Odesa In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Odesa 2013

Inside

Updated, comprehensive and the best city guide to the Pearl of the Black Sea

N°10 www.inyourpocket.com

9 772076 229104

In cooperation with Odesa Tourism Association

Contents Nightlife

3 27

Bars, pubs and clubs

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents 4

Introduction to Odesa 5

Arriving, car rentals, public transport

35

Lifestyle directory

36

Shopping

38

Where to go shopping in Odesa 8

Customs, money, visas and more

Business directory

39

Banks, accountants and lawyers 12

Events schedule

Where to stay

Cosmopolitan Odesa

Useful directory for staying in Odesa

Arrival & Transport

Culture

29

Essential Odesa Museums

Bridging past and future

Foreword

The Basics

What to see

14

Maps & Index Street register/Index City centre map

41 42

Black Sea Jewel Hotels

Restaurants & Cafés Odesa dining scene

20

On your smart phone go to

m.inyourpocket.com Chornomorskoho Kozatstva 92 +38 050 333 80 80 +38 048 706 10 10 [email protected] www.private-elling.com

HOTEL│BEACH CLUB│RESTAURANT│SPA

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2013

4

Arriving & TRANSPORT

Foreword Odesa is Ukraine’s most charming city. Anyone who argues otherwise has never been to Odesa, has never strolled its captivating streets nor broken bread with its jovial citizens. As a tribute to its appeal, eight cities in the US, two in Canada and one in Brazil were named Odessa. There’s also Lake Odessa and even Odessa the planet somewhere out there in the cosmos. However, none of these tributes shine as vibrantly as Odesa, Ukraine: The Pearl of the Black Sea. Throughout its history Odesa has lured travellers, artists, poets, entrepreneurs and radical dissidents. The city was founded in 1794 by Catherine the Great, who realised that a port on the Black Sea was essential for the expansion of the Russian Empire. It was not erected on empty ground, however. Archaeological findings have revealed the existence of an ancient Greek settlement. The Kyivan Rus, the Golden Horde, Lithuanians, Ottomans, Tatars and Poles also made use of Odesa’s ideal location. The area ultimately fell into Russian hands during the Russo-Turkish War (1787-1791), and was later annexed under the Treaty of Jassy in 1792. Unlike many of its contemporary Russian cities, the construction of Odesa was well planned. Duc de Richelieu, a French dissident who served in the Russian Army and later became one of the city’s first governors, is credited as the city’s visionary designer. The city boomed throughout the 19th century, and attracted an incredibly diverse population. By the beginning of the 20th century, Odesa had become the third most important city in the Russian Empire behind St. Petersburg and Moscow. It continued to thrive during Soviet industrial expansion, and by the mid 1950’s had become one of the world’s richest grain harbours. Although Odesa has been a sun, surf and relaxation destination for as long as anyone can remember, the city has really caught the buzz as of late. New restaurants, bars, clubs, hotels and resorts keep popping up to meet the demand of enthused tourists and adventurers drawn by this fascinating cultural centre nestled right up next to the beach. We are proud to offer this guide designed to highlight the very best Odesa has to offer. You may view additional content and leave comments at www.inyourpocket.com.

By bus

Publisher Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, 25, Kyiv 04080, Ukraine tel. (+380) 44 467 78 20 / (+380) 67 977 44 16 [email protected] Registration No. KB 14927 - 3899P Printed by Aiva Plus, Kyiv Published once per year, 10,000 copies

Editorial Editors & Writers Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova Research Marina Marchenko Layout & Design Natasha Martisova, KIS Ltd. Photos Kyiv In Your Pocket Cover photo flickr.com, CCL.

Sales & Circulation General Manager Andrii Cherniavskyi Sales & Circulation Kyiv: Natasha Martisova, +380 67 977 44 16 Lviv: Julia Kaniuka, +380 67 672 44 97 Odesa: Liubov Rogatinska, +380 95 683 82 57

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS Ltd 20032013. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Maps © DNVP “Kartographiya”, 2013 © Kyiv In Your Pocket, 2013

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The Central Bus Station is located at Kolontayivskoi vul. 58. The station is currently undergoing repairs scheduled to be completed…well, no one knows for sure, but not soon. Despite the mess, it continues to function and the bus you need will most likely arrive to or depart from the central station. Bus schedules, ticketing booths (каса) and an information bureau are available. All information is in Russian only, but don’t be afraid to express yourself in English. Odesians, especially those who speak English, enjoy coming to the aid of disoriented travellers. For information on existing routes and routing status visit the bus system’s website www.bus.com.ua (in Russian only). You can also order tickets to routes designated with a red tick. If you choose to order online, don’t forget to specify desired destination.

By car When entering the country by car, foreigners are required to sign a document at the border swearing that they will bring the car out of the country before a certain date. Foreign cars are allowed on Ukrainian soil for a maximum of two months. This document should be carried along with your driver’s license and your car’s registration papers at all times. Automobile insurance is obligatory in Ukraine. It may be possible to buy green card insurance valid for Ukraine in your home country to avoid problems - if not you must purchase it from the Ukrainian company at the border. The latter might cost less than the former, however if you don’t speak Ukrainian or Russian it is easy to get deceived by border officials and buy something which is totally useless. The minimum term of insurance is two weeks, with prices depending on the size of the engine.

By plane Odesa International Airport is located approximately 10 km from centre. For domestic arrivals, the shuttle bus picks you up from the plane and dumps you by a steel gate next to the main terminal where a gauntlet of underhanded taxi drivers awaits. For international arrivals and departures and domestic departures proceed to the main terminal. There are two currency exchange booths, an ATM, airline representatives, a café and an information booth (deserted both times we were there) in the terminal’s main hall. Toilets are located in the basement. Customs staff and many of the taxi drivers speak English. A taxi to centre is unreasonably expensive; even experienced hagglers can expect to pay a minimum of 100Hr. Car rental might be a better option and is available in the main hall. Your cheapest option is bus or minibus. Fares to centre are less than 2Hr. As you exit the main terminal, look to the right. The bus stop is across the parking lot. Two buses and a couple of minibuses depart at regular intervals. Bus 129 goes to the rail station, and 101 stops at Hrets’ka pl. Minibus 113 heads to Paustovs’koho and 117 to Pastera. Also to the right, as you exit the main terminal is a VIP lounge. The airport is small and unassuming, but if you happen to get confused or lost don’t hesitate to ask airport staff or one of the locals for assistance. Odesians have a tradition of service and are more open and jolly than citizens of other major ex-Soviet cities.

By train Odesa’s rail station is the end of the line. Fortunately for you, you’re already in centre. A taxi to any centre location shouldn’t cost more than 20Hr, but as you are a foreigner you face an uphill battle getting a just fare. If you walk a short distance from the train station (a prime location valued higher by cabbies) and flag down a car you’re sure to get better treatment. Minibuses, buses and trams headed to centre and other points depart from the train station and adjacent bazaar. Keep in mind that you’re just a short walk from numerous hotels, restaurants, shops and cafés.

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A word from the mayor Dear Reader, I am delighted to invite you to visit Odesa – the city of unlimited impressions. Our city and its region will furnish you with an unforgettable holiday, whatever your interests, at any time of year. After all, it has been a major destination for travellers for over 200 years and it has always looked after its guests with exceptional hospitality. Odesa is justly renowned for its rich and varied culture, charming boulevards, delightful architecture and superb cuisine. Add to these the sunny beaches, world-class theatres and galleries, al fresco cafes, lively night clubs, impressive museums, outstanding nature reserves, restorative health spas … well indeed there is really something for everyone. You can never be a stranger in Odesa. Our citizens are drawn from a multitude of nations and we are proud of our city and its cosmopolitan way of life. We would like to share with you the unique atmosphere of Odessa and want you to become a part of our community, however briefly. So come and visit us soon – you will be accorded a warm welcome in our special, exciting, wonderful and forever youthful city! Sincerely, Mayor of Odesa Aleksey Kostusev

Help make Odesa better! Leave your comments (good or bad) at

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Tourist Information Odesa Tourist Information Centre

G-2,Pushkinska 2 (entrance from Lanzheronivska), tel. (+380) 48 709 46 91/ (+380) 48 725 07 07/(+380) 48 725 24 24, www. odessatourism.org. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Tourist Info Centre B-4,Italiys’kyi bulv. 11, tel. (+380) 48 731 48 08, www.go2odessa.ru. This office was the first and one of only a handful entire Odesa. Staff can book anything - hotels, all kinds of tickets and city tours. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

Free Tours Odessa & Tourist Information Center F-2, Havanna 10, City Garden, tel. (+380) 48) 794-65-89, (+380) 94 95 095 89. QOpen

10:00 - 19:00.

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ARRIVING & TRANSPORT

ARRIVING & TRANSPORT

Airline tickets

Taxi

AirBaltic Odesa International Airport, 2nd floor, tel.

In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm out on any street if you don’t believe us. Metered taxis don’t exist, so you’ll have to haggle over the price with your driver. Foreigners are fighting an uphill battle in getting a fair price, but be sure to settle on the amount before getting in to avoid giving the impression of having bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by phone can help you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed. Champion tel. (+380) 48 720 00 00. Formula-1 tel. (+380) 48 717 17 17. Forsage tel. (+380) 482 33 32 22. Pantera Express tel. (+380) 482 34 20 00/(+380) 48 777 30 00/50 00.

(+380) 482 39 30 25, www.airbaltic.com.

Austrian Airlines Odesa International Airport, 2nd

floor, tel. (+380) 482 49 00 78, www.austrian.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Czech Airlines Odesa International Airport, 2nd floor,

tel. (+380) 48 784 05 93, www.czechairlines.com.

QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Kiy Avia E-2, Preobrazhenska 15, tel. (+380) 48 725 Odesa Train Station

Driving in Odesa T h e c on di ti on of most roads in Ukraine is basically wretched, especially after the winter thaw. Another problem is the decrepit traffic lights. They are not all that bright, and sometimes it is difficul t to tell which light is actually lit and which just has the sun shining on it to make it appear lit. Road markings, especially the all-important centre line, often go missing. In this case you should do what the locals do and decide for yourself where the line is. Just make sure that other drivers understand your intentions. No right turn on a red light, unless you have a special green arrow next to the red light. Fines for moving violations have recently been increased. The hope is that this action will lead to a decrease in some of the idiotic behaviours that have led Ukraine to having one of the world’s worst road safety ratings. Drivers can now expect to pay from 51Hr for minor violations to as much as 3400Hr for major violations such as drunk driving (Ukraine has a zero-tolerance alcohol policy when it comes to being behind the wheel). New seat belt and helmet laws will be enforced. Fines for pedestrian violations have also increased. The days of being able to bribe your way out of punishment are coming to an end, maybe. Traffic patrol will soon be required to use video and photo surveillance for all traffic stops. With a mix of narrow streets and reckless Michael Schumacher wannabes, driving in Odesa can be a hairraising experience. The fact that the city is laid out on a grid makes finding your way around relatively simple. Parking in centre can be difficult, but with a little patience and a good eye you’re likely to find a free spot. The area around Deribasivs’ka and Hrets’ka pl. works like Chinese finger-cuffs - easy to get in but tricky to get out - and is best avoided. As you enter and exit the city, watch out for the numerous speed traps! According to Ukrainian law, foreign drivers must carry an international driving licence in addition to the licence from their home country. International licences can be acquired in your country of origin. Foreign vehicles can stay in Ukraine for no more than two months. Extensions can be obtained via registration with the National Auto Inspector (ДАІ).

Odesa In Your Pocket

10 30, www.kiyavia.com/en/. Also at Odesa International Airport. QOpen 8:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

LOT Polish Airlines Odessa International Airport, 1st floor, tel. (+380) 48 749 55 80, www.lot.com. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Turkish Airlines G-3, Pushkins‘ka 17/19, tel. (+380)

482 34 79 06/(+380) 482 34 79 07, fax (+380) 482 34 79 04, www.thy.com. Also at Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 482 49 00 90. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ukraine International Airlines Odessa International Airport, 2nd floor, tel. (+380) 48 237 57 15, www.flyuia. com. QOpen 06:00 - 17:00.

Airports Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 482 39

35 49, www.airport.od.ua. Odesa International Airport is located approximately 10 km from centre. For domestic arrivals, the shuttle bus picks you up from the plane and dumps you by a steel gate next to the main terminal where a gauntlet of underhanded taxi drivers awaits. For international arrivals and departures and domestic departures proceed to the main terminal. There are two currency exchange booths, an ATM, airline representatives, a café and an information booth (deserted both times we were there) in the terminal‘s main hall. Toilets are located in the basement. Customs staff and many of the taxi drivers speak English. The airport is small and unassuming, but if you happen to get confused or lost don‘t hesitate to ask airport staff or one of the locals for assistance. Odesians have a tradition of service and are more open and jolly than citizens of other major ex-Soviet cities.

Car rental AVIS H-4, Uspens‘ka 4A, office 12, tel. (+380) 48 722 64

13/(+380) 67 218 21 41, [email protected], www. avis.com.ua/en. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

Europcar F-5, Rishelievs‘ka 59, Chorne More Hotel, tel. (+380) 48 777 40 11, www.europcar.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Public transport

Buying train tickets For the full Ukrainian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of ticket offices (kasy) at the Central (or Southern) terminal of the Kyiv train station. The staff does not speak English, so try to practice you Ukrainian/Russian. It is a good idea to get know the train number in advance and write in on a piece of paper, together with the departure date and time. Don’t bother to learn the Ukrainian alphabet, write down the destination city name in English as well as your name. You might be asked to provide a passport when boarding. Aside from the train station, you can buy your tickets at the Central Ticket Office on Tarasa Shevchenka bulv., which accepts credit cards. Thanks to EURO2012 we finally have English signs almost everywhere. Visit booking.uz.gov.ua/en/ for train schedule and ticket booking. Odesa Holovna Train Station F-6, Pryvokzal‘na pl. 2, tel. (+380) 48 725 14 18. Odesa‘s rail station is the end of the line. Fortunately for you, you‘re already in centre. As you proceed to the main hall you‘ll find the departure and arrival schedules. In the halls to the right you‘ll find ticketing windows, a service centre and a bank with currency exchange and ATM. There‘s a waiting room with comfortable, plush seating in the service centre. The entrance fee is 5Hr and additional charges vary depending on what you want to do. If you would like to use your mobile phone, for example, the charge is an additional 1.25Hr. An international information desk is also located in the service centre. To the left of the main hall you‘ll find waiting rooms, a café, toilets, a news stand, a currency exchange and an apartment rental service. Upstairs is another waiting room, telephones and a post office. The first aid station, police office, station administration and a secured luggage locker are all located on platform No. 1. If you need to stash your bags for a while the price for this service per day is 8Hr for small bags, 15 for large and 30 for extra large. Directions are clearly marked in English in the main hall, so if at any time you get lost proceed to the main hall for reorientation.

departure date

Hertz G-1, Prymors‘ka 6, tel. (+380) 48 729 33 58, [email protected], www.hertz.ua/en. Q Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

number of the train

Sixt Staroportofrankivs‘ka 55, tel. (+380) 48 715 57 04, www.sixt.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. VRC G-3, Bunina 16B, tel. (+380) 48 734 57 77, www. vrc.com.ua. Also at Odesa International Airport. QOpen

seat/berth number

09:00 - 18:00.

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departure time

Trams, Trolleybuses and Buses

These are favoured by schoolchildren, the working class and babushkas and dedushkas. They won’t get you anywhere in a hurry, but they do provide an intriguing look into everyday Ukrainian life. Tickets cost 1.50Hr and can be purchased from the conductor. All tickets are good for one journey. Monthly travel passes are only available at final stops. Odesa’s tram system operates 19 routes making it one of the largest in Ukraine. However, if you need to reach centre, tram routes are nonexistent from Preobrazhens’ka vul. to the shore so you’ll need to hop on a bus, trolleybus or minibus. The tram’s main function is to connect the edge of centre with outlaying districts. Eleven trolleybus routes and 90 bus routes fill in the gaps allowing passengers to reach just about any locale in the city.

Microbuses and minivans

All forms of transit make scheduled stops except for microbuses and minivans. These privately-owned marshrutkas (маршрутки) or route taxis can stop anywhere along their specified route. Just flag it down as you would a taxi, then tell the driver “na zupyntsi, budlaska” (“on the stop, please”) when you’ve had enough.. Route information (in Russian only) is posted on the front and back windows. Don’t forget to pay as you exit. Fares range from 1.75 to 2.50Hr.

Train schedule From Odesa To Odesa City Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. 21:16 10:03 CHERKASY 17:07 06:10 15:49 08:55 CHERNIVTSI 15:51 09:21 16:48 21:44 CHISINAU, Moldova 07:30 12:18 22:08 08:28 DNIPROPETROVSK 19:28 06:01 22:39 12:11 KHARKIV 18:03 07:59 15:21 22:44 KHMELNYTSKIY 22:27 06:01 00:52 09:24 KYIV 14:40 23:00 21:36 10:36 KYIV 15:52 04:50 11:36 20:09 KYIV 22:01 06:41 18:28 06:10 LVIV 20:23 08:36 14:45 11:30 13:19 09:17 LUHANSK 14:42 16:26 MINSK, Belarus 07:56 10:52 15:02 15:16 MOSCOW, Russia 21:25 19:06 23:04 09:40 SIMFEROPOL 11:35 22:07 18:38 05:30 ST.-PETERSBURG, Russia 23:59 10:30 18:12 13:03 UZHHOROD 18:15 13:33 13:40 20:09 VINNYTSIA 22:50 05:25 14:51 07:35 ZAPORIZHYA 12:40 05:51

number of the carriage (vagon)

to/from stations

passenger’s name final price arriving date and time

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Basics

8

Basics Customs

Odesa vs. Odessa Though Ukrainian and Russian are similar, there are notable differences including the spelling of many names. This is the case with ‘Odesa’ (Ukrainian) and ‘Odessa’ (Russian). Being that Russian is the language spoken by the overwhelming majority of Odesians, the Russian version is more common and useful, i.e. if you’re searching the Internet, adding the extra ‘s’ with definitely result in more hits.

Borders Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour at borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian wheels don’t fit European tracks and thus have to be switched! You should expect close inspection of your documents and belongings at border crossings. EU and American travellers need a visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and can’t be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their embassies in Odesa (see Directory/Foreign representatives).

Communism Like an aggressive case of athlete’s foot, communism refuses to go away. While Ukraine’s youth embraces capitalism and nationalism, many elderly and disillusioned citizens cling to socialism. In June 2009, this political divide made international news as hooligans linked to a Ukrainian nationalist organisation savagely vandalised a famous statue of Vladimir Lenin in Kyiv. Most people, Ukrainians included, link communism to Russia – this is inaccurate. Many leaders of the Bolshevik Revolution were, in fact, from Ukraine. The most notable of the lot was Lev (Leon) Trotsky, who actually attended secondary school in Odesa. Also, many prominent Soviet leaders had Ukrainian roots. Leonid Brezhnev was born in the Dnipropetrovs’k Oblast. Nikita Khruschev moved from Russia to Donets’k as a teenager, and ascended the ranks of the Communist Party in Donbas and Kyiv. Two monumental atrocities occurred under Stalin’s rule, and memory of the carnage continues to stoke Ukrainian nationalism. The first tragedy is known as Holodomor (starvation), a famine which took place in 1932-33. It is estimated that as many as 2.6 - 10 million Ukrainians perished. There is evidence showing that the famine was, in part, orchestrated by the Soviet leadership in an attempt to squash Ukrainian nationalism. Whether this act should be classified as genocide is currently being debated around the world. The second tragedy is known as the Great Purge (1936–1938). Stalin was obsessed with the complete eradication of political rivals including fellow party members, military commanders, dissidents, artists and anyone else worth being suspicious of. It is estimated that he ordered the execution of as many as 500,000 Soviet people and had millions more sent to gulags (penal labour/death camps). Ukraine’s share of the victims was disproportionately high.

Climate 100

20

75

10 0

-10

-20

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Odesa In Your Pocket

Rainfall, mm

Temperature, °C

30

If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres of wine, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. Personal belongings are not subject to customs duties or taxes, though a customs officer has the right to ask you to make a written declaration in relation to them. (Avoid bringing unessential, valuable, personal items! A colleague of ours was told by a customs officer to declare her wedding band. She declared the value of the ring, and - to make a long story short - she ended up paying a $200 bribe in order to avoid an outrageous duty.) A person can bring in food products free of customs duties and taxes if their total value does not exceed €200. However, food products should not total more than two kilogrammes, and there should not be more than one package of the same product. Goods with a total value of less than €1000 may be brought in free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods is greater than €1000, but less than €10000 they will need to be declared on a customs personal declaration form and you should pay 10% duty plus 20% VAT. If the value of the goods is greater than €10000, the goods will be subject to clearance in accordance with the import declaration requirements for imported cargo. Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any international alert and you have documents which prove your right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (Kanatna 83, tel. (+380 48) 33 52 13). All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must be handed over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost. For further information please visit the official web-site of the State Customs Service of Ukraine www.customs.gov. ua or call the hot line 0 800 501 31 30/ (+380) 44 247 27 19/247 28 50.

Disabled travellers Odesa is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High curb drops and steep steps are the rule. Odesa Holovna train station does have ramps to the platforms, special ticketing windows, toilets and telephones, but the public transport system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in question specifically caters to disabled guests.

Drinking Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if offered home-made vodka (samohon). While good samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether it’s Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some point. A modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner.

50

Electricity

25

Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Russian sockets are being replaced by their European

0

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cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Odesa, so bring your own.

Basic data

Language

Population: 1 010 300 Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 62,2%, Russian 26,8%, Bulgarian 3%, Moldovian 2%, other 6%.

The country’s official language is Ukrainian. pendence in 1991, it has become much more widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions truly predominant.

Since indepopular and Crimea and is Ukrainian

Money The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no problem finding currency exchange points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. You can find a number of ATMs around Odesa and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it.

Safety They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target of crime. Odesa is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially from the police. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport and visa with them at all times.

Smoking From December 16, 2012 smoking is prohibited in all public places. The new law sets a total ban on smoking in restaurants, bars, clubs and cafes (except open terraces), cultural, medical, educational and sport institutions (including playgrounds and stadiums), public transport (including stops), underpasses (subways), and inside apartment buildings (including stairs and lifts). All other premises and buildings (including hotels, hostels, airports, railway terminals) should have designated smoking areas equipped with exhaust ventilation. The law also sets fines from 51–10,000Hr for anyone breaking the law.

Toilets Public restrooms are a sore, dirty and not very aromatic subject in Odesa. They are also in short supply, so make it a rule to go before you leave the hotel and after each café/ restaurant/pub you visit. You’re sure to notice locals dancing frantically as they disappear into alleyways and behind trees, only to reappear fresh and liberated. This may be a tempting alternative, but beware: this behaviour inevitably leads to awkward conversations with local police who love to levy hefty fines on foreign tourists. Good luck.

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Odesa

Ukraine Population: 45 553 000 (1 January 2013) Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8% Russian 17.3% Belarusian 0.6% Moldovan 0.5% Crimean Tatar 0.5% Bulgarian 0.4% Hungarian 0.3% Romanian 0.3% Polish 0.3% Jewish 0.2% other 1.8% Territory: 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe, slightly smaller than Texas), mostly consisting of fertile steppes (plains) and plateaus. The only mountain chains are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Mountains in the extreme south. Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km Rivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Bug, Danube Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in Odesa, it is 14:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York.

Market values How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy list of local prices to give you an idea. McDonald’s Big Mac 18,00Hr €1,84 $2,25 Loaf of white bread 3,25Hr €0,33 $0,40 Snickers bar 6,00Hr €0,61 $0,75 Litre of vodka 50,00Hr €5,12 $6,26 Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 6,00Hr €0,61 $0,75 20 Marlboros 13,50Hr €1,38 $1,69 Public transport ticket 1,25Hr €0,13 $0,16 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 10,99Hr €1,13 $1,31 Official exchange rates (as of July 1): €1 – 10.24Hr US$1 – 7.99Hr £1 – 11.90Hr Current exchange rates are available at

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National holidays 2013 January 1 January 7 March 8 May 1-2 May 5 May 6 May 9 June 23 June 28 August 24

New Year Orthodox Christmas Women’s Day A day off for the workers Easter Sunday Easter Monday Victory Day Trinity Constitution Day Independence Day

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Basics Language The country’s official language is Ukrainian. Since independence in 1991, it has become much more popular and widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Crimea and Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions is Ukrainian truly predominant. Odesians also speak preferably Russian, though we decided on including a list of some of the most common Ukrainian words and phrases a person is likely to need, as you may try Russian wherever, and Ukrainian is a unique expirience. Hello Вітаю (vi-TA-yu) Goodbye До побачення (do po-BA-chennia) Please Будь ласка (bud’ LAS-ka) You’re welcome Прошу (PRO-shu) Thank you Дякую (DIA-kuyu) Excuse me Вибачте (VY-bachte) Yes Так (tak) No Ні (ni) Enjoy your meal Смачного (Smach-NO-ho) Cheers! Будьмо (BUD’-mo) I don’t understand Я не розумію (Ya ne rozu-MI-yu) I don’t know Я не знаю (Ya ne ZNA-yu) Help! Допоможіть (dopomo-ZHIT’) Hospital Лікарня (li-KAR-nia) Ambulance Швидка (shvyd-KA) Where is…? Де знаходиться...? (de zna-KHO-dytsia) Right, left Право, ліво (PRA-vo, LI-vo) Do you speak English? Ви розмовляєте англійською? (Vy roz-mov-LYA-yete an-GLIY-s’koyu) Days of the week Monday Понеділок (pone-DI-lok) Tuesday Вівторок (viv-TO-rok) Wednesday Середа (sere-DA) Thursday Четвер (chet-VER) Friday П’ятниця (PYAT-nytsia) Saturday Субота (su-BO-ta) Sunday Неділя (ne-DI-lia) Numbers 1  один (o-DYN) 7  сім (sim) 2  два (dva) 8  вісім (VI-sim) 3  три (try) 9  дев’ять (DE-vyat’) 4  чотири (cho-TY-ry) 10 десять (DE-syat’) 5  п’ять (pyat’) 100 сто (sto) 6  шість (shist’) 1000 тисяча (TY-sya-cha) Most city centre streets signs are written either in Russian or Ukrainian. We hope this street names transcription will help you to find where you are. Street вулиця (вул.) (VU-lytsia) Square площа (пл.) (PLO-scha) Avenue проспект (просп.) (pro-SPEKT) Boulevard бульвар (бульв.) (bul’-VAR) Bridge міст (mist) Embankment набережна (наб.) (NA-berezhna) Highway шосе (sho-SE) Lane провулок (пров.) (pro-VU-lok) Descent узвіз (uz-VIZ)

Odesa In Your Pocket

Culture & Events Visas Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Mongolia, the USA, Canada, Japan and the countries of the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) - except Turkmenistan - can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone else needs a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with prices varying depending on the type and length of visa requested. Many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain days of the week, so call ahead. Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must obtain a visa. Transit visas are also required. For additional information, call (+380 48) 784 15 44. Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, Andorra, Iceland, Lichtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply for 30-day single and multiple entry business and private visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, or we can book through a travel agency authorized to issue state travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase national medical insurance, and must register their passports with local police within three days of their arrival (hotels are usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For more information, call (+380 44) 537 52 03. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the USA can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other visitors, visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate or at the Chisinau airport by presenting an application form and photos. All visitors planning to stay more than 90 days need an invitation and visa. For more information, call (+380 482) 33 33 94. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the USA, Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call (+380 48) 724 23 24. Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European Schengen zone. For more information call the following embassies: Polish (+380 48) 729 44 13/729 39 36, Hungarian (+380 44) 238 63 81, Slovakian (+380 44) 234 06 06.

Working in Ukraine For most of the past decade, many foreigners took advantage of Ukraine’s relaxed regulations and didn’t bother getting work permits or even visas. Times have definitely changed, and stricter requirements and regulations have forced many of us to play by the rules. Many companies continue to pay in cash under the table, but will offer assistance obtaining extended visas. If you’re planning to work in Ukraine for a long or indefinite period, it may be beneficial to obtain either permanent or temporary residency. For permanent residency you must be sponsored by a relative with Ukrainian citizenship or prove Ukrainian heritage - this can be done by providing the Office of Passport Registration and Immigration (VVIR) with the birth certificate of a parent or grandparent born in Ukraine and documents proving relation, i.e. your birth certificate, parent’s birth certificate, marriage licence showing change of name, etc. Though often complicated and time consuming, local and multinational companies can procure temporary residency for foreign personnel. No matter what category you fall into, plan on big hassles and a lot of time spent at VVIR, the Housing Bureau (ZhEK) and the police station.

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Culture & Events

EUROPEAN UNIVERSITY ODESSA Invites you to study the following areas and specialties: ‫ ׀‬Finance ‫ ׀‬Finance and Credit ‫ ׀‬Banking ‫׀‬ ‫ ׀‬Economics of Enterprise ‫ ׀‬Accounting and Auditing ‫׀‬ ‫ ׀‬Marketing ‫ ׀‬Management ‫ ׀‬Management of Organization ‫׀‬ ‫ ׀‬Management of Foreign Economic Activity ‫׀‬ ‫ ׀‬Management of Innovation Activity ‫׀‬ ‫ ׀‬Management of Innovative Activity ‫׀‬ ‫ ׀‬Managing Information Security ‫ ׀‬Computer Science ‫׀‬ ‫ ׀‬Administrative Management for the Protection of Information with Limited Access ‫׀‬ ‫ ׀‬Information Management Systems and Technologies ‫׀‬ ‫ ׀‬Intelligent Decision ‫ ׀‬Software systems ‫׀‬ ‫ ׀‬Software Engineering ‫ ׀‬Jurisprudence ‫׀‬ ‫ ׀‬Documentation and Information Ecology ‫׀‬ ‫ ׀‬Environmental Protection and Balanced Nature Use ‫׀‬

Vasylya Stusa Str. 2D, Odesa, Ukraine tel. +38 (048) 757 87 31 ‫ ׀‬+38 (048) 757 87 36 www.e-u.in.ua/eng/

Art Galleries Eneida G-5, Velyka Arnautska 32 tel. (+380) 48 722 78 96, [email protected]. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Kontrabas Art-Café Balkivs‘ka 31, tel. (+380) 48 777 05 40, www.kontrabas.od.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. NT-Art I-4, Lidersovs‘kyi bul‘v. 5, office 166, tel. (+380) 48 785 59 34, www.nt-art.net. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Salieri Art Café F-2, Lanzheronivs‘ka 14, tel. (+380) 48 725 00 00. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.

Bavarian House F-4, Uspens‘ka 60, office 2, tel. (+380) 48 777 06 96, fax (+380) 482 34 52 76, www.bayernhaus.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bakhtalo Drom - Odesa Roma Congress Akademika Zabolotnoho 2, apt. 16, [email protected]. British Council Fontans‘ka doroha 33, office 107, tel. (+380) 48 718 81 19, www.britishcouncil.org.ua. QOpen 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun. Bulgarian Culture Centre F-3, prov. Vitse-Admirala Zhukova 9, tel. (+380) 482 35 71 36. Česka rodiná - Odesa Czech Society Akademika Zabolotnoho 51, tel. (+380) 44 54 35 61, www.czrodina.narod.ru. Greek Culture Foundation F-3, Hretska 17, tel. (+380) 482 35 71 36, w w w.hfcodessa.org. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hillel Jewish Culture Centre E-1, Hretska 7, tel. (+380) 48 726 60 00, www.hillel.od.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. Israel Culture Centre E-1, Pastera 11, tel. (+380) 48 723 02 05. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri, Sat. Jewish Culture Centre „Beit Grand“ E-3, Nizhyns‘ka 77/79, tel. (+380) 48 737 40 52, www.beit-grand. odessa.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Odesa branch of Azerbaijani Congress of Ukraine

Bunina 18.

Odesa Jewish Community G-4, Osypova 21, tel. (+380) 48 728 07 70.

Odesa Regional Greek Society Bunina 29, office

18, tel. (+380) 482 37 27 72, [email protected]. Odesa Society of Armenian Culture Gagarinske plato 5. Prosvita Ukrainian Society - Odesa branch H-3, Marazliyevska 34A, tel. (+380) 48 703 36 66. Società Dante Alighieri - Comitato di Odessa F-2, Hoholia 17, tel. (+380) 48 787 96 65, ladante@rambler. ru, www.dantediodessa.blogspot.com. Ukainian Moldovian Cultural Association G-6, Kanatna, 83, office 18. Ukrainian Club of Odesa F-5, Katerynynska 77, tel. (+380) 44 722 09 66, [email protected]. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Novoselskoho 68.

Tvorchestvo F-1, Hoholia 6, tel. (+380) 48 795 59 38. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. U

What’s On

Vernisage H-5, Belins‘koho 13, tel. (+380) 48 725 88

Tango d’Amore

White Moon H-3, Kanatna 9, tel. (+380) 48 715 51 26. QOpen 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Culture Centres & Societies Alliance Française E-2, Sadova 3, tel. (+380) 48 737 46 70, www.af.od.ua/fr. QOpen 15:00 - 19:00, Tue 17:00

- 19:00, Fri 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Arabian Culture Centre F-5, Rishelievs‘ka 49, tel. (+380) 482 37 91 60, www.kivan.com. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri.

Odesa In Your Pocket

Festival of Embroidery 23–26.08.2013 A great chance to become familiar with Ukrainian folk culture, to get some originally made folk crafts as the best souvenirs from Ukraine. All events take place at Prymorskyi bulv.

Odessian Recipes 30.08 - 04.09.2013 The original Odessian cuisine is a fantastic mix of different national cultures and traditions. It is distinctive and savoury. Try the best local dishes at the great festival on the main street. All events will be held around Deribasivska street.

Odesa City Day Gala Concert 02.09.2013 This year Odesa celebrates its 219th anniversary. The city patrons prepare the great programme full of noisy and colourful events with the gala concert of domestic and international stars on its top. The concert will be held on Potemkinski skhody.

Odesa Meetings International Festival of Performance Art 01 - 07.09.2013 This annual event will take place in Odesa for the 8th time. Russian drama theatres from many countries will present their best performances on the stage at the Odesa Academic Russian Drama Theatre. Location: Odesa Academic Russian Drama Theatre (Hretska 48).

International Argentinean Tango Festival 25–28.07.2013 Tango festival in the middle of summer with brilliant maestros, great music, a lot of nice dancers including extremely beautiful followers and tireless leaders. Ad here the sun, the sea, the beach and you’ll get the best time in your life. Milongas from 22:00 at Viktoria hotel (Henuezka 24A). More info: www.milonga.od.ua

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Arabic language courses Art courses Islamic Culture courses Mosque & Muslim Spiritual Services Charity programmes

Jazz Fest 2013

Wiedergeburt- Odesa German Cultural Society

Schastie F-2, Katerynyns‘ka pl. 6, ap.7, tel. (+380) 48 731 54 40. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

99, www.aleksandrovskiy.com.ua/eng. service by Engish, Frech QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. PA6UL

Culture & Events

20 - 25.09.2013 The musicians from 4 continents have been performing on the festival stage for the last ten years. This time you are invited to enjoy fusion projects, ethno jazz, “the third wave”, and vocal jazz. Location: Odesa Philharmonic (Bunina 15).

Art Festival Odesa Biennale 25.09 - 10.10.2013 Over a hundred Ukrainian artist (including legendary maîtres from Odesa) will take part in this traditional event. The Biennale will take place in Odesa Museum of Western and Eastern Art (Pushkinska 9), Fine Art Museum (Sofiivska 5A), A.Korobchiskiy Art Centre.

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17A, Molodezhy Square Str. 65006 Odessa tel: +38 0482 34 72 50 fax: +38 0482 34 72 49 [email protected] facebook/almasar.ua arraid.org

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Where to stay Cream of the Crop Arkadia Plaza Posmitnoho 1, tel. (+380) 482 30 71

00/(+380) 482 30 71 01, fax (+380) 482 30 71 58, [email protected], www.arcadia-plaza.com/ english. Arkadia is officially a four star hotel. As we explored the luxurious rooms and became familiar with the wealth of available services we wondered what had happened to the fifth star. Did it get devoured, like a remote control, in the cushions of one of the rooms‘ plush sofas? The 24 lux-class rooms and four spacious suites are stunning, but the services are really what set this place apart. Where else can you order room service 24/7, play tennis, dine on fine French cuisine and disco all under one roof? Other services include swimming-pool, sunbathing terrace, sauna, Jacuzzi, massage room, parking, bar/lounge, etc. Did we mention that the hotel is situated on a popular windsurfing beach? Q24 rooms (10 standard 1980 2190Hr, 8 superior 2520 - 2730Hr, 2 junior suite 3739 - 3969Hr, 3 suite 5850 - 6060Hr, 1 “Plaza” Suite 7551 - 7761Hr, extra bed 450Hr). PiTHARFLGKDCW hhhh

Continental G-3, Deribasivs‘ka 5, tel. (+380) 48 786 03

Where to stay Editor’s note Odesa has been a popular business and tourist destination for more that 200 years. The interest in this important region has left an indelible mark in the form of plenty of accommodation. From ultra-ritzy to run-down Soviet relics, Odesa‘s hotel infrastructure can easily accommodate a wide range of clientele including convention goers, discriminating business travellers, sun-seeking families and even budget backpackers. Rooms become harder to find during the summer peak. Our obvious recommendation: book ahead and avoid the hassle. Tired of hotels? A number of private companies offer newly renovated apartments, which can be rented on a nightly basis and are considerably cheaper than most hotel rooms. The advantages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are definite pluses. Prices include breakfast and VAT (20%), unless otherwise stated. Mostly prices do not include 1% tourist tax.

99, fax (+380) 48 786 05 50, office@continental-hotel. com.ua, www.hotel-continental-odessa.com. Originally constructed in the mid 19th century, the hotel was completely reconstructed in 2005. Today it prides itself on being Odesa‘s ideal venue for business and leisure. All rooms are luxuriously designed and incorporate all services expected of a four star hotel including satellite TV, internet, safe, mini-bar, Italian furniture and air-conditioning. Perhaps the most noteworthy feature is located on the first floor. I‘m referring to the lavish Voyage Restaurant, of course. One taste of the original, superb dishes and you‘ll book a room just to be close to this culinary gem. Q32 rooms (6 economy 1290Hr, 12 standard 1730Hr, 10 junior suite 2390Hr, 3 suite 2900Hr, 1 apartment 4420Hr, extra bed 363Hr). PHARFLGKDCW hhhh

ning the corseted ladies for his next adulterous feast. With its elegant interior and location at the epicentre of Odesa‘s art and culture scene, its understandable why this hotel so easily lured Pushkin. The casino‘s gone, but a variety of impressive amenities stand in its place and include a swimming pool, VIP lounge, bar, banquet halls and Mozart‘s own restaurant renown for its Ukrainian and European dishes and romantic views of the Opera and Ballet Theatre. The rooms definitely lack in space, but are luxurious and packed with goodies such as airconditioning, cable TV, Internet, mini-bar, etc. Q41 rooms (3 suites 2722 - 3785Hr, 3 apartments 3984Hr, 2 junior standards 1328 - 1859Hr, 28 standards 1585 - 2117Hr, 2 family rooms 1585 - 3179Hr, 3 junior suites 2192 - 3254Hr, extra bed 531Hr). PiHARLGKDCW hhhh

Maristrella Club Vannyi prov. 3, tel. (+380) 48 785

Otrada I-6, Zatyshna 11, tel./fax (+380) 482 33 06 98,

50 00/(+380) 482 32 44 44, luxury@maristella-club. com, www.maristella-club.com. A Luxurious 5 star hotel on the seaside outside the centre. This Wellness Spa Resort is in the shape of a large ship. There are 15 top notch rooms ranging from 2200Hr per night. The staff was very helpful and fluent in English. The price includes breakfast and the use of all facilities, pools, spa, gym, etc. Q17 rooms (5 standard 2200 - 2750Hr, 5 studio 4500 - 5400Hr, 5 deluxe suite 6000Hr, 1 Presidential suite 11000Hr, 1 Presidential apartment 15000Hr). PiTAFLKDCwW hhhhh

Morskoy Kryshtalevyi prov. 1/1, tel. (+380) 482 33

90 90/(+380) 482 33 90 95, fax (+380) 482 33 90 91, [email protected], www.morskoy.com. Morskoy is located just steps away from Arcadia Beach and a 10 minute taxi ride from centre. There are countless attractions in the neighbourhood, and sun-seekers tend to stay, dine and party long into the night at one of Arcadia‘s many restaurants and nightclubs. The hotel was built recently so rooms are fashionable and modern. All come equipped with safe, mini-bar, air-conditioning and satellite TV. The hotel‘s Fish Time Restaurant is worth checking out even if you‘re not staying at the hotel. Q54 rooms (29 standard 1912 - 2212Hr, 12 superior 2232 - 2532Hr, 4 junior suite 3032Hr, 6 suite 3512 - 3812Hr, 2 apartment 4312 - 4612Hr, 1 apartments with a terrace 6136 - 6436Hr). PiHARFLGKDCW hhhh

[email protected], en.hotel-otrada.com. Located in the ritziest part of town and just steps from the beach, Otrada is a touch of class in a sea of mediocrity. The stunning building was designed and constructed in the late 19th century. The 26 rooms were elegantly remodelled in 2005. All rooms come with satellite TV, Internet access, mini-bar, safe, hair-dryer, robe and slippers. This ultra-stylish venue is equipped with wonderful security, room service, business centre services and free parking. Two of the city‘s most celebrated eateries, Casa d‘Italia and La Terrazza, offer-up fine European and Ukrainian cuisine. Otrada‘s Beach Club is unrivalled in Odesa: relax in the pool or sauna and get pampered at the beauty centre. Q26 rooms (10 standards 1850 - 2257Hr, 6 superiors 2504 - 2704Hr, 7 junior suites 3226 - 4884Hr, 2 suites 6347Hr, 1 apartment 9800Hr, extra bed 525Hr). PiTHAR6UFLG� KDCW hhhhh

Villa Venezia Kamanina 16, tel. (+380) 482 34 26 36/

(+380) 482 34 69 34, [email protected], www. venice-hotel.com.ua. There are 10 fully equipped rooms in 3 categories ranging from 790Hr- 1980Hr. There is a sauna, indoor and outdoor pools, and many extras including round the clock service. The popular restaurant offers European and Italian cuisine with Italian chefs at your service. Q9 rooms (3 standard 1680Hr, 3 junior suite 2290Hr, 2 suite 2850Hr, 1 VIP suite 3890Hr, extra bed 500Hr). PHARKDCW

Mozart F-2, Lanzheronivs‘ka 13, tel. (+380) 482 37 77

77/(+380) 482 37 69 00, fax (+380) 482 37 98 94, www.mozart-hotel.com/en. During his exile in Odesa, Aleksander Sergeyevich Pushkin was a regular at this hotel‘s casino. Can you see him across the room? He‘s perched attentively on a card table stool, one eye tracking his bet, the other scan-

Odesa In Your Pocket

€1 = 10.24Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 11.90Hr

(1 July 2013 official rates) odesa.inyourpocket.com

13, Lanzheronovskaya Str. 65026 Odessa, Ukraine tel.: +380 482 37 77 77 [email protected] www.mozart-hotel.com

Upmarket Aleksandrovskiy F-4, Oleksandrovskyi prosp. 12, tel.

(+380) 48 725 61 61, fax (+380) 48 725 48 47, [email protected], www.alexandrovskiy. com.ua. This modern hotel is situated in the heart of the historical city centre and is ideal for either business or pleasure. There are 38 rooms in five different categories, something for everyone. All come with fully equipped and many have a lovely view. The restaurant is 1st class with a lovely beige décor and offers European, Russian, and Ukrainian dishes. An average meal costs around 250Hr per person and it‘s open from 11:00-22:00. There are also 2 conference rooms available for business meetings. Q38 rooms (standard 990 - 1150Hr, superior standard 1300 - 1460Hr, junior suite 1700 - 1860Hr, suite 2200 - 2800Hr). PHKW

Ark Palace-Premium Hotel Apartments Henuezs‘ka

1B, tel. (+380) 48 773 70 70, fax (+380) 48 773 72 77, [email protected], www.arkapart.com. Located to the south of the city near the popular Arcadia beach area. The Ark Hotel is just a part of a larger complex that composes a restaurant, a giant swimming pool, health Club and a fitness studio, yet it is independently operated. There are 20 rooms all gorgeously decorated in a quasi near eastern style with Italian furniture. The Gaudi Restaurant is something to see - a unique elegant near eastern design and a nice atmosphere. They offer a great variety of European dishes as well as Chinese and Japanese cuisine. It is worth a visit! Q20 rooms (standard 960 - 1050Hr, superior 1080 - 1200Hr, junior suite 1920Hr, suite 2520Hr, deluxe apartment 3000Hr, extra bed 300Hr). PFKCwW

Ayvazovsky G-3, Bunina 19, tel. (+380) 48 728 97

77, fax (+380) 48 728 11 34, [email protected]. ua, www.ayvazovsky.com.ua. Named in honour of the famous Crimean painter, Ayvasovsky sits on a hushed street a few doors down from the Opera and Ballet Theatre and Philharmonic. The design and comfort of the rooms and the level of service definitely warrants more than a three star

Symbol key P Air-conditioning

L Guarded parking

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

T Child friendly

G Non-smoking rooms

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

A Credit cards accepted

D Sauna

U Facilities for the disabled

C Swimming pool

F Fitness centre

W Wi-Fi internet access

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rating, but rooms are relatively small and don‘t come with a balcony. International telephone connection, wireless Internet, mini-bar, safe and air-conditioning are standard in all rooms. The accommodation rate includes a continental breakfast. Services available with additional charges include mini-bar, laundry services and car park. Q27 rooms (suites 1850Hr, standard 880 - 1280Hr, junior suite 1680Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PiHAGW hhh

California F-4, Yevreis‘ka 27, tel. (+380) 48 796 63 33,

fax (+380) 48 796 63 01, office@hotelcaliforniaodessa. com, hotelcaliforniaodessa.com/en. This is a lovely, modern four star hotel right in the centre. One cannot help but notice the bright - spacious atmosphere which the open lobby gives. All the rooms are bright with a classic décor. Prices are usually more in the high season. All rooms come with a continental breakfast - from 08:00-11:00 - and free parking. The Gallery Restaurant is open from 08:00-22:00 and features great Odesa cuisine. An average meal will run you about 400Hr. There is also a beauty salon on the ground floor. Q44 rooms (singles 648Hr, doubles 744 - 1080Hr, junior suite 1350Hr, suite 2322Hr, presidential 4050Hr). iHLKDW hhhh

Chorne More F-5, Rishelievs‘ka 59, tel. (+380) 482

30 09 04, fax (+380) 48 731 47 23, blacksea@bs-hotel. com.ua, www.bs-hotel.com.ua/en. This hotel caters to all tastes. The rooms are elegant, but have a welcome home feel. For those in need of relaxation, a sauna, solarium and massage parlour are just steps away. For those looking to burn a few calories, the hotel has a relatively impressive swimming pool and fitness centre. The restaurant serves up scrumptious European and Japanese cuisine (banquet room seating for up to 85 available), and concert hall are also at your disposal. Breakfast not included. Q207 rooms (23 singles 500 - 550Hr, 103 doubles 500 - 700Hr, 72 junior suites 650 - 800Hr, 9 suite 900 - 1300Hr, extra bed 100Hr). PARFLGKDCW hhhh

Ekaterina II E-2, Kateryninska pl. 7B, tel. (+380) 48

729 67 00, [email protected], www.hotelekaterina.od.ua. This lovely hotel is named in honour of Catherine the Great whose decree in 1794 founded the city of Caledonia (Odesa). It is close to the centre near the famous Potemkin steps. The building which houses “Catherine” is a monument of architecture. It was built in 1905 and has the longest and most famous balcony in Europe. (We bet you didn‘t know that.) There are 12 exquisite junior suites and 13 standard rooms. Each room has its own design & colour giving a warm and cosy atmosphere. There are also a few self-contained apartments. We found the staff to be friendly and helpful, and fluent in English. It has a lovely roof-top 24-hour restaurant with a breathtaking view. Q25 rooms (economy 980Hr, standard 1120 - 1220Hr, superior 1320Hr, junior suite 1140 - 1160Hr). PKW

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Where to stay Frapolli G-2, Deribasivs‘ka 13, tel./fax (+380) 482 35 68 01, [email protected], www.frapolli-hotel.com. They must be doing something right - all 26 rooms were booked when we visited and they could only show us around the elegant lobby. The excellent location on Deribasivs‘ka vul. and the luxurious interior justify its popularity. Rooms come with air-conditioning, safe, mini-bar, satellite TV and views ideal for people watching. A small meeting room equipped with modern goodies can be booked and accommodates up to 20. Other mentionables include breakfast buffet, bar, sauna, gym and round the clock service. Q27 rooms (2 economy rooms 840Hr, 9 standards 1185 - 1385Hr, 9 superiors 1475 - 1675Hr, 5 junior suites 1590 - 1790Hr, 1 suite 1740 - 1940Hr, 1 apartments 2000Hr). PTHAR6ULGKDW hhhh Frederic Koklen F-2, Nekrasova prov. 7, tel. (+380) 48

737 55 53, fax (+380) 48 737 55 51, fkhotel@gmail. com, www.koklenhotel.com. This small cosy boutique hotel s located in the historical centre of Odesa and is surrounded by all major city attractions. The four storied 19th century building contains 17 rooms, which are designed in classic style. In the hotel you won‘t find two similar rooms, each is unique. The set of amenities includes Wi-Fi, airconditioning, satellite TV etc. There is also a fitness centre and conference hall. The hotel‘s windows overlook either the old streets of Odesa, or the lovely courtyard. Q17 rooms (1 single 1455Hr, 9 doubles 1735Hr, 1 junior suite 2355Hr, 4 suite 2830 - 4035Hr, 2 apartments 2955Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PHAR6UFLGKW hhh

La Gioconda I-5, Druhyi Lermontovskyi provulok, 1, tel.

(+380) 48 784 14 60, fax (+380) 48 784 14 59, [email protected], www.lagioconda.odessa. ua. This boutique hotel is building a reputation of a “friendly” hotel, the staff do all they can to make your stay pleasant. While it is a bit off the beaten path, it‘s not that far from the centre and has an excellent sea view. There is a swimming pool and lovely gardens to stroll in. There are 16 spacious rooms in lovely décor; each room has its own unique design. Prices range from 1,600-3,200Hr per room. Q16 rooms (deluxe room 1970 - 2670Hr, junior suite 2550 - 3100Hr, suite 3100Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PiAFGXCW

Royal Street F-2, Deribasivska 27, tel. (+380) 48 777 29 99, [email protected], www.royalstreet. com.ua. This quaint hotel is located in the historical part of Odessa with the Greek Square and City Gardens just outside your door, and the opera is just five minutes away. There 24 fully equipped rooms ranging from 570Hr to 1,110 in the low season and 840Hr to 1,400Hr in the high season. This is the price for double occupancy - for one person it is a bit less. Breakfast is included in all prices. Q24 rooms (economy 640 - 840Hr, standard 880 - 1080Hr, superior 990 - 1190Hr, family duplex 990 - 1190Hr, junior suite 1090 - 1290Hr, suite 1200 - 1400Hr). PiALW Vele Roso Garshina 3, tel. (+380) 48 777 03 03, fax

(+380) 58 777 04 94, [email protected], www. velerosso.com.ua. Translated from Italian -“scarlet sails”, Vele Roso is an ideal place away from the hustle of the city. It is in the popular resort area called “Big Fountain” and just a 5 minute walk from the beach. It reminded us on an American motel from the outside, as there is lots of parking for the 54 rooms. It is smartly furnished - all rooms have all the basics including a private balcony. As it is in the “green area” there is beautiful scenery everywhere. The restaurant is open from 07:30-21:00 and offers a great range of European cuisine at pretty good value with an average meal costing around 150Hr. There is also a lobby bar as well as a billiard room, internet room, and a sauna with pool. Q54 rooms (economy 450 - 520Hr, standart 790 - 880Hr, standart superior 880 - 960Hr, junior suite 980 - 1080Hr, suite 1280 1380Hr, vip apartment 1500 - 1600Hr). PiHKDCW

Odesa In Your Pocket

Where to stay Mid-range Brigantina Lanzheron beach, tel. (+380) 48 725 07 25, fax (+380) 48 725 67 25, [email protected], www.hotel-brigantina.od.ua. The feature that sets Brigantina apart from the competition on Lanzheron beach is that they have English speaking staff that can help with information and arranging excursions, taxis, etc. Rooms are basic, tidy, come equipped with Wi-Fi, TV, air conditioner and are priced according to the view. Space is limited, so book ahead. The restaurant features a popular terrace, a spacious indoor dining area and private dining room. Ukrainian and European dishes make up a menu highlighted by grilled veal, pork and chicken, salmon, Black Sea flatfish and roasted veggies. Q9 rooms (8 doubles 600 - 700Hr, 1 suite 1000Hr). PARGKW hhh

Chorne More Otrada H-6, Vitse-Admirala Azarova 1, tel.

(+380) 48 729 86 556, fax (+380) 48 729 86 56, [email protected], www.bs-hotel.com.ua. It is located near the centre not far from the famous “French boulevard”. The hotel has a restaurant, lobby bar, summer terrace with BBQ, four tennis courts, and a football field. Nearby are a hiking trail, beach, and a yacht club, where one can find boats for hire. One can rent speedy little water scooters, or be dragged by a boat in a parachute. There are 32 rooms with a modern, stylish design. They have lovely panorama windows and some have a sea view. The prices varying according to the season and number of occupants. Breakfast not included. The restaurant serves Mediterranean and European cuisine and is open daily from 07:00-21:00, weekends till 23:00. Q32 rooms (25 standard 715 - 825Hr, 5 junior suite 935 - 1045Hr, 2 suite 1430Hr). PHLKW

Deribas F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 27, tel. (+380) 48 794 43 64, [email protected], www.hotel-deribas. com. Conveniently located on the most popular street in the city centre. All rooms are decorated in lovely light tones and are fully equipped. Prices range depending on the season and amount of persons booking. Each room comes with a semi kitchen, and there is catering available as well as a handsome discount at a nearby restaurant. Q (economy 550Hr, standard 720Hr, business 1000Hr, superior business 1200Hr). PW Ekaterina F-3, Hrets‘ka 25, tel. (+380) 48 722 64 08,

[email protected], www.hotel-ekaterina. com. The hotel is named in honour of Catherine the Great who in 1794 issued the decree to found the town “the pearl near the sea” and named it Odesa. It is located right in the city centre. The building was originally created by the famous architecture Ju.M. Dmitrenko as a mansion. Each room is uniquely designed with Italian furniture, is fully equipped, and can accommodate up to 3. Q15 rooms (suites 1290 - 1350Hr, apartments 1490 1790Hr, junior suite 1150 - 1190Hr, deluxe suite 1550 - 1750Hr, family 1840 - 2040Hr, extra bed 150Hr). PW

Medea Henuezka, 31/1, tel. (+380) 48 746 62 51, fax

(+380) 48 760 13 38, [email protected], www.medea. at.ua. This hotel-restaurant is hard to beat! I remember seeing the restaurant before but never realised that it is a hotel as well. It‘s as close to the sea as you can get, right in the heart of Arcadia. There are 13 fully equipped rooms - all with a sea view! Coffee in bed is included! (Breakfast and Internet costs a bit extra.) The décor is an old style of beautiful wood and stone which gives it an authentic Armenian touch. The restaurant is of course Armenian cuisine with an English menu and a warm English speaking staff. There is shashlyk, and special dishes with mutton and chicken served with potatoes by dancing girls in Armenian costumes. (Or is it Armenian girls in dancing costumes?) The average meal is about 300Hr per person. Open 24 hours. Q13 rooms (economies 650Hr, standards 800Hr, superior standards 1200Hr). PAGK

Oktyabrskaya H-4, Kanatna 31, tel. (+380) 48 728

88 63, fax (+380) 48 760 14 62, info@oktyabrskaya. com.ua, oktyabrskaya.com.ua. This hotel is located ten minutes walk from Deribasivs‘ka in one direction and the train station in the other. Rooms are neatly remodelled to the local taste and come standard with refrigerator, satellite TV and Internet connection. Most rooms have air-conditioning and some suites come with balconies overlooking a sleepy courtyard. Economy class rooms have a shared bathroom. The complimentary light buffet breakfast is served in the quaint café that features Ukrainian cuisine. There is very little information available in English, but the staff is more or less capable and, true to their Odesian roots, are friendly and always willing to help. The hotel‘s conference hall accommodates up to 30. Q59 rooms (7 suites 1080 - 1160Hr, 11 economy 430 - 510Hr, 34 standard 680 - 860Hr, 7 junior suite 930 - 1010Hr). PHARLGKDW hhh

Tsentralnyi E-3, Preobrazhens‘ka 40, tel. (+380) 48

726 84 06, fax (+380) 48 726 86 89, [email protected], www.centralhotel.od.ua. Is the glass half empty or is it half full? Is Tsentralnyi a great value or do you get what you pay for? You be the judge. The location is a definite plus, as is the English speaking front desk. Be nice to the Soviet-era ‘key lady‘ who patrols the halls - this may be the ‘key‘ to a satisfying stay. Corny jokes aside, the rooms have had some remodelling, the complimentary slippers are a nice touch and the communal toilet is clean. That‘s right. If you opt for a cheaper room, you‘ll have to share a toilet. The café and bar are on the ground floor. Q61 rooms (25 singles 260 - 500Hr, 24 doubles 340 - 760Hr, 8 junior suites 800 - 900Hr, 4 suite 1200Hr, extra bed 100Hr). PiHAR6LGW hh

Yunost S.Varlamova 32, tel. (+380) 48 738 04 04/

(+380) 48 738 04 17, fax (+380) 48 738 04 12, [email protected], www.hotel-yunost.com. Located on legendary Frantsuzkyi Boulevard, Yunost offers affordable rooms and spacious conference facilities. Arcadia Beach - Odesa’s coastal dining and entertainment epicentre - and the botanical garden are just a short walk/ride from the hotel. The three modern conference rooms are perfect for both large conferences and small business meetings. The café and Mediterranean Terrace offer guests a variety of tasty dishes. Banquets can be arranged for up to 45 people; parties and standing receptions can be booked for as many as 60. Other notable services include Wi-Fi, banking, car rental, parking, safe, transfer, travel services, beauty salon, massage, room service and a business centre. Yunost is also known for its enticing specials such as the wedding and honeymoon package and unbeatable deals for business groups. Q156 rooms (17 singles 495Hr, 66 doubles 495Hr, 30 junior suites 910Hr, 43 suites 1060 - 1260Hr). PHARUFLDW hhh

Lermontovskiy I-5, Lermontovs‘kyi prov. 2, tel. (+380) 48 717 78 79, [email protected], www.lermontovskiy. com.ua. The hotel is located next to Lermontovs‘kyi Sanatorium - a tremendously popular destination for health rejuvenation and relaxation during Soviet times. The hotel really stands out against the rundown back drop that is the sanatorium. The area and hotel continue to attract a mostly Eastern European crowd and westerners may find familiar services lacking and the atmosphere somewhat tacky. However, the location - a short walk from the beach, Chornomorets Tennis Club, a yacht club and seaside restaurants - make this an intriguing possibility for summer visitors. All rooms come equipped with air-conditioning and satellite TV. You‘ll have to book a “premium” if you desire a mini-bar, bathrobe or slippers. Services include a restaurant, café, sauna, small conference room, travel services, parking and laundry. Q33 rooms (singles 620Hr, doubles 650 - 840Hr, suites 890 - 1080Hr). PHALGKDCW hhh odesa.inyourpocket.com

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Where to stay

Budget Mirage I-5, Lanzheron beach, tel./fax (+380) 48 725

74 16, [email protected], www.mirage.od.ua/en/. Mirage is a popular seaside destination for families with small children. Rooms are modern and come with views of the sea or a courtyard garden. Air conditioner and cable TV come standard. The restaurant is open 24 hours and has an eclectic menu with tasty grill and fish items, a great kids section. Popular terrace seating is also available. Q12 rooms (12 doubles 650 - 750Hr). PKW Passage E-2, Preobrazhens‘ka 34, tel. (+380) 48 728 55 00/(+380) 48 728 55 01, fax (+380) 48 728 55 02, [email protected], passage-hotel.com.ua. Once a prestigious hotel, almost nothing has changed about this place since the Brezhnev years. The rooms‘ amenities (i.e. the phone, facets and light fixtures) are working Soviet-era antiques. Though primitive, it has managed to keep some of its charm and offers an affordable alternative to the megaprice joints you‘ll find on and around Deribasivs‘ka vul. The helpful staff speaks some English. A Georgian restaurant, bar and salon round-out the available services. Q132 rooms (23 economy 190 - 265Hr, 69 standard 316 - 516Hr, 36 junior suite 490 - 780Hr, 4 suite 915Hr). PA6LGK hh Shalanda Lanzheron beach, tel./fax (+380) 48 787 10 10, www.shalanda.odessa.ua. Shalanda is located 30 metres from the beach and every room comes with a sea view. The hotel features four junior suite rooms (a bit tight) and two suites. The European-Ukrainian restaurant offers up hearty dishes such as Waldorf salad, borsht, salmon, steaks and a succulent grill selection. Breakfast is included in the room rate and is served until 12:00 (perfect for late night partiers). Q6 rooms (4 junior suite 800Hr, 2 suite 1000Hr, extra bed 400 - 500Hr). Pi6GK

Apartment hotels Amerikano F-3, Rishelievska 17, 3rd floor, tel./fax

(+380) 48 729 70 50, tel. (+380) 93 541 69 69, info@ aparthotelamerikano.com, www.aparthotelamerikano. com. It‘s amazing what can be done with a little imagination. From the outside it looks like a regular apartment building. Inside, it resembles a 4 star hotel with 24 rooms, it is right near the centre and quite unique as each room has its own in style and décor such as art deco, etc. Prices are quite reasonable running from 400-800Hr per room. Q studio 775Hr, junior suite 936Hr, deluxe suite 1110Hr. PAGW Corona Henuezka 36, tel. (+380) 48 700 44 08, fax (+380) 48 785 40 89, [email protected], www. coronahotel.com.ua. These lovely hotel/apartments are located near Arcadia and the beach . Some rooms are apartments with kitchen etc. while others are just hotel rooms. All

Odesa In Your Pocket

Where to stay

are top standard, fully equipped with round the clock service. There is a lovely café open from 10:00-00:00. Feel like a workout? There is also access to the city‘s largest fitness club - right in the building. Transfers and help with tickets etc. is also available. Prices vary according to category and time of year. We thought it a pretty good deal. (Careful for the elevator - it‘s tricky.) Q standard 960 - 1000Hr, superior standard 1150 - 1200Hr, suite 1200Hr, apartment 1400 - 1550Hr. PW DRK Residence F-2, Lanzheronivska 24, tel. (+380) 482 32 72 26/(+380) 482 32 72 28, fax (+380) 482 32 82 29, www.hotel-drk.com.ua. Located smack dab in the centre, this “residence” has a unique theme; all rooms are 2 tier thus creating more space. The décor is modern with beige tones adding to the peaceful atmosphere of the hotel. It has air conditioning and all the standard goodies, and surprise - it is “wheel chair accessible”. Breakfast included. Q28 rooms (standard 700 - 950Hr, junior suite 1100Hr, suite 1500 - 1900Hr). PUW Odesskiy Dvorik Residence H-4, Uspens‘ka 19, tel. (+380) 48 777 72 71/(+380) 48 784 53 46, fax (+380) 48 728 75 73, [email protected], odesskii-dvorik.od.ua. This hotel has a unique design with a „V.I.P. room“, 7 Elite, 6 luxury, 12 business, 15 Standard and 2 economy rooms. All rooms are modern, comfortable, with TV, mini-bar, electronic safe, air-conditioner, phone, and internet access option. The hotel includes restaurant (Jazz Cafe), conference hall (up to 80 persons), gymnasium, parking, and Wi-Fi zone. Moderately priced. Q49 rooms (economy 950Hr, standard 900 - 1100Hr, junior suite 1160 - 1360Hr, suite 1560 - 1760Hr, apartment 3200Hr, extra bed 200Hr). PiHAR6FLG� KDW hhhh Renaissance Suites Odessa G-3, Rishelievs‘ka 11, apt. 22, tel. (+380) 48 787 01 11/(+380) 48 700 5666, [email protected], renaissancesuitesodessa.com. Great location in the centre with a friendly English speaking staff. We liked the bright rooms and fully equipped kitchen. Very modern with sat TV and computer with internet. Also free phone calls to anywhere in the world! Q10 rooms (4 studio 59 - 69US$, 3 1-bedroom 75 - 79US$, 2 2-bedroom 120 139US$, 1 3-bedroom 149 - 170US$). PRW

Apartment Rental Odessa Apartments E-2, Hrets‘ka pl., Afina Centre,

7th floor, Suite 745, tel. (+380) 67 708 55 01/(+380) 67 484 52 36, [email protected], www.odessaapts. com. Odessa Apartments offers a large variety of fully serviced apartments in the prime centre of Odesa. Apartments for every taste, budget and style both in the centre and near Arkadia beach. Free airport pick-up. Q studio from $49, 1-bedroom from $42, 2-bedroom from $74, 3-bedroom from $134. PA

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Hostels Antony‘s Home F-4, Troitska 45, (+380) 50 391 54

20, [email protected]. Anthony‘s Home is located in the historical part of Odesa, within 5 minutes walking distance of the main street - Deribasivska, in a quiet and safe courtyard. It offers dorms for 8, 5 and 4 people (the last one with a balcony) and 1 room for couples and 1 room for 3 people (i.e. families), with windows facing the courtyard. There are 5 shared WC in hostel and also, a washing machine, a kitchen-studio with a refrigerator and a gas cooker. Nearby there is a supermarket and a parking lot. Q Beds in mixed dorm from €10. W Lafa E-3, Hretska 50, apt 12, tel. (+380) 63 152 97 91/(+380) 48 726 33 99. Located in a quiet courtyard in the heart of Odesa‘s historic Old Town, this hostel is just a 2-minute walk from the famous Deribasivska Street. Free Wi-Fi and a shared kitchen are featured here. Guests at the Lafa stay in colourful dormitories, which have a shared bathroom in the hallway. The shared kitchen is ideal for preparing meals, and there are several restaurants and supermarkets within walking distance of the Lafa. Q Bed in mixed dorm from 130Hr. GXW Maryan‘s Home G-2, Deribasivska 9, apt. 31, tel. (+380) 95 894 8508. Maryan‘s Home is located in the main street of Odesa in a quiet and safe courtyard. There is a code lock on the gate facing the street. It offers 2 dorms, for 4 and 6 people, and 1 private single bedroom, where windows facing the courtyard. There is a shared bathroom and toilet with a washing machine. There‘s also a kitchen with a refrigerator and a gas cooker. Other facilities include free tea and coffee all day. Q Bed in mixed dorm from €12. PW The Babushka Grand Hostel F-5, Mala Arnauts‘ka 60, 2nd floor, apt. 16, tel. (+380) 63 070 55 35, [email protected]. Located in the city centre, 3 blocks from the train station. The hostel is a large spacious apartment with chandeliers and gold gilded ceilings, styled after the palace of an 18th century Odesa aristocrat. It has two balconies for lounging or smoking, two bathrooms and a large comfy communal area with couches and a TV. The kitchen is fully functional with a blender, microwave, stove, oven, spices, coffee grinder. Q doubles 375Hr, 4-bed dorms 160Hr, 10-bed dorms 125Hr. PW TIU Front Page E-2, Koblevs‘ka 42, tel. (+380) 96 834 40 74, [email protected]. The hostel consists of a large and airy 13 bed dorm room with a small private balcony overlooking the cobbled street, another large 11 bed dorm and 2 privates. There is a common room with sofas, TV, and a book-swap library. Kitchen is fully equipped and a large dining/ entertaining area is available. Free security lockers for every guest are the great touch. Q 2 doubles €18, 2 dorms €12. W

odesa.inyourpocket.com

Door smarts A quick yet indispensable guide to those embarrassing moments in front of a foreign door. Pull На себе На себя Push Від себе От себя Open Відчинено Открыто Closed Зачинено Закрыто

Guest House De Rishelie F-4, Rishelievs‘ka 30, tel. (+380) 48 785

16 53, [email protected], www.derishele.od.ua. Very cosy atmosphere in a renovated mansion, with friendly staff speaking basic English in a good central location. All rooms are equipped with TV and WiFi. Q14 rooms (2 economy 350Hr, 8 standard 400Hr, 4 superior 450Hr). PARW

Health Resorts Kuyalnik Resort Kuyalnik Liman, tel. (+380) 48 751 51 13, fax (+380) 48 751 51 32, [email protected]. www.kuyalnik.com.ua. Located on the coast 13 kilometres from the city centre, Kuyalnik‘s sulphide silt mud is world renowned for its medicinal properties. Established in 1833, this is the oldest mud resort in Ukraine. Also, Kuyalnik mineral water has been proven to improve gastrointestinal function. Chabanka Rest Complex Hvardiys’ka 50, Chornomorske, Odesa Region, tel. (+380) 48 750 99 90, fax (+380) 48 750 99 76, [email protected], www.chabanka.od.ua. Chabanka is located 30 kilometres from Odesa on the sea cost and surrounded by a large park with exotic flowers, lakes and fountains. Restaurant, bar, fitness centre, tennis court, billiard, golf field, swimming pool and guarded parking are for guests service. English speaking staff that can help with information and arranging excursions, taxis, etc. 2013

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Restaurants Gourmet’s Haven

Symbol key P Air conditioning

V Home delivery

6 Animal friendly

E Live music

T Child friendly

G Non-smoking areas

A Credit cards accepted

X Smoking section

U Facilities for the disabled S Take away I Fireplace

B Terrace

L Guarded parking

W Wi-Fi internet access

American Bootlegger F-1, Viiskovyi uzviz 6, tel. (+380) 48 740 54 14, www.bootlegger.od.ua. Yes, this does have something do with the bootlegging days of Al Capone. There are many pictures on the walls that cover the “prohibition era”, some include Al & friends, and there are two Thompson machines on display. Many labels of whisky are on stock and can be bought at “shop” prices. There is even a 30% “whisky” discount on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 12:00-21:00. The cuisine is international with some interesting dishes such as the Ribs we tried for only 69Hr. They were smothered with a delicious honey sauce and covered with Jack Daniels. The average meal costs around 300Hr for 2 including whisky. There is a business lunch every day from 12:00-17:00 for 50Hr. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PAGBW Steakhouse: Meat & Wine F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 20, tel. (+380) 482 34 87 82, www.steak.od.ua. The locals like to congregate out front and pose with the statue of the red and white zebra-striped cow, but inside its all about the beef and vino (wine). There are many delicious dishes on the menu that don‘t include beef, but don‘t be ridiculous! The sirloin here is so succulent that you‘ll think you‘ve been beamed from Odesa, Ukraine to Odessa, Texas. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PTA6GBXW

Asian Devarana Tenysta 9/12, tel. (+380) 48718 18 18, www.devarana.com.ua. We felt we were transported to Thailand the first moment we entered. Devarana is not just a restaurant; it‘s a museum, a shrine to the Thai royal family, a gallery, gift shop, boutique, and a spa with authentic Thai message. The décor is mahogany, gold, porcelain, almost indescribable. The cuisine is Thai, Sushi, and European, and well priced to fit the experience. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. SPA 10:00 - 23:00. PALVGBXSW

Bulgarian 4 B o l g a r i a n a ( Fo u r B u l g a r i a n s ) F - 4 ,

Katerynyns‘ka 54/56, tel. (+380) 48 784 04 10. We found 4 Bolgarina to be a welcome detour from the mainstream. Everything bursts with unique flavour, especially the exciting traditional Bulgarian salads, cheeses and the Bulgarski sach (large fillets of chicken, veal or pork roasted with vegetables and served in a wine sauce). Each week the chef offers up a new dish of his own creation! Don‘t fret if you left your Bulgarian dictionary in Varna, the menu is in English and the accommodating, mostly English speaking staff will help you make the right selection. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PALVGBS

Odesa In Your Pocket

Restaurants Odesa has always been a haven for gourmets (even during poor old Soviet times), but the boom in quality and diversity that has taken place over the past decade is unprecedented. The infusion of new cuisine into an already ethnically rich culinary tradition resulted in an impressive range of options including American, French, Jewish, Mexican, Greek, Italian, Spanish, Asian, Ukrainian, MiddleEastern and more. In the historic centre, you‘re never more than a couple steps away from your next dining experience. Odesa‘s proximately to the sea means culinary utopia for fish lovers. With so many establishments to choose from, we hope that our guide serves as the solution to what can be an overwhelming question: What‘s for dinner?

Kobe G-2, Lanzheronivs‘ka 9, tel. (+380) 48 726 98 06, www.kobe.odessa.ua. Authentic Japanese food located right in front of the Opera. The design is traditional Japanese which has won major prizes. The food is cooked by the chef right at the table. Only fresh and natural products are used. The specialty we tried was the delicious “Kobe Beef” accompanied by one of their famous handmade desserts. English menu with reasonable prices. There is a beautiful aquarium and children‘s corner. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. PTALVGBSW Tito G-2, Rishelievska 5, tel. (+380) 482 33 80 89, www. tito.od.ua. This is a lovely addition to the Odesa restaurant scene. Located near the centre, it‘s easy to find as a giant Buddha sits in the window. We wisely chose not to sit directly behind it. There is real Japanese food not just Sushi! There is also European food and the menu is in English. An average menu will run you about 250Hr. Live music is preformed every Friday and Saturday from 20:00. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGVEW Yokohama F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 26, tel. (+380) 482 35 66 00, www.yokohama.net.ua. Specialising in Japanese with a little spicy Thai mixed in, Yokohama‘s prime location on Deribasivska will keep you put long after you‘ve demolished the satisfying grub. The cool atmosphere, superb service and comfy outdoor seating will have you coming back for all your sushi cravings. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PA6GBSW

European 19.53 Café H-7, Shevchenko prosp. 17, tel. (+380) 48

268 29 39. Just outside the centre but easy to get to is this nice café-restaurant with a jazz club theme - a modern jazz type design. They serve great food around the clock. In the morning there is breakfast till 11:00 which includes a free 2nd cup of coffee. The limited menu - in English - is European cuisine and pretty good. We really enjoyed the rack of lamb with kiwi sauce for 110Hr. An average complete meal here will run you about 250Hr. There is seating for 40 inside and another 60 when the terrace is open. They have live jazz every Thursday and on special occasions. QOpen 24hrs. PAGBSW

Akvarel Soniachna 5, tel. (+380) 48 785 08 96/(+380) 67 515 11 78, www.akvarel.org.ua. Fancy great grilled meat? While not in the centre, this is a great place to eat. The menu is in English and the cuisine is European, with lots of grilled dishes to choose from. We got the grilled veal with Roquefort cheese sauce - quite tasty! An average meal goes for 200Hr, and they also have a great wine list. There is seating for 100+ and they do banquets and conferences. All in all, it‘s well worth the visit. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAGBSW odesa.inyourpocket.com

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Restaurants Odessian Café Farshmak Pastera 46, tel. (+380) 67 511 77 88. This quaint eatery is named after the traditional dish of herring fillet mixed with apple and boiled eggs. They specialise in Odesa cuisine and a majority of the food used is grown or produced is Ukraine. They also serve many tasty varieties of pelmeni and verenyky. An average meal here will cost you around 175 Hr. Weekdays between 12:3016:30 is a business lunch that changes daily for just 47Hr. It is a complete meal and very artistically served. All spoke English and were extremely helpful. For your dining pleasure there is live violin music nightly from 19:00-22:00. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PAGBSW Compot F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 20, tel. (+380) 48 728 77 75, www.compot.ua. Compot is a beloved traditional Ukrainian beverage with a simple recipe: take some fruit, add water, boil it down, don‘t forget to sweeten and whala… you‘ve just created a tasty refreshment. The café embodies the recipe in that it‘s simple, delicious and has a very sweet location right in middle of Deribasivs‘ka vul. A popular coffee and sandwich hangout for local youths, exciting specials are on offer from 9:00 - 12:00. Also at F-5, Panteleimonivs‘ka 70, tel. (+380) 482 34 51 45. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PTAGBXSW Dacha Frantsuz‘kyiv bul‘v. 85/15, tel. (+380) 48 714 31 19, www.dacha.com.ua. Like being at a Russian style dacha. This is a unique opportunity not to be missed. Situated in a colonial mansion with beautiful gardens. There is smoking and non-smoking sections and a supervised children‘s area. The walls are white washed with wooden floors and the bathrooms are cast iron. The menus are hand written in English and moderately priced. The gardens are lovely and spacious with a fountain. There is seating for over 150. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTA6ILGBXSW Jazzy Buzzy H-4, Uspens‘ka 19, tel. (+380) 48 784 53 46, 777 72 71, www.jazzy-buzzy.ua. Quite an interesting place with good - round the clock - food. There is seating for 60+ with non-smoking on the terraces. The staff was great and spoke some English. Their specialty is “old Odesa” cuisine - everything is fresh and natural. And yes, they also have a sushi menu. An average meal costs around 200-300Hr per person and its well worth it! There is a great barbeque menu as well as a breakfast menu served from 07:00-10:00. Every night there is live music and it varies; jazz, funk, Latin, etc. QOpen 24hrs. PAEGBW Klarabara F-2, The City Garden, tel. (+380) 48 741 33 31, www.klarabara.com. Smack dab in the centre is this lovely ivy covered café. Frilled with antique furniture and always different paintings and photographs on display in the ‘roving‘ art gallery. Reasonably priced with European, Odesa style food and a Mediterranean grill. There is a spacious terrace for eating right in the park. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PGBW

Greek Papa Costa G-3, Hrets‘ka 17, tel. (+380) 48 738

48 48. This is the best Greek in town. From the Greek salads to the live lobster and catch of the day to the homemade sausages and ice-cream, freshness is priority No. 1. Papa will have you caressing your belly in satisfaction and licking your chops for more. The private terrace is a classy touch. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PTA6UILVEGBSW

Odesa In Your Pocket

Restaurants Alkhimia F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 8, tel. (+380) 48 772 71 48. Alkhimia really surprised us! It is located near the Opera and at first sight, it seems like a nice little - very casual cafe. Yet it is some of the best food we have tasted in quite awhile. We had the spinach salad for starters - with giant slices of parmesan - not graded as in most places. There is a limited menu of European cuisine with the dishes ranging from 5080Hr for full portions. There are half portions available for all dishes at about 60% of the full price - and they are immense! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGBSW Angleter Club F-3, Oleksandrivskyi prosp. 8/10, tel. (+ 380) 48 795 00 90, www.angleterre.com.ua. Just a stone‘s throw from the centre it is spacious and relaxing, seating 120 with a classical design and fireplace. There is lovely lounge music and a DJ Friday and Saturday from 20:00-23:00. The food is great, European and Sushi menus in English and a warm staff! The prices are very reasonable with a complete meal averaging around 200Hr. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PAGBSW Boulevard E-2, Katerynynska pl. 1, tel. (+380) 48 777 03 39, en.bulvar-odessa.com. The combination of climbing Potyomkin Stairs and the fresh sea breeze can really kick start the appetite. Could it be a conspiracy or is it just fortuitous that this exquisite European restaurant is located just steps away from the statue of Duc de Richelieu? Famous for its seafood, soups and its simple but romantic ambiance, Boulevard‘s popularity is easy to justify. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTAEGBSW Mozart G-2, Lanzheronivska 13, tel. (+380) 482 37 77 77, www.mozart-hotel.com. Located just opposite the opera, this gorgeous restaurant is in the lovely, classical Mozart Hotel. The interior seems to transport one back to the time of Mozart; in fact the many flat screen TV‘s seemed out of place. (Was Wolfie really a Man-United fan?) The cuisine is European/Ukrainian and there is a real French chef. One of their specialties is the “Black Sea fish”, and an average meal costs around 250Hr. There is a business lunch for groups costing 150Hr. It seats 80, with room for banquets. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PAGSW Park Residense Frantsuz‘kyi bul‘var 85, tel. (+380)

48 780 03 00, www.park.od.ua. At first we thought we were in a tennis club. It‘s really a great restaurant with Thai, Japanese, and European cuisine. An average meal will cost around 500Hr. There are lots of extras. Aside from the tennis courts, don‘t forget your bathing suit as there is a full size swimming pool. A great way to spice up (or cool down) your private party here. There is also a kid‘s playground and seating for 200 inside and hundreds more outside. There is also karaoke every night from 21:00-01:00. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. PAGBSW

Pivnoy Sad F-2, Havanna 6, tel. (+380) 48 777 88 88,

www.pivnoysad.com.ua. The perfect place to bask in a mellow mood while sipping a cold brewsky and nibbling on something tasty. The beer is as fresh as it gets - they brew their own German style lagers and ales on site. The menu is simple but delicious. Listen to live music (Thursday - Sunday) while enjoying the romantic views of The City Garden. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 24:00. PAVEGBSW Varadero I-5, Lidersovskyi bulvar 17, tel. (+380) 482 37 34 06, www.varadero.od.ua. A great eatery with an English menu and tasty European cuisine. It seats 60+ and there is a terrace for warm weather. We still haven‘t figured out why they don‘t have a non-smoking area. We tried the veal steak with cream sauce and grilled lamb ribs-both superb! An average meal runs about 200-300Hr per person and they have many great deserts to choose from. QOpen 09:30 - 00:30. PABW

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French Café Sophie F-1, Nekrasova prov. 7, tel. (+380) 48 737

55 52. Cosy and stylish restaurant is located on the first floor of the Frederic Koklen Hotel. If you‘re an early bird this place is just for you - breakfast are serving from 07:30. However it‘s highly recommended to come here in the evening also, when live piano music, candlelight and delicate dishes will make your evening relaxing. The menu offers European, French and authentic Odessian cuisine. There is also a huge selection of wine and deserts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PALGW

Georgian Cha Cha I-5, Lermontovskyi prov. 2A, tel. (+380) 48

702 22 28, cha-cha.com.ua. We also thought it was a Latino type place - not at all! It is a Caucasian restaurant located just behind the Hotel Lermontovsky in the green area of Odesa near a beach. Cha Cha is the name of the process used to distill wine into a type of schnapps through this funny little machine they have there. The building is round with a “rustic” design and seats around 50. Outside there is a lovely terrace with seating for just as many plus a large play area for children. The menu - in English - is filled with Caucasian goodies. A complete average meal will run between 250-300Hr. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGBSW Khizhina Dovzhenka 3/5, tel. (+380) 48 787 01 37, www.hijina.com.ua. Don‘t have time to visit Georgia? Stop by Khizhina for authentic Georgian food. The décor is, well Georgian of course and the servers all wear cute little costumes and are quite charming themselves, though they could use some English lessons. This is the sister of another Khizhina that is located near the airport. The menu is not in English so it‘s a bit of a struggle, but prices are reasonable-from 200-300Hr per person. They have great barbequed stuff as well as traditional Georgian dishes. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGBSWB Batumi F-3, Hretska 35, tel. (+380) 48 701 12 06. Named after the famous Georgian resort - Batumi. It‘s a nice place in the centre, where feels no longer in Ukraine, but in Georgia, complete with Georgian TV. The staff is warm and friendly and tries to speak some English as does their menu. Great Georgian menu with affordable prices. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00 PAVGBSW

Indian Kamasutra G-3, Bunina 19, tel. (+380) 48 735 77 66,

kamasutra.od.ua. Upstairs it is an elegant Indian restaurant complete with Bollywood films playing nonstop. The servers speak fluent English and all wear cute Indian costumes which really add to the atmosphere. The menu is both Indian and European, with an average meal running at least 300Hr. There is seating for 70 plus a VIP room. They do lots of banquets and private parties so it is good to call in advance to make sure they are open. Downstairs is a night club which is quite modern and offers the same great food but with a limited menu. Kamabar Night club works on Mon, Fri, Sat 22:0010:00. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PALGSW

International Bazilic G-3, Deribasivs‘ka 1, tel. (+380) 48 723 13 23,

www.bazilic.com.ua. This is the most obvious launching point for travellers looking to explore Deribasivs‘ka vul. Start by paying homage at the statue of adored city founder Jose de Ribas, and then hop across the street for a quiet lunch or dinner. This French bistro offers wonderful lunch specials, a loaded dinner men, chic interior, live music and tranquil outdoor seating during the summer season. Also at Havanna 2, tel (+380) 48 777 07 06. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PALVGBSW

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Self-service While the West may have its fast-food chains, we here in the East have something far better: self-service restaurants. These low budget marvels offer a wide variety of fresh, boiled, fried and baked dishes all laid out before the client ready to be mixed and matched. It may not be sophisticated, but it is cheap and cheerful and the food‘s surprisingly good. Lafka Café F-2, Lanzheronivska 24, tel. (+380) 67 701 35 37. A great low priced eatery right in the centre. It is huge, seating 200, and the staff speaks English quite well. Most prefer the self-service with a complete meal costing around 40-50Hr, but there is service available if one is willing to pay a bit more. It is typical Ukrainian cuisine with lots of seafood available. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Puzata Khata F-2, Deribasivska 21. Albeit a low budget, family friendly, the Puzata Khata located on the sixth floor of the Europa shopping centre (Deribasivs‘ka 21) offers one of the most exhilarating views of the historic city centre. All restaurants in this chain offer a satisfying selection of traditional Ukrainian dishes. The interiors are inventive and usually combine a 19th century theme with a touch of local flare. Fill the belly for only a few bucks! QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PAGS

Jewish Hevron F-4, Rishelievs‘ka 30, tel. (+380) 48 715

03 74. Located under the Great Choral synagogue in the heart of Odesa. Great affordable kosher food, with seating for 80. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. P

Rozmarin G-5, Mala Arnautska 46A, tel. (+380) 482 34 46 44/(+390) 482 34 73 11, www.rosemarinoodessa.ua. This kosher restaurant is located between the Centre and the train station. The decor is simple seaside and the prices moderate. Special Israeli style dishes are served. Very friendly staff with some English spoken. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. MamaCasalla G-7, Matrosova prov. 1, tel. (+380) 482 399 77 71, www.mamacasalla.com. A spacious restaurant a bit out of the centre, but well worth the visit! You will be greeted by some of the most beautiful fish you have ever seen! There is something happening every evening from 20:30. Hen parties, charades, children‘s parties and much more; including a Disco every Friday and Saturday. The cuisine is a combination of Odessian, European, Italian, and Mediterranean. (With a sushi menu thrown in for good measure.) An average menu runs about 150-200Hr with wine. There is a great business lunch weekdays from 12:00-16:00. It‘s just 60Hr and there is a 20% discount off the main menu as well. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. TEW Pecheskago F-2, Havanna 10/12, tel. (+380) 48 726 09 79, www.pecheskago.od.ua. Pecheskago gets our pick for the most enchanting dining experience. Throughout the winter, enjoy the view of City Park wrapped inside a domed glass enclosure. The dome comes off in the summer to reveal a terrace perfect for an exclusive outdoor dining experience. Enjoy inventive arrangements of local and European favourites such as Château Bryon and Black Sea flounder. Don‘t forget to take a fat wallet. It‘s not that menu items are over the top price wise, but the vibes have a way of keeping you in your seat ordering more. Live music every night during the summer season and Thursday - Sunday during the colder months. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PALGBSW 2013

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Restaurants Italian Italian Kvartal F-3, Zhukovskoho 31, tel. (+380) 48

785 20 73, www.pizza-kvartal.com. An Italian restaurant, part of a local chain. It is something like a small museum, with many lovely items on display. The design is very impressive! The menu is authentic Italian with quite reasonable prices. You won‘t be disappointed. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PAGBW Soldi Trattoria H-3, Hrets‘ka 1A, tel. (+380) 48 784 01 51/(+380) 48 772 79 40, www.trattoria-soldi.com.ua. It is a nice little walk from the centre but well worth it if you are looking for authentic Italian cuisine. The décor reminded us of being in Italy with a nice homey atmosphere. The staff is quite friendly and easy to communicate with. The menu has a wide range of Italian dishes and pizzas run about 85Hr. An average meal is about 300Hr. We had the Chateaubriand steak with mixed roast veggies and were quite happy with it! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PABGW Tavernetta F-4, Katerynynska 45, tel. (+380) 0482 34 46 21, www.tavernetta.ua. Tavernetta is a lovely provincial Italian restaurant in the heart of Odesa. A great place for pasta lovers! In Tavernetta‘s menu you will find the kind of dishes that a simple Italian housewife loves to cook for her family. The flour, olive oil, cheese, capers, anchovies are Italian. All other ingredients are the best Ukrainian products available. Tavernetta suggests you start your day with a good Italian espresso and a panini sandwich. The prices are quite reasonable, and there is also a shop where one can purchase food, wine, and culinary souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. TAULEGBSW Zucchini Pizzeria H-7, Oleksandra Matrosova prov. 1, tel. (380) 48 785 78 50, zucchini.od.ua. Odesa, if you desire for a fancy a pizza, head south from the centre and here is the place. The pizza aroma nearly knocked us over. There is a wide range of pizzas from 45-85Hr. There is much more; soup, salads, fish, and meat dishes-all at very reasonable prices. One can get a good 300 gm steak for just 87Hr. It has a trendy-modern design and seats 60. The staff is friendlygreat at English, which helps as there is no English menu-but some nice pictures. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PABGW

Mediterranean Bernardazzi G-3, Bunina 15, tel. (+380) 48 785 55 85,

www.bernardazzi.od.ua. This unique restaurant is located in the famous Odesa landmark building “The New Stock Exchange”. It was designed by the famous Russian architect Alexander Bernardazzi and built in the 1890‘s. It is now home to the Odesa Philharmonic. The cuisine is Mediterranean, Odesa flavour, and a Japanese menu, available in English and reasonably priced. The inside holds up to 150 and in the summer there is a Renaissance style summer patio. There are regular concerts, parties and cultural events. This place is definitely worth a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PALEGW Di Mare F-1, Prymors‘ka 6, tel. (+380) 48 729 47 70/ (+380) 67 489 63 61, www.dimare.od.ua. Easy to find if you do not look for street signs and numbers or ask anyone for directions. Just look for the giant Hotel Odessa on a pier in the port-you cannot miss it. Go past the hotel to the very end-to the water and you will find the restaurant on the right side. Sea food is, of course, the specialty, and you can get along fine here with only English. We tried the grilled sea bass for just 50Hr per 100 g and it tasted as if just came off a boat. There is also a lovely breakfast from 10:00-11:00. The atmosphere is warm and cosy - a maritime type design with beautiful wooden models of sailing ships. There is seating for 60 and more outside when the weather permits. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PALGW

Odesa In Your Pocket

Restaurants Porto F-3, Zhukovs‘koho 33, tel. (+380) 48 737 38 38.

Porto prides itself on offering Odesa‘s freshest selection of seafood from the Black Sea and Mediterranean. The ambiance is modestly elegant, but prices aren‘t too over the top making this a must for fish lovers rich and poor. However, the price on many fish items is listed per 100 grams; ask your server the approximate size of your selection in order to cut down on confusion when receiving the bill. The method of preparation is up to you, items may be sautéed, steam boiled or grilled. The menu also pulsates with a variety of fresh salads, pasta dishes, fresh squeezed juices, etc. They stage occasional live music and showings of Chornomorets football games. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PTABSW

UNIQUE DINING

Russian

EXPERIENCE

Aleksandrovskiy H-5, Bielinskoho 13, tel. (+380) 48

725 11 11, www.aleksandrovskiy.com.ua. Housed in a mansion built at the time of Russian Emperor Alexander II and was a haven for musicians and art lovers. It was owned by the famous Odesa merchant Joseph Konelskiy, philanthropist and collector. There are VIP tours available. We saw beautiful paintings and collections of crystal and porcelain on display. There is a wine cellar and “cigar room”. Handmade cigars were a specialty of the past and still available. The cuisine is Russian and French. There is an English menu and someone there to speak all major languages. Prices are moderate to pricy. We tried the Cutlet Alekandrovskaya which was fantastic. Like eating in a museum! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAGW

Italian chef Wine room Children’s room Summer terrace Hretska Street 17, Odessa

Uzbek

+38 048 738 48 48

Ayva F-4, Rishel‘ievs‘ka 27, tel. (+380) 48 236 47 80,

fb.com/fratelli.odessa

aiva.com.ua. A combination Uzbek/Sushi restaurant almost in the centre. It has distinct designs; downstairs it is Japanese and upstairs, Uzbek. The place seats 85 and banquets are often held. The staff is super helpful and spoke English well the menu is in Russian but with beautiful pictures to help you. We found the prices quite reasonable. We had the Shourpa lamb (soup) with potatoes, carrots, and bell peppers - a real treat for just 45Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. PAGBSW

Steakhouse Barb ecoa Modern Steakhouse & Bar F-2,

Deribasivs‘ka 12, tel. (+380) 48 737 57 07. A recent addition to the food scene is this giant steakhouse. There is seating for 150 on the three floors of this modern spacious restaurant. But it is not just a steakhouse - they have European, Asian, and Indian dishes on the menu available in English. The steaks are USA Black Angus meat and range from 98-140Hr. per 100 gm - really tasty! Everyone was super friendly and spoke English quite well! QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PAGBSW

Turkish Bosfor G-5, Kanatna 68, tel. (+380) 48 728 10 97. It

may seem a bit out of the way, but is you want really good Turkish food and very reasonable prices, then the Bosfor is the place for you! The cuisine is authentic Turkish with real Turkish chefs. The menu is in Russian but they speak English ok. A great meal can be had for 100-150Hr. QOpen 10:00 24:00. PAGSW Laila F-3, Katerynyns‘ka 18, tel. (+380) 48 724 45 25, laila.od.ua. In the daytime, it is basically a Turkish restaurant. There are genuine Turkish dishes at reasonable prices and a Business lunch for 60Hr. The menu is not in English but no problems as they all speak it. From 22:00 it turns into a nightclub. On Friday and Saturday there are go-go dancers and the crowd can get up to 300. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. PAGSW

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Ukrainian Khutorok u Morya I-4, Shevchenko‘s Park, Lanzheron Beach, tel. (+380) 48 735 38 73, w w w. xutor-ok.com. The restaurant offers tribute in the form of a menu loaded with traditional Ukrainian cuisine. With an unmatched setting on the edge of Taras Shevchenko Park near Lanzheron Beach, this is an extremely popular summer destination and is a wonderful place for travellers to acquaint themselves with traditional local cuisine. Live Ukrainian folk music, a children‘s playground and proximately to summer attractions makes this a top pick for families. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTA6LVEBSW

Kumanets F-2, Havanna 7, tel. (+380) 482 37 69 46. We took a couple visiting from America to Kumanets. An Idaho farm boy and a butcher‘s daughter from California‘s cattle country, our friends are used to the finest, freshest, tastiest cuts of meat. Dishes at this Ukrainian themed eatery rip will flavour: we knew our guests wouldn‘t be disappointed. Indeed, this was the culinary highlight of their trip. The pork dishes drip with succulence and the hearty soups are meals in themselves. Ukrainian tradition requires that diners throw back a shot of samohon (homemade vodka) to stimulate appetite before indulging. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTAGBS Pechki da Lavochki E-5, Mala Arnautska 109, tel. (+380) 48 722 18 48. The name derives from a special Ukrainian dish, baked chicken with garlic. The design is unique, like being transported to a Ukrainian village. The Ukrainian menu is moderately priced and filled with specialties. There is also a very completive sushi menu with pictures. So if you don‘t speak Russian, bring a translator or order Sushi. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PGB

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Ukrainska Lasunka F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 17, tel. (+380)

48 725 84 12, www.lakomka.com.ua. With such a vibrant 19th century Ukrainian village atmosphere it‘s easy to imagine what it must have been like to dine at Taras Shevchenko‘s cottage, and the menu (in English) doesn‘t miss a dish from babushka‘s cookbook. It‘s to your advantage to be a bit loud yet jovial as the wait staff is either very busy or busy being lethargic. This technique works in drawing attention in a good way. Not surprising for a city by the sea, they have an extensive seafood selection. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAEGSW Home preserves shop & cafe Zakroma F-2, Havanna 11, tel. (380) 48 728 29 72. A great place to shop and eat right by the City Gardens. There is shelf after shelf of all kinds of home-made Ukrainian goodies: fruits and veggies, meats and sauces, wine and juice, etc. While it is a store - it is also a cafe with room for nearly 30. There is a great limited menu with Ukrainian specialities costing about 150Hr. for an average meal. We had the potatoes with pork on parchment paper and aubergines for just 58Hr. For a drink we had one of their delicious herbal teas with berries. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri-Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PAGS

Spanish Sevilla G-3, Bunina 16, tel. (+380) 482 32 10 32,

www.sevilla.od.ua. ¡Viva España! Not far from the centre, is an authentic Spanish restaurant. There is an English menu and the staff is very friendly and speaks English. There are many tasty dishes with paella being one of their specialties. An average meal costs circa 250Hr. Weekends bring you live music with Flamenco dancing performed on Saturday‘s. It‘s worth going just for the show! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PTAGB

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Nightlife Cafés Apelsin White F-4, Oleksandrivs‘kyi prosp. 20, tel.

(+380) 48 777 95 92, www.apelsin.od.ua. A very quaint/ cute type of place - kind of a vintage design, yet the orange reflects a bit of art deco. There is limited menu-in English with tasty hot snacks, burgers, and steaks. The average price for a good size meal is only about 100Hr. They make their own cakes and pastries so do not miss out on desert. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:30 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PALGBSW Belleville Café H-7, Shevchenka prosp. 8/3, tel. (+380) 48 757 85 57. It is a nice little cafe with seating for 45. It is easy to reach and one cannot help but feel the warm and friendly atmosphere. They have a nice little menu in English - featuring Odesa/European cuisine. One house speciality is the wide variety of creeps - very well priced. An average complete meal here will cost around 150Hr. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PALGBSW Bellini Lounge Dance Café Deribasivs‘ka 22, tel. (+380) 48 706 06 66, www.belliniodessa.od.ua. This is one of a trio of “Lounge Dance Cafe‘s” in Odesa. The others are at Rishelyevska 64 (F-5) and Hlushko 22. From May to October all the cafes open the summer terraces, each of which is unique. The summer terrace of Bellini on Hlushko Street has a children‘s playground with animator and special kid‘s menu; Bellini on Rishelievska Street has the only summer roof terrace in Odesa. Bellini on Deribasivska Street has largest summer terrace in the chain plus karaoke every night from 20:00. The Menu is European and there is a sushi menu as well - all in English. An average meal will run around 300Hr or more if a steak is ordered. There is a breakfast menu and a weekday lunchtime special - 40% off. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. PALGBSW Bunin F-3, Bunina 29, tel. (+380) 482 34 58 51. Although this café is a trend follower rather than a setter (i.e. Fashion TV, sushi, DJs) it‘s designed with some real class and is worth checking out. A tasty selection of soups, salads, pasta, steaks and grilled meats are on hand. DJ sets add some flavour Friday and Saturday, and a saxophonist entertains every Sunday. The stylish yet relaxing ambiance affirms Bunin‘s motto: „It‘s not important where you work...it‘s important where you rest.“ QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PALGBSW Café Graf F-2, Sabaneiv Mist 4, tel. (+380) 48 701 31 42/(+380) 48 700 15 15, graf.odessa.ua. From the 1st of May till the end of September this is one of Odesa‘s most popular garden cafes with seating for over 70. The cuisine is Odesa/European with an average meal costing around 200Hr. The liver with nuts and grilled apple for just 50Hr is a great treat. In the off season there is room inside for about 20. Banquets can be arranged there or elsewhere through their events and catering service “Confetti”. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PALGBSW Fanconi 1872 F-2, Katerynyns‘ka 15/17, tel. (+380) 482 34 66 66, www.fanconi1872.od.ua. Fanconi was established in 1872 making it Odesa‘s oldest café. That said, there is very little linking this famed café to its noteworthy past: disappointing for those hoping to sneak a peak into Odesa‘s history, exciting for locals craving only those things glitzy, fashionable and new. Perhaps the only features to have remained constant throughout its history are the scrumptious desserts. Sushi is the craze these days and Fanconi has not merely jumped onto the Japanese bandwagon, but is apparently steering it. They offer an ample selection of sushi and the karaoke lounge kicks off nightly at 20:00. Other mentionables include fantastic terrace seating on a more or less quiet intersection and a modish energetic crowd. QOpen 24hrs. PALBSW Franzol F-2, Deribasivska 22a, tel. (+380) 482 34 10 44, www.franzol.com.ua. Originally known as the pavilion of „Artesian mineral waters“ founded back in 1826 by imperial decree. It is located in the City Garden and has been

Odesa In Your Pocket

Nightlife restored according to the original drawings. Today, Franzol Cafe combines all that the pearl of the sea has acquired over many years. One gets the feeling of being a real citizen of Odesa. The cuisine is Ukrainian/European, and the menu is in English. An average meal will run around 150-200Hr. and there are oodles of discounts available; take away - 15%, breakfast menu before 10:00, 10%, family discount,10%, birthday discount,20%, and a Monday discount, (after 16:00) 10%. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAUEGBXSW Maner (Манеръ) E-2, Soborna pl. 4, tel. (+380) 48 731 57 77. A gigantic Hugh Jackman gawked at us with his trademark smirk from across the room as we sipped our tasty tea. Maner falls into the category we like to call Odesian chic. Fancy draperies, uncomfortable comfortable-looking chairs, two turn tables, sushi, hookah, etc. The menu is eclectic enough to satisfy all in your party with the most note worthy items being the iced coffees (latte, mochachino and frappuccino) a rarity for this part of the world. No English menu but the staff is fluent. This is more of a meet-up-before-clubbing joint, rather than a morning coffee place. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PAILW Marrakesh H-5, Bazarna 19, tel. (+380) 48 737 35 86. You‘ll have to wade through a mix mash of Ukrainian, American and Italian dishes to find anything associated with Marrakesh; on the other hand, the menu does offer something for all tastes. We gave up on ordering Moroccan and went for the borsht, peppered steak (quite tasty) and mashed potatoes instead. The price was right and the shade and sea breeze on the terrace was just what the doctor ordered. Great daily, breakfast and business lunch specials are available. Get two cocktails for the price of one from 21:00 - 22:00. QOpen 24hrs. PVBSW Paradnaya No 1 E-3, Soborna pl. 1, tel. (+380) 48 702 73 94/(+380) 48 716 53 93. The indoor seating is incredibly homey. It‘s like sitting down for a meal at your aunt‘s house. Everything about the atmosphere is familiar: from the comfy stripe-pattern sofa to the cockatoo chirping in the corner. Out front you‘ll find a small but popular patio. The menu offers a robust selection of salads, traditional soups and tasty meat and fish dishes. Those dishes with familiar western names are actually bastardized versions of the real thing. The “Caesar” salad, for example, consists of chopped cucumbers, tomatoes, cheddar cheese, smoked ham, croutons, boiled quail eggs and mayonnaise. Where they found this recipe is anyone‘s guess. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTAEGSW Profitroli Café Confectionery G-3, Bunina 17, tel. (+380) 48 785 85 86. Calling all cheesecake lovers! This is a great little café with a modern, yet classic style. It is close to the centre and there are lots of home - made cakes, pastries, and several cheese cakes to choose from. The staff is friendly, speaks English and will make you feel at home. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. iTVBS Shef Café G-2, Hrets‘ka 19, tel. (+380) 48 728 77 55, www.shefcafe.com. Lovely, bright simple design, with friendly staff and English menu. Traditional Odesa cuisine and a European breakfast menu. We tried the house specialty, ‘herring forshmark”, herring with potatoes - delicious! There are homemade drinks, sports TV, and Disco music on Saturday and Sunday. There is outside seating in the Summer, and best of all its round the clock service. QOpen 24 hrs. PAGW Sherlock G-3, Pol‘s‘ka 14, tel. (+380) 482 49 67 14/ (+380) 482 32 12 00. The entrance to this British (no sh** Sherlock) theme café is actually on Bunina. Many of the dishes have extremely vivid names, i.e. “Stubborn Billy Salad”, “don‘t teach your grandmother to suck eggs” breakfast and “salmon in two sauces” (so what if the name of the salmon dish isn‘t witty, it certainly is delicious). Their specialties come from the grill with the sturgeon shashlyk topping the list. Attentive charming service and the comfortable setting make this a great choice for afternoon tea or a couple pints with your mates. QOpen 09:30 - 02:00. PTAUIVEGBSW

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Bars & Pubs Corvin F-2, Lanzheronivs‘ka 17, tel. (+380) 482 33 88

00, www.corvin.ua. A whisky club, pub and restaurant, Corvin has all Irish bases covered. The pub is located on the second floor and offers a plethora of imports (Murphy‘s, Leffe, Paulander, Newcastle, etc.) and all blends of whisky. Sitting at the bar and swapping stories with the bar tender are encouraged. The elegant restaurant on the second floor has a more exotic menu than its rowdier, rougher around the edges counterpart on the third floor. Both restaurants offer up fresh and authentic fare such as rack of lamb, pork steak and chips, Scottish fish pie, homemade sausages, etc. Corvin‘s main attraction is its unbelievable whisky club. With more than 800 different whiskies on hand from all over the world, it‘s impossible not to revel in this quiet niche sip on something rare, toke a savoury cigar and enjoy. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. PAVEGBSW Diysno Dobre Pyvo F-3, Zhukovs‘koho 23, tel. (+380) 482 35 57 59. Diysno is a laid-back neighbourhood pub/ restaurant where locals come to suck the guts out of tasty signature shrimp dishes and pound Ukrainian brew (eight varieties on tap). The atmosphere is cosy and the staff is friendly, but a bit lacking in English ability. The menu (in Russian only) offers an ample selection of traditional salads and soups and reasonably priced steaks and other meat dishes. This is a popular stop for boisterous football fans with local games regularly scheduled for viewing. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PS Gambrinus F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 31, tel. (+380) 48 726 36 57. Gambrinus is not only the name of the unofficial patron saint of beer brewing, but also that of the outstanding local brew that flows in delicious torrents from this establishment‘s taps. While many pubs shun Odesa‘s roots, this fine watering hole embraces them with a big Popeye the Sailorman‘s hug. The cavernous upside down hull adorned with mementos from the sea puts one in the mood to set sail, but before you do be sure and sample the pork leg in sauce or the Gambrinus special (dorado with peppers and onions in a mint almond sauce). Live music is staged just about every night. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PEBS Glasgow E-4, Uspens‘ka 95, London Hotel, tel. (+380) 48 784 53 76, www.london-hotel.com.ua. Q: What does a Scotsman/Irishman/Ukrainian wear under his kilt? A: Lipstick. The extremely courteous bartender at Glasgow, a quiet pub located in the lobby of Hotel London, proudly sports a kilt. Known for its scrumptious cakes, inventive cocktails and “real” English tea, this pub has the remedy for the British homesick blues. QOpen 24hrs. PALGW Habibi Hookak Bar H-3, Hrets‘ka pl. 1, tel. (+38 0) 48 770 73 73, www.habibi.ua. Just a stone‘s throw from the main drag is this lovely smoking oasis. One can sit in a tent like booth and chose from one of many different tobaccos. It is also a pretty descent restaurant as well! The cuisine is European with a Middle Eastern flavour and very reasonable prices. We enjoyed the fillet chicken with mushrooms and tomatoes for just 59Hr. There are TV screens in every tent for watching your favourite football games. The staff spoke great English and really made us feel at home. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Kavanakh Murphy‘s Irish Pub G-2, Mytna pl. 1A, tel. (+380) 48 738 45 45. Great lamb dishes highlight a bountiful selection of Irish favourites. The fish lover in your group will snap to attention as he or she discovers the menu‘s fabulous fresh from the mark section. Murphy‘s boasts a relatively wide selection of brew on tap including Guinness (of course) along with other European and local favourites. If you‘re going for a game, get there early as seating with a TV view is limited. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€€. PALVEBS

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Editor’s tip Take the city’s raving locals, mix them with adventurous foreigners and infuse maniacal vacationers and you’ve just created the most beautiful concoction of partiers anywhere in Ukraine. Venturing out, you’re sure to find Odesa’s scene charged as the pubs and clubs convulse with the kind of lust that cries out for just one more night. The highest concentration of clubs is along the shore with most pubs and bars dotting an already rich entertainment landscape in the historic centre. With the help of the overtly friendly locals, it’s easy to get carried away - please party responsibly.

Mickey O‘Neil‘s Irish Pub F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 13, tel.

(+380) 48 721 53 33, www.ipub.com.ua. O‘Neil‘s is extremely popular with expats, and for good reason: familiar food. The pub sits like an alluring emerald on the end of Deribasivs‘ka vul. This is a must visit for breakfast lovers and is one of only a few sports viewing venues in the city. The pool table‘s smack dab in the middle of the pub - right where it‘s supposed to be. Excellent English speaking staff ensures minimal confusion. This is an always welcoming oasis in what can sometimes be a foreigner hostile environment. QOpen 24hrs. PTALVEBSW Pivnaya Bochka (Beer Barrel) F-5, Pushkins‘ka 76, tel. (+380) 48 722 43 62. The sign out font read the „the beer barrel: loads of delicious dishes inside“. The dishes are delicious and the beer is cheap and tasty. Being a popular hang-out for locals, the service is tuned to a different frequency than what is standard in the West. Don‘t take this the wrong way, the service isn‘t bad, but don‘t expect the server to anticipate your needs/wants. You must master the art of getting their attention. To do this, confidently and clearly say “devushka” if your server is female or “muschina” if your server is male. QOpen 09:30 24:00. PGS Skipper Pub E-5, Zaslavs‘koho 27, tel. (+380) 482 33 55 07. Skipper abides by local customs when it comes to service. This may be unchartered waters for greenhorn westerners. Its popularity among Odesians is due in large part to the availability of tradition beer munchies such as krevetki (shrimp), calamari and the dried fish that hangs from stringers above the bar like sinister Christmas decorations. The location, out of the way in a dimly lit neighbourhood, is far from ideal. On the bright side, it‘s a passable joint for sports viewing and you get to fawn over local waitresses who prance about in sailor costumes. Also at vul. Torhova 51. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PBS

Clubs Captain Morgan F-3, Zhukovs‘koho 30, tel. (+380) 48 728 84 82, www.morgan-club.com.ua. Popular with locals and expats alike, Captain Morgan‘s proudly encourages lewd and wild behavior including shots, table dancing and blatant flirtations with the opposite sex. What else would you expect from joint that displays a banner that reads „drink and dance“? A DJ spins atop the bar and all unconsciously convulse to the rhythm. This place is infectious, in a good way. The only drawback is the 50Hr admission fee, but that‘s chump change when you consider the good times you‘ll have. The kitchen whips up first-rate food (menu in English), and servers speak some English. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00. Admission 50 - 70Hr. PAW Dikiy Koyot F-2, Chaikovs‘koho prov. 18, tel. (+380) 48 722 17 18. Do you like models? Do you like models in lingerie? Do you like models in lingerie dancing on top of the bar? If your answer was yes to one or more of the questions 2013

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What to see

Nightlife In Your Pocket Mobile

In Your Pocket is now available on all smarthpones via our new responsive mobile platform, found at m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable resource which puts our unrivalled content together with the technical capabilities of today’s smartphones. In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest to your current location. Smart filters can be used to ensure that only those places which matter to you are displayed. You can also leave comments about venues, as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You can even share your comments with your friends via the most popular social networks. Point your phone’s web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now.

inyourpocket.com: One of the Best

The UK newspaper The Independent recently published a list of the best 50 travel websites on the internet: inyourpocket.com was the third name on the list. This is what the newspaper had to say about us: “Entertaining and honest (at times devastatingly so), the In Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by comparison. More than 100 European cities have been given the treatment, and all the key content from the print editions has been collated on this well-organised and userfriendly website. It also includes a series of YouTube vignettes.”

Odesa In Your Pocket

above, Hali Gali is for you. This spaciousness establishment is, for obvious reasons, very popular with expats. The DJ spins the house and you bring the funk. Have fun, but mind your manners. QOpen 24hrs. PALW Blues Bar Dykyi Z E-4, Dobrovolskoho 118A, tel. (+380) 48 728 14 53, www.dikiy-z.com. You know you‘re having too much fun when the bouncer taps you on the shoulder and says, „Sir, please put your shirt back on, you‘re scaring the other guests.“ Blues Bar rocks! Also, this is the first place where when I asked for the menu they gave me a newspaper - read up on local events while ordering from a menu full of classic bar/grill favourites. Live blues and rock until the wee hours of the morning and the best bar staff in town. QOpen 24hrs. Admission 20 - 50Hr. PAEW Ibiza Arcadia Beach, tel. (+380) 48 777 0205, www. ibiza.ua. Overlooking Arcardia beach, Ibiza is one of the city‘s sexiest and most popular clubs. Cosy Mediterranean inspired seating wraps around a stage and dance floor that regularly feature top Ukrainian rock and pop stars, DJs and dancers. Arrive early if you‘re hoping for a table close to the action, this place is usually packed and pulsates with life. During the day, the club transforms into a tranquil restaurant with a menu featuring inventive Ukrainian and European dishes. Staff is professional and friendly. Like many establishments located on the beach, Ibiza is open only during the summer. QOpen 24hrs. PAEW Ministerium Dogma Club F-2, Hoholia 12, tel. (+380) 48 777 12 77, www.ministerium.com.ua. The First Odessian Ministry of Relaxation. This is a unique luxurious club in Odesa, which offers the highest level of service. Disco Odesa parties usually invite Ukrainian and foreign bands. The entrance starts from a classical front stairs, which leads to three halls: Red Room, Noblesse and Triumph Hall. On the second floor there is English Cabinet - the fourth room. The restaurant part offers guests delicious list of dishes from Italian chef. Ministerium can host over 400 people. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. PLEGXW Palladium G-6, Italiis‘kyi bul‘v. 4, tel. (+380) 48 728 65 66, www.palladium.com.ua. This huge modern complex has everything; restaurant with Odesa and European cuisine, lounge café, nightclub-disco-restaurant with capacity for 1,500, 3 bars. The hotel has 23 rooms ranging from standard to suite, and a healthcare - VIP complex with Turkish bath, Finnish sauna, swimming pool, spa pool, sun lounge, etc. It is located near the train station and the staff is very friendly and English speaking. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. PLEGXW True Man G-5, Pushkinska 75, tel. (+380) 48 702 11 78. One of the popular clubs among smart youth, True Man is trying to follow the traditions of bootleggers’ underground bar from the times of Prohibition. It is friendly and alive, may be even a bit simple. Security control sometimes might be even rude if they don’t like you, but it makes the place inside safer. Prices are average QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. Sat, Sun 18:00 - 05:00. PLEGXW True Man Hot Boat Dolphin beach area, tel. (+380) 48 702 11 78. There are lots of clubs along Odesa seacost. If you’re tired of Ibiza and all others of this fashionable type, go to the True Man near the Dolphin beach. In the seaside True Man excellent music or DJ usually plays and nice cheerful people will be around. Prices will be a real surprise. QOpen 24hrs. LEGXW Zazhygalka F-3, Katerynyns‘ka 35 (entrance from Zhukovs‘koho), tel. (+380) 48 785 67 27, www. russtriptease.com. Zazhygalka claims to put on a ‘nonstop striptease‘ of beau tiful dancers, complete wi th private shows and table dancing and water-strip shows. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAL

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Odesa’s centre is densely crammed with fascinating, inspiring and unique attractions that draw foreigners in packs. Ukrainian and Russian tourists tend to head straight for the beach, but inevitably make their way to Deribasivs’ka vul. (street) in order to pose in, on and around the many monuments, statues and relatively rare centuries old architecture. Odesa became one of the most important cities during the Russian Empire’s final epoch and its museums, overflowing with amazing and rare relics, attest to the cities former and current prominence.

Essential Odesa City Garden F-2, . Con-

structed in 1803, Odesa’s first park is located just off Deribasi vs’ka and was a gift from José de Ribas and his brother to the locals as gratitude for their trust and admiration. Contemporary Odesians rub elbows with tourists drawn in by th e parks fountain - a popular place to relax and socialize. A live orchestra stages regular performances. Vibrant bronze statues of lions, literary heroes and the eccentric sportsman Sergei Utochkin spring up from the manicured lawns and beg to photographed.

Deribasivs’ka E/G-2, .

One of the city’s main attractions, this is arguably the best place to grab a bite, unwind in a café or go for a stroll. The street was named in honour of José de Ribas, a Russian Imperial Navy admiral of Spanish-Irish origin and hero of the RussoTurkish War. Unmistakable to Soviet people, the street has been the centrepiece of various films, books and songs. The scene is always colourful and there is an energy here that draws one listlessly across the cobble.

Golden Child Sculpture

G-1, vul. Prymors’ka. The chubby bronze baby busting out of a futuristic metallic egg in front of the port station is a representation of “The Golden Age». The boy looks down philosophically at visitors who grab his toes and pose. Locals believe that touching the toddler will ensure a successful voyage.

House with Telamons F-1, Hoholia 1. In the front corner of this building, two toga wearing Greeks are battling over a gigantic Christmas tree ornament that seems to be holding up the entire structure. If not for Ukrainians’ bad taste wh en i t comes to balcony construction, one might describe this place as an architectural gem. The house was bestowed to the city by Baron

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Von Falz-Fein, an Odesian of German decent, and is located on one of Odesa’s most beautiful streets, where traffic is light and silence not an illusion. Passage E-2, Deribasivs’ka. An intriguing shortcut from Deribasivs’ka to Preobrazhens’ka, Passage is known for its beautiful architecture and alluring sculptures that adorn the ledges above the alleyway’s boutiques. Though in need of some repair, even the most pretentious traveller will be charmed by this passage’s uniqueness. S e a Te r m i n a l G - 1 , Prymors’ka 6. Odesa’s sea terminal was constructed in 1967 and restored into its modern shape in 2000. Many westerners find reassurance in its contemporary glass and metal architecture. The port not only welcomes vessels, bu t is a tourist and cultural centre as well. The Odesa Hotel casts a dominating shadow over the other sights and facilities that include showrooms, a yacht complex, a marine life centre and a marine art gallery.

Statue of the Duc de Richelieu G-2,

Pr ymor s’kyi bul’v. Th e great-great-grandson of a well-known cardinal, Richelieu was exiled to Russia from France by Marie Antoinette in 1790. He joined the Russian Imperial Army and fought in the RussoTurkish War. He was later appointed by Tsar Alexander II as governor of Odesa. The city’s progressive planning and development is credited to his ingenuity and determination. His goal was for Odesa to be recognised as a truly European city. One interesting note: at the base of the monument, coins and medals from the time of Louis XVI, Catherine II, Paul I, Alexander I and Louis XVIII are embedded.

Teschin Mist (Mother-in-law Bridge) F-1,

Mystetstv bul’v. This is one of the longest bridges in Odesa. Legend has i t that a high-ranking official commissioned the bridge in order to be closer to his mother-in-law’s scrumptious dumplings. Anyone with a Ukrainian mother-in-law will see right through this lie. In spite of the delicious home cooking, most son-in-laws dream in vain of keeping mom out, perhaps with prison style walls and razor wire or, better yet, a couple hungry Dobermans on patrol in the yard in case mom decides to drop in for another unscheduled visit. A local newlywed superstition requires that the happy couple secure a lock on the bridge’s steel railing and throw away the key. This will ensure a lasting marriage.

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What to see Vorontsovs’kyi Palace

F-1, Vorontsovs’kyi prov. 2. A magnificently reconstructed citadel located on the site of on an ancient Greek settlement and Turkish fortress, it suffered many devastating assaults and misfortunes. For example, on April 10th, 1854 an AngloFrench squadron bombarded Odesa. The palace and garden were hit by more than 200 cannonballs, one of which is still embedded in a wall on the ground floor. Next to the palace stands Vorontsovs’kyi Belvedere. Reminiscent of colonnades constructed in ancient Greece, it is especially stunning when viewed from the sea.

Churches & Cathedrals Saint Pr eobra zhensky’s Cathedral Soborna

pl. This is the largest of Odesa’s Or thodox cathedrals. Established as a small house of worship in 1808, by the beginning of the 20th Century it had expanded into one of the Russian Empire’s grandest Russian Or thodox cathedrals. With elbow room for 12,000, it was the region’s religious epicentre. Each stage of expansion reflected

City Tours & Travel Agencies Albatros Travel H-3, Zhukovskoho 2 (entrance

from Kanatna 22), tel. (+380) 44 495 56 70, info@ albatros.travel, www.albatros.travel. Albatros Travel provides excursions and guide services, transportation and accommodation, airline tickets and VIP services at the airport. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A

Alvona G-3, Pushkins’ka 8, tel. (+380) 48 777 25 50, [email protected], www.alvona.com. A Free Tours Havanna 6, tel. (+380) 97 654 01 78, [email protected], www.free-tours.odessa.ua. Join free daily walking tours around Odesa. Meeting point: Monument to Duke on Primorskyi bul’v. at 12:00 and 16:00. Look for the guide with blue Free Tours flag.

Odesa Sea Port Tourist Bureau G-1, Prymors’ka 6, tel. (+380) 482 729 38 03, www.port.odesa.ua. Prime Excursion Bureau Kyiv, Schekavyts’ka 30/39, suite 4, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 227 77 78/(+380) 99 550 00 00, [email protected], www.primetour.ua. Kyiv city tours, accommodation, travel services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A Odessa Walks tel. (+380) 63 814 63 73, info@

odessawalks.com, www.odessawalks.com. Odessa Walks provides entertaining ways to explore the city. There’s no need to book or pre-pay. Select a tour on web-site and show up.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A

Tartus Tour F-3, Zhukovskoho 32, tel. (+380 482) 42 91 22, [email protected], www.tartoustour.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A Odesa In Your Pocket

the great leaps in development experienced by Odesa and the surrounding area. In 1936, Soviet authorities ordered the plundering and destruction of this architectural jewel. Contrary to popular belief, it was not blown up, but cruelly disassembled. Restored in 2005, what you see today is only a partial reconstruction of the original.

St. Paul’s Lutheran Cathedral (Kir che)

Novosels’koho 68. The brainchild of Italian architect Francesco Boffo, St. Paul’s was originally constructed in 1824. By the 1890s, the congregation had outgrown the building, and an expansion project was commissioned. Reopened in 1897, the new church could accommodate up to 1200. Houses of worship were not immune to the radical changes that took place during Soviet rule, and St. Paul’s was transformed into a sports hall. Fire devastated the structure in 1976, and a pile of rubble marked the site until a recent movement to rebuild finally garnered necessary support. The new cathedral promises to be a much needed centre for Odesa’s Lutheran and German communities. A couple interesting historical notes: Teofil Richter, father of virtuoso Sviatoslav Richter, played organ here and Leon Trotsky, V. I. Lenin’s right hand man, attended St. Paul’s school. In his memoirs, Trotsky wrote: St. Paul’s Realschule “sowed in me, contrary to its direct purpose, the seeds of enmity for the existing order.”

Jewish Odesa The Central Synagogue of Odesa F-4, Yevreis’ka

25, tel. (+380) 482 34 78 50. The Central Synagogue was constructed by architect P. Morandi in 1850. Its façade and interiors are a mix of Florentine and Romanesque. During the Soviet era, the Synagogue was seized and used by the Odesa Pedagogical Institute’s faculty of physical training. The prayer hall was transformed into a gym, and its height was halved by an intermediate floor. The arched lateral openings were blocked and classrooms were built in the balconies 1996, the Synagogue was returned to Odesa’s Jewish community. Rosh Hashanah 1996 marked the first time in decades that Jewish people gathered within the Synagogue. In the years that followed, the structure underwent profound reconstruction. A mikvah (a pool used for ritual purification) was introduced and a bimah (pulpit) was reinstalled. Quotidian prayers are currently held here, as well as festivals that attract hundreds of worshipers. The Central Synagogue houses the office of Odesa Region’s Chief Rabbi Shlomo Baksht, the “Ohr Sameakh” weekly newspaper and “Ohr Sameakh” TV. The library offers an impressive selection of books and films on Jewish culture, history and traditions. Regular seminars on Judaism are hosted in the library, and the knowledgeable English speaking staff is on hand to answer any inquiries. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat.

Full content is available at

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THE GREAT CHORAL SYNAGOGUE OF ODESSA

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What to see

What to see

Potyomkin Stairs

Museums

These gigantic, instantly recognizable stairs were designed in 1825 by architects Francesco Boffo, Avraam Melnikov and Pot’e, and built in 1837-1841. As the story goes, Duke Voronzov paid 800,000 rubbles for the stairs, which he commissioned as a gift for his wife Elizabeth. (“Oh honey! Steps. Just what I always wanted.”) Initially consisting of 10 ledges, the original 200 stairs stretched nearly to the sea. However, during the construction of Prymors’ka vul., eight stairs were buried and, as residents like to point out, still lie beneath the pavement.

13, tel. (+380) 482 22 74 53. Visitors to this museum will become acquainted with the adventures of Odesa’s most famous short term resident: the esteemed Russian poet Alexander Pushkin. Banished for his political writings, Pushkin found solace in Odesa where he spent 13 fruitful months. The museum is dedicated to telling this story. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 6Hr, children 3Hr. Excursions 25-35Hr. Archeological Museum G-2, Lanzheronivs’ka 4, tel. (+380) 48 722 01 71, www.archaeology.odessa.ua. Even with its somewhat diminished collection, this museum inspires delight and wonder. One of the oldest of Odesa’s museums, it was founded in 1825 and later moved to a specially designed facility in 1883. An impressive exhibit of the Tripolye, Chernyakhovo and other ancient Ukrainian cultures is on hand. The most popular displays are the ancient sarcophaguses and the rich collections of jewellery and other precious artefacts, some of which date back to 1000 B.C. The ensemble of the Egyptian antiquities is the third largest in the former Soviet Union. Due to the spooky atmosphere, locals are convinced that the place is haunted. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 18Hr, children 9Hr. Excursion 40Hr.

Alexander Pushkin’s Museum G-3, Pushkins’ka

How the stairs got their name On the evening of 14 June 1905, the Prince Potyomkin of Tauris – a mutinous battleship of Imperial Russia’s Black Sea fleet – set anchor at Odesa’s port. Sensing an opportunity, socialist revolutionaries mobilized the city’s dissident workers and took to the streets. The revolutionaries never managed to linkup with the mutinous sailors and the movement was violently squashed by Imperial forces. Most of the mutinous sailors managed to escape by setting sail for Romania, where they abandoned the Prince Potyomkin of Tauris. The stairs became world renowned following the 1925 release of Sergei Eisenstein’s film depicting the mutiny entitled “Battleship Potyomkin.” The film’s violent and climactic scene, set on the stairs, played on movie screens around the world. The stairs were officially given the name Potyomkin in 1955, in honour of the 50th anniversary of the Battleship Potyomkin Uprising. Potyomkin Stair factoids • Every year, Odesa hosts a race “Up the Potyomkin Stairs.” The record is 22.8 seconds. • The Potyomkin Stairs were voted the sixth the most beautiful stairs in Europe, according to a marketing survey. • Due to the winding coastline, the Potyomkin Stairs actually descend to the sea not to the south as it may seem, but to the northeast. • During the Day of Odesa, a celebration takes place on the stairs complete with a festive concert and fireworks.

Funicular To the right of the stairs, there is a free funicular that connects Prymors’ka vul. and Prymors’kyi bul’var. It was built in 1902, replaced in the 1970s by an escalator, and then restored after the escalator broke in the 1990s. The new funicular opened on September 2, 2005 in honour of Odesa’s 211th jubilee. The funicular consists of two wagons, each accommodating 12 passengers. Travel time is 1 minute 10 seconds.

Potyomkin Stairs G-2/3, Prymors’ka. Odesa In Your Pocket

Archeological Museum

Bleschunov Municipal Museum of Personal Col-

lection G-4, Pol’s’ka 19, tel. (+380) 48 722 10 81. This museum/apartment was the former residence of the alpinist and collector Alexander Bleschunov. It was transferred to the city and opened to the public in 1989. This is a small, but extremely dense and fascinating exposition of various collections of art, relics and crafts. Many themes and regions of the world are represented; from 19th century Russian, the Buddhist East, Western Europe and the explorer’s own cherishes relics representing various adventurous stages of his life. There are many features that distinguish this museum, most notably is the gracious staff that creates a welcome home atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admission 5Hr. Filiki Etheria F-3, Chervonyi prov. 20, tel. (+380) 482 35 71 36, www.hfcodessa.org. Filiki Eteria (Greek meaning ‘society of friends’) has been functioning in Odesa since 1979 as a branch of the Regional History Museum. In the days leading up to the city’s 200th anniversary, Odesa opened the Greek Cultural Foundation, which is also a functioning part of the museum. These buildings originally belonged to Greeks, and in 1814 functioned as the secret meeting place for the establishment of the revolutionary organisation Filiki Eteria, whose objective was independence for all Greeks from Turkish occupation. The history of the creation, administration and acodesa.inyourpocket.com

Don’t miss a visit THE MUSEUM OF UKRAINIAN COSSACKS HISTORY Chernomorsky Cossacks Str. 9, Odessa, Ukraine Tel: +380 50 5109286 / +380 48 7718824, [email protected] cossacksmuseu.jimdo.com / streleckoh.jimdo.com

tivities of Filiki Eteria are on display. The exhibitions are a stirring tribute to the heroic revolutionary members of Odesa’s Greek community. Enjoy excursions, lectures, thematic conferences and student oriented lectures. Works continue to be updated and expanded. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fine Art Museum E-1, Sofiivs’ka 5A, tel. (+380) 482 23 82 72, www.museum.odessa.net/fineartsmuseum. This museum is located in the former private residence of Count Pototsky, which was purchased by the city and inaugurated in 1899. The 26 halls host a variety of intriguing exhibits - from ancient icons to modern art. Kiprensky, Topinin, Ayvazovsky, Vrubel, Roerich, Benua and Levitan are just some of masters whose art adorns the museum’s walls. The most curious, must see attraction is the subterranean grotto with a waterfall - an ideal place for a romantic hook-up. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admission 20Hr, children 10Hr. Literature Museum G-2, Lanzheronivs’ka 2, tel. (+380) 48 722 33 70. As you stroll the museum’s halls, silent portraits gaze down and draw you into their lost world. Books, manuscripts and the personal effects of writers and poets who lived and worked in Odesa (from Pushkin to Bunin) are on display. Small modern sculptures of beloved literary heroes and their authors adorn the museum’s courtyard. Besides literary exhibits, the museum also hosts art exhibitions, concerts, book presentations, conferences and cultural activities. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20Hr. Museum of Waxwork F-2, Rishel’ievs’ka 4, tel. (+380) 48 722 34 36. All of Odesa’s greatest celebrities have been gathered in one place: The Museum of Waxwork. This high society circle currently consists of 26 waxy individuals. The good news is that the museum is expanding its display. The bad news is that the museum will be close until spring for this expansion. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 30Hr, students 25Hr, children 20 children under 6 free. Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) H-3, Sabans’kyi prov. 4A, tel. (+380) 482 34 36 44, www.msio.com. ua. The museum collection represents art works of leading painters from Odesa at the turn of 20th and 21th centuries. MoMA was founded in 2008 by a businessman and art patron V.Morokhovskiy. The exposition is based on a unique collection of Its exposition is based on a unique collection of M.Knobel that was significantly expanded during the existence of the museum. There are also an exhibition hall and a gallery in the Museum, where modern art exhibitions, conferences and various art projects are conducted. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed, Sun. Nicolas Roerich House-Museum G-5, Velyka Arnauts’ka 47, office 2, tel. (+380) 48 715 58 58. The museum was established in 2000, and is based on reproductions of work by the adventurer, philosopher and Nobel Prize

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Dolphinarium Dolphinarium I-5, Lanzeron

beach 25, tel. (+380) 48 720 70 70, www.nemo.od.ua. The largest dolphinarium in the former Soviet Union offers an unforgettable array of experiences including swimming, communicating and diving with dolphins. Above and underwater photo and video sessions with dolphins and seals can be ordered. Extremely popular with vacationers looking for an etched in your mind event, it makes sense to book in advance. Shows times are Tuesday through Sunday 12:00, 15:00 and 18:00. A night show on the weekend starts at 21:30. Admission 120Hr, night show 150Hr, children under 5 free.

Catacombs Beneath Odesa lies an incredible labyrinth known as the catacombs. In the early 19th Century, city developers discovered that the plentiful limestone, just meters below, was perfect for construction. Many of Odesa’s famous archi te c tural m onum en ts are built of bricks cut from this quarried stone; th e unin tended resul t was one of th e world’s largest net works of tunnels. Unlike the catacombs of Paris and Rome, the only skulls and bones entombed in Odesa’s catacombs are those of the crazy-brave miners, smugglers, partisans and spelunkers who were unlucky enough to lose their way in this 2,500 km long maze. The only authorised entrance is located in the small village of Nerubayske, 12 km from Odesa’s centre. The Museum of Partisan Glory offers a small yet fascinating glimpse into this vast underground world and is a fitting tribute to the courageous Soviet partisans who lived and staged guerrilla attacks from this sanctuary against Nazi occupiers. You’ll need to hire a guide; they’re the only ones with keys to the entrance. The guide services listed below provide excursions in English and Russian and can arrange transportation to and from Nerubayske.

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What to see Odesa Jewels Western and Eastern Ar t Museum G-3,

Pushkins’ka 9, tel. (+380) 48 722 48 15, www. oweamuseum.odessa.ua. If you only have time to visit one museum in Odesa, this is the one. Paintings and sculptures by Michelangelo, Peter Paul Rubens, David Teniers, Sebastian del Piombo, Merisi da Caravaggio, Frans Hals and other masters are on display. Does this museum sound familiar? Perhaps you heard the disturbing news. On July 30, 2008 Caravaggio’s “Taking of the Christ”, a painting valued at 100 million dollars, was lifted in one of the world’s most lucrative heists. It seems that only a miracle can bring this spectacular work back to Odesa, but miracles have been known to happen… The museum proudly presents two paintings by Dutch master Frans Hals. “St. Matthew” and “St. Luke” were painted in the 1620s and are two of the most valuable works on display in Ukraine. The tale of how these paintings found their way to Odesa is truly amazing. Catherine the Great, the world’s most distinguished ar t collector, purchased four of Hals’ evangelist paintings in Holland near the end of the 18th Century. The ships that were transporting these and other valuables back to St. Petersburg were hit by a brutal storm. One ship sank and the other suffered extensive damage. All four masterworks were believed lost at sea. In 1958, the improbable happened. While perusing Odesa’s Privoz Market, an art collector was drawn to an old woman selling what appeared to be an ancient painting. Convinced that this was the work of a master, the collector invited the woman back to the museum. She wanted six roubles for the painting; the museum generously gave her nine. A comparable painting was later discovered in the museum’s store room. An expert from the Hermitage was the first to notice striking similarities between the stored piece and the painting purchased from the old woman. After further research, experts concluded that these were, in fact, two of the missing Hals masterpieces. Both works were proudly displayed in Odesa until, in 1965, they took part in an exhibition in Moscow. While at the Pushkin Museum, “St. Luke” was savagely cut from its frame. Detectives worked diligently, but hope of ever recovering the painting quickly faded. Luckily, the blundering thieves quarrelled, couldn’t come to terms with local scum and began to proposition would be foreign buyers. They eventually crossed paths with a secret service agent. The priceless piece was returned in sorry shape, having spent a year and half rolled up in a tube and stored in a hot dry place. Experts feared that the work was lost, but after two years of delicate restoration the painting was returned to the museum in miraculous condition. The fate of the two other pieces believed lost at sea has also become known. “St. Mark” has been in the hands of a private German collector for more than 30 years. “St. John” was sold at auction to American J. Paul Getty and is currently stored at the museum in Los Angeles that bears his name. QOpen 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 15-25Hr.

Odesa In Your Pocket

cosmopolitan odesa nominated artist Nicolas Roerich. Works by his son Svetoslav Roerich, and pupils B.A. Smirnova-Rusetskogo and others are also on display. The exposition occupies 5 halls. One of the halls displays the literary heritage of all members of the Roerich family, art albums and Svetoslav’s portraits of his famous family. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Admission is free. Numismatics Museum F-3, Hrets’ka 33, tel. (+380) 48 725 02 77, www.museum.com.ua. Who knew that numismatics could be so fascinating? This museum opened its doors to visitors for the first time on January 1, 1999 in commemoration of the city’s 205th anniversary. Within its impressive collection, the museum has over 2500 coins and antiquities from various Ukrainian epochs. The collection of relics from the Bosporan Kingdom, an ancient group that inhabited the Northern Black Sea Region for approximately a thousand years, is a must see. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission is free. Regional History Museum F-2, Havanna 4, (+380) 482 22 84. Founded in 1955, this museum’s exhibits are housed in a 19th century mansion. More than four thousand articles, many of which are priceless, are on display in 12 halls and represent the Odesa region from the 14th century to the present. The ‘Stara Odesa’ (Old Odesa) exhibit occupies the second floor. Maps, weapons, engravings, metal-work, paintings, documents and household implements tell the story of the different peoples who fought and died for control of the region. A notable display of publications including a 1581 Ostrozka Bible, a 1606 Trebnik prayer-book and other ethnographic materials offer a literary peak into the time when Cossack’s ruled. Finance and trade have always been among Odesa’s defining industries. Their importance is revealed in exhibitions showing bank notes, insurance policies, cheque-books and other interesting paraphernalia. QOpen 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Fri. Sea Port Museum G-2, Lanzheronivs’kyi Uzviz 2, tel. (+380) 48 729 38 57. At the bottom of Devolanivs’kyi uzviz you will find a fascinating, free museum. It was opened in 1990 in anticipation and commemoration of Odesa’s 200th anniversary. It is a one-of-a-kind museum as it tells the history of the Black Sea’s most important port. In the restored dock-worker sleeping quarters hang ancient drawings, original plans of the city and port and even a Cossack war ship. If you would like to learn more about the period on display, check-out ‘Chelkash’ by the famous Ukrainian writer M. Gorky, in which he describes life on a Black Sea dock. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission is free. The Museum of Ukrainian Cossacs History G-2, Chornomorskykh Kozakiv 9, tel. (+380) 48 771 88 24/ (+380) 50 510 92 86. Did you know that modern city of Odesa was founded on the site of middle age Cossacks settlement? And there were Ukrainian cossacks who actually drove out Turks from the present day Odesa region. To date, the museum has collected over one thousand exhibits and artefacts telling us the history of Ukrainian Cossacks. Unfortunately, only few of these can be shown in the permanent exhibition, which is only 120 sq.m. That’s why the museum is mostly working as a cultural centre studying the Cossacks history, folklore, cultural traditions and ceremonies. Each year it is involved in more than 30 cultural events around Odesa and the region. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission is free.

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From its founding in 1794 until the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917, Odesa was Eastern Europe’s melting pot. Dozens of nationalities alloyed into the beautiful creation we know today as Odesians. A complete assimilation did not take place, however. On the contrary, individual national identities have survived for generations and different cultures and religions continue to peacefully coexist. This atmosphere of mutual respect is credited to Odesians’ ability to poke fun not just at others, but at themselves. World Club of Odesians explains that each of the city’s cultures is more beautifully ridiculous than the next, and people “have learned to laugh at themselves and at everything in the world, even at pain and at those things they love. Those things that are sacred for you may be absurd for your neighbour, but your neighbour is neither a bum nor a thief. Maybe he is right, maybe not. But there is no reason to loose sleep over it.” Armed with this wisdom, multinational Odesa continues to thrive.

Odessos It’s only fitting that we begin our story of cosmopolitan Odesa with the Greeks. Not only is the name “Odesa” of Greek origin, archaeologists discovered a 2600 year-old Greek settlement on the hill above the port. The next time you’re strolling down Prymors’kyi bul’v. imagine toga and sandal wearing Greeks bustling about an outpost on the edge of a mighty empire. Filiki Eteria Odesa’s Greek heritage is not linked only to ancient times. Many Grecians immigrated during the industrial boom of the 19th Century. Political exiles and freedom fighters found a welcoming urban centre ideal for concealing and coordinating uprisings. Filiki Eteria (Society of Friends) was secretly formed in 1814 at a safe house located on Chervonyi prov. Their objective was independence for all Greeks from Turkish occupation. From humble beginnings in Odesa, they went on to play a critical role in the victory over the Turks in the Greek War of Independence (1821-29). During Soviet times, authorities attempted to deport all Greeks from the region; however, this was not to be the final chapter in Odesa’s Grecian saga. A handful of Greeks survived this era of tyranny, and a small community continues to call Odesa home.

Italian Odesa The inscription on Odesa’s original coat of arms (1798) was written in four languages: Russian, Greek, German, and Italian. Each of these groups played significant roles in shaping this amazing city, and the Italians deserve much of the credit for the actual shape. Just as in St. Petersburg, Italian architects left an elegant mark on Odesa that continues to delight travellers, and inspire artists and writers. Names like Franz Frapolli and Francesco Boffo will be forever embedded in the city’s history. Designed by Frapolli, the Felix de Ribas House (Deribasivs‘ka 13) has remained intact for nearly 200 years. Boffo designed the Potemkin Stairs, the city’s most recognized feature. He is also responsible for the Vorontsovs’kyi Palace, which is not only beautiful, but apparently indestructible. On April 10th, 1854 the structure withstood an Anglo-French bombardment of more than 200 cannonballs, one of which is still embedded in a wall on the ground floor. As with the Greeks, a small community remains, and a new wave of Italian prospectors has come seeking fortune in contemporary commercial markets.

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German Odesa While perusing centre, you’ll notice that the Italians, Greeks, French, Jews and even the Poles have streets named in their honour. But what about the Germans? Surely, their contribution to marvellous city warrants recognition in the form of a street name. It turns out that there was a street at one time, but the name was changed. The Nazi occupation of Odesa is still a sensitive issue locally; don’t expect the name to be restored any time soon. That said, the contribution of Odesa’s German community cannot be overlooked. Thousands immigrated from Germany, Austria and Switzerland in the 19th Century and made an immediate impact as coach makers, gunsmiths, watchmakers, bakers, printers, photographers and druggists. Brewing also fell to capable German hands; brands such as Santsenbauer and Kempe became regional favourites.

The Gates of Zion From “Odesa Mama” to “Hero Town”, locals have many terms of endearment for their beloved city. The Jewish community refers to Odesa as “The Gates of Zion”. Throughout the first half of the 20th Century, Jews set sail for Palestine from Odesa’s port. But Odesa was not just a layover; it has had a large established Jewish population since the early 19th Century. During these trying anti-Semitic times, it was believed that only Odesa offered Jews the possibility of a normal life. And what did Jewish Odesians do? Everything and then some. They worked as shopkeepers, craftsmen, salt dealers, shoemakers, grain vendors, dockworkers, moneylenders, jewellers, lawyers, engineers, doctors and artists. Odesa continues to be Ukraine’s centre for the Jewish community, and Jews continues to play an inseparable role in the city’s growth and prosperity.

Frantsuzskiy Bul’var Don’t be distracted by the champagne with the Frantsuzskiy Bul’var label, the contribution of French Odesians extends well beyond winemaking. Armand Emmanuel Sophie Septemanie du Plessis, duc de Richelieu (say that five times fast) was exiled to Russia by Marie Antoinette in 1790. After serving valiantly in the Russian Imperial Army, he was appointed governor of Duc de Richelieu Odesa by Tsar Alexander I in 1802. A progressive planner, Odesa blossomed under his leadership. De Richelieu’s compatriot, Louis Alexandre Andrault comte de Langéron, took over as governor in 1815. He established Odesa as a duty-free international trade zone. As a result, the city boomed, and prosperity flowed to all levels of society. In light of their tremendous contributions, it’s no surprise that their names have been immortalized in tributes including a statue of de Richelieu (Prymors’kyi bul’v.), Rishel’ievs’ka and Lanzheronivs’ka streets, Dukovskyi Garden and Lanzheron Beach. Many other Frenchmen found welcoming niches. For example, the first banks belonged to Frenchmen, and Odesa’s first newspaper was the Messager de la Russie Meridionale, ou Feuill Comerciale. Unfortunately, we don’t have space in our tiny publication to detail the contributions of the dozens of other nationalities that helped give Odesa Mama her flare. One thing can be concluded: each of Odesa’s cultures is like the bricks in the ancient apartment or hotel you happen to be sleeping in - take out one brick and the ceiling is likely to fall in on your bed.

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Lifestyle directory

Lifestyle directory

Mail & Phones

24-hour pharmacies

Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so often a letter or package will go missing and never arrive at its intended destination. The post office remains a throwback to Soviet times with its redundant and confusing bureaucratic order. When sending or picking up a package or letter be patient and try not to be too intimidated by the burly woman shouting incomprehensible orders at you.

Avitsena E-2, Pastera 50, tel. (+380) 48 777 74 86. Help E-4, Preobrazhens‘ka 72, tel. (+380) 48 728 21 77.

Mail Central Post Office E-2, Sadova 10, tel. (+380) 48 726 65 40, www.ukrposhta.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

Express mail DHL G-3, Hrets‘ka 22, tel. (+380) 48 711 79 43,

www.dhl.com.ua. Service points: F-5, Rishelievs‘ka 59, Chorne More Hotel, tel. (+380) 482 30 01 11; F-3, Hrets‘ka pl. 3/4, tel. (+380) 48 734 43 05. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. TNT Aeroportivs‘ka 25, tel. (+380) 482 35 80 10/ (+380) 482 35 80 20, www.tnt.ua. QOpen 09:00 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. UPS F-4, Onilovoyi prov. 16, tel. (+380) 482 32 19 67/(+380) 48 777 07 17, www.ups.com. QOpen 09:00: - 18:00.

Internet cafés Angar 18 F-5, Velyka Arnauts‘ka 52, tel. (+380) 482 34 36 46. QOpen 24hrs. 6Hr per hour. Submarine E-4, Preobrazhens‘ka 49/51, tel. (+380) 482 37 71 97. 4Hr per hour, scanning and printing services. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. VIP net E-2, Sadova 14, tel. (+380) 48 728 02 94. QOpen 24hrs. 5Hr per hour.

Using a telephone Fixed line telephone

To call a number inside Odesa just dial the number. To make a long-distance telephone call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone and then dial the city code and number. To call Odesa from another town, dial 0, wait for the tone, dial Odesa’s city code (48) and then the number. To make an international call, dial 0, wait for the tone, and then dial 0 plus the country code, city code and number itself. Mobile There are two types of mobile phone numbers in Odesa direct numbers (which do not differ from the Odesa fixed line numbers, and may be dialled as such) and mobile numbers (these should be preceded by 0 and the operator‘s code). SMS may not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone calls in Ukraine are relatively cheap and very reliable. You do not need to sign a contract or show your documents to use the local provider‘s service. SIM cards are available in special service centres, mobile phone stores and even on the streets. You can also buy cards to refill your account at these same locations.

Roaming

To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine use +380 followed by the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile phone, use the operator’s code instead of a city code.

Odesa In Your Pocket

AKS F-5, Panteleimonivs‘ka 70, tel. (+380) 482 49 67 41. Apteka Gaievskoho E-2, Sadova 21, tel. (+380) 48 722 24 08, www.aptekagaevskogo.od.ua.

Private clinics Danko Medical Centre Dobrovolskoho prosp. 77A, tel. (+380) 48 787 12 36, www.danko-nb.com.ua.

Oxford Medical G-3, Pol‘s‘ka 12, tel. (+380) 48 725

55 00/(+380) 48 784 01 04, www.oxford-med.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. V.I.P. Centre E-4, Tyraspols‘ka 16, office 27, tel. (+380) 48 725 50 91/(+380) 48 726 18 00.

Beauty salons & Hairdressers Art-8 F-2, Maiakovs‘koho prov. 8, tel. (+380) 48 723 23 29. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Aspazia E-2, Koblevs‘ka 45, tel. (+380) 482 42 92 91/ (+380) 482 35 92 04, www.aspazia.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. PUL

Maramax G-2, Chaikovs‘koho prov. 12, 2nd floor, For-

mula, tel. tel. (+380) 48 777 55 51, (+380) 48 728 25 55. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Maramax Institute Kerastase G-2, Lanzheronivs‘ka 9, tel. (+380) 48 777 88 82. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Mozart G-2, Lanzheronivs‘ka 13, tel. (+380) 482 32 22 22. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

Dry cleaners & laundries

Underwater Technologies Lab F-6, Vodoprovidna 1,

Boellen E-1, Torhova 19, tel. (+380) 48 777 67 77. QOpen 08:30 - 19:30. Odes‘ka G-5, Pushkins‘ka 55, tel. (+380) 48 777 75 24.

Thai Massage

Vodolaz E-1, Prymors‘ka 34, tel. (+380) 482 34 47 00,

Siam Thai Spa H-3, Kanatna 5, tel. (+380) 48 725

Also at Preobrazhens‘ka 48, tel. 777 77 52; Rozkydailivs‘ka 3, tel. 777 75 26. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Billiards Odin G-3, Pol‘s‘ka 12, tel. (+380) 48 777 74 70, www. odin.com.ua. QOpen 24hrs. 50Hr per hour. Londrik Filatova 70/1, tel. (+380) 48 700 58 65, www. londrik.com.ua. Just a bit of the city centre, but easily reachable by tram #10, trolleybuses # 9, 10, 12. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Lunch time 14:00 - 15:00. Pyramid F-3, Oleksandrivs‘kyi prosp. 10, tel. (+380) 482 34 48 18. QOpen 24hrs.

Bowling 7 zirok (7 stars) G-3, Pol‘s‘kyi Uzviz 15, tel. (+380) 482 37 15 15, www.club-yo.od.ua. QOpen 24hrs. 120180Hr per hour. A

office 9, tel. (+380) 48 795 85 54.

www.vodolaz.com.ua.

Fitness clubs Formula G-2, Chaikovs‘koho prov. 12, tel. (+380) 48 728 99 20/(+380) 48 728 99 22, www.formulawellness.com. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Maximus G-1, Prymors‘ka 6, Odesa Hotel, tel. (+380) 48 777 70 90, www.maximus.com.ua. QOpen 07:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. Osa F-4, Palubna 9/4, tel. (+380) 482 33 66 33. QOpen 24hrs. AD Strekoza E-4, Bazarna 63, tel. (+380) 482 34 59 95. Also at: Lidersovs‘kyi bul‘v. 9A, tel. (+380) 482 32 41 01 QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A

Tennis courts Chornomorets H-6, Vitse-Admirala Azarova 1, tel. (+380) 48 712 30 00.

Mexico Akademika Hlushka 16, tel. (+380) 48 746 25 39. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. 69-150Hr per hour. A

Devolanovskyi Tennis Club G-2, Mytna pl. 1, tel.

Diving

Laun-Tennis Frantsuz‘kyi bul‘v. 85, tel. (+380) 48 780 01 00. From 100Hr per hour. Q ALK Prestige I-7, Druhyi Lermontovs‘kyi prov. 1, corp. 1, tel.

Poseidon G-1, Prymors‘ka 6, See Port Passenger Terminal, tel. (+380) 48 729 39 44, www.diveport. odessa.net.

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(+380) 48 729 49 88.

(+380) 48 746 03 25. Also at Zatons‘koho 30, Akademika Koroliova 88.

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01 10, www.thai-spa.od.ua. This oasis of Thai massage masters settled in a quiet street, just a few steps from busy business area of Odesa. You will be offered numerous types of Thai massage. Among them most popular are traditional massage for 305Hr per hour, bamboo stick massage for 390Hr per hour, aroma-massage for 315Hr per hour and foot massage for 245Hr. There are also different SPA and ayur vedic treatment programmes. Personnel speaks English, please call to make an appointment in advance. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAL

Yoga Centres Maharaja Yoga Club G-3, Bunina 12, (+380) 44 709 20 00, www.yoga-maharadj.com. Single visit 100Hr, 4 visits - 300Hr, 8 visits - 560Hr, 1 month unlimited pass - 1100Hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00.

Bike rental Need-a-Bike tel. (+380) 94 949 36 89, [email protected], www.need-a-bike.od.ua. Tired of walking? To experience Odesa on two wheels, call these guys and order a bicycle, which will be delivered for you to any place around the city. For up to 3 days expect to pay €25 for a single-speed bike, €30 for a mountain bike. From 4 to 7 days you’ll pay €35/40 accordingly, 8-14 days - €50/60. Deposit is required (€80-240). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAL 2013

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Shopping Antiques Anna F-2, Katerynyns‘ka 8/10, tel. (+380) 48 722 22 47. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Collection E-3, Preobrazhens‘ka 37, tel. (+380) 48 726 69 74/(+380) 482 39 98 61. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Collectioner F-5, Velyka Arnauts‘ka 57, tel. (+380) 48 715 58 27. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Hobbi E-5, Panteleimonivs‘ka 126A, tel. (+380) 48 714 48 38. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30.

Books Bukva F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 14, tel. (+380) 482 35 84 04/ (+380) 482 35 84 05. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Lotos Mira F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 18, tel. (+380) 482

37 27 65. Also at Torhova 26, tel. (+380) 482 719 39 06. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. The book shop F-3, Preobrazhens¹ka 17, tel. (+380) 48 711 73 05. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Fashion Benetton F-3, Bunina 25. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Canali F-3, Katerynyns‘ka 24, tel. (+380) 48 722 05 14. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Castro F-3, Hrets‘ka 25, tel. (+380) 48 728 14 44. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Egoiste F-3, Katerynyns‘ka 24, tel. (+380) 48 722 42 35/(+380) 48 722 48 07. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Elyzium F-4, Troits‘ka 32, tel. (+380) 48 715 51 23. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. AL La Banque F-3, Katerynyns‘ka 22, tel. (+380) 48 715 50 25. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Mango G-3, Rishelievska 9, tel. (+380) 48 715 51 06. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Naf Naf F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 21 (Europe Trade Centre), 2nd floor, tel. (+380) 482 37 93 42. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Pierre Cardin F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 21 (Europe Trade Centre), tel. (+380) 48 728 51 85. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Polo Garage F-2, Katerynyns‘ka 14, tel. (+380) 482 32 19 89. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Soho F-3, Katerynyns‘ka 35, tel. (+380) 48 711 74 66. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Tommy Hilfiger F-3, Katerynyns‘ka 20, tel. (+380) 48 715 03 83. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Flowers 7 Roses G-5, Deribasivs‘ka 12, tel. (+380) 48 741 17 18, www.7roses.com. Internet flower shop. QOpen 10:00

- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Artishok G-5, Pushkins‘ka 57, tel. (+380) 48 728 64 02. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Flower gallery E-3, Preobrazhens‘ka 25, tel. (+380) 48 729 48 58. QOpen 24hrs.

Gifts and Souvenirs Kaktus E-2, Bunina 42, tel. (+380) 482 37 94 85. Also

Business directory Lubava E-3, Soborna pl. 1, tel. (+380) 48 726 69 81, lubava.rialemon.com.ua. Lubava is an art gallery focused on handcrafts - tableware, bijouterie, dolls and souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. PA6U

Mozaika G-5, Pushkins‘ka 62, tel. (+380) 48 722 27 90. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Souvenirs G-2, Pushkins‘ka 1, tel. (+380) 482 42 93 84. QOpen 9.00 - 18.00. Surprise F-4, Rishelievs‘ka 38, tel. (+380) 48 731 46 39. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. World of Pottery E-4, Preobrazhenska, 68, tel. (+380)

67 937 86 93. All kinds of handcrafts made of clay - tableware, bijouterie, dolls and souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. P6U

Jewellery Dominant Diamonds F-2, Derybasivska 33/Preobraz-

henska 34, tel. (+380) 67 619 19 59, www.dominantdiamonds.com. Unique collections of fantastic jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Perfume & Beauty Alex Hors F-3, Hrets‘ka 35, tel. (+380) 482 33 54 67. Also at Panteleimonivs‘ka 25, tel. (+380) 482 39 27 50. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Brocard F-3, Deribasivs‘ka 21, tel. (+380) 48 728 51 90. Also at Hrets‘ka 26/28, tel. (+380) 48 722 14 73. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A Jan G-3, Hrets‘ka 23, tel. (+380) 482 37 70 10. Also at

Hrets‘ka 3/4, Athena Gallery, 1st floor, tel. (+380) 48 738 44 24. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00.

Photography City Digital Centre F-2, Vitse-Admirala Zhukova prov. 3/7, tel. (+380) 48 777 11 85. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Paparazzi E-3, Novosel‘s‘koho 72, tel. (+380) 48 726 28 25. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Podorozhnik F-4, Rishelievs‘ka 33, tel. (+380) 482 32 02 46. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

Shopping Centres Athena Gallery G-3, Hrets‘ka 3/4, tel. (+380) 48 738 44 00. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Europe F-2, Deribasivs‘ka 21, tel. (+380) 48 728 19 29. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Novyi Pryvoz F-5, Panteleimonivs‘ka 25, tel. (+380) 48 777 64 78. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Sady Pobedy (Victory Gardens) pl. 10 Kvitnia, tel. (+380) 48 785 85 85.

Seredniofontans‘kyi G-7, Semafornyi prov. 4, tel. (+380) 48 722 49 28, www.city-mall.com.ua/eng.

QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. TsUM G-7, Pushkins‘ka 72, tel. (+380) 48 725 71 46. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Accounts & Consulting Interconsult Rishelievska 68, tel. (+380) 48 798 74 95, fax +38 048 748 04 92, [email protected]. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30.

European Business Association H-5, Velyka

Arnauts‘ka 15, office 154, tel./fax (+380) 48 738 68 37, www.eba.com.ua. Informall E-2, Preobrazhens‘ka 34, office 426, tel./fax (+380) 48 728 55 22, www.informall.biz. Triada F-3, Vitze-Admirala Zhukova 3-7, office 12, tel. (+380) 48 728 74 18, www.auditor.od.ua. Vidanta E-3, Soborna pl. 6, office 2, tel./fax (+380) 48 726 89 12, tel. (+380) 48 726 64 15, www.vidanta.net.

Banks Bank of Cyprus G-4, Pushkinska 41, tel. (+380) 48 733

64 74, fax (+380) 48 722 67 57, www.bankofcyprus. com.ua. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. OTP Bank G-3, Bunina 10, tel. (+380) 482 30 53 50, www.otpbank.com.ua/enb. Raiffeisen Bank Aval G-5, Velyka Arnauts‘ka 20, tel. 0 800 500 500, www.aval.ua. Swedbank F-5, Mala Arnauts‘ka 71, tel. (+380) 48 777 82 80, www.swedbank.ua. UniCredit F-3, Hretska pl. 3/4, tel. (+380) 8 800 508 00 50, www.unicredit.com.ua.

Lawyers Comersant Nechyporenka 12, tel. (+380) 48 722 19 06/(+380) 48 725 58 97, fax (+380) 48 777 96 95, [email protected], www.comersant.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. International Law Offices I-5, Observatornyi prov. 2/4, office 57, tel. (+380) 48 715 58 55, fax (+380) 482 49 69 25, www.murs.com.ua/en. Zharikov & Sinichenko H-5, Velyka Arnauts‘ka 2A, office 109, tel. (+380) 48 730 52 80/(+380) 48 730 53 70, [email protected], www.advokats.com.ua/eng.

Translators ABCD Group F-2, Bunina 30, tel. (+380) 48 775 02 48, [email protected]. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. LBV F-2, Lanzheronivs‘ka 28, tel. (+380) 48 743 47 91, fax (+380) 48 726 64 13, www.translators.od.ua/ en. Also at Zhukovs‘koho 36, tel./fax (+380) 48 722 93 68. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Slovo Dobrovolskoho prosp. 92, office 1, tel. (+380) 48 798 75 63, slovo-odessa.com.ua. Also at Oleksandrivskyi prosp. 5, office 2; tel. (+380) 48 771 86 73 QOpen 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. P6U

Armenia Consulate Gagarinske plato 5, tel. (+380) 48 703 91 78.

Bulgaria Posmitnoho 9, tel. (+380) 48 746 65 54/

(+380) 48 746 65 58, fax (+380) 48 746 65 48. China Nakhimova prov. 2, tel. (+380) 48 787 17 89/ (+380) 48 787 18 98, fax (+380) 48 737 30 31. Cyprus Honoured Consulate Gagarinske plato 7, tel.: (+380) 48 729 77 29. Georgia H-6, Mariins‘ka 4, tel. (+380) 48 726 47 27, fax (+380) 48 726 10 45. Greece E-2, Preobrazhens‘ka 32, tel. (+380) 48 786 62 58. Italy F-2, Katerynyns‘ka pl. 3, ap. 3, tel./fax (+380) 482 37 69 80, tel. (+380) 48 728 71 33. Kazakhstan Rozkydailivs‘ka 13, tel. (+380) 48 731 27 40. Latvia F-4, Uspens‘ka 75, office 4, tel. (+380) 482 49 63 33. Moldova Posmitnoho 2, tel. (+380) 48 785 67 15. Poland H-4, Uspens‘ka 2/1, tel. (+380) 48 729 60 03. Romania G-5, Bazarna 31, tel. (+380) 48 724 03 99/ (+380) 48 724 78 28. Russia Gagaryns‘ke Plato 14, tel. (+380) 48 784 15 44, fax (+380) 48 784 15 46. Turkey I-4, Lidersovs‘kyi bul‘v. 3, tel. (+380) 48 722 79 11, fax (+380) 48 722 14 78.

International Schools Odesa International School 10 Kvitnia pl. 1, office 54-56, tel. (+380) 48 719 07 70, www.ois.com.ua.

Language courses Bridge School 10 Kvitnia pl. 1, tel. (+380) 48 777 41 54, www.bridgeschool.ua.

Officials City Council G-2, Dums‘ka pl. 1, tel. (+380) 482 35 60 61.

Ministry of Foreign Affairs H-6, Vidradna 3, tel.

at Preobrazhens‘ka 34, Passage; Panteleimonivs‘ka 21, Novyi Pryvoz.

Odesa In Your Pocket

Foreign representatives

(+380) 48 729 68 48, fax (+380) 48 725 86 37.

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odesa.inyourpocket.com

2013

39

Street register & index

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Admirala Lazareva vul. E-6 Bazarna vul. E/G-4, G/H-5 Bielins’koho vul. H-4/7 Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho vul. E-5 Bolhars’ka vul. E-6 Bunina vul. E/H-3 Chaikovs’koho prov. F/G-2 Chekhova prov. F-7 Chervonyi prov. F-3 Chornomors’ka vul. I-4/6 D’ohtiarna vul. E-4 Derebasivs’ka vul. E/G-2 Devoranivs’kyi Uzviz G-2/3 Druhyi Vodoprovidnyi prov. E/F-7 Dryhyi Kulykovs’kyi prov. G-7 Dums’ka pl. G-2 Dvorians’ka vul. E-2 Dytiacha aleya H-4 Frantsuz’kyi bul’v. H-6/7, I-7 Havanna vul. F-2 Henerala Vatutina vul. E-6 Himnazychna vul. G-5/6 Hoholia vul. F-1/2 Holovna aleya I-4 Hospital’nyi prov. H-6, I-7

Hrets’ka pl. F-3 Hrets’ka vul. E/H-3 Italiis’kyi bul’v. F/H-6 Kanatna vul. H-2/4, G-4/7 Kanatnyi prov. H-5 Karantynna vul. G-4 Karantynnyi Uzviz G-2/3, H-3 Kataieva prov. G-7 Katerynyns’ka pl. F-2 Katerynyns’ka vul. F-2/6 Kinna vul. E-1 Kniazivs’ka vul. E-1 Knyzhkovyi prov. E-5 Koblevs’ka vul. E-2 Koval’s’ka vul. E-4 Kuibysheva vul. E/F-5 Kulykove Pole pl. G-6 L’va Tolstoho vul. E-3 Lanzheronivs’ka vul. F/G-2 Leitenanta Shmidta vul. G-5/6 Lermontovs’kyi prov. H/I-5 Liapunova prov. E-1 Lidersivs’kyi bul’v. I-4/5, H-5 Maiakovs’koho prov. F-1 Mala Arnauts’ka vul. E/H-5 Marazliievs’ka vul. H-3/5 Mariins’ka vul. H-6

Mors’ka vul. I-6 Mukachevs’kyi prov. H/I-6 Myasoedovs’ka vul. E-6 Mytna pl. G-2 Nakhimova prov. H-3 Nechypurenka prov. F-3/4 Nekrasova prov. F-1 Nizhyns’ka vul. E-3 Nova vul. H-5 Novoschipnyi Riad E/F-6 Observatornyi prov. I-4/5 Oleksandra Matrosova prov. G/H-7 Oleksandrivs’kyi prosp. F-3/4, E/F-5 Onilovoi prov. F-4/5 Orlykova prov. G-6 Osypova vul. G-4/5 Panteleimonivs’ka E/G-5, G/H-6 Pastera vul. E-1/2 Pershyi Vodoprovidnyi prov. F-7 Pokrovs'kyi prov. F-3/4 Pol’s’ka vul. G-3/4 Pol’s’kyi Uzviz G-2/3 Preobrazhens’ka vul. E-1/5 Prymors’ka vul. F-1

Prymors’kyi bul’v. F-1, G-1/2 Pryvozna vul. E/F-5 Pushkins’ka vul. G-2/5 Pyrohovs’ka vul. G-6/7, H-7 Pyrohovs’kyi prov. H-7 Rishel’ievs’ka vul. F-3/5, G-2/3 Sabaneiv Mist F-2 Sadova vul. E-2 Schepkina vul. E-1/2 Schepnyi prov. vul. E-4 Seminars’ka vul. G/H-7 Seredn’ofontans’ka vul. F-7 Shevchenko prosp. H-7 Shtabnyi prov. G-6 Soborna pl. E-3 Sofiis’ka vul. E-1 Sportyvnyi prov. I-7 Spyrydonivs’ka vul. E-3 Staroportofrankivs’ka vul. E-5 Starosinna pl. F-6 Starosinna vul. F-6 Suvorovs’ka aleya H/I-3 Torhova vul. E-1 Tretiy Vodoprovidnyi prov. E/F-7 Troits’ka vul. E/H-4 Tyraspol’s’ka pl. E-3

Tyraspol’s’ka vul. E-3/4 Udil’nyi prov. H/I-7 Uiutna vul. I-6 Uspens’ka vul. E/H-4 Uspens’kyi prov. E-4/5 Ut’osova vul. E-4 Velyka Arnauts’ka vul. E/H-5 Vidradna vul. H-6 Viis’kovyi Uzviz F-1/2 Viry Inber vul. I-5 Viry Kholodnoi pl. F-3 Vitse-Admirala Azarova vul. H/I-6 Vitse-Admirala Zhukova vul. F-2/3 Vodoprovidna vul. E-7, F-6 Volz’kyi prov. F-6/7 Vorontsovs’kyi prov. F-1/2 Voznesens’kyi prov. F-6/7 Vysokyi prov. E-7 Yamchyts’koho prov. G-6 Yasna vul. H-6 Yelysavethrads’kyi prov. F-7 Yevreis’ka vul. F/G-4 Yuriia Oleshi vul. G-3 Zaslavs’koho vul. E-4/5 Zhukovs’koho vul. E/H-3

19.53 Café 20 ABCD Group 39 AirBaltic 6 AKS 36 Akvarel 20 Aleksandrovskiy 15, 24 Alexander Pushkin's Museum 32 Alex Hors 38 Alkhimia 20 Alliance Française 12 Alvona 30 Amerikano 18 Angleter Club 20 Anna 38 Antony's Home 19 Apelsin White 26 Apteka Gaievskoho 36 Arabian Culture Centre 12 Archeological Museum 32 Arkadia Plaza 14 Ark Palace-Premium Hotel Apartments 15 Art-8 36 Artishok 38 Aspazia 36 Athena Gallery 38 Austrian Airlines 6 Avis 6 Avitsena 36 Ayva 24 Ayvazovsky 15 Bank of Cyprus 39 Barbecoa 24 Basilic 23 Bavarian House 12 Bazlyk - Odesa Karaites Society 12 Belleville Cafe 26 Bellini Lounge Dance Café 26 Benetton 38 Bernardazzi 24 Birlik 12 Bleschunov Municipal Museum of Personal Collection 32 Blues Bar Dykyi Z 28 Boellen 36 Bootlegger 20 Bosfor 24 Boulevard 22 Bridge School 39 Brigantina 16 British Council 12 Brocard 38 Bukva 38 Bulgaria 39 Bulgarian Culture Centre 12 Bunin 26 Café Farshmak 22 Café Graf 26 Café Sophie 22 California 15 Canali 38 Captain Morgan 27 Castro 38

Central Post Office 36 Česka rodiná - Odesa Czech Society 12 Cha Cha 23 Champion 7 Chernomorets 37 China 39 Chorne More 15 Chorne More Otrada 16 City Council 39 City Digital Centre 38 City Garden 29 Classico 36 Collection 38 Collectioner 38 Comersant 39 Compot 22 Continental 14 Corona 18 Corvin 27 Czech Airlines 6 Dacha 22 Deribas 16 Deribasivs'ka 29 De Rishelie 19 Devarana 20 Devolanovskyi Tennis Club 37 DHL 36 Dikiy Koyot 27 Di Mare 24 Diysno Dobre Pyvo 27 Dolphinarium 33 DRK Residence 18 Egoiste 38 Ekaterina 16 Ekaterina II 15 Elyzium 38 Eneida 12 Europcar 6 Europe 38 EBA 39 Fanconi 1872 26 Filiki Etheria 32 Fine Art Museum 32 Flower gallery 38 Formula 37 Formula-1 7 Forsage 7 Franzol 26 Frapolli 16 Frederic Koklen 16 Free Tours 30 Gambrinus 27 Georgia 39 Glasgow 27 Golden Child Sculpture 29 Greece 39 Greek Culture Foundation 12 Habibi Hookak Bar 27 Hellas Odesa Greek Club 12 Help 36 Hertz 6 Hevron 23 Hillel Jewish Culture Centre 12 Hobbi 38

House with Telamons 29 Ibiza 28 Informall 39 Interconsult 39 International Law Offices 39 Israel Culture Centre 12 Italian Kvartal 24 Italy 39 Jan 38 Jazzy Buzzy 22 Jewish Culture Centre "Beit Grand" 12 Kaktus 38 Kamasutra 23 Kavanakh Murphy's Pub 27 Kazakhstan 39 Khizhina 23 Khutorok u Morya 25 Kiy Avia 6 Klarabara 22 Kobe 20 Kontrabas Art-Café 12 Kumanets 25 Kuyalnik Resort 19 La Banque 38 Lafa 19 Lafka Café 23 La Gioconda 16 Laila 24 La Rose 36 Latvia 39 Laun-Tennis 37 LBV 39 Lermontovskiy 16 Literature Museum 33 Lotos Mira 38 Malev Hungrian Airlines 6 MamaCasalla 23 Maner 26 Mango 38 Maramax 36 Maramax 36 Maristrella Club 14 Marrakesh 26 Maryan's Home 19 Maximus 37 Medea 17 Mexico 36 Mickey O'Neil's Irish Pub 27 Mirage 18 Moldova 39 Morskoy 14 Mozaika 38 Mozart 14, 22, 36 Museum of Contemporary Art 33 Museum of Waxwork 33 Naf Naf 38 Nicolas Roerich HouseMuseum 33 Novyi Pryvoz 38 NT-Art 12 Numismatics Museum 33 Odesa branch of Azerbaijani Congress of Ukraine 12

Odesa International Airport 6 Odesa International School 39 Odesa Jewish Community 12 Odesa Regional Greek Society 12 Odesa Sea Port Tourist Bureau 30 Odesa Society of Armenian Culture 12 Odes'ka 36 Odessa Apartments 18 Odesskiy Dvorik Residence 18 Odin 36 Oktyabrskaya 17 Osa 37 OTP Bank 39 Otrada 14 Oxford Medical 36 Palladium 28 Pantera Express 7 Papa Costa 22 Paparazzi 38 Paradnaya No 1 26 Park Residense 22 Passage 18, 29 Pecheskago 23 Pechki da Lavochki 25 Pierre Cardin 38 Pirosmani 23 Pivnaya Bochka 27 Pivnoy Sad 22 Podorozhnik 38 Poland 39 Polish Airlines 6 Polo Garage 38 Porto 24 Poseidon 36 Pot’omkins’ki Skhody 32 Prestige 37 Prime Excursion Bureau 30 Profitroli Café Confectionery 26 Prosvita Ukrainian Society Odesa branch 12 Puzata Khata 23 Pyramid 36 Raiffeisen Bank Aval 39 Regional History Museum 34 Renaissance Suites Odessa 18 Romania 39 Royal Street 16 Rozmarin 23 Russia 39 Sabanskiy 22 Sady Pobedy 38 Saint Preobrazhensky's Cathedral (Sobor) 30 Salieri Art Café 12 Schastie 12 Sea Port Museum 34 Sea Terminal 29 Seredniofontans'kyi 38 Sevilla 25 Shalanda 18 Shef Café 26 Sherlock 26

Siam Thai Spa 37 Sixt 6 Skipper Pub 27 Slavyanka Tours 30 Slovo 39 Società Dante Alighieri Comitato di Odessa 12 Soho 38 Soldi Trattoria 24 Souvenirs 38 Statue of the Duc de Richelieu 29 Steakhouse: Meat and Wine 20 St. Paul's Lutheran Cathedral (Kirche) 30 Strekoza 37 Submarine 36 Surprise 38 Swedbank 39 Tavernetta 24 Teschin Mist 29 The Babushka Grand Hostel 19 The book shop 38 The Central Synagogue of Odesa 30 Tito 20 TIU Front Page 19 TNT 36 Tommy Hilfiger 38 Triada 39 True Man 28 Tsentralnyi 17 TsUM 38 Turkey 39 Turkish Airlines 6 Tvorchestvo 12 Ukainian Moldovian Cultural Association 12 Ukraine International Airlines 6 Ukrainian Club of Odesa 12 Ukrainska Lasunka 25 Underwater Technologies Lab 37 UPS 36 Varadero 22 Vele Roso 16 Vernisage 12 Vidanta 39 Villa Venezia 14 V.I.P. Centre 36 VIP net 36 Vodolaz 37 Vorontsovs'kyi Palace 30 VRC 6 Western and Eastern Art Museum 34 White Moon 12 Wiedergeburt- Odesa German Cultural Society 12 World of Pottery 38 Yokohama 20 Yunost 17 Zakroma 25 Zazhygalka 28 Zucchini Pizzeria 24

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H. Vakulenchuk Literature Odessa Sea Port 1 Pot’omkintsy

Jose de Rivas (Iosif Deribas)

Archеоlоgical

DUMS’KA PL.

Renaissance Suites Aleksander Pushkin Odessa

PRYVOKZAL’NA PL.

64

6 9A

Italiis’kyi

pro v. Ch ek ho

11

19

Chorne More

Yelysavethr 4 ads’kyi

8/1 0

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STAROSINNA PL.

47

23

19

18

Alexander Pushkin

Cannon from the English Frigate «Tigеr»

Laokoon

Magic Bus Backpackers

9

GB Kаbоtаzhna Bukhta

Pоt’oмkins’кi skhody

ik ov s’ k o ho

Opеra and Ballet Theatre Wax Figures

Numismatics

Arabian Culture Centre

57

56 The Babushka Grand Hostel

64

65

55

B a za rn a

35

The Great Choral Synagogue

77

82

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15

46

27

oho

28

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Ekaterina

The Virgin Mary Assumption Church

25

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105 24

76

37

H re ts’ka

17

21

18

19

Londonskaya

Administrative building

pr ov . C ha

14

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24

Philiki Etheria

Church of St. Peter

KАTЕRYNYNS’KA PL.

L a n zh e ro

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Vorontsov’s Palace Ensemble

Founders of Odessа

Sabaneiv M is 11 t

HRETS’KA PL.

Otaman Holovatyi

StaroBazarnyi Garden

Stara Odesa

The Scientists House

Fundation of Greek Culture

36

16

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Zhvanetskoho

Unknown Militiaman

Tre riy Vo do pro vid ny i

9

45

48

Deribas

D e ri b a s i v

112 106 P an te le im o n ivs’ka

Pr yv oz na

37 116

72 89

107

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Local Lore

The City Garden

91

London

Chornobyl Victims

s’k

prov. Mаiak ovs’koho 9 1

Russian Drama

51

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Frederic Koklen

Aleksandrovskiy

61

88

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58

42

41

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41

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113

Central

52

33

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Marshal Malinovs’kyi

Young Spectators Theatre

Mikhail Vorontsov

а u ts ’k a 94

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The Holy Virgin Assumtion Cathedral

ka

117

M а lа A rn

128

11

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90

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119

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1 2/2