Tour Allahabad Varanasi

TRAINS TRAIN NO. 2301

TRAIN NAME CAL RJDHANI

SOURCE HOWRAH JN.

DESTINATION ALLAHABAD JN.

DEPARTURE 04:45 PM

ARRIVAL 02:42 AM

DISTANCE 814 KM

CLASS A3

FARE Rs.1110

5160

SARNATH EXP

ALLAHABAD

VARANASI

12:55 PM

04:10 PM

136 KM

A3

Rs.251

2334

VIBHUTI EXPRESS

VARANASI

HOWRAH

06:00 PM

07:55 AM

773 KM

A3

Rs.831

HOWRAH – ALLAHABAD (CAL RJDHANI) ROUTE SLN 1 2 3 4 5 6

STN CODE HWH DHN PNME GAYA MGS ALD

STN NAME HOWRAH DHANBAD JN PARASNATH GAYA JN MUGHAL SARAI JN ALLAHABAD JN

ARRIVAL ---------07:42 PM 08:15 PM 10:19 PM 12:50 AM 02:42 AM

DEPARTURE 04:45 PM 07:47 PM 08:16 PM 10:22 PM 01:00 AM 02:45 AM

DISTANCE 000 KM 259 KM 306 KM 458 KM 661 KM 814 KM

1 1 1 1 2 2

DAY

ARRIVAL 12:30 PM 01:46 PM 02:23 PM 03:02 PM 04:10 PM

DEPARTURE 12:55 PM 01:47 PM 02:24 PM 03:03 PM 04:30 PM

DISTANCE 000 KM 037 KM 060 KM 091 KM 136 KM

1 1 1 1 1

ARRIVAL ------------06:10 PM 06:40 PM 07:40 PM 08:10 PM 08:28 PM 08:50 PM 09:10 PM 09:47 PM 10:20 PM 10:54 PM 11:20 PM 11:33 PM 11:56 PM 12:38 AM 02:05 AM 02:47 AM 03:54 AM 04:30 AM 05:15 AM 06:28 AM 07:55 AM

DEPARTURE 06:00 PM 06:12 PM 07:00 PM 07:42 PM 08:12 PM 08:30 PM 08:52 PM 09:12 PM 09:49 PM 10:30 PM 10:56 PM 11:22 PM 11:35 PM 11:58 PM 12:40 AM 02:15 AM 02:52 AM 03:56 AM 04:40 AM 05:17 AM 06:33 AM -----------

DISTANCE 000 KM 006 KM 017 KM 075 KM 111 KM 128 KM 158 KM 180 KM 219 KM 229 KM 251 KM 274 KM 292 KM 318 KM 352 KM 406 KM 450 KM 536 KM 560 KM 603 KM 666 KM 773 KM

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

ALLAHABAD – VARANASI (SARNATH EXP) ROUTE SLN 1 2 3 4 5

STN CODE ALD PLP JNH BOY BSB

STN NAME ALLAHABAD JN PHULPUR JANGHAI JN BHADOHI VARANASI JN

DAY

VARANASI - HOWRAH (VIBHUTI EXPRESS) ROUTE SLN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

STN CODE BSB KEI MGS DLN BXR DURE BEA ARA DNR PNBE FUT BKP BARH MKA KIUL JAJ JSME CRJ ASN DGR BWN HWH

STN NAME VARANASI JN KASHI MUGHAL SARAI JN DILDARNAGAR JN BUXAR DUMRAON BIHIYA ARA DANAPUR PATNA JN FATWA BAKHTIYARPUR JN BARH MOKAMEH JN KIUL JN JHAJHA JASIDIH JN CHITTARANJAN ASANSOL JN DURGAPUR BARDDHAMAN JN HOWRAH JN

TOUR PLAN: DAY 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

DETAILS Catch Train from Howrah at 4:45 PM Reach Allahabad at 2:42 AM. Check-in to Hotel and site seeing. Site seeing and rest. Catch Train from Allahabad at 12:55 PM and Reach Varanasi at 4:10 PM. Check-in to Hotel. Site seeing Varanasi Go for excursion to Sarnath and others on the way. Take rest at Varanasi Catch Train from Varanasi. at 6:00 PM Reach Howrah at 7:55 AM

DAY

ALLAHABAD About the City: A city of many dimensions is what befits a description of Allahabad. In addition to being a major pilgrimage centre, the city has played an important part in the formation of modern India. Hindu mythology states that Lord Brahma, the creator god, chose a land for 'Prakrishta Yajna'. This land, at the confluence of three holy rivers - Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati, blessed by gods, came to be known as 'Prayag' or 'Allahabad'. Foreseeing the sanctity of the place, Lord Brahma also called it as 'Tirth Raj' or 'King of all pilgrimage centres.' The Scriptures Vedas and the great epics - Ramayana and Mahabharata, refer to this place as Prayag. Centuries followed. Allahabad became the headquarters of North Western Provinces, after being shifted from Agra. A well reserved relic of the British impact includes the Muir College and the All Saints Cathedral. Many important events in India's struggle for freedom, took place here - the emergence of the first Indian National Congress in 1885, the beginning of Mahatma Gandhi's non-violence movement in 1920. This confluence of history, culture and religion makes Allahabad, a unique city. Area: 63.07 Sq. km. Population: 1022365 (1991 census) Altitude: 98 meters above sea level. Season : November - February Clothing: o Summer: Cottons o Winter: Woollens Language: Hindi, English, Urdu. Festivals: Magh Mela, Kumbh Mela, Ardh Kumb Mela, Dussehra. Local Transport: Taxis, Buses, Rickshaws. STD Code : 0532

Accessibility: AIR

Bamrauli Airport is 14 Km from Allahabad. Regular Flights from Allahabad to Delhi Jet Airways: Monday, Wednesday & Friday at 4:15 PM Air India: Monday to Saturday at 4:20 PM

RAIL

Allahabad is well connected by trains with all major cities, viz. Calcutta, Delhi, Jaipur, Lucknow and Mumbai. Some of the important trains providing access to Allahabad are: 2311/2312 Kalka Mail (Kalka/Delhi-Calcutta) 2381/2382 & 2303/2304 Air Conditioned Express (Amritsar-Delhi-Calcutta); 2815/2816 New Delhi-Puri Express; 3007/3008 Udyan Abha Toofan Express (Shriganganagar/Delhi-Calcutta); 3011/3012 Howrah Express (Calcutta-Delhi); 2321/2522 North East Express (New Delhi-Guwahati); 2391-2392 Magadh Vikramshila Express (New Delhi-Patna); 2417/2418 Prayag Raj Express (New Delhi)

ROAD

Allahabad, on National Highways 2 and 27, is connected to all parts of the country by good roads. Some important road distances are: Agra - 433 KM Ahmedabad - 1207 KM Ayodhya - 167 KM Bhopal - 680 KM Trivandrum - 2413 KM

Calcutta - 799 KM Chennai - 1790 KM Chitrakoot - 137 KM Delhi - 643 KM Hyderabad - 1086 KM

Jaipur - 673 KM Jhansi - 375 KM Khajuraho - 294 KM Mumbai - 1444 KM Lucknow - 204 KM

Nagpur - 618 KM Patna - 368 KM Udaipur - 956 KM Varanasi - 125 KM

Place of Interest: SLN 1.

INFORMATION Around 7 km from Civil Lines, overlooked by the eastern ramparts of the fort, wide flood plains and muddy banks protrude towards the sacred Sangam. At the point at which the brown Ganges meets the Greenish Yamuna, pandas (priests) perch on small platforms to perform puja and assist the devout in their ritual ablutions in the shallow waters. Beaches and Ghats are littered with the shorn hair of pilgrims who come to offer pind for their deceased parents. 2. Allahabad Fort The massive fort built by emperor Akbar in 1583 A.D., the fort stands on the banks of the Yamuna near the confluence site. In its prime, the fort was unrivalled for its design, construction and craftsmanship. This huge, majestic fort has three magnificent galleries flanked by high towers. At present is used by the army and only a limited area is open to visitors. The magnificent outer wall is intact and rises above the water’ edge. Visitors are allowed to see the Ashokan Pillar and Saraswati Kup, a well, said to be the source of the Saraswati river and Jodhabai Palace. The Patalpuri temple is also here. So is the much revered Akshaya Vat or immortal Banyan tree. 3. Patalpuri Temple Within this underground temple, inside the fort, lies the Akshaya Vat – or the immortal tree. Believed to have been visited by Lord Rama, the temple was also seen by the famous Chinese traveller and writer Hiuen Tsang during his visit to this place. 4. Ashoka Pillar This gigantic Ashoka pillar, of polished sandstone stands 10.6 meters high, dating back to 232 B.C. The pillar has several edicts and a Persian inscription of Emperor Jahangir inscripted on it, commemorating his accession to the throne. 5. Akshaya Vat The immortal tree within the Patalauri temple, has found mention in the description of several ancient scriptures, writers and historians. The tree stands in a deep niche above an underground shaft, which is said to lead to Triveni. Visitors need permission to visit the Fort, Patalpuri Temple, Ashoka Pillar and Akshaya Vat from Commandant, Ordinance Depot, and Fort. Allahabad Phone: 6064738, Extn. 213. 6. Hanuman Mandir Near the Sangam, this temple is unique in North India, for its supine image of Hanumana. Here the big idol of Lord Hanumana is seen in a reclining posture. When the Ganga is in spate, this temple gets submerged. 7. Shankar Viman 130 feet high with four floors, it has the idols of Kumaril Bhatt, Jagatguru Shankaracharya, Mandapam Kamakshi Devi (with 51 Shaktipeethas around), Yogsahastra Sahastrayoga Linga (2ith 108 Shivas around). 8. Mankameshwar Situated near Saraswati Ghat, on the banks of Yamuna, this is one of the famous Shiva Temples Temple of Allahabad. 9. Minto Park It is situated near Saraswati Ghat, it has a stone memorial with a four-lion symbol on top, the foundation of which was laid by Lord Minto in 1910. 10. Swaraj Bhawan The old Anand Bhawan, which in the year 1930 was donated to the Nation by Moti Lal Nehru, to be used as the headquarters of the Congress Committee. Moti Lal Nehru renamed it as Swaraj Bhawan. Late Prime Minister of India, Mrs. Indira Gandhi was born here.

11.

12.

LOCATION Sangam

Anand Bhawan

Jawahar Planetarium

13.

Allahabad University

14. 15.

Allahabad Museum Muir College (1874)

16.

Chandra Shekar Azad Park

Visiting hours: 09:30 am to 01:00 pm and 02:00 pm to 05:30 pm. Closed on Monday's. The erstwhile ancestral home of the Nehru family. Today it has been turned into a fine museum. Here, many momentous decisions, events, related to the freedom struggle took place. The main building houses a museum which displays the memorabilia of the Nehru family. Visiting hours: 09:30 am to 05:00 pm. Ticket: Rs.2.00. Closed on Mondays and Government holidays. Phone: 600476. For a celestial trip of the scientific kind, visit the Planetarium. Its worth every moment. Visiting hours: 11:00 am to 04:00 pm. Ticket: Rs. 5.00. Closed on Mondays and 4th Thursday of the month. Phone: (0532)600493. One of the most famous universities of India, it has a sprawling campus, graced by fine buildings in Victorian and Islamic architectural styles. The museum has a good collection of sculpture, especially of the Gupta era. Designed by William Emerson, this is an excellent mix of Gothic and Indian architectural elements. Commenced in 1874 and opened in 1886, it has an arcade quadrangle which is dominated by a 200 feet minaret tower in cream coloured sandstone from Mirzapur with marble and mosaic floors. The domes of the Indo-Saracenic structure are clad in Multan glazed tiles. Adjacent to the museum, this splendid park was once known as Company Bagh. It has some fine colonial Buildings, including a public library.

17.

All Saints Cathedral (Patthar Girjaghar)

18. 19.

Khusro Bagh Public Library (1864)

20.

Mayo Memorial Hall (1979)

This magnificent cathedral, designed by Sir William Emerson in 1870 and consecrated in 1887, is the finest of Anglican Cathedal in Asia is faced in White Stone with red stone dressing. No one visiting the cathedral can fail to be impressed by the beauty of the marble altar with intricate inlay and mosaic work. A large garden in which tombs of Khusro, son of emperor Jahagir and Shah Begam are located. Standing at Chandra Shekhar Azad Park (Alfred park)l The memorial has a lofty tower and arcaded cloister. In 1879, the library was shifted to the present premises at Alfred Park. It has about 75,000 books, besides a treasure trove of manuscripts and journals. Situated near the Thornhill and Myne Memorial, this large hall has a 180 feet high tower. The interior of this memorial hall was ornamented with designs by Professor Gamble of the South Kensington Museum, London. Completed in 1879 this hall was meant for public meetings, balls and receptions in commemoration of the assassinated Viceroy.

Excursions: SLN 1.

LOCATION Jhusi (Pratisthanpuri)

2. 3.

Bhita Shringverpur

4. 5. 6.

Tons River Aqueduct Upardaha Lake Kaushambi

7.

Kara

INFORMATION For people looking for mental peace and spiritual healing. A place of many Ashrams and Temples. Situated just 9 km from Allahabad, across the Ganga. Approachable by Taxis, Buses, Boats, etc. An archaeological site 20 km from Allahabad, with remains dating back to 300 B.C. A famous kingdom of Nishadraj (King of Boatmen) situated 40 km from Allahabad. Excavations have revealed a temple of Shringi Rishi. On the banks of Ganga there’s a platform `Ramchaura’ – said to be the place where Lord Rama stayed overnight while going to the forest and his feet were washed by Nishadraj, before steering Rama across the Ganga in his Boat. A popular picnic spot situated around 43 km from Allahabad. One of the protected lakes in Uttar Pradesh, just 44 km away from Allahabad. Situated at around 62 km from Allahabad. It is a place traditionally associated with the Mahabharata; the city was also once a great Buddhist centre. Lord Buddha is believed to have visited Kaushambi twice to deliver discourses. The ruins of an ancient fort bear witness to the antiquity of the place. There are also remains of a monastery. 69 km. On the banks of Ganga, this provincial capital of the Mughals has many ruins.Sheetla Mata Mandir and Kaleshwar Mahadevji temple are famous temples of Kara.

Accommodation: SLN 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.

NAME Hotel Kanha Shyam (4 star) Hotel Grand Continental (3 star) Hotel Presidency (2 star) Hotel Kohinoor Hotel Milan Hotel Vashishtha Hotel Allahabad Regency Hotel Samrat Hotel Yatrik Hotel Taoosi Hotel Finaro Hotel Prayag Mayur Guest House Royal Hotel Hotel Illawart, UPSTDC Tourist Bungalow

ADDRESS 22/1 Strachey Road, Civil Lines Sardar Patel Marg, Civil Lines 19-D Sarojini Naidu Marg 10 Noorulla Road 46, Leader Road Johnstonganj 16, Tashkant Marg, Allahabad 49-A/25-A, M.G. Marg, Civil Lines, Allahabad 33, Sardar Patel Marg, Civil Lines, Allahabad 31-A, Stanley Road, Allahabad 8, Hasting Road, Allahabad 73, Noorullah Road, Allahabad 10, Sardar Patel Marg, Kohli Bhawan, Civil Lines, Allahabad Civil Lines, Allahabad 35, M.G. Marg, Civil Lines, Allahabad

PHONE 2560123-32 2605888, 2605999 2623308-09 2656323, 2655501 2403776 2405359 2601519, 2601735 2561200-07, 2604879 2601713-14 2600187 2622452 2656416, 2656329 2561262-64 2623285, 2609733 2601440, 2604377

ADDRESS Tourist Bungalow, UPSTDC, 35, M.G. Marg, Civil Lines, Allahabad Hotel Tepso, Civil Lines, Allahabad 24, M.G. Marg, Civil Lines, Allahabad Civil Lines, Allahabad

PHONE 2601440, 2604377

Restaurants: SLN 1. 2. 3. 4.

NAME Bar & Restaurant Jade Garden El Chico Restaurant Kwality Restaurant

2623635, 2621802 2420753

Hospitals SLN

NAME Dufferin Hospital Kamala Nehru Hospital Moti Lal Nehru Hospital Nazareth Hospital Tej Bahadur Sapru Hospital Swaroop Rani Nehru Hospital Northern Railway Hospital

Chowk Tegore Town Colvin Kamla Nehru Marg Stainley Road M.G. Road

ADDRESS

PHONE 2651822 2608830 2652141, 2654546 2600430, 2601796 2642687 2603782 2624085

ADDRESS Tourist Bungalow, 35, M.G. Marg, Civil Lines, Allahabad

PHONE 2601873

Bai-Ka-Bash, Allahabad 50, Zero Road, Allahabad. Maya Bazar, Civil Lines, Allahabad. Clive Road Auto Sales Building, 18, Kanpur Road

2604121 602540, 607680 2624323 2420020, 2420626 2422082

Tourist Information and Travel Agency: SLN

NAME Government of U.P. Regional Tourist Office Krishna Travel Agency Pratap Travel Agency Varuna Travel Agency Airodia Travels Gupta Motels

VARANASI About the City: Varanasi is one of the oldest living cities in the world. Many names have been given to Varanasi, though its recently revived official appellation is mentioned in the Mahabharata and in the Jataka tales of Buddhism. It probably derives from the two rivers that flank the city, the Varana to the north and the Asi to the south. Many still use the anglicized forms of Banaras or Benares, while pilgrims refer to Kash, first used three thousand years ago to describe the kingdom and the city outside which the Buddha preached his first sermon; the "City of Light" is also called Kashika, "the shining one", referring to the light of Shiva. Another epithet, Avimukta, meaning "Never Forsaken", refers to the city that Shiva never deserted, or that one should never leave. Further alternatives include Anandavana, the "forest of bliss", and Rudravasa, the place where Shiva (Rudra) resides. Varanasi’s associations with Shiva extend to the beginning of time: legends relate how, after his marriage to Parvati, Shiva left his Himalyan abode and came to reside in Kashi with all the gods in attendance. Temporarily banished during the rule of the great king Divodasa, Shiva sent Brahma and Vishnu as his emissaries, but ultimately returned to his rightful abode protected by his loyal attendants Kalabhairav and Dandapani. Over 350 gods and goddesses, including a protective ring of Ganeshaa form a mandala or sacred pattern with Shiva Vishwanatha at its centre. Each name carries an additional meaning in terms of the sacred symbolism of the city, with each defining aprogressively decreasing arc starting and ending on the west bank of the Ganges. While the boundary of Kashi is delimited by the circular Panchakroshi Road, Varanasi is the main city, extending from Asi Ghat and circling around to the confluence of the Ganges and the Varana. Yet a smaller area, defined as Avimukta, starts at Kedara Ghat in the south and ends at Trilochana Ghat. Most important of all is Antargriha, the "Inner Sanctum" around the Vishwanatha Temple, which encompasses Dashashwamedha Ghat, Surya Kund, the lingam of Bharabhuta, and Manikarnika Ghat. Another, later, interpretation suggests three sectors of khandas in the form of Shiva’s trident, each centred on the temple – Omkara to the north, Vishvanatha in the centre and Kendra to the south. A city which, since it is both an exalted place of pilgrimage and an idealize centre of faith, has been likened to Jerusalem and Mecca.According to the historians, the city was founded some ten centuries before the birth of Christ. The city is mentioned in Holy Scriptures like 'Vamana Purana', Buddhist texts and in the epic 'Mahabharata'.Mark Twain,the English author and litterateur,who was enthralled by the legend and sanctity of Banaras,once wrote:"Banaras is older than history,older than tradition,older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together." Varanasi's prominence in Hindu mythology is virtually unrivalled. For the devout Hindu the city has always had a special place, besides being a pilgrimage centre, it is considered especially auspicious to die here, ensuring an instant route to heaven.The

revered and ancient city Varanasi is the religious centre of the world of Hindus. Varansi is a city where past, present, eternity and continuity co-exists. The city of Banaras is situated on the west bank of the holiest of all Indian rivers, the Ganga or Ganges. The relationship between the sacred river and the city is the essence of Varanasi - 'the land of sacred light'. The Ganga is believed to have flown from heaven to wash away the worldly sins of the human race of mortal's .The life and activities in the city centre around the holy river. Life on the banks of the Ganga begins before dawn when thousands of pilgrims - men, women and children - come down to the river to wait for the rising sun when immersion in the sacred river will cleanse them of their sufferings and wash their sins away. Along the water's edge, there are the burning ghats. The most sacred one is Manikarnika, associated with Goddess Parvati, Lord Shiva's wife. The major shrine is the Vishwanath Temple the abode of Lord Shiva, the most important of the trinity, Brahma, Vishnu and Maheshwara, the Lords of this universe. Around this temple evolved the spiritual identity of Varanasi .The holy city within Banaras is thus called, Kashi, the luminous one or the city of the light. It is beside the holy waters of the Ganga that the activities for which Banaras is held sacred are performed. Everyday thousands of residents and pilgrims bathe, offer prayers to the elements, to the rising sun, and to their dead ancestors who have been carried away by these waters. What draws people to the river is an ingrained belief that these waters can absolve the sins of many generations. Everyone has their own way of celebrating the ritual contact with the holy Ganga: some bathe; other dip themselves entirely into the water once, thrice or any number of times; some drink the water; other make water offerings to the sun; while others fill their pots with holy water to take back to their homes to perform rituals and purification.The offerings to the sacred waters vary. Pilgrims give flowers, fruits, lamps and their respectful prayers. On festival days and religious occasions the riverside is thick with their colorful bobbing up and down on the waters. The land around Banaras is also held sacred since Shiva is believed to have lived here.There are thousands of temples at Benaras dedicated to different gods and goddesses, particularly to the deities of good fortune and prosperity-and to the sun and the planets. The most important are those that honor the diverse manifestations and attributes of Shiva.The major shrine at Banaras is the Vishvanatha Temple, devoted to Shiva, the Lord of the Universe. The appearance of the pillar of light is said to have occurred at the site of Vishvanatha Temple. The holy city within Banaras is thus called Kashi "The Luminous One' or the 'City of Light'. Light in Hindu philosophy has great meaning for it exemplifies the wisdom that destroys the darkness of ignorance. Sin and evil are understood to be the acts of ignorance. When wisdom is acquired, evil will disappear. Sin cannot be washed away by water or prayer but only by wisdom. Immorality is also reached through wisdom and understanding. So the City of Light is the City of Eternal Wisdom as well. To die in the city beside the river of life is to die with a promise of redemption, a promise to be liberated from the endless cycle of life and death and reincarnation, and to gain moksha or eternal absolution. So for centuries thousands of people have come to Banaras to die and thousands have brought the ashes of the dead here to immerse them in the holy waters. Banaras has always been associated with philosophy and wisdom. A place of learning for many years, the Banaras Hindu University carries on this tradition. The University campus, to the south of the city, was built at the beginning of this century. Pundit Madan Mohan Malviya was instrumental in founding it. On campus is the Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum, which originated from the private collection of Rai Krishnadasa. The Banaras region was administered by Hindu rulers for several hundred years until the 17th century, when it fell into the hands of the Mughals. As was the practice many buildings of the previous rulers and the religious structures of the Hindu and Buddhists were demolished during the wars of the conquest. In Banaras we find many places where a temple once stood and where now mosque or some other structure stands. However, there is a little known farman, or royal decree, in the Bharat Kala Bhavan museum, which claims that Aurangzeb, the last great Mughal ruler, ordered his administrators to abstain from destroying any more temples. In succeeding years as Banaras continued to grow, the temples that were destroyed, were rebuilt or relocated.

Since Banaras is a pilgrimage centre, revered and honored throughout India, pilgrims come from all parts of the country to visit it. Some travel 2,000 kilometers to bathe in the Ganga and to honor their dead. Earlier pilgrims used to walk to Banaras on foot, and along the way visited other pilgrimages.The antiquity of Banaras is known not just by the archeological remains but by the diverse and varied literature of India The inflow of pilgrims developed Banaras as a trade centre. Besides traders, crafts people also settled in Banaras. Today the city is renowned for its silk weavers, who prepare the finest types of woven silk fabrics. A Banaras silk sari or shawl is traditionally a single colored textile with motifs and patterns woven in gold or silver threads. The technique is intricate, the procedure complex and demands great expertise .As the warp and the weft are interwoven on the loom, small, often minute shuttles with gold thread are introduced to form the motif. When the design of the motif is completed, a knot is made and the gold thread cut. The weaving continues until the next design. The smaller the motif or the more intricate the design, the more complex the weaving skills required. Silk weaving in Banaras is a cottage industry and in many areas of the city, especially the Muslim quarters, one can see looms at work all day. Entire families are involved; Children often pick up the art from the elders at an early age. There are shops in Banaras, and throughout India that sell these fine silk fabrics Festivals and Varanasi: The months of January and February herald the end of the cold months. On the moonless night between February and March, Shivratri, the night of Shiva, is celebrated.on the moonless night between February and March. Between March and April the new Hindu month of chaitra commences. This marks the beginning of spring. On the festival of Holi, colored powder and paint are thrown into the air, or over relatives and friends, in an attempt to capture the colors of spring and the season of renewal, the season of new beginnings. This is followed by the nine-day celebration of the goddess. Banaras has some very ancient shrines, dedicated to manifestations of the female powers. There is the Chausat yogini shrine, dedicated to the 64 yoginis or manifestations of Sakti, the goddess of fertility, growth and prosperity. Others to the powers against illness and diseases, Shitala Devi, and to Lakshmi the goddess of bounty and prosperity. During summer, the snows in the distant Himalayas begin to melt, and later during the monsoon the River Ganga at Banaras swells and rises as thousands collect to bathe in her sacred waters. August and September are the months when festivities, parades and decorations mark the special days of Ganesh, the Lord of Good Fortune and the Remover of Obstacles. The birthday of Krishna, the cow herd incarnation of Vishnu, is celebrated on Krishna Janmashtami. The cooler months of October and November are the best to be in Banaras. There are numerous festivals during this period, including the Navratras (nine auspicious nights) and the celebration of Dussehra. This festival lasts for ten days and is associated to the worship of the goddess Sita and the story of Ram, a reincarnation of Shiva. Their entire story is enacted and relived on the streets of Benaras. The festival of Divali,the festival of lights follows soon after, commemorating the homecoming of Ram., after he was exiled for 14 years. It is the festival of lights, the festival of good fortune. People clean and decorate their houses to entice Lakshmi the goddess of wealth and prosperity to enter their homes. Finally there is Kartik Purnima in November. Thousands of pilgrims collect to celebrate the full moon. On this occasion the dead are honoured by lighting lamps beside the holy waters of the Ganga. Paper lamps are strung on tall bamboo poles and kept by the waters' edge to lighten up the way for the dead. It is a blessed night, one of the most auspicious at Banaras, and it summarizes the mystery of this holy city.

Music in Varanasi Renowned as a centre for north Indian classical music Varanasi, attracts students from all over the world, and is famous for its exhilarating school (gharana) of tabla (paired hand drum) playing The city is home to such legendary figures as Ustad Bismillah Khan (sehnai oboe) and Pandit Shanto Prasad (tabla) and Pandit Ravi Shankar (sitar) has also been based here. Small schools and

instrument shops in the alleys off Dashashwamedha try to catch the transient tourist trade but if you want to probe deeper the traditional scene based around student teacher relationships continues to thrive. Between Jangambali post office and Bengali Lane the International Music Ashram. D33/81 Khalishpura, holds concerts and organizes classes aimed at foreigners Asi Ghat has always been known for its rapidly changing music scene, and there's a lively performing arts departinent at BNU. Varanasi is renowned for big music festivals particularly during winter and spring held during Shivratri (Feb/March) the Dhrupad Mela is devoted to Dhrupad an archaic form in which the voice treated as a musical instrument is accompanied by the double membrane barrel drum pakhawaj. Pakhawaj solos are particularly vibrant; the drum has a deep and sonorous tone and performances rise to energetic crescendos. A four-day music and dance festival the Ganga Mahotsav takes place at Rajendra Prasad Ghat near Dashashwamedha and is held around Kartik Purnima - the full moon after Diwali (Oct/Nov); entrance is usually free: Varanasi's large Muslim community also makes its mark, - there is an active Sufi tradition, and at dargahs (shrines) you may chance upon a qawwali performance; these are often given on Thursdays at the Dargah of Chandan Sahid, Raj Ghat. Most of the best instrument makers are tucked away in the alleys of the old city known only to practitioners some also supply the Dashashwamedha tourist shops who then add on a hefty mark up. For those in the know much the best idea is to have an instrument made to order. The following places are worth a look if you are hooked: Bassaruddin, near Arya Samaj Temple,Lalapura. Run by one of the Varanasi's best craftsmen, tabla maker to the professionals; expect to pay from Rs. 1300 for a pair of made to order tablas and Rs.2000 with a case. Imtiaz Ali, D47/195 Ramapura, opposite Mazda Movie Hall. General music shop with a motley collection of instruments. Although prices are reasonable, quality is mediocre; they will arrange better quality instruments on demand - but of course, at a price. Kesho Prasad, C K 38/5 Gyanwapi, near Dashashwamedha. Specializes in string instruments such as the sitar and tanpura (drone). Nitai Chandra Nath, 35/181 Jangambali, near International Music Ashram. A good sitar maker and once the instrument technician to BHU; good sitars for around REs3500 and cases for Rs1500. Sur Sangam, D16 Man Mandir Ghat. Aimed at tourists, this shop charges outrageous prices and is best avoided. Area: 73.89 sq. km. Population: 1322248 (1991 census) Altitude: 80.71 mtrs. above sea level Season: October – March Clothing: o Summer: Cottons o Winters: Woollens Language: Hindi and English Festivals: Shivratri, Dussehra, Ganga Festival, Bharat Milap, Dhrupad Mela, Hanumat Jayanti, Nakkatyya Chetganj, Nag Nathaiya Panch Kroshi Parikrama. Local Transport: Buses, Cycle-rickshaws, Auto-rickshaws STD Code: 0542

Accessibility: AIR RAIL

The nearest airport is Babatpur, 22 km from Varanasi and 30 Km from Sarnath. Direct flights for Varanasi are available from Delhi, Agra, Khajurao, and Calcutta, Mumbai, Lucknow and Bhuvaneshwar airports. Varanasi and Mughal Sarai (one of the main railway stations of Varanasi) are the important rail junctions, with train connections to all major cities of India. Some important trains are: Rajdhani Exp ( Hawrah - Mughal Sarai - New Delhi) Toofan Exp ( Howrah - Mughal Sarai - Delhi) North East Superfast Exp ( Delhi - Mughal Sarai Guwahati) Magadh Exp ( Delhi - Mughal Sarai Patna) Mahanagari Exp ( Varanasi - Mumbai ) Pawan Exp ( Varanasi - Mumbai )

ROAD

Sabarmati Exp ( Varanasi - Ahmedabad) Ganga Kaveri Exp (Varanasi - Chennai) Poorwa Exp (Howrah - Varanasi - Delhi) Himgiri Exp (Jammu - Varanasi - Howrah) Sealdah Exp (Varanasi - Jammu Tawi).

Varanasi, on NH 2 from Calcutta to Delhi, NHZ to Kanya Kumari and NH 29 to Gorakhpur is well connected to the rest of the country by good motorable roads. some of the major road distances are: Agra - 565 KM Allahabad - 128 KM Bhopal - 791 KM

Bodhgaya - 240 Km Kanpur - 330 KM Khajuraho - 405 KM

Lucknow – 286 Patna - 246 KM Sarnath - 10 KM

Place of Interest: SLN 1.

2.

LOCATION River Front (Ghats)

Asi Ghat to Kedara Ghat

INFORMATION The great river banks at Varanasi, built high with eighteenth and nineteenth-century pavilions and palaces, temples and terraces, are lined with an endless chain of stone steps – the Ghats – progressing along the whole of the waterfront, altering in appearance with the dramatic seasonal fluctuations of the river level. Each of the hundred Ghats, big and small, is marked by a lingam, and occupies its own special place in the religious geography of the city. Some have crumbled over the years, others continue to thrive, with early-morning bathers, Brahmin priests offering puja, and people practicing meditation and yoga. Hindus puja, and people practicing meditation and yoga. Hindus regard the Ganges as amrita, the elixir of life, which brings purity to the living and salvation to the dead; sceptical outsiders tend to focus on all-persuasive and extreme lack of hygiene. Ashes to the dead, emissions from open drains and the left-over from religious rites float by the devout as they go about their bathing and ceremonial cleansing. For centuries, pilgrims have traced the perimeter of the city by a ritual circumambulation, paying homage to shrines on the way. Among the most popular routes is the Panchatirthi Yatra, which takes in the Pancha, (five) Trithi (crossing) of Asi, Dashashwamedha, Adi Keshva, Panchganga and finally Manikarnika. To gain merit or appease the gods, the devotee, accompanied by a panda (priest), recites a sankalpa (statement of intent) and performs a ritual at each stage of the journey. For the casual visitor, however the easiest way to see is to follow a south-north sequence either by boat or on foot. At the clay-banked Asi Ghat, the southernmost in the sacred city, at the confluence of the Asi and the Ganges, pilgrims bathe prior to worshipping at a huge lingam under a peepal tree. Another lingam visited is that of Asisangameshvara, the "Lord of the Confluence of the Asi", in a small marble temple just off the ghat. Traditionally, pilgrims continued to Lolarka Kund, the Trembling Sun", a rectangular tank fifteen metres below ground level, approached by steep steps. Now almost abandoned, except during the Lolarka Mela fair (Aug/Sept), when thousands come to propitiate the gods and pray for the birth of a son, Lolarka Kund is among Varanasi’s earliest sites, one of only two remaining Sun sites linked with the origins of Hinduism. Equated with the twelve adityas or divisions of the sun, which predate the great deities of Modern Hinduism, it was attracting bathers in the days of the buddha. Much of the adjacent Tulsi Ghat – originally Lolarka Ghat, but renamed in the honour of the poet Tulsidas, who lived nearby in the sixteenth century – has crumbled. Continuing north, above Shivala Ghat, hanuman Ghat is the site of a new temple built by the ghat’s large south Indian community. Considered by many to be the birth place of the fifteenth-century Vaishnavite saint Vallabha, who was instrumental in in the resurgence of the worship of Krishna, the ghat also features a striking image of Ruru, the dog Bhairava, a ferocious and early form of Shiva. Named for a legendary king said to have almost lost everything in a fit of self-abnegation, Harishchandra Ghat, one of the Varanasi’s two cremations of burning ghats, is easily recognizable

from the smoke of its funeral pyres.

3.

Chauki Ghat to Chaumsathi Ghat

4.

Dashashwamedha Ghat

5.

6.

Man Mandir Ghat to Lalita Ghat

Manikarnika Ghat

Further north, the busy Kendra Ghat is ignored by pilgrims on the Panchatirthi Yatra. Above its steps, a red-and-white-striped temple houses the Kedareshvara lingam, an outcrop of black rock shot through with a vein of white. Mythologically related to Kedarnath in the Himalayas, Kedara and its ghat become a hive of activity during the sacred month of Sravana (July/Aug), the month of the rains. Northwards along the river, Chauki Ghat is distinguished by an enormous tree that shelters small stones shrines to the nagas, water-snake deities, while at the unmistakable Dhobi (Laundrymen’s) Ghat clothes are still rhythmically pulverized in the pursuit of purity. Past smaller ghats such as Mansarovar Ghat, named after the holy lake in Tibet, and Narada Ghat, honouring the divine musician and sage, lies Chaumsathi Ghat, where impressive stone steps lead up to the small temple of the Chaumsathi (64) Yoginis. Images of Kali and Durga in its inner sanctum represent a stage in the emergence of the great goddess as a single representation of a number of female divinities. Overlooking the ghats here is Peshwa Amrit Rao’s majestic sandstone haveli (mansion), built in 1807 and currently used for religious ceremonies and occasionally, as an auditorium for concerts. Dashashwamedha Ghat, the second and business of the five tirthas on the Panchatirthi Yatra, lies past the plain, flat-roofed building that houses the shrine of Shitala. Extremely popular, even in the rainy season when devotees have to wade to the temple or take a boat, Shitala represents both both benign and malevolent aspects – ease and succour as well as disease, particularly smallpox. Dashashwamedha is Varanasi’s most popular and accessible bathing ghat, with rows of pandas sitting on wooden platforms under bamboo umbrellas, masseurs plying their trade and boatmen jostling for custom. Its name, "ten horse sacrifices", derives from a complex series of sacrifices performed by Brahma to test King Divodasa: Shiva and Parvati were sure the king’s resolve would fail, and he would be compelled to leave Kashi, thereby allowing them to return to their city. However, the sacrifices were so perfect that Brahma established the Brahmeshvara lingam here. Since that time, Dashashwamedha has become one of the most celebrated tirthas on earth, where pilgrims can reap the benefits of the huge sacrifice merely by bathing. Man Mandir Ghat is known primarily for its magnificent eighteenth-century observatory, equipped with ornate window casings, and built for the Maharajah of Jaipur. Pilgrims pay homage to the important lingam of Someshvara, the lord of the moon, alongside, before crossing Tripurabhairavi Ghat to Mir Ghat and the New Vishwanatha Temple, built by conservative brahmins who claimed that the main Vishwanatha lingam was rendered impure when Harijans (untouchables) entered the sanctum in 1956. Mir Ghat also has a shrine to Vaishalakshi, the Wide-Eyed Goddess, on an important pitha – a site marking the place where various parts of the disintegrating body of Shakti fell as it was carried by the grief-stricken Shiva. Also here is the Dharma Kupa, the Well of Dharma, surrounded by subsidiary shrines and the lingam over all the dead of the world – except here in Varanasi. Immediately to the north is Lalita Ghat, renowned for its ganga Keshava shrine to Vishnu and the Nepali Temple, a typical Kathmandu-style wooden temple which houses an image of Pashupateshvara – Shiva’s manifestation at Pashupatinath, in the Mathmandu Valley – and sports a small selection of erotic carvings. North of Lalita lies Varanasi’s pre-eminent cremation ground, Manikarnika Ghat. Such grounds are usually held to be inauspicious, and located on the fringes of cities, but the entire city of Shiva is regarded as Mahashmashana, the Great Cremation Ground for the corpse of the entire universe. The ghat is perpetually crowded with funeral parties, as well as the Doms, its Untouchable guardians, busy and pre-occupied with facilitating final release for those lucky enough to pass away here. Seeing bodies being cremated so publicly has always exerted a great fascination for visitors to the city, but photography is strictly taboo; even having a camera visible may be constructed as intent, and provokes hostility. Lying at the centre of the five tirthas, manikarnika Ghat symbolizes both creation and destruction, epitomized by the juxtaposition of the sacred well of Manikarnika Kund, said to have been dug by Vishnu at the time of creation, and the hot, sandy ash-infused soil of cremation grounds where time comes to an end. In Hindu mythology, Manikarnika Kund predates the arrival of the Ganga and has its source deep in the Himalayas. Vishnu cared the kund with his discus, and filled it with perspiration from his exertions in creating the world, at the behest of Shiva. When Shiva quivered with delighted, his earning fell into this pool, which as manikarnika – "Jewelled Earring" – became

the first tirthas in the world. Every yea, after the floodwaters of the river have receded to leave the pool caked in alluvial deposits, the kund is re-dug. Its surroundings are cleaned and painted with brightly coloured folk art, which depicts the presiding goddess, Manikarnika Devi, inviting pilgrims to bathe and worship at its small Vishnu shrine, and at the paduka (footprint) of Vishnu set in marble on the embankment of the ghat. The most important of the lingams is the remains of Tarakeshvara, Shiva as Lord of Taraka mantra, a "prayer of the crossing" recited at death.

7.

Scindia Ghat

8.

Panchganga Ghat to Adi Keshva Ghat

Strictly speaking, Manikarnika is the name given to the kund and to the ghat, while the constantly busy cremation ground is Jalasi Ghat, dominated by a dark smoke-stained temple built by Queen Ahalya Bai Holkar of Indore in the eighteenth century. Bordering Manikarnika to the north is the picturesque Scindia Ghat, with its titled Shiva temple lying partially submerged in the river, having fallen in as a result of the sheer weight of the ghat’s construction around 150 years ago. Above the ghat, several of Kashi’s most influential shrines are hidden within the tight maze of alleyways of the area known as Siddha Kshetra (the field of Fulfilment). Vireshvara, the Lord of all Heroes, is especially propitiated in prayer for a son; the Lord of Fire, Agni, was supposed to have been born here. Beyond Lakshmanbala Ghat, with its commanding views of the river. Lies one of the most dramatic and controversial ghats, Panchganga Ghat, dominated by Varanasi’s largest riverside building, the great mosque of Alamgir, known locally as Beni Madhav-ka-Darera. With its minarets now much shortened, the mosque stands on the ruins of what must have been one of the city’s greatest temples, Bindu Madhava, a huge Vishnu temple that extended from Panchganga to Rama Ghat before it was destroyed by Aurangzeb and replaced by an impressive mosque. Panchganga also bears testimony to more favourable Hindu-Muslim relations, being the site of the initiation of the medieval saint of the Sufi-Sant tradition, Kabir, the son of a humble Muslim weaver who is venerated by Hindus and Muslims alike. Along the river front lies a curious array of three-sided cells, submerged during the rainy season, some with lingams, others with images of Vishnu, and some empty and used for meditation or yoga. One of these is a shrine to the Five (panch) Rivers (ganga) which, according to legend, have their confluence here: the two symbolic rivulets of Dhutapapa (Cleansed of Sin) and the Kirana (Sun’s Ray), which join the mythical confluence of the Yamuna and the Yamuna and the Sarasvati with the Ganga. Above Trilochana Ghat, further north, is the holy ancient lingam of the Three (tri) Eye (lochana) Shiva. Beyond it, the river bypasses some of Varanasi’s oldest precincts, now predominantly Muslim in character; the ghats themselves gradually become less impressive and are usually of the kaccha (clay-banked) variety.

9.

Vishwanatha Khanda

At Adi Keshava Ghat (the "Original Vishnu"), on the outskirts of the city, the Varana flows into the Ganga. Unapproachable during the rainy season, when it is completely submerged, it marks the place where Vishnu first landed as an emissary of Shiva, and stands on the original site of the city before it spread southwards; around Adi Keshva are a number of Ganesha shrine. The Old City at the heart of Varanasi, between Dashashwamedha Ghat and Godaulia to the south and west and Manikarnika Ghat on the river to the north, lays Vishwanatha Khanda, sometimes referred to as the Old City. The whole area rewards exploration, with numerous shrines and lingams tucked into every corner, and buzzing with the activity of pilgrims, pandas and stalls selling offerings to the faithful. Approached through a maze of narrow alleys and the Vishwanatha Gali (or Lane), the temple complex of Vishwanatha or Visheshwara, the "Lord of All", is popularly known as the Golden Temple, due to the massive gold plating on its shikhara (spire). Inside the compound - which is hidden behind a wall, and entered through an unassuming doorway - is one of India's most important shivalingams, made of smooth black stone and seated in a solid silver plinth, as well as shrines to the wrathful protectors Mahakala and Dandapani, and the lingam of Avimukteshvara, the Lord of the Unforsaken, which predates Vishwanatha and once held much greater significance. The current temple was built in 1777 by Queen Ahalya Bai Holkar of Indore, and is closed to nonHindus, who have to make do with glimpses from adjacent buildings. Vishwanatha's history has been fraught Sacked by successive Muslim rulers; the temple was repeatedly rebuilt, until the grand edifice begun in 1585 by Todar Mal, a courtier of the tolerant Moghul Akbar, was finally destroyed by Aurangzeb. On its foundations, guarded by armed police to protect it from Hindu fanatics, stands the Jnana Vapi Mosque, also known as the Great Mosque of Aurangzeb. Its simple white domes tower over the Jnana Vapi (Wisdom Well), immediately north, housed in an open arcaded hall built in 1828, where Shiva cooled his lingam after the

construction of Vishwanatha. Covered by a grate to prevent people jumping in, in search of instant moksha, and covered with a cloth to stop coins being thrown in, only the presiding brahmins have access to its waters, considered to be liquid knowledge. Pilgrims offer their sankalpa or statement of intent here, before commencing the Panchatirthi Yatra. Slightly north, across the main road, the thirteenth-century Razia's Mosque stands atop the ruins of a still earlier Vishwanatha temple, destroyed under the Sultanate.

11.

The Kashi Vishwanath Temple

Close by, the temple of Annapurna Bhavani is dedicated to the supreme Shakti ("She, the Being of Plenteous Food"), the queen and divine mother also known in this benevolent form as Mother of the Three Worlds. As the provider of sustenance, she carries a cooking pot rather than the fearsome weapons borne by her horrific forms Durga and Kali a subsidiary shrine opened only three days a year houses a solid gold image of Annapurna. Nearby is a stunning image, faced in silver against a black surround, of Shani or Saturn. Anyone whose fortunes fall under his shadow is stricken with bad luck - fate devotees try to escape by worshipping here on Saturdays. Also known as the Golden Temple, it is dedicated to Lord Shiva, the presiding deity of the city. Varanasi is said to be the point at which the first jyotirlinga, the fiery pillar of light by which Shiva manifested his supremacy over other gods, broke through the earth’s crust and flared towards the heavens. More than the Ghats and even the Ganga, the Shivalinga installed in the temple remains the devotional focus of Varanasi. Entry restricted for foreigners.

Excursions: SLN 1. 2.

3. 4. 5.

LOCATION Sarnath Chunar

Chandraprabha Wildlife Sanctuary Vindhyachal Kaimoor Wildlife Sanctuary

INFORMATION 40 Km. Chunar has an immense fort overlooking the Ganga. This place has been the scene of battles since 1540, when Sher Shah took it from Humayun. Akbar recaptured it in 1575. In the mid - 18th century it was appropriated by Awadh and subsequently, the British. The fort has a sun - dial and a huge well, and affords a splendid view of the Ganga. 70 km from Varanasi are the forests of Chandraprabha, within which are the Rajdari and Deodari Waterfalls. A beautiful secluded spot for a picnic. 75 km. The famous temple of Vindhyavasini Devi, Ashtabhuja Devi and Kalikhoh are the major attractions. 130 km. Spread over an area of 500 sq. km, the sanctuary has a variety of wildlife. The Mukha waterfall is a tourist attraction. Other excursions include Jaunpur ( 58 km, See Index), Allahabad (128 km, see Index) and the Vindham and Chachai falls.

Accommodation: SLN 1.

NAME Hotel Taj Ganges

ADDRESS Nadesar Palace Grounds, Cantt.

2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.

Hotel Varanasi Ashok ( ITDC) Hotel Clarks Varanasi Hotel Hindustan International Hotel De Paris Hotel Diamond Hotel ideal Tops Hotel Pallavi International Hotel Ganges View Hotel India Hotel Malti Radiant YMCA Tourist Hostel

13.

Rahi Tourist Bungalow

The Mall, Cantt. The Mall, Cantt. C-12/3, Maldahia. The Mall, Cantt. Bhelupur The Mall Hathwa Market, Chetganj Assi Ghat 59 Patel Nagar, Cantt. V.M Road 28 A, Sampoornanand Nagar, Mahmoorganj Sigra road. Parade Kothi, Opp. Cantt Railway Station

PHONE 2503001-19 [email protected] 2346020-30 2348501-10 2351484-90 2346601-8 2310696-700 2348091-92 2356939-43 2313218 2342912 2351395 2224951 [email protected] 2208545,2208413 [email protected]

Restaurants: SLN 1. 2. 3.

NAME Mandarin Restaurant Shahi Restaurant Yelchico Bar & Restaurant

ADDRESS Lahurabir near Rathyatra Crossing Godaulia

PHONE

4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Amrapali Ashiyana Restaurant Hilarious Restaurant Temple Restaurant/Gangotri Restaurant Haveli Restaurant

D-58/9 Varanasi Varuna Bridge, Clark Road 20/51, Clark Road, Varuna Bridge Dashashwamedha Road

2354161 2343264 2348670 2321097

The Mall, Cantt.

2348250-53

Shopping: Varanasi is famous for its silk weaving, and Banarasi silks are a part of every girl’s wedding trousseau. Banaras Brocades are prized the world over. Brassware, copperware, wooden and clay toys and exquisite gold jewellery are some of the other craft the city is famous for. The hand - knotted carpets of Mirzapur and musical instruments are among the other shopping attractions. Banaras is also famous for its ‘ Langda Aam’, a variety of mangoes available in the summer. Betel leaf is also a specialty. The main shopping areas are Chowk, Vishwanath Gali, Thatheri bazaar, Lahurabir, Godoulia , Dashswamedh Gali and Golghar. With hustlers and rickshaw drivers keen to drag tourists into shops offering commission, shopping in Varanasi can be a nightmare but it’s worth seeking out the city's rich Silk weaving and brasswork. The best areas to browse are the Thatheri Bazaar (for brass), Jnana Vapi and the Vishwanatha Gall with its Temple Bazaar (for silk brocade and jewellery). State run emporia in Godaulia, lahurabir and the Chowk - the three Handlooms outlets at Lahurabir, Nadesar and Neechi Bag, and Mahatex in Godaulia - of fixed prices and assured quality. Housed in a former palace opposite the Taj Hotel, Cantt, the CIE has a large and impressive selection but, despite its official-sounding name, is outrageously expensive Kashmiri-run chain aimed exclusively at the fivestar market. Sales pitches tend to become more aggressive when it comes to silk, and you need be wary of the hard-sell. Qazi Sadullahpura, near Chhavi Mahal Cinema, lies at the heart of a fascinating Muslim neighbourhood devoted to the production of silk. Upica, the government-run emporium has the advantage of fixed prices, with outlets at Godaulia opposite the Taj Hotel, Cantt. Handloom House, D64/132K Sigra, another government sponsored chain, is the best and safest place to buy silk with a modern showroom although the sales staff appear disorganized. For tailoring, try Paraslakshmi Exports, Chandrika Colony Sigra (ph: 361496), a silk business providing a good and prompt service; they'll deliver to your hotel, and also offer ready-made waistcoats and boxer shorts. M/s Bhagwan Leela Sports, 41-Sindhu Nagar Colony, Sigra, Varanasi.. M/s Mohan Silk Store, D-5/154, Vishvanath Gali, Varanasi. M/s Bhagwan Store, D-10/3, Vishvanath Gali, Varanasi. M/s J. R. Ivory, Arts & Curios, D-20, Vishvanath Gali, Varanasi. M/s Chaudhari Brothers, Thatheri Bazar, Varanasi M/s Mahalaxmi Sari House, 10, Chandrika Colony, Sigra, Varanasi. M/s Bhagwan Silks, S-10/86, Sarnath, Varanasi. M/s Mehrotra SSilk Factory, S. C. - 21/72, Englishia Line, Varanasi.

Banks: State Bank of India, Cantt, Banaras Hindu University. Indian Overseas Bank, Lahurabir. Bank of Baroda, Godoulia. Canara Bank, Nichibagh. Andhra Bank, Godoulia. Allahabad Bank, Nadesar and Chowk. Central Bank of India, Chowk. The Banaras State Bank, Luxa.

Post & Telegraph: Vishweshwar Ganj. Ph: (0542)2331398

Hospitals:

Shiv Prasad Gupta Hospital, Kabir Chaura. Ph:(0542)333723 Sir Sundar Lal Hospital B.H.U. Ph :(0542)2312542-45 Rajkiya Hospital, Shivpur . Ph : (0542)2382226 Hindu Seva Sadan , Chowk . Ph : (0542)2352143 Mata Anand Mai Hospital, Bhadaini. Ph : (0542)2310592 Ram Krishna Mission Hospital, Luxa. Ph : (0542)2321727 Marwari Hospital , Godoulia. Ph : (0542)2321456 Cancer Institute, N.E. Railway Lahartara. Ph : (0542)2425338

Tourist Information: UP Government Tourist Office, Parade Kothi, Cantt. Ph: (0542) 2206638, 2208162 UP Government Tourist Information Counter, Cantt. Railway Station, Varanasi, Near Enquiry Office, Main Hall. Ph : 2346370 Government of India Tourist Office, 15 B the Mall, Cantt, Varanasi. Ph : 2343744 Government of India Tourist Information Counter, Babatpur Airport. Bihar State Tourist Office, Englishiya Market, Sher Shah Suri Marg, Cantt. Ph : 2343821

Travel Information: AIR: Indian Airlines. Ph: 2345959, 2348637. Air India. Ph : 2346326, 2346457 RAIL: Varanasi Railway Station, Ph : 131, 132, 133 Mughal Sarai Railway Station, Ph : 92-255703, 255782