The Fashion History Of Hairstyles

The Fashion History Of

Ambrose Tey Department of Mechanical Engineering Imperial College London

DESIGN, ART & CREATIVITY VITY

December 2008

The Fashion History of Hairstyles From the beginning of time, humans have cared for their hair. The famous Ice Age statuettes, known as the Venus of Willendorf and of Brassempouy, show clear evidence of styled hair. About 25,000 years old, these statuettes reveal that at least some women in the society took care of their hair and had a concept of beauty and attractiveness. The presence of distinct hairstyles in early civilisations also suggests that humans have been aware of the connection between hairstyles and their personal image. The Ancient Egyptians, known for their attention to beauty and cleanliness, used combs and hairpins in their tresses while Greece women had long hair pulled pulle back into a chignon, sprinkled with gold powder, and often adorned with fresh flowers or jewelled tiara. Chinese men shaved the front of the head and wore the back hair long and braided. braided. Men in Japan also shaved the front of the head but kept the back hair ir pulled tightly into a short stiff ponytail. These imply that although hairstyles played a significant role in early societies, societies there were little variations between each individual. Hairstyles merely represent the civilisation’s identity as a whole and were ere not personalised. Moving forward in time in English history, hairstyle fashion was slowly evolving and began to personalise as of the 15th century. There was a huge tendency to imitate or adopt the hairstyle of an iconic individual in each era. During During the Elizabethan era for instance, Queen Elizabeth was the main female icon and set the trends for the era. She was a guiding inspiration in fashion and women strove to imitate her curly red hair and lily-white lily complexion. Even in today’s society, famous superstars still have significant influence on the trends in fashion hairstyle. The dawn of the 20th century saw a transition in hairstyles, from the more confined styles of the Victorian era to looser, fuller hairstyles of the Edwardian wardian era (1901–1910). This was coupled with the modification and eventual abandonment of the tight corset, or bodice, giving way to more mobile and flexible clothing styles. Volume was the theme in this decade regardless of hair length, although longer hairstyles were more popular. po Women often wound their hair around balls of padding called ‘rats’ to create this ‘puffy’ look. Large Edwardian hats,, decorated with elaborate trimmings like ostrich feathers, are often essential accessories accompanying this sort so of hairstyles. Additionally, itionally, an important invention in hairstyling was made in 1906 by Charles L. Nesslar: permanent hair curling. Women could now have their hair curled for months although it was an expensive and long process, hence it remained a luxury that was only available able to the upper class. As one would reckon, there was little change in men’s hairstyle. Men kept their hair short and were pomaded with Macassar oil. It originated from Indonesia and is primarily made of coconut oil or palm oil combined with ylang-ylang ylang oil as well as other fragrant oils. Moustache, beard and sideburns were regarded to represent their wealth and status and were therefore very common at the time. The transition of fashion ashion hairstyle gradually came to a halt in the 1910s during the First World War. After the horrors of the war, people just wanted to have fun. 1920’s society very much abandoned the puritanical standards and constraints of the earlier era and it was a unique time in the history of hairstyles. Itt was a time of racoon coats, boot-leg boo leg hooch, saxophones and ‘boop-boop-a-doop’. ‘boop The epitome of the Jazz Age was the Flapper,, with her bobbed hair and her mischievous smile. These shockingly short, bobbed hairstyles signify the new independent, free-spirited free spirited and free-woman free 1

DESIGN, ART & CREATIVITY VITY

December 2008

ethos of the new new age, which serves to represent a carefree attitude. As the 1920s progressed, the development of technology in America made cinemas and theatres, and hence trends in hairstyles, much more accessible to the general public. Variations sprang up and trends were set by superstars of the time, such as actress Clara Bow and singer Josephine Baker. Men’s hair on o the other hand remained short and centre parting was gaining popularity. They were neatly trimmed and slicked back using usin brilliantine or other perfumed oils to give a glossy, well-groomed well appearance. Men’s hair was perceived to be the neater the better and should not move even when they dance. In the first three decades of the 20th century, it can be seen that the fashion n trend in hairstyling was influenced by many any different factors and changes constantly. Economic and social changes resulted in an increase of social mobility during the Edwardian era, which sparked off the transition in hairstyles. In fact, in the bigger picture, people’s perception of fashion was changed altogether. What was previously unacceptable became a norm with rapid developments in fashion. Moreover, the advancement ncement of technology in the 1920s created numerous roads for the communication of fashion trends. The public gained more exposure in the shrinking world and women’s status in the society took on a new character. Undoubtedly, the Flapper styles, as a consequence, reflect this change in attitude and women’s outlook on society. In essence, the western tern world went from very conservative styles of the Victorian era to the wild-eyed, eyed, carefree days of short Flapper hairstyles in just three decades. All of which proves that it is impossible to look at current hairstyles and fashion trends and make anything ng more than a wild guess as to where things will be in the coming years. We will just have to wait and watch. The Forties can be regarded as the ‘Great Depression’ in the history of fashion hairstyles. With the world at war,, something of a more practical nature was needed. Many women had to work on land or in munitions factories and non-essential non essential items such as shampoos were hard to come by. Fashion at that time was dictated by practicability. Practical women wore their hair in a neat roll around the nape and over the ears, often covered with a headscarf knotted knotted at the front leaving only the fringe exposed. Things were not any better for the gents either. There was no time for such fripperies as hairstyling. The rule was simple, cut it short, a dab of cream oil, and off to battle. Time was tough and people live their days without knowing what lies ahead of them. Women fear for the lives of their family and countrymen while men fought for their lives and country. The fact that hairstyling was no longer an essential essential routine of the day clearly reflects how delicate and sensitive fashion is to factors affecting one’s life, how one’s image is controlled by one’s emotions and interactions with the environment. For example, when a person becomes ill, hairstyling became b a chore and can be live without. The person just wants to get better and no longer cares if his or her hair is a mess. Similarly in difficult times, people’s attention shift from hairstyles and appearances to more important matters at hand. This is why w you can usually tell if someone had a busy or bad day. When a man did not shave or when a woman had uneven make ups. It also probably explains why most military men in service are required to shave their head or at least kept their hair strictly short, deeming it unnecessary for hairstyling. This is because safety, personal hygiene and discipline are most important and shaving their head just makes things much easier. easier

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DESIGN, ART & CREATIVITY VITY

December 2008

The Fifties and Sixties saw a time of glamour and elegance with the war at an end. Women could now spend more time and effort on their hair. It was during this period where the business of hairdressing became popular and women started visiting hair salons on a weekly basis for the ‘shampoo and set’. Hair began to suffer abuse and was teased, teased, sculpted, sprayed, permanently waved and forced into perfectly formed curls. The hairstyle trend for men took on a major change in the mid 1950s with the influence of their idols Elvis and James Dean. Greased black hairdos were slicked back severely on on the sides with liberal use of Brylcreme and this confection terminated at the nape of the neck becoming a V-shape, V shape, which is known as a Ducktail. The King’s influence was colossal and affected men’s hairstyles for many years to come. come Through him, men weree much more conscious about the way they look. More men started taking care of their hair as they tried to copy him and it was there and then where the important role that hairstyles play in a person’s appeal was acknowledged by many.

During the 1970s,, personal expression was the key to a great hair style. Groovy looks explored personal values and individuality rather than society’s expectations, and both men and women embraced more natural styles with longer locks less tamed by hair products or overzealous scissors. Funky looks were also popular, particularly for trendy, younger individuals, and offered another way to express one’s personality. Even conservative shag hair styles or flirty bobs had room for personal p expression in the 1970s. The Seventies were basically the th era of long hair. The hippies wore their hair long and black people decided they wanted to do it too. While the hippies’ hair hung down, black people’s hair went in all direction. This is known as the ‘Afro’ hairstyle. The ‘Afro’ looked so neat that whitee people started getting perms so they could have it too.

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DESIGN, ART & CREATIVITY VITY

December 2008

of choice in styles and trends. People were no The 1980s saw less constraints and more freedom of longer prepared to conform to a set image image and many variances occurred. On one hand, the ‘Power dressers’ emerged and graced the he high streets – immaculate women with strong tailored clothes and meticulously ticulously groomed hairstyles. The ‘long bob’ was highly favoured – precisely precis cut and evenly curled under. A good hairdresser was an essential part of a woman’s life. The rebellious crowd on the other hand were busy following Madonna’s ever-changing ever changing style and were willing to sport unconventional, choppy off-coloured coloured hairdos, hairdos, to match their unconventional, eccentric clothing.

Men on the other hand were very minimalist in their approach approa – shaved heads ds being the order of the day. In fact anything over an inch was deemed long and there was a new trend for products. Prior to the late eighties men had made do with shampoo alone, or occasionally pinched the girlfriends hair gel but the ‘new man’ image encouraged companies to produce all kinds of new products for men. With new all--male male packaging of men’s toiletries it became completely acceptable for men’s bathrooms to sport as many products as females. From the 50s to the 80s, fashion hairstyle hairstyle changed dramatically along with the society. Neat and rigid hairstyles were left in the past and were replaced with trendy, funky styles. From this progress in hairstyles alone, it is obvious how people’s attitude have changed over the decades. As the society opens up, so does people’s mindset, well expressed through their fashion. Again, in just a couple of generations, hairstyling went to the extreme and peaked in the 80s. From the Nineties onward, hairstyle trends are constantly changing and pretty much anything are acceptable. In conclusion, wee have come a long way from the Edwardian era and the world today is definitely very much different from what it was a century ago. As we have seen, changes in hairstyle fashion are subjected to countless variables. Without knowing what lies ahead of us, it will be impossible to predict where hairstyle fashion will be in the next decade or so. What is definite is that our hairstyle had and always will define who we are and our character character or attitude. A person’s hairstyle essentially tells a story. A story about oneself, one’s life and one’s one’s beliefs.

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