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JULY2016
Contents
Technical
18
18
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Vol. 39 No. 07
Features
28
Restoration Tips & Tricks
All Hail the King An assignment to Ken Nagel’s Muscle Car Museum in Plano, Illinois, changes course when we get snake bitten
Restoration project got you in a panic? Here’s a quick read designed to get your project on course
40
34
40
How To: 4- to 5-Lug Conversion
Screamin’ Shelby! Hot Rod Drag Week veteran Jay Brown proudly carries the FE flag, and won his class (again) in 2015 with a bad-to-the-bone SOHC in a 1969 Shelby G.T. 500 clone
Plan for safety, better braking, and 5-lug Performance
54
Dakota Digital Dash Installation
Departments
Know what’s going on with your engine with the VHX direct-fit instrument cluster assembly for the 1965 Mustang
34
O N T H E C OV E R
Dominick Domato got our stellar cover shot of Jay Brown’s 8-second G.T. 500 clone on last year’s Hot Rod Drag Week, where it won its class. Check out the story on page 40 and prepare to drool over Brown’s impressive collection of rare Fords. And we won’t even mention his home shop—the stuff car guy dreams are made of. Mark Houlahan photographed the Dakota Digital dash at the top of the page, while Jerry Heasley, Jim Smart, and Ryan Brutt shot the bottom photos.
06 H O O F B E ATS 08 PO N Y E X PR E S S 10 PO N Y TA L E S 14 R A R E F I N D S 66 R E S T O R O UN D UP 68 B E YO N D TH E B A S I CS 70 R E A D E R S’ A L B UM 74 H I N D S I G H T
Mustang Monthly (ISSN 0274-8460) July 2016 Volume 39, Number 7, is published monthly by TEN: The Enthusiast Network, LLC, 261 Madison Avenue, 6th floor, New York, NY 10016. Copyright © 2016 by TEN: The Enthusiast Network Magazines, LLC. All Rights Reserved. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and additional mailing offices. Subscription rates for one year (12 monthly issues) U.S., APO, FPO, and U.S. Possessions $29.97. Canadian orders add $12.00 per year and international orders add $24.00 per year (for surface mail postage). Payment in advance, U.S. funds only. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 707.4.12.5); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to Mustang Monthly, P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235. Contributions should be sent to: Mustang Monthly Magazine, 831 S. Douglas St., El Segundo, CA 90245. Manuscripts must meet the criteria of the Writer’s Guidelines. For a copy, send an SASE to Mustang Monthly Magazine, 831 S. Douglas St., El Segundo, CA 90245.
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M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
THEY CALL HIM MR. TIPS
When I was in high school, my car had developed a miss and a detonation situation that hadn’t been there before. The timing hadn’t moved, and I adjusted the Holley as good as I thought I could. Yet the thing would still rattle like four rocks in a coffee can when I’d jump on it, and that’s with 93 octane in the tank. I remember fussing with it in the driveway, and probably cursing like a sailor loud enough for the neighbors to hear. The old guy across the street (he was probably my age now, but when I was 17, he was considered an old guy) came over to see what the yelling was all about. Through more swearing, I explained my situation. He looked at a few things and made a suggestion that made me question his sanity. He said, go get an old soda bottle, fill it with water, and come back outside. When I returned with the water, he had me start the engine and hold it at about 3,000 rpm, while he carefully dribbled the water out of the bottle, over his thumb, into the carburetor. I thought he had lost his damn mind, and told him so, but he said, “Shut up and just hold it at 3,000 until I tell you to stop.” The car coughed like a chain smoker and belched smoke like a chimney, but when the bottle was empty, he gave me the okay sign, and I let it idle back down. It idled the same as before, but when I took it out for a test drive, the detonation was almost gone—not completely—but it was much better. Turns out, dribbling water into the carb, as long as the engine is revving high enough to push it all out and not hydrolock the cylinders, was like steam cleaning the combustion chambers. It blew a bunch of built-up carbon out of the exhaust, which effectively lowered the compression ratio and made it less
O ONE OF THE MORE POPULAR TYPES OF EDITORIAL ANY CAR MAGAZINE can offer is a tips and tricks story, which provides handy tricks, tools, and other easy ways of doing things to cars that you probably hadn’t thought of before. For me, my dad was a wealth of tips and tricks, and especially, tools, gleaned from his 50 years as a Master Mechanic with heavy equipment (think Caterpillar earth movers), which applied just as well to street cars. Nine times out of 10, when I’d get stuck on a problem, he would have a hack (as it’s so popularly called these days) to solve the problem. Oftentimes, the tip was to be more patient, but there are a million little things he taught me over the years, from diagnosing engine problems to the best way to handle a wrench in tight spaces. You’d think there’s only one way to hold a ratchet and socket, for example, but you’d be wrong. The best tips and tricks usually come from the guys a generation or two older than us, since they’ve been there, done that, and probably have made all the mistakes that you’re about to make.
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prone to knocking. I still remember thinking, “Son of a gun, I never would have thought of that.” I immediately cleaned the carburetor out a little more to keep it from happening again. He told me the GM dealer’s parts counter had what was called a top-end cleaner that did the same thing. It was thick goo, instead of water, and much higher price tag. For a quick fix, though, the water worked just fine. That is just one of the tips and tricks I’ve picked up in the years since. Most of the time, they came from hanging out with fellow car guys and professional mechanics, almost always older, watching what they did and bugging them with questions. The best way to learn anything, especially when it comes to working on cars, is to lean on the older generation for advice. Which is one of the reasons we put together this month’s article, “28 Classic Mustang Restoration Tips You Have To See,” starting on page 18. We collected Mustang-specific tech tips from seasoned veterans in the Mustang world like Bob Perkins, Jim Smart, Dave Stribling, and more. Check it out, and see if you learn something new.
Most of the time, they came from hanging out with fellow car guys and professional mechanics, almost always older, watching what they did and bugging them with questions. The best way to learn anything, especially when it comes to working on cars, is to lean on the older generation for advice.
CALLING ALL YOUNG CAR GUYS AND GIRLS! If you’re under the age of 35 and have a ’65-’73 Mustang, get your car featured on Mustang-360.com and win a $200 gift certificate from Tony Branda through our GenerationM promotion. Just take a video of you and your Mustang and tell us why you should be our Generation-M Club winner. Post it to our Facebook page and at the end of each month we’ll pick a winner. See www.facebook.com/mustangmonthlymag for more information.
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LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
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MUSTANG II NIRVANA
THE LOST BOSS
NO EXCUSES
really enjoyed reading Rob Kinnan’s story about the road trip in Rodney and the under-appreciated Mustang II. Hopefully, more vendors will be willing to make parts for these little gems. I know first-hand how hard it is to find parts for my 1976 hatchback (302 with a fourspeed). Maybe with your vast vendor resources you could list those that have parts or crossreferences of parts that would fit a Mustang II. I can’t seem to locate engine mounts or clutch assemblies for the V-8 four-speed. Any help would certainly be appreciated. Dave Hogan Via email
am the owner of the 1971 “Lost Boss” VIN 1F02H100053, (previously known as 1F02G10003 and 1F05R100053), which has been covered several times by Mustang Monthly. When I saw the photo on the last page of the April 2016 issue, entitled “All the Pretty 1971s,” I immediately recognized what looks to be my Boss 351 prototype car. I am writing because I have been looking for any photos I can find depicting this Ford promotional car, which was used on the auto-show circuit at that time. Your comments on the photo indicated you had found a large color file of photography from Ford’s public-relations department. Did you find any other photos of this Grabber Yellow 1971 Boss 351 that is such an important part of Ford Mustang automotive history? I am a long-time subscriber and reader of your excellent publication(s) and look forward to receiving them each month. By the way, CarTech Books just released a new book called, Lost Muscle Cars, which includes a chapter about this never-produced 1971 Boss 302 (I authored that chapter). Andrew Hack Palm Coast, Florida
t is way past time to be offering excuses on presenting Mustang II articles. It reminds me of the article in Mopar Muscle about a-leaning-tower-of-power 225ci six in a 1970 Barracuda convertible. As far as I am concerned, if it looks hot, it’s hot. Not every car needs a 429 or a Hemi. I have seen sixes built to 200hp with just a cam and carb, or to 500hp with a turbo or supercharger. It is all in the build and presentation. Also, no one who lived during the times of insurance jack-ups, the finale of lead gas, and de-compressed, de-cammed engines era could possibly believe the bloated 1971 to 1973 Mustang was going to continue. By 1975, with a very modest 302, the pony could run with the rest of the post-muscle car era machines. As to your “Part 5 of the Project Road Warrior” article, from an old coot who has done it all and seen it all, I can offer two things: That is a sweet, well-done 1965 hardtop and Courtney Barber is a fox (that’s a word from the ’60s)! Keep on, keepin’ on! Ronald J. Jurosek Dearborn Heights, Michigan
There still aren’t a lot of aftermarket vendors making parts for Iacocca’s Little Jewel, but we were recently notified of a public Facebook group called “1974-1978 Mustang II parts for sale only.” As its name implies, it’s for those selling (or wanting) Mustang II parts only, not complete cars.
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Mustang Monthly Readers T E X T
M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
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NEWS IN MUSTANG WORLD
Shelby, Hertz, and Ford Release a 50th Anniversary GT-H Model
A
ny Mustang fan worth their chrome pony emblem knows the 1966 story about Carroll Shelby working with Hertz Rent-a-Car to build special Shelby G.T. 350 Mustangs for Hertz’s new Rent-A-Racer program. Shelby and Hertz believed the program would be a great way to get renters into specially prepared Shelbys and enjoy the thrill of sitting behind the wheel of a real performance machine. These Mustangs featured automatic transmissions (though, a few did squeak through with four-speeds)
that Shelby added to the traditional G.T. 350 upgrades and topped it off with Hertz gold Le Mans stripes and G.T. 350-H rocker stripes. The two companies repeated the successful Ford Shelby GT-H program with the same formula in 2006 and 2007. Today, the story of the Shelby/Hertz Rent-A-Racer is legendary, and the first two generation cars are among the most coveted by collectors worldwide.
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M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
To honor the original program’s 50th anniversary, Ford, Shelby, and Hertz unveiled a 2016 Shelby GT-H in advance of the New York International Auto Show. This unique, 50th anniversary GT-H will be part of a limited run of 140 units and available for rent beginning Memorial Day weekend exclusively through the Hertz Adrenaline Collection at select airports in the continental United States. “The 1966 Ford Shelby G.T. 350-H became
a legend from the moment it was introduced,” Joe Conway, Co-CEO of Carroll Shelby International and CEO of Shelby American said. “Ten years ago, the 2006 Ford Shelby GT-H earned the same rock-star status when it was introduced during the New York Auto Show. We worked closely with Ford Performance to make the 2016 Shelby GT-H the most exciting Mustang ever to wear the iconic Hertz black-andgold livery.” You won’t mistake the 2016 Ford
Shelby GT-H for anything but a Shelby/Hertz Mustang with its iconic gold Le Mans stripes running over Ford’s rich and deep Shadow Black basecoat/clearcoat finish. Matching rocker stripes that include special “Shelby GT-H” nomenclature, along with special Hertz Edition emblems, finish off the exterior. Inside, you’ll find the Shelby GT-H logo on the seat headrests, floor mats, and door-sill plates. A serialized vehicle badge is found under the hood. In addition to the distinctive color and badging, the Ford Shelby GT-H will have one heck of an exhaust note courtesy of a Ford Performance cat-back performance exhaust system. The Shelby GT-H also features a Ford Performance Handling Pack (lowering springs, larger anti-sway bars, and specifically tuned dampers). Shelby American adds a unique vented hood, carbonfiber front splitter, and rear spoilers. Lastly, special staggeredfit 19-inch Ford Performance wheels with “GT-H” center caps are wrapped in high-performance Michelin rubber. Shelby American will build the Ford Shelby GT-H at its vehicle assembly facility in Las Vegas, where it currently builds the Shelby Super Snake, Shelby Raptor, continuation Cobras, and other Shelby vehicles. Total production is expected to number only around 140 units, destined for Hertz rental fleets across the country. This special-edition car will give Hertz customers a truly exclusive driving experience. Watch the actual build of a Shelby GT-H at www.shelby.com. To learn more about the 2016 Shelby GT-H, visit www.hertz.com/shelbygth. Hertz Adrenaline Collection vehicles may also be reserved through travel agents or by calling Hertz toll-free at (800) 654-3131. Stay tuned to Mustang-360.com for more updates on the Ford Shelby GT-H. We’re hoping to be in line Memorial Day weekend to rent a racer ourselves and get a first-hand look!
GARY PATTERSON
VP OF INTERNATIONAL & STRATEGIC SALES, SHELBY AMERICAN, INC.
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staple in our collection of Ford literature is George Reid’s original Ford Small Block Engine Parts Interchange book. It has been worn thin from use and answering technical questions for friends and readers alike. Now, CarTech Books has announced an updated version of his well-known best-seller that focuses directly on small-block, Windsor, and Cleveland engine families. As in the original, the book goes into expansive detail on every aspect of these engines, including blocks, heads, induction, supporting parts, and more. Charts list OE part numbers, applications, and cross references. Common swap items are described, and how to convert or add these parts to different engines, where possible, is explained. The text includes useful know-how, such as how to fit Cleveland heads to Ford’s small-block and Windsor engines, and differences in two-barrel versus four-barrel heads, and more. From the early ’60s right up to the end of the small-block Ford era and its fuel-injected updates, Ford Small Block Engine Parts Interchange has your answer. By combining some of the best parts from various years, you can unlock great performance potential in ways Ford never offered to the general public. Following the advice in Ford Small-Block Engine Parts Interchange, these engine combinations can become reality. You will find valuable information on cranks, blocks, heads, cams, intakes, rods, pistons, and even accessories to guide you through your project. Knowing which factory engine parts can be used across the wide range of more than 40 years of small-block Ford production is certainly invaluable to the hot-rodder and swap meet/eBay shopperr. Whether building a stroker Cleveland or a hopp ped-up d Windsor, this book is an essential guide. It is a must for those with garages and shops fu ull off Ford engine parts for upcoming projects. s. The 8.5x11-inch softbound book (ISB BN: 978-1-61325-212-3) features 144 pages packed with 360 color photos and charts. You caan purchase this release for $26.95, plus $6..95 shipping and handling, by calling CarTech ch at (800) 551- 4754 or visiting www.cartecch-books.com/ford-sb-interchange.
fco Performance Group has released all new 2016 product catalogs for its Afco, Dyynatech, and Pro Shocks divisions. Obbtain PDF copies of these catalogs g via Afco’s website or submit an order form to ship a printed catalog to your home at www.afcodynapro.com/content/afco-catalog-dynatech-catalog-pro-shockscatalog. Power Stop, LLC (www.powerstop.com) has signed on to sponsor the Speed Stop Challenge at all 11 of Optima’s Search for the Ultimate Street Car events in 2016. The Speed Stop Challenge is one of five challenges competitors must tackle to earn points to qualify for the 9th Annual Optima Ultimate Street Car Invitational in Las Vegas the weekend after the SEMA show. See more at www.driveusca.com. Quick Fuel Technology, a leader in performance carburetion for street and racing applications, has launched an all-new website full of technical information on how to set up and tune carbureted fuel systems. See it at www.quickfueltechnology.com. Rain-X can remind you when it’s time to change your daily driver’s wiper blades. Simply sign up for email or text message reminders at http://reminders.rainx.com to receive a reminder every six months. It’s as simple as that!
At Mothers,® we’re always thinking of ways to make the world a better place for cars. And while some ideas may never make it onto the shelves, rest assured, we’ll never stop innovating.
RAREFINDS
Ryan Brutt T E X T & P H O T O S
T THE WORLD IS CERTAINLY GETTING SMALLER. You used to have to look in old magazines and Penny Savers for random ads about a Mach 1 or fastback Mustang, but nowadays finding a specific car is as easy as jumping on the Internet. For instance, a friend forwarded me a local Craigslist ad for “Shelby G.T. 350H,” and I thought, “No way is it real and for sale on Craigslist no less!” But I was very, very wrong. Contacting the seller through the ad, I actually talked to the neighbor of the car’s owner. He was helping her get the car into a new caretaker’s hands and was happy to put me in touch with the owner. I quickly made arrangements to go out and see the car, not far from where I live, and headed over the next day. When looking for barn finds, I’m used to traipsing around farm fields and other wide-open spaces, not well-manicured suburbia. It just goes to show that you never know where you might strike gold. Pulling into the driveway, there the Shelby was, just off to the side. Questions began racing through my head: “How long had it been sitting there? And who has a G.T. 350H just hanging around
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in their driveway?!” I quickly got the answers as I rang the doorbell and introduced myself to the owner, a kind lady named Judy, and her puppy. We talked for a bit about the prairie-style architecture of her home, and how she and her husband had modified it, then I cut to the chase and brought up the car. The story went, they always had projects they were working on and the Shelby had been one of them. The 1966 Shelby G.T. 350H resulted from a collaboration between Carroll Shelby and Hertz Rent-A-Car. Members of the Hertz Sports Car Club could rent one of these rocket ships. We’ve heard numerous stories of people renting a G.T. 350H for the weekend, beating on it at the racetrack, and turning it back in. We presume without letting the rental car giant know what they really had done with the car. “What, the tires are worn out? I have no idea how that happened.” In 1967, Judy and her then boyfriend were living in the St. Louis area, and he came up with the idea to buy this used Shelby G.T. 350H. It was more than a year before they got married, but she helped him pay for the car. As you would expect, they loved it and drove the car all over the country. For a while, they lived in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, and would drive the Shelby down to St. Louis. They managed to rack up more than 100,000 miles while they owned it—a lot of miles for a car that was made to be a rent-a-racer!
Unfortunately, a few events sidelined the car. A small engine fire damaged the original hood (now in storage) and a few other pieces, but they were still driving the car up until 1982, when something happened that put the car away for the next 33 years. And while it did move around a bit, for the last few years it sat covered in the corner of the driveway, waiting for the day it would be fixed. Sadly, that day would not come, as Judy’s husband passed away in January 2015. During the transition of her life, she decided to part with the Shelby, so the next caretaker could restore it back into the thoroughbred it once had been. That’s when I came into the picture. Back outside, we uncovered the car and I got my first good look at it. You can’t miss the black paint, dual gold racing stripes, and G.T. 350H stripes down low on the rockers. It took my breath away. In all my travels, I had only seen a handful of Shelbys but never a G.T. 350H. And here one sat, less than an hour from my home—crazy! Going over the car inch by inch, it looked to be fairly complete. The engine appeared to be correct (even though many had been torn out in 1966 illegally and replaced with a regular 289). The passenger-side rear wheel even looked to be one of the original rims and tires. We surmised this tire was probably the spare that had been put on during the past decade or two to temporarily replace another bad tire. The other side still wears the snow tires it has had for
Q The passenger-side quarter shows the damage from an unknown entity impacting it.
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A CRAIGSLIST AD LEADS US TO A LEGITIMATE 1966 SHELBY G.T. 350H RARE FIND!
Q The crusty and rusty posterior of the car, with the original G.T. 350 emblem and Shelby gas cap still in place.
Q This is where the Shelby has been sitting for years, tucked up next to the retaining wall. Check out the snow tire!
Q You get an idea of the moisture problems of the Midwest, with the doors starting to get scale rust.
years. Snow tires on a 1966 Shelby G.T. 350H; that’s Chicago for you. The quarters are in pretty bad shape. It looks like a tree branch or something had fallen on and dented them both, as well as the trunk. Looking at that rusting rear bumper with the Shelby G.T. 350 gas filler cap above, it really started to sink in how unique a car this was. Scoops still hung from the quarters; the glass was still all intact and in good shape; the interior was dirty, but not terrible; the rare Shelby woodgrain steering wheel and Shelby tach were still there, ready to head down the road in style. When I looked down and saw daylight, however, that’s when the knot in my gut turned. The floors were gone, a combination of Chicago weather and sitting on concrete (concrete is slightly porous and can hold moisture). Both sides needed serious attention, which
is not unexpected in the Rust Belt. Up front, it looked better. There was still a Shelby valve-covered 289 under the hood and a Shelby tag on the fender. It looked a bit worse for wear, but other than the air cleaner, which was in storage, everything looked to be there. Looking up the tag in the Shelby Registry, it indicates this was originally a California car, shipped first to a Los Angeles Hertz rental agency, and ending up at Fairway Ford in Placentia, California. The car was originally invoiced for $3,859.75 in 1966. After that, the registry lost track of the car, until now! Since my visit, the car has been sold and is back on the West Coast, where it will get a full restoration. You never know where you are going to find a cool, unique Mustang. Keep your eyes open for them, either on the road or on the Internet. Yes, sometimes you find a rare jewel, even on a pedestrian website like Craigslist.
Q The original 289 is safely tucked away under the hood but definitely needs some lovin’. It looks like all the Shelby pieces are still there and the engine has been untouched other than routine maintenance and a replacement upper radiator hose.
Q The original Shelby tachometer, proudly mounted to the dash to this day.
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NewBits
{ THE LATEST PRODUCTS } WRAP IT UP
iiThe tight confines of the Mustang engine compartment often mean heat emanating from the exhaust that wreaks havoc on wiring, hoses, and more. Wrapping your headers with Thermo Tec’s Platinum Exhaust Insulating Wrap, which features a proprietary weave-lock design and is made using volcanic rock (naturally resistant to heat), is a sure way to protect these items from radiant heat up to 2,000 degrees F. Reduce underhood temperatures, and increase horsepower with this simple solution. The wrap is sold in 1- or 2-inch widths and in 50-foot rolls. INFO: (800) 274-8436; THERMOTEC.COM.
SHELBY WOOD WHEEL
iiThe 1967 Shelby G.T. 350 and G.T. 500s featured a beautiful woodrimmed steering wheel to set off the deluxe interior. Now, thanks to Scott Drake, you can have that exact same wheel for your Shelby restoration, tribute, or any 1965-1973 Mustang for that matter. The new Corso Feroce CS500 steering wheel features a real solid wood rim with finger detents with a black band around the rear surface just like the original wheel. The hub is CNC-machined aluminum, and you can order a concourscorrect Shelby horn button to complete the look (sold separately). A column sleeve (PN S7MS-3600-SLV) is required for 1968-1973 applications.
INFO: (800) 999-0289; SCOTTDRAKE.COM.
HIGH-GRIP WORKWEAR
iiDickies, a name known the world over for tough yet stylish workwear, has joined forces with Michelin to design a new line of antislip footwear for service industries. Perfect for garages, shops, and service centers, the line features three high-traction shoe designs: Apex, Charge, and Dash (shown here). The shoes deliver outstanding stability, slip resistance, and comfort. The soles are designed with Michelin tire patterns for maximum traction, with deep grooves for liquid evacuation. Memory foam insoles, a padded collar and tongue, and moisture-wicking linings provide all-day comfort. INFO: (800) 263-5903; DICKIESSR.COM.
MUSTANG MASTERS
iiThe brake experts at Wilwood now offer a 15/16-inch bore tandem master cylinder for 1965-1973 Mustangs with manual brakes. The all-new tandem master cylinder provides for matching a high-capacity master to custom disc brake upgrades. The single-pushrod master cylinder is made from lightweight aluminum with a machined billet lid and utilizes a pressure-balancing bellows gasket. Finishes include media burnished for a polished look, black e-coat, or plain aluminum. The master cylinders are available standalone or can be purchased in a kit. Kits include the master cylinder, combination proportioning valve, mounting bracket, prebent fluid lines, and hardware. INFO: (805) 388-1188; WILWOOD.COM.
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COYOTE SWAP HELP
iiRon Francis Wiring adds the 2011-2014 Ford 5.0L DOHC Coyote engine to its ever-growing list of EFI conversion wiring solutions. The new wiring kit includes all sensor connections preinstalled on color-coded wiring, which is printed for easy identification. This wiring solution supports return or returnless fuel systems, and automatic (6R80 six-speed) or manual transmissions. Ron Francis can even flash program your PCM to defeat Ford’s Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS). Detailed wiring diagrams are included to make installation a breeze. INFO: (800) 292-1940; RONFRANCIS.COM.
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“MUSTANG” is a trademark of Ford Motor Company; California Mustang is not affiliated with Ford Motor Company. Summer Sale prices end on 08-15-2015.
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Jim Smart T E X T • Jim Smart, Dave Stribling, Mustang Monthly Archives P H O T O S
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MUST-SEE CLASSIC MUSTANG RESTORATION TIPS
Restoration project got you in a panic? Here are expert strategies designed to get your project back on course
C
lassic Mustang restoration projects look like so much fun going in, imagining the finished product and all that goes with it, plus the adrenaline rush of a teardown and a body in the raw. But this is usually where excitement ends, and the harsh, lonely, real world of restoration begins. Anyone who tells you automobile restoration is easy is not telling the truth. Even for the most seasoned restorers, automobile restoration is grueling at best. It is always long on twists and turns and success often depends upon your personality,
budget, support system, and something known as raw tenacity. Even if you’ve never performed a restoration before, you better know what you’re getting into. Restoration projects require proper planning, a realistic budget, an enclosed garage, tools to get the job done, self honesty, and real commitment. You must have a written plan that covers what’s going to be done and in what order. Impulsiveness and lack of self-discipline are what run restoration projects off the rails. It is that left turn amid a restoration that gets a lot of us into trouble. That’s why your plan must
be realistic and list goals you can achieve. Never kid yourself. It is one thing to set goals and quite another to set realistic goals. When you set unrealistic goals, prepare to be disappointed and emotionally derailed. Once your spirits are beaten midrestoration, it is challenging to get back in the saddle. And that’s why we’re here at Mustang Monthly. We want to show the way and pass along the voice of experience by amassing some of the best advice in the restoration business. The knowledge in these pages comes from a lifetime of successful and failed restoration and restomod projects.
Begin With a Plan
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No restoration project should begin without a written plan and realistic goals. Set goals you are confident you can achieve. There’s no pie-in-the-sky in a restoration. You experience joy in the hurdles crossed and real letdown when things go wrong. Follow a logical process in your planning, beginning with a productive teardown and cataloging of parts and prioritize from there. And never kid yourself: It is always more expensive than you budget, and there’s never the time you have planned. There will always be distractions.
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26 MUST-SEE RESTORATI0N TIPS
Look Before You Leap
Build a Technical Library
Look before you leap into a potential restoration project. Examine the body thoroughly for crash damage and rust. A project may be cheap to get into, but there is usually a reason. You can rarely get something for nothing and that includes buying a classic Mustang. A pile is a pile is a pile. If you have to perform a lot of sheet-metal repair and panel replacement, it isn’t a bargain. Move on.
• DAVE STRIBLING, DAVE STRIBLING RESTORATIONS, CRAWFORDSVILLE, INDIANA Before you begin your restoration project, build a good technical library containing books specific to your project. Clockwise from top right are good ones to have. A set of Jim Osborn Reproductions factory assembly manuals is an absolute must for any restoration project. The Mustang Recognition Guide from California Mustang remains a restoration favorite, though it was originally published quite some time ago. We suggest purchasing Ford factory Shop Manuals (don’t rely on the auto-store books, as these Ford manuals are available as reproductions in print or digital form from California Mustang). I use the AMK Guide to Ford Fasteners 1955-1973 in conjunction with the Jim Osborn assembly manuals. The Mustang and Ford Small Block V-8 1962-1969 by Bob Mannel remains the best book ever written on small-block Ford identification.
Choose a Shop You Trust
Choose the Best Paint-Stripping Method
• TERRY SIMPSON, THE RESTOMOD SHOP, STOCKTON, CALIFORNIA If you’re considering farming out your restoration project to a restoration or body shop, do extensive homework beforehand. Check out a shop’s reputation online and through word of mouth before committing. Get a thorough estimate and be sure to get it all in writing. You should receive both a solid understanding of what’s expected along with a timeline of when it will be completed. When you deliver the vehicle, perform a complete inventory of all parts before leaving. Cell-phone pictures of the car are always a good idea. Stay in close touch with a restoration shop while the work is being accomplished. Out of sight, out of mind is never a good thing for the customer or the shop.
Paint removal is one of the first steps in a restoration once the body is stripped to the bone. The best method of paint removal is mechanically, via sanding or soft media blasting. Walnut shells, plastic, and glass beads are among the kindest to steel, aluminum, and die-cast because they run cooler and don’t peen the metal. You wind up with raw steel ready for any repair and primer coat. Two other forms of media blasting are baking soda and dry-ice blasting, but they can be more expensive.
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Methodical Disassembly
Use the Right Tools
When you begin a restoration, start at the front end and work your way aft, cataloging all parts, putting them in marked containers, and making a prompt decision about their destiny. Keep old parts as reference sources for vehicle assembly, and dispose of these items once your restoration is complete. Take liberal pictures of your Mustang as disassembly ensues and store these images in a safe place..
Restorations call for a number of specialized tools designed to make the going easier, such as this windshield-wiper arm removal tool and windshield molding tool, which are available from any number of tool-supply houses like Harbor Freight. Arm yourself with the right tools before getting started. Some tools you can rent locally, especially if you will only be using them once.
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T HE POWER OF B OL D STY L I N G AN D
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26 MUST-SEE RESTORATI0N TIPS
Look What You Can Do With a Bottle Opener
Bolt From the New
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Check this out—a humble bottle opener to remove drip-rail molding. The question is, how many of us still have a bottle opener in the kitchen?
• NORTHWEST PONY SHOPPE, SNOHOMISH, WASHINGTON During a visit to the Northwest Pony Shoppe years ago, we were shown a terrific method of restoring original classic Mustang hardware when your budget prohibits buying new or you prefer to stay with original. You can do this process at home, which involves a hot pan full of metal-prep that etches the steel and prevents rust formation. When the hardware has been rinsed and dried, Northwest Pony Shoppe suggests soaking it in WD-40 or similar penetrating lubricant. This isn’t a permanent solution to bolt rust. However, it gets your restoration off to a good start.
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Brake/Clutch Pedal Support Tip
Reduce Heat, Make Quiet
• BRUCE COUTURE, MODERN DRIVELINE, CALDWELL, IDAHO A recent visit to Modern Driveline’s suburban Boise, Idaho, shop yielded the benefits of installing a roller bearing pedal support. Whether you are opting for your Mustang’s original Z-bar clutch release, a cable clutch, or a stateof-the-art hydraulic clutch system, these easy-to-install Scott Drake pedal support roller bearings reduce friction and improve load distribution, making clutch and brake pedal operation easier.
• TERRY SIMPSON, THE RESTOMOD SHOP, STOCKTON, CALIFORNIA When your classic Mustang restoration is freshly painted, yet still in the raw, now is the time to install an insulating noisereduction system, such as Dynamat, Hush Mat, or any similar products. Sound deadening reduces road noise and keeps exhaust heat underneath the vehicle where it belongs. Noise reduction begins with stick-on sound deadening, then the padding shown here. This is a great investment in your restoration because it will deliver a new level of quiet when you hit the road.
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Use Fuel Injection Hose
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Strip Tease
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There used to be a time when you could walk into any auto-parts store and buy fuel hose for your classic carbureted Mustang. Because today’s fuels have harsh additives, especially in California, it is strongly suggested you use high-pressure fuel-injection hose on your restoration to reduce the risk of leakage and fire.
Classic Mustang door weatherstripping is fitted with these convenient pop-in clips that make installation a snap, but weatherstripping can work itself loose over time and use. These rubber and felt weatherstrips are equipped with a sheet-metal screw at one end, but they need to be fitted with a small countersunk sheet-metal screw at both ends to keep them secure. Try this on your next weatherstrip install and see how well it works.
Don’t Forget to White
Press, Don’t Pound
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Reproduction instrument bezels from California Mustang make dated clusters look like new. If you want even brighter instrument lighting, opt for a couple coats of flat white paint inside the cluster for optimum results.
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A lot of us tend to pound door panel clips during installation, but it only serves to damage and distort the panel. Install the water shield, then carefully line up all clips with the holes and gently press into place.
26 MUST-SEE RESTORATI0N TIPS
A Better Mount
Dress to Impress
• MUSTANGS, ETC. ,VAN NUYS, CALIFORNIA One Mustang engineering issue early in its history was noise, vibration, and harshness from the marque’s petite Falcon style V-8 engine mounts. Ford engineers dealt with this issue by replacing the original bayonet-style engine mounts with a new broader surface, revised engine mount early in the 1966 model year. Opt for 1966 or 1968-1970 289/302 small-block V-8 brackets and mounts for your 19641/21965 Mustang and enjoy the improved harmonics. Reproduction 1966/1968-1970 enginemount brackets are available from National Parts Depot for your first-generation small-block Mustang. Where it gets tricky is the stand-alone 1967 only 289ci V-8 engine mount and bracket, which was a different angle than 1966 and 1968-1970. They also fit the 1967 Mustang, if you want to escape the limitations of the 1967 mount.
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• NORTHWEST PONY SHOPPE, SNOHOMISH, WASHINGTON Great restorations result from close attention to pesky little details. When we were working with the Northwest Pony Shoppe on an engine-compartment detailing many years ago, they demonstrated the difference between an average detailing and a great one. Slag from factory welding technique need not remain, nor does lead. File or grind ragged edges smooth when you’re preparing the surface for primer and paint and see the difference.
Slip Slidin’ it On…
Easy Service Drain Plug
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When you’re replacing side-window plate glass, use a bowl of soapy water on the rubber and glass to make the going easier. The soapy water dries and the glass is secure.
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• JGM PERFORMANCE ENGINEERING, VALENCIA, CALIFORNIA When restored Mustangs sit and become weekend drivers, they need even more frequent cooling-system maintenance. That means, fresh coolant every two to three years, hence the need for a drain cock like this in place of the block plugs. Another suggestion is the use of Evans Non-Aqueous coolant from Summit Racing Equipment. Evans coolant never has to be replaced and corrosion becomes a thing of the past. If you use Evans coolant, don’t mix in water, just pure Evans coolant.
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Jet Hot, Keep Like New
Sizzle in the Steak
Ever wonder what to do with rusty exhaust manifolds and other really hot engine parts? Jet Hot Coatings offers this ceramic coating for hot manifolds and headers in a variety of colors, including cast iron, which prevents rust and never burns off. It stays like new and never loses its luster. You can ceramic coat any or all of your engine, transmission, and driveline parts, which makes them easy to keep clean.
• NORTHWEST PONY SHOPPE, SNOHOMISH, WASHINGTON Spice up a restoration with optional Mustang trim appointments, such as rear deck lid molding (Exterior Décor Group) on a 1967 Mustang hardtop or convertible deck lid. Ditto for a 1965 Mustang hood’s leading edge and rocker moldings on a Mustang not already so equipped. These are affordable upgrades you may add during a restoration that put sizzle in the steak.
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26 MUST-SEE RESTORATI0N TIPS
Let’s Get it Right
Bolster Seating
• NORTHWEST PONY SHOPPE, SNOHOMISH, WASHINGTON When it’s time to lay down engine color, you want to get it right. There are two Ford Blue colors used on classic Mustang small-block V-8 engines—a light Robin’s Egg Blue on 19641/2 260ci V-8s only and Dark Ford Corporate Blue, which came with the 1966 model year on all Ford engines. Dark Ford Corporate Blue was used on all Ford engines through the early 1980s.
• ROBERT ROUGH, LANCASTER AUTO INTERIORS, LANCASTER, CA If you’re seeking comfort and good looks, fatten up your upholstery plan and stuff as much padding as possible into your Mustang’s seating. Added bolstering adds richness to a classic Mustang interior and more padding between your posterior and the seat frame. Another option is TMI Product’s Sport Seat, which really ramps up the richness.
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SOURCES Andrews Powder Coating (818) 700-1030 powdercoater.com
California Mustang (800) 775-0101 cal-mustang.com
Classic Tube (800) 882-3711 classictube.com
Dave Stribling Restorations
Wrap it, Protect it, Admire it Always • TERRY SIMPSON, THE RESTOMOD SHOP, STOCKTON, CALIFORNIA We’ve always wrapped wiring harnesses in electrical tape, but that’s so yesterday. Painless Performance offers two types of wire wrap: PowerBraid, as shown here, and ClassicBraid, a period-style harness wrap for classic cars. Whether you choose PowerBraid or ClassicBraid, the result will make your restoration stunning.
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Powdercoat for Life • SCOTT ANDREWS, ANDREWS POWDER COATING, CHATSWORTH, CA Performed properly and in the correct colors, powdercoating weaves durability and good looks into your restoration. You can powdercoat nearly any component or trim item in nearly any color and never have to fear chipping or fading. Yes, powdercoating costs more than paint, but it will outlast paint by a wide margin.
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(765) 362-1967 davestriblingrestorations.com
JGM Performance Engineering (661) 257-0101
Lancaster Auto Interiors (661) 968-7111
Modern Driveline (208) 453-9800 moderndriveline.com
Mustangs Etc. (818) 787-7639 mustangsetc.com
National Parts Depot
A Windshield Without Leaks or Mess • TERRY SIMPSON, THE RESTOMOD SHOP, STOCKTON, CALIFORNIA There are many different approaches to windshield and backlite replacement, but only one right way. Use a flexible, permanently pliable classic windshield sealant between the glass and rubber. When the glass and rubber have settled into the frame with a full lip wrapped around the inside, apply a heavy bead of sealer around the outside perimeter of the rubber between rubber and body. Be certain the sealer fills all the voids. For extra measure, run a bead of sealer around the rubber seal again between the glass and rubber.
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(800) 521-6104 MI (800) 874-7595 FL (800) 368-6451 NC (800) 235-3445 CA npdlink.com
Northwest Pony Shoppe (360) 668-3328
Summit Racing Equipment (800) 230-3030 summitracing.com
The Restomod Shop (209) 942-3013 therestomodshop.com
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W
alking through Ken Nagel’s car collection in Illinois, my eyes locked on a flawless Candy Apple Red 1968 Shelby G.T. 500KR convertible, and I stopped dead in my tracks. Nestled among several convertibles from the 1950s and 1960s was this sparkling Shelby. Nagel picked up my body language and seemed to know the Shelby had reached out and grabbed me. “Want to see under the hood?” he asked smiling.
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Before me was an amazingly clean engine bay containing a stunning 428 Cobra Jet engine. Someone had taken a great deal of time during the restoration to make it look factory fresh. Suddenly, I noticed the air-conditioning compressor. I blurted, “Does it have factory air conditioning?” Nagel nodded. “Yes, it’s one of six with factoryinstalled A/C.” The car was a rare
M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
bird, indeed. According to its Marti Report, this 1968 Shelby G.T. 500KR had been scheduled for production at Ford’s Metuchen, New Jersey, assembly plant on May 21, 1968. However, the convertible rolled off the assembly line on May 23, two days later. After a trip
to Ionia, Michigan, for the Shelby treatment, it was shipped to Jim Aikey Ford in Des Plaines, Illinois. According to the Marti Report in 1968:
FEATURESTORY
{
}
All Hail
Al Rogers T E X T & P H O T O S
G.T. 500KR CONVERTIBLE
THE KING OF THE ROAD
A trip to Ken Nagel’s Muscle Car Museum in Plano, Illinois, changes course when we get Snake Bitten
J U LY 2 0 1 6
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ALL HAIL THE KING
{
}
G.T. 500KR CONVERTIBLE
• 4,451 Shelbys were produced • Of the total G.T. 500 KRs produced, 318 were convertibles (some sources cite 518) • 267 were fitted with four-speed manual transmissions • 43 were finished in Candy Apple Red paint • 38 had Black Décor Bucket Seat interiors • 25 had white convertible tops
• Of those, six came with air conditioning (all identical) • One of the six was shipped to a dealer in the Midwest • This is that one car The story of Nagel’s G.T. 500KR convertible begins with the phrase, Once upon a time…. A time when brute horsepower, straight ahead speed, and muscle ruled the streets of America. As a quick history
lesson, Ford introduced the most powerful Shelby Mustang ever at the 1967 New York Auto Show. Meanwhile, the automobile world viewed the 1967 model as the beginning of the end for Shelby American, and its future building highperformance Mustangs in cooperation with Ford Motor Company. A short time after the introduction of the 1967 Shelby G.T.
“THE LUCKY FEW WHO’VE HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO SPEND TIME WITH KEN NAGEL AND HIS CAR COLLECTION WOULD CERTAINLY AGREE HE ONLY ALLOWS THE BEST OF THE BEST TO ENTER THE DOORS OF HIS COLLECTION.”
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500, cost, production, and quality concerns mounted and turned the G.T. 500 into a marketing nightmare for Ford Motor Company. In May 1967, the Californiabased Shelby operation was closed. On August 18, 1967, a small crew of staff members, including engineers, was sent to Ionia, Michigan. The 1968 Shelby Cobra G.T. 500KR was a mid-year introduction, based on the 1968 Shelby G.T. 500. Ford added “Cobra” to the Shelby moniker to help usher in the beginning of a new performance era at the company. The Cobra name referred to the new 428 Cobra Jet V-8 engine fitted under the KR’s fiberglass hood. It was an engine designed to vault the Mustang to the head of the pack. Ford Motor Company rated the horsepower at 335 (reportedly, grossly underrated it) with 440 pound-feet of torque.
The “KR” stood for “King of the Road.” It was an aggressive marketing move by Carroll Shelby, who had learned the Chevrolet Division at General Motors was preparing to unleash a marketing campaign that called the 1968 Corvette the “King of the Road.” After a quick copyright search, the Shelby team found “KR” and “King of the Road” had not been copyrighted. Stickers, graphics, photos, and decals were quickly made by Shelby and his team and placed on the new G.T. 500, thus, the Shelby Cobra G.T. 500KR was born. Nagel found this flawless KR convertible in Chicago, not far from the dealership that originally sold it. He stumbled upon it while attending the World of Wheels car show at the McCormick Center in Chicago during 2007. He couldn’t put the car out of his mind and left the car show determined find the owner and make an offer to buy it. More than two years later, his plan finally came to fruition. He obtained the owner’s contact information and phoned him about purchasing the car. The owner, Dennis Neva, informed Nagel that it was indeed for sale.
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ALL HAIL THE KING
{
Neva had gotten the car from the original owner more than two decades earlier. Unfortunately, it had spent its entire life in Illinois and needed restoration. Neva did a full nut-and-bolt rotisserie restoration using N.O.S. and custom hand-fabricated parts. Nagel does his research and uses a methodical approach before making a new purchase for his classic car collection. Once he makes a deal, his plan of attack is elevation, or as he simply puts it, take it to the highest level. Rarely will he purchase an automobile turnkey and not follow his tried and true plan. Once in a while, one comes along requiring minimal work and just a small amount of detailing, such was the case with this car. Due to its high level of restoration, nothing was required for the car to join Nagel’s fleet. It sits at the entrance to the collection, the perfect place to immediately grab people’s attention. The lucky few who’ve had the opportunity to spend time with Ken Nagel and his collection would certainly agree; he only allows the best of the best to be in his collection. He sets the bar high, and his classic collection is World Class with its layout and top-shelf automobiles. You can find out more about Ken Nagel’s Classic Cars at KenNagelClassic Cars.com.
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G.T. 500KR CONVERTIBLE
M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
Jim Smart T E X T & P H O T O S
HOW-TO
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BRAKE SWAP
}
Six Disc Brake Swap = Five-Lug! PLAN FOR SAFETY, BETTER BRAKING, AND FIVE-XLUG PERFORMANCE BUCKING THE V-8 TREND IN A CLASSIC MUSTANG, what if you happen to want an inline six? At Mustang Monthly, we like six-poppers for their underdog demeanor and buzzy persona. A six-in-a-row rocks with endless possibilities, and let’s face it, most folks have a V-8. Not everyone has a six and that makes it more unique. For one thing, six-cylinder Mustangs need not suffer from sloppy handling or inadequate braking. They have good weight distribution because
there’s less iron in front. Let’s look at how to make a six-cylinder Mustang safer. Between handling and braking, let’s first look at the most important of the two elements—braking. Brake safety begins with V-8 spec components, such as 1967 to 1970 spindles, which are thicker and stronger than 1965 to 1966 six-cylinder spindles. Small six-cylinder spindles won’t stand up to the torture of a canyon pass or road-race course. Another issue is four-lug wheels, which are limited in scope with little available from the aftermarket for a six-cylinder Mustang. Finally, if you want really effective disc brakes for your six-cylinder Mustang you’re going to need disc brakes you can count on. That means going to a five-lug system. We recently visited with Mustangs & Fast Fords OC (MFFOC) while the company was doing a front-disc brake and five-lug conversion. One of their customers with a 1968 six-cylinder Mustang wanted more effective braking, and they opted for four-piston V-8 disc brakes from MFFOC along with the corresponding five-lug conversion. MFFOC carried out the disc-brake swap, along with a rear axle flange five-lug conversion. Here’s how you can get there, too.
01
MFFOC has its own in-house front disc brake kit for classic Mustangs, which is a four-piston affair like you would see from 1965 to 1967. This is a nice kit that includes a power booster and a dual master cylinder with pressure differential and proportioning valves for greater safety and more effective braking. Everything is here to get the job done.
02
Classic Mustang drum brakes are notorious for their ineffectiveness. Six-cylinder drum brakes add insult to injury because they are doubly ineffective. We’re going to pull these worn-out drum brakes, fit this Mustang with front discs, and do a five-lug conversion. This is a 1968 Mustang drum brake with the spindle that we need for a disc-brake swap.
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03
04
05
06
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Drum brake backing plates are secured with four fine-thread bolts. A 9/16-inch socket fits these bolts.
The caliper bracket and dust shield are positioned and secured, as shown. Caliper brackets are positioned toward the front of the vehicle.
Once these bolts are removed, the entire drum brake assembly is taken off. You don’t have to disassemble the brake, simply remove the brake assembly and discard it.
Spindles should be dressed with emery cloth to remove fine irregularities and score the surface for adequate bearing security.
The fine-thread disc brake spindle bolts get a thread locker for safety and are torqued to 35 to 45 ft/lbs. The bolt heads should face toward the rotor.
Once installed, check the bearings for smooth fit and security. Excessive play is cause for spindle replacement.
NO!!! GREASING AXLE SPINDLES Among the many popular brake job myths, the first is you need to coat axle spindles with wheel bearing grease. Not true! We get arguments on this one, but wheel bearings must be secure on your Mustang’s front spindles. The bearing races should not turn on the spindles. This means you want metal-to-metal contact and solid security when the castle nut is torqued.
09
Q Here’s a good example of what not to do during a brake job. Never apply wheel-bearing grease to spindles or inner bearing races. You want bearing security, which comes from solid bearing contact. Some people argue this point and cite corrosion concerns. If you have a healthy bearing cap and axle seal, corrosion should never be a concern.
Clean the brake rotor surfaces thoroughly with a high-evaporative solvent like brake cleaner or lacquer thinner prior to installation. Also, keep surfaces free of skin oil, which means handling them by their edges.
10
When you install brake rotors make sure bearings are secured first, then spin the rotor and check for smoothness of rotation. Tighten the spindle nut to 17 to 25ft-lbs while spinning the rotor to seat the bearings. Then, back off one half turn and snug the castle nut to 10 to15in-lbs. Do not overtighten. J U LY 2 0 1 6
35
SIXDISCBRAKESWAP
NO!!! SECURING A CASTLE NUT
Q There’s always confusion on how to safely secure a castle nut. This is a demonstration of how not to secure a castle nut, MFFOC advises. Although this cotter pin will stay, this is not the best method.
Q This is the proper way to secure a spindle’s castle nut. The short leg of the cotter pin goes straight through, uncut, with the long leg wrapped around the spindle’s end, as shown. This way, there’s less chance of interference with the dust cap.
11
Four-piston brake calipers are installed next. Use a thread locker on bolt threads and torque to 45 to 50ft-lbs.
13
Brake pad retainers are installed next. Tighten the bolts to 7 to 9ft-lbs.
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M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
14
Q Dust-cap installation without damage is doable using a segment of exhaust pipe correctly sized for your Mustang’s dust caps. Any auto parts’ store will stock the size you need.
12
Apply Permatex’s Disc Brake Quiet to the back of your brake pads, which stops the unnecessary brake noise associated with disc brakes. Avoid getting any Disc Brake Quiet on friction surfaces.
When you perform your disc brake and five-lug conversion, opt for new pre-formed brake lines from Classic Tube. Reusing old brake lines is courting trouble. Classic Tube makes it easy with all the lines pre-formed and ready to go.
15
The completed four-piston retro-style disc brake upgrade is ready for operation. This is a nice piece available from MFFOC for not much money. Slotted rotors vent heat and friction related gas off and minimize fade.
FIVE-LUG CONVERSION Five-lug rotors automatically come with the front disc brake conversion. However, unless you’re planning a Ford 8- or 9-inch rear axle transplant, you’re going to need to modify your six-cylinder rear axle flanges to five-lug. What’s more, this is an easy conversion for nearly any reputable machine shop to do, or you can ship your axles to MFFOC to have them perform this easy modification.
16
Axles are positioned in a four-lug jig, as shown, and set up for conversion. One of the four lug holes is used as a reference point for spot-on accuracy. Holes are sized for a tight interference fit.
17
The new holes are beveled for easy lug stud installation.
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New lug studs are pressed into place using a hydraulic press. mothers.com • detailguide.com facebook.com/mothersusa
SIXDISCBRAKESWAP
19
Brake drums get the same treatment. The drum is set up, as shown, and drilled following the same procedure.
20
Voila! Five-lug drum brakes for the 7.5-inch integral carrier six-cylinder axle shaft.
22 21
MFFOC begins thread chasing the firewall nut plates for easier fastener installation.
We’re installing a new brake pressure differential valve and switch, which eliminates any brake hydraulic system concerns. It is suggested you replace all steel brake lines with pre-formed galvanized or stainless steel brake lines from Classic Tube. They arrive on your doorstep ready for installation. Opt for StopFlex hoses from Classic Tube while you’re replacing everything.
POWER BRAKES
23
Here’s the power-brake booster from MFFOC. We left the master cylinder out of this image to allow you to see the bracket and proportioning valve. It’s easy to access and adjust.
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M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
SOURCES
We wrap up this disc brake and five-lug conversion with power brakes and an easy-to-access proportioning valve. The power booster and dual master cylinder fit perfectly between the shock tower and firewall. Though this is a 1968 Mustang, you can apply all the same elements to a 1965 to 1966. You’ll wind up with a userfriendly classic Mustang with safer brakes and five-lug wheels for a greater choice of wheel and tire sizes.
Classic Tube (800) 882-3711 classictube.com
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FEATURESTORY
Rob Kinnan T E X T • Dominick Domato P H O T O S
{
1969 SHELBY G.T. 500 CLONE
BROWN’S BLUE R BOMBER Hot Rod Drag Week veteran Jay Brown proudly carries the FE flag, and won his class (again) in 2015 with a bad-to-the-bone SOHC in a 1969 Shelby G.T. 500 clone 40
M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
}
eaders of Mustang Monthly may not be all that familiar with Hot Rod Magazine’s Drag Week event. Perhaps the most grueling chore for any street car, Drag Week requires competitors to drive their cars to four different dragstrips in five days (starting and stopping from the same one for convenience’s sake), with roughly 250 miles between tracks. There are a bunch of classes to include as many types of cars as possible, and each class winner is the car that had the lowest cumulative ET over the course of the week.
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It’s a true torture test of fast street cars, especially when you look at the Unlimited Class, which is full of what are essentially Pro Mod cars with license plate. They have to drive, not trailer, the race car, and support vehicles are allowed. It’s also a good place to see some nice and fast Mustangs, and leading that group is no doubt Minnesota’s Jay Brown, widely considered one of the authorities on the Ford FE engines and getting power out of them. I first met Brown during the inaugural Drag Week back in 2005 when he was running a green 1969 Mach 1 with—you guessed it—an FE. He won the Big Block Naturally
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BROWN’S BLUE BOMBER
{
Aspirated (BB/NA) class that year, and has been back nearly every year. In fact, Brown might be the only guy to win his class at Drag Week in four different cars. After the Mach 1, he won Daily Driver in a 2006 Ford GT (obviously, no FE in that one, though), Modified NA in a 1964 Galaxie with a 427 SOHC, and this 1969 Shelby clone with the same basic SOHC that was in his Galaxie. Brown bought the Mustang in 2005 with the intent of back-halving it and making a Pro Street car of it, and bought the pieces to make a Shelby clone from Tony D. Branda. He did the back-half suspension work, but had a change of mind, and didn’t want the monster Pro Street tires on the car.
42
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1969 SHELBY G.T. 500 CLONE
Instead, he put it aside to concentrate on other projects like the Mach 1. “I hate to say it, but Drag Week kind of got in the way!” Brown said. “I got so pumped up about the subsequent Drag Weeks that I just kept focusing on whatever car I was taking to the next Drag Week, and I never really got a chance to finish it.” Brown won in the Galaxie in 2009, skipping Drag Week in 2010 to focus on finishing his FE book. But he had the Shelby finished for the 2011 race. “It was done but not running right,” Brown said. “We didn’t finish, and I was going to take it back the next year. But I did too many things to it at one time and didn’t get it there. In 2014, it threw a rod at the
M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
Q (Below) Purists have no fear, Jay Brown didn’t cut up a real Shelby. This one started life as a regular 1969 SportsRoof, and became a Shelby clone with parts from Tony D. Branda.
BROWN’S BLUE BOMBER
{
test and tune at Drag Week. We got it back together for 2015 and won the class.” This Mustang has been on four Drag Weeks, with three DNFs and one win. “It kind of fought me all the way, always some little thing causing trouble, but I finally got everything ironed out.” Again, the engine is the same basic one that was in the Galaxie in 2009. “It was radically worked over in terms of basic machining,” Brown said. “It’s a Shelby aluminum block that I bought from Shelby without the bores machined and no sleeves.” To get the most displacement as he could
44
}
1969 SHELBY G.T. 500 CLONE
Q These Accufab throttle bodies mount atop Jay’s intake and Ford Performance 80lb/hr injectors are in the runners, activated by a DIY/Megasquirt MS3X system. Brown built his own wheel for the distributorless crank-trigger ignition, and DIY Auto Tune’s Scott Clark operates the keyboard when it comes to tuning.
out of the 427, he had a local machine shop spread the bore centers to 4.700 inches (compared to the stock 4.63) and put in a 4.500-inch bore to take advantage of the huge valves in the SOHC heads. With that 4.500 bore and a 4.600-inch stroke, this thing pumps out 585 cubic inches, but Brown still thinks it could be bigger. “If I had it to do all over again,
M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
Q The SOHC engine now displaces 585 cubic inches with a Shelby block and noname cylinder heads. At 13.4:1 compression, you wouldn’t think it could be considered a “street motor” but that’s the beauty of EFI. Brown custom built his own cross-ram intake manifold (on his at-home CNC machine!). “The intake ports in these heads are really, really short,” he said. “A few years ago I built a conventional sheet metal intake but the [overall] runner length was way too short. This cross-ram was a challenge to build, but it picked me up 40 to 50 lb-ft of torque and at least 25hp over the old manifold.” The front suspension is a Fatman Fabrications kit that bolts to the factory lower control arms with struts that bolt into the shock towers, and uses rack-andpinion steering. Brown had to modify it quite a bit due to the extra-wide SOHC.
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ORIGINAL STYLE GAS TANKS FOR FUEL INJECTION
CPP carries a wide variety of fuel injection-ready tanks with built-in trays and appropriate fittings. These tanks require no modifications to mount. This is the best choice for adding a fuel injection-ready tank to your classic vehicle! These come as kits and include all the necessary pieces to mount to your vehicle. Pumps and sending units sold separately. starting at $255/kit
FUEL PUMP KITS 190/kit
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GAS TANK SENDING UNITS
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1964½-70 MUSTANG COIL-OVER CONVERSION SYSTEM
869/k t
Includes coil-over ho ks specially designed conical springs and all mounting hardware.
FOR 1965-70 MUSTANG
49/kit
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FOR MUSTANG, FALCON & MORE!
X-FRAME BRACE KIT starting at 299/kit
Made using round tubing that resists torsional twist better than square tube versions. The connectors are 100% bolt-in and include all mounting hardware. Subframe connectors provide resistance to chassis flex and therefore increase the integrity and rigidity of the chassis. Available in black or silver powdercoated finish. starting at $169/kit
POWER STEERING BOXES & CONVERSION KITS
CPP offers late model performance steering for your classic Mustang. Boxes are compact, lightweight, and really pack a punch! Easy bolt-on alternative. $ Boxes - starting at 379/ea Kit contents may vary. $
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Upgrade your original V8 spindles to the larger and stronger bearing pins. Kit will also upgrade 6 cylinder spindles starting at $299/kit for disc brake upgrades.
starting at
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Use in combination with CPP Subframe Connectors for added strength and stability.
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These high quality electric fuel pumps are a must for your fuel injected engines. starting at
1964-73 MUSTANG
A complete conversion kit nc d s factory style, heavy duty V sp n es performance slotted 11" r o , complete bearing and sea kit, brake hoses, dual pist n aluminum finished caliper master cylinder assemble proportioning valve kit and all attaching hardware needed.
BRAKE BOOSTER KITS
Eliminate the factory strut rods while incorporating a full lower "A" arm and tie the frame rails together. Allows vehicle to maintain alignment. Available for 1965-70 Mustang & 1961-65 Falcon, in gloss-black or silver powdercoated finish.
309/kit
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Lower-starting at
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HEAVY DUTY 31 SPLINE AXLES Bolts directly in, with 5x4.5 bolt circle and 1/2” wheel studs. Custom widths available. Third Members and brake $ kits sold separately. starting at 1049/kit
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If you have a leaf-spring car, we have a set of bars for you. For daily driven cars to 8-second outlaw cars.
FOR 1964-70 FORD MUSTANG APPLICATIONS
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$
REAR
ALL PARTS ALSO SOLD SEPARATELY FRONT
WILWOOD REAR WHEEL BRAKE KITS
CUTTING EDGE DISC BRAKE TECHNOLOGY
These kits provide Big Brake stopping power and are the perfect compliment to wheel, tire, and suspension system upgrades. 13" kits use the Superlite 4R 4 piston caliper and 12" kits use the Dynalyte 4 piston caliper. All kits contain e-brakes. Will not work with factory full size
rear ends. Rotor finish may vary. Stainless steel braided hose kit sold separately. 12" Rotor - starting at $752/kit
STANDARD AND PRO-TOURING SWAY BAR KITS
MUSTANG I IFS TRUE INDEPENDENT PERFORMANCE SYSTEM These kits come with crossmember, coil springs, spindles, 11-3/4" diameter rotor performance brakes, gas shocks, upper & lower control arms, new power rack & pinion, sway bar, forged hubs and our Big Bore™ calipers, plus mounting hardware. Available in 4.5 and 4.75 lug patterns.
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stock height and lowered coil springs. Sold in pairs and come black powdercoated finish. staring at $105/pr
Ready to adapt into your stock Ford wiring and accept your stock Ford steering wheel. Come with turn signal and 4-way flashers. starting at $406/ea
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BILLET HOOD HINGES
Comes complete with stainless steel gas struts and mounting hardware. Available in plain, black or polished.
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The ultimate combination of polyurethane and graphite. Improved with components designed to prevent The first for performance and durability; the second for bumpsteer. Required when installing CPP 400 Series™ superior lubricating qualities which starting at $279/kit Box in your original P/S Falcon or Mustang. provides smooth operation.
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Prices subject to change without notice. Please note that kits and prices may vary between certain applications.
BROWN’S BLUE BOMBER
{
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1969 SHELBY G.T. 500 CLONE
Q We ask Brown about the hood scoop. “It’s too bad it has to look like that. I didn’t want to have that big of a scoop on the car,” he said. “With that motor and intake, though, I’m right at the top of the scoop with the throttle bodies, so it’s necessary.” The scoop was a basic fiberglass scoop from Summit Racing that one of his friends made narrower and taller. The top of the scoop has a removable panel with Dzus fasteners that comes out when he’s on the track and allows the engine to breathe through a screen (similar to those on the 1969-1970 Shelby scoops). It goes back in for road miles and to keep rain out of the throttle bodies.
I’d have gone all the way to a 4.75 stroke. I’m pretty sure I can make that fit, and it would get me over 600 cubes, which just for bragging rights would have been kind of cool.” The SOHC heads are what Brown calls no-name heads (which apparently have a long and not-sogood story associated with them) that flow 445cfm on the intake ports and maintain the hemispherical combustion chambers. A custom grind from Billy Godbold at Comp Cams works with T&D rockers to pop open those valves, and Brown’s own crossram intake manifold (the
46
dude has CNC machines at home!) mounts two four-barrel Accufab fuelinjection throttle bodies run by a DIY Auto Tune/ Megasquirt MS3X system. The engine makes 830lbft of torque at 5,100rpm and 992hp at 6,700. “My greatest disappointment last summer was that no matter what I did to that thing, I couldn’t make it produce 1,000 horsepower,” Brown said. “I must have made 20 dyno pulls trying different things just to get a little more than 992hp, but it just wouldn’t do it.” Brown is a naturally aspirated guy, so a power adder never entered the
M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
BROWN’S BLUE BOMBER
{
conversation. It doesn’t matter, though. The car has run a best ET of 8.88 seconds and hit 150mph at Great Lakes Dragway, which finally justified the parachute he hung off the back of the car. The week was surprisingly trouble-free, with one burned up rocker arm and a minor wiring issue, and Brown estimates he got between 7 and 8mpg with 4.29:1 gears and a Gear Vendors overdrive unit. “It’s a pretty comfortable road car. At 65mph, it’s only 2,500rpm, not horrible by any stretch of the imagination,” Brown said. What’s up for the 2016 Drag Week? “I hate taking the same car back to Drag Week. I’ve won with four different cars, and running
48
}
1969 SHELBY G.T. 500 CLONE
this one again seems like I’m beating a dead horse. But there’s no time to put anything else together.” He’s thinking of pulling the engine as we write this and trying out another set of heads. However, we’ll wait until Day One
M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
of Drag Week to see what he ends up doing. The goal is consistent 8.50s but he’s drawing the line at lightening the car with Lexan windows and a full 8.49-legal cage. “I’m getting too old to crawl through those things,” he said.
Q The rearend is all Mark Williams parts, with 40-spline axles and 4.29:1 gears. Brown is swapping to 4.11 gears because as it sits, the car goes through the top end speed traps at 7,700rpm, which according to him, is not where that motor produces most of its power. The tires are 10.5x31-15 Hoosiers.
COO LING
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9 98 E1
1965-70
1964-66 Mustang
1967-68 Mustang
ELECTRIC FAN ASSEMBLIES 1965-70 Mustangs
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BROWN’S BLUE BOMBER
{
}
1969 SHELBY G.T. 500 CLONE
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Q Brown still has all his Drag Week-winning cars. Clockwise from top left is the Galaxie (2009 Modified NA), Mach 1 (2005 BB/NA), this Shelby clone, and the Ford GT (2006 Daily Driver). Wouldn’t you like to have all these in your driveway?
Q After driving almost trouble-free for a week over about 1,300 miles on public roads, Brown still ran 8.80s at almost 150mph on Drag Week.
Get his Book Want a deeper look into Jay Brown’s mind when it comes to FE engines? Get his book, The Great FE Intake Comparo: Systematic Dyno Testing in Pursuit of FE Horsepower, direct from his website at FEPower.net.
Mark Houlahan T E X T & P H O T O S
HOW-TO
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VHX DIRECT-FIT
}
Instrumental Swap
KNOW WHAT’S GOING ON IN YOUR ENGINE BY USING THE VHX DIRECT-FIT INSTRUMENT CLUSTER ASSEMBLY FOR THE 1965 MUSTANG SADLY, NONE OF US ARE GETTING ANY YOUNGER, AND THAT GOES FOR YOUR BELOVED VINTAGE MUSTANGS, TOO. There’s a reason the restomod movement has been so popular during last two decades. Restomodding a vintage Mustang so it has better handling and braking, as well as comfort and safety upgrades, allows you to enjoy your Mustangs even more. If you enjoy driv-
01
In addition to the main Dakota Digital VHX pre-assembled gauge package, each VHX system includes its control box, oil pressure, and temperature sensors; an electronic speed sensor; sensor wiring; and full instructions for programming and installation.
54
M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
ing your Mustang more because it’s safer and more comfortable, you’ll want to take it out more and hit the cruise nights and car shows. That is what we all want, isn’t it, to enjoy our vintage Mustangs? One of the problematic areas of first-generation Mustangs, we as owners, have been trying to improve upon are the woefully dim side-illuminated instruments in the Mustang’s dash. Besides being dimly lit and hard to read, many of these gauge’s measurements are merely suggestions due to their varying rates of accuracy (leaning towards the highly inaccurate end of that scale). And some simply no longer work at all (cough—ammeter—cough) or weren’t part of the original factory gauge package (cough—tachometer—cough). Over the years, owners have tried LED light bulbs, add-on gauges like the steering-column mounted tach, or the auto part’s store threegauge-panel setup under the dash (where they’re so easy to read while driving, right?). However, these are just Band-Aids on what essentially needs to be an easy-to-install, complete gauge replacement that incorporates modern gauge technology with easy-to-see backlit gauge faces.
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INSTRUMENTALSWAP
{
VHX DIRECT-FIT
Several years ago, the folks at Dakota Digital, the company famous for its vacuum fluorescent digital gauge packages, including direct replacement Mustang systems, developed their VHX line of replacement instruments. The VHX system was designed from the start to be a direct-replacement gauge panel that boasts all the essential gauges for monitoring your Mustang. This includes through-thedial back lighting, settable warning
}
02
This is the current set up in this 1965 hardtop. Stock gauges with an iffy temperature gauge, oil pressure and alternator idiot lights, and an owner-installed mini-tach on the steering column. Time to kiss all this goodbye!
03
Disconnect the battery before proceeding. You can remove the factory gauge cluster by removing the Phillips head screws surrounding the perimeter of the gauge bezel. Removing the steering wheel is optional, but we’ve always found it helpful when working on the dash or gauges.
04
With a shop towel or other form of protection on the steering column tube, lift the gauge cluster up and tilt it forward to access the speedometer cable, wiring, and bulbs on the rear of the assembly. Disconnect all wiring from the gauge assembly and remove the assembly.
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INSTRUMENTALSWAP
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VHX DIRECT-FIT
}
systems, electronic speedometer with trip odometer, built-in tachometer, and a slew of warning indicators for those with EFI systems, cruise control, and other such add-ons. The VHX system launched with a 1965 to 1966 five-dial gauge cluster setup, and later, the 1967 to 1968, 1969 to 1970, and 1971 to 1973 dash layouts were added to the option list. Dakota Digital even has VHX packages for Fox Mustangs. However, those 1965 Mus-
05
You will need the original screws that retain the gauge assembly to the gauge bezel to secure the new Dakota Digital VHX assembly to your bezel. Remove these and set the old gauge assembly aside.
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06
The new Dakota Digital VHX system for the 1965 Mustang (and early Falcon and Ranchero) comes out of the box as a complete assembly. All you must do is remove the protective plastic from the gauge lenses. We’re using a new bezel from Scott Drake here, and you can even order new bezel mounting screws, if you like, so you don’t have to take your stock gauge assembly apart.
Also available with technology
Our very hot Flame-Thrower series coils are specifically engineered for our Ignitor II and Ignitor III ignitions. Choose from traditional canister style 45,000 volt coils or 60,000 volt e-core coils.
The only ignition system to provide a powerful second spark through the entire RPM range! Your distributor and coil provide the first spark, the Second Strike follows with another powerful CD spark, giving you two sparks all the way to redline! (Not compatible with Ignitor III ignitions)
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07
Carefully line up the Dakota Digital VHX assembly with the bezel (the original or replacement) and secure using the original screws that we removed earlier. Or install using new screws, if you prefer.
08
Dakota Digital provides these two angle brackets and mounting screws to replicate the metal ears on the stock gauge assembly to secure the unit on the dash. The brackets are bare metal here, which is an early production unit we’re using for installation photos. But in production kits these brackets will be powdercoated black to match the black camera case gauge bezel.
tang owners with the base, long-sweep speedometer gauge panel based off the 1964 to 1965 Falcon were out of luck if they wanted to keep that early look in their dashes. Not anymore! Recently released in the VHX line is Dakota Digital’s new Falcon, Ranchero, and 1965 Mustang system. The installation differs little from the 1965 to 1966 five-dial setup, but we felt it warranted its own how-to installation article. Check out the steps, then take a look at Dakota Digital’s different face and illumination options on its website.
MODERN STEERING CONVERSIONS 09
Dakota Digital VHX oil-pressure sensor replaces your stock single-wire unit. Locate your oil-pressure sensor—in our case, it’s on the driver’s rear of the inline-six block—and remove it.
1965–1973 MUSTANG, Now available for most applications • Easy Half-Day Bolt in Installation • No Cutting and No Welding Required • Full Turning Radius & Ground Clearance • True Modern Power Steering Feel & Feedback • Made in The USA With a 3 Year Warranty • Complete Kits or Individual Components • Manual Steering Boxes Available
10
The included sensor is installed using a provided adapter. The VHX kit includes several pipe-thread and flat-sealing washer fittings to allow easy installation of the sensors in just about any engine combination.
1965–66 Kit Shown
Find out more!!! Visit us at...www.borgeson.com
11
The water-temperature sensor uses the early-style small threads, so in our case, it threaded directly into the cylinder head’s water jacket. Borgeson Universal, 9 Krieger Dr. Travelers Rest, SC 29690 860•482•8283
INSTRUMENTALSWAP
12-13
The VHX kit includes an electronic speed sensor and drive adapter to replace the gear-driven cable of your stock speedometer. Installation is simple. First, remove your old speedometer cable from your transmission. Shown here is just the transmission end of the cable, as our aftermarket cable pulled out of the fitting during removal. Using a small pick tool or screwdriver, release the retaining clip on the speedometer driven gear and remove the gear. Transfer the gear to the drive adapter and secure with the factory clip. Lastly, thread the speed sensor onto the drive adapter, and the completed assembly is ready for installation.
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14
The assembled speed sensor simply goes right back into the transmission, as you would if installing a cable-type speedometer drive. Secure the unit to the transmission with the original retaining bolt and connect the wiring harness to the speed sensor. We routed the harness up to the firewall along the parking-brake cable route.
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M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
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The oil pressure and temperature senders are wired via the included harnesses. Simply plug them into the sensors (two wire is water, three wire is oil) and route them through the firewall to the gauge area in the dash. Because there was no longer a speedometer cable in the firewall, we installed a grommet in the factory hole and passed the wiring for the speed, oil, and water sensors through it for a clean, no-drill installation.
AMERICAN - MADE STEEL WHEELS
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16
The VHX control box is fairly compact and can be situated directly behind the gauge opening. We secured it to two dash braces via tie-wraps once wired. The wiring is straightforward. Simply strip back a small amount of insulation, place the wire end into the labeled opening on the box, and secure the wire by tightening the screw. You’ll find all the wiring you need, such as the turn signal and high beam, at the old gauge wiring. If you don’t want to cut your factory wiring, you’ll need to make up an adapter with a length of wire for each connection.
MAGNUM 500 54 Series
The Ultimate Mustang Wheel OE and Custom Fitment
17
The opposite side of the control box is where the majority of the new wiring, which is routed from the engine bay, for the speed sensor, oil pressure, and water temperature attaches. For the fuel gauge, retain the OE fuel-level sender. For 1965 to 1970 Mustangs, attach the fuel-sender ground to a solid ground like a dash brace. For the 1971 to 1973 fuel senders, it is best to use the actual ground wire from the sending unit. The box also requires a constant power source and switched power leads. Lastly, instead of using the included momentary buttons for the “SW1” and “SW2” terminals, connect the included wiring pigtail, as this model uses built-in momentary buttons in the VHX gauge assembly itself.
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18
Cover any unused original wiring from your stock gauge panel in shrink wrap and seal the end using a pair of pliers, as shown here. This will prevent shorts and possible electrical damage to other components.
•
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40
INSTRUMENTALSWAP
YEARS
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■ 1964 1/2 -1966 Mustang ■ 1967- 68 Mustang ■ 1969 -70 Mustang Every Vintage Air SureFit kit has been thoroughly engineered using as many as six examples of the applicable vehicle model to assure accurate fit in each specific classic car or truck - with absolutely minimal modifications to your vehicle. Our instruction manual will walk you through each installation step, and if you should need additional help, we have a full time technical staff ready to help. Call our product information line to discuss your Mustang project. SureFit Systems are complete with evaporator kit, new factory-look controls or our exclusive “Cable Converters” to adapt your original controls, compressor, all mounting brackets, condenser kit, safety switch, all necessary refrigerant lines and a detailed instruction m a n u a l . SureFit systems can be ordered to fit engine swaps in many applications and can be upgraded with Vintage Air ProLine appearance accessories as well.
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21
Before mounting the VHX gauge assembly into the Mustang’s dash, turn the ignition key to the “On” position and verify the gauges move, illumination works, and other features work. If something is amiss, double check all wiring at the control box, especially your constant and switched power leads and the ground to the control box.
Introducing The Latest Evolution In Classic Car Audio SLIDEBAR 67-73 Mustang. Original look, original fit, but all new modern technology!
19
Once the wiring connections are completed, reconnect the battery. Verify that the status LED on the corner of the control box blinks every couple of seconds. This indicates the box is receiving constant power. When you turn the ignition switch to “ON,” the LED should blink faster, verifying the box is seeing switched power now.
From This
20
Turn the key back off and connect the harness for the momentary switches to the back of the VHX gauge assembly. Follow that with the connection of the CAT5 communications cable between the control box and the VHX gauge assembly, as well.
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INSTRUMENTALSWAP
22 THANK YOU FOR SUPPORTING OUR ADVERTISERS
Once mounted in the dash using the stock gauge mounting screws, the two built-in momentary buttons (where the stock odometer used to reside) can be used to calibrate the speedometer, set up the tachometer, program the clock, adjust the illumination brightness, and much, much more. The VHX system has plenty of features, so take your time getting to know how they all work and set your VHX system up to your liking.
23
We finished up rather late in the evening, as evidenced by the clock setting, but it was a good opportunity to show the through-the-dial illumination that makes the VHX system so easy to read. Not to mention, the Mustang now has full instrumentation without having a bunch of add-on gauges, and the look is extremely clean, almost stock looking dare we say!
64
M U S T A N G M O N T H LY.C O M
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Dakota Digital (800) 593-4160 dakotadigital.com
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SummitRacing.com
SummitRacing.com
J U LY 2 0 1 6
65
RESTOROUNDUP
Bob Perkins T E X T
{
RESTORATION QUESTIONS
}
FORD 8-TRACK ACCESSORY
D W
DATE CODED GLASS SOURCE e are restoring a 1970 Mustang Mach1 for a client. They have the build sheet and window sticker. We need to know if there is supposed to be a date code on the door glass? To be in compliance with Mustang Club of America rules do the windows need to have the “Ford” in script or oval? Craig Valenti, Valenti Classics, Inc. Franklin, Wisconsin
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1970 GRILLE COLOR am restoring my 1970 Mustang Mach 1. What is the proper color for the grille and sport lamp bezels? The current grille is painted an Argent Grey, yet some research and Mustang print ads I have found from the 1970s indicate the grille came as black. Could you confirm the proper color for the grille and sport lamp bezels? I currently have a “Ford Tooling” grille on order and would like to get the color right the first time. Your help would be greatly appreciated. Greg Lenuik St. Albert, Alberta, Canada The 1970 Mustang grille, both the D0ZZ-8200-A and D0ZZ-8200-B (Mach 1) grilles, were finished in Dark Charcoal Metallic. The new grilles are molded in black plastic and come unpainted. You should paint the grille for it to be correct. National Parts Depot offers a good color match in an easy to use and apply aerosol spray can under part number AP-GPA.
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Door glass for the 1970 Mustang uses the “Carlite” script with date codes, often many months before the date codes found on the sheet metal. In addition, the logo is marked with “Sun-X” for tinted glass. P&S Auto Glass in Janesville, Wisconsin, sells reproduction glass with the Carlite logo and date codes. They can be reached at (608) 756-9557.
o you happen to have a copy of the installation instructions for the 1966 8-track tape storage bin accessory? I found a very nice original one at the Hershey swap meet last fall for my Mustang, but I have not figured out how to mount it to the dash. I was hoping you might be able to share the instruction sheet or photos of it installed. Thanks! Gerald Herman New Castle, Pennsylvania The accessory unit’s original installation was via a length of 2-inch-wide double-sided tape that was pre-installed on the storage unit, as the image we’re providing here illustrates. If the original doublesided tape is missing from a previous installation or has dried up and lacks adhesive, you can replicate the original mounting with new double-sided foam tape found at any auto-supply or hardware store. Installation was at the owner’s discretion, so you could find these mounted just about anywhere on the bottom lip of the dash. There’s no set or specific location. Hope this helps!
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BEYONDTHEBASICS
Dave Stribling TEXT
CASTER/CAMBER TOOL EXPLAINED
a dial with eight segments representing one-eighth degree each. Once the wheel is pointing straight, zero up the gauge, and mount it vertically to the hub (you can use another bubble gauge to check the vertical). Rotate the dial until the bubble centers and count the segments on the dial. Clockwise is positive camber; counterclockwise is negative camber. If you went four segments counterclockwise, you are at a one-half degree negative camber. The caster measurement is determined by checking how much rotation you have between 20 degrees turned in (about one revolution of the steering wheel in most cars) and 20 degrees out. After leveling and zeroing the gauge 20 degrees in, move the wheels back to straight, and move them out 20 degrees. Set the gauge back to vertical and see how many revolutions it takes to center the bubble, then you multiply this by 1.5 to get your caster setting. For instance, if it took 1 1⁄2 revolutions clockwise, it would be 1.5 x 1.5 = 2.25 degrees of positive caster. There are fancier tools that do the same thing, but this inexpensive little tool is a great addition to your toolbox.
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n the January 2016 “Beyond the Basics” column on page 82 in the letter titled “Bumpsteer Bugs,” there is a photo of an alignment tool being used. I would appreciate it if you could share some info about that tool, such as the maker and where to purchase it. Neil Oliver Via the Internet
This is a hub-style caster/ camber alignment tool I picked up from Speedway Motors (www. speedwaymotors.com, PN 91082610). It is an inexpensive way to set the caster and camber on your car. I use it to get the setting close before I take the car to have it aligned. It works great. To check the camber, you need the car level, the suspension at the static ride height, and the wheels pointing straight ahead. (I’m cheating in the photo and using my lift to get the shot.) The gauge has a couple magnetic mounts that attach to the hub, and you usually have to pull the dust cap. There is a small bubble level in the gauge and
VINTAGE TECH ADVICE
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FUEL LEVEL SENDER DIFFERENCES
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an I run a 1969 Mustang fuel sender in my 1970 Mustang? The part’s place says these parts are different, but I believe they are the same. I have a 1969 sender just sitting around that I could use in my 1970 Mustang, if they are indeed the same. Marco (last name withheld) Via the Internet
The sending units for ’69 and ’70 are different. The gas tank in ’69 has a 20-gallon capacity, while the ’70 holds 22 gallons. The ’69 is deeper and taller than the ’65 to ’68 tank, and the ’70 is deeper and taller than the ’69. Because the tank is deeper, the arm on a ’70 sending unit is about 6 1⁄8-inches long, while the ’69 sending unit is just under 6-inches long at 5 7⁄8 (ish). This means if you try to run the ’69 sender in your ’70, the sending unit it’s going to bottom out too soon, and you will think you are out of gas. Better to just go ahead and buy a new sending unit and save the ’69 sending unit for your next project.
Q (Above) Compare the 1969 and 1970 fuel sending units. Note the slightly longer arm on the 1970 unit on top. Original sending units come with a Cougar part number. The 1969 is PN C9WF-9275-A and the 1970 is PN D0WF-9275-A.
Q (Left) This is a hub-style caster/camber alignment tool I picked up from Speedway Motors (www.speedwaymotors.com, PN 91082610). It is an inexpensive way to set the caster and camber on your car.
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TM
1970 Boss 302 shown with 16 x 8 Legendary Magnum 500 (satin finish)
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READERS’ALBUM
SPONSORED BY
Down Under Drop-Top
A Surprise for Avery’s Dad
et another reader from Australia is living the dream of Mustang ownership. Ronnie Braine finally found the Mustang he was looking for in this 1965 convertible. It came from Colorado and was well maintained. The C-code 289 V-8 is in original condition, as well, with just 48,000 miles on it. “I drive it most weekends and just love it. When the top’s down and you’re driving on a great sunny day, there really is no better feeling,” Braine tells us. We couldn’t agree more.
very Hall’s father grew up working on Mustangs, and as a teen owned both a 1965 and 1968 fastback. About seven years ago, he pulled this 1966 Mustang hardtop out of a local junkyard for $600 and brought it back to life. “He loves driving this car back down memory lane any chance he gets!” Hall says. “My dad gets your magazine every month and I would love to surprise him by seeing this car in the Readers’ Album!” We’re happy to oblige, Avery.
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A
Christine Lives
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eisa and Pete Wright of Whitewater, Colorado, named this 1966 Mustang hardtop “Christine” because of all the cuts and scrapes they have gotten putting her together. Leisa learned to drive in a 1966 Mustang and had always wanted one for a daily driver. When her husband found this Mustang six years ago, which had a body in great shape, but needed restoration, they jumped on it. They completely stripped the car down, and it was finally painted Black Cherry with cream stripes after bouncing between several painters. The interior was freshened up with new seat upholstery in Emberglo and Parchment, while under the hood you can find a 289 V-8 with A/C, power steering, and disc brakes. Christine joins the family’s 1965 fastback, 1976 Cobra II, and a 1977 Mustang II with factory T-tops.
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PHOTO COURTESY OF
TEN Archives
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ccasionally, in the process of putting this column together and digging through old issues of all our magazines, as well as scouring the TEN photo archives, we run across advertisements that just hit the nail right on the head. This month we bring you a Ford ad we found for the newfor-1970 Mustang Mach I, which appeared in the April 1970 issue of Motor Trend. “Mach Won—” just says it all, doesn’t it? The ad promoted the Mach 1 winning the 1969 SCCA Manufacturer’s Rally Championship, which encompassed 8,000 miles of rally racing, a true endurance test for any car. As it says, “Winning is a habit with Mach 1.”
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