Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
STUTTGART June - July 2006
Automobiles Visiting Mercedes and Porsche
Football events Win or lose, this is where to party
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CONTENTS
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents Arriving
5
Getting there and oriented
In Your Pocket begrüßt in seiner Reihe der Stadtführer auch diese schöne Stadt.
History
6
Romans, medieval kings and football
Die In Your Pocket City Guides verstehen sich als kostenlose Stadtführer.Unsere Zielgruppe ist klar! Unsere Leser besuchen die Stadt und wissen weder was die Butter in Hamburg kostet, noch warum die Münchner blasse Wurst essen und wo diese wirklich schmeckt.
Glossary
7
The basics
Events
8
What’s going on
Unsere Leser sind Touristen und Geschäftsreisende: sie möchten sich die Stadt ansehen, Vorführungen genießen, Essen & Trinken, Postkarten schreiben, oder in ihrer freien Zeit Ausstellungen besuchen und ein typisches Souvenir kaufen.
World Cup events
11
Have a ball
Spa Culture
12
Taking a dunking
Aber unsere Leser sprechen kein Wort Deutsch!
Wine
Wir geben den internationalen Reisenden ausführliche Informationen über Ihr Unternehmen und präsentieren Ihre Leistungen in englischer Sprache.
13
Stuttgart’s viney surroundings
Where to stay
SB
14
From park bench to Park Grand
Restaurants Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
FRANKFURT
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
MUNICH
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
COLOGNE
21
28
What to see
32
Sights in and around town
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
HAMBURG
HANOVER
Daytrips
June - July 2006
April - May 2006
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Nightlife Bars, clubs and general debauchery
From fine dining to fast food
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38
Black forest, two Badens and beyond
New Look Revamped In Your Pocket
Museums by night Join the all-night culture fest
Getting around
39
Feature 1 Short description of the feature. Should be max. 3 lines.
Trains, planes and taxis
Football events
!
Feature 2 - max 2 lines
Revamped In Your Pocket
Win or lose, this is where to party
Short description of the feature. Should be max. 3 lines.
!" The river tour season opens N°21 - €1.75 www.inyourpocket.com
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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
LEIPZIG
KAISERSLAUTERN
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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
June - July 2006
June - July 2006
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Down in the docks
River tours Wine and dine on the Rhine
RUHRGEBIET
NUREMBERG
June - July 2006
June - July 2006
Harbour tours
Football events Win or lose, this is where to party
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Mail & Phones
41
Heed your calling
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
STUTTGART Including Dortmund, Gelsenkirchen, Essen and Bochum
Shopping
June - July 2006
Ruhrpott industrial tourism
42
Souvenirs, food and books
Up towers, down shafts
Automobiles Visiting Mercedes and Porsche
Going medieval A tour through the old town
Football events
Directory
Win or lose, this is where to party
Football events Win or lose, this is where to party
Football events
Win or lose, this is where to party
Win or lose, this is where to party
44
Banks, pharmacies and hairdressers
Football events
Brought back to life
Going Palatine Strolling in the forest
Plagwitz’ industrial revival N°1 - ??price?? www.inyourpocket.com
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Maps & Index
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Street register City map Transport maps Index
45 46-47 48-49 50
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June - July 2006
4
ARRIVING
FOREWORD Stuttgart has been described as the world’s biggest village, and it’s not only this paradox that makes it worth a visit. Nestled in the Neckar valley, one quickly gets the feeling of knowing the city, yet it is the third largest metropolitan area in Germany.
Europe In Your Pocket
Arriving by plane
Though the German national drink is beer, Stuttgart is Germany’s biggest winemaking area. Sausages are popular here, but Stuttgarters prefer the raviolilike Maultaschen, inside which meat is hidden when they shouldn’t be eating any. And after the city’s team, VfB Stuttgart, survived a mediocre and testing (2 coach changes) season, every Stuttgarter is waiting for redemption during the FIFA World Championships.
Stuttgart airport is 13km from the city centre. From the airport to the downtown, take the train S2 or S3. The one-way fare is €2.90. A taxi to the centre will cost about €26.
Arriving by train
Enjoy Stuttgart, and remember to write in with any comments about the city, or about this city guide, at
[email protected].
Stuttgart’s gleaming new KunstMuseum building, known as the cube, proudly forms a new highlight in the city centre. See the Sightseeing chapter for more information.
Arriving by car Stuttgart is connected to the Autobahn network with the A8 to Munich to the south-east and Karlsruhe to the north-west, and the A81 heading south to Singen and the Swiss border, and north Heilbronn and Würtzburg. When arriving, follow the S-Zentrum signs, and use P+R to keep your parking costs low (see Transport). Keep an eye out for Mercedes prototypes being taken for a spin on the Autobahns around Stuttgart or in the city itself. Areas to try to avoid during rush-hour include Pragsattel on the route from the A81 from Ludwigsburg to the centre; A8 direction Karlsruhe around Pforzheim; A81 direction south from Stuttgart to Herrenberg on Fridays and holidays.
Picturesque hills surround the city and parks fill the calm centre, but the economy bustles with production in the automobile sector. Inhabited by a folk obsessed with cleanliness and tradition, Stuttgart is also home to one of the most technologically and research-driven areas in Germany.
Cover story
5
In Your Pocket continues to expand, launching no less than eight new city guides in Germany, in time for the soccer World Cup. All World Cup host cities now have their own In Your Pocket, in print and available locally at hotels, and also online as both browseable text and a free downloadable PDF guide. Apart from that, there’s the free Football In Your Pocket insert guide which can be found in all In Your Pocket guides in Germany - the booklet has information on teams and stadiums and has a nifty fixtures table. Elsewhere, new guides will hit the streets of Kosovo, Macedonia and Montenegro this summer. If you would like to be a part of the Pocket group, publishing your own guide, contact us at
[email protected] for more details. You can also keep up to date with the latest developments by logging on to www.inyourpocket.com/press.
Stuttgart’s main train station, or Hauptbahnhof, is just east of the city centre, a few minutes walk from all the action. Inside, the DB ReiseZentrum railroad travel agency (open 08:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-16:00, Sun 13:00-18:00, longer during the World Cup) sells all tickets. The Arnulf-Klett-Passage is a large underground commercial centre that connects the station with the VVS regional trains and trams; find the VVS-Kundenzentrum public transport customer service centre here (open 09:00-18:30, Sat 09:00-16:00, Sun 11:00-16:00). It also connects directly to Königstrasse, the main shopping mile and pedestrian artery of Stuttgart, with the tourist information centre.
SB
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Stuttgart In Your Pocket
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June - July 2006
6
HISTORY
GLOSSARY During World War II, the city centre of Stuttgart was nearly completely destroyed during Allied air raids. In 1945, the Allied Forces took control of Germany. They merged parts of the former German States of Baden and Württemberg. In 1952, the democratic state Baden-Württemberg (the third largest German state) with Stuttgart as its capital was created by referendum. The inhabitants of Baden felt deceived and a (more or less) friendly rivalry exists between the two parts until today.
About 950, Stuttgart was founded by Duke Liudolf of Swabia, one of the sons of the Holy Roman Emperor Otto I the Great, and used for horse breeding (especially for his father’s cavalry, see Battle of Lechfeld). The original name, “Stutengarten”, in English roughly “mare garden” or “stud farm” and the coat of arms of the city, a black, rampant horse on a golden field, come from this early settlement. About 1300, Stuttgart became the residence of the counts of Württemberg. In 1496, they were promoted to dukes by the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. After Napoleon’s break-up of the Holy Roman Empire, they earned the title of kings and Stuttgart became a royal residence. The name of the royal family of Württemberg and of the state originates from a steep Stuttgart hill, formerly known as the Wirtemberg, nowadays called the Württemberg. On top of this hill, the mausoleum of Queen Katharina (daughter of Czar Paul I of Russia) and King Wilhelm I of Württemberg was built in 1824. During the revolution of 1848-1849, a democratic panGerman national parliament was formed in Frankfurt to overcome the division of Germany. The members of this parliament were driven out of Frankfurt, and the most radical members (those who wanted to establish a republic) fled to Stuttgart. A short while later, this rump parliament was dissolved by the Württemberg military. In 1871, as an autonomous kingdom, Württemberg joined the German Empire or Kaiserreich, created by the Prussian prime minister Otto von Bismarck through diplomacy and several wars. After World War I, the monarchy broke down and the Free State of Württemberg was established, as a part of the Weimar Republic. In 1920, Stuttgart was the seat of the German National Government, since the administration had to flee from Berlin.
Stuttgart In Your Pocket
On 6 September 1946 an early concept of the Marshall Plan to support the reconstruction and economic and political recovery of Europe was presented during a speech given by US Secretary o f S tate Ja m es B yrn es at the Stuttgart Opera House. This speech led directly to the unification of the British and American occupation zones, resulting in the so called bi-zone. Two years later, the French also joined the bi-zone, creating the tri-zone and thereby paving the way for the foundation of the Federal Republic of Germany. Stuttgart, like Frankfurt, was a serious contender to become the federal capital, but finally Bonn succeeded. In the late 1970s, the district of Stammheim was centre stage to one of the most controversial periods of German post-war history: the trial of the Red Army Faction terrorist group at the Stammheim high-security court and the subsequent suicides of Ulrike Meinhof, Andreas Baader, Gudrun Ensslin and Jan-Carl Raspe (all imprisoned in the Stammheim jail). The trial and the period thereafter were accompanied by several new terrorist assaults to liberate the inmates. During the Cold War, the joint command centre of all American military forces in Europe, Africa and the Atlantic was moved to Stuttgart (US European Command, EUCOM). EUCOM is headquartered there till today. Since the 1970s, a stable conservative government, intensive R&D investment, and tradition for mechanical and high-tech engineering have led to constant economic growth and prosperity. Even as other German cities struggle with many issues, Stuttgart and the area around have consistently had low unemployment, high educational standards, and a good distribution of wealth.
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Driving Germany has a brilliant network of Autobahn (motorways, prefixed A) and Bundesstrasse roads (major roads, prefixed by B. Traffic drives on the right with speed limits of 130km/h or 100km/h outside built-up areas, and 50km/h in builtup areas. And indeed, there are really no speed limits on Autobahnen which makes for some fun driving and some truly ghastly accidents. Keep a close eye on the rear mirror if you’re planning to overtake or if you’re in the left lane, as those headlights in the distance behind you may get uncomfortably close very quickly. Seatbelts must be worn at all times and children under 12 years can only travel in the front seat with a child restraint. German laws are strict by many accounts when it comes to driving after you have had a few pints, glasses or snifters full of booze. The legal maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%.
Language The German language has been somewhat misrepresented in the foreign media over the past decades, and when you hear it spoken it’s not as harsh as you may expect. Although you won’t be able to learn it on a short trip, it’s always nice to memorise a few key terms like thank you (danke), please (bitte), hello (gutentag) and goodbye (auf wiedersehen). You’ll notice that written German has some odd characters, such as the ß, the ü, ö and ä. Annoyingly, these are interchangeable with combinations of letters and can (and often are) replaced by ss, ue, oe and ae respectively – which explains why the website of Cologne (Köln) is spellt www.koeln.de.
Money The best way to get cash in Germany is to use an ATM machine, of which there are plenty all over the country. German banks do not charge for using foreign cards in their machines, so check with your own bank if you’ll pay any commission. Even if you do have to pay a euro or two to use an ATM, it’ll be better value and easier than going to one of the banks or train station exchange offices (like the Reisebank chain) as they have worse exchange rates and will charge a commission. Germany ditched the Deutsche mark in 2002, adopting the euro, pronounced locally as oi-ro. Germany’s economy is the largest in Europe, and therefore the majority of coins in circulation now are German ones; you’ll see Berlin’s Brandenburg Gate on the €0.10, €0.20 and €0.50 coins, and the German eagle flapping around on the €1 and €2. the banknotes, if you’re wondering, are the same for the whole of euroland, and are adorned with generic European bridges.
Shopping practicalities German retail laws were incredibly strict in the past, with shops not even regularly opening on Saturdays a year just a decade ago, and still are not as flexible as elsewhere. On Sundays nearly everything shuts down, with perhaps just a few shops at the train station open, and on Saturdays you’ll see many smaller shops closing around 14:00. Though it may thwart your purchasing plans, it does result in a special relaxed feel to the Sundays, which is quite nice for a change. Credit cards are still to be embraced by most shops, much to the annoyance to big-spending foreigners. This is due to the system of electronic debit card payments that was in place in Germany and other mainland European countries much earlier; this is a safer and cheaper system than credit card as it always requires PIN identicication rather than a signature, and is free of the 3% commission for the shopkeepers (eventually paid by you, dear shopper).
Swabian food Stuttgarters pride themselves on the culinary tradition. Several local specialities differentiate the cuisine from other regions in Germany. Spätzle The most important word to learn if planning to eat local, Spätzle are noodles made of egg, flour, water and salt. They are eaten as side dishes with meat and normally drenched in thick sauces. As a main course, they are roasted with cheese and onions (Käsespätzle). Laugenbrezel The original pretzel came from the area, and once you’ve tried them here, all others will fade in comparison. The Laugenbrezel is produced by spraying a lye or brine mixture onto the unbaked dough. In the meantime, the Swabian bakers have turned this technique into an obsession, producing Laugen versions of all baked goods and pastries. A typical snack is a Laugenbrezel with butter - also available from small booths directly on the Königstr. Gaisburger Marsch Known as the national meal, this former peasants’ food is a casserole of Spätzle, potatoes, beef, vegetables, broth, onions roasted in butter. Linsen mit Saiten Lentils and sausage are a favourite of the Swabians, most often eaten with Spätzle. Maultaschen Ravioli-like and filled with sausage and mince meat, spinach, egg, onions and parsley. Originally, they were invented to cunningly hide meat on religious fast days. Schwäbischer Rostbraten Basically a good steak, but with a thick gravy and a topping of fried onions. Zwiebelkuchen After the grape harvest and the first mash has fermented, locals gather for outdoor festivals to stuff themselves with this onion pie and wash it down with the low-percentage “new wine”.
Safety Germany is a very safe country to travel in, and other than the usual precautions against pickpocketing, there are no special preparations you should make. Although Germany has been in the news recently for racist attacks, these incidents are quite rare and are by no means a purely German phenomenon. Germans are aware that their country is more closely scrutinised than others when it comes to this, and racism and violence is not tolerated, witness the impressive level of security around synagogues and Jewish institutions: sturdy barriers and round-the-clock armed guards.
Time Germany uses the 24-hour clock system, known as military time in some places, but as simply as ‘the time’ here. By doing away with all the am, pm, noon and midnight nonsense, it’s really quite useful for avoiding confusion, and Germany is one of the few places where the 24-hour clock is even used in spoken language. You may be told that the museum closes at sixteen-thirty, or that the train departs at twenty-thirtyeight.
Visas Citizens of EU and EEA countries do not need visas to enter Germany; most others do. For more details, visit the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, www.auswaertiges-amt.de. Germany is part of the Schengen treaty, which allows free flow of goods and traffic between member states. This means that your passport only gets checked when entering and leaving the Schengen area, and once you’re in, you can travel overland from Portugal to Finland without being stopped at the borders.
June - July 2006
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EVENTS
EVENTS LKA (State Police Department) Heiligenwiesen 6, MWan-
Art Galleries Generally, all information is in German only. KunstNächte is Art Night, held on the first Saturday of each month (3 Jun & 1 Jul) when participating museums/galleries open from 18:00 - 24:00.
Cinemas Corso Cinema International Hauptstr. 6, StuttgartVaihingen, tel. 73 49 16, www.corso-kino.com. Germans have a nasty habit of wanting everything foreign dubbed, be it on television or in the cinema. This is the main venue for undubbed films in Stuttgart, with two screens. Tickets €7.20, €3.50 on Tuesday.
Concert & Fair Halls Die Röhre D-2, Willy-Brandt-Strasse 2/1, MStaatsgalerie, www.roehre-konzerte.de. A former tunnel excavation that now serves as a concert venue for larger, more alternative events (from punk to death metal to gay events). Usually quite packed with the type of crowd that fits the event - so get info first.
Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion Mercedesstr. 87, MDaimler Stadion, www.gottlieb-daimler-stadion.de. Not only is this the location for the FIFA World Cup matches in Stuttgart, but also hosts various other sporting events, and even large concerts and gatherings like church activities. Considered one of the most modern venues, it can be flexibly adjusted to bad weather. Liederhalle B-3, Berliner Platz 1-3, MBerliner Platz, www.liederhalle-stuttgart.de. With different halls, the largest seating up to 1900 people, and its central location this is a favourite for concerts for all kinds of music, events and exhibitions, such as smaller trade shows.
gen Marktplatz, www.lka-longhorn.de. What’s in a name - here you’ll find mega-parties, excellent concerts and special events. Unfortunately, it’s a bit out of town, so you’ll either have to take a taxi or wander through the industrial area where it’s located.
Messe Killesberg Am Kochenhof 16, MKillesberg Messe, www.messe-stuttgart.de. Numerous special exhibitions, concerts, special events, conferences and, of course, trade fairs are held here year round, interesting for business travellers as well as the general public. From 2007 the main exhibition spaces will move to the airport.
Musikhochschulturm (Music University Tower) D-
3, Urbanstr. 25, MStaatsgalerie, tel. 212 46 57, www. mh-stuttgart.de. The postmodern concert hall of the Music University forms the base of this tower. The university, as the Staatsgalerie, is designed by James Sterling and Michael Wilford. Not only is the view great, but there frequent concerts by the students and professors of the university.
Schleyer-Halle Mercedesstr. 69, MDaimler Stadion, www.schleyerhalle.de. With a capacity of up to 13,000 spectators, this multipurpose hall is used for concerts, all kinds of sporting events and various performances.
LBBW Jazz open 13 - 16 July 2006, www.lbbwjazzopen.com Numerous events about and around jazz music.
Friedrichsbau Varieté C-3, Friedrichstr. 24, MFriederichsbau, www.friedrichsbau.de. In contrast to the bigger and somewhat more conservative venues, here you have the possibility watch smaller more unusual and light-hearted performances, usually involving mute acrobatic acts that are perfect for those who don’t speak German. Its central location makes it possible to combine a performance here with a restaurant or bar visit after.
Mercedes Cup, Tennis Tournament Weissenhof, 15 - 23 July 2006 This is an important clay court tennis tournament, taking place at a club with a very long and lively tradition, founded 1894.
Theatre, Opera & Dance
Staatstheater (Opera & Ballet) D-3, Oberer Schloßgarten 6, MSchloßplatz, www.staatstheater. stuttgart.de/oper. Voted numerous times as one of the best opera houses in Germany, Stuttgart’s Opera offers several excellent opera runs per season. The ballet is home to several world-renowned choreographers, mainly coming from the John Cranko school: John Neumeier, Jirí Kylián, William Forsythe, Uwe Scholz. The building itself is an imposing neo-baroque building situated in the Schlossgarten park. theaterhaus.com, www.theaterhaus.com. A renovated factory complex, the Theaterhaus has spaces for performances from intimate to huge. A constantly changing programme of theatre, music, performance and other cultural events all in an interesting building.
Events Exhibition: Monet - Felder im Frühling (Fields in Spring) Staatsgalerie, until 24 September 2006 The Staatsgalerie belongs to one of the architecturally more interesting post-modern buildings in Stuttgart. The excellent house collection is complimented with pieces on loan from other collections.
Stuttgart In Your Pocket
UNESCO World Youth Festival 2 - 10 July 2006, www. fifawm2006.stuttgart.de A city wide festival with numerous even ts a n d sp e cial a c ti vi ti es, in connection with the Football Championship.
ISCM World New Music Festival “Grenzenlos” 14 - 30 July 2006, www. wnmf2006.de Lots o f interesting events, p e r fo r m a n c e s a n d o f c o u r s e concerts concerning new music.
Theaterhaus Siemensstr. 11, MPragsattel, tickets@
SB
50-Year Anniversary 13 June - 23 July 2006, Liederhalle, www.liederhalle-stuttgart.de Th e Li e d erh all e is th e largest downtown concert venue featuring concerts, from classical to pop, by internationally-known performers.
Exhibition: Leuchtende Bauten (Glowing Buildings), Night Architecture Kunstmuseum Stuttgart (The Cube), www.kunstmuseumstuttgart.de; 10 June - 1 October 2006 The Cube has been at the centre of an architectural dispute even before it was built: some hate it and wish to have their old Kleiner Schloßplatz back and some love it.
13th Stuttgart Run 22 - 23 July 2006, www.stuttgarter-zeitung-lauf.de Various events (marathon, hal fmarathon, blading, etc.) for amateurs and professionals alike. Stuttgart Summer Festival (Stuttgarter Sommerfest) Schloßplatz (Palace Square), Eckensee, 10 - 13 August 2006 This elegant open-air festival, featuring many music events, is considered to be one of the most beautiful of its kind in Germany. White pavilions, under streams of countless decorative lights, as well as the aroma of southern European spices and scampi, create a unique Mediterranean flair. Dancing: German Open Championships 15 - 19 August 2006, Liederhalle, www.goc-stuttgart.de A dancing championship and event (standard, latin, boogiewoogie, etc.). The Stuttgart Wine Festival (Stuttgarter Weindorf) Schillerplatz, 30 August - 10 September 2006 Wine lovers and connoisseurs from all over the world, will once again come together at the Schiller Square and around the Old Palace, to indulge in tasting the fruits of summer. In more than 120 decorated vine arbours, over 250 exceptional Württemberg wines are on offer. Exhibition: Württemberg Monarchy 22 September 2006 - 7 February 2007, Landes Museum (Old Castle), www.landesmuseum-stuttgart.de
The Old Castle is an interesting building to visit in itself, the exhibitions always compliment the historical and cultural aspects of the building. European Music Festival: Roads to Mozart 3 - 17 September 2006, Bachakademie, www. bachakademie.de The famed institute for classical music offers regular performances and events. IAAF World Athletics Final 9 - 10 September 2006, Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadium, www.gottlieb-daimler-stadion.de The finals of the IAAF competitions are to take place in Stuttgart from 2006 to 2008.
Stuttgart’s telephone code is (+49)(0)711 June - July 2006
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WORLD CUP FAN FEST
EVENTS It’s Brazil’s Cup to Lose
SB Porsche Tennis Grand Pris 30 September - 8 October 2006, Hans-Martin-Schleyer-Halle / Porsche-Arena, www.porsche-tennis.de Top international women players battle it out to take a nice Porsche home. Stuttgart Beer Festival (Cannstatter Volksfest) Cannstatter Wasen, 23 September - 8 October 2006 There is quite a lot of action under and surrounding the 24m “Fruit Column” - the symbol of the “Cannstatter Volksfest”, originally planned in 1818 as a celebration of thanksgiving. With its innumerable rides and new attractions, it counts as one of the greatest beer festivals in the world. This is the Stuttgart pendant to the Oktoberfest in Munich. German Masters International Equestrian Classics 15 - 19 November 2006, Hanns-Martin-Schleyer-Halle, www.stuttgart-german-masters.de A top German equestrian event with different competitions and many activities around horse jumping. Stuttgart Christmas Market (Stuttgarter Weihnachtsmarkt) Schillerplatz, 30 November - 23 December 2006 Mentioned in a document from 1692, the Stuttgart Christmas Market with over 200 booths standing in Schiller Square, belongs not only to the oldest, but also to the most beautiful and largest of its sort in Europe. Mulled wine, sweets and handicrafts are the specialities on sale.
Cinemaxx football live The two Cinemaxx theatres in Stuttgart will be showing all World Cup matches live on their huge screens - an excellent way to be in the middle of the action, with a more detailled view than even fans with tickets will get! You can sink away in a comfortable chair and be emerged by the sight and sounds of the exciting games, cheering along with everyone in the hall. Admission is free, though a minimum consumption of €3.50 is required. The Cinemaxx theatres can be found in the SI Zentrum and Bosch Areal complexes; for more information visit the theatre or www.cinemaxx.de.
Stuttgart In Your Pocket
The idea that this could be one of the most open and fiercely contested World Cup tournaments in history has been doing the rounds in the press – especially the UK press – ever since England beat Argentina in a rather meaningless friendly match, held in Switzerland at the end of last year. (The match was also memorable for England captain David B e c k h a m’s p r e - ga m e comment that ‘it is a neutral venue for both teams.’) Since then the idea that Fresh from Champions the tournament is ‘open’, League success with in fact code for ‘England Barcelona, Ronaldinho have a chance’, has been increasingly winning friends will be looking for another World Cup triumph with and influencing people. To p u t a n y E n g l a n d Brazil.” © Mediafax Foto supporters reading this out of their self-induced hubris: England have absolutely no chance whatsoever of winning the World Cup; with or without Wayne Rooney. Indeed, the now legendary Rooney metatarsal injury has given the English press a ready excuse when England do indeed crash out of the tournament. It should not, however, hide the enormous failings that England currently suffer from. They still lack a proper goalkeeper, they have little depth up front, no genuine left-sided wide man, and in Steven Gerrard, Frank Lampard and David Beckham too many square pegs in round holes. England lack balance. Other nations in this tournament do not, and Brazil is one of them. Though the wealth of talent they have does – as it has to – mask their own failings, there is no question of their coach Carlos Alberto Parreira using all six of his best attacking players at the same time. Indeed. His decision to name his first XI as long ago as April was classic one-upmanship: the rest of the pack now knows exactly what it has to beat. England as we have discussed, are not qualified to do so. With their original tactic of ‘keep it tight at the back and hope Wayne knocks one in from 30 yards’ now out of the window. They have woken up to discover there is no plan B. Expect then, a variation on plan A: ‘keep it tight at the back and hope Frankie/Stevie/Becks knocks one in from 30 yards.’ Hardly the stuff of legend. Is any other nation prepared to meet Brazil’s challenge? Of the traditional ‘big guns’ Argentina looks frail and lacking in cohesion, Italy – amid scandal at home – look less capable even than England of putting together a decent run in the tournament, the host nation Germany currently possesses the worst team in their memory, Spain – crippled by the bizarre selection policy of its coach – will underachieve once more, and France are an ageing, wilting team hardly set for one last glorious hurrah. Only Holland, conspicuously absent from all talk of potential winners, look capable of mounting a decent challenge to Brazil. And even that will depend on their mood. Indeed, the In Your Pocket prediction is that Brazil’s likeliest challengers will be an outsider. We – for no reason more scientific than a hunch – think the Ukraine will do well. We also like the look of the United States, and if they can find the net often enough Portugal will do well. Yet none of these three will beat an on-form Brazil. And Brazil are the best team in Germany. Not since Italy surprised even themselves to take the trophy in 1982 has the best team in the World Cup gone home empty handed. The cup then is Brazil’s to lose. We doubt very much that they will do so. But as we said four years ago (while we were heavily tipping France) in a cup competition, anything can happen…
Under the motto “A time to make friends” the capital of BadenWürttemberg has put together an excellent programme of cultural and entertainment events accompanying the FIFA World Championship games. Fifty-five thousand spectators will enjoy the games live directly in the Gottlieb-Daimler Stadium, the fourth largest World Championship stadium in Germany, along with countless other fans in Stuttgart following the games in pubs, bars and open-air events. While play is in progress in the stadiums during the World Cup, people will also be celebrating in the centre of Stuttgart. For four weeks the great festival of nations will guarantee a tremendous atmosphere, lots of fun and all you need for a riproaring football party. And even the fans who have no ticket for the matches in the stadiums won’t miss a single minute of the excitement. Stadium atmosphere is guaranteed at the Schlossplatz (Palace Square) in the heart of the city, where all 64 matches will be relayed live on four large screens around the Jubiläumssäule (Jubilee Column).
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with the Stuttgart Philharmonic orchestra. On 30 June, there is a premiere at the Stuttgart Ballet, by Goecke, Lee and Spradling, called “New Pieces”. On 2 July, the State Opera Stuttgart celebrates the premiere of “Aeneas in Karthago”. For the future, as the “European City of Sport 2007”, Stuttgart will also host the Handball World Championships, Gymnastics World Championships and Cycling World Championships as well as the World Athletics Final.
To correspond with the 2006 FIFA WorldCup match schedule and with the countries whose teams are playing in Stuttgart, there will be a daily international football party with stage shows, where the World Cup slogan can be experienced firsthand. Representatives from the 173 nationalities which make up Stuttgart’s population and stars and starlets from the local and international culture scene will take part. Stuttgart’s city centre will resonate daily from 11:00 until 01:00 with the all-round football party programme. Bad Canstatt also offers the possibility for all fans to enjoy public viewing. Canstatter Marktplatz (Market Place) will offer space for up to 3000 spectators to enjoy selected games on a 12m2 video wall. All games from Stuttgart, all games with the German national team and the entire final round will be televised. All games on a particular day will be shown – if there are two games in parallel, then the more relevant game (from Germany’s point of view) will be shown. The UNESCO World Youth Festival will offer youngsters from all over the world to take part in the World Championships, as well as other related events. From 9 June until 9 July, the Fan Arena will be set up on the market place. Interactive features and the popular “S-City fit and fun” will offer entertainment for the whole family, and a way to keep fit during the Championships. Other events taking place at the same time include: The annual wine event, the Weindorf, will be extended to take place over the entire length of the Championships. Between the Schillerplatz and the Stiftskirche (Collegiate Church), numerous stands and open-air restaurants will offer local wines, culinary specialities and a fabulous. With the motto “Haute Cuisine meets High Tech”, the best gourmets from Baden-Württemberg are presented on the Karlsplatz from 9 June to 9 July. The museums in Stuttgart are also planning several events to run in parallel to the World Championships. At the Staarsgalerie, “Claude-Monet – Fields in Spring” will be shown. The newly opened Kunstmuseum Stuttgart (the Cube) will show “Leuchtende Bauten: Architektur der Nacht” (Glowing Buildings: Architecture of the Night). In the Kunstgebäude, the Great State Exhibition “Kunst lebt! Die Welt mit anderen Augen sehen” (Art alive! See the world with different eyes) will feature works brought together from other institutes for this special event. On 20 May, the new Mercedes-Benz World will open directly next to the Gottlieb-Daimler Stadium with 17 000 m2 over nine floors of exhibits, all focusing on the history of the legendary car-maker from Stuttgart. From 13 June to 23 July, there is the opening of the Jubilee Celebrations at the Liederhalle Culture and Congress Centre
WW
World Cup Language Guide Tourist industry workers in Germany generally speak English well, but thanks to the annoying habit of dubbing everything foreign on television and in cinemas into German, the average local is not exposed to English very much. That’s why we’ve composed a little list of terms that may be of use during your trip. One/two/three/four/five beer, please. No thanks, I’ll have a Bit beer instead. So, who do you think will win? Where is the toilet? Where is the stadium? Where is the train station? That was offside. The referee is biased. He should have scored there. He’s hit the post/ crossbar! Take off (player name)! Bring on (player name) Penalty! Goal!
Ein/zwei/drei/vier/fünf Bier, bitte. Nein Danke, ich hätte lieber ein Bit. Was glaubst du, wer gewinnen wird? Wo ist die Toilette? Wo ist das Stadion? Wo ist der Bahnhof? Das war Abseits. Der Schiedsrichter ist parteiisch. Das Tor hätte er schiessen müssen. Er hat den Pfosten / die Latte getroffen (player name) abziehen! (player name) einwechseln! Elfmeter! Toooooooooooooor!
June - July 2006
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STUTTGART’S SPA CULTURE
© Stuttgart-Marketing GmbH A little known fact about the industrial centre, Stuttgart has the second highest amount of natural mineral spring water in Europe after Budapest. This natural spring water bubbles out of the ground in the city’s largest and oldest district of Bad Cannstatt, and in the adjacent quarter Berg, fed by an underground river running below the city. Nineteen individual springs produce more than 22 million litres of healthy mineral water daily, containing dissolved mineral salts and other valuable substances. You can see the pressure release valves at the westernmost edge of the Schloßgarten near the Mineral Bäder station. These conical structures allow the spring water to spout out if it’s not needed for the baths. The city of Stuttgart benefits from this enormous natural resource. There are three indoor mineral spas, two outdoor mineral water pools, as well as three cure centres and 20 public mineral water fountains. One, at the banks of the Neckar near the station Mühlsteg, offers constantly flowing water, that you can bottle and take with you. Twelve of the mineral water sources are state-recognized medicinal springs, one namely, the “Stuttgart Cure”. In cooperation wi th doctors and h eal th insurance organisations, an ambulatory therapy programme offers full treatment for a number of ailments for people in their homes and places of work. It is based on the curative effect of the mineral water and is supplemented by a wide range of additional therapies, chosen according to the latest medical findings. According to legend, “spa” comes from the Latin acronym, “Sante per Aqua”, meaning “health through water”. Two thousand years ago, the Romans became progressively aware of the mineral springs’ curative effect and established a fortress, upon which the foundation for the former spa of Cannstatt was built. This spa came to be a meeting place for aristocrats, the place to flaunt wealth and indulge in elegance. This spa tradition has continued (although on a bit more humble scale), at two municipal health spas, Leuze and Bad Cannstatt, and at the mineral bath Berg, which has been familyowned for over one hundred years. The public spa in Bad Cannstatt has integrated a new cure and treatment centre, and both facilities are part of the Pannonia Hotel complex. A state-of-the-art health facility with a distinctive spa character and versatile, modern services are available directly in the city. Among other things,
Stuttgart In Your Pocket
WINE, VINEYARDS AND WINE FESTIVALS
one can take advantage of whirlpools, Kneipp basins, fitness room, solarium, steam bath, and various sauna opportunities. The swimming area, with its multi-purpose swimming pools, warm, cold and hot water basins, is supplied from three state-recognized medicinal springs and a recently discovered thermal salt water spring. The mineral springs, are seen as fountains of wellness, constantly bubbling, and presiding as the most important assets for health awareness and prevention in Stuttgart. This bath and spa culture is something not be missed in Stuttgart, because sweating in the sauna is a favourite way for locals to relax or treat themselves to some of that wellness that Germans like so much. Baths and spas have sprung up all around Stuttgart, even in areas where there is no mineral spring water. The SI-Centre for example also offers a very posh spa, although without natural spring water, with all sorts of treatments influenced by every bathing technique, from Japanese to Turkish. Note that spas and baths have swimming areas, where bathing suits are worn, but also have wellness areas, where men and women go naked. Germany is the home of FKK culture (Freikörperkultur, or naked recreation) and the traditional Anglo-Saxon embarrassment about the own body is viewed with some curiosity. Once you get over the fact that nobody’s body resembles anything you see in the ads on TV, it’s easier to relax – so strip and have fun. In Your Pocket takes no responsibility for wrinkly fingers.
Talking about grapes in Stuttgar t is an exercise in superlatives. Stuttgart is the largest wine producing community in Germany and, consequently, a lot of activity focuses on its production... and consumption. Most Stuttgart restaurants serving German or local Swabian food also offer a good selection of wines and most bars and clubs will have at least some local wines. Historically, winemaking had its first large-scale success here, when, in the third century, Roman emperors had vineyards built in the entire area. In the 16th century, the region Stuttgart was the largest wine producer in the Holy Roman Empire of the German nation. Today, reds are produced mainly from the grapes of Trollinger, Spätburgunder and the exquisite Lemberger, and whites from Riesling, Kerner, Silvaner and Müller Thurgau. These plants are especially suited to the region and yield wines typical for the area: light to mid-heavy, dry to semi-sweet. And there are several producers of excellent sparkling wines, known as Sekt.
Spas Bad Berg Pragstr. 9, MWilhelma, tel. 954 68 20, www. badberg.de. The traditional and original of Stuttgart’s mineral baths remains a bastion of the older generation – although many people choose this one due to its relative unfriendliness to children. Outdoor and indoor pools are fed with the curing 21°C water, there’s lots of lounging space on the grass outside plus a sauna, food, drinks, chess, etc. Delightful. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission €6.30/5.20.
Spa Leuze Am Leuzebad 2-6, MMinerälbader, tel. 216 42 10, www.stuttgart.de/baeder. The modern version of mineral bath, this has a Centre Parcs look and feel, with graded heat in various pools, a Kinderland for the kids and is a better bet for winter bathing as its indoor section is much bigger. Plus sauna, table football, a riverside location and slide into the pool. Great for all the family. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00. Admission €8.60/6.40.
© Stuttgart-Marketing GmbH
The best way to get to know the winemaking tradition is a visit to the wine festivals, celebrated annually in Stuttgart but also outside in the smaller villages where wine is produced. These usually start in the summer and continue through the harvest until late autumn. Normally at the end of August, the “Stuttgarter Weindorf” (Stuttgart Wine Village) is the biggest wine festival in Germany and a favourite meeting point for amateur and professional tasters alike. In excess of 350 locals wines are offered, normally drunk in 250ml glasses, known as “Viertele” (quarters). Another good way to let the winemaking atmosphere seep in is a visit to the Württemberg, a hill to the south east near the quarters Untertürkheim and Obertürkheim. Here you can stroll freely through the vineyards, enjoy the spectacular view over the Neckar valley. Don’t miss a visit to the Weinmuseum (Wine Museum) in Uhlbach near Obertürkheim, where you can get information about 2000 years of winemaking history, techniques and technologies as well as particular information about the local winemaking tradition. A special tradition is the Besenwirtschaften (literally, “broom inns”). Wine-makers of fer their own produce as well as local specialities: ver y delicious and ver y inexpensi ve. As a signal to visitors that they are open, they put a broom in front of the door. The variety of food is usually quite limited, but the focus h e r e i s m o r e t h e e n t e r t a i n m e n t a s p e c t: story-telling, singing, stand-up and of course drinkin g are par t o f th e programm e. This is a great way to get in touch with locals, however it can get quite crowded and it’s not normally possible to reser ve ahead. Since
Besenwirtschaften are open only for limited times, get further information either at the tourist information of fice or the Weinmuseum. There is a tour, Weinbaurundfahrt “Weinkundiges Stuttgart“, organised by the Stuttgart Tourist Information (www. stuttgart-tourist.de, ). This is a great way to see the vineyards, learn all about winemaking in the region, have a typical Swabian meal in a quaint little inn and then try six local wines. Unfortunately, until now this tour has only been offered in German – bring a translator along, ask the tour guide frequently to explain again in English or just forget about listening and concentrate on getting sloshed.
All photos © Stuttgart-Marketing GmbH
June - July 2006
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WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel categories are based on the most expensive double room rate. Prices are rack rates, and are expected to go through the roof during the World Cup.
Symbol key P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
Over €200
O Casino
H Conference facilities
Hotel Am Schloßgar ten D-2, Schillerstr. 23,
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
MHauptbahnhof, tel. 202 60, fax 202 68 88, info@ hotelschlossgarten.com, www.hotelschlossgarten.com. Elegant, classically decorated hotel with a modern feel in the heart of Stuttgart’s famous garden. Categories are decided by view and all rooms are luxurious, spacious and with all the mod cons (plus fluffy robes) you’d expect from an Althoff Hotel. Gourmet restaurant, a wine bar and café are as five star as the rooms and services. Q126 rooms (57 singles N204 - 292, 49 doubles N345 - 376, 10 suites N324 - 634). ABGHKLPRTUW hhhhh
Le Meridien E-2, Willy-Brandt-Str. 30, MStaatsgalerie, tel. 22 21 20 05, fax 22 21 20 69, www.lemeridien. com. A world-class hotel with many rooms overlooking the Schloßgarten. Standard rooms are luxurious with flat screen TV, king size beds, LAN, minibar, safe, iron and fluffy robes. The next level is executive with the same room but added bonuses. Suites are large, some with a swivelling flatscreen dividing the room. Bathrooms are granite, the top suites have jacuzzi, three TVs, 2 bathrooms and enclosed balconies. Great spa, pool, bar and restaurant and impeccable service. Q281 rooms (256 doubles N135 - 415, 25 suites N285 475). ACDFGHKLPRTUW hhhhh
Steigenberger Graf Zeppelin D-2, Arnulf-Klett-Platz
7, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 204 82 77, fax 204 85 42,
[email protected], www.stuttgart.steigenberger.de. This building named in honour of the Schwabian aeronautical pioneer has housed a hotel since before WWII and today its five-star elegance is a mix of traditional and modern flair. Rooms are sumptuous with all mod cons plus some extras (stereo, fax) and you can choose between classic or avant garde décor. Three restaurants (1 Michelin star), two bars plus sublime service and comfort. Q189 rooms (78 singles N261 - 316, 96 doubles N317 - 357, 14 junior suite, 1 presidential suite) Breakfast €21. ABCDFGH KLPRTUW hhhhh
€75-150
R Internet W Wi-Fi
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant
M Nearest metro station
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
€150-200 Der Zauberlehrling D-4, Rosenstr. 38, MCharlottenplatz, tel. 237 77 70, fax 237 77 75, kontakt@ zauberlehrling.de, www.zauberlehrling.de. The original nine-roomed designer hotel with individual themes from Titanic to the British Empire, Japanese to Mediterranean are all minimalist in décor but sumptuous in luxury and bathtubs. Some have balconies, others a love seat or whirlpool. Each is unique and this is how guests feel too. Six new rooms have been added in an adjacent building. Q15 rooms (15 doubles N110 - 280). ABGKLPR hhhh
Holiday Inn Mittlerer Pfad 25-27, MWeilimdorf, tel. 98 88 80, fax 98 88 89, hotel@holidayinn-stuttgart. de, www.holidayinn-stuttgart.de. As is typical for a large chain hotel, here you’ll find excellent and extensive facilities, efficient service, several restaurants, comfortable rooms - all as perfectly standardised as a Big Mac, what’s missing is a bit of character. The location is a bit out of town, with a halfhour train commute into town. also 1bed room reservations Q321 rooms (singles N105 - 150, 321 doubles N150 - 270). ADFGHKLPTUW hhhh
Maritim Hotel Stuttgart B-3, Seidenstr. 34, MBerlinerplatz, tel. 94 20, fax 942 10 00,
[email protected], www.maritim.de. The hotel has it all - services and facilities to no end, the top suites are luxury pure (multiple bedrooms and flat screens and a fireplace), the equipment is superb and the army of portieres and attendees won’t allow you to strain a muscle. The location is fabulous, too: five steps from the Bosch Areal means you won’t need to take advantage of the excellent restaurants and bars inside the hotel. Q250 rooms (singles N173 - 368, doubles N173 - 368, 3 suites N398 - 423). ACDFGHKLPUW hhhh Wörst D-4, Hohenheimerstr. 28-30, MDobelstraße, tel. 236 70 00, fax 236 70 07,
[email protected], www. zur-weinsteige.de. Part family home converted into a hotel, part new four star wing. The original carved wood ceilings, doors and furniture remain, the wine cellar is huge (rooms are named after wines), there’s a well-rated gourmet restaurant, a parrot, aquariums and chameleons in residence plus a terrace beckons for the summer. Rooms are well appointed and the new wing even has a Louis XXIV suite. Overall, slightly over the top in places but very welcoming. Q33 rooms (13 singles N90 - 120, 13 doubles N95 - 160, 7 suites N120 350). ABKLPW
Stuttgart’s telephone code is (+49)(0)711 SB
Stuttgart In Your Pocket
Best Western Hotel Stuttgart 21 D-1, Friedhofstr.
restaurant has good local specialities. However, the highlight here is the location - try to get a room with a view of Feuersee lake. Q38 rooms (29 singles N70 - 90, 5 doubles N90 - 130, 3 triples N120 - 160). AGKR hhh
21, MTürlenstrasse, tel. 258 70, fax 258 74 04, info@ stuttgart21.bestwestern.de, www.stuttgart21.bestwestern.de. Although past the cemetery and opposite a car showroom, the hotel is still very central. King size beds are available in standard BW rooms that have tea and coffee facilities, and minibar. A ‘superbly’ 1980’s decorated split level suite has two balconies, jacuzzi and fireplace. With an indoor pool and sauna, plus a lovely terrace from the restaurant that serves dinner as well, this is a good option. Q90 rooms (50 singles N58 - 125, 38 doubles N75 - 136, 2 suites N140 290). ACFGKL6UW hhhh
Hotel am Wilhelmsplatz C-4, Wilhelmsplatz 9, MÖsterreicher Platz, tel. 21 02 40, fax 210 24 99,
[email protected], www.hotelamwilhelmsplatz.de. For a centrally located hotel, with decently decorated rooms and comfortable surroundings, this is surprisingly reasonable and offers good and friendly service on top. The bar in the cellar has a simple pub atmosphere, but for a beer before heading in, it’s perfect. Q2 rooms (15 singles N61 - 65, 11 doubles N78 - 85). ALPR hhh
Brita Augsburger Str. 671-673, MObertürkheim, tel. 32
IB-Gästehaus Cottastr. 14, MMarienplatz, tel. 64
02 30, fax 32 02 34 00,
[email protected], www.britahotel.de. Yet another pleasant family-run hotel a bit outside the city where the rooms are simple but welcoming. A total of three restaurants offer a variety from simple snacks to gourmet meals, all at extremely reasonable prices. Q70 rooms (singles N70 - 96, doubles N90 - 130). AGHK hhh
95 20, fax 64 95 99,
[email protected], www.internationaler-bund.de. This is something between a hostel and real hotel. The location is not directly downtown but still central and quiet. The rooms are pleasant, but obviously not luxurious. Q (7 singles N56, 19 doubles N78, 5 triples N89). hh
Hansa-Hotel B-3, Silberburg-
str. 114-116, MSchloss/ Johanesstraße, tel. 62 50 83, fax 61 73 49, inf o@ hansa-stuttgart.de, www. hansa-stuttgart.de. Excellent value for money, the rooms are elegant and spacious, and the atmosphere is surprisingly luxurious. The restaurant is a well-kept secret: Italian food that impresses Italians. The bar has a long tradition of catering to fans of football games, and for those who want to escape there’s bike rental. Q78 rooms (20 singles N59 - 79, 54 doubles N75 - 119, 4 triples N91 - 125). AGHKLW hhh
Höhenhotel Seybold Neue Weinsteige 114, tel. 649 20 21, fax 649 20 23,
[email protected], www.hotel-seybold.de. Join past guests José Carreras and Michael Schumacher and stay in this villa perched on the hillside. Front facing rooms have spectacular views up the valley and all rooms have TV and minibar, while apartments also have a kitchen. It’s a converted home, so rooms are simple but clean, comfortable and airy. Taxis recommended. Q18 rooms (11 singles N40 - 80, 7 doubles N65 110). AGL6
Hotel am Feuersee B-4,
Johannesstr. 2, MFeuersee, tel. 61 95 40, fax 61 95 41 60, hotel-am-feuersee@ t-online.de, www.hotel-amfeuersee.de. The rooms are bright, clean and efficient and the dining facilities better than average in the class. The hotel
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