Research & Development In Textile
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Research & Development ( R & D Fabrication )
R & D Fabrication
Sampling Order Receiving from Merchandiser.
Selection of Yarn.
Knitting parameters setting.
Finishing Parameters (Samples + Production).
Samples inspection according to four point system.
Testing of samples
Checking parameters at every stage (Knitting, dyeing & finishing)
Process Flow of R & D
Sample Order
Decision of Parameter
Yarn demand Generation
Dyeing
Knitting
Yarn Procurement
Finishing
Quality & Testing
Dispatching
Sample Order (SO) Sample order consist of following
GSM of fabric.
Fabric Quality.
Fabric Composition.
Fabric Testing Standard.
Customer Remarks related to finishing.
Selection of Yarn
Type of yarn
Normal Yarn, Fancy yarn.
Normal Yarn
cotton, polyester, acrylic and nylon are normal yarn.
Fancy yarn Slub yarn, Heather yarn, Mélange yarn and lycra yarn.
Count
Number of hanks per pound is called Count. (1 hank is equal to 840 yards)
We say that if 1 pound cotton makes 1 hank, count will be 1. Or 1 pound cotton makes 2 hank, count will be 2. For Cotton: 1 Hank = 840 yards For Wool : 1 Hank =256 yards
Yarn Count Definitions
Denier ( Den) = Gram / 9000 m.
Grex
= Gram / 10,000 m.
Tex
= Gram / 1000 m.
English cotton count (Ne) = 840 yd / 1 lb or Ne = 768.1m / 453.59g Metric Count (Nm) = Meter / 1g
Count Conversion Formulae
From metric count (Nm) to others: Tex = 1000 / Nm NeB = 0.59 x Nm Den = 9000 / Nm
From denier (den) to others: Nm = 9000 / den NeB = 5315 / den Tex = 0.111 x den
Knitting Parameters Input Count Stitch length
Dia Guage
output
Gsm
Width
Relation Between Count, GSM & SL
Count
GSM, Count 20/1 22/1
GSM 200 181
It shows as “count increases, Gsm decreases”
Stitch length St.Length 0.32 0.34
GSM Gsm 200 188
Relation B/W Dia,Guage & Width Dia & Gauge œ Width:
Dia
Gauge
# of Needles
Width
30
20
1872
58“
30
24
2268
70”
34
20
2136
66”
Tightness Factor Tightness factor is a ratio between yarn diameter and its loop length in the structure. It indicates tightness or looseness of a fabric. Tightness factor does not have any units and for practical purpose its value ranges between 1.29 and 1.8. Higher value indicates a tighter fabric & lower value indicate looser fabric. Mathematically tightness factor can be expressed as under, Tightness Factor =
√Tex / Stitch length in mm
Where Tex = √ 590.5 / Count / S.L in mm (3.3) = √ 29.52 /S.L = 5.43 /S.L T.F will be = 1.64
Different methods to check GSM
By GSM cutter: GSM = gram per square meter (wt / area). GSM = Wt of cut fabric * 100
Area of cutter: Л(r²)
Dia of cutter: 113mm or 11.3cm Area = 3.14 * ( 11.3 / 2 )² =100
In case of Non-availability of GSM Cutter
GSM = Wt / Area Suppose a fabric has length 10cm and width 8cm, then Area will be:
Area of fabric = 10 x 8 = 80 cm² or
0.008 m²
Suppose wt of fabric is 2g Then GSM = 2 / 0.008 = 250
GSM = Wt / Area Area = 1/2(base × height)
Area = 1/2(10*8) = 40cm2 or 0.004m2 Suppose Wt of fabric is = 2g Then GSM will be: GSM = 2/.004 = 500
Consumption of yarn in a Knitted fabric Calculation of yarn in 3-End-Fleece with yarn composition
Yarn Count 30/1
Stitch Length
0.38
%age
0.38/30 = 0.0127
0.0127/0.0367*100=34.60% 20/1
0.28
0.28/20 = 0.014
0.014/0.0367*100=38.147% 16/1
0.16
0.16/16 = 0.01
0.01/0.0367*100=27.2479% Total yarn three loop(30/1,20/1,16/1) = 0.0367
KNITTING “ Knitting is a process in which yarn is converted into loops with the help of needles ”
Types of Knitted Fabric
Single Knit Fabric
Double Knit Fabric
Types of Single Knit Fabric
Single Jersey
Single PQ Loqast
Double PQ
2.Thread Fleece
3.Thread Fleece
Types of Double Knit Fabric
Thermal
Waffle
Rib
Interlock
Mesh
Box baby terry
Vertical feed stripe jersey
Single Jersey
Tilla Fleece
Single Jersey (Embroided)
Finishing Definition: “It is a process, To enhance the aesthetic properties of a fabric by treating with chemical and mechanical devices is called finishing”.
Types of Finishing
Chemical Finishing:
In chemical finishing, different finishes are applied on a fabric with the help of chemicals such as, Silicon finish, Stain Release, Anti-microbial finish, Resin finish etc.
Mechanical Finishing In mechanical finishing, fabric is treated with mechanical devices to impart aesthetic look/properties to the fabric such as, Peaching, Raising, Heat setting and Compacting.
Finishing Route’s To apply different finishes on a fabric, different route’s are followed in finishing .Some of them are as follow:
Stretch Dry, Compact.
Slit,Heat set,Dye/white/wash,Slit,stretch dry, Compact.
Slit,Stretch Dry,Peach,Re-stretch,Semi Dry, Tumble.
Slit,Stretch dry, compact.
Quality Control
Quality:
“Quality is a standard achieved by process to render a defect free product to the customer” To control the quality of a fabric, fabric is inspected according to Four point system. Four point system introduced by JC-penny for fabric inspection.
Faults Grading Faults in Cm
Faults in Inches
Points
0cm to 7.5cm
1 inch to 3 inch
1
7.5cm to 15cm
3 inches to 6 inches
2
15cm to 22.5cm
6 inches to 9 inches
3
Over 22.5cm
More than “9”inches in Any direction.
4
Points Allowed
Knitting Quality=Maximum 20 points allowed/100 linear yards
Finish Fabric: Maximum 40 points allowed/100 linear yard.
3 minor faults in one linear yard=1 major (Four points will be given)
How to change Kgs into Yards For Tubular: Yards =
Weight (Kgs)*43055.20 Gsm*Width*2
For Open Width: Yards= Weight(Kgs)*43055.20 Gsm*Width Points Allowed for Tubular=Total yards*0.2 or Total yards/5 Points Allowed for Open Width: =Total yards*0.4 or Total yards/2.5
Testing
After finishing, fabric is tested to ensure the quality of a fabric. Following tests are performed on a fabric according to the requirement of customer.
Shrinkage test
Torquing
Colour Fastness to Light, Water, Washing & Perspiration.
Bursting Strength
Pilling Test
Flammability
Dispatching
After ensure the quality & testing of a fabric, fabric is dispatched to Apparel Division.
Presented by:
Abdul Rouf Deputy Manager Research & Development
R & D Fabrication
Sampling Order Receiving from Merchandiser.
Selection of Yarn.
Knitting parameters setting.
Finishing Parameters (Samples + Production).
Samples inspection according to four point system.
Testing of samples
Checking parameters at every stage (Knitting, dyeing & finishing)
Process Flow of R & D
Sample Order
Decision of Parameter
Yarn demand Generation
Dyeing
Knitting
Yarn Procurement
Finishing
Quality & Testing
Dispatching
Sample Order (SO) Sample order consist of following
GSM of fabric.
Fabric Quality.
Fabric Composition.
Fabric Testing Standard.
Customer Remarks related to finishing.
Selection of Yarn
Type of yarn
Normal Yarn, Fancy yarn.
Normal Yarn
cotton, polyester, acrylic and nylon are normal yarn.
Fancy yarn Slub yarn, Heather yarn, Mélange yarn and lycra yarn.
Count
Number of hanks per pound is called Count. (1 hank is equal to 840 yards)
We say that if 1 pound cotton makes 1 hank, count will be 1. Or 1 pound cotton makes 2 hank, count will be 2. For Cotton: 1 Hank = 840 yards For Wool : 1 Hank =256 yards
Yarn Count Definitions
Denier ( Den) = Gram / 9000 m.
Grex
= Gram / 10,000 m.
Tex
= Gram / 1000 m.
English cotton count (Ne) = 840 yd / 1 lb or Ne = 768.1m / 453.59g Metric Count (Nm) = Meter / 1g
Count Conversion Formulae
From metric count (Nm) to others: Tex = 1000 / Nm NeB = 0.59 x Nm Den = 9000 / Nm
From denier (den) to others: Nm = 9000 / den NeB = 5315 / den Tex = 0.111 x den
Knitting Parameters Input Count Stitch length
Dia Guage
output
Gsm
Width
Relation Between Count, GSM & SL
Count
GSM, Count 20/1 22/1
GSM 200 181
It shows as “count increases, Gsm decreases”
Stitch length St.Length 0.32 0.34
GSM Gsm 200 188
Relation B/W Dia,Guage & Width Dia & Gauge œ Width:
Dia
Gauge
# of Needles
Width
30
20
1872
58“
30
24
2268
70”
34
20
2136
66”
Tightness Factor Tightness factor is a ratio between yarn diameter and its loop length in the structure. It indicates tightness or looseness of a fabric. Tightness factor does not have any units and for practical purpose its value ranges between 1.29 and 1.8. Higher value indicates a tighter fabric & lower value indicate looser fabric. Mathematically tightness factor can be expressed as under, Tightness Factor =
√Tex / Stitch length in mm
Where Tex = √ 590.5 / Count / S.L in mm (3.3) = √ 29.52 /S.L = 5.43 /S.L T.F will be = 1.64
Different methods to check GSM
By GSM cutter: GSM = gram per square meter (wt / area). GSM = Wt of cut fabric * 100
Area of cutter: Л(r²)
Dia of cutter: 113mm or 11.3cm Area = 3.14 * ( 11.3 / 2 )² =100
In case of Non-availability of GSM Cutter
GSM = Wt / Area Suppose a fabric has length 10cm and width 8cm, then Area will be:
Area of fabric = 10 x 8 = 80 cm² or
0.008 m²
Suppose wt of fabric is 2g Then GSM = 2 / 0.008 = 250
GSM = Wt / Area Area = 1/2(base × height)
Area = 1/2(10*8) = 40cm2 or 0.004m2 Suppose Wt of fabric is = 2g Then GSM will be: GSM = 2/.004 = 500
Consumption of yarn in a Knitted fabric Calculation of yarn in 3-End-Fleece with yarn composition
Yarn Count 30/1
Stitch Length
0.38
%age
0.38/30 = 0.0127
0.0127/0.0367*100=34.60% 20/1
0.28
0.28/20 = 0.014
0.014/0.0367*100=38.147% 16/1
0.16
0.16/16 = 0.01
0.01/0.0367*100=27.2479% Total yarn three loop(30/1,20/1,16/1) = 0.0367
KNITTING “ Knitting is a process in which yarn is converted into loops with the help of needles ”
Types of Knitted Fabric
Single Knit Fabric
Double Knit Fabric
Types of Single Knit Fabric
Single Jersey
Single PQ Loqast
Double PQ
2.Thread Fleece
3.Thread Fleece
Types of Double Knit Fabric
Thermal
Waffle
Rib
Interlock
Mesh
Box baby terry
Vertical feed stripe jersey
Single Jersey
Tilla Fleece
Single Jersey (Embroided)
Finishing Definition: “It is a process, To enhance the aesthetic properties of a fabric by treating with chemical and mechanical devices is called finishing”.
Types of Finishing
Chemical Finishing:
In chemical finishing, different finishes are applied on a fabric with the help of chemicals such as, Silicon finish, Stain Release, Anti-microbial finish, Resin finish etc.
Mechanical Finishing In mechanical finishing, fabric is treated with mechanical devices to impart aesthetic look/properties to the fabric such as, Peaching, Raising, Heat setting and Compacting.
Finishing Route’s To apply different finishes on a fabric, different route’s are followed in finishing .Some of them are as follow:
Stretch Dry, Compact.
Slit,Heat set,Dye/white/wash,Slit,stretch dry, Compact.
Slit,Stretch Dry,Peach,Re-stretch,Semi Dry, Tumble.
Slit,Stretch dry, compact.
Quality Control
Quality:
“Quality is a standard achieved by process to render a defect free product to the customer” To control the quality of a fabric, fabric is inspected according to Four point system. Four point system introduced by JC-penny for fabric inspection.
Faults Grading Faults in Cm
Faults in Inches
Points
0cm to 7.5cm
1 inch to 3 inch
1
7.5cm to 15cm
3 inches to 6 inches
2
15cm to 22.5cm
6 inches to 9 inches
3
Over 22.5cm
More than “9”inches in Any direction.
4
Points Allowed
Knitting Quality=Maximum 20 points allowed/100 linear yards
Finish Fabric: Maximum 40 points allowed/100 linear yard.
3 minor faults in one linear yard=1 major (Four points will be given)
How to change Kgs into Yards For Tubular: Yards =
Weight (Kgs)*43055.20 Gsm*Width*2
For Open Width: Yards= Weight(Kgs)*43055.20 Gsm*Width Points Allowed for Tubular=Total yards*0.2 or Total yards/5 Points Allowed for Open Width: =Total yards*0.4 or Total yards/2.5
Testing
After finishing, fabric is tested to ensure the quality of a fabric. Following tests are performed on a fabric according to the requirement of customer.
Shrinkage test
Torquing
Colour Fastness to Light, Water, Washing & Perspiration.
Bursting Strength
Pilling Test
Flammability
Dispatching
After ensure the quality & testing of a fabric, fabric is dispatched to Apparel Division.
Presented by:
Abdul Rouf Deputy Manager Research & Development
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