Shoe Fashion 2004

t FASHION

TWo Steps Fonnrard, One Step Back By MasarahVanEyck

for Capital Newspapers Color Me '80s Pumpkin, olive, burgundy, cinnamon, paprika, cognac. This fall, both women's and men's shoe colors can sound more like great food than great footwear.

But for Brenda Larson, buver and general manager of Heartiand Birkenstock on State Street and Cornblooms in Hilldale Mall, the selection of color adds spice to her work. "The last time I saw color like this was in the '80s," she said. "That's the only time I can remember selling a green or yellow shoe," At Cornblooms. brands like Keen, Savory Soles and Icon persist through the wfnter with their usual bright and artsy flair, while at Heartland

anything other than neutrals. For women's dressier looks, the

most prevalent color this year is pink whether in patent leather stilettos by Santana or Kenneth Cole's more subdued black and rose line both sold at Soulman on State Street. In fact, the pink-and-black hue duo is pretty much everywhere, from Famous F'ootwear pumps and flats to the Rafe collection, sold at Twigs on Monroe Street. According to Jami Straka, Famous Footwear's senior buver. pink and black shoes are ultra-retro, "inspired by both the preppy '80s and the

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Mod ls In the Details BuI color isn't the only variety

in this season's most stylish shoes. "We're seeing a lot of detail on shoes this year," said Straka. Stripes, buckles, tassels,

bows, printed leathers, fabrics and snaps this is the season of

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On the other hand (or

foot),

another "new" ,' color for shoe s.i sellers this

shoe.

While most

of the Rafe shoes at

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"

the more everyday and reas-

colors.

"This year we even have suede men's shoes in

blue and olive green," said Larson, noting that men's shoes rarely come in The Mary boot by S. Edelman, available at Famous Foofuvear

'

suring brown, "In both

Twigs come mostly in pink and black. each has a strik-

ingly different look. One pair is textured leather

season is :i,;

Collection," offers urban and chic styles that come in funky candy

the "detailed"

GiGi'50s."

Birkenstock

the'Architect

extensive in Madison) and Tsubo, which "has developed quite a following, " said Buttenhof.

with buckles. Slate

Za

Soulman has similar "fusion" men's styles by Medium. And Heartland Birkenstock offers a slreamlined, slip-on version in both men's and women's lines. Thankfully, both men's and wome['s shoes are also featuring shearling, a practical detail for Madison's winter wear. Boasting the biggest detail of all is Famous Footwear's selection of updated moccasins by Minnetonka and Rampage. Their beads and fringe are accented

with flashes of fuchsia, turquoise and lime to take them a step beyond the camplire.

Meet the New Boss Consistent with the '80s revival, even "casual" women's shoes are now patent leather

stilettos. However, lennifer Van Wart, owner of Twigs, says the

kitten heel is eouallv as fashionable and can b-e more man-

ageable.

"Women want the stvle and fashion but don't always want the heel. This way, your feet aren't going to kill you by the end of the day." Flats that call back tol950s are also making a comeback and look great with the full skirts and cigarette pants of the seaSon. And while Strong says the square toe remains the staple in men's styles, some of

Kenneth Cole's NewYork and Reaction lines are more tapered than in the past. As always, this year's retro look offers just enough of a wry twist updated colors, for example to appeal even to those who woru

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Another is a

nora. Birkensto ck

tweed-like fab-

Architect Collection. Heartland Birkenstock

ric topped

with a diminutive

men's and women's shoes,

brown is really holding its own this vear." said Paul Strong, who co-owns Soulman with Craig Buttenholl Soulman's fall collection of men's shoes come in browns that range from chocolate to camel. Most

*

notable are

their collection of Kenneth Cole (one of the more

leather bow

Detail also pops up ln men

s

iSft

especially ,flti on what Famous il n shoes,

calls fusion ffi urban -brands

Footwear R :'; "sports 'W styles" 11 wear in like Venture that take their inspiration from the athlitic stvles of the I 9 70s with retro stripes in updated colors.

Fron the Eirkenstock Architect Collection, Avila (left) in sesame and Tuscanv boot:

Page

i

retro,

the look before it was "Most people who wore a trendl the first time don't want to wear i it again," said Larson, "You havei to have interpretations that are i new to them."l

Steve Madden Classie, Famous

Footwear

; (right), available at Heartland Birkenstock

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