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“Ma Beirut odyssey” Uh! Not really “Albert, come let’s review that drawing” I just jumped out of my seat. Oh shit! It was one of my day dreams!!!! Ma’m has not called me yet. It has been quite a few days like this, to be precise, from the day I was inducted to the “core team” of shop drawing reviewers. In fact I was one of the “founding members” of this team. The job sounds simple, all we have to do is to find some mistakes in the shop drawing made by the contractor so that we can sent in back with “revise & resubmit” stamp. But the easiness makes the drawing her least priority, and her least priority tasks are scheduled for after hours which is after 6:30 in the evening. So during the day, i.e. from morning 8 O’ clock till 6:30 pm we used to “review” the drawings ourselves and later in the evening we used to review it along with Ma’m till 10 O’ clock in the night (kind of 4 guys “dating” an aunty). It was at one of those “reviewing” hour today when you just saw me jumping out of my seat. “What shall I do now?” I tried reading about ma bike & wrote a review myself. Recently I had bought a new bike. I tried to learn accounting, tried to solve others problems through google, chit chat, and even tried toilet (went 13 times in a day, record. The sweeper stared at me when I went for 13th time), tried some serious reading (electrical stuff). But in the end everything turned out to be boring. “How about scribbling about something?” Yeah, let’s give it a try. But what shall I write about? I have zero experience in writing. Other than those essays which I wrote in exams, which are not so creative (my marks prove so), I have not written anything else. But everyone starts from zero, so let me write. Let’s see who among those celebrated writers has more creativity than me huh!. Bravo me!!!!!!! I have an interesting thing to write about – “Ma Beirut odyssey” uh! Not really. It was just an official trip. 1
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Wait there, I’ll be back after sometime. I have to take part in the most important ceremony in the office – The Lunch! I don’t like it……………., I just love it!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will be right back. Yep I am back. Coming back to our Beirut trip………. Oh let me give you the background of the story. I am a well fed (I prefer this usage than “over weight”) well brought up well educated young handsome gentleman working in one of the companies in one of the major IT parks in India. We are the Indian design arm of a foreign “MNC” consulting firm doing large commercial residential & infrastructure projects based in Beirut. I was sent along with other two engineers to Beirut office for some goddamn reason (employee exchange). It was in one of those nights when we (my mallu roomies) were having our regular discussion about everything under the sun ‐ girls & aunties, I got a phone call. The number looked completely unfamiliar to me, from somewhere outside India. I thought it would be my brother. But the voice was that of a woman, yeah the same old Ma’m, who was on her vacation in her home town in Beirut. I will not say that it’s not exciting to visit another foreign country, but it was the fact that I’ll be away from her clutches for another 3 months which filled my heart with overwhelming joy. All paper works were completed within no time, they’ve very good contacts in Lebanese ministry of internal affairs. Visa was issued within two days and tickets came the next day and we were scheduled to fly on 22/06/2009, morning 6:30 am, from Mumbai via Bahrain in Gulf air. 21st june 2009, All set to go. It was a beautiful night in june that too in pune with the sky filled with dark clouds, not even a single star in the view. We started at around 1:30am from pune to Mumbai. This travel was not a noteworthy travel. All three of us were excited. The other two engineers were Sankhe & goggu. We know each other very well and were quite normal, lazy guys compared to those workaholics in our office. That was one of the best thing about this group. It would have been an unpleasant stay in Beirut, if it were with one of those workaholics. Both of them were interesting characters, I’ll let you know more about them as the storyline develops. Sankhe had multiple girlfriends and manages them very well. All his girlfriends know each other and are good friends (oooooh!!! he’s a macho
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man, but maintains a low profile). Goggu had his marriage fixed, so there was no scope of having girlfriends. We started our baggage screening. The sarkari babu on duty was very curious about us. Three engineers going to Beirut for induction program (which company of earth will have their head office in Beirut). Somehow we managed to convince him and proceeded to the check in. “Which seat do you prefer sir” “That seat next to you”. I muttered in my mind. “Any seat will do, but three of us should be together” “No problem sir” And as usual the seats allotted to us were on the three corners of the flight. We proceeded to the waiting area and waited patiently for the security check to commence. Mumbai airport is comparable to any other international airport in Middle East and better than both Cairo and Beirut airports. I saw the coffee shop from where I drank coffee for Rs 125, while travelling to Dubai with Rony. This time we didn’t venture into that coffee shop since there was no Rony with us to pay. Rony is our Lebanese group leader who gets paid handsomely for coming all the way from Beirut to an “under developed” country like India. Sankhe was on phone, as usual, trying to console multiple girlfriends asking them to take care of each other. Goggu is in deep sleep tired of imagining functions, ceremonies & other arrangements for marriage. I am the odd one out and was watching the people sitting in the waiting area. After waiting for some time the security check started and we were declared clean to be boarded. The security person there had a dubious look at me as if I was some terrorist or as if I was too heavy to be transported by a passenger aircraft. I think he’s not very happy with the govt. decision to have separate female security staff to screen female passengers. Again waiting!!!!!!!!. After about an hour they announced boarding. We hurried to the bus as if we were flying for the first time. But the initial acceleration during takeoff is really 3
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breathtaking. I am always fascinated by that. During my childhood I used to think that the entire power during the flight comes from that initial thrust, just like a handmade paper airplane. Thank god, it was wrong. Otherwise I would have been ripped apart by that initial thrust. Now we decided to interchange our seats since there was no tempting beauty sitting next to anyone of us, and our co passengers were cooperative though they were uninteresting to us. So I shifted to the seat next to Sankhe and Goggu shifted to the seat behind us. To our great luck the flight attendant responsible for our section was a handsome mid aged man! I decided not to eat if he’s going to serve me. Manhood is a big disqualification for a flight attendant. It could be another measure to cut cost by that ailing airlines company. The only consolation for us was the regular trips by attendants in other area, especially the one serving business class. Since I was in the edge seat, I always tried to squeeze in while she’s passing, but you know it’s not my fault that I’m bit overbuilt. As usual the safety instructions’ illustration started. I leaned forward to find if I could see anything in business class. They were serving black tea & candy to the esteemed passengers. Those were the last few glimpses of business class. After sometime the curtain was closed, interrupting my view. The flight was a pleasant one. There is not much worth mentioning here about the flight. We had to transit at Bahrain airport. In the flight from Bahrain to Beirut, I met a young lady from Nepal. She was going to Beirut to work as domestic labour but she was not very much interested to go to Beirut. It might be the conditions back home that forced her to work there. There are many Nepalese and Bangladeshis working in Beirut as domestic help. Another interesting fact about Lebanon is that it has got only two permanent resident Indians. 181 countries out of 183 countries recognized by UN have got Indians residing permanently, out of which Lebanon enjoys 181st position with just 2 Indians as permanent residents. As the crew prepared for landing, the enchanting aerial view of Beirut was slowly uncovered through the windows. It was different, definitely different from all other countries in Middle East. As you touch down any other airport in Middle East, the first 4
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glimpses of the desert city will make you reluctant to land there. But Beirut was definitely different, not even a small piece of land was covered with sand. It was full green with pine, pear tree, orange tree and the most important, The Cedars. The landscape is unique with the city located in between the sea and mountain. In some areas the mountain touches the sea forming high cliffs – that’s the beauty of it. These valleys are not deserted by humans, every inch in those slopes are populated with beautiful homes and small towns. Our Ma’m lives in one of those. But unfortunately, this thick vegetation was used by different militaries and militias as a cover for their guerilla tactics from time to time. As soon as the flight touched down and halted we disembarked and moved to the immigration. It was about 3 O’ clock in the evening. We bought the stamp for $34 and queued for the immigration officer to stamp. He took at least half an hour for an individual, even though the process was computerized. After immigration and baggage pick up, we came outside the airport where our drivers were waiting for us. “Ahlan Ahlan” They shouted at us. Since there were no other Indians travelling to Beirut other than those worked in our company, they were damn sure that we were their guests. They showed us way to the car and put the luggage inside the boot while we slipped into the seat. The city was impressive, you won’t feel like the city was destroyed and reconstructed frequently. The streets were clean and well maintained. The buildings were tall and painted unlike Cairo where the exterior of the building is not painted. The pedestrians were all well dressed & beautiful. The Lebanese beauty is world famous. After twenty minutes we reached “The Paradise Residency”, the hotel where our accommodation was arranged. 16 hours’ travel is really tiring for any human being. This is true even for a Dar employee. So we decided to take a nap in respective rooms in the comfort of thick mattress, made in Beirut, I guess. Do you think that it’s going to be a true and honest travelogue depicting only my real experiences and events? If you guessed so then you’re mistaken. It’ll be boring if I do the way you expect. There will be only a thin line separating the real events and events evolved 5
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out of my imagination. A person who’s close to me might be able to filter out one from the other. But why should you bother to do so if I am a stranger to you.
We went to the office next day morning and reported to Mr. Boss there. Since Mr.
Big boss was on leave, we had to report only to Mr. Boss. As soon as we told him our names, he started explaining about the project without paying any attention to our bewilderment. It’s not surprising for those who know him already. He had a special interest in me because of my predecessor who has portrayed me as a hardworking, humble, knowledgeable & loyal employee. Though his description was mostly “true”, the volume of work dumped on me was huge. I would’ve beaten him to death if he were near me. Others in the office were really good and helpful. We met everyone and the rest of the day went without much excitement. We also met some Indians already working there and went for lunch with them. It was really expensive. Beirut is generally an expensive city due to huge volume of foreign currency flowing from the Nonresident citizens. Somehow we managed to control our urge to see Beirut and spent our time inside the office till evening 5 O’ clock. At 6 pm sharp, we went to Mr. Boss to tell him that we were leaving. To our astonishment he was surprised to see us leaving so “early”!!!!!!!!!!!
Some how we managed to escape from the office went back to the hotel. I’ll take a
break here. You saw how my first day was; now you can easily guess what happened during the rest of our stay in Beirut. So be it, Guess the story till I’m back. 6
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Chapter 2 Beirut city stands tall among all other cities in the Middle East with its exceptionally beautiful greeneries and exotic beaches. The whole Lebanese are very proud of the fact that they’re the only green country in the whole Middle East. Even their national flag has got a tree on it, The Cedar. You might envy Cedars for its lifespan. There are some cedars in Lebanon which are more than 3000 years old. But the most interesting thing to us is not any of these but the girls there. Lebanon has got the most beautiful girls in the world, and majority of them does not like to hide it!!!!!! I hail from a country, especially a state where beauty is considered a divine gift and it is not to be exposed. So it was a rejuvenating experience. The natural beauty of Lebanon was of course of no much interest to me. The Lebanese economy is mainly based on the inflow of foreign receipts by the expatriates. The currency in Lebanon is Lira whose value is almost fixed against USD ($1=1500 Liras). Living expenses is equal or more than any other developed cities of the west. Food is mainly non vegetarian. A vegetarian will really find it difficult to find food. All kinds of Arabic foods are available abundantly. But you’ve to pay a lot more, more than even Dubai city. Our first outing in the city was to a nearby public beach at a walk able distance from our office. It was the first Saturday afternoon in Beirut. As usual we went there without passport. Beirut is considered to be a vigilant state. But our passports were never checked during our entire stay there unlike Cairo. We had a track history of being arrested by the 7
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police in Cairo for not carrying passport (the officer didn’t record it anyway). The beach was not so beautiful since it was a public beach. The crowd was not up to our expectations. It was mostly fully covered aunties and associated living things (husbands and kids). There were moderate waves and the guards were trying to stop people going deep in to the sea. This part of Mediterranean was not as beautiful as that of Alexandria, but better than Chavakkadu “kadappuram”. The water was light blue with many boats and yachts in the view. The skyline was amazing. But naturally I was not much interested in those.
Without wasting much time in the beach, we decided to walk till pigeon rock near
rouche. It was a steep climb uphill by the roadside. As usual Sankhe was not interested in anything but photo shoot. He might have made at least hundred self “portraits” with my camera (please note here that it was my camera not his). We could identify one building among all others, the one “designed” by our beloved Ma’m, our Ma’m’s brain child. Anyway the building was not so ugly as expected! I don’t know who has really done the architectural design. To appreciate the design done by our Ma’m, I will have to see the interiors of the building. For the time being our chances are zero for that, it’s a luxury apartment building with offices in the lower floors. With half an hour’s time we passed by that building and reached our destination “The pigeon rock”. The pigeon rock is a couple of rocks, huge in size, located in the sea like an island, with an arch shaped opening through it. You can go in a boat through the opening. These are not the only rocks in that region; the entire beach itself is rocky. It’s not even actually beach, it’s a cliff, not so steep but bit sloppy cliff. It has many places invisible from the outside; hence many couples were there. There’s a lot of scope for peeping toms. We went to one of the rocks (not the pigeon rocks) and sat there for some time. There was a small group of natives swimming between the rocks. Unfortunately we had no swimming gears. There was an abandoned boat, I’m not really sure whether it’s abandoned or not. But the water was clear so clear with a bluish shade and you can easily spot fish and other creatures inside. To get you a clear picture the scene was something similar to that beach in the movie “Cast away”. It believed that those caves were inhabited by those early human beings (Ma’m’s
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forefathers). They really must have had a tough & rough skin to sustain those rough rock surfaces.
Again we started photo shoot. There is one thing common among all those photos
which we captured there, Sankhe’s face! When we started our return journey it was around 6 in the evening. I was really hungry, but no one agreed to the idea of eating from outside (too expensive). There is one more problem, the group consisted of two more Indian other than three of us. There is a typical problem when a group of not so close friends go for outing. Eating will be enjoyable, but the issue arises at the time of payment (Who’ll pay). The chance of getting money back from not so close friends is very less. Hence I didn’t take more interest in taking all the 5 of us to a restaurant.
We walked for some more distance and hired a taxi till our hotel. There are two
types of taxis in Beirut – service taxi and normal taxi. Normal taxies are just like a taxi anywhere else in the world. He will allow only those who hired the taxi to get in. But in case of a service taxi, you’ll have to pay per person and there will be many people getting in and out of the taxi on your way, and they’re much cheaper. This time we took a service taxi. After 15 minutes bargaining we agreed on 2000 Lira ($1.25) per person for hardly 10 minutes’ drive. After taking some rest in our hotel suite we again went out to our regular internet telephone center.
The internet telephone center is a place worth mentioning here. The communication
system and the infrastructure in Beirut are pathetic. Phone call charges are exorbitantly high and the internet is neither fast nor reliable. But these internet telephone centers are really cheap. Their rates are comparable to those Indian STD rates. They must have done some “Jugad” (sorry for Indian colloquial) with the internet. Another interesting fact is that you can find people from all over the world gathering at those centers. You’ll find Indians, Bangladeshis, Africans, srilankans etc there. Even Americans come there to make phone calls. The guy there is really smart and manages these huge crowds at ease. But most of the people coming there are domestic workers (female). You can identify Sinhalese and Bangladeshis among them very easily. But all the Africans look alike and their all languages
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sound similar. Even those native Lebanese also come there to talk to their relatives outside the country.
Every Saturday we spent around 2 hours there. Don’t think that I spend the whole
time talking to my friends and family. I used to talk for maximum 30 minutes and wait for Sankhe and Goggu for the rest 1.5 hours. But I never got bored waiting there. Lot of people & lots of languages. Most of the customers are women. It seems that the nature of women is the same all around the world. There is an orange tree next to that shop. I always talk over phone standing beside that orange tree. The orange tree must have witnessed all those conversations. Had it been a human being, he would’ve learned many languages. We finished the business by around 8 pm and reached our hotels by about 8:30 pm. It was a good evening anyways, 1 week after our arrival; we could see at least some parts of Beirut. The major area in the city is still remaining waiting for us – Downtown. It took around 1.5 months waiting to reach downtown.
This junk writing is really boring. I have enrolled in NaNoWriMo (National Novel
Writing Month). Their guiding principle is very simple – you keep on writing & writing junk, do not stop, at some point of time these junks will pave pay to beautiful pieces of art. To take part in their contest, I should write at least 50000 words a month or 1666 words a day. You have to upload your work at the end of this month. Today I am due 8335 words, but till now my word count is showing only 3708. Still long way to go. But it is really a good time pass, especially when you have nothing to do in the office. Let me try to avoid short forms to increase the word count. Our office in Beirut is really good, but not as spacious as our Indian office. The attitude of the native employees towards Indians is not like that of Lebanese expatriates in India. I didn’t get much time to make friends there due to work pressure. But there a few people with interesting characters. The most strange person whom I have met there is my boss itself. He is born and brought up in Lebanon but was Palestinian by origin. He had a refugee passport which he felt a lot bad about. I cannot even imagine how it will be to be a refugee. Hence he was trying to migrate to Canada. He is married to a Lebanese woman whom we have never met, and had 3 children. He owns a prado, a motor bike (600 cc) and a 5 10
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bedroom flat in the middle of the city. This will give you an idea about his financial status. But he was not happy with his social status in Lebanon. Our boss works hard and sits late night every day. At least this was our idea about him till we saw his time card. Thanks to a bug in the time management system; anyone who is having a login can see everyone’s time entries. We really do not know whether it is a bug or not. Our Ma’m who was still approving our timecards was very strict about the timecard entries. It should be very accurate. So we had to somehow get the exact timings of our entry and exit. One of our friends somehow managed to find a hyperlink to access this information. But the access was not a simple http access; it was an ftp access to some directories in the server. Curious to know more about the ftp site, I started browsing through the ftp site. It took just 5 minutes for me to locate everyone’s time entries. Our boss used come to office regularly at 9 am and leave office before 6 pm till our arrival. Any day on which we stayed long he also stayed long with us and left the office immediately after us (Caught red handed). He always used to tell us, “I am sitting late, why you can’t sit?” After the above event we never took this comment seriously. I was surprised by his behavior on the first day. The office timing was only till 5 pm. At about 6 pm went to him to tell him that we were leaving. Being the first day in Beirut and in office we were tired. I ventured to inform him. “Sir, We are leaving” “Why?, why so early”!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In the past 4 years, I have worked with many bosses. But I never faced such a boss.
We could not even blame him, because he had put himself in such a bad situation. He was handling around 15 buildings, all due to be submitted within a month’s time. Most of the engineers had bad experiences with him and none of them was ready to work with him.
Boss sits in a closet (Closet means a closed room separated from the main office
space) along with another senior engineer named Pier. He is a nice guy. They used to fight some time for silly issues like AC blades’ direction, opening or closing windows & panes, mobile music volume etc. Pier is a workaholic and a foodaholic. He sits late night everyday 11
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and eats throughout the day. Since they don’t have heavy meals at fixed time, he always eats something. He almost has a food store below his desk, but always offers me whatever he eats. I always reject his offer politely and it makes him offer me confidently. He once gave me the phone number of the best tawook shop in Lebanon “Malak al tawook”, the king of tawook. I tried it once; it was really good but huge. He has introduced many delicacies of Beirut to me. But I forgot most of the names. He was proud of Lebanese cuisine.
My boss used to push me too much for getting his work done. With my prior
experience of a boss’ behavior, I was certain that if I do not respond the push will keep on increasing and I’ll end up as an overloaded donkey just like him. So I decided to retaliate and waited for the most appropriate time. The timing of the retaliation is very important. He should not feel that I am over reacting. I had seen a female colleague fighting with him a few days back. My Lebanese peers were summoned to his office on a Monday for leaving the office early on previous Saturday evening. One of the biggest drawbacks of boss was that he cannot raise his voice or he has not realized the technique or raising voice to overpower the subordinate. All what he does is abusing their work that too in his normal voice. It was then the girl started shouting back. The moment the girl opened her mouth, boss stopped and started listening to her like an attentive student. She went on talking for about 2 hours! I didn’t really understand what they were talking about. But all those who were outside his cabin could easily hear her and all of them had a smiling face. They were behaving as if it was not a first time event and that was true. In the end my boss came out with a wonderfully bad face. Anyway when I met him in the room later that day, I didn’t forget to show my sympathy towards him for her misbehavior (My silly buttering technique). His conclusion was:‐ “That’s life” Poor boss! But anyway I decided to go ahead with my decision to give an “honest” feed back to vent my anger. Still there are more things to be studied before striking. The most important thing was his influence in his boss and guys above him. There are not too many of 12
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them. He had an immediate boss, who was our HOD and above him, our director. The director knows me well. He is the person who interviewed me during recruitment. But the HOD of Beirut office was a complete stranger to me. With his over 30 years of experience, he is a seasoned player in office dynamics. But my boss did not have a good rapport with him. I realized this when I heard their conversation one day inside my boss cabin.
It was a normal day like any other day. At around 10 am, I was preparing an excel file
related to the elevators. Boss had sent a mail to the entire team to submit the details and quantity of the elevators in their respective buildings. Like the rest of the team members I had slept on this issue for a week. But unlike others, I remembered this mail after one week and started preparing the document. While making that naturally I had some doubts regarding the exact content of the document. I decided to discuss with boss about it and went inside his cabin. When I entered the room, he was talking to somebody over phone. After about 5 minutes, he finished his conversation and started attending my query. He didn’t show much interest to my questions; it seemed that his brain in preoccupied is something else, something which is more important. As we were discussing, he got a phone call from HOD. Since Pier was not there in the room at that time, he put the phone in the speaker phone mode. Though I didn’t understand him clearly, it was damn sure that the HOD is shouting at him. Boss didn’t have any control or influence over him. He was just listening & whispering “tayib tayib” (Ok OK).
With this event, it was clear that the influence he has over HOD is same as what I
have on him, which was absolutely nothing. It further increased my confidence. Now it’s the timing. I had no other option but to wait till I get a chance. I was waiting for an event where he behaves foolishly. I never thought such a beautiful “erroneous behavior” from boss would occur so soon. He always used to ask me to make my subordinates sit late. I never liked the idea of making them sitting late. The underlying principle was plain & simple – “greed transformed you to an overloaded donkey; I am not that greedy. I want neither me nor my subordinates to be another donkey like you”. This great principle I had learned from my boss in the previous company where I worked. I never pressed my subordinates to sit late. He was not very happy with me for this. 13
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One Saturday evening, we Indians and very few Lebanese were working in the office.
Boss had gone outside for his lunch & “oversleeping”. On his return he found none of my subordinates in the office. Since his very basic nature didn’t allow him to show his anger by heated words, he showed his disappointment by abusing me. “I heard that you are encouraging others to leave the office early, he he he” A lightning flash struck in my mind. This is the chance!!!!!!!!! The time is ripe and the ignition spark was generated. I just smiled at him just like any other guy and sat there saliently. I started planning the event. If I respond quickly, it will be considered just a weak guy’s response. “Never take a decision when you’re upset”. I told my Indian counterparts about how I feel about this in a very firm voice and tone. They didn’t laugh at me and tried to support me. They also felt bad about his comment. Then I started planning the conversation which I should have with him once he comes out of his cabin. I carefully articulated the whole event.
He came back to us after about an hour. He was talking to goggu and Sankhe,
standing by the side of my seat. He was not even looking at me. Once they finished their conversation, I started: “Sir, I am hurt, I want to go home and relax” “Why, what happened” (though he knew the issue) I was not infuriated by his response. I never behave that way; it’s anyway my basic nature (Overly matured guy). I was maintained my calm and said: “All the three of us work here every day till late evening. The only driving force which makes us do that is the tight submission schedule of project. We are ready to contribute the maximum extent possible to achieve the submission dates and we are already doing that. When we are having such an attitude, if you blame us for other’s irresponsibility I will be hurt naturally.” “No albert, I didn’t mean to hurt you. I was just joking. I know that you work hard every day.” And a big lecture followed. 14
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That’s it; my arrow has hit its intended target. There were two benefits from this event. He never misbehaved with me and I became more courageous and confident while dealing him. Probable he was scared that I’ll complain about him to the HOD or director like many others among my peers. Anyway this time I won the match. I hereby express my gratitude to Sankhe and goggu for their timely supportive behavior.
Chapter 3
Our next trip after the pigeon rocks was to a cedar preserve called Shouf cedar
preserve at the north of Lebanon. We were not that scared to travel towards north compared to travelling south. Southern region of Lebanon is a disturbed area with lots of Palestinian camps. Some of our colleagues come from these camps. Lebanon’s southern border is shared with Israel and lots of Palestinian refugees used to infiltrate into Israel through that border. Before the trip, I was ignorant about the details of trip. I didn’t even know who will be accompanying us, all I was told is that I have to reach the office at 6 am on Sunday! I was not very lenient to wake‐up at such odd hours to go to a tree reserve forest. I should be ready by 5:45 in a Sunday morning. It’s hard for me. On any Sunday, to get me up even at 8 O’ clock is very hard. Back home, when I was a kid, Pappa used to try it every Sunday for Sunday mass. But his success rate was less than 5%. But this time I have no other options but to wake up at 5 am.
It was on the previous day evening, we had our previous trip to the pigeon rocks. So
naturally we were a bit tired. But all our Lebanese colleagues used to talk about cedars excitedly. The only exception to that was one of our Lebanese group leaders back in Indian office. The survival techniques of cedars are a well studied by scientists all around the world. Let us not discuss about those techniques here. One or many among them may be patented or copyrighted by them. Thanks to copyrights. Cedars grow in mountain regions, I think so. “They are native to the mountains of the western Himalaya and the Mediterranean region, occurring at altitudes of 1,500–3,200 m in the Himalaya and 1,000–2,200 m in the Mediterranean. [1]” Thanks to Wikipedia.
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Somehow I managed to wake up at 5:30 and finished all the morning formalities and
got ready by 6 am. Uh we are late. I still have to eat breakfast and walk till the office. In any case I cannot skip breakfast. It’s not that I am obsessed with food, but for the fear of diseases which may affect us if we don’t eat breakfast. It is a rule which I have not broken in my lifetime. “kaanam vittum breakfast kazhikkanam” (Eat breakfast even if you have to sell your innerwear for purchasing it). Experts talk only about regular breakfast. But as a responsible citizen of India, I don’t want to overload public healthcare system hence extended this expert advice to lunch, evening high tea and dinner.
Time was running out. I decided to have a light breakfast now and to have a heavy
breakfast once we reach one of the destinations. I poured juice to the glass, took out two apricots and on peach from fridge and spread jam on the bread loaves. Finished all the above within 5 minutes while sankhe and goggu were banging on my door. We left our hotel and hurried to the office. We might have reached the office by around 6:15 am. We saw two vacant buses parked near the office with no one visible in the vicinity!
“My breakfast!” “My unfinished sleep” It is gone. At 6:30 am the tour organizer from the Indian side arrived with an innocent smile on
his face. He is always like that anyway. “Where are others?” “Ah, they will come. Let us wait” Ooh that was a really comforting answer. By around 7 am everyone came and we started our travel by about 7:15 am. There was a big bus and a small bus. All Lebanese and Americans were in big bus and the Indians were in small bus. Since it was not an official trip no one took any pain to mingle with other nationalities. But still there were very few people whom I met during the trip. The travel was too boring and irritating, because of few over smart individuals in our group. Anyways I don’t want to mention about it here. They are still my “hai” “bye” buddies.
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Our first stop was at a famous church. I don’t know what it is famous for. Anyway the
spiritual ambiance was good inside the church. But the location lacked good food shops. All I got to eat was some stupid half baked bread (similar to wheat “ada”). Sankhe and Goggu blamed themselves for not having breakfast at the hotel. No one was there to guide or to explain us. The main organizer was a Lebanese guy. He had a large nose. Hereafter I’ll refer his as “Mookken” (Means a person with large nose in my mother tongue). All we used to hear from him was this: “They demanded us X dollars, but I bargained with them for you and reduced it to X‐1 dollars” He is anyway a funny guy with large nose, but had a very good rapport with all of them.
Our next location was Beiteddine open air theatre. I have heard about this event
from our Ma’m. She had explained us about things to see in Beirut. When we reached there they were preparing the venue for the event which is scheduled to begin after 1 week. It is actually a palace of some king in Beirut. These historically important places are rare in Beirut because of the large number of wars fought in the heart of Lebanon. So they value to those monuments. There was a small museum inside the palace. I met a lady in our group called Frida at that museum. She found a “made in India” pistol and notified me about it. All the artifacts are beautifully displayed there and there were few guys who work there as free guide to the tourists. None of the artifacts were made in Lebanon, probably they don’t enjoy making, and rather they enjoy breaking.
There was a courtyard outside and a well maintained garden. It was beautiful. We
shot a couple of photos there and helped Frida for hers. Two newly wed couples came there for photo shoot in their western style wedding costumes along with a cameraman. They were bit disturbed by our presence there. Some of the guys tried to take pictures with them. Anyway I was not interested, I was concentrating on Frida. We came outside the Beiteddine soon. Outside it was very cool since it was on a mountain side. There were some coniferous trees there. I think that was pine trees. I tried to explore that area, but no one else showed any interest. 17
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While waiting for others, we drank some water from a nearby small stream. It was
pure and sweet. Water resources are another asset (sometimes a liability) of Lebanon. But it doesn’t have any major rivers. Water source is mainly these springs and ground water which gets replenished every year by regular rains. They never have to purify sea water for their needs. Water is also being exported to other poor countries who cannot afford desalination plants. These facts anyway didn’t cheer me up while drinking. I was still thinking of my lost breakfast, sleep and not to mention ‐ Frida.
We started again from there and everything was same in the bus except that some
of the irritants were tired and was not irritating anymore. But till now Lebanese and Americans were in the big bus and Indians were in the small bus. Bus was taking us to higher and higher altitudes through the mountain ranges. Variety of trees is not as diverse as that of an Indian mountain range, rather it is monotonous. You will find same type of tree for a long stretch and another type in the next stretch which creates a feeling that these trees are cultivated by someone like a rubber estate in kerala. Journey continued for an hour or so and finally we reached Shouf Cedar preserve.
I have never gone a tree preserve or a reserved forest in India. There are quite a
number of reserved forests in India, but no tree preserve, at least I have not heard about any tree preserves in India. But this tree preserve is like a plantation of cedars. It has only cedars inside and the most important the temperature is really low like Ooty in India. The ground is soft with many layers of decomposed leaves and other organic deposits. This entire region will be covered in snow during the winter months. But being summer you won’t find any snow there in the vicinity. The oldest Cedar in this preserve is around 3000 years old. We enquired about this Cedar to the guide. But he said it is located in the interior of the forest and it will take a day if we have to cover that distance by walk crisscrossing this forest. I only hope that the age of the oldest Cedar is not a myth. I could not even imagine its size if it has grown for all these 3000 years. But I heard somebody telling me that Cedars stop growing at some point of time and stays there for the rest of the life like those creatures in animal kingdom.
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I noticed the Americans in our group. Most of them were known to me. I had
attended a meeting with them the week before. But I had a little interaction with them. They have involved themselves in shooting picture in different angles, quite uninterested in others in the group, the natural American way. We were walking though the pathway inside the forest. We are supposed to travel only through this pathway and are not supposed to explore the rest of the forest ourselves. This is a general rule for that preserve and we were in no mood of breaking rules since there was no proper government. Sometimes breaking rules in Lebanon might cost you your time, career and even life. There were many rules to be followed inside these forests so I was not really keen to be inside. The guide with us kept on explaining all about cedars and this preserve in particular, even though no one was interested. But everyone paid attention to him which encouraged him to spit out even more crap. One of the Lebanese members volunteered to translate the guide to English. But we understood the guide better than him.
At the end everyone started concentrated in photo shoot. In the beginning of digital
camera era, only one or two persons had cameras. So everyone will pester him with request for photos. But now digicams have become very common and almost everyone had one. All of them were concentrating of capturing photos in their own creative way and hence it was very difficult to gather them for group photos. Our “Mookken” started shouting at all of us to gather us for a group photo. But again there were discussions regarding whose camera has to be used. It cannot be shot with all cameras. So the discussion went on and on, and ultimately his camera itself was shortlisted. He shot first the whole group then sub groups and sub sub groups and shot till his thirst for group photos subsided away. Anyway I didn’t even bother to collect those photos afterwards.
After the photo session, it was time to go. The most attractive thing about this trip
was that we didn’t know where we are heading to. Even our Indian organizer didn’t have a clue about. I admired him for taking this challenge of organizing a trip without any information about the location. We had already got bored and were in a mood to go back to our hotel and take rest. But the trip was only half way through. The next location was a lake “the Caraoun Lake”. I do not know the significance of this lake. Probably this is the only one 19
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lake in whole Lebanon. Though Lebanon is a land of stream and rivers, there are no navigable rivers in Lebanon. My mind didn’t ponder more into water bodies in Lebanon, respecting the stomach’s call. I wanted “Mookken” to take us to a nearby Hotel. But I was sure that it is only a distant hope. They will never have food on time.
To my surprise the bus stopped in the parking lot of a restaurant. The restaurant was
in an odd place but was filled with tourists. There was nothing near to it except waste land. I prepared my mind to have a huge lunch, went inside the hotel quickly with “Mookken” before he finished everything in the kitchen. I waited there while “Mookken” talked to the waiter in Arabic. Time went on and there was no output practically, they went on and on talking. My stomach urged me to interrupt them. “What is going on?” “No nothing we are finalizing the menu and price. They have vegetarian and non vegetarian lunch but non vegetarians will have to eat beef” Oooooooooooooooh!!!!!!!!!! A deep sigh of anger erupted from Indian side. Fifty percent of non vegetarians were converted to vegetarian on the spot. “Don’t you have just chicken in non veg menu” I ventured to ask “Yes sir, we can serve you chicken and some extra veg dishes instead of beef” 75% of those of converted vegetarians are converted back to non vegetarianism. But 25% remained as vegetarians dubious of “extra” dishes. “Mookken” finalized the price with great difficulty. While I was about to go to the wash room, “Mookken” announced: “Guys, let’s go to the lake now” What the hell!!!! Why does he want to go to lake now? Let’s eat. Ooh! These guys will never change. I was helpless; there was no one to support my idea of eating first and later going to the lake. My liberty is being questioned here and I am bound to go to the lake conceding to the pressure. However I don’t have any other option but to go with them. So be it. Let us go to the lake. 20
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The lake was very near to the hotel. We reached there within 5 minutes. It was just a lake. I searched all around to find something interesting. But there was nothing. Just a lake. Oh sorry, there were some boats too. So what. “Ok guys, let’s go back” I wanted to shout at them, but didn’t. To my luck no one showed any inters to go for boating or even worse fishing. We spent around 15 minutes at the lake site without doing anything but allowing the chicken to be cooked back in that restaurant. We went back to the restaurant soon and settled down at tables as usual, Indians at one table, Lebanese at another table and Americans at another. The guy who’s serving had least respect for our hunger. He brought some salad first. This is how you normally get served in any hotel in Beirut in tune with the culinary customs of Lebanon. Main meals they eat slowly which goes on for about 2 hours. There were not much eatables in the first set of salads. It was a collage of green vegetables. I could identify cucumber and tomato in it, but the rest of them looked like grass & shrubs cut from the field outside. I felt really sorry for the vegetarians. I knew from the beginning itself that vegetarian food in Lebanon means green salads and green salads only. But most of our Indian tour mates were not really cognizant about this. They were still eagerly waiting for more delicious imaginary Lebanese vegetarian dishes while I ate vegetables one by one along with Lebanese bread dipped in hummus. Hummus is nothing but pea’s paste, made from our same old white peas (Channa). They proudly say it is a “Lebanese” Dish. The next course was some cooked/fried Lebanese dishes. Still chicken was visible only in the nearby courtyard, nowhere in any of the tables. Others were chatting and commenting about the food. They didn’t show much interest in the food. Thank god. Indians will anyway face problem of food if he travel outside Indian subcontinent. Spices are not used so lavishly in any other place except in India. For a Lebanese guy it will be a torture to have such a spicy food. My colleague in the Beirut office even tried once to test my spice tolerance by ordering double extra spicy Mexican chicken sandwich which I told him was average spicy as per Indian standards. By the time chicken arrived, our 21
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appetite was almost finished and was in no mood to eat further. It was grilled chicken, same as that of everywhere in Middle East. Vegetarians were still waiting for their imaginary main course. I wished good luck to them and started attacking chicken.
Meal came to an end when I finished chicken and the vegetarians concluded
that there is no more dish coming up. Fruits kept coming in once we finished our main meal and the waiters were very liberal. They might have noticed us eating almost nothing. Our meal was over within one hour and we looked around to get up. But for Lebanese it has just started. They were still eating their salads! Some of them had even ordered “argheela” (Hookka). We decided to get up anyway. We got up and while we were walking towards the entrance the head waiter noticed us and being the biggest guy in the group he asked me: “Why did you finish early? Didn’t you like the food?” What the ‐‐‐? We ate for about an hour and he’s telling “early”. This was the one of the slowest lunch I ever had in my life. “No no, the food was excellent, we are Indians and Indians eat fast if the food is good” “Oh thank you sir” “You are most welcome, where is the rest room” “Towards your right sir” We had to wait there for another hour to get Lebanese out of the hotel and another half an hour to start our journey to some “icream shop”. That’s what we understood from our “Mookken” “We will now go to a small town nearby; it is famous for ice‐cream” God! When will I reach back to my hotel? I don’t remember anyone mentioning about travelling for a whole day to go to an ice cream shop. Most of them in the Indian group was having same thoughts. Anyway we had only a short stay at the ice cream town. 22
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While we were having ice‐cream, news broke out that the situation in Beirut has
become vulnerable in the area near to our office. Not just vulnerable, fire broke out near our office and two people died. The ice‐cream was really soothing but not this news. We had no idea what to do, whether staying there will be good or going back to Beirut will be good. However all of them hurried to go back to Beirut pointing out that the roads will be blocked if the agitation becomes serious. No one knew the reason for the eruption of new disturbance. Now they spilt the bus between those who are staying in Beirut and those who are staying in the outskirts, which meant the mixing of Indians with non Indians.
The guy who came to sit in the seat next to me was an Egyptian, a smart Egyptian.
He had a spontaneous and ambitious plan to learn Hindi on the return trip. All most all the foreigners think that Hindi is the language in India. Though my language skills in Hindi are not bad and have scored whopping 94% in 10th Hindi paper, I am still a novice and not really the right person to be a Hindi teacher. Anyways you don’t really need to anything about the subject if the person whom you’re trying to teach is new to that subject. My new disciple’s energy levels are way beyond that of mine. So it was really tough for me to cope with his enthusiasm even after one day’s boring trip. But after learning some basic Hindi he fell asleep.
We reached back to our respective room by 10 in the night and slept. I learned a new
thing about Lebanon: If you have too much money to squander then go to Shouf Cedar Preserve. Chapter 4 It had really become boring here. The sleeping hours kept on rising for the past few months in the office. They have now started hell lot of training programs. It was like teaching a 10th class student “How to multiply using multiplication table”. Though our shop drawing “review” process is in full vigor, the drawings are not pouring in from the contractor as we expected. Last week we had meetings with contractor’s representative to “expedite” the drawings. In fact it was not for expediting the drawing but to let the contractor to learn 23
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how to earn a code B on his drawings. From his feedback on our comments, we learnt that we should comment his drawings in Arabic instead of English. Anyway I am not the one singled out here, most of the engineers and draftsmen feel like the way I feel, relaxed with not much to do in the office. Ma’m also is quite relaxed and spent most of the time inside her cabin. She comes out just to “supervise” and “oversee” the juniors who just joined the organization. The ambience in the office has changed ever since I joined here 1.5 years back. It was a small office with just over 100 employees. Now it has grown to a moderately big organization with around 400 employees. But for our life in pune, there was no much change. Of course we live in a duplex row house very far from the office and own a bike which increases my mobility or in other way “freedom to travel”. We watch movies almost every week. On weekdays we don’t prefer to go outside owing to the huge “workload” waiting for us next day in the office. My typical day schedule any week day goes like this – Wake up at anytime between 6 am till 6:30 am, finish morning necessities, leave home by 7:30 am, eat breakfast, reach office by 8 am, drink tea and wait for next tea, drink tea at 11 am, wait for lunch, eat lunch and browse in the lunch break, wait for tea at 3 pm, drink tea and wait till 5:30 to leave office, leave office, buy vegetables, cook food, eat, talk to friends and sleep by 10pm. However we have to plan the activities for next week. Our great Ma’m is taking one week leave to roam around in India. Her last two plans were ditched by the fear of swine flu. But this time she has no other option but to go since her relatives have come to see India. Beirut is not the only international trip which I have made with the grace of my organization. I had been to Cairo in the name of training for about 6 months and been to dubai for a week for the purpose of attending an exhibition. But how the Beirut trip is different is that it is the only place where I worked in the office. During the stay in Cairo all what we have to do was to go to office just for the sake of showing our faces in the office. The timing in the office was also excellent, from 8 am till 3 in the evening. Even in my college I didn’t have the luxury of coming home at 3 pm. We used to have parties, trips, movies and hell lot of fun after the office. Even in office we used to have fun. We three of us
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were sitting inside a closed room blocked from the view of others by brick walls and there was a secretary sitting next to our door keeping our door shut all the time. Career wise, the Cairo stay was a disaster. After working in L&T for about 2.5 years, being engaged in work for throughout the working hours had become the order of the day. The shift from heavy workload to a practically null work has had driven me crazy. I grew fattier day by day. If I had not joined gym in Cairo, I would have looked like a couch potato on my return to India. I don’t know even today about the management’s purpose of sending us to Cairo for enjoying life. Probably it would have been their part of corporate social responsibility program. However we enjoyed it till the last drop.
We had a short stint in the Egyptian police station also. I had it twice. Once as
a victim when they arrested us for not carrying passport and once to complain about pick pocketing. In fact we were travelling to a nearby tourist sport in Cairo without passport. Actually the manager of the hotel where we were supposed to stay took us to the police station since he was a responsible citizen of Egypt and suspected us for “terrorist” activities. Overall result was we travelled 150 kilometers just to go to a police station! Funny huh! But police in Egypt is not like the police in India. They’re very polite, kind, and lovable people. He was smiling at us when he arrested us. I would not say that he arrested us, he let us enjoy his hospitality. The other occasion when I went to police station was to complaint about pick pocketing. Somebody pick pocketed my friend. He was in a trauma immediately after the event. It was on a Thursday evening. I had come back from office and started browsing in my laptop. I got a call from my friend “Da I lost everything” “Oh what? You surrendered your virginity to an Egyptian beauty! Great yaar” “Da I lost my purse” “What? You are pick pocketed? How when where?” “Near my apartment, I lost my cards, money. What to do now?” 25
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“Don’t worry come here we’ll disable your cards from here” I was horrified anyway by his voice. It seemed like he was going to cry. After 5 minutes he came in with a grief stricken face while I was searching for his bank’s card theft reporting numbers. He lost some money, considerable amount and the cards. He talked to his brother in law in Kerala and entrusted him for blocking the cards. After some time his mood changed. Once he gained back his stance and started thinking about catching the thief. Pick pocketing in cairo is not a rare event. Some of our colleagues were pick pocketed before. But no one had told me a successful attempt of catching the thief. I enquired one of our colleagues about the procedure of complaining the police. We know the police station. It was next to a super market where we used to go for buying daily supplies. “Angane vittal engana? I have to catch him” Anyway I conceded to his repeated attempts for pursuing me to complain about the theft. We had to get the petition written in Arabic so we went to the office and got it written and one of the Egyptian colleagues accompanied us to the police station. We went inside and he talked something to them and the police man smiled at us. We sat there for a long time till the police man took our case. The Arabic engineer helped us conversing with the police and they took my friend into another room to show some photographs of local thieves. He has not seen the thief; he had not even realized that he was pick pocketed before reaching the apartment. While they went to another room in the police station, I came out of the station and waited outside. Since the supermarket and a browsing center were there next to the police station, it was a daily commuting road for many Indian engineers.
Our colleagues kept on coming in with dubious looks and started enquiring
about the reason for me standing in front of a police station. I didn’t explain them what really has happened in detail. If I had done so the small congregation of foreigners would have formed which irritates the natives. Egyptians are you your best friends if they’re left un
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irritated. I stood waiting there for about 1 hour. My friend came out with the police man and told me: “I am going with them to the main police station” “for what” “They have some thieves caught fresh today. They will conduct an identification parade for me” “Are you nuts?” “I have to catch the thief” “Good lord! Talk to your parents before your hunt.” “Ok” All of them got into a car and sped away. To be continued…..
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