Taste 08

JAKARTA & BALI CULINARY PROFESSIONAL NEWSLETTER MAY - JUNE 2009

SPA

| FREE

Cuisine

Go Greek

at Kebab Palace

The Perfect PAVLOVA

The Wine Dinner

Dilemma

at The Bale

COMPETITION FEVER AT

SALON CULINAIRE

presidents’ message

TASTE

TASTE

contents

team

editorial consultant Sarah Dougherty

contributors Kathryn, Kora, Marco Rucola, Katrina Valkenburg, Es Dee, Kayti

coordinator & marketing

13

Miranti Amandya

photographers Dewandra, Sarah, Mia, DeKa

graphic designers DeKa

distribution Gede Sudiartawan, Arif Junaidi

16

office BCP Secretariat (attn. Kathryn) Travel Works Communication International Jl. Kesari no. 60a, Sanur 80223, Bali, Indonesia Tel: 62 – 361 – 284095 Fax: 62 – 361 – 270189 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.balichefs.com

28

5.

President’s Message

6.

Short Order

7.

Victoria Comes to Indonesia

9. 13.

Salon Culinaire 2009

16.

Greek Kebab

18.

A Culture of Service

23.

Design Update

24.

Raw Nature

26.

The Wine Dinner

28. 30.

Arak with Sex Appeal

32.

Spa Cuisine at The Bale

38.

Chef’s Day Out

Brilliant Baguettes

The Perfect Pavlova

To all our members and friends

Dear members and Friends,

I am filled with pride at this time for the skills of our local chefs. All the participants from Indonesia tried so hard and those that won were very impressive in their events.

I have so many people to thank for their tireless work, their wonderful performances and their generous sponsorship during the Salon Culinaire in Jakarta this April.

There are so many people to thank from the BCP Committee members and those who helped to mentor the Bali teams, to the sponsors who helped us to realise our success, the judges who were fair and encouraging and our many supporters.

The show attracted more competitors than ever before and the ACP and BCP committees had a lot to be proud of. The level of competition attracted much prasie from an incredible line-up of judges, both local and international

Bali once again won the Indonesian selection for the Asian Pastry Cup and will represent Bali in Singapore in 2010 in the lead up to the World Pastry Cup in 2011. we have great hopes that these two talented pastry chefs, who have kept trying and performed better each time, will have great success in their careers and be great ambassadors for Indonesia. For the Junior Chefs who practiced hard and bought home a gold and a bronze I would like to say how proud we are. This is a new program for us and to see the enthusiasm and hard work that has gone into this event is very encouraging.

Congratulations to all the winners and those that tried so hard and did not get a place, there is always next year in Bali. I would also like to say a special thank you to the WACS representatives that came to oversee the competition and our wonderful guest judges who came from Singapore, Malaysia, Hong Kong as well as Bali and Jakarta. To the organising committee as well, I would like to express my admiration for the ACP Organising committee who did such a great job and were very busy throughout the event.

Special thanks to Stefan Mueller and Darren Lauder and Agus Pandetria from Ayana, Oscar Perez and Vincent Stopin from St Regis, Lotus distribution and all chefs who gave their support and their contribution to make this event a great success.

Finally the future of our local industry looks very healthy following our first Asian Junior Chefs Challenge. Although the local teams did not win the top place, Bali received a bronze and we saw some very impressive effort. The Young Chefs Clubs are new to Indonesia and the potential we saw was very encouraging.

Next year it is Bali’s turn to host the Salon Culinaire and I hope we can do it as well as our sister organization in Jakarta did. It was a great event.

I must also say a special congraulations to the team from Four Seasons Jakarta, my home team, for winning the Gold Trophy for Best Culinary team.

Made Putra, President BCP

Once again thank you to all who made this event a very special one. Vindex Valentino Tengker, President ACP

pre press & printing by PT. Dian Rakyat TASTE Newsletter can be downloaded at www.balichefs.com

4 TASTE | May - June 2009

Cover photograph of almond jelly with grilled pineapple compote, coconut cream and mango puree Created by Brandon Huisman for Bliss Spa at The Bale, Nusa Dua Photo by Dewandra Djelantik

Taste Magazine This edition of Taste comes on the heels of some fantastic performances by our local chefs at the Salon Culinaire 2009 in Jakarta. Four Seasons Jakarta took out the highest honours to win the gold trophy for best team. Bali’s team of pastry chefs came hold with a gold trophy of their own and our young chefs did us proud, bringing back a gold and a bronze medal for Bali.

As usual we have been treated to some great lunches and dinners throughout the last two months, up-market, on the streets and everything in between. You can read all about it in this isue. The Wine dinner seems to be the flavour of the year, we look at the hows and whys. And lastly we stopped for a few araks, it’s all about going local these days. Enjoy.

May - June 2009 | TASTE 5

short orders

short orders

Innovative Cream

Kath Comes

for Professionals

to Maya

Developed by New Zealand dairy company Fonterra with leading Australian chef, Glenn Austin, head of WACS Pacific, Anchor Culinary Cream was recently launched in Indonesia.

Maya Ubud Resort and Spa has recently announced the appointment of a new Food and Beverage Director, Kath Townsend. Originally from Sydney, Australia, Kath spent four years working with celebrity cookbook author and restaurateur, Bill Granger as Executive Chef, working and travelling with him. She also worked at the Sydney Opera House catering events that sometimes involved hundreds and thousands of guests.

Already reduced by 30% the cream cuts cooking time and saves money as less achieves the same result as regular cream. Practical testing has shown it provides the best coat on pasta.

Most recently Kath has served as Executive Chef in the Maldives and most recently in Vietnam. She will no doubt be a valuable addition to the award winning resort in Ubud and to Bali’s Culinary Community. For enquiries contact: [email protected]

Sourced from grass fed cows, the cream has a rich colour and a fresh cream taste. Best of all it is stabilised so it won’t react to heat or acid. As ambassador for Fonterra, Glenn Austin claims this product is “revolutionary”.

Hatten Opens The Cellar Door

The latest innovation from Hatten introduces screw top technology to their growing wine company. Hatten Wines is a vigorous local company that are constantly upgrading their product and adding new ranges. The BCP lunch guests at Sip restaurant were recently introduced to the company’s Pino de Bali, an aperitif wine that is available in both red and white. “The wine is made from Belgia grapes and Alphonse-Lavallee in the case of the white. It is aged in oak barrels for one to two years before being bottled. Pino de Bali is a fortified wine, made using brandy in the mix and is similar to a muscat. It is available at the The Cellardoor on the By-Pass close to the Simpang Siur, Bali, Tel: 767422.

The Winner Takes It All For Vindex Tengker, Executive Chef of Four Seasons Jakarta and President of Jakarta ACP, (Association of Culinary Professional), the Salon Culinaire 2009 was a triumph on many levels. The event was the largest in Indonesia to date and hosted a number of prestigious competitions including the Bocuse d’Or, among the most esteemed international competitions for a single chef. It was also the first time the Asian Junior Chefs Competition was held, inviting regional teams to compete. The first Barista Competition was also staged and turned out to be a hot favourite with the audience who sat cheering their favourites throughout the three day event. However, it was Vindex’s own hotel, Four Seasons, who took home the trophy for the best team overall in the competition. 6 TASTE | May - June 2009

A FISH By Any Other Name Sourcing and supplying a wide variety of local seafood is nothing new for Alam Boga who have established partnerships with high quality handlers of local fish and seafood which is sent daily to chefs in Bali, Lombok and Jakarta. What is new is the logo, which will now identify all their seafood products. Combining the old word for island, Noesa, with a graphic fish, Alam Boga will now have a dedicated facility for packaging the fish and refrigerated trucks that will bear the new label. “We have been doing this for a long time now and we have established trust with both our suppliers and our customers,

who know that our seafood is properly processed through the cold chain, at each stage of handling, preserving the integrity of the product,” explains David Smith. Alam Boga believe that the potential in Jakarta is big as the chefs do not have the same access to local fish varieties as Bali does. The Noesa label will feature on both wholesale and retail products. Jakarta enquiries: 021 743 3003. For Bali 0361 720200.

Leony Opens Leony is a great inspiration for other women who are committed to a career in the male dominated world of cooking. At the recent opening of Holiday Inn, Tuban, where she is now working as Chef de Cuisine, there was not a wider smile to be seen. The glamorous, refurbished property is the perfect fit for Leony Rosalia as she moves up the ladder in her career. Confident, creative, hard working and full of enthusiasm, she loves her job and it is clear that both the staff and the guests love Leony. To sample Leony’s cooking, check out the new Holiday Inn. Jl. Wana Segara 33. T: 0361 755 577. May - June 2009 | TASTE 7

short orders

The Victorians

are serious about

Products included lamb, beef, seafood, a wide variety of fresh and dried fruit and cheese, naturally all accompanied by some great Australian wine supplied by Lotus.

INDONESIA

“By working closely with the key-decision makers in the Indonesian food service sector, we are able to gain their confidence in our processes and capitalise on new market opportunities.

Four Seasons Jakarta event with Executive Chef Vindex Tengker

“Indonesia’s close proximity to Australia and growing affluence as a nation makes it a very important export market to Victoria. “The country has grown to become Victoria’s fifth most valuable food export market, worth $304 million in 2007/08 – an increase of 21 per cent over 2006/07.”

A wealth of fresh Australian produce Roland Lickert, chef and owner of Lamak, Ubud, shares a

Crumbed beef cheks created for

moment with the Victorians at Gourmet Garage.

Victorian event at Conrad, Bali by Richard Millar

Mr Helper said as part of the Brumby Government’s $205 million Future Farming Strategy, almost $3 million over three years had been dedicated to improving our responses to market and value-chain challenges with an emphasis on maintaining and gaining new market access. “Our Future Farming Strategy is developing a more responsive and internationally competitive agrifood sector that is able to capture new market opportunities,” he said. The Department of Primary Industries’ (DPI) Manager of Market Development South-East Asia, Tim Roache, said ongoing discussions between the two countries and local agricultural exporters was vital to enhance market access and develop the Indonesian market for Victorian food products.

The aim of the visit was for producers and exporters from Victoria to meet key people in the food and beverage industry. The first event was held at the Four Seasons, Jakarta and hosted by ACP President, Vindex. The first Bali event gave Conrad’s Richard Millar a chance to get creative with a variety of ingredients and host a dinner for a large groups of the island’s top chefs. The following day Lotus hosted an event at Gourmet Garage which gave Bill Busch a chance to play with his favourite new toy, his Rational oven, turning out superb beef and lamb. 8 TASTE | May - June 2009

“We are continually working to cement our business relationship with Indonesia as one of Victoria’s top 10 markets for agrifood exports,” Mr Roache said. Tim Roache

What’s Your Beef ? It is now common practice for Australian cattle to be transported to Indonesia to cater to the local market and although there is a way to go, it is obvious that there is a market for local beef and huge potential. One of Australia’s largest and oldest companies, Elders, has entered the Indonesian market with a product branded Sterling Beef, produced in Java and represented by Sukanda Djaya. Dressed in national costume, including his Akubra hat, President Director, Richard Slaney was on hand to discuss the merits of his local beef. “ We have set up a unique business model for Indonesia and we are constantly upgrading the product.” “Our beef is all produced from Australian cattle that is flown in at age 18 months to two and a half years, then fed at our lot for 100 days before being slaughtered. Our biggest competitor is Suntory, the local leader, but we are making improvements all the time and seeing our market expanding,” he explains. As the major problem with the local beef is not the cattle or the abattoir conditions, some of which are world class, but the short aging process, Richard addressed this. “ Our normal process involves processing the cows, cold-boning them and chilling the carcasses for 20 hours before packaging them and holding them for two days. After this they are re-inspected and distributed.

Richard Slaney

“We would like to age it longer but it isn’t feasible logistic-wise,” he says. Many Australian companies also have to rely on their distributors to age the meat, However Richard points out that their premium product, their prime rib, is dryaged for 3 months. “No one really does this here as it is costly and we lose between 40-50% of the product in the process. It is only a small line currently but it is our best,” he says. Ultimately his opinion is that taste comes with age, you need some big, old, fat, cattle for the best meat. Only two and a half years old, Sterling’s abattoir is located within the grounds of the university at Bogor and they have a commitment to provide training for students bound for local government jobs in foodrelated fields as well as veterinary students. The company also sells live cows, representing about 30% of their business. The other local beef companies at the exhibition were Bina Mentari Tungall who’s local beef products include Kibif, their domestic product and Orin beef, their premium line, and Bali Beef, an emerging brand. Contacts for Sterling Beef: Richard Slaney (021) 78840708, [email protected] or through Sukanda Djaya. PT. Bina Mentari Tunggal: (0260) 461539.

Salon Culinaire 2009 Jakarta Held in conjunction with the Food and Hotel Expo in April, the Salon Culinaire showcased the skills of professional chefs in three days of hotly contested competitions.

For the first time representatives from WACS, (World Association of Chefs) was invited to oversee the level of professionalism at the competition. Presidents of other regional chefs’ clubs were among the prestigious line-up of judges, which included leading chefs from around the world. Throughout Asia the competition circuit is gaining momentum and junior chefs have now been included in with an event of their own. The Association of Culinary Professionals, Jakarta (ACP) put enormous effort into the event. Major sponsors provided product and equipment for the show. This is the most professional and largest show and competition staged in Jakarta with the standards clearly very high among the medal winners. Jakarta Four Seasons won the trophy for best overall in the competition. On every level throughout the competition medal winners exhibited both creativity and skill in their chosen area. The next Salon Culinaire will be held in Bali in 2010.

The Judges A line-up of industry professionals from around the world made up the panel of judges for this year’s Salon Culinaire. Representatives from the World Association of Chefs Society were also asked to oversee the competition to ensure that as Indonesia enters the world culinary stage, participating increasingly in International events, the standard is consistent with major events elsewhere. Eduard Betz of Hotel Borobudur, Jkarta was appointed co-ordinator for the event and had the highest praise for the judging, an important component of world-class events. Kenny Kong, President of Singapore Pastry Alliance, praised the organisers and called the event both “intense and memorable.” While John Sloane head of WACS Asia wrote to say, “I have heard many good things about the event. It’s a great start and may it continue. Vindex & Made are to be congratulated for great coordination.” Wayan and Made practice at St Regis (top) 30 International judges and representatives from WACS gathered for the Salon Culinaire 2009 (above)

10 TASTE | May - June 2009

Billy Marinelli, owner of Marinelli Shellfish Company and a restaurant owner, was one of the guest judges for the Bocuse d’Or. He also served throughout the competition on other events, including the Junior Chef Challenge.

He offered this feedback: “All of the judges agree that the biggest mistake made is NOT tasting the food.

Gold! Bali’s chocolate scuplture

Gold! Sweet success for Bali at

with dessert

Salon Culinaire 2009

“Not enough seasonings. No salt in the water when cooking vegetables, main courses not seasoned, salads for garnish not dressed... TASTE your food while cooking! Hot food being served on cold plates! Trying too hard to impress with presentation and not being concerned with flavor, texture and hot food being served hot. “I am certain there would be a marked improvement, and more medals, if the teams would only taste, season and properly serve their food. Basic cooking skills 101.” All the team leaders agreed that the judges were fair and encouraging. “Being exposed to this level of competition in front of judges who are among the most successful in their field is an invaluable experience for our chefs. It is the ‘Idol” of cooking and each time the standards get better and better,” says Darren Lauder Executive Chef of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and team leader for Bali’s Junior Chefs.

Bali Brings Home Asian Pastry Cup TThe talented team of Balinese pastry chefs, Wayan Laspina and Made Sutisna impressed the judges with their skill, creativity and expertise to win the Indonesian selection and a gold medal in the Asian Pastry Cup at the Salon Culinaire 2009 in Jakarta. The Indonesian winners of The Asian Pastry Cup, Wayan, now at St Regis, and Made from Ayana Resort and Spa, now have three years experience competing, gaining valuable skills with each attempt. Last year they scored well in the Singapore regional competition but failed to get the nomination for World Pastry

Cup in Lyon, France. This year however the team believe they have an added advantage in the form of their mentor, St Regis’ pastry chef Vincent Stopin. According to St Regis’ Executive Chef, Oscar Perez, there is a great deal more preparation that needs to be done before these young chefs are ready to compete on the world stage. “However,” he says, “we have the advantage of time on our side as the Singapore competition is almost a year away.” It is a long road to Lyon where the World Pastry Cup is held every two years, and the competition is fierce. Teams from around the world spend large sums of money and invest months, and sometimes years, to win this prestigious prize. With each successive win, however, our team gets closer, having just missed the top four selection in Singapore last year.

Sponsorship is a big factor for local teams with some countries sending their pastry chefs to Lyon to study and practice in advance of the competition. “ It is a very serious level of competition and highly regarded,” explains team leader Stefan Mueller, F&B Director of Nikko Resort. “Nevertheless another win this time is a great confidence builder for our local team. They have taken firm steps in the right direction, they are ambitious and motivated” commented Stefan. The team owe special thanks to: • St. Regis (for providing their facilities - thanks to Oscar Perez, and expertise of pastry chef Vincent for the training of APC teams, as well providing essential equipment for the teams to use during their competition)

• The Ayana Resort & Spa (for freeing their staff to participate as well the Executive Sous Chef as team co-ordinator for APC Pak Agus)

• Nikko Bali Resort & Spa (for freeing their It is a gruelling event as well. A team of two chefs have to prepare four show-pieces in eight hours in front of the judges. These include a sugar piece, a chocolate piece, a dessert and a chocolate cake.

pastry chef to participate)

• Gourmet Garage & Bill Busch (for handling all logistics of equipment for the teams)

• Le Bake and J.P. Petit for support with equipment.

May - June 2009 | TASTE 11

Darren Lauder with the Young Chefs

Pass The Fish

at Denpasar Airport (right) Bali Junior Chefs show off their

Not a man to mince his words, guest judge Otto Weibel claimed that the entries in this year’s Bocuse d’Or ranged from vastly improved to others who failed to perform on the day.

medals. Arfan has gold. (below) Winning entry by Junior Chefs Kuala Lumpur (bottom)

Having competed internationally himself and currently Director of Kitchens for Stamford group and Fairmont in Singapore, Otto is regarded very highly in the culinary community and his opinion carries great weight.

First Asian Junior Chefs Challenge One of the greatest initiatives of the past twelve months has been the introduction of the young chefs clubs in Bali and Jakarta. The recent Salon Culinaire in Jakarta hosted the first Asian Young Chefs challenge, giving our local teams the chance to compete against Malaysia and Singapore for the first time. In a standout effort, A Alfan M of The Loop Restaurant in Canggu easily won the gold medal, for a beautifully executed, spicy chilli crab ravioli with a creamy fennel sauce and confit fennel salad. The more established teams from Malaysia and Singapore took home the gold and silver in the live cooking competition which required each team to prepare a three course menu in 120 minutes. The Bali team comprising three young chefs, came in a very close third to take home the bronze. Jatu Rizki Putra Aburantha of Four Seasons, together with I Made Putra Susila and Ivan Suputra (both students at STP) put in a great effort to impress the judges but were outmatched by the more experienced teams. Representing

12 TASTE | May - June 2009

the

World

Association

of Chefs Societies for Asia (WACS), Singapore-based Alan Orreal, who is heading up the Asian Young Chefs programs, was impressed and encouraged by this first Asian challenge. “It is an important program for WACS as the future is all about encouraging young chefs. In other parts of the world there are great opportunities for young chefs to improve their skills and compete on an international level. With an increase in sponsorship, WACS is now focussing on Asia in order to give these young people the same chances,” he explains. Competitions are invaluable for junior chefs and with increased sponsorship they can now access international scholarships.

Along with a team of highly regarded judges, including Kenny Kong President of Singapore Pastry Alliance, Federico Michiellto, President of Chefs Association of Malaysia and seafood supplier, Billy Marinelli,, the contestants had to prepare a salmon and a meat dish live in front of a panel of judges. The level of creativity was for the most high, with some entries worthy of a fine dining restaurant. Otto Weibel commented that some of the entries were not of such high standard. “Simple mistakes like not warming the

plates, causing the sauce to become congealed and almost inedible. At this level these kind of basic rules should not even be a consideration. There is still a long way to go for some of these chefs,” he said.

world get together in Lyons in order to give an incredible performance involving the preparation of two exceptional dishes within 5 hours and 30 minutes, in front of the public, the press and the jury.

The winners of the Jakarta Selection for the Bocuse d’Or Asia were Guruh Nugraha and Zahirsyah Basyaruddin from Parklane Hote, Jakarta who presented two dishes that delighted the judges.

Named for legendary chef paul Bocuse, the competition goes back to 1983, when the Salon des Métiers de Bouche (Culinary Sector Exhibition and Trade Fair) was created in Lyon - “An exhibition organised by professionals for professionals.” Lyon, the renowned gastronomic capital was lacking an event that could live up to its worldwide reputation.

The first Bocuse d’Or Asia gathered 10 countries during Gourmet World Shanghai, 29th-31st of May 2008, at Pudong Expo in Shanghai-China. The event was part of a movement that aims at setting up a high standard on the way to the Bocuse d’Or World Finals in Lyons. The 10 countries that competed in 2008 were: China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Lebanon, Malaysia, Singapore, South Korea, Thailand, and Vietnam.

History of Bocuse d’Or Since 1987, every two years, 24 chefs selected from the best kitchens in the

With around 500 exhibitors and 51.000 visitors, the exhibition was a great success. A success story confirmed with the 2nd edition in 1985 at Eurexpo, the new Lyon Exhibition Centre, with 750 exhibitors and 70.000 visitors. Following this success, on January 24th 1987 Bocuse d’Or was formally created. Jakarta Park Lane took the honours to represent Indonesia in the next round of the Asian competition.

The salmon keeps coming at Bocuse d’Or selection.

“The more competitions they enter, the better their chances are. They are judged on everything from their prep and kitchen skills to cleanliness, teamwork and on the final product. Taste makes up a large part of the marks,” explains Darren Lauder of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel, team manager for the Bali Junior Chefs. “Overall, I am very pleased with the results and the team are realistic about where they performed well and where they can improve.” A special thanks to Sukanda Djaya from the Junior Chefs for their generous sponsorship.

May - June 2009 | TASTE 13

Brilliant

Baguettes

I teach my staff to do the same. Bread is a lot to do with feeling. You feel the elasticity, the heat, the rise, it can change with different equipment and environments and that is why experience is so important,” he continues. Denis has adapted his recipe and technique to the tropics. You need to create a firmer crust here and cook it a little longer than normal so the crust doesn’t soften up too quickly. “I mix my dough carefully. Slowly at first and then faster until it reaches 24 degrees. Then rest it for 30 minutes before forming it and proving for one and half hours. I then take a special knife to make the marks in the dough and cook it 18 to 20 minutes in a 220 degree oven.”

The baguette is to the French what rice is to the Asians. According to French baker, Carrefour’s Denis, it is the first food many French people remember having and it is eaten every day. This is, however, possibly the most abused bakery product, apart from the sliced loaf. To get it right takes experience, skill and love according to Denis. Carrefour, a French supermarket chain, is quickly building their Asian business. Hiring Denis to head up their bakery business has resulted in unprecedented success in their Bali store. This is a man who loves to come to work, gets a real kick out of passing on his skill and truly enjoys seeing his customers arrive and pick up the bread, smell it, break pieces off to eat before they have even paid. Carrefour’s bakery produces an amazing variety of breads, freshly baked on the premises. He makes predominantly two types of baguette, a classic and a lamourette, which are among the most popular items in the store. He also shapes the dough and adds flour to create a rustic loaf. “The traditional baguette is still a favourite. We produce over 200 per day, all by hand, and usually we bake three times a day. Making the baguettes by hand produces a completely different result than the machine-

made ones. The holes are not even and this is how you can tell,” he enthuses. “My recipe uses 10% sourdough, which is made from the old dough which I keep a minimum of four days. This gives the crisp texture to the crust and also gives a great flavour to the bread.” “I can teach my staff to cook the bread we produce here. I can show them over and over but I cannot pass my experience on to them, that is something they must learn over time. If they make a mistake I can tell straight away, just by looking, what has gone wrong,” he explains. There are a few things that are absolute rules in baking bread. Denis says he now has all the best equipment, something he is very happy with, but he still teaches his staff to feel the bread, not to rely on machines. “In baking bread you must pay close attention to the temperature. The temperature of the water is important and the temperature that the dough reaches while mixing it. I don’t use a thermometer, I can feel by touching it and

Denis says there is a sound when the bread emerges from the oven, it is not only the smell of the freshly baked loaves that calls to the customers who seem to head straight for the bakery section almost as if hypnotised. Denis says this job is his dream come true. After 25 years as a baker, he has finally come out – of the kitchen that is. He loves watching people choose the bread, smell the bread and especially watching Indonesian customers taking a chance on something new. He is also happy to take special orders and has created a market in par-baked bread that is proving popular. He is also creating incredible patisserie, at a fraction of the cost of his competitors. He claims there is no reason customers a high price, his costings are realistic and he is making a profit selling individual tarts and pastries like his famous millefeuile for under Rp8,000. Being creative in his role is also important to him, expanding the range to wedding cakes, specialty cakes and more. “I am now working on funny cakes for children. People tell me I look like Mr Bean, so I want to put Mr Bean’s head on a Spiderman body – a Spiderbean cake!.”

May - June 2009 | TASTE 15

The TASTE of

GREECE

Truly authentic food has the power to transport you; to another time, another place. Kebab Palace is a place where a single bite can transport you to the streets of Istanbul, a taverna in Athens, a middle-eastern bazaar. Photos by Demetrios Spanakis

An unassuming place, despite the sheesha pipes and the belly dancer, Kebab Palace is a great example of how simple food can be and yet still be fabulous. Roadside in Jl. Kartika Plaza, aluminium tables and vinyl chairs are laid out, the interior features a simple counter with stacks of chicken and imported lamb turning on the doner kebabs and large photos of the various house specialties. Kebab Palace has the usual line-up of Greek, Turkish and some Middle Eastern specialties. What is startling is how authentic they taste. Souvlaki is freshly sliced as you order, slathered in tzatiki, dressed with red onions and tomatoes and laid on the freshly baked pita bread. These are produced at owner/ chef Pygmalion Diakoudis’s home every day and sent to various restaurants in addition to his own. All the preparation of the meat, from filleting to marinade is done on the premises and Pygmalion is there every day to check that everything is perfect. Beef and lamb come from Australia, his herbs and spices from Greece where possible. The menu features kebabs of all types, falafel, cheese pies, simple salads full of flavour and a list of typical home-made desserts, including a wonderful baklava. Both the Greek and the Turkish cultures have a tradition of food that depends largely on taste. The best recipes are not written but felt. So it is when you meet with Pygmalion to attempt to get recipes. He will happily talk you through them, moustache twitching, but nothing is written down, quantities are estimates. “So what do you want to know?” he asks.

Falafel bursts with flavour and freshness

Herbs lift a simple cheese bourek out of the ordinary

To appreciate the depth of flavour you have to taste it for yourself and by comparing dishes that have the same basic ingredients, you realise that in this style of cooking it is the herbs, and the combination of them, that gives each dish its characteristics; wild oregano, cumin, dill, lemon of course, paprika, thyme and oregano. Rather than flavouring the food, the herbs are at the forefront and are distinctive in each dish.

Pygmalion Diakoudis

Chicken or lamb doner at Kebab Palace

“Take minced beef, we make so many different dishes with this,” he explains as we sit in Seminyak restaurant Panterei, Pygmalion’s first Greek restaurant where he has recently returned to the kitchens as a consultant.

can taste so vastly different.

To illustrate his point about the herbs he asks the staff to prepare two types of meatballs. One is a dolmades-type (wrapped) in cabbage, the other a simple meatball (kefte) pan-fried and then stewed in home-made tomato sauce. The kefte tastes distinctly of cumin although notes of the oregano are also there.

Kebab Palace doesn’t do this fancy stuff, it is purely basic, but from the moustachioed types hanging out for their take-away, you can tell the Greeks and the Turks have discovered this place. They aren’t the only ones; apart from his consulting to Panterei and Taman Selini in Pemuteran, he is also in demand for events, called on by M&M Catering as well as private clients. He has a healthy business selling his bread, falafel and pizza to local businesses.

The dolmades are a heady mixture of rice and mince, with an unmistakeable flavour of dill, they are wrapped in par-boiled cabbage, weighted and cooked in a casserole with water, lemon juice and olive oil. Left to absorb the liquid, which is then used as a warm broth to “cook” the eggs for the heavenly avgolemono sauce, which is liberally tipped over them. It is time-consuming and hardly as simple as it looks. It is astounding how two mince dishes

A Greek born in Turkey, with a Turkish business partner, Pygmalion is a man who spans two cultures whose tastes have a lot in common. Kebab Palace is the perfect place to discover them, and don’t forget to ask Pygmalion for any recipes you might want. Take a pen because he won’t be writing them out any time soon. Kebab Place: Jl Kartika Plaza, Kuta Centre T: 758075 May - June 2009 | TASTE 17

gourmet traveller

Service So Good

Ritz-Carlton was at the top of that list. When I approached them with the idea, many conversations took place with senior management. The decision was made to provide in-depth access and to share a candid view of the company’s business practices, culture, strategy, breakdowns and challenges.”

They Wrote a Book About It By Sarah Dougherty - Taste Editorial Consultant

A funny thing happened on my way to Ritz Carlton in Jakarta. Instead of heading for the Kuningan property I arrived by mistake at Pacific Place. I had researched steak houses and decided I would review Jakarta’s most awarded restaurant of this type, Prime Restaurant. Unfortunately between emails, I forgot to enquire which of their two properties it was located in. The staff reacted instantly when I arrived, before I had a chance to smoke a cigarette, I was in a Silver Bird Taxi headed for the older property and feeling a little let down.

Frank Koppelkamm Chef de Cuisine of Prime Steakhouse at The Ritz-Carlton, Jakarta

However, when a grand colonial building came into view I started to sense this wasn’t such a bad thing. Three staff met me at the door, including the immaculate Public Relations manager, Els, apologised for the mistake (mine, entirely) and led me through the classically decorated lobby into the lounge where I was given a cold beer and made to feel like I had arrived home. My room, that I had far too little time to indulge in, was stunning. Located on the 23rd floor, with floor to ceiling windows that opened onto a glittering sky-line, sumptuous carpet and so

18 TASTE | May - June 2009

much space I felt like I should throw a party. The bathroom was incredible with a bath that also overlooked the glittering city. Dinner followed soon after and a group of us sat down. The waiter was incredibly well informed, almost intuitive, about what we might like for an entrÈe. The steak menu was just that. A selection of various cuts of US Prime beef sat beside a selection of Australian wagyu steaks of varying grades and cuts. The Chef Frank Koppelkamm sat down for a while and explained that although the wagyu is very popular, especially with Asian guests who appreciate the soft texture, for him, he likes his steak with a little bit of fat, and he prefers his prime beef from the US as he feels it has more flavour. For his wagyu he favours the Australian. “I like to keep things simple. Food should look like food, taste like food, I don’t have much time for molecular inventions. My sauces are flavourful, the steaks speak for themselves,” he explains. It has earned him two awards this year alone, so obviously this formula works. I chose the best wagyu (9+), luckily offered in two portion sizes, I chose the 120 grams with a

red wine sauce, and could not have eaten more. It was rich, cut like butter and the sauce was perfect. The next morning I luxuriated in my room before heading to the top floor for breakfast in desperate need of a coffee. When I spied the regular-sized coffee cups I pleaded with the waitress to find me a larger one. She promptly removed one from a display, offered to wash it and served my steaming mug of life-saving caffeine. Breakfast was a magnificent buffet served with the city waking up around me. On leaving she offered a Ritz Carlton mug and explained she would keep it on the Club floor especially for me. I didn’t explain I was checking out, she was so sweet about it. I returned to my room and the doorbell rang. It was the same waitress with a boxed mug and a handwritten card. She had discovered I was checking out and she handed me the mug and the card with a smile and said she hoped it would be a reminder of my stay.

The card was simply written and left me with a sense of wonder. She simply expressed her hope that each time I used the mug I would have fond memories of my stay and she thanked me for coming. That waitress and that experience come to mind more often than I reach for a coffee, it was spectacular. THE “NEW GOLD STANDARD” In light of my experience I am therefore not surprised to find that best-selling US author Dr. Joseph A. Mitchelli has recently released an entire book devoted to the service ethic of Ritz-Carlton that has been endorsed by many business leaders and is being widely used as a model for customer service standards. Dr. Michelli noted: “After my book ‘The Starbucks Experience’ made the global bestseller lists, I was approached by many companies asking me to profile them. However, I created my own short list of corporations with a track record of exceptional customer experiences – The

In “The New Gold Standard” Michelli takes an in-depth look at how such an iconic brand stays relevant in changing times, the importance of over communicating company values, maintaining a vital and engaged work force, and transferring trust to empowerment. He also attended sessions of The Ritz-Carlton Leadership Center, an award-winning training facility for corporate executives and business owners. From that experience, the author identifies several key points which help explain the enduring reputation for excellence of the hotel company which traces its roots back to legendary hotelier Cesar Ritz in the early 1900s. The points include: understanding the everevolving needs of the customers; empowering employees by treating them with the utmost respect; anticipating customers’ unexpressed needs and concerns; enabling guests to design their own experience; and developing and conducting an unsurpassed training regime. At the end of each chapter, Dr. Michelli poses questions for readers to consider about their own business practices and corporate culture. The “New Gold Standard” is published by McGraw Hill. Prime Steakhouse Ritz Carlton Kuningan JL. Lingkar Mega Kuningan, Jakarta T: (021) 2551 8876.

May - June 2009 | TASTE 19

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watching or controlling the cooking process is a thing of the past as SelfCooking Control® takes care of everything for us. Giving you time to think up that special marinade. Experiment with bourbon whiskey or scrumpy jack cider and of course there’s all those different mustards and honeys to try out too. When you enter the kitchen in the morning the SelfCooking Center® will be in a holding & maturing phase which will simply increase the quality even further. Then simply baste your ham in that special marinade and finish the roasting. Immediately freeing up your SelfCooking Center® so that it’s ready to prepare your vegetables and side dishes.

Fantastic results are guaranteed with RATIONAL SelfCooking Center AND you save money by reducing shrinkage to an absolute minimum. Watching the budget is essential for every working chef and reducing shrinkage of raw materials is one way to ensure your costs are reduced. For special events why not try a succulent honey and mustard roast ham slowly cooked in the RATIONAL SelfCooking Center®. A fantastic looking centre piece that will be bursting with flavour and mouth wateringly juicy. Simply cook hams in advance under the

20 TASTE | May - June 2009

moist cooking function and automatically benefit from the very gentle cooking Delta T technique. Delta T cooks the food by maintaining a constant temperature difference between the meat and the cooking chamber. This means that as the meat rises in temperature so does the SelfCooking Center®. Another added benefit of Delta T is that due to the gentle cooking process, shrinkage is reduced to an absolute minimum; therefore raw material costs are also kept low. There is also no need to enter any cooking temperature or time and thanks to the SelfCooking Centers® ability to cook overnight you can also win the night as additional production capacity. Turning,

Why not take advantage of what the SelfCooking Center® can offer you. Using moist cooking with the “Delta T technique” will also bring similar benefits from boiled beef, vitello-tonnato, gammon and much more. Contact: RATIONAL International AG Millie Chan Sales Director International partner Business Indonesian Mobile: + 62 815 5892 5618 Philippines Mobile: + 63 927 3683 348 PT Gastro Gizi Sarana Commercial Kitchen, Catering, Laundry, Refrigeration and Stainless Steel Fabrication. Bali Office and Showroom : Sunset Road (Next to Carrefour Kuta) Denpasar – Bali P : (0361) 8477 330 F : (0361) 8477 234 E : [email protected]

design update

advertorial

Inspiration happens at

tables of

Hospitality Essentials

TRADITION Mr Ubud

We call it a ‘Sulinggih’ experience and everything from the food to the music and the atmosphere create a balance we refer to as Bali Taksu,” explains the General Manager who is known locally as Mr Ubud. “The food is calculated very carefully to balance the spices. Our own spice is made up of 98% Basa Basic (chopped spices) and finished with aromatic spices. The basic spices used are daun salam (local bay leaf ), shallots, galangal, shallots, garlic, lemongrass and tumeric with chilli. The aromatics we include are coriander, white pepper, sesame, chilli, candlenut and clove.”

Padi Prada Resto has long been a favourite of locals and tourists alike for their traditional atmosphere and authentic recipes. Perched over magnificent rice fields, the restaurant has earned a reputation among those seeking a real Balinese experience, far from the modern creations that are now so popular. Artfully presented food is carefully and hygienically prepared offering diners the assurance of years of trusted service and experience. “A specialty of our restaurant is high Balinese food, the food traditionally served in the homes and palaces of royals and distinguished guests. 22 TASTE | May - June 2009

The restaurant has remained true to its authentic roots and has claimed a market among people who want to experience classical Balinese food. The main attraction is the local crispy-fried duck. “When dealing with local duck it is important to buy the freshest possible, many are still alive. Then the duck must be deodorised, de-feathered and then carefully fried so it has a lovely colour, is crisp outside and not dried out,” Mr Ubud points out to us, taking great pride in offering an authentic dining experience which many visitors claim is difficult to find these day. Padi Prada Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. T: (0361) 978972

Hospitality Essentials is a dedicated company that caters to the hospitality industry. Their team of designers will create a range based on the needs of the customers or work with existing designs in the range to tailor a perfect match. The innovative company is up to date with international trends and responsible for creating some themselves. The showroom is a great source of inspiration and the personal service each customer receives has made them one of the Bali’s most successful suppliers of quality ranges for the hospitality industry. Here we feature two of their latest range but also urge you to meet with their designers and wander the showroom in search of inspiration for your next project, large or small.

Baskets, baskets, baskets! Baskets offer a versatile solution to many service and presentation challenges! The Hospitality Essentials catalogue already boasts a wide range of woven baskets in all shapes, sizes and colours for uses such as laundry, valet return and food presentation! The options are endless! As with all of the products, each basket can be customized according to requirements - making them a versatile addition to any accessories range.

Grid Collection - New Additions! Hospitality Essentials has recently added some new items to the popular Grid Collection to create a clean, modern look suitable for both island and corporate properties. As with all of their ranges it can be finished in a variety of different shades, allowing you to customise to suit each individual property’s interior design concept.

Bamboo Collection by Jenggala Jenggala Ceramics latest collection finds its inspiration in nature. The Bamboo Bath Collection places the bamboo shape in various orientations including a tissue box, soap dish, shampoo and conditioner dispensers, toothbrush cup and cotton bud container, fit nicely onto a bamboo tray. Bamboo Jug Set is inspired by the shape of cups and jugs used in the Indonesian tradition of drinking ‘tuak’. The glaze finishes diversify with four different colors to mix and match with the large jug and individual cups.

News from Doctor Rocket’s Organic Farm

The association with honour and glory continues today; we have poet laureates (Apollo was the God of poets), and bacca-laureate means “laurel berries” which signifies the completion of a bachelor degree.

Raw Nature

Bay leaf contains compounds called parthenolides, which have proven useful as an herbal remedy in the treatment of migraines. It has also been shown to help the body process insulin more efficiently, which leads to lower blood sugar levels.. Bay leaves and berries have been used for their astringent, carminative, digestive, diuretic, emetic and stomachic properties to reduce the effects of stomach ulcers. Bay Leaf contains eugenol, which has anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. Bay leaf is also an anti-fungal and anti-bacterial.

By Dr. Marco “RUCOLA” de Leonardis

After writing about “Les Fines Herbs” I think it is important that I write about the other French blend of herbs I mentioned in the last issue, the “Bouquet Garni”. The classic one is made with 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 sprig of thyme, and 1 bay leaf, however I like to add to mine 1 sprig of Rosemary as well.

with Bouquet Garni INGREDIENTS • 1 large or 2 small leeks, about 1 pound • 3 sprigs Dr. Rocket organic parsley • 1 bay leaves • 1 sprig Dr. Rocket organic thyme • 2 tablespoons butter • 2 strips bacon, chopped

• 1/2 cup dry white wine • 5 cups chicken stock • 1 to 1 1/4 pounds russet potatoes, diced • 1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Bay leaves, an appropriate seasoning for fish, meat and poultry, are widely used throughout the world to flavour soups, sauces, stews and courts-bouillons. They are often included as a pickling spice.

These herbs, are used for their pungent and resinous characteristics, and are typically used in dishes that cook for a long time to release their flavour. The herbs are either bundled together with a natural string or they are put in a cheesecloth bag, so that they can be removed at the end of the cooking.

Potato and Leek Soup

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) has fragrant evergreen needle-like leaves. The name derives from the Latin name rosmarinus, which is from “dew” (ros) and “sea” (marinus), or “dew of the sea”, because in the Mediterranean Region where it originated, it is frequently found growing near the sea.

• Rosemary

• 3/4 teaspoon white pepper • 1/2 to 3/4 cup creme fraiche or heavy cream • 2 tablespoons snipped Dr Rocket organic chives

PREPARATIONS Trim the green portions of the leek and, using 2 of the largest and longest leaves, make a bouquet garni by folding the 2 leaves around the parsley, the bay leaf and the thyme. Tie into a package-shaped bundle with kitchen twine and set aside. (Alternately, tie 2 leek leaves, parsley, bay leaf and

Rosemary has a very old reputation for improving memory, and has been used as a symbol for remembrance (during weddings, war commemorations and funerals) in Europe and Australia.

Parsley is used in the Fines Herbs as well as the Bouquet Garni, and having already written about it in the previous article, I will omit it in this one.

thyme together in a piece of cheesecloth. Using a sharp knife, halve the white part of the leek lengthwise and rinse well under cold running water to rid the leek of any sand. Slice thinly crosswise and set aside.

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) is a small plant with tiny leaves, which are greenish grey in colour. The name derivates from a Greek word that means to fumigate, as it was used as incense for its balsamic odor and was believed to put to flight all venomous creatures. The Romans used it to flavour cheeses and liqueurs. The essential oil of thyme is thymol, an antiseptic, which is the main active ingredient in Listerine mouthwash. Before the advent of modern antibiotics, it was used to medicate bandages. Thyme boiled in water and cooled is very effective against inflammation of the throat when gargled 3 times a day. A tea made by the herb in water can be used for coughs and bronchitis. It is a good source of iron. 24 TASTE | May - June 2009

Thyme, while flavourful, does not overpower and blends well with other herbs and spices. Is often used to flavour meats, soups and stews. It has a particular affinity to and is often used as a primary flavour with lamb, tomatoes and eggs. In some Middle Eastern countries, the condiment za’atar ( Arabic for thyme) contains thyme as a vital ingredient. Bay leaf (Laurus nobilis) is the aromatic leaf of Bay laurel, it originated in Asia Minor, from where it spread to the Mediterranean countries. The laurel tree that the bay leaf comes from was very important both symbolically and literally in both Greece and Rome as a symbol of honor. Emperors, heroes and poets wore wreaths of laurel leaves.

• Thyme

Rosemary contains a number of potentially biologically active compounds, including antioxidants such as carnosic acid and rosmarinic acid. The results of a study suggest that carnosic acid may shield the brain from free radicals, lowering the risk of strokes and neurodegenerative diseases like Alzheimer’s and Lou Gehrig’s. Rosemary helps to relax muscles, including the smooth muscles of the digestive tract and uterus. Because of this property it can be used to soothe digestive upsets and relieve menstrual cramps.

In a large soup pot over medium heat, melt the butter and add the bacon. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is very soft and has rendered most of its fat. Add the chopped leeks and cook until wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Add the reserved bouquet garni, chicken stock, potatoes, salt and white pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are falling apart and the soup is very flavorful. Remove the bouquet garni and, working in batches, puree the soup in a

However in large amounts it can achieve the opposite effect. Cosmetically, an infusion can be used as a rinse to lighten blond hair, to condition and tone all hair and mixed half and half with shampoo to strengthen hair.

food processor or blender. (Alternately, if you own an immersion blender, puree the soup directly in the pot.) Stir in the creme fraiche and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Serve immediately, with some of the snipped chives sprinkled over the top

• Italian Parsley

Fresh rosemary is used to flavour soups, stews and meat dishes especially lamb and chicken.

of each bowl of soup.

May - June 2009 | TASTE 25

wine story

VON SIEBENTHAL CARABANTES SYRAH violets, red berries, bluberries, spice, herbs, mint

The Wine Dinner Dilemma

sweet, slight toasty oak, blueberry, herbs, red berries, white pepper

from Indowine

CHEESE crème brule of goat cheese with beetroot garlic grissini

signature dish by Bastian Mantey © image courtesy of the laguna resort & spa

By Katrina Valkenburg What comes first, the chicken or the egg? This is one of life’s eternal mysteries. However, this is a wine column and therefore the question to be asked is – What comes first, the food or the wine?

If you were preparing a dinner at home, the answer would most likely be the food. You would decide on a menu and then match appropriate wines based on weight and texture. Similarly, when you go to a restaurant, most people would scan the menu, decide on what they shall order for the first and second course, and then select the wines. But what happens when you are hosting a wine dinner? In most cases, the chef will be sent samples of the wines to be served in advance so that, having tasting them, can design a complementary menu. Often the chef will incorporate a couple of the wines into the courses to be served, either by way of a marinade for the protein or vegetables or as a major ingredient in the dish, such as a red wine jelly. Similarly, if you belonged to the rarefied world of wine collectors who cellar their hallowed investment until they believe the wines have come of age, you would always choose the wine before working out a menu. 26 TASTE | May - June 2009

However, many times in Bali I have discovered that this is not necessarily the case. Perhaps as a result of unbelievably high taxes and tariffs, the cost of the wine precludes the distributor or producer sending samples to the chef. Instead, a list of the wines with tasting notes attached may be sent out, for which the chef will then be expected to design an appropriate menu, resulting in a very mixed bag of complementary taste sensations. Designing a menu this way is an extraordinarily difficult thing to do. Firstly, marketing people who want to impress (or confuse) the potential customer write the tasting notes, often using a string of florid adjectives thrown together that may or may not be particularly helpful. Secondly, those same marketing people may not be well versed in the product – wine – as often they will have come from marketing other products, from rubber gloves to hairspray. Thirdly, it is rare (by no means impossible) to find a Chef who is au fait with the gamut of the wines available globally, let alone particular vintages, their aging potential and intrinsic qualities. A chef’s focus is primarily on the food and they generally leave the selection of wine to the Sommelier or restaurant patron. However, if the chef has been sent samples in

advance, chances are that he/she will create a sumptuous menu echoing the multitude of flavours and aromas apparent in the wines. Well known wine aficionado and GM of Bulgari Hotel and Resort, Robert Lagerway, responded when we asked the question “What comes first, the food or the wine?” with, “Wines are important when creating a Food and Wine Experience and often serve as a base for the Culinary Creation. By the same token it is understood that especially here in Indonesia, products are not always available well in advance, so one has to rely on one’s knowledge and experience in creating the experience.  Often we try to match food and wine with such passion that we forget that it is acceptable and fun to have combinations that push the envelope a bit and that cross new boundaries”. Chef Andrew Skinner had even more to say: “…..we aim only to do the most amazing wines for our soirees at the Bulgari. But if we were to ask for a bottle of each of the wines to be served, which could be as many as five varietals, often the cost of each bottle will be hundreds of dollars.” “If the wines are very special and the attendees very low - the on cost is still very significant as a hidden cost in the menu. Then the menu appears very expensive and an establishment may be seen as gouging the guest for his

special experience. If you imagine 5 x $200 for a dinner for 20, then you’re already at $50 per person before you start on the price of the menu.” “Most guests in Bali expect to be blown away on both fronts. Hence a contradiction, as the chef ultimately strives also to deliver a Culinary WOW, while the Vintner wants the attention drawn to his wine.” When we asked Chef Oscar Perez from the newly opened St Regis the same question, his response was immediate; “For me it should merge/a perfect pairing which makes a memorable experience. That’s the effect I am searching for. Other people’s opinion is what defines them as a chef/individual. Every chef/individual is different and it is always challenging to make everyone happy due to different tastes. And if everyone thinks the same, then life would be boring and there’d be nothing to talk about”. So, in wrapping up this diatribe, I give the last words to Chef Andrew Skinner “Finally, even with a bottle of wine in hand, the marriage of food & wine is so subjective that for some the marriage may be perfect, while for others it just does not seem to CLICK................ funny, a bit like real life ..........” Katrina is a wine educator and consultant. Contact: [email protected] May - June 2009 | TASTE 27

Barman Komang Bull

distilling the tuak, arak is produced. The distilled alcohol generally has an alcohol content of around 40%.

Ginger mojito with ginger infused arak

Chandi’s vanilla arak

Vanilla cream and Chandi’s own vanilla-infused arak

All berry daiquiri

on the rocks

Arak with

Sex Appeal Shunning the perception of cheap cocktails served in jam jars and dodgy welcome drinks with fruit sticking out of them, Chandi restaurant has committed to raising the bar when it comes to arak. Chandi’s signature Sangriatiki

The distilled arak is used both as a base alcohol for cocktails including daiquiris, creamy cocktails and a sangria mix that is full of wonderful local fruit and as shots or shorts using the alcohol infused with local flavours such as ginger and vanilla. “We are still experimenting with other infusions, some have worked and others haven’t. Our customers love it. The cocktails are delicious, well made and despite the reputation, people don’t have any worse hangovers than with other alcohol,” says Kirsten. Changing my perceptions wasn’t as difficult as I first thought. Hving a tasting with wine columnist Katrina Valkenberg, we agreed that most of the cocktails were a great success.

Chef Agung, trained in New York, together with his wife and Creative Director Kirsten, have developed a concept aimed at creating revitalising Indonesian cuisine. So when it came to setting up the bar, Kirsten set herself the challenge of sourcing high quality arak and creating fabulous infusions and cocktails.

Komang slowly came around and the two set out to visit local producers, of which there are not many legitimate ones, to find the best supplier they could. Much of it was a matter of tasting it, getting to know the suppliers, talking to local retailers who stock it and basing their choice on those factors.

“When I first suggested it to our bartender, Komang Bull, he thought I was joking. The more I considered it, the more it made sense to serve a local favourite in a modern Indonesian restaurant,” she explains.

Arak is a specialty in Bali. The cheaper version tuak is a raw product made from fermenting the sap of the coconut tree and is served in many local warungs and used for ceremonies. After filtering it and

Saturday nights are party nights at Chandi, usually with proceeds going to benefit one of their pet charities and people pour in. The price is a factor in convincing people to buy the arak cocktails, but once tried most people are converted. Deciding to delve into some more in-depth research, I threw myself into the fray one Saturday night and I can say emphatically, there is nothing wrong with their ginger mojitos, in fact, they are bloody good!

Chandi Restaurant Jl Laksmana no 72 Tel: 0361 731060 May - June 2009 | TASTE 29

techniques

The (im)Perfect

Pavlova The pavlova is considered the national dessert of Australia, although legend has it that it was a New Zealander who first created the frothy meringue mixture to celebrate the Russian ballerina. Such is the tricky nature of creating the perfect pavlova that in fact books are devoted to it, discussions abound. A wellknown bookshop cum cafè that celebrates all things cooking, Books For Cooks located in London’s Notting Hill, devotes space in each of their annual collection of recipes to discuss the ins and outs of pavlova making.

The sugar needs to be added slowly and dissolved before adding more or little sugar droplets will form on the outside.

Stephanie Alexander’s pavlova: 6 egg whites (room temperature) pinch of salt 2cups/360 g. caster sugar 2tsp cornflour

Meringue hates any kind of grease. The humidity of the tropics is another area of difficulty. The pavlova here should be cooled in the oven where it is dry. If you plan to keep it, Ben, head chef at kudeta, suggests you place it in a cool room (not refrigerated) in a container with silicon beads to absorb any liquid. It will not keep more than 1 or 2 days maximum.

1 tsp vinegar (1 cup heavy cream and 15 passion fruit if using) Heat the oven to 180C grease a baking tray and line with paper. Draw a circle on the paper. Put the egg whites and a pinch of salt into a clean bowl and whisk until stiff. Start adding the sugar, 1 tbsp at a time, whisking well after each addition. Continue until whites are stiff

Some tips from the experts: Books For Cooks tips: There is one factor in pavlova making it is difficult to control, namely the oven. It is important to understand the basic principle. What you want is a short blast to crisp the outside and then a long period of low heat to set the inside (but not dry it out like meringue). 30 TASTE | May - June 2009

and glossy and sugar is completely dissolved.

Classic Pavlovas. The traditional pavlova is filled with whipped cream and toipped with strawberries and passion fruit. There are however so many variations. A firm favourite is marinated strawberries, raspberries and crushed hazelnuts. Kiwi Fruit, chocolate, nuts, almost anything can be adapted to the basic recipe.

Last of all whisk in the cornflour and vinegar. Shape the meringue within the circle as you like (round and flat at the top or with raised sides like a pie). Bake for 5 minutes and then reduce the heat to 130C and cook for one hour and fifteen minutes. Cool completely and fill with whipped cream and fruit of your choice.

spa cuisine

Coconut Pad Thai with spicy almond sauce

Bliss at Brandon Huisman is known in the community as an innovative chef and a down to earth guy. It took him over a year however, to finally get down to tackling a new menu for the resort’s spa, Bliss. When he finally got serious, he spent six months researching various books and internet sites on raw, vegan and healthy food before finally coming up with his new menu. Each dish has been weighed and meticulously broken down to give exact nutritional information and kilojoule counts. In his own words, “It was one of those jobs I kept putting off but once I got down to it, I found it fascinating and ultimately really satisfying,” Guests at the Bliss Spa at the Bale, Nusa Dua are in for more than just a wonderful spa experience; resident executive chef Brandon Huisman has recently spent some quality time creating a new spa menu that encompasses nutrition and taste in one beautifully balanced offering.

of zucchini to mimic the pasta in lasagna are just two of the surprisingly versatile vegetable substitutes and the addition of hearts of palm into a traditional ceviche adds an exotic twist.

Spiced rare tuna

Polenta tamales on sweet corn and mushroom ragout

Brandon however has found his home here in Bali and relishes the opportunities he has found working in a forward-thinking and dynamic company that is constantly looking, not just to meet the needs of their guests, but to lead the way in offering inspiring lifestyle choices for leisure and renewal.

Brandon drew on many personal culinary experiences to create a menu he felt would satisfy a nutritional need as well as one that would not just appeal to the palate but tantalize it as well. Adapting recipes to suit the freshest local produce and drawing on his adaptive skills as an alchemical chef he is now happy with the ability of both his staff and the quality of the produce, to launch his new menu. Brandon brings together a compliment of raw and cooked foods utilizing vegetables, seafood, chicken and grains to give guests an opportunity to try something new within the parameters of the familiar. For example the Rice Paper Ravioli that is served with a pumpkin and saffron broth has a texture that is instantly palatable with a heady mixture of flavors that stimulate the taste buds with a mix of curiosity and delight. Using young coconut to great effect as noodles in a Pad Thai and layering thin slices 32 TASTE | May - June 2009

Echoes of Brandon’s ‘cooking roots’ are evident in the offerings, and although the Tamales on the Bliss Menu are unlikely to be found in the eating houses of Houston there remains a touch of the Tex-Mex to pay homage to his first cooking experiences while the flavour of the Mediterranean in dishes like the Golden Gazpacho and the tender poached chicken served with couscous are influenced by his European training and travels.

Eggplant rolls stuffed with tofu,

Exotic fruits and chopped nuts

ricotta and basil

with banana tofu ice cream

In order to enhance the residential experience, the introduction of a vitality packed and highly nutritious menu is essential. The Bliss Spa menu is only one of Brandon’s offerings, from the main kitchen a comprehensive menu, drawing from the same principals of as much fresh local produce as possible, is available along with a selective wine list featuring some of the best imported wines in the world. A delicious desert selection is also on hand to tempt the less disciplined. It is all about the choices we make, and Brandon’s various menus at The Bale offer plenty from the healthy to the indulgent. The Bliss Menu at the Bale is available at Bliss Spa, The Bale, Nusa Dua

Organic Quinoa salad INGREDIENTS: 1.5 tbsp Curry vinaigrette Recipe attached 3 T Cooked organic quinoa 1/4 cup Thin slice nashi pear 1/3 cup Baby spinach 1/3 cup Frisee lettuce 1/3 cup Wild Rocket 1 tsp sliced chive

1 T Toasted sliced almonds 1.5 T Papaya Fine Dice 1 tsp Lime juice Black pepper/Sea Salt METHOD: 1. Mix above ingredients together 2. Stack nicely on plate, garnish with edible flowers

Curry Vinaigrette for Quinoa salad INGREDIENTS: 1 T White wine vinegar .5 tsp Dry mustard 2 T Lime juice .5 T minced shallot .5 T Minced garlic 3 T grapeseed oil

1.5 tsp Madras curry powder Salt/pepper to taste METHOD: Add all ingredients in blender except oil, slowly add oil while blending

Nasi Hu’uduk

Playing with local favourites is a personal quest of Philip Mimbimi, Nutmegs’ talented American chef so not surprisingly he chose to serve BCP members a family style lunch drawing on traditional styles. From spring rolls to the spicy rice cooked in coconut milk from which this style of nasi campur (mixed rice) derives its name a string of innovative and creative dishes were served that harked back to traditional Indonesian dishes and spiced with familiar flavours. Playing with the name of Hu’u was a nice twist that marked a memorable day for the many members and guests in attendance on a hot February day. (And no one ended up in the pool!)

Twists on Tapas

A Spanish resort in Bali with a French chef is bound to produce some twists and Executive Chef, Christian Bealieu, did not fail to disappoint when his turn to host BCP came around. With a brilliantly presented tapas plate as first course, featuring some innovative modern dishes individually labelled on the serving dish lead into a meltingly wonderful meat course for mains and a refreshing, and perfectly presented dessert finished off the meal perfectly and showed that this chef has all the basics mastered and can turn his hand to almost anything. The Sangria was a hit as well.

BCP Membership 2009 NAME Simon Yap Dienly Wong Winyoto Josef Zopf David Smith Reina Triastuty Vynna Indra Vera Lukito Olaf Aistleitner Ni Wayan Santo Asih Adrianto Mulia Haryanto Mulia Alexander Erich Ketut Sukamara Attila Koermoeczi Ayung Ko Jung Lien Ivan Prakarsa Sutedjo Mario Caramella Peter Rieger Isabella Lin Endris Yuliawati Sugihanto Sachid Michael Heriyono Nyoman Sudiarna I Wayan Budiarsa Andrew Skinner Heinz Von Holzen I Made Darsana Dennis Langlois I Gde Rastarama Dhany Parwanto Bayu Lagimin Joanes Cantius Tjoeng Kib Roby Betty Subekty Inneke Hoo Eka Saputra Made Sebastian Suanda Djoko Sebastian Hermann Feigl AA Rai Gunawan I Nyoman Candra I Nyoman Wirata Terry Deweer Johan Meyers Agung Pradnya Dewa Ayu Sarawoot Lerdmaleewong Herlina Manurung Eko Putranto Wayan Sumerta Klaus Kalweit Nyoman Maleachi I Nyoman Warta I Wayan Gelgel Swee Leong (Bobby) Wong Made Widana I Gusti Ketut Oka Saptono Wayan Widiana Ernst Jaeck Sang Ketut Jiwa Ida Ayu Sutamaya David Tan Anik Purwati Leony Rossalia Hartono Philip Parfait Ekoto Mimbima Rositha Wardhani Arie Sumartini Bill Marinelli Helmut Walter Schafer Pramudya Bevan Sarita Sanowi I Nyoman Parwata Ayu Catur Wati John Reese Rene Oskam Niniek TS Edward Kwon Gian Luigi Gerosa Felix Schmid Dale Schnell Laurent Varachaud I Ketut Sudana Wayan Merta Astawa 36 TASTE | May - June 2009

COMPANY Asri Indonesia, PT Asri Indonesia, PT Asri Indonesia, PT Aerowisata Catering Service Alam boga Alam boga Alam boga Anantara Arena Sport Café Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT Aston Kuta Ayodya Resort Ayodya Resort Bali Bakery Bali Bakery Bali Bakery Bali Hyatt Balivillas.com Balivillas.com Balivillas.com Bapak Bakery Buana Agung Lestari Buana Agung Lestari Buana Agung Lestari Bulgari Bumbu Bali Canggu Club Carrefour Classic Fine Foods Classic Fine Foods Classic Fine Foods Delta Satria Dewata, PT Dharma teas Dineta Jaya Dineta Jaya Dineta Jaya Discovery Kartika Plaza Discovery Kartika Plaza Discovery Kartika Plaza Discovery Kartika Plaza Discovery Kartika Plaza Discovery Kartika Plaza DP Kitchen DP Kitchen Dwijaya Dwijaya Ecolab Ecolab Ecolab ex Discovery Four Seasons Resort Four Seasons Resort Four Seasons Resort Four Seasons Resort Four Seasons Resort Four Seasons Resort Four Seasons Resort Grand Hyatt Bali Grand Hyatt Bali Grand Hyatt Bali Griya Santrian Hotel Hocatsu Bali,PT Hocatsu Bali,PT Hocatsu Bali,PT Holidai Inn Hu’u Bali Ikan Segar Bali Ikan Segar Bali Ikan Segar Bali Illy Coffee Illy Coffee Indoguna Bali Indoguna Bali Indoguna Bali Intercontinental Intercontinental Inti Kulit Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Kayu Manis Nusa Dua Kayu Manis Nusa Dua

NAME I Made Budartha Wendy Jane Thomas I Gusti Nyoman Jaya Ralf Schmidt Komang Gede Subawa Roland Zauner Markus Reichl Henny Santoso Bill Busch Ayu Suharyani Patrick Marty Torsten Schubert Jeff Matthews Yannis van Heckerer Jayadi Hidayat Christian Beaulieu Alejandro Jimenez Real Ketut Sumatra Agustien Kantiana Christopher J Salans Robert Otillie Stefan Mueller I Made Sumariana I Gusti Susrama Mekel I Made Sudana Sang Ketut Sumi Adnyana Katarina Sari Juergen Domani Ni Ayu Winarmi Reto Victor Torriani I Gusti Agung Alit Subawa I Ketut Mudana Darren Lauder Jeremy Cooper John Taylor Wayan Nurisa Ketut Pong Atmajaya Ian Roberts Kadek Widiantara Chung Chung Jahn Roger Carlos Vinas Barmona Dewi Rusmala Jimmy Julianto Neeta Malhotra Ing Gerold Eichinger Sven Hollinger Rick Bolt Enny Kudung Tutik Yantini Mr Robert Jansen Oscar Perez Edi Sidarta Rusli C.J. Lokman I Gusti Ngurah Arya Wibawa I Made Manahara Sally Made Adi Wibawa Helmin Dequelyu I Wayan Sudiana Nigel Ames Jacky Ames I Made Putra I Made Linggi Nyoman Wijana Ridwan Aprin Sukarno Putra Ida Bagus Partama Andreas Krampl Dean Keddel Ron Pietruszka I Made Lugra Michael Shaheen Ray Clark I Wayan Semudra Markus Krickelberg Shirkandi (lulu) Ni Made Kariani Budhi Setiawan Tedja Puri Danandari Prodjo Kristini Sutirta Andi Ayu Purnama Claire Quinn Kevin Sinclair Made Witha

COMPANY Kayu Manis Nusa Dua Kevala Ceramics Kori Restaurant Kori Restaurant Kori Restaurant Kupu Barong Legian Beach Hotel Lotus Distribution Lotus Distribution Lotus Distribution Ma Joly Maldives Mandara Spa Mannekepis Bistro Masuya Graha Trikencana, PT Megah Food Trading Melia Bali Melia Bali Melia Benoa MIC Mozaic Nemo Wetsuit Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Padma Bali Padma Bali Padma Bali Pamerindo Papa’s Café Papaya Fresh Gallery Pepito Café Pica Tapas Pica Tapas Pica Tapas Queens tandoor Raja Bamboo, CV Satria Pangan Sejati Smart Energy Soejasch Soejasch Soejasch St Regis Bali St Regis Bali Sukanda Djaya, PT Sukanda Djaya, PT Sukanda Djaya, PT Suli Harta, UD Suli Harta, UD Suli Harta, UD The Bali Khama The Beach House The Beach House The Laguna The Laguna The Laguna The Laguna The Laguna The Laguna The Ritz-Carlton The Ritz-Carlton The Ritz-Carlton Osaka The Samaya The Samaya The Samaya The Samaya The Westin Tirta Sakti Mandiri Tirta Sakti Mandiri Tirta Sakti Mandiri Unilever Food Solutions Unilever Food Solutions Unilever Food Solutions Villa Coco Watergarden Hotel Witha Bakery

Sponsorship

Salon Culinaire 2009 Contract Status

Sponsorship Name

Contract Status

SUKANDA DJAYA

Gold

NESTLE INDOFOOD

Gold

SARANA KULINA

Gold

TULIP CHOC

Gold

NIRWANA LESTARI 1

Gold

PANDURASA

Gold

FONTERA

Gold

NAYATI

Gold

SOEJASCH BALI

Gold

HAGEEN DASZ

Silver

CLASSIC FINE FOOD

Gold

ROYAL SULTAN AGUNG

Bronze

ELOMA

Gold

SANYO

Bronze

MFK

Gold

TOZA

Bronze

UNILEVER

Gold

MUNIK

Bronze

MLA

Gold

GREAT UNIFORM

Bronze

PRAMBANAN KENCANA

Gold

DELICATESA

Bronze

INDOGUNA

Gold

J&J SEAFOOD

Bronze

Sponsorship Name

Next BCP Lunch Venue : Hotel Padma Bali Address : Jl. Padma 1 Legian, Bali Day/date : Saturday, 28 June 2009 Time : 12.30

chefs day-out

David & Dimpy

Proving he is more than a pretty face, and a talented chef with impressive experience, Alam Boga’s, David Smith, stepped in to help fellow BCP Members, Nigel and Jackie Ames as they prepared for the opening of their new Scallywags Restaurant and Hotel in Gili Trawangan. With less than a week before opening, scheduled for March 26, the owners found themselves without an executive chef and much work to be done to get their new kitchen ready. “I came in to help them set up their systems, get their ordering and budgeting on line and introduced a carvery to their existing menu,” says David. Working with Scallywags head cook, Dimpy, a kitchen professional, David offered to help with the installation of the new equipment as well as going through some basic kitchen skills with the chefs. Formerly a chef himself, with experience at The Regent in Sydney and time spent working under the legendary chef, Serge Dansereau at Sydney’s famous Bather’s Pavilion, before coming to Indonesia and joining the Papa’s group, David brought considerable experience to the job.

38 TASTE | May - June 2009

“Hey”, he said, “these guys are mates, and good customers. I just came to lend a hand,” he said. The new restaurant is beside the former one, which is still operating, so in effect the size of the restaurant is now doubled. The couple and their partners Made and Anna Ramlie, who also own Echo Beach in Canggu, already feature a seafood and meat barbecue at night, in addition to a large menu that features mains, burgers, salads and tapas. “There was a quiet area at one end of the new restaurant so I introduced a carvery there to attract guests to the other end of the property. As Villa Ombak is next door and The Beach House on the other side, there is a lot of traffic here and the carvery is another reason for customers to stop,” he says.

scratch, timing the various meats and finishing the roast vegetable selection (just like Mum’s!) as well as manning the carvery himself at night. Of course, it isn’t all work in Gili Trawangan and David found time to surf, swim and check out the night life as well. Other friends also came to help, with Marco de Leonardis (Dr Rocket) taking his turn in the kitchen to show the staff how to make hand formed pasta, while Taste consultant Sarah Dougherty took some holiday time out to introduce new desserts. During one of the island’s busiest periods, the Nyepi holiday for Bali, the new ten room resort and the bar and restaurant operated at capacity and friends and strangers alike kept the party atmosphere in full swing. There is little doubt that David won’t be quitting his day job to relocate to Gili T, but there are plenty of worse places to hang your chefs hat.

www. scally wags resort .com It worked a treat and had David in the kitchen by day, teaching the staff how to make a delicious home-style gravy from

Tel: (0370) 645301 (reception) Fax: (0361) 631945 South Beach - Gili Trawangan, Lombok