Unified Proposal

John Hoffman Troop 156 Eagle Scout Project Proposal Rain Garden Construction At Flick Park, Glenview, IL

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Table of Contents Section I.

Page(s)

Core Proposal a. b. c. d.

3 3 3 4 4 5 6 8

Project Overview and Current State Purpose and Organizations Benefiting Project Details Detailed Plan i. Preparations for Planting ii. Workday 1 iii. Workday 2 iv. Workday 3 v. Workday 4&5

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II. Letter of Confirmation of Duties III. Before Pictures IV. General Placement

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V. Rain Garden Rendition VI. Equipment and Supplies VII. Sample Nursery Donation Letter VIII. Sample Nursery Thank You Letter IX. Project Flyer X. Sample Sign-In Sheet XI. Estimated Man-Hours XII. Project Timeline XIII. Project Log XIV. Nursery Contact Sheet XV. Map to Glenbrook Hospital

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e. Safety f. Financing the Project

APPENDIX: Research Materials

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Project Overview/Current State: For my Eagle project, I propose to plant a rain garden at Flick Park in Glenview, Illinois, located at 3600 Glenview Road. Rainwater is currently directed from the pool and park area into a drainage ditch on the west side of the pool that guides water around the pool into a detention pond on the north side of the pool. This detention pond holds water and releases it slowly into the Glenview sewer system at a rate that helps prevent the municipal sewer system from being overwhelmed. The system serves its purpose, and is fairly effective, but it is basic and not aesthetically appealing. The rain garden would improve the efficiency of the current drainage system, and also make it more environmentally friendly by filtering and cleaning the water. The area around the drainage ditch is very popular for recreational activities, and the popular area would be a prime place to demonstrate the aesthetic and practical capabilities of rain gardens to the general public. My proposed project is to plant a rain garden along a stretch of the drainage area that leads to the drainage basin. It will involve preparing the area by clearing the area of existing “rip-rap” and tall grass which is present at the site of the main inlet of water for the drainage area, marking the area of the garden then roto-tilling the soil to loosen it, then planting seeds and plants and finally this project will also involve watering the garden for two consecutive weekends following the planting of the garden.

Purpose and Organizations Benefiting: There are multiple purposes for this rain garden. 1. This garden will improve the aesthetic nature of the area in which it is planted, which will hopefully draw more people to the area for recreational or other reasons. This aspect of the garden will directly benefit all people who attend Flick Park as well as the park district, since the rain garden has the potential to bring in revenue through attracting more people to Flick Park and its pool. 2. The Village of Glenview is giving grants to Glenview citizens to encourage people to plant rain gardens; this could serve as an example to anyone looking to plant a rain garden, and serve as a source of inspiration for them as well. This means that the rain garden will benefit not only the environment but Glenview residents who are looking to plant a rain garden as well. 3. This rain garden will function, meaning that, as a rain garden, it will alleviate some of the pressures on the municipal sewer systems by absorbing large amounts of rain water and filtering the rain water that goes through it, which lowers the level of polluted rain water in the area. This means that the rain garden will directly benefit the local environment as well as Glenview residents who may experience storm sewer backup and blockage less frequently.

Project Details: 3

A. Size: The rain garden will take up a rectangular area of 10 feet across and 150 feet long. B. Location: The garden will run along the west side of the pool. It will begin where there are presently “rip-rap” rocks located at the bottom of an embankment that runs alongside the west side of the pool-house/pool. C. Plants: Plants will be obtained from two to three sources. 1) Plugs: The park district has purchased a ¼ acre “Sedge Meadow Seed Mix” from the JFNew plant supplier. They will plant some of the seeds at a local nursery (Community Park West) in an area fenced off to prevent the seedlings from being eaten by predators so that they can provide approximately 500 small plants to be planted in the garden. The types of plants included in the seed mix can be seen on Page 18. 2) Seeds: Other color-specific seed mixes will also be purchased by the park district so that certain areas of the garden can be planted with seeds that will result in pockets of color. I will consult with the Park District’s gardening manager to confirm the layout of these areas. 3) Soliciting donations from Local Nurseries: This will be a secondary method to acquire plants for the project. While the Park District is willing to provide ALL plugs and seeds for this project, they would appreciate any donations to the effort. Therefore, I will fax as many local nurseries that I can find to solicit plant donations to be received prior to the planting work dates. The donation request letter, along with the list of potential plants or seeds, is included in this packet on Pages 17. D. Layout: The proposed layout of the garden area with its areas of color can be found on Page 14. The layout will be finalized with the Park District gardener before proceeding.

Detailed Plan: Preparations for Planting In the weeks prior to Workday 1: I will solicit plant donations from local nurseries, keeping a chart of those contacted and the results of the contact. The chart can be found on Page 26. I will ask that any donations of seeds or seedlings be delivered to my home, located at 1516 Meadow Lane in Glenview, for storage prior to the workdays. Any nurseries that donate will be sent a thank you card.

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A representative of the Glenview Park District (Mike Moorman) will be monitoring the planting and maintenance of the seeds at Community Park West. The maintenance of these plants is not one of my responsibilities, but I will check on them from time to time and note their progress or lack thereof. If they do not grow well, the Park District has agreed that the garden may be planted entirely in seeds. I will consult with the Park District’s gardening coordinator about the layout of the garden in regards to the location of pockets of color. I will recruit workers. I will need at least 10 workers throughout the day on both workdays. I will put up flyers throughout Glenbrook South High School, I will advertise my project at scout meetings and pass around a signup sheet, and I will call both scouts and friends to both solicit and confirm their participation and when they will participate. I will also remind all workers prior to the workday to bring sturdy gardening gloves, and I will call workers specifically to confirm any tools which they can provide. See the attached flyer and sign up sheet, on Pages 20 and 21. To ensure that we have all of the tools necessary to carry out the project, I will request that the workers who are supplying tools to bring them to my house (1516 Meadow Ln, Glenview, IL 60025) before the workdays. I will obtain the equipment necessary to carry out this project. See the attached Equipment chart on Page 16. Workday 1: Friday, April 18, 2008 Times TBA (one shift, no lunch, very short day) PRIMARY OBJECTIVES: a) Measuring out and marking the boundaries of the garden area in preparation for the Park District to roto-till the area; b) Restoring the rip-rap at the water inlet at the southeast corner of the garden. Prior to workday one I will recruit three scouts to help me, calling the night before to confirm their commitment and the place and time to meet. I will also confirm with Mr. Fred Gullen (Superintendent of Park Services) the reservation of the fieldhouse bathrooms to ensure that they will be open and available for all three workdays. I will arrive at the garden site an hour before the time the workers are scheduled to arrive to meet with the Park District staff who will be bringing the roto-tillers and will be providing a roto-tilling service. I will bring the cooler of water and soda for the workers, and set up a card table with sign in/sign out information. I will also bring a comprehensive first aid kit.

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Once the workers arrive I will give a short talk on what I expect to achieve for the day, how to plant seeds effectively, and a short safety talk about the tools they will be using. I will also remind the workers to sign in. The Park District will provide roto-tilling services to loosen the soil at the site at a mutually agreed upon time. Before this is done, I will use the workers to help me locate and mark the area of the rain garden. The southeast corner of the garden is marked by a water inlet, easily located amongst a small area of tall grass and stones (rip-rap). I will have two workers measure out 10 feet due west of the inlet, using a compass to check the direction. I will mark that line with spray paint, being careful not to spray on top of the measuring tape. From the corners, we will measure 150 feet due north, again spray painting to mark those lines. Finally, we will mark the 10 foot line running east/west that forms the northern boundary of the garden. While the tall grass in the inlet area will be retained, the rip-rap rocks present in the area surrounding this inlet have become partially buried from erosion over time. I will direct my workers to dig out the rocks, being careful not to greatly disturb the tall grass. Once they have been dug out, the excess dirt will be brushed off with towels. Once the rocks are out of the ground, I will direct one worker to use a shovel to move the dirt around to soften the edges of the holes so that the rocks can be replaced without sinking right back into the holes. After that has been completed, my workers will lay the rocks back into the area, making sure that they are more exposed. Additional rocks provided by the Park District will be added to expand the area so that the rocks help to prevent erosion in the area. After the area has been marked and the existing rip-rap area has been restored, I will dismiss all but one of my workers, keeping a buddy to stay and watch the roto-tilling process. Cleanup: • Roto-tillers will be cleaned by park-district Staff • Workers who brought tools will be asked to take them home when they leave. If the tools are needed longer than they are staying for, I will keep the tools and drop them off at their house after Workday 3 has ended on Sunday, April 20th. • Tools which are not being taken by workers or by the Park District Staff will be cleaned by wiping excess dirt off with old towels supplied by myself. Workday 2: Saturday, April 19, 2008 PRIMARY OBJECTIVES: a) Seed the entire rain garden; b) Create a path of paving stones c) Place an erosion blanket down over the planted seeds d) Water garden

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Shift Times: Shift 1 9:00 am –11:30 am Lunch 11:30 am – 12:00 pm Shift 2 12:00 pm – 2:00 pm I will arrive at the garden site at 8:00 AM to meet with the Park District staff who will be bringing the seeds. I will bring the cooler of water and soda for the workers, and set up a card table with sign in/sign out information. I will also bring a comprehensive first aid kit. Once the workers arrive I will give a short talk on what I expect to achieve for the day, how to plant seeds effectively, and a short safety talk about the tools they will be using. I will also remind the workers to sign in. After the ground has been roto-tilled, it must be raked to break up any large clumps of soil and to break down the surface into small particles. Also, any large clumps of grass will need to be manually removed by the workers who are raking. The grass will be disposed of in paper yard-waste bags. Thus, I will ask half of the workers to begin raking at the southern end of the garden, while the other half begins working at the northern end, breaking up clumps of soil, smoothing the surface and removing grass. Once they meet in the middle, we will be ready to begin sowing the seeds. While the workers are raking the soil, I will begin marking the areas that have already been raked and that are to receive color-specific seed mixes with spray paint, using the measurements as shown on my planting layout as a guide. Once the workers have finished raking, I will assign 2-3 workers to sow the seeds in each area. Using the broadcast method of sowing seeds, the workers will be instructed to simply scatter them evenly throughout the marked area, and then to gently rake the soil to help them sink off the soil surface. The Park District has asked that a walkway be built across the garden approximately halfway down so that people may cross the area without having to walk to one end or the other. The path will be 2 feet wide and laid with flat paving stones provided by the Park District. I will instruct my workers to measure 75 feet down one side of the garden to determine the location for the path. I will look over the area to make sure that it has been raked smooth. The workers will lay out the paving stones leaving about an inch in between to form a path 2 feet wide and 10 feet across. When laying them in place, they will be instructed to lay the stone where it is to be located, and move it back and forth gently a few times to work it down into the top layer of the soil to ensure that it is stable. Once the entire garden has been sown with seeds and the paving stones placed for the path, the garden will be ready to be covered with the erosion blanket. The erosion blanket will help to keep the soil in place while being porous enough to let water and sunlight in so that the seeds can grow into plants. I will have my workers carry the roll the erosion blanket to the southern edge of the garden. We will move gently over the garden, unrolling the blanket until we reach the stone path halfway down. At this point, we will

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cut the blanket and move the roll to the other side of the pathway to repeat the process. In the meantime, I will have a second group of workers putting in stakes every 10 feet down each edge of the blanket. This process will continue until the entire garden has been covered. Finally, the entire garden must be watered to start the germination process. I will have my workers hook up the hoses to the Park District water supply at the pool house to water the garden using a light spray, until all of the soil has been wet. They will then turn off the water, disconnect the hoses, and roll up. At 11:30 I will serve the pizza that my mother will have picked up from Little Caesars. We will then break for half an hour for lunch until the second shift people come. I will remind the workers both arriving and leaving to sign in and out. Workday 3: Sunday, April 20, 2008 PRIMARY OBJECTIVES: The primary objectives of this workday will be to a) Plant all plugs b) Spread mulch c) Water entire garden Shift Times: Shift 1 11:00 am – 12:30 pm Lunch 12:30 pm – 1:00 pm Shift 2 1:00 pm – 4:00 pm The park district will deliver the plugs and the mulch to the site prior to 7:00 am on this workday. I have computed that the amount of mulch needed is about 125 cubic feet (just under 14 cubic yards) to spread it around the garden in a uniform thickness of about 1 inch. I will ask for 15 yd3 to be sure that we have enough. I will arrive at 9:30 am with the tools that I am providing, the sign in/sign out sheet (with a card table and a few pens), a comprehensive first aid kit, a water cooler, and two garden hoses. I will set up and then sort the plugs by type of plant. Once the first workers arrive, I will ask them to help me mark where the plugs are to be planted. Again using the spray paint and a tape measurer, I will use the measurements noted on my layout guide to locate where each plug is to go and mark it lightly with a small circle of spray paint. Once the area has been marked, and more workers have arrived, I will repeat what I did on the first workday—give the workers a small safety talk and remind them to sign in and sign out, and instruct them about the correct method for planting plugs. I will also show them where each type of plug is located. Instructions for planting plugs:

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1) Carve out a small hole through the erosion blanket (~5 inch diameter) with a garden trowel. 2) Dig a hole deep enough so that the top of the plug is even with the dirt level after it is planted. 3) After the plug is placed in the hole, pack dirt around it firmly. Starting at the south end of the garden, I will point out each area where plugs are to be planted and assign workers to plant those plugs, letting them know which type of plant goes where. We will work until the lunch break and start again immediately afterward until the task has been completed. At 12:30 pm, the first shift ends, and we break for a half an hour for lunch. I will again have my mother pick up the pizza at Little Caesars and be ready for the break at 12:30. After all plugs are planted I will instruct the workers to evenly distribute the mulch layer to about an inch thickness on top of the erosion blanket, and in-between the paving stones of the path. Instructions for how to evenly distribute mulch layer: 1. To transport mulch to an area, I will designate six scouts to load wheelbarrows full of mulch to designated areas around the garden and to dump the mulch there (if the mulch is dumped directly on the plants it may kill them). 2. Once the mulch is dumped, the workers will CAREFULLY begin to spread the mulch with their hands where the area of the garden has plugs planted, and for stretches of seeded area which have no plant parts sticking out of the ground, using the back of a simple garden rake will be more effective and faster. 3. During the mulching process I will do quick visual checks to determine whether some areas of mulch need to be more evenly distributed or not. Once the mulch has been laid, I will again have the workers water the entire garden as they did on the previous workday to continue helping the germination process. At this point, the garden installation will be complete. I will have workers gather all tools and equipment to take to the cars and thank them for their help. Workdays 4 and 5 (Saturday, April 26 and Saturday, May 3, 2008) PRIMARY OBJECTIVE: To water the entire garden Time: 10:00 AM – 11:00 AM (or until watering is complete) The Park District has requested that I water the plants for two consecutive weekends after planting. Prior to these days, I will enlist and confirm the help of three workers via telephone to water the garden.

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I will arrive at the site at 9:30 AM to ensure that all of the hoses are set up by the park district, and if there is a problem with anything, I will call Fred Gullen, and if he is unavailable, Ken Wexler. I will bring a clipboard and pen for the sign-in/sign-out sheet and I will bring a comprehensive first aid kit and three bottles of water for my workers and for myself. Upon arrival, workers will be instructed that the area should be sprayed with a decent amount of water to wet the soil, but not so much water that there is an excessive amount of runoff, which could wash away seeds or damage planted plants. The watering process will take about an hour, and when the process is complete, I will thank and dismiss my workers. The hoses will be left as they were upon my arrival (coiled up by the spout).

Safety: The workers will be briefed each day about the tools that they will be using, and how to safely handle and act around them, specifically: • The tools are not toys, and should not be treated as such; they should be handled carefully and used for only the jobs that they were designed. • There should be no horseplay with or around the tools. • There will be a comprehensive first aid kit onsite, which will be adequate for most common injuries that occur onsite (i.e. Minor cuts and scrapes) • A map and directions to the nearest hospital will be onsite as well, and has been included in this packet. • Water and refreshments will also be provided to prevent dehydration. • The field house will be open for resting and bathroom needs. • They should be dressed in proper attire for this type of physical labor (long pants to protect from insects and any thorns, and work gloves to protect their hands)

Financing the Project: All equipment, food, seeds, plants and other services will either be supplied by the Park District, fellow workers, or willing nurseries.

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Before Pictures Main drain, which introduces most of the water into the existing system

The area around the main inlet drain ↓

This will be the area where the rain garden will be planted, alongside the pool ↓

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The current drain pipe which exists about 20 feet from the start of the garden area will need to be recovered (Rip-rap rocks removed and cleaned, new riprap rocks added to prevent erosion, etc.)

↑This is a view of the drainage basin, the place where water from the rain garden would eventually end up, and where water from the current system pools and is gradually released into the sewer system.

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Satellite Image of the Area Note: this image is outdated, and the area is now fully developed. This image serves as a better visual representation of where the garden will be in relation to the rest of the area.

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Name

Description/Purpose

Roto-Tiller Garden Shovels/Spades Work Gloves

Tills and airates the top layer of soil For digging small holes to plant the plugs or seeds To protect workers' hands while working

Wheel Barrows

To transport plugs to the area that they will be planted To keep refreshments cool To keep the workers hydrated and cool For lunch both days

Cooler and Ice Water Pizza First Aid Kit Mulch Seeds

Comprehensive To cover the soil after planting and seeding To plant in lieu of "plugs" (Sedge Meadow Mix from JFNew Catalogue)

Quantity

How will it be obtained?

2 15

Supplied by Park District Supplied by workers

15 pairs will be onsite 2

Supplied by workers Supplied by Park District

1 Cooler 15 Gallons

Supplied by my parents Supplied by my parents

Depends on Amount of workers 1 375 ft cubed Quantity to broadcast over 1500 sq. ft ~500

Donated by my parents Troop First Aid Kit Supplied by Park District Supplied by Park District

"Plugs"

Actual plants

"Rip Rap" rocks

To serve as a small pathway that cuts through the width of the garden, and to airate the water that flows through there To mark garden area To evenly spread the Mulch Set-up, recording sign-in and signout information, etc.

20 stones

Donated by various nurseries and obtained from planting seeds at Community Park West Provided by the Park District

4 bottles 10 N/A

Provided by Park District Supplied by workers Provided by Myself

To build a pathway halfway down the garden To measure lengths

25

Provided by Park District

2

Supplied by workers

To cut erosion blanket To clean tools after project

2 5

Supplied by myself Supplied by Myself (already have them) Supplied by workers Supplied by Park District

Spray Paint Garden Rakes Card Table, Pens, Pencils, Clipboard, etc. Flat Paving Stones Tape Measure (25 feet long) Scissors Old Towels Cell Phone Hoses and Nozzles Compass Yard Waste Bags

For emergencies To water plants after the planting of the rain garden To maintain direction when measuring To dispose of the grass after rototilling

3 3, 100 ft. Hoses 1 10

Supplied by myself Supplied by Park District

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***SAMPLE NURSERY DONATION LETTER*** January 5, 2008 Lurvey Garden Center 2550 East Dempster Street Des Plaines, Illinois 60016 Dear Jean Bragdon, (Representative of nursery—in this case, the manager) My name is John Hoffman, and I am currently seeking donations towards my Eagle Scout project. Attained by only 2% of scouts, the Eagle rank is the highest and most distinguished rank in Boy Scouting. The Eagle project is one of the last steps on the road to Eagle. The purpose of the Eagle project is to demonstrate the scout’s leadership skills while benefiting the community. It requires a minimum of 100 hours to complete, and usually is completed over a period of several months. For my project, I will be installing a rain garden at Flick Park, a public park in Glenview, Illinois. The rain garden will have approximately 1,500 plants, most of which we hope to receive from donations from nurseries like yours. Enclosed with this facsimile is a list of plants that I am looking to include in the garden. The garden will be planted around Arbor Day this year. However, I need to know as soon as possible whether or not your nursery might be willing to donate so that I can include any possible help in my project proposal. Please provide information about any plants you could provide. Any help your nursery can give would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you!

John Hoffman, Troop 156 Home: Cell: Fax: E-mail:

1-847-724-4871 1-847-757-5850 1-847-730-3591 [email protected]

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REQUESTED PLANTS Scientific Name

Common Name

Height *

Color

Soil*

Sunlight*

Permanent Grasses/Sedges Calamagrostis canadensis Carex comosa Carex lurida Carex frankii Carex vulpinoidea Elymus virginicus Glyceria striata Juncus effusus Leersia oryzoides Panicum virgatum Scirpus atrovirens Scirpus pendulus Scirpus pungens Scirpus validus Spartina pectinata

Blue Joint Grass Bristly Sedge Bottlebrush Sedge Bristly Cattail Sedge Brown Fox Sedge Virginia Wild Rye Fowl Manna Grass Common Rush Rice Cut Grass Prairie Switch Grass Dark Green Rush Red Bulrush Chairmakers Rush Great Bulrush Prairie Cord Grass

2 2 2 1 2 2 1 1 2 3 3 2 2 4 3

4 3 3 2 3 4 5 4 4 5 5 4 5 8 7

Green Green Green Green Green Green Green Green Green Green Green Green Green Green Green

Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet Medium Wet Wet Wet Medium Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet

F/P F/P F/P F/P/S F/P F/P/S F/P F/P F/P F F F F F F

Temporary Cover Agrostis alba Avena sativa Phleum pratense

Redtop Seed Oats Timothy

2 2 3

2 2 3

Green Green Green

Medium Medium Medium

F F F/P

Forbs Alisma spp. Angelica atropurpurea Asclepias incarnata Aster novae-angliae Aster puniceus Aster simplex Aster umbellatus Bidens cernua Cassia hebecarpa Coreopsis tripteris Eupatorium maculatum Eupatorium perfoliatum Filipendula rubra Gentiana andrewsii Helenium autumnale Iris virginica shrevei Liatris spicata Lobelia cardinalis Lobelia siphilitica Ludwigia alternifolia Physostegia virginiana Pycnanthemum virginianum Sagittaria latifolia Silphium perfoliatum Solidago rugosa Sparganium eurycarpum Spiraea alba Spiraea tomentosa Verbena hastata Vernonia fasciculata Zizia aurea

Water Plantain, various Great Angelica Swamp Milkweed New England Aster Swamp Aster Panicled Aster Flat-top Aster Nodding Swamp Marigold Wild Senna Tall Coreopsis Spotted Joe Pye Weed Common Boneset Queen of the Prairie Bottle Gentian Sneezeweed Blue Flag Iris Marsh Blazing Star Cardinal Flower Great Blue Lobelia Seedbox False Dragonhead Virginia Mountain Mint Broad-Leaf Arrowhead Cup Plant Rough Goldenrod Common Bur Reed Meadowsweet Steeple Bush Blue Vervain Common Ironweed Golden Alexanders

2 4 3 3 3 3 1 1 3 4 4 3 3 1 3 2 3 2 1 2 2 1 1 3 2 2 3 2 3 3 1

4 # 5 6 6 5 4 3 5 8 7 5 6 3 5 3 5 5 4 3 5 3 4 # 5 6 6 5 6 7 3

White White Pink Violet Violet White White Yellow Yellow Yellow Purple Purple Pink Blue Yellow Blue Purple Red Blue Yellow Pink White White Yellow Yellow Green White Pink Purple Purple Yellow

Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet Medium Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet Medium Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet Medium Medium Wet Wet Wet Wet Wet Medium

F F/P F/P F/P F P/S F/P F F/P F/P F F F F/P F/P F/P F F/P F/P F F F/P F/P F/P F F F/P F/P F F/P F/P/S

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Dear (insert name of the representative of the Nursery), I wanted to personally thank (insert nursery name) for its contribution to my eagle project. The contribution of (insert specific list of plant or seed contributions) helped make the rain garden a success. The rain garden is planted at Flick Park in Glenview, IL. Hopefully you will have a chance to visit the area in a few months when the seeds have a chance to develop. The garden is 150 feet long by 10 feet wide, and will serve the purpose of improving the existing drainage system of the park in an environmentally friendly and aesthetically appealing manner. Here are some pictures of planting day: Insert Pictures

Insert Pictures

Again, thank you very much! Sincerely,

John Hoffman

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REAL MEN PLANT

RAIN GARDENS Wanna be “GREEN”? Wanna make something that EVERYONE will see? John Hoffman needs YOUR help!! Come to John’s Eagle Project: Planting a Rain Garden at Flick Park

When? Friday, April 18th (Roto-tilling and laying out erosion blanket) Saturday, April 19th(Planting Seeds) Sunday, April 20th(Planting Plants and spreading mulch) FREE PIZZA LUNCH!!!

TELL YOUR FRIENDS! Call John to SIGN UP!!! 1-847-724-4871 [email protected] 21

Sample Sign-in Sheet Name

Time In

Time Out

E-mail

Total Hours

Estimated Man Hours 22

Category

Hours

Concept Development

4

Writing Proposal

24.2

Communication: Meetings and Phonecalls and E-mails

6.5

Recruiting Workday 1: (Staking out garden area, cleaning area before roto-tilling monitoring roto-tilling process, setting up erosion blanket etc.)

3

4 workers x 3 hrs

12

Workday 2: Planting plugs, small amount of seeding

10 workers x 4 hrs + 1 worker x 6 hrs

46

Workday 3: Seeding and Mulching

10 workers x 4 hrs + 1 worker x 6 hrs

46

Workday 4: Watering

3 workers x 1hr + 1 worker x 1.5 hrs

4.5

Workday 5: Watering

3 workers x 1hr + 1 worker x 1.5 hrs

4.5

Project Evaluation and Writeup

2

Total Estimated Manhours:

152.7

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Project Timeline Date

Task

Winter-Spring 2007

Come up with formalized project concept

Spring 2007

Preliminary meeting with Mr. Gullen and Mr. Wexler to discuss project

Spring 2007

Review Project with Mr. Handler (District Eagle Project Coordinator)

Spring 2007 until January 2008

Writeup in-depth project proposal with guidance from Mrs. Jeanne Barnas and with frequent communication with and input from Mr. Wexler and Mr. Gullen

By January 31st

Finalize project with Mr. Gullen, Mr. Wexler and Mrs. Barnas, Have Mr. Gullen sign letter

By February 7th

Call Mr. Wolfson and request a meeting for proposal presentation to troop committee

By February 15th

Make Presentation to Troop Committee to be able to get it approved in time for submission to March roundtable

By February 21st

Upon the approval of the troop committee, submit 3 copies of complete proposal to District Eagle Board and request permission to present the project at the March roundtable

March 12th

Presentation to District Eagle Board

March 12th-April 18th

Post project flyers, call scouts and friends, make announcements at scout meetings, RECRUIT for project days

April 18th

Workday 1

April 19th

Workday 2

April 20th

Workday 3

May 3rd

Maintenance

May 10th

Maintenance

By May 17th

Get signature from Mr. Gullen stating that he approves of the project that I have carried out and that it is to his satisfaction

By May 31st

Project Evaluation

Note:

In the event of a "rain-out" on a project day, these workdates (April 18-May 10) will simply be moved 2 weeks later.

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Project Log

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Date

Activity

Other Participants

Location

Summary

Time (Min)

26-Apr-07

Meeting

Mr. Gullen, Mr. Wexler, Bio Student

Flick Park

Initial meeting to discuss general ideas and scope for the project

75

28-Apr-07

Meeting

Mrs. Barnas

My House

Discuss project requirements and analyze Rain Garden idea

75

28-Apr-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

First Draft of Core Writeup

120

29-Apr-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

First Draft of Core Writeup

120

1-May-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

First Draft of Core Writeup

120

1-Jul-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

Editing and preparing for meeting with Mrs. Barnas

60

2-Jul-07

Meeting

Mrs. Barnas

Barnas' House

Checkup meeting with Mrs. Barnas to discuss project progress and writeup development

50

2-Jul-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

Editing

90

4-Jul-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

Editing

60

12-Jul-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

Editing

40

13-Jul-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

Editing

60

25-Jul-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

Editing

40

26-Jul-07

Meeting

Mrs. Barnas, Mr. Wexler, Mr. Gullen

1930 Prairie St.

Meeting to discuss project in detail and to clarify certain aspects of plan

60

26-Jul-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

Editing and adding supplementary material

100

14-Sep-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

Editing and adding supplementary material

40

26

28-Sep-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

Editing and adding supplementary material

60

12-Oct-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

Editing and adding supplementary material

40

13-Oct-07

Meeting

Mrs. Barnas

Barnas' House

Meeting with Mrs. Barnas to discuss first draft of writeup

60

13-Oct-07

Writeup

N/A

My House

60 40

15-Oct-07

20

2-Dec-07

60

12-Jan-08 Finalizing everything, gathering detailed information about specific questions, creating a detailed rendition of the rain garden, researching plants, etc.

13-Jan-08 15-Jan-08 23-Jan-08

25 40 25 50

24-Jan-08

40

25-Jan-08

60

27-Jan-08

28-Jan-08

Meeting

Mr. Gullen, Mr. Wexler, Mrs. Barnas

1930 Prairie St.

Discussed finalizations to the writeup

45

3-Feb-08

Writeup

N/A

My House

Editing

40

26-Feb-08

Meeting

Mrs. Barnas

Barnas' House

To finalize the proposal and get it ready for Committee approval

26

1-Mar-08

Writeup

N/A

My House

To make final edits as suggested by the Committee, organize writeup, and HAND IT TO MR. HANDLER

40

Total Time in Minutes:

1841

Total Time in Hours

30.68

Nursery Contact Sheet 27

Date

Nursery

Phone or Fax (P/F)

Comments, Progress

Hospital Directions

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DIRECTIONS TO GLENBROOK HOSPITAL FROM FLICK PARK

Directions Distance Total Est. Time: 5 minutes Total Est. Distance: 1.84 miles 1: Start out going EAST on GLENVIEW RD toward REVERE RD. 0.2 miles 2: Turn LEFT onto GREENWOOD RD. 0.3 miles 3: Turn LEFT onto E LAKE AVE. 0.8 miles 4: Turn RIGHT onto PFINGSTEN RD. 0.3 miles 5: End at 2100 Pfingsten Rd (Glenbrook Hospital) Glenview, IL 60026-1301, US

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Research Appendix

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Rain garden From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Business parking lot that drains to a rain garden. A sunken curb retains asphalt, yet lets water flow off the edges. A rain garden is a planted depression that is designed to absorb rainwater runoff from impervious urban areas like roofs, driveways, walkways, and compacted lawn areas. This reduces rain runoff by allowing stormwater to soak into the ground (as opposed to flowing into storm drains and surface waters which causes erosion, water pollution, flooding, and diminished groundwater).[1] Rain gardens can cut down on the amount of pollution reaching creeks and streams by up to 30%. Native plants are recommended for rain gardens because they generally don't require fertilizer and are more tolerant of one's local climate, soil, and water conditions. The plants — a selection of wetland edge vegetation, such as wildflowers, sedges, rushes, ferns, shrubs and small trees — take up excess water flowing into the rain garden. Water filters through soil layers before entering the groundwater system. Root systems enhance infiltration, moisture redistribution, and diverse microbial populations[2] involved in biofiltration. Also, through the process of transpiration rain garden plants return water vapor into the atmosphere. A more wide-ranging definition covers all the possible elements that can be used to capture, channel, divert, and make the most of the natural rain and snow that falls on a property. The whole garden can become a rain garden, and all of the individual elements that we deal with in detail are either components of it, or are small-scale rain gardens in themselves. The concept of a rain garden began in the 1990's in the state of Maryland. They are now one of the fastest growing areas of interest for home landscapes.

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Contents • • •

• • •

1 Mimicking natural systems 2 Mitigating the impact of urban development 3 History o 3.1 Context 4 Characteristics o 4.1 Soil and drainage o 4.2 Plant selection o 4.3 Mulch o 4.4 Winter processes 5 Other municipal rain garden projects 6 External links 7 See also

•

8 References

•

Mimicking natural systems Before an area is developed, a natural groundwater filtering process takes place. Rainwater flows into low places, where native plants soak up and transpire a small portion of the water. The rest percolates into the ground. In a natural environment such as this, streams and creeks are fed by cool groundwater at a fairly constant rate. This water is buffered by groundwater storage capacity, ion exchange with substrates, and microbial processes within soil. Unfortunately, in most urban environments, the water system no longer works this way. Rain gardens can mimick some of this natural system. Rain gardens increase infiltration, decrease surface run-off from roofs, roads, and paved areas, and reduce the risk of flash flooding. Not all subsurface water percolates down to the ground water. Plant transpiration, often accelerated by urban heat island effects, speeds evaporation that frees water storage capacity within surface soil even as water continues percolating from saturated soil below. This is particularly true where mulch or debris inhibit direct evaporation from a soil surface. Root and microbial exudates, eg. saccharides, can raise soil's volumetric water holding capacity and retention coefficients for many contaminants. All this promotes natural biofiltration processes. Surface run-off not absorbed in the rain garden slows significantly—due to the swale and vegetative barrier —which reduces sediment load and pollution downstream. Because water moves slower in the ground than it does over the urban hardscape, rain gardens mitigate peak flow more than just by reducing the volume of water reaching the outlet. Mitigating the impact of urban development In developed areas, the natural depressions are filled in. The surface of the ground is leveled or paved, and water is directed into storm drains. This causes several problems. First of all, streams that are fed by storm drains are subjected to sudden surges of water each time it rains[3][4][5], which contributes to erosion and flooding. Also, the water is warmer than the groundwater that normally feeds a stream, which upsets the delicate system. Warmer water cannot hold as much dissolved oxygen (DO). Many fish and other creatures in streams are unable to live in an environment with fluctuating temperatures. Finally, a wide variety of pollutants[6] spill or settle on land surfaces between rain events. The initial rinse from each runoff event can wash this accumulation directly into streams and ponds. Excess water from an expanding area or increasing development density is cumulative. Flooding results from ever smaller events requiring upgrades of drainage infrastructure. Areas compacted by heavy equipment during past construction activities remain less permeable long after vegetation is reintroduced.

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Both groundwater recharge and subsurface flow paths are disrupted. Strategies to retain water and soil at their source can slow this harmful cascade. Rain gardens may be located near a drainpipe from a building’s roof (with or without rain barrels), although if there’s a basement, a French drain may be used to direct the rainwater to a location farther from the building. Normally, a rain garden—or a series of rain gardens—is the endpoint of drainage, but sometimes it can be designed as a pass-through system where water will percolate through a series of gravel layers and be captured by a drain under the gravel and carried to a storm water system. Rapid pass through systems reduce peak discharge and extend hydraulic lag time of the discharge —reversing urbanization's major hydraulic impact. However, rapidly drained systems do not achieve pollution removal rates that more slowly percolating rain gardens do[7]. Runoff volumes from impervious surfaces in many urban cities make green roofs necessary to reduce peak volumes to magnitudes that areas available for rain gardens can handle. While some rain garden wash through is acceptable from heavy storms that dilute pollution, depression focused recharge of contaminated runoff is avoided by proper rain garden design. The simplest fail safe for handling polluted runoff is for a garden with one inlet not to accept more volume than it can handle, and not pond to sufficient depth to push water into the water table faster than required for adequate biofiltration. Rain gardens are beneficial for many reasons: improve water quality by filtering run-off, provide localized flood control, aesthetically pleasing, and provide interesting planting opportunities. They also encourage wildlife and biodiversity, tie together buildings and their surrounding environments in attractive and environmentally advantageous ways, and make a significant contribution to important environmental problems that affect us all. A rain garden provides a way to use and optimize any rain that falls, reducing or avoiding the need for irrigation. They allow a household or building to deal with excessive rainwater runoff without burdening the public storm water systems. Rain gardens differ from retention basins, in that the water will infiltrate the ground within a day or two. This creates the advantage that the rain garden does not allow mosquitoes to breed. History The first rain gardens were created to mimic the natural water retention areas that occurred naturally before development of an area. The rain gardens for residential use were developed in 1990 in Prince George's County, Maryland, when Dick Brinker, a developer building a new housing subdivision had the idea to replace the traditional Best Management Practices (BMP) pond with a bioretention area. He approached Larry Coffman, the county's Associate Director for Programs and Planning in the Department of Environmental Resources, with the idea.[8] The result was the extensive use of rain gardens in Somerset, a residential subdivision which has a 300-400 ft² rain garden on each house's property.[9] This system proved to be highly cost-effective. Instead of a system of curbs, sidewalks, and gutters, which would have cost nearly $400,000, the planted drainage swales cost $100,000 to install.[8] This webpage has many links to information on Prince George's County's literature on implementing Low Impact Development (LID) in a community. Some de facto rain gardens predate their recognition by professionals as a significant LID tool. Any shallow garden depression implemented to capture and retain rain water within the garden so as to drain adjacent land without running off a property is at conception a rain garden--particularly if vegetation is maintained with recognition of its role in this function. Vegetated roadside swales, now promoted as "bioswales" remain the conventional drainage system in many parts of the world from long before extensive networks of cement sewers became the conventional engineering practice in the USA. What is globally new about such technology is the emerging rigor of increasingly quantitative understanding of how such tools may make sustainable development possible. This is as true for wealthy

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developed communities retrofitting bioretention into built stormwater management systems, and for developing communities seeking a faster and more sustainable development path. Context The tone or style of this article or section may not be appropriate for Wikipedia. Specific concerns may be found on the talk page. See Wikipedia's guide to writing better articles for suggestions.(February 2008) This article or section appears to contain a large number of buzzwords. Please help rewrite this article to make it more concrete and meaningful. Rain gardens are part of a renaissance of new technologies for sustainable urban drainage systems (abbreviated SuDs), emerging as engineers, architects, and development planners discover the functional power of more ecologically, and hydrologically integrated technologies that professionals considered privative during a time of industrial modernization. Challenges of real human induced ecological collapses, desertification, and the many facets of global climate disruption are redefining notions of progress. Inclusion of rain gardens as a legally recognized Best Management Practice (BMP) by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) was a major paradigm shift at the time.[attribution needed] The term "rain garden" explicitly distinguishes this BMP from conventional detention ponds, infiltration basins, "NURP" ponds, vegetated swales and increasingly concrete- or gravel-lined conveyance systems engineered for severe storms in the USA. These systems might not be recognized as swales or ponds by people from other parts of the world.[clarify] Popular and legislated demand for "rain gardens" can lead contractors to incorrectly label swales, and steep rock-lined retention basins as rain gardens. The spread of this new technology, old as its origins globally, may temporarily outpace technological comprehension of design professionals educated during a period of strong non-biological bias in the civil engineering discipline of the United States.[citation needed] The physical reinforcement of soil by plants, bioengineering, is accepted by construction professionals,[attribution needed] but the vital role of plants in the hydrological performance of rain gardens is less understood. Adjusting biases of large engineering firms toward deep, high volume, rapidly-drained garden designs with as much mulch area as plant area requires rigorous research to quantify negative impacts these choices have on intended rain garden functions of contaminant retention and water purification so that these factor into economic analysis. Unlike models used for flood management design, optimizing retention of net non-point source pollution involves continuous simulation models that account for stochastic processes, such as local weather. While within the capability of a personal computer, these are not yet ubiquitous tools among civil engineers accustomed to reducing risk of worst-case scenarios. Phytoremediation, green roofs and rain gardens are part of another paradigm shift as Ecohydrological Engineering emerges as a profession and Environmental Engineering reaches a status not before enjoyed in the Civil Engineering community of the USA.[attribution needed] Engineering to ensure sustainability in the full ecological context is worth big money where it once was considered unprofitable.[citation needed] Perceived scarcity of healthy water, air, and ecosystems may raise their universally recognized financial import to that of fuels.

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Characteristics

A home rain garden recently planted A rain garden requires an area where water can collect and infiltrate, and plants to maintain infiltration rates, diverse microbe communities, and water holding capacity. Transpiration by growing plants accelerates soil drying between storms. This includes any plant extending roots to the garden area. Simply adjusting the landscape so that downspouts and paved surfaces drain into existing gardens may be all that is needed because the soil has been well loosened and plants are well established. However, many plants don't tolerate saturated roots for long and often more water runs off one's roof than people realize. Often the required location and storage capacity of the garden area must be determined first. Rain garden plants are then selected to match the situation, not the other way around. Soil and drainage When an area’s soils are not permeable enough to let water drain and filter properly, the soil in the bottom of the garden is replaced with soil that will help the water to drain, typically containing 60% sand, 20% compost, and 20% topsoil. Deep plant roots create additional channels for storm water to filter into the ground. Sometimes a drywell area with a series of gravel layers may be constructed near the lowest spot in the rain garden to facilitate percolation. However, putting a drywell in the lowest spot washes in maximum silt to clog it prematurely and can make the garden into a rapid infiltration basin without the intended 100% retention of small rain events that rain gardens are designed to achieve. Depression focused recharge of polluted water into wells poses serious ground water pollution threats. Similarly combining septic treatment adjacent to rain gardens warrants careful review by a qualified engineer. Dirtier water must be more completely retained in soil to be purified. This usually means more small rain garden basins and greater required soil depths to the seasonal high watertable. In some cases lined bioretention cells with subsurface drainage are used to retain small events and filter larger ones without letting water percolate deeply on site. If this leachate is not to receive further treatment, the soil media warrants careful attention to achieve water quality goals. Rain gardens are at times confused with bioswales. Swales slope to a destination, while rain gardens do not; however, a bioswale may end with a rain garden. Drainage ditches may be handled like bioswales and even include rain gardens in series, saving time and money on maintenance. If most the water volume flowing into a garden, flows out again then rain garden may be the wrong term. Similarly, part of a garden that nearly always has standing water is a water garden, wetland, or pond not a rain garden. These semantics clarify where certain rain garden functions are achieved. One combines landscape elements to achieve objectives. Plant selection Functional plant traits vary among species and ecotypes, but all plants must transpire to actively grow and flower or fruit. Generally, more flowers and more fruit require more water, but it is most vital that plants survive.

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Plants selected for use in a rain garden should tolerate both saturated and dry soil. Using native plants is generally encouraged. This way, the rain garden may contribute to urban habitats for native butterflies, birds, and beneficial insects. Brooklyn Botanical Garden has regional lists of good rain garden plants for the USA. (See reference, below.) When planting a rain garden, it’s often important to use a generous addition of compost or humus in each planting hole. The compost increases the retention of moisture and it increases the aeration of the soil. However, excessive fertilization reduces a soil's retention of nutrients e.g. nitrates that can leach to groundwater. Native plants well suited to extracting all they need from local soil can be good candidates in places that must be a nutrient trap. Vegetatively invasive native plants can serve useful roles in rain gardens provided they do not proliferate to exclude other desired plants, or disrupt the aesthetic garden design or adjacent lawn. Avoid use of invasive exotic plants in any landscape situation. Plants must require minimal maintenance to survive, and be compatibility with adjacent land use. Trees under powerlines, or that up heave sidewalks when soils become moist, or whose roots seek out and needed clog drainage tiles can cause expensive damage. Other landscape considerations still apply. Transpiration rates can be worth considering. Submerged plants don't transpire to air. Water readily evaporates through stomata as sun warms leaves exposed to moving air, while ponded water remains cool. Arenchyma tissues facilitate oxygen diffusion to submerged roots of many facultative aquatic plants. Without this many plants are forced to restrain transpiration as inflow of oxygen depleted water--either by heating in a surface pond, or by respiring microbes in the ground--suffocates plants. This is counterproductive if such plants shade faster transpiring plants. Flood tolerance does not guarantee vibrant growth while inundated. Many swamp trees merely suspend growth during spring floods. Trees generally contribute most when located close enough to tap moisture in the rain garden depression, yet in no position to shade the garden or be inhibited by excessive moisture. That said, shading open surface waters can reduce excessive heating of habitat in receiving waters. Plants tolerate inundation by hot water for less time because heat drives out dissolved oxygen, thus a plant tolerant of early spring floods may not survive summer floods. A final note on ecotypes is that one wants plants or seed grown in similar conditions to those of the planting site. Just because you choose a species that has been observed growing well under 10cm of water, doesn't guarantee the plants one buys are of that same ecotype. Some facultative wetland plant species produce plants adapted to both wet and dry conditions, while others have separate ecotypes producing individuals competitive in uplands or in marshes. Mulch Adding organic mulch around plants is a good idea. Mulch protects establishing plants from rapid desiccation, and otherwise exposed soil from pelting rain drops that collapse pores though which water enters soil. Mulch traps some matter suspended in runoff even before it infiltrates. However, maximum transpiration, and support for soil microbes--responsible for biofiltration--is achieved when actively growing plants cover the soil from varied leaf canopy heights. A living mulch of tiny plants underneath can exclude weeds and increase net transpiration, but all plants must tolerate runoff debris that naturally accumulate in depressions. Lithic mulch protects soil from rapidly inflowing surface water, and makes sense in particularly arid situations. However separating organic debris-that accumulate from some runoff--from among rocks can be a task. Degrading organic mulches simply add soil structure and bind nutrients which may be harvested with excess compost accumulation in the rain garden. Hardwoods are recommended because they do not float away as readily as softwoods such as pine [10].

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Winter processes In climates where winter soils freeze, dormant plants do not transpire. One may presume rain gardens merely serve as a place to pile snow. However, garden plant structures still serve functions in winter. Windrows can catch drifting snow so it settles preferentially in piles to the side of roads, doorways, and paths. Conifer trees that maintain most their needles or scales transpire slowly in winter, but continue to intercept significant precipitation, snow, before it reaches the ground. Intercepted snow or ice readily melts and evaporates, or vanishes by direct sublimation by solar radiation in the dry winter air. Conifer trees in particular re-radiate winter sun such to accelerate snow thaw on their sun-word side. Infrared night photographs used to identify homes with poor insulation in cold climates, often show dormant trees as light blue figures. This is indicating that warmth is conducted through the tree to the air. This can result in ground temperatures beneath groups of trees significantly warmer than in exposed fields, thus such microclimates facilitate early thaw and infiltration is spring. The effect of forestry practices on the distribution of snow accumulation and onset of spring melt has been recognized for more than a decade. Finally, an observant gardener may notice how snow melts in circles around each tiny plant shoot that protrudes to the surface. As the sun melts snow, shoots provide fairly direct paths past surrounding ice crystals that refreeze water percolating into the snow pack. Perhaps dust on shoot surfaces acts as antifreeze, or adhesion of liquid water to organic surfaces makes it less readily freeze, but the focusing of daily solar energy into water on these preferential flow paths facilitates focused day time infiltration before ambient temperatures melt the bulk of the snow. Each shoot leads to roots which shrink as they dry in winter. Protruding shoots and roots force imperfections in ice lenses that form as water freezes solid within the snow pack or as a hard frost in soil. Being of different material, plant structures expand, contract, and dry at different rates than ice. Whatever the dominant mechanisms it appears that protruding plant shootsroot systems decrease the instance of complete hard frost or ice lens barriers to spring time infiltration. This area of research has significant implication for management of spring time flooding. Other municipal rain garden projects This article or section deals primarily with the United States and does not represent a worldwide view of the subject. Please improve this article or discuss the issue on the talk page. Maplewood, Minnesota has implemented a policy of encouraging residents to install rain gardens. Many neighborhoods had swales added to each property, but installation of a garden at the swale was voluntary. The project was a partnership between the City of Maplewood, U of M, Department of Landscape Architecture, and the Ramsey Washington Metro Watershed District. A focus group was held with residents and published so that other communities could use it as a resource when planning their own rain garden projects.[11] In Seattle, a prototype project, used to develop a plan for the entire city, was constructed in 2003. Called SEA Street, for Street Edge Alternatives, it was a drastic facelift of a residential street. The street was changed for a typical linear path to a gentle curve, narrowed, with large rain gardens placed along most of the length of the street. The street has 11% less impervious surface than a regular street. There are 100 evergreen trees and 1100 shrubs along this 3-block stretch of road, and a 2-year study found that the amount of stormwater which leaves the street has been reduced by 98%.[12] 10,000 Rain Gardens is a public initiative in the Kansas City, Missouri metro area. Property owners are encouraged to create rain gardens, with an eventual goal of 10,000 individual gardens. The West Michigan Environmental Action Council has begun encouraging rain gardens as a method of reducing the mosqito-borne West Nile virus.[13] Rain Gardens of West Michigan was established as an

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outreach of the Council as one of its water quality programs.[14] Also in Michigan, the Southeastern Oakland County Water Authority has published a pamphlet to encourage residents to add a rain garden to their landscapes in order to improve the water quality in the Rouge River watershed.[15] The city of Atlanta, Georgia, has established a public education project, the Clean Water Campaign (CWC), to encourage residents to learn about stormwater management and to add rain gardens to their properties. They do this through community workshops and an official website.[16] In Delaware, several rain gardens have been created through the work of the University of Delaware Water Resources Agency, and environmental organizations, such as the Appoquinimink River Association.[17] References • • •

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Dunnett, Nigel and Andy Clayden. Rain Gardens: Sustainable Rainwater Management for the Garden and Designed Landscape. Timber Press: Portland, 2007. ISBN 978-0-88192-826-6 Prince George’s County. 1993. Design Manual for Use of Bioretention in Stormwater Management. Prince George’s County,MD Department of Environmental Protection.Watershed Protection Branch, Landover, MD. Michael L. Clar, Billy J. Barfield, and Thomas P. O’Connor. 2004. Stormwater Best Management Practice Design Guide Volume 2 Vegetative Biofilters. US EPA National Risk Management Research Laboratory. ^ University of Rhode Island's Healthy Landscapes Program article Rain Gardens ^ NASA John C. Stennis Space Center Environmental Assurance Program see article B.C. Wolverton, R.C. McDonald-McCaleb. 1986. BIOTRANSFORMATION OF PRIORITY POLLUTANTS USING BIOFILMS AND VASCULAR PLANTS. Journal Of The Mississippi Academy Of Sciences. Volume XXXI, pp. 79-89. ^ Kuichling, E. 1889. The relation between the rainfall and the discharge of sewers in populous districts. Trans. Am. Soc. Civ. Eng. 20, 1–60. ^ Leopold, L. B. 1968. Hydrology for urban land planning-a guidebook on the hydrologic effects of urban land use. Geological Survey Circular 554. ^ Waananen, A. O. 1969. ‘Urban effects on water yield’ in W. L. Moore and C. W. Morgan (eds), Effects of Watershed Changes on Streamflow, University of Texas Press, Austin and London ^ Novotny, V. and Olem, H. 1994. Water Quality: Prevention, Identification, and Management of Diffuse Pollution. Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York. ^ Dietz, Michael E. and John C. Clausen. 2005. A Field Evaluation of raingarden flow and pollutant treatment. Water Air and Soil Pollution. Volume 167, pp123-138. ^ a b U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Washington, D.C. Nonpoint Source News-Notes. August/September 1995. Issue #42. "Urban Runoff" ^ "Rain gardens made one Maryland community famous" http://www.wnrmag.com/supps/2003/feb03/run.htm#one ^ 2000 Maryland Stormwater Design Manual. Volumes I & II. Appendix B.3 & A

10. 11. ^ http://www.ci.maplewood.mn.us/vertical/Sites/{EBA07AA7-C8D5-43B1-A708-6F4C7A8CC374}/ uploads/{E0CE291E-3C1B-4776-B33A-7C5A4C5F5860}.PDF

12. ^ "Street Edge Alternatives (SEA Streets) Project" http://www.seattle.gov/util/About_SPU/Drainage_&_Sewer_System/Natural_Drainage_Systems/Street_Edge _Alternatives/index.asp ^ "WEST NILE VIRUS: WMEAC Answers Your FAQ's" http://www.wmeac.org/notroot/westnile.asp

13. 14. ^ Rain Gardens of West Michigan, Grand Rapids, MI. "Rain Garden History" 15. ^ Southeastern Oakland County Water Authority, Royal Oak, MI. "Rain Gardens for the Rouge River: A Citizen's Guide to Planning, Design, & Maintenance for Small Site Rain Gardens" ^ Clean Water Campaign, Atlanta, Georgia. "Rain Garden"

16. 17. ^ University of Delaware Cooperative Extension. "Rain Gardens in Delaware." Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rain_garden"

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