Urban Gardener No_13

13th Issue Vol. 2 No. 10

ISSN 2094-1765

October 2009

CULTIVATION OF THE SHOWY HIBISCUS by Norberto Bautista There are now an influx of new Hibiscus hybrids in the plant market, with large 5 inches wide flowers. Gumamela, or Hibiscus rosa-sinensis L. was named by Linnaeus in 1753 and belongs to plant family Malvaceae, It is also commonly known as Chinese hibiscus, Shoe flower (due to the fact it is used as a shoe polisher), and its scientific name literally means China Rose. This plant is a tropical evergreen flowering shrub native to East Asia and the genus is composed of about 220 species. Other hibiscus species are distributed in almost all continents except Antarctica . Hibiscus is widely grown as an ornamental plant throughout the tropics, usually a common garden plant, and with some medicinal properties. It is related to Okra, Durian, cocoa and cotton. The new Hibiscus hybrids have flowers that are large, firm, scentless, and colors range from red, orange, yellow, pink, white and light blue. Flowers are either composed of single or double sets of petals. There are now numerous varieties and hybrids available. The flowers are distinctively known to produce nectar, which attracts its bird pollinators, and also children, who oftentimes sip nectar from the base of the plucked flowers once detached from its sepal. In 1998, Rey Pimentel of the Institute of Plant Breeding, University of the Philippines at Los Baños, introduced ten new hibiscus hybrids, honoring the centennial celebration of Philippine independence. The plants were named after heroines of the country. Pimentel had previously brought in new varieties from Australia. He has again, produced ten new

1

hibiscus hybrids called the Millennium plants. He has named them after Philippine women scientists, mostly from the University of the Philippines. Pimentel has been in the forefront in encouraging people to raise hibiscus. Hibiscus rosasinensis is the City Flower of Manila, national flower of Malaysia and the state flower of Hawaii. Hibiscus flower preparations are used for hair care, as shoe polish and the flowers themselves are edible and used in salads. Children usually play with this flowers as they crush the flowers in water to produce a soapy solution, which are then used to make instant bubble balloons. Cultural Requirements: Light. Hibiscus loves bright light and are usually grown exposed to direct full sun. Watering. Water plants moderately, but allowing the top half inch of the potting media to dry out between watering. Fertilization. Though home gardeners do not usually fertilize their plants, it is recommended to apply half-teaspoon complete fertilizer 14-14-14 and half-teaspoon muriate of potash per gallon of water and drench about 100 ml (1 drinking glass) of this solution per 6 inch pot or for every plant every two weeks. This is to ensure that the plant will continuously flower and will have vigorous growth. About half teaspoon of controlled release fertilizers or organic fertilizers like vermicompost or fully-decomposed chicken manure can also be applied for added nutrients. Potting and Repotting. Use soil-base potting mix composed of 1:1:1 garden soil: compost : sand in clay or plastic pots. Control of Pest and Diseases. Hibiscus is susceptible to sucking insects like white flies, aphids and scales. They can be controlled by spraying with insecticides like Lannate or Sevin.when infestations occur. Hibiscus is also a favorite host of certain Lepidopterous larvae (caterpillars of butterflies and moths) which defoliate or damage their leaves. Weekly spraying of fungicides like Captan or Dithane can be applied as a prophylactic once the rainy season arrives in order to control leaf spots, and rotting.

2

Hibiscus plants, especially newer cultivars, have very few flowers during the rainy season, which extends from June to October. This is a good time to prune the hibiscus plants. After the rain, the plants start blooming profusely. Propagation. Shoot tip cuttings. – Hibiscus is commonly propagated through shoot tip cuttings. 4-inch shoot tips are cut, and its base are inserted into potting medium composed of 1:1:1 garden soil, compost and sand in plastic pots. Place about 15-20 cuttings in a 6” pot, and cover with plastic to maintain humidity and in a bright filtered light. Dipping the base of the stem cutting in rooting hormone will facilitate rooting. Moist the media regularly, making sure that it does not dry out. Cuttings will root within 3 weeks. Once rooted, the plastic bag covering the seedlings can be removed and drenching of fertilizer solution can be applied, as well as regular watering. After 3 weeks, plants can be potted individually. Air-layering or Marcotting. – a small band of wound (about half inch length) is made on the bark of the stem where you want roots to be induced. Sterile moist coconut coir dust or sphagnum moss is placed on the wound area and then is covered by plastic. Roots usually arise within 3-4 weeks. Once roots arise, the cutting can be separated from the mother plant and planted on a pot with potting medium. Seeds. Gumamela flowers can be pollinated to produce seed capsules. Seeds from mature seed capsules are usually mature in 6-14 weeks after pollination and can be germinated on plastic pots with potting mixture, and plants usually flower after 6-18 months from germination. Oftentimes, these crosses are sterile, but some are fertile, further increasing the complexity of variability and the possibility of a virtually unlimited number of eventual Hibiscus rosa-sinensis varieties. The pod could contain anywhere between zero and 60 seeds. Grafting. Selected hybrids can grafted into rootstock varieties which has been proven to be resistant to soil borne problems and have strong root system. Grafting could also facilitate propagation of hard to root varieities.

A Unique Thai-Bali Landscape Design at Mega Orchids, MSBF Compound, Quezon City By Norberto Bautsita Landscaping is the art and science of rearranging plants, rocks, sculptures, trees in an existing area, making it look attractive and at the same time functional. Pathways, lighting, drainage and areas for recreation is included in the overall design to provide an a wholesome appearance to the once dull or monotonous garden landscape. If you are looking some particular garden design tips, one could visit the show area of the Mega Orchids at the Manila Seedling Bank Foundation along Quezon Avenue corner EDSA in

3

Quezon City . It is owned by Ms. Cynthia Isidro, a well known grower of Dendrobium orchids from Bulacan. She used Bali or Thai stone and ceramic sculptures in her landscape, making her store very appealing and attractive to orchid buyers as well as children. Then, stones and pebbles are incorporated in order to cover or hold the soil and stepping stones are placed in the pathway. Colorful bromeliads, aglaonema, sanseviera, philodendrons, dendrobium orchids, and birds nest ferns are inserted among the stone sculptures, making it a truly splendid garden. Some areas of the ground are covered with mundo grass in order to hide the

soil. There are also stone tables and chairs with umbrellas to provide shade. Ponds or stone basins with floating lettuce lily are found on corners to provide humidity to plants. Metal chimes are also hung among the sides of the garden to provide the tickling and clinging sound of metal in the surrounding. For tall plants, palms, tree ferns are used in the back of the garden to provide background plants. Large hanging staghorn ferns are suspended along the post or ceiling of the garden. The garden seems lively due to various shapes of stone sculptures like smiling frogs, singing children, small playful elephants, storks, round marble eggs, praying Chinese children and a

4

touch of Buddhism. Most of the statues used are collections, not to mention other Thai garden artifacts which will blend well in a well-planned garden One could really enjoy and learn a lot of garden design tips when you visit this garden. It is open to the public for free.

THE PHILIPPINE GRANDE STAGHORN FERN by: Adrian S. Go Among the native plant species of the Philippines, the “Grande” Staghorn Fern or the Platycerium grande is a real showstopper! So intriguing and unique, the plant resembles like a huge “Man-of-War” jellyfish hanging onto the upper branches of trees. Some huge specimens reported to reach over 15 feet in length! Most notable were the specimens at the Davao Shrine (El Santo Niño Del Prague) and the Philippine Eangle’s Park of Davao City in Mindanao. The Philippine Grande Staghorn Fern or Platycerium grande with pendent fertile fronds. Habitat & Distribution. Platycerium grande belongs to the fern group. It grows as an epiphyte, meaning tree dwelling and attaching itself onto the upper branches of trees to receive bright filtered light and moderate air circulation. This specimen can still be found along the eastern portion of the Mindanao and Visayan islands. It has a wide distribution in the Agusan, Cotobato and Davao provinces. Plant Structure. The Philippine “Grande” Staghorn Fern has interesting features, which includes: short rhizome stem, large leafy growths and fibrous roots. The leafy growths are in two distinct forms and are positioned in pairs arising near the apex of the rhizome. These are arranged alternately each one becoming larger, basically covering or replacing the previous one. The two different leafy fronds are as follows: a. Shield Fronds. These leafy fronds are held sideways and upright. Each one developing alternately, slowly but eventually almost completely covering or replacing the older frond, leaving the top in an open basket form. This way, the falling leaves and other organic debris are caught inside the basket, forming the shield frond. Oftentimes, the enclosed older frond decays and becomes part of the organic compost pile within the shield frond. The organic matter becomes the source of nourishment and is needed by the plant to root extensively. The clasping shield frond conserves the water inside and maintains it for a long time between the layers of fronds, roots and organic debris. This plant species has evolved in such a way that it has developed a system of water conservation and how to

5

obtain nutrients even in long dry periods. Each shield frond can reach up to 2 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. b. Fertile Fronds. These are branching leafy fronds that are held pendently on a semicircular stance. Each frond develop alternately and slowly also replacing the previous one usually during the months of May, June and July. The fertile frond initially produces 2 main branches that produces a secondary branch wherein 2 sporangial patches are located (underneath the surface). There are up to 6 or more further branching of the fronds producing ribbon-like effect. The overall length of a fertile frond may reach over 3 meters. The sporangial patches would mature in 3-4 months and it usually turn dark brown in color. The sporangia will then eject into the air several thousands of tiny dustlike spores. Over-all, the plant really resembles like a green “Man-of-War jellyfish that hangs on tree branches. How the Spore Germinates. Once ejected from the parent plant, the spores takes flight as it gets carried by the wind. If the spore lands where there is ample moisture and light, it germinates into a tiny heart-shaped plant, one cell layer thick, 1 cm in diameter, which is called a prothallus. At the same time, it produces tiny root-like extensions called rhizoids to anchor itself in place. After 3 months, the prothallus develops several female organs called archegonia, each containing a single egg, and a male organ called antheridia, each containing several sperms. When water moistens the prothallus, the film of water on its surface and underneath help the sperm swim directly to the eggs and fertilize them. Within a few days, several new growths start to develop on the prothallus depending on how many egg cells were fertilized. Each growth will take on nourishment from the prothallus until it produces its own roots. The first few leaves produced look like the seed leaves of other plants, and do not appear like the parent plant’s but eventually new leaves will form closely resembling those of the adult plant. When the plant already has approximately 8-10 leaves and several roots,

6

it can be detached from the prothallus and the rest of the young plants as it can be planted individually. Photo (left) shows a still very young staghorn fern plantlet clasping a tree fern slab. NOTE the clasping behavior of its shield frond around the tree fern slab. Growing Conditions. Platycerium grande plants are highly adaptable to a much wider range of conditions and are grown successfully out of its habitat. The plants thrive well in many gardens and nurseries in the Philippines and abroad. The plant will continue to thrive as long as it is provided with 50% of filtered sunlight, 50-70% humidity, temperature of 70-89 oF and regular watering. Make sure that the root base is firmly attached onto a tree branch so it may soon produce several root mesh that will anchor the periodically water-filled plants. It is necessary to keep humus and other organic materials inside the shield so that the plant will regularly receive nourishment. Occasional or regular feeding of nutrients fertilizer would of course produce a more robust or vigorous growth of fronds and roots. Water the plant well inside the shield fronds and roots. Hang this fern species to at least 8 to 10 feet above the ground to allow the pendent fertile fronds to develop and extend fully without getting bruised by other plants below. Elevate the plant up further if the fertile fronds are nearly touching the ground.

7

Admiring the Doñas by Ma. Eloisa E. Hernandez

The Philippines is proud to have notable ladies who have considerably contributed to the task of nation building. Among them are President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo, former President Corazon C. Aquino, First Ladies Amelita Ramos and Imelda R. Marcos. Today, such names are not only synonymous with political prestige but are now Hybrid names for indigenous species, Mussaenda. Collectively known as the Doñas, Philippine Mussaendas were named after the First Ladies of the Philippines. This is considered as the country’s most important contribution to the ornamental industry. They are likewise regarded as the “centennial” breakthrough in Philippine Horticulture. In fact, they have became popular not only in the Philippines but are also now gaining recognition abroad.

8

Characteristic of Mussaendas The first Mussaenda, M. philippica var. aurorae Sulit, was named in honor of the wife of President Manuel L. Quezon,. In 1915, Hugh Curran and Mamerto Sulit discovered it in Mt. Makiling in UP Los Baños. Recent hybrids were now coined on Filipino synonyms of the word “muse” such as ‘Diwata’, ‘Mutya’, ‘Lakambini’, and ‘Diyosa’. The “Doñas” are admired for their colorful sepals or modified leaves either in red, white, or pink. Also, the hybrid possesses continuous blooming habit, almost throughout the year. They are less floriferous from months of January to March. They are commonly used for landscape. Potted Mussaendas With the idea of coming-up with a substitute or compliment to the poinsettias which grow only during the Christmas season, the Institute of Plant Breeding of the College of Agriculture (IPBCA), University of the Philippines Los Baños (UPLB), developed a technology for potted Mussaendas and propagating varieties that are short-stemmed, proliferous, and easy-to-root. The study on the Development of Colored Multi-Petaloid Mussaendas Suited for Potted Ornamentals, conducted by Dr. Simeona V. Siar of IPB, aimed to develop indigenous ornamentals such as Mussaenda as substitute and alternative to the traditional and introduced potted ornamentals such as poinsettias and chrysanthemum. This included the: (1) hybridization and development of outstanding plants; and (2) evaluation and mass propagation of outstanding plants. The Bureau of Agricultural Research (BAR), a coordinating and funding agency supporting R&D breakthroughs in agriculture and fisheries, supported the study from October 2001 to September 2002 and from February to December 2006 under its High-impact projects. Mussaenda cultivars used in the hybridization stage include varieties of red (’Doña Eva’, ‘Doña Trining’, ‘Lakambini’, and ‘Florida’), white (’Mutya’, ‘Doña Aurora’, ‘Diwata’ and ‘Maria Makiling’), and the colored varieties (’Baby Aurora’, ‘Doña Pacencia’, ‘Queen Sirikit’, and ‘Doña Esperanza’). Protocol in producing potted flowering Mussaenda 1. Harvest flower initials from 6 to 7 am or late afternoon. Healthy shoot tips should be 4-5 inches long and with 3-5 nodes. 2. Put the harvested shoots in clear plastic bag to avoid desiccation. 3. Remove older leaves and leave two to three pairs of nodal leaves. 4. Cut the basal end of the cuttings diagonally with a sharp pruning shear. 5. Dip the basal end portion of cuttings in a rooting hormone, Quick Root powder. 6. Plant two to three cuttings in four-inch pots with a mixture of part coir dust and one-half part sand. 7. Apply one tablespoon Osmocote (a slow release fertilizer).

9