Urban Gardener No_14

14th Issue Vol. 2 No. 11

ISSN 2094-1765

November 2009

The Beauty of the True Bird of Paradise By Norberto R. Bautista The true Bird of Paradise, or scientifically known as Strelitzia reginae is a beautiful tropical dwarf banana-like plant indigenous to South Africa. Its common name is often associated with the Heliconias, which is also a relative of this unique plant, including the travelers’ palm. It is also popularly known as Crane Flower, due to its unusual form and color. This, together with its long post-harvest life makes this an very important cutflower. Its scientific name commemorates Charlotte Sophia of the Mecklenburg-Strelitz family, queen of King George III of England. She is a patron of botany. The Bird of Paradise is commercially produced in countries like Hawaii, California, Florida, The Netherlands, France, Israel, and South Africa. Because of its tropical beauty, it is the official flower of the city of Los Angeles, California, in the United States of America. This herbaceous plant grows to about 2 meters (6½ ft) tall, with large, heavy, strong leaves 25-70 cm (10-28 in) long and 10-30 cm (4-12 in) wide, produced on petioles up to 1 m (about 40 in) long. The leaves are evergreen and arranged in two ranks, making a fan-shaped crown. The plant forms large clumps with many shoots arising from a dichotomously branched rhizome system. The flowers stand above the foliage at the tips of long stalks. The hard, beak-like sheath from which the flower emerges is termed the spathe. This is positioned perpendicular to the stem, which gives it the appearance of a bird's head and beak, thus given its common name. It makes a durable perch for holding the sunbirds which pollinate the flowers. The flowers, which emerge one at a time from the spathe, consist of three brilliant orange sepals and three purplish-blue petals. Two of the blue petals are joined together to form an arrow-like nectary. When the sunbirds sit to drink the nectar, the petals open to cover their feet in pollen. Cultural Requirements. Light. Strelitzia reginae can be grown in full sun or semi-shaded, similar to bananas and heliconias. The more the plant is exposed to light, the more floriferous it is. However, check appropriateness of lighting, as too much exposure to too much sunlight, especially summer may scorch leaves. Temperature. Bird of paradise flowers well in semi cool temperature range of 17-20 degrees Celsius; while at temperature higher than this, about 20-25 degrees Celsius tend to promote leaf

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production and inhibit flowering. It is ideal in semi cool areas in the Philippines like Tagaytay, Tanay, Baguio and Davao. Watering. In their natural habitat, Strelitzia thrive near rivers, indicating their need for abundant supply of water, although they can withstand some drought. Regular watering is a key in continuous flower production. On the other hand, sufficient drainage is required to prevent the soil from being too wet or water logged which may cause root rotting. The plant may also suffer from flooding for long periods. Soil. The plants grows well in well drained, fertile, humus rich, slightly acidic, loamy soil, though may also thrive is various soil types. For healthy growth, use a potting mix of 1:1:1 ratio of garden soil, compost and sand. For container gardening, establish plants in 6-8 inch pots. Use a humus or compost rich potting mix for healthy growth and water regularly. Fertilization. A complete fertilizer high in phosphorus is needed by the plant for healthy growth. Fertilizers (example is 10-30-10 NPK) are applied at about 1 tsp per plant every 4 months. Fertilizers should be applied monthly during the flowering season. Control of Pest and Diseases. Strelitzia are susceptible to mealy bugs, scale insects, and root rot. Regularly inspect plants for these insects. For repellant purposes, apply dilute solution of soapy water into the plants to discourage insects. For severe insect infestations, apply recommended dosage rate of Parathion or Malathion insecticide. Root rot is usually caused by a fungus, Thielaviopsis basicola and Rhizoctonia. To prevent this, provide ample drainage in soil or in pot and do not over-water. Apply a dilute fungicide drench using Dithane or Captan. Propagation. In its native habitat, the plant is reproduced through seeds through pollination by sunbirds. However, since there birds are not present here in the Philippines, growers may pollinated them artificially to produce seeds through division of rhizomes or separation of single rooted shoots to yield true to type plants. If pollination is successful, 60-80 orange fuss covered seeds are produced, contained in a seed pod. Seeds has very hard seed coat and thus needs special treatment to overcome seed dormancy. Soaking seeds in concentrated sulfuric acid for 5 minutes or hot water treatment for 30 minutes tend to treat this problem, though there are other techniques like prolonged soaking of seeds in a basin of water, wherein water is replaced everyday is also applicable. For rhizome divisions and single rooted shoots, use sterilized cutting or pruning instruments to prevent transfer of viral, fungal and bacterial diseases. Wash cutting tools in soap and water, and wipe with 70% isopropyl or ethyl alcohol. For rhizomes, each cut section should contain one lateral bud or “eye”. Cutting is usually done after flowering. It is recommended to remove first the soil around the base of the plant, cut the crown into several divisions, dust the cut-surface with fungicide and let the would air-dry for a day in a shaded area. Then they are planted in soil or in

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a pot. A plant tissue culture technique has already been made to micro-propagate Strelitzia in large quantities. Special Uses. Bird of Paradise flowers is used as a cut-flower for tropical flower arrangements, in ikebana flower arrangements and also mass-propagated for landscaping purposes.

Landscaping with Mussaenda Hybrids The Mussaendas are attractive additions to open space landscaping specially along roadsides, parks and parking spaces. With their colorful modified leaves of bright reds, pinks and whites, they provide accents and life to dull monotonous greens in the garden. What’s nice with them is that they bloom almost all-year round, except from January to March when they are less floriferous. Mussaendas are tropical shrubs or sub-shrub (usually found growing besides very large trees), and have an average height of about 10 feet tall, though they can be trained as a single specimen of 5 feet on ground or less than 3 feet in containers. Each flower is composed of an inconspicuous small tubular five-petalled corolla in orangy-yellow and five greatly enlarged sepals (bracts). It is really these showy corymbs of white, off-white, pink or bright red enlarged leaf-like sepals that contrast beautifully against their dark green elliptic to ovate leaves. Collectively known as Doñas, as they were named after the First Ladies of former Philippine presidents, Mussaendas are cultivated throughout the country. The mussaenda hybrids are considered a centennial breakthrough in Philippine Horticulture, as one of the parent plants are indigenously Filipino. They are also very much sought after in other tropical countries. The plant is also known in other names like Tropical Dogwood, Virgin Tree and Kahoy Dalaga. It belongs to the plant family Rubiaceae, which also includes the common Santan. The development of the mussaenda hybrids gained momentum when a white mutant of the species Mussaenda. philippica was discovered in Mt. Makiling, UP Los Baños in 1915. This species was named ‘Doña Aurora’ in 1938 in honor of the wife of the late President Manuel L. Quezon. The late Dr. Dioscoro L. Umali,

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plant breeder and former Dean of the UP College of Agriculture, initiated the development of the hybrids in 1948 using Mussaenda erythrophylla, a species native to India and with single red petaloid and ‘Doña Aurora’ as parents. Continuous crossing and backcrossing resulted into the present colorful hybrids of Mussaendas that differ in the number of petaloids depending on the parents used. Naming of the hybrids after the Philippine First Ladies has become a tradition. Though in 1986, some hybrids were given Filipino names like ‘Diwata,’ ‘Paraluman,’ ‘Lakambini,’ and ‘Maria Clara.’ Other named hybrids includes M. ‘Corazon C. Aquino’, M. ‘Doña Amelita’, M. ‘Gining Imelda’, M. ‘Doña Alicia’, M. ‘Doña Esperanza’, M. ‘Doña Hilaria’, M. ‘Doña Luz’, M. ‘Doña Pacencia’, M. ‘Doña Trining’, and M. ‘Queen Sirikit’. One hybrid plant was named Mussaenda ‘Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo’ after our Philippine President and was presented to her as a gift during their wedding anniversary. It was a cross between ‘Doña Evangelina’ which has full, deep red petaloids as the female parent and ‘Doña Aurora’ (the first Mussaenda to be named after a First Lady), which has full, white petaloids as the male parent. The hybrid befits our President since she is the daughter of a former First Lady after whom the female parent was named. It has also the smallest petaloids among the hybrids. Both mother and daughter Mussaendas are very hard to propagate. On the other hand, the male parent is the most popular and well known among the Mussaendas. Mussaenda ‘Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo’ is officially registered with the National Seed Industry Council of the Department of Agriculture. Usage: White Mussaenda or Virgin Tree as commonly known can be grown as ornamental in parks and public gardens or along roadsides, byways and highways. Use in landscaping, this plant serves well as a decorative specimen with its showy blooms and would fit beautifully in home gardens too! Attractive to butterflies, bees, hummingbirds and insect pollinators as a nectar plant. Cultural Requirements: Light. Mussaendas are grown on full sun, however, the plant can tolerate semi-shaded conditions. The plant tend to be more floriferous with strong branches when exposed to more light compared those in the semi-shade. However, the plant would prefer filtered mid-day sun in hot climates to prevent scorching of leaves. Watering. The plant prefers regular watering, however, it should never be over-watered, or else the roots will rot. The plant is also sensitive to prolonged flooding.

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Soil and Potting Technique. The plant prefers a deep well-drained loamy soil for optimum growth. Some plants can be planted in large clay pots and maybe trained to substitute for the Christmas poinsettia due to its bright red, pink or white flowers. Fertilization. For optimum growth, the plant needs regular fertilization by mixing about 1 teaspoon of complete fertilizer 14-14-14 on the soil every month for potted plants. For large trees, application of about 200 grams of complete fertilizer before and after the rainy season is sufficient. Organic fertilizers can also be an option to synthetic fertilizers. Controlling Pest and Diseases. Mussaendas does not have known serious insect or disease problems however, growers need to watch out for spider mites and white flies infestations on indoor plants. This can be remedied by spraying a dilute soap solution on the whole plant as a insect repellant. Avoid soil from being water-lagged to prevent fungal and bacterial diseases in the roots. Propagation. Mussaendas can be propagated from softwood or semi-hardwood cuttings and very rarely from seeds. Marcotting technique is usually practiced or placing cuttings in misting beds or the lower tip is applied first with a rooting hormone before inserted into the soil. Other Special Requirements. The shrub needs regular yearly pruning as the branches becomes leaf-heavy and may tend to bend and break during heavy rains, strong wind or during typhoons. It is recommended to prune plants after blooming to get a bushy plant, though the lower stems tend to become bare however much you prune.

GROWING COELOGYNE ORCHIDS Coelogyne orchids are one of the most important orchid group, with approximately 150 species distributed throughout the southeast Asia area, China and the Philippines . It is a group which includes a number of horticulturally important species that have been in great demand by orchid collectors since their introduction in the last part of the 1800s. It also includes some considerable number of botanical type plants which are seldom found in collections. Coelogyne orchids are popular in collections due to their mostly fragrant, free flowering, and showy inflorescences. Inflorescence of Coelogyne cummingii

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The orchid genus was found by Dr. Lindley in 1825, with the well-known horticultural species C. cristata as the type specimen. The generic name Coelogyne was suggested by the prominent depression in the stigma and was derived from the Greek kailos, "hollow," and gyne, "a female." Plants of this group are stemless, characterized by tufted, crowded pseudo-bulbs with two or three papery leaves. The flowers are in racemes, mostly pendent, mediumsized, usually of delicate white, yellowish, and greenish color, often suffused with brown. The lip is threelobed with erect lateral lobes.

Coelogyne cristata Many species are very large epiphytic (occasionally lithophytes) plants which have quite showy, often fragrant flowers. They have quite large flattened pseudobulbs with one to two quite large, leathery leaves which are plicate. The pseudobulbs are often well spaced on a rather long, creeping rhizome so they are often best grown in a large basket or slab so they can roam around easily. Most of the Philippine members of the genus, of which there are about 20, are usually small flowered plants with greenish and yellowish flowers. There are two species, however, C. asperata and C. merrillii which produce flowers of substantial size and prove of interest to some collectors. C. asperata is indigenous to the Samar, Mindanao and Negros, as well as in Borneo, Sumatra and New Guinea . This is a large plant that often grows three to four feet tall and has flowers 11/2 to two inches across. It is native to the hot, low coastal regions. C. merrillii, on the other hand, is a mountain species and is found at an elevation of from two thousand to seven thousand feet. This species was named in honor of Dr. Merrill, the distinguished botanist, who has contributed extensively to the study of the Philippine flora.

Coelogyne pandurata is one of the most attractive and popular species.

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Coelogyne marmorata is representative of a number of similar native Coelogynes, all of which are indigenous to the mountains of northern Luzon and Benguet subprovince. Two other similar species, C. integerrima and C. chloroptera, also have shiny yellow green bulbs and sprays of from five to ten light green flowers. C. marmorata and C. merrillii are usually found growing on the mosscovered trees of the cool humid areas of the mountain regions and, therefore, cannot be grown successfully in the hot climate of Manila . For hobbyists, some of the warm growing species are recommended for warm lowland temperature, while the cool growing species are recommended for cool upland temperature. How to Grow this Plant. Light. Coelogyne grow in about 60% sunlight or brighter, and needs to be protected from direct heat of the sun.

Coelogyne lactea. Temperature. Most Coelogyne species are cool growing, and growers may find it difficult to acclimatize plants in the lowland. however, there are also some species which are warm growing or have adjusted to the lowland condition and can therefore be grown in the warm lowland condition. Potting Techniques. Coelogyne could be planted either in plastic or clay pots, and the plant have to be properly stalked or anchored in the center of the pot using GI or copper wires. The plant must also be tied properly into the wire stalk to prevent it from moving during watering. Stalking is very important because insufficiently stalked plants will fail to root. A matured plant can be divided into individual plants with 3-4 pseudobulbs. Sterilized pruning shear by washing in soap and water and wiping with 70% ethyl alcohol when dividing plants to prevent virus infection. The wound needs to be sealed with a fungicides paste to prevent entry of fungal diseases into the wound. Use combination of charcoal, broken clay pots, cracked limestone, and coconut husk chips as potting medium. Water. Water plants moderately, about once every 3 days. Keep the growing area humid by providing companion plants or wetting the surrounding areas and companion plants. Do not over water or else the plant will rot. Ventilation or wind movement is very important in drying the plant. Allow air movement in the nursery or garden and provide enough space between plants.

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Fertilization. Fertilize plants with the usual dose of orchid foliar fertilizer spray, about 1 teaspoon per gallon of water, and spray it on the plant once a week, usually after watering. Pest and Disease Management. Regularly check plants for insect pests or diseases. Plants maybe attacked by sucking insects like aphids, scales, mealy bugs or mites. For preventive treatment, spray plants with dilute Perla soap solution to once a week, maybe together with the fertilizer. However, for insect pest infestation, spray plants with Lannate or Sevin insecticides with formulation based on the label. For fungal diseases, do not overwater plants. During rainy season, spray plants with Dithane or Captan fungicides as a prophylactic against fungal rots. Allow air movement, and always remove all dead or decaying plant parts from the plant. Propagation. Coelogyne could be propagated through division of pseudobulbs. Care needs to be observed in dividing plants, especially using only sterilized pruning shears by washing them first in soap and water and wiping with 70% ethyl alcohol. Plants are then divided into plants with 3-4 pseudobulbs each and mounted on clay pots with charcoal. However, the fastest and efficient way of propagation is through seed culture technology in the laboratory. Flowers of selected plants are pollinated, and their seed capsule are allowed to mature. Coelogyne seed capsules mature in about 3 months. They usually contain thousands seeds. The seeds are then sown in the laboratory in a glass vessel with an artificial nutrient medium and seeds will germinate in one month’s time. Seedlings will be ready to be planted in the nursery after 8 months.

GROWING FIRE ORCHIDS

The fiery Renanthera philippinensis is a true eye-catcher in a garden of greens. Fire Orchids or Renantheras are beautiful and highly collectable plants because of their intense red flowers. Renanthera species are used as parent plants in breeding today's bright red conventional and inter-generic vandaceous hybrids. They are ideal orchids used as accent plants

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in garden shows. They are medium size to tall plants, thus, they require stakes to support their long stems.

The genus Renanthera was named by Juan Loereiro in 1790 in the Flora Cochinchinensis, and the generic name came from the Latin word "ren" meaning kidney and the Greek word "anthera" or anther. It refers to the kidneyshaped anther of species. Renanthera coccinea Lour. was the type species used for this brightly colored genus. Worldwide, the genus has about 15 species, mostly found in China, India, Thailand, Peninsular Malaysia, Vietnam, Laos, Indonesia, Borneo, New Guinea and the Philippines. There are four species found in our country, 3 of them are endemic, namely R. monachica, R. philippinensis, and R. storiei, while one species, R. matutina is indigenous. They are one of the most sought after Philippine orchid species locally and abroad. There are also a lot of red flowered vanda hybrids or intergeneric crosses which has our Renanthera species bloodline. A hybrid, Renanthera philippinensis x Azimah. Note the color contribution of the red species to this hybrid.

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These plants are usually epiphytes, however, there are occasions that some plants are found to adapt to a terrestrial habit, wherein some plants start their life as a soil growing orchid, and its stem gradually climbs up the trunk of a tree and becomes an epiphyte. Renantheras has 2 basic groups: one group has short stems like that of a Vanda, while another group is vine-like and with elongated stems, which may reach about 5-6 meters in height. Renantheras are closely related to the Vanda and Arachnis orchids. Most Renantheras have fiery red flowers, usually with shades of orange, thus given the common name fire orchid. Cultural Requirements: Light. Matured Fire Orchids grow in 75% light, and needs to be protected from intense heat and light at noontime to prevent leaf scorching. Potting Techniques. Fire Orchids can be planted in the soil enriched with animal manure and mulched with wood shavings or coconut husks. Some growers plant them in 1 foot diameter clay pots with gravel + charcoal as potting material. Plants are often staked with bamboo or thick wire to keep stem upright. Secure stem on the stake by tying them properly using plastic coated wire. For epiphytic types, they can be mounted on wood branches. Water. Water plants regularly, specially during summer. Allow wind movement to dry plants between watering and to prevent fungal diseases Flowering. Plants flower when mature, and when well exposed to light, and well fertilized and watered. These plants produces fantastic bright red arching inflorescence. Fertilization. Spray dilute orchid foliar fertilizers with trace elements once a week, usually after watering them in the morning for healthy and vigorous growth. Pest & Disease Management. Fire orchids can be attacked by weevils or sucking insects like mites, thrips or aphids. For small plant population, weevil beetles can be handpicked in the night as they are nocturnal insects. For serious insect infestations, spray Lannate or Sevin insecticide once and check for reoccurrence. Fungal diseases usually arise during rainy season. Allow proper spacing between plants and ventilation. For fungal diseases, apply fungicides like Captan, Ridomil or Bavistin as a spray on the whole plant and drench on the potting medium. Visit plants regularly, as pest and diseases can wipe out your collection. Propagation. Conventionally, Fire Orchids could be propagated through top cuttings, similar in propagating Vanda. Cut the top shoot segments with 3 roots using sterile pruning shears. Seal wounds on mother plant and on the top cut segment using fungicide paste, then mount on clay pots with wire or bamboo stake. The fastest and efficient way of propagation is through seed culture technology in the laboratory. Flowers of selected plants can be pollinated, and their seed capsule are allowed to mature. Renanthera seed capsules mature in about 5 months (but also depends on species and hybrids, including the season). They usually contain thousands of seeds! Using orchid seed technology, the seeds are then sown in the laboratory in a glass vessel with an artificial nutrient medium. The seeds germinate in a month’s time and will become hardy seedlings in a years time. Then, they can be out-planted in the nursery where they mature from 2 to 3 years. The Singaporeans are the ones extensively using Renantheras in their vandaceous orchid breeding program.

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GROWING ONCIDIUM ORCHIDS by Norberto Bautista

The Oncidiums or Dancing Lady Orchids are one of the popular epiphytic sympodial orchid grown in the Philippines, due to its ease of growing and its long lasting sprays of flowers. Their name was derived from the appearance of their flowers, similar to a Spanish dancer. They were one of the very first of the tropical epiphytic orchids introduced into European cultivation. They can be grown in the garden, mostly thriving in neglect. Oncidiums, together with Odontoglossums and other related types (like Brassia, Wilsonara, Cochlioda, Miltonia, Colmanara, Vuylstekeara, and Burrageara) comprise a very large orchid alliance, which offers a wide range of color patterns and cultural flexibility. Oncidiums are introduced orchids, which are found exclusively in the Western Hemisphere. Its native habitat ranges from Florida and Mexico through Central and South America, from sea level to 12,000 ft. . The Oncidium alliance is composed of approximately 70 genera, and there are approximately 1,200 species. There are also thousands of hybrids. The most common flower colors are combinations of yellow and brown, although lavender, red and white are colors infrequently seen in the genus. These colors are consistent with Hymanoptera (bee and wasp) pollinated flowers. Clear red coloration is infrequent as most bees are blind to red, the few flowers of red color often reflecting ultraviolet rays which the bees can perceive. The individual flowers of many species are not large, but this is more than compensated for in most species by the great number of flowers produced on long, often branching flower spikes, producing a “shower of gold” effect. The majority of plants have rather prominent pseudobulbs and strap-shaped, somewhat

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Oncidiums or Dancing Lady Orchids have typical appearance of “Dancing ballerinas with wide yellow skirts and brown heads and arms. thin leaves. Roots of most oncidinae are fine and numerous. Most species are epiphytes, growing on forest trees. Cultural Requirements Light. Oncidiums prefer bright light, similar to Cattleyas (ranging from 1500 to 4000 foot-candles) provided they are protected from too much heat. To check if your plants is receiving the right light intensity, reddish green leaves indicates too much light, while dark green leaves indicates not enough light. Insufficient light usually produces spindly growth, thin pseudobulbs, and dark green leaves. They may even fail to flower. Overexposure to sun produces plant with stunted growth, yellowing to almost bleached appearance. Water. The rate of watering depends on location, wind movement, and light intensity. Oncidiums have pseudobulbs, its water storing organ, thus, they can tolerate some degree of drying. Water plants every 3-5 days. Water only when the potting media is dry. This can checked by dipping your thumb into the potting mix in the pot. When watering, water the whole plant until it is dripping wet, then let it moderately dry before the next watering. Plants are usually watered early morning or late in the afternoon. If the pseudobulbs are becoming shriveled, the plant is not getting enough water. Over-watering will also cause this symptom. Too much water will rot the roots, therefore preventing the plant from getting any water. Humidity. Humidity can be increased by wetting the surrounding area around the orchid or providing companion plants like ferns, bromeliads, and other foliage plants. Humidity for potted plants can be increased around the plant by placing the pot on an inverted saucer in a baking pan

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filled with pebbles, rock and water. Keep water level below top of pebbles so that plant will not have "wet feet" from sitting in water. Morning misting of foliage is also helpful. Fertilization. Oncidiums are moderate feeders, and they respond very well to fertilization. Fertilize during active growth, and during sunny days. Use foliar fertilizers for orchids (with trace elements and follow the recommended dilution rate in the label). Oncidiums are usually fertilized once per week. Use balanced growing fertilizers with high Nitrogen (N) for seedlings and high in Potassium (K) or blooming fertilizers for matured plants. Wet plants with water first before spraying dilute solutions of fertilizers. A small amount of organic fertilizer like decomposed chicken manure, or control release / slow release fertilizers can be added to the pot for added nutrients. Ventilation or wind movement is very important in drying excess water on the plant. Plants needs to be kept dry a few hours after watering. Water soaked plants tend to rot. Use an industrial or electric fan to dry large number of plants if wind movement is not available. Flowering. Plants flower when mature, and when well exposed to light, well fertilized and watered. Oncidium hybrids are usually free-flowering. Oncidium orchids produces sprays of yellow, brownish or white flowers. Pest and Diseases Control. These plants are susceptible to rotting, thus, keep plants dry as much as possible. Limiting the watering to once every 3 days will solve this problem. Apply fungicides like Captan, Ridomil or Bavistin as a propylactic during the rainy season or when there is fungal disease. Apply Lannate or Sevin only when there is serious insect infestations. Always check root system and potting mix for signs of rotting. Repot and replace potting medium immediately when roots are rotting, specially during the onset of the rainy season. As much as possible, use as minimal charcoal. Potting Techniques. Oncidiums could be planted either in plastic or clay pots, and the plant have to be properly stalked or anchored in the center of the pot using GI or copper wires. Since these plants are either small or medium sized, pot sizes of 35 inches diameter or slightly bigger are used. The plant must also be tied properly into the wire stalk to prevent it from moving during watering. Stalking is very important because insufficiently stalked plants will fail to root. Oncidium are usually repotted at least every year to 18 months. As a general rule, repot them when the new shoot is two to three inches tall or when new roots appear. Repot when the plant has overgrown their pot or there is signs of root / stem rotting or decay. All the old mix should be removed from the roots and any dead roots should be removed. If dividing, keep the divisions in clumps of three to five mature bulbs. Use charcoal as potting medium with a thin top dressing of chopped coconut husk or tree fern roots. This orchid can also be mounted on dead wood, or on tree fern slabs. Most Oncidium are epiphytes in nature, meaning they grow on tree trunks and limbs. Propagation. Oncidiums can be asexually propagated. A matured plant can be divided into individual plants with 3-4 pseudobulbs. The plants need to be cut using a sterilized pruning shear (dipped in Chlorox solution every time a new plant is to be cut or washed in soap and water) and swabbed with 70% ethyl alcohol to prevent spreading plant viruses. The wound needs to be sealed with a fungicides paste (a teaspoon of water added in 2 teaspoon fungicide powder) to prevent entry of fungal diseases into the wound. The fastest and efficient way of propagation is through seed culture technology in the laboratory. Flowers of selected plants are pollinated, and their seed capsule are allowed to mature. Oncidium seed capsules mature in about 3 months (but also depends on species and hybrids). Sterility in some crosses are sometimes observed! Once the seed capsules are mature, they can be harvested and brought to an orchid lab for seed sowing. The seeds are then sown in the

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laboratory in a glass vessel with an artificial nutrient medium, under aseptic conditions. Seeds usually germinate within a month, and will be ready for greenhouse establishment in less than a year’s time. They are usually out-planted in the nursery, where they mature after 2-3 years.

CRAZY ABOUT PUMPKINS AND GOARDS AT PUENTESPINA / WALING ORCHIDS

New varieties of goards and pum pkinsfortheH alow enare displayed at the Puentespina Orchid store in Manila Seedling Bank.

Children enjoyed the trip. These colorful pumpkins’ hard skins make the fruits can last 2-3 months as table decorations… good for All Saint’s Day , Christmas, and New Year and the Lunar Chinese New Year…

The Urban Gardener is an official electronic publication (in PDF Format) of the Plant Biotechnology Project, Research & Development Center, Rizal Technological University, Boni Avenue, Mandaluyong City, Philippines. It is published monthly. For more information, please inquire thru email: [email protected] or [email protected] and landline (+632) 534-8267 Local 135 or Fax

(+632) 534-9710.

All articles in this month’s issue was written and edited by N.R. Bautista © November 2009 The Plant Biotechnology Project Committee is composed of: Alexander B. Quilang, Norberto R. Bautista, Jovita A. Anit & Carnette C. Pulma.

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