The Riparian Neighbours

The Riparian Neighbours

The Riparian Neighbours

by Syed Kamran Razvi

© Author, 2008, New Delhi India. Email: [email protected] DEDICATED: Dedicated to those who never got the chance to return or choice to be buried where they were born because of riparian dispute between neighbours. November 30, 2008.

1

The Riparian Neighbours

Table of Contents Chapter One…………………………………………….……3 Chapter Two…………………………………………..……21 Chapter Three………………………………………..…….41 Chapter Four………………………………………….…...64 Chapter Five………………………………………....…….79 Chapter Six…………………………………………….…..86 Chapter Seven……………………………………………..94 Chapter eight……………………………………………..123 Chapter Nine……………………………………………...221 Chapter Ten…………………………………………….…262 End Notes……………………………………………….... 264

2

The Riparian Neighbours

CHAPTER ONE It was late morning arrival to the notes of Gurbani, that the Tata-Amritsar Express came to a gradual halt at its final destination, Amritsar city. The passengers unlike the train compartments were still sleepy, specially children. The pleasant breeze blowing across the railway platform, which had no shade, was still a contrast to the dusty and nauseating Delhi. The passengers were to travel further and cross the border in the northwestern sector of India's neighbourhood. It was not a trail of refugees, which has for long been obvious at the platform several times in the short span of decades of upheavals. The journey in perspective retained the sorrow despite the time lapse. The annals of history puzzled the forlone border of land of five rivers, Punj-Ab. Perhaps it drew immunity to unparallel animosity between settlors and outsiders as an entrepot to sub-continent riches. However, in the past few decades, it has been notorious for the inward circulation of those who were all permanent settlors. The cycle was repeated with equal indiffirence each time and occasion. The trans-national border was the nomenclature by which it was now baptized. Indeed, it was marked by the scarred memories of bloodbath relived by many old and middleaged passengers, on each journey. The horror, the 3

The Riparian Neighbours

tell-tale was like a demon’s grip yet to be exorcised. In the month of spring a little before long summer vacations. Young Ahmed about 12 years, Li'l Saif half of Ahmed‘s age, their eldest sister Bilqis, older by two years to Ahmed, were to spend the summervacations meeting their cousins across the borders. It would be their first ever live interaction. They were travelling with their mother who was a free-lance writer-journalist, Uzma. All their real maternal and paternal uncles, aunts migrated to the new state of Pakistan, soon after its inception, one after another. They left to seek earnings, which were so lost, as their status and property, to the diktats of newly established order of governance. None though visualisd the perils of migration, for long they have been settled now. “The terra ferma, the colourless aqua, the lush vegetation, all was theirs for centuries, it was all in the family shijara(lineage).” Although, the compulsion to migrate for many being inevitable. The times stood frozen and enslaved by the sad realities of the artifical borders. A frail voice with tears once wrote:1 Dastak dene walei bhi thhei, Dastak sunnei walei bhi thhei, 1 Translation of Urdu couplet by Jaun Ilya, a migrant poet. 4

The Riparian Neighbours

Is ek viran basti mein Kai ek makan apnei bhi thei…. The translation reads :

“there were those who would knock at the doors, so lived those who would welcome, Now what appears deserted, Was once lined by our homes ….” By now both the passengers and the platform were awake to the post-dawn shade of the morning. The currency-exchanger counter also opened, some queued earlier. Although a counter existed at Delhi platform but the rate of exchange was favourable here, by about fifteen paise. In the administrered regime, the rate of exchange would vary by just a distance of 500 Kms. Both politics and economics ran together in complimentary fashion. Such being the affairs between the Riparian neighbours. There was the usual rush of travellers to the kiosks to purchase merchandise like cocunut, pineapple, Betel leaves, all as gifts for their relatives. Ahmed's family was no exception so they also purchased the “gifts”. These “gifts” were the commodities, which were once so integral part of their (migrants) dietary preferences and taste. 5

The Riparian Neighbours

The railway-station gradually began to receive the passengers from the other trains, taking passengers further upwards in Northern direction towards Jammu and to other destinations down Southwards.

"Children"!, their mother called, come let's go for breakfast. There were no proper eatries at the platform, so the family decided to go to some decent restaurant next to the railway station. "Ahmed you watch the luggage, we have our breakfast, thereafter you go", said his mother. The platform was the segregated one, where only the Pakistan-bound passengers were waiting, for the arrival of the train that would carry them to the last border point of Atari, the point of land customs under Indian jurisdiction. There were some others who preferred to cross the border via road, which was Wagah check-post. In fact the family who travelled alongwith the Khan's from Delhi, opted for road link and bid good-bye to each other. It was bit convenient to travel by road. "O'dear son is your mother around" asked a tall gentle-man of atheletic-built. "Yes she is also here, but why do you ask?", Ahmed with indifference. He surveyed him head to toe. This stranger, a fair complexioned man was wearing a white shirt 6

The Riparian Neighbours

with blue trousers, and sandals. The winter chill was no longer an affair in month of April, some claimed climatactic change. "Aha ! Adab arz2" Surender sahib", Ahmed's mother wished from behind. Bilqis and Saif were a step behind to her holding a flask and some packets. " Adab Arz, madam", Surender wished back his superior's wife. "Madam! , Sir, has asked me to meet you all, as he was worried about your travel. He also wanted me to tell you that he has been given assignment further-up in Ladakh region to work on the National Highway project" Surinder said in a polite tone in a courteous manner. He smiled very little. "Oh, but he promised to meet us here", spoke disappointed Bilqis. Her fists closed, bearing expression of agitation, her pink complexion grew rosier. She was sentimental and somewhat possessive; a caring sister and a loving daughter. Their father Saghir Khan was a civil engineer much dedicated to his work and family. His professional capabilities made him popular with the establishment, but it kept him busy and away from family. Saghir was expert in Road building and Dam constructions in mountainous terrain with international accredition. Such qualified men were scarce in the government and outside. As widely appreciated was his work, 2 Urdu for Greetings, spokes while gently raising right hand upto forehead with little bend. 7

The Riparian Neighbours

with offers around the globe to work for their firms. But he couldn’t be tantalised for his simple motto, “Brain drain is what kills the wealth of a nation”. The deep wedge between North and South gave birth to many idealistic viewpoints. "Are you on a holiday, and how is your wife, she must be angry with Mr.Khan, for holding you to the work", Uzma remarked jovially. "Oh no madam not at all", Surinder blushed. “ Hahaha...!”. "Madam my wife is eager to meet you all but some guests arrived this morning so she asked me to apologise on her behalf and invites you, to our place on your return journey." Surinder spoke, as he affectionately lifted-up Saif into his arms. "Ahmed you can go along with your sister, and have something to eat." Uzma said to her son Ahmed. "Oh you haven't had the break fast, so far", asks Surinder, who looked concern. Come I will take you there, the train I believe should be here around 10:00, in say about an hour or so," said while looking at his watch., "...yes I think so, the last time when I went the customs point was at Amritsar only."Uzma. "That must be many years ago..hmmm….Madam if my memory serves me right". There after a while the train arrived, it was bit early to its schedule that day, so there was no usual scramble for seats that day. 8

The Riparian Neighbours

Surinder purchased the ticket uptil Lahore for the family. They thanked their unexpected pleasant host. Just as the family was about to bid farewell, somebody pleasantly interjected. "Namaste Sir", Surinder nodded and smiled. The man wearing the Railway T.T.E3. uniform introduced himself as Prakash Hudda. "Sir, I am going with this train till Atari thereafter I will tell my counter-part to take care of your guests.

Surinder being one of the few high-ranking Civil servants well recognized for their achievements especially after the recent floods devastating the entire northern India.

"This is Mrs.Saghir ", Surinder. Oh…!, what a…. pleasure…!, Madam Saghir sahib is a hero of farmers over here.",said Prakash. Prakash then hurriedly looked at his watch, assuring them to meet at the Atari Stop. The guard at the end waved the green flag , as the train got the signal for clear passage. The Engine honked and honked and with a gentle pull the giant snake moved on its belly. 3 Travel Ticket Examiner 9

The Riparian Neighbours

"Wish you a safe journey,…, children do not forget to visit us on your return.I shall take you around the city and nearby picnic spots." Ahmed tried to peep-out from the window but the newly installed grills would prevent him from doing so, as part of recent safety measures introduced by the railways following many unfortunate accidents. Meanwhile the train had gained a little speed hopping on the rails criss crossing as the snake and ladders as complex puzzle to be solved at the busy junction as Amritsar.

The olive-green wagons bearing fire insignia and warning of "inflammable" crossed the red of the passenger wagons. Their First Class coach was practically empty. In fact, that day, they were lucky to have it for usually the railways never preferred to have the coach, for its own reasons. Soon it was the green of fields, women labourers, a lone railtrack and a whistling engine. These fields had number of times seen themselves ravaged by the likes of explosives. The same women have fed the warring soldiers, and much like these fields have retained their natural selves. The train had been running for over an hour or so but for the clickety clack, there was complete silence in 10

The Riparian Neighbours

the cabin when a familiar voice called "Madam!, we are approaching the customs point, you please give me your passport and visa papers.". This was the T.T.E, who they had met at the Amritsar station. "Many thanks! Although, it has been decades that I passed these fields, they look still so familiar. The last time I accompanied my father then the customs point was at the Amritsar." Uzma said reminiscingly. "...Every custom officer was familiar with us as it was a regular annual routine till my marriage….” “…. No custom officer would check our baggage out of sheer respect for my father, He was a doctor. And they would ask him about their ailments or even get

prescription for their family members….Yes some very nice days…!" she sighed. Then Uzma smiled at her listeners and handed the passport and visa papers to the T.T.E., who then left. Ahmed tried to read his mothers emotions, the intensity of which so far eluded but kept him bemused. The Atari Railway station was in no way different from any 'C' category Railway platform and it barely resembled a customs point, "Hey! Where was the army, the bellowing guns, smoltering bunkers, etc. that sustained the war news, the hysteria, every day in the newspapers? 11

The Riparian Neighbours

Ahmed in silence observed the rush, the melee around a single table and chair occupied by a police officer. He was stamping the papers for Immigration clearance. There was no war machinery although the whole ambience was nevertheless the same and equally unfriendly. Coolies in red shirts who promised the visitors to expedite the matters for a ransom amount of Rs.100-200, which would mean the one-fourth of his total salary, which he received from railways. In fact Ahmed's mother argued that they charge them as per schedule chart, the coolie replied, "madam here no rates apply…" Meanwhile the T.T.E returned and reprimanded the coolie, who was immediately repentant and offered to lift their luggage for free.

The rank in Bureaucracy and status were important and key ingredients for extended general courtesy to citizens. The family did not have any problem with the customs, for their status was told to the custom authorities. In fact the Asstt.Commissioner incharge offered to play host, while soft drinks were served to the visiting family. He soon excused himself for inspection of the custom proceedings. 12

The Riparian Neighbours

The only unusual thing was that once the entry into custom clearance zone, was made (which was marked by the grills pointed at the tips as a lance), none was allowed to move out, till the train from Lahore has arrived. The zone was distinguished by a shop (not a duty-free shop) with a strange mix of merchandise; i.e. coconuts, pineapples some spices, and beetel leaves as at Amritsar station. Ahmed's mother went to the shop and bought some quantity for each variety of all the available merchandise as permissible, but sold here at a higher price (premium on demand and location). Though, these were to be the “Luxury” gifts which were not available in Pakistan. This shop also offered a rather novel citrus fruit, " Ma ! ,Is this orange?" asked Ahmed, ".. No son this is malta found in

Pakistan only, very juicy, you can have them in plenty during the stay", said his mother while paying the money. Ahmed indeed enjoyed the refreshing citrus drink, all through his stay. It was only on his return home, that he could fathom how the culinary preferences and the taste buds are inseverable routines. Political deprivation of taste…buds. 13

The Riparian Neighbours

The family was seated at a bench, waiting for the train to arrive. Uzma thanked the T.T.E and gently whispered, if he would like her to get something from Pakistan for him or his family? , "No, No madam thank you", said Prakash shyly. "No please do tell me," Uzma. "Well madam an American georgette sari for my wife would be all, if that does not bother you," humbly Prakash came out. Ahmed was looking at a table where the Commissioner was standing explaining something to a short-heighted Afghan, who was carrying whole cosmetic shop in his two huge freight boxes. The law prohibited such large consignment, even on payments of duty. The short Afghan was adamant and claimed to be penniless. Meanwhile, the Commissioner had to leave to attend a phone call. The officer at the table asked him to leave a few boxes and to quickly get lost, before the Commissioner returned for the round. "I will explain the sahib that you didn't have the money so we reduced the quantity" the officer said. "What brother you are worse than Russians", the Afghan kept back his turban and moved with his freight, musing at the loss. 14

The Riparian Neighbours

Apparently in an era of mercantile freeze, this was the best way out to deal with the demand for the goods on either side of the border. Ahmed was lost to the perplexing situation of the few odd men reeling under the policies and laws, "Hello! Mr.Philosopher...” called Bilqis his elder sister, “you are suppose to help us", Ahmed snapped " Huh…yes ", and lifted his bag and Hot-case (his responsibility). The T.T.E. helped them board the green and yellow striped bogies of Pakistan Railways, while half were simple Indian Red, hence the train got name "Samjhota (agreement) Express". Meanwhile the custom authorities also increased their pace while sifting through the baggage of the arriving passengers. The visitors struggled to repack their entire baggage whole once again. They were repeating the same exercise with just forty-five minutes of intervening period. The time train took to cover distance upto Lahore.

The platform wore the same deserted look, as at the time of their arrival the outbound passengers. 15

The Riparian Neighbours

“So, now why the delay! Everyone wondered, apparently it was the two middle-aged ladies who were being questioned about the contents of the jar which contained some pickle. The ladies contention, that they would not empty the jar as the whole pickle would get spoiled, and that it was years that their brother has tasted the special pickle, which they prepared with great care and affection. The customs suspected something foul, as the smuggling activities were on a rise. Their superintendent got a clean vessel from a nearby canteen and asked them to empty the jars into it. They could not find anything, the two women bickered the custom officials, who still suspected them. Finally the arguments ended and with the last passengers in the train moved for its destination Lahore with its share of visitors to Pakistan. It was late-noon hour, this being the same train which brought the passengers from Lahore; the India bound passengers. The train has barely crossed the platform end when the mounted police-men escorted the train which cruised at 40 kmph and never went faster than that, till it reached the border, which was marked by small cement mile-stone, covered by wild grass all over; as an old grave. The mounted police had stopped galloping and as it crossed the no man’s land, the train was once 16

The Riparian Neighbours

again surrounded by the horsemen, but these were the Pakistan Rangers, while some of the other Rangers, watched the train from a distance through binoculars. Had it not been for the color difference of the uniform it was difficult to know the borders so lightly etch-marked. The children were excited about their escorts, which would befit only to a VIP status. Though later on narrating the same experience it was explained to them by Uncle Ahmar those horse-men escorted the train to prevent smuggling mainly noarcotics. Ahmed and others felt let down by such revelation. Ahmed an illusionist, immediately compared the situation befitting the magnanimous mughal emperor mounted on his white elephant escorted by his cavalry entering the newly built Lahore fort! As the train sped-past a dusty village, the train was challenged by a small village boy wearing just a dirty shirt with a half-torn pocket, who tried to run along attempting to beat the speeding train. He pelted few stones, who missed their target but much to chagrin of passengers. The muezzin's call for late-noon prayers came from a distance. Although the Minaret was nowhere visible, but apparently the lone concrete 17

The Riparian Neighbours

structure amidst the mud-houses was the one. The faithful spread their prayer-mats and read the shortened prayersi. The sun was preparing to set and rise somewhere else till next day's dawn in this part of the world. The weather for the month of April-end was pleasant but the rail journey was bit tiring, despite the short distance and duration. It was so characteristic wherever the Iron curtain was laid. At this moment there was sudden silence as two rangers sat at their berths, Ahmed looked inside the cabin alarmed by this sudden silence inside. He saw their very unique dress, it was the shalwar-kameez, the outfit quite common in Punjab and North-west area. Ahmed was face-to-face with the enemy's soldiers for the first time. He couldn’t ask them, despite the urge to do so, how they got inside the moving train, and what was they looking for. After the silence of minute or two, the Rangers left, they were probably looking for someone. The old lady sitting adjacent on single seat told Uzma, "...they are the new Pakistan Rangers and they board the train as it slows down after crossing the Indian border. They are the youngest force manning the borders and a favorite of the ‘Adminstrator’ ". The old lady was returning after a visit to her brother who lived in north Indian state of Utttar Pradesh, and had her grand-son in 18

The Riparian Neighbours

the same force. "Bibi my brother was in Indian Army who retired recently, it was always painful for us each time there was a war", the old lady said. "Begum Sahiba my brother is in Customs, we hope to meet him at the station." and the conversation continued while Ahmed watched around fascinated and excited, like many of his co-passengers. The train by its mechanical-self with its daily load of passengers for the day appeared to be least bothered about the daggers-drawn, inside or outside its compartments. Its role was fixed and well-assigned. For its mechanical clicketyclack the confusion as in mortals never reigned. Forever it has lost the emotions when it carried the loads of compartments full of butchered and stinking human bodies with lone driver and a guard to be the lone pall-bearer. The repitition of tales of horror on each occasion reminded them to be as mechanical as they were designed for. The destination was very near as the huge garrison buildings over-shadowed the rail-racks. It slowed down a bit. The young rangers disembarked. Ahmed quickly peeped-out to have the last look of the man. As the two pair of eyes met, the borderguard gently waved back, as the bugle was 19

The Riparian Neighbours

sounded in the background marking the sunset hour. The clickety-clack was more at ease with the civilian rush who often pour more tears than their blood, as the eyes which saw decades, with lost hopes. Those Retreating soldiers whom the train took home were tattered lots, as they were forced to make peace. It was the notorious customs at their job again, keeping the visitors on their toes. This time it was the Pakistani Authorities. There was a rush of relatives at the custom barricades. There were the ‘same’ coolies in their green shirts, to distinguish them of their Red shirt Indian counterparts. They offered the visitors free and easy passage through the point for a few hundred rupees. The "rates" varied on the size of merchandise and the number of lugguage. The very sight of many estranged ones left the eyes flowing till they dried to the realism of meeting the long-seperated and divided. As the family disembarked, Uzma searched hard for the familiar face wearing the warmth and affection....of lost sibling! Suddenly a young custom official interrupted her sight "you must be Mohtarmaii Uzma Begum ...” the man continued in his heavy 20

The Riparian Neighbours

but subdued tone".... I am Asif Jahangir, Asst. Collector here ". He was a tall and formidable Baluch dressed in impeccable customs white. Uzma smiled back, "Sir has asked me to escort you and children home ". Uzma's eldest borther was now Commissioner Customs for the upper Pakistan Division. Ahmed and others were visibly disappointed. Their escort consoled "....Sire was equally eager to be here, but for an unscheduled and crucial meeting with CMLAiii_".

"...But he will be home as soon as the meeting ends". "Here children" said another man, he had orange juice cans, and proudly remarked ".... this is famous Malta fruit of our land” . The first sip made the juice the lasting favourite. Even the Nagpur (India) Orange variety would not stand the juicy value. It educated Ahmed why coconuts, mangoes and pineapples which his mother purchased, like so many other visitors were so precious a gift, after all. One just can't forget the taste and food habits acquired during childhood. 21

The Riparian Neighbours

Uzma discussed the custom arrangements and settings with the official escorting them as they waited for the Passport to be stamped. The very same junior officer fetched their passports as they all waited in the Customs VIP guest-room at the platform. The privileges very often set their own distinct rules.

22

The Riparian Neighbours

Chapter Two " Sir !, the car is ready " said the same man who fetched their passports and Citrus fruit juice. A porter fetched his manual iron trolley, its wheel well Lubricated, yet it made the unpleasant noise as it bumped on the uneven surface of the platform. The other colleague who was standing outside would help him off load the luggage. They in a swift fashion moved the trolley towards the official Car Parking zone. The massive forecourt at the railway station was ever impressive. The front facade was Victorian as any other major railway station in the sub-continent. The colonial legacy was evident and alive. Meanwhile the visitor’s convoy drove out. Children and their mother along with the same elderly man who took the driver's seat drove in the same car. It was followed by another car, which had their luggage and their escort. The third one was a security escort. It was a white villys jeep with commandos from Customs wing. The two cars were of Opel make, one was white the other was metllaic sea-green. The white one was marked as Pakistan Customs. The unique feature of their first itenary; Lahore impressed visitors as they meandered through the extensive canals all over giving crude semblance of Venice. 23

The Riparian Neighbours

There were few boys and men who were bathing and swimming as the vehicles fast sped by. The elderly

man pointed out to an old colonial building. That is State Bank of Pakistan, which happens to be our central bank. "you mean like our Reserve Bank of India ", Bilqis said from behind “."...yes bibi! " . “After this turn on the right you can see the gate at the end that is where Begum Saheb (their aunt) teaches. The Medical College is situated slightly off the way that is where your sister is a medical intern”. The roads were slightly bumpy and needed repair. They have been driving for about half an hour, when their car halted at a small market corner. There was a huge Bakery and General Store, both were suppose to be the best in Lahore. Their convoy started once again, after some eatables, etc, were purchased. The convoy once again came to a halt. The wireless in their car beeped. The message was from the car behind, their escort Asif Jahangir said "Rex is home, Roger to lead ", and as everybody heard the message, the car immediately behind sped fast and now lead the convoy. The elderly-looking man smiled and said 24

The Riparian Neighbours

"Saheb ! is home", as to elate the visitors. "Oh you mean Ammu! is home !", erupted Bilqis excitedly. They convoy has now entered the cantonment zone, where some huge Bungalows, formed the unique scape. This was home to headquarters of Punjab Regiment and some others regiments4. The convoy passed two roundabouts and then on a wide lane slowed down, took the left turn and stopped in front of a massive house. This was their uncle's house. " Is it official residence, Ammi ?, asked Ahmed . " No ....!" said Uzma . The car in front was parked outside while their car was parked behind the other private and official cars inside the porch. The Bungalow had a massive parking place and a huge lawn in front of the main structure and entrance. Their car was parked right under the canopy of the porch. In the lawn there lay few garden chairs and a table neatly laid with breakfast items. There were butlers in their impeccable white and turbans all over the place and few security men in plain clothes around. Then a familiar-looking face 4 This is the system of marking the army under administrative and fighting units. British Army system. 25

The Riparian Neighbours

appeared, towards whom their mother rushed ....Bhaijan !iv. ".....My Dear Usi ! ....". This was Ahmed's uncle. Next was the fortified house of Lieutenant General "...So, these are my children! Come to me”. Uncle Ahmar blessed and hugged them all.

"Come Asif let us have a cup of tea first, and Qaziji (the elderly-looking man), why didn't you pick Marina, along on your way home ". ".... Saheb ", walking just a step behind Ahmar ".... On my way to Railway station she has asked me to take her along, but there was some emergency at the Hospital, because of a V.I.P. visit in the same area. She should be back in an hour or so". " Saheb it must be CMLA 's visit, the area falls under the jurisdiction of the Medical College ", Asif Jahangir, their escort added. "...So these Doctors are also suppose to stay on V.I.P. visits ..." , Ahmar murmured as if to himself only. While the visitors washed and changed. The tea was laid. Everybody joined including 26

The Riparian Neighbours

Qaziji, the elderly-looking man seemed to be a close and personal confidant of Ahmar's. The visitors sipped tea and had refreshments, while they chatted endlessly with each other. Uncle Ahmar had a unique sense of humour. "...Here children, this is a Havana Cigar, Castro’s favourite. But for fear of CIA trying to poison him, so Cubans thought it best to have export them to Pakistan. Now the Pakis are thinking to use them on Russian Generals in Afghanistan...", “ Hahahahaha….!!!!!!!!!. Everybody listened attentively not realising his subtle mocking manners.

"... However the Pakistani Customs wants the duty to be paid on these exports to Afghanistan, but the Administrator (CMLA)v wants us to wave the procedure”. “….However, the white of customs refuses to bow to the likes of olive. This was the topic of our meeting today”. Everybody smiled as they realised his funny streak. Ahmar without any expression continued "...Now what do you think we (Customs) should do?" 27

The Riparian Neighbours

"Did you pay the duty on the Cigars ", Ahmed asked innocently, as uncle Ahmar lit the Cigar nonchalantly. "Did we ?" uncle Ahmar to his Aide Asif , "I think so, Sir, as it is on the prohibited list." replied Asif in his characteristic serious manner. "This is the argument I am going to put before CMLA, which my young boy just suggested..." he continued. " Asif what do you think of my nephew , isn't he brilliant ?!" . Asif smilingly "He is Sir!". "Ammu !, he is brilliant in such things but not his studies ", remarked Bilqis . "... You seem to envy this boy! ..." Uncle Ahmar. "They are never at peace..." Uzma their mother complained. "They are innocent ..." interjected Qazi. It was now late-noon, when muezzin called for the late noon prayers. One after another they got up for the prayers. Asif left and invited the visitors to his home. As Asif's car left, an ambulance halted just in front of the gate and out came a girl with a stethescope and a white lab coat casually laid at her left shoulder. Ahmed and Saif who sat facing the main entrance could see the people coming in 28

The Riparian Neighbours

and going out through the huge glass panes. They rushed outside to receive their cousin sister. " Nina Appivi is here ", as they entered the lounge. Saif walked to her left while Ahmed held her right hand. Nina ruffled her fingers through Ahmed's hair and walked him close to herself. "Where were you going anyway?, “Well I just decided to boycott your house in protest as you did not come to receive us, as promised… ", Ahmed sarcasm was out at first meeting. "Oh, I am sorry, but today I had a very important assignment, as we were to conduct some field study and then this emeregency duty!!!" Nina cajoled. She raised Saif, in her arms. "Nina you seem to be getting well with these naughty creatures, said Uzma, Bilqis followed her towards the entrance of the main hall. They exchanged traditional greetings, Uzma blessed Nina. "you certainly look a beautiful woman..." "This must be Bilqis..." Nina extended her hand to Bilqis as they hugged and kissed each other in traditional manner. "Phuppi, (paternal aunt) Ahmed is like Sheikhu (her brother). How come they have such similarities.... ! May Allah save us from their escapades..." , 29

The Riparian Neighbours

"…you see this is consanguinity…" , Ahmed "...this boy has a long beak" Bilqis, "...I am not Greek or Kashmiri ". "...Shut up! don't be irritating " Bilqis initimidated . Then there was silence for some time as everybody sat down close to each other. "I don't see the girls?” , Uncle Ahmar, "...They are in Nina's room …", Uzma , "Sir , your telephone..." said the Butler ".... Tell Qasim not to direct any call, except that from the CMLA..." "... Sir ! ...", Butler and Qasim entered with RAX hand-set, "... Sir, CMLA is on the line ", Qasim. Ahmar immediately seized the set. " Good evening Sir, .... , paused “....as you say Sir, I will ask my Indian counter-part to look into the matter , I think we need to hold a closed end meeting on this sensitive issue . ....Good night Sir ". Qasim took the handset out of the room. "What is it that he is deciding",

“…Well he wants some concessions from Indian side in lieu of allowing the Indian goods destined for Afghanistan. He wants the same status for Pakistani goods for Bangladesh on over-land route...". "He is too optimistic...", Uzma. 30

The Riparian Neighbours

"No he wants Indians to refuse his demands first so that he can retaliate. He is from undivided India and is very ambitious and calculating… He does his homework well, there are very few generals with political acumen like him ", Ahmar pondered. The boys too joined the girls in Nina's room. It was upstairs. Their noises could be heard down-stairs. "...Anyway it is nice you are here, I don't know if ever I shall be able to visit our home..." There was a long pause. Butler Niaz entered and said ".... Sir, Bhaijan's telephone "(eldest brother of Ahmar and Uzma) "Yes, Bhaijan its me...” Uzma in choked voice, “...I am hearing your voice after four years. Did you receive my letter. I tried to telephone you but Islamabad numbers are very difficult to get”. “…Ok…so you are coming after two days, and what about Bhabhi (sister-in-law). A...Haaan....yes…bhabhi Assalam o alai kum...., Amjad (the other nephew) called me from States(USA), I read their article in Lancet on "Health problems in South Asia" . “We all are very proud of them (Amjad and his wife, both being Doctors). It is a very important study. In 31

The Riparian Neighbours

India Health experts are all praise for their work and efforts. No, Shahla Bhabhi (Ahmars' wife) is yet to arrive, there flight got cancelled indefinitely two days ago. Now they shall reach here tonight from Karachi”. “…Yes, children they are busy with Nina and enjoying. ...Saghir (her husband) is busy with his work as usual. After, last year floods he has been assigned the situation beforehand in Kashmir Valley. This year has been very hectic for him....OK...sure. Khuda hafiz! "Ammu, I saw your guns they are excellent and light-weight too ", Ahmed broke in, with Saif following him and jumping straight into uncle Ahmar's lap. "Who was it, your elder Ammu , Uzma to Bilqis , "... Nina Appi is having her bath. Ammu when are we going to airport?” Bilqis to Ahmar. It was growing dark outside past dusk. "Oh, it is very near, Uzma reminisced "... we all i.e. Bhabhi, Ammu and little Nina would just walk upto the airport then, Sheikhu wasn't born then". "Oh is it so near,..." Bilqis, "Well, of course, one sleeps well after such long walk of 5-6 Kms both ways included." “Abbuji and Ammiji (their parents) would also join us at times”, Ahmar too spoke reminiscingly. 32

The Riparian Neighbours

"...There is much to remember, not all are good memories,...this Diaspora needs to be rectified politically; although we are individually too lost to be the same individuals."

He paused as Nina entered doing her hairlocks, joining the silence in the room, quietly sat next to Bilqis, looking at her father's pensive face. Surprised, at her father’s rare display of emotions, but she kept mum. Ahmar glanced at Nina and then looked towards his sister and said " I have been to India twice after the ’71 war…”, Uzma taken aback and in muted response Ahmar said "...but I could not visit you all as it was not a declared visit and the issues covered were very sensitive ones. My eyes would make me believe that I saw you somewhere in the city." "...And all these years I believed that you were calling from Lahore itself ", Uzma in utter disbelief. "...Even they did not know that I went to New Delhi not once but twice", pointing towards his daughter Nina. "... It must be one of those Karachi visits ", said Nina. Nina loved her father but never trusted him for reasons of his offical errands when he often lied to his family. 33

The Riparian Neighbours

The sudden appearance of a truth, made many resent those who were responsible for the circumstances where even the blood-relations were not to be trusted. At the airport there were hardly any barriers and the approach to the tarmac was easy like any other place at the airport. They all sat at the grass just next to tarmac. There were other visitors enjoying the view. It was a

small building and the distinction between a visitor and passenger was the boarding card alone. "In India the access to the tarmac is not possible ", Ahmed said to Uncle Ahmar. "Well it is a matter of time when this easy access will no longer be as it exists", Ahmar. "Look at those small aeroplanes, Ammu is it meant for children? I can fly one ",innocently said Saif . Everybody looked towards Saif and then to the small Fokker and executive jets, which looked much like children of giant Boeings and old British planes which surrounded them. Finally, the flight from Karachi was announced, it was a huge Boeing 747 series and was an international flight from Frankfurt via Karachi-Lahore to Islamabad. On their way home they decided to go at Race Course for the Dinner. The race course was 34

The Riparian Neighbours

just the name sake club and no longer the races were permitted.It was here that the duo namely Ahmed and SHeikhu his cousin would reveal their mischief and pranks. Ahmed and Sheikhu soon became complimentary to each other. There coordination grew stronger and their adventures became notorious in the neighbourhood. The vicinity later realized that the two devils thought, what even the Generals who resided in the posh Cantonment facility would not dare. Saif most of the time watched the television in true Colours!, back home but for VCR rest was black and white. Very few heard of the same, until the public television began to relay colour transmission in India, with multi-channels. His favourite series like Six-Milion Dollar man, Bionic Woman, and "Kojak" became his digital diet. The boys learnt to swim at the Army swimming pool nearby, and would go cycling for long distances along with some other local boys. The clothes they bought were their instant favourites with Japanese and American cotton shirts, polo shirts and jeans. Ahmed acquired "Kojak" style, and would always have the "Kojak" lolly-pop in his 35

The Riparian Neighbours

mouth, pretending as if smoking Cigar, like "Kojak" would. The latest Indian Bollywood films were readily available on video-casette, these were new advancements in entertainment which made them feel excited. The boys Sheikhu and Ahmed by now had a fixed routine, one street brawl, one shot at the neighbours mango tree and jamun tree; and lots of cycling and swimming. Their sisters liked their pranks only to the extent when they too were beneficiaries of the same. One flat tyre of any car parked in the vicinity. This they did by taking out air-valve. It was part of their morning adventure on their return from mosque after pre-dawn prayers. Evenings were to test each other’s sporting talents. Ahmed would loose Tennis game to Sheikhu but would beat him at the cycling. They never fought over winning and loosing, despite their sisters, best efforts to make them fight in order to have peace in the home. Later on they even decided to wear same kind and colour of clothes. Almost every evening there would be a party or dinner as the relatives would come to meet them. Sheikhu, Ahmed and Saif became friendly with their neighbour's grand children, who were though slightly younger to the trio. Saif was the youngest of the lot. 36

The Riparian Neighbours

On one such occasion of a party at General's residence when Ahmed and his family, were also invited; they went in a act of real defiance. While some of the Generals came in their evening uniforms there were many in civilian attire and wore the Pathani suit, the new official evening dress code for Olive Politicians. At the roundabout MPs (Military Policemen) were posted, who directed the parking of vehicles and security arrangements. In the last and finally the CMLA arrived who did not wear his uniform, and was now often seen preferring civilian dress, with long moustaches. The miscreant boys thought of something, which was not only unique but revolutionary. They decided to mislead the Army. No sooner had the CMLA left the party everybody was relaxed and the MPs too left. The roundabout during the day-time always had an MP to guide the flow of traffic as the Punjab Regiment Head Quarters were also situated nearby. So the drivers of these Generals and officers drove cautiously. That night the roundabout was dimlylit, so Ahmed planned-out the whole scheme, along with others. 37

The Riparian Neighbours

Their neighbours i.e. the Grand-children of General were to get an old Cap like those worn by the MPs. The whistle cord belonged to Sheikhu's NCC dress. Ahmed stood in the centre of the round-about and as soon as they saw a car approaching, he would stand making the car stop and then direct it in opposite direction. It happened with two cars, whose drivers were probably not acquainted with the area. Behind those dark glasses the drivers and their officers could not make out the prank. A third car stopped to ask about a Brigadier's house. Ahmed directed him in wrong direction. None of them suspected any foul play. That day pranksters were excited having beaten adults at their own game. Everybody took the turn at the circle. It was only when General's grand-daughter took her turn that the drivers realised that somebody was trying to fool them. The General must have been shocked to find something of that sort on his agenda next morning as he was also incharge of Cantonments security apart from being the Administrator. The next day in late evening when the boys were relaxing and watching TV , when much annoyed General's grand daughter straight away went to Shaikhu's

38

The Riparian Neighbours

room and without any warning, started abusing and beating him with his own hockey-stick lying near by. Poor Shaikhu ! , alas failed to understand her problem, as they were pretty good friends. The girl left in a huff, with all elders and rest of the lot watching this funny dramatic event. Poor Shaikhu hurt his left foot in the melee while trying to save himself from getting pulverised. It was only when the girl's brother came later the same evening that the boys realised what the girl had to go through on account of her escapade last night. Apparently the driver of one of the car’s realised the kids were trying to have fun, so he reported the same to the General’s orderly. The Generals’ orderly found out the culprit which was her. That particular orderly and Marina were never at peace. The orderly saw his chance to equal. In despair and anger her grand-father spoke apprehensive about her future life and remarked that she would get somebody like Shaikhu as bride-groom, if she continued to behave irresponsibly. On being told so, Shaikhu and Ahmed decided to take mileage out of the situation. The two were insensitive when they came to settle score with their friends. However they were very diplomatic and decided something really weird. 39

The Riparian Neighbours

A letter was written faking reply to Marina’s allged letter whereby he (shaikhu) refused her offer to marry once they are adults. The duo ensured that the same letter was placed at the General's table. They bribed the same personal attendant, by giving him 10 rupees note and also threatened to tell General about his “misdeeds”, in case !!!. The attendant was a young recruit from a remote village in the frontier region. Although he was very tall and strong, the man was without any brains at all. Two days passed the girl stopped coming, not even to meet their sisters. Marina was very interested how women in India lived. She became friends with the girls and their mother as well. The letter was too much for her, the boys thought. However, they were anxious to know what treatment she received at the hands of the General. They could not have dared to ask her younger brother who was their play-mate as well. The sisters were ruled out for the favour as they were also not on suitable terms with them. Probably they sympathised with the girl. Then something unique happened, the girl had the courage to defy all ban. She called-up, and asked for Shaikhu. At first the Butler picked-up the receiver. “Hello !” said Shaikhu . "...........after brief 40

The Riparian Neighbours

pause....Shaikhu its me Marina , " "...yes Marina " , Shaikhu surprised , Ahmed stood next to him and listened with his ear glued to the receiver's back . "....Shaikhu are you serious about the refusal to my offer " , boys realised the girl was upto something, and exchanged looks

".....Aaa, what do you mean ? " Shaikhu hesitated. "I mean about us, your letter of refusal to marry me, which you had it placed before my grand-father”. “…Shaikhu I shall not eat any food till you say yes to my demand or you say that the letter was a fake. I am going to tell everybody in my house, why I am on a hunger strike. Shaikhu I am serious you can ask the attendant ...." . She smashed down the receiver. The boys knew this was a check-mate to their plans. Soon it was all over, as the word spread from servants, to subordinates, to the whole family even the relatives who stayed far from the place. This was serious. The reaction of all adults in the house made the boys bit nervous. "We will not let her win " said Ahmed. They stood in the balcony of the first floor, from where they could over-look a portion of girl's house as well. 41

The Riparian Neighbours

The boys were scary about Uncle Ahmar having knowledge of their activities. Then in that case they may have to apologise. The boys were so immersed in their planning that they failed to notice that their conversation was not a secret one. Nina and Bilqis overheard all. Nina gently patted the two heads " Alright what is this, you must know the girl doesn't have a father and General is quite a strict man, Shaikhu you were never so irresponsible or stoic. Do realise you are no longer just small kids”.

“…You know what our society is like. People might interpret the whole affair as something real and bad or even vulgar. They don't think like you do!” Bilqis stood there nodding and said "... Appi , Ahmed is quite notorious at such things, he must have instigated him " . "Shaikhu has grey cells, he doesn't need my advice to do some thing so silly and obvious" ,Ahmed retorted. Shaikhu stood in silence listening to what all had to say, he then spoke "Alright I am willing to apologise provided she too apologises for her behaviour the other day when she hurt me for no reason or fault of mine." 42

The Riparian Neighbours

“Let it be tomorrow, she is only going to reduce her weight that way ", unrepentent Ahmed jokingly remarked. "… No it is going to be today and right now", said Nina. Their mothers called them downstairs. " Now what is all this about the letter and the harassment of the poor girl " asked Uzma, while Shahla, (Shaikhu's mother) sat next to her staring at the boys. "Shaikhu I know the girl, she is nice and I know its one of your tricks, so stop it all now. God forbid; what if that orphan girl does something in depression! “...Boys of our family never behave like stray-man. Don't forget ..." and she started sobbing. Uzma consoled her.

Shahla was quick to tears unlike Uzma who was pretty strict with the kids. "I will only apologise tomorrow and only if she also apologises to me”. Shaikhu spoke in a loud voice and tried to move."Shaikhu stay put..." Uzma sternly. Shaikhu knew his aunt who slapped him once when he ill-behaved. "...you made your mother cry and then dare to speak loud. This defiance cannot be tolerated ...." “...but Phuppi(paternal-aunt ) she was wrong..." Shaikhu interjected. 43

The Riparian Neighbours

"Don't interrupt when your elders are talking, you understand ...!" Uzma reprimanded. "Tell me all". Uzma in a conciliatory tone. Ahmed and Shaikhu revealed it all. "Alright I will talk to the girl and then you can say sorry tomorrow to her, you boys are crazy, May Allah give you patience and peace! The whole episode was soon forgotten until many many years after, when Shaikhu and the girl came on a visit to India as husband and wife. Their marriage was a sort of coincidence as the General moved to his ancestral town soon after his retirement. The regime of Generals has commenced once again, the political movement almost stopped and appeared to be dying, like the unattended patient. The Generals who closed the Race Course to prohibit betting,

they themselves started political betting, wherein they bought and sold politicians like a trade commodity. The CMLA stopped wearing his uniform, ever since that night. He continued to head army in a civilian uniform and held civilian office, unelected, unopposed. His political graduation from CMLA to President came long after, but it was conceived the same night. 44

The Riparian Neighbours

Chapter Three The visitors did not have the visa for Islamabad initially, but then it was arranged then and there by Uncle Ahmar. During, the visit to the twin city of Rawalpindi and Islamabad. They were to 45

The Riparian Neighbours

visit their eldest Mamu5 where they were to attend two marriages. So everybody packed in the notorious Ford family Van. The Van belonged to Uncle Ahmar’s fleet of Vans. These Gas-guzzlers were very popular on the street as the Toyota Coaster, was yet to make mark on the Highways. The American automobiles still dominated the scanty and poorly maintained roads. The Japanese vehicles have made heavy inroads for their cheap and economic value. The Japanese were trying to make inroads into Pakistan Army. The Generals still thought that the Japanese cars, were more of punishment, for their elite service and status in the society. Once a working (interim) Prime Minister anointed by Generals remarked “I shall put all the generals in Suzuki”. The man himself a land-lord met the fate not uncommon for zealous democrat. In less than a month’s time his fiscal trimming of the system, met the tragic end of his political career. He was unceremoniously removed from office of Prime Minister, to travel in a Pajero for rest of his life, than a Lincoln or Mercedes. 5 Maternal Uncle 46

The Riparian Neighbours

The Olive-white tradition was reaffirmed when another General removed both the civilian Prime Minister and President one arrested, on very short-notice to vacate the Presidential palace. All in the name to save democracy . The “night of Generals” never ended in the Indus politics. As they all traveleld on the road which was the lifeline of Pakistan, as it connected the two capitals namely the political and the financial one (Islamabad with Karachi). The Highway was more of free for all. The Pathans dominated the transport in this northern part also. They decorated, Lorries hardly resembling their original make and design. It was a prized possession for the owners and drivers alike. Some of them were ridiculously ornate. The driver of their Van was specially instructed to keep the pace at the safe levels, yet the driver did not spare any chance to drive at high speeds, as and when he saw an opportunity to do so. It took just 3 hours to complete the journey. It could have been shortened but for the two stops they made on their way. The road ran parallel to the rail track, which entertained a small electric train service between the two points namely Lahore and Islamabad. “Look there is a small train” Saif, as they climbed the 47

The Riparian Neighbours

foothills of Sulaiman ranges. It was a beautiful ride but the Army check-posts most of them empty and Artillery Vehicles could be seen at some distance dotting the Highway. Till the Army came in power, this was the tourist destination. The lone hill station of Murree and beyond were quite a fashion for many, urbane lot. “Oh we must have visited Murree some 15-16 years ago, Uzma” “ ya…!!!!!!!” both Uzma and Shahla excalimed in unison. “soon you got married ! , only bhaijan could attend, I think it was just before the ’65 war. May Allah lend peace to this khitta6” Shahla then stared blank out of the side window. The pelaseant breeze blew across the green vegetation, which covered the foothills. At times large grasslands would appear where the shepherd would be busy manning his herd.

The Van stopped next to a bungalow, with landscape view, atop hill with a row of bungalows down the road. This was at the end of the same. It was a Bungalow, which would remind one of colonial architecture blended with modern Villas. This was

6 sub-continent(piece of land) 48

The Riparian Neighbours

Uncle Hisham’s house. Uncle Hisham and his wife, aunt Maria, an English woman and they lived with an army of servants. As the Van honked the security guard stepped out of the small wooden sentry-box, standing next to the main Iron gates. He saluted on recognition of the faces and then opened the gate. A tall man appeared of strong built and grey hairs dressed in impeccable light-grey trousers and white shirt with a caravat and brown-white shoes much like Golf ones. The man wore moustache with thick eye-brows. The first to alight was Uzma who was sitting just next to the side door. The two paced towards each other with open arms and embraced each other, then she stood there clinging him and with teary eyes pointed to her children. “There they are, three of them now.” “Usi my dear, you still look equally ebullient and beautiful” this was aunt Maria. They pecked at each other’s cheeks.” “This is Maria mami” “he is Ahmed, that is Saif and she is Bilqis”. “Oh….love you all,…I recognize each one of them from the photos you sent recently”, “Bilqis is very pretty, her complexion, is like yours”. “Ahmar, Shahla, finally you can be here on vacations…!!!. Uncle Hisham lead holding Ahmed, Sheikhu hands on one side and Saif on the other. Then he stopped and 49

The Riparian Neighbours

turned his head and asked Nina and Bilqis to join them. They entered the door leading visitors into a massive Passage with two huge Halls on either side of the passage. This lobby was decorated with fern and palm plants placed in copper urns, lit with decorated lamps, the giant doors opened to many rooms sideway. Although the ceiling was very high, it appeared to be centrally airconditioned. They sat on the Hall at the right side of the huge passage way. This was nothing compared to Shekhus’ house. The house’s entrance was deceptive, as it did not match this Mansion-like House. A little smaller than a Castle. Uncle Hisham was a very wealthy and popular business-man, respected widely across political circles for his sincerity and uprightness. As they walked inside the private Hall, they were followed by three servants who were ready with silver trays, laid with silk cloth and full of servings. This Private Hall had huge ceilings and paintings were mounted on the walls, some of the pictures were that of their fore-fathers who were Zamindars7 and nawabs8, it had two parallel rows of couches with embroidered and silk tapestry mostly four seaters with corner tables and rows of center tables. All these center tables had Glass tops with carved wooden base. The Persian carpets and the glorious Czech 7 landed aristocracy 8 local royalty in small principlalities 50

The Riparian Neighbours

chandeliers spelled the splendour and opulence, which was so tasteful. In between the two rows lay a two-seater couch, at the head of the room. On either side of which, stood the stuffed Tigers and this couch had a chital9 skin on covering it on the sides lay corner tables and Jaeinamaz10 of Sambhar’s11 skin. On top were two guns from yester-years rather antique with silver coated barrels with Uncle Hisham’s name incribed on to it. There was a massive window, which hid behind the heavy curtains. One could spend time without ever realising whether it was day or night outside. Such were the surroundings. Ahmed and his family lived a modest life with bare essentials. Their only acquaintance to opulence was the old ancestral Haveli12, which lay half dilapidated at their ancestral place where once their fore-fathers lived as Zamindars and Nawabs. Uncle Hisham walked and sat at the couch, which lay at the center, while he made the rest of them sit in the rows near to him. Only Saif sat next

9 small deer, spotted deer 10 Prayer-mat 11 Large variety of Deer family like Reindeer. 12 Mansion 51

The Riparian Neighbours

to him. “Uzma we, two old people live all by ourselves in this massive house.we are elated to have you and children visit us. We all are finally together after such a long time ….ammi and Abba would have been very happy to see us all together”, Aunt Maria. She was very caring person who was gregarious and talkative by nature, quite unlike Uncle Hisham. The two met in London where Uncle Hisham was studying and ran small family shipping business. That was a family business. He developed it into a great success and now he was stated to be shipping tycoon. His only son was in USA who was working there as Doctor. Now he wanted his nephew Sheikhu to take-over business when he grew up. Uncle Hisham was very found of his Pipe, which he usually held in his hand. He smoked his pipe only when he was alone or in a business meeting. “So Ahmed I hear you wish to be a Nuclear scientist, why is that so ?”, as he sipped juice while holding Pipe in his left hand. “aaa…!!!, I think that is a challenging and fast developing science”. “Ok ok …!!!!!”. 52

The Riparian Neighbours

“ There are many modern sciences but he is fascinated by Research, so that he can be all by himself, a sort of loner he is.”Bilqis chipped in. “ they are typical example of confronting siblings, Hashimta” Nina smilingly said. Uncle Hashim laughed heartily. He was a man who would give a hearty laugh every now and then. “ you know kids, me and Uncle Ahmar were like that…” he again laughed, and everybody joined in. “But don’t tell it to uncle Ahmar…., he would be here any moment now…” he again bursted into laughter…, “ Oh hoy …, so what is the joke, lets share it bhai..” Aunt Shahla said while seating herself next to Nina “ No its not meant for all”. The house was splendid, opulent, detailed and worked as if to reflect the taste and persona of the inhabitants. Ahmed was influenced by Uncle Hashim , he thought him to be the reporsitory of their lineal past when they lived in such grandeur. Ahmed was solitary in some senses, where he did not share many of his passions. In some ways he was stoic. Ahmed was blessed with extremely great memory 53

The Riparian Neighbours

and sharp mind, he could recall things with maverick quality and exactly in details. During their stay with Uncle Hisham, he learnt more about the past, partition. Once when Uncle Hisham took them to the building called Presidential palace whose construction has just commenced. The foundation stone ceremony was led by the CMLA few months back. The palace, was being constructed by a friend of Uncle Hisham. He was a Sindhi13 businessman who loved to wear suits, even in the scorching Sun. He showed them the small replica of the massive show of opulence. Its miniature also looked opulent, well fortified and extravagant. The CMLA realised that this was a poor society and to justify the magnificent project in fiscal mess was a big task. In the ceremony CMLA said “this will be a repository of the people of Pakistan, it will be a people’s house” The miniature kept there had these lines embossed on its bottom. In the same office there hanged , a saying from Caliph Ali: 13 from the name of southern province Sindh. 54

The Riparian Neighbours

“the biggest tyrant is the dictator”. On an adjacent wall hung the biblical words: “I think therefore I am”. It was an interesting combination of settings and sayings. Somehow that highly westernised friend of Uncle Hisham was fond of words of wisdom. He was also a classical example that the wisdom is a combination of wise selection of words and not situations. The wedding was next day. It was at a distance from Islamabad. The place was called lahalu and was in the tribal belt. It was on the highway leading to Peshawar. Many small rivulets and small gorges fell on this very perilous inter-state highway. They drove in a convoy of three Land-Rovers. Uncle Hisham was very fond of them and kept them in immaculate condition. All waxed metallic paint and with all accessories for snow and muddy conditions. He was an avid Hunter, and was a sort of environmentalist. These were very powerful and air-conditioned off roaders whose suspension was very comfortable to drive even long distances.

55

The Riparian Neighbours

After travelling for about half an hour or so, the convoy crossed a small bridge over a seasonal rivulet. From here onwards the road was kuchha (muddy) and dusty track They had to drive with windows closed and the AC keeping the inside cozy. It was the most effective Car airconditioning with blowers located at two different points, one in front and one in rear. These vehicles were designed to withstand the scorching and unrelenting tropical sun. It was this scorching summers that the Arab grammaticians decided to term Sun as ‘female gender’. The moon, was classified as ‘male gender’. The view outside was absolutely breath-taking, from the heights, where the dirt track ran next to the rivulet flowing with its full zest and zeal. This lone track was situated in the plains with the hills running just parallel to the vast plains. It was in the foot of the mountains. There were very few vehicles. This was not an affluent area by any standard. People looked as desolate and poor as would any remote place appear for reason of apathy. However it seemed that theirs was the only Land Rovers there. 56

The Riparian Neighbours

It was all Japanese vehicles mostly Pajeros. The Japanese were capturing the Asian markets with great maverick capabilities. Many Europeans (firms/brand names) were simply disappearing from their commonwealth or former colonies as the case may be. It was as if the Asian Tigers were there with vengeance. Their identity was established and accepted under the very American patronage. The Americans were trying to gain their strongest ally in these far footholds, in an era of mutual mistrust and hate. Russians were marching in deprived and ravaged Black Sea and Camrahn Bay. The ideologies were already blurred and the poor were taught empty stomachs, with kalashnikovs and Grenade launchers on their lean shoulders. It was their only proud possession, which many foot soldiers in tattered clothes and uniform could display In the words of the progressive poetvii Muflisi hisse latafat mita deti hai, Bhuk tehzib ke saachon mein nahin dhal sakti Translation roughly reads: Poverty lament sophistry, Who seek manners on empty belly stock. 57

The Riparian Neighbours

There being many people in this region walking with false pride in torn shoes and sandals yet their guns on the shoulders shining bright. Uncle Hisham also carried a gun, small Uzi sub-machine gun with precision striking capabilities. The third vehicle was carrying three armed escorts’ alongwith two servants who also carried small weapons. It was no longer safe for the rich and affluent to travel without armed escorts. These interior and remote areas were infested with dacoits and robbers. The writ of police did not run there or atleast they posed little or no challenge to these small local armed gangs or thugs as they were known locally. After an hour and a half drive in beautiful but difficult terrain, they stopped at the gates of an Old fort with its unique mud architecture. The huge and massive gate with metal spikes made it look like a fortified fort. Surprisingly though; there was no moat surrounding it, in sight. It stood as lone vanguard to the cluster of houses, which stood at the mountains behind. Out came a tall man with very bushy moustach covering his half face with a spear in his hand dressed in his traditional costume from the small man-sized gate. He saluted, as 58

The Riparian Neighbours

soon as he recognized the convoy. The gates were opened. Inside was a different world of splendour, richness and sagacity. This was the palace of the local princely person called Nawab Markaz Hayat. His fore-fathers were local commanders during the Mughal era. Their family distinction being that the British never took away their honours or property despite their fierce loyalty to the Mughal Emperor. It was only for a very brief period that they were devoid of their status around 1860. This family, managed to retain the favour of ruling elite in succession. That tradition in a way continued, he was the local strength to the popularity of the CMLA, not very long ago he was a minister in the erstwhile democratic government. Uncle Hisham and he were not friends in real sense of the word. They were more of close business associate. Uncle Hisham was a typical businessman in one sense. He never dabbled into politics. Of course he had people to look after his interests. It was here that Nawab Markaz Hayat would be of great help often. Although, the reciprocity worked wherein this Master-fixer always charged some money or asked for an obligation, in return of the favour. Unattended

59

The Riparian Neighbours

obsolete system was the breeding ground for such obnoxious proposition. It was a very ostentatious experience for the visitors, where the women only discussed clothes and jewellery and men their favourite past times. The bridegroom would stay for next five days enjoying the hospitality of the bride’s family with his elaborate number of guests (entourage). The bride was a beautiful girl of tender age, around sixteen-seventeen, on day of nikah she sat in the middle of huge Hall on a slightly raised circular bed with two pillows matching her bridal suit.A small matching pink velvet footrest lying in the direction where she faced. The room was full of women. The fountains placed in four-corners, with Rose water pouring, almost intoxicating aroma. Their beautiful faces coupled with alabaster skin complimented a fiction, a fantasy. Their grace and elegance would sunken the fiction of passion and desire in one go. Many of them wore almost same perfume; this was just to identify them as from one family. The Hall did not have the doors. Their were ornate pillars and arches which wore floral designs in vegetable colours. The Hall had a dome as its roof, with small glasses and 60

The Riparian Neighbours

massive chandelierin centre and few small ones hanging around it. One could actually run into them if you did not notice the heat that they generated around them. The Silk and Net curtains with their transluscent view enhanced the charm of the harem. Women were seated on the white sheets strewn over rich Persian carpets, with small walkways marked with plain floral patterned carpets. The Hall was filled with aroma of roses. . “…Daira, they are from Hashim sahebs’ family, she is Nina and you are….” Lady of the house asked, “Bilqis” “why don’t you sit with her for sometime.” “Are you people studying” Daira spoke in fluent English. “Ah yes! I am doing my Internship (medicine) and she studies in school” “Aah, Karachi” “No India…rather Delhi” “you look beautiful and this dress is made to order in everyway” “yes we got it from Lahore” “don’t you think you are too young to marry” “Bilqis, you cant ask this…here at least !” “No she is right, but our circumstances are different, we still follow the age-old routines” 61

The Riparian Neighbours

“Is there nobody whom you could ask for help, I mean your mother, granny” “SHSSHHHHHHHHH, Bilqis some people are looking at us” “Daira do we have to be afraid!!!!!” Saif stood there behind Nina gazing at the little bride. In this Harem only very young boys were

allowed, not even those of Ahmed’s age. The purdah was strictly observed. “Wakil saheb qabooliyat ke liye aa rahe hain” (lawyer is approaching for her consent). It was announced by one of the Eunuchs. The women inside covered their heads with their veils. An old man entered with two witnesses at his side. The Eunuch in a subtle mannerism by wabering his arm stretched towards the bridal place. Then he asked them to follow. They stopped next to the round large couch where Daira sat with her veil half pulled down her face. Only her deep red lips and milky white chin was visible to those standing. The Wakil! asked for Daira’s consent for Nikah, Daira kept silent for a moment and then nodded here head in yes, he asked her thrice, she repeatedly nodded in acceptance. In a Hall filled with hundreds of women, the din, now 62

The Riparian Neighbours

bore pin-drop silence. The words of wakil resounded as it reached the top of the dome. He asked Daira to sign on Nikahnama, Bilqis and Nina were standig just next to her. Bilqis took out a pen from her side pocket and gave it to her. Nina and Bilqis congratulated her and then left to sit next to where their mothers were sitting. “ I am sure the girl must have resisted…must you be blunt, she is already going through an emotional experience”

“look mami Nikah obliges to have the consent to marry. Won’t that means you cant force a choice or even an option” “…Bilqis bi Will Papa make you marry soon and then leave us…” Saif. “No No, I am not going to leave you that soon” She bent forward and kissed Saif’s head, who then wrapped his hands around her legs in adulation. A day after they returned to their uncles’ place in Islamabad. Soon they headed for Lahore from where they were destined to travel Karachi. They stayed there for about ten days. The train journey took through the Thar desert and the Indus plains. Tezgam 63

The Riparian Neighbours

express was carrying only three bogies of air conditioned coaches. It was quite a task to get the reservations, but the prviledged did not have to scramble either by influence (position) or by paying bakshish viii now called illegal gratification/bribe. There being other names but it was so rampant but was the convenient way of getting around the sickening legal provisions which ante-date many of those living in the sub-continent. In the State professing its existential flow on religious and moral highs, the stark realism of the common subject’s life was quite an anti-thesis. There are many compromises which the modern State may make. It is the gap in ideals and their practice. Then there are segments who feel bound by the thrust and compulsion of the ideals as part of their identity and existence. At the same time, there are other segments of society whose thinking and circumstances are a mismatch and their concern is less and less of the national values. In the growing era of universalism, the future of the same is nonetheless apparently safe. Although peace eludes modern States, yet growing nihilism of those who follow the ideals of the Welfare 64

The Riparian Neighbours

State and its existence are dividing themselves into moderates and extremists. The growing division may be attributed to the gap in the democratic ideals and differing standards for disparaged sea of humanity polarized on affiliations to set of competing ideals. There isn’t much to console for those who were termed the freedom fighters and those who were made to fight for their nation or their national interest. The visitors travelled through the moonlit night. The dark and double glasses of their coach did not offer much vision of the scorching heat and the blowing sand. Ahmed possibly was the only one awake while other passengers were asleep. The Air conditioning was more chlling than conditioning. At one of the stations, the train stopped in the middle of Thar desert falling in the Indus flood plains. The paltform was almost deserted barring the Tea Stall and some other sleepy Railway staff. It was very hot and sticky outside. Ahmed took few steps to the coach behind. He saw the TTE was trying to shoo away a newly wed tribal couple travelling unauthorised in the reserved 65

The Riparian Neighbours

compartment by dodging him. They must have hid themselves in the toilet when he took his normal checking routine. The young man asked him for forgiveness and pleaded again and again his poor self. The man was having an ordinary ticket. There was just one coach and the people inside were packed like sardines right upto the gate. The young man a tribal couple from Sindh wanted his bride to travel in bit of comfort. The TTE did not relent. Finally the young man tookoff his white turban and try to put the same next to his feet. This was utmost symbolism of humility. All the while the young bride kept her long veil over her head and stood just behind bride-groom. The TTE was adamant. Although some passengers did woke up on commotion but none intervened. He was a poor man and so they were. Finally some sense prevailed as the engine honked , the TTE himself came out. “Give me that gold ear ring which you are wearing and I will let you travel !.” The bride held tight his arm as he lifted the same to remove his ear-ring. The young man very gently removed her hand asked her to board the bogey. As there were no vacant berths, they travelled next to the space near the toilets. 66

The Riparian Neighbours

The engined honked once again, although the signal was still red. The TTE smilingly left the couple poorer than they were few minutes before. Ahmed feeling disguisted ran towards the gates of coach, as the train with gentle push began to leave. The signal was still red, but the train gained speed. It was not very far off from this place that the recently deposed Prime Minister (by his trusted Brigadier) was incarcerated in a small jail in the middle of the desertix. It must have been 9 am in the morning when they met their waiting relatives at the Hyderabad (Sindh) station. It was tears of joy once again. There was no visa for the place so this was the only way to meet the relatives living in Hyderabad. They recognised each other from the photograph sex changed few days back once the posts were resumed post the War. There were few colour ones which were gradually replacing the black and white ones. Their arrival at Karachi was around noon. Since their’s was a short stay, every day was full of vists, meetings, lunch at one end and dinner at the other end of the city. This was the coastal city and the only Port, which was the capital to be after the subcontinent partitioned. 67

The Riparian Neighbours

It was the town where the refugees (Mohajirs) from the UP and later Biharis in India settled in bulk. They were the people who were

dominating the affairs politically and socially as educated class. However the growing sectarian influence and the conflict was brewing in parts and places. Certainly, it was a city which was full of life but in contrast the indisciplined motorists. One could not drive some distance without coming across a major or minor accident on the roads. People drove as if on a racetrack or a death track. The city was full of affluence, its size of squalor and slums, the garbage and sewarage were growing at same speed. The amusement park at Clifton was their instant favourite and they spent many evenings there. They were also told that the house of the deposed Prime Minister was nearby. It was not a house but a massive mansion, though only the female members of the family lived there. Men were incarcerated or were in self-imposed exile. The favourite Army officer of the deposed Prime Minister even kept them interned as often as possible. The MRDx was 68

The Riparian Neighbours

almost gaining momentum. Ironically those who opposed the 1973 constitution were now trying to lead movement for the restoration of the same.xi Ahmed’s mother on pretext of social parties met many political leaders who were in hiding. On such dinners only Ahmed and his mother would go. None of their relatives wanted to be seen at those houses for fear of surveillance. It was general impression that this was a tough and long fight for democracy. Many politicians and writers thought that geo-politics favoured dictatorial regime in their country. It was a derogatory proposition of democratic Nations validating dictatorial regimes in the garb of International politics and their convenience.

69

The Riparian Neighbours

PART-II

VISIT TO STATE OF JAMMU AND KASHMIR

70

The Riparian Neighbours

Chapter Four The exercising troops back home indicated that the territories have changed and the reminder about fierce nature of conflict. The passenger train carrying Ahmed and his family from Amritsar to Jammu passed over the small bridge above the excercising troops, which were never intimidated by the rumblings of the railtracks. The passengers pulled down the windows to prevent the rising dust-clouds from choking them. Jammu was only two-three hour journey from Pathankot. The Rail-tracks were recently extended under the Railway plan from Pathankot to Jammu. The tracks upto Poonch and Srinagar were awaited as promised by Union Ministry. The northern state of Jammu and Kashmir, has a special constitutional relationship and autonomy in the Indian Federation. The train suddenly stopped with a few jerks. The emergency brakes were being applied by the driver . It finally came to halt. The train was slightly leaning on the tracks. The topography made the tracks slant. Some got down other tried to peep out of recently installed grills on the square-sized windows. "It is a cow, under the train ", someone shouted from outside. The women sighed." It seems to be alive ", 71

The Riparian Neighbours

Other one shouted. The women with folded hands thanked god. Cow being a scared animal and many passengers were on a pilgrimage. There was a commotion when finally the Rail guards reached the place alongwith the driver and the conductor of the train. Indeed the cow had given birth to calf and was sitting right in the middle of the tracks when the train was forced to stop for a while. "It is not a new feature here the cows very often sit on tracks, yet the administration seems to be careless", someone shouted at the railwaymen. Meanwhile the owner of the cow reached, the vast expanse was once their homeland where they roamed like nomads .The railway police helped to remove the calf first and then asked the driver to reverse a little so that the cow could be made to stand on its feet. It delayed the train full three hours, which meant the passengers for Srinagar the state-capital will miss the trip as the buses due would have left and those remaining will now only be able to leave tomorrow. The authorities did not allow the buses and heavy vehicles to move during the night on the National Highway connecting Jammu-Srinigar and Leh .The passengers were asked to stay at a Dormitory nearby. It was a Hotel cum Wedding 72

The Riparian Neighbours

Hall, with many Dormitories as well .It was spread over four acres. There were other children as well who befriended each other .

One of them a girl stood next to Saif and Ahmed at the Table-Tennis table lying just below the stairway leading to the Main hotel. Saif who was younger to Ahmed defeated him as everybody praised Saif. Ahmed stood embarassed. This young girl was Manali. She challenged Saif to a game. Ahmed immediately handed over his raquet to Manali. She seemed to be an adept player using a pen-holder grip. They introduced each other. Manali " My father is a PVSM"14. Manali with great pride, continued "...he won it for his role in Ind-Pak war in 1971", she paused and looked around as everyone listened "...when we passed Pathankot, my father told me his regiment fought, just a few kilometers away from there at the ChhambJaurian sector. ...It was fierce and bloody battle ", bringing fear to her facial expressions. " Have you been to the region? " Saif while taking the shot across the table."...Oh No "! exclaimed, as she lost the game to Saif ,"...it is 14 Gallantry award 73

The Riparian Neighbours

not a family-station..,moreover there is not much to see except few villagers and occasional bombardment, light artillery fire". Ahmed picked the ball and handed over to Saif, who was winner-happy. "So where are you heading for now", Ahmed, "Well, we were stationed in Delhi for sometime but now we are heading for ladakh, our permanent home

is in Srinagar near Wular15 lake .It is very beautiful, do visit us." ." you don't look like a Kashmiri girl ", Saif smiled .Manali also smiled back. "So where are you people heading for? " Manali asked. "Well, we are heading Srinagar and thereon we will fly to Leh, where my father is currently posted supervising BRO (Border Roads Organization) project.He is a Civil engineer with expertise in Mountainous regions." Said Ahmed, while watching the game on the sides. He was standing at a small distance. "...So you are Delhi guys", Manali. "...Well right now we are coming from our visit to Pakistan, we 15 the lake which is source of fresh water supply to the town. 74

The Riparian Neighbours

have lot of uncles and aunts over there who migrated long back .." Saif . "Well, how is the place?" Manali. "You have lost another game, anybody else”. Saif, looked side-ways as if challenging others. Nobody wanted to loose. "It just happens to be your goose-luck", their elder sister Bilqis taunted Saif from behind. "Tell me dear (to Manali), did he try his fancy tricks ," pointing towards Ahmed. Everybody laughed at Ahmed's expense, . "Aapa(elder sister) ,I haven't annoyed you once, yet you taunt me" . "Oh dont take it seriously Ahmed ", Manali continued "Didi (elder sister), you are really prettyfaced and so kind ". Everybody then dispersed, Manali found a new friend in Bilqis. Next day both families decided to take the Luxury coach. Lt.Col Ram Mattoo led the mantle, as the male member, he was assisted by Ahmed in the chores involved. There were no Coolies at that hour and no mode of transport to carry the luggage from Hotel to Railway Station. So people had to wlk some300-400 metres on foot towing their luggage. Though many smart ones, kept their luggage at the Railway cloak-room. Next day they got-up as others around 4.00 am, by 5.30 am 75

The Riparian Neighbours

the buses depart .. Theirs was the first one to leave. The break-fast and Tea was to be served on board the lusury buses at around 7.00am. Tea was served twice. In less than twenty minutes the Coach was on the foot-hills of the Mighty ranges of Siwaliks and thereafter Pir Panjal. Ahmed got the odd seat and shared with a young British tourist. The splendour of decidous forests advanced with the mix smell of Pine and Fir, the moist soil. The Pine and Fir trees never bore edible fruit as the leaves defied the gravity when the wind blew. There was sudden drop in temperature, as the Coach advanced the 200 Kms journey on the youngest and most challenging mountains in Northern India .They acted as the borders where number of times the fiercesome battles were won and lost by many. The Coach initially drove at a high speed but soon the speed slowed, as the slopes grew steep and treacherous. The Hair-Pin bands and the blind turns made the journey more adventurous. The shifting moods of Sun, drew veil of clouds, as they drifted alongwith the wind. It was only after some ascent that the weather grew so cloudy, as if it would rain any moment.

76

The Riparian Neighbours

Just when everybody was busy appreciating the splendor and ‘call of mountains’, their coach came to an abrupt halt at a blind turn. Anxious, everybody looked in front it was an Oil-Tanker which had over-turned and the diesel from the fuel tank was leaking. Luckily none was injured in the mishap. The driver alongwith his helper were trying to stop the spillage which was otherwise dangerous as the Tanker was still half-filled and would make the flow of traffic impossible. With the help of few people the spillage was stopped and the traffic started to move. The Highway was barely wide enough to let two vehicle’s pass through. The lone British Tourist sitting next to Ahmed, however kept on reading his novel, and would only occassionally look-up. On a halt at a small hamlet for refreshments, where there were just two-three restaurants. Ahmed and his family decided to eat at one of the restaurants which was somewhat clean and well-furnished by local standards.

It was slightly expensive as well. Only foreign tourists and some Indians were present. The water supplied was bottled. The potable water was not considered to be safe enough. Although the local council of the area has 77

The Riparian Neighbours

diverted some of the small rivulets for the Hamlets, yet they were not considered fit for the foreign tourists. On the opposite table were two middle-aged German ladies who were enjoying mango fruit. They were relishing the taste , the novelty , while slicing it in small pieces. Ahmed's family was amused as eating mango this way was quite alien, the king of fruits was to be sucked and eaten in bulk. They would eat buckets full of mangoes of numerous variety of it. "Ammi, It is for the first time that we didn't have our share of mangoes..." Bilqis,while sipping tea. "...Don't worry the vendors will keep some for you in Delhi..."Ahmed snapped. "…Don't talk to your sister like this..." Uzma. Manali and her parents also entered, they have purchased small baskets made of Walnut tree bark. "…she wanted it to gift her friends in Srinagar, " Manali's mother. "Oh they are really nice ", Ahmed, while feeling the surface of the basket. "...Oh in Srinagar, there are so many shops but she insisted she would purchase it from Patni Top, ...you see this is the highest point that you have to cross to reach the valley", Manali's mother, who wore typical 78

The Riparian Neighbours

Kashmiri Ear rings. They were held by a thin golden chain tuck into the hairs at the nape. Meanwhile Manali's father has befriended the young British Tourist, Donald Turns. Donald was a young communications engineer and was software developer as well. Donald soon dispelled his aloofness and thereafter chatted with the two families with ease and comfort. Donald was visiting India for the first time and was here to see if Alps had any substitute .The fleece of sheep and beard of the shepherd grew thin as the Coach descended to reach Banihall or the much recently christened Jawahar Tunnel. It was for the first time that the few Police men belonging to the CRPF (Central Police Force) with their out-dated .303 Enfield Rifles were found standing lazily. It was only in the winters the Army would take over the Srinagar-Leh Highway. It was a national Highway and the life-line of the State and its only road connection to rest of India. The Air transport was not the reliable one. The tunnel ran for a kilometer and half, it halved the journey-period, otherwise the journey earlier would last for two days as is the case with the road travel further on between Srinagar and Leh. It first grew dark and then darker only the noise 79

The Riparian Neighbours

of engine, air cutting sound and the leaking roof could be heard. For few minutes the head-lights of the bus would be the only source of light. Then at a far-end the beam of hope

would lit and the innate mountain darkness would finally come to an end. "Oh, there is snow all over the mountain and look at the valley , we must take some photographs here .."Ahmed, the luxury Coach was parked at a corner to enable the tourists, view it all. There were other buses, which would stop for a while and then move on. It was 2 o'clock in the afternoon, lunch packets were served here, with tea as well. "...Its time they should wear some cardigan or or woolen clothes, else they will catch cold " Uzma to Manali's mother. " Donald you know, this "bloody-piece "of engineering bears Russian, French and Indian stamp on Himalayas " ...Lt.Col.Ram Mattoo. "...I can sense that!…" in his accented English ."I find it a nice track to trek along"...Donald. "...Bloody good idea" Manali's father. “Please return to the bus we are getting late”, Bus conductor shouted. The passengers hurried back to the Coach, with reluctance to loose the tryst with mountains. 80

The Riparian Neighbours

“...From here we descent till we reach the valley...” Lt.Col Mattoo to Donald. Donald nodded. As they descended it became to grow cloudy and started to drizzle. The weather in the mountains matched the mood of a damsel!. The small paddy fields with green saplings stood half submersed in the logged fileds. “Rice is the staple diet of the Kashmiris, only the poor eat wheat” ...Mattoo to Donald. “I doubt that part, wheat must be expensive on account of transport costs involved” ...Donald. “...Hmm.!, you have a point .”Ahmed who was listening to these new friends .Donald turned towards him . “You have been prying young man”, smilingy, Ahmed shrugged and pushed himself back in the seat. After about an hour and a half, the bus stopped, it was the first taste of Kashmiri crafts mandship when at Batot, the tourists alighted for as short break .The place has become famous for the walnut and Oak wood baskets , small decoration items . These items have become the souvenoirs for the tourists. Perhaps some of the succesful face of the cottage industry. The colonial fiscal policies did not reach the heights as it smothered the cottage industries in the Ganga plains. Ahmed and his family also 81

The Riparian Neighbours

bought some baskets and other items. It was bit of a surprise to the first-time visitors who found walnuts, cherries, apples, and other dry fruits to be so cheapby kilogrammes . The consumers to the same national market drank with luxury the fresh apple juice marketed and produced by the State-run Cooperative . The cool and growing Pir panjal ranges were a chilly contrast to some of the chartered tourist from deep South India , Bengal and Gujrat. They have come prepared . They wore thin linen clothings but wrapped woolen shawls . The dark skin colour stood in sharp contrast of the locals with their cherry red faces . Some have come to visit the Amarnath and shankrachariya temple .Thus not all tourists were here on vacations .It was part of their pilgrimage to four pious points of Brahmin order / fold . The grazing flock of sheep, cattle and bearded shepherd with their long coats feran as they were locally called. Their sticks would remind one of the ages when the shepherds were the centre character of the society. They broke the desolate silence for the forlorn travellers. The times changed but the tradition remained as it is. Many of the village houses perched at the foor of the mountains were of mud and wooden structure. For years though they still lived, the 82

The Riparian Neighbours

same. A distinct knock could be heard in the shape and sound of incoming tourists who brought with them the historical forces of change so inevitable and distinct .Yet the shepherd and his flock moved from one top to another top of the mountains which were Pir panjal range. The bells round the sheep necks wore the tradition of ‘recognition and the breaking of silence’. These grasslands depleted fast to the contours of the new horizon. The loud calls of the shepherds were the call to the distant shepherd or to his neighbours across the mountains. The local transport was as yet primitive and slow as ever .The administration was absent except for the brief tourist stop-overs. It was the matter of discontent as the local populace wanted their share of the booty. A state whose economy rested on tourism did not bother much about the native people. The discontent was easy to be seen as one would just stroll away from the Tourists routes. The locals this year were complainning against the Central government at Delhi as the State government has failed to provide them the sapling of better variety it promised last elections. The Panchayat elections were long over-due. The unique scheme of local-bodies still had no constitutional sanction on holding the periodical elections when due. The resentment was boiling as the less-sensitive kioskowner would remind you by calling a tourist “from the 83

The Riparian Neighbours

downhill below”. At tmes one would be uneasy to hear “Hindustani (India) government must do something for Kashmir.” The coach reached the outskirts of the city of Srinagar the capital of the state of Jammu and Kashmir .The palce was much publicised by the Bombay Films. It made the chronic romantics feed on the real time Alpine beauty. Though not many foreign tourists would compete it with any of Western tourist spot. It was an Himlayan experience which were born out of the joining of Gondwana, with the burial of Tethys sea. The tectonic movements were much beyond the quite valley, which was full of lakes and beautiful Mughal-era gardens. The splendour of medieval Nishat Bagh, was more evident, as the spring-water merges with the sight of Dal Lake from the heights of Chashme Shahi. The spring-water of ChashmeShahi was known and believed to have lot of medicinal and curative values. Many a times when the Chashma would dry out, people would take it as a bad-omen. It was much the same as the Bamboo-blooms in the North-Eastern Parts of India. There also locals found it ominous when the food would be scarce and drought and hunger would stalk the hill people. 84

The Riparian Neighbours

Well indeed every fifty years when the Bamboo would bloom and the flowers would rise in all the forest, the wild rats population would double, consequently the Steppes of the cultivation would be burrowed out. Much in 1949 the infamous drought would cause such hardships to the remote-centered populace that it took the shape of a legend. So the generations by word of mouth took it as ominous sign. Chashme Shahi, (Royal Springs) carried the symptomatic value for the people of the Kashmir Valley. The drying of natural spring a geological wonder was both considered an important indicator of potable water situation in expert terms and so would the believers interpret it. At a distance where stood the Pari mahal( Fairy Palace). It once housed the royalties of the times but now stood desolate. This was one of the haunted sight attraction in Srinagar. Ahmed and his family visited the desolate looking structure. It bore semblance to a young widow, and was belived to be a cursed place. Local legend would support many more fables with each passing generation. Though now the fable-tellers were repleted by the stories of terror, torture. In the Umbra of such events, there was no place for passive fables. “here we are!” , Donald, 85

The Riparian Neighbours

“Finally..” ,Ahmed . “Was it so tiring”, Manali to Ahmed, “He can feel so anytime,” Bilqis, Ahmed stared back at her with usual contempt .As everyone alighted, Mattoos prepared to leave as the orderly came with the Army Jonga. It was the most reliable of the small multi-utility vehicles for the officers and mounted guns as well. These vehicles though American in origin was quite a popular off-Roader with the rural masses. The choice of Ownership of vehicles, was limited for want of the Makes and Brands. These ‘disposedoff’ defense vehicles were indeed very popular here. These vehicles were quite unlike those reinforced vehicles, which the US Army would never even think of disposing (should it fall in wrong hands). However the Indian Army vehicles were not the same choicest ones. It was as susceptible in the war zone as any vehicle would be on the road. The poor budget Army would make do with a 16jawan‘s life. Moreover, it was where the democracy never discussed the life of the soldier. It was a taboo subject as far as the Parliament as a forum stood. The spirit of nationalism was too narrow in meaning and expression for the quest of reasoning and accountability.

16 Soldier is referred as jawan (young) 86

The Riparian Neighbours

The off-Roaders, worked absolutely fine in the rough environment of less than 40% metalled road statistics. It evoked meagre sense of proud and

achievement for those who considered Infrastructure as the 17New Temples. Though the ‘New Temples…’ were not so popular with the increasing batch of Civil Engineers who were being churned out of the Indian Universities without a sense of practical application of their scientific abilities. The boost of nationalism was to inspire these young men. These young men would often fall prey to the culture of the mixed economy, where the policy was fired by the leads of socialist ideals but the end was in the hands of the profit-seekers. The nexus was already gaining the rough terrain of Corruption in all these major Public construction establishments and projects as well.

17 Pt.Jawahar lal Nehru, first Prime Minister would refer it so “….” 87

The Riparian Neighbours

Chapter Five The families bid each other good-bye. Ahmeds’father also arrived, the reunion of family after a long time left each overjoyed and overwhelmed by the moment. “Assalam-o-alaikum (peace on you)...” greeted all each other, as in unison. “Saghir, He is Donald, we met on our journey, …a Systems engineer (looking towards him)…and is currently surveying for his consultancy firm, the scenario here”, Uzma to her husband Saghir. Donald and Saghir shook hands. Saghir introduced himself “Well it is nice to see somebdy with such expertise. It is much required here. But on the other hand, we have learned to manage things. National Highway, by which you journeyed on to valley and beyond is being managed and maintained by us (PWDxii) and BRO(Border Roads Organization) as well . 88

The Riparian Neighbours

“…Donald where are you putting up”, Saghir (father), “...I think I will prefer to be in the camps”. He took out a Tourist Hand-out from his satchel. “...You have your reservation”, Saghir asked. “...Oh yes, I made it, at Delhi itself ”, Donald. I must say it has been long time Begum18 since I went for camping and trekking, so what do you say”. “Oh! all through your life you have been living in camps and on remote sites” ,Uzma, “..See wives will be wives…” Saghir chipped in. The sequence was soon over. The design and architecture of the Inter-state terminus bore striking resemblance to all those around. PWD continued lot of colonial designs, but with the distinction that the same was copied for the cheap and sultry origins. The ornate design of the Railway stations was lacking here. As the railways have come to be the main stay of the Colonial transport. The PWD continued lot of colonial designs, but were the tasteless and cheap copy of the originals. So much so, for the sultry origins of the Road transport ever since the colonial period. The latest inspiration in the Architecture, being the Russian modern-frugal designs. Most in the crudest form ,shape and appeal. The whole design and concept being “simply without any aesthetic appeal”. Much of the PWD work was bare utility and shamelessly stripped frugality. The ornate designs of the Railway station were missing here, all over the sub-continent.

18 Urdu for lady or wife. 89

The Riparian Neighbours

The strength of colonial legacy was so strong that the Civil servants never imagined the need of State (of Jammu and Kashmir) which ran its life-line; Tourism, solely on Road transport. The backbone of the valley of Kashmir was not railways but the Roadways. The thought obviously never crossed supine babus (civil servant) mind. The administrative fatigue was obvious to anyone. The domestic lot took it as their fate, with the foreigners it passed as poorcountry or in more sophisticated terms ‘lack of resources’. None are perhaps correct to suggest. The bane was reprehensible attitude for change or more subtle expression ‘innovation’. Railways had indeed become the mainstay of the Indian life, and supply of Tourist to the valley as well till Jammu. The colonial impressions were less evident in Jammu, which was much recent addition to the cap of Indian Railways (a government enterprise). The enterprise tracks were burdened by the whole Ministry and an elite Army of Civil Servants, coupled with the Board Members, who acted as stooge of the government, rather being loyal to the role, which they undertook. Indeed the average kilometrage never increased in terms of Colonial Vs Republic times and the variation in demands and objectives. The wooden carriages were long gone but the steam 90

The Riparian Neighbours

loco was still in great demand some of them as old as forty-fifty years. The diesel loco was evident for long haulage and electric loco were just being introduced. Much to surprise, the ubiquitous beggars did not bother the tourists here in Srinagar. Either the Bus terminus was not the right place or there were just too few of them to be noticed. So the Road transport was left literally in the ‘dirttracks’. These ‘dirt-tracks’ were to be there for the Bullock carts which then connected the remote villages some half a million independent clusters from deep forests and middle of rivers to the beautiful plains with green; the superb green and fertile farm lands of old densely inhabitated Ganges.

It wasn’t the Colonial British but the Americans whose colonies saw the real ‘Benzene power’ under aegis of ‘Detroit City’. The quest for ‘North Sea’ Brent came much after the colonies turned to the American giants who wrote new luxurious and somewhat expensive History of Road masters. Free ways and speeding were not the policy consideration or priority for the

91

The Riparian Neighbours 19

20 ‘pedestrian economy’ with ‘bicycle merchants’. The impressive Raj Hills surrounding the city of Srinagar, fill the background to the Bus Terminus. The sprawling foot of the mountain had the evening sun spread all over making their Marigold top. Interestingly the Inter-State Bus terminus was choked as was designed to accommodate about 20-30 medium size buses i.e. each having a capacity of 30 passengers. The traffic multiplied without corresponding increase of space and management. It was unique in the sense that it had massive gates and an entrance befitting a Fort. Like many Bus Terminus in Hilly regions some of the Parking space was covered by a Tin shade. However the inadequacy of the Parking space for the State-run and controlled Road transport was nowhere a concern for the administrative set-up. Tourism was never blooming, like this at any given time in the memorable past. The place was simply full of domestic and foreign tourists. Surprisingly, the serenity and resplendent city of Srinagar was so natural in its

location, where the Urban setup and its charm was gradually catching-up. The wooden houses were though 19 Description of Indian economy 20 ibid 92

The Riparian Neighbours

there as if to deny the concrete its due entry so synonymous with Urbane attitudes. The administrative apathy and lack of imagination was obvious from the point of alighting. Although, the beautiful-looking shy faces were hardly ominous. It was difficult to understand how that calm and warm faces could be relentless and inflexible in their political orientation. It was as if this society inherited the obsession, which was only facilitated time and again by the Delhi vicissitudes. The parallel lies in the stock markets when the ‘Big crash’ would make everybody go broke and bleed each face white, within a decade. The situation in Afghanistan and the CIA infiltration in the valley were, only discussed in knowledgeable and establishment circles. This uneasiness behind the softness of the inhabitants of the valley would become very obvious to any keen eye. Walk a few metres away from the Bus Terminus and the main Tourist Taxi stand, Para military forces were to be found alongwith the CRPF21 patrolling in small numbers. The presence of the Central security forces for the management of the law and order was an indication enough to draw inferences and sour conclusions. Most of the government buildings including the Radio and TV stations wore a run-

21 Central Reserve Police Force( after Crown Reserve Police) 93

The Riparian Neighbours

down look, as if the administration was cashstrapped. “…This is jhelum22 in the night.” Saghir, the family stood next to the banks of the jhelum on the Lal chowk23 side. The splashing of water from the rising under-current was more obvious with the blowing of breeze. The house-boats wore the ‘To-let’ board with just one or two bulbs lit inside these house-boats. They all were beautifully painted and most were well maintained. The family after initial hesitation stepped inside the dark of ‘24shikaras’, their first of many rides and regular mode of transport. These small boats were very shaky. The steps leading to the banks were very slippery and dangerous, in the dark. The Public lighting worked only till beginning of the steps. The two giant White-Mercury Lamps standing on top of the steps, simply did not work. The boat-men (shikarawalas) would show the torch-light soliciting the customers. This went on till 11.00 pm thereafter the Banks were closed to these shikaras. These boatmen who live on the banks nearby in somewhat modest version of a 22 Name of the (one of five)rivers flowing through Srinagar, Kashmir valley into Pakistan. 23 A Central commercial zone in city of Srinagar. 24 A small boat tapering on both ends, with a small canopy of straw and ply-wood.(water-bird). 94

The Riparian Neighbours

house-boat called Dongas25. These smaller House-boats wore a run-down look. The beautiful faces of the women and children inside carried typical shy attitude, coupled with strange welcoming look. The whole dingy ambience inside was hardly repulsive. The spell of Quest for 26Kashmiri and Kashmiriyat was too immortalised by politics, films and international focus.

25 Smaller and cheaper version of floating houses on the banks of Jhelum. 26 Kashmiri(kashmir local,) kashmiriyat( life and culture of Kashmir, irrespective of religion) 95

The Riparian Neighbours

Chapter Six (The muddy and sluggish Jhelum) The muddy water of river Jhelum or Avesta , was to soon welcome the Indian Prime Minister Mr.Morarji Desai, who was heading the first National opposition government at the Centre. The government of Jammu and Kashmir was very much interested in the ‘New Janata 28 government’ which was possibly more supportive of the Kashmiriyat 29. The Central-State relationship has not been cordial. Indeed the word cordial is euphemistic in its connotation and expression. The movement for constitutional autonomy traces its genesis on the limitation of the ‘National Government’30 at the Centre. This 27

27 It is referred to as Avesta by Kashmiri Pandits. 28 Means public in Hindi and also the name of the ruling coalition. 29 Kashmiriyat is also used for the movement for Political autonomy within Indian Union of States as envisaged under provision Article 370 of the Indian Constitution. 30 The national political coalition from 1947-50 ( Council-inConstituent Assembly) 96

The Riparian Neighbours

was the transition phase. The constituents of this government comprised of the extreme right forces (dominated by the RSS and Jan Sangh) and extreme left and Centre-left forces. Of course the Indian National Congress dominated this National Council. The transformation was later aptly called ‘Raj

to Raj’31. The death of a rightist leader Shyama Prasad Mukherjee at the jail in Kashmir, was the turning point in the nascent Indian democracy. The populous lone predominantly Muslim State in modern India saw the aggressive politics in post-partition trauma. The number of decades of Single party (Indian National Congress) rule, Bangladesh War(1971)and the Emergency era in 1975-77, added only to woos of the movement for Constitutional autonomy for Kashmir.32 The people of Jammu and Kashmir formed societies and organizations to support the autonomy movement. The attempt to gather international support for the movement and their cause was thought integral to their cause. Interestingly, it was the Kashmiri Pandits who were also top advisors with the National Cabinet 31 “Raj to Ra”j is a title of book by Australian D.A.Low 32 Kashmir has already seen amendments of terminology under Indian Constitution in mid 1960s. 97

The Riparian Neighbours

on Policy matters. However the issues and causes underwent colossal change with passage of time and changing South Asian equations. The designation of the Executive Head and Governor (President’s Agent) were changed from Prime Minister to Chief Minister and Sadar I Riyasat to Governor. The Central government was sceptical about the Constitutional autonomy for the States, so this was the test of centrifugal federal strength. The provision of Article 370 was however retained, which meant all always passed by the Parliament were to

be approved (ratified) by the State Assembly for its applicability to the State subjects. This provision in its practical application saw the dismissal and arrest of the tall kashmiri face, Sheikh Abdullah; popularly known as Shere-Kashmir (Lion of Kashmir). The man was arrested and jailed for all sorts of political reasons. His government was dislodged number of times under the same Constitutional provision for dismissal of State governments. The provisions of colonial document termed Government of India Act, 1935, were directly imported as the Republic came into Act. This strengthened the Single party rule. The killing of opposition (Communist) led government in the State of Kerala in 1950s was the test of 98

The Riparian Neighbours

Constitutional intentions. State of Jammu and Kashmir was nevertheless invincible for the Indian National Congress, the then ruling majority. The political affluence was overwhelming and blinding for those, who carried Constitutional dyslexia. It was very recently that the government by Sheikh Abdullah was installed following an accord with the Central government in power. Although the Sheikh unwillingly acted on the comands of the Central government to implement the directions during the Constitutional emergency era. The elections were suspended for more than two years. However Sheikh Abdullah’s party rule was somewhat softer image of Emergency-rule of Indira Gandhi. He detained the leaders of outlawed organizations, but released them no sooner on parole. He was not very harsh with the newspapers, which were banned and banished during that era. One interesting example being of regional newspapers, experiencing less and less censorship during the emergency powers exercised by the Union government. The union government would very often point out the “lapses”33 This movement inside underwent glorious change, with its widening of political and constitutional struggle. The Simla Agreement between Indian and Pakistan and the 33 line is an extract from book ‘The Judgement’ by Kuldip Nayar 99

The Riparian Neighbours

Article 270 in the 1973-Constitution of Pakistan further broke the Political foetus of seperation and militant movement in the State of Jammu and Kashmir. The raising of the Army regiment from the people of the State of Jammu and Kashmir was the point of integration with the Indian federation. Then how did the Jhelum become muddy, and Dal lake infested by wild growth whereby choking the fresh water supply to the capital Srinagar? , asked many. Even if the natural serenity left spellbound those who came from the plains to the oldest valley in the New and active Himalayas. The river has crafted its way through the treacherous mountainous tracts of Upper Himalayas and was young and vibrant. Although the silt in the valley made this tributary of Sindh (Indus) sluggish. The river ran parallel into the present line of actual control in the Southern Kashmir. Kashmir valley itself has been divided into two parts for the administrative convenience. Equally interesting story is about the names of the district as well. Since a large tribal part of Kashmir valley and Skardu are under control of Pakistan since 1947 any name of the district and place having nomenclature similarity would be rechristened. The example of Anantnag is interesting. The divide betweeen administration and local was obvious here. The District administration for all purposes 100

The Riparian Neighbours

would refer the same as Anantnag, the locals and the Police would refer to it as Islamabad. Thus the show of local defiance and anti-establishment views were always strong. The blow was dealt when the local body elections were regularly rigged and then after 1979, this never happened. The simmering displeasure for the lack of participatory approach was evident in the rural Kashmir. It was less in the urban settings was less obvious. The struggle in Kashmir was more for Participatory role for the majority of the Kashmiris. The yoke of being a subject of the Maharaja and then of Central government in Delhi was too much for the poor shepherds. Thus the visit of the Prime Minister who headed the opposition-led coalition was a welcome change. Although his coalition’s important constituent was Jan Sangh34, which was against the Constitutional Autonomy to Kashmir or to any union constituent of Indian Republic. Also not withstanding that the Prime Minister has himself been the former Indian National Congress member. The state needed funds badly especially for the flood-management and extension of the Salal Hydro-Project, and some other small Hydro projects in South Kashmir. While the North of Kashmir valley was better, it was the Southern Kashmir which required attention. 34 an extreme right-wing political face of Hindu fundamentalist organizations. 101

The Riparian Neighbours

Ever since the crunching defeat in the ’71 war, the autonomy move was looking to inward solution than an international or regional one. Peace even an intervening one often encourage colossus. The pilgrim tourist was on rise to this paradise version of heaven. Most of the domestic tourists also visited the Amarnath Cave35. It required special management and funds. Army here too undertook the primary duty, which was better equipped to handle the avalanche and unpredictable weather in the area. On the day of Prime Minister’s visit the schools were open but the children were to collect at the Banks of river Jhelum, where the Chief Minster and he were to sail in a Giant mechanised Army Boat. The Boat was well decorated and the children from all over Srinagar and even distant places came to wish the duo and their friendship for Kashmirs’ future. There aren’t many states where even children are so politically sensitised. Of course the security was tight and Intelligence people were all over the city. The national tri-colour was hoisted on both sides of the River. The Boat also carried the national tricolour. The people had high hopes from

35 It is a holy shrine of Hindus which houses a Shiva symbol. 102

The Riparian Neighbours

the new Prime Minister. The new Prime Minister promised Central-assistance. It was after many decades that the Political heads at two nodal points of power shared the common platform. It was a scene of high expectations that day. Even the vernacular Newspapers for the first time carried the front-page photographs next day. It was rare, the Autonomy movement has been sustained on the basis of the Urdu press, mostly local. The national English and vernacular dailies were not considered important and suffered lack of credibility amongst its own readers. The only state where the Administration communicated in Urdu language/script as the local language was still evolving into an administrative language. That day local University youth were also present, they wanted the leaders to reminded of the rising unemployment, lack of opportunities for the qualified youth. For next three-four days the two leaders visited the various parts of Kashmir valley, Border posts, and distant Ladakh region as well. Saghir, went alongwith the duo everywhere, as he was the key advisor to the State government on Hydro-projects and the Road construction. So the family watched the TV and made cuttings from the newspapers, for record. The Doordarshan(state TV channel) would broadcast the National Program from Delhi for some more than three hours in the evening alone. However, it was the PTV or the Pakistan Television which 103

The Riparian Neighbours

was more popular for the program content, the entertainment value, than for anything else. It was difficult to jam these waves as the Indian TV news was watched in the bordering area falling under Pakistan by equal enthusiasm. In the age of information black-out the citizens on each side of the border would rely for authenticity of claims, on daily service by BBC Radio for South Asia in its regional languages. It was as if an arbitrator of truth or veracity of truth. During the stay, it was also announced the remote rural areas run by the village Panchayats(local body) would be provided TV sets under a scheme and implementation of community oriented programs on literacy and health. However, very soon the first-oppositionled government at Centre would fall and their leaders would suddenly die. The promises would also die the premature death with the wind of Political change, the situation would also deteriorate till it becomes the cauldron of South Asia.

104

The Riparian Neighbours

Chapter Seven Soon after the Prime Minister left the family started their visit, to the valley and beyond. “Abbu …we would like to go to Pahalgam first…” Bilqis to her father, “…No no, we go to Sonmarg first.” Ahmed. “…Does he has to necessarily oppose me...”, Bilqis, “...Well, we will go all places, you will travel according to my itenary…, that is if you want me to accompany you people”… Saghir, their father tried to calm the situation. “Oh you can certainly be on vacations with us…” Uzma, as Saif amused looked at his mother. “…Oh ho, you know it is not possible, here we only get the three months beginning from March to work as fast as possible on the new projects. The rains here are really bad, the whole system chokes…”Saghir helplessly blurted. “..You have simply become a workaholic person,...” Uzma smiled with resignation. The phone rang in middle, Saif rushed to receive it . “Abbu,…it is Gautam 105

The Riparian Neighbours

uncle!,…” , “Well, did you say Salaam! to him , Saghir to Saif. “Assalam o alaikum..” , Saif promptly spoke at the receiver “Well Guatam , so what is the program like…” Saghir talking to the caller on the other end. “...the car is here, Vakil is waiting…”Bilqis called from the main door. The main entrance door was beautifully carved, a genuine Oak with Walnut engravings. The rest of the walls were panelled and well varnished giving a natural gloss and live texture. The main entrance door at the ground floor had massive rooms including one Master Bed room and a guest room. The whole house was a tasteful mix of concrete and wood. It was made of a building technique, which was very common in the valley. However the modern urbane element of caution, was sadly missing . Many many years later would such a design be the common cause of tension between locals and the security forces. In late 1980s when the militancy was on the rise the security forces while searching for the extremists, would fire at the houses, which would immediately catch fire and the houses in entire row would get extinguished. The militants would also burn down the residential buildings of the senior state government and central government officials, as the same were made out of wood. It would pain all those who have spent their times in the relaxed surroundings of those magnificent structures. The premonition was not to come to the people, in the years of mild struggle. The ‘enemy’ across was only 106

The Riparian Neighbours

recuperating from the displaced indentures. The State government would fall as often, with the political saga turning into the endless plight of norms. The brokers from major political houses in the state, hastened the turmoil and dissent. The death of State figure who was projected the modern founder of Valley, left many aspiring faces, to bicker.

Now it was almost a fortnight since the family arrived in Kashmir valley. The first week was spent in visiting the local sites in Srinagar itself. The most memorable of memories for the Khans was the Sunday when the family took Gul Muhammad’s new shikara to Dal lake , all the way from river Jhelum. They spent the day in the PWD House boat. This visit also enabled them to peep into the backwaters of famous Dal lake where the locals would grow the vegetables in the water itself, to sustain. The hydro-plants or the aqua-plants was the novelty for the children who saw it for the fist time. The lovely Lotus floating in hundreds in the silent back-waters of the lake made one feel in harmony with nature. Small children in their small boats, as if tailor made. Though some even handled the bigger ones. All attired in their traditional cap and

107

The Riparian Neighbours

Shalwar kamiz 36. These small boats were the floating grocery shops. The locals would put all the utility items, though mostly food items in their small boats and sell them around to the locals and the tourists who lived in the Lake and around. These sort of ‘mobile-shops’ catering to tourists even carried some imported merchandise to suit the need of the foreign tourists staying in the House-Boast. Interestingly, House-Boats carried typical English names like (Cozy Home, Max House Boat and so on). The interiors of some of them were tastefully decorated. Many of the Europeans saw similarity between these House-boats and the community living in boats and ferries on Rhine, Danube and small Channels in parts of England. The same did give some insight into the life of these Water-borne locals. The room service was also provided by the owner of the House-Boat. People would come to sell the carpets and embroidered scarves, firan(long-coat) and other clothings. “…Abba, I would like to buy some of those”..Bilqis, “…We will go to the village nearby in Bren on our way to Dachigam reserve.37”, said the father. On their return from Dal lake tour in shikara, there was storm, where 36 Loose trousers and long shirt worn all through central Asia , northern parts of Indian Sub-continent, more recently was declared national dress of Pakistan by CMLA. 108

The Riparian Neighbours

the shikara become unstable and Gul Muhammad took it near a houseboat for safety. The wind was so strong that the thatched top blew over. However this was recovered as these ‘Tops’ were designed to float, rather then sink from their weight. The children and wife were scary, as it was a novel experience for them. Saghir and the boatman, Gul Muhammad try to calm each other. Ahmed sat in front of the shikara, he was learning the art of rowing a shikara while in front. The shikara with two seats facing each other, one was very small and not so comfortable one. The other one was more like a bed, the luxury Shikaras were different from the ordinary ones. These luxury versions were slightly more stable than the ordinary ones. In the Dal lake itself there were few shikaras which were only meant for the film makers, documentary makers. Such being there permanent demand. These shikaras were white in colour, they looked absolutely photogenic in picturesque scenario of the Dal Lake .The charges were also slightly higher. Although there were hardly any tariff charts displayed. The storm lasted some hour and a half, Dal lake which on average saw such storms two times a day during the summers. It was more likely to occur at noon hours or at around 4.00 o’clock in the afternoon. 37 A game reserve housing mainly Himalyan black bears and spotted deers and some Tiger. 109

The Riparian Neighbours

It was a Sunday so, there was incredible rush on all spots in and around the Dal Lake. The place in center, the char cMarinar, was full of visitors. The lovely old cMarinar (maple) were believed to be very old. The shikaras jostled to dock at the ends of this small island within the lake. It was late evening when the family reached the Jhelum banks towards Raj Nagar. The dikes at the Dal Lake and the River Jhelum would last close at 6.00pm in the summers. Then the waters would rise and the flow would grow much faster due to breeze. It was memorable experience for the family. They also realised that the Dal lake was dying due to pollution and weeds, silt was also increasing. State administration was too corrupt to be tamed. Saghir himself expressed helplessness to Gul Muhammad when asked about the cleansing drive for Dal Lake, saying “the State administration was very wary of any comments on state of affairs by the deputed Central government officials, particularly if these officials were not of local origin.” The next day the family left for their family friends in a diesel Jeep. The house was situated at the bottom of a small hill at the banks of Dal lake, The house was so angularly perched, where both Sunrise and Sunset presented equally breath-taking view. This Mansion had a Glasshouse for winters and also a fore ground and a 110

The Riparian Neighbours

kitchen garden, it was spread in an acre of land. The house had romantic antecedents. The family of Bhats, narrated how they came to puirchase the place and the house. Yunus Bhat, friend of Saghir reminiscingly said, “….well, Saghir saheb you see it was some ten years back that we came together to the place which you can see from here…” every body looked at the lonely steps leading to the Dal lake at the far end of the lake towards North of Srinagar, he continued “….in Kashmir the boy and girl meet before they get married , so I and Midhat were sitting here at those steps, you cant actually see them from here, but this wall has a small opening there at about 100 metres or so, she said…..” looking at his wife who smiled back, “…aaaa..so she said, Can you build a house here..,” he then paused for a moment and continued “..I replied why not Dear!, so thereafter when we got married we both saved money and took loan to build this house..” . “ Wow.. Saghir, this is romantic, you are never in such a mood”, Uzma was quick to retaliate. Saghir as usual smiled while lighting his Havana-Cigar. He kept back his gold-plated Bugatti Lighter in his Cigar case, which was also gold-plated with a Black-base. The Cigar case had his name Saghir inscribed on it. The case had Dunhill printed on it . “…Oh why do you have to smoke every now and then…” Uzma protested. Saghir gave 111

The Riparian Neighbours

usual stoic silence. Ahmed came into the main room with Bhat’s daughter of same age. “...We caught these tadpoles…” Rukaiyya to everyone in the room. “Oh….…(as if reminede of something)the visit to Trout farm is a must we will serve you the fried ones for lunch” exclaimed Saghir. “When we visit Dachigam Reserve, we will go to the Trout farm, the cooperative center is making profit, I suppose…” Saghir, “ well for now yes…,nobody knows the future, all these movements and initiatives startoff well, then nothing sustains, see the sericulture, the potential remains unexploited”, lamented Midhat, who was a Zoologist with the Cooperative department in Srinagar. “…Children , have kahwa..” this was Midhat’s mother, she wore tarditional scarf and embroidered brown long-coat, her face wrinkled, long nose, very fair, average height. As the kahwa 38was served , with the dry-fruits, Ahmed and Rukaiyya took their cups and went out from the front door, Bilqis looked at them smilingly. Midhat and Usmamah also watched the duo going out. “ I will come back in an hour or so then we will go to chashm e shahi in the evening and if there is some time then to Pari Mahal…” Saghir, said while getting 38 Local herbal drink, can be taken with lemon or without it, with resins, walnuts, pistachios and saffron, all mixed up. 112

The Riparian Neighbours

up from the sofa in the lounge. It was late noon, and time for prayers, very feeble notes of Aazan39 passed the lonely stretch of boulevard and the thick glasses of the glass-room. Every one rolled out the prayer mats facing westwards towards Kibla40. The faithful would kneel five times a day. Ahmed and Rukaiyya soon became good friends. Saif also went alongwith them. Bilqis made friend with Midhat’s younger sisters. Midhat’s mother and her college-going sisters and a younger brother who was so very fond of guitar lived in the same house on the top-most floor. The house was designed like any modern American or English houses with sloping rooftop. The house had a unique Environment friendly power arrangement. It had solar energy system. The Solar panels were housed in the backyard where the kitchen garden would end in to the massive hillock structure, at the base of which the House was constructed. There were some six houses with an exclusive boulevard which were perched at the bottom of the Rock. It was kind a fashionable up-market place for villas. 39 Call for prayers 40 Four-walled structure built by Prophet Abraham and rebuilt by Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) in a mosque called Haram(Prohibited) sharif situated in Mecca. Its walls are covered by the Black veil, which has the entire verses of Holy Quran Gold and Silver. 113

The Riparian Neighbours

These privileged few however, were always scared of security as the turbulent times in the valley would come unannounced and without any forewarning. Most of the lot still preferred to stay in the dingy inners of the Srinagar. Although the new areas have come-up gradually like one of the prime areas of Raj Nagar where Ahmed and his family were staying. That day Bhats and Khans visited the Pari mahal, believed to the haunted place. Perhaps the local guides invented the haunted destination tag to make it center of attraction, as it look bit desolate and remote from other famous and visited destinations in the city of Srinagar. Later the families came to visit the famous spring waters which had the medicinal and curative value called chashm e shahi. The locals revered it as the blessed and ominous sign of the wellbeing of the State of Kashmir. The slowdown in flow of spring-water was bad-omen. On each occasion people of the valley had to suffer the harsh times. The harsh political, weather or any other community-ills, like outbreak of cholera, etc. The Kashmiri locales were very sensitive about the places. The Islam practiced by them was a populist version than would appeal to a purist. The tradition of Bud Shah the sufi ruler of Kashmir and verses of Habba Khatoon moulded 114

The Riparian Neighbours

the edicts and observation of the Kashmiri piety and behaviour. “… Well see that lone tree up there…!” Saghir said to everyone as they sat at the Table in the Restaurant at the Chashme Shahi. “…Well you can certainly see other trees, which are linedup at the top edges of the Hills,” Uzma quipped.“…Saghir is a kind of loner and he enjoys it that way Mrs.Khan…, though he is very warm and generous with his friends and foes alike…” intervened Bhat , a smile on his face. It was dusk and the street-lights around the Dal lake lit one after the other, forming a huge Halo around the darkhole. The view from the Chashme Shahi towards the area of Bren was just magnificent. The rush of the locals and the tourist alike increased as the darkness fell around. More lights and mercury lamps lit up. The entry towards the spring-waters was however closed. The children played at the grounds and at small amusement park in the same vicinity. The newly wed couples thronged these secluded places. Although these sites were hardly secluded, as the domestic tourist knew no other Hill destination to escape scorching heat and blazing summer sun in the plains. At the distant Mountain was the lone mercury lamp alongwith a red warning lamp of 115

The Riparian Neighbours

Radio Trasmitter which was visible from a distance, this was the Shakracharya top. The family walked down the Chashm-eshahi top, as the Bhat’s lived only at a walking distance. Next day the Bhat’s and Khans went to Dachigam game reserve where they were to stay for two-days. The small Jeep was packed with the Ahmed, Rukaiyya, Saif and Bilqis constantly chatting with each other as the elders also talked about each others family. “ I think we will stopover for sometime at the Cooperative house for break-fast, …yesterday itself I asked for the arrangements , Lakshman Bhan would be present he is my Asst.Project officer”, Midhat told. “ya ya , we know you wanted to spare yourself the trouble of making break-fast for all of us…hihihaha….”Bhat and everybody laughed at Midhat’s expense. “…In any case you never have break-fast so early, so don’t you complain please…huhuhu…” Midhat said jocularly. “...aaa the trout-farm, would be in the way, hmmmm…, small detour I suppose..” Saghir who was sitting in front with Saif in his lap. He continued, “…you wanted to cover the cooperative movement here Uzma for your feature item, why don’t you write about these…,” “Yes, it can be a good story, last night I discussed the same with Midhat”, Uzma looking towards her left where Midhat was sitting. Uzma was just behind driving seat. 116

The Riparian Neighbours

“Well, sister, the English and National Press including vernacular press does not give adequate coverage to the development activities. There is some trend in the National Press that only Political news is published and no development news or issues are highlighted…” Bhat said to Uzma who was sitting towards the other end. “Sir, that is the Cooperative House”, driver said to Saghir. Saghir looked towards his far right. So did everybody. The Cooperative House was some an hour’s drive and was situated so with the mountains forming massive backdrop with lush green Pines, firs growth. The family had break-fast in the lawns, it was bit cold from Srinagar and everybody took out light pull-overs, shawls on their shoulders. Here the typical Kashmiri break-fast was served. Naan, with butter, apricot jam, dry-fruits mixed in kahwa. The food for lunch was also prepared and packed over here for them to be served at the Dachigam guest-house. It was 10.00 o’clock in the morning when they left for the reserve some hour and a half journey. The journey in the largely uninhabited plains where paddy fields dotted all over along with the orchards at distance, some saffron yards also past by, sideways. After while everybody dosed off. While Ahmed, Saif, Rukaiyya and Bilqis sat in the boot of Jeep. The jeep was not the usual design found, otherwise. It was a new design, though small but was better designed in its 117

The Riparian Neighbours

seating arrangement. The luggage was perched on top. Every time Saif would getup to see the view from the side panes of the boot while other would have to just stretch their necks to see outside. Ahmed and Rukaiyya became good friends although Bilqis found the situation odd. For once the brother and sister, Ahmed and Bilqis were resigned to peaceful existence of each other. It was more due to compulsion than any genuine change of heart. It was at the check-post that everybody woke up when the driver asked the Sahebs to show the permission to go up the circuit house. The tourist in this part still required to take the 41DFO permission to visit the place. It was dense forest a check post with just three armed police men from the Central Security forces, a wooden barrier which was lifted once the Saheb identified himself. The guards had the prior information about the guests. The same guards saluted and guided the driver about the route to be taken up the circuit house. The forest road passed through the dense forest with local vegetation and dried up leaves scattered all over the morning dew has made it so damp that the road itself was very slippery to walk on. The place wore natural fragrance with the occassional bark of the local Deer. Some wild goat was also there in the forest. The road meandered through the steep slope and finally at the Circuit house. The Jeep had to parked below as there 41 District Forest Officer. 118

The Riparian Neighbours

were steps leading up to it. It was beautifully perched at the top of the mountain. As and when clouds would clear up the view from the circuit house was absolutely breath-taking. The sprawling hills of the reserve wore thick Pine forests with lot of cMarinar trees and some new vegetation. The circuit was protected from wild intrusions during night by the barbed wires of six feet in height. The circuit house was spacious and had all modern facilities. It even had a Glass house for winters. As the 42chowkidar took them through the Circuit house, a man wearing khaki trousers, white shirt and black jumper entered and wished, “salaam sahebs, I am Gul Shanaz , your guide during your stay. I shall try to make your times as enjoyable as possible. I am here for past twenty years, much before this reserve was conceived.”, While the elders took the luggage and looked for the running water, kitchen and other facilities. The children gathered around the guide. The guide had a pleasant personality and knew his way with children. “So when do we see the Tigers..” Rukaiyya. “ Well the Tigers….are not many…ummm yes yes some panthers, too… but this place is for the Black bears very few brown here.” the guide, continued “…you can see the panthers sometimes the Deers as well, in the compound they can leap over those barbed wires, the water hole is just down below in the north of this Circuit house..” , Bilqis interrupted “… that’s scary, Ahmed you will see that all the doors are 42 watchman 119

The Riparian Neighbours

locked and closed , check the same in the morning before any one comes out in the compound”. “Oh you should sleep near the main door, scary lot...” Ahmed let out his rage.”No No, son yu mustn’t talk to your elder sister like that” guide politely told Ahmed. “… So the bears are ferocious or not…” Ahmed changed the topic, “..No, they are not but you have to be careful…not to irritate them…”, everybody listened in stunned manner, suppressing their fears. The guide has an inimitable style who exuded confidence and acted as if in command of the situation. The children were impressed by his stories about the jungle. Ahmed, Saif, Bilqis and Rukaiyya all inquisitive about the life and secrets of Black-bears endlessly talked and listened with deep interest. Thereafter the guide waving his small stick , lead everybody into the deeper forests. There was narrow but clearly marked forest pathway with barbed wires of waist-height, there was mulberry trees and small hedges all over . This was the perfect settings for the Bear reserve anywhere. Then at a distance one could see the black-bears who ignored the visitors completely. They didn’t seemed to be disturbed by this intrusion. “what is this giant cage for..” Rukaiyya, “ Well, this is to tame any aggressive Bear or to acclimatize any new entrant here. Other times it is used for treatment as well. We often quarantine the animals here. Sometimes to breed them, this reserve has comparatively high success rate like the Chinese, have for Pandas” Guide in hushed tones. “What about the Panthers, Tigers,..” Bilqis. “ … 120

The Riparian Neighbours

shsh ! don’t disturb the Bears, talk slowly, No, No,… this place is only for Bears, other animals are old inhabitants here , they are however protected animals and we help them as and when it may be required…” .guide, then at a distance a Bear growled slowly and raised its tone slightly putting everybody on guard. “… just keep walking this is a nursing mother, so it is slightly alarmed, not to worry” Guide tried everyone. For few steps everybody walked silently, the two men held the hands of their children, as if to protect their siblings. Suddenly the mother-Bear took leap and then stopped, and retreated fast towards the thick bushes, where it became invisible. “ The cubs are inside…we will relocate them soon, its not safe for them” Guide informed. “…Very often the Male grizzly would attack the cubs and consequently injure the nursing mother as well.” It didn’t quite assure the visistors who walked in dumb silence. They all stopped near the Mulberry tree wher the guide plucked few fruits purple and purple green, sweet in taste, the guide pulled out a small pouch from his upper pocket and asked the party to spread there hands and poured little bit of salt in everybody’s palm. “..there it tastes very good with the salt” . “ this is delicious , cant we have some more” Bilqis said to the guide with delightful expression. Her cheeks glowing red. “Oh why not…., aren’t you now afraid of the Grizzly…” Guide in sarcastic manner. “…she isn’t scared, when it comes to gobbling down…” Ahmed . Everybody busy eating mulberries, as they started to 121

The Riparian Neighbours

walk further down. “That must be the Trout Farm” Bhat while looking right towards his wife Midhat. “well the farm is here for two reasons, the plentiful natural canal and the food for the Bears and the Big migrant birds” Midhat . The rest listened to her attentively. “…this year was bad for the birds” Guide who was walking in front. “anyway the local birds are always there…” Midhat snipped. “saheb, you are right !”, Guide tried to soothe Midhat’s tone. Meanwhile Rukaiyya and Ahmed kept chatting in hissing tones while pointing in different directions. Bilqis walked holding Saif’s her youngest brother’s hand, who was walking fast than her pulling her arm in front while holding it tightly. “ Well Iam famished ,Gul,( the guide) what are you serving us with tea, …aaa fried trout…., I suppose” spoke Bhat. “Janab , today being a holiday we will have to see if there is someone in the Kitchen there, DFO saheb never sounded about your visit to the Trout Farm” replied Gul in his usual humble tone. Meanwhile Uzma took out her professional camera and scribbled some notes on her notepad. She then started to interview the people who were feeding fishes and were collecting some water samples as well. The visitors also gathered round the Duct; which was 15 ft across with fresh water supply from the nearby Natural canal. The duct was covered with a Net , and had a fast flowing water, the surface beneath was rugged to give the natural gush in the water, which made lot of noise as well. The noise was so strong , as would the moving boulders make in 122

The Riparian Neighbours

the Upper stream. It was a pleasant site when the Trout fish would leap out of the stream and then dive in to surface again few metres away. “…who can catch fish like a Bear would when they go downstream…” Saghir broke his long-silence. He was known for his longsilences. “ Oh, it is not difficult.” Ahmed, “ Go ahead… you get Rs.20.00 here and now.” Saghir . “I will also...” Saif. And Rukaiyya said together while lunging towards the duct. The trio waited and tried as the fish leaped out towards the corners out of the small net in the Steel net covering the Duct. After few minutes the trio became disinterested. Saghir again challenged them to try keeping their hands in the cold water for thirty seconds. This time Bilqis, Midhat and Uzma also joined in while Bhat and other employees at the farm watched amusingly. It took less than five seconds for each to take out their hands , only Ahmed and Bilqis had their hands for almost the same duration of ten seconds. Their hands turned deep red and were difficult to move for sometime. “ Abbu,now I know why these fishes constantly jump out of water, its just too cold to stay in…” Saif said innocently, as every burst into laughter. Saif held his father’s hand tightly and slid behind his legs. “Come sahebs , kahwa and fish are ready” said Gul . Everybody sat at the lawns of the small kitchen, which was meant for the Officers working at the farm. “ Saheb, will the Central government give more money to our Farm, this year, we need funds badly. As there is ban on tourists there is no source of income” Gul said to 123

The Riparian Neighbours

Saghir . “ ye akhbar se hain inse kaho, yahi likhein ( she works in News paper, ask her to write about it)” Saghir pointed towards his wife Uzma. Gul immediately stepped just next to Uzma. “ Janab, Please write about it otherwise local people and this reserve both will suffer. You see , Farm is major source of earning for the fishfarmers nearby, some of them were poachers earlier.” Gul spoke in concerned fashion wearing anxious looks. “Very well, if that is so I will write about it, take us to the nearby villages where the farming is conducted” Usamamah replied . “ Zaroor 43Janab( Surely Madam), Seven o’clock I will be there” , said Gul . After everybody finished their grub, they further walked down the farm climbing some thirty long steps to the Main Forest road. There jeep with their driver was waiting for them. “what is that forest path there..?” Ahmed to Gul. “ “Well that is the trekking route, which runs just next to the fences of the Dachigam, but there are not many who come here. Although it is nice trek.” Gul lamented . “ Can we go for trekking tomorrow, Yes provided it doesn’t rain tomorrow” Saghir interrupted. “… the weather is pretty unpredictable here as in Srinagar, in any case this beginning of June, so this is rainy season”. The young visitors looked glum. “alright if it doesn’t rain then you people go…” Bhat settled the issue. Then the visitors sat in their vehicle and drove up to the circuit 43 Urdu term for respected men and women, common expression used in offices around Indian sub-continent to address superiors , irrespective of Gender. 124

The Riparian Neighbours

house, it took them half an hour to cover those just less than Five kilometer long stretch. The visitors covered the same in three hours. Although the slopes here were not very high , yet the gradient would feel on account of the slippery forest tract. The tract was slippery as the height of the mountain constantly exposed to the lower clouds and also the foliage was so thick that it hardly allowed the sun rays to dry up the dead twigs and leaves strewn all over. That day the VIP visitors were treated to the sumptous dinner consisting of roasted lamb and rice with curd. After saying there prayers everybody started to take their favourite place to sleep. Ahmed , Rukaiyya, Bilqis and Saif, in their night robes took to the couches in the Main Central Hall which was very big in size . The parent took to the two bedrooms which were there at the ground-floor section. The first floor rooms were locked barring one Central Hall from where the view of the whole Dachigam reserve was possible on given day and time. That night when everybody was in deep sleep, Ahmed woke up hearing some noise, as if some animal was working on the bones . The noise like krrtkrrtkrrrrtkrktktktkktkrt…,made him more curious. Suddenly he saw two red-yellow eyes glowing in the dark looking straight in his direction. Ahmed did not make a mistake in recognizing the animal, as he walked towards the window which had grills fixed into it. The big-cat stopped and twitched its ears for the noise Ahmed foot-steps made on the somewhat creeky wooden floor, in the dead of night. The pair of eyes suddenly 125

The Riparian Neighbours

turned away and leaped over the Barbed-wire fence, landing over with a slight thud !, then vanished. There was no electricity supply in the night in the ‘Reserve’ there, so Ahmed lit the candle, which the chowkidar has left on the side table. Ahmed checked all the doors to doubly ensure they were bolted securely. Then he went over to his sister Bilqis whose blanket had fallen on the floor. He pulled-up the blanket and covered her with affection. Then he checked if Saif was asleep properly. Then he went towards the couch where Rukaiyya was asleep, he stood there and watched her sleep for sometime. Then he withdrew the curtain, which hanged just behind the couch, the pink-face glowed in moonlight. He pulled up Rocking chair and sat there watching her. “Ahmed, what are you doing sleeping on this chair, I hope you have not started to walk in your sleep”, Bilqis in her sharp voice. “ Ahmed rubbed his eyes and stretched his arms and legs, looked around askance, then gripped himself. “…aaa…hmmmm…I ….never mind”, Ahmed with half-closed eyes snubbed her and dropped himself on the couch. The morning Sun, was covered by the clouds. “Rukaiyya , Saif , get-up , Oh Allah, its going to rain, our day will be spoiled ….” Bilqis. Then somebody knocked at the front entrance, which was the Main entrance. “It seems the Panther was here last night, there is a carcass of a fawn lying at the back entrance”, the chowkidar said, as he kept his umbrella and Rubber shoes at the Cane-hold. He wore the slippers lying there, and walked straight to the kitchen. He said louldy “ It 126

The Riparian Neighbours

might rain any moment now, your program may not go as planned last night, but you will see Deers in the compound, if it rains heavily today”. “why so kaka..?” Bilqis while tying her hairs, clutching the hair-band in her mouth and walked into the kitchen and stood next to the granite slab. Suddenly there was a cloud-burst. The chowkidar said “ Allah rahm44…” while looking outside the wooden window of the kitchen. Bilqis also rushed to the window, it started to rain first lightly then another cloud-burst suddenly it started to rain heavily. “this wouldn’t last more than an hour or so…, let me in please…” it was the Guide at the main door who came rushing the steps with umbrella. He took out his Gum-boots, as they were muddy at the door itself and walked bare-foot on the carpeted-floor. Thereafter everybody, had break-fast, as the parents also got up and came out of their rooms rather lethargically. “ So it is raining,… ”Bhat said as he cleaned his glasses looking at everybody while sitting don at the sofa where Ahmed slept earlier. It became very dark outside. The green vegetation became to appear still a darker green. The barks became darker with water dripping down the slender long Pines and firs trees. The rainy-water drops dripped fast their leaves, as they waved with the wind power shaking them of their weighty moist slumber.

44 Spare us. 127

The Riparian Neighbours

As the visitors sipped kahwa, tea there was some milk for the young visitors. Ahmed preferred to have kahwa, then the cow milk, which tasted different and smelled also. Package milk was still a far cry, although skimmed milk powder was used on these heights. “Well, the rain doesn’t intend to halt …as you predicted…” Ahmed to Guide, in a serious tone. “ …I must have annoyed Allah to make me eat my words…” Guide putting on grimace and smiled gently. Ahmed also smiled back after looking him for a moment. “ look the Deers, so many Deers they are collecting in the backyard…” Chowkidar informed everyone while lifting the curtains of the Central Hall. Everybody got up and went close to the windows. It was magnificent to see hundreds of Deer all struggling to get into the wide cMarinar trees to take shelter in the rains. “..they are collecting here, as on their way back there are no shady trees from the water-hole just below this Circuit house…” Guide broke the silence. Everybody kept watching the Deer herd. Suddenly Ahmed opened his huge windowpanes, which alerted the herd who became uncomfortable. The herd however watched with slight movement displaying their uneasiness. Their red bulging eyes glowed slightly as it grew darker and darker. “ if you see there eyes in the head-lights, they would glow red and put a awesome sight…” spoke Saghir, as everybody stood at the windows watching the herd. “ We were travelling in the night through forest 128

The Riparian Neighbours

further down this place towards the Canal project, in the middle of the road was the herd standing in the open. As the head-lights fell on them, they just stood over there fixed to the beam. We switched off the lights and then waited the herd to move. These are really very simple animals.” Saghir told, “ I will take some photographs….” Ahmed . “ Yes, yes you stand on the Centre-table and take a group photo with the Herd in the background…” Uzma, Ahmed’s mother said to him. “ Very well , Ma !” Ahmed and jumped up the table in excitement. Everybody faced the camera, as Ahmed took three snaps from different angle. Suddenly it stopped raining, the herd dissipated within few seconds, leaving their hoof marks only. “Let us get ready for the trekking..” Bilqis while rushing inside the bed room. Others also followed pursuit. That day they went to the same spot near the farm by their Jeep. Thereafter took the Trekking route which ran parallel to the fencing all over the reserve. The fencing was not all over but it was done in portions where grazing was common.

The trekking stretch was some few kilometers long and was fuill of short cuts. These short-cuts made the trek still shorter but exhaustive. It meant that during the dry seasons from small seasonal streams went dry, they made a natural steps with the roots and trunks of the trees stood exposed which were firmly embedded in the 129

The Riparian Neighbours

rocks upper crust. The spacing between the exposed roots and trunks were sometimes a foot wide at other were around two feet apart in height. So while the trek route would swerve round an extra meters, one could just cut those, by pushing oneself to these heights. As the it has rained these streams were extremely slippery with water still dripping down some these streams. The trek route was however pebbled with large round-shaped stones all laid down so that the surface was hard all through the season even when it rained or snowed. It wasn’t exactly a motorable tract but the ponies worked through. Very often one would come across a herd of cows who would just hold the whole passage some seven feet wide only. At other places it would shrink and expand upto 11 feet. Some of the pebbles simply stood out as they were just too large to be leveled. These rock-stones were those from the natural Canal which flowed just near the reserve. These would simply collect at the banks of the same. Many structures inside the Reserve were also made of these stones, as a cheap and easily available material. The hooves of the ponies and the cows made very strange noise. The cows would very often slip and then recover as there hooves were plain and did not have the soles as the ponies did. These ponies were of the locals who used them to haul dried wood and fallen twigs of the trees. The locals around were allowed to take collect the dead wood from the forest reserve. The symbiotic relationship was part of afforestation. In fact this was the Central government 130

The Riparian Neighbours

support plan which was being tried here as part of the national conservation policy for the dwindling forest cover. “Look there is someone on the tree up there…” Ahmed pointed upwards. He was leading with the Guide, everyone tried to peer through the thick foliage. Then they heard a voice of falling twigs and branches. “ look they are cutting the fallen tree there” Bilqis “Gul Muhammad ,do they the permission to cut that tree”, Midhat asked in a condescending tone. Gul Muhammad the Guide shouted at the man up the tree. “he says the tree has been marked by the Forest office for people”, Gul Muhammad “ … that is nonsense, the fallen tree cannot be a dead tree by default, tell him to stop cutting and that man on top, what is he doing…?” Midhat said adamantly. The wood-cutters who belonged to one of the contractors reluctantly came down when they were told that sahebs were also from Department. “ well how can they just chop trees without permission with forest guards around ..” Uzma asked Midhat. “ Well it is the law and also the corruption, besides there are very few forest guards here. Guides like him”, pointing towards Gul Muhammad are helpless, and continued “…before these contractors”, Midhat said. “Every year survey is carried out of the forest, those trees which are sick and dying, are marked with white paint and are numbered by the DFO. These forests also have the logging facilities within the forests.” Midhat explained. “...this is the main cause of malaise here in the forestry program. 131

The Riparian Neighbours

Unfortunately, this is an important loophole….”, Midhat “…mmmm…how…aunty?”, Ahmed to Midhat. “ Well, it is seed of corruption….” Midhat. “……Ooo ! look the water-hole and the animals, with Sun rays creating a halo around !” Saif who was sitting on the shoulder of Guide Gul Muhammad. Everybody started looking down in between the mountains. The clouds below gradually cleared away. The scene below was breathtaking as the Sun lighted the forests below, the picturesque aerial view unfolded. “Where are the bears…?”, Saif asked. “ Well ! the bears ….hmmm…they are dark colored so they can’t be seen from the top….” Gul Muhammad said in an amused fashion. Others smiled. It was some two hours of trekking that the visitors have reached the top of the mountain where small forest canteen was spotted with a Radio Tower, which was placed for watching the activity in the forest and also the animals. The visitors sat at the small benches make of old logs, exhausted just fell to them. “Look Ahmed is fuming”, Bilqis “….Look those fumes coming out of his Coat.” Everybody glazed at Ahmed. Ahmed looked over his shoulders with light fumes raising just above his shoulders. “it seems we will need a Fire-fighter to douse the flames” Ahmed and smiled back. “The Jeep was without coolant so engine over-heated.” Rukaiyya finally broke her silence. Ahmed took off his Coat, to cool 132

The Riparian Neighbours

down. The heat of the body made the moisture around the coat turn into steam. There everybody sat and drank tea, with some bread-butter and omelette. They also ate the fruits, which the ladies have packed before starting for the trek. Finally took some photographs. The visitors stayed there for some hour and a half. “…the photography is prohibited here..” Ahmed “…it’s written there” he pointed towards the wall made of stone-blocks which had the entrance to the small Wireless-Station, where two Forest-guards sat and watched the visitors through the windows of the watch-tower instead. Uzma and Midhat went inside the Watchstation. Uzma took a short-interview after identifying herself, as free-lancer. Thereafter, she pointed out the illegal felling of trees, which they have just come across. The guards simply stood silent. Then one of them drew the courage to say that the cutting and felling is normally done by the people of the contractors under a permit, that for any further questions she will have to speak to the DFO. The guards then became silent and asked the inquisitive visitors to excuse them for fear of loss of their job and victimization by their superiors for speaking too much. The visitors made their move from the place. It started to get cloudy up there and also damp up there.

133

The Riparian Neighbours

Although, the forest reserve below was very much visible through the transluscent clouds which flew past the visitors with the breeze blowing towards Eastwards. It was the end of their tour and the visitors were to return home that evening. “We would like to visit a kashmiri village” Bilqis to her father Saghir. “..ye, yes.. we go to the carpets weavers village, sometime later” , Saghir nodded while holding his climbing stick made of pinewood. The stick was nicely carved and varnished with a small metallic grip-top, which was silver-polished, it had some carvings made on it. It was also most late evening that the family left finall bid adieu to the reserve for their retreat to home. Before they left they had some final photos of the reserve, Guest-house and the workers, the Guide Gul Muhammad, Chowkidar, Guards and men from the Trout Fish farm. They all came to offer greetings and obeisance to the superior officials of the State. The men from the fish farm gave some fried and steamed fish for their journey back home which was about two and half hours or so. That night Ahmed and his family stayed at Rukaiyya’s place. During their vacations Ahmed along with is family-members and sometimes all alone himself, would visit Rukaiyya’s place and play at the banks of Dal lake. Ahmed learnt to play guitar during his visit to Rukaiyya’s place from her maternal uncle. He wore bohemian looks always clad in his dark blue jeans and back T-shirts. 134

The Riparian Neighbours

PART III VISIT TO INDO-CHINESE BORDER FLOW OF SINDH AND MOONSCAPE LADAKH.

135

The Riparian Neighbours

Chapter Eight The family stayed in Srinagar, the state capital for about month and a half. The vacations were drawing to end. The family decided to over stay by another fortnight. It was long journey full of adventure and new friends. Some relationships were lasting, some not so lasting one. Subsequently for many more coming years during Saghir’s posting in Kashmir that Ahmed and his family came to visit the same spots/places in the Valley again and again. Their first visit was however the most memorable one. “it wasn’t an afterthought, it wasn’t premeditated, though it manifests so, It was as sanguine as Spontaneity though desires so.” The opportunity came in the wake of massive corruption scandal. The BRO(Border Roads Organization) could not maintain the roads last summers, due to the faulty equipment. This equipment was, one of the biggest symbol of national loot. These were the Maruti roadbuilding equipment and machines. These were second-hand machines which were painted new and were purchased by this government organizatioon at an exorbitant price. Saghir was to undertake the building of the forward post roads which were to be then connected with the National High way which ran 136

The Riparian Neighbours

from Srinagar-Leh, another 300 odd Kilometers of young Himalayan ranges and mountains finally culminating in the moon landscape of Leh and the Ladakh region of the State of Jammu and Kashmir which comprised of the one-third territory of the state area. The tension in this area was mounting and every summer was a source of contention. The increasing Sino-Pak presence and building of troops and roads in the occupied areas of the Ladakh division and Skardu were alarming . These regions were lost by Indian Defence during previous conflicts between IndiaPakistan and India and CMarina. This year though with new Military dictates coupled with some brutal crushing of the movement for democracy in Pakistan , the defence scenario was getting worse. Troop mobility was the priority, this region was still completely out of bounds for foreign tourists. However the definition of foreigner in this Division was much scarce than one in North-East India. Even the Indian citizens, not permanent residents of the regions, were required to have the permit from the District Magistrate or the concerned Army authority to visit some of the remote regions bordering Burma and CMarina. The security scenario was not that so bleak. It was the despotic South Bloc45 The visit of new Prime Minister was equally important who has been a Deputy Prime Minister earlier during the War-crisis. 45 South Bloc is the name of the building housing Indian Prime Minister’s office and Inetrnal security ministries as well. 137

The Riparian Neighbours

The family was to travel initially by Air, with new services launched for Leh. Leh 46was Union territory. So State government had very little control on the town and capital of the Ladakh region of the State. The new Prime Minister promised the international airport at Srinagar, also development for the areas falling in the upper regions of the River Indus popularly known as Sindh , as referred by the locals. So lot of infrastructure work was initiated that year many with immediate effect. The long political disrepair warranted the new projects. It was decided that Saghir will soon have to proceed first to Leh in a Military aircraft. Later to Nubra Valley. He was to conduct the areial survey and assess the damage and repairs. Meanwhile the family will stay in Srinagar and go around to places like Pahalgam and Gulmarg. The two most important tourist spots. The family spent some time visiting Gulmarg and Pahalgam. All through the state highways, load of tourist buses local from other parts of land would rattle their nosiy diesel engines through. These would momentarily belch out thick black smoke from their dangling silencers. The word silencer would be plain mockery of the literal meaning and the mechanical role assigned thereto. At the Gulmarg the family trekked all 46 Leh being District Head quarters of Ladakh region( one of three Divisions comprising state of Jammu and Kashmir. 138

The Riparian Neighbours

the way up to the khilanmarg where a film shooting was being carried out. They played in the snow for the first time. This was only visible there during the summer season. Otherwise it was just grasslands all over in the plains of Gulmarg. The winters being different story altogether. Some fifteen days passed away. Family after hectic travelling criss-crossing the length and breadth of the Kashmir division . They finally halted for their upward journey to Leh. Everybody was looking forward to the excitement. It would be privilege visit to the remotest lama state of India. The largely Buddhist part of the State. Much of it was never reached by the erstwhile ruler called Maharaja. Maharaja came from the region of Jammu and was a Dogra.47 Saghir and family were not in contact as, he was mobile. Although his office staff would relay the messages. There were no civilian communication lines. The National Highway was still not open for public. The National Highway extending from Srinagar valley to the heights of moonscape Ladakh divion. The Highway was the vital lifeline was those living in the upper Himalayan mountainous regions. The heights of Zanskar and Zojila48 are always covered with snow and this destroyed 47 This is anme of the caste of warrior class in this region of foot hills of Himalaya. 48 Zanskar is the name of the range while the Zojila is the name of a treachrous Pass on a Glacier. The snow in some parts had turned 139

The Riparian Neighbours

the bitumen roads. The repair of the roads usually would start in the month of March itself. However it was opened only in May for the public. This road channel was lifeline for the rest of region. This was to maintain the stocks of essential and non-essential items. Summers was the right and only time for the buffer-stocks. The civilians of the Upper regions of Ladakh could only manage their supplies through the annual maintenance of the National highway segment. Finally the telephone communications in endMay was established. The family at last heard form Saghir after a long gap. The family was to fly in next two days to Leh. Meanwhile Ahmed and Saif so have Bilqis found the friends in land-lords childen of the same age. Some others who lived in the vicinity , some Sikhs, Hindus, Afghans and some Iranians. Ahmed made a good friend with the Land-lords lovely looking daughter Arasta. The girl was half-Afghan and Half-Kashmiri. The Kabbanis as the land-lords were known in the locality. She had a younger flabby brother whose name was Arman. Everyday the snobbish Arman who was much like his mother, would boast of his new imported clothes. There were some of his cousins from Iran. In the evening Ahmed and Saif would come with their elder sister to play at the black as it hardly melted. Such being the temperature. 140

The Riparian Neighbours

Kabbanis paly-ground which was of massive size. The portion with the Ahmed’s family was the smallest and it had small gate which opened into the orchard of the Kabbanis. Boys and girls were allowed to pluck the fruits like cherries, apples, red and green ones, only under the strict supervision of the mali.49 The massive house of Kabbanis had three-portions. In another lived a widow and her two spinster daughters. They had some dogs. These dogs were the Golden Labradors. A bitch with the litter, were the focus of attraction for the children. These residents were not so friendly, yet the sudden burst of life in their monotonous world bore a reluctant welcome. The children at first waited for the three women to leave for their daily evening stroll which lasted some hour and a half. Both Ahmed and his elder sister Bilqis were fond of dogs. Finally one day the entire lot decided to request the ladies, if they would allow them to rear up the litter. The bitch was no longer fussy about their presence. The gang fed the bitch which made it still more friendly. Not far away was the camp of the CRPF 50, where the special Dog unit was also housed. Some of the 49 Gardener, in India it is a low-caste among the Hindus 50 Central Reserve Police Force, a para-military Central force, formerly known as Crown Reserve Police Force. 141

The Riparian Neighbours

boys got friendly with the Policemen. These Policemen also enjoyed their company and took them around the camp. It all appeared adventurous to those young eyes. The boys infomed the girls about the dogs squad nearby. They also told the girls how these dogs were being trained in various jobs. But there were no pups or Bitches. The kennel was far away in Jammu where the CRPF reared the German Shepherds and Labradors. The role of this squad was ever increasing for Bomb disposal and sniffing guns and ammunition. The CRPF was coordinating with the Army for better breeding and training of their dogs. The girls were grown ups and knew that it wasn’t the right place for the girls. This CRPF unit had most men from Southern part of India. The topography was very different there, volcanic soil and equatorial climate. These men would brave winters with not so adequate clothings on tour of duty. The gang soon realised that they cannot have the fun and involvement with the Dog squad. The boys in all seven including Ahmed and Saif tried to influence the girls and goaded them to talk to the threesome of ladies. The girls refused to oblige, as they were not happy with their brothers visiting the Policemen. Finally after few days have passed with the litter now 142

The Riparian Neighbours

making noises and crawling around on their bellies with their eyes now open. All the pups resembled their mother. Ahmed, Saif, Amarjit and punit chose their pup. They would enter through the small opening in the wooden partition wall. In valley it was the wooden partition walls which marked the boundaries much like the state of Rajasthan all desert where the sand stone blocks were used as the demarcation. Wood was cheap and plenty, it kept the house warm and gave ornamental interiors. Although the modern houses were made of bricks, concrete with roofs tiled . In fact one could easily peep through the small spaces between the planks which were bolted from inside to form a wall. The gang

looked for some other bitches with litter as to own a pup. It was not to be. Ahmed and his family were here for some more than a month and half. Saghir was still not expected and the family joining him in Leh was also postponed. The Air tickets were requested for later dates. The people from the office of Saghir came everyday with the small printouts of telex messages for the family.Usammah the mother, also made friends with some women in the neighbourhood. Although the Khan’s had cook and two peons for the household errant. 143

The Riparian Neighbours

Uzma decided to explore the market place herself . Sometimes the ladies would go and buy some woolen stuff which was of export quality but was expensive one. Uzma and the family including Ahmed, Saif, Bilqis and Arasta would go every evening during their stay, to the lal chowk, the bustling city market for their walk, a daily dose of freshly-baked Pineapple pastries and tinned Apple juice from the famous Bengali sweets house. At the famous joint there was always a mad rush of the tourists , locals alike. However at any given time the presence of the heavy paramilitary forces, ever alert and on guard, were indicative of the sublime peace and tranquil façade. Uzma and her childen visited the Bhats also. Very often the Bhats and Khans alongwith the Kabbanis would collect at the Bengali Sweet House for some North Indian dishes (mainly Punjabi dishes) , Ironical though there was hardly any thing Bengali about the sweet house, barring a few fast-food preparations. This was the Indian versison of the McDonalds and Kentucky chains to name a few. The American brands like Coke and Pepsi were now the persecuted names. The new Central government was not at all in favor of the American brands and the culture that sprouted around those products. Many decades later the 144

The Riparian Neighbours

somewhat same leadership on regaining the power decided to liberalise the economy and gave in to consumerism. The same old guard decided to give in, unwillingly though to the wrath of bankruptcy. The prevalence of wisdom was ever elusive. The political bankruptcy of Gerontocracy was made evident as policy after policy unveiled the structural reforms in the country. The social discrepancy became too evident, to shake the edifice of the political system. Some power-hungry then made bid to cling to power by changing the constitutional politics. As the couplet 51 goes ; “haram ruswa hua pir-e-haram ki kum nighahi se, jawanan e Tartari kis qadr saheb e nazr nikle ….” Translated it reads: “The learning went to spoil For the myopic thoughtless, O’ sons of Tartar52 how thoughtful And distant vision you’re…” The repetitive bout of crisis-management made the system infested with corruption where secure living 51 Sir Iqbal, famous Urdu Poet and thinker, with Kashmiri lineage, lived in early part of twentieth century in Lahore, Pakistan 52 refers to heathen Mongol destroyer of caliphate at Baghdad in 16th century, who later embraced Islam. 145

The Riparian Neighbours

was no longer available, even to the privileged. These scenarios were discussed by the elite, Uzma used the opportunity of meeting these women and men from the elite Kashmiri background to prepare her dossier for the weekly newspaper despatch. As the family waited for Saghir message to reach Leh , they were invited to a Kashmiri Muslim wedding. The entire family, went with Kabbanis, Bhats and Singhs as well. They hired a small van for the purpose. Although the boys came in a separate jeep. There was strict segregation of men and women. Most women observing purdah. The most outstanding was the feast which the guests had . The food was served with men squatted on the floor sitting in long rows. The atmosphere was bit noisy, as people shouted at each in their local language. The Kashmiris are known to be loud and gay people, festive by nature. The culture which loves to eat and chat and chat endlessly. Then came two men holding vessels and towels on their shoulders. These were typical Persian way of washing hands before dinner. A heavy jug-shaped for water and a basin shaped vessel covered to hold the waste-water. All shiny tin-plated copper vessels. Then came men with large plates containing large mounds of rice in real sense. Then the rich gourmet made from lamb meat 146

The Riparian Neighbours

with lots of chillies and curd. Some chicken preparation for the special guests like Khans. No local invitee tasted that dish leave alone eating the same. “Hey Arman! , how on earth do we finish these tonnes of rice…”, Ahmed in amazement. As he looked at the rice and other contents laid all over the rice mound. Each huge plate was shared by four men. Arman gave his silly smile and spoke in a sarcastic tone “ …We(Kashmiris) are so rich as to waste all this rice and throw it for not so rich like you wheat-consumers from India….”, “ Throw it!…. serious Amarjit( a Kashmiri Sikh boy)…” Ahmed “yaasusss…” as he gulped down the rista53 . “hmmmm, that is not pemissible…” Ahmed “….Permissible under what!…” Arman “…I mean under our religion….”, “Oh I never knew you were religious as well….” Arman continued with his tone. “Sirs would you like to have some of Gushtaba and Roghan Josh54 …..” somebody politely asked. He was wearing a embroidered Kashmiri cap and fawn colored shalwar kamiz with brown embroidered woolen waistcoat with golden buttons. “some gustaba please and some curd-sauce” Ahmed while taking ways for the man to pour it 53 A dried meat ball fried in animal fat. 54 Two famous dishes of Kashmiri cuisine. 147

The Riparian Neighbours

in the thaal55. “ well I was always religious man and try to behave like a pious muslim, I say my sala’at regularly…” Ahmed, “…you don’t have to explain and justify to this fatso…” Amarjit whispered in Ahmed’s ear. “ he is pissed off with you..!” Before Ahmed could ask him Arman who was busy devouring sumptous food spoke in threatening tone “ I know you bloody Amarjit you are spekaing foul about me to Ahmed…” Amarjit scared “…nono Oh no…please we are not speaking about you, it was about those two boys who live in the Police colony……” “you you…..” Arman raising his left fist . “ what is going on there Arman , can’t you ever behave with your friends for once…!” Mr.Kabbani reprimanded knowing his spoilt son well. Everybody try to hide their smile, Amarjit could not . “You sard…. I will not spare you for this….tomorrow you will have to fight with me in our lawn…” then he menacingly looked towards Ahmed and other boys who were shairng the same plate. Arman was the bigger and the bulkier of the lot. At the same time he enjoyed bullying the younger lot. This year was particularly hard for him as he flunked. His sister topped her class and in all sections of her 55 The huge engraved plate for four people or more to eat the food. 148

The Riparian Neighbours

standard. Arasta was in Eight standard, studying at the prestigious Convent school. An all rounder at the school was good at protocol , polite, aristocratic in her demeanour, yet friendly. Arasta was much like her father and Arman was much like his mother. Mrs.Kabbani was the only daughter of her rich parents, who were very big landlords of the Valley and held Ministerial portfolios in the State cabinet. Elite of the valley. Arasta only commonality with here mother was her stunning looks. Mrs.Kabbani did not bear the typical Kashmiri features, her facial features were more smooth and round. A distinctive pink complexion, pretty looking woman for her age. Kabbanis were few of Indian muslims who retained their cultural and social links with their relatives in Iran and Afghanistan even after centuries. They mainatained it through marriages and other means like business. Most of the Kabbani relatives were into Carpet and Dry fruits merchandise. Kabbanis regularly flew to Iran and Afghanistan very often. This genre did affect the mentality of Mrs.Kabbani . As the party packed for the day and went back to their homes. The boys apprehended bullshow the next day. It was an unexpected change of venue for everybody. The boys did not go to the Kabbanis lawn to play next evening. Instead 149

The Riparian Neighbours

they decided to go to Amarjit’s plcae. Amarjit took out all the three bicycles, belonging to hima nd his younger brotehrs . In all the six boys went to the nearby paddy fields and tried to catch some fishes and toads. They took Amarjit father’s fishing rod. Well there were no small fish or tadpoles. This was only during the rainy seasons which was due to commence. Somehow the fields used to get inundated with the small fish which were cooked with rice. It was very much to the local taste and apetitite. This was quite new experience for both Ahmed and Saif. The boys that day caught some toads which were of brownish color. Frogs were a common sight in the area. Each evening the nosiy creatures would ho around the lawns in the vicinity. On could find them indoors, if the doors were left open for sometime. Mosquitoes were not that a problem. That evening Arman called up Ahmed’s number and said “…this Amarjit is a crap, you should not mix up with him…..” then sensing Ahmed’s disapproval by his stony silence on the other end, modifying his tone “…..anyway last evening was just ajoke, nothing to take seriously yaaar (friend)” . Somebody spoke from behind, it was a familiar voice, “Ok Ok you can also talk to him,…” he shouted at the voice behind. Then speaking back “.. this Hunza, ( Iranian first 150

The Riparian Neighbours

cousin of Arman, Arasta) wish to speak to you…” “hmmmm…yes….” Ahmed broke his silence. “Baji (elder sister) referring to Arasta, ….and Bilqis Appi will talk to Naina auntie for the puppies…then we all can go and play with them in the evenings…”. Hunza was the youngest of the lot, almost Saif’s age. “Oh that is good news, my sister can be really generous to others sometime.” Ahmed spoke within audible range of Bilqis who was seated on the sofa in the large sitting room reading some magazine. Bilqis looked at him and ignored the taunting brother. “ dinner time children….” Uzma their mother called from the other kitchen which was next to the Main sitting room. This was the new temporary home as the official accomodation was relieved following transfer of Mr. Khan to Leh region . Although the Bureaucrats were in the habit of retaining their official family residence under one pretext or another , Mr. Khan chose otherwise. Although the rules permitted him so. However Saghir was honest man, since his family was not to reside in the region, so he decided to forego his palatial and tasteful official accomodation. Architectural design for these houses were almost similar, although the interiors varied a lot. It seems that the rich Kashmiri elite of the region copied the English and American designs of late. Raj nagar 151

The Riparian Neighbours

was the posh area , although it was plagued by the same basic civic amenities, as were the old Srinigar city which bore narrow lanes, open drains some even without gutters, leaky water pipes. The stench in the old markets was unbearable, hygiene was everything but a priority. These elite also had farm houses in their huge and massive orchards. There were very few rules meant for them. It was more of selfregulatory thing, whatever design and architectural value this part of the Srinagar town had. Many years later when Ahmed turned into an aspiring young man, he met Arasta who narrated the horrors they met in the valley. How they had to runaway leaving their homes , orchards and other landed property for fear of extortion, kidnapping and most of all the threat to life. Arasta was in her third year at the Medical college in Delhi meant for women candidates only. Her brother Arman sent to US where his Iranian cousins were staying for the studies. Mrs Kabbani was ill with chronic depression. After here prolonged treatment, she was a very different person, warm and pleasing. It was as if the moral transformation have occurred, with some divine intervention. Many more elite kashimiris including the Kashmiri Pandits (Brahmins) went to have 152

The Riparian Neighbours

themselves registered in the New Delhi office for assesmment of the loss of landed property and other movables. Many of this elite element, migrated to USA under various amnesty schemes and other visa norms. The Kabbanis however made a bold decision to wait for the political situation in the State to change. Their gamble paid off, with a definite price. Next evening the boys and girls were invited for the birthday treat of Hunza, she was turned five. This was the first time that Ahmed and others had access to those rooms which belonged to the Kabbanis. The interiors were as rich and tasteful as one can imagine. All Persian carpets both Silk and woolen, tasteful copper vessels and decoration items, walls with beautiful wooden engravings and all panelled with Walnut and Oak wood. The Kabbanis owned a large Sawing business also. Mr.Kabbani was the leading Forest contractor of the State. His wife’s political background and her family connections helped him a lot. Hunza’s birthday had some Iranian taste, which bore reflection of now prohibited Shahtraditions. Hunza dressed in impeccable white gown with a matching head-gear, it looked more of wedding gown than birthday suit. Celebrating birthday the western-style was now prohibited in Iran under Ayatollah regime. The elite there in 153

The Riparian Neighbours

Iran was now under siege by the intelligence wing called the pasdaran; the moral police. The Iranian revolution meant dispensing away with the western life-style and fashions. It did not necessarily meant dispensing away with the western manners completely. Oil economics and strategic value kept Iran sensitive to the western values despite the social revolution. Hunza’s family, were one of the few Iranians who were migrating to USA lock stock and barrel. It was not due to persecution but because of the War crisis coupled with the freezing of Iranian money and assets by the US government directives to the Banks and Asset managers in USA and UK. It was getting increasingly difficult to operate from Iran. Hunza’s family essentially in exports. “….even if we become US citizens we can still retain the Iranian citizenship, such are the laws of citizenship for natural Iranians….” Hunza’s mother told Mrs.Khan as Ahmed and Bilqis listened to her standing next to her while eating the cake. She continued “Times will change very fast for Iranians, there is complete anathema for anything connected with Shah, from neck-ties to English language,just about everything…, this whole region is changing……” . “Well, well, it is the super-powers which are playing us against each other ….these Americans and Russians are equally self154

The Riparian Neighbours

serving.” Hunzas father joined who sported beard and wore a shirt with straight collars and buttoned up around the neck. “ so you wear chador now…” Mrs Khan who was wearing a light blue printed Silk Saree. “ look Iranian revolution is no about wearing chador, …..we have been wearing the same for years now, yes not a compulsion then. I don’t have anything against the revolution. In any case the Sunnis are not that affected lot. Iran always had clergy which was well entrenched in to our social and political structure. Moreover Ayatollah lived in France before the revolution….”. “Can I serve you some kababs” Mrs kabbani with a round bowl conatining kababs, placed in a wooden tray. “Irna, Mrs Khan is a journalist… a person of your interest, she writes” looking at Hunza’s mother in surprise she continued as each took kababs from the bowl “Didn’t you tell Mrs. Khan ?”. “Oh really is that so !…interesting, what do you wirte….?” Mrs Khan delighted asked Irna. Irna shyingly smiled took a bite at the kabab. “hmmm, these are good, ammi,” Ahmed to Uzma . “… I hope this meat is legal in the State”, Usamamh said , “who cares…!…” Mrs Khan, Mr.Kabbani joined in who overheard her. “Are there no laws for hunting wild animals” Hunza’s father asked, looking amazed. “The vegetarian lobby in power is trying to do all this”, 155

The Riparian Neighbours

Mr.Kabbani mocked and took Hunza’s father aside. “So what do you write, Irna ?.Mrs Khan. “Well I write on social affairs and some children literature….” Irna bent down to keep her plate in the basket meant for it. “Come I will show you my books thy are there”, she pointed towards the room at the far end. This room was next to the one which belonged to Arasta. “My son …, she pointed towards Ahmed…writes too, but only romantic poems”, and everybody bursts into laughter. Arasta and Saif has also joined. “ I am sre your son will be popular, he has inherited your looks and intelligence” Hunza’s mother said with compasion in her eyes as she looked at Ahmed. “Ammu he has already written one dedicated to me” Arasta tried to tease Ahmed. He stood there shyly bearing naughty smile with strange happiness striking his heart. By this time Amarjit, his two younger brothers and Punit had left. Some guests mostly men were seated in the lounge. Mrs Kabbani was busy in her kitchen with the cooking business, guiding the cook and her servants. Mrs Kabbani had number of servants, they changed their shifts one after another. At any given time she had five-six servants at her disposal. Arman was busy with his old friends from the school, now in a higher grade than his. Arman was in a reticent mood that 156

The Riparian Neighbours

day. He missed his old classmates after he flunked. Everybody walked in rows past the gallery , which housed the rooms one next to each other and few facing each other. Arasta and Ahmed fell behind, “.. this is my room….” She opened the door gently and swayed it gently leaning her back on to it. She held the door as Ahmed stood at the entrance. Arasta looked at Ahmed and then stared straight into his eyes, then entered the room, holding the door, as if inviting him. Ahmed stepped in braving his hesitation. The room had massive glass window which opened towards the front Lawn, where they played everyday. As Ahmed surveyed the room, Arasta went near the window, the door closed, she stood at the window with her knee bent , her long grey printed skirt flowing down the stool which had a chital skin stitched onto the cushion. Then she fixed her eyes on Ahmed, she directed Ahmed by her hand with nimble fingers to lift the pillow lying on the neatly laid bed. Ahmed walked towards the head of the bed, which had a smooth sea-blue satin bed sheet with matching pillow covers. They folded her arms holding close to her bosom with ere henna dyed hairs neatly tucked in a pony tail. All along she did not speak while fixing her look at Ahmed. “…This is my poem”, Ahmed was elated. She 157

The Riparian Neighbours

gently nodded putting a soft smile on her beautiful pink face, parting her deep red lips with teeth barely visible. “…ever since you gave me that, I have been watching you each evening from this window”….she paused looked down at her feet, she was wearing white canvas shoes with gucci markings. “ don’t mistake me, to be your lover, but I enjoy your attention, you are intelligent, that is what attracts me. I am older to you. There will be many girls of your age….” “ I do not wish to disappoint you, but you must be sincere with your women, you must not play with them.” Ahmed listened to her standing straight next to her bed with shock and in amazement. She continued, lifted one of her Barbie dolls in her hand, she held it close to her. “…these beautiful women which you see around are not fools, but they willingly allow their exploitation. I know you are a good boy with flair for women. Just don’t be spoiled by the attention. The heart of a poet must be real and authentic to the core, but do not patent it for surreptious mannerism” she paused once again with her aristocratic demeanour, she came close to Ahmed lifted his hands close to her and planted a touch of her lips, Ahmed eyes flickered with joy and passion. “your poem is my property, I shall read it again and again to myself, however I do not trust you having know you form 158

The Riparian Neighbours

sometime now.” “We can be well-wishers but not lovers I repeat….” , as she walked away Ahmed turned and stared at her from head to toe. Arasta opened the door held it with her captivating, now moist eyes looked at Ahmed to leave her room. They together walked into the room where Irna and others were present. Bilqis Ahmed’s sister looked up , as the duo entered. “Irna khala let us hear Ahmed’s poem dedicated to Arasta”, everybody looked at the two. Arasta gently moved towards the empty chair next to Bilqis. Bilqis hissed, “you did the right thing.” Arasta looked once again at Ahmed and then said “ he cant remember his poems, I will fetch the poem and recite it for you all” Arasta left for her room and was back with the paper which she had framed. This was the poem . Arasta once again asked him (Ahmed) if he wish to recite the same for all. Ahmed was still recovering from the taste which she(Arasta) has just provided to him. Arasta looked down at the paper which was now preserved in a Mahogany frame. She seemed to be in absolute control and command of the things . She drifted here dextrous long fingers on the paper as if touching the emotions of the stanzas, which the poem contained. She looked up, found herself the centre of everyones gaze. “..Well the poem is titled “Liason”…, 159

The Riparian Neighbours

ammmm…its in English,” while looking at Ahmed “…he writes in english and have also been published in a poetry journal in US, I am sure this poem will do equally well.” She smiled teasingly. “ The thoughts which reveal the dangerously beautiful-self, remain unsaid, as part of my unfounded fears. …1 The truth of a legend; its moral restrains, lest ‘transgress your consummate sight. …2 It was not once or twice, that the eyes, the loops of speech, combined for rederssal. …3 I shall live unheard; as enormity of your condescending eyes never enabled a liason. …4 I though remain possessed of warmth and concerns, as cleft in chin …5” As Arasta looked up the wrpaped silence broke into clapping and praise by elders. In the corner next to the door Mrs.Kabbani was standing looking at Ahmed , as stranger. Mrs.Kabbani never spoke to Ahmed during the rest of their stay in Srinagar .Indeed it was many years thereafter that when she came to Delhi as a 160

The Riparian Neighbours

broken and distraught for her treatment that she talked to Ahmed. Ahmed stayed mum of the rest of the evening. His empty looks secretly followed Arasta . Hunza and her family was leave for Delhi then to USA, the next morning. The proposal to have the direct international flight from Srinagar to USA was pending for long with the New Delhi, It was suppose to have the good for the tourist flow in the state which depended entirely on the income from the tourism and the exports which were largely was facilitated by this tourist movement. Arasta and Bilqis have talked to Naina aunty about the puppies and the eagerness of the young boys. They narrated her how the boys and Hunza have befreinded the bitch and the litter. Also how they would sneak into the small gaps of the wooden partition. Contrary to their much feared grumpy nature Naina auntie and her two daughters allowed the boys to take the bitch and the litter in the garage to play and take care of the canine family. The garage was where the original four wheeler of Jeep company belonging to Mr.Kabbani used to rest. Mr.Kabbani took great care of his American fourwheeler, it was a sports model, a powerful machine much suited for the mountainous terrain. Kabbanis had many vehicles mostly of American and European make. Their latest 161

The Riparian Neighbours

addition was a new Mazda, a small white car. Every other day the cars were lined up and they were washed and waxed by the drivers, some two three in all. Kabbanis had some other vehicles like trucks etc. There were two three buses as well. The Kabbanis were into many businesses like transport, fruits, as they owned Orchards and also Carpets, some handicrafts as well. However there main stay was logging Contracts. Next morning it was just Bilqis, Saif and Ahmed as the schools have reopened after the vacations. Bilqis around 11.00 am that morning asked here two younger brothers if they wish to accompany her to Arasta’s school nearby. “ Would there be something to play with”, little Saif asked with eagerness. “ yes yus yuuus, my dear younegr brother, as she kisse him on his cheeks. Saif swung his arms around her neck.Bilqis picked him up and spoke to her mother, “Ammi I am going to Aratsa’s school and expect us around lunch time…” Bilqis said loudly as she picked up Saif’s shoes from the small thatch stand, made of scraped walnut-wood , placed at the Main Door. “…would they allow you people in during the school hours..?”, Uzma asked from her bedroom. “… they are preparing for the sports festival at the school so there shouldn’t be any problem, Arasta asked me to come along to meet her friends there.” Bilqis as she 162

The Riparian Neighbours

walked with Saif in here arms towards the master bedroom. “ very well, take Ahmed also.., alone he will feel bored. ”, “ I am taking your dear son along, don’t worry about that…?, She waslked twords the main door an opened the gate where Ahmed was waiting. Ahmed extended his hand to take the small bag which Bilqis held in her arms. Bilqis bit surpised at the generosity, handed her bag to Ahmed , who then opened the main door. As Bilqis with Saif in her arms, Ahmed stooped to call their cook to close the door. The cook rushed out of the out-house , adjusting his Kashmiri cap on his head. “ coming coming Ahmed baba”. “Please close the door”. Ahmed turned away and shutting the door behind him. Bilqis with Saif was walking few steps ahead, Ahmed paced to join them. They climbed the steep road ahead turned right with the paddy fields on their left. They walked silently on the road, the sky was crystal clear and shining blue. On their right was the row of bungalows. They walked briskly in the afternoon Sun, which was not very hot, coupled with light breeze blowing across. “Appi there are fish inside…” Ahmed pointed towards the paddy fields, where the farmers were sowing the crop. “you mean in those fields…!” Bilqis looked over her shoulder with her neck slightly bent backwards, Saif also turned his face. “that day there was no fish here..”

163

The Riparian Neighbours

Saif exclaimed . “you also came here with bhai56” Bilqis asked as she held his face close to hers with affection. “ No , yes there was Amrjit, and his two brothers, Pintu also, but Arman was not there, he was angry with all..., so we did not to his place”, Saif spoke with childish innocence. “Hummm, I see.., you like to go for fishing…?, Bilqis to Saif. “I don’t know”, Saif gestured with his hands simultaneously, as one is not sure. Bilqis was wearing traditional white shalwar kamiz like the some of the girls at the Black gate. This was the school. A simialr face appeared and took them inside the grounds. This was Arasta. Te scholl had an impressive building, a chapel and residential quarters for the Nuns, some of them from foreign missions. The Principal was on the round alongwith two other teachers. The Prinicpa wearing White robes like a Convent Nun, she had a rosary in her hand with a small silver cross dangling. Of the other two teachers one was a Nun wearing Grey robes with like-colored head cover. She had a cross hanging from the belt at the waist. The other teacher was in Saree, this was the Head Mistress. Arasta introduced her guests to her prinicipal, who was a European and very warm, though with stern looks. She spoke commandingly, yet carried a charm. Bilqis gently bowed bedning here knees and head simultaneously, Ahmed and Saif wished 56 Urdu for brother. 164

The Riparian Neighbours

the teachers . “In which school do you study ?” to Bilqis, as the other two looked around and talked to their staff about the progress on arrangements for the rehearsal that evening. “ I am studying at Convent of Jesus and Mary, Delhi, Ahmed and Saif study at St.Columbus. He is in sixth standard and him in KG. We are overstaying our vacations…”. “Well you must hurry back to your schools , God bless you!” Principal walked away with the teachers. Arasta introduced the three some to her friends and said, “Nudrat and nafis are sisters and they can help auntie shop silk at the factory, nearby. Their father is the General manager there, they stay also in the same premises, a very nice place..”paused and then resumed “…its bit scary ,with deep foliage and huge trees, its like that kids story where the little girl visits the granny and sleeps in the bears house” hihihhihihi….they giggled together. Ahmed stood silently behind the circle which the girls have formed. “Ahmed you stay here ,you cant go to the hostel section, we will be back soon,” then she shouted at the girl in the Basketball court, “Shashi, he is our friend, join him for some time”, then she turned again to Ahmed as the other girls walked together with Bilqis and Saif towards the hostel “..you play basket ball… or any sport she is our team captain, ask her for any 165

The Riparian Neighbours

indoor or outdoor sport”, Ahmed nodded. Arasta took a few steps and then stopped and swirled back with her scots skirt flowing, you can hihimmm…. certainly flirt around that is if you want…” she enjoyed teasing Ahmed. Ahmed tried to hide his smile. He walked towards the basket-ball court adjacent to the same was the volley ball court, then at distance was the lawn tennis court. Ahmed with his disarming smile asked Shashi “ Hi I am Ahmed , how are you ?” “Oh I am fine, so your from plains..” “Sorry ! I couldn’t follow you…” “ Ahh I mean you are from Delhi, in kashmir we call rest of Indians as people from Plains.., nothing offensive, just the tradition.” Shashi bore typical Kashmiri features but her blue eyes dominated the facial looks. She was bit tall for her age and athletic built, almost height of Ahmed . “ you are the first Kashmiri pundit I have met since my arrival here, tell me something about your part of society, I hear you guys are different types and don’t mix with the Muslims and others here.” “ I do not know who told you all that, cant you see for yourself, may be what you say was true in past but not now. Ina any case you cannot subvert the majority community” They reached the Gmaes room where they picked two fibre raquets. “ these racquets are pretty expensive ones. I purchased 166

The Riparian Neighbours

two from Pakistan, mine is Addidas, I play lawn tennis for my school, then I also go to Sports club in Delhi” , “you aspire to be in Indian team…”Shashi smiled. “Well my friend you never know, fate may just shine anytime anyday…” “So you are a fatalist..” “No no…!” Ahmed quipped, “…I was trying to explain to you in simple terms…” “ you are good at mixing words…” Ahmed simled and tried to change the topic “you girls tend to mature, fast, read mind well..” Shashi looked at him, and said “ why did Arasta say something to you…?” “Ahhh….mmmm….” “ you don’t have to act like hiding something, she is my best friends and we share it all” “hmmmmmm, the girl talk” Ahmed tried to gain ground here. The two started to play tennis. Ahmed was good at power game, but Shashi played with her skills and baseline game, she used her height and athleticism to overcome forehand smash and the game at the Net by Ahmed. They played for some half an hour. Ahmed won with ease loosing just one game towards the end of the last set, he couldn’t afford to disenchant the lady. “Can I treat you to a cold drink, at the canteen” Ahmed “Aw, that is good idea, but you cant go inside , I will fetch for two of us” “then please allow me to treat you” As he slid his hand into pocket of his jeans, “Oh no no.. 167

The Riparian Neighbours

please..Ahmed , you are my new friend” “… Please I insist, let it be on me…” Shashi started to walk away “Ok then something to eat, is on me…”, Shashi turned “…you are persistent and chauvinist too..hihhihhi…” Shashi took the note from him and ran with her pony swinging at her nape. They shared burgers and the cold drinks, seated on the bench in the Park. “I like coke somehow this new Indian brand is not to my taste” Shashi as she sipped and looked at the bottle. “ Well this is real stupid and strange…” he took a bite “…when we went to Pkistan two months back, Coke and Fanta was very much in the market in both large and small sizes, so were parker and sheaffer, now when we reached Atari, for the drink, one finds these unrecognizable Indian brands, hardly any taste and match for the Coke and Pepsi” . Shahshi nodded, they both looked around when Shashi said “ …these politicians are silly lot…” “Shashi your best friend Grand-father is one, who is a Minister too, just remember that subtle difference…” Shashi puts an agitated look “…so what I can speak what is true, we are taught in the convent to speak and stand for the truth. Also the character of women is indefatigable.” “ Alright we get the point..” what do you man WE?” , “ Ah , that’s my habit moreover the Royalty in England refers to itself as We and in 168

The Riparian Neighbours

India WE would be translated for hum, the pronoun in Urdu means both ‘us’ ; not the US..” he smiled and continued in the same breadth “… and aaa…’me’…you understand now” “you are impressive with words dear boy, what do plan to be politican or a Lawyer” “No Iwish to become a writer, a creative writer” “ Where do you think you will earn a living..” Shashi with sarcasm. “hmmmm you are write a creative writing does not feed here, I am sure by the time the stage arrives, things will be very different.” “you are optimistic” “ you got to be that is what is creative or rather makes you creative” “Alright what have you written so far, lets see if you even qualify as a creative peron” Shahsi emphasised creative in a teasing tone. “ Ahhh I wrote one poem on yor friend…” “I know that, but that doesn’t make you a poet damn it or whatever you want to be…” Shashi was always an aggressive person when it came to discussion. Her intimidating style would make strangers loose confidence. She tried it everytime she spoke with the boys. Theirs was all girls school “No I have written some more poems, and some short stories.. some of them were published in my school magazines”. “…they let you print all this romantic stuff” , “ Iwas the editor of the school magazine for the juniors then..” Aa ha !” and then she gave a hearty laugh, and quickly got up 169

The Riparian Neighbours

clearing grass ends from her skirt. Ahmed also stood up checking his jeans. The grass was somewhat wet, it was being prepared for the next days Sports event. He took out his handkerchief and said “ here there is some sauce on her shirt sleeves” Shashi checked it and looked at him “No down under at the cuff. She turned her sleeve with her other hand, and took her handkerchief which was neatly tucked in the belt of her skirt and cleaned it off. She asked Ahmed to wit at th railings, while she will see if the others will take longer to come out. Ahmed kept his hanky into his back pocket. He would always keep his hanky in the left back-pocket. His wallet in the pocket of his shirt. That day he was wearing his new Chritian Dior T-shirt a white with brown horizontal linings. His levis new shining blue color Jeans and Nike snikers with a Casio sports colourful watch made him stand out with the girls, who passed by. Ahmed in past few months has grown in height and although slim he has gained weight in proportion.

Ahmed stood near the railings next to the building façade, he stood facing the ground. There were more girls who came in their respective school buses to parctice for the next days competition. Ahmed thought how other boys would envy him 170

The Riparian Neighbours

when he narrates the same to them that evening. “Are you Ahmed…” Ahmed looked back where the voice called and without waiting for his answer the voice concluded “…you can leave, your sisiter and others will be late”. The girl seemed to be in haste, Even before Ahmed could ask, she stopped and took few steps. Ahmed holding to the wall of the corridor, which was laid with small plants. Ahmed amazed “..Get off it, your sister will reach home at 2.00, she will have lunch with us, tell that to your mother”. The girl then simply vanished. Ahmed walked home and told his mother what the girl has said. Ahmed laid in his bed and read a few magazines and then dozed off. There were no ceiling fans and there was hardly any need for then. “ “Ahmed O Ahmed O Ahmed”, his mother was calling. As he opened his eyes it was Amarjit and his two brothers, Pintu and Arman who were holding two small puppies, which were cooing . His younger brother was fast asleep on the other cot. “We got them today, now we can play with them as well”, Amarjit spoke. “ Come out to my lawn, we are waiting for you lazybums” Arman in his usual heavy tone. Ahmed knew why Arman was

171

The Riparian Neighbours

pissed off, Amarjit that evening in the car has told him that Arman did like any of the boys talking to his sister. He was over-protective. Even if somebody would go to his house asking for him, he would resent that. The boys that evening prepared a small comfortable place for the litter next to the garage. Each one contributed something. Arman bought some old blanket, Pintu brought a basket, Ahmed and Arman’s driver got some wooden planks used for packaging to make a small house for their Canines. The house was placed in the shade of the gargae roof. The bicycles belonging to Arman and his sister were parked there. This was also a small passage with a temporary door making access to the lawn from other end where Pintu and his family lived. They were also tenants at the ground floor. This was the only place which was acceptable to Mrs.Kabbani who was not a Canine patron by any standards. It was Mrs.Kabbani whose permission was indispensable for such things. A strict Landlord she was . Once the boys plucked the cherries from her orchards woithout informing her gardener, the same evening she knew someone has plucked the cherries. The gardener was severely reprimanded for his lapse. The boys sympathetic to the gardener, admitted the same to Arman. He asked them to keep shut for his mother would froget it all in day or otwo. Else 172

The Riparian Neighbours

one would be the target of her anger and angst. The lady could be cantankerous sometimes. Her moods had many faces, she could misbehave and insult anybody, so people with experience were cautious; when in generous mood. Ahmed’s mother found her a different woman, she never misbehaved or talked ill with her. However it was Arasta who was friendly with Ahmed’s mother, Uzma. Uzma found that it was Arasta who was popular of Kabbani women. Arasta was active in neighbourhood welfare schemes. She made her Grand-father sanction proper sanitation and road facilities for their colony. The Association of the Bungalow owners felicitated the young girl for her efforts. Arasta was also involved with the Boat-people, the shikarawalas, at the nearby jhelum river banks. The day Prime Minister came, she led her school delegation, explaining their intervention project with the shikarawalas. The intervention program was generating awareness in this class about hygiene and literacy. Very often the young children would not have the opportunity at the school. The health of the young girls was also the topic. Shashi’s mother who headed the nearby District Hospital, was a special invitee to this project. The Prime Minister was impressed and praised the convent for the successful young Indian women they 173

The Riparian Neighbours

were producing in their institution. The Presnetation Convent school was culture in itself. So were many other boys and Coed schools, There was a chance that Ahmed and his brothera nd sister would have to study here. Their father was assigned a project which would not be completed for another five years. It was some new roads and building of small power stations in the remote places of the valley and also the Ladakh division. However their father wanted them to continue their education in Delhi. He was of the view that the facilities and opportunities there were not a match. The scene at the higher education was still unclear. Bilqis in two years would join college. Howevere what Saghir their father never told anybody was his fears about the stability in the region. Any day in the news agitation on Azadi or arrest of some militants would be there. Though Srinagar was somewhat safe and peaceful, however the threats to those engineers working in the Power stations, which included some Russian and French was very serious in itself. There was very heavy presence of the Central intelligence and also security forces to protect the key infrastructure installations in the State. The local police was neither equipped nor trained to handle any of the anti-insurgent measures. However this policy 174

The Riparian Neighbours

would soon collapse and a state of anarchy befell on the people of the State. An era of political murders, pillage, loot and rampage would unleash in the State, taking heavy toll sociologically and economically speaking. There would be the threat to the same Convent school by the extremist movement. The nearby paddy fields to the school would become the dumping grounds for those murdered by the extremists. Saghir has faced kidnappings and the threats when working in North-eastern regions, his role in War with Pakistan, convinced him further of the

bleak future for the state. He didn’t want his children to be caught in the political cross-fire of ‘Me too policy’. At the end of the Sports festival Arasta took Uzma and her family to shop at the Silk factory nearby where her two friends Nudrat and Nafis lived . They were sisters. As usual Arasta was the best athlete of the Sports event which consisted of many girls school in Srinagar and nearby. These were district rounds. Shashi was adjudged second best athlete. Ahmed thought they were strange set of friends as they were equally rivals. Shashi, Arasta, took their bicycles along. Ahmed, Saif, Bilqis and Usamamh their mother, 175

The Riparian Neighbours

Nafis and Nudrat walked ahead of the two. After walking for twenty minutes, they all took a small forest road which went down the main road which was built on the embankment next to Jhelum river. There was almost invisible pillars marking the entrance to the Silk factory, there was a small board , all rusted, paint peeling off which read ‘Cooperative Silk factory’, this was all one could read. The rest was gone. The board hung on one of the posts which marked the entry. There were dried up tyre tracks which were visible , there was plentiful and rich vegetation which sprouted up soon. But for the track it was impossible to know your way to the factory. Nudrat and Nafis playfully walked ahead the rest on the small growth of grass which lay between the tracks. “Our house is located before the factory…, if papa is there then we can straight away go the factory it closes in an hour”. Nudrat, the elder of the two and class mate of Arasta spoke without looking back at those walking behind her. Both Nudrat and Nafis looked similar in appearance and also in their behaviour as well. Very easy going, calm in their attitude, they were not typically aggressive as their other friends Shahi and Arasta were. Somewhat less than go-getter and more of conventional types. Although they carried great sense of humour and knew lot of jokes. The two 176

The Riparian Neighbours

sisters were good at practical jokes, sometimes they did not even spare their own teachers and friends. As they walked, deep into the woods. Their nostrils were filled with soft smell , it was typical of the woods of Pine an fir, although there was some Eucalyptus too. The CMarinar trees were omnipresent , as they were the typical vegetation of the valley for many years now. There were some langurs which were perched on the top of the trees and shouted as well. This typical variety of monkeys(Change to species)* .This typical langur was getting more extinct and rare for ebeing hunted. The valley was equally rich in the variety of sheep and goats. The pushmina goats were found at higher altitudes, so were the wild goats. These wild goats were also present in Dachigam sanctuary. After walking for another 500 yards from the main entrance. There was an old house with colonial architecture. It appeared to be built more as castle, than as a house. Although it was not very big. It must be spread around half an acre or so. There was another small house adjacent to it. This was the place where the Deputy General Manager resided. The house was empty. At the very first glance it look deserted and haunted as well. Some more structures could be seen in the thick foliage. This was another colony housing some 177

The Riparian Neighbours

private bungalows. Interestingly many of these Bungalows belonged to the non-Kashmiris, who could purchase the land/building in the valley on lease alone. All the top hotels and hospitality business managed and run in Corporate fashion belonged to the people who are not Kashmiris. It measn that Kashmiris had very little experience in organised business activity. This meant that the government had to be active in putting industries which could be of Kashmiri origin. Although this proved to be more of misnomer than a fiscal utility concept. This was soon evident to Uzmaa and her family who could see that the Silk factory was more in to breeding cocoons than production of silk. The unit looked old and deserted. Some yarn was being extracted and dyed into raw silk. Here at the factory substitute for Chinese silk was being prepared. Although this State initiated sericulture did not seem to be popular even with their own employees. Such a waste of efforts they thought. The Planning board would release the finds much after the demand has been made. This made them loose the competitive edge. It was not that there were many players in the silk industry or that the sericulture was thriving in Indian populace. It was the smuggled chinese silk of different varities that was impossible to beat by these state-run factories be here in Kashmir, be 178

The Riparian Neighbours

it other states in South India. “ Assalam-oalaikum” greeted the middle-aged man who wearing shirt and trousers with a sweater which was buttoned up. He had small beard which was typical in Kashmir, his hair greying. “this is Papa..” As Nudrat and others echoed the greeting in return “walaikum assalam”. “Please come inside , this way..” He showed the room adjacent to the front door. The house had a palatial entrance with a lobby which opened in different rooms. The lobby was laid by the woven plain carper with small decorative plants, all along the lobby with uniform spaces between them. They were placed in the local pottery. The lobby was well lit. The room was the main lounge which was very large and had number of sofas in different arrangements, many centre tables as well. There were silk carpets on the floor of the room. The walls were adorned by the Pine fruits, some hunting trophies and Tiger skin , the sofa where the Arasta and others sat, next to the fireplace and the chital skins adorend the back of the sofas, One culd feel the soft hairs of the dead chital. The white spots on the Deer skin were evident very clearly. The hide seem to be wellpreserved and cleaned from time to time. One could keep these hides if there was necessary licence issued by the forest department or the local officer of the area authorised under the relevant statute. The fire-place was lit up. It 179

The Riparian Neighbours

seem that Nudrat has informed her parents of the visit. The Butts as they were known popularly amongst the friends, their surname. “they live in great luxury..” Shashi “..O, you mean you have never been to their house..” Bilqis while others looked around the room. “No , they never invited me…”. “ she is cynical sometimes and talks like that…” Arasta chipped in, she twiched Shashi’s thigh who sighed. “ No I am saying the correct thing , you cant prevent the truth from happening.” “ Alright you came today uninvited, you could have opted the same other times” Arasta qucikly rejoined Shashi. “ I am not saying that the girls are not nice or that they are not my friends, it is just that they never invited me…” . A man wearing grey ferin and Black shalwar entered with tray in his hands. Behind him was the lady of the house. This was Mrs.Butt, she appeared to be a rustic woman, who wore the traditional head gear which was of silk finely embroidered , deep blue in color , she wore a firan and shalwar. Her ear rings were very large in gold and she wore some silver thick bracelet. Her ears were pierced all through the ear. There were small gold rings which made her looks. She greeted everyone present and embraced Uzma and blessed the girls and the boys. The man with the tray has brought some Kahwa for the guests. Another man who was walking just 180

The Riparian Neighbours

behind her had a small basket like thing in his hand which he placed before Mrs.Butt . She very gent;y whi;le talking to Uzma lifted the side of here firan and slid the small basket inside. Here arms also inside. Ahmed and his brother watched it all silently while the girls ended chirping. Ahmed was seated on the sofa next where his mother and Mrs.Butt were placed. The girls were perched on the sofas in front. Then Nudrat walked in and asked the girls to come inside the house. “ Saifooo would you like to come along” Nudrat Saif simply got up and held her hand and started walk out o the room with her. “this boy will feel bored, take him along too” Mrs Butt was referring to Ahmed. “Yes, yes, right now we are going to my room, we will take him when we go outside”. The man with the tray who was waiting at the other end of the room, picked up the kahwa bowls which were meant for the girls and went out of the room. Ahmed was surprised at the efficiency of the man. The man Mrs.Butt told was in the Army but was retired for sustaining injuries making him unfit for serving Army. The man was from the same village as theirs Mrs Butt told Uzma. “Are these from the factory” Uzma pointed to the Carpet. “No factory only makes yarn and breeds cocoon…”, At this point Mr.Butt entered, who stopped at the door and looked back, said something in Kashmiri and 181

The Riparian Neighbours

walked in. everybod looked at the door. Mrs.Butt also said something in Kashmiri and then faced Uzma. Mr. Butt also sat in the front next to Ahmed. “ so you go to school, still having summer vacations” Uzma looked at them and then continued her conversation. Ahmed sat straight as he sat resting low on the back. “Amm…, its like this, we went to Pakistan in the month of March and came back later then we intended to , we have been here for almost a month or more. Now our father asked us to visit Leh, where he is currently posted, so we are overstaying by fortnight or so.” “…so your father was posted here in Srinagar”, “ he is the Advisor to the State government on building Roads and Dams, may be some more of civil engineering projects, my mother knows more…”. Uzma who was over hearing the two, once again turned towards the two. “ she is Saghir Khan’s wife, don’t you remember meeting him, he was with the chief Minister at the inaugration of breeding center or lab whatever you call it “. “ Of course I remember him and why not?” Mr. Butt hastily added. He looked at the old Wall clock in front, as it struck Four, “ so sister, Arasta tells me that you wish to see the factory and shop here, but then we must visit it for we close in the afternoon at 4.30 sharp. Our workers come from far away places. Although we provide them the 182

The Riparian Neighbours

transport, yet some of them have to walk from the last point.” They got up and started to walk towards the factory, Mr.Butt continued, as they tread a narrow forest pathway. “…In any case it is not safe for employees travelling late at night. This silence is deafening, Saghir saheb is right in his assessment”. “Oh really, he never mentioned this to me, may he never had the time, he is so busy…” Uzma looking worried for a while. “ O I am sorry if I scared you, it is just that when ver we meet people like you, one can talk freely and honestly..” “anyway what is the point in hiding from the situation…” Mrs.Butt. She seemed to be upright and straight-froward person, with little words. She talked simple things, educated till school, but appeared well conversant with the events happening around. She told Uzma her fondness for news and journalists. “my wife is very happy to meet women like you, who are creating name and place for themselves in the world dominated by men” Mr. Butt spoke withh little smile, Mrs. Butt smiled and said “ of course, it is not easy for women…I want my daughters to be someone, May Allah bless them with virtues ! “ “Amen ..!” Said Uzma. “that is my mother, there…” Mrs.Butt pointed to the Old but strongly-built lady who was plucking some vegetables. This was the kitchen garden which was situated next 183

The Riparian Neighbours

to the factory building. Two other figures stood along with the old lady. One was Saif and another was small girl wearing wollen clothes. It was getting cold . The sky was barely visible, as the branches of the tall trees formed a thick screen. The factory did not have any entrance or boundary marked. Two huge Iron doors opened into the dim lit room. Ahmed walking slowly at the end of the three entered the room last. “This the cocoon breeding room, this is dim lit for this reason, you need to have dark-rooms, we feed them mulberries, the trees of which are grown in plenty in our compound…” Mr.Butt said something in Kashmiri to the man who was supervsing the whole process. The man left. “ We have developed a technique with the

help of the institute in Hyderabad57”. He stopped and pointed it to the cocoons spitting the yarn. “..Here we are trying to culture the cocoons in artificial surroundings which would cut the loss of yarn and also the breeding of cocoons.” He was referring to the structure which was that similar in the vineyard, it had huge spaces in between. 57 Capital of South Indian state of Andhra Pradesh 184

The Riparian Neighbours

The structure also had threads to which hanged the leaves with small bowls containing the mulberries, all fresh. They went further to the section weher the reserch in breeding program was going on. It wasn’t impressive, although massisve in terms of size and rooms with huge ceilings. All the areas were dimly lit. Their guide Mr. Butt who was the Chief General Manager, explained to be part of cocoon habits. So the factory cocooned the cocoons. Their was a small shop which read, factory price. As the factory goods were low taxed and free of other charges/taxes, so the goods prices here was comparatively low. Income from Sericulture was exempted from number of taxes, it was considered o be that of Agrarian activity beneficil to the small and marginal farmer .More so the weavers. The translation of the letter and spirit was very rare for all such schemes, although there were some exceptions. At the shop the girls also joined them. Most of the goods in the factory shop was the spun silk cloth, which was from the loom at the factory. Raw silk and the yarn was also available. Next to the shop was a godown and a wholesale center. Uzma bought some clothes for here and her children. This was cheap but was not as good as the imported Chinese silk. The fineness was missing. They 185

The Riparian Neighbours

also bought some scarfs and caravt for men. Arasta bought a set of handkerchiefs. She asked the sales lady to pack it into two packets, two in each. “Uncle I am buying it on credit, tomorrow I shall give it to Nudrat” Arasta spoke as she checked the pocket of her Scottish skirt. Mr.Butt simply nodded and waved his hand, he meant its OK. “Oh its 5.30, we didn’t realize the time” Uzma spoke surprised as she casually glance at her watch.. “Well you need an hour or so to just see the things, if you are interested in understanding it you still need some three hours in all. It is very interesting to watch the cocoons, how they spin and how the same is converted onto the yarn.” Mr.Butt poised , as they all walked back towards his house. This time they took a different route . There was a grassy path which went just round the boundary walls of the factory. It was getting dark, as dusk fell. A s feeble notes of azaan reached the woods. The muezzin called for the dusk prayers. “ Oh you can hear the azaan here. There is no mosque in our area, or if there is one, perhaps the speakers are not that strong”, said Ahmed; he continued, “…actually we have been here for almost a month, but I never heard the azaan. Our driver Hamid took us each time for our Friday prayers at the mosque in Lal chowk.” They eneterd the house and walked 186

The Riparian Neighbours

passed the room where they all sat earlier. This time though they sat in the smaller room, whoich the family lounge , it had TV set. a colour one which was a rarity. Colour Telkevision broadcast was not available. So why did they have one, it was PTV and its programs which were broadcast in colour that many in Kashmir had colour televisions. These colour televisions were also status symbol for the plutocracy in the valley. In this was seated the same old lady, who had some deep wrinkles at the forehead and on the side of her eyes. Saif and on small girl were playing with the toys sitting next to her on a Diwan. The old lady was peeling and cutting the fresh vegetables she plucked fom the kitchen garden, Mrs Butt explained who these people were in Kashmiri. Uzma went close to her for the blessings. It was common for the young to seek blessings from the elders. It was part of regular social mannerisms. This was true irrespective of religion or caste. It was much like the same as serving water to the guest in India. It is one of the oldest tradition, with origins known to be in the Buddhist traditions. The monks would serve their guests and visitors a glass of water first. The hot and humid climate year round made the people adopt hospitality, with a definite utility. Water which was the origin of many wars and boundary dispute is symbol of courtesy in Indian 187

The Riparian Neighbours

masses. The riparian neighbours of South Asia were precisely the good example of water and war. The nascent states bore the boundaries which were measured on the basis of watersheds. The surveyors and the law enforcing tehs ame became the tedious part of the political history. The military forces tried to redraw the political boundaries, many times burning themselves to desperation. The uncertainity gripped the poor and the privileged with slight difference on occassions of crisis. “you must dine with us oh good lady”, Arasta translated from Kashmiri what the old lady said. The old lady only spoke and understood Kashmiri language. Nudrat’s grand mother was eighty years old, yet she was very active for her age, now a widow and alone she lived in the village near Srinagar. However ever since Nudrat’s grand-father passed away last year she lived with Mrs.Butt and her son in law. Mrs Butt who had gone to some other room, overhearing repeated the invitation. Usmah politely refused saying “ their father is due to call at around 8.00pm tonight , its important as we cant call him. He calls from an Army facility.” “ Oh in that case I shall no insist, but tell us when it would be suitable for you people to have dinner with us.” Mrs Butt spoke as she lifted the 188

The Riparian Neighbours

peeled and nicely cut vegetables and gave it to the man who was standing near the sofa. She spoke to him in Kashmiri. A young woman served them all tea and pastries. She was Mrs Butt’s cousin and was employed in the factory itself. The old lady was a freedom fighter, with Sheikh Abdullah and his party. She belonged to a village which was completely burned down by the British-backed Maharajah’s forces. “my village” she had a denture placed , so the hiss sound, came every time she spoke, “ was one of those where even four-olds sang songs of freedom and struggle against the colonial yoke and Maharajah’s tyranny. “But then what is the present struggle all about ?” Uzma asked as Mrs.Butt watched the two, speaking through young translator Arasta ,she gently sipped her tea. “ this I cant say, I am no longer political, whatever I can say, is what I read from newspapers” , old-lady mused. There was a silence , the old lady broke it “ this may have something to do which we did not solve then, the “plebiscite” should have been done, as promised” she paused and looked up, she glanced at everyone, then sat straight and turned towards Uzma “the jailing of our leader and dismissal of the governments after governments and bad elections, all destroyed any chance of union with Indian republic” Uzma was 189

The Riparian Neighbours

surprised at the old lady’s precise analysis. “ you contested any elections?”, everybody else in the room listened to the grand-mother. Saif and little girl also stopped playing. The two sat on either side of the old-lady. “ Well, I contested two election, women are respected here. I won both the elections, I saw to it that there was no rigging, it was tough, rival party wanted me to loose, The Central forces also did not help us. But then I told you my village is exceptionally courageous and outsatnding. Lot of camaraderie, one big family, so we had our way, people voted and saw the ballot boxes were sealed and not changed on their way.” She sipped her tea and said in a low voice, brooding and contemplating “ the whole of Kashmir was not that lucky”. “ I wish to interview for my newspaper” Uzma spoke in excited tone “ why you are a journalist ?” Lady asked, she then quickly added “ there is nothing interesting about me to write, in any case Kashmiris are of no interest to Indians” “No I am sure if more of newspapers cover Kashmir, they will understand Kashmiris, there is need to get acquainted with each other” Uzma, while shifting through her purse, looking for her pen and notepad. She also took out the visiting card box, which was of Chinese make and gold-plated. “This is my card” Uzma handed the same to 190

The Riparian Neighbours

Mrs.Butt . The old lady was either in pensive mood all through the narration or was expression less. She smiled very little. Although she was very calm and confident, given the fact, an illiterate. Sometimes exposure and ability, take care of shortcomings. She was the first generation leadership, which were good at grassroot contacts, because of which they continued to be good organizer of support to their party and its agenda. “ I shall meet you some other time say tomorrow or day after….” Uzma , as she scribbled something on the Notepad in Urdu. “But do you think that you have the second generation of leadership ?…”, “No I don’t think, it will be sometime before we have the leadership who have the grass-root and down to earth approach.”, “what about the militant leadership like JKLF and others” “Oh they have their own agenda, they might succeed, if the Indian government does not deliver its promise on development. My village still doesn’t have many pucca58 houses , same stone and wood .Each winters there is no electricity and water. The telephones go dead. To get treatment the PHC doctors are not available during the winters” she took a deep breadth as she spoke non-stop. The old lady spoke with eloquence and 58 cemented or modern arhitecture 191

The Riparian Neighbours

with great precision. The analysis was of impartial nature of the circumstances around. The prophecy she made would also look probable to any avid political watcher. It grew darker as the leaves ruffled and the tall trunks of Pine and Fir and other decidous trees turned into slender silhouttes. The brooding old lady in these woods, was the perfect mixture of natural elements of contemplation and solitude. Suddenly there was a loud cloud burst, surprising all those inside the house. The sky was clear, and now it seemed to rain any moment. “I think we must leave immediately, as it is getting late and now this rain, none of our servants at home…..” Uzma hurriely kept her notebook and pen in her purse. “But how will you goo back”, Mrs Butt, “Oh auntie its is not that far, some 15 minutes” Arasta spoke. “No it might rain,…hmmm Nudrat get Noore, if you get wet here, may fall ill, God forbid” Mrs Butt also got up, and asked her guests to wait. There was the Car outside waiting for them. This was the official car, called Ambassador a copy of original Morris. So when the colonial masters left , the new masters christened this as the official car. Although but for the design nothing was English about it. Although the monopoly in the car market continued depsite some nut and bolt technology , this car had. It 192

The Riparian Neighbours

succeeded the giant American Cars which were hardly acclimatised to the Indian roads and there dimensions. Well the Car revolution was hardly part of the scheme, although it performance was better than east German Traby59.There was hardly any change in the design and engine barring a few here and there. The former Prime Ministers’ so wanted to build an Indian Car and an empire aping and inspired by some Korean and Japanese giants who proved themselves in the same decade. The peoples car at an affordable price in India for the growing middle-class. Uzma and many others in her circle would often hope to own the Japanese car. Other cars were cumbersome and poor on performances. Moreover this Desai government was keen on making the left-over MNCs leave the country. The poor MNCs shifted their small operations to other South Asian places. Undaunted like those foreign journalists who were asked to leave during the Emergency era , they too were hopeful of return. However as the fate of the populace would have it the return was slated after whole decade of indignation. It began to rain lightly as Uzma her three children, Arasta and Shashi sat in the car and bid good-bye. This was the latest in the series called Mark 4. The 59 erstwhile East German car, the wait-in period was three years and it was rationed. 193

The Riparian Neighbours

diesel version was awaited as the petrol was getting expensive to maintain these petrolguzzling giants. In the West the move for fuelefficient cars was not catching up with the State machinery, as the State was the largest fleetowner here in India. Pakistan the riparian state was different, with people owning cars, as bicycles in India. It was like anybody and somebody can own a car. As the Car moved out of the main entrance which was marked by those dilapidated pillars and climbed on to the main road which ran parallel to the River Jhelum, The Car first turned right but then the occupants decided that Shashi too had to be dropped at her home. Alone would not be a responsible idea. The Car stopped and took a U-turn, as it sped towards the Maren Mohalla60. The car stopped near double storey house. It was raining heavily, in less than fifteen minuets of heavy down pour the dark streets, were flooded. The drains here were choked all over the town. The roads were narrow in this area. “well we’ve been never here” Ahmed broke the silence, as Shashi prepared to get off the Car. She politely asked to come inside. Uzma sought to be excused for the day and promised to be at her house some other time. The vizer of the Car 60 Urdu for cluster of residential houses/colony. 194

The Riparian Neighbours

broke-down, so the driver had to drive very slowly and clean it, by protruding his out from the car window on to the wind-screen. The mist inside was wiped again and again by a cloth. It took them more than an hour to reach their house, to what would have been a twenty minutes journey. The streets at Ahmed’s end of the big house of Arasta were also flooded. This end fell into different council zone. So they first went to the end where Arasta lived. “ Auntie can itake Bilqis along, it is all very lonely in the house, it looks too empty after the departure of Hunza and her family” “Ok, but Bilqis when you want to come home phone Ahmed” Ahmed seated in front did not react. He just looked towards his left, as Arasta and Bilqis alighted. A chowkidar61 rushed form inside the gate with an umbrella, he was wearing a rain coat and rubber shoes. The family then reached home, still raining hard . They had the Car parked right at the door steps, as the entire street was flooded with knee-deep water. The water got logged more as the there was an open drain which carreid the storm water. This was choked at number of places. It was intimidating site, as if the house would get flooded. However , as they went 61 Urdu for gatekeeper. 195

The Riparian Neighbours

inside, the higher level of the house prevented it getting flooded. Uzma quickly opened the padlock at the entrance door of the house, as the phone was ringing. By the time she switched on the lamp, it stopped ringing. “We shouldn’t have stayed so long with the rains coming…” Uzma with worried looks as she unlocked the other rooms and switched the lamps. From the master bed-room she called Saif and asked Ahmed to lit the fire-place , for it would make the interiors comfortable with the temperatures dropping fast. Even otherwise the night temperature would always hover around 23-24`C. Saif was half asleep by the time they reached home. Ahmed went inside the kitchen and lit the gas-burner, and kept the utensils which contained the food on it. There was hardly any need of refrigerators which was quite unlike Delhi. Ahmed then switched on Television. This carried the news of CMLA in Pakistan was contemplating to hang the incarcerated former Prime Minister whom he served. Uzma rushed out of her room to hear it all. Ahmed looked back and then both watched with glued attention. The State channel which was broadcasting the news started to show some clippings on the rise and fall of the imprisoned Prime Minister. It also carried of the befallen executive head’s visit and signing of the peace accord with Indian Prime Minster who lost 196

The Riparian Neighbours

power to the strength of electorate. One could see the daughter of the befallen Prime Minister, the focus shifted as the daughter was now active in politics and was heading the political fiefdom. Politics in this society was still a privileged center, the struggle for true plebian representation was getting evident and ominous on the other side of the Sindh river62. The daughter was slightly more than a sophomore in crude realdom of fluid politics. “Her charming looks cannot help the MRD…she needs more than simple courage to handle this machismo (referred to CMLA)63” Uzma spoke, as she leaned at the wall, Ahmed silently watched the news. The phone once again rang. “put down the volume…”, Uzma, Ahmed quickly switched it off. Uzma greeted the caller, with salaam, yes we went to Mr.Butts place, the phone was ringing as I was openeing the lock at the entrance. It stopped ringing as I reached it…..So what is the 62 River Indus, from which the name India is derived by Arabs and British, Bronze-age civilization thrived at the plains of this river which travels from CMarina, through Glaciers of Upper Siachen, cutting across the Mountain Ranges, in India and then to Pakistan, finally merges in Arabian Sea, near Karachi, such is the Riparian value. 63 He very often boasted his stint at Sandhurst. 197

The Riparian Neighbours

program, ….you are calling from there…”, Ahmed stood next to his mother, in between she asked Ahmed to lower the gas flame . Ahmed went to the kitchen, Uzma just hummed, as she listened patiently to the caller. This was her husband. “in your drawer….” “Ok, Ok, … Ahmed, Ahmed” she called as she held the receiver to her ear drawing the mouthpiece slightly away from her face. Ahmed walked quickly towards her mother, “look inside the drawer”, She pointed to the medium-sized study table which had a wooden revolving chair .The table had carvings at its edges, these were peculiar handicraft table. Ahmed pulled the single drawer, which the table had at the left, it was of walnut finish and wood. Ahmed then looked at his mother , “There must a cheque book in a white envelope”, Ahmed shuffled through the drawere pulled it more outside and saw a white envelope, a he opened it, “yes there is one, should I get it there”, Uzma gestured with show it to her. “ It says thirty thousand rupees….” , it costs three-four thousand by Air from here…” Ahmed pulled the chair for here mother from the single chair which were lying on the other end of the large sitting room. Usmaham pulled it still neare and sat on it. Ahmed stood right behind here leaning on the back-rest of the chair. The head-rest of the chair 198

The Riparian Neighbours

was carved much the same in pattern as that of the edges of the study Table. “So today is Wednesday,…no it’s a daily flight, but its very heavily booked. There is a back-log of travellers, for the flight each time is unable to land at the Leh Airport due to bad weather”. She paused , as she listend to here husband “ Very well then I will ask Mr.Kaul to arrange it all for us. He has been regularly calling us, yesterday they have come to our house, we ate dinner together.” Mr.Kaul was the senior officer at Saghir’s office in the Secratariat, he was nearing retirement, he wanted to be a Deputy Secretary in the ministry, but each time he failed to win the promotion. The man was nice and active in the Secratariat Union, which prevented him from doing any work on his desk. His work was being done by others. May be he was one of those who enjoyed that way. At number of times he asked Mrs.Khan to put a word across Saghir saheb for promotion. Although the man was too sincere to help Uzma and her kids, than for the sake of appeasement or any rewards in return. His children were in USA, all three were Doctors there. He owned a palatial house in the vicinity, he was moderately rich. As Ahmed spoke to his father on the phone his mother went inside and came out with a telephone diary in her hand , she went in side the kitchen, and started to stir the large 199

The Riparian Neighbours

spoon in the cooking Utensil . She opened the tap sand washed few plates and glasses for the dinner. The Kitchen was next to the sitting room, with the pantry window, the door was on the other side which opened into small space which was a lobby for the house. This place was partitioned by the Plastic curtains. As Ahmed hanged up the telephone, somebody rang the bell, Ahmed switched on the verandah bulb and saw Bilqis with man standing behind her holding an umbrella, it was still raining though mildly. “Abbu just called” Bilqis thanked the man standing right behind her. It was the chowkidar, one of the longtime servant of Kabbanis. He held many secrets and knew all about Kabbanis. He was Mrs.Kabbani close confidante. The man was responsible for all the news about the activities of the children and Ahmed in particular ever since Hunza’s birthday. He was too polite to be ignored by the visitors to Kabbanis, who rewarded him lavishly by the tips or the bakshish. Bilqis walking into the kitchen’s direction asked happily as she walked passed Ahmed, “so when do we get to meet him ?”, “Ask ammi , I think in two days time” Uzma her mother coming out of the same and went to the side table where the phone was kept. She overheard the two “ yes may be , provided tickets are also arranged. She was calling up Mr.Kaul 200

The Riparian Neighbours

and whom she asked the favour to arrange for their travel, that the family wanted the bookings three days after on flight to Leh from Sirnagar. The voice on the other hand asked about Saghir and assured the family about the reservation and their journey. “No thanks we have arranged the other things, some shopping, tomorrow, just their clothings, we don’t have the warm ones….Please send the Car in the evening, if possible,” she paused and listened intently as she cleared some dust on the granite top of the side-table with her fingers. “that would be nice, say my regards to your Begum(wife) please !, khuda hafiz”. She disconnected the call, “Bilqis, get the dinner”, she spoke loudly as she dialed the number, “yes madam, Delhi number is 234567,” she hanged up, and sat on the chair lying there. “lets us see what has become of poor Mehnaz and Sahil, she spoke jocularly as both Ahmed and Bilqis smilingly looked at their mother. The phone rang once again. “yes Madam, …Ok I am holding the line, the bell is ringing,” Uzma spoke to Ahmed and Bilqis who were now seated at the Dining table. “helllllo...” she said it long way with her mouth slightly open as is the case when one is overjoyed. “Mehnazu” she affectionately called the on e at the other end. Ahmed started to pour food into his plate, Bilqis looked at him, but kept quiet. The two changed their behaviour ever since Hunza’s birthday, perhaps they were 201

The Riparian Neighbours

growing and their rival status was receding. Moreover Ahmed as the man in the house, felt more and more responsible. As their talked on phone. Ahmed spoke, with his eyes fixed on the chicken curry bowl, “ I am feeling very hungry…” and he continued with the food. Bilqis picked cucumber from the salad plate, and walked towards the phone. “here, talk to Bilqis”, Bilqis greeted with a salaam and started tete a tete. Uzma picked her diary and got up the chair, she gently patted Bilqis to sit on chair. “yes my son what are you having, you want something other than this, …want some slice or any other thing… I couldn’t cook anything fresh for the dinner” Usmah also sat down and satrted to pour food into her plate. She then kept some mixed salad of tomato, cucumber, beet-root, in Ahmed s plate “you must make a habit to eat this raw, its good for health and is digestive in value.” Ahmed sat quiet and ate the salad, as if saying alright it makes sense. Uzma teased Ahmed by pushing his elbow with hers, Ahmed looked up at his mother and smiled. “I don’t want my son to look glum,” she knew what Arasta has told Ahmed but could’nt get the time to talk to her son. Bilqis informed her all. She tried to draw him into a conversation. The mother and son shared a very close relationship, they were very candid. Uzma took extra care that 202

The Riparian Neighbours

her son grows up as a creative minded person. She always bought him books and took him on such occasion and places where the creative men and works were available. She was the mother who would not only nurse but also groom her children. She knew Bilqis would one day become a Medicine woman or a scientist, she excelled in Science and had lots of patience which one would need to be a Doctor or in research. Bilqis drew natural flair for science. Ahmed although still young for the career direction, he too was a keen observer of Nature, much like his uncles was fond of hunting and Bird-watching. He would become Wild-life conservationist or one who would sustain his living out of the same. Ahmed read lot of books on Indian wild-life. He was quite update on things like project tiger and coming up of sanctuaries, reserves and the problems they faced. More recently he bought on expensive professional camera for wild-life photography. Uzma was a modern mother who wanted her children to be focussed and successful . Her children though naturally imbibed the honesty and values from their father who was known for his integrity. “Ahmed what became of your photographs which you took at Dachigam reserve ?” as she took a bite, chewed it then continued “… 203

The Riparian Neighbours

Mehnaz”, the woman she spoke on telephone, her cousin who was living in their home at Delhi, they were on a honeymoon. Bilqis was still talking to Mehnaz on phone, as the two sat on the table.“…and Sahil would be going back to the Bird sanctuary at Bharatpur, we can go there in your autumn vacations, you can take more photographs there”. Ahmed using his left hand lifted the transparent jug of crystal ware with its small handle to grip, the protrusion looked too frail to sustain the weight of the Jar when full to the brink. He poured some water first into hers and his own glass. It was boiled as the water was rich in minerals and salts as well, the water treatment facilities were hardly functional. Kidney and Gallstones were common among the inhabitants and also those who would stay for long. Saghir their father was lucky some time back to have pass the stones through urinal passage. Bilqis also joined the mother and son, Ahmed was eating some apricot and apple pudding, which they purchased form the shop last evening. The pastry shop in more than fortyfive days of their visit, did not prepare the Pineapple pastry that evening, on account of the labour unrest. There was some labour agitation in the whole valley for better wages and deals for the people who toiled in the unorganized sector 204

The Riparian Neighbours

in the state. It was bit unusual spectacle which the left-wingers managed here. Although only local newspapers carried it , the national television was oblivious. Many things were taboo at State-run small television network. “ why Bilqis , how about our young Salim Alis’ 64 photo exhibition this monsoon in Delhi” she winked at Bilqis, as if asking her to help him pep up. “ yes of course ,some of them are excellent, the timing, effect of sun light, the clouds and and those Deers, especially the fawns, which jumped around everywhere…, we must visit Midhat auntie’s house Ammi”. Uzma gave her stern looks, she wanted them to concentrate on Ahmed and only Ahmed. The genteel mother wanted her son to take a clue from her. Sometimes such juxtaposition of thoughts help one decide and overcome the flux of thoughts. That night at the dinner it was decided that a photo exhibition will be arranged and which will be inaugurated by the famous Ornithologist himself.. “Ma…” children would often address Uzma, with affection and choice, “what will Saif have..?…”, “just the milk dear” “ ok lukewarm will do…” “hmmm.”. Bilqis wlaked into the kitchen, as Ahmed and his mother cleared the table . Ahmed then walked into his room. Ever since his father left for the project work, Saif slept with his mother, so Ahmed used to be alone in his room. Ahmeds’ room had a window which a grill a mesh wire 64 He was a famous Indian ornithologist with most authentic; his magnum opus work in three vols on Indian Birds and their kinds. 205

The Riparian Neighbours

as well to keep away flies and mosquitoes. He switched off the lamp and shut the door half. He further drew the curtains. After changing in to his kurta and pyjama , he remembered that he was to offer evening prayers it was 10.45 in the night. He went out to the Bathroom for ablutions. His mother ans sister were already offering sala’t in the sitting room. Bilqis handed the prayer mat to Ahmed who was going into his room. Bilqis would never sleep in her room, she always would lay her bedding on the carpet in the sitting room. Her room was at the secluded end of the house and her window like any other rooms opened into the Orchard. Bilqis used to sleep late and would rise late well past six in the morning. As the windows faced East, Sun would shine fast on hers first. The sitting room would remain dark enough to sleep till seven in the morning. It was a family which started its day with the dawn, Bilqis being the sole exception. Many a times she was reprimanded by her parents and grand-parents alike. It is believed that the women folk must be early risers only then can they get good husbands and rear up their children well. Ahmed offered his evening salaa’t and went to bed. As she snuggled into his blanket, he saw the small opening in his room which opened into the small attic. He lifted the stool lying nearby and kept it on to the bed and climbed, he opened the small latch which was visible. As he tried to open the same , he could feel its weight, it was somewhat jammed to be opened by his 206

The Riparian Neighbours

efforts. He tried to put more pressure on to it, as if defying the gravity. It opened with a gentle jerk, as he tried to open it further its hinges made creeky noise. He quickly came down and lay still in his bed, lest somebody would wake up. Since Bilqis was in the sitting room, with dark silence around, she could hear it. It was her habit to get up and check up things for herself. He then stepped out of the bed with the stool still lying on top of it, walking on his toes, he peeped out. Bilqis his siter was asleep, who probably forgot to switch off the study lamp which was placed next to her pillow. Ahmed switched on the night lamp and kept the lamp on the study table after switching it off. The whole room glowed with red lamp, as id in a ‘Dark room’. Ahmed checked the main door, liofted the curtains and peeped out of the same. The sky was suddenly clear and it was under moon-spell. As Ahmed drew the curtain back, he was lit up with his prankish idea, why not leave the curtains open. Bilqis would be furious with a well-lit room in the early hours of the morning. However, today he was in sober mood, he smiled to himself, glanced at his sister who was deep asleep, walked to his room on his toes. As he walked on his toes he could feel the soft wool fibers of the carpet tingling his feet. He once again climbed atop and opened it with the force 207

The Riparian Neighbours

of his hand, he could now stand straight, the ceiling was up to his waist. The attic was all moon lit. and the glass panes all washed up by the rains, looked clear. As he pushed himself up with his arms,, seating himself he stood up rubbing his hands gently to clear off the dust which he could feel. He could smell the dusty air inside as he walked on his toes, the ceiling was made of wood but did not make any noise as he walked . From the glass-panes he could see the house where the Kabbanis lived, it was shining silver in the moon light. Although at a distance, still Ahmed could see a curtain flowing in an out of the window, it was the only one, with the lamp on. Ahmed tried to open the Glass pane which was installed in a window with grills although it was bolted and locked from inside. He tried to count the windows, this was the nearest one to the wall. “So she is still awake”, Ahmed said to himself, as he wondered why Arasta was not yet asleep. Then as if a miracle, a figure with hair flowing in the gentle breeze leaned out of it and started to look towards the attic. Ahmed suddenly became conscious thinking that she could see him. Her torso draped in the white night-gown, merged with the lunar settings defying the darkness of Umbra. Ahmed looke around, as he stood with his head slightly bent. The attic was smaller to his height. It was empty, with his toe208

The Riparian Neighbours

marks only visible, something was lying in the dark which lay in the other corner, he couldn’t see it properly. So he walked in its direction, his toe stumbled on the small lid, he tried to regain the balance lest he would fall down from the opening in the ceiling. After regaining hi balance, he walked near the object as he felt it with his toe, it was wooden stool, a small one, which was used in the kitchen by women. He gently stroked it to clear off the dust and blew air from his mouth to clear the top, he turned it upside down lest there would be any spiders. Then he took the same towards the Glass-pane and kept it down, after having looked at it. He sat on it, and watched the White penumbra defying the black magic of stealthy night. He gasped at her sight. Ahmed after long time sat and started to have a feeling which was an internal rage to speak out, to converse, to say it all. He felt this choking feeling each time he had the urge to write. The creativity of the thought made him restive as he was deluged by the flood of words and sentences which in turmoil would be written and erased , this erasing and writing would continue until the chosen words fall in order. Ahmed could feel the heat around hi ears, he tried to wipe the sweat with the bottom of his kurta, and bent both the ears to allow the release of heat and cool them. The figure then stood 209

The Riparian Neighbours

facing his Attic, as in telepathy. Ahmed could not understand this and believe that the same girl is watching his house who reprimanded him not three-four days ago for taking liberty with her. Ahmed spoke few words and dedicated to her frialty. He named it “Umbra”, Next day he knew what he would do. Ahmed came down and jotted down the poem, inside his blanket, using his penlight torch. He cleared the dust off his clothes and feet and went to sleep. Suddenly Ahmed was elated and back to his own self. He knew he was in command of the situation here. Next day Ahmed decided to visit her during the lunchbreak. As Ahmed was walking towards Arasta’s school, at a distance he could see a familiar looking figure cycling down towards him. He stopped in amazement and joy. “Oh hi Ahmed what are you doing here?” “Oh I was coming to your school, just to tell…you..” he stuttered and tried to draw courage and be flawless. “…I wanted to tell you that we are leaving for Leh in a day or two, depending on the reservation…” “Oh really !,so soon” Arasta couldn’t hide herself. “Ahhh I mean it is a nice place to visit, we also went there last year,” Arasta took her eyes off Ahmed. Ahmed came nearer to her and kept his palm on her left hand, Arasta was taken aback by his boldness, this was the street. Although nobody was there on this street leading to the Banks of 210

The Riparian Neighbours

River Jhelum, just the two of them. Arasta gently slid her hand from his loose grip. “This is my new poem, I wrote it last night” Ahmed looked straight in to her beautiful marble eyes , he continued “Now you are my inspiration”. Arasta climbed down her bicycle and started to walk without saying anything with the piece of paper in her hand. She walked with head down. Ahmed walked just behind her with one hand on her school bag. After walking few steps, Arasta asked Ahmed to walk with her bicycle, as she opened the paper which was of white colour. She began to read, and gradually fell few steps behind, as if she lost her strength to keep pace with Ahmed. She knew she was loosing to Ahmed, yet she was not in tears, nor did she feel any outburst. The poem read as “UMBRA” : In the moon-lit plain The window with curtain Flowing, smelling The aroma, spread Of breeze, the Intoxic extents. …1 You draped in virgin White, laced me with Figures of love, Attraction, which 211

The Riparian Neighbours

Were of fatal extent …2 The dark silhoutte Of lonely me in the Forlorn attic, Blessed by your sight; A vision by moon light Might, when Umbra Shaded the sullen Black for your Virgin white. …3 You shown, You shown as if in bliss, For me. …4 Avaricious me; An immortal vision To mortal self. …5 The two did not talk till they reached the gate of her house. Arasta walked few steps behind Ahmed, her gaze fixed at Ahmed . Ahmed all the way could not dare to look back, he walked looking straight once or twice he looked sideways just to catch glimpse of Arasta. Ahmed could feel the clinging sight of Arasta. Arasta just walked inside the side gate attached to the main gate 212

The Riparian Neighbours

made of wood and with strong brass nail protruding from it. In the olden days these nails would prop up from the massive gates inth Forts and small havelis for protection from the elephants. These elephants were used to pull down the magnificent doors. In Srinagar, there were no elephants nor was this a fort of any King or Nabob. Yet Mrs.Kabbani wanted here entrance to look like a fortified gate. Mrs.Kabbani was very particular about the secure environment inside the walls of her house, as if the inside would ever remain invincible. Ahmed handed over the bicycle to the old chowkidar and started to walk away. The clouds have grown darker , as if to rain, it hrew arker and darker, a strong breeze started to blow across , the giants trees started to swirl as if in gay mood. The green color of the vegetation became more greener, then there was acloud burst. Ahmed looked at the sky and hurriedly took steps towards his house at the other end of the giant compound. He walked some three hundred yards when he heard someone calling from the back, the voice seemd familiar, it was frail and said ‘Ahemd sahib, Ahmed sahib’ . Ahmed about turned towards the voice, he knew why the chowkidar came calling , yet he wanted his ears to hear the same “Arasta bibi, is calling you, it is going to rain, you will get wet” the old man looked twoards the sky. He was holding an umbrella in his han, it was large enough to 213

The Riparian Neighbours

accommodate two. Then came the rain drops as the trees shook their leaves with new resilience and force. The monsoon was here. The old man opened the umbrella and walked a step outside the umbrella cover, behind Ahmed. Ahmed tasked him to walk next to him lest he get drenched. The old man was very elated by this gesture. It appeared how Kabbanis treated their servants, it was very aristocratic and a complete compartmentlisation of treatment for class of humans. Ahmed walked inside the main gate, he has walked down the same number of times, but today was different. However he expected a meeting in the massive hall at the ground floor. This hall was more like a reception hall of any big hotel or guest house . The seating arrangement was very formal. It was not clear why this hall was left with scant furniture and settings. It looked too modest for the affluent like Kabbanis. Especially since they were very particular about their aristocratic appearance. Arasta’s nag was lying on of the sofas. Ahmed walked near to the same sofa. It was getting dark inside with just two lamps lit at the door. Then a door at the far end of the room opened , which lit the Hall . This was Arasta, who asked Ahmed to come inside. Ahmed lifted himself from the comfortable couch. He was very relaxed and confident. This was Ahmed in contrast to the one which people saw in last four-five days, ever since Hunza’s birthday. 214

The Riparian Neighbours

Ahmed entered the room, which was very formal, with sofas and a rocking chair, an Air conditioner. There were just two trophies, panther and an antelope. On the centre table were two glasses of Apple juice and some dry fruits bowls. The glasses were placed very near to each other. Arasta waited at the door and asked smilingly to sit down. She sat very close to Ahmed .So close as if their thighs would touch each others. She was still in her school dress. Ahmed realised that she was wearing some makeup like lipstick, eye liner and a strong perfume, probably “poison”. The whole room was filled by the fine smell. Ahmed was very fond of perfumes. Ahmed knew this was different Arasta, who was willing to kowtow to his wishes. He also thought women-folk are good organizers as well. Somebody as beautiful as hers have to make less efforts to add looks to the settings. It rained heavy lie a storm, the window panes became doused and the droplets made it opaque. It was raining very hard outside. “Ahmed have some juice” She lifted the glass and presented the same to him with one hand below the other holding it. Today Arasta was very respectful with him. Ahmed could sense it all. As if he could read her mind well. Ahmed was always like that, he read people well. Many a times he enchanted and surprised people with his faculty of reading and enumeration of individual. Arasta locked Ahmed’s gaze with her marble eyes, they were of blue-green colour. Her pupil had a black rim encircling the marble finesse. The maroon shade of her 215

The Riparian Neighbours

lipstick was so distinct from her cherry-coloured lips. Ahmed relaxed with his back now resting, Arasta still sitting at the edge faced towards him, as she gently sipped the juice from her glass leaving small impression of lips on the edge of glass. As she lifted the Frenchcrystal bowl, which had walnuts she said “ I liked the poem, and gave a naughty smile, just don’t go on writing on me, there arent many frames” “ I will name my whole collection of poems, someday when it gets published”, Ahmed spoke for the first time, the barrier was gone, their informal tone was back. Ahmed at this point wanted to appreciate her looks, but then he witheld the same, for instinct told him so. “Don’t try to flatter me …” “Well that’s a promise”, “I believe” Arasta took a deep breadth. After a long silence, sipping the juice, Arasta rang the bell and asked the man, to get some more juice for Ahmed. She knew Ahmed liked the same. So she ordered more without asking him. She was already imposing her taste and wishes. Ahmed was enjoying it, every moment of it. “ Ahh your parents and Arman arent home” he hesitatntly asked as Arasta played a cassette on the music system, which he did not notice, as it was so well camouflaged in the deer skin. The gentle notes of a ghazal joined their conversation in background only. Arasta casually replied, “they are upstairs, perhaps asleep” . This made 216

The Riparian Neighbours

Ahmed somewhat uneasy, since Mrs.Kabbani no longer welcomed his presence in her fort. However Ahmed was too brave to breach her domain, in any case it was much supported by her own daughter. Their game was too small to be play daughter aginst the daughter, they were still too young and eager to wait for each other. The whole tradition of majors taking bold steps was well entrnched on this lively couple. Now Arasta has made her willingness too obvious. It was likely to reach her mother and everybody else in the house. The two sat and chatted and achatted til the rain stopped completely. Ahmed and Arasta came out of the room, they could hear the voice of her mother, who however did not come downstairs to make her presence felt by both. They walked out of the hosue and towards the lawn, they saw the pups were asleep, they opened the latch to the door next to the garage and entered the big and wet lawn. Far away some leaves and twigs have fallen on the ground, where the tree were planted in a row, next to the boundary. “you shoes will get wet, I will walk to my house” “ Very well, I hear you are leving for Leh, hope to see you upon your return. Let me say this,” she paused and then looked in front, as if trying to peep into a distant future. “ …I still subscribe the same theory about you, so if you 217

The Riparian Neighbours

are sincere, or you must prove the same” Ahmed withs erious looks looked up, he could see Mrs.Kabbani watching them, there eyes met. Ahmed then looked at Arasta and said “ I wish to marry you, Inshallah, the same will come true, it’s a gentleman’s promise” . Arasta continued without looking at him “ I hope you stick to your words, we will always remain in touch, if you convince me without fail, I am yours forever.” Ahmed looked and blinked with his both eyes, as if in approval. They both turned and walked in their respective directions. Ahmed reached the small door in the orchard which divided the orchard and the house in which they were staying. Ahmed tried to push it open but found that it was bolted from the other side. He jumped up and shouted his sister’s name, who was working in the kitchen . The small door was visible from the kitchen window. The door was all wet and slippery, on many occasions otherwise Ahmed would just climb up the door in the partition wall and jump over it. Bilqis came out with her head covered as it was still raining very lightly. Moreover Ahmed was in a joyous mood, Bilqis could make out that today he was different, she tried to ask , but then he tried to silence her with his own words “ Hi Sis !, what were you cooking, try something to match the weather and my high mood.” .He walked in a 218

The Riparian Neighbours

very relaxed manner, complete with himself. Bilqis just watched him and bolted the door. She walked past by him , quickly. Ahmed entered into the sitting lounge where Saif was playing, he went close to him and lifted him and embraced him. You want to go outside, come we will puck some cherries for everyone. Ahmed walked out with Said in his arms. They went to the two young trees which were now fruiting. These cherry trees bore few fruits but those were sweet ones. A they would grow old they would fruit more and more. Since the fruit was prone to fungus they have to be really taken care of. Ahmed and Saif plucked the cherries in Saif’s pockets. He was wearing overalls with large sized pockets. Their mother who was sleeping inside woke up and called them inside since it started to rain once again. Saif and Ahmed went straight to the kitchen where their sister was preparing for the lunch. As Ahmed washed tehcherries and looked for the bowl. “ Here you can put them in this bowl” Bilqis placed the lovely bowl. Ahmed ‘s mother and Ahmed shared many common tastes and preferences, their passion for crystal crockery was something just next to one which can be described as obsession. They have purchased lot of Japanese crockery crystal ware, which were cheaper to those from France or 219

The Riparian Neighbours

other parts of Europe including Belgium. The Customs at the Atari were very fussy about these items, yet they had allow with levying of duty. It was their habit to reduce the commodity which was then distributed by them as booty. As if for token, some of the confiscated goods were sent to the Government warehouses were when lying unclaimed for the stipulated time , these goods were auctioned. In much rare instance did they issue summons to the people for proceedings under the statute. This was to protect the Indian industry, although it was hardly doing. The repressive customs were solely repsonsible for preventing consumerism and the boom in the economy. Everybody realised it , yet there was dormancy. People would then put up with lot of nonsense. The two years of constitutional emergency has scarred the systme forever. The servants would please the master of the house, their loyalty shifted the day new one took over. If the master was repressive , it behaved in the desired fashion. On the other hand, if it was not so then the servants also behaved in the relaxed and candid fashion. The servants no longer served the house. They were slaves of the masters of the household. The household was more or less crumbling , as the age of crisis-management, withered like the old houses, the system was taking the shape of a 220

The Riparian Neighbours

dilapidated portion and the servants were soon to be the victims of the same. Many a times when one would see the Old dilaptaed buildings, strcutures, the monuments as they are referred, the loyalty of servants to the houselhold was the reason for the loss of prime world of the magnificent buildings and Forts, no matter hwo strong and energetic they would be once. Next two days passed much faster than Ahmed and Arasta anticipated. Thereafter Ahmed and his family was move to Leh where Saghir his father was now placed. In those two days Ahmed and Arasta met number of times on one pretext or another. It was also for the first time that Arasta visited Ahmed and his family at their house. Each night thereafter they slept very late. Ahmed would go up the Attic and she would stand at the window, just as when she inspired Ahmed to pen his thoughts. Ahmed was getting serious more so unwillinglty,a s if some hidden force was working on his emotive values like a balck magic art. He ever doubted if he would ever fall prey after being victorious. However he had falen prey to his ownself. Ahmed was extremely impressed by the challenge posed by Arastas’ precondition to emotional trust . On one such occasion, Ahmed wanted make their secret public. He wanted to do it before they left for Leh. He was aaware that on his return ther would be hardly any time for such celebration. He wanted that there relationship was 221

The Riparian Neighbours

revelaed in the most secretive manner. He was very protective about relationships, somewhat inhibitive as well. At the same time Ahmed however did not want to reveal it all at one go. Then he finally decided. He knew this would only bolster his image with Arasta. In few days he has read her personal likes and dislikes. Moreover Arasta was a simple person whose moods would reveal it all. Ahmed was master in manipulating his emotions, a very private person. It was strange the night next to that afternoon when they sat and discussed their olifelong commitment Ahmed thought that night sitting in the Attic as Arasta leaned at the window, with her hairs flowing with the breeze, she would hesitantly waive at him, he would send a signal of approval by switching on off his pen-light torch. He wondered that night what was so commonbteween the two i.e. himself and Arasta. He found that they were attractive by some genuine love and attraction. He did not hide that this was not love at first sight. However it was more a gradual thing than anything else. He remembered how when he was first introduced by his elder sister , he was attracted to this beautiful girl whom he found difficult to ignore. This was less than three weeks earlier, He never was short of girl friends, including some nice looking ones. However this became exception. Ahmed could not sleep that night thinking why Arasta became an exception ?. Was it here demeanour, very aristocratic and discreet, yet accessible. Strong and valiant yet vulnerable. He pondered and pondered, until the crack of dawn. He 222

The Riparian Neighbours

could hear the puppies which started to call in the morning itself. Arasta waved him goodbye around midnight. Today was the last day of their stay in Srinagar, Arasta, as yesterday, came to Ahmed’s house for the Lunch. Mrs.Kabbani was intelligent, she thought this was a passing phase for her daughter, which would just die down . as the visitors would leave. Although she knew her daughters’ resilience and perseverance, yet Arasta’s mother treated her as kid. She was not wrong in thinking so. However, although Arasta and Ahmed did not get to marry each other in the end. Ahmed and Arasta remained loyal to each other for a very long time to come. Ahmed married to another girl on her insistence. They were too busy to think of the dire straits lying ahead in future. Unaware we chart our course of life, the kind of optimism which keeps the world throbbing with passion and life. Evnetuality is part of the bizarre element in human existence. However the ones driven by passionand others driven by avarice or greed stunt there way mch beyond than those with pessimisn and depressed attitudes. Although tehre is no denial the two

lead qualitatively different desire, which have what is synonymous for years now i.e Cann and Abel. “Ahmed come on boy its 9.00 clock, we have to go to the bazaar…” Ahmed’s mother called, as cleaned the room. She removed the surtain and tucked them. 223

The Riparian Neighbours

Ahmed pulled his light quilt to cover his face from the bright day light. “Ahemed, O’ Ahmed, did you not hear me O’son.” She came near to him and gently scruffed his hair. Ahmed still wriggled inside the bed. “Alright you get anothr half an hour,.., I do not know what is happening to this boy”. She went murmuring outside. Ahmed simply looked outside the window he realised today was the last of their visit in Srinagar to reveal to his plans . As he was climbing down the attic he decided the same . Ahmed was getting out of his bed when he heard the bell ringing. “Ah h ha look who is here, you didn’t go the school ?” “No auntie the strike is still continuing, so the schools are closed for the day” . Ahmed could make out Arasta’s voice. Hers was very soft and sweet as well. “Bilqis, I feel really bad that you people are leaving…” “Well why don’t you join us to Leh, I am sure we will go beyond that”, she pause as she wiped the dining table, Arasta stood near her picking some plates in her hand. “Papa called this morning so he said we might vsist border areas, and the Nubra Valley, you know ladakh scouts..” she pause and looked at her whiled handing some glasses from the table. Araasta while while walking towards the kitchen with the glasses in the tray, she tried to peep into the rooms and also while coming out after placing 224

The Riparian Neighbours

the same in the kitchen. she tried to catch glimpse of Ahmed, who slept in the room whose door opeened in the lounge . This door was still half close and the curtain were drawn. However she could not draw courage to ask, for him. Bilqis standing on the other end of the table could see Arasta’s predicament in her conduct, as their eyes met. Bilqis tried to ignore, to avoid embarassment to Arasta. Bilqis and Araasta were very simialr in their nature so they paired well. Ahmed who would spend longer than what is usual time for others in the bathroom , today he was quickly out of the bathrrom which was attached to his room. He hurriedly wore his ironed, white embroidered kurta and pyjama. He combed his hair put some deodrant and perfume. He looked himself in the mirror just to check his looks. His beard was growing thicker and darker, so was his moustache. His face-cut would never tell his age, his features were sharp though, which made him look smart and handsome. Ahmed smiled to himself, and walked out of the room without his slippers. Just when he was about to the open the door of his room, he realised that he could feel carpet-tingling in his feet. He looked down and quickly bent down to pick his slippers under the almirah in the corner. He walked confidently out of his room. Turned right and walked straight into the kitchen. Then he quickly came out and looked where Arasta was sitting, on the sofa, in the lounge. He pulled a chair while 225

The Riparian Neighbours

wishing her Arasta looked up with a vivacious smile . He started to have his break-fast. Bilqis placed the plate and glass for him and served Kashmiri Naan65 and butter. The moment Bilqis left, it was just the two of them in the lounge. Ahmed looked at her and as if by instinct so did she. Ahmed in spur of moment, or lost to his emotions, winked at her. Arasta amazed, booed him. Ahmed gave a naughty smile while devouring Naan, he poured some water after finishing the same he poured some juice in his glass. Ahmed gestured to sit near him at the table. Arasta got up and walked near the table. “What are you eating ?”…she then asked and continued “huh huh , you are a typical kashmiri” “why you guys have juice in the morning” “No we don’t, we eat them, we don’t crush them , as we value them for their freshness and fruit value.” “Ok you dont have to lecture me , people in the West prefer juice in the morning” “ I dont know about the West, but in this part only the sick and feeble drink in form of juice for nourishment.” and she bursted into laughter. Ahmed tries to escape her fun, but couldn’t help smiling. They now began to cherish every moment they spent together. Meanwhile Bilqis came in with Kahwa. She quietly went into her room, without saying a word. Ahmed and Arasta took their cups to sit at the sofas which were lying on the other side of the large room. “It might rain, the clothes are still hanging outside” Ahmed s mother called from inside. 65 This is like any other Naan but is of small size and is very brittle for the taste as well. 226

The Riparian Neighbours

“… I heard you saying there was some strike, so what about market. Will it be open?”, “ammmm…oour school was closed as a matter if precaution than any other reason”. They were referring to the strike which was called by the pro-autonomy political groups there. Moreover the strike for making Ladakh region integral with the state of Jammu and Kashmir was very successful through out the mountainous region and the valley. It was believed that this would then give the State more political voice in the Parliamanet and the Assmebly as well. This wasn’t a populous province. The need for political muscle dawned on regional forces long time back. This was now manifesting into a movement. The coalition government in the Centre was much a welcome stage for such evolution. However it wasn’t very serious i.e. the call for strike. The schools however,for fear of sporadic violence, always closed down till normalcy was assured. The assurance was not to come from the adinistration but was to be read in the conduct of the political wings and groups, specially the aggressive and militant ones. It would only take few minutes for the normal streets to turn bloody. The test of scale of antcicipated violence being if no damage to the public property was reported for next day or two. People in the valley knew what the movement was against or say what the aim was.

It was the nature of state, which they were against not the public by and large However the 227

The Riparian Neighbours

State employees were the possible exception only. Although these days the situation was not so grim. Many groups were hopeful of the new Prime Minister. A new Central Minister for the Kashmir Affairs was a new hope, much some thought like Secretary of Ireland. The Westminster model was desperately trying to search for the solution, drawing inspiration from other systems facing such political secession. However it si very incorrect to folow the models, the model to individual crisis develops as the Crisis develops or evolves through its stages of peaceful means to violent means. The combination of the two means or complete divorce between them. Usamaah and Bilqis were getting ready for some last minute shopping. Saif came running to the lounge with socks in his hands. He looked for free-hand, so approached Araasta talking to Ahmed. She was holding a magazine in which she was least interested . It has been lying in her lap half open ever since she came. On seeing Saif with socks in his hands she spoke “Come dear, I will help you wear them”. Saif sat next to her. She held his feet, and appreciated the sticker on the socks. “this is six million dollar man, he is very powerful…” Saif innocently. Ahmed was enjoying pudding after his breakast as he chatted with her. Ahmed was very fond of sweets and 228

The Riparian Neighbours

enjoyed eating variety of meals and dishes. He preferred local cuisine than to what they would generally eat at home, as a norm. Ahmed was quite a cosmopolitan that way. Of course he was very particular in his tastes of Non-vegetarian, he only preferred halala.66 “Araasta would you come shopping…” Biqis asked, as she ironed her clothes at the stand lying in the lobby.” Arasta faced her side and said “Is everyone coming”. “..except Ahmed, everybody else is…”. Bilqis responded in somewhat shrill and irritated tone. The duo Ahmed and Araaasta enjoyed this reponse and smiled at each. They were happy that their relationship was gaining credence and people around were beginning to notice it with an element of seriousness. Even if that seriousness was equally recent and overcast with an element of doubt. The doubt was more on Ahmed who did not carry an image of stability when it came to his girl friends. Ahmed being a handsome looking boy, with innocent looks was an instant success with girls. His features coupled with his articulate self, worked wonders in gainaing friends. It was not that they were girls, just that he was equally at ease with them. As would most boys be of his age, eager to have grils friends or 66 The preferred one(that allowed/permitted) 229

The Riparian Neighbours

to mix with them,not knowing however the way to go about the fairer-sex. It was his liberal upbringing that went as an important input in moulding his attitude and behaviour towards the boys and girls. Although bit discreet in his company. He only had few fast friends . Ahmed was very sure about the lasting relationship and the persons around him. His mother who was crucial to his parenting, influence him to the extent of bring discreet about his company, particular in terms of mental aptitude. Usmaha his mother was insistent on the scholastic bent to her children. Her children responded equally well to her expectations. Itw as a perfect sample of educated class. Although Saghir Ahmed’s father was a busy man with site work, his guidance was always there. Although this gave them single parenting most of the time. Uzma their mother knew the challenge, so she decided on free-lance job than a fixed career and office routine. “Well if Ahmed is here then let Araasta be here also, she can b a company”, Uzma said as she checked herself in the mirror placed in the lobby, she continued “Anyway I am expecting Midhat to join us at the Lala chowk bazar..” . “ Oh really..! Ma.” Bilqis loudly from her room where she was getting ready. Meanwhile the bell at the door rang. Ahmed went to the Main gate and opened it. 230

The Riparian Neighbours

“Ma the Car is here…” Ahmed spoke from the lounge and went to the sofa where Araasta was sitting. “why don’t we take the chairs outside, its pleasant there” He said to Araasta while standing near her. “ why chairs, I prefer to sit on the grass, it must be dry…”. They bid good bye to the three. “Ahmed why don’t you show me the attic,” Araasta excitedly spoke in a high tone. “shhhhh no that loud, that chowkidars of yours, that spy of your mother must be around…” Ahmed tried to calm her. “Ahmed don’t talk about my mother like that, alright she is fussy but that does not gove any of us the right to talk in disrespectful tone” “ I am sorry dear, I didn’t mean that…!” Ahmed held her hand as if assuring her. They sat down at the grass and talked and talked about their child hood and likes and dislikes. “Ahmed why don’t you show me some more of your poems, or you have written just two of them” Arasta tried to tease him. Ahmed quickly got up and rushed into the house and fetched a red-colour diary. As Araasta read them all, Ahmed watched her. She read them all, must be twenty odd poems. “who among the poets have inspired you?” “ Well I am inspired by many poets,although I read very little poetry…”.he paused and looked at the tall and huge euclalyptus tree whose thick leaves hid the sun whereby creating a huge shadow on the house and the lawn in front. “ aa.. ya I was saying…” he tried to recollect “my problem is the medium, I can only write in english, although my content is what you find in Urdu poetry, Ghalib, Faiz, Iqbal and many others inspire me. More 231

The Riparian Neighbours

recently I came across a poet who has experimented in the Urdu poetry. It is unique. All the peoms begin with a common sentence ‘Purani baat hai lekin ye anhoni si lagti hai’ (its an old saying which appears strange). My mother is great fan of this poet, he visits our house in Delhi.” Arasta continued to read his peoms as Ahmed talked to her. “you are a good poet, however I find it strange,” she paused looking at the diary again, said “ this is rather starnge to find somebody like you, never writing a romantic peom. I find only the ones date more recently , those dedicated to me only fall as romantic poetry.” “ ..Poetry my dear is inspiration and thought put together, in your case romantic views and attraction came together, rather I should say that it clicked, it sort of fitted in that frame called Poem.” Now come read all later, I will show you the attic. They left the diary in the lawn and went into Ahmed’s room. Ahmed as susual kept the stool on the bed and pushed the wooden opening , which flung open making noise as it hit the ceiling. Ahmed helped Araasta reach up and then he pushed himself up. The two with their heads slightly bend looked around “ I never knew there was an attic in this house, in fact it is for the first time that I have been around this house. In the beginning it was a godown, then an out house, later on it was converted into a house with some alterations.You are the second tenant we have” “ of course you were not friendly with them..so…” Ahmed tried to tease her. She lightly 232

The Riparian Neighbours

slapped him on his cheek. The two stayed around for sometime Araasta noticing the dirt, asked him to get a broom or a vacuum cleaner if it was there. “Ours doesn’t work.. I will get the broom” “ Oh and bring something to lift it all, a dustbin perhaps” Ahmed went down and brought the dustbin and the broom. Araasta covered her

face with the long dupatta 67she was wearing. She asked Ahmed to cover his mouth with the other hand. As she lightly broomed , stoking the dust. The air inside became heavy. The two coughed. Ahmed tried to open the small grill which was locked form outside. Ahmed broughta jug of water from the kitchen threw it on the ceiling to settle it. He also brought a duster to wipe it. They came down all in the dust. “My god look at my face and clothes they are all dirty..” Arasta as she looked in the mirror while washing here hands and face in the Bathroom. “ Madam you must learn hwo to clean and wash, I am not a rich man, cant afford the servants” , Ahmed taunted her. “ Yes you are right , it is one thing to supervise and other to do it all yourself” Araasta replied seripously, her face all covered with soap. They walked outside in the lawn. “ it must be one o’clock or aorund that” “Ahmed looked at the wall behind and said “yes, 67 long piece of veil which women wear to cover their heads or simply throw over their shoulders , generally worn on shalwar and kamiz. 233

The Riparian Neighbours

its quarter past one…bu why do you ask, you are having luch over here with your in-laws” “O, O, so we will see…” “ Come on, this way we spend some more time together” Ahmed couldn’t believe he was honestly expressing his feelings. Although Usmah and others were expected at Lucnh they did not. The duo were already feeling hungry so, Araasta looked in the kitchen for all that was available to satiate their apetite. Apetite and Company are directly proportional. “ Well I am not good at cooking…buuutt let me try this…” “Oh you are good at cooking lots of things” “A h m e d “ she snubbed him at the pun of the word. Ahmed helped her made th soup, it was a lamb soup. There was some bread, so she made sandwiches. “what would you like to have the sweet, sweetpie…!” “Ahmed , that’s enough for the day.” They went out and sat in the lawn. “I will get the ketchup…” “ Oh see if there is some other chilly or coriander sauce” Arasta was wearing impeccable white shalwar-suit, with heavily embroidered long traditional Shirt. It was very finely embroidered. “Here, Oh I just noticed, you are wearing fine embroidery work”, Arasta looked at it and said, “ Oh I am also learning it from my mother, it takes six-seven months to create such a piece…” “you mean t_h_a_ o_ u_ t long” Ahmed spoke in unclear voice with his mouthful. “Araasta, how many children would you love to have” “ Oh I would love to have houseful of them, provided you earn that much” “A ha !” “If you keep on being creative, I seriously doubt 234

The Riparian Neighbours

your potential” “ Well you may be correct in presuming that the Creative men in this land cannot run their families by just ‘writing business’, “ he grew pensive “…But” he spoke with a stress on the word, “…but , this country or perhaps the society is once again going to respect the freedom of thought and people with vision and rebels likely.” His face wore much seriously look . Arasta was still in a playful mood. “…look the ultimate test is the Intellectual capability and richness…” Arasta pretended as if she was not interested in this conversation. Although she intently listened to him. They shared the understanding which was more of the supportive woman behind the successful man. Arasta was appreciative of his acheivements however she love to eatse him as, as he would occassinal get defensive and emotional. The two then locked the house and went towards the garage where the pups were playing. They took them out of the small make-shift dog-house. All the pups were of fawn color and resembled their mother. The duo cuddled them and kept them in their hands. It was bit humid and smelly there so they decided to go to the lawn. The pups which could now move to some distance, tried to crawl around their feet. Arasta called one of her servants and asked him to fetch the Basket-ball. 235

The Riparian Neighbours

The court was right behind the garage and the basketw as fixed at the wall of the same. “You know that this game least interests me..” “ Very well, Mr.Ahmed two people can’t play hockey or foot-ball which you love to play.” Arasta dodged Ahmed and marked a basket. “ you really play well” “ Not better than Shashi…” she was referring to her school friend and classmate. Ahmed tried to blacok her throw by jumping, his fingers barely touched it and it went swerving away from the basket. “…That doesn’t make you any good player” angrily she spoke making faces. “So why be angry… are we proving something here” “ …the competituive s pi r i t ,yuuu hahh…!” as she lunged from the left side outside the ‘D’. “ Hah competitive spirit…!” he mocked at her and continued “…ever heard of the World War era…” He was very fast barely keeping ball udner control, and jumped higher and reached the basket “ this game was born then,” he grinned at her. Arasta wiped the sweat , her face now deep red colour. She tied the long dupatta over her left shoulder which was then tied around her waist. She was playing bare foot, so was Ahmed. Theoir feet all soiled and dirty. Ahmed was very fair, yet the pink complexion Arasta stood fair when compared. As they stopped to drink some water,they saw Bilqis walking towards them. She 236

The Riparian Neighbours

entered the Lawn from the Main gate and slowly walked her on the walkway, her dupatta68 lying loosely on head. She always wore it on her head . Arasta wore it more formally than what the dupatta was intended for , or as worn by the subcontinent muslims. It was a substitute for the scarf or the loose head garment, worn as a veil. “what took you so long…” Arasta shouted at her , as she poured some chilled water at her feet and around neck. Bilqis kept quiet and looking staright in Ahmed’s eyes she said “ you have locked the door, and on top of that playing here. You left everybody wondering, whatever happened to you?,” She started to walk away after reprimanding Ahmed. winked at Arasta and with his fingers on his lips gestured at her to remain silent. The two started to walk behind her. After walking a few steps, “ now there is no point, you go on with the game”. She kept walking on the pathway which ran in the middle of the Orchard. “ I will open the door it is locked”, Arasta increased her pace walking past Bilqis with keys in her hand. As she opened the padlock at the wooden partition door, Bilqis angrily looked at Ahmed. She was envious of the girl who was taking most of her brothers time and attention. Bilqis was very possessive of her two brothers, Ahmed and Saif. Arasta quickely riushed to open the main entrance. She looked outside 68 Loose head garment worn over shoulders or as a shawl to cover the ehad and torso. 237

The Riparian Neighbours

but nobody was there, she peeped still further to her right. A car was slowly approaching in the direction, on the main road. She could see a small hand waving at her. This was Saif. Waving back she smiled, like always and stepped inside. Arasta was one of those with a pleasant personality, making others at ease in her company. This was the last evening for Ahmed and his family in Srinagar, their morning flight to Leh was scheduled for next day. Arasta and Ahmed knew that they may not meet each other for next one year. The evening was also special. Arasta’s mother sent for her thrice but she vaguely replied. On the fourth occasion, it was her snobbish brother Arman, who came to Ahmed ‘s place for the first time. Arman came from the same Orchard door and waited at it. This time Ahmed went, Arasta was standing behind. Arman spoke in softer tone, which was quite unlike him. His face turned red,as his sister refused him. She also spoke something in Kashmiri, her tone little harsh, than usual. Ahmed could guess, she was reprimanding her brother. It was her assertion for independence and self-confidence that gave here distinct identity. Ahmed respected her for that. That might when they were having dinner, Saghir called, then Mr.Kaul. They were confirming, the departure. “Ha ha, your father, was asking for kababs69 , poor felow is already fed up with the mess-food…” Everybody

69 Minced meat with ingredients fried of bun shape. 238

The Riparian Neighbours

listened to her. Arasta that evening was with Ahmed’s mother, Uzma helping her in the kitchen. That evening was also full of pleasant surprise, when Sheikhu, Ahmed’s cousin called. He informed them about their plan to visit India in September, when they will have short break. Arasta was interested to know all about Ahmed’s family and their relatives, etc. It was almost midnight when everybody sipped tea sitting in the lawn, after finishing their kitchen work, packing also. Moreover this house would fall vacant in less than a month or so. “ Ma, I will just escort her to her home and will come back, you people now sleep”, Ahmed said while lifting Saif, who was now asleep. It was not very cold that night, as would be so in the season. “Very Well”, Ahmed’s mother walked inside with the tray in her hand. Bilqis and Arasta hugged each other and bid good bye “don’t forget me, I enjoyed some of the best moments with you…” “ how can I, you are really nice, you’re like a younger sister to me”, Bilqis kissed on her fore-head, they were of same height. Although Bilqis was much older to her. As Ahmed walked away, she said “ take your time, I will leave the door open” Arasta blushed and walked with Ahmed with lifting her eyes. Her gazed at the ground. Ahmed and Arasta walked slowly towards her house, as they reached the garage , the bitch came near to the two and started to walk right behind them. “ I 239

The Riparian Neighbours

think everybody understands us in my house” “the same may not be true about mine”, Arasta paused “ I don’t know if ever we will visit Delhi for a short-stay, in case we visit in December on our way to Australia.” Ahmed looked at her, it was the last night when the full-moon would shine, with the twinkling stars of the milky way,shining ever brighter with full energy. “Ahmed, I know you do not like to wear ornaments, but these are cufflings,”she opened the small knot at the corner end of her dupatta. Ahmed wondered the whole day why this knot, now he knew. The cufflings were very finely carved of silver. They bore his name on inside. Their small stones shine in the moonlight. They kept walking hand in hand in the big lawn, untill they were tired. They didn’t talk much. Ahmed could see the amber light in his lawn. They parted with a promise to phone and write. Ahmed for many years kept the cufflings in safe, then when he started to wear them, at the parties. Next day early in the morning, Ahmed and his family were ready to leave, “ your eyes looklike you didnt slept” Ahmed’s mother remarked as she locked the his room. “ Iwill lock the main door and others, you can sit in the Car”, his mother handed the keys and went out saying “ Come quickly !” , Ahmed while standing at the steps leading to the lawn, faced right and tried to see if Arasta was standing in her window to say goodbye. He quickly bolted the entrance door and locked it. Then he ran towards Arasta’s house, as fast as he could. The dog 240

The Riparian Neighbours

was running with his tail wagging fast alongwith him. He stopped at the walkway leading to the garage. Arasta was standing in the window, she was dressed up for her school. She winked , smiled, floated a kiss and waved him goodbye. Ahmed tried to catch his breadth, just ran back. That day they flew to Leh but the aircraft could not land on the treachrous air strip, in an unpredictable weather. The aircraft hovered around for more than half hour, but couldn’t land. It was all cloudy, the aircraft bounced in a turbulent manner, a Boeing 737. The aircraft came back to Srinagar, the flight was scheduled for next day now. Arasta was too happy to see them back. It happened thrice. Nobody except Ahmed and Arasta enjoyed the same, secretly. They vouched each moment of togetherness. Finally on that sunny day, they landed in Leh a small desolate town. The plane was carrying passengers which comprised mainly of the construction labourers who worked for the BRO, under Contractors. There were some women too. “See we get to land because of these toilers of land” Ahmed’s mother thanked God with tears in her eyes. The approach to the air strip was treacherous, the aircraft was to land with pinpoint accuracy, as the final approach was surrounded by the two hillocks. The thin air made the jobs of the jet engines real hard. The engines roared and roared to control, the glide, only an aircraft like 737 was found maneuvrable enough, rest were sturdy Russian 241

The Riparian Neighbours

Andropovs, which ferried the Army and other defence forces men, women and their families. It was apart from the supplies to the whole volatile region of moonscape geography. At the aircarft itself some instructions were given to the passengers, as the air was thin and breathlessness could be caused. The airport only had one structure which wore temporary looks. It was bright and sunny. Saif holding his mothers’ hand, rushed to a figure which came out of the shelter-shaped building. He was their father Saghir, who has been waiting for their flight for past one week to land at Leh. Though such delay was quite common, due to landing difficulty and the risksa involved. “dont’ run , walk slowly !” Saghir cautioned Saif, who kept on walking fast. They greeted each other, and in a single motion lifted Saif in his arms and kissed him, hugging him, as he embraced his wife and children. Some junior oficers were also there. Saghir asked his family members to stay in the Lounge. This Lounge was recently built. A semi-permanent structure. At the waiting hall, a junior officer stood by the family to take care of their refreshments, while Saghir met the Contractor and his labourers, who were also aboard the same flight. The man was Salim Limpu, an Assistant engineer from the Project office. He explained “Madam!” , he addressed very softly “…Saheb is very different and takes great care of his staff including the temporary employees under the Contractor. Saghir was a different type of bureaucrat, rather a technocrat. He was convinced that it was not possible for them to make or 242

The Riparian Neighbours

look for the statutory changes. The constraints in ordinary course of working were getting more and more obvious everyday. The colonial masters worked with a different objective and the labour legislation was so repressive as to cause non-employment, than employment generation. The small difference, which one could make, was by creating a team effort. It was rather surprising to see that most of these labourers were from the hot-humid areas of the country. However, after many days of wondering how these labourers survived the rigours or adjusted to the harsh altitude, Salim pointed to the small packet which these men and women carried in their pockets. These packets contained the local tobacco and lime. It was to be kept below the tongue or at the side of the mouth. It kept their body warm, as it raise their temperature. Moreso it was. It was an addiction but worked wonders to their employers. Unlike Chinese opium addictionn these men wer found by the British Colonial masters that tehse men would simply die off toiling in the public works. Dying of hunger was better dying with ulcers and throat cancers. As the Khans travelled across the leangth and breadth of this barren scape these labourers were omnipresent maintaining roads in nearby and far-flung areas. This was the season where the roads got clogged from the water flowing from the melting snow.

243

The Riparian Neighbours

Chapter Nine Saghir was a man of small average height, fair, goodlooking, an over-all charming personality. Off late he started wearing spectacles. So he would always hold spectacles in his right and left hand. His profile would fit description of a man who is always pre-occupied with his work. As though he was obsessed with the task he was entrusted with. His charming and disarming mannerisms made him instant favourites with his labour and officers. His sense of humour was equally sharp. It could be easily understood by the illiterate labourers who spoke very different dialect and language as well. Saghir was as if cut-out for this job. The job of building one of the difficult roads all through the year for the Army and civilians did require a leadership and camaraderie. Thus Saghir was not a typical bureaucrat or an engineer who belonged to the elite core of engineers. His wife and children understood his obsession and never came in between his work and passion for Road building research. His papers and techniques were being accepted as national Road building standards and were also appreciated abroad. Many of the UN or International development Banks while executing such infrastructure jobs were looking for his model. Saghir was consultant to many of these organizations. So it kept him very busy. Salim Limpu while watching Saghir said to Uzma , “…saheb, is the only engineer-consultant whom I have seen maintaining the library at the site itself, and a small testing facility. 244

The Riparian Neighbours

This field lab has been established from his own money. A small amount was provided by BRO and Army here. Saheb, is never angry with anybody. These days he is teaching us all how to conduct simple lab tests.” Uzma sipped her tea quietly and smiled intermittently. “ Ma Ma ! this airport has a tin roof…” Saif amused interrupted. He drowned his face in his mothers lap, in a playful mood. Usmah lovingly lifted his head and smiled back. Salim said “…that’s because this is a make-shift building. The project for airport building is yet to find funds.” “ let me tell you something about the humble beginnings of this air strip, it is hardly an airport.” Then as if reminded of something, he called Salim, his assistant who was standing at the entrance of the VIP lounge along with the newly arrived labourers and their contractor. The men and women probably were too lucky to fly, there may be many flights from Leh to Srinagar, but it was the emergency that the whole lot of semi-skilled road workers were required. However, they did not look excited at the opportunity. Their harsh realism shrouded the temporary elation. One of the gang-leaders or the sub-contractors spoke to Uzma , while the family was travelling to Nubra valley, his name was Shanta Singh. “ Our life is full of temporary things, it is a sort of daily struggle. He paused and said “ when people as deprived as us, are treated well by men like saheb, we feel hopeful about God and his world.” Uzma was moved by this man’s realism and struggle 245

The Riparian Neighbours

for survival. She told Saghir about the man, how he was full of praise for him. Saghir said in his usual blunt way “their miserable life is no match for my nice words and behaviour…” he continued as he kept his spects in his coat pocket, “ I cant change this exploitative system, but I try to show them the not so dark side of the system”. “Come lets go !!!!!” Saghir lifted his son Saif in his arms, he walked out briskly, followed by Uzma, Bilqis and Ahmed. Ahmed walked with his eyes glued at the brochure about the Ladakh Scouts in his hands. His father’s name was also there. Bilqis held his arm lest he would trip on the floor. The floor was not very smooth, although cemented. The airport seems to be hastily arranged. Everything from Taxi operators to the bus operators including tourist guides and others were present. There was just the rope to separate the passengers from the visitors. There was very little police, except for the security check. The presence of the intelligence was very obvious, as this was the sensitive region and it was recently opened for the foreign tourists. The land which fascinated the young and the rich westerners. No doubt some of them were from Western intelligence agencies but many came to the magnetic effect of the land of Buddhist wisdom and way of life. The monastery was the 246

The Riparian Neighbours

order of the day and social reputation. Many young boys from remote corners and rural areas came to these monasteries. Some of them were centuries old and institutions by themselves. They professed their own curriculum and had distinct scholarly identity and importance. As the family headed in a Jonga70 towards the Station engineer’s Compound bearing the CPWD Board. Saghir described the situation in the area. Children listened intently. It was barren site which they have never seen. A Bitumen road in the rocky and sandy terrain appeared like a crawling snake with barren rocks in the distance. It was like a moon landscape, without any vegetation whatsoever. The hard surface around seemed to be sun burnt or tanned . Ahmed who was sitting in front talked to the driver who told him about the places to visit and about the time they would need to acclimatize to the rarified atmosphere/air. They were drinking the canned lemon juice. Anchuk , their driver lived inside the office with his small family. Saghir’s office which housed three agencies i.e the CPWD and PWD71 , BRO72. Base 70 An old American version of military personnel carrier and multiutility vehicle. 71 Central Public Works Department. 72 Border Roads Organization 247

The Riparian Neighbours

Army Hospital was also nearby. This was BRO’s temporary head-quarters and which was Saghir’s office also. The Army Engineers also occupied a small office. Just behind the office complex there were the living quarters of the senior engineers. In this landscape wilderness took the connotation of the land for the sages who sought wisdom and truth in its desolate self. The serenity and the ambience was breadth-taking. For Ahmed and his brother and sister, this was quite a novelty. They have never seen anything before like this. Yet this solemn peace and holy ambience was threatened by the means of modern warfare. It was very obvious in the town of Leh and its suburbs. Army was the symbol of civic life here. It was modern education. The only contemporary life-style which was not Ladakhi. Ahmed and his family waited at the offices which are well-guarded. There was a boundary-wall with barbed fences on top of them. This office was not one of those sensitive installations. However it was recently ransacked by an irate mob, which was protesting against the Central regime for the neglect of the civic needs of the area. They claimed to be the political voice of the young Ladakhis. The office still wore some signs of the recent upsurge. It looked freshly painted. As there was arson also. Since there was hardly any 248

The Riparian Neighbours

presence of the local Jammu and Kashmir Police, it was easy for the agitators to burn the office. Luckily no important records or designs were lost to incident of arson. Saghir never informed his family about the incident. It was only revealed much to their shock and amazement by the staff driver, as they went around the office premises. The Generator room was really large, as the electricity was erratic and non-existent for all utility purposes. They could see Saghir coming out and going inside the rooms which were made in single rectangular row. As they finished their tour of the office complex, their staff driver took them to the lawn near the main entrance. They could see some underground structure, basement type with a narrow opening. Almost like a fox hole. Anchuk went quickly down the stairs and soon came out of the place with a tray and cups of tea for the visitors. There was very little staff in the office. It looked deserted. As Anchuk went down the small narrow opening, Ahmed and Saif peeped down. They wondered what that place could be . Something secret there……!hmmmmmmmm.!!!!!!!!!!. “You have a canteen there” Ahmed, as everybody eagerly awaited Anchuk’s reply. “ No young master, this is how people here in Ladakh live. They have their houses dug in the ground, this works as insulation. We can grow barley on the roof-tops.” He paused as Ahmed and his family wondered if he was telling the truth. As they later found while criss-crossing the Ladakh Division that the hundreds of houses were constructed in straight and 249

The Riparian Neighbours

random ways, like that of Anchuk and their roof-tops were used for harvesting the barley during the summer season which lasted less than three months to be precise. “Anchuk smiling continued “… since we are short of staff and accommodation , so my family was given the option to make extra money by undertaking canteen job as well.” “ you mean this house was provided by the government” Bilqis as she sipped the tea. Ahmed, Saif and their mother intently looked at Anchuk. He felt amused. “This is one house which does not find mention in the papers. This was made by us.”( he meant himself and his family). Anchuk was the essential part of the visitors itinerary. He was an ex-service man and a ware veteran. His was typical Mongol features with sun burnt face skin, which looked rough. He had wrinkles on the side of his eyes and just below them. Saghir trusted him for his honesty and reliability. Driving was real skill and test of nerves in this region. Anchuk was really polite person, as was a common characteristic all over the place. Local people were courteous and helpful. However they were not very comfortable with the people from Jammu Division of the State. This was the Union territory under the Indian Constitution so in plain terms it meant that the day to day affair 250

The Riparian Neighbours

were decided by the Central government at New Delhi. Those days the area was under turmoil. Number of demands were set by the Ladakhis. Bi-polar local politics was coming of age, as the end of single party domination in the local politics came to end. The local rage did had the blessing of the religious elite. Although the lamas in their maroon and yellow robes were hardly in the lead. “ It is believed in the mountainous regions that the mountains are strong , yet they have enormous patience and perseverance.” Topography and social character do run by side with each influencing and reflecting the behaviour patterns. After an hour or so, Saghir came out and walked straight into the vehicle, asking everybody to get inside, quickly. Saghir by character was always on the move. He was not a man in hurry but on the move. This was very peculiar of him. A source of jealousy for his superiors and sometimes colleagues. Every key project in infrastructure segment bore his signature. The state government of Jammu and Kashmir was not relieving him of his assignments, thus keeping him involved in every project. Lest his deputation is ended by the Union Ministry. 251

The Riparian Neighbours

Saghir and his family finally settled for the day in their spacious home which had a glass house and massive bed rooms. The house was really huge by any standards. It was full of all modern and expensive gadgets. At the home there were two people, one was Karim the cook and errand man, the other was Akram, he was the part-time gardener cum cleaner, although he was a permanent Peon. Although this house did not have a garden barring a few pots of plants. As they settle down the telephone rang. Salim Lempu picked it up and asked the caller to hold as saheb was busy. Saghir took the call, this was the District Magistrate, Magadh Raj Singh, IAS73 . He was back in town. The man was very fond of evening parties and a poet himself. As Urdu was the administrative language here, the rich Urdu poetry came naturally to him, given his flair for the same. Saghir was the man who loved poetry, so they were complementing each other, in a way. In any case there was very little to socialize, as these men(officers) were completely alien to this part of the world. More recently, the violence has made their interaction even more regular during the day time. The incident of arson at Saghir’s office, was recent only three days ago. Luckily the irate mob did not hurt or 73 Indian Administrative Services, a colonial legacy and symbolic administrative unity throughout India. 252

The Riparian Neighbours

injure anybody. Saghir was very persuasive, yet he failed before the mob mentality. The leader of the mob was very polite with folded hands , he asked Saghir to leave, to avoid a situation. Saghir was angry for not having the adequate Police support. The telephonic conversation was exactly about the same. However, Army was now helping the local administration in quelling the violence and controlling the local agitation. However even Army was very cautious, as they did not want to loose their good-will and the community relationship which they have earned in so many years. Many of the ex-servicemen were also the part of this local movement. The disgruntled Youth demanded more and more as the only choice of employment in Army was no longer a favourite with the young men in town of Leh and some other towns in the division. These young men wanted to present in the local administration. This agitation was completely localised and infuriated the Central government, which wanted the local body to be suspended. Thus the silent and barren tracts of the Glacial Himalayas were deeply embroiled in the struggle of the inhabitation by the mankind. This however did not hamper the visitors from getting the touch of the pace of life , which was slow but absorbing for an urbane

253

The Riparian Neighbours

character. The visitors were asked to be confined to stay in the house and possibly to make little movement. This was for acclimatization of the visiting family. In the rarified and dry air here, it was required that those visiting eat lots of butter and drink lime. Akram left for the market. He was office peon to Saghir but worked as parttime in the evenings to earn a few extra money for his family. The salary was hardly decent enough to sustain the modern life-style. Like Saghir he always wore a white shirt and light colour trousers. As the visiting members inspected the house Ahmed decided to put in the glass-house. He was fascinated by the view . This was the front of the house. Their Bungalow was located I the center of massive tract of land with the barbed wire fencing. A small lawn with very little grass , then porch. The main gate was made of the wood. The Bungalow was completed only few months back, so the paint and the lime coat on the walls was still fresh. As Saghir was most of the times in the field office. The house had Karim, a young man as the sole occupant. Karim was interesting character with rather low IQ. He was very fond of smoking bidi 74. He would go out of the house in to the backyard every half an hour or so to smoke. During the days to come he befriended the kids and took them to nearby 74 Indian version of cigar, but of cigarette size. Local tabacco rolled in tendu leaves, a bundle of them would cost 15paisa. 254

The Riparian Neighbours

places. He was not form the office. Karim was the domestic hand. His wife and children lived in a remote village near Leh region. Uzma appreciated him for cleanliness of the house and kitchen as well. Ahmed took to the Glass-house and slept on the diwan . The electricity supply was erratic. Although his father had a generator set installed. It was always running out of diesel every four-hours. So it was decided that the generator would be used in the night time only. There was no need for the ceiling fans , the temperature was just comfortable for the visiting family. Although there were no ceiling fans, even otherwise. These houses were insulated and had small fire-place in every room. The tap water was very cold. It was a rather precious commodity and not many houses had the privilege of having running tap water. “Ahmed wake up son its maghrib 75” Saghir was home. Ahmed’s mother also came to the room and took the grocery bag which he was carrying. “ I think we slept for more than 4-5 hours”, Uzma said while going in side the house. Saghir sat at the sofa in the Glass house. It was a combination of the glass house and the drawing-room. A medium sized room which was served as Drawing room as well. It had large curtains all its three sides. Then there was the door which led inside the 75 Prayers at Dusk hour, also an expression for late evening. 255

The Riparian Neighbours

rest of the accommodation. It had sofa sets, corner tables in-between, center-tables and a Diwan76. It also housed a Book shelf. The room also had a glass ceiling. This ceiling was covered by a huge canvas cloth, during the summers. This cloth can be removed by a lever system outside the main entrance. Ahmed, his father and mother were having their evening tea when Bilqis and Saif also came. Bilqis lifted her duptta round here neck and was tying her hairs, Saif was walking just behind her, half sleep and half awake. Saif straightway walked into his father’s lap, who cuddled him and kissed him. Bilqis picked the cup at the lying in front of Ahmed, and took a sip and then smiled back at Ahmed. “ eeeeee….youuuuuuuuu……….iiiiiiiiiiii……she always does this on purpose….!, this is not fair” , Bilqis sat next to Ahmed very coolly. “there is no need to shout in your fathers’ presence” Uzma reminded Ahmed of the hierarchy. “ Betu77 you can ask Karim to prepare a cup of tea, he younger to you” Saghir, their father, who was playing with Saif. “Papa don’t you ever favour him to me”. “Ok Ok, get some stuff to eat see, if there are some dry fruits inside” he said to Bilqis. 76 A large single bed with plain head and foot sides. 77 Expression for child. 256

The Riparian Neighbours

Ahmed silently sipped his tea. “ Begum78 , you should prepares some siikh-kababs79 , its been long time since I had all that decent food” , “ Very well, I will ask Karim to get the gosht80 you get mutton here” Uzma. Karim walked in with a tray an cup of tea and some dry-fruits. Bilqis carried a bottle of coke. “Don’t drink that much here” Saghir warned her. Bilqis was very fond of carbonated drinks. They have brought the cans from Srinagar, although the coke was recently thrown out by the Central government which was bent on nationalization and throwing out all foreign companies. Little did the constituents of the coalition at the Centre realize that twenty years later when they would once again wield the power in South Block81, they would reverse the order by their own executive directions and orders. Ahmed was still busy reading the book on the Ladakh scouts which he caught hold at the airport. Salim Lempu was holding in his hand when they reached the airport at Leh that 78 Madame or how one adresses his wife. 79 Barbecue kababs 80 meat 81 office of Indian Prime Minister 257

The Riparian Neighbours

morning. Ahmed was completely unaware of the presence of the other people in the room. Bilqis also sat next to her father kneeling her head in his shoulder. She kept one arm over his neck and kept massaging his head which still had all black and thick hair. “ papa you must take care of your hairs, they are getting weak,” “…see they are falling on your shoulders….” She looked at his hairs more closely. Saif tried to peep up by lifting his head skywards. “hihihi…” he giggled, as he looked down at his mother. “hahaha, what is funny, Papa he needs a hair cut, rather get his head shaved off like a monk” Bilqis teased him. “ why don’t join the order, then we can have some peace in the house” Ahmed pitched in . “hmmmmmmmm….don’t be harsh on your sister she is not going to be with you forever” “ Ma why do you always say that, I don’t want to get married” and she kneeled over her father’s shoulder who smiled and cajoled him by tapping his

hands on her left cheek. “ you bachcha82 party can go to the nearby club for Table-tennis and other indoor games. Then after two three days when you have settled then we will go around the place” Karim who was standing next to Uzma 82 kids 258

The Riparian Neighbours

taking instructions, intervened “ Saheb there is one table lying in the garage, it needs small repairs then baccha-log can play there.” “…Oh is their one ?” Saghir was surprised. “I think the office must have purchased from the recreation funds.” “Begum we may not have funds for our library and field labs but certainly the recreation funds’ he he he !!!!!!……..” he jocularly remarked. “Funny are the ways that our system works” , Uzma smiled and replied with sarcasm without lifting her head. “Papa’s department is not an exception, everywhere its like this” Ahmed took a moment from his engrossed reading. “ Aha ! look my son is an intelligent person and he analyses well too.” “papa he gets more pampered and snob “ Bilqis remarked without any emotions, she still sat with her head leaning against her father’s shoulders. The next day being a Friday. An important day for the congregational prayers at Noon hour. Ahmed who suddenly realized while casually glancing at the calendar, by the Border Roads Organization. “Karim bhai where can we go for juma ki namaaz (Friday prayers). “ Karim looked at him and said “ baba its far from here, either we can go on bicycle or by car.” Karim always looked confused when he was asked for advice. He was not a self-confident person.

259

The Riparian Neighbours

Many a time during their stay, the kids would have fun at his cost. But he was nice, never complained about small things. He enjoyed kids, it was sought of replacement family. As he only got to see his family twice a year. The kids also took great care, they got on well and understood each others temperament. Next few days of their stay were full of the anecdotes and escapades. Karim all along was an integral part of them. He narrated lot of stories, about War and the debris in and around Leh. Although during the peace time this town was bore little signs of disturbance. Of late though the simmering discontent was manifesting in to BuddhistMuslim tussle. The demand to change its status to autonomous region from union territory was the bone of contention. It was on Thursday that week that the Head of Tibetan Buddhist order ; Dalai Lama was to visit the town. So Karim took the kids to the main temple in the town where he was to be welcome and bless the devout. It was remarkable as many Tibetan Buddhist fled to this place when China invaded Tibet. Indeed this was a refuge point for the Tibetans, who sold smuggled goods in the local markets and the weekly Tibetan market. These were the migrating people who used the old trade routes and trading points for the smuggled Chinese goods. It was indeed ironical that these displaced Tibetans were surviving by 260

The Riparian Neighbours

selling the Chinese goods in the Indian markets. Ladakh was natural home for these refugees. At the same time Ladakhis also took the advantage of selling these goods. Calculators and digital watches were most popular. The small button cells were also available cheap indeed sold like hot cakes. The European travelers however scrolled through this weekly markets for the precious stones and likewise. The Dalai Lama arrived in a small car which was pushed by the monks of the local order and those of the Tibetan order. He was received by the Local Head Lama and other senior Buddhist Monks. The ceremony was fairly disciplined although the devouts jostled to get the glimpse of Dalai lama. Many could manage to kneel on their knees with folded hands and bent heads. There was heavy police presence and plainclothes men. Karim and kids were already there about an hour or so early. So they got the right place at the entrance of the Giant temple in the center of the town. Local politicians also came to seek his blessings and view on political situation in Ladakh. It was noon when the Holy man arrived. Many of the European travelers were there with their snazzy cameras and movie cameras. Holy man movements in India were still secretive for fear of Chinese intelligence. Although Chinese 261

The Riparian Neighbours

were not that foolish. Chinese were scared of their own disintegration than creating instability in other countries. It was this fear of disintegration that made them act apprehensive and some times political paranoid. They were hardly parochial. West would always project this insecurity as political evil or aggressive Chinese Dragon as it was then referred to. On seeing the Holy man they came back. Next day they went for the Friday prayers in the town mosque. That day they went in their fathers’ car. After the prayers they shopped for the groceries and some other things like clothes, etc. They bought some wind-sheet jackets and sleeping bags. They also purchased two small tents from a shop. Few shops qualified as real shops, others were just small grocery, dark and dingy then. These shops were mainly owned by some shopkeepers of Delhi. The owners of these shops were essentially small and big suppliers to the Army and other Defense forces . these shopkeepers knew their father well. Many of them tried to even bribe him through various means to extract the supply contract to the PWD and BRO.xiii Saghir’s integrity was beyond their influence. It is precisely that earned him repute and regular transfers. Saghir was bit uneasy that day, as he constantly was on a look-out. Ahmed observed him but kept quiet. Then they went to a 262

The Riparian Neighbours

pushmina83 cooperative workshop , where they saw how women worked those expensive shawls. Here Saghir ordered one for his wife. Hew was expecting some royalty on his books, which would go in to pay this expensive gift. Just few yards from this place they went to another cooperative where Ahmed’s instant favourite Apricot Jam was prepared and packaged under a State scheme. Ahmed was bit hesitant to accept that Apricot Jam can be so delicious to leave his tongue savour it for his entire life. The tins did not bear any markings, to avoid taxes. Although it hardly helped in marketing. The Supervisor , a man, perhaps the only man there apart from the chowkidar. He told them that these tins were for the export and were labelled in Delhi by the procurement/exporting firm. Ahmed was surprised to hear the same. The supervisor offered them as sample. At glance of it did not look too appetizing. Some what deep maroon much like a marmalade than Jam. “Wow can I have some more….” Ahmed was instantly hooked to this recipe. No doubt he had sweettooth. Saif also liked. So there father bought few tins of small size. “Abbu we need to buy one tin opener” Ahmed to his father while holding the 83 woolen fibre from the Pushmina goat. An expensive variety. Very soft and light in weight, extremely warm. 263

The Riparian Neighbours

packet in his left hand containing the tins. He was walking along-side his father. They both loved to walk at a fast pace. They never bothered if others could keep pace with them. “Oh we have one” Karim who was still tasting the jam stopped and spoke clearing his mouth. “ Fine” ; Ahmed . AS the men drove down towards the Airlines office, next to which was a guest house, where Saghir stayed before shifting to the present official accommodation. They sat at the office for sometime where the refund for the return fare was taken. Ahmed could c outside form where he sat. there was a huge queue of women and children in their traditional winter dress, although it was June now. The women wore their traditional head-dress with precious and semiprecious stones embedded in it. “Is this Q for kerosene”, Ahmed asked surprised, as these women and children had Jerry-Cans tied with barley rope to their foreheads and waists. “ Oh that young-man is the long Q for potable water”, said an elderly man who was sitting in the office next to Ahmed. This was Major Rahim, he was war veteran, a heavy smoker, friendly, robust. He just lived next to the main temple, in the town. Major Rahim carried a personality who would befriend children in no time. Ahmed and Saif would visit his house 264

The Riparian Neighbours

many a times whenever in town, along with their newly made friends in Leh. Major Rahim in less than 15 minutes, impressed with his answers to Ahmed queries relating to life and times in Leh. It was his words, rather opinion that shaped his outlook of life and times of Ladakhi and advent of Ladakh Scouts. As they traveled the distant and remote parts of Ladakh , the new symbiosis became ever more apparent. Major Rahim like most senior citizens, lamented about the performance of the young recruits, who were not up to the mark. That less and less local boys were joining the officer ranks. Perhaps he didn’t realize the emerging power of the cityphenomenon or Urbanization. Delhi was central to the circumstances of Leh and perhaps to the region of Ladakh region being a Union Territory. For change in plans, Khans’ would be returning by road to Srinagar. It was two day trip by bus or Jongaxiv . As the coming Sunday they were planning to leave for the Ladakh Scouts raising day celebrations in Nubra Valley.

It was hot here as this part of the town was all open and no buildings/shades. There was just one tree-shade in the compound of the Airlines office. This was the only tree which was found in the whole town of Leh. They had few tins of fruit juices , but they needed to catch some grub. Instead of driving home, they drove straight 265

The Riparian Neighbours

to the Army Mess where a mix of Dogra ,Kashmir Regiments and Ladakh scouts were stationed . This was a family station so to speak. Saghir wanted to complete some official work with the Army for the Nubra Valley project before they left for the Raising day celebrations. So they first went to the Army mess and had some food. All nicely cooked. They ate vegetarian food for they knew it was not halal. The visitors were here for more than a week now. While Saghir went to meet the officers from the Engineering Core. The children waited in the Waiting hall of the officers mess. Soon after ten-fifteen minutes they started feeling bored by sitting glued to just one place watching VCR. As they explored with Karim and their driver keeping watch on them. They walked out of the Mess Compound towards the next compound, it read ‘Kennel’. The boys knew this was their place. So they walked inside without anyone stopping them. The compound here were not walls but were just divided by thick bushes all neatly cured, with barbed wire demarcating the compound limits. Only the structures were made of concrete. Naturally it was a difficult task to haul cement and other modern building material up at this rarified atmospheric heights. Both Saif and Ahmed were fond of Dogs and hunting with them. This commonality made them friendly with many who were much elder to their age . “So sir, are you the trainer” Ahmed asked cautiously to the man in Army uniform. He was standing in the corridor of this barrack type building, 266

The Riparian Neighbours

tending to the feet of German Shepherd. He lifted his head somewhat surprised to see the kids inside the compound. The dog seemed to be well behaved. “ Yes that’s right, this is Sheru” , He referred to the Dog which started to wag its tail and opened its mouth. “ So you are new here” , he further asked, as he removed the bandage from the hind leg of his dog. “Oh we are visitors, our father is a Consultant-Engineer with Army. He is there in the next office.” “ Ok young men, you like canines” “ yes Sir, We do, in fact we have one… aaaaaaa…….” He hesitated then said “…can we go around and have a look” “ Oh sure, why not…” . He was an Army Sergeant, Ahmed could make it out from the stripes on his sleeves. He was from Dogra Regiment. He proudly wore his straps, two full ones. He has served in War and at Siachen ,twice as well. As they went round the Kennel most of the Dogs were dosing with their heads lying on the front paws. The kennel was dominated by the intelligent varieties, like Labrador, Golden retrievers, German Shepherd. One or two Mongrel variety. Saif finally broke the silence bit excited by all those canines. “We just met Major Rahim, he too has Dogs, you know him” “ Oh yes, we served during the War together,… brave soldier received shots in leg so was retired on disability”. Sergeant Vishesh Dogra was gallantry award winner and the dog he was tending to, was his team mate. As they walked past the kennels and stopped in front of a commemoration board. IT was a varnished wooden 267

The Riparian Neighbours

board with Canine head of brass at the top. These were the names of the Canines who died in action. Their photographs along with their trainers were placed on the walls in the corridor. There was a dispensary and a huge training ground at the back of this building with training equipment placed in the open. “ These canine soldiers are trained in survival tactics, sniffing bombs and land mines, messaging and carrying first-aid kits to the wounded during the War” Sergeant proudly told them as he took the boys around. “Baba log84, saheb is ready to leave, Come lets go…..! “ This was Karim running towards them. He was one jittery fellow, always close to being nervous in a situation. It was a sunny hot day with June approaching here but the gentle breeze prevented one from getting sun stroke. At various points the giant boulders from the local rocks bore the regiment marks and their distance from the last stone. These boulders were carved as those used to mark the arable land for revenue limits. The drive ways were not charcoal or bitumen they were just small pieces of stones , then rolled over by the rollers. They were regularly pressed so that the drive ways did not get bumpy. Some times the strong winds would erode the top layer to create huge craters in the middle of the roads itself. The dry winds would 84 Vernacular here it means Kids. 268

The Riparian Neighbours

peel off the delicate face skin in no time if not taken care. Many of the top ranking Generals and other officers lived here. Even the soldiers here wore peace time uniforms. There was hardly any apparent reason to believe that less than 450 kms from this place IRBMs85 were placed to hit in case of any border dispute. Chinese dominated the threat perception here. Although the new Dictatorial regime in Pakistan was changing that perception in the Army circles on this side of the upper glacial Himalayas. This perception was backed by the remnants of the last 1965 and 1971 Indo-Pak conflict. The place was full of war veterans and soldiers. Indeed Ladakh Scouts was essentially to scout the young Ladakhis to defend their motherland, a benign off-spring resulting in employment opportunity. The barren face of these arid sparse bore little challenge for young and energetic in organized and disciplined fashion. An alternate to lama was discipline of Army regimen here. As the span of travel broadens and widens, this perception increasingly dawns as a distinct realism. The weather though was not always at odds with the children in any case. The young body-chemistry was more conducive to such harsh conditions. Their bodies adjusted faster than the older ones would usually take to acclimatize. 85 Intermediate Range Ballistics Missiles 269

The Riparian Neighbours

That evening when the family was planning for their trip to Nubra and beyond. Their Driver came with the news that there was a riot in the town between young Buddhist and Muslim members of the community. It took some time for the Police to come and save them. The Bad news was that Major Rahim’s house was also attacked and the main temple in the town. It all happened immediately as they left the market for the Cantonment. “ Well Nobody sounded us in the Cantonment area” Saghir said somewhat angrily. “ Get me the DM” Every went silent. Riots in this far off land, reminded them of Walled city area of Delhi. Riots were quite common in some pockets of the Walled city. However there was a trend of late that new areas and pockets were getting affected by the Communal tension. The sour legacy from independence-era was spreading its tentacles much on account of hydraheaded politicos. “It was the truth of the same morning which spell the Dawn, the red-blood flow coloured the fresh waters, choking the life” Communal tension was still a source of insecurity and brooding for the religious minority here as elsewhere in the sub-continent. The spread in the new geographical areas was taking psychological toll of those who thought ; 270

The Riparian Neighbours

“ now the upheaval of minds has generated sanity I think I was wrong as the fury bellows dreading it.” It was Magadh Raj Singh, District on the Wireless. “ So Raj How bad it is , Over !”. “Oh nothing, it is off-shoot of that protest in Kargil on neglect by Central government, there are few injured, more from Police than the public, Over “ Ok then we meet in the evening” “Fine, try to have an escort Car, or take the other route, so far I haven’t ordered curfew, Over” “ So we meet Khuda Hafiz”86. The family mood grew somewhat somber , that afternoon. “This bloody politics is ruining us….” Saghir while handing over his wireless to his driver Anchuk. Karim left the room without saying a word. There was some silence in the room with Saif making occasional sound or two. After ten-fifteen minutes Akram entered with Karim. Karim placed the cups and saucers and while Akram laid other plates for servings. Ahmed asked Akram, if these riots occurred for the first time. Akram stood straight, paused and then said “ people here are tolerant, but this growing frustration and weak cord between the Center and Ladakh region are 86 (when bidding good-bye)May God protect you. 271

The Riparian Neighbours

causing disharmony.” The two then left, as the family deliberated on their forthcoming visit to Nubra and what all was in the offing.

That evening the Khan’s visited the District Magistrate’s house , who was now more than just a colleague to Saghir, there wave-length met so they were friends now. They had something in common, their integrity and uprightness. In civil services this virtue was reason for lot of political and locals ire, at times also. This complimenting task was ran as a common thread between the similarly placed officials. Although such nexus was getting feeble and less seen. This was possibly due to combination of factors. It could be seen by everyone that the crisis-management was all but anything concrete which the system(machinations) achieved. The administrative options were running out and the machinery was simply withering. Saghir was a determined man , so he took no escort, that evening family drove through a different route to Magadh Raj Singh’s residence, it was almost dusk hour. The sky line shaded pale orange-red with scattered clouds appeared to be painted with the same glow of colours. As they reached a magnificent structure, with the sloping rooftops. Ahmed at the first glance was reminded of Aarasta’s house. Although this was smaller in size and its expanse. The lawn was two layered and the gate was on the left corner of the Bungalow. The Sentry came out 272

The Riparian Neighbours

and verified . Then he opened the gate with one hand holding his Enfield .303 rifle in his other hand firmly with a chain attached to his service belt. He wore a ceremonial Police cap. As they drove inside, on the driveway which was lined by Eucalyptus trees. This part of the two of Leh was full of vegetation and trees, would qualify as elite residential area with some Army offices and camps. Now almost dark and the lights were on. The drive way was laid with red sand, as was the tradition. It substituted for the red-carpet or perhaps facilitated the ruling elite with this distinct colour of the terra ferma. Magadh Raj Singh and his wife stood at the main door to greet the visitors, with their two daughters. They both wore light-warm clothes, as the temperature dipped during the night with slight chill in the breeze. During many days of the vacation rather an extended vacation, Ahmed with his brother and sister would spend many days and evenings at this house and some neighbouring houses. They made new friends here. Singh’s daughters were of Ahmed and Saif’s age. They were very friendly and excellent hosts. Dina and Chandra along with their mother were visiting their father like them. Only that they have been coming here for the third consecutive year. It was kind of informative to meet these girls who told them about their travel experiences across the Ladakh region. They had some interesting tales to tell. Dina was the elder one with a charming personality and Chandra was equally ebullient and chirpy, but more 273

The Riparian Neighbours

beautiful. Dina could easily relate to those who were older to her. So Bilqis and Dina went well. Dina could make out the competing sibling rivalry in hour or so that they spent before dinner. So she balanced Ahmed and Bilqis, thus managed to keep both happy, at the same time. Those who knew the siblings commended Dina for her inter-personal skills Their parents sat in the drawing room, while they went around the house and sat in Dina and Chandra’s room. This was the official residence of the District magistrate. The District Magistrate was over all in charge of the law and order situation and the revenue administration, who would also preside on land disputes and appeals arising thereof. As the town witnessed riots in the afternoon. There were additional enforcement which camped just outside their house. “ Dina get everybody for the dinner” Megha their mother called. She was fond of western outfits, that night she was wearing her bright red sand silk suit with a cream blouse. She was fair and nice looking. As Dina and others were coming down, they saw two girls, climbing the stairs. Dina excited “ Oh hai,,, Ghazzz… and Doma, when did you reach Leh” .Dina rushed down and in the middle of the steps they kissed and hugged. Ghaz or Ghazanfar as the name was, a Kashmiri girl of her age, whose parents were doctors. Her mother headed the District hospital. “Oh me and Papa arrived this morning”. Chandra and others stood there 274

The Riparian Neighbours

watching the three talk in middle of the steps. “ Dinoo, you forgot to introduce them,” Chandra, shaking Dina from her ecstatic moment. Dina was very emotional and warm person. “ Oh ya, gals, meet them, they are our new friends from Dehli.” The two looked at them and smiled. Ahmed was just behind Chandra on the stair case. Ghazanfar in her inimitable style “ Oh we have a handsome friend”, Ahmed replied “ of equally lovely faces…” he giggled , so did everybody. “Baba , saheb is calling you all” the Butler intervened. “Ghaz, cant you stop being yourself, for some time” Dina jocularly remarked. She could see the face expression which Bilqis was carrying. She stood there holding Ghaz hands and when Bilqis passed them she introduced her “ this is Ahmed’s elder sister” . Ghaz did not hesitate, with equal flamboyance wished her back. Ghazanfar and Bilqis never became friends, her first impression was enough to draw animosity. She never took liking to those common friends or otherwise who were too daring on her younger brother(s). That evening after a long time they ate the Kashmiri food ,wazwan so tastefully made in the traditional cuisine method. Last time it was at a wedding of the son of a the prominent political family of the area in Srinagar. That evening as 275

The Riparian Neighbours

the elders sat in the corner smoking, chatting and some drinking. The young ones had their dinner served by Ahmed’s mother to supervise them. Both Ghazanfar and Doma were introduced to her by Dina. As it was only half past seven, though dark ,the younger lot took permission to go to Doma’s place. It was only some four-five hundred yards away. This was a relatively safe neighbourhood. In any case for all practical purposes it was just four houses away. This was the elite residential area which housed the richest. The houses here were palatial and spread in Acres. The DMs bungalow was the smallest in the area. The seven of them left for Doma’s house. Doma who was equally talkative, spoke breathlessly, she was the only child in house, rest were all elders or grown ups. She longed for the company much like anybody would of same age-group. As they went past she described each house and the residents therein. She described the occupants with such ease and grace, as would Tourist Guide. Doma was very refined and cultured for here age. Her family was one of the leading Buddhist scholars of the region who were also very rich at the same time. The road was lit by the decorative street lamps with mercury bulbs. The electric supply in this area was never a problem. As they neared Domas’ place they 276

The Riparian Neighbours

could see the multi story building after a very long drive way. There were many cars parked both outside and inside these were the tourist cabs. All brand new Ambassadors87. “Ghaz, did you notice the stars, there are so many of them , sky is full of them.” Ahmed and Ghazanfar were walking two three steps behind the others. “you are damn right handsome!”. Bilqis slightly turned back and glanced at Ghazanfar, and then looked in front, with a sigh of disgust. Doma did not stop from her non-stop description of the neighbourhood but smiled as if knowing what has happened, Dina and Chandra knew Ghazanfar well enough, so they did not even bother to smile. They went to the same school in Srinagar. She and Dina studied in the same grade. “Doma how come these Taxis are lined before your house?” Saif asked with some amazement and in the same breadth he asked ……is there a party tonight” Dina chipped in just as Ghazanfar was about to say something “ Doma has a guest house , it is one of the oldest tourist inns. The house is in the same compound right behind it.” She pointed to a separate structure behind the big building which was now clearly visible. Ahmed suddenly felt that his right hand was sweaty and 87 Name of the model of the only car of Indian make then. 277

The Riparian Neighbours

could feel another palm of Ghaz’s hand. All along as they walked and talked Ahmed failed to realize that Ghaz was holding his hand. As they entered the compound, the floodlights made them visible to the chowkidar standing at a distance. Ahmed tried to release his hand as he winked at her. Ghaz winked back and said “NO” in a teasing fashion by opening her mouth but without making any noise. Ahmed then moved his lips without making sound “ You are mad….” And he pointed towards his elder sister. Ghaz was one persistent person. Ghaz was quite easy going with everybody, less formal, less protocol. She did what pleased her, very independent minded for her age and upbringing. Ahmed loved girls with such attitude , for such types’ posed a personality and mental challenge. Although once when Ghaz spoke of his choice of girl for marriage, he mentioned everything opposite to what he admired her for. That moment was revelation of sorts for her, she did try to change but it lasted not more than a day. As they walked the drive way and saw someone walking out towards the gate, Ahmed with a gentle jerk released his hand from here grip. Ghaz teased him with a facial expression to which he threw his hands saying as if saying sorry!!!. 278

The Riparian Neighbours

At this point while others who were mesmerized by Domas’ chatting , Dina gently looked over here shoulder and nodded her head , smiled and then started to look straight, as if she was watching all along with a third eye. Ghaz took a long step, and just twitched Dina at her neck and then walked normally next to Ahmed. Dina just didn’t make any noise and gently rubbed her neck. Their personal chemistry was very obvious, they have long been friends to know each others moves well in advance perhaps. On another occasion Ahmed found out the two could team up well and in an evil fashion also. Ghaz’s cousin was at the receiving end. Poor fellow tried to be extra good to Dina at the cost of Ghaz. So Ahmed never took chances with the two. As prevailing wisdom, he never interfered in their affairs, even when asked by them in their innocuous manners. The man who passed by them wished them in accented English “ Hi !!! kids” , Ghaz was quick to respond who hissed “how about you darling!!!”. Either the man didn’t listen or ignored the little girl. However Bilqis turned clasping her hands and said quite angrily , more helplessly “you are some piece of a thing” .Ghaz kept quite, so did everybody, but they kept walking. Ghaz was walking with her head low, desperately trying to hold back her smile. Her cheeks turned deep purple red from the rosy red, and she bit her 279

The Riparian Neighbours

lips with her teeth so firmly, that she gasped for breadth soon after. Bilqis and others went inside the inn whole Ghaz and Ahmed stood in silence waiting outside. Only Doma came out to call them inside, “we will go to one of the empty rooms.” “Aha Sure why not……”Ahmed “after you Ahmed “ Ghaz said. As they climbed the second floor, Ahmed and Ghaz appreciated the nice interiors made of wood with ladakhi inlay work. The inlay work was very dark and bright colours, ferocious looking creatures. Yak also dominated some inlay work. These were natural colours made out of leaves, crushed stones, etc. The inn had three storeyed and was very big with 10-14 rooms on each floor, with two elevators. As they walked on the third floor towards the end of the aisle, one could see the bright and shining stars from the glass panes. “Come inside ! will you please”, so Ahmed in chivelrous mood asked Ghaz to go first. Ghaz gently bowed touching her long black chiffon skirt at its ends in the traditional English manners. But she suddenly stopped at the door and stood with the back towards , keeping it open and stood there smilingly. She gently slided her silk scarf lying around from her neck with her left hand and in the same action swerved it inside the room, as if asking Ahmed to go inside first. 280

The Riparian Neighbours

She was the most unpredictable person and Ahmed was all for her charms. Ahmed smiled and then entered the room where every body was seated in rectangle. Some on the sofas others on the edge of the bed. They were all chatting and acted as if they were ignorant of Ghaz and Ahmed’s entry. “The half of this floor is vacant for two days as the guests are gone for the rafting expedition, so guys we have this whole place at our disposal. Doma was wearing yellow pants and a printed jumper on it. She was very fair with characteristic deep red cheeks, which you get from the rarified atmosphere. She told her friends that the interior of the rooms were designed as assemblage of the three cultural inheritage those from Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh. It was her mother who designed the rooms, she was trained interior and décor artist. So the Inn was very personalised thing for Doma’s family. “Yes, but now my dear this room 202 has Delhi” “Oh yes” , Doma quickly responded to Ghaz’s comment, Ghaz was seated just next to Ahmed on a two seater, which was lying at one corner where a pedestal with lamp-shade of yak skin stood next to it. The room had wall-to wall carpet with woolen ones on the floor and on the sofas lay the silk ones. These small silk-carpets were from the Valley, as they were Persian in 281

The Riparian Neighbours

terms of design and patterns but for the weaving and knots which was different though equally fine. Such exports made the Valley people famous and rich in the Western apart from being termed as conflict zone. Then there was a desk and small refrigerator. The room had wooden panels in three sides and the side where it opened to the small balcony, the wall paper surrounded the glass doors. The rooms were not centrally heated. It came with a small convector and a fire place to keep the rooms warm during the biting winters. There were very few houses to have the plumbing facility. This was a recognized guest house, now the oldest one in the town. Ever since foreigners were permitted, it was a thriving place. Business was good. There were lot of Buddhist travelers that was equally inviting factor for many young tourists from West. Although unlike Dharamshala in neighbouring state of Himachal Pradesh where one could find the young westerners learning about Buddhism and walking in yellow shirts and maroon robes. Here it was not so. It appeared more of Tibetan and Indian form of Buddhism and without the outside influence. The life still appeared to be moving at the pace as it did few hundred or thousand years back. Only the olive green look like colonisers in the remote and the farthest of civilization on earth. It was 282

The Riparian Neighbours

interesting to see the monks with cameras and watches. Doma took them around , all the rooms looked similar with yak heads hanging on the wall. They had comfortable Double beds some had single beds as well. They also had small colour TV sets . Since there was very little TV to watch. The Guest House ran three video channels to choose from. Each room had a small chinese transistor. “Guys you wont believe this but I saw TV set in Pakistan which had just TV tube and small inbuilt transformer and noting inside. No valves,etc”, Ahmed said while playing with the cordless remote of TV and trying channels. Most of the channels were playing Hollywood films and English language serials. “ we have our own customized Dish Antenna but the Army objected to it so we cant use it anymore, otherwise we use to receive twenty channels here with the help of Sattelite receivers. The foreigners like such arrangements ”. Doma entered the room with a man behind her holding a large serving tray containing some dry olives and orange juice. “ Oh ya!!, I saw that in Pakistan, they have quite a few of them in Karachi and Islamabad, not many in Lahore. All colour transmission” Bilqis broke her silence as she sipped juice from a beautiful French crystal glass which had a shade of blue. “Wow ! that 283

The Riparian Neighbours

should be really great” Chandra said as she picked some dry olives,(which looked equally fresh if not juicy) in her slender palm on a white paper napkin. Chandra was the better-looking but not so fair as her younger sister. The waiter was wearing the traditional long coat made of yak wool fibre and embroidered at the collars and at the sleeves round wrist and shoulder and served with white gloves on. He wasn’t wearing any traditional cap which men normally in this part wore at all times. Obviously this was meant to make the foreigners accustomed to the native life, which they came to explore. Maroon was the most common colour for dress after black. Both were sacred colours. Then Chandra and Bilqis engaged in the conversation which was drawn from their experiences from recent visit to Pakistan. The whole set of seven, divided in the three groups, Ahmed and Ghaz, chatting, on one side of the bed sat Chandra and Bilqis and then Doma, Dina and Saif. Ahmed was always discreet. He avoided mention of his girl-friends to his female acquaintances. He has learnt this from his experience. He would gradually reveal himself to the new faces. His charms came first. This sought of impaired the others opinion in lop-sided manner. Most of the times he won accolades as 284

The Riparian Neighbours

being gentle and nice, chivelrous was the common adjective with his female counter-parts. Chandra and Bilqis were now deep into conversation, when Doma the energetic, entered the room and spoke in the same breadth, that they have a dormitory on the same floor which was open and the same was ideal for the “EyesSpies” or hide and seek. Well lets the play the game. Chandra and Bilqis stayed while the rest left for the dormitory which was at the eastern end of the floor Doma as usually walked a step ahead and walked on her toes most of the time. She wore the canvas shoes most of the time, with her name written on it. She was fond of tattoo marks. So she had one or two on her arms which she changed almost everyday. Those were not permanent ones. Doma was gregarious in nature but she was comfortable with herself when all by herself. This dormitory was not exactly a dormitory type it had wooden curtains to separate the beds. Ghaz suggested that the lights be switched off and the curtains be removed so that there could be little light from outside. “We always play like this “ Ghaz came out. She volunteered to be the first one to be the ‘Den’ They played for some time when the waiter came upstairs with the sentry who was on duty at the main gate of the DMs house. He was the another man who 285

The Riparian Neighbours

entertained them and kept them alive on what was happening in remote areas of the State. There was little to do in normal times for the sentry at the main gate except for the ceremonial part. He made Ahmed and others aware that his enfilef.303 rifle which look so impressive was not capable of firing more than five bullets in a row, in case of eventuality. At times the rifle simply refused to fire, it was almost 50 years old. There was number and which read the name of the manufacturer and bore the British crown insignia. The barrel from inside appeared rusted. Although the sentry whose name was Maroof Butt from the Jammu and Kashmir Police spent everyday some 2-3 hours cleaning, polishing, oiling the old rifle, it was of little use to the already rusted barrel. He was the head of the three member guard team which lived in tent at the back of the house. They maintained the round the clock vigil at the door. At one occasion Ahmed asked Maroof Butt “you are posted at the main gate but this is a huge house so what if intruder comes form the other side?” “ Oh there are three of us, the others keep vigil on the other side even when off-duty” “But you have just one rifle and three magazines of bullets” , “Ah you are an intelligent boy, when it is difficult times we call the reinforcements like you saw when you came here first time”. 286

The Riparian Neighbours

As it happens many a times when the most insignificant incident or people influence some very important decisions, in a perhaps more inspiring manner than ever. Ahmed who aspired to joint the Army which he admired for discipline and excellent opportunities, changed his preference forever soon after the completion of this visit. It was Maroof Butt wise words which changed Ahmed’s perception based on his recent experiences the role Army played and its real utility. It was two days after Ahmed and his family returned from the visit to the Nubra Valley and the Ladakh Scouts functions that culminated with the Air Chief Marshall being the Guest of honour on the raising day celebrations. Ahmed along with his brother Saif took Dina and Chandra to the nearby Army kennel which was at a stone’s throw away distance. On that day Maroof Butt was having night duty so he wore civilian dress and accompanied them .Ahmed was discussing the kind of display the Army men conducted and the colourful firing also. The two full rainbows in the sky worked as wonderful backdrop. Maroof Butt was listening carefully. He had a character, whereby he would love to advise children on their taste and preferences and how to improve on manners. As he listened to Ahmed intently admiring and his decision to join Army, he kept 287

The Riparian Neighbours

quite. Maroof Butt watched Ahmed very closely on his enthusiasm to learn more and more about Army and its regime or establishment as would be appropriate to describe a democratic nation’s Armed forces. In an country subjected to whims and wishes of Armed forces such a description would embellish the same. On their way back to Dina& Chandra’s house , Ahmed and Maroof Butt were discussing the Army and Police, when Maroof Butt took the opportunity to influence Ahmed’s future aspiration. “Army and Police is not development, people as intelligent like you should strive to become Engineers, Doctors, scientists, teachers and even politicians…” Politicians… hahahaha…!!!! You must be crazy….Maroof”, “ No why not…???, if only we could get more good and educated people in politics, could we improve our lot.” Ahmed looked over his left shoulder at Chandra who was walking just behind them and perhaps listening to their discussion. He pulled her along. “Chand (he admiringly referred to her)…He says that educated people and intelligent people should be politicians….in this country…” Chandra trying to regain her balance, “…Maroof is correct and I agree….!!!” Chandra spoke with conviction. Ahmed looked askance and shrugged his shoulders and threw his hands in air as if in 288

The Riparian Neighbours

disagreement. “No No Ahmed, you think over it and one day when you grow up and learn more about this world , you will find that I was saying the right thing” ….Maroof Butt, their sentry paused for a moment and looked behind to check if the others were following them. Saif, Dina were collecting some wild flowers from the creeps overflowing the neighbouring walls. He then turned in front, into an open vast bitumen road which curved at Doma’s house almost as if disappearing into

thick bushes one side and the houses on the other. The road faked the horizon.

289

The Riparian Neighbours

Chapter Ten It was 8o’clock in the morning when the Khans’ packed in the Jonga which was their official vehicle with driver Anchuk and Ahmed seated in front while rest of the family sat in the back. This Jonga was refurbished had two parallel red color cushioned seats behind. It had the curtains and came with heater, a stereo and a wireless set. In another Jonga behind were three subordinates of Saghir Khan. These men were also invitee to the raising day celebrations for their excellent work this summer in making the roads functional across khardungla and beyond Nubra valley up to Saichen. The highest road in the world at more than 18484 ft above sea level. It had a rarified air. On top was a small temple with small flags tied to small strings crisscrossing each other. Last night Dina and Chandra told them about the burnt mountains and debris still lying in those barren mountains. Ahmed and his brother and sister embarked upon a journey in landscape which they never imagined. The trip would make them that the vastness of the barren mountain landscape can be equally inspiring as the vastness of Ocean. It was the same Air port road, but this time went past the same. Ona slightly tightly 290

The Riparian Neighbours

curve they saw an Airforce Avro approaching the air strip right in the middle of the two rocks. This was the new route which was devised after the numerous air accidents involving many Air force jets and other planes. The local believed that since the Aeroplanes disturbed the sanctity of the Black goddess while flying over the temple, the accidents occur. The Air Traffic science never believed the local version, but a new strip was built in keeping with the local sentiments. The only tricky part were these two small rocks, which could not have been blasted away. Any major blast would have changed the course of the River Indus which ran in its upper course here like a wide but shallow river. On its banks the Khans and Singh’s went for picnic many times. On each occasion they caught some small fish and were the only people at the banks for miles and miles of blue crystal clear water of the river. It was this river which gave the word India. The river being unique flowing from China creating valley and gorge in Upper Himalayas and then flowing into the plains of Punjab across the current Indian borders with Pakistan. The river seems to be vibrant slightly noisy like small kids, behaved like adolescent when it leaves Indian side of line of control into tribal Kashmir. Long gone were the days when this river would keep the invaders at bay and challenged. The high water-marks were now the artificial borders, long drawn by McMohan on a 291

The Riparian Neighbours

blue print, but now red patches mark the course of river, the soured riparian rights, the estranged riparian neighbours. The vibrant youth of the river-flow was no longer a soothing moment , where the tired refugee or the soldier could drink the water without being hit by enemy-fire.

END NOTES

292

i As permitted during the travel period. ii Urdu for Madame(respectful gesture) iii Chief Martial Law Administrator iv Urdu for brother(affectionate way) v vi Urdu for elder sister. vii Sahir Ludhianvi, his song in a film was banned by the Nehru government for some time. viii Bakshish meaningTip, British started it during the colonial era to win over their subjects. It became so rampant paractice. Even to this day is the biggest spource of the grass-root corruption. In India a commission was set up to see if at all ghoos(bribe) like that existed. Nowhere the word was found to be in use, many euphemisms existed. It is believed that Dowrygiving parctice was the major sources of corruptiona and lame excuse for bribery. ix ‘My friend Zulfi’, By Piloo Modi, Book which documents the days of Murder Trial on deposed Prime minister Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto. x Movement for Restoration of Democarcy. xi ‘Daughter of the East’ by Benazir Bhutto. xii Public Works Department xiii Public Works Deptt. And Border Roads Organization. xiv SUV(sports utility vehicle)