Yarn Numbering And Sewing Threads
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Presented by T. Srivani, Asst. Prof., FP.
In textile and clothing manufacture, a wide range of yarns is used, from coarse to very fine. The appearance and the properties of fabrics are influenced by the fineness of the yarns. Yarn fineness is indicated by a number which is based on The relationship between weight and length. This method of expressing fineness is called YARN NUMBERING or YARN SIZE
Linear density and its effect on yarn diameter The relationship between unit length and weight also reflects the diameter or thickness of a yarn. A yarn of low weight per unit of length would be finer Than a yarn with higher weight per equal unit of length. The diameter of the yarn may vary for any given yarn number because of differences in the specific gravity of the fibres from which yarns are made.
There are two main yarn numbering systems in use. They are Denier system used for filament yarns and Yarn Count system used for spun yarns A third system known as Tex system was developed to bring all yarn numbering systems in to a single system for all types of yarns but is not successful. The metric yarn-count system is used in international trade and many countries of the world for all spun yarns.
Numbering Systems Direct Systems
Indirect Systems
Number of mass units per unit of Number of length units per unit length of mass titre tex Tt Mass in grams (g) Length =1km
titre denier Td (den) Mass in grams (g) Length=9km
titre = linear density 1 hank= 840 yards, 1 yard=91.44cm 1lb=454 g
Metric Number Nm Length in meters Mass=1gram (g)
English Number cotton Nec Length in hanks* Mass=1pound(lb*)
Tex System (Tt) The tex system is the only one which is internationally standardised. Tex is the mass of the yarn per km of its length The unit g/km has been given the name tex 20 tex means 1km of yarn has a mass of 20g 50 tex means 1km of yarn has a mass of 50g Tt (tex) = mass (g) / length (km) The finer the yarn, the smaller the number.
Denier (td) Denier was originally used for silk yarn numbering but is now applied to all filament yarns Td is the mass (g) of 9km yarn. Td 12 means that 9 km of yarn has a mass of 12g. Td = 9 x mass (g) / length (km) The finer the yarn, the smaller the number.
Metric Number (Nm) The metric number is the length in meters of 1 gram of yarn Nm = length (m) / mass (g) = length (km)/mass (kg) The finer the yarn, larger the number. Nm 40 means that 40 m of yarn has a mass of 1g Nm 100 means that 100m of yarn has a mass of 1g
English Number, Cotton (Nec) The English cotton number is the number of hanks, each of 840 yards, per pound (lb) of yarn Nec = length (hanks) /mass (pounds) The finer the yarn, larger the number.
Conversions Nm =1.69336 x Ne Nm =1000/tex Ne=0.590541 x Nm Ne =590.541/tex =1000/Nm tex=590.541/Ne
Filament yarns are sold by indicating the number of filaments the yarn contains, and the twist as well as the denier size. For Ex: a 300-10-1/2 Z filament yarn indicates a yarn of 300 denier in size, containing 10 filaments with ½ tpi of Z twist. Each filament in the yarn would be of 30 denier.
Spun yarn count: Yarn number of spun yarns differs by fibre content. Cotton and cotton-blend yarns are expressed by two no’s. 100% cotton indicates the single’s count 50/1 means a size-50 single yarn. Cotton blend indicates the cotton ply. 60/2 means a size-60 2ply .
Worsted yarns are indicated in the reverse order. 1/50 indicates a single yarn of 50-count size. Woolen yarns are designated by the term run such as 4-run yarn. They are rarely plied and are single yarns unless otherwise indicated. Linen yarns are expresses by the term lea, such as 50 lea or 130 lea yarn. They are never plied and are single yarns unless otherwise indicated. Spun yarns are also expressed in Metric system
Several classifications are used for determining yarn counts. These classifications are called yarn count standards and are different for each fibre spinning system. The yarn count standard represents the number of yards in one pound of a N1 Count of that specific yarn
The following standards are in general use. Cotton and cotton blends
840
Spun silk and all spun 100% Manufactured fibre yarns except acrylic
840
Worsted and worsted blends and acrylic
560
Woolen and woolen blends (run)
1600
Linen (lea)
300
All spun yarns (metric)
496.055
Ply yarn counts and Singles Equivalent Spun yarns that are plied are expressed as 40/2. This means that two yarns of 40/1 each have been Twisted together. The singles equivalent of a 50/2 is 25 count and of a 45/3 is 15 count. Filament yarns if plied the usual method of expressing two-ply 40 denier yarn would be 80 denier.
Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns that are engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly, to form a stitch efficiently, and to function while in a sewn product without breaking or becoming distorted for at least the useful life of the product. The performance of sewing threads depends on proper thread selection for specified fabric and seam type used.
Fibres used for sewing threads are Cotton is a major fibre used because of its low cost and high versatility Nylon and Polyester Rayon is used primarily for embroidery or fancy stitch work rather than for seaming
Types of threads Sewing threads may be of spun, filament or core spun type. All sewing threads are ply yarns Sewing threads are more highly twisted and firmer than regular yarns and are often treated with Special finishes or lubricants to improve sew ability
Spun threads Lower strength than filaments Most versatile – adaptable to a wide variety of machine adjustment conditions Less likely than filament thread to cause seam pucker Less costly
Filament threads Higher strength than spun Permits use of finer yarn without compromise for strength Produces neatest seams Careful machine adjustments necessary Greater possibility of seam pucker Costly than spun thread, texture filament threads for knits
Core spun threads Combines the best features of spun and filament threads Useful in seaming durable press garments (resin coated) Most Costly Same seam puckering tendency as spun threads Reduce heat generated during high speed sewing
Sewing thread finishes Sewing threads are produced with various finishes Such as •Mercerized •Soft •Glace and •Bonded In addition to the above, special finishes are also given which include, Flame resistant and Heat resistant
Mercerized sewing threads Description: Treated cotton thread that is stronger more lustrous, more stable than soft finished threads Sewing Properties and Uses: Increased tensile strength lustrous appearance and brighter shades Better sew ability than soft threads More costly and used in premium products
Soft finish sewing threads Description: Natural cotton thread without finishes that appears somewhat fuzzy. Small amount of lubricant sometimes added to improve sew ability Sewing Properties and Uses: Excellent sew ability, lowest cost.
Glace finished sewing threads Description: Highly polished cotton thread that is difficult to unravel. The polish and finish are obtained with waxes and starches Sewing Properties and Uses: Strongest cotton threads Rarely used in apparel Used in the manufacture of shoes, luggage, Canvas goods and similar applications.
Bonded sewing threads Description: Applied to threads of manufactured fibres both filament and spun Waxes and resins produce high polish, eliminate fuzz, bond together filaments and plied yarn and imparts smooth protective coating Sewing Properties and Uses: Increased strength and sew ability used in apparel of heavy weight and coated fabric Used in the manufacture of shoes, luggage, tents and heavy-duty applications.
Numbering of Sewing Threads Unfortunately there is no coherent and rationalized system of numbering for sewing threads. Sizes (weight per unit length) of thread are mostly marketed and expresses with their Tex number Designation. Threads made from silk, man made fibres and wrapped yarns are usually designated by metric number (Nm 70/3; Nm 80/3; Nm 120/3; Nm 120/2).
If the number of components is not given, then it is always the most common, three-ply yarn. With cotton threads, the English number is used. (Nec 50/3; Nec 40/3) The number of components often is not given but usually is 3. If it is not 3, then the yarn number given is chosen so that division by 3 will give the number of The single yarn component.
Ticket Number System: older method for sewing threads based on count and denier systems.
Ticket Number is based on greige or unfinished thread rather than finished thread. Ticket number in filament threads is based on denier Designation except that the last digit is deleted. A 230 denier thread would be labeled size 23 or TN 23. Mercerized cotton thread sizes are designated by a letter symbol system rather than numerical sizes Finest mercerized threads- 00000 The coarsest are size F.
The weight and diameter of the un mercerized spun thread is indicated by a ticket number. This number is equal to the yarn count of the thread based upon a three ply cotton count yarn since originally all threads were made 3 ply. Ex: 30/3 yarn, if it is a thread, would have a TN of 30 Ticket Number system is indirect. So, 40TN is lighter and thinner than 30TN.
Threads were also made with other plies like 2ply for cheap threads and 6ply for more prominent. Therefore, the designation also included number of ply along with ticket number. Ex: Thread with 36TN and if made 4ply is indicated as 36/4 expressed as 36TN and 4ply. Thus the TN36/4 = TN36/3=TN36/2 All threads with same TN will have same weight and diameter and so will fit the same sewing needle.
The single yarns used for TN36/4 are finer than the yarns used in 36/2 A deviation in the designation of ticket number occurs with threads finer than 40. Ex:
for a thread size of 50, the TN is really 45. for a thread size of 60, the TN is really 50 for a thread size of 70, the TN is really 60.
This is because the length of the thread decrease due to the further twist given to singles for 3ply
The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) has developed a Ticket Number system based on Tex System Which can be used for all types of threads The Tex system of designating thread TN considers the Rounded off Tex Number as Ticket Number. Ex: If the Tex yarn number of the thread is 48, the TN would be 45 Tex Number (Direct System) = weight in grams / 1000m of yarn. (Lesser the count, finer the yarn)
Important factors in thread selection Thread size should be as fine as possible and should be consistent with the strength requirements of the seam Finer threads require finer needles which causes less fabric distortion The breaking strength of the seams should be less than that of the fabric (60% of the fabric strength) Thread should have excellent fastness to colour change The thread should not shrink as result of washing
Important thread factors that govern seam appearance Woven filament yarn fabrics – More puckering Light weight fabrics – More puckering Puckering of the seams can be eliminated through awareness of following points like.. •Direction of seam •Thread tension •Stitches per inch •Sewing machine adjustments •Sewing machine operator skills
Sewing applications by thread size: s
Fine Tex 18-30 Blouses Dresses Lingerie Sleepwear Swimwear Other light articles
Medium Tex 30-60 Aprons Athletic wear Caps Coats Draperies Foundation garments
Jeans Rain wear Pants Shorts Wind breakers
Heavy Tex 60-105
Extra Heavy Tex 105-135
Foot wear Golf bags Luggage Over coats Parkas Protective Clothing Work Wear
Decorative stitching Bold Design Look
Sewing threads as available in the market: 1. Bonded Thread (including bonded Nylon 66 and 6 and Bonded Polyester Thread) 210D/2 ,210D/3 ,210D/4, 280D/3,420D/3,630D/3,840D/3... 1000M/cone.....3000M/cone... 2.
Nylon Thread, 138D/2,138D/3,210D/2,210D/3,420D/3,630D/3,840D/3.
3.
High Tenacity Polyester Thread, 150D/3 ,210D/2,210D/3,250D/2,250D/3,300D/3
4.
100% Rayon Embroidery Thread, 1000M/cone ....5000M/cone ...... 75D/2,120D/2,150D/2,250D/2,300D/3,300d/2x3..
5.
100% Polyester Embroidery Thread, 120D/2 ,150D/2
6.
100% Spun Polyester Sewing Thread 20s/2, 20s/3,20s/4,30s/3,40s/2,50s/2,60s/2....
7.
Metallic Yarn For the use of lace ,underwear and outwear 125G/cone ....
8.
Knitting Yarn 150D/1 ,150D/2 . 300D/1 1kg/cone /0.5kg/cone
In textile and clothing manufacture, a wide range of yarns is used, from coarse to very fine. The appearance and the properties of fabrics are influenced by the fineness of the yarns. Yarn fineness is indicated by a number which is based on The relationship between weight and length. This method of expressing fineness is called YARN NUMBERING or YARN SIZE
Linear density and its effect on yarn diameter The relationship between unit length and weight also reflects the diameter or thickness of a yarn. A yarn of low weight per unit of length would be finer Than a yarn with higher weight per equal unit of length. The diameter of the yarn may vary for any given yarn number because of differences in the specific gravity of the fibres from which yarns are made.
There are two main yarn numbering systems in use. They are Denier system used for filament yarns and Yarn Count system used for spun yarns A third system known as Tex system was developed to bring all yarn numbering systems in to a single system for all types of yarns but is not successful. The metric yarn-count system is used in international trade and many countries of the world for all spun yarns.
Numbering Systems Direct Systems
Indirect Systems
Number of mass units per unit of Number of length units per unit length of mass titre tex Tt Mass in grams (g) Length =1km
titre denier Td (den) Mass in grams (g) Length=9km
titre = linear density 1 hank= 840 yards, 1 yard=91.44cm 1lb=454 g
Metric Number Nm Length in meters Mass=1gram (g)
English Number cotton Nec Length in hanks* Mass=1pound(lb*)
Tex System (Tt) The tex system is the only one which is internationally standardised. Tex is the mass of the yarn per km of its length The unit g/km has been given the name tex 20 tex means 1km of yarn has a mass of 20g 50 tex means 1km of yarn has a mass of 50g Tt (tex) = mass (g) / length (km) The finer the yarn, the smaller the number.
Denier (td) Denier was originally used for silk yarn numbering but is now applied to all filament yarns Td is the mass (g) of 9km yarn. Td 12 means that 9 km of yarn has a mass of 12g. Td = 9 x mass (g) / length (km) The finer the yarn, the smaller the number.
Metric Number (Nm) The metric number is the length in meters of 1 gram of yarn Nm = length (m) / mass (g) = length (km)/mass (kg) The finer the yarn, larger the number. Nm 40 means that 40 m of yarn has a mass of 1g Nm 100 means that 100m of yarn has a mass of 1g
English Number, Cotton (Nec) The English cotton number is the number of hanks, each of 840 yards, per pound (lb) of yarn Nec = length (hanks) /mass (pounds) The finer the yarn, larger the number.
Conversions Nm =1.69336 x Ne Nm =1000/tex Ne=0.590541 x Nm Ne =590.541/tex =1000/Nm tex=590.541/Ne
Filament yarns are sold by indicating the number of filaments the yarn contains, and the twist as well as the denier size. For Ex: a 300-10-1/2 Z filament yarn indicates a yarn of 300 denier in size, containing 10 filaments with ½ tpi of Z twist. Each filament in the yarn would be of 30 denier.
Spun yarn count: Yarn number of spun yarns differs by fibre content. Cotton and cotton-blend yarns are expressed by two no’s. 100% cotton indicates the single’s count 50/1 means a size-50 single yarn. Cotton blend indicates the cotton ply. 60/2 means a size-60 2ply .
Worsted yarns are indicated in the reverse order. 1/50 indicates a single yarn of 50-count size. Woolen yarns are designated by the term run such as 4-run yarn. They are rarely plied and are single yarns unless otherwise indicated. Linen yarns are expresses by the term lea, such as 50 lea or 130 lea yarn. They are never plied and are single yarns unless otherwise indicated. Spun yarns are also expressed in Metric system
Several classifications are used for determining yarn counts. These classifications are called yarn count standards and are different for each fibre spinning system. The yarn count standard represents the number of yards in one pound of a N1 Count of that specific yarn
The following standards are in general use. Cotton and cotton blends
840
Spun silk and all spun 100% Manufactured fibre yarns except acrylic
840
Worsted and worsted blends and acrylic
560
Woolen and woolen blends (run)
1600
Linen (lea)
300
All spun yarns (metric)
496.055
Ply yarn counts and Singles Equivalent Spun yarns that are plied are expressed as 40/2. This means that two yarns of 40/1 each have been Twisted together. The singles equivalent of a 50/2 is 25 count and of a 45/3 is 15 count. Filament yarns if plied the usual method of expressing two-ply 40 denier yarn would be 80 denier.
Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns that are engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly, to form a stitch efficiently, and to function while in a sewn product without breaking or becoming distorted for at least the useful life of the product. The performance of sewing threads depends on proper thread selection for specified fabric and seam type used.
Fibres used for sewing threads are Cotton is a major fibre used because of its low cost and high versatility Nylon and Polyester Rayon is used primarily for embroidery or fancy stitch work rather than for seaming
Types of threads Sewing threads may be of spun, filament or core spun type. All sewing threads are ply yarns Sewing threads are more highly twisted and firmer than regular yarns and are often treated with Special finishes or lubricants to improve sew ability
Spun threads Lower strength than filaments Most versatile – adaptable to a wide variety of machine adjustment conditions Less likely than filament thread to cause seam pucker Less costly
Filament threads Higher strength than spun Permits use of finer yarn without compromise for strength Produces neatest seams Careful machine adjustments necessary Greater possibility of seam pucker Costly than spun thread, texture filament threads for knits
Core spun threads Combines the best features of spun and filament threads Useful in seaming durable press garments (resin coated) Most Costly Same seam puckering tendency as spun threads Reduce heat generated during high speed sewing
Sewing thread finishes Sewing threads are produced with various finishes Such as •Mercerized •Soft •Glace and •Bonded In addition to the above, special finishes are also given which include, Flame resistant and Heat resistant
Mercerized sewing threads Description: Treated cotton thread that is stronger more lustrous, more stable than soft finished threads Sewing Properties and Uses: Increased tensile strength lustrous appearance and brighter shades Better sew ability than soft threads More costly and used in premium products
Soft finish sewing threads Description: Natural cotton thread without finishes that appears somewhat fuzzy. Small amount of lubricant sometimes added to improve sew ability Sewing Properties and Uses: Excellent sew ability, lowest cost.
Glace finished sewing threads Description: Highly polished cotton thread that is difficult to unravel. The polish and finish are obtained with waxes and starches Sewing Properties and Uses: Strongest cotton threads Rarely used in apparel Used in the manufacture of shoes, luggage, Canvas goods and similar applications.
Bonded sewing threads Description: Applied to threads of manufactured fibres both filament and spun Waxes and resins produce high polish, eliminate fuzz, bond together filaments and plied yarn and imparts smooth protective coating Sewing Properties and Uses: Increased strength and sew ability used in apparel of heavy weight and coated fabric Used in the manufacture of shoes, luggage, tents and heavy-duty applications.
Numbering of Sewing Threads Unfortunately there is no coherent and rationalized system of numbering for sewing threads. Sizes (weight per unit length) of thread are mostly marketed and expresses with their Tex number Designation. Threads made from silk, man made fibres and wrapped yarns are usually designated by metric number (Nm 70/3; Nm 80/3; Nm 120/3; Nm 120/2).
If the number of components is not given, then it is always the most common, three-ply yarn. With cotton threads, the English number is used. (Nec 50/3; Nec 40/3) The number of components often is not given but usually is 3. If it is not 3, then the yarn number given is chosen so that division by 3 will give the number of The single yarn component.
Ticket Number System: older method for sewing threads based on count and denier systems.
Ticket Number is based on greige or unfinished thread rather than finished thread. Ticket number in filament threads is based on denier Designation except that the last digit is deleted. A 230 denier thread would be labeled size 23 or TN 23. Mercerized cotton thread sizes are designated by a letter symbol system rather than numerical sizes Finest mercerized threads- 00000 The coarsest are size F.
The weight and diameter of the un mercerized spun thread is indicated by a ticket number. This number is equal to the yarn count of the thread based upon a three ply cotton count yarn since originally all threads were made 3 ply. Ex: 30/3 yarn, if it is a thread, would have a TN of 30 Ticket Number system is indirect. So, 40TN is lighter and thinner than 30TN.
Threads were also made with other plies like 2ply for cheap threads and 6ply for more prominent. Therefore, the designation also included number of ply along with ticket number. Ex: Thread with 36TN and if made 4ply is indicated as 36/4 expressed as 36TN and 4ply. Thus the TN36/4 = TN36/3=TN36/2 All threads with same TN will have same weight and diameter and so will fit the same sewing needle.
The single yarns used for TN36/4 are finer than the yarns used in 36/2 A deviation in the designation of ticket number occurs with threads finer than 40. Ex:
for a thread size of 50, the TN is really 45. for a thread size of 60, the TN is really 50 for a thread size of 70, the TN is really 60.
This is because the length of the thread decrease due to the further twist given to singles for 3ply
The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) has developed a Ticket Number system based on Tex System Which can be used for all types of threads The Tex system of designating thread TN considers the Rounded off Tex Number as Ticket Number. Ex: If the Tex yarn number of the thread is 48, the TN would be 45 Tex Number (Direct System) = weight in grams / 1000m of yarn. (Lesser the count, finer the yarn)
Important factors in thread selection Thread size should be as fine as possible and should be consistent with the strength requirements of the seam Finer threads require finer needles which causes less fabric distortion The breaking strength of the seams should be less than that of the fabric (60% of the fabric strength) Thread should have excellent fastness to colour change The thread should not shrink as result of washing
Important thread factors that govern seam appearance Woven filament yarn fabrics – More puckering Light weight fabrics – More puckering Puckering of the seams can be eliminated through awareness of following points like.. •Direction of seam •Thread tension •Stitches per inch •Sewing machine adjustments •Sewing machine operator skills
Sewing applications by thread size: s
Fine Tex 18-30 Blouses Dresses Lingerie Sleepwear Swimwear Other light articles
Medium Tex 30-60 Aprons Athletic wear Caps Coats Draperies Foundation garments
Jeans Rain wear Pants Shorts Wind breakers
Heavy Tex 60-105
Extra Heavy Tex 105-135
Foot wear Golf bags Luggage Over coats Parkas Protective Clothing Work Wear
Decorative stitching Bold Design Look
Sewing threads as available in the market: 1. Bonded Thread (including bonded Nylon 66 and 6 and Bonded Polyester Thread) 210D/2 ,210D/3 ,210D/4, 280D/3,420D/3,630D/3,840D/3... 1000M/cone.....3000M/cone... 2.
Nylon Thread, 138D/2,138D/3,210D/2,210D/3,420D/3,630D/3,840D/3.
3.
High Tenacity Polyester Thread, 150D/3 ,210D/2,210D/3,250D/2,250D/3,300D/3
4.
100% Rayon Embroidery Thread, 1000M/cone ....5000M/cone ...... 75D/2,120D/2,150D/2,250D/2,300D/3,300d/2x3..
5.
100% Polyester Embroidery Thread, 120D/2 ,150D/2
6.
100% Spun Polyester Sewing Thread 20s/2, 20s/3,20s/4,30s/3,40s/2,50s/2,60s/2....
7.
Metallic Yarn For the use of lace ,underwear and outwear 125G/cone ....
8.
Knitting Yarn 150D/1 ,150D/2 . 300D/1 1kg/cone /0.5kg/cone
