Report On Industrial Training

Report On Industrial Training Of Sinha Textile Group (Research & Development) COURSE NO : TEX-500 . NAME OF THE STUDENT :● SIRAJUM MUNIR

ROLL: 03.01.06.019

4TH YEAR 2ND SEMESTER , FALL – 2006

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

Report On Industrial Training Of Sinha Textile Group (Research & Development) SUPERVISED BY :-

* PROF. DR. MUSTAFIZUR RAHMAN . HEAD, DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY .

* ABU SYEED ATIQUZZAMAN . Asst. Prof. , DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY .

4TH YEAR 2ND SEMESTER , FALL – 2006

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT A number of people have made significant contributions to the preparation of this report . Their insights , advice and suggestions helped us a lot. Firstly, I am very much thankful to our head of the department Prof. Dr. Mustafizur Rahman for his encouragement and valuable suggestions for incessant improvement of the report. I would also like to thank Prof. Dr. Mahbubul Haque & Mr.Abu Syeed Atiquzzaman for all necessary information delivery as well as for many technical help. I would like to express my sincere gratitude & appreciation to Mr. Sorwar Mohi Alam, Director (Technical),Sinha Textile Group. My heartfelt thanks to him for allowing me to perform my industrial attachment in the Sinha Textile Group. I am also very greatful to Mr. Bala Chandra, Head of Research & Development department & to Mr. Shakawat Hossain, Deputy General Manager(Technical) of SDFL, Quality Assurance, for their guidance, encouragement & keen interest in delivering thoughtful advice during the period of industrial training Finally I want to thank Mr. Saiful Islam, Senior Production Officer, R&D department for his enormous support as well as all Managers & Assistant Managers for helping to get proper information about every section during industrial training.

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CONTENTS Topic

Page Number

Introduction Brief Description Of Textile General Information About Factory Layout Of Different Section Product Mix & Their Sequence Of Operation Daily Production Of Different Unit Quality Management System Machines & Equipments Wastage Of Different Unit Inspection Of Fabric By 4 Point System Social & Environmental Information Research & Development About Research & Development Basic Flowchart Of Research & Development Layout Of R&D Department Organogram Of R&D Manpower Of R&D List Of Buyers Fabric Types Some Fabric Constructions Details Of R&D Work Required Formulas For R&D Work Required Formats For R&D Works Example Of A Program Program Sheet For Solid Dyed Product Development Fabric Swatches Of Different Design & Construction My Achievement Conclusion 4

♦INTRODUCTION:Textile technology education is based on industrial ground. Theoretical background is not sufficient so, industrial training is an essential part of study to make a technologist technically sound in this field. Industrial training provides us that opportunity to gather practical knowledge. Sinha Textile Group is a truly integrated undertaking. The textile division has the capability to offer a complete product range for the export & domestic textile markets. The goal of the textile division is to become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics & clothing from Bangladesh. With high advanced technology & an emphasis on developing local human resources, the textile division has the potential to make an important contribution to the nation’s growing ready made garments export sector. The rational behind the existing structure & future expansion of the textile division is to capture value added at each stage of the textile manufacturing process. Despite Bangladesh’s lack of indigenous cotton production capability, STG has leveraged Bangladesh’s labor cost advantage & export competitiveness to maximum level.

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♦BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF TEXTILE:The term ‘Textile’ means originally a woven fabric, but textile & the plural textiles are now also applied to fibre, filament & yarn. Natural & manufactured & most products for which these are a particular raw material. This definition embraces, for example fibre- based products in the following categories: threads, cords, ropes & braids; woven, knitted & non woven fabrics, lace, nets & embroidery; hosiery knitwear & made up apparels; household textiles, soft furnishing & upholstery; carpets & other floor coverings; technical, industrial & engineering textiles include geo textiles & medical textiles. Some necessary terms in textile processing & production are given belowFIBRE: Textile raw materials generally characterized by fineness, Flexibility & high ratio of length to thickness. YARN: A product of substantial length & relatively small cross section consisting of fibre(s) and/or filament(s) with or without twist. FABRIC: A manufactured assembly of fibres and/or yarns that has substantial surface area in relation to its thickness & sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful mechanical strength. Common processes of fabric manufacturing are weaving, knitting & non woven. Weaving: The action of producing fabric by Interlacing of warp & weft threads. b) Knitting: The process of manufacturing of fabric by the intermeshing of loops of yarn. c) Non-woven: The process of producing of fabrics by chemical bonding of fibres. a)

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•NAME OF FACTORY:

Sinha Textile Group (STG).

•OWNER OF THE MILL: Mr. Anisur Rahman Sinha. •LOCATION OF MILL:

Kanchpur, Sonargaon, Narayanganj.

•HEAD OFFICE:

House No. 363 Road No. 02 New DOHS, Mohakhali, Dhaka-1206.

•COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION: 1997. •BUSSINESS LINE: Manufacturing & Marketing of high quality yarn & fabric. •TOTAL PRODUCTION: ton/day( knit.)

50000-70000 m/day.(woven) 15

•TOTAL TURNOVER: •VISION: Building a true marketing led enterprise with motivated workforce, innovative vision, strong revenue based product portfolio, customer satisfaction & understanding of global market. •MISSION: Each of the activities must benefit & add value to the common wealth of our society. We firmly believe that, in the final analysis we are accountable to each of the constituents with whom we interact; namely our employees, our customers, our business associates, our fellow, citizens & our shareholders.

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♦TOTAL MANPOWER & SECTION-WISE MANPOWER:Sinha Textile Group is running with strong manpower in total. Every section of STG has sufficient manpower to ensure it’s smooth running of production in every shift. Total manpower & section-wise manpower of some sections of Sinha Textile Group those are related with R&D work is given below. •TOTAL MANPOWER:UNIT Sinha Rotor Spinning Ltd. Sinha Yarn Dyeing & Fabrics Ltd. Sinha Dyeing & Finishing Ltd. Power Generation & Utility Administration Accounts Security

MANPOWER 748 1533 301 232 156 20 69

•SECTION-WISE MANPOWER:As I completed my industrial training on Research & Development department so here I am giving the section-wise manpower of those sections which are directly connected with the work of R&D department. These sections are Sinha Rotor Spinning Ltd(SRSL), Sinha Yarn Dyeing & Fabrics Ltd.(SYDFL) & finally of Sinha Dyeing & Finishing Ltd(SDFL). Section-wise manpower is given below one by one.

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∗MANPOWER OF SRSL:SECTION Blowroom Carding Breaker Drawframe Finisher Drawframe Simplex Ring frame Winding Comber Autoconer Lap Former Quality Control Testing Laboratory Maintenance Administration Store Accounts

MANPOWER 70 15 24 10 40 210 120 10 120 09 09 15 15 18 12 07

∗ MANPOWER OF SYDFL:SECTION Central Sizing-1 Sizing-2 Somet-1 Somet-2 Picanol Toyota Yarn Dyeing Store Accounts

MANPOWER 21 74 39 205 191 322 84 458 32 07 10

∗MANPOWER OF YARN DYEING SECTION:SECTION Soft Winding Batch Preparation Dyeing Hydro-extraction Drying Random Winding Packing & Delivery Quality Control Testing Laboratory Maintenance Store

MANPOWER 92 24 64 26 38 118 29 18 15 27 17

∗MANPOWER OF SDFL:SECTION Pre-treatment Dyeing Finishing Printing Inspection & Rolling Quality Control Testing Laboratory Maintenance Accounts Store

MANPOWER 66 63 57 27 22 14 12 32 06 08

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♦ MANAGEMENT ORGANOGRAM:Chairman Director Deputy General Manager/ Executive Director

Prod. Quality Maint. Utility Store Accounts Admin. Marketing Security Prod. Mngr

Quality Mngr.

Maint. Utility Store Accounts Admin. Mngr. Mngr. Mngr. Mngr. Mngr.

Marketing Mngr.

Security Officer

Assist. Mngr

Senior Officer

Maint. Utility Senior Accounts Admin. Engr. Engr. Officer Officer Officer

Marketing Officer

Assist. Officer

Senior Sub Officer Cashier Prod. Officer Foreman Assist. Officer Engr. Helper Prod. Lab. Officer Assist.

Fitter

Assist. Prod. Officer

Helper

Lab. Boy

Assist. Admin. Officer.

Security Guard

Worker Worker

Worker

M/c Operator Helper Worker

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13

LAYOUT OF SINHA YARN DYEING UNIT

S

R

E

C

B*

M*

E*

W*

R

R

P

D*

H

S F

F

H P

A

L

D* S EXIT

S

E*

L* 14

SINHA YARN DYEING UNIT:Here, A- Mechanical Section. B- Office In Charge’s Room. C- File Store. D- Dyeing Unit. E- Electronic Board. F- Radio Frequency Dryer. H- Hydro-extractor. L- Packaging & Delivery Section. M- Manager’s Room. P- Pressing Machine. R- Random Winding Section. S- Dyes & Chemical Store. W- Soft Winding Section. Emergency Exit Way. - Fire Extinguisher. Note: * Indicates Upstair.

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LAYOUT OF WEAVING UNIT (TOYOTA)

EB-1

EB-2

Y

EB-3

N

N

L-22

L-1

L-20

L-21

L-23

L-24

L-2

L-18

L-19

L-25

L-26

L-3

L-16

L-17

L-27

L-28

L-4

L-14

L-15

L-29

L-30

L-5

L-12

L-13

L-31

L-32

L-6

L-10

L-11

L-33

L-34

L-7

L-8

L-9

L-35

L-36

EXIT

M

T

P

S

A B C EXIT 16

WEAVING UNIT(TOYOTA):Here, A- Mending Area. B- Weavers Beam Area. C- Time Keeper’s Zone. EB – Electrical Board. LLoom. M- Manager’s Room. N- New Loom. P- Mechanical Room. SOil & Grease Store. TToilet. Y- Yarn Store. Emergency Exit Way. - Fire Extinguisher. - Column

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LAYOUT OF SIZING-2 EXIT

Y

B

D

C A

S

M

EXIT 18

SIZING UNIT(SIZING-2):Here, A- Chemical Kitchen. B- Warpers Beam Area. C- Cone Winding Machine. D- Direct Warping Machine M- Compressor Machine. S- Sizing Machine. Y- Yarn Store. - Emergency Exit Way. - Fire Extinguisher. - Column.

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LAYOUT OF SIZING-1

S

D

E

C

B

A

A

S

L E

EXIT

20

SIZING UNIT (SIZING-1):Here, ABCDELS-

Sizing Machine. Chemical Kitchen. Cone Winding Machine. Direct Warping Machine. Exit. Lizing Area. Sectional Warping Machine. -Emergency Exit Way. -Fire Extinguisher. -Column.

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LAYOUT OF WEAVING SECTION (SOMET-2) PB

AC-1

AC-2

TK

EXIT

EXIT

L 62

L 64

L 66

L 68

L 70

L 72

L 74

L 76

L 78

L 80

L 61

L 63

L 65

L 67

L 69

L 71

L 73

L 75

L 77

L 79

L 42

L 44

L 46

L 48

L 50

L 52

L 54

L 56

L 58

L 60

L 41

L 43

L 45

L 47

L 49

L 51

L 53

L 55

L 57

L 59

WB

F I I M

L 22

L 24

L 26

L 28

L 30

L 32

L 34

L 36

L 38

L 40

L 21

L 23

L 25

L 27

L 29

L 31

L 33

L 35

L 37

L 39

L 2

L 4

L 6

L 8

L 10

L 12

L 14

L 16

L 18

L 20

L 1

L 3

L 5

L 7

L 9

L 11

L 13

L 15

L 17

L 19

EXIT

T

S

MR

ER

O

M M M

EXIT 22

WEAVING UNIT (SOMET-2):Here, PB - Panel Board Room. AC - AC Plant. TK - Time Keepers Place. WB - Weavers Beam Area. F - Folding Machine. I - Inspection Machine. L - Loom. M - Mending Table. O - Manager’s Room. ER - Electrical Room. MR - Mechanical Room. S - Store. T - Toilet. - Emergency Exit Way. - Fire Extinguisher. - Column.

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LAYOUT OF WEAVING SECTION (SOMET-1)

L-5

L-4

L-3

L-2

L-1

L-6

L-7

L-8

L-9

L-10

L-15

L-14

L-13

L-12

L-11

L-16

L-17

L-18

L-19

L-20

L-25

L-24

L-23

L-22

L-21

L-26

L-27

L-28

L-29

L-30

L-35

L-34

L-33

L-32

L-31

L-36

L-37

L-38

L-39

L-40

E

E

L-46

L-45

L-44

L-43

L-42

L-41

L-47

L-48

L-49

L-50

L-51

L-52

D

C

A

C

B

M

I

I

I

I

I

T 24

E

WEAVING SECTION (SOMET-1):Here, A B C D E I L MT -

AC Plant. Office Room. Inspection Machine. Folding Machine. Exit. Inspection Table. Loom. Main Power. Time Keeper’s Area. Emergency Exit Way. Fire Extinguisher. Column.

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LAYOUT OF SINHA DYEING & FINISHING LIMITED

FFS

MM

EXIT

F F F 1 2 3

T

EM

RFS

P E 1

D

GFS

A

A

B

B

1

I C

K

H

S S S 1 2 3

R

L

E 2

D 2

E

PS

DR

QC

TL

CR

DT

Pr.M DM AdM SPZ

ST 26

SINHA DYEING & FINISHING LIMITED:Here, A- Singeing & Desizing Machine. B- Continuous Scouring & Bleaching Machine. C- Mercerizing Machine. D1- Thermosol Dyeing Machine. D2- Pad Steam Machine. E1- Electrolyte Control Dyeing Machine. E2- Washing Machine. P- Screen Printing Machine. K- Colour Kitchen. L- Loop Steamer. S- Stenter Machine. F- Sanforising Machine. IBrush Machine. H- Piech Machine. R- Raising Machine. T- Inspection & Rolling Machine. FFS – Finished Fabric Store. MR – Mechanical Room. ER - Electrical Room. RFS – R&D Fabric Store. GFS – Grey Fabric Store. PS - Printing Section. DR – Design Room. QC – Quality Control Section. TL – Textile Testing Laboratory CR – Conference Room. DT – Director(Technical) Room. Pr.M- Printing Manager’s Room. DM – Dyeing Manager’s Room. AdM- Administration Manager. SPZ – Spare Parts Zone. – Emergency Exit Way ST - Staff Toilet. - Fire Extinguisher. 27

LAYOUT OF SINHA ROTOR SPINNING LIMITED

G

H H

B

E

I

EXIT

UL

C

RM

M T

P

S R

BD

CO BD

B UL

FD C

R

S

BD

FD BD

FD

RO

A 28

SINHA ROTOR SPINNING LIMITED:Here, A- Autoconer. B- Blowroom Section. C- Carding Section. E- Emergency Exit. G- Suction Device. H- AC Plant 2. I- Maintenance Room. M- Manager’s Room. T- Toilet P- Chiller. S- Simplex Section. R- Ringframe Section. BD- Breaker Drawframe. FD- Finisher DrawFrame. RM- Raw Material. UL- Uni Lap Former. CO- Combing Section. RO- Rotor Section. - Emergency Exit Way. - Fire Extinguisher. 29

LAY OUT OF PICANOL UNIT Gate-2 Sizing Time Office Maintenance room

Reed

Gate-1 A. C.

P L A N T

Electrical Room Workers Toilet

Manager Room Stuff Toilet

30

= Machine = Column = Fire extinguisher = Fire alarm = First aid box = Exit way = Non hazards waste

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♦RAW MATERIAL FOR SPINNING:Sinha Rotor Spinning Limited uses two types of raw materials, - Cotton. - Spandex. The following types of cotton fibres are being imported by the spinning section, Raw Cotton CIS TANZIN GIZA PIMA SUDAN SHANKAR

Staple Length 1 1/8 1 1/32 1 1/32 1 7/16 1 3/8 1 1/8

Country Uzbeaykistan Tanzania Egypt U.S.A Sudan India

♦PRODUCT RANGE FOR WEAVING:In the Sinha Textile Group weaving mechanism is producing many types of designed fabric. The most common designs that is produced in the woven fabric are given below, -

Plain. Normal Twill.(2/1,3/1) Broken Twill. Sateen.(5 ends) Satin.(5 ends) Herringbone.(2/1 Twill, 3/1 Twill) Slub. Bedford cord. 33

•SOLID DYED FABRIC: Product range for woven fabric which are commonly solid dyed further given below, -Poplin. -Canvas. -Ottoman. -Oxford. -Rib stop. -Pinpoint. -Boxy. -Seersuckers. - Lycra

•YARN DYED FABRIC: Product range for woven fabric which are commonly yarn dyed further given below, -Gingham. -Fil-a-fil. -Oxford. -Ottoman -Lycra. -Stripe. -Pinpoint. -Dobby. -Chambrays. - Seersuckers.

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♦ SEQUENCE OF OPERATION OF SPINNING: CARD PROCESS Blowroom

COMB PROCESS Blowroom

Carding

Carding

Breaker Drawing

Breaker Drawing

Finisher Drawing

Lap Former

Simplex

Comber

Ringframe Winding

Finisher Drawing Simplex Ringframe

ROTOR PROCESS Blowroom

Winding

Carding Breaker Drawing Finisher Drawing 35

Rotor ♦SEQUENCE OF OPERATION OF WEAVING: Winding Warping Direct Warping

Sectional Warping

Sizing Drawing & Denting

Knotting

Looming Weaving Unwind the fabric from cloth roller Mending Inspection 36

Folding

Packing

Delivery

♦SEQUENCE OF OPERATION OF PROCESING:

•WOVEN DYEINGInspection of grey goods Shearing & Cropping Singeing & Desizing Continuous Scouring & Bleaching Souring Washing Drying Mercerizing Dyeing Washing

Printing Loop Steaming Finishing

Inspection & Rolling 37

Packing

Delivery

•PROCESSING OF YARN DYED FABRICInspection Shearing & Cropping Singeing & Desizing Washing Finishing Inspection & Rolling Packing Delivery

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♦SEQUENCE OF OPERATION OF YARN DYEING:

Grey Yarn Soft Winding Batch Preparation Scouring & Bleaching Washing Dyeing Soaping Neutralization Softening & Fixing Washing Hydro-extraction Drying 39

Random Winding Packing

Delivery

♦DAILY PRODUCTION OF DIFFERENT UNIT:•SINHA ROTOR SPINNING LIMITED: Daily Production : 15 ton. Ring Production : 10 ton/day. Rotor Production : 05 ton/day. •SINHA YARN

DYEING & FINISHING LIMITED:

→Weaving Unit: Picanol Section : 25530m-27250m.(60 ppm). Toyota Section : 12300m (60 ppm). Somet 1 Section : 13115m (60 ppm). Somet 2 Section : 18280 m (60 ppm). →Yarn Dyeing Unit: Soft Winding : 15 ton/day. Daily Production : 10 ton.

•SINHA DYEING & FINISHING LIMITED:Woven Dyed Fabric: 45000m/day. Yarn Dyed Fabric : 10000m/day. Printed Fabric : 20000m/day.

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The Quality Management of Sinha Textile Group is done by the Quality Assurance Department. Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material in process & various stages of it’s manufacturing. Normally the objects of quality control are, - Planned Research & Development Process. - Judicious Selection Of Raw Materials. - Process Control. Sinha Textile Group has strong Quality Assurance Department in every unit to ensure the best quality of production. STG follows internal quality management system. The quality standards of STG are ISO, OEKO TEX. Scope of quality control, quality assurance & testing laboratory-

Testing Laboratory. Machineries Auditing System. A Good Training System. Excellent Analytical Back-up. Technical Expertise.

In the weaving areas the quality managements carried out by the technical experience of the quality assurance team through daily On-line & Off line check. The daily on-line & off-line check that is carried out is given below.

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The daily on-line check is done by following checking, -

Construction of fabric. Total ends of fabric. Reed Count. Reed Space. Fabric Width. Weft Count. Ends Per Inch. Picks Per Inch. Design Of Fabric Ends Per Dent. Selvedge Width.

The daily off line check is done by following checking, -

Tensile Strength. Tearing Strength. Shrinkage Of Fabric. Abrasion Resistance. Pilling Resistance. Thermal Stability. Stretch Ability & Growth Recovery. Smoothness Of Fabric Surface. Appearance Of Fabric GSM Of Fabric. 43

In the spinning section the quality of product mainly depends on the following points of product, -

Type Of Fibre. Staple Length. Neps. Evenness. Strength. Elongation. Count. Twist. Trash. Noil. Slubs etc.

In the spinning section of Sinha Textile Group,the quality control is done by the quality assurance department by maintaining the quality in different major areas of spinning process. This is given below, Blowroom section:- Cleaning Intensity - Relative Waste Amount. - Commercial Staple Length. - Recycling on/off. Carding section:- Sliver Weight. - Production. - Cylinder Speed. 44

Breaker Drawframe:- Sliver Weight. - Draft Gear. - Roller Setting - Speed. - Doubling. Finisher Drawframe:- Sliver Weight. - Draft Gear. - Roller Setting. - Speed. - Doubling Simplex Section:- Hank - Draft Change Pinion. - Speed. - Twist Per Inch. - Winding length. Ringframe Section:- Count. - Twist Per Inch. - Total Draft. - Speed. Winding Section:- Count. - Lot - Speed. - Winding Length. - Classimet Setting.

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In the case of wet processing there are some major areas where process control & quality control both are very essential. Considering this fact Sinha Textile Group always do both process & quality control in some major steps of wet processing. These are given below. Major areas of process & quality control in wet processing Process Control - Grey Inspection. - Desizing. - Scouring. - Bleaching. - Mercerizing. - Dyeing. - Printing. - Finishing. - Final Inspection.

Quality Control Raw Materials

Processed Materials

-Dyes. . -Desized goods. -Chemicals. -Scoured goods. -Auxiliaries -Bleached goods -Mercerized goods. - Dyed goods. -Printed goods. -Finished goods.

In this way maintaining the quality management system, quality control is done by the quality assurance department of individual sections of Sinha Textile Group in order to ensure the better quality of products.

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♦MACHINERIES OF SINHA ROTOR SPINNING LIMITED:-

Type Of M/C Uni-flock Uni-clean Uni-mix Uni-flex Carding Breaker Drawing Finisher Drawing Lap Former Comber Simplex Simplex Ringframe Winding Winding Winding Rotor

Model

Manufacturer Origin

Quantity

A-11 B-11 B-7/3 B-60 C-51 SB-2

Rieter Rieter Rieter Rieter Rieter Rieter

Switzerland Switzerland Switzerland Switzerland Switzerland Switzerland

02 02 02 02 21 05

RSB D-30

Rieter

Switzerland

08

E-32 E-62 FL-100 RM-670 G-33 7-V 21-C Autocone338 R-20

Rieter Rieter Toyota Zinser Rieter Muratec Muratec Schlaforst Rieter

Switzerland Switzerland Japan Germany Switzerland Japan Japan Germany Switzerland

02 10 05 03 28 07 01 01 04

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♦MACHINERIES OF SINHA YARN DYEING & FABRICS LIMITED:•MACHINERIES OF SINHA YARN DYEING LTD.:Type Of M/C Soft Winding

Manufacturer SSM, Fadis.

Batch Preparation Dyeing

Scholl Scholl, Galvanin. Hydro-extractor Scholl Radio Frequency Stallam, Dryer Strayfeild. Hard Winding SSM, Fadis.

Origin Quantity Switzerland, 09 Italy Switzerland 02 Switzerland, 21 Italy. Switzerland 02 England, 02 Italy. Switzerland, 09 Italy

•MACHINERIES OF SINHA FABRICS LTD.:Type Of M/C Re-coning or Winding Direct Warping Sectional Warping Sizing Weaving

Manufacturer Model Gao 14 MD

Origin China

Quantity 02

Benninger Benninger

BENTEX BENTEX

Germany Germany

02 02

Benninger Picanol

Germany Belgium

03 86

Weaving Weaving

Toyota Somet

BENTEX Delta, Delta X, OMNI JAT-710 Thema

Japan Italy

36 132 49

Excel

♦MACHINERIES OF SINHA DYEING & FINISHING LIMITED:Type Of M/C Singeing & Desizing Singeing & Desizing Scouring & Bleaching Scouring & Bleaching Mercerizing Pad Thermosol M/C Pad Steam M/C Pad Dry Steam M/C Washing M/C Printing M/C Loop Steamer Stenter M/C Stenter M/C Stenter M/C Sanforizing M/C Piech M/C Piech M/C Brush M/C Raising M/C

Manufacturer Parey Mather

Origin Belgium

Quantity 01

Germany

01

Benninger

Switzerland

01

Kuster

Germany

01

Sir James Farmer Norton Monforts Thermex

England

01

Germany

01

Benninger Monforts Thermex 6500 B-C-C. Kuster Stork Stork Morison Monforts Montex Icomatex Monforts Montex Gessener Santex Denti-Paoloe Santex

Switzerland Germany

01 01

Germany Holland Holland Germany Germany Spain Germany Italy Italy Italy Italy

01 01 01 01 01 01 03 02 02 01 01

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♦Wastage Of Spinning Unit:Section Blowroom Carding Breaker Draw Frame Finisher Draw Frame Lap Former Comber Simplex Ring Frame Auto Coner

Amount Of Wastage 4% 3% 0.5%

Wastage As Dust, Dirt & Trash Dust, Dirt & Trash Sliver

0.5%

Sliver

0.5% 12%-20% 0.5% 1% 2.5%

Sliver Noil, Lap, Sliver Sliver Roving, Hard Waste,Pneumafil Hard Waste

♦Wastage Of Yarn Dyeing Unit:Section Amount Of Wastage Soft Winding 0.2% - 0.5% Pretreatment, Dyeing 3.0% - 3.5% & After treatment Hard Winding 0.5% - 1%

Wastage As Hard Waste Weight Loss Hard Waste

♦Wastage Of Warping Section:52

In the warping section wastage is mainly the left over yarns. This amount is normally 1200mm per package that is almost 6%.

♦Wastage Of Sizing Section:In the sizing area wastage comes mainly from the portion of yarn sheet that is being kept as backing after completion of sizing for easy passing of the next beam’s yarn sheet through the sizing machine. So, wastage comes mainly from two portion. That is from unsized yarn sheet & sized yarn sheet. -For Yarn dyed beam the amount of waste is approx. 20m. -For Grey beam the amount of waste is approx. 30m.

♦Wastage Of Weaving Unit:In the weaving unit waste comes from warp yarn & weft yarn. At first, during running of loom some portion of wastage is there due to different fabric faults. Then after weaving some fabric is being kept as backing, that portion is wasted. Weft yarn that goes over filling length, that portion is cut & this amount is waste portion. Due to friction of warp yarn with heald eye & reed some fibre flies, that is wastage. During every weaving operation 12 yarns of the warp length is waste. So some amount of wastage of weaving unit is given below from practical observation. - During running of weaving of fabric 10 m warp yarn wastage with some portion of weft yarn. - After completing the weaving approximately 3m-4m warp yarn wastage that remains for backing. - 80 mm of each weft yarn is waste that is over the filling length. 53

- Except these 0.2% other wastage are involved as fly and as hard waste during every filling stop.

♦Wastage Of Processing Unit:In the processing unit the amount of waste is given depending on the liquid waste that means water & chemical wastage. The amount of waste is given here for certain length of fabric processing & this amount is very high because there is no recovery system is available. Process

Production Hour

Water Consumption Rate (m3/hr)

Effluent Discharge Rate (m3/hr)

Total Water Consumption (m3)

Total Effluent Dischaged (m3)

Waste %

Singeing & Desizing

8 8 8 8 8 8

1.5 12.5 8.0 11.5 9.5 1.1

0.2 11.5 7.0 10.5 8.5 0.2

12 100 64 92 76 8.8

1.6 92 56 84 68 1.6

13.33 92 87.5 91.3 89.47 18.18

Scoring & Bleaching Mercerizing Dyeing Washing Finishing

•Comments:From the above information we see that the amount of wastage varies from section to section. We must should develop the accuracy of different process to reduce the amount of wastage. In case of processing we should introduce a system that may help to recover few portion of water & chemical so that the amount of this huge percentage of waste can be minimized.

54

♦INSPECTION OF FABRIC BY 4 POINT SYSTEM:• Fabric Inspection:The inspection of fabric is a procedure by which the defects of fabric are identified and fabric is classified according to degree or intensity of defects. In Sinha Textile Group the fabric inspection is done by 4 point inspection system. The details of it given below. Yarn fault Thick/thin

Penalty points

Slub

The yarn is thick/thin than normal 1 to yarn 4 Bunch of fiber in the yarn 1

Coarser yarn

Thicker than normal yarn

Uneven yarn Contamination Neps

1 to 4 Thick/thin yarn continuously at 1 to random interval in yarn. 4 Jute, hair color fiber etc. foreign fiber 1 presence in the yarn/fabric. Entanglement of fiber in the yarn 1

55

Weaving fault Warp way

Penalty points

Missing yarn

1 or more yarn missed from the 1 to 4 cloth. Float No interlacement of warp and 1 to 4 weft. Stitches/Warp 1 or more warp yarn not properly 1 to 4 float interlaced with weft for some distance. Double end 1 extra warp yarn woven along 1 to with regular warp yarn. 4/Reject more than 1 yd. Tight/Loose 1 or more warp yarn having more “ warp tight/loose than normal yarn. Wrong drawing Warp yarn wrongly drawn through “ heald wire. Wrong denting Warp yarn wrongly drawn in the “ reed. (Line mark visible in the warp way) Reed mark Reed is having more gap than the “ normal. (Warp way line mark visible) Bad leno Lino yarn broken & loom not Segregate separately bending stopped few cm Temple mark Along with temple 1 or more pin 1 to 4/ Reject mark visible. 56

Temple cut hole

Along with temple 1 or more weft yarn cut by temple pin. Ball formation Due to improper sizing, warp fluff forms as a ball and woven in the cloth. Multiple warp More than three warp broken. back Weft way Crack

4/ Reject

1 1 to 2

Penalty points More than 3 pick missing gap on weft way.

1 to 4/ Reject

Starting mark Thick place Broken pick Double pick Slough off/Snarling Weft loops Generated fluff/gout Size particles Short/Drop pick Reverse pick

more than 1 yd. 1 or 2 pick missing or no gap on weft 4 way only line mark visible. 1 or more pick closer (crammed) on 1 to weft way (no gap) 4 Pick less tha full width. 1 to 4 Full width 1 extra pick in the cloth. 4 Bunch of weft yarn in 1 place. Weft yarn loosely placed and form loops on the cloth surface. Fluff interwoven in the cloth.

1 to 2 1 1

Full width or spot type hard/color Desi variation in the cloth. zable RHS of the cloth missing for few cm. 1 RHS extra weft yarn for 2 cm length. 1 to 2 57

Wrong pick

Designs broken on weft way/Double pick.

General

4/ Reject

Penalty points

Improper mending Wrong color

Removing extra yarn from the cloth 1 to and not mended properly. 4 Reject Weaver put wrong color cone.

Wrong design

Wrong placement of color/wrong drawing order by the weaver.

Reject

Note: 4 point system: 0-3” = 1 , 3- 6” = 2 , 6- 9” =3 , More than 9” = 4 Actual Points Counted Points Per 100 Sq. Yards =

* Actual Roll Length(Yds) 36 Fabric Width (Inch)

* 100

58

♦ SOCIAL & ENVIRONMENTAL INFORMATION:• Environmental pollution control:-

SDFL is still an example to the industries in the country of a conscientious and civil and socially responsible manufacturer. Their commitment to improve the environment to provide their workers with a health and friendly workspace and their neighbors with a pollution free clean area continues to be strong as ever. All their chemically contaminated water is treated, neutralized, cleared and given to neighboring farmers. They provide Ecotex label to their customer which is proof of Azo free dyes and are accepted as a very environment friendly production unit. • Health, Safety and hygiene awareness:SDFL believes that all employees are to work in a safe, healthy and hygienic work atmosphere. In each and every unit, First Aid and Hygiene team along with appropriate training to care for its people. In all our industrial units we have both male and female physicians with necessary aid and medical facilities. In order to increase the awareness level of the employees the management also takes great initiative to take part in ergonomics area such as child care, Family Planning, Pure drinking water, Arsenic, Diarrhea. This has been practiced in order to aware them and their families. • Internship Program:SDFL offers a very promising internship program to post graduate and under graduate students across Bangladesh and spends huge 59

amount of money and time on them. Every year SDFL gives opportunity to a large number of internees. All the renowned educational institution in Bangladesh highly prefer their students to attend internship program in SDFL because of its modern art of state, high profile of manpower, recognition of superb management.

• Scope of employment opportunity:As SDFL is continuously expanding with new innovation and advanced modernization in a diversified manner it creates ample opportunity for employment in our country. Here in SDFL people have the opportunity of intensively learning about worldwide textile technology. The management spends a substantial amount of fund on its people by sending them abroad for further development and improvement thus creating a very competent and knowledgeable work for the company as well as for the nation.

60

61

♦ ABOUT RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT:The word “Research” is closely related with the way of wearisome to invent something or giving a new technique as solution of any requirement. On the other hand “Development” stands for the physical appearance of any researched or planned agenda. For this reason the globe of “Research & Development” is based on both speculative job as well as convenient. In the textile sector department of “Research & Development” i.e. R&D is very much essential. Specifically for an industry which is running with an complete industrial park. When an industry can stand up with all the projects like spinning, yarn dyeing, weaving & processing together in a region, then it is very much logical to construct a department like R&D. Research & Development department mainly works for development, most of the time. Very few time the works of research is being done whenever it is requisite. In the big woven composite factories this department is subjected as “ Gate Of Order” of the products. This title is not a fiction, R&D department means it beyond doubt. This department has it’s own way to ensue the regular production of an industry. As a department it is diminutive but it’s effect is prominent all over in an industry. In the vicinity of Sinha Textile Group, R&D department is playing as a imperative role which helps the industry to run it’s yearly production effortlessly on the decisive way of business & trade of world. During my industrial training stage, I have tried my level best to comprehend all the works & also the way of implementation those works of the research & development department. The information 62

related to this department & it’s job are discussed critically towards the end. ♦BASIC FLOWCHART OF RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT:Getting Swatch From Buyer For Duplication Analysis Planning For Sampling Yarn Ordering S/D

Direct Warping

Y/D

Sizing

Yarn Dyeing & Random Program

Weaving

Sectional Warping

Processing

Sizing

Finishing

Weaving

Testing

Processing Finishing Testing

Sending Fabric For Buyer’s Approval If Approved

If Not Approved 63

Order For Next Program

Order Cancelled

LAYOUT OF R&D DEPARTMAENT

B

B A A

A

A

A

E

A

T C

F

A

M

A E

G

L H

I

H

S E

D

64

Here, ABCDEFGHILMT-

Officer’s Table. Cloth Stock. Fabric Cutting Machine. Desk loom. Book Shelf. File Space. Yarn Lee Machine. Handloom Toilet Leg Panel’s Hangers. Manager’s Room. Table. Way.

65

♦ORGANOGRAM OF R&D:Chairman Director General Manager Manager Senior Production Officer Production Officer Assistant Technical Officer Supervisor Helper Worker

♦MANPOWER OF R&D:POST MANPOWER Manager 01 Senior Production Officer 02 Production Officer 04 Assistant Technical Officer 03 66

Supervisor Helper Worker

02 03 12

♦ LIST OF BUYERS:The directory of buyers for which Research & Development department works through-out the year are given below- Levi Strauss • Levi’s Guys. • Levi’s Girls • Levi’s Europe • Levi’s Canada. • Levi’s USA • Levi’s Signature • Levi’s Dockers - VF •VF Asia •VF Nautica • VF Europe - H&M - Medlar - AMC - TCP - Li & Fung - Marksrauft - Marks & Spencer - Hanes - JC Penny - Mirza Fashion - Sears - Oxford 67

♦FABRIC TYPES:The types of fabric that is developed in R&D department of STG are given below-

Canvas -Chambrays Poplin - Lycra Oxford - Pinpoint Boxy - Rib stop - Ottoman

The designs of fabrics may be Plain, Twill, Satin, Herringbone(2/1 Twill, 3/1 Twill), Slub etc of both woven dyed & yarn dyed.

♦SOME FABRIC CONSTRUCTIONS:R&D develops fabrics of different constructions. Some fabric constructions that commonly developed in R&D are here, - 144×90/ 50×50 - 130×108/ 60×60 - 76×70/ 40×40 - 108×56/ 20×16 - 144×130/ 60×60 - 120×80/ 40×40 - 154×61/ 30×10 - 108×56/ 16×12

- 100×80/ (20+20S)×(16+70D) - 175×83/ 30×(30+40D) - 130×80/ (50+40S)×(50+40S) - 100×70/ 32/2×20 - 108×56/ 20×20 - 116×74/ 50×50 - 100×52/ 40/2×40/2 - 130×70/ 32×32 68

- 124×58/ 40/2×10 - 96×48/ (40+40)× 21/2 - 156×76/ 50×(40+40D)

- 116×54/ 80/2×80/2 - 128×70/ (20+20)×(16+16) - 110×62/ 21×16 etc.

♦DETAILS OF R&D WORK:Previously the basic flow chart of R&D had been discussed. Now this is the time to describe every steps broadly, those are critically followed during the development period of sample in the Research & Development department. • Getting Swatch From Buyer For Duplication:The work of research & development section starts by getting order letter & swatch or CAD from buyer for duplication. The order letter comes through marketing section after getting the signature of the Director(technical). Following the order letter & swatch or CAD the next step is decided. Normally when a fabric order comes then all the necessary instructions that is required, are being given by buyers. • Analysis:Normally after getting the swatch, the work of analysis is being done. The fabric analysis mainly includes following works-

Ends per inch measurement. Picks per inch measurement. Warp count measurement Weft count measurement. Weight of fabric measurement. Design, Lifting plan & Drafting plan measurement in case of designed fabric. 69

- Pattern making by analysis of the standard in case of yarn dyed fabric. - Yarn cones, Cone length, Amount of yarn measurement in total as well as of each colour. - Reed count, Reed space measurement. - Total ends measurement according to fabric width. - Colour matching after dyeing with standard. - Pattern matching at the starting of weaving of fabric. • Planning For Sampling:After completion of analysis it is necessary to develop a plan for sampling. In the R&D section the development work starts normally with desk loom or handloom sample. In the section there is one desk loom available which is operated by an weaver. On the other hand one handloom is available which is operated manually in total. To develop a desk loom or handloom sample it is required to make an accurate pattern of fabric. Normally yarn dyed fabrics are developed regularly in the desk loom or handloom. So at first, planning for sampling may start with desk loom. After producing a handloom swatch from the analyzed information, that swatch is being submitted to the related buyers through merchandises for pattern & colour approval. If buyer approves then R&D makes the program to develop 150m fabric at first then 650 m fabric for LF & CS sample. This is for normal yarn dyed development. For solid dyed fabric the planning for development mainly depends on the quantity requirement of buyer. For both cases, first of all papers are being made from analysis data & then the programs for yarn requisition from SRSL, for yarn dyeing (in case of yarn dyed fabric),for warping & sizing, for weaving & finally for processing are supplied to complete the work. • Yarn Ordering:After planning of sample it is necessary to order the required amount of yarn for development of the sample. From analysis we 70

can measure the total amount of yarn that is required for a development. That much amount of yarn have to take from Sinha Rotor Spinning Limited. So, in the yarn requisition paper of R&D every information related to yarn order like name of buyer, fabric construction, the count of yarn, amount of yarn, type of yarn etc have to write & send the paper taking the signature of production officer & manager to SRSL. In that paper we have to inform also in which section the grey yarn shall be provided. In this way we can order the yarn for a particular development. In the R&D section we maintain a record book where we keep the reference number for a particular yarn order. In future when we need that yarn again, we just follow the reference number & give that number to store or SRSL to get the yarn. • Yarn Dyeing & Random Program:This step comes in case of producing yarn dyed fabric. The ordered yarn directly goes to the yarn dyeing section for dyeing purpose. R&D section informs the yarn dyeing section all the necessary information related to yarn dyeing like the shade of colours, the quantity of each colour to be dyed, warp way colours & weft way colours, number of cones of each colour for random program as well as the cone length. Following these instructions yarn dyeing & random program is being done. When the yarn dyeing section receives the order of R&D section then they make a time & action plan(TAP) & send this to R&D. Following that plan we get informed when we can receive the dyed & random yarn from yarn dyeing section. • Warping:The purpose of warping is to arrange a convenient number of warp yarns so that they can be collected on a single warper’s beam. There are two types of warping. These are- Beam Warping Or Direct Warping. 71

- Sectional Warping. Now for the solid dyed fabric after yarn ordering when we receive the required quantity of yarn then the next step is direct warping. On the other hand for the yarn dyed fabric after completion of dyeing & random of yarn we have to do the sectional warping or beam warping(less than 15% coloured yarn of total). So we can say that the beam warping or the direct warping is used for long runs of grey fabrics & simple patterns where the amount of coloured yarn involved is less than about 15% of the total. On the other hand sectional warping is used for short runs, especially of fancy patterned where the amount of coloured yarn is more than about 15% of the total. Now we have to know how the grey yarn or dyed yarn will run for warping. During the analysis & planning for sampling period we make a paper that is supplied taking the approval of manager & GM to warping & sizing section as well as to the weaving section. There the pattern is given & following the pattern the warping people carry the warping process. Here we have maximum creel capacity of 560 for sectional warping & 640 for direct warping. In case of direct warping R&D section informs the cone length, no. of beams according to the fabric requirement which have to be produced, through a paper. It takes 3-4 hours to complete warping for a sample. So after completion of warping we are getting the warper’s beam which is ready for sizing now. • Sizing:The process of application of size solution to yarns by immersion into the solution & squeezing, which is followed by drying to make the warp yarn more suitable for wearing is known as sizing. The primary purpose of warp sizing is to produce a warp, which will suffer the least damage in wearing. In some cases it is also used to modify the characters of the yarn so as have as effect on 72

the fabric weight, hand feel. But sizing is mainly done to make the warp yarn stronger, smooth & better lubricated. In the steps of producing the sample fabric the sizing is a vital step, which is done after producing the warper’s beam. In the sizing unit of Sinha Textile Group the chemicals used for sizing are here, -Finnfix 30(For Finer Yarn Count Like Above 26’s) -Finnfix 150(For Coarser Yarn Count Like 8’s-24’s) -Finnfix 700(For Coarser Yarn Count Like 8’s-24’s) -Trifix (Wax) Normal recipe for sizing of coarser yarn count is-Water--- 500 Litres -Finnfix 700--- 20 Kg -Finnfix 150--- 13 Kg -Trifix (Wax)--- 02 Kg -Chemical Coating Time--- 25 min. -Sizing Time--- 02 hours(For 5000m Length at 35-40m/min speed) In this way sizing of the warp yarn is done & finally we are getting the weaver’s beam of the ordered sample. • Weaving:After getting the sized weaver’s beam at first that beam is being received by the weaving unit. Then firstly drawing-in or Knotting is done following the pattern made by R&D section. After completing the drawing-in then denting is done. Finally according to the design weaving of the fabric starts. For weaving the required weft yarn is being supplied by store(in case of grey fabric) or by the yarn dyeing unit(in case of yarn dyed fabric). In STG there are two types of loom available. One is Rapier & the other I Air Jet loom. So in both type of loom it is possible to produce the fabric. In this way after few days we get the required amount of fabric in grey condition from weaving unit. • Processing & Finishing:73

Processing actually stands for wet processing of the grey fabric that makes the fabric suitable for use. Processing of the grey fabric involves the steps like singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing (in case of demand of coloured fabric) or printing (in case of demand of printed fabric) & finally finishing. Singeing of grey cloth or yarn is performed to remove all protruding fibers imparting external appearance of ready articles and impeding further treatment. Almost all fabrics are singed except for those that are subjected to napping, pile fabrics, gauze and terry fabrics. Desizing is the process by which sizing material is removed from the surface of the fabric. These sizing materials are starch, polyvinyl alcohol, carboxy methyl cellulose, polyamides, polyacrylates etc. The example of using singeing and desizing or singeing/desizing is as follows: • • • •

All cotton color fabric (singeing and desizing) All cotton color peach finish (desizing only) Yarn dyed fabric and PC/CVC fabric (singeing and desizing) PC/CVC/yarn dyed peach finish fabric (desizing only)

The main purpose of scouring textile material is to remove natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character as completely as possible and leave the material in a highly absorptive condition without undergoing chemical or physical damage significantly and also to make the goods suitable for removing the natural coloring matter of the cotton during the subsequent bleaching process. In the bleaching process the colored material is destroyed and thus to confer a pure white appearance to the fabric. Bleaching should also decolorize or remove any residual impurities left by scouring. 74

Mercerizing is the process that increases the tensile strength, dimensional stability & luster of the fabric that initiates to further increase in the dye affinity of fibre. The dyeing of textiles is usually understood to mean giving them a color, which is of comparative performance. This implies it should not be possible to wash the color out easily in laundering, nor should it fade rapidly when exposed to light. The condition of performance distinguishes dyeing from tinting (When the material is given a color which is very easily removed with a detergent and water). Yarns are tinted occasionally so that different counts and quantities can be identified during weaving or knitting or any operation, which precedes dyeing. Printing can be considered as a technique of localized dyeing where in the coloring material is applied only to restricted areas. The main objective in textile printing is the production of attractive designs with well defined boundaries made by the artistic arrangement of a motif or motifs in one or more colors. Bleached dyed and printed fabrics are subjected to certain processes known as finishing processes in order to alter their appearance, feel and sale value before sending them to the market for sale. Depending to the end use of the materials, various finishing processes are carried out. These may be mechanical or chemical processes and effects produced may be temporary, semi permanent or permanent. They may involve mechanical deposition or chemical reaction with the fabric substance or both.

So, we can see that each & every steps of processing are equally important for grey goods to be a finished product that can be used by people. In case of grey goods that will be solid dyed further, must be subjected to all the processes described above. In case of 75

yarn dyed grey fabric the processes that have to be followed are singeing & desizing, washing & finally finishing in the stenter machine & in the sanforise machine. In this way we can complete the processing of the fabric within few hours. • Testing:Testing of the finished fabric is done mainly to identify the final performance of the fabric. This is also done to clarify that either the fabric is ready to fulfill the demand of the buyer or not. The testing of the finished fabric is carried out in the laboratory of Sinha Dyeing & Finishing Limited. Some very useful tests are done in the laboratory. These are like-

Testing Of Stretch, Growth & Recovery. Shrinkage. Tensile Strength. Tearing Strength. Colour Fastness To Wash. Colour Fastness To Light. Colour Fastness To Rubbing. Shade Sorting. Listing & Tailing Of Dyed Fabric etc.

Many other tests are done in case of requirement of buyers but these are the common tests that are done in all the cases. • Send The Fabric To Buyer For Approval:After testing if we see that the fabric’s performance is appropriate, then we send the fabric for buyer’s approval through merchandiser. • Rejection Or Approve For Bulk Production:-

76

If buyer see that the produced fabrics are satisfying their demand then they may approve it. On the other hand if we cant satisfy them the order will be rejected. But in most of the cases R&D satisfies the buyers need & carry on the bulk production. In this way R&D department regularly doing their task to get the bulk order in every season & satisfy the buyer. To do the work all these steps comes in the way of research & development

♦ REQUIRED FORMULAS FOR R&D WORK:-

During the work of Research & Development we have to do lot of calculations in every steps. There are some formulas, which we followed to do the calculations. These formulas are given belowNormally when buyers send CAD then they give the construction & weave of the fabric. Otherwise in case of their supplied fabric swatch, we have to identify the construction & weave. The calculation that I am representing is based on CAD. • Formula to calculate the coloured yarns in warp direction Length in scale of that coloured portion(cm)

No. of colored yarn =

* EPI 25.4

• Formula to calculate the coloured yarns in weft direction Length in scale of that coloured portion(cm)

No. of coloured yarn =

* PPI 25.4

77

• Formula to calculate the total ends of fabric Total Ends = EPI * Required width of fabric. • Formula to calculate the no. of section for sectional warping Total no. of section = Total Ends/ Total no. of cone of warp yarn • Formula to calculate the cone length Cone length = Required warp length * Total no. of section. • Formula to calculate the reed count STG followed Reed count in stock port system, EPI* 0.9(Considering10% Shrinkage) Reed count =

*2 Ends per dent

• Formula to calculate the reed space Reed space = Total Ends / EPI*0.9(considering 10% shrinkage) • Formula to calculate no. of cones in case of direct warping No. of cones = Total Ends / No. of warper’s beam • Formula to calculate cone length in case of direct warping Cone length = No. of warper’s beam * Warp length • Formula to calculate quantity of yarn for yarn dyed fabric For warp yarn, No. of cones of the colour * Cone Length * .5905

Yarn quantity for specific colour= 78

(Kg)

Count of yarn * 1000

For weft yarn, Yarn quantity for specific colour = Quantity of warp yarn * 60% • Formula to calculate quantity of yarn for solid dyed fabric EPI or PPI * Warp Length * Fabric Width * .5905 Yarn quantity(Kg) = Count of yarn * 100

♦ REQUIRED FORMATS FOR R&D WORKS:Research & Development department’s work is related with all the sections of textile sector like spinning, weaving, yarn dyeing, wet processing. So with these sections all the required communication must be maintained with formats. The formats those are required for R&D department are – -Format of requesting for grey yarn from SRSL. -Format for yarn dyed product development. -Format for solid dyed product development. -Format for requesting for yarn dyeing & random. -Format for processing unit as program sheet. -Format for requesting for lab test/lab treat. In these formats every required information related to product development are placed & approved by the manager & general manager before sending the format to different unit. Then the toplevel management persons of different units as are receiving the format as document of R&D & follow the information that is given through the format.

79

Now the formats that are the most important part of R&D work are given in the following page.

• Format of requesting for grey yarn from SRSL :

80

• Format for yarn dyed product development :

81

• Format of solid dyed product development:

82

• Format for requesting for yarn dyeing & random:

83

• Format for processing unit as program sheet:

84

• Format for requesting for lab test/ lab treat:

85

♦ EXAMPLE OF A PROGRAM OF A YARN DYED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT OF R&D:86

Now I am going to present the program of yarn dyed product development as an example including the format works. • Receiving the CAD from buyer:-

• Pattern making from CAD:-

87

• Requesting for the required amount of yarn & follow up:88

• Requesting for dyeing & random & follow up:89

• Requesting for processing & follow up:90

• Requesting for lab test & follow up:91

92

• Delivery of the fabric to buyer:During the delivery of the fabric we have to submit the director signed letter to the delivery section, From that letter the required amount of fabric they matched & delivered the fabric to buyer through merchandiser then.

♦ PROGRAM SHEET FOR SOLID PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT:-

DYED

93

For the development of solid dyed fabric the program sheet that we make are given below-

94

95

• Yarn dyed fabric :

Serial No. 01.

02.

03.

04.

05.

06.

Fabric Specification Construction: 78×100/40×40+12/2 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type : C×C+K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 6.20 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 100×50/40+40×21/2 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: C×K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 5.3 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 100×48/40+40×10 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: C×K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 5.3 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 100×50/40+40×32/2 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: C×K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 4.1 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 168×90/60×60 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: C×C Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 2.98 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 70×54 / 32/2×32/2 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 5.75 Oz/Yd2

Sample

Sample name

Plain Canvas

Plain Oxford

Dobby Oxford

Plain Oxford

Poplin

Pinpoint Canvas

96

Serial No. 07.

08.

09.

10.

11.

12.

Fabric construction

Sample

Sample name

Construction: 90×80/16×16 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 7.75 Oz/Yd2

R.H.Twill Canvas

Construction: 128×60/20×16 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 3.8 Oz/Yd2

L.H.Twill Canvas

Construction: 150×100/ 100/2×50 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: C×C Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 3.5 Oz/Yd2

L.H.Twill Poplin

Construction: 115×51/40+40×21/2 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: CC×K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 5.65 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 78×60/10×10 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: OE×OE Finish: Brush Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 10.5 Oz/Yd2 Construction: Fabric content: Yarn type: Finish: Type of dye: Weight:

105×86/40×40 100% Cotton C×C Regular Reactive 3.5 Oz/Yd2

Chambrays

Heavy Brush Fabric

Dobby Fabric

97

• Plain fabric : Serial No. 01.

02.

03.

04.

05.

Fabric construction Construction: 110×60/20×16 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×K Finish: Peach Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 6.45 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 144×105/40×40 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: C×C Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 4 .77 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 140×120/20×20+12 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×OE Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 11.5 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 128×60/ 80/2× 80/2 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: C×C Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 3.33 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 116×56/20+20×7+7 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×OE Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 9.7 Oz/Yd2

Sample

Sample name

Canvas

Poplin

Ottoman

Pinpoint

Boxy Canvas

98

Serial No. 06.

07.

08.

09.

10.

Fabric construction Construction: 78×34/10+10×6 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: OE×OE Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 9.5 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 128×74/32+32S×12+12S Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×Slub Finish: Light Peach Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 7.25 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 102×66/20S×20S Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: Slub×Slub Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 5.57 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 105×48/16×12 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 7.6 Oz/Yd2

Construction: 133×72/40×40+40D Fabric content: 98%Ctn-2%Lycra Yarn type: C×C Finish: Peach Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 4.4 Oz/Yd2

Sample

Sample name

Oxford

Slub

Slub Canvas

Rib stop

Stretch

99

• Twill Fabric:

100

Serial No. 01.

02.

03.

04.

05.

Fabric construction Construction: 108×56/16×12 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×K Finish: Wrinkle Free Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 8.2 Oz/Yd2

Construction: 140×70/32×32 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 4.8 Oz/Yd2

Construction: 160×80/ 60/2× 60/2 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: C×C Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 5.72 Oz/Yd2

Construction: 110×72/20+16S×16 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K+S×K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 7.75 Oz/Yd2

Construction: 160×65/30×20+16S Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K× K+S Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 6.22 Oz/Yd2

Sample

Sample name

L.H.Twill Canvas

Twill Poplin

Twill Pinpoint

Slub Twill

Slub Twill

101

Serial No. 06.

07.

08.

09.

10.

11.

Fabric construction Construction: 118×72/20+20S×20S Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K+S×S Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 6.54 Oz/Yd2

Sample

Sample name

Herring Bone Twill

Construction: 146×70/30×7 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×OE Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 10.76 Oz/Yd2

Dobby

Construction: 128×58/20×10 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×OE Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 8.9 Oz/Yd2

Dobby

Construction: 108×56/16×12 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 8.2 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 163×71/32×14S Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type: K×Slub Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight: 7.5 Oz/Yd2 Construction: 120×65/16×16 Fabric content: 100% Cotton Yarn type : K×K Finish: Regular Type of dye: Reactive Weight : 9.4 Oz/Yd2

Broken Twill

Slub Twill 4/1 Sateen

Bed Ford Cord

♦MY ACHIEVEMENT:102

• I got the general information of such a large factory that gives me the clear idea about the requirements of a composite industry setup with all necessary manpower & machineries. • I have earned some knowledge about the quality management system of different sections of the industry. • I have identified the process sequence of different units that gives me the better idea about running of a program. • I got the information related to amount of wastage of different unit that will help me to calculate the benefit & loss of any project that can be run. • I have developed my knowledge in a very important sector like research & development that will help me to enrich my working experience in all area of textile in spite of a specific machine or section. • Different types of fabric of diverse design & construction are being analyzed by me that given me much better idea about manufacturing of individual types of clothing. • Communication with different buyers & merchandiser helped me to develop my personal skills & self-confidence. • I have harmonized myself with the industrial environment, work & administration that will help me to do job in any industry. • Furthermore I achieved some practical knowledge about every steps related to production of a woven fabric that will facilitate me to develop my experience more in this field.

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♦CONCLUSION:For every person who is fresher in the field of textile, industrial training works like learning route. This course given me the opportunity to move liberally in every section of the industry to learn the industrial work & follow the process sequence virtually. From my two months observation of the industry along with research & development section specially, I can say that in the weaving sector this industry has very strong possibility because the industry is running with all modern machineries & very knowledgeable persons are working all the time with their maximum oomph. I just think the capacity of the industry should be developed with the amount of order the industry is being taking. In the production floor the commanding power of the officers, compliance, administration rules everything are appealing. I hope that this industrial training will help me a lot to work in the future period wherever I want to develop my career. Finally wishing the best prospect of both the industry & myself I want to conclude. Thank you.

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