Radiator-140217055059-phpapp02.pdf

Kia Sedona 2.9 TDI LE Auto 2003 LV02S Task 2 Remove & Refit Coolant Radiator Coolant Pressure Test Check Antifreeze Strength & Type

NOTE: The air conditioning system has been pre drained for your safety. If you were opening the system a new receiver drier and o ring would need to be fitted. The gas would also need to be drained and refilled along with adding some compressor oil.

You will need the following tools and equipment to remove the radiator. Pry-bar, 2 x hose clamps, hose clip removal tool, 3/8 socket set.

You will also need a clean drain tray to catch the coolant in, this must be clean because to be environmentally friendly coolant should always be reused wherever possible. A clean water can and some funnels will also be useful.

You will also need to use a coolant pressure testing kit.

Once the vehicle is safely on the lift raise the bonnet and locate the cooling system pressure cap. **DANGER** ensure that the engine is cold and remove the coolant pressure cap slowly to avoid scalding. The system is pressurised to 1 bar (14.7 psi) whilst the engine is running and once switched off until it has cooled. If it is still warm place a rag over the cap and undo slowly releasing the pressure. Never open a hot cooling system straight away you will be scalded.

Raise the vehicle on the lift and locate the radiator drain tap on the O/S lower of the radiator. You can reach it by putting your hand through this gap.

You can just about see the coolant drain tap through the gap between the front sub frame and the radiator mount/cross-member.

Remove the 2 x 10mm bolts and the jubilee clip holding the engine air intake to the slam panel and remove it.

Undo the electrical connector connecting the horn, there is a small plastic tag that you have to depress with your thumbnail.

Remove 2 x 10mm bolts holding the bonnet latch to the slam panel, do not remove the latch just leave it in place.

Now release the clips holding the wiring loom in place on the slam panel, leave the wiring loom in place, you are removing the slam panel soon.

Remove 6 x 13mm bolts there are 3 at each end of the slam panel, carefully remove the slam panel and place it on the bench.

The removed slam panel complete with horn.

Now you need to disconnect the air conditioning pressure sensor connector from the receiver/drier unit.

Disconnect the air conditioning cooling fan connector, do not remove this fan it is not necessary.

Disconnect the coolant radiator fan, this fan is being removed.

Now you need to remove the electric cooling fan and cowling from behind the coolant radiator. It is pretty tight between the radiator and engine so you need to take care not to damage the radiators delicate cooling fins. Undo 3x 10mm bolts holding the fan the first is here.

Here is the second one.

To get to the lower cooling fan bolt you will need the following tools from your 3/8 drive kit. It is quite difficult to access the lower of the three bolts, however this kit makes it quite easy to reach once you have located it.

Here is the third and final bolt.

Lift the cooling fan clear of the vehicle taking care not to damage the delicate radiator core.

Remove the top radiator hose, you need to squeeze the clip with pliers, leave the clip in place and pull/twist the hose until it is clear.

Next you need to remove the power steering cooler hoses, there are two on the N/S of the radiator. Clamp them both off to avoid losing the power steering fluid. Remove the clip and pull/twist the hose to remove it.

You will need to use the remote clip removal tool to access the lower power steering cooler hose clip. Note the position of the hose clamp to prevent fluid loss. Clean away any spilled fluid with a rag.

Remove the lower radiator hose using the remote clip removal tool.

Remove the bolt holding the air conditioning (AC) pipe from the AC condenser (radiator) and separate the joint.

The o ring seal here should be replaced.

The radiator will now be free to lift out of the vehicle, ask a fellow student for help with this.

Inspect the radiator core for corrosion especially at the bottom where the dirt collects the most.

Inspect the radiator tanks and seals, hose fittings for leaks and cracks. Check that the drain tap is tight!! Also check the condition of the radiator mountings. Finally have a look at the core, are there any leaks? Is it corroded? Are a large number of fins damaged? Record your findings on your jobcard.

Now follow the removal steps in reverse order to reassemble the vehicle. Take care not to miss anything out. If you skip any steps it may mean doing something twice!!

During rebuild note that the hoses need to be positioned correctly to prevent rubbing whilst the vehicle is moving. Note the markers on the radiator hoses.

Don’t forget to remove your hose clamps!!

Always refill the coolant slowly to prevent air locking and spillages. This will save you lots of time later on. Use a strainer funnel to prevent dirt entering the system. Don’t forget to check the power steering oil reservoir too as some of that fluid will have spilled.

Once the system is refilled you can use the coolant pressure tester to check your work. Fit the adapter cap (4) to the system. Make sure the cap aperture is clean before fitting otherwise it will leak!!

Fit the pressure tester and pump it up to 1 bar (14.7psi) this mimics the pressure created by the heat of the engine during running. Allow the system to rest for 5 minutes, if the pressure remains then the system is leak free. If not start trying to locate the leak by listening and looking.

Once you have checked the system you can check the condition of the coolant pressure cap. It should blow off at just over 1 bar any more or less then it is faulty. Also check the physical condition of the cap.