Planning Your French Adventure

P lanning Your

A dventure

FRENCH

This is the preparation portion of the independent traveler's operations manual, France: Instuctions for Use* — the only guide devoted solely to the practicalities of travel in France. Remember...

When all else fails, read the Instructions!

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elcome to the preparation portion of the only guide devoted solely to the practicalities of French travel, France: Instructions for Use. In this document, you’ll find advice and considerations for all your preparation questions as you begin to create your itinerary. There's info to help you make decisions about where to go and when, what to take and what to leave, whether to drive or take the train, buy or rent a cell phone, and more (yes, the water is safe to drink, it's just it tastes better in some places than others). Once you head for the airport, you likely won’t need to refer to this section again.

What you'll need as you travel, though, is the operations manual itself, France: Instructions for Use tucked away in your handiest pocket. You'll then have the answers to all the questions you'll have once you arrive in France—including the ones that haven't occurred to you yet. We recommend you grab a copy as you’re making your plans, read a few pages a day, review it again on the plane, and then refer to it as necessary as you travel (it's small enough to stash anywhere, and so light you won't even know it's there). Take a look at the last page of this document to see all that the 3.5 oz. France: Instructions for Use will keep at your side: for the travel assistance you need, at the moment you need it most. Now...let's start planning!

France: Instructions for Use Available from Amazon.com, bn.com, Booksense booksellers, or ordered from any bookseller near you. For bulk sales, please contact Beagle Bay, Inc. at beaglebay.com, or call Jacqueline Simonds at 775.827.8654. Also available through all major distributors including Ingram and Baker & Taylor. franceinstructions.com ISBN-13: 978-1885436-405

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Praise from experts and travelers alike:

able of Contents

Decisions, Decisions

3 When Should We Go? 3 Where Should We Go? 2 5 Where Should We Stay? 7 Modes of Travel 10 Two Approaches 10 Cost vs. Time, Comfort and Convenience 11 Rail Pass, or Point-to-Point? 13

Preparing To Go Luggage and Wardrobe Wardrobe Tips Packing for the Airlines Money Matters Cell Phones: Can We Talk? Other Considerations Electricity Important Document Records Health and Travel Insurance Air Travel Tips

Ten Tips for the Traveler Abroad Language: Not What, but How

15 15 16 18 19 21 22 22 23 23 24 26 29

Incredibly informative, first-hand, spot-on knowledge from experienced travelers who know their readers. A must-read...and a must-have-onhand during your travels. — Nichole Buscher, Ciaobellatours.com, Paris

France:

Instructions for Use*

The Practical, On-site Assistant for the Enthusiastic (Even Inexperienced) Traveler by Alison Culliford & Nan �Elroy

France: Instructions for Use is the perfect,

*When all else fails...read the instructions.

pocket-sized,"how to" guide for anyone seeking a more authentic travel experience. — Pauline Kenny, www.slowtrav.com It’s practical, it’s fun, and it’s immensely useful. Another home run in this expanding series that no traveler should leave home without! — Sally Watkins, Top 125 Travel Super-Agents 2004-07 As a French-born woman, I am really impressed by the way you describe the attitude and spirit of French people, so precise, and so true! I read nothing that I could contradict - unless with a big “mauvaise foi.” — Pauline Deschamps, ContextParis.com Wow, I am impressed with what you have accomplished in such a thin volume. Many of our past guests would have profited tremendously had they had your book in hand. — David Carpita Seasons of Provence Cooking School & Mas de Cornud Country Inn

Table of Contents:

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rance: Instructions for Use

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All text, photos, and illustrations © 2008, Illustrata Press Planning Your French Adventure - Last Update: 19:1 22-Nov-07

FRANCE: Instructions for Use

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Planning Your French Adventure

 WHEN SHOULD WE GO?

You’ve seen the films, read the books, and now you’re finally planning your dream sojourn en France. You know timing is important: with its changeable climate and populations that fluctuate with the seasons, France will be vastly different in December than in June. So, before you try to answer the question of when to go, first define the trip you have in mind. Do you like cities with all their cultural life, or is a slow meander around vineyards more what you’re after? Is warm weather important to you? Are you looking to eschew the tourist centers and get “off the beaten track?” Is seeing the Eiffel Tower a must? Once you have a clearer idea, some of the following considerations will help you decide when might be the ideal time.

ecisions, Decisions.

• The hottest, most crowded period is July and August,when airline prices are highest, hotels are more likely to be booked up, and the weather can be sweltering, especially in the South. The whole of France heads for the sea from mid-July to endAugust so it really isn’t that much fun to be on the roads –

or the beaches – at that time. For extroverts and culture vultures, though, the advantage of the summer months is that there are hundreds of festivals covering everything from rock music (Belfort) to theatre (Avignon) to Romany culture (StesMaries-de-la-Mer), all over France. • Paris in summer – the good and the bad. As usual, there is one rule for Paris, and another for the rest of France. The Parisian exodus in July and August means there's a lot less traffic in the capital (hence less air and noise pollution), and generally a more relaxed feel about the city. There are also special deals available in lodging, so if you don’t see a specific promotion on a hotel’s site, ask if there might be an unadvertised special. (Do make sure, though, that they have AC, for which there may be an additional cost.) Paris in July and August is a city given over to tourism, and the Mairie de Paris puts on lots of free events like Paris Plage and open-air cinema. However, tourist attractions like the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower are, if anything, more crowded; and believe it or not, during the second and third weeks of August it can be difficult to find a restaurant or a bakery that’s open. • May, June and September to mid-October are très, très beaux. In spring, the blossom is in bloom, and the first rays of sun coax the café culture outside, while autumn envelops us

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with the mellow tones of the fruit and grape harvests, to be enjoyed at local markets and on your plate. The weather is temperate during the day and requires no more than a sweater or light jacket in the evening. This temperate season begins earlier and ends later the further south you go. Mid-season prices are more affordable for airlines, trains and hotels, and sites and attractions are less crowded.

fares will drop somewhat, but you may have to play a waiting game with the airlines for a sale fare that may never appear.

• The least expensive time of year to travel is from November 1st until the week before Easter. If the main point of your visit is cultural, the winter season can be a good time to come, with low season prices and fewer tourists, though major art exhibitions draw crowds at any time of year. In December through January, towns and cities glisten with Christmas illuminations and festive markets, followed by the sales in mid-January to mid-February. The weather will be cold, so wrap up; but don’t forget your sunglasses for those rare crisp, sunny days.

• Avoid French school holidays if you can. The mid-term breaks (late October/early November, and late February/early March) and the Spring holiday (any time from mid-April to the first week in May and not necessarily over Easter) may take you by surprise and suddenly you find prices have gone up, hotels are full and you are waiting in line for everything. This is particularly true for winter sports destinations, where you will be spending more time waiting for the lifts than enjoying the snow, though the advice covers the whole of France. The holiday dates vary across three zones and can be checked by Internet (we also list them in the Appendix of the Instructions).

Generally speaking, airfares are lowest (excluding holidays) after October 31st until the end of March. They rise slightly before Easter, again after, then again in May and June, and frequently remain higher through September. October

�WORTH NOTING: Outside the cities, it’s not unusual for hotels, gîtes, restaurants, and some attractions to close from November through March. If you haven’t had a response from your faxes or e-mails, this could be why.

�WORTH NOTING: One factor that can push prices up unexpectedly are conventions and trade fairs. France is the world leader in these, and they attract thousands of people. Watch out especially for fashion weeks (early March and early October) and Maison & Objet (in January Page 4

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and September) in Paris, the Film Festival and MIDEM in Cannes. Tourist office websites will normally tell you if there is a big event coming up, and if hotels quote prices higher than on their websites this may be the reason. Ask if the following weekend might not be more reasonable.

 WHERE SHOULD WE GO? One of the reasons why the French tend to vacation in their own country is the vast spectrum of possible landscapes, climates and activities that lie within their own borders. These range from the windswept Celtic coast of Brittany to the palm trees of the Mediterranean; from ski resorts to tranquil waterways, from forested national parks to the glitzy Côte d’Azur. To describe them in detail would defeat the purpose of this publication, so we advise you to choose one or more destination guides to help you decide (we list some favorites in the Appendix of the Instructions), or look on the Maison de la France website (www.franceguide.com). Expatica’s website also has a description of the different regions, and the Gîtes de France website has links to regional tourist board sites. France is less than twice the size of the state of Colorado. Although it may look small on the map of Europe, it would be impossisble to take it all in during a normal vacation Page 5

allowance, so it's best to be realistic. Based on the type of sojourn you've decided on (sea and relaxation, culture, nightlife, vineyards, off-the-beaten-track), consider choosing at most two regions, and discover them slowly. We guarantee you’ll get more out of your trip, and share more memorable moments with the locals. If seeing the sights of Paris is important to you, why not combine a week or a few days in this frenetic city with relaxation among the châteaux of the Loire, or in Provence? If sunny weather’s a prerequisite, spend all your time in the southern half of the country where you can still combine cities (Montpellier, Avignon) with coast and countryside. Consider ditching the car and hiring bikes, or renting a gîte from which you can make short excursions. (See the Modes of Travel section ahead.) Beyond that, we believe that it is “how” rather than “where” you travel that makes the difference. Traveling on your own with preparation, curiosity and an understanding that the entire country was not created solely for the foreign tourist will bring you an unforgettable experience, regardless of the destination.

FRANCE: Instructions for Use Of course, we must not forget the human element of the travel itinerary. To reduce the likelihood of strained relations among fellow travelers, keep these key considerations in mind:

Planning Your French Adventure as with your companions, and you are more likely to get into conversation with a local, perhaps picking up an insider tip.

• Have each person in your group voice their goals and expectations for the trip. One person doesn’t want to miss le Tour Eiffel, another’s seen it twice already. Someone else wants a vineyard tour; another has heard there is an antique fair nearby; still others only want to “see where the winds blow them.” Try to plan an itinerary that allows for as many of your and your companions’ specific desires as possible, with few obligations, going your separate ways as necessary.

• If you are traveling in a group and something’s not to your liking, balance your consideration of the group with finding a way to take care of your own needs. Wherever two or more of your are gathered in a foreign country for any length of time, there are bound to be disparities which can easily lead to discomfort. Voice your wishes, but be flexible, considerate and respectful – and don’t be afraid to take care of yourself when the alternative is being mad at everyone else for the rest of the trip.

• Remember that even though you’re in a group, not everybody travels in the same way. As traveling companions, you’ll be spending an extraordinary amount of time together, but there’s nothing that says you have to be attached at the hip. If somebody wants to sleep in, let ‘em. Just set a time to meet before dinner on the seafront and let it go. (If you’re the roller-over however, understand you’ll be on your own taking the bus or taxi to meet later – and don’t be late!) Also take courage from the fact that France is one of the most individualistic countries in the world, where people would rather do something on their own than tag along with the others for the sake of being in a group. Eating alone can be just as enjoyable

• Don’t blame me, I’m only the translator! If one in your party speaks some French the onus will be on them to get directions, translate restaurant menus, etc. Don’t be too hard on them if things go wrong. The French language is complicated enough, and is made sometimes impenetrable by regional accents. Similarly, French speakers should realize that anything spoken in French will not be picked up on by their non-French speaking companions, so remember to keep your friends informed or they can be left feeling helpless and annoyed. Guessing, wandering, occasional dead-ends, and unanticipated closings will inevitably occur. Gather as much pertinent information as you can, keep it handy, always have a Plan B, and remember to breathe. Page 6

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 WHERE SHOULD WE STAY? Let’s talk stars (for hotels, that is). Being American, and because this may be our once-in-a-lifetime trip to France, we want everything to be perfect. Naturally, also being of the opinion that “More is always better,” we want as many stars on our hotel**** as we can afford, right? Not necessarily. Stars are allocated on narrow criteria that do not always accurately reflect the quality of the hotel. They signify the number of rooms it has, the facilities and amenities it can certify that it offers, and the higher price these entitle it to charge. They don’t reflect how well the hotel is maintained and the many other more nebulous factors such as taste, human relations and “charm.” A lovely fifteen-room two-star may have friendly, efficient service and a stunning view, but no mini-bar or TV; while a fifty-room four-star may supply you with a phone, hair dryer, and a mini-bar filled with exorbitantly priced Coca-Colas, but be poorly maintained with an overworked, jaded staff. (Who ever knew they actually needed a phone in their bathroom?) So how do you choose? An expert, reliable referral and a complete, honest description are the best help when decid-

ing on lodging. Many English-language guidebooks eschew the star system altogether and give recommendations based on charm, décor and the helpfulness of staff (remember to differentiate between paid a advertisement and unbiased editorial). Candid chat boards can be very useful, and travel consultants can help (if they’ve been there recently). But be forewarned: if a hotel is being recommended to you, it’s being recommended to most of the other 3-4 million American travelers to France, and they’re making their reservations earlier and earlier, just as you’re being advised to do. You'll find lodging available in five fundamental types: Hôtel (hotel) – Rooms by the night, no minimum stay, flexible cancellation policy (normally based on the number of rooms in the hotel). Rates can be anything from €50 to €500 a night, and breakfast available for an additional €10-€20. Chambre d’hôte (bed and breakfast) – One of the most popular ways to vacation in France, chambres d’hôtes can range from a room in a bungalow to a séjour in a château. An evening meal (table d’hôte) is sometimes a handy option offered in country areas. They are a good value at €50 - €80 for a double room per night including breakfast. A handpicked selection is found in Alasdair Sawday’s French Bed & Breakfast guide, while Châteaux & Hôtels de France lists

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more upscale demeures privés (see Appendix, Guidebooks and Travel Resources). Résidence de vacances (independent apartments) are furnished apartments or studios in a complex, available per night or by the week. Prices from €60 a night and €200 a week. Apart-hôtel Citadines is one of the largest chains. Gîtes (independent rural accommodation and B&Bs) are fully furnished tourist accommodations, often in old farmhouses or converted barns and available to rent by the week or the weekend. Gîtes de France is the main portal with 43,000 properties having their stamp of quality. All but the most basic category provide linen. They cost from €200 for a week and €100 for a weekend for a gîte sleeping four. Auberge de jeunesse (youth hostel) offer budget accommodation in dorms or single or double rooms. From €13 a night. IYHF youth hostels have a membership fee (€15) while the many independent hostels don’t. �WORTH NOTING: The Formule 1 motel chain offers basic but clean accommodation for those in a hurry. No reservations are necessary and check-in and out is all automated – you just put your credit card into a machine and it allocates you a code for your room. Rooms cost around €30. Parking is secure and breakfast is available.

They are situated at most expressway exits so if you want to get to your vacation destination fast you won’t waste time looking for accommodation en route. Booking in advance can be done through tourist offices by phone or Internet, for a small fee. When booking on your own, you’ll find a hotel staff will likely speak English, while bed and breakfast owners often don’t. For hotels, you will often be required to give your credit card number over the phone for security, as the room will be charged if you don’t show up. Booking via Internet will often give you a better rate. There is a nominal tax on tourist accommodation, the taxe de séjour, which adds a maximum €1.50 to your bill. Along with the categories above, and numbers of stars, keep these things in mind when searching for lodging: Buildings are older, and rooms are smaller, especially in town. It only takes a few hours in France to realize that everything is smaller here – coffee cups, dogs, cars… and hotel rooms are no exception. As well as the fact that Europeans don’t find them small (it’s all relative), this is often for logistical reasons. The historic town centers can date back centuries, when walls were thicker and rooms were smaller – or bigger, and have now been divided up. Historic French hotels have been eked out of buildings that originated without wiring,

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plumbing or elevators. Therefore, if there is a bathroom in your room (which has become the rule rather than the exception), it’s had to be fit into a space that may never have known there would exist such a thing; and if there is an elevator, it has most likely been squeezed into the central column of a listing staircase, and is big enough only for a very slim person with an attaché case. So, if having a large hotel room is a priority, you’d best ask for a junior suite and pay a bit more. Or you might choose instead to stay outside the historic center, where the hotels are newer and more resemble our own. There tends to be trade-off of character for space, however, and it depends if you prefer the authentic old world experience or relocated home-sweet-home comfort. To the contrary, the countryside is more expansive, and gîtes and chambres d’hôtes don’t tend to have the same space constraints. To get a room when there are no rooms, forego the toilet in yours. Thankfully, all but the budget hotels have now responded to the demand for en suite bathrooms – and so they should, the French invented the term after all! But being flexible on this point can avoid your getting back on the train to look for a room in the next town if you’ve arrived at a popular destination late in the afternoon with no res-

ervation. Rooms with a toilet across the hall will probably be the last available; although often your room will still have a shower and sink in it, and the toilet itself may even be private – just outside the room. You find this most often with chambres d’hôtes, which are basically rooms in somebody’s house. We were, however, amused when staying in one remote farmhouse to discover that the bathroom was across the hall . . . down some stairs and through the kitchen. Added to the fact that the farmer and his wife went for their one-night-out a year and left us with the wrong keys to get back in the house, this was not our most successful weekend getaway! Don’t fear that the one- or two-star may not be welcoming and clean. Though there are some truly terrible budget hotels around, those that are recommended in guidebooks tend to be good, and some can be positively charming, even romantic. The main downside with cheap hotels in our experience is uncomfortable beds and thin walls. Don’t be afraid to ask to see the room and even bounce on the beds before committing to it. When rooms are scarce, search for hotels that have larger room capacity. Many of the recommended hotels throughout France only have twelve, or perhaps twenty, rooms. When

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you’ve waited to book and you’ve run into a scarcity of available rooms, start concentrating your search on larger hotels. Forego the view to get peace and quiet. Though most French hotel windows are amply double-glazed, if you are someone who prefers an open window to air conditioning on a hot night you may be better off requesting a courtyard room. This is something to be aware of, however, as some buildings are arranged around a series of small courtyards that may prove dark and dank – and even true of the cheaper rooms in grand hotels. Conversely, trendier hotels might have an open-air bar or restaurant in the courtyard itself. Pose lots of questions when making your reservation, and bring earplugs in any case.

 MODES OF TRAVEL Two Approaches You have ten days to two weeks, and you want to see as much as possible. How do you do it? There are two fundamental approaches to traveling: town-by-town, and home base. When you travel town by town, you create a logical itinerary of places you’d like to visit, allowing one or more days in each location. If you’re very organized, you can even stop off in intermediate towns for lunch and a look around before traveling on to your final destination. The main advantage of

this type of travel is that you will certainly “see” a lot, or at least cover a significant amount of territory. The disadvantage is that you’ll spend a great deal of time in transit mode: preparing to leave, packing, checking out and getting to the car or train, traveling, arriving, locating the hotel, checking in, reorienting, and so on. A day or two later, you do it all over again. If you’re a highly energetic, non-stop type of person, this travel approach might be just the ticket. The alternate approach is what we personally prefer: the home-base mode. Instead of being on the move every day or two, choose one to three diverse locales, strategically positioned to allow for a variety of day trips, or even overnights, for exploring nearby sites and towns. For these short trips you’ll carry an overnight bag at most, and avoid the necessity of taking everything you brought everywhere you go. For example, from Nice you can explore Cannes, Antibes, Grasse and St Raphael, take a day trip to Monaco and another into the mountains. Combine that with a week on Paris, or the châteaux of the Loire, based in Tours or Blois. Throughout France, there are wonderful options for this type of travel, which will allow you to settle in and become a bit more familiar with your own surroundings, without giving up the opportunity to take in a lot more in the process. It is also

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worth forgoing some of the famous sights in favor of time spent meandering among vineyards, lavender fields and villages whose names you may be completely unknown to you. In one 10-day holiday in a gîte near Avignon we found plenty to enchant us within a 50km radius. So, assess your energy, goals for your trip, and how you’d like to spend your time, and you shouldn’t have any problem deciding which method is right for you.

Here are some of the considerations to weigh in making decisions concerning time and budget. • Stay away from chic resorts to save on high-priced lodging. The coast is a commodity, as there is simply not enough beach to go round during the summer exodus. Going inland will save you money and give you a taste for the real France. You can always make daytrips to the sea. �WORTH NOTING: Unlike home, there is rarely any penalty for renting a car in one city and dropping it off in another, unless they’re in two different countries. Check with your car rental company for specifics.

Cost vs. Time, Convenience and Comfort If you have an unlimited budget, you can skip this section. However, independent travelers often seek to spend their money where it will benefit them the most. To that aim, it helps to know when cutting certain costs will save you real money in the end, and when spending it can make a real difference in how much you see and how road-weary you are when you see it. For instance, how big a car should you choose? Will you be uncomfortable on the train in 2nd class? Do you need a rail pass or can you buy point-to-point tickets? How much money do you need to spend on a hotel not to be disappointed? Are tour guides worth the money?

• Cars are expensive – and useless – in cities and towns. Increasingly historic cities and towns are making town centers pedestrian-only and putting parking underground. It’s a great solution to the parking problems but is universally expensive (e.g., €18 a day in Montpellier). Whenever possible, use trains to visit surrounding towns, and rent a car for a day for exploring the countryside if you need to. If you do take your car to a town, check beforehand if there is a park and ride scheme where you leave your car in a peripheral car lot, and take a tram or bus into the centre. Some hotels have special deals with underground garages, so do let them know if you are arriving by car.

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• If staying in a gîte or a rural chambre d’hôte, a car will be a necessity. Having one enables you to come and go as you please, and unlike staying in town, you won’t pay for parking. If there’s a train station nearby, you’ll often be able to leave the car there at no charge while taking that overnight jaunt. This is even true of some regional airports! • Use taxis when they offer you the most convenience, but stick to public transit for everyday. If you’re particularly tired, hot, or late for a train or plane, spring for the taxi; however, using public transportation regularly is quite convenient, easy on the pocketbook, and will make you feel less of a tourist. It can also sometimes be impossible to get a taxi so don’t count on it. �WORTH NOTING: You don’t need an international driver’s license to rent a car in France, although it’s recommended because it’s a translation of your own driver’s license. You can easily obtain one at a small fee through AAA. • Where luggage is concerned, less is much more convenient. We think Mr. Frommer said it best: “Never take more than you can carry single-handedly when running for a bus or a train.” This is even more critical if you’re traveling solo, as anyone who has tried to squeeze into a public toilet with two large suitcases will be the first to admit. In any case, you will

be handling your own luggage most, if not all of the time, and the benefits of a manageable amount will far outweigh any gained by packing for every possible contingency. • Evaluate the value of guided tours. A well-chosen guided tour can provide a delightful and enriching experience in a foreign city. Some Tourist Office tours can gain you access to sights that are closed to the general public. In the case of museums, you’ll not only bypass lines, but also learn much more about the exhibits than from the audio guide, or brief, written museum descriptions. Happily, France is not a country of umbrella-touting guides leading parties of 40 or 50; small groups and specialized, themed tours are more its style. Weigh the enjoyment you will get from this with the cost and potential annoyance of going at someone else’s pace – or opt for one of the many guidebooks that offer well-researched walking tours. If you’re considering a coach tour, opt for the “hop on, hop off” rather than the “point and stare” variety so you can combine the ride with a visit to some of the sights. • To avoid wasting time standing in line at popular sites, book tickets in advance, and/or invest in a city sightseeing pass. Both are on sale at tourist offices and online. Even the book and music store Fnac, with branches everywhere and an Internet site, sells museum tickets. A cunning plan for the

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Louvre is to buy a pre-paid ticket at the Carrousel du Louvre Fnac, then walk straight in. Otherwise, visit exhibitions at lunchtime or on Thursday eve, when lines will be shorter. • Make sure the train travel you anticipate will be worth the price of the rail pass you’re considering. Compare sample rail fares with the average cost of a rail-pass day before you decide which, if any, might be appropriate. (See Rail Pass discussion further ahead.) • If you won’t be long, stand up at the bar. The higher prices for sitting on the terrace are worth it if you’re planning to pass the afternoon people watching and writing postcards. But if you’re just grabbing a coffee on the way to the museum, have it at the bar with the locals. • Get to restaurants before 1pm. By anticipating the regimented French lunch hour crowd, you’ll be seated more quickly, and in a nicer spot. • Never be afraid to order the house wine. If we order it at home we have to hold our noses while we drink it (and likely pay $6 for the privilege). In France, you’ll sample young, locally produced wines, and they’ll be just fine. If you’re looking for a specific wine from a particular region, do review the wine list; but remember that un quart (one-

fourth liter, about two glasses) of the house wine will cost less than the soft drink your friend is having. • If you’ve checked your coat, leave before everyone else. More a time than money saver; you’ll avoid the inevitable chaotic scramble to reclaim your belongings.



RAIL PASS, or POINT-to-POINT?

French train (full) fares are among the most expensive in Europe and are on a par with airfares. Fortunately, there are discounted fares available from SNCF (Prems, for example, are economical tickets available for certain dates or time periods) – best booked online, although it sometimes can be challenge. If you’re considering visiting more than one city or region, a rail pass is a good idea, as it can save you both money and the headache of wading through the vast variety of fares and offers of an unfamiliar system. There are discounts for rail passes for the under 26s, over 60s or if you are traveling in a group of two or more. Passes can be easily booked and paid for in dollars before you leave home, while other versions are available once in France.

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You can save money with a pass on faster trains, but they can actually cost you when using them on slower trains for shorter journeys. To determine if (or when) a rail pass will more economical for a particular route, divide the total rail pass cost by the number days you’ll be traveling; then, compare corresponding rail fares for specific journey on the SNCF rail site (see a more thorough description in France: Instructions for Use). You’ll be able to make an informed decision, and begin to become familiar with the train system in the meantime. It pays to anticipate the kind of rail travel you’re planning to do in order to determine if a rail pass is the most logical and cost-effective choice for your trip. Read the chapter Getting Around: By Train in France: Instructions for Use to better understand the rail system and how it operates, including the table providing sample fare comparisons. More Rail Pass Particulars

Rail passes come in a variety of flavors, offering values for the day (Transilien), several days, first class for seniors, two or more people traveling together, or youth under 26 years old. Offering two days’ unlimited first-class rail travel plus two days’ car rental with unlimited mileage (additional days can be added), the France Rail ’n’ Drive pass is an excellent way to combine getting there fast on the TGV with renting a car on arrival to meander country roads. �WORTH NOTING: Remember, certain versions of rail passes are available for purchase only before you travel. See raileurope.com for complete, current rail pass information. Reservations where required can be made up to two months in advance from where you purchased your pass, at a travel agency, or at train stations in France. Make sure to validate your rail pass at the ticket window the first time you use it.

The in-country version of the France Rail Pass can be bought from French travel agents, over the Internet, or at a train station when you arrive (look for the guichets that display INTERNATIONAL on their electronic panels).

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�WORTH NOTING: Remember, your rail pass is not a reservation, which you’ll need to make before you board a TGV or Corail Téoz train.

FRANCE: Instructions for Use

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Planning Your French Adventure

 LUGGAGE and

re paring To Go

WARDROBE

When you travel here at home, you pack up all your stuff, stash it in the car, and either head for the hills or for the airport. The furthest you have to manually transport your luggage is from the car to the ticket counter or the entrance to the hotel – often with some assistance – so concern with amount of luggage is largely irrelevant. This is not the case in Europe, and certainly not in France, and certainly not if you’re in anything but the money-is-no-object set. • It’s advisable to take more, smaller bags rather than any big ones. The only place you will ever see a porter is at a high-class hotel. While luggage trolleys are free at the airport, as soon as you leave its confines you are on your own. Even getting onto the RER transport into Paris at Charles de Gaulle airport can be hellish: first you may have to take a free bus to get there, depending on which terminal you arrive at; then, you must pass through the ticket barrier where there is rarely someone available to open the wide-girth gate. Ahead, more often then not, you’ll find the down escalator isn’t escalating

today, with more stairs to climb at the other end of the passage. Taxis into town are an easier, though expensive option, as unfortunately you will pay a supplement for each piece of luggage that you put in the trunk. However, the savings from taking one large suitcase in a taxi are vastly outweighed (excuse the pun) by the inconvenience this will cause you at almost every other turn. �WORTH NOTING: Luggage carts at train stations accept €1 coins, so have some on hand if you'll be needing a cart for luggage transfer, especially if you are taking the train directly from the airport. Though France installed one of the world’s first elevators in the Eiffel Tower, it seems to have forgotten to put them almost anywhere else. Never will you climb as many stairs as you do here (except perhaps in Italy!). They are everywhere – between platforms in the labyrinthine Paris Metro, boarding or getting off trains, in hotels where historic building rules sometimes prohibit their installation, and even along the street (think carefully before booking a hotel in Montmartre or in Lyon’s old town). Where there are escalators, they often don’t work; it seems that particularly in places where people will be carrying a lot of luggage, they're inexistent – such as between the Metrò platforms and at the main station Gare du

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Nord. People will normally be glad to help if you ask them, though you will get more assistance from fellow travelers than from the staff. �WORTH NOTING: Luggage deposits tend to be in the form of lockers, and extra large pieces of luggage will not fit in them (another motive to take smaller bags). You may also have to descend stairs to get to the depot, as at Gare du Nord. • Thicker is better than wider, and leave your hands free. Pack for agility rather than total preparedness: in bags no wider than the aisle of an airplane or train car. Our tried and tested formula is one medium suitcase on wheels that is not too heavy to lug down stairs, one carry-on sized shoulder bag or small backpack, and a purse that also goes across your shoulder (alternatively a strap-on fanny pack). An additional smaller bag can be piggybacked onto the suitcase if need be. That way you can move freely own your own, and keep your hands free to access tickets, money and passport. • The more wheels, the merrier. Wheeled suitcases are one of the 20th century’s most underrated inventions. They will save you from back problems and make walking those 17 train carriages to the one you are booked on a stroll rather

than an exhausting hike (the Eurostar in particular has very long trains and little time to get on them as the gates to the platform are opened shortly before the train is due to leave). They also make moving in slow check-in lines easier. Think about it: “backpackers” must be crazy to walk bent double with those heavy sacks on their backs when they could be pulling their luggage behind them with lots less effort – backpacks are only really necessary when the terrain won’t support the wheels. Make sure, though, that your wheels and handle are sturdy, that the handle is long enough so that you can walk upright without catching your heels on the bag, and that it’s not too heavy to carry up and down stairs. Wardrobe Tips It’s actually quite easy to pack an efficient, comfortable wardrobe – it’s often the non-wardrobe items that take up the most space and add the most weight. Follow these guidelines to assure you’ll have plenty to wear and still conform to your self-imposed luggage restrictions. • No matter how long your stay, pack only for one week. You’ll have ample opportunity to do laundry if you’re staying longer, and depending on the item, you’ll be able to wear many more than once without laundering. Smaller items such as socks and under things can be washed out overnight if

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need be. As long as you’re confident the weather will be fairly consistent during your stay, there’s really no need to pack for a longer period. • If you choose the right shoes, two pair should be plenty. France is a very physical country, so you’ll probably be on your feet much more than you normally are at home – touring marble-floored museums, climbing hilly streets, scurrying for buses and trains – and almost all on stone slabs, cobbles or concrete. Choose shoes made for giving your feet the support they need (tennis shoes are not ideal), and don’t make the mistake of purchasing a pair you wear for the first time on your trip. There are many types of shoes that will be both comfortable as well as appropriate for whatever else you’re wearing. We find Birkenstocks ideal for sightseeing in summer, and that way you don’t have to pack socks. For your second pair, choose something dressier if you like, or heartier for serious hiking. • Knit away. Minimize clothing that will require an iron, and you’ll simplify your traveling life significantly. You won’t have to dedicate valuable luggage space to a weighty travel iron, or worry

about the hotel having one available at the right moment. If you’re only going for a week though, a couple of linen pants and shirts that you’ve ironed and carefully packed are lovely to put on in hot weather. • Choose a palette. If you’re a slave to fashion – or at least prefer to arrive in a country not looking, as David Sedaris puts it in Me Talk Pretty One Day, as if you’ve come to mow its lawn – you can pack efficiently and still be assured that you’ll have plenty to wear. Instead of “outfits,” choose clothing that coordinates instead, and you’ll never have to worry about what’s clean and what’s not. Throw everything you plan to take on the bed; then remove all but two coordinating colors and the neutrals. You’ll look less “touristy” and never be stuck with the only remaining clean pieces being impossible to combine. To blend in with the French, or to look smart, wear dark colors. As Inès de la Fressange said when asked what is the secret of Frenchwomen’s chic: “They always wear black.” How simple is that! • Think layers when you expect unpredictable weather; and quite frankly, the weather’s always be unpredictable in France. Summer 2006 delivered weeks of rain where people resorted to wearing their winter coats, while January 2007 was positively spring-like. In April and October there will be a chill in

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the air, while May and September can be warm during the day, but chilly at night; cold spells can occur any time of year. Rain, sometimes torrential in summer, can arrive unexpectedly. If you’re doing any active sightseeing (and much of it will be), you’ll warm up as you stride to make your appointments, and cool down exploring churches and cathedrals while museums can be hot. Include both under-wear (camisoles, tanks, tees, and turtlenecks) and outerwear (a cardigan, pullover or jacket) that you can layer on or peel off as the weather changes Packing for the Airlines Airlines are becoming increasingly restrictive with carry-on luggage. At the time of this writing, you are permitted on carry-on bag and one personal bag (i.e., your purse if you have one), and if you’re taking a computer, it will likely need to be in one of those. Make sure to keep valuables such as cameras in hand luggage. Some airlines restrict both weight and size, and low-cost airlines, which you may be using to make internal French or European flights, can be less generous with weight allowances than trans-Atlantic flights. Check with the airline if you are planning to travel in this way to avoid excess charges and frantic reshuffling at the ticket counter. �WORTH NOTING: You may be required to remove shoes and belts when passing through security; wearing slip-ons Page 18

are therefore easier. Also expect these security measures and a full passport check with Eurostar trains to England. ATTENTION: Security measures following the thwarted London terrorist attempt in 2006 mean that not only would pocketknives, scissors, tweezers and any other item deemed sharp be confiscated from hand luggage, but liquids and semi-solids as well, including drinks, makeup (even lipstick), and hair products. Passengers are permitted to carry up to 100ml (about 3.6 oz) of each of toothpaste, face creams, etc., packed in an approximately 4"x 8"resealable bag, also available at security. You can buy water beyond the security check, but you may not be allowed to carry certain food products, even duty-free (acrylic paints in tubes have been taken off passengers who stowed them in hand luggage). �WORTH NOTING: Vigipirate is the French word for heightened security. It can be used to introduce security controls that range from frisking, to no parking, and even the absence of garbage cans.

FRANCE: Instructions for Use

Planning Your French Adventure

 MONEY MATTERS The Euro replaced the franc as legal tender in France on January 1, 2002. The Euro note has some of the same denominations as the dollar, though the smallest bill is €5. Euros bought in France can be used throughout the euro zone (which, remember, does not include Great Britain). Plan on using the ATM as your primary mode of currency exchange. Even though your bank may charge you a fee for using the foreign machine, the rates will be better than at currency exchange counters. The ATM, most often referred to as the distributeur, will offer you the choice of instructions in English and is connected to major banking networks (noted on the back of your card). Distributeurs operate 24/7 and are found installed at banks, airports, and some (though not all) train stations. Make sure that you bring at least two cards that will work in a cash machine. Cash (or debit) cards can be used at an ATM, but also like a charge card wherever merchants accept credit cards. In addition, ask your bank to issue a card that’s purely an ATM card, that you can use as a backup if something happens

to your main card. (Explain to your bank what you’re trying to accomplish and they’ll make sure you get what you need.) As you travel, keep your main card in your wallet and store your backup card in your suitcase or money belt. Then, if something unexpected happens to one of them, you’ll still have access to cash. Although we don’t recommend it, credit cards will also work in the ATM – just make sure that you have a four-digit PIN for each card and that you understand any and all fees involved, which can be significant. ATTENTION: Although most banks give decent exchange rates, you should check with yours before you leave to find out its terms for withdrawing cash abroad with a debit card. Cards incur a 1-3% commission charge for using cash machines that don’t belong to that bank. There could be a charge by the bank you withdraw from. NEVER use credit cards, as you’ll be paying interest on the money from the day you withdraw it for the privilege. Some additional suggestions:  Let your bank know you’ll be traveling. Banks and credit card companies sometimes block usage temporarily if they think someone else may be using the card.

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 Verify your bank fees for international ATM withdrawals. They may be higher than that for regular other-bank ATMs, so to avoid unexpected surprises on your bank statement on your return, verify them beforehand. 1% of withdrawal amount is also the most you should pay; discuss account options with your bank if they’re higher than that. �WORTH NOTING: Once again, check the terms with your bank before using your credit card in France. MasterCard and Visa charge a 2% commission for foreign transactions, but your bank may raise this to 3%. Fodor’s recommends Capital One, which even absorbs the 1% Visa or MasterCard charge, and American Express, with a flat 2% fee. Avoid cards with a 3% currency conversion charges; when you consider the amount you’ll be spending on your trip, over hotels, restaurants and purchases, the bank is really making a profit from your pleasure.

exception might be if you feel the dollar value is heading in the wrong direction and you want to stock up ahead of time.  Obtain non-toll-free phone numbers for banks (credit cards should have them on the back). Toll-free numbers can be tricky to access from abroad, if possible at all. Credit cards often provide these numbers on the backs of their cards, either for toll access or calling collect. Copy these numbers and keep the information separate from the cards themselves (see Copy Important Documents below).  Don’t count on Travelers Checks. Once a travel staple and a reliable currency substitute, Travelers Checks these days are more a liability than a convenience, and have become much more difficult to tender in most locations. A better choice would be to make sure you have multiple cards that function in a distributeur.

 Raise your daily ATM withdrawal limit. In case you need an unusual amount of cash in one day, make sure your bank will allow you to withdraw an adequate amount.

 Purchase a money belt that’s as light as possible and either hangs from your neck or straps around your waist. This is the best place to store valuables when in transit: passports, airline tickets, extra currency and spare credit/debit cards, along with a copy of critical phone and credit card numbers, etc.

 There’s no need to purchase Euro currency to bring with you unless you can verify that you'd pay less — just head for the ATM on your arrival at the airport or train station. The

For a more detailed discussion on safety and warnings concerning pickpockets, please see Avoiding Trouble in the MONEY chapter in France: Instructions for Use.

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 CELL PHONES: Can We Talk? This discussion ought to be a simpler one...but it won’t be. Just remember: everything’s easy when you know how. If you’d prefer the I-Just-Don’t-Want-To-Deal-With-It option, you can opt to rent a cell phone. There are a variety of companies that offer this possibility, from Cellular Abroad, to Telestial, to Daystar Wireless. Even AutoEurope offers cell phone rentals. However, as with most I-Just-Don’t-Want-ToDeal-With-It options, it can be an expensive one. If you’d prefer to understand a bit more about the process and make an informed choice, brace yourselves, and read on. There are two determinations that must be made: first, that you have a phone that will work in Europe; and if so, what service provider you want to use with it. Will My Cell Phone Work? It might, or it might not. For a cell phone to function outside North America, it must: • work on a GSM network (remember, if there’s a SIM, it’s GSM) • operate on a European frequency (900/1800). In North America, the various service providers use one of two types of networks: GSM and CDMA. French and European cell networks are GSM only, so you must first have a phone that

functions on a GSM network. Your service provider can verify this for you; or, check to see whether your phone has a removable SIM chip that fits in a slot in the back of your phone, normally under the battery. If there is no SIM, your phone is not a GSM phone, and it will work neither in France, or anywhere else in Europe. You’ll instead need a different cell phone, skip ahead to I Have the Wrong Kind of Cell Phone. Next, because cell phones used in Europe and North America operate on different frequencies, the phone you take to Europe must operate on a frequency of 900/1800. If you choose a dual, tri, or quad-band phone, it will operate using the frequencies utilized in both locations (US: 850/1900; Europe 900/1800). My Cell Phone Qualifies. Now What? If your phone meets the above two requirements, you know that it will operate in Europe. Now, you’ll now only need to choose a service provider. Your options are: • Use your current US service provider ($1 or more per minute for making and receiving calls). • Use an French service provider (calls will cost 15 - 20 euro cents per minute within France. Incoming calls are free.) For the first option, you’ll leave your SIM in place, and use your provider to connect with the French cell networks to

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make and receive calls (it’s the roaming charges that make this option an expensive one). Check with your cellular service provider to see if they have an international rate plan available. A common call rate is $1 or more per minute for all calls incoming and outgoing (with no extra charge to connect), and if your phone will work in France, you’ll avoid any phone rental charge. ATTENTION: U.S. service providers “lock” cell phones for use solely with SIMs they issue; therefore, you must unlock your cell phone before it will work with a SIM issued by any other provider (US or otherwise). They should be able to give you information on how to unlock your phone, or use an online service like thetravelinsider.com. You could also rent or purchase pre-paid SIM card with a local number from a French provider (there are several: Orange, Vodafone, SFR, Bouygues), to use in your phone. When using a French SIM, the language for phone operation itself will be English. Although SMS and voice messages from the service provider may be in French, the operation is fairly straight forward, and usually poses little problem. The per-minute call cost will significantly less, and because within France only the caller pays; you’ll never pay for any call you receive.

So, check with your service provider for their international plans, see the Appendix in France: Instructions for Use for other recommendations. If you’re more adventurous, prefer a more economical option, and care to spend your planning time to investigate, consider an French prepaid cell phone. I Have The Wrong Kind of Cell Phone. If this will be one of many trips to Europe, consider purchasing a cell phone that will work there, either in France (where you can find one for about €70 or less, sold unlocked from any vendor), or in the U.S. (a tri- or quad-band, unlocked, from ebay.com, for example). You can then purchase an French pre-paid SIM and add credit as you go. If you’re looking for a cell for this trip alone, it’s probably best to return to the original I-Just-Don’t-Want-To-Deal-With-It option.

 OTHER CONSIDERATIONS Electricity Electric current in France (and Europe) is 220v, while in North America it’s 120v. If you’re taking electronic devices that are not dual-voltage, you’ll need a voltage converter, available from many travel stores. This is much less common or as necessary as it once was, however, as many portable devices such as hair dryers, lap-

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tops, cell phones, and digital cameras are dual voltage, which makes purchasing and carrying a weighty converter unnecessary. In this case, you will need only American to French plug adapter (with two small, round pins) for the wall plug, that will be both far less expensive and lighter for traveling.

sible records with a friend or relative. Take paper copies, a CD backup, or even a USB drive with you, and be sure to keep these separate from the items themselves in the event something unforeseen happens. �WORTH NOTING: Record your eyeglass or contact lens prescription. (Even if nothing gets lost, you may spot a chic pair of frames you can’t resist...)

You can order plug adapters online from a company such as www.world-import.com/plugs.htm, or by doing a Google search on "plug adapter." In France, plug adapters are inexpensive and readily available at almost any electric supply store. Ask at your hotel, or look for a BHV, Darty or Monoprix supermarkets. Just ask for adaptateurs. �WORTH NOTING: Review the power information on the label or manual for your device or appliance. If the capacity is 110-120v, you’ll need a voltage converter; if it reads 120 - 220v, the plug adapter is all you’ll need. Important Document Records Copy, scan, or otherwise make a record of all passports, credit cards, telephone numbers, prescriptions (in their generic form as opposed to brand name), your itinerary, and any other critical documents. Leave paper, e-mail, or other easily acces-

�WORTH NOTING: Consider a Credit Card Protection service to cover all your credit cards and important documents in case of theft. There is a single number to call to have all your cards cancelled, money spent by the thieves before you report it is reimbursed, emergency money can be wired and costs reimbursed for a replacement passport. Health and Travel Insurance Patients pay for France’s famously efficient health service, but then are then reimbursed by their social security and health insurance plans. You will therefore never be refused healthcare, but will be required to pay at time of service. This is fine for a visit to a doctor (un généraliste) which costs less than €20-€30, but a hospital visit could prove much more costly. Check whether this will be covered by

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your own health and homeowner’s insurance, and review any specific coverage for exceptional situations, such as transportation costs for having to return home unexpectedly, either because of your own health, a turn-of-events at home, or for other unforeseeable emergencies. A number of reputable companies offer travel insurance at varying but reasonable rates, depending on the type of coverage. There are a variety of plans covering trip cancellation, trip interruption, and other extenuating circumstances. In these unpredictable times, we highly recommend choosing one of these options, if only for the peace of mind they afford. Air Travel Tips If you have a connection, review it with the ticket agent while checking in for your initial flight. If he can, have them note your arrival and departure gates and terminal on the connecting airport map. (You can review airport layouts on their Web sites, and there will often be an airport map provided in the envelope you receive at check in and en-route in the back of in-flight magazines.) This can be especially important if you have a short layover. With the intense security precautions that are in place these days, delays can sometimes be insurmountable without assistance.

If you’re concerned about the time you have, find the nearest airline representative on your arrival and (respectfully) ask for help. You may request that someone escort you to the connecting gate — avoiding delays in immigration and security — although we always hope the airline will have determined in advance that this will be necessary and make an announcement prior to landing. In the air, there are some important points to remember that will aid in your recovery from jet lag:  Drink as much water as you can during your flight. Pressurized air is inherently dehydrating, as are lack of sleep and alcohol, all of which will contribute to the jet lag you’ll experience when you arrive. The more water you can to drink (take an empty water bottle and ask the flight attendant to fill it for you), the more you’ll help your body counter the dehydrating effects of air travel, thus lessening jet lag.  When traveling from west to east, sleep on the plane. Use a mask, earplugs, and an over-the-counter sleep inducer if you need it, but in the end there’s nothing like sleep and daylight to help shorten jet lag. We’ve heard the effect of sleeping on the plane described as “trying to convince your body it’s a short night.” Sleep on the flight, stay awake and in the light during the day, and make sure you again sleep

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through the whole first night upon arrival. From east to west, it’s not quite as important to sleep, as your body will translate it as an extended day (look forward to popping up bright and early, say 4-ish, for the next several days on your return home).

while digesting a meal (try to choose sleep over food). Alcohol is dehydrating and will add its effects to the pressurized air and short-sleep night, adding insult to injury as your body attempts to adjust itself once you arrive.

�WORTH NOTING: Keep in mind that you will not be penalized for flying into one city (or country, for that matter) and out of another. This is referred to as Open Jaws travel and affords much more flexibility when planning your itinerary, while reducing transit time.  Minimize your intake of food and alcohol en-route. This is more important from west to east. It can be harder to sleep

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�WORTH NOTING: This may seem like an odd recommendation, but be sure to take a good pair of earplugs along. Whether in a hotel, plane, or train, they can provide a simple solution to getting the critical rest you need, affording just enough separation from unfamiliar surroundings that can be noisier than you’re used to.

FRANCE: Instructions for Use

T

en Tips for the Traveler Abroad

Planning Your French Adventure on a weekend, and you’re not willing to do without a view, bathroom, or an ideal location, book lodging on your preferred travel dates even a year in advance. Snag airline reservations later when you’re comfortable with fare offerings.



Throughout more than a decade of traveling extensively (and now living) in Europe, we’ve assembled these suggestions to ensure confident, adventurous travel:  Leave Home Sweet Home behind. This sounds like obvious advice, doesn’t it? Yet, we feel compelled to make it our number-one tip. If you’re not a frequent traveler abroad, it can come as a shock that people do things differently elsewhere, for a variety of reasons, many of which we don’t understand because we don’t live there. Once abroad, shift into discovery mode (oh, that out-ofcontrol feeling) to get the most enjoyment out of your trip.  Book early to get that Room With A View. There are millions upon millions of us traveling every year, all reading the same guidebooks and researching the same websites for every charming twelve-room retreat from Paris to Provence. If you’re traveling during May through October, especially

 However much luggage you’re taking, it’s too much. There’s a common “take everything” approach that makes much more sense when you’re loading up for a road trip than for traveling in Europe. Concentrate instead on efficiency — you’ll be much happier unencumbered when navigating unfamiliar territory (even Paris’ iconic Gare du Nord). You’re not traveling to the Antarctic — you can always pick up the occasional missing item ‘round most any corner.  Plan ahead for experiences that are really important to you. Allow plenty of time to make plans, connections and decisions. Acquire appropriate maps and review them carefully before you drive. Remember that it will be difficult to eat (well) after 2 p.m. and before 7 p.m., or find an attended gas station in more remote areas during lunch hour, or l’heure du déjeuner.  Don’t try to see too much in too short a time, whether in one day or ten. Realize that each time you change locations, you lose all or part of a day. Relocating always involves packing and preparation time the night before, the transfer itself, locating

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new lodgings and checking in, and getting oriented once again. Give yourself time to absorb what you do see, and allow time for rest and renewal. You don’t have to see everything this trip; if you like it, trust us, you’ll be back.  Remember you’re visiting a country, not a theme park. Because there’s so much to take in, it’s only natural to view France as having been created specifically for our entertainment. France has hosted visitors for centuries, and provide many options for exploring and experiencing all they have to offer — including French values, French culture, and the French approach to life — without destroying it in the process. The more you search for this authenticity, the more important it will be to surrender to whatever you find there.  Take a deep breath before drawing the conclusion that something doesn’t work or isn’t there, just because you’re not familiar with it.

As Mark Twain warns in Innocents Abroad, “The gentle reader has no idea what a consummate ass he can become until he has traveled abroad.” Americans, for example, are known for their gregariousness (not a bad thing), and for speaking à haute voix, and in their own expansive surroundings, are not used to being overheard.  It can help to remember the Stones’ famous words, “You Can’t Always Get What You Want...” Operating in a strange environment can be a real test of your patience, but that’s part of what we must expect when we travel. You’ll inevitably encounter the irritating hitch here and there, usually when you least expect it. In such situations, take on the role of an honored guest, not a paying customer, and you’ll be far more likely to receive whatever assistance you might require.

You’ve only been here a day or so, are still jet lagged, and have a lot coming at you. When something makes no sense at all, just breathe once more; you’re much more likely to find the answer you’re looking for if you can search with a tranquil pair of eyes.

Read up on how things operate, double-check openings and closings, get the maps you need, and allow plenty of time to handle the unexpected, to avoid unintentionally insulting a mass of passersby in a moment of frustration in the more compact European environment — where almost everyone speaks some English.

 Remember there’s always someone nearby who understands exactly what you say, good or bad.

 Be alert, not paranoid. When in transit, dress comfortably and simply, instead of

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like an unconsciously-wealthy traveler who’s just put a boatload of cash exactly where an unconsciously-wealthy traveler might put it — ready to be pilfered by an experienced pickpocket who knows them all too well. Leave expensive jewelry at home. Use ATMs, and avoid carrying lots of cash. Especially when in transit and in crowded tourist venues, split cash between a money belt and a pocket

or bag that closes securely; never turn your back on your luggage or your purse. Finally, remember that there is no amount of will, determination, or amount of cash that can convince this superbe country to be anything other than French — nor would we have it any other way. Just see if you can switch gears a bit, let the culture seep into your pores, and see what you discover in the process.

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E

Planning Your French Adventure

n Francais: Not What, but How

You’ve been diligently studying at home and listening to CDs as you drive to learn what you can of the language, and this will serve you well. However, taking a little extra time to familiarize yourself with the correct pronunciation of the written language, along with learning some key words and phrases, could make the difference between an endless search for the café where you’re to meet fellow travelers, or being the ones to welcome them after their search, as you enjoy a nice kir.

if you are not word perfect, and your interlocutors will often find un petit accent utterly charming. As in most foreign languages, correct pronunciation is critical: speaking French words according to how we’d pronounce them will sound like pure gobbledygook to a native speaker. Using correct pronunciation gives you your best chance to obtain a helpful response — instead of the famous Gallic shrug. Pronunciation? Pro-non-si-a-si-ON. Why is it that, after a glass of wine (or two), our French seems to flow so much better? It’s not an illusion — speaking French well requires losing your inhibitions and camping it up a bit.

Though you’ll meet many French people who speak English, there are many who don’t, including quite a few bedand-breakfast owners. This is partly because the French tend to vacation in their own or other Francophone (French-speaking) countries. The case for English was not helped by the likes of Jacques Chirac, who walked out of an international summit when his ministers began addressing listeners in English!.

Pouting is natural to the French because their vowel sounds demand it. Pretend that you are François Mitterrand with his down turned mouth, or imitate Brigitte Bardot’s famous pucker-pout. Our private French teacher achieved in one day what years of school-French had not, by having us stand in front of the mirror, pooch our lips, and pronounce beurre (“buhrh,” butter), cour (“coorh,” courtyard), and tour (“toorh,” tower) till we got it right. “You should be able to see your lips when looking down your nose,” she instructed. Try it — with or without the wine. However foolish you may feel, it works!

Most locals are quite willing to help, and appreciate your efforts to communicate in their language. It doesn’t matter

As you’ll notice in your language CDs, the “e” at the end of many words is lightly sounded as “uh,” which in turn enables

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you to enunciate the preceding vowels and consonants. Practice the vowel sounds until what at first seems exaggerated begins to feel natural. We also recommend listening to classic French singers — Brassens, Gainsbourg or Piaf — who exaggerate the “uh” sound in their style of singing. Start With the Vowels Each written vowel, including those with accents or in combination, has a different sound. Moving through the vowel sounds means progressing from a cheesy “ee” to a downcast “or” and moody “oo” — with all the permutations in between. Lips pursed? Try this traveler intro: The vowels

are sounded

like

as in

which means

a, â

ah

lama

a-mi

friend

ai

ey

whey

j’ai

I have

é-té chez

é, -er, -es, -ez “ e, è, ê

eh

“ bet

e

uh

muck

je

I

eu

urh

fur

meuble

furniture

oi

wa

way

voilà

there!

e

silent

boule

ball

(The circumflex accent acts as an override, so a vowel instead retains its normal pronunciation: Nîmes, âne.) Now, have fun experimenting with the famous nasal sounds which occur when a vowel is followed by an n or m. Think “Maurice Chevalier.” (You do remember Maurice, non?) In these examples, the final consonants are not pronounced, because they’re not followed by a vowel: The combo

is a nasal

as in (Fr.)

pronounced

and means

summer home of

an, en,

ehn

vent

vehn

wind

belle

beautiful

in, im,

ahn

faim,

fehn,

hunger,

here

vin

vahn

wine

i, î

e

bee

ici

o, ô, au, eau

o

low

au revoir goodbye water l’eau

ou, u

ou

food

coup

a blow

u, û

euh

pew

u-tile

useful

em ain, eim on

ohn

bon

ohn

good

un

un

brun

bruhn

brown

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Consistent Consonants Fortunately, most of the consonants are pronounced the same as in English, but their placement in the word can cause them to change sounds or be swallowed, as above. Alors:

nounced at the back of the mouth, a bit like clearing your throat. Run it into the following vowel and it becomes easy. Practice saying beurre (butter), farine (flour), route (road), regarder (to look), rapide (quick).

c becomes k before a, o or u: canard (duck), comptoir (counter), culotte (shorts); s before i and e as in cinéma (cinema) and cendrier (ashtray). The ç (cedilla) in façade and français is always an s sound.

s turns into a z at the end of a stressed syllable, as in maison (“mai-zon,” house), rose (rose or pink); it remains a normal s at the beginning of a word, as in sucre (sugar), sel (salt), samedi (Saturday)

ch is pronounced sh, as in champagne, chat (cat), and recherche (search). Try this for a tongue-twister: Chacun cherche son chat (Everyone’s looking for his cat). g is soft before i and e, as in gentil; otherwise it’s a hard sound, as in la gare. Before n it becomes a “nyu” sound: oignon (onion). h Silent at the beginning of a word, as in hameau (“ahmo,” or hamlet), and after t, thé (tea) pronounced “tay,” and théâtre (theatre), pronounced “tay-atre” ll Double l is pronounced like y: fille (girl), pronounced “fee-yuh” qu is “kuh,” as in que (“ku”); the oi as in Quoi? (“Kwa?” What?) is the “wah” sound. r one of the most difficult sounds, the French r is pro-

Quiet Please One of the most difficult components to master is that in French, consonants at the end of a word are either silent, or swallowed into the preceding vowels...unless, of course, they are followed by a vowel. For example, adjective endings change depending on what they describe: petit and petite (small) are pronounced puh-tee and puh-teet; gros and grosse (fat) are pronounced groh and gross. Make sense? This means that plurals (ending in s or x) often sound exactly like their singulars: maison and maisons (house/ houses); château and châteaux (castle/castles). For verbs, you will often find a whole cluster of letters at the end that look different but are pronounced the same (their sole purpose is to sound the end of the root). Regardez:

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• -er or -ez and the end of a verb is pronounced “ay:” So, regarder and regardez are both pronounced ruh-gar-day (to look).

architecture final hôtel invitation orange parking rendezvous

• -es or -ent become a barely perceptible “uh,” as in regardes (you look), regardent (they look). They serve only to force us to enunciate the preceding consonant (in this case “d”), which would otherwise be silent. • -is or –it at the end of a verb are pronounced “ee;” –issent is pronounced “eess.” • ons, or -ont at the end of a verb is pronounced as the nasal “onhg:” regardons (we look). • l, m and n at the end of words are an exception. They are sounded, but slightly swallowed; and when they end with a vowel are more definitively pronounced: mignon and mignonne (cute); banal and banale (ordinary). An exception is the word fils (son), pronounced “feece.” (At least they occur together in the alphabet, which may help us remember them.) Eliminating Stress One of the simplest rules that will make your French sound French-er immédiatement, is the stressing of the final syllable. Take these words that appear in both languages to see what difference changing the emphasis makes:

ar-shi-tec-ture fee-nal o-tel ahn-vee-ta-si-on or-anje par-keeng ron-dey-voo

The French Connection The last step is the greatest hurdle of all — and the one that will elevate you the level of enunciator extraordinaire. Learning to run the sounds of one word into another isn’t easy, and there’s no shortcut that we know of. Becoming comfortable with this component, though, is the key to asking, then making sense of the verbal deluge that will come your way in response to your well-pronounced question. In French, the end of one word becomes the beginning of the next, sounding final consonants when they are followed by words beginning with vowels. (Believe it or not, this actually makes the pronunciation easier.) For example, the sentence Les enfants sont heureux (the children are happy) will sound something like lay_ zonfon_son_tuh-ruh. Pourquoi? Here, the “s” of les, normally silent, runs into the beginning of enfants as a “z” sound, and the “t”

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of sont, normally silent, is sounded at the beginning of heureux, with its silent “h.”

� WORTH NOTING: The easiest way to form a question is by starting it with Est-ce que…, pronounced es-kuh (Is that...). But, like us, the French often invert the verb and the noun, as in Voulez-vous… (Do you want…), Avezvous… (Do you have…). Adopting these phrases will make you feel instantly more fluent.

Don’t give up! Practice listening to whole phrases, as with your CDs, repeating them slowly and clearly, then look to see how these phrases are written. The language and the pronunciation will begin to make sense peu à peu, little by little. Now, Tune Your Ear Zat’s eet! Begin to associate the pronunciation with the written word, and practice with the vocabulary words at the end of the first chapter, Let’s Be Perfectly Frank according to these guidelines. Once en France, listen for these words and phrases as you go about your daily French life: at the bar, on the train, in stores. They’re little staples of the language that will help you feel more integrated, and give you your own opportunities to respond in a simple, but very French, way.

We won’t spell out the pronunciation in the Vocabulaire...refer back to this chapter whenever you need to. We will include common, key phrases in context, and also indicate whether the word is masculine or feminine. (Yes, French words have gender, but you’ll need to pursue a bona fide language course for more on that.) The correct usage of le, la, or les and un, une, or des can help clarify things not only for you, but for those trying to understand you. We hope you make a little extra effort to become familiar with the spoken language: we think you’ll find it will greatly enhance your travel experience.

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For everything else you'll need on-site during your French Adventure, here's what you'll find in the indispensable French operations manual, FRANCE: Instructions for Use*

� En France You know you’re en France, when . . . LET’S BE PERFECTLY FRANK Bienvenue en France



Hours of Operation Jours Fériés and the Pont Times, Dates and Numbers There’s France, and then there’s Pa-ree Bonjour, the Bise, and Being Frank French Dressing Et puis, je fume (but less) Strikes: les Grèves Frugal France?

GETTING AROUND: By Car La Circulation Types of Roads Road Signs & Roundabouts Lots of Parking Car Rental Reminders Filling Up: Faire le plein Rules of the Route GETTING AROUND: By Train Leave the Driving to Them

Types of Trains Which Class?





Fares, Ticketing & Reservations Voyagez avec SNCF.com Rail Pass: Oui, ou Non? The Train Station Train Schedules: les Horaires Luggage Drop: le Consigne All Aboard

GETTING AROUND: Other Options Regional Buses Ferries and Boats The Allostop Alternative Air France Lost Luggage: Bagages Perdus GETTING AROUND: In Town The Subway: Le Métro Beyond Le Métro: the Paris RER Le Tramway and Local Bus Service Taxis and Limousines By Bike: en Vélo On Foot KEEPING IN TOUCH

Allo? Phoning in France “Wee-Fee”: Online en France Page 34

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Planning Your French Adventure

� En France (cont.) MONEY The Euro Currency Exchange The ATM: Distributeur de Billets Pick a Card, Any Card Avoiding Trouble EATING and DRINKING

How can you govern a country that has 246 types of cheese? -- Charles De Gaulle



Types of Eateries Aperitif Time Le Repas Français Je prendrai... Ordering Your Meal Demystifying French Wine The Bill, the Tax, the Tip Now That’s Coffee Breakfast, Brunch...or the Lack Thereof

Le SHOPPING The Non-Smoker’s Tabac Papeteries and La Presse The Librarie is a Bookstore The Pharmacie Something to Eat Something to Wear Les Marchés: Fresh and Flea

Getting “Détaxéd”: the VAT Refund Merci et au revoir SHIPPING and the POST La Poste: the French Postal Service Private Shipping Services TOURIST INFORMATION

English Spoken Here

The OT Local Tour Guides and Private Tours Tourist Information Office Checklist Appendix A - Z Airline Companies: Intra-Europe, Airport websites, Assistance & Emergency Phone Numbers, Bus and Metro Companies: Regional, Bus and Metro Companies: Urban, Canal Boat Hire, Car Sharing, Car Rental, Cell Phone Rental, Conversions/Comparisons, Currency Exchange Rate, Customs Information, Embassies and Consulates (US), Ferry Companies, Guides & Online Travel Resources, Holidays and Annual Events, Internet Points & Service Providers (French), Language Instruction, Maps & Driving, Money, Numbers, Passport Information, Shipping Services, Tax (VAT) Refunds, Time, Date and Number Formats, Train Schedules & Ticketing, Train to Rail Pass Fare Comparisons, Travel Insurance, Travel Time and Cost Estimates

Vocabulary (English to French) Index Page 35

France: Instructions for Use Available from Amazon.com, bn.com, and any bookseller near you. For bulk sales, please contact Beagle Bay, Inc. at beaglebay.com, or call Jacqueline Simonds at 775.827.8654. Available through Ingram and Baker & Taylor and all major distributors as well. franceinstructions.com ISBN: 978-1885436-405