Thrifty Horsekeeping: Feed And Nutrition

Feed and Nutrition

H

orses require ample forage, vitamins, and nutrients to remain healthy. The sheer amount of feed and hay they consume on a daily basis, however, can put a strain on your finances. This chapter will address ways to conserve money when it comes to purchasing and storing hay, grain, and supplements, and how to best utilize pasture.

Anne m. eberhardt

Purchasing Hay Forage is the main component of any horse’s diet — at least 50 percent of its daily feed intake, according to Julie Wilson, DVM, of the University of Minnesota. When purchasing hay to meet these requirements, it is far more economical to buy in bulk. When you find a good deal, stock up! Doing so may also help persuade the supplier to bring the hay to you. Determine the amount of hay you need for the upcoming year (particularly if you’re feeding a large number of horses) and buy in early spring or when it is first cut and baled — before you know whether it will be a good or bad growing season. “If you wait until June or July to buy hay, and if it’s been a bad growing season, you’d pay a higher price,” says Paula Hitzler, manager of the Horse Teaching and Research Center at Michigan State University. “I’ve never paid one price early that later went down, although this could occur.”

Quality of hay is ultimately more important than price. 1

Watch the classifieds for hay on sale, but only buy it if the quality is good. Extremely underpriced hay is typically of poor quality. Hiztler recommends checking average prices through hay dealers, agriculture reports, feed stores, county extension agents, or at an agricultural university. Online resources such as The Hay Barn (www. haybarn.com), a classified ad site for hay, equipment, and services, can also be very useful. Another affordable way to purchase hay is through a cooperative with friends, neighbors, or a local organization. “Your local saddle club might be interested in creating a buying co-op,” Bob Coleman, PhD, extension specialist in the Department of Animal Science at the University of Kentucky told The Horse. “Horse owners could pay their hay money to the saddle club, and one check from the club could pay for hay.” If you want to take a more do-it-yourself route, buy hay in bulk for multiple horse owners, split delivery or transportation costs, and have everyone contribute labor for loading or unloading. If a co-op is not feasible, consider buying from a hay broker or a local farmer straight from the field. This will save you considerable money on handling and labor costs. “If you can go to a farmer and buy the hay directly from him, you will save big bucks over buying it from a dealer or your feed store, since they place a markup to make money from the hay,” advises Loretta Grosset, western performance horse breeder and owner of LL Appaloosas in Burns, Wyoming. Naturally, growing your own hay is by far the best way to save money feeding your horses. If you have the available land, consider leasing it out to a nearby farmer and arrange to keep a certain percentage of the hay in exchange for that person working the field and selling the hay.

FEED AND NUTRITION

Anne m. eberhardt

Regardless of how you obtain your hay, however, make sure it’s of good quality — weed, dust, and mold free. Poor-quality hay may cost less, but it is not economical in the long run, and not nutritional for your horse. “Lowquality hay is usually less expensive, but can be more mature, have fewer nutrients, and be less digestible. Feeding low-quality hay usually requires feeding more hay to maintain body condition,” said Wilson in the article she co-authored with Krishona Martinson, PhD, “Equine Economics: Optimizing Horse Health and Management on a Budget,” for the University of Minnesota Equine Extension program. Wilson and Martinson also recommend maintaining a consistent hay type (i.e., grass or alfalfa) to reduce health problems such as colic. High-quality hay will reduce the costs associated with adding concentrates and supplements. Remember that rectangular hay bales can vary widely in weight — anywhere from 25 to 100 pounds. To ensure you’re getting the best-value hay, ask to weigh a few random bales before buying. “Weighing feed can lead to significant savings and can bring excessive feeding (or underfeeding) under control,” says Wilson.

Providing hay in a feeder prevents wastage. Smart Storage Buying in bulk or buying extra hay when it’s cheaper, rather than during the pricey winter months, will shave off some of the costs. But you have to be able to properly store what you stock up on to get your money’s worth. If you can buy in bulk but don’t have the storage space, paying a farmer a storage fee is still usually cheaper than 2

buying high-priced hay during winter months. “Consider building a pole barn to store hay,” says Bob Mowrey, MS, PhD, an extension specialist at North Carolina State University. “If you can buy hay $2 to $2.50 cheaper per bale in summer out of the field — versus paying more in winter — this savings will build a barn.” Mowrey also suggests forming a co-op to contribute to building a large hay barn for everyone in your neighborhood. Don’t just protect your hay from the elements, also protect it from wastage and spoiling from your horse. First and foremost, feed your horse only what he needs, and use a hay feeder to ensure that very little is wasted. Wilson suggests using older hay first, “animal proofing” hay storage areas, and storing hay either inside or under a tarp if stored outside. “Hay bales stored on wet ground can take on moisture, leading to early deterioration and as much as 50 percent spoilage,” she says. “If moisture is completely void from all directions, and the hay was adequately dry when put into storage, hay can keep indefinitely.” If you use round bales, which typically save more time and money than squares, Mowrey suggests switching to wrapped bales to protect them from moisture and spoilage. After unwrapping, feed them in an enclosed structure such as a run-in shed, or use a hay tunnel (a round bale feeder) to keep them dry while they’re being eaten. Also try feeding from a ground-level manger to avoid losing hay that gets thrown on the ground and trampled. “Studies at Texas Tech showed horses utilize 35 percent more from a feeder, versus no feeder, in a protected area like a shed,” says Coleman. Another hay-saving and, therefore, cost-saving measure is to bring horses inside a stall to eat their hay. According to TheHorse.com, nutritionists have estimated that horses fed outside in a group situtation waste up to 20 percent of their hay by spreading it out, trampling it, or using it as bedding. Allow your horse to self-regulate its hay intake by providing free-choice hay, ensuring that you aren’t wasting hay by feeding more than your horse needs. “Horses will actually eat more if hay is restricted than if it is provided free choice,” says Juliet M. Getty, PhD, of Getty Equine Nutrition. “If given hay free choice, a horse will overeat at first — for a few days — and then he will start to eat more slowly, calm down, and only eat what his body needs.”

FEED AND NUTRITION

PASTURE Hay is not the only source of forage for your horse — pasture also helps fulfill his nutritional and feed requirements, but does so with less impact on your wallet. In fact, the cheapest, least labor-intensive means of providing the bulk of a horse’s nutrition is through high-quality pasture — the grass of choice being Kentucky bluegrass, because it withstands close and continuous grazing better than most other grasses. Relying on pasture to meet your horse’s forage requirements is particularly useful in areas of the country where and hay and freight costs are high. “Utilize pasture as an affordable way to meet a horse’s nutritional requirements,” says Wilson. “To maximize your pasture productivity, consider implementing a rotational grazing system, avoiding overgrazing, testing soil every three years, fertilizing if needed, resting pastures for thirty days after grazing, mowing, dragging, and controlling weeds.” Increased pasture forage can help reduce the costs of both hay and grain, but to achieve this you need to ensure you are properly cultivating and managing your pastureland. If you plan to extend your horse’s grazing you may need to seed and fertilize the grass, as poorly managed pastures supply little feed and are often the source of internal parasites. However, make sure you’re not fertilizing unnecessarily, as this can get quite expensive. A soil test (kits and information are available through your county extension office) will determine acidity, nutrient levels, and fertilizer requirements.

Anne m. eberhardt

Don’t be fooled if your fields appear green and lush — they may be full of weeds and “roughs,” or areas containing piles of manure. You still need to mow and weed pastures regularly, which will minimize the lawns and roughs syndrome. Removing manure piles and spreading them over the field will encourage horses to use more of the land for grazing, as they don’t like to graze where they defecate. Rotational grazing will also cut down on roughs and provide maximum forage yield. “Subdividing pastures and using rotational or controlled grazing can greatly extend pasture,” says Mowrey. Overgrazed pasture is always an issue, but it too can be avoided by instituting a rotation system, or subdividing sizable pastures with inexpensive fencing or a portable roundpen. For larger herds, divide your pasture into sections big enough so the horses can consume the grass in approximately two weeks. Then, move them to a new section. If through subdividing and rotating you have plenty of quality forage for your horses and then some, consider leasing your extra pasture to those in need. Likewise, Grosset suggests renting pasture from others when needed to save on hay expenses. “And for those who do have pasture, but it is limited, one way to preserve it is by creating a dry lot and turning out horses for limited periods of time,” she says.

Good pasture meets much of a horse’s nutritional needs

3

GRAIN Grain purchasing strategies are not too dissimilar from those recommended for buying hay. However, grain does not store as well, retaining its nutritional value only for a couple months. “Any commercial feed that is fortified with vitamins should be finished within three months,” says Getty. “Otherwise the vitamins will be destroyed and the horse will not get the nutrients listed on the label.” Buying grain in bulk, therefore, is only practical for operations of ten or more horses. Do stock up on as much as you reasonably can store while the market is low, and take advantage of co-op arrangements. When purchasing grain, look for smaller or local manufacturers that may offer a lower price. Some feed stores will offer a discount or free delivery for buying large quantities of grain, but if you can do the hauling yourself, ask if there are any broken bags you can have thrown in for a fraction of the price. Also compare ingredients and quality of lower-priced generic feeds from a local store to determine whether it

FEED AND NUTRITION

Anne m. eberhardt

makes more sense to buy that product rather than a large name brand. Remember that, like hay, bargain-priced feeds most likely have lower nutrition values. The money you would spend to supplement your horse could end up being more than what you would pay for a quality feed in the first place. “Feed premium feed — it really is less expensive,” says equine clinician and author Lisa Wysocky. “You can feed fewer pounds per day because the food is better quality, and you can ensure fewer instances of colic; less muscle, bone, and ligament breakdown; and a reduced chance of founder. Every feed company has equine nutritionists who (sometimes free of charge) can find the best combination of feed for each of your horses.”

Overfeeding is a common and costly mistake. Also ensure you are providing enough forage for your horse that he or she does not need an excessive amount of grain to meet nutritional requirements. “Adult, idle (non-working and non-reproducing) horses can have their energy and nutritional requirement met with good quality hay alone with the addition of a ration balancer; these horses do not usually require grain,” says Wilson. “To determine whether grain or other supplements are needed, hay should be analyzed for quality (energy, protein, calcium and phosphorus). Having hay analyzed by a laboratory costs very little compared to purchasing grains that are not needed. Working, growing, and reproducing horses do have greater energy requirements and may need grain to help meet those requirements.” “Rather than feeding high amounts of grain, horse owners should consider a fat supplement if the horse truly 4

needs more calories, and is already being fed the best hay the owner can get,” suggests Getty. Horses that may need extra calories include those that are heavily exercised, lactating, growing, or breeding. Because grain is only necessary for additional calories, over-feeding is a common and costly mistake. According to Getty, a horse not being exercised needs only free-choice forage and a vitamin/mineral supplement to fill in the gaps. Otherwise, horses should be fed according to their weight and body condition, not by the coffee can. “Overfeeding of grain is a significant problem, based often more on our cultural expectations than need,” says Wilson. “The first step [toward preventing over-feeding] needs to be a realistic assessment of a horse’s body condition — if the horse is more than a 5 on the Henneke scale, it does not need grain, just a ration balancer, along with at least 10 percent of its body weight a day in hay/pasture.” Become educated about your horses’ feed requirements by consulting with an equine nutritionist and investing in a scale to feed more efficiently. Finally, avoiding feed wastage and spoilage will always save money. Use a feeder or container that will not tip over and waste feed when your horse is eating. This can be accomplished cost-free by placing a few large, smooth stones in a feed tub. If necessary, throw a dollar store shower cap on feed buckets so their contents do not become rodent or bird food. Over-Supplementation Over the years, supplements have grown in popularity and occupied a larger and larger portion of horses’ diets. A point of contention, however, lies in their effectiveness and whether or not a horse really needs so many expensive additions. Types of horses do require and benefit from them, but any expert will tell you not to throw away money over-supplementing your horse. More is not always better, particularly for you wallet. “Situations that may warrant supplementation include; when poor quality forage is fed, growing horses, broodmares in late gestation, early lactation, correcting nutritional deficiencies, healing of bone and soft tissue injuries, treating metabolic disorders and high levels of intense exercise,” says Amy M. Gill, PhD, equine nutritionist. “Care must be taken not to duplicate and overfeed vitamins and minerals when using supplements.” If you buy supplements for your horse but are not well-

FEED AND NUTRITION

services and state agricultural laboratories will test your hay so you know for sure what kind of supplementation is necessary to adequately nourish your horses. Know what your horse needs to stay healthy, and then provide it only in the quantities he needs.” Some supplements, such as those proclaiming to boost strength and stamina, are becoming increasingly popular on the market, but, according to Gill, their effectiveness is difficult to prove. “Many equine performance-enhancing supplements are based on results from human studies and may not be applicable,” she says. It may be more economical to avoid these kinds of supplements.

Anne m. eberhardt

educated about his nutritional needs, you may be oversupplementing him. For instance, one commonly overused supplement is protein. There’s really no performance advantage to gain from it, and it’s expensive. If you feel you need to cut back, this is often the first place to start. Where over-supplementation frequently falls beneath the radar is when you are feeding your horse duplicate amounts of vitamins and minerals. Commercial feeds are generally fortified with many of the vitamins and minerals your horse needs, but if overfed or additionally supplemented, the horse may become obese and insulin resistant, leading to laminitis. “Only feed commercial feeds if the horse is exercised and needs additional calories,” says Getty. “And choose one that is not high in starch and sugar — too much of these non-structural carbohydrates can cause hormonal imbalances that can damage the feet (laminitis) as well as affect behavior.” Make sure you read the labels on commercial feeds and additives so you know exactly what and how much your horse is taking in. Determine his energy requirements based on the kind of work he is doing and the quality of forage he receives, and only add onto that what is needed. If your horse’s basic diet of hay and grain is of good quality and already provides most of the vitamins and minerals he needs, chances are you don’t need to spend more money by adding to the mix. “If you’re feeding your horse concentrated feed products and nutritional supplements, there’s a good chance that at least some of what you’re buying is not really necessary,” adds Elizabeth Clarke, Massachusetts equine lawyer and head of the Equine Business Institute. “Most extension

Over-supplementing is an expensive mistake. 5

When to Supplement Supplementation ultimately depends on what is being fed and what kind of work your horse is doing. According to Getty, hay-only diets have many nutritional gaps since vitamins are lost from hay the longer it is stored. Lush, fresh pasture, however, contains most of the vitamins and minerals a horse requires for maintenance, and would not warrant extra supplementation. Commercial feeds are generally supplemented with nutrients, but must be fed according to the directions for the horse to receive what he needs. If less is fed, a vitamin/mineral supplement is then necessary, particularly if the horse is not grazing on fresh pasture. Many horses, particularly older ones or those in intense work, may need hoof or joint supplements. But again, be careful not to over-supplement. “There is a tendency to overlap supplements by giving a vitamin/mineral supplement plus joint or hoof supplements,” says Getty. “Often times an older horse, for example, can do just as well with additional vitamin C and flaxseed meal to protect his joints than an expensive joint supplement.” For horses than require extra calories, Wilson suggests that rather than feeding high amounts of grain, horse owners should consider a fat supplement alongside high-­quality hay. However, avoid paying for supplements claiming to encourage weight gain, as feeding high quality forage and concentrates with higher fat content is the most effective way to increase gain. Also avoid wasting money on supplements aimed toward correcting behavioral problems and excitability. “Many remedies have been tried as a solution to behavioral problems including herbal preparations, pheromones, vitamins, minerals and magnets,” says Gill, “But in most

FEED AND NUTRITION

Anne m. eberhardt

cases, reducing starch and sugar in the ration and increasing exercise helps quiet a fractious horse.” Hoof and coat supplements are typically quite effective, but results are not immediate. You may feel like you’re spending a lot of money for very little immediate improvement. “Hoof and coat supplements generally contain vitamins and minerals, amino acids, and essential fatty acids (EFA’s) to improve the quality of new growth,” says Gill. “The effectiveness of these products takes some time to see; coat improvement generally can be noted within 30 to 60 days but hoof quality improvement ranges from three to six months to be observed.” If you don’t see any obvious changes or improvements in your horse’s condition over the course of several months after adding a supplement, you might as well save money by discontinuing it. Not all horses are going to respond to products the same way. Ultimately, if your horse does need a particular supplement for long period of time, save money by buying in bulk.

Do not overfeed your horse beyond his requirements. dried, and stored as hay, it loses these nutrients. At this point it would then be important to supply a comprehensive supplement. And, of course, the cheapest and most important nutrient you can provide for your horse is fresh, clean water. The bottom line when it comes to cost-effectively feeding your horse to maintain good health is this: Horses need good forage — hay and/or pasture — at all times. Add water, a white salt block, and a vitamin/mineral supplement to fill in the gaps (particularly in the case of hay-only diets or poor quality pasture), and the horse will be fine. Concentrated meals are only necessary when the horse is working, in training, or performing. You can adjust how much you feed or supplement according to your horse’s needs, but never restrict forage.

Alternatives Ensuring your horse meets all his nutritional requirements is important, but there are less-costly alternatives to overloading on supplements. Rather than spending a lot of money on a fat supplement, for example, consider just adding oil to your horse’s feed. When buying salt for your horse, Gill suggests choosing less-expensive white iodized salt over red mineral salt. “There is very little difference between the two, just a lot of iron oxide in the red salt that gives it the red color. Horse diets are already loaded with plenty of iron, so it is a waste of money to buy anymore iron,” she notes in her article, “Myths and Misconceptions: Debunking Feeding Myths.” As Getty noted earlier, a less expensive alternative to a joint supplement is vitamin C and omega 3 fatty acids such as those from flaxseed meal. As an added bonus, omega 3 fatty acids also protect immune function, internal organs, hooves, and coats. After all, supplements such as those for joints are not intended to prevent problems, but aimed toward improving them. Remember that Mother Nature provides your horse with many of the vitamins and minerals he needs when grazing on quality grass. “Fresh grass has vitamin E, vitamin C, beta carotene (precursor to vitamin A production), vitamin D, and omega 3 fatty acids which are all very important to a horse’s health,” says Getty. But once the grass is cut, 6