Romethesecondtime-tableofcontents
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CONTENTS Foreword
9
Introduction: Imagine Rome
11
1 THE WATERS OF ROME ITINERARY 1: Rome and Its Aqueducts: Parco degli Acquedotti ITINERARY 2: Water and War—On the Gianicolo ITINERARY 3: The Strange Career of the Tevere
23
2 THE NAZIS IN ROME ITINERARY 4: Hitler and the Germans Come to Rome ITINERARY 5: The Nazis and Fascists in Central Rome ITINERARY 6: Attack and Reprisal—A Story of Partisans and Nazis Part 1: Via Rasella Part 2: Via Tasso Part 3: The Fosse Ardeatine
24 32 42 57 64 76 83 84 87 92
3 BEYOND THE WALL: LIFE AND COMMUNITY IN A TWENTIETH-CENTURY SUBURB ITINERARY 7: Piazza Bologna: The Architecture of Modernism and Fascism—and Shopping ITINERARY 8: In the Parks, on the Streets, and in the Homes of the Famous, If Not Rich
95 96 112
4 GETTING AWAY INSIDE ROME ITINERARY 9: Monte Mario ITINERARY 10: On the Banks of the Aniene ITINERARY 11: Parco del Pineto
127 128 137 146
5 GETTING AWAY OUTSIDE ROME ITINERARY 12: Monte Cavo ITINERARY 13: Tuscolo from Frascati ITINERARY 14: Walking and Climbing Amid the Waters of Tivoli
153 155 163 170
6 AFTER SIX: CULTURE Contemporary Art (with Extras) Vernissage (Gallery Opening with Extras) International Academies Centri Sociali (Social Centers) Bookstore Entertainment Cinema Jazz Case (Houses of Culture)
181 182 185 188 191 193 195 197 203
7 AFTER EIGHT: FOOD AND DRINK Appio Latino Restaurants Around the Block in Flaminio ITINERARY 15: An Evening in Pigneto Wine Bars Rooftop Bars with Views
209 209 214 218 222 227
Acknowledgments
233
Index
235
LIST OF SIDEBARS Popes’ Symbols: Reading Monuments
38
Scooters and Cycles
54
Standing Water: Conquering Malaria
60
Angels & Demons
78
Fascist Numbering System: How to Date a Building
85
The Jews in Rome: A Brief History
91
How to Order Coffee
99
Shopping for Real Estate, Just for Fun
100
Woman with a Gun: Lunch with Francesca Mambro at Penny Bar
104
Drinking Fountains (Nasoni)
116
What’s in a Villa or Via (the Name)? Reading the Landscape
121
The Arch: From Rome to St. Louis
143
The Partisans of the Colli Albani (Alban Hills)
161
Joining an Italian Hiking Group
174
One-Glass Trattoria
213
Toasting Tactics
224
9
Introduction: Imagine Rome
11
1 THE WATERS OF ROME ITINERARY 1: Rome and Its Aqueducts: Parco degli Acquedotti ITINERARY 2: Water and War—On the Gianicolo ITINERARY 3: The Strange Career of the Tevere
23
2 THE NAZIS IN ROME ITINERARY 4: Hitler and the Germans Come to Rome ITINERARY 5: The Nazis and Fascists in Central Rome ITINERARY 6: Attack and Reprisal—A Story of Partisans and Nazis Part 1: Via Rasella Part 2: Via Tasso Part 3: The Fosse Ardeatine
24 32 42 57 64 76 83 84 87 92
3 BEYOND THE WALL: LIFE AND COMMUNITY IN A TWENTIETH-CENTURY SUBURB ITINERARY 7: Piazza Bologna: The Architecture of Modernism and Fascism—and Shopping ITINERARY 8: In the Parks, on the Streets, and in the Homes of the Famous, If Not Rich
95 96 112
4 GETTING AWAY INSIDE ROME ITINERARY 9: Monte Mario ITINERARY 10: On the Banks of the Aniene ITINERARY 11: Parco del Pineto
127 128 137 146
5 GETTING AWAY OUTSIDE ROME ITINERARY 12: Monte Cavo ITINERARY 13: Tuscolo from Frascati ITINERARY 14: Walking and Climbing Amid the Waters of Tivoli
153 155 163 170
6 AFTER SIX: CULTURE Contemporary Art (with Extras) Vernissage (Gallery Opening with Extras) International Academies Centri Sociali (Social Centers) Bookstore Entertainment Cinema Jazz Case (Houses of Culture)
181 182 185 188 191 193 195 197 203
7 AFTER EIGHT: FOOD AND DRINK Appio Latino Restaurants Around the Block in Flaminio ITINERARY 15: An Evening in Pigneto Wine Bars Rooftop Bars with Views
209 209 214 218 222 227
Acknowledgments
233
Index
235
LIST OF SIDEBARS Popes’ Symbols: Reading Monuments
38
Scooters and Cycles
54
Standing Water: Conquering Malaria
60
Angels & Demons
78
Fascist Numbering System: How to Date a Building
85
The Jews in Rome: A Brief History
91
How to Order Coffee
99
Shopping for Real Estate, Just for Fun
100
Woman with a Gun: Lunch with Francesca Mambro at Penny Bar
104
Drinking Fountains (Nasoni)
116
What’s in a Villa or Via (the Name)? Reading the Landscape
121
The Arch: From Rome to St. Louis
143
The Partisans of the Colli Albani (Alban Hills)
161
Joining an Italian Hiking Group
174
One-Glass Trattoria
213
Toasting Tactics
224
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