Desert Tour 08

2008 Madigans Line Edjits Tour Day 1 29 June 2008 Home to Dubbo Had a slow start to the trip with friends dropping over to say Bon Voyage. Finally got all the gear loaded and off we went at about 2:00pm. We were aiming to get to Mudgee at Windermere Dam to camp for the night. I felt like a warmed up shit sandwich and after juicing up at Katoomba and heading down through Lithgow we decided to keep going onto Dubbo. We were going to stop at Minore Falls but as I was feeling unwell and as the laptop and Ozi were playing up we decided to stop at out favorite motel Green Gables and have a meal at the club and then head off at sparrows to get to Menindee Lakes to tomorrow afternoon. Wave tally – all Defenders waved Discos and Rangies – nil. Stopped between Goolma and Dubbo and listened into Adelaide Skeds and managed to get through the Adelaide base who read me loud and clear. Could hear people at Dalhousie Springs, Cape York, Canning Stock Route and Innaminka. Wildlife seen:- only 2 foxes – one nearly under the red terror wheels No story straight to bed Day 2 30 June 2008 Dubbo to Menindee Lakes Up at 6am and away by 6:30 Drove to Nyngan for brekkie. Temperature at Dubbo was 4 degrees and there was ice on the gear on the red terror roof. The sun was just beginning to rise as we left Dubbo but was not seen until 7.30am. Sausages bacon and tomato. 26 snags ½ a tomato and 2 rashers of bacon later had my feed and of we go again. Arrived at Cobar and straight through to Wilcannia. Juiced up and headed down to Menindee. We were told that the fruit fly exclusion zone started at the SA border so we had bit of fruit which we were going to eat at Menindee Lakes. There were signs everywhere on the road in saying that you can't take fruit in so we pulled up near the weir between Lake Pamamaroo and Menindee Lakes about 3.30pm and had lots of fruit for a late lunch. So here we are sitting around our 1st camp fire for the trip,overlooking the Darling at the Main Weir,which is between the Darling and Lake Wetherill, near Menindee, camp is set up, fishing lines set & yabbie traps baited! Have had a beer and a cuppa and now we contemplate the beauty of the evening, The wind is dropping – it was hideous on the Menindee Lake side but we are quite sheltered here. Today we saw Emus bolting across the road about half way between Cobar & Wilcannia and 2000 goats all shapes colours and sizes. Some really big Roo's, 2 wedge tale Eagles and here there are Kookaburra birds and Galahs. And still the discos and rovers don't wave. We'll have a bit of a Barbie this evening and we'll even do the taties in their jackets – we only bought 2 with us – just for tonight! Day 3 July 1st Menindee to Broken Hill Up late – no reason to gt up early- much warmer this morning – 9 degrees. Checked the rods and the yabbie traps. One shrimp to show for all my efforts. Good brekkie of BBQ tomatoes and bacon on muffins washed down with tea. Packed up and on the road about 11:00 and off to Kinchega National Park for a look around. Went to the old woolshed which in its day put through 75,000 sheep a season – it

was a top old shed with the old traction engines, one that they had walked up from Melbourne – now that would have been a trip. We drove along the Darling to the remains of PS Providence whose boiler blew up after the crew got back from the pub, stoked the fire but forgot to put any water in the boiler. And it blew up killing 6 crew including the chinese cook who thy found alive up a near by tree but who later died – only a big old boiler remains! Then we went further along the old homestead ruins. Just a pile of bricks and a fireplace now. Would have been a sight at the turn of th 20th century when it had 40 shearers on staff and extended from there almost to Broken Hill 95 kilometres away. Ran into a bloke with the best 130 set-up you have ever seen. This thing had a motor driven extension camper on it, that has a double bed, shower, gas hot water system, fridge, freezer and a block of flats plus Tasmania. I told him he should have bought it to Cooma. He would have won hands down. When I told him this his mates started giving him a hard time. We kept bumping into them all day as we drove around the National Park. Every time we stopped his mates would say “what was first prize and how much would he have won by”. Quite a hoot. Off to the Menindee pub (apparently there are 2 pubs in Menindee and we went to the non historical one!- oh well they were very nice people!) for lunch then a drive into Broken hill arriving her at about 3:30 EST. Staying in the caravan park and set up for two days stay here. Noticed a bit of oil on the rear mud flap so called the guy who did all the work on the Red Terror in Sydney. I thought it might be a rear axle seal but he thinks it is a leak from the transfer case. I will check the oil level in the morning. Just to be sure I will take it down to the Landy dealer in Broken Hill and let him have a look. Checking out the tourist guide for tomorrows activities and called Norm to seek his advice on the oil leak. Wildlife for the day included a flotilla of Pelicans at breakfast and a very graceful white egret, Roos and Emus in the Park, 3 wedge tails and 4 Major Mitchell cockatoos seen on the way to Broken hill and some wild goats. Day 4 July 2nd Broken Hill Up at 7.30 (7degrees this morning) for a quick cuppa and a bowl of porridge. Off to the local tyre bloke to check out the rear drivers side tyre that has a tear in the sidewall. The bloke reckons it is OK and not an immediate problem. Then off to see if we can find the Broken Hill Landy dealership which we discover after some questions around town does not exist anymore, We do however find out that Daryl was the local Landy man and now works at Broken Hill mufflers. He has a look at the oil problem and says that it is not a rear axle seal problem but looks to be oil coming from the transfer case leak. Two bits of good news for the red terror. Met a chap from AULRO - Mark LRH - driving a defender extreme who knows 'Bushie' – had a bit of a chat – they're are on a 4 month trip. Off to do the tourist things in BH. Up th hill to the Line of Lode Miners Memorial and it is freezing up there. The wind is blowing at 40 knots and the wind chill factor is down to buggery. Then it was off to the RFDS headquarters for the tour there. Jan was very interested and asked a lot of nursey questions and had a good look at the drugs chest. On the way back to town stopped at Bells Milk Bar where Jan was in heaven as they had Jaffa milkshakes. I had a caramel one and waffle and ice cream. Back into town and off to the Day Dream Mine for the underground tour – it was an old silver mine and now the only one left you can down and have a look at. Very interesting seeing how they mined at the turn of the century.

Then off to Silverton Pub for lunch. I had the pie floater and Janine had th pea soup and bread roll. Both superb. After that we went to the Mundi Mundi lookout which had great views to the horizon. Then we went to the Living Desert Sculpture Park and walked up the hill which took 20 minutes. I was OK but Jan was huffing and puffing by the time we got up there. Saw lots of rock wallabies and Euros on the way up and down. Back to the caravan park where I checked the transfer case for oil. Put in 400mls using large 25ml syringe which took some time. Then off for a shower and then off to the Musos club for a feed and to watch Qld beat NSW – not again. Back to camp for a cuppa and off to bed. Day 5 July 3rd Broken Hill to Wilpena Up a bit late and started packing getting ready to go to the Flinders Ranges. Jan went off to powder her nose so I backed up th RT to fill the water bladder. Th windows were fogged up so I did not see the gs bottle behind me and there goes a brake light lens. Pack up and on the road about 9:20 off through Cockburn and then onto Yunta with a brief stop along the way for a quick cuppa. The road from Yunta was pretty good considering he rain they had had few weeks ago. The floodways were all good in th first section to Curnomona where we stopped for lunch. Off along the road to Euriga woolshed where we tuned off to Martins Wells tn the Rawnsley Park road which was pretty bad with he washouts in some places needing 1st gear and some walking through to traverse. I was busy playing with the i Pod when I looked up to see a large washout in front. A heavy application of brakes and some quick to and fro saw th RT almost airborne. I noticed a bolt flying through the air so topped to check it out. Walked back up the road and found it. I was wondering where that other bolt went when I was mounting the spare tyre on the roofracks. Anyway no harm done and back on the road to Wilpena. Stopped at a great lookout called Pugilist Hill and took some great shots the road up was pretty steep with the RT in 1st to get to the top. Well worth the effort though. Got to Wilpena at around 4pm and found out that you had to buy firewood as you can't collect firewood in the park. Got half set up and then quick bolt back out of he park to get roof rack of wood. Back to camp and Jan fixed feed of chicken red curry Wildlife count Emus, heaps of Wallabies & Euros, a wedge tail eagle and some beautiful turquoise parrots. Day 6 July 4th Wilpena, Parachilna, Blinman & Willow Springs 4 degrees this morning at 6.30 when we got up. We went into Wilpena Pound to the Wangara Lookout – 7 km's & 3 hours round walk. Spectacular views, nice walk. We left Wilpena at 11.30am and headed to Parachilna for lunch. Fantastic meal – I had a Kangaroo Thai Salad and Vince had the Feral Mixed Grill – camel sausage, emu rissole & Kangaroo steak! While we were there the coal train went past – it had carriages 2.8 km long. The gorge from Blinman to Parachilna was really very twisty and turny and rather spectacular. Went back to Blinman and had a Blinman pale ale – quite nice actually! Vince wanted to top up the diesel so we went back to Wilpena for that and had to come back to Willow. Met Bernie and Fiona from Melbourne and we are both going to do th SkyTrack in th morning so we decided to camp together at Willow Springs. Having Mushroom Soup & self saucing chocolate pudding for tea. A few beers a chat with our new camping friends

and an early night as we wanted to be up early to do th Sky Trek. Day 7 July 5th Willow Springs Station – Sky Trek Up at around 6:30 to get ready to go. 5 degrees and a cool breeze made brekkie a bit of chilly one. The porridge soon warmed us up. Unpacked all the gear so e could run as light as possible and onto the Sky Trek. It wasn't warming up and it was only 7 degrees when we opened the first gate. The country along the creek on th first part of the track was very pretty with a few wallabies and emus. Got to Moxton's Hut and got the camera out. Flat battery. So put in new ones, flat battery. The batteries were fine as I put hem in a torch and they went fine. What a pain, doing this great trek and no bloody camera. I remembered that I had my phone that has a camera so it was phone photos all day. Smoko just off the track just before we got into the steep country. It was then that we heard the blowflies coming. We had been told that 20 quad bikes were doing the run and they soon went past us in a blaze of dust. We let them go through and had a cuppa. We just set off and two of them came flying past us going back asking if we has seen 6 others tat had failed to catch up. No luck so we went past them all and headed up the hills with the track to ourselves. Peace and quit at last. The guide notes say extreme 4WD track use low range from 35 kilometres in. I was thinkin yeah yeah sure but I son changed my tune when i looked at he first hill. Very steep with lose shale and ruts all over the place. The RT had no problems although I tried without he centre diff in and it dis slip a bit so I used it on all the steep sections for he rest of the day. Up and up and when I thought we were at th top up we went gain. At the highest point Mt Caernarvon it is 920 metres. When we started we were at 190 metres. The views were spectacular and we put our names in the visitors book before heading off again. I thought we were going to start coming down and we did – straight down in low 1st walking over rocks and washouts looking over th edge at a sheer drop. It was at this point that Jan had that look on her face and you could say a buttock clenching moment. My hands were decidedly moist as well. I thought thank god were are going down. No up again to Mt Kibble Lookout which had great views back to Wilpena Pound. More photos and then down down and down some more. When we finally go down to the lower valley we decided to have lunch so I pulled off th main track under some trees. By this time we had been going for 4 ½ hours. Tuna and cream cheese on Rivitas sounded pretty good washed down with a brew. When we left I started going down the track and thought, hang on I did not go around that fallen branch. Backtrack and sure enough I was on another track. Back down on the flat and we decided to go up to Skull Rock. Just as we get there – it is 7klms from th main track, up pull the quads. Only two of them actually got off and walked the 400 metres up to the lookout. Then back on their quads and tear up the track again. Because of their narrow wheel track, they run on the centre of the track and flick all the rocks back on th track. Pretty impressive outcrop caused by Calcium Carbonate washing through a gap and forming this weird skull shaped rock. Back on the track and back to Willow Springs homestead. We were planning on packing up and heading off to Chambers Gorge but we were buggered and as our new friends were also staying a second night we decided to have a restful afternoon around camp. We had a shower at the homestead – very nice! Vince got himself an 'where eagles saw' sticker and I bought a fly net – ready for the flies of the cattle country. Back at camp Vince fixed his 'horn' so now we can beep at things, put in 75 mls of Transmission fluid and I mended his shirts! He has been ripping them on almost a daily basis! After dinner the 5 adults played scrabble – a very close game – only 10 points between first and last.

Day 8 Sunday 6 July We started our day at 2.00am when Vince woke me to put the tent up as it was raining – he had to wake me twice! We got up a little later this morning around 7.30 – temp a warmer 8 degrees. The morning was overcast and damp – it kept drizzling so we packed up a wet tent in the end and headed off towards Chambers Gorge about 9.30. Wild life highlight a Falcon otherwise just the usual roos. We went for a walk up the gorge as soon as we arrived. Found the aboriginal engravings to be very impressive and it was a pleasant walk as well. Had a late cuppa around 12 before getting back on the road for Arkaroola. Arrived around 2.30 and elected to have a bush camp – drove quite a way up the creek to find a quiet spot, pitched the wet tent as it needed drying but also cause the weather looked sus and we will be needing it's protection tonight. Put another 125ml of gear oil in the transfer case. Need to get some at Leigh Creek tomorrow. We went and put some washing on and went to look around the old woolshed which had some interesting old equipment around it and an old series 2 Landy. Picked up the washing and back to camp. Needed to improvise a bit of shelter due to some inclement weather. It's looking like a poor night for star gazing. We are observatory jinxed, every time we book into a tour to look at the heavens we get clouded or washed out. So it will be bangers and veggies for tea and an early night as we need to be on the road early as we re heading to Leigh Creek and Maree tomorrow. Having trouble with Edjit Radio as there is always interference. We are in a hollow between mountains though. Day 9 Monday 7 July Up at 7am and a quick cuppa while we packed up and put away our washing of he line. It blew a gale all night and rained as well. There was a pair of lovely parrots looking for a nest in a tree near us at brekkie – they had a yellow breast and a yellow streak around there eyes – will need to look them up in the bird book later. All packed up and on the road to Leigh Creek to stock up on some veggies and fuel as well as some gear oil. Had a good run but into a strong headwind. It was freezing and when we decided to get out for a cuppa and rest stop we quickly jumped back in and decided on cuppa at Leigh Creek may be a better option. Through Copley and into Leigh Creek where we did the shopping and had a burger as it was getting near lunch. Down to the servo but they had some women there who was trying to tell me that Automatic transmission fluid was the same thing. She suggested I try the servo in Copley as they had a mechanic there. Off to Copley and the guy there sold me 4 litres which filled my drum with 80/90 gear oil. Back onto the road heading for Maree. Stopped off at the Leigh Creek Coal Mine. Now that is some hole in the ground. Had a look at an old drag line which had removed milions of tonnes of overburben in its day. Back on thr road nd heading to Maree. Got there and were thinking of having a shower at th caravan park but it looked really sus so we decided on a beer (as you would) at the pub and then head off to Muloorina campsite – which is about 30 kms south of the bottom of Lake Eyre. The bloke who had the pub said it was a top spot with a great waterhole so after a Coopers or 3 and chat with a couple who were off to do the Birdsville track and then the French Line to Dalhousie. We told them of our trip and they looked a little shocked thinking they were doing the big outback tour. The road to Muloorina was great and we decided to stop at a creek that had some dead gidgee and stock up as he surrounding area was a bald as badgers arse of vegetation. We crossed th dog fence and then 20 kms later we turned of to the Lake Eyre NP. As per usual the Yogies keep their standard of road maintenance the same ZERO!. All corrugated and bulldust. The waterhole was fantastic with birds everywhere, spoonbills, red legged stilts, white Ibis, ducks plovers and more. Decided to check the transfer case oil again and so under the RT with the ½ inch drive and open the plug and oil started to run out. It seems the leak is not leaking anymore. Maybe the RT was just marking its territory. We

decided to have bush shower and when the sun went down so did the wind so up with the screen and a billy or two of boiling water and presto all clean. Dinner of chillie pork fillet and puck choy. This is a top spot! Best camp so far on the trip Day 10 July 8 Woke up in the swags looking at dawn breaking over the Muloorina Waterhole. What great morning not a cloud in the sky and the view of ducks, stilts and spoonbills 20 metres from us greeting the day. Up and put the billy on and start packing as we were heading out to have a look at Lake Eyre. The road was quite good apart from the tops of some of the dunes which were a bit sandy and slippery. It was a bit strange driving at 10 to 20 meters below sea level most of the way. Lake Eyre is apparently 15 meters below sea level – according to the sign. The run took about 40 minutes and when we got there the wind picked up and it was very chilly indeed. The sight of the lake was spectacular with views to the horizon of salt and water out a few klms. Back into the RT and off to William Creek. Stopped off at the viewing spot on the Oodnadatta Track that looked over Lake Eyre and worked out that we had been on the other side some 45 klms earlier that morning. This part of the track is also below sea level. We pulled up next to another Defender and it was Mark - LRH from AULRO again. He told us he had posted a thread on Bushie's site saying that they had bumped into us at Broken Hill. They had just been to Roxby Downs and were heading to Coward Springs for a couple of days and then through to Cooper Pedy before heading towards Alice Springs. Back in the vehicle and we thought we better get some wood so we pulled up and threw a few Old Ghan sleepers on the racks. Stopped at Coward Springs and saw LRH pulling into his spot. Had a look at the old siding and station master's house as well as the old well and bore. A quick lunch of ham and tomato on Cruskits and back on th road. Off to William Creek some 190 klms away. The road was good and we averaged about 95klms per hour. Got there at about 3:00pm central and juiced up. Thought a Coopers or two might settle the dust (outback pub tour). Then back o the road and looking for a campsite for the night. Was contemplating pulling up behind a dune but kept going to Edward Creek where there were some Old Ghan siding ruins. They were well off the track but we followed the creek until we got to the old steel rail bridge and drove under to the other side. Set up camp and then noticed there were two graves on the side of the tracks near the bridge. We went for a walk and there was no name on the headstones. We could see the old siding ruins so went for walk up to them. It was further than it looked and took 15 minutes to walk up there. As they are well off the road they are in pretty good nick. There were what looked like accommodation buildings for overnighting travelers and the water tower as well as some other old buildings including he stationmaster's dwelling. Picked up some sleepers on the way back and got good fire going so we could have spuds in foil on the coals. This is a very Dingly Dell we are camped in tonight.. Wednesday July 9 day 11 Up at 7 and although it felt like our coldest morning yet, it was 4 degrees. We planned a slow start with a cooked breakfast on the barbie – very yummy indeed. We also gathered some good fire wood – river gums and sleepers from the old ghan. We were on the road to Oodnadatta by 9.45. Arrived at Oodnadatta about 11 and after topping up - $2.17 a liter – most expensive deisel yet! - we went to the camping ground for a very welcome shower. A few post cards home and we were on the road again just after midday. Had a lunch stop not long after we turned onto the road to the painted desert. Vince tried the 1.00pm Charters Towers skeds – did not get through but someone in Qld heard him and spoke to

us briefly. On to the Painted Desert site – first to a lookout which had spectacular views and then 2 kms on there was a walk up in amongst the painted hills. The colours and formations were very unusual and quite magnificent – actually indescribable – certainly worth taking this route. We had planned to camp in the next hour or so along the road but there were no camping signs along the way. So we hit the Stuart Highway and found a spot about 20 kms up the road – it's a bit of a rough and ready spot but there is heaps of wood. Day 12 July 10 Very windy night, had to get up and peg down th groundsheet which was blowing around and keeping me awake. Got up to a spectacular red sunrise and it only took about 2 minutes to rake th gidgee coals and get a fire going for the billy. It was pretty warm about 10 degrees so a quick bowl of cereal and pack up for he drive through towards Uluru. I got onto Alice Springs skeds and left a message for Quebec 2179 and Romeo 7669 saying we were on schedule to meet with them at Alice as planned. Back onto the Stuart Hwy and off north. Pulled up at the Granite Springs turnoff for a cuppa and a lsice of fruitcake. Back on the road and there were heaps of eagles eating roadkill all the way up to Kulgera. Got to Kulgera around lunchtime and we ordered a toasted sandwich and a beer each. Some huge Dutchman walked into the roadhouse and said there had been a bad accident at the Kulgera intersection. His campervan had hit a caravan and the both vehicles and the van had ended up in the table drain. He was in shock so the publican rang the cops and we sat him down with a glass of water. Jan grabbed her things and ran out to th scene of the accident like a good nurse. I walked out and it looked like everyone was OK from the roadhouse. The Dutchman wanted to go back to the scene of the accident so I bundled him in the RT and ran him back up there. He kept saying I was on the right side if the road. Jan came over and said that apart from the two young girls being a bit in shock the rest of them were all OK. We hit the road again and headed towards Erundula turnoff towards Uluru. We ran into a Tasmanian couple that we had bumped into over the past couple of days and they said that Curtin Springs was a good place to camp. This was about 100 klms from Uluru and the site was free with $2 showers. We got there at around 3:45 and set up camp. I tuned into the Charters Towers sked at 4pm and heard them asking for people that had messages to call in. I then heard the caller on the side asking Romeo 7669 to stand by for the message which I heard Charter Towers relay through. I then heard the caller say that they were on the WAA line and were also on schedule. That was a relief as we have not been able to get onto them on Edjit radio due to interference every night. The guy on the side told them that we were at Curtin Springs so now we all know were each other is apart from Wash and Norm and who knows where those guys are at anytime. Got set up and spoke to the couple camped next to us about the trip thy were doing and they asked about the Painted Desert road and if they could get their camper trailer through. I told them no worries. Off for a shower and met a group of young guys who had a limo they were taking through to Alice for the Camel Cup. They had a few by then and were taking up the whole shower block dribbling shit as most young pissed blokes do. Back to camp and dinner of Linguni and proscuitto. Day 13 July 11 Up early as we wanted to get out to Uluru and see the Olgas as well. It is about 100klms from Curtin Springs to Uluru and we were on the road by 7:45 EST. Had a good run despite some wanker in a raod train sitting 2 inches from my rear tailgate. Let him past after trying to get him on the UHF to tell him to f%&k off Got to the rock just in time to see the morning lights on the eastern side. We went to the

Visitors centre after paying our $50 donation to the local community. It was then we found out that due to high winds at the summit the climb was closed for the day. We came upon a tourist group with a guide getting ready to do cultural a tour to the rock so we sort of just slid on in. It was very interesting and the local tribesman – although he was not an ancestor so he could not show us some things told us of the dreamtime story of the rocks creation by Liru and Kuniya the two snakes that met and gave birth to the rock – bloody big labour! He then showed how they made the traditional Pita – bowl, Kita – glue made from spinifex, the spears and womeras. He then told us of the two men who met and how one stole the other blokes emu and that is how the caves were formed. When we got to the area where the climb starts we were told to get back on the bus that is when Jan and I snuck away and went and did our our own tour of the base of Uluru. There is heaps to see and the art in the caves and the rock formations themselves were incredible. We went back to the car and had some lunch before driving around the other side to the Mutitjulu Waterhole and followed the base of the rock for a couple of klms before heading back to the RT to drive around to the next section near what I call The Brain for a look at that side of the rock. We then did a drive around the whole rock and then went to the Olgas where we did the Walpa Gorge which was spectacular with the rock going up sheer on both sides. It was somewhat spoilt by some unruly kids who wanted to have arm wrestles and chasings up and down the path. We walked back to the RT and drove down to the Valley of the Winds and walked up to the first lookout which was also very stunning. We then went back and drove up to the sunset viewing area and got onto the Alice Sked and logged in before climbing up to the viewing area to take in the view of the Olgas from the western side. We then worked out that we had walked in excess of 14 klms and our feet and legs could attest to this fact. Back to camp for a shower which for me was hot with no cold water and Jans was cold with no hot. Just what you need after a day on your feet. Dinner of BBQ pork chops, boiled spuds and cabbage and puck choy washed own with a Reschs or three was just the ticket. Tea and off to bed as we want to get going early to go to Kings Canyon. Day 14 July 12 Up at 6am in the dark to get packed up and off to Kings Canyon. Got on the road at about 8am after brekkie and packing up the tent. We had been getting on good with the guys camped alongside us and they had been to Kings Canyon about 18 years ago. We said we might see them there and headed off. We got juice at Curtin Springs and the lovely German girl pumping the diesel told us that Kings Creek Station was a top place to camp as each campsite was its own little area. She said the resort campsite was over the top and a bit yuppy for her liking. She reminded me of the lovely braless Barbara from Diamantina NP. As I went around the back of the RT I hooked my shirt on the remains of the taillight and ripped the crap out of it. It is now a rag Jan reckons but I am sure Norm would get a few more years out of it. We got on the road and headed off. Wanted to get some firewood but there was only Desert Oak and Mulga on the road. Finally found some good gidgee type wattle about 60klms from camp and loaded up. A Fender went past as we were loading and gave a toot and big wave. There were heaps of camels on the road with people stopping to take photos. One big bull had a few cows and some nice looking young calves. I was thinking I hope we see some that size in the Simpson for the pot. Got to Kings Creek Station at about 11am and the bloke took us around and showed us a couple of sites. We settled on with with grass. Fester would have loved it. Had a cuppa

and set up the tent and unloaded the stuff off the racks and hit the road with the plan being to have lunch when we got there. It is about 30klms to the Canyon and we got there and had tuna cheese and tomato wraps. Packed the small backpack and off we set. The walk info says to allow for 3.5 hours to do the rim walk and it was about 1pm when we set off. The temp was about 25 degrees but there was a breeze. The first section is straight up with about 300 steps cut into and made on the face of the canyon. Jan was as red as a beetroot by the time we got to the top. She is getting fitter though. The rim walk was fantastic and the views were great. We had the first ½ of the walk to ourselves but we then caught up with a group of jap and german backpackers who we could not shake. If we went in front they caught up if we stopped to let them through we caught up to them. The geology fo this area is great, every valey and turn it changes and the country looks different. All in all a great walk. We did it in 2 hours and 20 minutes. We were pretty buggered when we got back to the RT and headed back to camp for a beer or three and a shower. I checked the transfer case again and had to put in 75mls. I decided I should check the rear diff as well and it took 200mls – the sun burnt a whole in the drivers seat while we were doing this – reflection off the mirror – neallt set the RT on fire! Off to the showers and back ready to get the fire going for tea. Rump steak and spuds on the BBQ plate. – The Break it day

Day 15 July 13th We had a slower start today – decided to have a cooked breakfast this morning then packed up to go. Filled up the bladder with bore water as it was quite good drinking water at kings canyon station. It was a cool 4 degrees again this morning – a constant morning number for us. On the road by 9. 30. Lots of finches around this morning and we saw many groups of brumbies running free. We stopped at a lookout about 10.30 for a cuppa and a check of RT fluids – topped up the diff again as Vince noticed an increased leak on that back left wheel. We had decided to go to Palm Valley first instead of the Mac Donald ranges – so to the Valley we went – a very rough road in along the Finke river bed and then with the last 5-6 kms all 4 WD over the rocky river floor. Went for a walk when we got there to check out the palms and they were quite pretty and certainly not what you would expect to see. It was certainly a popular destination – heaps of people coming and going. It was hen that Jan's boot sole decided to come away which led to a low walk back to the vehicle. We had planned to have lunch somewhere on the way out but that never quite happened today. We ducked into Hermansburg to fill up the RT with diesel and the headed out for the McDonald ranges. We stopped to gather wood along the way – the first spot was really poor so we were going to move off Vince noticed the back right tyre was going down and it had been difficult to steer in the bull dust for a little while. We decided to change the tyre as we couldn't find the hole to plug. Once that was done we moved on – picked up some wood and decided to camp in the first gorge we came to with a camping ground – Redbank gorge. Well then the fun began – we found ourselves a spot – and then saw that the leak had increased in volume on the left back wheel – took the tyre off to investigate but couldn't locate the problem. The RT did not need anymore diff oil though. Wea re going to try and nurse the RT into Alice a further 125klms topping up the diff fluid as required as we do not have a rear axle seal. Then Vince found that a switch on the VKS radio had broken – curses a plenty – then I couldn't open the fridge as the cargo barrier had moved forward so that had to be fixed. A quick cous cous meal and we'll be off to bed so we can be on the road early to limp ourselves into Alice for repairs.

Day 16 July 14 – Fix it up day Woke up at 5:30am and laid there looking at satellites and shooting stars until about 6:30 when we got up had a quick cuppa packed up and hit the road. I was looking to check the axle leak every 25 klms or so and it was 153 to Alice Springs. The morning broke sunny but with a wind from the north which blew the RT all over the road which ws made worse by the narrower spare tyre on the drivers side. The fluid was only a slow leak so we kept going. Got into Alice and went to the Tourist Info office and found out where Heavitree camping area was. Got the info as well as where Suttons was and headed off to set up camp. Had to look around for a while to find a spot big enough to accommodate us the Numpties and the eastern Edjits if and when they arrived. Set up the tent and so back to camp had a cuppa and then went to town and off to Suttons where the mechanic had a look and he reckoned it was not the inner seal but more likely the outer area where the paper gasket is. He gave us the clues on how to fix it and also had a look at the front output shaft seal on the transfer case and advised us to change the seal. This he had in stock along with a new rear brake lens which I broke at Broken Hill. I also ordered new hubcaps but they won't be in until tomorrow afternoon. Off to Repco to get the RT silicone and some locktite and some contact adhesive to fix Jan's boot. We were then overtaken by the smell of Red Rooster chicken and chips so went in and had some. While there Lea rang from NZ and we spoke to Vincent who is having great time. Off to Central Communications to see about the HF and the boss was out until 4 so we left details and said we would be back then. Back to camp and glue boots, fix the cargo barrier with some old wood I found at the tip at the back of he camp. I also plugged the flat tyre which went well. Went back to Central Comms and the guy had a look and fixed the channel selector. He also recommended I up the power lead to 6mm as this maybe why I cannot transmit as well as receive. Back wire up which turned into a mammoth task as th leads to connect to were so short under the set. Finally got it done and had a fillet steak peas and carrots before packing up and heading to the tavern for a beer before bed. Numpties should be here tomorrow so he real mechanical work starts then. Day 17 July 15 We had a late start as we had few plans for the day, enjoyed a cooked breakfast before doing domestic chores like 'the washing'. It was a warmer 5 degrees this morning but it felt cooler. We then went out to the Old Ghan Museum and the Road Transport museum. Both very interesting and a lot of work has been put into the displays. Vince was unable shape of the locking however to find out the significance of the locking pin of the Ghan train track. Also we had contact with the numpties while in the transport museum – Vince was relieved as he was anxious for help with these seal repairs. Back to the camp site for some lunch which was 'pancakes'. Martyn & Amanda, Pat & Perry arrived at this stage. Nice to be in contact with them again. I rang Suttons motors and our parts had arrived so Vince & I went in to town to get them. We also bought a new compressor to deal with tyres on sand dunes and ordered a new side mirror to be made so that we don't burn the car down in the future. Back to camp and Vince repaired the left wheel seal and changed the tyres back over so most repairs attended now. A bit of chatting and sharing stories and later we had a beer or 3. BBQ for dinner tonight. Day 18 July 16 Up early (5 degrees) as we wanted to get all he RT problems solved. I had a good cooked

breakfast of bacon and cheese sandwiches – Jan had bacon & eggs. Out & about for a few hours sorting out the restocking of goods used and the purchasing of extras required. Back to camp and got stuck into the job of changing the transfer case seal. It was a bugger of a job getting the flange bolt undone and had to get a leg onto to long extension on the socket to get it off. Got it off and had to get a tool to push the new seal in. We looked for a number of cans and finally Jan found a small can of Sirena Tuna was the perfect fit. Once we emptied it out and cut a hole to let the spline through. Once in the put back together was not too bad and the result was that the seal she no leak no more. Got cleaned up and went to meet with Martyn and Perry's old work budy Phantom who we had met in Cooma at Easter. Had a beer or two and then went to dinner at the Alice Springs Casino and had fish and chips while watching South Africa beat he All Blacks. Had to bolt to the bottle shop as they only open from 2pm till 9pm and you have to provide photo ID under the new intervention laws. Just made it and got necessary grog for the trip. Back to camp for a cuppa and off to bed. Day 19 July 17 Up about 7.30 this morning. A milder morning at 10 degrees. So then we fueled up, gassed up, watered up and eventually packed up. Had lunch under the gum trees while we waited for confirmation that Martyn's door lock had arrived. This occurred about 1.30 pm so we off in convoy to Suttons to procure the part which was promptly installed by many willing hands. It was quite warm hanging out at Suttons. While there we heard the dulcid tones of Mobile 2757 calling in. We were able to contact Norm briefly and then we on our way about 2pm heading out for Rainbow Valley, 80 kms south of Alice Springs. A small wood collection was required just as we left the highway and we then travelled the last 20 kms to the valley. We had a cuppa on arrival and went for a walk amongst the rocks – some very interesting formations. We decided to climb one of the ridges and the veiws from the top were superb. Had some fun with shadow photos which had all of us having a good laughA bit of a scramble down in time for beer o'clock before sunset. We wandered up to the sunset viewing area to enjoy the scene. Then back to camp to for ceasar salad. for dinner. Day 20 July 18 It was a warm 6 degrees this morning when we got up. Warm porridge for breakfast before packing the RT. There was a lot of discussion re the dog that came a prowling around the at bed time last night – it was a big black alsation looking dog and there were big prints left behind – it didn't come back after it was shoed away. We went for a walk over the clay pans around the front of the rock formations looking at animal tracks. Had a cuppa on return before heading off for Kulgara. Saw quite a lot of wedge tails along the way. Pulled off at a 'rest stop for lunch about 110kms from Kulgara – passed the same cyclists we saw the day before – they stopped for lunch at the same spot and they turned out to be German guys heading from Darwin to Adelaide and they were all over 50. Very fit men. Then a super duper vehicle pulled in, looked a bit like a moon vehicle! - all the boys rushed over to check the thing out. Pulled in to Kulgara about 2.30, juiced up and went for a shower. Then we headed for the bar to await the arrival of the other edgits. 3 beers later Norm and Wash and Linda arrived – Steve Catto had returned to Sydney 2 days before. Stories were exchanged and we headed out up the road towards Finke. Headed down a creek bed about 20 kms later to a spot with abundant fire wood. Made a green curry with lamb for dinner – too hot for me!!! Day 21 July 19

We were up for the sunrise on a morning that was warmer at 10 degrees. The big news of the morning was that Wash & Linda were not coming on any further with us – off to do their own thing and to join back up with us at Louth. Vince sighted in the rifle and it was pretty close, close enough for camels anyway. We headed out just after 9am for the Lambert centre – wash came with us for this – which is the geographical centre of Australia. On route we came across a couple who had been stranded overnight with flat tyres and a compressor that had failed – It took about 30 mins to help them out. Then we were on our merry way again. Signed the book at the centre of Australia and ran a Land rover flag up the pole for a photo shoot. Time was now a tickin, and we needed to be at Finke to fuel up before 12 midday, also the sky was turning a dirty brown as the wind was starting to blow up a dust storm – so off we went and wash came with us for the drive as we were now cutting things very fine for the fuel. By the time we had our deisel the dust was a lot thicker in the air. We headed for old Andando and Wash back towards Alice (somewhere). The dust storm was so bad that at times we had to stop! It was a no go for lunch! Norm & Perry took a bottle of Edjits tour wine up to Andando station and we headed on to the old station hoping for some respite.- none was to be found! The old station has caretakers John and Elizabeth that are happy to show you around and talk about the history of the place. For a small donation of $2 per person – and that got us a very welcome cuppa and a bickie or 2! Then we hit the road again to try and find our way to camp 1. We had difficulty orreintating ourselves in the dust – we had to find the gap in the fence – as it was getting late we decided to head back to East bore near casurina swamp. We found water in the bore – we collected enough for showers for all – a luxury after our stressful day in the dust. Joy of joys the wind dropped as evening fell and a pleasant evening was had by all. (The wind reared its ugly head again about 2am. Day 22 July 20 Up early as the sun was just a smear on the horizon and I could not sleep anymore having got up during the night to batten down the hatches. A nice cuppa and a bowl of cereal and it was off on the Madigan line for real to start the section of the tour that we had been planning for nearly 2 years. There was a track which wound in and out of low scrub and we were heading towards Camp 1 and then Camp 1A. There were some good dunes and some had a very steep decent on the back side. We could not find camp 1 however Pat walked back and found a post with a tin can which was the camp 1 location. We pushed on and headed towards Camp 2 for lunch and had a nice brew and lunch behind a dune. We got to a pair of hills called The Twins. We climbed up and found a plaque recognising Madigans crossing in 1939 and then we found a tin with a book and some cards in it. We left our names and an Edjit sticker in the book and then headed over he next dune to a Dingly Dell where there was plenty of wood but heaps of big burrs. We made bread, Amanda made pullapart bread and Pat made a huge beef curry which we all put vegies into and we are waiting to get stuck into it. Martyn loaded all the waypoints into my GPS and I did the trip journal for yesterday and today. Cracked a beer at round 5:30pm. The moon came up and we had date scones and a cuppa before turning in for the night. Dune count for the day:- 27 Day 23 21 July Woke at 6am and watched the shooting stars and satellites before braving the cold and getting up to stoke he fire for a billy. Had a nice brekkie of fresh baked bread, cheese and vegimite toasted sandwich. Packed and ready to go by 9am. Onto the track and the first 20klms were pretty easy going, it wasn't long though before we were on the Madigan's proper and the dunes and the swales got progressively harder and rougher. The swales in particular were very rough. Stopped for smoko in a swale out of the

wind and when we took off I saw a cloud of air blow out of Pat & Parry's rear tyre. A stick had gone right through the wall of the tyre and out the side. Had to dig the jack in and it wasn't long before we were back on the road. Average speed was around 5-8 klms per hour as the track was so rough. I had a couple of goes at getting over a couple of dunes that had very soft crests. Bashed through till lunch and had a moment or two when we lost the track nd had to find an alternative traverse over some step dunes. Lunch of fresh bread, fetta cheese and tomato sandwiches and off we went again. Soon Perry stopped again and noticed that the front tyre was going down we tried to find the hole but could not so pumped up with the compressor and pushed on s we were getting close to the Coulson track. We hit the track and decided to find a camp as it was getting late. The swales were very open and with little wood although the amount of native flowers and grass was incredible. Camp found 3 klms from the Coulson and set up camp. All pitched in to fix Perry's tyres and a dinner of pork fillet stir-fry with veggies. Dune count:- 95 full dunes and 5 half dunes Day 24 July 22nd A warmer morning at 8.5 degrees. Yummy porridge for breakie and then packed up and on the road so to speak or I should say the track. Before we left we spied a big bull camel trying to cross the dunes near us but he obviously didn't like our smell as he went off in the other direction. Vince was on the look out for a suitable camel for the pot all day but despite seeing many tracks we never spied another. We got to camp 6 about 10am, checked it out and took the photos. The Stedmans ran over 2 sand dragons (accidentally) – we noticed the first one flipping around and we had to help dispatch it as it had a squashed head. Morning tea was made on what we called a main highway – a rig road cut through the middle of the desert. Some of the swales we went through this morning were very pretty and lush and green. We stopped for lunch at 1pm in a lovely swale covered in wild flowers. Then we hit the track again bound for Camp 7. It was shortly after this that the tire the boys fixed the day before died! Spare on and off we went. We began looking for a suitable campsite around 3.30 but nothing looked dingley at all. With a strong southerly blowing we eventually just picked a spot where there was some wood and a couple of small trees (which provided no shelter at all) to camp for the evening. The boys attempted to put the spare tire onto the rim – unsuccessfully – so will share the tires as needed. BBQ chops and veges for dinner and the wind continues to blow. Dune count for today 156 and 16 half dunes. Day 25 July 23 Woke up early and laid in bed watching stars satellites and shooting stars. Got up around 6:30 and got the fire stoked up for a cuppa. Had bacon and creamed corn for brekkie and then packed in preparation of the trip out to Geosurvey Hill which would mean 50 klms cross country with no track along the swales. Headed off before 9 and crossed 28 dunes before we got to Camp 8 and after the photos we headed off towards Geosurvey Hill. The first 3 klms was good going along a claypan and we all thought this would be OK. We soon hit the rough stuff and this continued for the rest of the trip with the going getting progressively worse and worse. After about 15 klms we had tried in the middle of the swales on the dunes, along the dunes and combinations of all three with no appreciable difference. It was then that we noticed two camels on the adjacent dune. The others stayed put and Jan & I drove off. I got the rifle out and started the hunt. We got to about 50 metres and I loaded and aimed. Put the crosshairs on the head and squeezed. The shot rang out and the camel just looked at me.

Load again and fire again same result. They then took off and we followed them for another klm. They stopped and I aimed again. Shot and the same result. I then noticed that the dune was getting thinner and it was obvious that the scope was well and truly out. I had to take a left turn down a very steep dune. It took me 5 goes to get back up. We were a fair way from the others and they were having lunch so we stopped and had lunch of Rivitas and cheese and tomato and the others then found us and we packed and headed off for the last 15 klms to Geosurveys. It wasn't long before we saw another mob of camels and I again got the rifle out and got even closer. Bang, same result again a clean miss. Put it away and off for the last few klms. It was getting even rougher and when we got 1 klm from the hill I heard the whump of a flat tyre. Out with the jack and change the tyre with help from the boys. It was a stick in the side of he tread so should be easy to plug. Finally got to Geosurvey Hill and parked. Up we climbed and found a visitors book and noticed we were only the second group to go there this year and there was not many others that had been there in the past few years. Back down and made camp in a pretty poor stop but there were no other spots and we had all had the dick by then. Had some good wood so got the fire going and plugged the tyre. Had dinner of BBQ pork chops, spuds on the coals and tinned carrots. This would have to be one of the remotest spots in Australia. Day 26 July 24 Up early again as it was freezing. Frost on the swag and laid there watching the th brightest satellite I have ever seen. Up and the official Landy mudguard temperature was minus 2. Had porridge for breakfast and then a quick pack up following a resighting of the .22-250. Up to Geosurveys Hill for morning piccies and then back on the road to camp 9 which was 35 klms away. I lead th way and was following the last tyre tracks back which were right on the GPS bearing we needed. However, with the wind they soon were lost in the sand especially on th top of he dunes which were rather large in this section of the Simpson. I found hem again and lost them again a couple of times before giving up and blazing our own trail. Haf to cross a number of dunes as our course cross country was at bout 5 degres to the north which necessitated crossng them at angle. The first large I crossed I nearly went off he edge of a wind blown crest and hd to be snatched back by Martyn. The going was rough as guts and the Landy suspension was working to its absolute limit. Average speed was around 6-8 klms per hour. I relinquished the lead and we took turns trying to blaze a trail across the dunes. W all had troubles at some stage crossing dunes and we had lunch on top of a huge dune still 15 klms from the Madigan line. With about 7 klms to go we found a swale which smooth so rather than blaze over another dunes or 5 we followed this till we hit the Madigan Line. We then followed the line till we gotto Camp 9 where handshaking and kisses were had to celebrate the run out to Geo Hill. Decided to pull the pin and make camp however there was bugger all wood and it took Jan and I a god 30 minutes and a number of dune crossing to find a spot where there was enough wood and a bit of flat ground to throw a swag down. Set camp and I checked he transfer case fluid and oil Jan and I had a pommy bath over the dune which was fantastic. Had dinner of chicken and rice and few beers. The plan is to get out to camp 11 or Madigans claypan and a early stop and a roast.

Day 27 July 25 As usual up before dawn and over to get the fire going with Numpty and Norm. Quick brekkie of porridge and a consult of the official mudguard temperature shows it is a balmy 3 degrees. Nice cuppa pack up and on the road for an easy day heading towards Madigans Claypan which is only around 25 klms away. We are about to set off and we see some camels walking up the dune above us. One big Bull up front and a couple of cows and a young yearling calf. They kept walking up to within about 150 metres from us but as they are downwind it is not long before they get our scent and off they go. I had the cross hairs on the lead bull and was about to pull the trigger before he skedadled with the others. We hit the road and had a pleasant drive between the dunes and some rough swales in brilliant sunshine and light southerly breeze. We had smoko on top of a dune and then drove the last few klms to the claypan. We got there just on lunchtime and found a great long claypan with heaps of Gidgee trees and tonnes of firewood. We found a great campsite and soon we were ensconced. Jan made pancakes for lunch while I reglued Jans other boot which had come apart and then changed the tyre and put the original Copper on the mag wheel back on. I the made a bread mix and the fire was well and truly going with a god bed of coals. I put the bread on and went to clean my hands. It was then that I discovered that my wedding ring. We all searched the camp but with the dust on th ground it was a hopeless task. I got my swag out and checked it as I could not remember the last time I had seen it on. Pat even checked her camera video to see if I was wearing it while changing the tyre as she had filed it. We thought it might be in the bread as I had been kneading it or a while. Jan was very upset and we were all a bit down when Jan yelled out I found it. It was just sticking out of the dust near our vehicle. All happy now we set about preparing for the black tie roast that evening. The veggies were cut and the table prepared. The pork and beef were put on and we sat back with a beer and the girls with a champers in glass flutes. We cut up the roast and then got changed into the formal clobber. Had great dinner and a few drinks and ports and then got changed and sat around the fire. It was then we noticed that my dune flag was waving madly but there was no wind. We then saw that Martyns one waved as well. We then saw the reason, there was an Owl attacking it. Even during the night Norm said it was attacking his dune flag. In the morning we checked the birds book and saw it was a Southern Boobook. Day 28 July 26 Up before dawn and a cuppa around the fire before cleaning up and washing all the pots and pans. Had bacon and cheese toasted sandwiches and then packed up and hit the road heading towards Camp 13 and then to 14. We were on the road after smoko and were in the lead when I noticed a camel standing on top of a dune about 250 metres away. I called the others on the radio and said I was going to try and get a shot at it. I started stalking and then noticed another 4 camels sitting on th next dune. They were closer so I got down low and approached to around 100 metres and then took a rest on a fallen mulga tree. I put the crosshairs on its head and fired. Down it went. Got him, or so I thought as I ran up to finish it off, up it got and tok off. I got a rest and fired again and hit it low on the neck. Of it went again. I only had two shots left so i wanted to get closer to finish it off. I got to within 50 metres after a long run. I laid on the

ground and steadied. Shot again and down it went but again it got up as I approached and took off. It was bleeding badly and was staggering but was still trotting away. I then noticed that the lead bull camel was getting worked up. I ran and got a rest and fired again and as before it went down but got up again. I was out of ammo and then noticed that Perry was running towards me and he had 5 cartridges. By this stage the camel was a good 400 metres from e and it ran hard to load and catch up. I got a rest and fired again and down and up again. By this stage it was getting very unsteady and stopped on top of a dune. I got a rest and fired again and it went down and stayed down. I ran up and put two more shots into the head and it was down for good. Perry yelled out nd I asked him to get a knife. He said he would get a vehicle and drive down. It was about a klm from where the vehicle was left. I started skinning the hindquarter with the leatherman knife which was quite a job. After about 20 minutes Martyn drove up in the RT and we took few photos and I cut about 5kgs of meat of the rump. Drove back to the vehicle and celebrated with a beer. Had a salmon sandwich, got cleaned up and headed off for the afternoon drive to Camp 14. It was getting late and we decided to pull up at a claypan 3 klms from 14 and I cooked a past a sauce with Lamb bits which was very nice a beer or two and a cuppa and I was ready for bed. Day 29 July 27 Up before dawn and got the fire going for a cuppa. Porridge and another cuppa then pack up and head off towards Camp 14 which Norm was not keen to stop at following the infamous clutch incident two years ago. We stopped and took a photo with all blokes doing a brown eye to celebrate the fact that we made it past there this time. Down the track to camp 15 and the Hay River track. What a difference this is like a six lane highway. 27 klms to the famous Camp 16 where we stopped and erected the plaque that we bought along to commemorate the Madigan Line Edjits tour. Filled out the visitors book and noticed that Carl and Julie and Cliff had been through a few weeks before. We had a cuppa and a piece of cake took the group photos and then headed off into the unknown through to Camp 17. The road got progressively worse as per Madigan line rock and roll and got worse as we went on. We got to Camp 17 and had a nice lunch of fresh bread ham, cheese & sun dried tomatoes. Al Kida decided to make a chance appearance which bought a smile to the Edjits who took photos. After lunch we headed towards what the trip notes said were awesome dunes and it wasn't long before we got to them. Just after we got over the Queensland border we got to some very steep and very soft dunes. We reached 600 dunes for the trip. I got stuck on one big dune and Perry could not snatch me off. Out with the shovels and dig it out as the chassis was bellying out on the crest of the dune. Another go with a bit of a shove and we were off on the road again. We saw spot on the map called Mudloo Bore which said it had Gidgee and claypans so we headed there with the intention of camping for the night. We went over some really rough ground which was hard to judge the speed and the incessant axle backlash. We got to the site but could not see any evidence of a bore which was a disappointment as we are all really crusty after a week without a tub. We set up camp and I logged us in with VKS Alice Springs & then cut up and took the fat and sinews from the camel I shot yesterday so we cryovaced it into separate parcels. I put two jerry-cans into the RT and Norm fixed his trye which had developed a slow leak during the day. As it got dark another

bird of prey which was not an owl swooped down and attached the dune flags again. Diner of T-Bone, onions, capsicum and tined beans and a few beers soon had us feeling full and with the Gidgee fire to keep us warm it was a very cherry little campsite. Day 30 July 28 A warmer night for sleeping. After breakfast and packing up we went looking for the mudloo well. It was back a swale and although we did not find it there were many channels heading down into the gidgee so we found th general area. Saw some crimson chats flitting around before we left – very pretty lttle birds. On the road by 9.15 and heading to camp 18. Most of the swales had beautiful gidgee dingley dells and had good driving in the swales. We started driving up the centre of the swales more and only crossed a total of 49 dunes for the day. Not long before camp 19 we were contacted on the HF radio by the local ranger who had obviously heard us chatting. We stopped and packed away the gun and ammo only a few minutes before we met up with him. We met up with Don first who seems to be a nice chap and was happy enough with our explanation about how we came to be where we were. The others rangers came over the dunes about 15 mins later – they were out in the Qld desert counting camels and on there way to Mudloo well. We carried on to camp 19 where we had lunch. The RT led off from lunch and there were heaps of lizards scurrying across the track. The sand gradually became more gold in colour as we headed to camp 20 Kuddaree water hole on Eyre Creek. What a lovely sight it was to see the water and what a pretty water hole. Vince put the yabbie traps in and a line in the water. He caught 3 or 4 small fishs and some shrimps before bed. We all had bush showers which were fantastic. Dinner tonight was Chicken drumsticks in the cacmp oven – really nice!!. Day 31 July 29 Up early after the usual satellite watch to get the fire going. Soon joined by Norm & Perry for a cuppa. Went down to check the fishing line and the yabby pots. The rod was a lot lower on the stick than the way I left it. I picked up the rod to feel a fairly substantial fish on the end. Unfortunately it was around a stick. I tried to give it some slack hoping it would free itself but it snapped the line at the hook. I checked the trace and it was obvious it had been rubbing on that spot on the stick for the majority of the night. I then checked the pots and there were no yabbies but one of Perry's ones was missing. You could see where the rope went into the water but no rope now. Went and got a lure and put it on the rod and had a cast or two but no good. Then I could see the rope on the surface about 20 metres out and couple of casts had the rope secured and the pot retrieved. Cooked brekkie of suasages and cream corn and then pack up and head off for an easy day with about 20 klms to Old Annandale ruin and then to Dickery waterhole for a camp our last before heading to Birdsville the following day. The road was great with all of us doing 50klms in top gear high range. We stopped near a red dune for smoko and I got a box of red sand for Mark our neighbour. We got to the ruin and had a god look around including the yards and old machinery. Perry saw an old brass tap sticking out of the ground which was attached to an old iron tank. It would not come free but I knew we would be getting it later. We walked up the dune along side the ruin which was only a chimney and a few stone walls of the cook house still standing. I gave Perry a hand to get an old iron ring from of a post in the old sheep yards. Packed up and went down to the adjoining waterhole for lunch of left over sausages from brekkie.

Back on the road and off to the site of Sturts camp which was just down the road then off to Dickery waterhole which was not very nice. We checked out the adjacent bore which was running flat out. As this waterhole was not very nice we decided to go back to Annandale waterhole and camp there which was 10 klms back. We got there and decided to have the camel curry so I whipped up the meat and cut into small pieces and soaked it in coconut milk and got the onions and garlic peeled. Got a good fire going for coals and then had a beer or two. Logged in with Charters Towers VKS and then went up with Perry and Norm and Pat to retrieve the brass tap. Got there to find Perry trying to cut the old iron tank around the tap which was rusty but still fairly solid. A few minutes banging and prodding had he got the tap out so we decided to have a dig in the old rubbish piles where we all found a bottle or a button or a stopper lid. Back to put the veggies on and down to the waterhole on sunset for a beer and nibbly. Back up after sunset and an hour later we we all eating great curry with fresh bread baked by Amanda. We all got carried away with “Anyone who can't tap dance must be a poofter”, which went on for ages with a number of variations. Crossed the grand total of 1 dune. Saw a flock of Brolgas and some budgies and a forest kingfisher and plenty of zebra finches. There were wedge tail eagles soaring overhead at morning tea. Day 32 July 30 Woke up and packed up to get a good start to Birdsville. Had smoko on the road near a nice dune and then onto the road again. It wasn't too long before we were on the QAA and heading towards Birdsville. There were some challenging dunes which as per usual were chopped to bits by the Grey Gonads who don't like to lower their tyre pressures. I was leading and coming over a big dune when I saw a number of vehicles on the track. As I got closer I got and the radio to tell the others they were blocking the road. As I got closer I noticed that they were all Landies. I pulled up to see that there were a number of D3s a new 110 a new 130 and a group of new Rangies and Freelander There were also a bunch of photographers and journos filming them having a go at the dune crossing. We stopped and had a yack and found out they were doing a promo for Land Rover and were going from Sydney to Broome via Alice Springs. They were tying at the Birdsville Pub so we said we were going down for dinner and would join them for a beer. We headed off and Amanda had a drive to cross some dunes. The pressure was on Jan and I soon had her convinced that she should have go and not be a dune virgin. She hopped in and the first dune we get to is a really soft one which she failed to cross due to lack of revs. As she backed down the arms were flapping badly as she got more scared. Her second attempt got us over and she successfully crossed the next 5 dunes until we got to Big Red. She then chickened out and I crossed via the chicken road as I had crossed before and had no reason to stress the RT again. We got the Birdsville and went straight to the pub for a celebratory cleanser to Cecil Madigan and the Edjit Tour crossing. Then off to the river to set up camp and then off to the caravan park and the showers and the washing machine. That done it was back to camp to get changed and off to the pub for a beer and a feed. All had a great night and we met up with the landy guys and arranged to have a drive of the new vehicles the next morning. Perry arranged for their technician to have a look at Gandalf as his ABS and Traction control lights were on from Geosurveys Hill run. All had much too much beer and back to the camp for a fire and a port or three, of to bed at around 11pm the latest night up for the trip.

Day 33 July 31 Up early for a cooked brekkie and then off to met with John the Landy leader for test drive of the new Range Rover Vogue at 9:30am. Pat Perry and Martyn went first and all came back about ½ hour later raving about what great unit it was. Jan Amanda Norm and I then had a go and while the girls were quite sedate Norm and I gave it a fair lump of boot. What a great vehicle, V8 diesel, 6 speed auto, 4 stage height selection that can be adjusted automatically or manually. An on-board computer readout showing what each wheel is doing. Back to the pub in time to go to the Working Museum and see John Menzies put on his tour and show. An amazing collection of ll sorts of memorabilia and ll of it works. After he museum, it was off to the bakery for a meat pie lunch then back to the pub for a couple. There were nothing but Landies and no other vehicle could could park outside the Birdsville Pub. We then went down to the servo to fill up the bladder with water and I noticed that the stool had worn a hole in the bladder so we had to go back to camp and put two plugs on them. I used tryre tube patches with Locktite Contact Adhesive which did the job. Logged us in on VKS and then we put on a roast pork meal on the coals. This was as usual fantastic and couple of beers to wash it down. It was 31 degrees at 5 pm – a very hot day – hence a very large presence of flies! Day 34 August 1st The wind got up from the South overnight and was blowing quite strongly by the time we got up. It continued all day and while the cooler air was more pleasant the wind was a bit of a pain. Vince went into town to fill the water bladder and the patches have worked well. We were on the road out of Birdsville by 8.45 which wasn't too bad as we had everything out of the RT. We stopped just onto the Cordillo Downs road for Perry to retie his roof rack load as it had come loose. The next stop was a brief photo shoot into the wind at the Qld/SA border. Norm the found us a spot for morning tea. Back on the road for 30 mins and we were at Cadelga out station ruins which was on a beautiful water hole. We poked around there for a while and then the RT lead out for a while. Lunch was eaten near a creek bed reasonably sheltered from the wind. Norm then suggested we back track a kilometer have a look at an old abandoned truck – a Thames Trader. Back on the road for Cordillo Downs – we stopped to view the old woolshed which has been heritage listed and is now open to the public. It was a fantastic old shed – well preserved on the outside with an oval roof. The inside was pretty bare. We could see across to the old homestead which is immaculately preserved and as the station is in use – private/no access but I bet the antiques are fantastic! We spied a very red dune about 15 km's further down the track so Vince and I high tailed it across country to change Mark's gold coloured sand for some red. We found a piece of the old road – very washed out – so we used that to get us back on track to meet up with the others, who were checking out Marrianna Creek for potential camping spots. Norm found the spot and soon we were setting up another camp. Vince and Perry quickly had the yabbie traps in the water and after a cuppa tea we all decided to go for a cross country walk to investigate a rather attractive dune we had viewed. On the way we spied a grey butcher bird. The dune was fantastic and it had heaps of red sand blowing over it – great photo opportunities. There was another water hole (more of the same creek) along the western base. As we walked back along this we saw a small group of elusive eyrian grass wrens – they were running up the dune, in and out of the foliage. A beer or two and on to dinner – red chicken curry and noodles. Day 35 August 2nd

We were on the road by 8.30 after Jaffles of cream corn and cheese for breakie – very yummy. No yabbies in the traps but Vince got 3 fresh water crabs – they were about an inch or so and apparently full grown. Our destination for the day was a waterhole on the Wilson river at Noccundra. We came upon a flock of bustards soon after setting out and not long after we saw a bigger flock with at least 40 birds in flight. We took a back track through to Durham Downs. We saw emus for the first time in many weeks – one decided to run down the track in front of the stedmans – a very amusing site while it lasted. The first half was a beautiful drive through some pretty red dune country. We had morning tea near a bore on this track and spied another pair of forest King fishers. Not long after that we came upon an oil rig site – the area hasoil and gas wells all over the place. After leaving the dunes we found ourselves driving in The Gibbers, which look a lot like the Painted Desert in shape but the colours while pretty were not as spectacular. Then came wide open plains of gibber country and many dry creek beds to cross. Lunch was eaten on the Cooper, just after passing the Durrham Downs homestead. As we came closer to Noccundra we got back on the tar. We had seen that for quite a while. We set up camp down by the water and then headed to the pub for showers and a drink or 3. The wallabies were playing the all Blacks so Vince, Norm and myself stayed to watch the game while the others headed back to camp. The Blacks won 39 to 10!!! Vince and I decided we were not going to cook tea and had dinner at the pub as they had a BBQ on – a great meal – really nice steaks and even a shepherds pie! Then we went home to bed – guided luckily by the camp fire burning merrily. Day 36 August 3rd Vince caught a small yellow belly at dawn – legal size which he had for breakfast – now you can't get fresher than that! We packed and headed up to the pub for a photo shoot, a quick tour of the cemetery and a fuel up for Martyn and Norm. We had a pow wow of sorts as Pat had a different idea on how to spend the next 2 days – head to Currawinya water hole on the Paroo River and have a lay day tomorrow – it was a resounding yes! So off we went. We were on sealed road most of the day. Morning tea was on the road side on route to Thargomindah – nowhere in particular. We got mobile reception Thargomindah so we all checked the messages and I put a quick catch up call through to Jess & Vincent. We had lunch at a rest stop on the edge of Lake Bindigolly. Vince was starting to be dizzy with Mennieres but he kept on driving. We had a brief stop to collect firewood a few kms out of the National park. We arrived at the Pumphole on the Currawinya about 3.30pm. It's a very beautiful spot to relax by. Camp is set up right on the waters edge. The yabbie traps are in. Fish are rising. Vince has his lines in. Water birds abound – cranes, pelicans, herons, brolgas, cormarants and even a turn! We made some crusty multigrain bread. Day 37 August 4th Amandas birthday. A cool 2 degrees in the morning. Waking up beside the waterhole with fish rising (even if they are only carp) and all the water birds really was quite lovely. Cooked breakfast this morning and a quiet sit around camp. A group of 19 emus came down to a nearby mud pool and this was pretty cool as we got within about 20 feet of them. Amanda made her own birthday cake and Vince caught lots of carp. The boys checked the oil and that sort of thing. After lunch we headed off for a bit of a tiki tour around the area old homesteads and rubbish dumps. At the old shearers shed there was a beaut rubbish heap and we had a good poke around. I found an old bottle from 1926 and a pale pink bottle thats pretty old. Pat found several old bottle stoppers and Vince found an old bucket frame which we we dug out and took with us – it could make a good lamp! Back to camp in time for beer o'clock. A yummy dinner of pork chops after a glass or 2 of champers celebrating Amanda's birthday. Day 38 August 5

Got up early and started to pack to get going towards Hungerford and Fords Bridge. First we went to the national park and had a look at he woolshed and the Bilby display as well as the usual root around the old tips. Packd up nd on the road to Hungerford and the border to Australia (NSW). Had great steak sandwich for lunch and then gassed up as we had run out of juice on the way out of the NP. Got 997 klms on a tank from Birdsville. On the road after lunch and got to Fords Bridge late and set up camp on the river. Wandered up to the pub nd had a few beers. Met Andrea Rudd who is the publican and she told us that she had beer a camaleer and had taken her camels on the road for 12 moths towing a back the front Millard carava covertd into a wagon with chooks and a vege garden. Went right across the Simpson and the Odnadatta Track. Back to camp for a lamb chop curry with Norm and a few beers. The Warrago River was very low and muddy and the camp was a bit rough ad ready but OK for an overnighter. Day 39 August 6 On the road by 8 and off to Bourke to get supplies and then off to Louth. Had a nice cuppa and foccaccia in the Geko Cafe and got some worms and ammo as well. Back on the road and off to Louth. The road was pretty good ad we got there by lunchtime and the corner on the fence was already taken. We got s good spot on the fence near where we normally camp which had a great pile of wood bits and a top pile of old gidgee fence posts. Got set up and had an early night. Day 40 August 7 Up early with cold Westerly wind blowing. Had a good cooked breakfast and then we all went for a walk around the race track and Perry and I staged a dogged Olympic walk around down the main straight for a photo finish. Phil the Dill from manilla arrived and we all set up chairs to watch him setup his new camper. We had lunch and them we wandered down the river for a fish. Perry and I caught 15 carp and were feeding them to a pelican who got that full that it would not eat anymore and went over the river and got on the bank to digest them. Back to camp for a BBQ dinner of lamb chops and spuds in the cols. A few beers and then off to bed. Phil fell asleep near the fire and none of us could get him up to go to bed. Day 41 August 8 Up early and got the fire going. No wind – good. Had a nice cooked breakfast and then Pat and Perry took off to go to Gundabooka NP. We stayed and decided to go to the school fete and then drive down to Tipla Pub for lunch. They put on a nice morning tea – all yummy home made things at the fete. I bought a green stone necklace made from jade wood stone and another which I can not remember the name. Vince went with Norm and I went with Phil and Robyn to Tilpa. We left the RT guarding firewood and to assist Shep in finding the camp. We had a picnic lunch at the weir on the darling about 5 kms up from Tilpa – where we camped last trip. Whilst eating lunch a car full of fishing inspectors turned up and as Vince had a line in he had to produce his license. Then we went down to Tilpa for a quiet 1 or 3 beers out the back in the pub garden by the river. Checked out the old signings and all last trips wall entries were present so did not put more on. Back to camp about 4.30 to get ready for an evening at Shindys. Vince cut up the camel and we put it to

soak in coconut milk overnight. A big crowd was present for the famous steak sandwiches and the drawing of the calcutta. While there Vince bought a camp oven lifter off Salty the blacksmith. He made it in front of us which was interesting. We tried it out back at camp and found it to be a bit big for lid lifting so will need to get it fixed. We had birthday cake for Phil's 50th – really on the 6th. While it was a bit rowdy overnight most of the noise was across the road and it was certainly, thankfully quieter than previous years. Day 42 August 9 Race day. Cooked breakfast and a cuppa tea or two as we watched the goings on around us. Vince got the curry underway. We all got fancied up into our black jackets and what do you know but Sir Les Patterson made an appearance at the Louth races and joined our party for the day. We girls had a champagne starter, the boys wore 50th balloons on their hats (except Sir Les) for Phils B'day and the race anniversary and off we went. We got in our usual corner on the hill to watch the days proceedings. I got up 2 winners and a 2nd place in the first 3 races and then nothing until a 1st in the last but I came out even for the day and that included the purchasing of lunch, drinks and a shirt for Jess. Vince had a good win on a tip he got from Virginia which put him even for the day. The curry was going well and on the way back to camp after the races Vince saw a girl that worked at Council Elizabeth and invited her and her friends for a camel curry. After everyone contributed veggies the pot was very full and Vince and Amanda then made nanns to go with the curry. Wash tried to cook rice which held the whole meal up for a time but we soon had the Vindaloo on the plate which was very nice indeed. A few more beers and off to bed. The neighbours were very loud and very dirty with used dunny paper from the girls in camp left under our car. Charming. Put in the ear plugs and slept OK. Day 43 August 10 Typical Sunday morning at Louth. Big brekkie cooked by Phil the Dill and then a lazy morning watching all the young johnnies packing up and pissing off. Had lunch and then Norm left to head home so goodbyes and hugs and kisses. Spoke to the guys in the next camp about he girls in the group who just left and found out they are from Gilganda so I asked them if they knew the O'Conners. One guy said know them, I am an O'Conner. I told them I was off to Goodooga to stay with Bob and would be dropping in to see Mick at Dunvegan. Down to the river for a fish where we caught 27 carp between us all and then packed up and off to Shindy's for a few beers. Back to camp for a long uninterrupted shower and a BBQ dinner then off to sleep early as we had to get up and head off to Goodooga. Day 44 August 11 Up and packing and when done had a long farewell with Martyn and Amanda and also with Shep and his sons and Phil and Robyn before heading off to Bourke and then Brewarrina en route to Bobs. Phil followed us as he was not turning off until Brewarrina to go down through Walgett. We stopped at Bourke at the IGA to stock up and then got gas and off to the bakery for a pie and coffee. After that we hit the road with the RT in the lead . Phil turned off after Brewarrina and we went the back way from Bre to Bobs, via the Lanboyd Collerina roads. Long open plains with lots of stock which kept trying to run under the bull bar. Got to Bob's and went straight to the huts as I had spoken to Tim on Channel 16 on UHF. Once we got unpacked we had lunch and then headed down to Gnomery where I introduced Pat & Perry to Bob and Tim. Dennis the bloke managing Aberfoyle ws there and we had a good laugh telling tales of Vince and his exploits up there shooting.

Back to camp where we had a lamb roast cooking in the wood oven. Perry and I went for a run out to back tank and Chinamans and then back to the huts. In with the veggies, get the fire going in the dinning room and then we all jumped in the bore sans togs. Pat & Perry were very impressed with the bore. Out for a cuppa and then off to bed. Pat and Perry wanted to get up early and head on home. Day 45 August 12 Up and bid farewell to the Numpties after breakfast. We went down to Bob's house to see what was on for the day. They had slaughtered a beast for Dennis and Vince gave them a hand to quarter it and hang it in the cool room. Then they killed a couple of pigs – 1 for us – they had to have their hair removed before they could be hung. After a few more yarns we went off with Tim to move a pig trap and rebait another. We kept our eyes open for critters and Vince did shoot a roo. There were heaps of pig rootings but we didn't spy one. We did see a small group of goats and Vince tried to shoot a small one but it turned away at the crucial moment and fled, to live another day. Back at the sheds, Vince and I had lunch and then went critter spotting on our own – with no luck. We sojourned to the a soak in the bore and were not long out of it – I was clothed and Vince not when Bob came up for a chat and a beer or two. We invited him to stay for dinner and shared BBQ'd pork chops and Itie snags with him. Tim arrived about 7pm to take Vince out roo shooting with him. Bob went home and I had a bit of a read in front of the fire before tootling off to bed at 9.30. Vince got back about 1.30 am. He got 30 good roos with Tim, Vince got a couple of ferral cats and despite going to 4 different properties they never saw a pig. Day 46 August 12 Up after 7 this morning – a warmer morning at 5 degrees or so – but there the temp sat for quite some time so it ended up being quite a chilly morning. Had a big cooked breakfast on the BBQ before heading over to Bob's. Vince fiddled around with the shooting buggy, inflating tyres, starting it up and taking it for a quick drive to check brakes. It is in need of a new fuel filter as the boys decided it was starving or deisel. I watched the hockey at the olympics on Bob's TV. Vince then pruned the grape vines and Tim cooked up a BBQ for lunch. After which we sat around in the shed sharing a few tales and a couple of beers. Vince and Tim chopped down a dead gum tree in Bob's stuggling orchard which we brought up to the shed to keep us warm this evening. We left about 3.30 to go over and say hullo to Mick for a while. Had a cuppa there and me Hayley when she came home from teaching. Then we drove around the shed paddock on the way home – vince had a couple of shots at roos but they were on the move and the light was failing so we went back for a soak in the in the bore. BBQ T bone and vegies for dinner and as I type this Vince is asleep with his head on the table. Off to bed as we will be up early to head home ourselves tomorrow.