Planning Your Greek Adventure

P lanning Your

A dventure

GREE K

Welcome to the preparation portion of the Grecian Operations Manual, Greece: Instuctions for Use* — the only guide devoted solely to the practicalities of Greek travel.

* When all else fails, read the Instructions!

Live your myth in the Land of Gods, with expert knowledge at your fingertips!

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elcome to the preparation portion of the only guide devoted solely to the practicalities of traveling in the Land of Gods, Greece: Instructions for Use.

You’ll find helpful advice in response to questions you have about creating an itinerary, where and when to go, what to pack, whether or not to rent a car, take or leave your cell phone, fly or ferry, and more. Upon departing for the airport, you may never refer to this document again.

Grab a copy as you’re making plans, read a few pages a day, review it on the plane, and use it for how-to and what-now solutions when you’re finally in Greece. It's small enough to stash anywhere, and so light you won't even know it's there. Take a look at the last page of this document to see the incredible amount of insider’s assistance we’ve managed to pack into 3.5 ounces of Greece: Instructions for Use. Let's start planning!

What you will need on hand during your Greek adventure is the handbook itself, Greece: Instructions for Use.

Greece: Instructions for Use Available from Amazon.com, bn.com, and can be ordered from any bookseller near you. For bulk sales, please contact Jacqueline Simonds at Beagle Bay, Inc., 775.827.8654, or at sales@beaglebay. com. Greece: Instructions for Use is also available through all major distributors including Ingram and Baker & Taylor. illustratapress.com ISBN-13: 978-1885436-450

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ontents

Decisions, Decisions

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When Should We Go? 3 Where Should We Go? 2 4 Where Should We Stay? 6 Travel Style 8 Two Approaches 8 Cost vs. Time, Comfort and Convenience 9 Fly or Ferry to the Islands

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Preparing To Go

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Luggage and Wardrobe What to Pack How to Pack Money Matters Cell Phones: Roam, Rent or Recharge

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Other Considerations Electricity Do I Need a Visa for Greece? Driver’s Licenses and IDPs Discounts: Student, Senior, Media & Hostel Health and Travel Insurance Important Documents Earthquake Safety

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Travel Tips

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Ten Tips for the Traveler Abroad 22 Language: If You Can Read It, You Can Say It 24 Table of Contents:

Greece: Instructions for Use 30 Greece: Instructions for Use All text, photos, and illustrations © 2009 Illustrata Press Planning Your Adventure — Last Update: 17:2 9-Apr-09

GREECE: Instructions for Use

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Planning Your Adventure

WHEN SHOULD WE GO?

ecisions, Decisions.

Before answering this question, first define the trip you have in mind. Do you love the road less traveled? Is seeing the Acropolis in Athens an absolute must? Want to be a Greek island hopper this summer? Once you have a clear idea of your dream vacation, the following will help you decide when to go: • June to September is the hottest, most crowded period, when airline prices are highest, lines are longest, beaches are full, and heat and humidity can make it difficult to enjoy sightseeing. All of Europe goes on vacation in August, and motorways and ferries fill to the brim with sun seekers escaping to villages and island resorts. Make sure your room has AC and/or consider a location near the sea, forested mountains or a swimming pool to minimize the effects of sizzling summer temperatures. • The party is at its peak in July and August. Everyone on break from university and families with school-aged children descend on Greece in the most popular and

most expensive summer months to revel in lively masses. Forget about peace and quiet, unless lesser-known destinations are on the itinerary, and book at least 3-6 months in advance. • Famous tourist centers are never empty, only less full. Athens, Mykonos, Santorini, and Crete are beautiful places, and package tours, cruise ships, honeymooners and study abroad programs all know that. Big cities are only peaceful from mid to late August, as are most islands from November to March, because many establishments close. • Budget travel is at its best from November until the week before Easter. The sun sets earlier and weather is not unpleasant, so if you’re willing to forego flip flops and keep a jacket handy, it is truly a wonderful time of year to travel, especially for those looking to get rich on culture. Service is better, crowds are fewer, and prices for accommodation are significantly lower. • Airfare is lowest (excluding Christmas) from November 1 to March 31. Fares jump just before Easter in April or May, and peak in July and August aside from the occasional promotion. You may need to be patient and pounce to get that last-minute bargain.

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• May is marvelous and October a close second. Not too hot, not too cold, not too crowded, airfares are moderate, and everything is open. Red poppies and wildflowers bloom in May, and roasted chestnuts, fresh-pressed olive oil, and the new clubbing season mark the autumnal transition in October and November. • Orthodox Easter in Greece is bigger than Christmas. Christmas and New Year’s in Greece is a lot like home except on a smaller scale because Orthodox Easter in April or May (movable feast) is much more important. However, if you’re looking for something different during the holidays, Oia, the Acropolis or snow at one of 20 ski centers around Greece make a nice backdrop.

WHERE SHOULD WE GO? Greece is a country you’ve always wanted to visit – the ancient sites, the mythology, the rich history, the seemingly endless beaches on beautiful islands. With so much to see in so little time, how do you choose? To help you decide, take a look at a host of online resources and

guidebooks (see Appendix of Greece: Instructions for Use) that provide descriptions and photos of different regions and islands of Greece to see what interests you. You could also consult forums, but the drawback is recommendations/ opinions come from strangers who may not have the same travel style, taste and desires as you; you may have a good experience, even if theirs was bad. Be responsible for your own choices, after all it’s your vacation. What is far more important than the where is the how. The how is the curiosity and thirst for discovery that creates unforgettable memories, funny anecdotes, and colorful stories wherever you go – that’s the secret to having a great time. It’s not really about the destination, so there’s no way you can make a mistake in deciding the where.

 WORTH NOTING: Sometimes it’s best to minimize expectations by investigating less and not gathering too many opinions about a destination. A little mystery and surprise are wonderful elements of a journey.

Gay/Lesbian Travelers Greece is a traditional country at its core and does not recognize same-sex unions or embrace homosexuality, so it is best to be discreet as locals are, even if there is no outward Page 4

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Going Solo

hatred or discrimination. There are a fair number of establishments on the mainland and islands catering to gay, lesbian and transsexual travelers, which can be found online or in niche guides. See the Appendix of Greece: Instructions for Use for resources.

Traveling alone has its rewards, and a little common sense will keep you safe:

Disabled Travelers Wheelchairs and strollers often opt for the street instead of sharing space with pedestrians, where sidewalks are uneven and choked with a number of obstacles such as parked cars, garbage, street vendors, and the furniture of outdoor cafés. Ramps, elevators and proper curbs are rare finds. Terrain can also be hilly, rocky and vulnerable to weather conditions. Public buses and trains will happily accommodate anyone who calls in advance, and the metro and tram in Athens are accessible, though most simplify travel by hiring a private taxi.

PROSOXI: Elevators and special access lifts located at some archaeological sites, ferries and public transport stations are strict about enforcing the law and will deny access to anyone without a disabled permit, even to those clearly in need.

»» Try not to look like a traveler. Unwanted attention is minimized if you walk like you know where you’re going, learn a few words of Greek, consult your map in private whenever possible, and look less like a tourist, i.e., no floppy hat, overly casual dress, camera around the neck, and bags hanging everywhere. »» Be aware of your bag. With no one to watch your bag while getting something to eat, taking an overnight ferry or using the facilities, many believe being alone is a disadvantage. Actually, it’s easy to take them with you if you choose the right bags or keep an eye, hand, leg or lock on them to discourage potential trouble. »» Trust your instinct. Many countries consider instinct to be a sixth sense or third eye, and it serves to get in tune with it. Some think this is difficult when removed from your normal environment, when in fact it can be just the opposite – there’s a distinct difference between the unfamiliar and right and wrong. If you feel something is slightly off or too good to be true, it usually is.

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»» Ignore the call of the kamaki. Women are subject to Greek kamaki (harpoons) who compete to meet foreign women. Most are harmless and will go away if you pay no attention or surprise them by speaking Greek. »» Choose to be alone…or not. Traveling solo means you have a lot of freedom. Whether you’re a man or a woman, it also means you’re more likely to be approached by strangers to buy something, go somewhere, or just because they like you. The majority of fellow travelers and local residents are genuinely friendly, good people; it’s only a few who pretend to have a cousin from your homeland, lead you to bar scams or serve drink “bombs.” Don’t be afraid to get up and leave and/or call the Tourist Police at ‘171’ from any phone. Solid, irrefutable information can be hard to come by in Greece. Asking residents is no problem, but they may not speak English or will fabricate answers instead of saying, “I don’t know,” when they truly don’t know. Wandering, occasional dead-ends, and unannounced closings are inevitable and accepting this can lessen frustration and stress. Gather as much information as you can, keep it handy, have a plan B, remember to be patient with yourself, and go with the flow. It’s all part of this wonderful journey.

Going with Companions To maintain a happy balance amongst fellow travelers: • Be honest about whims and wants. It’s important for each person to voice what (s)he wants to do and see, or the vacation is off on the wrong foot and likely to stay that way. One person doesn’t want to miss Delphi, someone else wants to lay on the beach all day, another wants to “go with the wind” – all of this can work. Create an itinerary that incorporates everyone’s desires. • Honor different travel styles. Some people love history and museums, others loathe them; some like to sleep late and party later, others are early risers and seize the day. There’s nothing written in stone that says you must flock like sheep. It’s OK to go separate ways for the day or arrive at a site together, but wander on your own to take photographs and agree to meet later. • Cut the designated translator/leader/driver some slack. If someone in the group agrees willingly or unwillingly to take the lead on language or navigating, be sympathetic to the personal sacrifice, additional responsibility and pressure (s)he is under to make sure everyone else’s vacation is easier. Otherwise, be prepared to take their place.

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Traveling with companions is a macrocosm in a microcosm. Spending continuous periods with anyone in a confined space can reach a boiling point in of itself. Now add everything in the world known to cause stress – decisions about money, making compromises, negotiating unfamiliar territory and all in a foreign language. Traveling is a lot like a year of marriage compressed into a few weeks. It’s essential to have a sense of humor and be flexible, considerate, and respectful as the group’s happiness depends on your happiness and vice versa. Remember that everyone’s goal is the same: To have a good time!

 WORTH NOTING: Whether you’re alone or with a group, make a point to smile and greet someone in Greek, even if it’s something as small as, “Geia sas.” People appreciate the effort and gesture.

WHERE SHOULD I STAY? Accommodation ratings were once lettered A-E and Lux, but now use the more universally recognized stars. However, one must look beyond stars in choosing a hotel or room since the number of stars signifies the number of rooms, facilities and amenities on offer, and the price it can charge; it’s not necessarily an indication of quality. A one-star family-run hotel with friendly service, gorgeous views of the sea, and free

Internet access may actually be more pleasant than a four-star 50-room resort with three swimming pools, hair dryer, mini bar, and overworked staff. If you consult well-known travel guides, forums, and Web sites, take note that millions of other travelers are looking at the same listings and recommendations, and many of these places have lost their charm from being overrun with a revolving door of tourists. Advice from a trusted travel agent is fine if they have first-hand knowledge and have your interests at heart. A reliable referral and honest description are good ways to choose lodgings, although taking a chance on lesser known Web sites and accommodation can be incredibly rewarding as newer options spring up all the time and are just as wonderful or better. Many travelers show up without a reservation and do well, though this is not recommended for anyone arriving late evening or for trips planned in July and August. There are a number of alternatives to a hotel or ksenodoxeio, such as a domatio, pension, and diamerisma.

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Once upon a time, these terms were indicative of a specific type of lodging, but time and marriages between cultures have resulted in more crossover than separation; this is one reason the rating system is not a reliable predictor of quality and service. In general, however, lodging can be divided into these categories: Resort – All inclusive, usually exclusive, luxurious and expensive with a spa, restaurant and every amenity and service without leaving the premises. Reserve well in advance, with a major credit card. Hotel (Ksenodoxeio) — Rooms, with or without breakfast included, a variable cancellation policy based on the number of rooms in the hotel and whims of the owner, likely guaranteed with a credit card. Traditional Settlements – Basic to luxurious “bed and breakfast” accommodation in historical mansions, farmhouses, stone fortresses, and village homes of unique architecture located in picturesque rural areas. Tourism is sustainable and hospitality unmatched. Book online or through a travel agent. Learn more at www.agrotravel.gr Apartments (diamerisma) and villas — Self-catering, private lodgings that vary from a studio to several bedrooms and include a kitchen or kitchenette, often with a minimum stay

and must be guaranteed with a credit card through a travel agent, online or package tour. No stars, just descriptions. Pension — Ranging from apartment with no kitchenette to a room in a boarding house, normally family owned and offering no breakfast, there are only classifications of one to three stars. Domatia (Rooms) – Rooms in private homes, which can be found on demand through Tourist Police or by looking for signs bearing the EOT (Greek Tourist Organization) seal. Expect to pay cash. Ski Chalets and Mountain Refuges – Simple inexpensive sleeping huts with outhouses, moderately priced modern lodging or club-run chalets are available for skiing, mountaineering or escaping. See www.visitgreece.gr for locations, descriptions and contact information. Camping – Pitch a tent, park your caravan or choose a bungalow at one of 340 campsites on mainland Greece or the Greek islands certified by the EOT. Check the official site at www.panhellenic-camping-union.gr Youth Hostels – Bunk-style, dorm room sleeping accommodations, in which visitors bring their own linen and share bathrooms and showers. Bookings can be made online, though there are less than a dozen official International Youth Hostel Federation (IYHF) hostels in four cities.

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PROSOXI: Web sites boasting an extensive list of hostels have essentially collected a plethora of inexpensive hotels and pensions to attract backpackers and collect a portion of proceeds. They are not officially associated with IYHF and do not guarantee the quality of a hostel or offer membership discounts.

 WORTH NOTING: The Greek Youth Hostel Association keeps a list of non-membership lodging billed as hostels. No Web site was available at the time of print, but those interested can contact: [email protected].

»» Any business without credit card authorization facilities is only entitled to ask for 25 percent deposit of your stay’s total cost by wire or cash transfer The Hellenic Chamber of Hotels (www.grhotels.gr) publishes these useful notes for guests: »» A surcharge of 10 percent may be assessed on any stay of 2 days or less »» One person staying in a double room shall be charged 80 percent of a night’s stay, but not less than a single room rate »» Anyone occupying a room for half a day shall pay 50 percent the normal room rate

Pricing and Rights

»» The charge for a two-bed room should be equal to a double room

The European Consumer Centre provides these guidelines:

»» A third bed in a double room or a second bed in a single room at the guest’s request will incur a 20 percent increase in room rate

»» Travel agents are obliged to provide a full written description of a hotel »» Upon confirmation of your booking, the hotelier is obliged to provide the reserved room or an equivalent of the same class and amenities, including transportation to the hotel at his cost (failure to do so is grounds for sanctions and a demotion in star rating) »» A full refund shall be returned for anyone canceling a reservation 21 days in advance

»» Rate cards must be displayed in each room of any EOTapproved lodging Guests encountering any deviation from these rules can opt to not book with the lodging in question or fill out a complaint form at www.visitgreece.gr. The chapter Tourist Information in Greece: Instructions for Use has more information and reminders when you’re finally on the road.

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About Hotels Along with general categories and numbers of stars, keep these things in mind when researching lodging: »» Buildings are older, rooms are smaller, and bathrooms sometimes claustrophobic. Historic town centers date back centuries, when wars forced people into cities, housing was built quickly, and rooms were smaller…or bigger, but now divided. Greek hotels have been created out of buildings that were historically something else; and the ensuite bath has been improvised to fit a space that never had room for such a thing, which is why some hotels have a community bathroom/WC down the hall. Some showers are square trays with a handheld showerhead and no curtain, in close proximity to the toilet, and leave a river of water on the floor. »» Large hotel rooms come with an equally large price. Prepare to pay handsomely or choose instead to stay outside the historic

center, where hotels are newer and often quieter. If getting back on the train or bus to look for a room in the next town doesn’t appeal to you, a little flexibility will go a long way. »» Never fear that a sub-three star won’t be welcoming and pristine. Greek households are meticulous, so if rooms are in short supply and your heart is set on a night in Monemvasia, don’t be afraid to book that available two-star. »» When rooms are scarce, consider large-capacity hotels. Many recommended hotels throughout Greece only have 8, 12, or 20 rooms. If you waited to book and find few vacancies, start concentrating on bigger hotels.

 WORTH NOTING: The lobby or isogeio is the ground floor, and the protos is the first floor (what many call the second floor). »» Forego the view or convenient central location to get peace and quiet. A view of the plateia (main square) is fun for people watching, but it may be loud all night, just as a view of the sea can be enchanting, but have a seafront road filled with revving engines and pulsing music until morning. Closing the window will be of little use if the building is not soundproof. Specify your preference in the e-mail or fax when making a reservation, and don’t be afraid to request a room change if reception has misled you.)

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MODES OF TRAVEL

overnight bag at most and avoid packing and hauling everything you brought.

Two Approaches

For example, if you choose 10 days in Nafplio, you'll have the possibility to explore the charming town, castle and beach, plus day trip to the ancient sites of Mykines and Epidavros, and the island of Spetses. In every region throughout Greece, there are endless options that will both allow you to settle in and become a bit more familiar with your own surroundings, without sacrificing experience or number of locations covered.

You have 10 days to a month, and you want to see as much as possible. How can this be accomplished? There are two fundamental approaches to traveling: point-to-point, or picking a home base and doing day trips. Traveling point-to-point means a logical itinerary of places is created, allowing one or more days in each location, with stops in intermediate towns to look around and have lunch before reaching a final destination. The advantage is that a lot of territory can be covered in a short time.

Assess your energy level, travel style, packing tolerance and how you’d like to spend your vacation, and method that is right for you will become clear.

Cost vs. Time, Convenience and Comfort

The disadvantage is your digital camera may need to remind you of what you saw (or didn’t), and you’ll spend a lot of time in transit: getting up early, packing, checking out, getting to the car/train/plane/ferry, waiting, traveling, arriving, locating the hotel, checking in, unpacking, and reorienting. A day or two later, you do it all over again. If you’re an energetic, nonstop type person, this approach may be fine.

Whether you’re a budget traveler or have an unlimited budget, there’s no harm in being informed about options concerning cost, convenience and comfort, as it will minimize frustration and assist in making choices right for you. Most travelers also don’t mind saving money, as long as experience and quality are not sacrificed.

In lieu of moving every few days, the home base, day-trip approach involves choosing one to three strategically positioned locales that allow a variety of day trips, or overnights in nearby towns or islands. For these trips, you’ll carry an

For example, should you rent/hire a car? Is it better to fly or ferry? Is it better to take the train or bus? Are private tour guides worth the money? Here are some of the considerations to weigh in making decisions about time, cost, and convenience:

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• Stay outside tourist centers to save on high-priced hotels. Many guidebooks and Web sites list alternatives to Athens, Mykonos and Santorini, which are hands-down expensive and crowded. It’s feasible to stay nearby and visit them easily, while enjoying lower lodging rates, better quality accommodation, and the opportunity to explore the surrounding area. • A rental may be required when staying outside popular cities or traveling point-to-point. Having a car or scooter gives you the freedom to come and go as you please and, unlike staying in town, you won’t pay for parking. It can be a cost-effective and convenient option if exploring the countryside (i.e. Peloponnese) or a big island such as Crete or Rhodes, and/or traveling with young children. • Cars are burdensome in cities.

to use in-town public transport and visit surrounding towns using intercity and long-distance KTEL buses. Specific information about ticketing, reservations, and what to expect on board is found in Getting Around in Town and Getting Around by Land, Sea and Air of Greece: Instructions for Use.

 WORTH NOTING: Cars with automatic transmission are scarce and can increase the rental price significantly. You can learn to use a manual transmission in as little as a few hours from kind soul willing to show you the ropes and lend their car. • Use taxis for convenience, but stick to public transit for every day. If you’ve just flown 12 hours, are particularly tired, or if it’s hot, cold or late, spring for the taxi; however, using public transportation is convenient, easy on the pocketbook, often quicker, and make you feel less like a tourist. It’s also the only solution if taxis are on strike and renting a vehicle isn’t possible at the last minute. • Tour guide or self guide?

If staying in larger cities such as Thessaloniki, Athens or Irakleio, you’ll be sitting in traffic when driving and paying for parking and car rental anytime you’re not. It’s advisable

Finding the right guide or tour can enrich and illuminate what you’re seeing, not to mention help you bypass long lines. But going your own way can be equally rewarding – linger when

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you like, fast forward through the uninteresting, take photos at leisure, and let the spirit of a place speak to you.

simply because destinations are limited. But at least you have the information necessary to make an informed decision.

• Evaluate the value of niche packages.

 WORTH NOTING: Buses depart several times a day

Taking a cruise or package tour may offer value for money, simplify transport arrangements, and save you from researching specific desires. In exchange for this convenience, you often travel at a harried pace to the most touristy areas, give up freedom and flexibility, and seldom experience the soul of Greece. Weigh the pros and cons with your priorities.

to numerous locations and offer a round-trip discount, making them convenient and cost effective. See Greece: Instructions for Use for specific information on purchasing individual tickets, making a reservation, and what to expect on board.

FLY OR FERRY?

RAIL PASS, or POINT-to-POINT? The cost of a train ticket varies widely depending on the type of train and length of voyage; a day’s cost of a rail pass does not. For most trains, a reservation is suggested and a supplement increases the cost of the rail pass. There are discounts of 20 percent on return (round trip) tickets; 25 percent on 2nd class for those under 26; and 30 percent on groups of 6 booking at the same time. To determine if a rail pass is more economical, divide the total rail pass cost by the number days you’ll be traveling, then compare corresponding fares on the routes you plan to take at www.ose.gr Rail passes to travel multiple countries is a good idea, however they are rarely cost effective for travel only within Greece,

Many favor ferries in summer because departures are more frequent and spontaneity is welcome, if time is not an issue. However, with the affordability/convenience of low-cost flights, many now consider planes an option. In summer, a number of airlines step up schedules and offer excellent fares with direct flights from European cities to Greek islands, which is in addition to flights within Greece. Advance planning and flexibility are key to getting the lowest fare, not spontaneity; however, the time saved is significant. To decide whether to fly or ferry, it comes down to cost, convenience, and the type of vacation you have in mind. i.e., On the same date, an Athens-Rhodes airfare goes as low as €51.39 including taxes and takes 1 hour, so you’ll spend

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less time in transit and more time exploring. An Economy ticket on a ferry costs €53.00 and takes 13 hours, but if you don’t mind being a bit uncomfortable and waiting to shower until afternoon check-in at your next hotel, you’ve just saved money on one night’s accommodation by choosing a ferry! See Getting Around by Sea and Air, and the Appendix in Greece: Instructions for Use for details and links about Greek island hopping, ferries, and airline companies.

PROSOXI: Deck class is fine for most people in summer, but may be nothing more than a bench in a small, common room with fluorescent lighting in winter.

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LUGGAGE and WARDROBE

When traveling domestically, you pack your luggage, stash it in the car or shuttle, and go straight to your destination or the airport. The furthest you transport your bags is from the trunk to the ticket counter, curbside check-in or hotel entrance, so the amount you bring is not a concern. Things are different when traveling abroad, especially if you’re not part of the jet set.

WHAT TO PACK Wardrobe Tips It’s quite easy to pack an efficient, comfortable wardrobe — it’s often the non-wardrobe items that use the most space and add the most weight. Follow these guidelines to assure you’ll have plenty to wear while still adhering to luggage restrictions:

tent, there’s no need to pack for a longer period when you choose the right items. »» Choose two pairs of shoes. It’s important to think about your feet and how much work they’ll be doing in Greece — touring museums, climbing stairs, traversing archaeological sites, exploring island beaches, walking to hotels and bus stations — and almost always on marble, stone, concrete, and dirt roads. Choose shoes with good traction and arch/foot support (tennis shoes are not recommended), and make sure they’re broken in or you’ll be sorry. Many brands offer stylish, comfortable, and appropriate options that suit attire for day or evening. For your second pair, choose something dressier or sturdier, or consider a pair of flip flops for the shower if staying in hostels. »» Opt for travel-friendly fabrics. Simplify your life by minimizing or omitting clothing that need ironing. This will free up valuable luggage space and eliminate any concern about the hotel having an iron available.

»» Pack for one week. You’ll be able to wear some items of clothing more than once and have ample opportunity to do laundry if you’re staying longer. Socks and underwear can be washed and dried overnight. Even if the weather is inconsisPage 15

 WORTH NOTING: Cotton polyester or cotton with a bit of spandex keeps you cool in summer, while keeping wrinkles at bay and your feet from chafing. It also dries faster should you be hand washing.

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»» Choose a color palette. Instead of outfits, choose pieces that coordinate with several items. One technique is to put everything on the bed, then remove all but two coordinating colors and the neutrals. You’ll look less touristy and never be stuck with mismatched clean pieces. »» Layer in unpredictable weather. Depending on the location, it can be warm by day and chilly by night. If you’re doing any active sightseeing, it will be toasty in tavernas and cool inside churches and museums. Include both underwear (camisoles, tanks, tees, and turtleneck) and outerwear (cardigan, pullover, or jacket) that can be layered or removed as needed.

size bandages, gauze, small roll of medical tape, towelettes; a roll of Tums, motion sickness medicine, and a sleeping aid (if desired); convenience packs of headache, cold medicine, and Imodium. Some kits come pre-made with the option to attach to your belt, which is perfect for sightseeing or hiking; some can be made using a cosmetic purse or plastic bag.

 WORTH NOTING: Silk underwear is weightless, but incredibly warm and can double as pajamas in winter. Zip turtlenecks are handy to ventilate or insulate on demand. Toiletries It’s easy to purchase toiletries or anything else you need in Greece if you don’t wish to bring them, but the brand you like may be unavailable and items more expensive. With an average of 300 days sunshine per year, sunscreen in the correct SPF and a good pair of sunglasses are musts no matter what the season in Greece. A mini first aid kit is also handy, even if it only has bare essentials, such as different Page 16

Ziploc bags are also handy. They keep cotton swabs clean and save clothes from leaky liquids (hairspray, gel, shampoo, etc.), contact lens cases, and toothpaste; plus, they’re collapsible, which means more space opens up in your bag as supplies dwindle.

 WORTH NOTING: Consider carrying a shampoo bar in its own case. It can double as soap, dry on the road, and is an environmentally friendly option that won’t explode in your luggage.

PROSOXI: There is no shortage of modern toilets, though carrying a small stash of toilet paper or a pocket pack of

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facial tissues is still a good idea when stalls are clean out or there’s a squat toilet behind door number one. Travel size everything is great, especially if you refill them and use them again, or buy your own bottles and fill them whenever and with whatever you want. If you’re traveling as a couple or in a group, only one first aid kit and one set of toiletries is necessary – a considerable space and weight saver. The tricky part is deciding who will carry them.

HOW TO PACK Luggage Considerations Maneuvering on your own is easily done by following a few guidelines: »» Quality matters. Cheap bags often fray and fall apart during or after a few trips, and the wheels crack, wobble, and hiccup. Consider investing in quality rip-stop, armor-coated material and look for details such as a comfortable handle, wide wheel base, compartments. »» Can’t lift it? Don’t take it. Taking a few smaller bags instead of a larger one is preferable. Locating airport porters is no problem, however there are rarely any porters at train stations, and hotels won’t have them unless staying somewhere luxurious. Hauling suitcases on and off trains and up and down aisles is time con-

suming and draws unnecessary attention and the scorn of people you’re holding up. Even taking a taxi won’t guarantee door-to-door service. »» Another consideration is stairs. Many accommodation have stairs and no elevators; there are stairs in train and metro stations; stairs for tunnels and crossovers; marble stairs in historic centers; stairs leading to hotels and villas with views of the city or island; stairs in pedestrian only areas; stairs on ferries and buses. Limit the size, weight, and number of bags. You’ll be happier and thankful. »» Thicker not wider. Bags should be no wider than the aisle of an airplane, whether or not you plan to carry them on. Allot each person a main 22-inch bag, with a zipper for expansion that will add space for gifts and souvenirs upon return. Then include a versatile smaller bag that can either be slung over the shoulder for overnight stays (or contain a laptop) and/or piggyback on the larger one. Many companies make bags that fit together nicely especially for this purpose; some duffle bags even have a smaller counterpart that zips on/off. »» Organize and compress. Sporting good stuff sacks are convenient for condensing socks and underwear, thus saving space,

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keeping items organized, and making it easier to locate what you want. Packing bags that press out all the air are also useful for compacting clothes without wrinkling them, separating dirty items, and giving you the option to transport wet laundry, swimwear or towels if they weren’t dry upon departure. »» Rolling right along. Bags that can be lifted and rolled give you the option to not pay for a luggage cart or porter, save you from extended periods of lifting, and are much easier to drag than carry when walking to your hotel or running for a plane, train, or bus.

the majority of airlines allowed one carry-on bag and one personal item; if taking a laptop, it needs to be inside one of these. To save on fuel costs, many airlines have halved weight allowances for checked bags, except for special members of frequent flyer programs. It’s best to confirm restrictions just before departure to ensure you have the most current information.

PROSOXI: Putting anything of monetary or sentimental value in checked luggage is a risk, especially if you have a connecting flight. A shrink-wrapped or locked bag may not stay that way, and there is no guarantee that anyone who discovers precious item during security scans will leave them there.

PROSOXI: If you have a common black bag, consider personalizing it with a colorful ribbon or luggage tag to prevent someone else from mistakenly taking your bag. It happens a lot more than you think.

 WORTH NOTING: Use the facilities after checking in your bags or before picking them up to allow yourself more freedom. If you choose the right bags, you can easily take them with you anytime, even into a stall. Packing for the Airlines Airline luggage restrictions can change at a moment’s notice for both checked and carry-on luggage. At the time of this writing,

MONEY MATTERS The Euro replaced the Greek drachma as legal tender on January 1, 2002, but cash is still king in Greece (see, Money in Greece: Instructions for Use for more details). Use the ATM to obtain cash and likewise pay in cash for almost everything. The ATM is open 24/7, offers the best rate of exchange in comparison to other options, and speaks English. They’re also common throughout Greece, located in airports, train stations, main squares, and everywhere there’s a bank.

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Consider bringing two cards that will work in a cash machine. It would be prudent to bring a check/debit card that can be used both in ATM/cash machines and as a charge card, then have an ATM card exclusively for cash machines to be used as a backup if the main card is lost or stolen.

»» Verify bank fees for international ATM withdrawals. Many banks assess not only a per transaction fee for using a nonbranch ATM, but also an international fee. Some also charge 1% of the withdrawal amount for foreign currency; discuss all fees and account options with your bank.

Keep your main card in your wallet or money belt and store your backup card in a separate location. Credit cards also work in ATM/cash machines with a PIN, however they normally carry interest charges in addition to transaction and exchange fees, which should be researched in advance to avoid being surprised when the statement arrives.

»» Inquire and/or raise your daily cash withdrawal limit. In the event you need a large amount of cash in one day, make sure the bank will allow the amount you have in mind.

Some additional suggestions: »» Inform your bank that you’ll be traveling. Banks and credit card companies often put a temporary hold on transactions that deviate from your normal pattern of use for security reasons, until you call to remove it. This can be inconvenient when in transit and time zones are involved, so have your account noted in advance.

»» Purchasing Euro currency in advance is unnecessary. Use the ATM upon arrival at the airport or train station. The exception might be if you feel your home currency is losing ground against the euro, and you want to stock up in advance. »» Write down non-toll-free phone numbers for all of your cards. Toll-free numbers will not be accessible or free of charge from Greece. Credit and ATM/debit cards often provide toll-free and collect call numbers on the back of their cards. Copy these numbers and keep the information in a separate place (see Copy Important Documents below). Instructions for calling collect to banks can be found in the Keeping in Touch chapter of Greece: Instructions for Use. »» Don’t count on traveler’s checks. Once a staple and a reliable currency substitute, traveler’s checks have become

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more difficult and inconvenient to exchange in most locations and are not widely accepted.

PROSOXI: Using a travel agent and a credit card to book plane tickets gives travelers added consumer power to complain or file a dispute should something go wrong. »» Keep valuables in a lightweight money belt for the neck or waist. Passports, airline tickets, currency and spare credit/ debit cards, along with a copy of critical phone and credit card numbers are safer and more secure when stored close to your body at all times or at least while in transit. For a more detailed discussion on safety and warnings concerning pickpockets, see “Avoiding Trouble” in the Money chapter of Greece: Instructions for Use.

CELL PHONES: Roam, rent or recharge? Anyone going abroad who wishes to maintain contact with those at home and have the option to call locally in Greece often wonders if it’s worth the trouble to bring a cell phone. And if so, is it better to rent a phone, roam internationally, or use a local solution? To make an informed choice, have no fear and read on.

Will My Cell Phone Work? There are two questions that must be answered: Do you have a phone that will work in Greece? And if so, what service provider should you use? For a cell phone to function in Greece (and Europe), it must: • work on a GSM network – If there is a SIM card, it’s GSM; • operate on a European frequency of 900 or 1800. Service providers use one of two types of networks: GSM and CDMA. Greek cell networks are GSM, so a phone that functions on a GSM network is necessary. You can check whether your phone has a removable SIM card, usually under the battery; or you can ask for assistance from your service provider if you are unsure. If there is no SIM card, then your phone is not GSM, and it will not work in Greece or any other European country. Skip to, “I Have the Wrong Kind of Cell Phone.” Next, cell phones used in Europe operate on a frequency of 900 or 1800. So whatever phone you bring must be a dual, tri, or quad-band phone that includes one of these frequencies. Verify that your existing phone has the right band by looking in the instruction manual or go online and find

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answers at the manufacturer’s Web site if you’ve lost or misplaced it. My Cell Phone Qualifies. Now What? If your phone operates on a GSM 900 or 1800 band, it will work fine in Greece. Now you need to choose a service provider. Your options are: • Use your current service provider. Activate international roaming before leaving home, and pay approximately 2€ per minute for both making and receiving calls in Greece. • Use a Greek service provider. Purchase a connection pack in Greece for 5€, and pay .15 to .20 euro cents per minute for domestic calls; international calls for 1€ or more per minute. Pay nothing for incoming calls.

mately 2€ per minute for both incoming and outgoing calls, unless your provider cooperates with a Greek network and offers a discounted rate. Check with your cellular service provider for exact charges and international plans. The second option: Purchase a prepaid SIM card with a local number from a Greek service provider to swap in and use in your phone. When using a Greek SIM card, the language on your phone menu will be English, you can send and receive SMS (text messages) in English, and the language for voicemail can be switched to English, although promotional SMS from the service provider may be in Greek. It is straightforward and does not affect the information stored on your phone. See the Keeping in Touch chapter for more information and Appendix of Greece: Instructions for Use for links that can show you how to swap in/out a SIM card, rates for each provider, and other prepaid calling card options.

The first option: Leave your existing SIM card in place, and use your provider to connect with Greek cell networks. Roaming charges make this an expensive option, as a common call rate is approxiPage 21

PROSOXI: If you have a 3G connection with your provider back home and would like to use it in Greece, it may or may not work depending on the limitations of your plan, software and the phone settings. There are no prepaid plans for non-residents.

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OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

I Have The Wrong Kind of Cell Phone Whether or not this is one of many trips to Europe, it can be less expensive to purchase a compatible dual/tri/quad band cell phone than to rent one. You can then purchase a Greek prepaid SIM and add credit or “recharge” as needed.

PROSOXI: Many service providers lock cell phones to insure they are used solely with SIM cards they issue. Therefore, you must unlock your cell phone before it will work with a different SIM (Greek or otherwise). Your cell phone provider will usually grant you the unlock code for free if you ask; there are also fee-based unlock services if they don’t. Renting a phone starts at €75, and this does not include the cost of calls and deposit. It won’t contain your phone numbers, so you’ll need to bring them all with you; and renting on the spot won’t allow you the time and opportunity to familiarize yourself with the brand and model of phone in advance. If you’re looking for a cell for this trip only, it will up to you whether to rent, buy, or go cell-free.

Electricity Electric current in Greece (and Europe) is 220v. Common portable devices such as laptops, cell phone chargers, and digital cameras are already dual voltage (110v and 220v) for use in worldwide locations. Travel appliances such as hair dryers, shavers and styling tools offer the dual voltage option if you’re interested. Review the power information on the label, power adapter or instruction manual for your device or appliance. If the capacity is 110-120v, you’ll need a voltage converter; if it reads 120 - 220v, you only need an inexpensive plug adapter with two small, round pins at the end. Both plug adapters and voltage converters can be found online, at travel stores and electrical stores in Greece and at home. If you plan to take your laptop, take a look at the Keeping in Touch chapter of Greece: Instructions for Use to make sure you have the right modem and cable, and whether purchasing a wi-fi subscription is right for you.

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Do I Need a Visa for Greece?

Driver’s License and International Driver’s Permit

All EU citizens have the right to free movement within the EU without a visa, and many non-EU citizens of the world enjoy visa-free travel to Greece for a maximum of 90 days within any 180-day period, including Australians, Canadians, and Americans. Travel visas and entry to Greece depend only on the passport you hold.

Renting a car in Greece requires you be 21 and holder of a full auto driver’s license for 1 year. Renting a scooter, motorcycle or ATV requires you be 18 and holder of a full license for 1 year up to 50cc, and a motorcycle class license for anything over 50cc. Anything less is technically illegal.

Check with the Greek Consulate or Embassy in your homeland to inquire if your country enjoys visa-free travel or if you need to submit an application, pay a fee, and have a sticker placed in your passport. Be aware that Greece can ask non-EU travelers to submit proof of financial support for the duration of a trip, either before a visa is issued or upon entry to Greece.

EU citizens can use their licenses from home. All non-EU citizens need both an unexpired license and an International Driver’s Permit (IDP), which is essentially a translation of your license that can be obtained at an AAA office in the USA and Canada or online at www.csaa.com. Citizens of other non-EU countries should inquire with the appropriate authority. Not having the proper license (and IDP) can result in fines and detainment by police.

Apply for the correct visa well in advance of departure to allow ample time for processing; waiting until the last minute is not recommended.

PROSOXI: Some rental agencies bend the rules, allowing irresponsible drivers on the road, often without helmets, to cause accidents or be victims of them. This is one of many reasons the accident rate remains high in Greece.

PROSOXI: All non-EU citizens are only permitted to work in Greece and the EU with an official work permit; a visa is not enough. Fines, deportation and being blacklisted by Greece and the entire Schengen zone for up to 5 years are possible penalties.

If you plan to drive and/or rent a vehicle in Greece, do check your current auto insurance policy to see if coverage extends abroad, so you can make an informed decision about pur-

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chasing local coverage. By law, fire coverage and third party liability is required. See Getting Around by Car in Greece: Instructions for Use for details on road signs, motorways, and rules of the road.

Student and Senior IDs, Hostel Membership Cards, and Press Passes Free admission to archaeological sites and museums is granted to: »» - Media with an official press pass, »» - Archaeologists and archaeology students, »» - People under 19, »» - Military and students in the EU Be sure to apply in advance of your trip and bring the appropriate ID card or press pass. Reduced rates apply to students in non-EU countries, and EU citizens over 65.

PROSOXI: There are fewer than a dozen official IYHF youth hostels in Greece, most with no membership discounts. Paying for a card would only be cost effective in cases of extended stay or if traveling Greece in combination with other countries. To decide whether to become a member, visit www.hihostelling.com and weigh rates for your country/age vs. where and when you may need a card.

Health and Travel Insurance No vaccinations are required for Greece. EU citizens have the right to emergency medical care upon presentation of a passport and a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) for stays less than 6 months. However, it does not cover non-emergency care. For non-EU citizens, it is necessary to check existing health and homeowners’ insurance policies, in addition to credit cards, and inquire about specific coverage for robbery, health, and other emergencies. If you have had recent surgery or treatment of a major illness, travel insurance coverage may not be available to you. Many opt to purchase a comprehensive travel insurance policy, which not only entitles them to medical care at any private hospital or clinic (that speak English) on the mainland or islands for any reason, but also provides compensation for unforeseen events associated with travel, such as delays, lost luggage, theft, terrorism, natural disaster, trip interruption, and cancellation. Policies may also include emergency evacuation and repatriation for you, and/or a family member or friend to fly to Greece and accompany you home in the rare case of disability or unexpected death. Rates depend on the type of coverage, length of trip, age of traveler, pre-existing health conditions, and destination.

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PROSOXI: Some credit card companies require that

Important Document Records

forms and receipts be provided for lost items before assistance is provided, and even then only a small amount of money is advanced. Understand the extent of coverage and assistance before leaving home.

Create a file of photocopied or scanned passports, credit cards, driver’s licenses, toll-access numbers, prescriptions (generic name), travel insurance policies, itineraries, and other critical documents. Leave, send or e-mail copies to a friend or relative; take paper copies or a USB flash drive with you, and store them separately from the originals in the rare event of loss or robbery.

 WORTH NOTING: Planning to be abroad for an extended period? You may want to see a dentist before departure. Dental care in Greece can be excellent, but is often not covered by insurance and services must be paid in cash.

PROSOXI: Codeine is banned in Greece, and it is recommended that people with prescription medicine have clearly labeled bottles and certification from your doctor mentioning your name, the medication, and its necessity.

Travel insurance is affordable and highly recommended, if only for the peace of mind it affords.

PROSOXI: Some policies will not cover injuries/

Earthquake Safety

accidents caused by dangerous treks and operating a two-wheeled vehicle. Find a policy suitable for your trip’s activities.

Earthquakes are commonplace in Greece, as the country is situated on tectonic plates that shake, rattle, and roll. There is no need for alarm, as long as you understand what to do. The majority of injuries and deaths occur when people panic, run out of buildings (wrong), or live/work/stay in an ill-built structure. Since all accommodation is built to code, the primary thing you need to remember is, “duck and cover.”

 WORTH NOTING: Buying travel insurance direct from the source and not a broker eliminates the middleman and ensures quicker and more efficient service. See the Tourist Information, Shopping and Appendix of Greece: Instructions for Use for specific information about emergency care, pharmacies, and useful phone numbers.

See the Appendix of Greece: Instructions for Use and take a minute to review earthquake safety.

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Air Travel Tips Given the current security precautions in place, it’s important to allow yourself enough time for check-in, passport control, opening bags for the first security check, duty free shopping, a passenger check at the gate by your airline (usually another passport check and the completion of a passenger information/ emergency contact card), and a final security check before boarding. If you’re concerned about the time you have, find a representative for your airline and politely request assistance.

tion to getting a good night’s rest or affording a bit of peaceful/enjoyable separation from surroundings that can be noisier than at home. »» Sleep on the plane when traveling west to east. Use earplugs, a mask, or an over-the-counter sleep inducer if necessary, as there’s nothing like sleep to help convince your body it was a short night and thus shorten jet lag. Sleep on the flight, get out into the sunshine as soon as possible, and sleep the whole first night upon arrival. From east to west, it’s not as important to sleep, since the body interprets it as an extended day. »» Minimize food and alcohol intake en-route. It can be difficult to sleep while digesting a meal, and alcohol is dehydrating. Choose sleep and sobriety over food and booze when possible.

In the air, there are some important points to remember that will aid jet lag recovery: »» Drink water. Pressurized air is dehydrating, as are lack of sleep and alcohol, all of which can contribute to jet lag. The more water you drink, the more your body can counter the effects of air travel and lessen jet lag. »» Take a good pair of earplugs or iPod (seriously). Whether in a hotel room, plane, train or bus, they provide a simple soluPage 26

PROSOXI: Did you know that if the contents of your luggage are stolen but the bag is returned, it’s not considered lost luggage?

 WORTH NOTING: Bringing a few snacks can be helpful if you don’t like the airline food or are arriving at a time when it may be inconvenient or too disorienting to go out and find something.

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PROSOXI: There is no penalty for flying into one city (or country) and out of another via Open Jaws travel, which affords more flexibility when planning your itinerary and reducing time in transit. However, if these flights are with different airlines and weren’t booked with a travel agent,

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you may not be guaranteed assistance or accommodated should you miss a connecting flight and may be forced to purchase another (more expensive) ticket, in addition to losing money on the unused one.

GREECE: Instructions for Use

T

Planning Your Adventure

well, get back home. The whole point of being in a different country is to experience somewhere different. Let yourself go, and allow Greece to embrace you.

en Tips for the Traveler Abroad

2. Travel light Most travelers bring too much. By adopting a “less is more” approach, you’ll be happier when climbing stairs at a metro station, traversing various terrains to your hotel, or boarding a ferry. Focus on the essentials and leave the rest at home.

Ten Tips for the Traveler Abroad Traveling solo and living abroad for more than a decade has taught me through trial and error that there are things we can do to maximize pleasure and minimize pain. Now I pass them to you, in hopes these tips help you have an unforgettable time in Greece or any country. 1. Leave it all behind Easier said than done. It’s human nature to go somewhere new and keep applying sensibilities and expectations from back home because this is what we know and count on. But do yourself a favor, don’t. Instead of making comparisons and complaining about what’s dissimilar or “not right,” be OK with removing yourself from the familiar and celebrating differences. You can always get that ‘back home’ feeling when you,

This book’s size is on purpose – it’s designed to give you all the essentials without bulk. You are free to get out there and explore unencumbered. 3. Plan ahead Hardcore independent travelers leave their vacation in the hands of the Fates. But with 15 million visitors to Greece each year, and everyone using the same guidebooks and Internet resources to book that budget hotel or perfect seaside resort, that fate may hold nothing or be a lot more than you budgeted. Plan in advance. If traveling from April to October, reserve as early as possible – this is particularly true for July and August when prices are

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20 percent higher or bookings sold out. Many accommodations left empty for last minute travelers are overpriced. If arriving from November to March, check that the establishment is open since many (especially on islands) close for winter and ferry companies curtail schedules. Also remember that most everything closes on Sunday and eating outside of tourist centers is difficult between 17:00 to 21:00 daily. 4. Live in the moment The most colorful stories of your trip will take shape when you stop following a “to do” list and just be in the moment. Maybe you’ll find a tiny but cozy bakery with savory pastries, or speak with a kind old woman who will point you beyond an olive grove to the most beautiful beach you’ve ever seen. These things have happened to me and are by far my dearest memories.

It’s completely normal to be overwhelmed upon arrival in a new place. Be patient with yourself. Once you recover from jet lag, get a good night’s rest, eat something and take some time to get your bearings, everything will look less dramatic and you’ll feel more comfortable. Even when you’re lost, take pause – things are easier to manage when not in a panic. Traveling in general demands patience, as there will inevitably be a delay or challenge along the way, and this is especially true in Greece where freedom and possibility reign. If you expect the unexpected and accept that things don’t work the way they do back home, you will spare yourself needless frustration. Ask, “What can be done now?” and accept the options available to you with humility and gratitude, rather than dwelling on the past, flying into a rage or forcing a certain result that doesn’t exist for any price.

If you’ve made reservations, planned for experiences that are important and familiarized yourself with this book, the best thing that can happen to you is the unexpected. Do what Greeks do and “go with the wind” and realize that the easiest way to discover something off the map is to not follow it. Live in the moment or you might miss it!

6. Sense of humor required

5. Exercise patience and acceptance

It’s not the end of the world, so laugh and suck it up! Should

Sleeping on a lumpy mattress, sweating for hours on a crowded bus and taking that 10th cold shower may understandably wear on your patience. But did you spend your hard-earned money and come all the way to Greece to complain and wallow in misery?

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you be traveling with a companion or group, a positive attitude and sense of humor are indispensable. It’s their vacation too, and unfair to bring everyone else down. 7. Greece is a country, not a playground In a country that has 6,000 islands, 300 days of sunshine per year and countless beaches and clubs, it’s easy to forget that Greece is a country with history and culture going back to ancient times. Many expect signs in English, giggle at misspellings and wonder why Greece hasn’t done more to modernize and accommodate tourism, its number one source of income. The answer is simple: This unique country is rooted in traditional ways of life, which is precisely its attraction. It is slow to succumb to globalization because customs and artisan ways still matter. Also remember that residents of Greece are people with everyday challenges of their own and not tour guides, so don’t be offended if someone cannot stop to help you. In the spirit of philoxenia – friendship or generosity toward strangers – a great many will happily lend their time if you ask a question and only need a smile or ‘thank you’ in return. 8. Tread consciously

Many islands and villages swell to 3-5 times their population in summer, putting a strain on natural resources and services. Minimize your impact by carrying a reusable shopping bag, use only the water you need, and refill water bottles. If you don’t like tap water, buy one large bottle of spring water instead of five small ones. Take caution in extinguishing cigarettes responsibly, i.e., avoid flicking them into nearby brush or out the car/bus window to prevent forest fires. 9. Be aware, not paranoid Using a little common sense goes a long way to discouraging pickpockets and trouble, so there’s no need to be constantly fearful. Dress modestly when in transit, keep cash close to your body in a money belt, always keep an eye on your bags and/or keep them anchored around your leg, and leave your jewelry and laptop (if possible) at home. 10. Build bridges, not stereotypes By thinking of a country as someone’s home – which it is – it might be easier to understand that you are a guest and manners are appreciated. That’s not to say you shouldn’t live it up, you should. But practice some restraint, e.g., replace the words ‘weird’

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and ‘strange’ with ‘different,’ don’t wrinkle up your face when something displeases you, and be careful when speaking unfavorably about other countries or people. Nearly everyone understands English and a lot of other languages. Try being an ambassador and build bridges, instead of contributing to stereotypes that persist because they tend to be true. I come from a country where everyone is expected to speak English and adapt. So, when in Greece, learning a few words of Greek and respecting the way of life would be welcome. Finally, in looking back on my winter trek through Europe, I can see why my parents and friends thought I was crazy to travel my first time solo without a guidebook or reservations. But to me, it made perfect sense.

Traveling off-season would give me more value for the money, help me avoid crowds, and get to the heart of a country by meeting a greater number of locals. I took no guidebook because all were heavy volumes containing information I didn’t need and history and culture I could easily read before/after my trip. I also refused to make an itinerary because I wanted the freedom to go where I wanted, when I wanted, and with whom. In essence, I wanted a completely different experience from everyone who went in summer and used the same guidebook listings and same itineraries…and do you know what happened? That’s exactly what I got. It changed me, and in doing so changed my life. I’m not saying travel will change your life, but it could. Savor it and see where it takes you!

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L



difference in how well you connect with Greek life, and if you make or miss the πλοίο.

anguage: If you can read it, you Can say It..

This overview of the alphabet, pronunciation and transliteration is not meant to teach you Greek but rather provide basics and reminders as you learn at home and on the road. FROM ALFA TO OMEGA

Most travelers are eager to learn a bit of the language before arriving in Greece, whether through a class, listening to recorded lessons during a commute, or even writing the Greek alphabet. Any proficiency you acquire will make a marked Alphabet & Pronunciation

Anyone who belonged to a fraternity or sorority in college can read Greek rather easily. The rest of us may recognize the π and Σ from math class, but otherwise the Greek alphabet looks like a bunch of symbols, when in fact they are letters from a rich language more than 4000 years old.

Greek

Latin

A α

a

abide

άρωμα

a-ro-ma

aroma

B β Γ γ

v gh y dh

vigor ghost yes the

vee-os ghra-ma yeer-os dhe-ka

life letter circle ten

E ε

e

egg

βίος γράμμα γύρος δέκα

E-la-dha

Greece

zip

Ελλάδα

z I

tree

ee-lee-os

sun

th

that

ήλιος

zο

live

H η

ζω

the-ma

theme

I c or k

tree

θέμα

ee-dhe-a

idea

κλίμα

klee-ma

climate

Δ δ Z ζ

ϑ θ I ι K κ

as in

or

ιδέα

kit Page 32

say it

which means

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(Alphabet & Pronunciation, cont.) Greek Λ λ

M μ N ν Ξ ξ

O o

Latin

as in

l

lamb

m

move

n

no

x or ks

or λίγο

μόνο νέα

ξένος

axe

όλα

o

open

Π π ϖ

p

pop

r

run

Σ σ

s

sun

s

used at the end of a word only

t

town

Υ υ

i or y

tree

f

far

X χ

h

hand

ch

loch

ps

lapse

o

open

P ρ ς

T τ

Φ ϕ φ

Ψ ψ

Ω ω

πόλη ρύζι

σάκα

ταξί

ύμνος

φόρμα χέρι

χρονιά ψηλός ώρα

Note that some consonants in English have no Greek equivalent. Three vowels have the same ‘ee’ sound; and two vowels the same ‘o’ sound. This greatly simplifies pronunciation. Do you recognize some words? Mόνο (mono) + πόλη (poly) = monopoly, and γράμμα (gramma) as in gram-

say it

which means

lee-gho

a little

mo-no

only

ne-a

news

ksen-os

foreign

o-la

all

po-lee

city

ree-zee

rice

sa-ka

sack

taks-ee

taxi

eem-nos

form

for-ma

form

her-ee

hand

chron-ee-a

year

psee-los

tall

or-a

hour

mar. If you familiarize yourself with Greek letters, it will go a long way to help you read signs and schedules that aren’t in English, and give you confidence that you know a lot of Greek already – you just don’t realize it!

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Pronunciation Keys

no long or short vowels, and no influence from other letters.

Greek is phonetically consistent — the way a word is spelled is how it’s pronounced. So if you can read it, you can say it.

All of these vowels sound exactly the same at the beginning, middle, or end of a word. When listening to live or recorded conversations of native Greek speakers, notice how all vowels are enunciated: a-e-ro-dhro-mee-o (airport). Each vowel gets attention.

THE VOWELS My Greek teacher calls me 'Woman of 1,000 vowels' because of my tendency to apply English exceptions to Greek. It isn’t necessary. Each vowel has one clear sound. There are VOWEL

is always

α

ah

abide

eh

egg

ee

tree

ee

tree

oh

open

ee

tree

oh

open

ε

η ι

ο υ

ω

Wondering, “Hey, where’s the ‘u'?" That’s coming up next.

as in

or

αλλά

επτά ήθος

ίδιο

οδός

ύπνος

ώρα

THE COMBINATIONS Pronunciation for these vowel and consonant combinations are consistent in every word. The only two cases where a vowel pairing above is not treated like a combination and pronounced separately is when:

say it

which means

a-la

but

ep-ta

seven

ee-thos

moral

ee-dee-o

same

o-dos

street

eep-nos

sleep

or-a

hour

»» an accent appears above the first vowel, as in κομπολόι (kom-bo-lo-ee), which are Greek worry beads; or »» an umlaut appears above the second letter, as in μαïμου (ma-ee-moo), which means monkey. Feminine, Masculine, and Neuter

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COMBO

is

as in

or

αι

e

egg

αίμα

e-ma

blood

ει

i

tree

είδη

ee-dee

item

οι

i

tree

οίκος

ee-kos

house

ου

u

oops

πού

poo

where

αυ

af av

after avid

αυτό αυγό

af-to av-go

this egg

ευ

ef ev

effort ever

εύκολο εύρω

ef-ko-lo ev-ro

easy euro

The meaning of a word is in its root. However, Greek nouns are feminine, masculine and neuter, and influence adjectives, plurals and possessives in the same sentence accordingly. There are exceptions, but generally the following applies. Noun is

Masculine

Feminine

Neuter

Also note:

Articles Sing. Plur. o

η

το

oι

οι

τα

Sing.

Endings Plur.

Poss (of)

η/α

ες

της/την

oς

ι/ο/μα

οι

ια/α/ματα

του/τον

του/των

say it

which means

Accents for emphasis are applied on words with two or more syllables and one-syllable questions, but absent if words are written in caps. People add ‘oula’ or ‘aki’ to the end of names or things to denote endearment. For example, skylaki (skee-la-kee) means "little dog." You can ask how something is spelled, but it’s easier to ask how it’s written (Pos to grafete?). Otherwise, it’d be necessary to learn additional words just for the alphabet (alfa, vita, ghamma, dhelta...).

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Planning Your Adventure GREEK

is

μ

b mp

box amber

as in

ντ

d nt

dog kind

γγ

ng

γκ

or

say it

μπαρ κόμπος

which means

bar kom-bos

bar knot

ντούς πέντε

dous pen-dhe

shower five

angel

Aγγλία

Ang-lee-a

UK

g

green

γκάζι

ga-zee

gas

τζ

j

jump

τζάμι

ja-mee

glass pane

τσ

ts

bets

τσιγάρο

tsee-gar-o

cigarette

Making It Less Greek to You There is no standard for transliterating Greek to Latin letters, resulting in confusion for those new to Greece and Greek. This is because of: »» variations in formal (purist) and everyday (popular) versions of Greek »» differences between transliterated and translated Greek The most common deviations come from how people interpret consonants: »» contrasting ancient and modern names »» whether or not the H should be dropped: Ellas vs. Hellas »» dropping the s or not, as in Patra vs. Patras and Ko vs. Kos

»» if words should be as written or as they sound, i.e. Lesbos vs. Lesvos »» whether K or C should be used, as in Mykonos or Myconos »» whether F or Ph should be used, as in Stefanopoulos or Stephanopoulos Other variations stem from combinations or vowels having the same sound: »» ai or only e, so Aigaleo becomes Egaleo »» oi and ei or only i, as in Irakleio or Iraklio (also written Heraklion) »» changing Greek letters υ and η to y and h, or i

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»» leaving the mp or converting to mb or only b, i.e., Ambelokipi, Ampelokipi, Abelokipi

Come here: Waving of the hand, like saying good-bye or move back.

Understanding these variations will assist you in reading signs, Web sites and printed literature, such as books and maps.

Yes? or What?: Quick shaking of the head from side to side.

Non-Verbal Language

No: Quick backward tilt of the head or lift of eyebrows and click of the tongue. Yes: Slow downward bow of the head to one side, slight closing of eyes. Unbelievable, or Oh, no: Right hand circling

Ready?

After you’ve had some practice with the alphabet and pronunciation, begin to review the end of each chapter, where essential phrases and vocabulary taken from everyday conversation are included to get you started and keep it simple. Knowing even a little of this beautiful language will help you integrate quickly, ingratiate you to locals, and thus reward and enrich you. Have fun with it!

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GREECE: Instructions for Use

Planning Your Adventure

For everything else you'll need on-site during your Greek Adventure, here's what you'll find in the indispensable travel operations manual, Greece: Instructions for Use*

 In

Greece

You Know You're In Greece When..

HELLO HELLAS

Καλός Ήρθατε στην Ελλάδα

Times, Dates and Numbers Hours of Operation Never on Sunday The Strike: H Απεργία Moda not Togas Mind if I Smoke? The WC Being Thrifty, but not Spartan Living Your Myth

GETTING AROUND: By Car

Traffic: Η Κίνηση Types of Roads Tolls Road Signs Parking



Car Rental Emergency Road Service Petrol, please. Motorcycle and Scooter Rental

On the Oδός

GETTING AROUND:

By Train Types of Trains Which Class? The Schedule Ticketing & Reservations The Station Luggage Storage All Aboard Suburban Railway

GETTING AROUND: Land, Sea, and Air Long-distance Buses: Ferries Greek Islands for Hopping Air Travel Page 38

Greece: Instructions for Use Available from Amazon.com, bn.com, and any bookseller near you. For bulk sales, please contact, Beagle Bay, Inc. at beaglebay.com, or call Jacqueline Simonds at 775.827.8654. Available through Ingram and Baker & Taylor and all major distributors.. illustratapress.com ISBN: 978-1885436-450

GREECE: Instructions for Use

Planning Your Adventure

GETTING AROUND: In Town

SHOPPING





By Local Bus & Trolley By Metro By Tram By Taxi/On Foot

KEEPING IN TOUCH Phoning in Greece

Online in Greece Hail Hermes!: Greek Post Office Couriers Customs and Duties

MONEY

The Euro: Το Εύρω Currency Exchange Credit Cards Avoiding Trouble

EATING and DRINKING

Types of Eateries At the Greek Table Ordering The Gyro: It’s Yeer-oh, not Jie-roh Frappé and Kafé Kefi and Krasi Beyond Baklava Cover, Tax, and Tipping

The Newsstand: Το Περίπτερο The Pharmacy: Το Φαρμακείο Books, Bath and Psilikatzidiko Food Stores Farmers Market: Λαïκη Discounts and Bargaining VAT Refund

TOURIST INFORMATION

The EOT Tourist Police: The Men in Blue and White Medical & Dental Care Ten Final Tips

APPENDIX A to Z Airline Companies: Intra-Europe; Airport Web Sites; Archaeological Sites and Museum Information; Bus, Metro, Tram and Trolley; Car Rental Companies; Cell Phone Service Providers; Conversion Chart; Courier Companies; Currency Exchange Rate; Customs Information; Earthquake Safety; Embassies and Consulates; Emergency Phone Numbers & Assistance; Ferry Companies; Festivals; Guidebooks & Online Travel Resources; Holidays; Internet/Online Access Resources; Language Instruction; Maps & Driving; Money; Passport Information; Post Office; Recommended Films; Recommended Reading; Taxi Companies; Tourist Information Resources; Train Information; Travel Insurance.

Vocabulary (English to Greek) Index

* When all else fails, read the Instructions! Page 39