVS DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI

UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO HVN UFBTQPPOHSPVOE DMPWFT UFBTQPPOHSPVOE DJOOBNPO UFBTQPPOTHSPVOE HJOHFS TUJDL PVODFT VOTBMUFECVUUFS TPGUFOFE DVQTVHBS MBSHFFHH DVQEBSLNPMBTTFT .FEKPPMEBUFT QJUUFE BOEDIPQQFE $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS N

4FSWFTUP

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_`

161

_VPR SY\b_ TV[TR_O_RNQ P\d` DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS QMVTFYUSBGPSSPMMJOH DPPLJFT DVQDPSOTUBSDI UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO HVN UFBTQPPOCBLJOHTPEB UFBTQPPOHSPVOE HJOHFS UFBTQPPOHSPVOE DJOOBNPO UFBTQPPOHSPVOE DMPWFT DVQEBSLNPMBTTFT DVQTVHBS UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS N

. BLFT BQQSPYJNBUFMZ CZ JODIFTFBDI

',(

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

* -*7& */ /03 5 )&3/ California, so I make gingerbread cows every holiday season instead of snowmen, and hang some of them on the Christmas tree. (One memorable year, a friend’s basset hound thought this was a super idea, so now I place them higher up.) These crisp, German-style cookies can be left plain or decorated with frosting, and of course you can use any kind of cookie cutter you like. If you want to utilize your gingerbread cookies as tree decorations, make a hole in each one with a skewer before baking, and thread with ribbon after they cool.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ B_d[ jme bWh][ XWa_d] i^[[jim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$?\ki_d]edboed[XWa_d] i^[[j"YeebkdZ[hhkdd_d]mWj[hWdZZhoX[\eh[h[ki_d]" Wi_jckijX[YebZ$ C_n j^[ h_Y[ Åekh WdZ YehdijWhY^m_j^j^[iWbj"nWdj^Wd ]kc" XWa_d] ieZW" ]_d][h" Y_ddWced"WdZYbel[i$ >[Wj j^[ cebWii[i je j^[ Xe_b_d] fe_dj _d W c[Z_kc iWkY[fWd el[h c[Z_kc ^[Wj" WdZij_h_dj^[ik]WhWdZXkjj[h$ H[cel[ \hec j^[ ^[Wj$ Ij_h _d

j^[Åekhc_njkh[ed[#j^_hZWjWj_c["Wbed]m_j^'je( jWXb[ifeedimWj[h"_\d[[Z[Z"jecWa[WmehaWXb[Zek]^$ JkhdekjedjeWb_]^jboh_Y[#Åekh[Zikh\WY[WdZad[WZW \[mj_c[ikdj_bi_baoiceej^$9kjj^[XWbbe\Zek]^_d^Wb\ WdZmeham_j^ed[i[Yj_edWjWj_c[$ :kij_d] j^[ Zek]^ b_]^jbo m_j^ h_Y[ Åekh" hebb ekj 'À* _dY^ j^_Ya$ Ki_d] W h_Y[#Åekh[Z Yeea_[ Ykjj[h" Ykj ekj Wi cWdo ]_d][hXh[WZ Ä]kh[i Wi feii_Xb[" h[hebb_d] j^[ jh_cc_d]i je cWa[ ceh[$ ?j¼i [Wi_[ij je b_\j WmWo j^[ [nY[iiZek]^\hecWhekdZj^[Yeea_[i"WdZj^[djhWdi\[h j^[cjej^[XWa_d]i^[[jedWc[jWbifWjkbW$8Wa[kdj_b j^[ Yeea_[i fk\\ kf ib_]^jbo WdZ b_]^j[d je W jWd Yebeh" ,je-c_dkj[i$B[jYeebedj^[XWa_d]i^[[j\eh+c_dkj[i" j^[d fbWY[ ed W m_h[ hWYa$ H[f[Wj m_j^ j^[ h[cW_d_d] Zek]^$ ?\ Z[YehWj_d] m_j^ \heij_d]" b[j j^[ Yeea_[i Yeeb Yecfb[j[boÄhij$

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_`

163

_VPR SY\b_ cN[VY YN dNSR_`

UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFE CVUUFS TPGUFOFE DVQTVHBS MBSHFFHH UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB FYUSBDU DVQDPSOTUBSDI DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO HVN

N

',*

.BLFTBCPVU

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

4&37 & 5 )& 4& $3*41 : .*/*"5 63& wafers with any creamy dessert, including French Chocolate Mousse (page 206), or Quick Mango Sorbet (page 207). You can also sandwich them together with melted dark chocolate, and enjoy with a cup of coffee.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )-+<$ B_d[ W XWa_d] i^[[j m_j^ fWhY^c[djfWf[h"WdZÄjWfWijhoXW]m_j^W)À.#_dY^fbW_d hekdZc[jWbj_f$ 9h[Wc j^[ Xkjj[h WdZ ik]Wh je][j^[h kdj_b iceej^" j^[dX[Wj_dj^[[]]WdZlWd_bbW$I_\jj^[YehdijWhY^"h_Y[ Åekh"iWbj"WdZnWdj^Wd]kcel[hj^[Xemb"WdZ\ebZ_d$ JhWdi\[h je j^[ fWijho XW]" WdZ f_f[ ekj '#_dY^ XbeXi" ' _dY^ WfWhj" ed j^[ XWa_d] i^[[j$
]V[R [ba dNSR_`

#" 4&% 0/ " 1 016 - " 3 Italian cookie, these airy, delicate wafers go perfectly with espresso or ice cream. Pine nuts (pignoli) can be found in natural foods stores and Italian groceries.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ B_d[ jme bWh][ XWa_d] i^[[jim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$?\ki_d]edboed[XWa_d] i^[[j"YeebkdZ[hhkdd_d]mWj[hWdZZhoX[\eh[h[ki_d]" Wi_jckijX[YebZ$ 8[Wjj^[[]]ikdj_bm[bbYecX_d[Z"(&i[YedZi"j^[d ]hWZkWbboWZZj^[ik]Wh$9edj_dk[X[Wj_d]jej^[h_XXed ijW]["WXekj-c_dkj[i$FbWY[WÄd[i_[l[el[hj^[Xemb" WdZ WZZ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh WdZ YehdijWhY^$ I^Wa[ el[h j^[ c_njkh["WdZ\ebZ_d$7ZZj^[b[cedp[ij"WdZ\ebZ_d$ Meha_d] m_j^ ^Wb\ j^[ XWjj[h Wj W j_c[" Zhef Xo j[Wifeed\kbiedjeWXWa_d]i^[[j"b[Wl_d]'_dY^ifWY[i X[jm[[d j^[c$ Jef [WY^ Yeea_[ m_j^ * eh + f_d[ dkji$ 8Wa[kdj_bfWb[]ebZ"'(je'+c_dkj[i$Fh[fWh[j^[i[YedZ XWjY^m^_b[j^[ÄhijXWjY^XWa[i$B[Wl[j^[Yeea_[ied j^[XWa_d]i^[[ji\eh+c_dkj[iX[\eh[jhWdi\[hh_d]j^[c jeWm_h[hWYajeYeebYecfb[j[bo$

MBSHFFHHT DVQTVHBS DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI (SBUFE[FTUPGTNBMM MFNPO UPUBCMFTQPPOTQJOF OVUT

N

.BLFTBCPVU

P\\XVR` N[Q ON_`

165

jWhjiWdZf_[i % 0/ ± 5 #& " '3 " *% 0' . " ,*/( " piecrust. Armed with a food processor, a roll of plastic wrap, and a rolling pin, anyone can do it. And even experienced cooks (not to mention experienced eaters) are amazed by the tender qualities of pastry made with rice ﬂour. There are two secrets. One is rolling the dough out between two sheets of plastic wrap, which not only keeps warm hands off it but avoids adding extra ﬂour, which makes any pastry cardboard-y. The other secret is making sure that your creation is enjoyed soon after baking, so that the ﬁlling contrasts with the crisp pastry. The only exceptions are tarts ﬁlled with chopped or ground-nut mixtures, which will keep for two or three days without softening. Double-crust pies made with gluten-free pastry are also easy to achieve—I’ve included an apple pie, but you can use any fruit you like.

',-

_VPR SY\b_ aN_a `URYY

5)& 4& */4 536 $ 5*0/4 -0 0, -&/( 5): but the actual process is quick. Set out everything you need beforehand except the butter, which should be taken out of the refrigerator just before you use it. If you plan to make a savory quiche or tart, omit the sugar. This pastry is more fragile than the wheat-ﬂour variety, with a delectable crunch. The dough (or the semibaked shells) can be frozen.

9ecX_d[j^[h_Y[Åekh"YehdijWhY^"nWdj^Wd]kc"iWbj" WdZik]Wh_dW\eeZfheY[iieh$FheY[iiXh_[Åojec_n$7ZZ j^[Xkjj[h"WdZfkbi[kdj_b_j\ehcif[W#i_p[Zbkcfi$7ZZ j^[[]]"WdZfheY[iiXh_[Åojec_n$7ZZWjWXb[ifeede\ _Y[mWj[h"WdZfkbi[+eh,j_c[ijecWa[WXWbbe\Zek]^ j^WjXWh[boYb_d]ije][j^[h$ Jkhdj^[Zek]^ekj"YhkcXiWdZWbb"WdZ\ehc_dje W be] m_j^ oekh Ykff[Z ^WdZi$ 9kj e\\ WXekj ^Wb\ j^[ Zek]^mhWfWdZh[\h_][hWj[j^[h[cW_dZ[h"WdZfbWY[ edWi^[[je\fbWij_YmhWf$Jefm_j^Wi[YedZi^[[je\ fbWij_YmhWf"WdZhebbekj'À._dY^j^_Ya"\ehc_d]W'&#eh ''#_dY^Y_hYb[$?ji^ekbZX[(_dY^[im_Z[hj^Wdj^[jWhj fWdoekfbWdjeki[$?\j^[[Z][ibeeahek]^"b_\jj^[jef i^[[je\fbWij_YmhWf"jkYaj^[c_d"j^[dhebbb_]^jboje _dYehfehWj[$ Jkhd j^[ fWijho el[h je Y^[Ya \eh Wd [l[d j^_Yad[ii$

DVQTCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO HVN UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU UBCMFTQPPOTVHBS PNJUGPSTBWPSZUBSUT PSRVJDIFT

UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDLT VOTBMUFECVUUFS DPME DVUJOTNBMM DVCFT MBSHFFHH

N

. BLFTUXPJ ODIQBTUSZ TIFMMT PSPOFJ ODIBOE POFJ ODIT IFMM

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR`

169

F[[b e\\ j^[ jef bWo[h e\ fbWij_Y mhWf" WdZ Åef j^[ Zek]^ _dje j^[ jWhj fWd$ H[cel[ j^[ i[YedZ bWo[h e\ fbWij_YmhWf$?\_jij_Yai"fbWY[j^[fWd"fbWij_YWdZWbb"ed WYeea_[i^[[jWdZh[\h_][hWj[\eh'&c_dkj[i$;Wi[j^[ Zek]^W]W_dijj^[i_Z[im_j^ekjijh[jY^_d]_j"cWa_d]W b_jjb[fekY^edj^[_di_Z[h_c$J^_imWo"j^[[Z][e\j^[ jWhji^[bbm_bbX[j^_Ya[h$Fki^j^[Zek]^W]W_dijj^[Åkj[Z i_Z[iWdZjh_c[l[dm_j^j^[jefe\j^[fWd$?\j^[h[Wh[ Wdo^eb[iehj^_dfbWY[i"`kijfWjY^m_j^j^[jh_cc_d]i$ Fh_Ya W \[m ^eb[i _d j^[ XWi[$ I[Ykh[ j^[ fWijho h_c Xofki^_d]_jl[hoib_]^jboel[hj^[jefe\j^[fWdi[[ X[bem$FbWY[j^[fWd_dj^[\h[[p[h\eh'&c_dkj[i$MhWf WdZ h[\h_][hWj[ Wdo Zek]^ jh_cc_d]i _d YWi[ oek d[[Z j^[c\ehfWjY^_d]bWj[h$ Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$ 8Wa[j^[i^[bb\eh'+c_dkj[ikdj_bÄhcWdZ`kijijWhj_d] jeYebeh$Ikffehj_d]j^[fWd\heckdZ[hd[Wj^iej^[h_d] Ze[id¼jYec[beei["jhWdi\[hjeWhWYaWdZb[jYeebX[\eh[ Äbb_d]$<ehW\kbboYeea[Zi^[bb"XWa[\eh)&c_dkj[i$ -NA>=GEJC=1=NP0DAHH

Je ^[bf cWa[ ikh[ j^Wj W fWijho i^[bb h[cW_di Yh_if _d h[bWj_ed je j^[ Äbb_d]" _j i^ekbZ X[ fh[XWa[Z `kij kdj_b Ähc Xkj dej Yebeh[Z$ >em[l[h" XWa_d] Wd [cfjo i^[bb ^Wi _ji f[h_bi0 j^[ i_Z[i ibkcf WdZ j^[ XWi[ fk\\i kf$ Ceijh[Y_f[iik]][ijb_d_d]_jm_j^Wi^[[je\Wbkc_dkc \e_b WdZ Zh_[Z X[Wdi" Xkj j^_i h_iai j[Wh_d] j^[ j[dZ[h

'-&

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

fWijho m^[d oek b_\j j^[ \e_b$ Fhe\[ii_edWb fWijho Y^[\i ^Wl[WX[jj[hc[j^eZ0j^[o`kijfh[iij^[fWijhokfWdZ l[hoib_]^jboel[hj^[i_Z[iiej^WjW'À',#_dY^b_fe\fWijho h[ijiedjefe\j^[h_c"m^_Y^WdY^ehi_j$:ed¼jcWa[ j^_i jee [njh[c[ eh j^[ XWa[Z i^[bb c_]^j Xh[Wa m^[d oek kdcebZ _j$ =GA@1=NP0DAHH#ENOPE@

?\ W fh[XWa[Z fWijho i^[bb i^ekbZ Z[l[bef YhWYai Wi _j XWa[i"kikWbboj^[h[ikbje\ijh[jY^_d]j^[Zek]^"Zed¼j fWd_Y$>W_hb_d[YhWYaiZed¼jcWjj[h"Xkjm_Z[hed[imekbZ b[jj^[Äbb_d][iYWf[$B[jj^[i^[bbYeeb"j^[di_cfbohebb icWbb f_[Y[i e\ b[\jel[h" heec j[cf[hWjkh[ hWm fWijho Zek]^ _dje b_jjb[ hef[i WdZ ][djbo iceej^ j^[c _d fei_j_ed" eh \ehc W bWh][h" ÅWj fWjY^ \eh W YhWYa[Z h_c$ J^[dÄbbj^[jWhjWdZXWa[_j$Deed[m_bb[l[hadem$

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR`

171

]RPN[ aN_a

JODI3JDF'MPVS5BSU 4IFMM QBHF

IBMG CBLFEBOEDPPMFE UBCMFTQPPOTBQSJDPU KBN IFBUFE TJFWFE BOEDPPMFETMJHIUMZ DVQ PVODFT QFDBOT QMVTIBMWFT GPSEFDPSBUJPO DVQTVHBS UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS TPGUFOFE MBSHFFHHT UBCMFTQPPOEBSLSVN UBCMFTQPPOTCSPXO SJDFºPVS N

'-(

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

53 "%*5*0/"- */(3&%*&/ 5 4 64&% */ a different way turn this tart into an elegant ﬁnale for a holiday meal. Unlike creamy or fruit-ﬁlled tarts, it will keep for two or three days in the refrigerator without the pastry shell losing its tender crispness. If you want to make a good thing even better, bake the tart without the pecan decoration, let cool, cover with the dark chocolate glaze used on the Chocolate Éclairs (page 196), arrange the pecan halves on top, and let stand until set.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$ I[jj^[jWhji^[bb"ij_bb_dj^[fWd"edWXWa_d]i^[[j$ Ifh[WZj^[`Wc][djboel[hj^[XWi["ki_d]j^[XWYae\W ifeed$ 9ecX_d[j^[f[YWdiWdZik]Wh_dW\eeZfheY[iieh" WdZ fheY[ii je W Äd[ c[Wb$ 7ZZ j^[ Xkjj[h" WdZ fhe# Y[iijeXb[dZ$7ZZj^[[]]iWdZhkc"WdZfheY[iikdj_b iceej^$7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh"WdZfheY[ii`kijbed][dek]^ jec_n$Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"ifh[WZ_dj^[jWhji^[bb edjefe\j^[`WcWdZWhhWd][j^[f[YWd^Wbl[iWhekdZ j^[ [Z][" b_a[ j^[ dkc[hWbi ed W YbeYa$ 8Wa[ kdj_b j^[ ikh\WY[_i]ebZ[dWdZj^[fWijho_i]ebZ[dXhemd"WXekj )+ c_dkj[i$ FbWY[ j^[ fWd ed W m_h[ hWYa WdZ b[j Yeeb$ KdcebZ"WdZjhWdi\[hj^[jWhjjeWÅWjfbWjj[h$

2JIKH@EJC=1=NPBNKI=) KKOA =OA@ 1=NPKN.QE?DA-=J

I[jj^[Yeeb[ZjWhjfWdel[hWdkdef[d[ZYWdWdZb[jj^[ Åkj[Zh_c\WbbZemd$J^[jWhjYWdj^[dX[jhWdi\[hh[Z"ij_bb edj^[XWi["jeWfbWjj[h$7bj[hdWj_l[bo"YWh[\kbboib_Z[j^[ ÅWjXWi[\hecWi[YedZjWhjfWdX[jm[[dj^[fWijhoWdZ j^[XWi[e\j^[fWd_jmWiXWa[Z_d"WdZjhWdi\[hj^[jWhj jeWÅWjfbWjj[h$Ceijc[jWbifWjkbWiWh[jeedWhhem\eh WZ[gkWj[ikffehj$

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR`

173

NYZ\[Q _ N`]OR__ f aN_a

JODI3JDF'MPVS5BSU 4IFMM QBHF

IBMG CBLFEBOEDPPMFE DVQSBTQCFSSZKBN IFBUFE DVQ PVODFT XIPMF BMNPOET DVQTVHBS UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS TPGUFOFE MBSHFFHHT UBCMFTQPPOTXIJUFSJDF ºPVS g l a ze s DVQBQSJDPUKBN

IFBUFEBOETJFWFE DVQDPOGFDUJPOFST± TVHBS TJGUFE UPUBCMFTQPPOT MFNPOKVJDF N

'-*

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5 80 ( - " ;& 4 " 13*$05 " /% - &.0/ top this scrumptious tart, which is claimed by the Swedes as an Alexandertorte, and by the English as a Bakewell Tart. Unlike creamy, ﬁlled tarts, this one will keep refrigerated for three days without losing its crispness.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$ I[jj^[jWhji^[bb"ij_bb_dj^[fWd"edWXWa_d]i^[[j$ Ifh[WZj^[`Wc][djboel[hj^[XWi["ki_d]j^[XWYae\W ifeed$ 9ecX_d[j^[WbcedZiWdZik]Wh_dW\eeZfheY[iieh" WdZfheY[iijeWÄd[c[Wb$7ZZj^[Xkjj[h"WdZfheY[ii jeXb[dZ$7ZZj^[[]]i"WdZfheY[iikdj_biceej^$7ZZ j^[h_Y[Åekh"WdZfheY[ii`kijbed][dek]^jec_n$ Ki_d] W hkXX[h ifWjkbW" ifh[WZ j^[ WbcedZ c_njkh[ edjefe\j^[`WcWdZiceej^j^[ikh\WY[$8Wa[kdj_bj^[ Äbb_d]_i]ebZ[dWdZib_]^jboZec[Z"WXekj)+c_dkj[i$7d _di[hj[Z jeej^f_Ya i^ekbZ [c[h][ Yb[Wd$ FbWY[ j^[ fWd edWm_h[hWYa"WdZb[jj^[jWhjYeebX[\eh[kdcebZ_d]$ JhWdi\[hjeWÅWjfbWjj[h$ 8hki^j^[ikh\WY[e\j^[jWhjm_j^j^[Wfh_Yej]bWp[WdZ b[j i[j" WXekj ' ^ekh$ Ij_h j^[ Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ ik]Wh m_j^ `kij[dek]^b[ced`k_Y[jecWa[Whkddo\heij_d]"WdZ Xhki^ehZh_ppb[edjef$

_NV`V[ d NY[ba aN_a

# " 4&% 0/ " / 0-% Scottish recipe, the rich fruit ﬁlling is balanced by a splash of raspberry vinegar. The tart will hold well, refrigerated, for three days. Should it last that long, which is unlikely. It also freezes well.

>[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$I[jj^[jWhji^[bb"ij_bb_dj^[ fWd"edWXWa_d]i^[[j$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ Xhemd ik]Wh" Xkjj[h" l_d[]Wh" WdZ []]" WdZc_nm[bb$Ij_h_dj^[hW_i_diWdZZh_[Z\hk_j"WdZWZZ j^[ mWbdkji$ Ifeed [l[dbo _dje j^[ fWijho i^[bb$ 8Wa[ kdj_bj^[fWijho_i]ebZ[dWdZj^[Äbb_d]_iÄhc"WXekj)& c_dkj[i$ FbWY[ j^[ fWd ed W m_h[ hWYa" WdZ b[j j^[ jWhj Yeeb X[\eh[kdcebZ_d]$JhWdi\[hjeWÅWjfbWjj[h$:kijb_]^jbo m_j^Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]Wh$

JODI3JDF'MPVS5BSU 4IFMM QBHF

IBMG CBLFEBOEDPPMFE UBCMFTQPPOTQBDLFE EBSLCSPXOTVHBS UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFE CVUUFS NFMUFEBOE DPPMFEUPMVLFXBSN UBCMFTQPPOSBTQCFSSZ WJOFHBSPSPUIFS NFMMPXSFEXJOF WJOFHBS MBSHFFHH DVQSBJTJOT DVQNJYFEESJFEGSVJU DVSSBOUT XIPMFESJFE DIFSSJFT DIPQQFE QJUUFEQSVOFT

DVQDIPQQFEXBMOVUT $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS N

4FSWFTUP

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR`

175

[ba P_ bZO P_ b`a

DVQT PVODFT BMNPOET UBCMFTQPPOTTVHBS DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS UFBTQPPOBMMTQJDF UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS DPME DVUVQ

N

'-,

.BLFTPOFJ ODIQJFDSVTU

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5)*4 4*.1-& $364 5 8 )*$) you can pat into a pie pan or roll out, also makes a good base for a cheesecake.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)(+<$>Wl[h[WZoW/#_dY^]bWii f_[fWd$ 9ecX_d[j^[WbcedZi"ik]Wh"h_Y[Åekh"WdZWbbif_Y[_d W\eeZfheY[iieh$FheY[iijeWÄd[c[Wb$7ZZj^[Xkjj[h" WdZfheY[iiXh_[Åokdj_bYeWhi[YhkcXi\ehc$ ;_j^[h fh[ii j^[ YhkcXi _dje j^[ f_[ fWd m_j^ oekh Äd][hieh"\ehWd[Wj[hh[ikbj"hebbX[jm[[djmei^[[jie\ fbWij_YmhWf_djeW'&#_dY^Y_hYb[$F_Yakfj^[jefi^[[j WdZ\ebZj^[hek]^[Z][i_dmWhZ"j^[dh[fbWY[j^[fbWij_Y mhWfWdZhebbW]W_djecWa[WY_hYb[m_j^Wiceej^[Z][$ F[[be\\j^[jefi^[[je\mhWf"_dl[hjj^[f_[fWdel[hj^[ Yhkij" WdZ jkhd j^[ m^eb[ j^_d] h_]^j i_Z[ kf$ H[cel[ j^[h[cW_d_d]fbWij_YmhWf"WdZh[fW_hWdofheXb[cWh[Wi m_j^oekhÄd][hi$8Wa[kdj_bÄhcWdZW]ebZ[d#jWdYebeh" WXekj(&c_dkj[i$B[jYeebX[\eh[Äbb_d]$

`a_NdOR__ f²P_RNZ PURR`R aN_a

5)& $) " 3. 0' " good berry tart lies in the contrast of crisp pastry and luscious ﬁlling. To be at its best, it should be enjoyed within a couple of hours of being made, except for the pastry shell, which you can bake ahead. Be sure to choose small, sweet, aromatic strawberries, not the hard, tasteless ones with white centers so beloved by supermarkets for their shipping qualities and long shelf life.

B[Wl[j^[jWhji^[bb_dj^[f_[fWd"\ehikffehj$8hki^ j^[XWi[e\j^[jWhji^[bbm_j^(jWXb[ifeedie\j^[YkhhWdj `[bbo$ 9ecX_d[j^[Yh[WcY^[[i["oe]khj"WdZb[cedYkhZ_d W\eeZfheY[iieh"WdZXb[dZkdj_biceej^$Ifeedel[hj^[ `[bbo"WdZiceej^j^[ikh\WY[$Jefm_j^j^[ijhWmX[hh_[i" WdZ]bWp[j^[cm_j^j^[h[cW_d_d](jWXb[ifeediYkhhWdj `[bbo$ H[\h_][hWj[\eh)&c_dkj[iehkfje(^ekhi$KdcebZ" jhWdi\[h je W ÅWj fbWjj[h" WdZ iYWjj[h m_j^ib_Y[ZWbcedZi"_\ki_d]$

JODI/VU$SVNC$SVTU GVMMZCBLFE QBHF BOEDPPMFE UBCMFTQPPOTSFE DVSSBOUKFMMZ NFMUFE QPVOEGSFTIDSFBN DIFFTF UBCMFTQPPOTUIJDL (SFFLZPHVSU TFFCFMPX

UBCMFTQPPOTBMMCVUUFS MFNPODVSE QJOUTNBMM SJQF TUSBXCFSSJFT QSFGFSBCMZPSHBOJD IBMWFE UBCMFTQPPOTTMJDFE BMNPOET MJHIUMZ UPBTUFE PQUJPOBM N

4FSWFTUP

$NAAG6KCQNP

7kj^[dj_Y=h[[aoe]khj_icWZ[\hec m^eb[ c_ba WdZ _i ZhW_d[Z e\ m^[o" b[Wl_d] _j Wi j^_Ya Wi iekh Yh[Wc$

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR`

177

JejWb_ij^[XhWdZceijh[WZ_boWlW_bWXb[$JecWa[oekh emd" b_d[ W YebWdZ[h m_j^ i[l[hWb bWo[hi e\ ZWcf[d[Z Y^[[i[Ybej^WdZfbWY[el[hWXemb$7ZZW)(#ekdY[jkX e\fbW_dm^eb[c_bafh[\[hWXboYh[Wc#jefoe]khjWdZb[j Zh_fel[hd_]^j"h[\h_][hWj[Z$CWa[iWXekj)Ykfi$

'-.

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

_VPR SY\b_ ]N`aN S _\YYN

*5"-*"/ 4 8 && 5 4)03 5$364 5 1" 4 53: or pasta frolla, is exceptionally tender. It’s easy to make in a food processor, but should it start to become sticky while being rolled, just pop the dough, pan and all, into the refrigerator for 10 minutes, then continue where you left off.

9ecX_d[j^[h_Y[Åekh"YehdijWhY^"nWdj^Wd]kc"XWa_d] femZ[h" ik]Wh" iWbj" Xkjj[h" WdZ b[ced p[ij" _\ ki_d]" _d W \eeZ fheY[iieh$ FheY[ii Xh_[Åo kdj_b j^[ c_njkh[ h[i[cXb[iYeWhi[c[Wb$7ZZj^[[]]iWdZ'jWXb[ifeed YebZ mWj[h" WdZ fheY[ii `kij bed] [dek]^ je YecX_d[ _djeWhek]^XWbb$JkhdekjedjeWi^[[je\fbWij_YmhWf" YhkcXiWdZWbb"WdZfki^je][j^[h_djeWbe]$9kj_dje )[gkWbf_[Y[iehWYYehZ_d]je_dijhkYj_edi\ehH_YejjW JWhj"fW]['.&"[dYbei[_dfbWij_YmhWf"WdZh[\h_][hWj[ \eh'^ekhehkfje(*^ekhi$

DVQTCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO HVN UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS DVQTVHBS 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS DPME DVUVQ UFBTQPPOHSBUFE MFNPO[FTU PQUJPOBM MBSHFFHHTMJHIUMZ CFBUFO

N

. BLFTUISFFJ ODIUBSU TIFMMTPSUIFCBTFBOE MBUUJDFUPQGPS3JDPUUB5BSU QBHF

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR`

179

_VP\aaN aN_a

SFDJQF3JDF'MPVS1BTUB 'SPMMB QBHF

QPVOETSJDPUUB QSFGFSBCMZXIPMFNJML DVQTVHBS MBSHFFHHT UBCMFTQPPO.BSTBMBPS EBSLSVN UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB FYUSBDU UBCMFTQPPOCSPXOSJDF ºPVS UBCMFTQPPOT$BOEJFE 0SBOHF1FFM QBHF PSTUPSFCPVHIU EJDFE (SBUFE[FTUPGTNBMM PSBOHF UBCMFTQPPOTHPMEFO SBJTJOT UBCMFTQPPOTQJOFOVUT N

'.&

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

1&3) " 1 4 & 7 &/ .03& " %%*$ 5 *7 & than a New York–style cheesecake, this dessert is based on a very old Roman specialty. Creamy but not cloying, it’s hard to resist seconds.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$8kjj[hW/#_dY^ifh_d]\ehc fWd$ KdmhWfj^[Zek]^WdZYkje\\ed[#j^_hZ\ehj^[bWjj_Y[ jef$FbWY[_jX[jm[[d(i^[[jie\fbWij_YmhWf"hebb_djeW '&s.#_dY^h[YjWd]b["WdZh[\h_][hWj["ÅWj$ FbWY[j^[h[cW_d_d]Zek]^X[jm[[d(i^[[jie\fbWij_Y mhWfWdZhebb_djeW'*#_dY^Y_hYb[$F[[be\\j^[jefi^[[j e\fbWij_YmhWfWdZÅefj^[Zek]^_djej^[fWd$H[cel[ j^[i[YedZi^[[je\fbWij_YmhWf"[Wi[j^[Zek]^W]W_dij j^[ Xejjec WdZ i_Z[i e\ j^[ fWd m_j^ekj ijh[jY^_d] _j" WdZjh_c[l[dm_j^j^[jef$ ?dWbWh][Xemb"ij_hje][j^[hj^[h_YejjWWdZik]Wh$8[Wj _d)m^eb[[]]iWdZ'[]]m^_j[h[i[hl[j^[oeba"ed[Wj W j_c[$ Ij_h _d j^[ CWhiWbW" lWd_bbW" h_Y[ Åekh" YWdZ_[Z ehWd][ f[[b" ehWd][ p[ij"WdZhW_i_di$Fekh j^[ c_njkh[ _dje j^[ Yhkij$IYWjj[hj^[f_d[ dkji[l[dboedjef$

9kj j^[ h[i[hl[Z fWijho _dje j[d 'À(#_dY^#m_Z[ ijh_fi$ <ehcWbWjj_Y[edjefe\j^[Äbb_d]"jh_cc_d]jeÄj$Ki_d]W ad_\[XbWZ[jebeei[d_j\hecj^[fWdÄhij"\ebZj^[[nY[ii fWijho Zemd je Yel[h j^[ [Z][i e\ j^[ bWjj_Y[$ 8b[dZ j^[ h[i[hl[Z []] oeba m_j^ ' j[Wifeed mWj[h" WdZ Xhki^ j^[ fWijhoikh\WY[im_j^_j$8Wa[kdj_bj^[YhkijXhemdiWdZj^[ Äbb_d]_ii[j"*+c_dkj[i$B[jijWdZ\eh+c_dkj[i$Beei[d j^[i_Z[ie\j^[jWhjm_j^Wad_\[XbWZ["j^[dh[b[Wi[j^[fWd h_c$JhWdi\[hjeWm_h[hWYa"ij_bbedj^[XWi["WdZb[jYeeb$ Beei[dj^[XejjecYhkij\hecj^[fWdXWi[m_j^Wm_Z[ c[jWbifWjkbW"WdZib_Z[j^[jWhjedjeWÅWji[hl_d]fbWjj[h$ I[hl[Wjheecj[cf[hWjkh[$

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR`

181

PN[QVRQ \_N[TR ]RRY

PSBOHFT DVQT QPVOE TVHBS QMVTBEEJUJPOBMGPS DPBUJOH

N

'.(

.BLFTBCPVUDVQT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

'03 40.& 3& " 40/ $ " /%*&% orange peel seems to be available in grocery stores only during the holiday season. The supermarket kind isn’t worth buying, and the imported or European-style variety, though delicious, is wildly expensive. The alternative is to make your own. Invaluable for baking, it can also be turned into a delightful after-dinner candy. Simply half dip the sugar-coated strips in melted dark chocolate, and let set.

9kjWicWbbib_Y[e\\j^[jefWdZXejjece\[WY^ehWd][$ CWa[\ekhl[hj_YWbYkji"j^hek]^j^[f[[bedbo"Wj[gkWb _dj[hlWbi$Fkbbe\\j^[f[[b_d\ekhgkWhj[hi"h[i[hl_d]j^[ \hk_j\ehWdej^[hki[$ FbWY[ j^[ f[[b _d W fWd" WdZ Yel[h m_j^ YebZ mWj[h$ 8h_d] je W Xe_b WdZ j^[d ZhW_d$ H[f[Wj jm_Y[ ceh[" je b[WY^ekjWdoX_jj[hd[ii$M^[dYeeb[dek]^je^WdZb[" fWh[e\\Wb_jjb[e\j^[m^_j[f_j^_\_j_il[hoj^_Ya"XkjZe dejh[cel[_jWbbehj^[f[[bm_bb^WhZ[dm^[dYWdZ_[Z$ 9kj[WY^i[Yj_ed_d^Wb\b[d]j^mWoi$ 9ecX_d[j^[ik]Whm_j^(YkfiYebZmWj[h_dW^[Wlo fWd"WdZXh_d] je W Xe_b$ I_cc[h \eh + c_dkj[i" j^[d WZZj^[f[[b$I_cc[h][djbo\eh'^ekh"WdZb[jYeeb_d j^[iohkf$ H[cel[ j^[ f[[bWdZYkj _dje 'À*#_dY^#m_Z[

ijh_fi$B[jZhoel[hd_]^jedWm_h[hWYai[jel[hWi^[[j e\Wbkc_dkc\e_bjeYWjY^j^[Zh_fi$9el[hWfbWj[m_j^ ik]Wh"WdZhebbj^[ijh_fi_d_j$B[jZhoekj\ehW\[mceh[ ^ekhi ed W Yb[Wd" Zho m_h[ hWYa$ FbWY[ _d Wd W_hj_]^j YedjW_d[h"WdZijeh[_dj^[h[\h_][hWjeheh\h[[p[h$

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR`

183

_VPU P\_[ZRNY ]VRP_ b`a

DVQDPSONFBM

QSFGFSBCMZTUPOF HSPVOE DVQTXFFUXIJUFSJDF ºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI DVQTVHBS UFBTQPPOYBOUIBO HVN UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDLT VOTBMUFECVUUFS DPME DVUJOTNBMM DVCFT MBSHFFHH

N

. BLFTPOFJ ODIEPVCMF DSVTUQJFTIFMMPSUXP PQFOG BDFEQJFTIFMMT

'.*

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

40 $36/$) : " /% %&-&$ 5" #-& that you can make cookies with it, this piecrust provides just the right contrast for the tender fruit ﬁlling. As regular cornmeal is on the coarse side, I whirl it in a food processor for 2 minutes to get a ﬁner texture. To make cornmeal cookies, roll the dough 1 ⁄4 inch thick, and cut them out with a 21 ⁄2-inch cutter. Brush the cookies with cream or milk, and sprinkle with sugar before baking at 350°F until golden brown at the edges, about 15 minutes.

FheY[iij^[Yehdc[Wb_dW\eeZfheY[iieh\eh(c_dkj[i kdj_bceh[Äd[bo]hekdZ$7ZZj^[h_Y[Åekh"YehdijWhY^" ik]Wh"nWdj^Wd]kc"WdZiWbj"WdZfheY[iijeYecX_d[$ 7ZZj^[Xkjj[h"WdZfkbi[kdj_b_j\ehcif[W#i_p[Zbkcfi$ 7ZZj^[[]]"WdZfheY[iiXh_[Åojec_n$7ZZ'jWXb[ifeed _Y[mWj[h"WdZfheY[iiXh_[ÅojecWa[WXWbbe\Zek]^j^Wj XWh[boYb_d]ije][j^[h"WZZ_d]Wdej^[hj[Wifeede\mWj[h _\ d[Y[iiWho je cWa[ W ZWcf Zek]^$ Jkhd j^[ Zek]^ ekj" YhkcXi WdZ Wbb" edje W i^[[j e\ fbWij_Y mhWf" WdZ \ehc_djeWbe]m_j^oekhYkff[Z^WdZi$9kj_d^Wb\$J^[ Zek]^_idemh[WZojeki[ehYWdX[[dYbei[Z_dfbWij_Y mhWfWdZh[\h_][hWj[Z\ehkfje(*^ekhi$

N]]YR ]VR dVaU N _VPU P\_ [ZRNY P_ b`a *' :0 6 ) " /, &3 " ' 5 &3 a double-crust pie, here’s how to make one with a tempting gluten-free crust. Naturally, you can substitute 5 cups of any fruit ﬁlling you please, but shorten the baking time a little for soft summer fruits.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je *(+<$ >Wl[ h[WZo W /#_dY^ f_[ fWd" fh[\[hWXbo W ^[Wlo Wbkc_dkc ed[ m_j^ W f_[hY[Z XWi[ieij[WcYWd[iYWf["m^_Y^^[bfij^[j[njkh[e\j^[ XejjecYhkij$9ecX_d[j^[Wffb[i"b[cedp[ijWdZ`k_Y[" hW_i_di"'À)Ykfe\j^[ik]Wh"h_Y[Åekh"WdZY_ddWced"jeii jec_nm[bb"WdZi[jWi_Z[$ Meha_d]m_j^^Wb\j^[Zek]^WjWj_c["hebbekjX[jm[[d i^[[jie\fbWij_YmhWf"b_\j_d]j^[jefi^[[jWdZjkYa_d] _d j^[ hek]^ [Z][i" _dje ''#_dY^ Y_hYb[i$ I[j ed[ Y_hYb[ Wi_Z[\ehj^[jefYhkij$Ki[j^[ej^[hY_hYb[jeb_d[j^[f_[ fWd0f[[be\\j^[jefi^[[je\fbWij_YmhWfWdZÅefj^[ Zek]^ _dje fbWY[" j^[d YWh[\kbbo f[[b e\\ j^[ h[cW_d_d] i^[[j$7ZZj^[\hk_j"f_b_d]_jkfib_]^jbo"WdZZejm_j^j^[ Xkjj[h$9el[hm_j^j^[jefYhkij"i[Wbj^[h_cXoÅkj_d]"eh fh[ii_d]m_j^j^[j_d[ie\W\eha"WdZjh_ce\\Wdo[nY[ii Zek]^$9ecX_d[j^[[]]oebam_j^'j[WifeedmWj[h"WdZ Xhki^el[hj^[jef"Xkjdejj^[h_c"Wi_jc_]^j][jjee Xhemd$Ifh_dab[m_j^j^[h[cW_d_d]jWXb[ifeede\ik]Wh$ 9kjW\[mib_ji_dj^[jef\ehij[Wcje[iYWf[$FbWY[j^[ f_[fWdedWXWa_d]i^[[j"jeYWjY^Wdoif_bbi$8Wa[\eh

PS'VKJPS#SBFCVSO BQQMFT QFFMFE DPSFE IBMWFE BOEDVUJOUP JODIUIJDLTMJDFT UPNBLFDVQT

(SBUFE[FTUPGMFNPO UBCMFTQPPOTMFNPO KVJDF DVQHPMEFOSBJTJOT DVQQMVTUBCMFTQPPO TVHBS UBCMFTQPPOTXIJUFSJDF ºPVS UFBTQPPOHSPVOE DJOOBNPO 1BTUSZGPS3JDI $PSONFBM1JFDSVTU QBHF

UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS DVUJOUPTNBMM DVCFT FHHZPML N

4FSWFTUP

aN_ a` N[Q ]VR`

185

(&c_dkj[i"j^[dh[ZkY[j^[^[Wjje)+&<WdZYedj_dk[ XWa_d] kdj_b j^[ Äbb_d] _i j[dZ[h m^[d f_[hY[Z m_j^ W dWhhemad_\[XbWZ[j^hek]^ed[e\j^[ib_ji"WdZj^[Yhkij _i]ebZ[dXhemd"WXekj)&c_dkj[iceh[$A[[fY^[Ya_d] Wi _j XWa[i" WdZ _\ j^[ jef Xhemd jee \Wij" Yel[h b_]^jbo m_j^Wi^[[je\Wbkc_dkc\e_b$I[hl[mWhc"dej^ej$

'.,

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

YWa[iWdZ Z[ii[h ji 0 /& 0 ' 5 )& . " / : 3& 8" 3%4 */)&3&/ 5 in being a wheat-free cook is that your cakes are much lighter than anybody else’s. (Hint: professional pastry chefs choose low-gluten cake ﬂour for a reason; using no-gluten ﬂour goes one better.) And thanks to using nut ﬂours, and eggs to make them rise as opposed to lots of baking powder, the cakes here even offer some good nutrition along with their enticing ﬂavors and textures. Furthermore, since many of the premium quality ingredients are naturally sweet, you can get away with using far less sugar than usual.

'.-

S\b_ V [T_RQVR[a

P U\P\YNaR d NY[ba PNXR 5)*4 ' 063 * /(3&%*&/5 $)0$0- "5& cake (or ﬁve, if you count a dusting of powdered sugar) tastes sinfully rich, but contains no wheat ﬂour, no egg yolks, no butter . . . and no cholesterol.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ =h[Wi[ j^[ i_Z[i e\ Wd .#_dY^hekdZYWa[fWdm_j^Wc_bZ#jWij_d]l[][jWXb[e_b" WdZb_d[j^[XWi[m_j^WY_hYb[e\fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ 9ecX_d[j^[mWbdkjiWdZYeYeWfemZ[h_dW\eeZfhe# Y[iieh$ Fkbi[ ed WdZ e\\ je \ehc W c[Wbo Yedi_ij[dYo" ijeff_d]m^[dj^[c_njkh[ijWhjijeYb_cXj^[i_Z[ie\ j^[XembWdZj^h[Wj[dijeX[Yec[WfWij[$ Ki_d] Wd [b[Yjh_Y c_n[h" X[Wj j^[ ;]]X[Wj[hi \eh )& i[YedZi"j^[dibemboWZZj^[ik]Wh$8[Wjkdj_bj^[c_njkh[ jh_fb[i WdZ h[WZ_[i j^[ h_XXed ijW][" WXekj ) c_dkj[i$ ;]]X[Wj[hij^_Ya[dceh[gk_Yaboj^Wdm^eb[[]]i$<ebZ _dj^[mWbdkjc_njkh[_dj^h[[XWjY^[i"ifeed_d]_jWhekdZ j^[ [Z][ e\ j^[ Xemb$ J^_i ^[bfi je Wle_Z Z[ÅWj_d] j^[ XWjj[h$ JhWdi\[hj^[XWjj[hje j^[fWd"WdZiceej^j^[ jef$8Wa[kdj_bj^[YWa[ h[i_iji W b_]^j Äd][h fh[iikh[ WdZ i^h_dai WmWo ib_]^jbo \hec j^[

DVQT PVODFT XBMOVUT UBCMFTQPPOT VOTXFFUFOFEOBUVSBM DPDPBQPXEFS OPU %VUDIQSPDFTTFE

UBCMFTQPPOT &HHCFBUFSTPSPUIFS MJRVJEFHHTVCTUJUVUF DVQTVHBS $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS PQUJPOBM

N

4FSWFT

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a`

189

i_Z[ie\j^[fWd"(+je)&c_dkj[i$7d_di[hj[Zjeej^f_Ya i^ekbZYec[ekjib_]^jboij_Yao$:edejel[hXWa["Wij^_i mekbZcWa[j^[YWa[Zho$B[jijWdZ\eh'&c_dkj[i"j^[d jkhd ekj edje W Yeeb_d] hWYa$ J^[ YWa[ _i c[Wdj je X[ gk_j[bem$F[[be\\j^[fWf[h"jkhdj^[YWa[h_]^ji_Z[kf edWi[YedZhWYa"WdZb[jYeeb$:kijm_j^Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ ik]Wh"_\ki_d]"WdZjhWdi\[hjeWÅWjfbWjj[h$ =GA-=J NA@AJPE=HO

<eh j^[ X[ij XWa_d] h[ikbji" ki[ fhe\[ii_edWb#gkWb_jo" ^[Wlo#]Wk][Wbkc_dkcYWa[fWdim_j^(#_dY^#Z[[fi_Z[i WdZW,#YkfYWfWY_jo$CWZ[\ehXWa[hoki[WdZWlW_bWXb[ j^hek]^ jef a_jY^[dmWh[ ijeh[i ikY^ Wi M_bb_Wci# IedecW" j^[o XWa[ [l[dbo WdZ ^ebZ ceh[ j^Wd j^[ Å_cio" jee#i^Wbbem a_dZ" m^_Y^ fhecej[ kd[l[d h_i_d]" iYehY^_d]"WdZel[hÅemi$7iW][d[hWbhkb["d[l[hÄbbW YWa[ fWd ceh[ j^Wd jme#j^_hZi \kbb$ B_d_d] W YWa[ fWd m_j^fWhY^c[djW_Zi_d][jj_d]j^[YWa[ekjiW\[bo"WdZ ^[bfijefh[l[djel[hXhemd_d]j^[kdZ[hi_Z[$

'/&

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

PU\P\YNaR U NgRY[ba a_ bSSYR PNXR

) " ;&-/6 5 4 " /% %" 3, $ )0 $0- "5& a favorite combination in Italian confectionery, puts this fudgy torta into the deluxe class.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ 8kjj[h j^[ i_Z[i e\ Wd .#_dY^hekdZYWa[fWdWdZb_d[j^[XWi[m_j^fWhY^c[dj fWf[h$ 9ecX_d[j^[^Wp[bdkji"Y^eYebWj["(jWXb[ifeedie\ j^[ik]Wh"j^[h_Y[Åekh"WdZYeYeWfemZ[h_dW\eeZfhe# Y[iieh$FheY[iijecWa[WÄd[c[Wbe\[l[dYedi_ij[dYo$ 7ZZj^[ehWd][p[ij$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ []]i WdZ j^[ h[cW_d_d] ik]Wh _d W bWh][Xemb"WdZX[Wjkdj_bj^[c_njkh[h[WY^[ij^[h_XXed ijW]["WXekj-c_dkj[i$Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"ifeed j^[ ^Wp[bdkj#Y^eYebWj[ c_njkh[ WhekdZ j^[ [Z][ e\ j^[ XembWdZ\ebZ_d"Z[ÅWj_d]j^[XWjj[hWib_jjb[Wifeii_Xb[$ JhWdi\[h je j^[ fWd$ 8Wa[ kdj_b j^[ YWa[ h[i_iji W b_]^j Äd][hfh[iikh[WdZijWhjijefkbbWmWo\hecj^[i_Z[ie\ j^[fWd"((je(+c_dkj[i$:edejel[hXWa[ehj^[YWa[ m_bbX[Zho_dij[WZe\ib_]^jbo\kZ]o$B[jj^[YWa[Yeeb_d j^[ fWd \eh '& c_dkj[i" j^[d hkd W ad_\[ XbWZ[ WhekdZ j^[ i_Z[i je beei[d _j$ KdcebZ WdZ ][djbo f[[b e\\ j^[ fWhY^c[dj$B[jYeeb"h_]^ji_Z[kf"edWhWYa$:kijb_]^jbo m_j^YeYeWfemZ[hX[\eh[i[hl_d]$

DVQ PVODFT IB[FMOVUT PVODFTUP EBSLDIPDPMBUF ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE PSDVQ DIPDPMBUFDIJQT DVQTVHBS UBCMFTQPPOTCSPXO SJDFºPVS UBCMFTQPPO VOTXFFUFOFEOBUVSBM DPDPBQPXEFS OPU %VUDIQSPDFTTFE

QMVTFYUSBGPSEVTUJOH UPQPGDBLF UFBTQPPOHSBUFE PSBOHF[FTU MBSHFFHHT $PDPBQPXEFS N

4FSWFTUP

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a`

191

DA=PEJCSEPD DK?KH=PA

=^_hWhZ[bb_"WÄd[ebZYecfWdoXWi[Z_dIWd
'/(

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

Rea_N Y VTUa PU\P\YNaR PNXR 3&.*/*4$&/ 5 0' " /(&- '0 0% cake in texture but a triﬂe more substantial, this lofty cake contains a dash of espresso for a subtle mocha ﬂavor.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$>Wl[h[WZoW'&#_dY^jkX[ fWd"kd]h[Wi[Z$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ YehdijWhY^" YeYeW femZ[h" Y_ddWced" WdZiWbj"WdZi[jWi_Z[$ I[fWhWj[ j^[ []]i _dje ( bWh][ Xembi$ 8[Wj j^[ []] m^_j[i kdj_b \hej^o$ Ibembo WZZ 'À( Ykf e\ j^[ ik]Wh WdZ X[WjWj^_]^if[[Zkdj_bij_\\XkjdejZho$ Ki_d] j^[ iWc[ X[Wj[hi de d[[Z je mWi^ j^[c" X[Wjj^[h[cW_d_d])À*Ykfik]Wh_djej^[[]]oebaiWb_jjb[ WjWj_c["WdZX[Wjkdj_bj^[c_njkh[_il[hoj^_YaWdZW fWb[b[cedYebeh"WXekj+c_dkj[i$8[Wj_dj^[Z_iiebl[Z Ye\\[[$I_\jj^[YehdijWhY^#YeYeWc_njkh[edjef"WdZ\ebZ _db_]^jboXkjj^ehek]^bo$<ebZj^[X[Wj[d[]]m^_j[i_dje j^[XWjj[h$Ifeed_djej^[jkX[fWd"WdZhWf_jicWhjboed j^[Yekdj[hjeXWd_i^WdoW_hfeYa[ji$8Wa[kdj_bj^[YWa[ ifh_d]iXWYa\hecWb_]^jÄd][hjekY^"+&c_dkj[i$?dl[hj j^[ fWd m_j^ j^[ jkX[ h[ij_d] el[h W Xejjb[ _\ j^[ fWd Ze[idej^Wl[\[[j"WdZb[jYeeb$M^[dYebZ"beei[dj^[ i_Z[iWdZY[dj[he\j^[YWa[m_j^Wi^Whfad_\[XbWZ["WdZ kdcebZm_j^j^[XWi[e\j^[YWa[\WY_d]kfmWhZ$:kij m_j^Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]Wh`kijX[\eh[i[hl_d]$

DVQDPSOTUBSDI DVQVOTXFFUFOFE

OBUVSBMDPDPBQPXEFS OPU%VUDIQSPDFTTFE

UFBTQPPOHSPVOE DJOOBNPO 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU MBSHFFHHT DVQTTVHBS UBCMFTQPPOJOTUBOU FTQSFTTP PSSFHVMBS DPGGFF EJTTPMWFEJO UBCMFTQPPOEBSLSVN PSXBUFS $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS

N

4FSWFTUP

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a`

193

PU\P\YNaR T YNgRQ PUR`a[ba TNaRNb

DVQDIFTUOVUºPVSPS

CSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI

UFBTQPPOCBLJOHQPXEFS MBSHFFHHT TFQBSBUFE DVQTVHBS UFBTQPPOWBOJMMBFYUSBDU s i m p l e s y ru p GPSNPJTUFOJOHUIFDBLF MBZFST

DVQTVHBS DVQ XBUFS UBCMFTQPPOEBSLSVN f i l l i ng PVODF DBO TXFFUFOFEDIFTUOVU TQSFBE TVDIBT $MnNFOU'BVHJFS UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDL VOTBMUFECVUUFS TPGUFOFE UBCMFTQPPOEBSLSVN

'/*

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5)*4'3&/$) */41*3&%$ ",&4&%6$&4 everyone—it’s such a perfect combination of moist, rum-infused chestnut cake, voluptuous chestnut buttercream, and dark chocolate with just a touch of apricot. Be sure to allow enough resting time for frosting the cake: the jam glaze must dry a little before you add a coating of melted chocolate. Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$8kjj[hj^[i_Z[ie\jme.#_dY^ YWa[fWdi"WdZb_d[j^[Xejjecim_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ I_\jje][j^[hj^[Y^[ijdkjÅekh"YehdijWhY^"WdZXWa_d] femZ[h"WdZi[jWi_Z[$ 8[Wjj^[[]]m^_j[ikdj_bj^[oijWhjje^ebZj^[_hi^Wf[" j^[dX[Wj_d^Wb\j^[ik]Whje\ehcW\W_hboij_\\c[h_d]k[$ ?dWi[fWhWj[Xemb"Xkjki_d]j^[iWc[X[Wj[hided[[Z je mWi^ j^[c" X[Wj j^[ []] oebai WdZ j^[ h[cW_d_d] ik]Whkdj_bl[hoj^_YaWdZfWb[_dYebeh")je*c_dkj[i$ 8[Wj_dj^[lWd_bbW$Ki_d]WhkXX[hifWjkbW"b_]^jbo\ebZ_d j^[c[h_d]k[WdZj^[Åekhc_njkh[_dWbj[hdWj[XWjY^[i" Z[ÅWj_d]j^[XWjj[hWib_jjb[Wifeii_Xb[$:_l_Z[X[jm[[d j^[fWdiWdZiceej^j^[jefi$8Wa[kdj_bj^[YWa[iWh[ ifh_d]o je j^[ jekY^ WdZ Wd _di[hj[Z jeej^f_Ya Yec[i ekjYb[Wd"WXekj((c_dkj[i$B[jYeeb\eh+c_dkj[i_dj^[ fWdi" j^[d kdcebZ WdZ ][djbo f[[b e\\ j^[ fWhY^c[dj$ B[jYeebYecfb[j[bo"h_]^ji_Z[kf"edWm_h[hWYa$ 8b[dZj^[ik]WhWdZmWj[h_dWicWbb"^[WloiWkY[fWd WdZXh_d]jeWXe_b$H[ZkY[j^[^[WjjebemWdZ"i^Wa_d]j^[

fWd][djboXoj^[^WdZb[je^[bfZ_iiebl[j^[ik]Wh"i_cc[h \eh+c_dkj[i$B[jYeebjebka[mWhcWdZij_h_dj^[hkc$ Je Wii[cXb[0 8hki^ Wdo beei[ YhkcXi e\\ j^[ YWa[i m_j^WZhofWijhoXhki^$9h[Wcj^[Y^[ijdkjifh[WZWdZ Xkjj[hje][j^[h"WdZWZZj^[hkc$FbWY[ed[e\j^[YWa[i" h_]^ji_Z[kf"edWdkfjkhd[Z.#_dY^YWa[fWdh[ij_d]ed Wi^[[je\Wbkc_dkc\e_b$8hki^j^[ikh\WY[m_j^i_cfb[ iohkf$Ifh[WZ\ekh#Ä\j^ie\j^[Äbb_d]edjef$8hki^j^[ jefikh\WY[e\j^[ej^[hYWa[m_j^i_cfb[iohkfoekm_bb ^Wl[WXekj^Wb\b[\jel[h WdZfbWY[_j"iohkfi_Z[Zemd" el[h j^[ Äbb_d]$ Ifh[WZ j^[ h[cW_d_d] Äbb_d] WhekdZ j^[ i_Z[iXkjdejj^[jefjecWa[j^[_dZ[dj[Zikh\WY[Wi [l[dWifeii_Xb[$ Je]bWp[0Fekhj^[c[bj[ZWfh_Yej`Wcel[hj^[YWa[" WdZifh[WZel[hj^[jefWdZi_Z[i$B[ji[j\eh'^ekh"eh kdj_bj^[`Wc\[[biib_]^jbojWYaohWj^[hj^Wdij_Yao$C[bj j^[Y^eYebWj[el[h^ejmWj[heh_dWc_YhemWl["WdZij_h _d j^[ YWdebW e_b$ IjWhj_d] Wj j^[ Y[dj[h" fekh el[h j^[ YWa["WdZ_cc[Z_Wj[boj_bj_j][djbojeed[i_Z[WdZj^[d j^[ej^[hje^[bfj^[]bWp[\WbbZemdj^[i_Z[i$Ifh[WZ j^[Y^eYebWj[[l[dboel[hj^[i_Z[i"XkjjhodejjeZ_ijkhX j^[ jef Wi j^_i YekbZ cWh j^[ i^[[d$ B[j ijWdZ Wj Yeeb heecj[cf[hWjkh[kdj_bj^[Y^eYebWj[]bWp[^WhZ[dieh h[\h_][hWj[Xh_[Åo"WdZjhWdi\[hj^[YWa[jeWÅWjfbWjj[h$ H[\h_][hWj[j^[[njhWi_cfb[iohkfWdZki[m_j^_d)eh*ZWoi\eh feWY^_d]\hk_j$

glaze DVQBQSJDPUKBN NFMUFEBOETJFWFE PVODFTUP EBSLDIPDPMBUF DIPQQFE UBCMFTQPPOTDBOPMBPJM

N

4FSWFT

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a`

195

PU\P\YNaR zPYNV_`

DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQUBQJPDBTUBSDI

UFBTQPPOTVHBS UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS DVUVQ 1JODIPG¹OFTFBTBMU MBSHFFHHT DVQIFBWZDSFBN UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB FYUSBDU UBCMFTQPPOT DPOGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS PVODFTUP EBSLDIPDPMBUF DVUVQ UFBTQPPOTDBOPMBPJM N

'/,

.BLFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

" .*9 5 63& 0' #308 / rice ﬂour and tapioca starch makes this pâte à choux—the eggy pastry dough used to make éclairs and cream puffs—particularly light and tender. You’ll need a pastry/decorating bag for squeezing out the long, narrow shapes.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje*&&<$B_d[WbWh][XWa_d]i^[[j m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ I_\jj^[h_Y[Åekh"jWf_eYWijWhY^"WdZik]Whje][j^[h" WdZi[jWi_Z[$9ecX_d[j^[Xkjj[h"iWbj"WdZ'À(YkfmWj[h _dWicWbbiWkY[fWdel[hc[Z_kc^[Wj$8h_d]`kijjeW Xe_b"h[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj"WdZWZZj^[Åekhc_njkh[Wbb WjedY[$FbWY[j^[fWdel[hbem^[Wj"WdZij_h^WhZm_j^ WmeeZ[difeedkdj_bj^[c_njkh[Zh_[iekjWb_jjb[WdZ \ehciWXWbb"WXekj'c_dkj[$H[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj$8[Wj _dj^[[]]i"ed[WjWj_c[j^[c_njkh[m_bbbeeabkcfoWj Ähij"Xkjf[hi[l[h["kdj_bj^[fWij[_iiceej^WdZ`kij ^ebZi _ji i^Wf[" WXekj ( c_dkj[i$ JhWdi\[h je W fWijho XW]Äjj[Zm_j^W'#_dY^j_f"WdZf_f[ekjjm[bl[)'À(#_dY^ Äd][hi$8Wa[\eh'+c_dkj[i"j^[dh[ZkY[j^[^[Wjje)-+<" WdZXWa[\eh W \khj^[h '+ c_dkj[i$B[j Yeeb ed W m_h[hWYa$

8[Wjj^[Yh[Wckdj_b_jijWhjijeij_\\[d"j^[dWZZj^[ lWd_bbW"WdZi_\jj^[Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]Whedjef$9edj_dk[ X[Wj_d]kdj_bie\jf[Wai\ehc$ 9ecX_d[j^[Y^eYebWj[WdZYWdebWe_b"WdZc[bjel[h ^ejmWj[h$Ij_hjecWa[Wiceej^c_njkh[$ Ib_j j^[ YbW_hi ^eh_pedjWbbo" WdZ Yel[h j^[ Xejjec ^Wbl[i m_j^ m^_ff[Z Yh[Wc$ :_f j^[ hekdZ[Z i_Z[ e\ j^[ jefi _d j^[ Y^eYebWj[" WdZ fbWY[ el[h j^[ Yh[Wc$ H[\h_][hWj[kdj_bi[hl_d]j_c[$

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a`

197

NYZ\[Q N[Q YRZ\[ PNXR

DVQTBMNPOENFBM PS DVQT PVODFT XIPMFBMNPOET UBCMFTQPPOT DPSOTUBSDI UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS MBSHFFHHT DVQTVHBS (SBUFE[FTUPGMFNPO DVQTDPOGFDUJPOFST± TVHBS UPUBCMFTQPPOT MFNPOKVJDF

N

'/.

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

*/ 5)*4 & 9 53 " - *() 5 $ " ,& high-protein ground almonds replace the anonymous white fat and white ﬂour found in most bakery items. The simple lemon glaze makes a tangy texture contrast, but if you prefer, you can dust the top with confectioners’ sugar.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ 8kjj[h j^[ i_Z[i e\ W /#_dY^hekdZYWa[fWd"WdZb_d[j^[XWi[m_j^WY_hYb[e\ fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ WbcedZ c[Wb" YehdijWhY^" WdZ XWa_d] femZ[h"WdZi[jWi_Z[$?\ki_d]m^eb[WbcedZi"]h_dZ_d XWjY^[i_dWd[b[Yjh_YYe\\[[c_bb\ehWÅekhoj[njkh[$ 8[Wj j^[ []]i b_]^jbo je YecX_d[" j^[d X[Wj _d j^[ ik]Wh b_jjb[ Xo b_jjb[$ 8[Wj Wj c[Z_kc#^_]^ if[[Z kdj_b j^[c_njkh[h[WY^[ij^[h_XXedijW]["WXekj-c_dkj[i$ Ifh_dab[j^[b[cedp[ijedjef"WdZ\ebZ_dj^[WbcedZ c_njkh[" ed[#j^_hZ Wj W j_c[$ JhWdi\[h j^[ XWjj[h je j^[ fWdWdZiceej^j^[jef$ 8Wa[kdj_bj^[YWa[_i]ebZ[dWdZi^h_daiWmWoib_]^jbo \hec j^[ i_Z[i e\ j^[ fWd" WdZ Wd _di[hj[Z jeej^f_Ya [c[h][i Yb[Wd" WXekj )& c_dkj[i$ B[j Yeeb _d j^[ fWd \eh+c_dkj[i$HkdWad_\[XbWZ[WhekdZj^[[Z][e\j^[ YWa[jebeei[d_j"j^[djkhd_jekjedjeWm_h[hWYa$F[[b e\\j^[fWf[h"WdZb[jYeebkfi_Z[Zemd"iceej^[iji_Z[ kff[hceij$

FbWY[ j^[ YWa[ ed W i^[[j e\ Wbkc_dkc \e_b$ I_\j j^[ Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ ik]Wh _dje W Xemb$ 7ZZ j^[ b[ced `k_Y[" WdZX[Wjkdj_biceej^"'c_dkj[ehb[ii$Fekhel[hj^[ YWa[" WdZ iceej^ _dje W j^_d bWo[h m_j^ W bed] ad_\[ XbWZ["b[jj_d]j^[[nY[iiZh_fel[hj^[i_Z[i$B[jj^[YWa[ ijWdZkdj_bj^[]bWp[^Wii[j"WXekj'^ekh$JhWdi\[hjeW ÅWji[hl_d]fbWj[$

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a`

199

NZN_Raa\ PNXR

DVQ PVODFT

BMNPOET DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI

UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS UBCMFTQPPOTVOTBMUFE CVUUFS TPGUFOFE DVQTVHBS MBSHFFHHT UBCMFTQPPOBNBSFUUP MJRVFVS $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS

N

(&&

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

5)*4 -6963*064 "-.0/% $ " ,& ﬂavored with almond liqueur will delight marzipan fans. It goes especially well with poached dried apricots.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ 8kjj[h j^[ i_Z[i e\ Wd .#_dY^hekdZYWa[fWd"WdZb_d[j^[XWi[m_j^WY_hYb[e\ fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ WbcedZi" h_Y[ Åekh" YehdijWhY^" WdZ XWa_d]femZ[h_dW\eeZfheY[iieh"WdZ]h_dZjeWÄd[ c[Wb$ FbWY[j^[Xkjj[hWdZik]Wh_dWbWh][Xemb$Ki_d]Wd [b[Yjh_Yc_n[h"X[Wjkdj_bb_]^jWdZÅk\\o$=hWZkWbboX[Wj _dj^[[]]i"WdZWZZj^[WcWh[jje$<ebZ_dj^[WbcedZ# Åekhc_njkh[_djmeXWjY^[i$JhWdi\[hj^[XWjj[hjej^[ YWa[fWd$ 8Wa[ kdj_b j^[ YWa[ _i ]ebZ[d" i^h_dai WmWo ib_]^jbo \hec j^[ [Z][ e\ j^[ fWd" WdZ \[[bi ifh_d]o je W b_]^j Äd][h jekY^" (+ je )& c_dkj[i$ B[j Yeeb _d j^[ fWd \eh (c_dkj[i"j^[dhkdWad_\[XbWZ[WhekdZj^[[Z][e\j^[ YWa[jebeei[d_j$?dl[hjedjeWm_h[hWYa"WdZf[[be\\j^[ fWf[h$B[jYeebYecfb[j[bo$BWoWi[YedZm_h[hWYael[h j^[YWa[$:kij][d[hekibom_j^Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]Wh"j^[d b_\je\\j^[hWYa"b[Wl_d]Wh[l[hi[fWjj[hd$

dNY[ba²\YVcR \VY `]\[TR PNXR 5)*4 -*()5 %&-*$ "5& $ ",& is manna from heaven for people who have problems with high cholesterol; they can’t believe it contains no butter and no egg yolks. And no wheat ﬂour, of course. Be sure to use a very mild-ﬂavored, buttery-tasting, estate-grown olive oil—L’Estornel and Pons from Spain are both excellent, and marry well with the orange zest and sherry ﬂavorings.

Fh[^[Wjj^[el[dje)+&<$=h[Wi[j^[i_Z[ie\W/#_dY^ hekdZ YWa[ fWd b_]^jbo m_j^ eb_l[ e_b" WdZ b_d[ j^[ XWi[ m_j^WY_hYb[e\fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ HeWijj^[mWbdkjikdj_b`kijijWhj_d]jeic[bb\hW]hWdj" + c_dkj[i" WdZ Y^ef Äd[bo$ 9ecX_d[ j^[ h_Y[ Åekh" YehdijWhY^"XWa_d]femZ[h"WdZiWbj"WdZh[i[hl[$ 8[Wj j^[ ;]]X[Wj[hi WdZ ik]Wh je j^[ h_XXed ijW][" WXekj ) c_dkj[i$ Fekh j^[ eb_l[ e_b WdZ i^[hho WhekdZ j^[ [Z][ e\ j^[ Xemb" WdZ \ebZ _d$ H[cel[ j^[ p[ij \hec j^[ ehWd][ h_]^j el[h j^[ Xemb m_j^ W p[ij[h" ie Wi dej je bei[ Wdo e\ j^[ WhecWj_Ye_b$IWl[j^[\hk_j \ehWdej^[hki[$

DVQ PVODFT

XBMOVUT DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI UFBTQPPOTCBLJOH QPXEFS UFBTQPPO¹OFTFBTBMU DVQ&HHCFBUFST PSPUIFSMJRVJEFHH TVCTUJUVUF DVQTVHBS DVQNJME FYUSBWJSHJO PMJWFPJM DVQNFEJVNESZ "NPOUJMMBEP 4QBOJTI TIFSSZ ;FTUPGPSBOHF $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS N

4FSWFT

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a`

201

I_\jj^[Åekhc_njkh[el[hj^[XWjj[h"WdZ\ebZ_d$<ebZ _dj^[mWbdkji$Ifeedj^[XWjj[h_djej^[fWd"WdZXWa[ kdj_b Wd _di[hj[Z jeej^f_Ya Yec[i ekj Yb[Wd" WXekj )& c_dkj[i$:edejel[hXWa["Wij^_imekbZcWa[j^[YWa[ Zho$B[jijWdZ\eh'&c_dkj[i"j^[djkhdekjedjeWYeeb_d] hWYa$F[[be\\j^[fWf[h"jkhdj^[YWa[h_]^ji_Z[kf"WdZ WbbemjeYeebYecfb[j[bo$:kijm_j^Yed\[Yj_ed[hi¼ik]Wh X[\eh[i[hl_d]$

(&(

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

PN__\a T V[TR_ PNXR

"%&1"3563&'30.5)&usual carrot cake, this extra-light version lets the natural sweetness of almonds and carrots take center stage, with fresh ginger adding a grace note. A dollop of whipped cream with each slice is optional.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )+&<$ 8kjj[h j^[ i_Z[i e\ W /#_dY^hekdZYWa[fWd"WdZb_d[j^[XWi[m_j^WY_hYb[e\ fWhY^c[djfWf[h$ 9ecX_d[j^[YWhheji"]_d][h"WdZb[cedp[ijWdZ`k_Y[" WdZi[jWi_Z[$?dW\eeZfheY[iieh"YecX_d[j^[WbcedZi" h_Y[Åekh"WdZXWa_d]femZ[h"WdZfheY[iijeWÄd[c[Wb$ Ki_d]Wd[b[Yjh_Yc_n[h"X[Wjj^[[]]im_j^j^[ik]Wh kdj_b j^[ c_njkh[ h[WY^[i j^[ h_XXed ijW][" WXekj - c_dkj[i$
MBSHFDBSSPUT ¹OFMZ HSBUFE DVQT PVODFT

JODIQJFDFGSFTIHJOHFS HSBUFE +VJDFBOENJODFE[FTUPG MFNPO DVQT PVODFT BMNPOET DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS UFBTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS MBSHFFHHT DVQTVHBS UBCMFTQPPOQJOFOVUT $POGFDUJPOFST±TVHBS -JHIUMZTXFFUFOFE XIJQQFEDSFBN PQUJPOBM N

4FSWFT

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a`

203

R[ T YV`U S _ bVaPNXR

UBCMFTQPPOT TUJDLT VOTBMUFECVUUFS TPGUFOFE DVQQBDLFEEBSL CSPXOTVHBS MBSHFFHHT UBCMFTQPPOT4FWJMMF PSBOHFNBSNBMBEF DVQCSPXOSJDFºPVS DVQDPSOTUBSDI UFBTQPPOYBOUIBOHVN UBCMFTQPPOCBLJOH QPXEFS DVQDIPQQFEXBMOVUT DVQESJFE;BOUF DVSSBOUT DVQEBSLSBJTJOT DVQZFMMPXSBJTJOT DVQESJFEDIFSSJFTPS DIPQQFEQSVOFT PSB NJYUVSFPGCPUI DVQDIPQQFEESJFE ¹HT UPUBCMFTQPPOTTMJDFE BMNPOET N

(&*

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

" 7&3: %*''&3&/ 5 ,*/% of fruitcake, this one resembles a round, low pound cake well studded with walnuts, ﬁgs, dried cherries, and what English cooks poetically call “vine fruits.” There’s no sweet and sticky candied stuff dyed the color of trafﬁc lights, and even the most suspicious ﬁnd they really like it.

Fh[^[Wj j^[ el[d je )(+<$ B_]^jbo Xkjj[h j^[ XWi[ WdZ i_Z[i e\ Wd .#_dY^ hekdZ YWa[ fWd" WdZ b_d[m_j^fWhY^c[djfWf[h"b[jj_d]j^[YebbWh[nj[dZ '_dY^WXel[j^[h_c$J^[Xkjj[h^ebZij^[fWf[h_d fbWY[$ 9h[Wc j^[ Xkjj[h" WdZ X[Wj _d j^[ Xhemd ik]Wh" []]i" WdZ cWhcWbWZ[$ 8[Wj _d j^[ h_Y[ \bekh" YehdijWhY^" nWdj^Wd ]kc" WdZ XWa_d] femZ[h je cWa[Wiceej^c_njkh[$Ij_h_dj^[mWbdkji"YkhhWdji" ZWha WdZ o[bbem hW_i_di" Y^[hh_[i" WdZ \_]i$ JhWdi\[h jej^[fWd"WdZiceej^j^[jef"cekdZ_d]_jkfW b_jjb[$Ifh_dab[m_j^j^[ib_Y[ZWbcedZi$8Wa[kdj_b \_hc" WXekj ' ^ekh" (&c_dkj[i$?\j^[ jefijWhjijeXhemd jee gk_Yabo" Yel[h b_]^jbo m_j^ W i^[[j e\ Wbkc_dkc \e_b$

7jeej^f_Ya_di[hj[Zd[Whj^[Y[dj[hi^ekbZ[c[h][ Yb[Wd$ B[Wl[ _d j^[ fWd \eh '& c_dkj[i" j^[d jkhd ekjedjeWm_h[hWYa$F[[be\\j^[fWf[hWdZb[jYeeb Yecfb[j[bo"h_]^ji_Z[kf$

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a`

205

S _R[PU PU\P\YNaR Z\b``R

PVODFTUP EBSLDIPDPMBUF ¹OFMZ DIPQQFE UBCMFTQPPOVOTBMUFE CVUUFS DVUVQ DVQ&HHCFBUFST PSPUIFSMJRVJEFHH TVCTUJUVUF DVQTVHBS UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB FYUSBDU UBCMFTQPPOCSBOEZ 3JDF'MPVS7BOJMMB 8BGFST QBHF

N

(&,

4FSWFT

j^[m^[Wj#\ h[[Yeea

4.0 05) 3*$) "/% 4*-, : this luscious dessert pairs beautifully with crisp vanilla wafers. As a classic French chocolate mousse is made with raw eggs, I tinkered with tradition because I don’t fancy the idea of salmonella poisoning. Happily for us, Eggbeaters (and similar liquid egg substitutes), which are made from 99 percent egg whites, are sterilized and perfectly safe to eat. Serve with the Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers on page 164.

FbWY[ j^[ Y^eYebWj[ _d W icWbb Xemb" WdZ c[bj el[h ^ejmWj[h$H[cel[\hecj^[^[Wj"WZZj^[Xkjj[h"WdZij_h kdj_biceej^$B[jYeebjebka[mWhc$ 8[Wjj^[;]]X[Wj[hikdj_bib_]^jboj^_Ya[d[Z"WZZj^[ ik]Wh" WdZ X[Wj kdj_b j^_Ya WdZ b_]^j" WXekj ( c_dkj[i$ 8[Wj_dj^[lWd_bbWWdZXhWdZo$Fekh'Ykfe\j^[c_njkh[ el[hj^[Y^eYebWj["WdZX[Wj_d$7ZZj^[Y^eYebWj[#[]] c_njkh[ je j^[ h[cW_d_d] ;]]X[Wj[hi WdZ X[Wj Xh_[Åo jeYecX_d[$Ifeed_djei_n 'À(#YkfhWc[a_di"Yel[hm_j^ fbWij_YmhWf"WdZY^_bb\eh(je)^ekhiehel[hd_]^j$Je i[hl["fbWY[[WY^hWc[a_dedWicWbbfbWj[WdZWhhWd][ jmelWd_bbWmW\[hieded[i_Z[$

^bVPX ZN[T\ `\_ORa

'30;&/ 3*1& . " /(0 $)6/, 4 become amazingly rich and creamy when pulverized in a food processor, and turn into a kind of sin-free ice cream. This sorbet is at its best when just made, but can be stored in the freezer. (Cover the surface with plastic wrap to prevent ice crystals from forming.) Frozen mango chunks are available at most natural foods stores, Trader Joe’s, and some supermarkets. Serve with the Pine Nut Wafers on page 165.

:hef j^[ \hep[d cWd]e Y^kdai _dje W \eeZ fheY[iieh" cWa_d]ikh[j^WjWbbj^[Y^kdaiWh[i[fWhWj[Z$7ZZj^[ ik]WhWdZlWd_bbW"WdZfheY[iikdj_bl[hoÄd[bo]hekdZ" iYhWf_d]j^[XembZemdi[l[hWbj_c[i$7ZZj^[oe]khj" WdZ fheY[ii Xh_[Åo kdj_b iceej^$ Ifeed _dje Z[ii[hj Z_i^[i"WdZWd]b[Wf_d[dkjmW\[hed[WY^i_Z[$I[hl[ _cc[Z_Wj[bo$

PVODFTGSP[FONBOHP DIVOLT UBCMFTQPPOTTVHBS UFBTQPPOWBOJMMB FYUSBDU UBCMFTQPPOTQMBJO XIPMFNJMLZPHVSU

N

. BLFTBQQSPYJNBUFMZ QJOUTFSWFT

PNXR` N[Q QR``R_ a`

207

TYbaR[ V[a\YR_N[PR V[S\_ZNaV\[_R`\b_PR`

;.A6<;.9 @B==
Celiac Disease Foundation 13251 Ventura Boulevard, Suite 1 Studio City, CA 91604 Telephone: 818.990.2354 e-mail: [email protected] www.celiac.org Celiac Sprue Association (CSA/USA) P.O. Box 31700 Omaha, NE 68131 Telephone: 877.CSA.4CSA e-mail: [email protected] www.csaceliacs.org Gluten Intolerance Group of North America (GIG) 31214 124th Avenue SE Auburn, WA 98092-3667 Telephone: 253.833.6655 e-mail: [email protected] www.gluten.net Canadian Celiac Association 5170 Dixie Road, Suite 204 Mississauga, ON L4W 1E3

(&/

Telephone: 800.363.7296 www.celiac.ca
Celiac Disease: A Hidden Epidemic, by Peter H. R. Green, M.D., Director of the Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University and Rory Jones (Collins, 2006). The ﬁrst authoritative guide on diagnosis, treatment, and management of celiac disease. Essential reading for both patients and the medical community, this is a readable guide to understanding and coping with a serious condition that has been little known until now. Gluten-Free Living P.O. Box 375 Maple Shade, NJ 08052 Telephone: 800.324.8781 www.glutenfreeliving.com A national, full-color magazine with reliable, well-researched information and articles relating to living well with celiac disease. The Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University 212.305.5590 http://www.celiacdiseasecenter.columbia.edu The Celiac Center at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center 617.667.1272 www.bidmc.harvard.edu The University of Maryland Center for Celiac Research 410.328.6749 or 800.492.5538 http://celiaccenter.org The University of Chicago Celiac Disease Center 773.702.7593 www.celiacdisease.net

('&

TYbaR[ V[a\YR_N[PR V[S\_ZNaV\[_R`\b_PR`

ZNVY \ _QR_ `b]]YVR_` \S TYbaR[ S _RR SY\b_` T_NV[` [ba` N[Q \aUR_ T_\PR_VR`

Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods 5000 SE International Way Milwaukie, OR 97222 Telephone: 800.349.2173 www.bobsredmill.com Cream Hill Estates 9633 rue Clément H8R 4B4 La Salle, Quebec, Canada (gluten-free oats) Telephone: 866.727.3628 www.creamhillestates.com e-mail: [email protected] Empire Chestnut Company 3276 Empire Road SW Carrollton, OH 44615-9515 www.empirechestnut.com Ener- G Foods 5960 First Avenue South P.O. Box 84487 Seattle, WA 98124-5787

(''

www.ener-g.com Telephone: 800.331.5222 e-mail: [email protected] Gluten-Free Oats Company 578 Lane 9 Powell, WY 82435 Telephone: 307.754.2058 www.glutenfreeoats.com King Arthur Flour Company The Baker’s Store 135 Route 5 South Norwich, VT 05055 Telephone: 800.827.6836 www.kingarthurﬂour.com The Teff Company Telephone toll-free: 888.822.2221 e-mail: [email protected] www.teffco.com

('(

cW_b#ehZ[hikffb_[hie\]bkj[d#\ h[[\bekhi"]hW_di"dkji"WdZej^[h]heY[h_[i

ZRa_VP P\[cR_`V\[`

American home cooks generally work with cups and tablespoons, ounces and pounds. The following metric equivalents will hopefully be of help to those who are not familiar with our system and conversely, assist American cooks who wish to convert a recipe that originated in another part of the world. Remember that the weight of dry ingredients varies according to the volume or density factor: 1 cup of rice ﬂour weighs far less than 1 cup of sugar. HHSBN LHLJMPHSBN N-NJMJMJUFS -MJUFS DNDFOUJNFUFS UFBTQPPO¬H UBCMFTQPPO¬H UBCMFTQPPOTPVODFBQQSPYH DVQPVODFTBQQSPYH PSNDVQPVODFTBQQSPYH PSNDVQTQPVOEQJOUBQQSPYH PSQJOUTRVBSUQPVOETLH -JOFBS.FBTVSFNFOUT JODIDN JODIDN

(')

JODIFTDN JODIFTDN JODIFTDN JODIFTDN JODIFTDN 0WFO5FNQFSBUVSFT 'BISFOIFJUBOE$FMTJVT '$ '$ '$ '$ '$ '$ '$

('*

c[jh_YYedl[hi_edi

V[QRe N Almond(s) almond ﬂour, about, 8 almond meal, about, 8 Amaretto Cake, 200 Carrot-Ginger Cake, 203 Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Jam Sandwich Cookies, 156–57 and Lemon Cake, 198–99 Nut Crumb Crust, 176 -Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33 -Raspberry Tart, 174 Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Amaranth, about, 8 Amaretto Cake, 200 Appetizers and ﬁrst courses Chicken and Chestnut Soup, 99–100 Corn Fritters, 49 Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43 Parmesan Puffs, 40–41 Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Zucchini Fritters, 50 Apple(s) Crumble, Spiced, 28–29

Pie with a Rich Cornmeal Crust, 185–86 Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Arrowroot starch, about, 9 Arugula and Goat Cheese, Rice Fettuccine with, 70 Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and Asparagus, 79–80 Asparagus and Pork, Asian Stick Noodles with, 79–80 Rice Spirals with, 71

O Bacon Millet, and Mushroom Risotto, 56 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Baguettes Flaxseed and Chickpea, Quick, 144 Rice Flour, 138–39 Beans. See Chickpea(s); Lentil(s) Beef Braised Oxtail with Mushrooms, 121–22 Braised Short Ribs with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, 119–20 Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Ragù, 73–74

('-

Bran, Rice, and Raisin Mufﬁns, 24 Breads, 129–47 Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Cornmeal and Sun-Dried Tomato Loaf, 147 Crumbs, Rice Flour, 134 Flaxmeal Skillet, 143 Goat Cheese Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137 lining baking sheet for, 132 Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Quick Brown Rice Flour Flatbread, 131 Quick Flaxseed and Chickpea Baguette, 144 Quick White Rice Flour Flatbread, 133–34 Rice Bran and Raisin Mufﬁns, 24 Rice Flour Baguettes, 138–39 Rice Flour English Mufﬁns, 135–36 Rice Flour Focaccia, 137 Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145 Breakfast dishes, 19–33 Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Rice Bran and Raisin Mufﬁns, 24 Rice Flour Crêpes, 22 Spiced Apple Crumble, 28–29 Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Yogurt–Rice Flour Pancakes, 21 Brownies, Teff, 158 Buckwheat buckwheat ﬂour, about, 9 Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41 Spaetzle, 81–82 whole (groats), about, 9 Burgers, Ostrich, with Red Wine Sauce, 109

('.

_dZ[n

P Cakes Almond and Lemon, 198–99 Amaretto, 200 best cake pans for, 190 Carrot-Ginger, 203 Chocolate, Extra-Light, 193 Chocolate-Glazed Chestnut Gateau, 194–95 Chocolate-Hazelnut Trufﬂe, 191 Chocolate-Walnut, Four-Ingredient, 189–90 Coffee, Almond-Plum Rice Flour, 32–33 cooling, on cake racks, 195 English Fruitcake, 204–5 Walnut–Olive Oil Sponge, 201–2 Cannelloni, Rice Flour, Gratinéed, 73–74 Capon, Roast, with Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 103–4 Carrot(s) Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92 -Ginger Cake, 203 Celery, peeling, 100 Celiac disease diagnosis of, 3 dining out with, 3–4 gluten-free shopping guidelines, 4–6 health risks from, 2–3 skin conditions related to, 2–3 Cereal. See Muesli Cheddar Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72 Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Cheese Corn Macaroni and, 72 and Cornmeal Shortbread, 146

Cream, –Strawberry Tart, 177 ﬁrm, storing, 43 Goat, and Arugula, Rice Fettuccine with, 70 Goat, and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Goat, Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137 Hazelnut and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets, 85–86 Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43 Parmesan Puffs, 40–41 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Ricotta Tart, 180–81 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufﬂé, 45–46 Zucchini Fritters, 50 Cherries English Fruitcake, 204–5 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175 Chestnut(s) chestnut ﬂour, about, 9 and Chicken Soup, 99–100 Gateau, Chocolate-Glazed, 194–95 purée, buying, 102 and Sausage Dressing, 105 whole, about, 9–10 whole, buying, 102 whole, peeling, 102 Chicken breasts, grinding at home, 90 breasts, slicing horizontally, 85–86 with Celery and Tarragon, 98 in Chardonnay, 87–88 and Chestnut Soup, 99–100 Cutlets, Hazelnut and Parmesan, 85–86 Ground, Roll with Quinoa, 89–90 Legs, Lemon-Parsley, 96–97

Livers, Risotto with, 60–61 with Mushroom Stufﬁng, 94–95 and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92 Roast Capon with Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 103–4 Chickpea(s) chickpea ﬂour, about, 10 Creamy Tomato and Egg Curry, 37 and Flaxseed Baguette, Quick, 144 Lentils with, 51 in Middle Eastern dishes, 10 Chocolate about, 10 Cake, Extra-Light, 193 Chip–Peanut Butter Cookies, 151 cocoa powder, about, 11 dark, imported, substitute for, 192 Éclairs, 196–97 -Glazed Chestnut Gateau, 194–95 -Hazelnut Trufﬂe Cake, 191 Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154 Mousse, French, 206 –Pine Nut Meringue Cookies, 152 Teff Brownies, 158 types of, 10 -Walnut Cake, Four-Ingredient, 189–90 Cocoa powder Dutch-processed, about, 11 natural, about, 11 Coffee Cake, Almond-Plum Rice Flour, 32–33 Cookies and bars, 149–65 Almond Jam Sandwich Cookies, 156–57 Chocolate–Pine Nut Meringue Cookies, 152 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26

_dZ[n

('/

Cookies and bars (continued) Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Hazelnut-Raspberry Cookies, 155 Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154 lining baking sheet for, 132 Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 Pecan-Espresso Cookies, 153 Pine Nut Wafers, 165 Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63 Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers, 164 Teff Brownies, 158 Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161 Corn. See also Cornmeal about, 11 Fritters, 49 Macaroni and Cheese, 72 Cornmeal about, 11 and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Flatbread, Yeast-Raised, 145 Piecrust, Rich, 184 and Sun-Dried Tomato Loaf, 147 Cornstarch, about, 11 Cream Cheese–Strawberry Tart, 177 Crêpes, Rice Flour, 22 Crust, Nut Crumb, 176 Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, Quinoa Salad with, 55 Currants English Fruitcake, 204–5 Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 and Hazelnuts, Millet Pilaf with, 57 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175 Rice, and Pine Nuts, Grape Leaf Rolls with, 62–63 Curry, Tomato and Egg, Creamy, 37

((&

_dZ[n

Q Dates, Teff Gingerbread with, 161 Desserts Almond and Lemon Cake, 198–99 Almond Jam Sandwich Cookies, 156–57 Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33 Almond-Raspberry Tart, 174 Amaretto Cake, 200 Apple Pie with a Rich Cornmeal Crust, 185–86 Carrot-Ginger Cake, 203 Chocolate Éclairs, 196–97 Chocolate-Glazed Chestnut Gateau, 194–95 Chocolate-Hazelnut Trufﬂe Cake, 191 Chocolate–Pine Nut Meringue Cookies, 152 English Fruitcake, 204–5 Extra-Light Chocolate Cake, 193 Four-Ingredient Chocolate-Walnut Cake, 189–90 French Chocolate Mousse, 206 Hazelnut-Raspberry Cookies, 155 Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154 Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 Pecan-Espresso Cookies, 153 Pecan Tart, 172 Pine Nut Wafers, 165 Quick Mango Sorbet, 207 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175 Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63 Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers, 164 Ricotta Tart, 180–81 Spiced Apple Crumble, 28–29

Strawberry–Cream Cheese Tart, 177 Teff Brownies, 158 Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161 Walnut–Olive Oil Sponge Cake, 201–2 Dressing, Sausage and Chestnut, 105 Dumplings. See Spaetzle

R Éclairs, Chocolate, 196–97 Egg(s) Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Hard-Boiled, Perfectly Cooked, 38 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufﬂé, 45–46 and Tomato Curry, Creamy, 37 English Mufﬁns, Rice Flour, 135–36 Espresso-Pecan Cookies, 153

S Fennel, Rice Pilaf with, 64 Fettuccine, Rice, with Arugula and Goat Cheese, 70 Fig(s) English Fruitcake, 204–5 -Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 Fish and shellﬁsh Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper Sauce, 128 Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124

Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Flaxseed(s) about, 11–12, 142 and Chickpea Baguette, Quick, 144 ﬂaxmeal, buying, 12, 142 Flaxmeal Skillet Bread, 143 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 grinding, for ﬂaxmeal, 12, 142 health beneﬁts from, 11–12, 142 Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41 storing, 12, 142 Flour, gluten-free. See also speciﬁc ﬂour types almond, about, 8 Asian rice ﬂour (starch), about, 15 brown rice, about, 9 buckwheat, about, 9 buying and storing, 7 chestnut, about, 9 chickpea, about, 10 garfava, about, 10 grinding your own, 8 lentil, about, 12 millet, about, 13 montina, about, 13 nut, about, 13 oat, about, 13–14 potato, about, 14 quinoa, about, 14 soy, about, 15 sweet rice (starch), about, 16 teff, about, 16 white rice, about, 9

_dZ[n

(('

Focaccia, Rice Flour, 137 Frittata, Spinach and Zucchini, 44 Fritters Corn, 49 Zucchini, 50 Fruitcake, English, 204–5

Gruyère -Onion Tart, 42–43 Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufﬂé, 45–46

U T Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Garbanzo ﬂour, about, 10 Garfava ﬂour, about, 10 Gingerbread, Teff, with Dates, 161 Gingerbread Cows, Rice Flour, 162–63 Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Gluten-free shopping, 4–5 foods “maybe” permitted, 5–6 foods not permitted, 6 foods permitted, 4–5 Goat Cheese and Arugula, Rice Fettuccine with, 70 Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137 and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Grains. See also Buckwheat; Millet; Quinoa; Rice; Teff amaranth, about, 8 montina/montina ﬂour, about, 13 oats and oat ﬂour, about, 13–14 sorghum (milo), about, 15 Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and Pine Nuts, 62–63 Gratin, Halibut, Tomato, and Caper, with Quinoa, 124 Grocery shopping. See Gluten-free shopping

(((

_dZ[n

Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26 Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124 Ham Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Harissa Sauce, 92 Hazelnut(s) -Chocolate Trufﬂe Cake, 191 and Currants, Millet Pilaf with, 57 and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets, 85–86 -Raspberry Cookies, 155 Zebra Cookies, 154 Herbes de Provence Blend, 101 Honeyed Yogurt, 29

X Kasha (groats), about, 9

Y Lamb, Rack of, with Herbed Crumb Crust, 117–18 Lemon and Almond Cake, 198–99 Lemon-Parsley Chicken Legs, 96–97 Lentil(s) with Chickpeas, 51 lentil ﬂour, about, 12 varieties of, 12 Livers, Chicken, Risotto with, 60–61

Z Macaroni, Corn, and Cheese, 72 Main dishes (grains) Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and Pine Nuts, 62–63 Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Main dishes (meat) Braised Oxtail with Mushrooms, 121–22 Braised Short Ribs with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, 119–20 English Pork Sausage Patties, 115 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Pork Chops and Baked Polenta with Peppers, 113–14 Rack of Lamb with Herbed Crumb Crust, 117–18 Main dishes (pasta) Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and Asparagus, 79–80 Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72 Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74 Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat Cheese, 70 Rice Pappardelle with Mushroom Sauce, 77–78 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71 Main dishes (poultry) Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92 Chicken in Chardonnay, 87–88 Chicken with Celery and Tarragon, 98

Chicken with Mushroom Stufﬁng, 94–95 Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa, 89–90 Hazelnut and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets, 85–86 Lemon-Parsley Chicken Legs, 96–97 Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109 Roast Capon with Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 103–4 Main dishes (seafood) Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper Sauce, 128 Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124 Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Main dishes (vegetarian) Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72 Creamy Tomato and Egg Curry, 37 Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and Pine Nuts, 62–63 Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat Cheese, 70 Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufﬂé, 45–46 Mango Sorbet, Quick, 207 Manioc ﬂour. See Tapioca starch

_dZ[n

(()

Meat. See Beef; Lamb; Pork; Veal Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Meringue Cookies, Chocolate–Pine Nut, 152 Millet millet ﬂour, about, 13 Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Pilaf with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57 serving ideas, 13 Modiﬁed food starch, 5 Molasses Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27 Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63 Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161 Montina/montina ﬂour, about, 13 Mousse, French Chocolate, 206 Muesli, Toasted Quinoa, 25 Mufﬁns Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Rice Bran and Raisin, 24 Mushroom(s) Braised Oxtail with, 121–22 Chicken in Chardonnay, 87–88 Millet, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Sauce, Rice Pappardelle with, 77–78 Stufﬁng, Chicken with, 94–95 Mustard and Caper Sauce, 123

[ Noodles, Asian Stick, with Pork and Asparagus, 79–80 Nut(s). See also Almond(s); Chestnut(s); Hazelnut(s); Pecan(s); Walnut(s) buying and storing, 7 ground, for baked goods, 13 health beneﬁts from, 13 nut ﬂours, about, 13

((*

_dZ[n

Pine, –Chocolate Meringue Cookies, 152 Pine, Rice, and Currants, Grape Leaf Rolls with, 62–63 Pine, Wafers, 165

\ Oats and oat ﬂour, about, 13–14 Omelet, Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced, 39 Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43 Orange Peel, Candied, 182–83 Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109 Oxtail, Braised, with Mushrooms, 121–22

] Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Pancakes Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146 Yogurt–Rice Flour, 21 Pancetta Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Pappardelle, Rice, with Mushroom Sauce, 77–78 Parchment paper, for baking sheets, 132 Parmesan and Hazelnut Chicken Cutlets, 85–86 Puffs, 40–41 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 and Sun-Dried Tomato Soufﬂé, 45–46 Zucchini Fritters, 50 Pasta, 67–82 Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and Asparagus, 79–80 Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72

Fresh Rice Flour Egg, 75–76 gluten-free, types of, 5 Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat Cheese, 70 Rice Pappardelle with Mushroom Sauce, 77–78 Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69 Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71 Pasta Frolla, Rice Flour, 179 Pastry dough Rice Flour Pasta Frolla, 179 Rice Flour Tart Shell, 169–71 Rich Cornmeal Piecrust, 184 Peanut Butter –Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 –Teff Fudge Cookies, 160 Pecan(s) -Espresso Cookies, 153 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Tart, 172 Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25 Peppers bell, broiling and peeling, 53 Pork Chops and Baked Polenta with, 113–14 Red, Quinoa Pilaf with, 52 Pie, Apple, with a Rich Cornmeal Crust, 185–86 Piecrusts. See Crust; Pastry dough Pilaf Millet, with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57 Orange Rice, and Roasted Tomatoes, Game Hens with, 107–8

Quinoa, with Red Peppers, 52 Rice, with Fennel, 64 Pine Nut(s) –Chocolate Meringue Cookies, 152 Currants, and Rice, Grape Leaf Rolls with, 62–63 Wafers, 165 Pizza, Goat Cheese, with Rice Flour Crust, 137 Polenta, Baked, and Pork Chops with Peppers, 113–14 Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31 Pork. See also Bacon and Asparagus, Asian Stick Noodles with, 79–80 Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 105 Chops and Baked Polenta with Peppers, 113–14 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Sausage Patties, English, 115 Potato(es) and Goat Cheese Open-Faced Omelet, 39 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 potato ﬂour, about, 14 potato starch, about, 14 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Poultry, 83–109. See also Chicken Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8 Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109 Prunes Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33 English Fruitcake, 204–5 Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175

_dZ[n

((+

^ Quinoa about, 14, 54 buying, 54 and Chicken Moroccan Style, 91–92 cooking, 93 -Fig Breakfast Bars, 26 ﬂakes, about, 14, 54 Ground Chicken Roll with, 89–90 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with, 124 Meat Loaf with, 116 Pilaf with Red Peppers, 52 quinoa ﬂour, about, 14, 54 rinsing, 54 Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, 55 Toasted, Muesli, 25

_ Ragù Sauce, 73–74 Raisin(s) English Fruitcake, 204–5 and Rice Bran Mufﬁns, 24 -Walnut Tart, 175 Raspberry (jam) -Almond Tart, 174 -Hazelnut Cookies, 155 Rice. See also Rice Flour Bran and Raisin Mufﬁns, 24 Brown Basmati, Halibut in Foil with, 125–26 Currants, and Pine Nuts, Grape Leaf Rolls with, 62–63 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Pilaf, Orange, and Roasted Tomatoes, Game Hens with, 107–8

((,

_dZ[n

Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Saffron, Garlic Shrimp with, 127 varieties of, 14–15 wild, about, 16 Rice Flour Baguettes, 138–39 Bread Crumbs, 134 brown, about, 9, 23 brown, buying and storing, 23 Brown, Flatbread, Quick, 131 Crêpes, 22 Egg Pasta, Fresh, 75–76 English Mufﬁns, 135–36 Flaxmeal Skillet Bread, 143 Focaccia, 137 Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41 white, about, 9, 15 White, Flatbread, Quick, 133–34 Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145 –Yogurt Pancakes, 21 Rice ﬂour, Asian, about, 15 Rice ﬂour, sweet (starch), about, 16 Ricotta Tart, 180–81 Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61 Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon, 56 with Scallops, 58–59

` Salad, Quinoa, with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, 55 Salmon, Nut-Crusted, with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Sandwich Cookies, Almond Jam, 156–57

Sauces Harissa, 92 Mustard and Caper, 123 Ragù, 73–74 Sausage(s) and Chestnut Dressing, 105 Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66 Pork, Patties, English, 115 Scallops, Risotto with, 58–59 Seafood Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper Sauce, 128 Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124 Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26 Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce, 123 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Seed Bread, Rustic, 140–41 Shellﬁsh Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127 Risotto with Scallops, 58–59 Shortbread, Cornmeal and Cheese, 146 Shrimp, Garlic, with Saffron Rice, 127 Side dishes Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82 Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 105 Corn Fritters, 49 Lentils with Chickpeas, 51 Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56 Millet Pilaf with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57 Quinoa Pilaf with Red Peppers, 52 Quinoa Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, 55

Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64 Zucchini Fritters, 50 Sorbet, Quick Mango, 207 Sorghum (milo), about, 15 Soufﬂé, Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan, 45–46 Soup, Chicken and Chestnut, 99–100 Soy ﬂour, about, 15 Spaetzle, Buckwheat, 81–82 Spaghetti, Rice, alla Carbonara, 69 Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44 Squash. See Zucchini Strawberry–Cream Cheese Tart, 177

a Tapioca starch, about, 16 Tarts Almond-Raspberry, 174 Onion-Gruyère, 42–43 Pecan, 172 Raisin-Walnut, 175 Ricotta, 180–81 Strawberry–Cream Cheese, 177 unmolding, from tart or quiche pan, 173 Tart Shell(s) prebaked, troubleshooting, 171 prebaking, 170–71 Rice Flour, 169–71 Teff Brownies, 158 Gingerbread with Dates, 161 health beneﬁts from, 159 –Peanut Butter Fudge Cookies, 160 teff ﬂour, about, 16, 159 teff seeds, about, 16, 159

_dZ[n

((-

Tomato(es) Cucumber, and Mint, Quinoa Salad with, 55 and Egg Curry, Creamy, 37 Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74 Halibut, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124 Ragù, 73–74 Roasted, and Orange Rice Pilaf, Game Hens with, 107–8 Sun-Dried, and Cornmeal Loaf, 147 Sun-Dried, and Parmesan Soufﬂé, 45–46 Sun-Dried, Braised Short Ribs with, 119–20 Trout, Five-Minute, with Crispy Caper Sauce, 128

c Vanilla Wafers, Rice Flour, 164 Veal English Pork Sausage Patties, 115 Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116

d Walnut(s) -Chocolate Cake, Four-Ingredient, 189–90 English Fruitcake, 204–5 Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26

((.

_dZ[n

–Olive Oil Sponge Cake, 201–2 Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151 -Raisin Tart, 175 Teff Brownies, 158 Wax paper, for baking sheets, 132 Wheat allergies dining out with, 3–4 gluten-free shopping guidelines, 4–6 physical reactions to, 2 Wild rice, about, 16

f Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145 Yogurt Greek, about, 177–78 Greek, making at home, 178 Honeyed, 29 –Rice Flour Pancakes, 21

g Zanthan gum, 17 Zucchini Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92 Fritters, 50 Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa, 89–90 and Spinach Frittata, 44

NP X [\d Y RQT Z R[a`

I owe a huge debt of thanks to all those who helped to transform this book from a jumble of recipes into reality. In particular, I’d like to thank Chuck Williams, mentor and friend for over three decades, for wise counsel and encouragement, my stellar literary agent, Carole Bidnick, and my very special editors at HarperCollins/William Morrow, Harriet Bell and Jennifer Civiletto. Thank you all for having faith in me and for your unfailingly good advice. My gratitude goes also to ﬁve enthusiastic recipe testers: Laura Martin Bacon, cookie queen and fellow food-andcookware writer; Dianne Jacobs, author of the indispensable Will Write for Food (Marlowe & Company, 2005); Anna Noelle Rockwell, ﬁne equine artist and fellow dressage rider; Ellen Switkes, indefatigable organizer of the Oakland/San Francisco celiac support group; and Elaine Taylor, cofounder and president of The Taylor Family Foundation, a non-proﬁt organization that makes an incalculable difference to the lives of sick children. In addition, I would like to express my heartfelt appreciation to photographer Judi Swinks and stylist Nani Steele, whose creativity and talent speak for themselves in this new edition of The Wheat-Free Cook.

COPYRIGHT

A hardcover edition of this book was published in 2007 by William Morrow, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers.

THE WHEAT-FREE COOK. Copyright © 2007 by Jacqueline Mallorca. Illustrations copyright © 2007 by Jacqueline Mallorca. Photographs copyright © 2009 by Judi Swinks. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

AER Edition © January 2009 ISBN: 9780061863998 Photographs were unavailable for the electronic edition. First William Morrow paperback edition published 2009.

The Library of Congress has cataloged the hardcover edition as follows: Mallorca, Jacqueline. The wheat-free cook: gluten-free recipes for everyone / Jacqueline Mallorca. p. cm. ISBN: 978-0-06-111988-0 ISBN-10: 0-06-111988-1 1. Gluten-free diet. 2. Gluten-free diet–Recipes. RM237.86 .M35 2007 641.5/638 22 2006046155 ISBN 978-0-06-166340-6 (pbk.) 09

10

11

12

13

ABOUT THE PUBLISHER

Australia HarperCollins Publishers (Australia) Pty. Ltd. 25 Ryde Road (PO Box 321) Pymble, NSW 2073, Australia http://www.harpercollinsebooks.com.au Canada HarperCollins Publishers Ltd. 55 Avenue Road, Suite 2900 Toronto, ON, M5R, 3L2, Canada http://www.harpercollinsebooks.ca New Zealand HarperCollinsPublishers (New Zealand) Limited P.O. Box 1Auckland, New Zealand http://www.harpercollinsebooks.co.nz United Kingdom HarperCollins Publishers Ltd. 77-85 Fulham Palace Road London, W6 8JB, UK http://www.harpercollinsebooks.co.uk United States HarperCollins Publishers Inc. 10 East 53rd Street New York, NY 10022 http://www.harpercollinsebooks.com

Gluten - Wheat.free.pdf

Overview

More details

Related Documents

Gluten - Wheat.free.pdf

11 Gluten

Pan Sin Gluten

Gluten Free Handbook

Pan Dulce Sin Gluten

Menu Sin Gluten

More Documents from ""

Electronique_pratique_mars_2015.pdf

Guide Des Pierres Et Mineraux - W Schumann - Ed 2007.pdf

Mihai Suba - Dynamic Chess Strategy.pdf

V1en2018.pdf Oradea.pdf

A Review Of Ancient And Modern Violin Making (1899).pdf

Gluten - Wheat.free.pdf