Rc_tips

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Use the spring from a ball-point pencil and cut this spring in 4 equal small pieces with 2 or 3 windings. Place the springs between the brake pads on the mounting screw. This prevents the brake disks from dragging when in neutral or full power position of the throttle servo.

TIP 2:

Make from a piece that is left over from your lexan body a sheet that will be placed next to the fueltank and covering the front brake disk.. So when fuel is spilt during quick pits-stops, the brake disks and pads stay clean and brake fading is prevented.

TIP 3:

! Never ! use thread lock on: * the screws that fix the coolinghead of the engine or any other screws from the engine itself! * small hexagon (allenhead) set-screws where you have to use 1.5 m/m to 2.0 m/m L-shape hexagon tools! * the four aluminum wheel nuts! * aluminum to aluminum or aluminum to steel parts or connections

TIP 4: Use thread lock on every other metal to metal connection. "screw lock" for easy binding normally colored RED "nut lock" for normal binding normally colored BLUE

"stud lock" for heavy binding normally colored GREEN. !Use this only on drive joints and drive universal hexagon screws! Colors may vary from brand to brand and type!

TIP 5: If you want to loosen a thread lock fitted connection specially when "stud lock" is applied, use a small heating tool (watch the plastic). When the metal parts are warm the thread lock will become weakened and the screws will come loose easily.

TIP 6:

To prevent metal to metal wear you can use a special purpose grease. This MoS² (Molibdeen Sulfide) grease is specially designed to reduce wear on metal surfaces and gives a good lubrication. You can use it on universals, pignon/crown gear and main/clutch gear combinations. The grease is produced by OKS in Germany and is called "OKS 220" for a small 50 gram tube or as "OKS 221" for an 400 ml spraycan. Although the grease is black it does not contain carbon particles, like some Molykote products! This grease is race proven and is available by the OKS distributor in your local country. For an address in your country please look at the OKS site.

TIP 7: The break-inn period is 80% the key for a good running engine and a long lifetime. Try to stay below all maximum settings of the engine performance. If you are just running your car for fun, then be sure that the engine is running always at a rich setting. Try to warm up the engine for 2 minutes minimum by running the car at medium speed (rpm's) before asking the maximum power from your engine.

TIP 8: When your engine was running fine before and it does not want to start, then this is the golden rule. Open the throttle fully. Start the engine without connecting a glowplug ignitor. Lift the car and then close the throttle. Now put the glow igniter on and the engine should start, easily. If not, check for fuel, defective glow-plug or whatever. But do not directly change the needle settings. Only minor changes (all within a 1/2 turn) could be needed if the external circumstances are changed. A good running engine, does not need frequent needle changes.

TIP 9: Always check the engine temperature frequently, by putting some spit on your finger and then on the cooling head. If it does not evaporate the engine temperature is below 100 °C. You may close the high speed needle a little if required. If it stays for 3 to 4 seconds the temperature is OK. If it evaporate direct, then open the high speed needle until the temperature goes down. An engine temperature system is a nice feature and can prevent premature engine failure due to overheating.

TIP 10: After using your engine these are the things to do:

Remove all fuel in the engine and carburator by taking off the fuel line and let the engine run until it stops. Then put some after run oil in the engine and run the motor for 3 seconds on the starter box so the oil is spread inside the engine well. This will prevent rust building up inside the engine if not used for a long period.

TIP 11:

Cover the underside of your chassis with 3M all weather auto adhesive vinyl, this not only protects your chassis from scratches (some of them) but help you keep loose screws in place. The price in Singapore for a yard of the adhesive is U$ 10 in a variety of colors. Can be removed easily when destroyed. Tip by Felipe Ordonez from Signapore

TIP 12:

For those people who are receiving a lot of cd's without use do not throw them away but recycle! Glue 4 of them together. And use them as camber/caster disks for measuring.

TIP 13:

Never, never use the switch harness that comes with the radio control equipment. The best way to supply power to the receiver and servos is to use no switch at all. Races haven proven that they can have a defect after a while. Even switches with rubber covers are not advisable. From race experience in Holland and France the Multiplex battery connecters as shown at the left are a good choice for power connection instead of a switch. The contacts are well covered and the leads and connector housings are heavy duty. For switching on the receiver just connect the connectors and the other way around. This also eases up the way of charging the battery pack as the charging cable can be connected direct to the battery pack.

TIP 14: Tip by Jason Fritton I came up with a simple way of mountin ga return spring on a Nova Rossi type engine. It uses a Losi GTX/N XT return spring kit and you have to flip the carb fixing assembly around the other way. I have also cut the

spring and stretched it a little to make the tension just right.

TIP 15: For Kyosho drivers this is an important tip! The pins that are securing the lower connection points of the shock absorbers in the suspension arms are coming out slowly and might be lost during racing!. To prevent this, mark the place where the small hexagon set screw touches the pin. Use a Dremel tool to grind a flat spot at the marked point on this pin. When replaced and the set screw secured the pin can not rotate any more and this prevents the pin from coming out. Make a small slit in the head of the pin to mark that the flat spot is horizontal. Put the screws in from the bottom of the suspension arm instead of the top, this makes replacing or unscrewing more easy.

TIP 16:

For almost every buggy engine used these days, it is best to engage a little later, because of the higher rev's these engines can produce. This will give more bottom power. Modify the shoes as showed below by try and error method. Original Serpent shoes need maximum one hole as they are already lightened from the factory. Mugen and Kyosho need to be modified with one or two holes depending of the weight and engine performance. There for if the clutch shoes are too heavy just drill one or two small holes with a +/3 m/m diameter at the end of each shoe (see the marked spots). This will make them lighter and the clutch will engage later. info taken from the clutch page

TIP 17: Never remove the flywheel by slamming with a object on the rear of the flywheel. This will cause puts in the main bearingseatings and cause premature main bearing failure. The right way to remove the flywheel is to place the rear of the flywheel on a solid object and placing a piece of wood or nylon on top of the cranckshaft. Then you may hit the wood or nylon without damaging the bearings. Or use a special pulley-puller tool as shown in the picture to pull off the flywheel from the cranckshaft. Cost +/- 3.00 $. Thanks to Ruenjo Lu for sending the picture of this car battery terminal remove tool.

TIP 18: For those who do not like to replace their Mugen MBX-4 shock absorber caps often because of the metal to metal connection causing play, this mod will save you money! Remove the aluminum spacer and put the ball only on the screw instead, with the flat surface to the shock tower. Fit a piece of silicone tube of 6 m/m long and a diameter of 2 x 6 m/m inside the shockcap eye without play and secure both ends with a thin 3 m/m washer. I use BLUELINE silicone fuel tube but every other will do too. Put a drop of silicone oil on the outside of the tube to make it rotate smoother. Works on front and rear. Also works on Kyosho shocks but you need to use slightly smaller silicone tube.

Replace the silicone tube every race to be sure it is not broken due to the pressure. Prepare some spare silicone bushings incase of a broken one. They are replaced in 10 seconds! Teflon or plastic bushings can be used too, but need to be custom-made. Costs nearly nothing on year base! Paco Raap

TIP 19: This simple tip is from Cliff Hudson from U.S.A. for the Mugen MBX4(RR). A original rear brace for the Mugen MBX4(RR) cost you about 30 $, but you can make a stiffer one for only 7 $. Use the battery brace from

Associated B3, the large hole needs to be drilled out and use a motor post extension from the Losi NXT kit as a bushing, this end connects on top of the center diff brace, remove one of the pan head screws and replace with long hex bolt removed from existing brace. The other end, just cut to length, drilled a hole through it and bolted it with existing rear brace bolt at mount on rear tower..... you want believe how much stiffer this made the chassis.

The custom made Associated B3 battery brace modified to be used with the Mugen MBX4(RR).

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TIP PAGE 1 TIP 20: Tip by Tarimon Do you know the problem to adjust the carb on a Novarossi or R&B engine in a Kyosho MP-5 or 6? Normally it is hardly not possible to reach the lower speed setting screw on the carb, because of the radiobox. So i drilled a hole in each side of the radiobox in the right height of the screw. In order to make the box water-resistant again I glued a piece of a pen-cover between the two holes in the box. Now it's one of the easiest things to reach the screw of the carb! The rest you can see on the pictures.

TIP 21: To prevent the hingpin from rotating mount a 3 m/m set screw as the picture shows. The example is a aluminum rear hingpin holder of Thunder Tiger EB4-LE. But all aluminum ones can be done like this as long as the thickness is enough to fit the 3 m/m set screw.

TIP 22: Most people snap the steering knuckles from disassembling them too many times for maintenance. Here is a good way of cleaning the bearings of the knuckle without unscrewing it from the rest of the suspension arm. Slowly file the outside housing of the knuckle enough so the ball bearing can be removed by just tapping it. That way you can remove the outside bearing without disassembling anything. Take the inside bearing and remove the seal on the end that meets with the outside bearing of the knuckle .NOT the end that is exposed to dirt. Then put it back. That way when you remove the outside bearing you can see the inside bearing and wash it with alcohol (since you removed the seal) and all dirt goes away. Re lube

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