Romethesecondtime-index

INDEX academies, international American Academy in Rome, 37–38, 188 British School at Rome, 188–89 Centro Studi Americani, 189 French Academy at Villa Medici, 78, 190 German Academy (Villa Massimo), 114, 191 Hungarian Academy in Rome, 189–90 Romanian Academy, 190–91 Royal Spanish Academy, 190 accommodations Casa Internazionale delle Donne, 206 Air Terminal Ostiense, 66 American Academy in Rome, 37–38, 188 American Embassy, 80 amphora, 48, 70 ancient Rome, 19, 24–26, 28–29, 46–49, 68, 69, 91, 92–93, 119, 139, 158–59, 167–68, 231 see also aqueducts, Aurelian wall, Ostia Antica, and Tuscolo Angels & Demons (Dan Brown), 76, 78 Aniene path, 144–46 Aniene River, 23, 137, 142, 172, 176

anni di piombo (years of lead), 104 see also Moro, Aldo Anzio, 62 aperitivo, custom of, 222 Appio Latino neighborhood, 128, 209–14 ice cream Gelateria San Crispino, 212, 214 restaurants La Zingarella, 211 Mithos—La Taverna dell’Allegria, 210 Pizzeria La Madia, 212–13 Trattoria Ada e Mario, 211–12 wine bar Taberna Recina, 213 aqueducts ancient Aqua Anio Vetus, 24 Aqua Claudia, 24, 29–31 Aqua Julia, 25 Aqua Marcia, 24–25, 28, 29 Aqua Tepula, 25 Aqua Traiana, 34–35 Aqua Virgo, 26 Renaissance Acqua Felice, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31 Acqua Paola, 24, 26, 34–35, 37, 40–41, 42 235

INDEX Acqua Pia Antica Marcia, 26 Acqua Vergine, 28 Ara Pacis, 19 Alban Hills, see Colli Albani architects Bernini, Gian Lorenzo, 11, 29, 76, 78, 82, 87, 166, 173, 227 Borromini, Francesco, 87, 165–66 Braggi, Carlo, 81 Del Debbio, Enrico, 133, 135–36 De Renzi, Mario, 70 Fagiolo, Mario, 98 Fuksas, Massimiliano, 18, 165 Giovanozzi, Ugo, 79 Hadid, Zaha, 184 La Fuente, Julio, 66 Libera, Adalberto, 70 Maraini, Otto, 81 Meier, Richard, 19 Moretti, Luigi, 52–53, 136 Narducci, Roberto, 65 Pagano, Giuseppe, 70 Piacentini, Marcello, 46, 71, 73, 80, 82 Piano, Renzo, 131, 199 Quaroni, Ludovico, 143 Ridolfi, Mario, 98 Rossi, Ettore, 52 Saarinen, Eero, 108, 143 Sabbatini, Innocenzo, 107, 110, 140 Valadier, Giuseppe, 122 Viccaro, Giuseppe, 82 Vogt, Emilio, 80 architecture, 119, 123 see also architects; and Fascism, architecture of 236

architecture, modernist, 98, 107, 114, 119–20 see also Fascism, architecture of art galleries, 183–88 finding information on, 185 gallery openings, see vernissages private galleries Augusto Consorti, 184 Casa di Goethe, 184 Gagosian’s, 184 Gallerja, 184, 186 Hendrik Christian Andersen Museum, 187 Il Ponte Contemporanea, 184 Lorcan O’Neill, 184 Mara Coccia, 184 Romberg Art, 184 public galleries Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, 188, 191 MACRO, 183 MACRO Future, 46, 183 MAXXI, 183–84 Art of Travel, The (Alain de Botton), 16 Aurelian wall, 69 Badoglio, Pietro, 69 Bagni di Tivoli, 170, 172 bars and cafés: Bar dei Glicini (Frascati), 169 Bar Gianicolo, 41 Bar la Baita (outside Rocca di Papa), 157 Bar Meeting Place, 96 Be Bop Jazz Blues Live Club, 202 Bibli, 194

INDEX Bistrot dei Pini, 124 Café Du Parc, 70 Caffè Letterario, 75 Caffè Tornatora, 28 Casa del Cinema, 204 Casa Internazionale delle Donne, 206 Charity Café, 201 Dagnino, 157 doppiozero, 75 Fruit Bar, 128 Galleria Sordi, 194 Il Pentagrappolo, 202 Limonaia, 123–24 Lo Yeti, 221 Lo Zodiaco, 132 Mangiafuoco, 75 Necci dal 1924, 220 Parco della Musica, 222 Penny Bar, 96, 104–5 RED, 199, 222 Snack Bar, 102 Vecchio Franklin, 108–9 Barberini family, 37–38 Berlusconi, Silvio, 107, 129 Bernini, Gian Lorenzo, 11, 29, 76, 78, 82, 87, 166, 173, 227 bike rentals, 145 boat rides, 43 Bolivar, Simon, 141 bombing on via Rasella, 83–89 bookstores, 155, 193–95 Bibli, 194 Feltrinelli International, 193 Feltrinelli, 193 Libreria Esedra, 155 Lion Bookshop and Café, 193

Borghese family, 35, 38, 41 Borromini, Francesco, 87, 165–66 bridges English bridge (ponte all’inglese), 49, 230 Nomentana Bridge, 139–40 Ponte Cavour, 43 Ponte Cestio, 50 Ponte dell’Industria, 74 Ponte Mazzini, 43 Ponte Milvio, 139 Ponte Palatino, 48, 49 Ponte Rotto, 49 Ponte Sisto, 42–43 Ponte Sublicio, 44–47 Ponte Testaccio, 56 British Military Cemetery, 72 Buses Regional (COTRAL), 154–55 BIRG tickets, 154–55 BIT tickets, 154–55 see individual itineraries Cadorin, Guido, 80 Cadorin, Salone, 80 cappuccino, 83 Capuchins, 82–83 Caracalla, baths of, 23 case (houses of culture), 203–7 Casa dei Teatri, 34, 205 Casa del Cinema, 204 Casa del Jazz, 204 Casa dell’Architettura, 205 Casa della Memoria e della Storia, 182, 206 Casa delle Letterature, 204–5 237

INDEX Casa Internazionale delle Donne, 206–7 Castelli Romani (Colli Albani), 153–69 catacombs, 115 Jewish (not open), 123 San Callisto, 84, 92–93 Sant’Agnese fuori le mura, 119 Cattle Forum (Fora Boario), 48 Cavaglioni, Pino Levi, 161–62 children’s activities see also catacombs; films; films, information on English-language films; itineraries in chaps. 4 and 5; and parks bike rentals, 145 boat rides, 43 Lion Bookshop and Café, 193 luna park, 146 Santa Maria delle Concezione (Church of the Capuchins), crypt, 77, 82 Technotown, 124 churches Mausoleum of Santa Costanza, 119 San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane (San Carlino), 77, 84, 86–87 Sant’Agnese fuori le mura (and catacombs), 119 Santa Maria del Popolo, 78 Santa Maria della Vittoria, 76–78 Santa Maria delle Concezione and crypt (Church of the Capuchins), 77, 82 Santa Maria sopra Minerva, 228 Cinecittà, 27, 32 238

cinemas, 195–97 cinema houses Azzurro Scipioni, 197 Casa del Cinema, 197, 204 Cinema Trevi, 196 Grauco Film Ricerca, 196, 221 Metropolitan, 196 Nuovo Olimpia, 196 Nuovo Sacher, 52, 196 Palazzo delle Esposizioni, 196 cinema series Cannes a Roma, 197 Circo Massimo, 48 Città-giardino Aniene, 140–41 Cloaca Maxima, 48 coffee, how to order, 99 Coliseum, 230–31 Colli Albani (Alban Hills), 131, 153–69 Convent of Camaldoli (outside Frascati), 167 Crypta Balbi Museum, 17 customs house, 75 d’Annunzio, Gabriele, 73, 80 De Sica, Vittorio, 217 Del Debbio, Enrico, 133, 135–36 Etruscans, 47, 139, 153, 163, 167, 174 EUR, 18, 131, 136, 143 Fagioli, Massimo, 56 fasci, 70, 82, 112, 133 Fascism, 47, 57–74, 76–93, 112, 133, 136, 143

INDEX and empire, 53, 59, 83, 71, 143 and Villa Massimo, 115 architects of, 46, 143 see also individual names architecture of, 53, 65–66, 70–71, 79, 80, 98, 107, 111, 112, 114, 117–18, 140, 142–43, 229–30 and modernism, 53, 98, 111, 114 arch, meaning of for Fascism, 143 ATAC tram barn, 108 Banca Nazionale del Lavoro (National Workers’ Bank), 79 Casa della GIL, 52–53 Don Orione complex, 133–34 Fiat Building, 79 gazometro, 74–75 Hotel Forty-Seven, 229 INA Building, 79, 81–82 Jolly Theater, 107 Ministry of Corporations, 82–83 Ostiense post office, 70–71 Piazza Bologna post office, 98–99, 101 schools, 111–12, 142 see also EUR art of, 76 Cadorin, Guido, 80 Cadorin, Salone, 80 Cloza, Nino, 80 Lombardi, Pietro, 46, 52 Prini, Giovanni, 82 housing, city planning, and architecture of, 107–11, 118, 140–42 Giovannoni, Gustavo (city planner), 140 see also Istituto Case Populare

numbering system of, 82, 85, 112, 133 public markets, 103–4 Fatebenefratelli Hospital, 36, 50, 78 Fellini, Federico, 77, 101 Feltrinelli, Carlo, 17, 193–94 films Accattone, 220 Caro Diario (Dear Diary), 52, 196 The Great Dictator, 65, 112 La Dolce Vita, 42, 77–79, 197 Ladri di Biciclette (The Bicycle Thief), 217–18 Lo Sciecco Bianco (The White Sheik), 101 Mille Bolle Blu (A Thousand Blue Bubbles), 111 Roman Holiday, 44, 55 The Son’s Room, 196 Una Giornata Particolare (A Special Day), 67, 118 films, information on Englishlanguage films, 195–97 Web site www.inromenow.com, 198 Flaminio neighborhood, 78, 214–18 restaurants Bistrot, 215 La Friseria, 216 Perilli al Flaminio, 214–15 Pizzeria Vignola, 216 Tiepolo, 215–16 wine bar Annibale Vini & Spiriti, 217 flea markets, 67, 145 Mercatino Conca d’Oro, 145 Porta Portese, 45, 53–55 239

INDEX Foro Italico (Foro Mussolini), 117, 134–37 forts, 150 Forte Braschi, 150 Forte Mario, 133 Forte Prenestino, 192–93 Fosse Ardeatine, 83, 87, 89, 92–93, 142 fountains Acqua Paola Fountain, 38–41 “bee” fountain, 82 Fountain of the Amphorae (Fontana delle Anfore), 45–46 Fountain of the Ponte Sisto, 35, 42 Moses Fountain, 29, 40, 76 Navicella, 29 Piazzale delle Provincie, 106 Triton Fountain, 29, 82 Quattro Fontane, 29 Frascati, 155–56, 163–69 fraschetta, 169 Frontinus, Sextus Julius (water commissioner, ancient Rome), 26 Fuksas, Massimiliano, 18, 165 Fuller, Margaret, 36 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, 188, 191 Garibaldi, Anita, 41 Garibaldi, Giuseppe, 32, 36 German Academy see academies, and Villa Massimo Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill), 32–41 Goths, 25, 27 graffiti, 140, 150–51 Gramsci, Antonio, 72 240

Gregorian calendar, 166 Guttuso, Renato, 19 Hadid, Zaha, 184 hiking see also individual itineraries in chaps. 4 and 5 with Italian groups, 174–75 Hitler, Adolf, 57, 65–67, 115, 118 Hopkins, John N. N., 48 Horace’s farm (outside Tivoli), 24 hotels Excelsior Hotel, 81 Grand Hotel de la Minerve, 227–28 Grand Hotel Palace, 80–81 Hotel Bernini Bristol (Hotel Bernini), 78 Hotel Forty-Seven, 229 Hotel Gladiatori, 230 Hotel Raphaël, 227 immigrants, 101, 149–51, 218, 220 INA (Istituto Nazionale delle Assicurazione—National Insurance Institute), 79, 81–82 Istituto Case Popolari (ICP, Institute for Popular Houses), 107, 110–11, 140–42 Istituto Luce, 32 jazz, 197–203 clubs Alexanderplatz, 201 Be Bop Jazz Blues Live Club, 202 Charity Café, 201–2 Cotton Club, 202

INDEX Il Pentagrappolo, 202 La Palma, 203 information on, 198 musicians, 198, 200 performance venues Casa del Jazz, 199–200 Parco della Musica, 198–99 Villa Celimontana, 200–201 Jewish ghetto, 50, 90, 91, 191 Jews, 90–92, 96, 141–42 sent to concentration camps, 96, 109–10 Jones, Kristin, 43 Katz, Robert, 85–86 Lake Albano, 159 Lake Nemi, 159 Largo S. Susanna, 40, 76, 78, 79 Latina, 61 Levi, Primo, 109–10 Libera, Adalberto, 70 Literary Festival, 195 MACRO, 183 MACRO Future, 46, 183 malaria, 60–62 Mambro, Francesca, 96, 104–05 March on Rome, 85 markets SPQR Mercato, 103–04 see also flea markets Mastroianni, Marcello, 67, 77 Mattatoio, l’ex, 46, 183 MAXXI, 183–84 medieval Rome, 25, 27–28, 167

Meier, Richard, 19 Monte Cassino, 62 Monte Catillo, 171, 173, 176, 178–79 map, 171–72 Monte Cavo, 131, 155–63 map, 155 Monte Gennaro, 132, 174 Monte Mario, 128–37 Monte Sacro, 140–42 and Resistance, 141–42 Monte Testaccio, 70 Moretti, Luigi, 52–53, 136 Moretti, Nanni, 52, 196–97 Moro, Aldo, 189 museums Centrale Montemartini, 75 Historical Museum of the Liberation (Museo Storico della Liberazione) (via Tasso), 83, 84, 87–92 Museo di Porta San Paolo, 68 Mussolini, Benito, 57–61, 63, 65, 69, 85, 91, 112, 134, 135–36, 142 homes of, 85, 113, 123 removed from office, 69 NAR (Nuclei Armati Rivoluzionari/Armed Revolutionary Nuclei), 96, 105 nasoni (drinking fountains), 116–17 nature walks, 130, 134, 150, 177 see also Tevere and Aniene rivers, and walking itineraries in chaps. 4 and 5 Nazis, symbols of, 67 Olympic Games (1960), 117, 134–35 Ostia Antica, 65, 73, 136 241

INDEX Ostiense train station, 64–66 Palazzo Colonna, 18 Palazzo dei Congressi, 18 Palazzo Venezia, 63 Pantheon, 51, 78, 227–28 Parco della Musica, 131, 198–99 parks, 114, 121, 124–25, 133, 139, 144, 145 Monte Mario, 128–37 Parco degli Acquedotti (Park of the Aqueducts), 24–32 Parco del Pineto, 146–51 Parco della Resistenza dell’Otto Settembre (Park of the Resistance of 8 September), 69 Villa Gregoriana (Tivoli), 170–72, 176–77 Villa Mazzanti, 131 Villa Torlonia, 121–25 Villa Doria Pamphili, 121, 127, 205 partisans, 62, 70, 72, 83–93, 159, 161–62, 206 Cavaglioni, Pino Levi, 161 see also Resistance Pasolini, Pier Paolo, 139, 220 Piacentini, Marcello, 46, 71, 73, 80, 82 Piano, Renzo, 131, 199 Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 98 Piazza Barberini, 29, 78, 82–83 Piazza Bologna neighborhood, 95–125 restaurants al Monumento (da Giulio), 118 Bistrot dei Pini, 124 242

da Enrico, 112 Limonaia, 123–24 Piazza Colonna, 58 Piazza dell’Emporio, 44 Piazza di Porta Maggiore, 25–27, 107 Piazzale Ostiense, 67–68 Pigneto neighborhood, 218–21 café Lo Yeti, 221 restaurants L’Infernotto, 220 Necci dal 1924, 220 Primo al Pigneto, 221 wine bar Il Tiaso, 221 Pirandello, Luigi, home, 120–21 Piranesi, Giovanni Battista, 50 Pontine marshes, 59–60 Pontinia, 62 popes Gregory XIII (1572–85), 166 Gregory XVI (1831–46), 173 Paul V (1605–21), 34 Pius II (1405–64), 160 Pius IX (1846–78), 37 Pius XI (1922–39), 58 Sixtus V (1585–90), 28–29, 35, 39 Urban VIII (1623–44), 37–38 popes, symbols of, 38–39 Porta Pia, 37 Porta Portese, 52 see also flea markets Porta San Pancrazio, 37, 39, 41 Porta San Paolo, 68–69, 90 prostitutes, 30, 144 Protestant cemetery, 71, 72

INDEX public housing, 107, 110, 140 see also Fascism, housing, city planning, and architecture of; and Istituto Case Popolari Pyramid, 68–69, 72 Quaroni, Ludovico, 143 Renaissance Rome, 26, 28–29, 34–35, 37–43, 82–83, 86–87, 91, 160, 164–67, 169, 172–73, 176–77 Resistance, 69, 140–41 see also partisans restaurants, information on, 209–10 see also bars and cafés, and wine bars al Monumento (da Giulio), 118 Alexanderplatz, 201 Annibale Vini & Spiriti, 217 Bistrot, 215 Casa del Cinema, 204 Casa Internazionale delle Donne, 206–7 da Enrico, 112 Dagnino, 156 fraschetta, 169 L’Infernotto, 220, 221 La Friseria, 216 La Vecchia Stalla, 56 La Zingarella, 211 Limonaia, 123–24 Mithos—La Taverna dell’Allegria, 210–11 Necci dal 1924, 220 Perilli al Flaminio, 214–15 Pizzeria La Madia, 212–13 Pizzeria Vignola, 216

Primo al Pigneto, 221 Tiepolo, 215–16 Trattoria Ada e Mario, 211–12 Risorgimento, 111 history of, 36–37 see also unification of Italy Rocca di Papa, 156–57, 159, 160, 167 Roman road, 158–60 Romanticism, 72, 159–60, 177 natura domata, 130, 177 Roma-Ostia Lido train station, 73 rooftop bars, 227–31 Grand Hotel de la Minerve, 227–28 Hotel Forty-Seven, 229–30 Hotel Gladiatori, 230–31 Hotel Raphaël, 227 Rutelli, Francesco, 106 Saarinen, Eero, 108, 143 Sabbatini, Innocenzo, 107, 110, 140 Sanfilippo, Mario, 40, 42, 51 Scala Santa, 87 Scola, Ettore, 67 scooters, 54–55 Severini, Gino, 18 shopping, 16, 101 see also markets and flea markets at Galleria Sordi, 193–94 etiquette of, 105–06 for bomboniere, 101, 103 for food, 103 for real estate, 100 for fresh pasta, 103 for wine, 103, 222–25 Trimani enoteca, 225 slaughterhouse (former), 46, 183 243

INDEX soccer Rome teams Lazio, 135 Roma, 135 Stadio Olimpico, 135 watching at Vecchio Franklin, 108–9 social centers (centri sociali), 191–93 Forte Prenestino, 192–93 Rialto Santambrogio, 191–92 Spanish Steps, 28, 184, 190, 226 SPQR, 70, 103, 112 SS Headquarters, 87–92 see also museums and via Tasso Stadio Olimpico (Olympic Stadium), 135 Stille, Alexander, 91 Taylor, Rabun, 49 Termini Station, 108 Testaccio, 46, 56 Tevere, see Tiber River Tiber Island (Isola Tiberina), 43, 49–50, 78 Tiber River, 42–52, 137, 172 boat tours, 43–44 flooding of, 48, 51 Tiburtina train station, 91, 109–10 Tivoli, 153–54, 170–73, 176–79 train tickets, buying and validating, 154 Trastevere, 42, 50–56 Tuscolo, 155, 163, 167–68 unification of Italy, 34, 36–37, 50–51, 111, 116 244

Valadier, Giuseppe, 122 Veltroni, Walter, 203 vernissages (gallery openings with extras), 185–88 via Ostiense, 73, 75 via Rasella bombing, 64, 84–86 via Tasso (prison), 83, 84, 87–92 via Veneto, 77, 79–93 Victor Emmanuel III, 65–66 Villa Adriana (near Tivoli), 170, 172 Villa Aldobrandini (Frascati), 164–65, 169 Villa Celimontana, 18 Villa d’Este (Tivoli), 170–73, 176–77 Villa Doria Pamphili, 121, 127, 205 Arco dei Quattro Venti (Arch of the Four Winds), 34, 36 Villa Falconieri (Frascati), 165–66 Villa Gregoriana (Tivoli), 170–73, 176–77 Villa Mazzanti, 131 Villa Massimo (German Academy), 114, 121, 191 see also academies Villa Medici (French Academy), 28, 190 see also academies Villa Rufinella (Villa Tuscolana) (Frascati), 169 Villa Torlonia, 121–25 Casetta delle Civette, 123 Casino dei Principi, 123 Casino Nobile (Palazzo Nobile) (Mussolini home), 122–23 Limonaia, 123–24 Villino Medievale, 124

INDEX wine bars, 222–25 aperitivo custom, 222 Al vino al vino, 222–23 Annibale Vini & Spiriti, 199, 217 Il Goccetto, 223–24 Il Tiaso, 221 Taberna Recina, 213 Trimani Il Wine Bar, 224 uve e forme, 102, 225

wine tastings, 225–26 International Wine Academy of Roma, 226 Trimani enoteca, 225 World War II, 57, 59, 141, 159, 166, 169, 178 Casa della Memoria e della Storia, 182, 206 German occupation during, 57–93, 115, 141–42, 161, 178

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