Taste 10

JAKARTA & BALI CULINARY PROFESSIONAL NEWSLETTER SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER 2009

Andrew Zimmern

Discovers Bali Voices from the lands of

Chocolate and Coffee

| FREE

RAW FOOD REVEALED

Royal

Condiments

presidents’ message

TASTE

TASTE

team

contents 5. President’s Message

editorial consultant Sarah Dougherty

6. Short Order - What’s New

contributors

8. A Raw Treat at Como Shambhala

Kora, Marco Rucola, Katrina Valkenburg, Es Dee, Kayti

coordinator & marketing

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Miranti Amandya

10. Ary’s Warung writes the book on contemporary Indonesian food 12. Andrew Zimmern on Bizarre Food

photographers Dewandra, Sarah

14. Cold Smoking at Mozaic

graphic designers

16. Drop in for afternoon tea

DeKa

distribution Gede Sudiartawan, Arif Junaidi

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24. Raw Nature spotlights zucchini

office BCP Secretariat (attn. Kathryn) Travel Works Communication International Jl. Kesari no. 60a, Sanur 80223, Bali, Indonesia Tel: 62 – 361 – 284095 Fax: 62 – 361 – 270189 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.balichefs.com

18. Voices from the lands of Chocolate and Coffee

26. Wine Matters. 28. Aman introduces a new wine list

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29. Royal sambal features at Bali Safari Park. 30. Farmer’s Markets in Sydney 32. Dining out in Lombok 34. BCP lunches 37. Young Chefs Update 38. Chefs Day Out

pre press & printing by PT. Dian Rakyat TASTE Newsletter can be downloaded at www.balichefs.com

4 TASTE | September - October 2009

Cover photograph of Vietnamese daikon rolls from Como Shambhala Created by Chris Miller and Dewa Wijaya Photo by Dewandra Djelantik

Dear friends and culinary colleagues,

Dear Culinary Members,

It seems that as soon as one major event is behind us there are more coming. Apart from working behind the scenes with the BCP committee on new membership and new committee members, our work with the wider community also continues. In September Darren Lauder and Vindex Tengker, President of ACP Jakarta, will travel to Bangkok for the WACS (World Association of Chefs Society) Asia Forum. This is a chance for Indonesia to join with other Asian Culinary organizations. The Forum is a chance for Presidents to connect with each other and discuss upcoming events. Chef Andrew Skinner has been working together with his Bulgari team, Wayan Wicaya and commi Alex Tamuhardja on their upcoming Global Chef entry. The ingredients will be released later this month and then intense practice sessions will begin in anticipation of the trip to Santiago Chile next January. Sponsorship is now being sought and finalised and the list of members and friends who would like to attend the event is encouraging. We are all looking forward to it. We have accepted an invitation to cook in Singapore during the Asia On The Edge festival where seven chefs will participate in a culinary display that will end with a gala dinner. The event will be held from September 24 to 27. Representing us will be young Chef, Jason from Bali’s Hu’u Restaurant. We have seen a lot of rapid change in the last few months and lots of new chefs taking up key positions in Bali, this is great for our industry as new blood keeps us evolving creatively and means our industry remains vibrant. I feel this is a most exciting time in Bali’s culinary journey and appreciate all the support we receive from members and sponsors.

Happy 64th Independence Day of Indonesia, during the month of August most of our activities for ACP in Jakarta focused on Indonesian Culinaire starting with Pangan Nusa at Jakarta Convention Center where 21 provinces presented specialties from their regions. This event are held by the Department of Trade, BPEN, the National Export council, and coordinated through ACP and the support of culinary experts such as William Wongso, Bondan Winarno, Tuty Soenardi and Emma Wirahadikusuma. Mrs Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, wife of Indonesia’s President visited the event. On 9 August we were also invited to judge the Betawi Food competition for the women’s association PKK from the regions of DKI Jakarta at the Taman Mini Indonesia Indah. ACP also organised the 1st Indonesian Master Chocolate Competition, which was held at the Jakarta Food Expo Kemayoran in conjunction with Interfood Exhibition during August. The winner of the competition was Borobudur Hotel Pastry Team who received a trophy and US$1000. The competition followed similar rules as the Asian Pastry Cup but focused on Chocolate Show Pieces and Chocolate cake/ desserts only. There were 11 teams from Hotels, Restaurant and Bakeries from Jakarta one from Solo, Kobayashi Bakery that won the 2nd place of US$ 750. We also sent teams to Food Hotel Malaysia, which was held at the Kuala Lumpur Convention Center from 11-14 August 2009. The team was lead by Rahmat Kusnedi together with 2 artists, 1 hot cooking chef and 1 pastry chef. This September, we will send our representative team to Culinary Competition in Bangkok from 4-6 September and we will be participating at the Vietnam Expo for an Indonesian Food Exhibition and Cooking Demo from 24- 27 Sept at the Hanoi Convention center. At the end, let me wish “Selamat Menunaikan Ibadah Puasa” to all members of ACP and BCP who will be celebrating the fasting month starting the end of August. Let the spirit of peace and harmony lead us all to the true meaning of friendship and unity among us especially all the culinarians around the world.

Regards to you all, Made Putra President BCP

With Culinary Regards, Vindex Tengker President ACP

Taste Magazine As the island breathes a sigh of relief following the August party season, we look forward to a new season of culinary excellence. In this issue we seek the perfect antidote to high season with an extraordinary degustation dinner at Como Shambhala and we talk to Janet De Neefe from Ubud Writer’s Festival about the food focus for the upcoming festival in October. We travel to Sydney to check how the farmer’s markets are driving innovations in the

food industry and we also check on how Aman Resorts is managing to create a great wine program, despite the limitations with imports. BCP hosted some great events in recent months and we have the photos. The young chefs have been busy and one of our young chefs has the opportunity to represent Bali in Singapore next month. Taste strives to bring you the best of our culinary industry with every issue, we hope you enjoy this one. September - October 2009 | TASTE 5

short orders

short orders

Raising The Bar

A Lighter Shade of Pale

Ayana Resort have big shoes to fill as the former Ritz Carlton but if the startlingly located Rock Bar, opened in July is any indication, they are making great strides. Perched on the edge of the cliff, Ayana hosted a huge crowd of media, travel and tourism operators and invited guests to a dazzling preview of the new sunset venue. With a yacht positioned in the dramatic sea off the bar, a themed menu prepared by newly appointed chefs, free flow alcohol at the two glass bars and extraordinarily perched entertainers, the place rocked.

Hattens Wines turn 15 this September and plan to mark the event with the launch of their new labels. The local company that started small has made a big impact on the local wine scene and continues to struggle to meet demand. As rose is now finding favour as a fashionable tipple, Hattens expansion plans are well timed. With an Australian expert wine maker on the team, an exuberant sales team and a constant commitment to improving the quality and range, Hattens seems set to be a part of local dining for a long time to come. Hattens will celebrate on September 26.

Ayana Resort and Spa, Jimbaran. PH: (0361) 702222.

For enquiries PH: (0361) 767 422.

Kafe Warisan Meets Metis

Training The Trainer

It may only be around the corner but Kafe Warisan’s move to new premises with a new name and a new concept promises to take food lovers on a whole new journey. The incredibly successful team of Doudou and Said will be joined at Metis by French pastry chef Giles Delaloy, whose experience includes New York’s historic Waldorf Astoria and top-acclaimed CENA to most recently Singapore’s Ritz-Carlton Hotel. There are a lot of excited diners waiting for this new concept in dining to launch in October and plenty of chefs and F&B professionals among them.

The Rational oven has taken pride of place behind the counter in Gourmet Garages’s deli and featured in a number of their recent events. In-house chef Geoffrey Guanawan and his assistant Chris have signed up for the train the trainer series with Rational and are now conducting professional training sessions in the deli to compliment the schedule at Mozaic in Ubud. The pair recently went to Malaysia for further training and come back with an expanded reportoire. Live cooking demonstrations are planned regularly, and open a whole new world of possibilities. For information on scheduled sessions in Bali, contact Pieter at Lotus on (0361) 701650.

Bringing It Back Home It is endlessly fascinating that while Indonesia is one of the biggest suppliers of raw cacao, cocoa and cocoa butter, most of the crops are exported and then imported as quality chocolate. Tulip chocolate, one of the country’s biggest manufacturers of chocolate products has recently launched a 65% couverture chocolate that is designed to meet the imports head to head. Easimelt blend is made from cocoa from both Java and Ivory Coast and is priced competitively. Available now through major suppliers. For enquiries contact: [email protected]

6 TASTE | September - October 2009

Metis will open in Jl. Petitenget no. 6, Krobokan. info@ metisbali.com

Fonterra Announces WACS Sponsorship Fonterra Foodservices, the largest milk supplier in the world and responsible for more than a third of international dairy trade, has signed a two year contract as an official Silver Sponsor of the World Association of Chefs Societies, WACS. Fonterra’s support and commitment to the industry in Indonesia is also widely acknowledged. In recent months global ambassador and WACS Australia Pacific Director, Glenn Austin has toured the region meeting chefs and French pastry legend, Jean Francois Arnaud held pastry workshops in Jakarta and Bali for local chefs. Fonterra have a new supplier in Bali, PT. Indoprima Utama in Denpasar. For enquiries PH: (0361) 438 451. September - October 2009 | TASTE 7

A Raw Treat

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Chris Miller’s shopping list of luxury items might confuse some people into thinking it is his household grocery list, however for the Como Shambhala Estate’s Chef, who has become adept at creating raw food menus, avocados, parsnips, celeriac and brussel sprouts top his list of must haves. “We’re allowed to be a little extravagant,” he laughs. The luxury resort is a wellness retreat where clients are willing to pay premium prices to indulge in a healthy getaway. Chris has been with the Como group for eight years and has become comfortable with creating menus that address the health issues and combine creative techniques to ensure his guests don’t feel deprived. Dewa Wijaya and Chris Miller at Como Shambhala

Vietnamese Daikon Rolls with dipping sauce and dehydrated shallots

Red spinach and young coconut bakso with peanuts Heart of Palm and pineapple soup Balinese pure green urab Como Shambhala Pizza on Flexseed Cracker

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“Our regular menu at Como Shambhala includes raw food as well as vegetarian and Indonesian menus. Our guests know that if they have a weak moment we can always supply a burger or something a little more extravagant, but we get a lot of guests who are already committed to raw food or vegan diets” he says. While the regular menu does include some fish and chicken, the rule of thumb here is strictly ruled by nutritional values. Guests have access to a nutritionist as well as various therapists trained in Ayurvedic techniques as well as yoga, fitness and wellness. Once a month however a special menu is designed to tantalise guests and offer them a very special treat. It is a celebration of raw food that offers a surprising range of flavours and textures. Created together with local food guru Diana Von Cranach,

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who Chris describes as a dynamo, the pair challenge the senses and produce plates that look vibrant and sing with freshness. “It’s just like our mothers always told us, eat your fruit and vegetables.” Chris and his team, which include Executive Sous Chef Dewa Wijaya who he met during his first Como posting in Parrot Cay, are masters of presentation and subtle nuances in food. While most chefs struggle with satisfying vegetarian customers, there is plenty of inspiration here. Much of it is available in the adjoining gardens at Como Shambhala. “Our most recent menu combined a number of South East Asian influences, so there was a fair amount of chili, ginger and local spices. The rule with raw food is that it cannot be heated above 115 degrees. Where deep fried shallots are normally

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served in South East Asian dishes, the texture and crunch is provided by slowly dehydrating them instead.” Chris was hired from the kitchens of Sydney’s Rockpool where he worked with acclaimed Australian chef, Neil Perry. Initially the constraints of cooking within the confines of strict nutritional guidelines was a stretch but over time he has been inspired by the creative challenges. Bright eyed with clear skin and an abundance of energy, Chris claims he couldn’t eat like this all the time, “but a few days on a raw food diet makes you feel great.” The monthly raw food degustation menus are usually served over lunch. For reservations or information PH: (0361) 978888. Como Shambhala Estate, Begawan Giri is located in Banjar Begawan, Payangan, Gianyar.

September - October 2009 | TASTE 9

Ary’s Warung

Celebrates Contemporary Asian Recipes It seems there is a groundswell of interest in contemporary Indonesian cooking and Ary’s Warung have literally written the book.

Consulting Chef, Tristan Balian

In its history the famed Ubud warung, Ary’s has gone through many physical transformations but as an early pioneer of contemporary Balinese cooking, it will probably best be remembered. As proprietor Odeck travelled and fell under the influences of various culinary cultures his warung in Ubud also felt the winds of change. Through many chefs over more than two decades, Ary’s influence has been felt beyond Ubud, and what was once a revolutionary idea, has now entered mainstream culinary consciousness in Indonesia

Consulting Chef, Tristan Balian

10 TASTE | September - October 2009

and beyond. The recently released cookbook, ‘Contemporary Balinese Asian Cooking’ tells the story in words and pictures of some of the highlights over the years. The recipes have been chosen and adapted by the current consulting chef, Australian Tristan Balian from the archival recipes created over the last twenty-five years. “As our current Executive Chef we consulted with Tristan to choose a good compliment of recipes for the book and also to tailor them so they are achievable in home kitchens,” explains Tara, wife of Odeck and a driving force behind many of their enterprises. The book is brilliantly photographed by Rio Helmi and includes some wonderful writings that chronicle the history of both Ary’s Warung and food in Bali. The recipes and the book are fashionable, timely and speak eloquently of the effortless way Balinese food can be inspirational and beautiful in a contemporary dining environment. It is an idea that has been emerging throughout Indonesia and it is beautifully illustrated in this book. The book is available at Ary’s Warung and better bookstores across the island at around Rp 175,000. Ary’s Warung is located in the Ubud Main Street, PH: (0361) 975053. E: [email protected]

Consulting Chef, Tristan Balian

September - October 2009 | TASTE 11

The

BIZZARE TRUTH

The man who has travelled the globe and fascinated TV viewers with his daring gastronomic indulgences arrived in Bali fully prepared to be disappointed. He was not. I was standing in the midst of a group of Balinese men, splattered in pigs blood, my hands deep in lawar and it was at that moment I realised what Bali was all about. I fell in love with it.” Andrew Zimmern was a chef and restaurateur who set out to introduce the world to other cultures by way of food. The idea that became his show, “Bizarre Food”, came from a conviction that viewers would be attracted by his ability to swallow strange and foreign foods and meanwhile glimpse cultures that are, in many cases, off the map. “As a child I travelled a lot with my parents and their curiosity about the local cultures in the places we travelled to included sampling the local food. At six years old I was sitting with my father and his friends in a Paris bistro when they suggested I try the snails. The mind said disgusting but I wanted to be one of the boys, so I ate them. It was the beginning of a realisation that it is always worth a try, some things are not that bad,” he explains. In Bali for the first time to film part of his new series, “This Bizarre World” I have to ask what is so bizarre about this place? “That’s exactly what I mean. To you who live here all this becomes commonplace but elsewhere men slaughtering a live pig, pulling out the entrails to make a communal dish mixed with blood to serve at a ceremony where people voluntarily have their teeth filed down in a village clearing, seems well, weird.” Among the worst things he has 12 TASTE | September - October 2009

ever eaten is the stinky tofu that is common in Taiwan. He says the two day old is bad enough, but the tofu they marinate for fourteen days in a 10 year old vegetable juice is positively horrendous. He had to travel to a far flung fishing village in Iceland to have one of the other top five most disgusting dishes ever – the meat of a shark that has been buried in dirt. “It is marinated in its own pee and has to be timed well as in the stages right after it has died it is poisonous,” he explains. One of the strengths of his show is that he gets right in there and experiences it. He spends time with the people he visits and does what they do, it’s experiential he says and it is through the people and their every day life, as well as the food they eat, that viewers discover cultures other than their own. And what were the most surprising foods he discovered in his travels? “Among the best things I have eaten, of the bizarre kind, include the black donkey, the kudu, which is a special treat in China, delicious, and I would kill sometimes for the porcupine skin and fat they roast over a cone of fire in the African bush. As a chef, I know I am not far off the mark when I say something is really, really good.” Andrew Zimmern releases his new book in September, called The Bizarre Truth: How I went out the door and came back shaking my head. The Indonesia episoldes of his new show will air next year on Travel and Living.

Smokin’ at Mozaic

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Gadgets galore are employed in the state of the art kitchen of Mozaic where some of the island’s most seductive food is prepared. One item however that is usefully employed cost a mere Rp3million and is the creation of Chef de Cuisine, James Ephraim and the maintenance man at the much awarded restaurant. 3

Chef James Ephrain cold smoking salmon in Mozaic’s herb garden

14 TASTE | September - October 2009

Cold Smoking is a process that James has employed in former jobs in both England and New Zealand, a process which he has applied to everything from fois gras to oranges to amazing effect. “I literally drew a rough picture of a smoker and gave it to one of our maintenance staff and really didn’t expect it to happen,” laughs James. However, happen it did and in the 8 months that the smoker has been employed in the herb garden attached to the Mozaic’s culinary school it has inspired many of the restaurant’s menu items. Employing three separate chambers, one for the fire which generates the smoke, the second for the ice which cools the smoke and the third to hold the food, the smoker imparts flavour as opposed to cooking the food. “We can flavour the smoke by using different woods and even herbs. Coffee wood is one I like,

passionfruit leaves can be added, anything really, it adds a depth of flavour to the food which is then prepared in various ways to create the end result,” he continues. Cold smoking fois gras was an experiment that James believes adds a subtle flavour to the liver which is then pan seared before serving. Pork belly gets the treatment and he has even experimented with fruit, in one case creating an orange sorbet from the fruit he had smoked. “We have tried it with vegetables, fruit, meat, poultry and all things. A lot of our menu is prepared using sous-vide technique, cold smoking the food first results in more flavour. Our salmon is cold smoked and then prepared as a confit to order, the texture is like butter and the taste is wonderful. We also do our tomatoes this way, smoked first with salt and thyme and then dried in the oven,” he continues. Cold smoking is a technique that

1 Cold-smoked Salmon confit 2 foie gras tapas trio 3 feathers trio tapas plate

has been employed creatively at Mozaic to great effect, and best of all it is simple to use, effective and as gadgets go, very economical. The award-winning Mozaic Restaurant and Lounge is located on Jl. Raya Sangginan, Ubud. PH: 975768.

September - October 2009 | TASTE 15

café couture

Tea Invades Coffee Country?

To go from old to new, we can start with Bali Kopi Butterfly Brand which has always had tea – a nice variety of black teas from Java which have taken a back seat to their main coffee business. You can find a substantial selection at the old headquarters (circa 1930’s) on Jl. Gadja Mada in Denpasar near Jl. Sulawesi (they also have great cappuccinos there if you’re tired of shopping!) as well as at the main wet market of Pasar Badung. Their teas are also available at Kopi House Bali on the Sanur By Pass. Newer on the scene, dating from 1991 is Dharma Tea. This company sells a large selection of black, green, white teas and herbal infusions. Dharma Tea’s list of customers who are happy with their goods is long and impressive. A promotional package includes samples, explanations of individual teas as well as suggested ‘menus’ and information about production. Advisor Kib Roby is always happy to talk to potential tea drinkers about individual teas or

Well, it almost seems like that these days. Suddenly we have tea all over the place with so many great choices it is hard to think of coffee (excluding non tea drinking coffee addicts, of course).

restaurant set ups so it is natural that many of our up market establishments offer this brand. Speaking of which, Dharma Teas are also found amongst the other teas at Biku in Pettitenget. Biku also has specialty teas imported from China and India as well as their own private blends. Owner/manager Ibu Asri has enlisted the aid of her tea expert son to set up what has to be one of the most atmospheric tea houses possible. Located in an old antique building (ex antique store), Asri has made this tea house into a great place to relax and enjoy tea and a meal at any time – breakfast, lunch or dinner. You can also browse through books and cards in the branch of Ganesha Books or bring a backgammon game to play in the ‘living room’ area or have your tea leaves read of a Sunday. Biku also does special groups so those with birthdays or anniversaries are always welcome. In Bali, the afternoon high tea was first established here at Biku for us lucky ones and comes with de

rigueur scones, jam and all the other goodies. Now Ubud has its tea house too in The West End Café, just a short distance from the Neka Museum on Jl Raya Sanggingan. Newly opened on July 1, the café is light and airy with hand painted wall areas and lovely peaceful colors. An outside verandah is perfect for tea drinking smokers. Open for lunch and afternoons, West End serves the famous British Cream Tea of scones and jam as well as Afternoon Tea. And of course they have sandwiches and salads as well. Note that it is closed on Sundays. On the main road into Ubud where you turn left at the statue and go down the road, on the upswing on the left is Kue, a lovely chocolatier and bakery, where they now also serve afternoon tea. Cafe closes at 3pm. So, is this a movement away from coffee to the more healthful tea? Coffee drinkers will never agree, but then look at what has happened to smokers!!!

Perfect Scones with Jam & Cream Scone recipes are often jealously guarded, with many cooks claiming they have perfected the recipe. After exhaustive research at Taste magazine, we agree with Gourmet Traveler Magazine, these are the lightest, most perfect scones of the many recipes we have tried. Cooks may want to adjust the salt to your personal taste. Take note, the dough is sticky! SERVES 12 Cooking Time Prep time 10 mins, cook 15 mins 600 ml pouring cream 40 gm raw caster sugar, plus extra for scattering 450 gm self raising flour, sifted pinch of salt

For brushing: milk To serve: jam To serve: crème fraîche or whipped cream Preheat oven to 190C. Whisk cream and sugar in an electric mixer to firm peaks (4-5 minutes). Stir in flour and salt until a soft dough forms, turn onto a well-floured surface, knead until smooth (2-3 minutes). Add extra flour if dough is sticky. Roll to 2cm thick on a well-floured surface, cut out rounds using a floured 5cmdiameter cutter. Place on a baking paper-lined oven tray, brush tops with milk and scatter lightly with extra sugar. Bake until risen and golden (10-15 minutes), serve warm or cold with jam and crème fraîche or lightly whipped cream.

Tea service at Biku September - October 2009 | TASTE 17

The Power

A PERFECT BLEND OF QUALITY & SERVICE

of The Pen

Evocative stories have been written about food since the pen was invented. Food has long held the power to inspire poetry and prose alike. This year’s Ubud Writers and Readers Festival will see masters of the culinary arts meet masters of the pen in a dynamic new addition to the event schedule. Food will play a special role in this year’s festival and will include two special events named respectively, “Voices from The Coffee Lands” and “Voices from the Chocolate Lands” and will feature menus highlighting two of the world’s most seductive ingredients. “It occurred to me that Indonesia is the land of coffee and chocolate, as we supply so much of it. It also seemed that many of our writers this year also came from lands that are producers of both. I thought why not combine the real life memories 18 TASTE | September - October 2009

of writers who share this common bond,” explains event founder, author and restaurateur Janet DeNeefe. Not only coffee and chocolate will be featured but also event menus created with various writers, many of whom are enthusiastic cooks themselves. “When I first started getting in touch to suggest this idea, I was surprised by the response. Many of our writers this year also love to cook and were very enthusiastic about presenting recipes from their home countries.” Through these events Janet is hoping to connect the food with the events and will work with her own staff and some of the island’s best chefs to create menus inspired by the writers attending this year’s festival. Ubud Writers and Readers Festival will feature from October 7-11 in various venues.

The products that meet your most demanding needs. The brands that are synonymous with long-lasting quality and efficiency. And the assurance of a customer-oriented business philosophy geared towards maximising your business potential. Ruiter Far East - where your business is our business. Blk 5 AMK Tech 2 #03 - 14 Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2A Singapore 567760 Tel: +65 64833022 ● Fax : +65 6234 0784 ● www.ruiter.com.sg

advertorial

It Has To Be Rational

©

Rational’s latest technology is now available throughout Indonesia and is supported by a full range of service and support options including live cooking demonstrations. As more of the island’s chefs put Rational to work in their kitchens. Here Penny Williams of Alila, Manggis tells us why Rational works for her.

1. What difference has Rational made in your kitchen?
 We have much more control when we are baking our breads and pastries as the RATIONAL© is very even cooking. Our guest satisfaction has risen as our product standard has risen. 2. Have you been able to be more creative using the technology?
 Yes it certainly widens your mind as your options widen.

 3. Was it challenging to master?


The only challenge was to learn to trust the oven! After working for so long with unreliable ovens it was hard to let go!! My staff especially were worried to let the oven take care! But after we worked out the programs they soon got the hang of it!
 4. What is your favorite function? The cleaning function! Being able to put the tablets in push the button and know that the job will be done and done well without

causing damage to the oven.
 5. Can you give us a dish you have successfully created with Rational, if possible?
 See recipe. The low temperature settings made it possible to make a meringue that is white and still deliciously soft in the centre. And the program will take care of it when we cook it over night, as this is the only time when we have no one needing the oven for 3 hours.

PT SOURCING BALI Jl. Gunung Salak 31a, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia. Tel +62 361 780 3981 +62 361 744 8025/35 Fax +62 361 430 683 [email protected] www.sb-he.com

Penny’s recipe:

Meringue with Lemon Curd, Passion Fruit and Organic Vanilla Ice Cream butter. DO NOT BOIL. 4. Remove and put into a plastic tub and cove with plastic wrap touching curd to stop skin 5. Cool VANILLA ICE CREAM 1 litre milk 1 litre cream 300 g caster sugar 20 pcs egg yolk 10 g Vanilla pod

LEMON CURD 4 Egg yolk 150 g Caster sugar 100 ml Lemon juice, Lemon kuning 60 g Butter dice, cold and cut into 1 cm 2 tsp Lemon zest, Grated METHOD: 1. Whisk yolks and sugar very well 2. Add lemon juice and zest 3. Cook in a bowl over hot water stirring all the time until thick, slowly adding the 20 TASTE | September - October 2009

Apply the finishing touch to your hotel, villa or restaurant with exciting new products from Hospitality Essentials. Visit our Kerobokan showroom to view more than a thousand sample items or pick up a copy of our 2009 catalogue for the complete solution to your interior and exterior needs.

METHOD: 1. Heat the milk, cream and scrapped vanilla pod unitl almost boiling 2. Whisk together the egg yolks and caster sugar 3. Pour a little ik mixture into the egg yolk mixture to losen 4. Pour this into the milk whisking well 5. Bring up to heat stirring with a spatula so not to create bubbles 6. Strain through a fine strainer 7. Cool quickly in fridge 8. Churn in an ice cream machine according to the manufacture’s instructions

MERINGUE 4 pcs Egg white 240 g Caster sugar, Warm 1/4 tsp Salt 1 tsp White vinegar 1/2 tsp cornflour METHOD: 1. Whisk the egg whites to a full peak 2. Mix all the dry ingredients together and slowly add to the egg whites 3. When all is added and the egg whites are smooth stiff and glossy add the vinegar 4. Make oval shapes using a kitchen spoon and place on baking paper 5. Bake in your Rational self cooking centre set on 90degrees for 15 minutes 6. Then turn it down to 60degrees and set the timer for 3 hours and cook over night. as the oven cools the meringues harden and stay safe our of the humidity until you come back after a good nights sleep knowing your Rational oven will take care!! To serve assemble and fill. For further information please contact: Millie Chan T.+65 9770 8820 E. [email protected] W. www.rational-ag.com

design update

Copper Essentials Hospitality Essentials has introduced a beautiful new range of hammered copper accessories. Copper is a favorite of many chefs around the world for cookware – and now, this beautiful metal is available in a wide range of accessories too. Included in the range is a wine bucket – perfect for tableside wine service, food presentation plates, chargers, candle holders, vases and a selection of small bowls. Available in a variety of colours and finishes; copper can add a unique accent to your presentation. Customers can choose from existing items within the Hospitality Essentials range or can custom design items to suit specific needs.

Hospitality Essentials, Jalan Gunung Salak 31A, Kerobokan, Bali - Indonesia. PH: +62 361 744 8025/35

Be playful

this season!

Thrilled to create a piece that’s not only functional but also fun and entertaining, Jenggala launches the new, amusing Wobble Mug. Designed by in-house designer, Fitorio Leksono, the Wobble Mug is true to its name as it features an extraordinary shape that allows it to roll on its base, yet stay up enough to be a functional drinking cup. You can spin, sway and wobble this cup on your table until gravity brings it back to reality. The new Wobble Mug collection features this unique shape in a buff surface on the outside and playful glossy colors on the inside. Let the Wobble Mug be a good companion to release stress and refresh your mood with its light friendly interaction on your table. Jenggala happily introduces a new, fun drinking experience with the amusing Wobble Mug.

News from Doctor Rocket’s Organic Farm

Raw Nature By Dr. Marco “RUCOLA” de Leonardis I have recently returned from my family’s home in Puglia, Southern Italy. The region is well know for it’s simple yet delicious food (cucina povera), incredible variety of fresh seafood, traditional homemade pastas and deeply red Primitivo wine. My family have been farmers for generations and along with farming comes a passion for the preparing and sharing the food we grow. My mother shared this intense passion with us as a young family and still to this day – when I arrive back from Bali to visit her at home she always has my favorite dishes prepared for a family feast. This trip was no exception and I arrived home to find a big platter of Zucchine alla Scapece, an all time summer favorite! This is one of the recipes I am sharing with you this issue. This has inspired me to write about the quintessential summer vegetable, the Zucchini, also know as Courgette in the US and France. Introduced to North America in the 1920s, the zucchini is a member of the cucumber family (cucurbitaceae), and produces long slender green or yellow vegetables, or sometimes round vegetables. The common name today is derived from Zucca which means squash in Italian, and the smaller vegetable varieties in Italian are called Zucchine. The two main types of squash are Winter Squash and Summer Squash. Summer squash (Zucchini, Patty Pat, Marrows) are harvested in the summer, have thinner skins and can be eaten lightly cooked or raw. Commonly known as Zucchini, they are scientifically fruits, but we refer to them as vegetables since they are generally eaten as a savory dish. The plants produce 2 types of flowers, 24 TASTE | September - October 2009

male and female, both of which are edible. The male flower is on the end of a slim stalk, whereas he female flower is attached to the zucchini fruit itself. Baby zucchini are a small and delicate, often sold with the flower attached. Male flowers are sold on their stems, in bunches and are slightly easier to handle. The mild tasting zucchini vegetable is low in calories (approximately 15 calories per 100g fresh zucchini) and contains great amounts of folate 24 mcg per 100g, which is associated with lower risks of vessel clogging and heart attack, also contains potassium 280 mg per 100g and vitamin A 115 mcg per 100g. 1/2 cup of zucchini also contains 19% of the recommended amount of manganese. Having a high water content is one of the most important health benefits of the zucchini, it is especially useful during hot summer days. The whole plant can be eaten, from the blossoms, the fruits (zucchini), the seeds and even the shoots and leaves! Globally the culinary diversity and usage of this summer vegetable is extremely widespread! Here is a sampling; Zucchini Fritata, a baked crustless quiche using zucchini, the

flower blossoms, egg and parmesan cheese; Fiori di Zucca Ripieni are fried, stuffed zucchini blossoms with anchovy and mozzarella, Zucchini Parmigiana is a layered baked dish similar to Parmigiana di Melanzane which uses fried eggplant instead; Italian Pasta Primavera; in the South of France the famous Ratatouille combines zucchini with other summer vegetables like tomatoes, peppers and onions; in Greece and the Middle East you will find lamb Stuffed Zucchini and they also make a delicious Zucchini pie using feta cheese, herbs and filo pastry; In Southern Italy the pasta dish which uses the shoots and leaves is know as Spaghetti con Tenerumi; In Spain the vegetable is used in a Zucchini Chocolate Cake; In Mexico their vegetable dish pairs zucchini with corn; and in North America the moist Zucchini Bread and Zucchini muffins are an everyday family favourite! At our Raw Nature Organic farm in Bali, we grow organic green and yellow zucchini, long or round, and patty pan squash, all sold with or without flowers. For details of our organic zucchini varieties available at the farm, see www.rawnaturefarms.com.

Zucchini Alla Scapece

Zucchini Carpaccio

At home we make this a day in advance, as it gives the zucchini plenty of time to absorb the flavors of the garlic, mint and vinegar. Cover the platter tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate, but be sure to let it sit at room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes before serving, as a side dish or salad.

The second recipe I would like to share with you, is one I prepared for my mother this time! Very easy and simple to prepare it is one of the most delicious ways to enjoy fresh zucchini. Once again the pairing of mint with zucchini is used, only this time there’s no frying involved! For this recipe we use the raw vegetable, and therefore it is more important than ever to insist on using chemical free Organic zucchini. As a light first course this dish can be prepared on individual plates or on a single large platter. If you use the zucchini blossoms, remove the pistils from the centre, and tear the delicate yellow petals into long shreds, wash them gently and pat dry.

(marinated zucchini)

INGREDIENTS • 1 cup of mixed olive and vegetable oil, for frying • 8 small or 5 medium fresh organic zucchini, cut crosswise on the diagonal into thin slices • 3 medium cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin • 1 box Doctor Rocket’s Organic Mint, leaves torn from sprigs, plus 1 whole sprig, for garnish • Sea salt • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar METHOD If the zucchini are really firm and fresh, then you can fry them immediately. If, however, you are using medium sized zucchini, I suggest you let the slices dry for a few hours in the sun before cooking them. Heat the oil in a large, deep skillet to about 375 degrees. Carefully fry the zucchini slices, in small batches for about 3 to 5 minutes, until golden brown on the bottom, gently turn the slices fry for 3 to 5 minutes on the second side, until tender and golden-brown. Use a wire mesh strainer or large slotted spoon to transfer the zucchini slices to the lined platter to drain. When the slices are cool, arrange them on a deep oval serving platter in a single layer, slightly overlapping. Scatter a few slivers of garlic and a several mint leaves. Sprinkle with a little salt, and drizzle a few drops over the layer of zucchini. Continue to fry the zucchini, layer them in the platter, topping each layer with the garlic, mint, salt and vinegar. Cover the platter loosely with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for at least 1 to 2 hours (or refridgerate overnight). Garnish the platter with a sprig of mint just before serving.

INGREDIENTS • 2 small organic green zucchini (blossoms removed – set aside for garnish) • 2 small organic yellow zucchini • 1 box Doctor Rocket’s Organic Mint, leaves torn from sprigs, plus whole sprigs for garnish • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice • Grated rind of half a lemon • 1/4 teaspoon sea salt • 1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted in a pan over medium heat with no oil for 2 minutes • 150gr piece Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano METHOD Cut zucchini length wise into paper-thin slices with Mandolin (or similar adjustable blade slicer) Arrange slices, overlapping slightly, in 1 layer on 4 plates. Make stacks of mint leaves and cut crosswise into very thin slivers, then sprinkle over zucchini. Whisk together oil and lemon juice in a small bowl, then drizzle over zucchini. Sprinkle with sea salt, pepper to taste, lemon rind and pine nuts. Let stand 10 minutes to soften zucchini and allow flavors to develop. Just before serving, use a vegetable peeler to shave cheese to taste over zucchini, then sprinkle with torn zucchini blossoms and mint sprigs.

September - October 2009 | TASTE 25

wine story

Champagne

Liquid Aphrodisiac By Katrina Valkenburg Every time I spy a squat, sexy Champagne bottle it makes me feel extremely titillated and slightly naughty - it’s a promise of a good night, or a good morning, for that matter.

In the heady days of the 80s in Australia, when good Champagne cost less than a bucket of prawns, I veritably drowned in this liquid aphrodisiac. There was an abundant choice in all but the humblest wine shop and the decision came down to ogling the bulging fridges and asking “which of you effervescent beauties wants to grace our palates tonight?” It was not so much the price that swayed me but more the label – tried and true brands were always more likely to appeal. These, of course, included Bollinger, Moet et Chandon, Veuve Cliquout, Pol Roger, Lanson to name but a few. And then the market became more sophisticated and the number of brands imported grew exponentially along with the local and international sparkling wines. Many of the highend domestic sparkling wines offered their own unique selling proposition but generally speaking most tried to emulate the flavour spectrum of Champagne. Champagne is a place – a region of France - and it is because of this that no sparkling wine outside of this region has the right to be named Champagne. However, many people still call sparkling wine Champagne and that same consumer will call it French Champagne when they want 26 TASTE | September - October 2009

the good stuff. Many of the wine regions of the world produce extremely good sparkling wines made in the same manner as those made in Champagne – Méthode Champenoise – including Australia, Spain, Italy, Germany, Chile, North America, England, New Zealand and France. There are three classic grape varieties used in the production of traditional sparkling wines (as in Champagne). • Pinot Noir – a black grape that adds backbone, fullness, weight and length to the wine and adds depth to the back of the palate. • Chardonnay – a white grape that adds finesse, elegance and fullness to the front palate. • Pinot Meunier – a black grape used to give the wine fruitiness and roundness that integrates well with the previous varieties. There are many different styles of Champagne and sparkling wines on the market including: Prestige Cuvee A cuvée de prestige is a proprietary blended wine (usually a Champagne) that is considered to be the top of a producer’s range.

Blanc de noirs A French term (literally “white of blacks”) for a white wine produced entirely from black grapes – generally made from pinot noir and occasionally from pinot meunier. Blanc de blancs A French term that means “white of whites”, and is used to designate Champagne or sparkling wine made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes. Rosé Rosé Champagne and sparkling wines are produced either by leaving the clear juice of red grapes to macerate on its skins for a brief time or, more commonly, by adding a small amount of still pinot noir red wine to the sparkling wine cuvee. Vintage Vintage Champagne or sparkling wine is made entirely from one vintage. Generally speaking, choice is dependent on budget and personal preference. But one thing is for sure; Champagne and sparkling wine give a sense of occasion that calls for sharing your good fortune with the people you love.

Which of you effervescent beauties wants to grace our palates tonight?

Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elizabeth Salmon

This top-end Rosé Champagne was recently tasted at the Bulgari Hotel at a Billecart-Salmon dinner. A standout Champagne that has the fragrance of fresh rose petals, tastes like the most delicate of dishes and feels literally like angels waltzing on your tongue. Contact: Agung Sri Antari ([email protected]), Lotus Distribution: (0361) 701650 or Simone Baldwin ([email protected])

Jacquesson Cuvée 733 NV

Founded in 1798, Jacquesson stakes the claim as the oldest independent Champagne house. A relative newcomer to the list of fine Champagne available in Indonesia, this attractive wine has an elegant yet full flavour with good structure and weight. Contact: Agung Sri Antari ([email protected]), Lotus Distribution: 0361 701650 or Simone Baldwin ([email protected])

Undurrugga Demi Sec

A soft, delicate, semi dry sparkling wine made from Chardonnay grapes from the Maipo Valley. This is a drink anytime, anywhere, refreshing wine that would be perfect as an aperitif or dessert but possibly even better at breakfast. Contact: Anom Adnyana ([email protected]), PT Indowine (0361) 8477232

Katrina Valkenburg is a wine educator, consultant & writer. Email: [email protected]

September - October 2009 | TASTE 27

Crystal at work

Amanusa

WINE STARS at Aman Resorts Startling how good a simple grilled chicken salad can be in the right circumstances; accompanied by a fine bottle of Italian white, perched atop a sweeping view for instance.

At Aman Resorts from this time on, the wine dilemma is being solved by a new worldwide wine buying program that will see each of the resorts, including those in Indonesia, coming up with creative and well priced wine lists that are a pleasure to peruse. Travelling the world, visiting winemakers, sampling lesser known wines in search of value and quality is the job of head sommelier, Crystal Edgar as part of a new program aimed at injecting some creativity, originality and quality into the menu. A breath of fresh air for many of the Asian properties that are subject to random circumstances at times. “We are passionate about creating approachable wine lists that are easy to follow and lead to discovery. Each bottle has been hand-picked from an array of artisanal producers around the world who represent the core values of the Aman experience: quality, craftsmanship, uniqueness and passion,” explains Crystal. The sommelier, who is based in 28 TASTE | September - October 2009

Beijing, once dreamed of being a chef. Attending Culinary School in New York she was introduced to wine through a six week intensive course that all students were required to do. “It started me thinking that perhaps this might be a career for me. Once I left school and started to travel I became more interested. To me it is a link between the dining room and the kitchen,” she continues. The wine we enjoyed during our lunch at Amanusa was a little known Italian white from Il Palagione called Hydra. Crystal explains that her travels take her all over the world and bring her into contact with many wine makers. “This particular wine is created using vernaccia grapes, a traditional Italian variety, but the wine maker tends to create twists on the classics.” The challenges associated with wine supply in Indonesia have been carefully navigated and Boga Citra, one of the country’s most reliable importers, was chosen as their local partner to ensure that the wine arrives

at the resorts in peak condition. Crystal tailors the wine lists at different properties, dictated by the weather and to take into account local preferences. An average list will consist of anywhere from 70 to over 100 varieties. The list will include a few bottles of special vintage or private collection wines and range in price from reasonable to wow! (Local taxes in Indonesia and other Asian countries mean wines that start out reasonably priced often end up not so on our tables.) For Indonesian properties in particular, the introduction of the Aman wine program is fantastic news. Content as we have become to wine lists created from what’s available as opposed to what’s good, Aman may find their restaurants full to the brim with wine drinkers who will happily pay for increased choice, quality and the opportunity to sample an unknown wine with the knowledge it has been hand picked and its quality is assured.

Sambal in the works

Royal Condiments The kingdoms of Bali are magical, steeped in history and myths. They are also the source of much of Bali’s exciting and authentic culinary heritage. It was therefore a rare privilege to be invited to the unveiling of the Kingdom of Karangesam’s sambal festival held during August at Taman Safari and Marine Park. Our own Taste photographer Dewandra Djelantik is the son of the royal line and it was his mother, Dewi Indrawati Djelantik wife of the current head of the family Anak Agung Made Dewandra Djelantik, who worked with the chefs at Taman Safari to bring an assortment of 30 sambals that have floated in and out of imperial fashion over the last two centuries. Executive Chef at the Park, Mahadi, was familiar with about half of these recipes he claims as a result of working together with Heinz Von Holzen at Grand Hyatt during discovery for his

first book on Balinese cuisine. Some of the other recipes however are rarely seen anymore and have fallen out of favour, as a result of changing tastes. It is astounding to the uninitiated how many flavours can be achieved by combining ingredients which are used every day in local households – from coconuts to mangos to ingredients that are unfamiliar to foreigners, like pangi, that simply fall off the trees. The festival was a great success with guests who had the chance to see the sambals being prepared as well as sample them with a simple dish of rice. Taman Safari park is located on Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus mantra Km. 19.8, Gianyar. PH: (0361) 950000.

Dewi Indrawati Djelantik with General Manager Hans

Chef Mahadi with a guest September - October 2009 | TASTE 29

market driven 1

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Taking it to

The Streets Almost every chef will tell you that his food is only as good as his ingredients. With the popularity of Farmer’s Markets growing across the Western World, market food is showcasing great ingredients without the fuss, and is inspirational on a grass roots level.

30 TASTE | September - October 2009

Once a month, Sydney’s Good Food market at Pyrmont close to Sydney Harbour, sponsored by The Sydney Morning Herald, is a major attraction for food lovers. With producers from all over the state setting up stalls and showcasing their products, there are also some great opportunities to taste the products, many of which are prepared simply to highlight the flavours and textures. Anything goes; from asparagus to kangaroo. Many local chefs make the trip to find specialist products and search for anything new and different. Sydney’s Kings Cross Market is a microcosm of the larger event. Held every week the market attracts growers, artisan producers, hobby farmers, bakers and bread makers. The stalls offering baked goods and hot food are testament to the quality and variety available. One stall where there is always a queue is run by a former lawyerturned-homemaker who set up a weekly market stall selling egg and bacon rolls. These are so good that

even the radio jocks will advise you to get down there on a Saturday morning. Using finely sliced, honeysmoked bacon and free-range eggs that slowly dribble brilliant orange yolk down your arm as you bite through the fluffy ciabatta-style roll, there are people who will tell you this is the world’s best bacon and egg roll. The coffee is ground and freshly made as you order using organic beans from Australian growers and is another incredibly popular stall, created by Toby’s Estate. Brasserie Breads is the off-shoot of the ever-popular Sydney restaurant Bayswater Brasserie. When chef Tony Pappas turned his hand to creating artisan breads, Sydney cheered. Using his original starter, his San Franciscostyle sourdough varieties are piled high. With the characteristic bubbled crust, they come in unbleached white, wholemeal, and spelt. One of their most popular loaves is studded with whole cloves of caramelised garlic. Their small assortment of cakes, dense chocolate brownies and apple

crumble pies are moist and tasty and especially good as the weather cools. A van is equipped as a butcher stall and offers high quality fresh meat from the best suppliers including the 1824 angus, kobe and wagyu beef distributed in Indonesia by Sukanda Djaya. Fish fresh from the sea, a incredible range of local and imported cheese sit beside. A small producer who has recently launched a range of gluten-free products is featuring freshly baked pizzas using their gluten free bases while alongside, tables groaning with produce, both organic and not, picked fresh for the market, makes this a compact gourmet paradise. There is still room for tradition and the ever-present Turkish gozleme stall is busy as usual. With the female members of the family, scarfed and aproned, kneading and throwing the oily, elastic dough which is then passed over to the man of the house who fills them with savoury fillings like spinach and fetta (or a variety of

hard white cheese), savoury mince and chicken or a combination, and then folds and lays them on the flat grill plate, cooks them crisp before cutting them into eight portions to be served simply with pieces of lemon. The bakers are always busy; with small hobby bakers starting their prep three days before the markets and offering beautiful displays of flourless organic cakes, tarts filled with custard and berries or caramelised apples, home-style cookies and delicate iced cakes which are sold whole or in slices. Reflecting the seasons is a role the market plays and orchard owners pile this season’s apples high while summer brings the stone fruit growers out. Around the world the growth of markets is offering food lovers a chance to connect with producers and sample food that is simply prepared but wonderful in translation. It is the food of the streets and often provides the inspiration for food of a finer type.

6

1 Gluten free, dairy free, healthy feast 2 The best bacon and egg roll? 3 Tony Pappas, Brasserie Bread 4 Purka Estate showcase oils and vinegar 5 Fresh from the farm 6 Turkish gozleme

September - October 2009 | TASTE 31

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Fine Dining in Gili T

Gili Trawangan is a little island with a big reputation and is fast becoming a major destination in itself. The only thing missing is an upmarket restaurant, now that too has arrived.

White table cloths, silver service and a menu brimming with contemporary seafood dishes, imported beef, vibrant salads, spectacular desserts and Asian classics are unexpected on the famously casual Lombok island. Former Sydney chef Matthew Blundell was content to leave the kitchens as he and his partner Di,Somerton, together with lawyer and seafood enthusiast Made Ramlie, ran the busy beachside hotel and restaurant at The Beach House. A new venture, Ko Ko Mo Villas however called for a new restaurant concept and so Matthew found himself going back through some of his favourite menus to invent a fine dining concept 32 TASTE | September - October 2009

for the little Gili. “Ko Ko Mo has been a great success from the start,” explains Di, “and Matthew trained a whole new kitchen crew, including our Executive Sous Chef, Barkun, to create a menu that is contemporary with lots of seafood and a little bit of Sydney.” Matthew is known to many in Sydney for his years cooking in some of the city’s favourite hangouts, including Mario’s in East Sydney, a lunch time legend in Sydney during the ‘80’s, as well as the Cauldron, the intimate restaurant come nightclub for a discerning clientele. Following a successful stint with his own Double Bay restaurant Matthew

Looked to expanding his business prospects in Sydney, until a chance conversation saw him and his partner, Di upping stakes and moving to Lombok. “I have been involved with the food at The Beach House since the beginning but haven’t been too hands on in the kitchen until now.” Explains Matthew. As Executive Chef as well as part owner of the boutique villa resort, Ko Ko Mo, Matthew says this was a great project as it is the first time he has been able to design the kitchen he wanted. “In the past I’ve always walked into an existing kitchen. This time I was able to design around a concept,

which included the creation of the menu, an open kitchen that works perfectly for the restaurant from breakfast through to dinner.” “When I conceived the menu I looked back through all the years and chose my favourites from a list of specials. I then went through each item with my sous chef and the team of cooks. The results are great, I’m really happy.” Another business that Matthew and business partner Made Ramlie are involved in is seafood export and the menu refects that with a great range of fresh seafood and daily specials including lobster pasta, a signature seafood broth, selections of sashimi,

a wonderful stuffed rainbow trout served in a seafood bisque and fresh local catch. The restaurant sits beside the sea with a spectacular view and no matter how many tables the staff lay outside there is always a demand for more. Timing and location combined with style and experience have created a new concept for Gili T that has proved a stunning success.

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1 Peking Duck entree 2 steak tartare 3 Behind the bar 4 Asian style seafood broth 5 Fresh strawberry dacquoise 6 Matthew and Di

Ko Ko Mo, Gili Trawangan, Lombok, PH: +62 (0) 370 644169 Mob: +62 (0) 813 3974 7459 [email protected] September - October 2009 | TASTE 33

At St. Regis

One of the most anticipated lunches on this year’s calendar was without doubt the St Regis Resort’s lunch. The Yak’s Chef of the year, among his many other accolades, put together a stunning menu that showcased the akill of this kitchen team. Boneka was the venue of choice for the lunch with a capacity crowd pouring in for a suitably memorable lunch.

At Mama’s

Mama’s German Restaurant in Kuta was a change of pace from the many hotel lunches BCP have hosted. The Legian restaurant is a lelgend in this area with the second generation now taking an active role in the business. Showcasing the many products the company produces including a wide range of sausages and salamis, members and guests enjoyed cold beer, barbecue and plenty of pork.

BCP Membership 2009 NAME

COMPANY

NAME

COMPANY

Josef Zopf Vynna Indra Arry Afianto Hendra Noviar Amier David Smith Olaf Aistleitner Alexander Erich Attila Koermoeczi Adrianto Pramudya Bevan Ketut Sukamara Endris Yuliawati Isabella Lin Peter Rieger Torsten Schubert Sugihanto Sachid Franky Alexander I Wayan Budiarsa Nyoman Sudiarna Andrew Skinner Heinz Von Holzen Dennis Langlois Bayu Lagimin Dhany Parwanto I Gde Rastarama Ing Gerold Eichinger I Nyoman Wirata I Nyoman Candra AA Rai Gunawan Iwan hari Cahyo Ni Made Suwartini Made Sebastian Suanda Johan Meyers Terry Deweer Eko Putranto Ernst Jaeck Wayan Widiana Saptono Sang Ketut Jiwa Leony Rossalia Hartono Philip Parfait Jason Vito Suwantika Bill Marinelli Arie Sumartini Rositha Wardhani Thierry Brocard I Nyoman Parwata Sarita Sanowi Wendy Jane Thomas Ralf Schmidt I Gusti Nyoman Jaya Markus Reichl Ayu Suharyani Bill Busch Henny Santoso Jeff Matthews Yannis Van Heckerer Hidayat Ketut Sumatra Christopher J Salans Juergen Domani Katarina Sari I Made Sudana Stefan Mueller

Aerowisata Catering Service Alam boga Alam boga Alam boga Alam boga Arena Sport Café Aston Kuta Ayodya resort Bahana Gourmet Indonesia Bahana Gourmet Indonesia Bali Golf and Country Club Balivillas.com Balivillas.com Balivillas.com Banyan Tree Maldives Bapak Bakery Buana Agung Lestari Buana Agung Lestari Buana Agung Lestari Bulgari Bumbu Bali Carrefour Classic Fine Foods Classic Fine Foods Classic Fine Foods CV Raja Bamboo Discovery Kartika Plaza Discovery Kartika Plaza Discovery Kartika Plaza Discovery Kartika Plaza Discovery Kartika Plaza Discovery Kartika Plaza DP Kitchen DP Kitchen Ecolab Grand Hyatt Bali Grand Hyatt Bali Grand Hyatt Bali Griya Santrian Hotel Holiday Inn Hu’u Bali Hu’u Bali Ikan Segar Bali Ikan Segar Bali Ikan Segar Bali Indoguna Bali Indoguna Bali Indoguna Bali Kevala Ceramics Kori Restaurant Kori Restaurant Legian Beach Hotel Lotus Distribution Lotus Distribution Lotus Distribution Mandara Spa Mannekepis Bistro Megah Food Trading Melia Benoa Mozaic Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Nikko Bali Resort & Spa

Darren Lauder I Ketut Mudana I Gusti Agung Alit Subawa Reto Victor Torriani Ni Ayu Winarmi Christian Gerart Ketut Pong Atmajaya Wayan Nurisa John Taylor Ian Roberts Kadek Widiantara Jahn Roger Jimmy Julianto Dewi Rusmala Carlos Vinas Barmona Haryanto Mulia Adrianto Mulia Ni Wayan Santo Asih Winyoto Dienly Wong Simon Yap Anik Purwati Mahesa Dentha Ida Ayu Sutamaya Jayadi I Made Manahara Izwantini Rusli C.J. Lokman Neeta Malhotra Made Budiasa Pendit Sven Hollinger Rick Bolt Mr Robert Jansen Tutik Yantini Enny Kudung Brandon Huisman I Wayan Sudiana Jacky Ames Nigel Ames Ida Bagus Partama Aprin Sukarno Putra Ridwan Nyoman Wijana I Made Linggi I Made Putra I Wayan Sudarsana I Gede Juastra Ray Clark Michael Shaheen I Made Lugra Markus Krickelberg Budhi Setiawan Tedja Ni Made Kariani Shirkandi (lulu) Renaud Le Rasle Claire Quinn Made Witha Dean Keddel Helmut Walter Schafer Daud L Pakpahan Raul Deschu Agus Wiryawan Christian Hinckley

Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Padma Bali Padma Bali Padma Bali Pamerindo Papa’s Café Pepito Café Pica Tapas Pica Tapas Pica Tapas PT Aromaduta Rasa Prima PT Aromaduta Rasa Prima PT Aromaduta Rasa Prima PT Asri Indonesia PT Asri Indonesia PT Asri Indonesia PT Hocatsu Bali PT Hocatsu Bali PT Hocatsu Bali PT Masuya Graha Trikencana PT. Sukanda Djaya PT. Sukanda Djaya PT. Sukanda Djaya Queens tandoor Sanur Beach Aerowisata Satria Pangan Sejati Smart Energy Soejasch Soejasch Soejasch The Bale The Bali Khama The Beach House The Beach House The Laguna The Laguna The Laguna The Laguna The Laguna The Laguna The Samaya The Samaya The Samaya The Samaya The Samaya The Westin Tirta Sakti Mandiri Tirta Sakti Mandiri Tirta Sakti Mandiri Ubud Hanging Gardens Villa Coco Witha Bakery

36 TASTE | September - October 2009

YOUNG CHEFS UPDATE Both ACP Jakarta and BCP in Bali are putting their experience, support and sponsorship behind the chefs of the future. WACS throughout the world are active in promoting young chefs and exposing them to international events and competitions encouraged by legendary South African Chef Bill Gallagher. Although he is now retired WACS have commemorated his work with young people by introducing scholarship programs in his name. Throughout Asia, including Indonesia, more young chefs are finding themselves at international events and proving they are ambitious, creative and willing to work with more senior chefs to make their mark. President of Bali’s young chefs association, and commi at Bulgari, Alex Tanuhardja will head to Chile in January to assist the resort’s Executive Sous Chef Wicaya to represent all of Asia in the next Global Chefs Challenge. Meanwhile other young chefs who have yet to have international experience are being hand picked for exposure to the world stage. Vice President BCP, Darren lauder, Executive Chef of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel, works closely with the Young Chefs and has chosen Jason Suwantika to attend Singapore’s On The Edge Festival which will feature a number of Asian chefs. Currently working as a trainee to chef Philip Mimbimi at Nutmegs Restaurant, Hu’u Bar, Bali Jason is young, keen and motivated. A graduate of Sunrice College in Singapore, he is a young Indonesian chef who has grown up overseas. Like most of the members of the Young Chefs Clubs worldwide, he is ambitious and hard working and has big plans. We wish him luck.

Next BCP Lunch Venue Address Day/date Time

: Holiday Inn Resort : Jl. Wana Segara 33 Tuban : Saturday, 31st October 2009 : 12.30

Taste the fragrant flavor of

our aromatic

Pandu Rasa Bali Bird Park Padma Bali Banyan Tree Amandari

Vanilla Beans

on your delicious cuisine

Hand selected gourmet vanilla beans black, glossy, supple and evocative aroma

export experiences

P. +62 361 7952199 | M. +62 81 338584080 F. +62 361 240861 | E. [email protected]

chefs day-out

Sambal

on the High by Kayti Denham

Onboard the beautiful Al-Isra, a wooden phinisi, the kitchen is tucked under the stairs in between the main sleeping cabins and the rear wall of the crew berths. There is just enough room for one person to stand and any other movement must be done from that one standing spot by pivoting. Chef Joseph had pivoting down to a fine art, and from this miniscule space he conjured up and brought forth meals of such quality freshness and flavor it inspired the desire to squeeze in for a cooking lesson. With his audience hanging over the stairwell Joseph gave the onboard guests a detailed demonstration of how to make the sambals. The use of a variety of indigenous spices gave each meal a distinct flavour and while the meals themselves were ‘simple’ they were tasty and satisfying. The basic ingredients were garlic, salt, fresh chilies and olive oil of good quality oil that imparted a fruity flavour into the mixture. 38 TASTE | September - October 2009

Seas

To this base Joseph added his own combination of ingredients to create the different sambals, the tomato sambal was served with chicken, the candlenut and ginger sambal was used to coat the prawns and squid for a delicious salad and the tumeric and lemongrass sambal was the baste for a huge whole Trevally. The best sambals are made using an ‘olek’, or mortar and pestle made from heavy stone and although you can use a blender the maceration of the mortar and pestle is better for the flavour of the sambal as electronic mashing can create a bitterness in garlic. TOMATO SAMBAL Crush garlic with salt in a heavy mortar, add a drizzle of olive oil, add a pinch of powdered coriander seeds and the juice of two small lemons along with chopped red chillies. Continue to pound until chilies incorporated into the mix. Take four

roughly chopped tomatoes and add them to the mortar and make a final rough pound so that the sambal is chunky. CANDLENUT AND GINGER SAMBAL Using the base mix of garlic salt and oil add two peeled candle nuts and the sliced root of ginger, about 2cms, slices of tumeric root and chopped baby onions and lemongrass stalks. Pound until mashed into a paste. This sambal can be used as a paste for any type of meat or tofu and with the addition of coconut flesh and milk can be turned into a tropical spicy marinade that is perfect for seafood.