Lodz In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Łódź No. 30, January - April 2016

No. 30 - 5zł

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Your Guide to the City of Cinema

Discover style At AnDel’s Hotel loDz DIS C OV ERAmAzing INSPIRING DE SIGN

DIS C OV ER INSPIRING DE SIGN

Discover andel’s Hotel Lodz, an architectural pearl The excellent location on the grounds of the MaA unique place in the heart of Lodz teeming with life and and hasart ancomplex inimitable situated in the former XIX century textile millwhich and is nufaktura shopping, cultural and Discover Hotel Lodz, anbest architectural location on the thebouMaatmosphere. Discover thebrick. Hotel in pearl Poland; anexcellent architectural gem located aofrestored carefully andel’s renovated brick by The hotel’s de- The near Piotrkowska Street, the grounds city’sinlongest th situated in the former XIX century textile mill and nufaktura shopping, cultural and art complex and 19 Century textile mill. It’s a place that combines business, entertainment and art where sign is complemented by a unique collection of levard, make the hotel a new hotspot for urban carefully renovated by brick. The hotel’s de- near Piotrkowska you admire a brick unique collection of contemporary artworks. Street, the city’s longest bouPolishcan contemporary artists. discoverers. sign is complemented by a unique collection of levard, make the hotel a new hotspot for urban Polish contemporary artists. discoverers. Destination: Łódź Benefits: Modern design in an industrial monument explore: www.andelslodz.com Destination: Łódź Benefits: Modern design in an industrial monument explore: www.andelslodz.com ul. Ogrodowa 17, 91-065 Łódź, tel. +48 42 279 10 00, [email protected], www.andelslodz.com

Contents

Feature The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity

6

Arrival & Transport

8

City Basics Basic History

11 13

Culture & Events 14 Restaurants

18

Cafés

30

Nightlife

32

Manufaktura

38

Off Piotrkowska

50

Sightseeing Essential Łódź Sightseeing Hollyłódź

53 54 59

Jewish Łódź

61

Leisure

65

Shopping

68

Directory

72

Hotels

74

Maps & Index City Centre Map City Map

79 80-81

Regional Map

82

Street Index

84

Listings Index

85

Features Index

86

IN PRINT ONLINE ON YOUR MOBILE

The festive lights go bright when dusk turns to night on the City’s main drag.

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January - April 2016

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Foreword Happy 2016 and welcome to wonderful wintery Łódź (ph. pr. woodge)! We are proud to be celebrating our 30th Edition of Łódź In Your Pocket and equally excited to kick off what is sure to be a landmark year for this postindustrial Polish pearl. With all sorts of huge investments being rolled out throughout the year and a ton of upcoming events and festivals, we will be doubling our efforts to bring you all the latest news and updates. We’ve been busy in the last few years improving our print guides, building a new website, expanding our social media reach and we are looking forward to launching a brand new IYP App later this year.

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com Company Office & Accounts General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676 Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716 Circulation 10,000 copies published 3 times per year Editorial Editor: Thymn Chase; Contributing Writer: Cameron Eves; Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan, Anna Żbikowska; Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated; Cover © Paweł Augustyniak. Courtesy of Łódź City Council.

Of course all of this is all well and good, but the bottom line is that if you are reading this, it is winter in Łódź, which can be a bit bleak. This is where we come in. This city is packed with great museums, a cutting edge culinary scene, a vibrant nightlife and hosts some of Poland’s best concerts and events, all of which you now have at your fingertips. If you are visiting Łódź in March there are two special events at Łódź’s very own Atlas Arena - the star-studded classical and pop crossover extravaganza that is Night of the Proms or for you hip hop fans out there - the one and only Macklemore! Read more about these great events and many more in our Culture and Events section on page 14.

Sales & Circulation Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warsaw Manager: Klaudia Briss 606 749 643 Poznań/Wrocław Manager: Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642 Gdańsk/Łódź Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824 Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

FEATURE The Holiday Season in Poland seems to last longer than in other parts of the world, which is great if you’re visiting in January as there is always plenty going on. If you are lucky enough to be in town on January 10th make sure to go out of your way to take part in The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity. Read all about it on page 6.

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Łódź In Your Pocket

Our new digital platform, online at inyourpocket.com, is a radically redesigned and restructured resource which places the visitor at the heart of the cities we cover. The new website puts you in total control of our content on whatever desktop, laptop, tablet or mobile device you are using. Give it a go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward we have ever taken and entrenches our position as a game-changing publisher in all formats. Meantime, back in the world of print, we are close to completing the first issue of Kaliningrad IYP: watch this space for more info. To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). lodz.inyourpocket.com

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale jewelry brand whose philosophy is to create unique, engraving jewelry, customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. plated-gold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets, stones, crystals and pearls.

ŁÓDŹ, 18 Piotrkowska Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise

The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity

A volunteer collects donations and hands out hearts at the GOCC. Photo by: Mariusz Cieszewski, Flickr.com, CC BY-ND 2.0

It’s that time of year again - the day when literally every single person you encounter on the street will be sporting a red heart sticker (and those who don’t will be endlessly harassed by unnaturally cheerful people with collection boxes). What are they for? They’re proof that you donated to the largest National Christmas Charity in Poland. Though sounding a bit like the title of a Charlie Brown Christmas Special, the Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity (known in Polish as the ‘Wielka Orkiestra Świątecznej Pomocy’) is actually one of Poland’s biggest non-profit charity organisations, successfully raising millions of złoty for the Polish healthcare system and under-funded public hospitals since 1993. Founded by Jerzy Owsiak - a man who can best be described as a bespectacled force of nature – GOCC changes its beneficiary cause each year, but focuses on raising awareness and lots of money for children’s healthcare issues. In only its first year, the organisation raised over 1.5 million USD and its annual finale has since become the biggest event of its kind in Poland, raising over 150 million USD to date.

Every city in PL will be doing its part with a wide and varied programme of events as volunteers with their recognisable red collection buckets rove about encouraging everyone to reach into their pockets. This year is the 24th Annual GOCC and the charitable aims of the organisation will be broadened to also include several projects benefiting the elderly as well as therapy and equipment for infants and babies. Everything concludes simultaneously across the country at 20:00 with a simultaneous fireworks display known as the ‘Light to Heaven.’ A truly virtuous and remarkably successful project, those who have enough heart to contribute will receive one as well - the iconic red sticker which you will see on everyone in town this day. Indeed the stickers are so prolific that to not have one is a bit of an embarrassment. Go on, Scrooge. ‘It’s for the kids.’ This year in Łódź will feature all kinds of attractions and most of the action will go down on Piotrkowska street with the main stage being located smack dab in the middle near 94-96 PIotrkowska. The fun begins at 14:00 on January 10th with a Giant Parade which will include classic cars, 60 horses from 20 stables with riders decked out in different outfits - ancient Romans, medieval royalty etc. The Parade will wind through ul. Piotrkowska, ul. Rewolucji 1905, ul. Wschodnia, ul. Pomorska, Pl. Wolności, ul. Legionów, ul. Próchnika and back onto Piotrkowska. Between 12:00 and 17:00 there will be a huge Urban Picnic near the intersection of ul. Piotrkowska and Al. Schillera with many attractions for the kids such as Fire Brigades, City Guards, pony rides, riding lessons for children and a food stand with Polish cuisine. From 14:00 - 19:00 there will be a Slavic and Viking Village set up (located in Pasaż Rubinsteina) and the main concerts kick off on the mainstage at 15:00. Local bands will play straight through till 20:00 when the sky will light up and the Fireworks will rain down. It’s all for free but be prepared to put your hand in your pocket more than once as it’s all for a very good cause. 10.01 SUNDAY XXIV GREAT ORCHESTRA OF CHRISTMAS CHARITY QA‑1, Manufaktura, ul. Drewnowska 58, www.wosp.org.pl.

The Łódż mounted City Guard lead the Great Orchestra parade Courtesy of The City Guard

Once a year the Great Orchestra’s grand one-day finale is organised by volunteers in virtually every town in Poland, with hundreds of bands volunteering to play free fund-raising concerts - some 800 concerts featuring 1300 performing artists and 120,000 volunteers nationwide. The grand finale traditionally takes place on the second Sunday of the new year, making this year’s event January 10th. 6

Łódź In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Transport In spite of being Poland’s third largest city Łódź’s links to the outside world leave much to be desired, though the birth of the budget flight has at least opened a few new routes. Travelling to other destinations in Poland, barring Warsaw that is, can be a trial. Fortunately once you’re here you’ll find the city has a well-developed tram and bus network as well as a bountiful supply of cheap taxis. If you’re traversing Piotrkowska, the principal high street, then take advantage of one of the dirt-cheap rickshaws that zip up-and-down the street.

BY BUS Bus travellers to Łódź used to be dropped at the central Łódź Fabryczna station, but Fabryczna’s massive renovation means buses are picking up and dropping off primarily from Kaliska station (though other points around town are used as well). Expect this annoyance to continue until Fabryczna reopens in mid 2016. ŁÓDŹ KALISKA BUS STATION The Łódź bus station took up the eastern part of Łódź Fabryczna train station, and since it’s under renovation buses have been scattered around town. Express and international buses depart from Łódź-Kaliska (there is parking in front of the post office) and international tickets can be purchased from the booking office which is open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 13:00 and closed Sun (the domestic ticket office is open daily 05:30 - 20:00). There is no left luggage, but you will find toilets and kiosks for transport tickets and mobile phone needs. In addition to Kaliska there is another bus station, Dworzec Północny PKS, located at ul. Smugowa 30/32 where you can catch more local busses. Note that all buses to Warsaw leave from Kaliska. Departure locations for buses to Lublin and other destinations should be checked via the website or phone number that are listed under Łódź Kaliska bus station. GETTING TO TOWN If you arrive at Łódź-Kaliska you have your choice of taking a taxi from the rank outside or cheaping out and taking the tram. Take trams 12 or 14 to get to the neighbourhood of Piotrkowska. Bus 98 is also an option. Make sure to check the latest tram and bus prices on www.mpk.lodz.pl before your trip.QE‑4, Al. Włókniarzy (parking in front of the post office), tel. (+48) 42 631 97 06, www.pks.lodz.pl.

BY CAR For someone taking to the road today the following warnings should be taken into account. Firstly when driving outside of built-up areas you will typically find yourself sharing a single lane road with anything from a sports car convertible to an old bloke in charge of a horse and cart. Throw in the huge fleet of lorries that traverse Poland and you will commonly find yourself in a situation where traffic is blocked behind said lorries/horse/tractor. This results in frustrated/impatient drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then braking sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be warned and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front. 8

Łódź In Your Pocket

For those brave enough to venture out on the road, the following information should be noted. Poland has strong drink-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your license and passport at all times when driving. The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/ hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. A new law was introduced in April 2007 making it compulsory to have headlights switched on at all times. Car related crime is high and drivers should make use of guarded car parks where possible. ARRIVING BY CAR Connecting Łódź with the outside world are the E75 running north, the E30 going north east, the west bound A2, the south running E75, and road number 72 heading to the east. Once in Łódź the first thing you’ll notice is the treacherous state of many of the roads, and you’d be advised to make sure the shock absorbers are in full working order. Car crime in Poland is rife, and we fully suggest taking advantage of one of the two guarded car parks in the city. If you’re parking on the street you’ll be paying 1zł for the first half hour, then 2zł for the first full hour, increasing from there. GUARDED PARKING QE‑2, ul. Sterlinga 21, tel. (+48) 791 55 33 32. GUARDED PARKING QG‑3, ul. Łagiewnicka 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 657 67 84.

BY PLANE As Poland’s third largest city Łódź gets its fair share of air passengers, and with a brand new terminal the experience of flying in to and out of the city has gotten increasingly more pleasant (well, as pleasant as flying can be, anyway). ŁÓDŹ AIRPORT INFORMATION POINT Travel agency providing tickets to ‘far corners of the earth’, general travel and airport information, low-cost carriers and regular lines, as well as promising the best offers from Łódź and the rest of Poland. Info available from 07:00 - 21:00. QF‑5, ul. Gen. Stanisława Maczka 35 (Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport), tel. (+48) 42 683 52 55, www.lotnisko. lodz.pl. ŁÓDŹ WŁADYSŁAW REYMONT AIRPORT Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport (Port Lotniczy Łódź im. Władysława Reymonta) opened a brand new terminal in June 2012 that significantly enlarged the airport’s capacity lodz.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Transport and which now handles all arrivals and departures. Inside you’ll find Hertz, National, Europcar and Avis car hire stands, an ATM to withdraw Polish currency, a currency exchange office (kantor), a police point and two places to grab food, One Minute and Stop & Eat express bar. Taxis hover outside the terminal when planes arrive, and a journey to the centre is around 30-40zł. Two taxi companies, Taxi 400 400 (42 640 04 00) and Taxi Plus (800 500 500) are permitted to pick up from the airport and can be trusted. The bus stop is directly outside the main entrance though neither bus (55 or 65) drops you particularly close to the main street, Piotrkowska. QF‑5, ul. Gen. Stanisława Maczka 35, tel. (+48) 42 683 52 55, www.lotnisko.lodz.pl.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Łódź can boast a well-developed network of bus and tram routes that traverse the city, however at the moment transit is very much under construction - to the point where running our usual tram map doesn’t make sense. Be aware that delays are prevalent and factor extra time into your journey. The comprehensive website at www.mpk.lodz. pl features full English translation of content, including timetables for all routes, general information and ticket prices. A brief exploration of the website will reveal that venomous animals are banned from public transport, as are people who are ‘slovenly, scruffy or give off an offensive smell’. Reassuring, but in reality completely untrue. Tickets (bilety) can be purchased from most streetside kiosks, at some onboard machines or from the driver (for a single trip that doesn’t require changing vehicles) and must be validated on boarding the tram or bus by punching them into the metal boxes (kasowniks) found next to the doors. Failure to do so will result in a 70zł fine (if paid in 7 days; after it goes up to 200zł) if you’re caught by one of the undercover ticket inspectors. Prices are currently as follows (though they may go up in 2016 so check the website to be sure): 2.60zł (1.30zł) 20 minutes 3.40zł (1.70zł) 40 minutes Interestingly the city has thoughtfully bumped up the ticket times by 20 minutes because of the construction and public transit renovations in the city; that means a 20 minute ticket is now good for 40 minutes, a 40 is good for 60, etc. In addition a single trip ticket from the driver is 3.80zł, and one day passes can be purchased from kiosks (12/6zł). Both trams and buses usually operate from 05:00 until 23:00 after which night buses (marked with an N) serve the city. facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

BY TRAIN With the city lying in the centre of the country, Lodz is a crossroads for many of the rail networks covering the country. It doesn’t actually have one central station though which means trains pass through Łódź using two of the three main stations - Kaliska (generally for east/west routes) and Widzew (north/south routes). The third major station is Łódź Fabryczna and while being the most central of the three, it is also a deadend with trains from Warsaw terminating here, and currently closed for renovations. The Łódź - Warsaw line has undergone a major overhaul, but nowadays the once 90-minute journey has inflated to two hours. Other inter city links remain in pretty poor shape. You can take trains directly from Łódź to most major Polish cities but the speed on many can be slow and minor delays are standard. At present a 250km journey to Kraków will take three to four hours. Gdańsk, 370km away, will take around 5 and a half hours. It is worth checking the useful website www. rozklad-pkp.pl for the best connection but you will often find the quickest way, especially once the new line is open, is to travel to Warsaw and then onto your destination from there. ŁÓDŹ KALISKA TRAIN STATION With Łódź Fabryczna on hiatus during renovations Łódź Kaliska has seen an uptick in traffic. The station handles the additional visitors well and offers all the essentials ATMs, toilets and kiosks for transport tickets and mobile phone needs. A taxi rank outside will get you to the center of the city for 20-25zł. Cheapskates can get the 12 tram at the Dworzec Łódź Kaliska tram stop and get off at the Kościuszki tram stop (7-8min) for quick access to Piotrkowska.QG‑4, Al. Unii Lubelskiej 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance, seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00. ŁÓDŹ WIDZEW TRAIN STATION With the closure of Łódź Fabryczna recently, Łódź Widzew now enjoys more traffic. Fortunately it was modernised recently and now includes a waiting room and toilets (also for disabled), press kiosk, café and unreliable Wi-Fi. The station itself is closed from 23:15 - 04:00. If you want to save on cab money walk the 200 metres to the Puszkina tram stop (from ul. Służbowa walk to ul. Adamieckiego and turn right onto ul. Rokicińska and you’re there). Catch bus 75 from the Dworzec Łódź Widzew bus stop and get off at the Lodowa stop. From there take tram 3 and get off at the Manufaktura stop. The trip will take you around 20 minutes.QJ‑4, ul. Służbowa 8, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance, seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00. January - April 2016

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Arrival & Transport CAR RENTAL Avis, the global leader in car rentals, offer short and long rental cars, vans and chauffeur driven vehicles, including everything from small city cars to shared vans. Over 1,000 models are available with all equipped with air conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure both comfort and safety. Flexible terms of cooperation from experts in professionalism, convenience and safety. City centre location. Also available at the airport upon request.QD‑4, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź), tel. (+48) 607 03 63 08, www.avis.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Sat, Sun open on request. AUTO MIESZEK Full range of Ford cars available for rental in 1-2 day increments, 3-4, 5-7 and longer periods. Transits and combis also on offer, as well as online booking.QF‑5, ul. Obywatelska 181, tel. (+48) 601 68 96 05, www.mieszek. com.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun open on request. EUROPCAR Europcar is one of the biggest car rental companies and offers eight different categories of vehicles to choose from. The airport location makes it easy to nab a car and dash.QH‑2, ul. Gen. Stanisława Maczka 35 (Airport), tel. (+48) 42 253 14 04, www.europcar.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Outside of these hours open by prior arrangement. HERTZ Also at Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport (open daily 08:00 - 22:00). tel. (+48) 42 686 60 01.QC‑6, Al. Kościuszki 68 (Hotel Światowit), tel. (+48) 42 636 46 39, www.hertz. com.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun open on request.

TAXIS Taxis in Łódź are generally trustworthy although you should guard against unscrupulous drivers by going for taxis which have clearly displayed prices (normally found in the rear passenger window). As a yardstick rates should be around 6zł the moment you get in and then around 2zł per kilometre. You should expect to pay approximately 50% more at night and on Sundays and public holidays. A standard day fair to/from the airport from the centre of Łódź will cost around 30-40zł. MERC RADIO TAXIQtel. (+48) 42 650 50 50, www.taxi-merc.com.pl. MPT TAXIQD‑4, tel. (+48) 42 191 91, www.19191.org. TAXI 400 400Qtel. (+48) 42 640 04 00, www.400.pl. TAXI DWA DWAQtel. (+48) 42 196 22, www.96-22.pl. TAXI NOVAQtel. (+48) 42 611 11 11, www.taxinova.pl. 10 Łódź In Your Pocket

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City Basics FACTS & FIGURES

MARKET VALUES

Territory Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of December 18, 2015 based on €1 = 4.24zł

Longest River The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Highest Point The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra Mountains to the south of Poland. Population (2015) Poland - 38,478,602 Warsaw - 1,735,442 Kraków - 761,873 Łódź - 706,004 Wrocław - 634,487 Poznań - 545,680 Gdańsk - 461,489 Local Time Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Łódź it’s 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

ELECTRICITY Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If they don’t have one the best place to pick one up is at one of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of town.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public payphone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the call operator. facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread 20 Marlboros 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

9.20 zł 1.69 zł 23.99 zł 2.99 zł 8.00 zł 1.99 zł 15.00 zł 4.65 zł 3.80 zł

€ 2.17 € 0.40 € 5.66 € 0.71 € 1.89 € 0.47 € 3.54 € 1.10 € 0.90

English, German and Russian speakers have the option of using separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, of which a comprehensive list can be found in the directory section. If you’ve run out of money, however, then silly you. No embassy will bail you out, and and your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for anywhere displaying the Western Union logo. For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section at the back of this guide.

LAW & ORDER In general Lodz is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets working tram and bus routes by the train stations. If you’re in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1, 2016 January 6, 2016 March 27, 2016 March 28, 2016

New Year’s Day Three Kings Easter Sunday Easter Monday January - April 2016

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City Basics LANGUAGE SMARTS Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Many are also adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding. Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal, often resulting in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Łódź and may even win you friends and admirers. On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... I’m from England. Do you speak English? I don’t speak Polish. I don’t understand. Two beers, please. Cheers! Where are the toilets? You are beautiful. I love you. Please take me home. Call me!

Mam na imię... Jestem z Anglii Czy mówisz po angielsku? Nie mówię po polsku. Nie rozumiem. Dwa piwa proszę. Na zdrowie! Gdzie są toalety? Jesteś piękna. Kocham cię. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu. Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…) (Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?) (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) (Dvah peevah prosheh.) (Nah zdrovyeh!) (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Airport Train station Bus station One ticket to…

Lotnisko Dworzec PKP Dworzec PKS Jeden bilet do…

(Lot-nees-ko) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)

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the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned state company MPT (tel. 42 191 91) is possibly the best bet, and their switchboard features English speaking operators. The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train stations are by and large harmless and easily ignored. Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Lodz’s premier drunk tank (ul. Kilińskiego 232), which unlike other cities is a rehabilitation clinic for addicts that can involve a 6-24 hour stay. The experience is free of charge and nets you a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those resisting arrest may well find themselves strapped down to a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest-style. The other well-known ways tourists can cross cops is by jaywalking. Local city police will quite freely give you a 100zł fine for crossing at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a visitor. In fact your non-residency means you will need to pay the fine on the spot.

RELIGION For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II singlehandedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.

WATER Water in Poland is officially safe to drink although the quality of plumbing in many places can affect the water delivered to your tap. We therefore recommend that you use bottled water, which is widely available and inexpensive. In restaurants tourists are surprised to find a glass of water is not compulsory, and ordering some typically results in the receipt of a tiny glass bottle that will barely wet your whistle. Beer is often a better bet since it’s cheaper and arrives in larger quantities, but if you’re set on having water it’s best to learn the difference between gazowana (carbonated water) and niegazowana (still water). lodz.inyourpocket.com

Basic History BEGINNINGS Łódź first appears in written records in 1332 under the name of Łodzia. In 1423 King Władysław Jagiello grants city rights to the village of Łódź. The town remains no more than a rural backwater for the following centuries, with a population numbering just 800 as late as the 16th century.

In 1939 World War II begins when Nazi Germany launches an attack on Poland’s military posts on Westerplatte (now part of Gdańsk). Łódź holds out until September 8 and is annexed into the Reich in November of the same year. The northern part of the city is turned into a ghetto, with approximately 200,000 Jews confined within its walls, of which only around 900 are thought to have survived the ghetto’s liquidation in 1944. The city is liberated on January 18, 1945 by the Red Army. The pre-war population is decimated with an estimated 300,000 Jews and 120,000 Poles killed during the six years of occupation.

After the Great Northern War (1700-1721), Poland is more or less absorbed into the Russian Empire. The country will suffer through three humiliating partitions in the latter half of the century. In 1793 the second partition of Poland sees Łódź come under Prussian control and renamed Lodsch.

POST-WAR ŁÓDŹ From 1945 onward Poland falls under the Soviet sphere of influence. Business is nationalized and political and religious leaders are imprisoned. With much of the capital, Warsaw, in ruins, Łódź is used as Poland’s temporary capital until 1948. In 1947 the Communists consolidate a political monopoly after rigged elections. In 1955 the Warsaw Pact is created. Władysław Gomułka becomes Poland’s premier in 1956 and a political thaw begins. Events in Gdańsk are the first to rock the system; protesting about plunging living standards workers at the Lenin Shipyards call a strike in 1970, with the army promptly called in to intervene. 1978 sees Cardinal Karol Wojtyła elected as Pope and taking the name John Paul II. The following year he returns for a nine day tour of his native Poland in what is regarded by many as the pivotal point in the collapse of communism. Preaching 32 sermons in nine days his brief return offers hope and unity to Poles, and lights the flame that will later explode in the Solidarność (Solidarity) revolution.

19TH CENTURY Napoleon’s march eastward sees his army greeted as liberators and in 1806 the town is incorporated into the Duchy of Warsaw. Napoleon’s subsequent disastrous campaign in Russia sees his troops return to France in tatters and in 1815 Łódź becomes part of the Russiancontrolled Congress of Poland. In 1820 statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisław Staszic starts a campaign to turn Łódź into a centre of manufacturing. The first cotton mill is opened in 1825 and in 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and Russia is officially opened. Within a matter of decades the city has grown into the biggest textile production centre in the Russian Empire. By 1870 the population has mushroomed in size to over 70,000. The city enjoys its most intense industrial growth between 1870-1890, during which time vast fortunes are made by the major industrialist families. Dissatisfaction amongst the working classes grows, and the city becomes a hotbed of socialist unrest. 1892 sees massive strikes grip the city. 20TH CENTURY The huge gaps in living standards between the rich and the poor come to a head in 1905 when the city is plunged into open revolution. Over 300 workers and protestors are killed as the Tsarist police force regain control of the city. By the outbreak of WWI Łódź rates as one of the most densely populated cities on the planet with a population of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre. 1915 sees the city come under German occupation though three years later the end of the war restores Polish independence. The city loses nearly over 40% of its population owing to the post-war worldwide influenza epidemic and a huge social migration of its German inhabitants. In 1922 the city becomes the capital of the Łódź Voivodship but the city’s golden age has drawn to a close. Łódź’s textile trade faces collapse after losing both Russian and German markets and strikes and civil unrest become a feature of inter-war Łódź. facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

1980 A general strike is called in August by the fledgling Solidarność trade union, led by shipyard electrician Lech Wałęsa. 1981 Martial law is declared by the Minister of Defence General Jaruzelski on December 13. 1982 Solidarność is outlawed by the government. 1983 Martial law is lifted in July and most political leaders released from prison. Lech Wałęsa receives the Nobel Peace Prize. 1985-88 Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev’s perestroika reforms initiate a period of liberalization, though economic crisis and popular frustration continue to deepen. 1989 Following more strikes Solidarność is legalized. Partlyfree elections are held. Solidarność sweeps the elections and the Communist regime collapses. 1990 Lech Wałęsa becomes the first popularlyelected president of post-Communist Poland. 2005 Following a long battle against illness Pope John Paul II passes away. An estimated one million Poles descend on Rome for his funeral. 2006 The Manufaktura shopping and leisure complex opens to international acclaim, marking the city’s social and economic renaissance. January - April 2016

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Culture & Events

Don’t you forget about Simple Minds headlining the Night of the Proms in March!

CINEMAS CHARLIE QG‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 203/205, tel. (+48) 42 636 00 92, www.charlie.pl. Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 10-22zł. N CINEMA CITY A state-of-the-art 14 screen cinema with all the trimmings. QB‑1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.cinema-city.pl. Box office open 09:30 22:45. Tickets 14-31zł. IMAX Fully air-conditioned, and allegedly one of most hi-tech IMAX cinemas in the world.QA‑1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.kinoimax. pl. Box office open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 20-31zł.

BALLET 15.02 MONDAY SUKHISHVILI GEORGIAN NATIONAL BALLET The National Ballet of Georgia was founded in 1945 as the Georgian State Dance Company, a Soviet-era name that was shed in time. The group managed to popularise traditional Georgian dance and music at such prestigious venues as the Met, La Scala, and the Coliseum. And now for a mind-blowing fact for all you Doctor Who fans: it was a performance by Sukhishvili Ballet that inspired Terry Nation to create Daleks - apparently the long-skirted female 14 Łódź In Your Pocket

performers looked mighty robotic?QE‑3, The Grand Theatre, Pl. Dąbrowskiego. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 90-210zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

CONCERTS 02.02 TUESDAY IMAGINE DRAGONS American rock band Imagine Dragons are currently on tour promoting their second studio album, Smoke + Mirrors, released in February of 2015 (and debuting at no. 1 on several music charts).QF‑4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7. Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 179-299zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00). 27.02 SATURDAY PASION DE BUENA VISTA Cuban artists Pasion De Buena Vista are returning with their signature brand of peppy Caribbean music that brings a blast of island warmth to Łódź. The atmosphere is like a breezy Havana club complete with saucy dancers and Latin rhythms - - it’s almost more like a vacation to Cuba than just a concert.QE‑3, The Grand Theatre, Pl. Dąbrowskiego, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 139-199zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00). lodz.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 12.03 SATURDAY NIGHT OF THE PROMS Classic meets Pop in this highly-anticipated event; the line-up for 2016 includes Zucchero, Simple Minds, Lisa Stansfield, John Miles, Jennifer Pike, Blue Cafe, and Il Novecento accompanied by the Academic Choir.QF‑4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.notp.com/ poland. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 99-399zł, VIP 699zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00). 18.03 FRIDAY MACKLEMORE & RYAN LEWIS Be it “Thrift Shop”, “Can’t Hold Us”, or “Downtown”, rapper Macklemore and producer Ryan Lewis have a real good collaboration going on. In early 2016 they’ll be going on a tour billed as An Evening With Macklemore & Ryan Lewis. QF‑4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 155-255zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

EXHIBITIONS 25.09 FRIDAY - 28.03 MONDAY CONSOLIDATED MEMORY. CENTRAL MUSEUM OF TEXTILES 2003-2014 GIFTS AND PURCHASES See 600 new additions to the Central Museum of Tiles collection, including archival documents, factory blueprints, book covers, folk costumes, textile-manufacturing machinery, catalogues, and a large selection of historical attire, such as an elaborately embroidered Baroque mitre.QG‑4, Central Museum of Textiles, ul. Piotrkowska 282 (entrance from ul. Milionowa), tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, www. muzeumwlokiennictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł. 09.10 FRIDAY - 14.02 SUNDAY HERITAGE OF TWO CULTURES For its 40th anniversary, the Museum of the City of Łódź has partnered with the Polish Museum in Rapperswil, Switzerland to present twenty-four works of art by outstanding Polish artists. At the exhibition items of artistic and historical importance will be presented, including works by outstanding Polish artists Joseph Chełmoński, Olga Boznańska and Julian Falat; as well as Lodz Jewish authors, Samuel Hirszenberg and Henry Glicenstein.QB‑1, Museum of the City of Łódź, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri. Opening hours are subject to change so consult their website for up to date changes. Admission 5/3zł.

What’s going on? facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

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Culture & Events 22.10 THURSDAY - 01.03 TUESDAY COLLECTION, CONTINUED Part two of a 2010 exhibition of works by renowned Polish artists from the collection of Krzystof Musiał, showing new additions this patron of the arts has amassed in the last five years. 32 early 20th-century paintings, pastels, and sketches will be on display at the Museum of the City of Łódź until March.QB‑1, Museum of the City of Łódź, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri. Opening hours are subject to change. Tickets 5/3zł. 10.11 TUESDAY - 31.01 SUNDAY BRIDAL ATTIRE FROM THE CENTRAL MUSEUM OF TEXTILES COLLECTION 19th, 20th and 21st-century wedding outfits - elaborate dresses and simple skirt-suits for registry office visits - will be on display during this small bridal attire exhibition at the Central Museum of Textiles.QG‑4, Central Museum of Textiles, ul. Piotrkowska 282 (entrance from ul. Milionowa), tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, www.muzeumwlokiennictwa. pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł. 19.11 THURSDAY - 31.01 SUNDAY KARKONOSZE MOUNTAINS - PAST AND PRESENT Though mountains themselves change little over the ages, their inhabitants, man-made structures built on the slopes, and - lastly - photography techniques vary from decade to decade. This photo exhibition tracks how the Karkonosze Mountains were captured on film one hundred years ago and today.QB‑1, Museum of the City of Łódź, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri, Opening hours are subject to change. Tickets 5/3zł. 19.11 THURSDAY - 31.01 SUNDAY ŁÓDŹ IN THE MOUNTAINS - MOUNTAINS IN ŁÓDŹ Poland’s third-biggest city is quite removed from the mountains in the country’s southern region; and yet, hiking, trekking, and mountaineering all started becoming quite popular with citizens of Łódź in the late 19th century. This exhibition examines the relationship between Sudety Mountains and tourists from central Poland throughout the 20th century.QB‑1, Museum of the City of Łódź, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, www.muzeumlodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri, Opening hours are subject to change so consult their website for up to date changes. Tickets 5/3zł.

MISC. EVENTS 17.10 SATURDAY - 15.03 TUESDAY ADRENALINE ACCELERATOR Survive a shark attack or delve deep into an abandoned mine in one of those trendy, poorly-named “howevermany-dimensions” simulators with sound, smell, water 16 Łódź In Your Pocket

lodz.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

spray, breeze, and temperature effects. The Adrenaline Accelerator will be available at Manufaktura until March. QA/B‑1, Manufaktura Shopping Gallery, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 89, www.manufaktura.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Tickets 8-20zł. 08.04 FRIDAY MUSIC PARADE This indoor parade-style show comprises performances by international military orchestras, marching bands, and pipes and drums ensembles - totalling over 350 performers. QF‑4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 199-249zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

PHILHARMONIC 24.04 SUNDAY CAMERISTI DELLA SCALA Cameristi della Scala are a chamber orchestra formed by members of Teatro alla Scala, whose repertoire includes lots of lesser-known or mostly-forgotten pieces from 19th century Italy.QE‑3, The Grand Theatre, Pl. Dąbrowskiego, www.makroconcert.com/ pl. Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 159-199zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00). facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

SPORT 05.02 FRIDAY PEDRO’S CUP 2016 It’s the twelfth edition of the athletics competition that chooses to advertise with an athlete pole vaulting over a cup of Pedro’s coffee. The events will include a 60 metre dash, 60 metre hurdles, shot put, high jump, and indeed pole vaulting; the first 5000 people to purchase a ticket will also get a package of Pedro’s Active (no joke).QF‑4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.pedroscup.pl. Event starts at 17:00. Tickets 20zł. Available at www.ebilet.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00). 12.04 TUESDAY MONSTER X TOUR Hell yeah, monster trucks! Lots of horsepower, loads of acrobatics, burned fuel, and crushed cars, ridiculous suspensions and very tasteful flame designs - what more do you need? Monster Truck Entertainment (the largest independent American producer of motor-sport events) is bringing big-tire action to Łódź, Kraków, and Gdańsk. There will be motorcycle stunts as well!QF‑4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.makroconcert.com/ pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00). January - April 2016

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Restaurants

Behind the scenes at Bawełna, one of Łódź’s rising stars.

You need to approach the Łódź restaurant scene with an openness and understanding that the gastronomy industry is still quite young. That doesn’t mean there’s not some absolute gems, but you may have to wade through some murky waters to find them. Just to note - we do approximate price ranges for you but they are subject to change, naturally. Likewise the opening hours in Łódź are rather a mere suggestion; don’t be put off if the doors are closed during a slow day but conversely you can expect the chefs and staff to power through regardless of the late hour come a busy night service. SPLURGE Although it may not seem it on the outside Irish Pub is a more upmarket watering hole than most, and has excellent food to match. Tango will give you the best steak in Lodz guaranteed - the luxury does match the pricing. KIDS As awkward and slightly intimidating as OFF Piotrkowska may be for families, Spółdzielnia offers sanctuary in the form of an impressive outdoor kids area with tables nearby for parents. COUPLES The new kid on the block MOTYWY is a strong choice for dates as it lacks that uncomfortable snobiness and instead provides inventive menus and inviting interiors. Ato Sushi could easily be called the best restaurant in the city and the interactive playfulness of sushi will always be a cute first dater. 18 Łódź In Your Pocket

EXOTIC Istanbul Tajmahal has recently been catapulted into local fame simply because its food speaks for itself - for both carnivores and vegetarians alike. Tari Bari in OFF Piotrkowska offers quite a wide variety of foods and its diversity stands tall and opens itself up for really great food and categorial interpretation. Złota Kaczka needs to be checked out, because it fails to do what every other ‘asian’ place in the city does - cause indigestion and guilt. Thankfully. LADS Esplanada’s ‘lad-ness’ can be summed up by its Monday beer offers and ridiculous food portions. Surprisingly the quality does match the quantity on most occasions. Breadnia’s large tables and great food (not to mention the frequency of gorgeous girls) makes it a great place for guys on the town. LOCAL Try Manekin if you want a sense of what Polish people are actually eating, and Chłopska Izba if you want a sense of what Polish people are known for eating. CHEAP Italica, naturally being mainly a pizza joint, produces something rather inexpensive but in this case, hand on heart great. Check out Jaffa’s shakshuka (raunchy) as well for when you’re in breakfast mode. lodz.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants AMERICAN NEW GASTROMACHINA STACJA These guys have done it. Famous from their FoodTruck that used to stand at Piotrkowska 217; they’ve finally moved into a building! Centralised and well designed it has a best-in-town and impressive stance towards burgers. They come up with some weird creations that appear in weekly special form and boast a firm standard when it comes to the classics. Cheesus Christ Superstar hits a spot I didn’t know existed as does MegaMachina if you fancy a Man vs. Food styled challenge. The staff/owners also have a great non-hipster approach to it all, so don’t be intimidated. But remember - MEDIUM/RARE. That is all.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 603 87 31 37. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (10-32zł). 6­G­S

THE ONLY EASTERN EUROPEAN CUISINE IN LODZ

ARGENTINIAN TANGO ARGENTINO STEAKHOUSE Returning to Łódź from his native Argentina, chef Franco Cambareri vowed to bring a little part of home back with him. His passion for authentic grilled Argentinian steak and love of traditional tango music come together brilliantly in his glamorous little steakhouse. The finest beef is imported directly from Argentina, grilled to perfection and served up with his signature chimichurri sauce. The short menu really emphasises the speciality nature of the restaurant. The interior sticks to a classic look; deep red walls, dark furniture and a collection of tango based artworks/vintage posters brought from home. The cracking Argentinian and Chilean wine list is also unique to the city.QD‑4, ul. Traugutta 14, tel. (+48) 726 29 77 25, www.tangosteakhouse.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, (Children under age 2 aren’t allowed). (37-144zł). G­S­W

CHINESE ZŁOTA KACZKA Set around landscaped oriental gardens Złota Kaczka stands out as the best Chinese food in town, so it’s a bit of a shame you’re going to have to head out of town to get there. Your efforts to find it are rewarded by a top menu that far exceeds the glow-in-the-dark goo served in more central establishments, and if ever you needed evidence of this then snatch a look at their guest list. Previous diners number Robie Williams and John Malkovich, as well as a fair spread of lesser known Polish celebs and politicians. Ring in advance if you wish to sample the giant Peking duck for two. And don’t leave the kids at home; not only do they get their own menu but there’s also a special kids corner and indoor playground to keep them entertained.Qul. Rąbieńska 53 (Polesie), tel. (+48) 42 712 64 03, www. zlotakaczka.lodz.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (19-58zł). T­U­V­G­S­W facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

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Restaurants BREAKFAST

A typical breakfast in Poland usually consists of a cigarette and maybe a coffee or juice. Unlike some western countries, where the direction of one’s day seems to superstitiously depend on the ability to eat a good breakfast, here in PL the notion of ‘starting the day right’ with a fortifying meal just hasn’t caught on. In fact ask five Polish working girls what they’ve had to eat that day come 13:00, and you can bet at least three of them haven’t had more than a cup of yoghurt, claiming they’re ‘just not hungry in the mornings.’ Mm-hmm... Hard-pressed as you may be to find a proper breakfast in this town, fear not - they do exist and we’ve provided the details of the best below. Smacznego, champ. BREADNIA A great place to start and spend a lazy Sunday, with omelettes, fried eggs, muesli and other options, all accompanied by their fresh-baked bread of course. QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 86, tel. (+48) 507 08 40 07. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Breakfast served 09:00 - 13:00. (6-18zł). T­6­G­S­W LE LOFT Forget Disney World, Le Loft is easily the happiest place on earth. From the moment we set foot inside until we finished our garlicky salad, it was pure bliss (did they put Xanax in our freshly-squeezed grapefruit juice?). The staff is Poland’s least surly and most helpful, and the menu covers everything you could want in a cafe: breakfast sandwiches, pastas, obscure Czech beers, even hearty turkey sandwiches if you’re so inclined. The free wi-fi and decor supplied by young local artists in the dining room means there’s absolutely no reason to go home.QG‑4, ul. Tymienieckiego 20, tel. (+48) 42 661 61 75, www.leloft.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Breakfast served Mon-Fri 08:00 11:30. T­U­G­S­W SZPULKA Manufaktura’s hippest bistro serves breakfast of all shapes and sizes all day long. Go big with the full french toast, scrambled eggs combo or stay small with their FIT breakfast of granola, fruit, nuts and yogurt. They also have takeaway sandwiches and a huge selection of drinks.QB‑1, Manufaktura Rynek, tel. (+48) 42 634 24 72. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (12-25zł). 20 Łódź In Your Pocket

ZŁOTY IMBIR Opening the door to this unassuming little restaurant on a Friday afternoon we were astounded to find it packed! Initial suspicion regarding the two elderly and tough looking waiters in black shirts and red bowties were soon put to rest as they turned out to be that rare breed - old school gents and masters of their profession. Orders were taken quickly and the food arrived after a short wait. Not only was the service brilliant but the food was also some of the best Chinese we have had in a long time; everything was fragrant, well presented and packed with flavour. QD‑5, ul. Sienkiewicza 39, tel. (+48) 690 51 69 00, www. zlotyimbir.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (14-36zł). T­U­V­G­S­W

CZECH CESKY FILM RESTAURANT & PUB The first restaurant to nab a spot in the renovated Księży Młyn complex, Cesky Film is a bright, open Czech restaurant that takes its name from the film canisters and giant movie stills that make up the decor. It’s an appealing - if random - design, but our eyes were immediately drawn to the five taps of various Cerna Hora beers. Paired with the filling Czech goulash and hearty dumplings you’ll start to consider Polish cuisine to be light fare.QG‑4, ul. Tymienieckiego 25a, lok 3, tel. (+48) 881 40 38 88, www.ceskyfilm.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (30-55zł). U­E­G­S­W NEW ESPLANADA KOMPANIA KUFLOWA Once an upscale establishment with the prices to match, Esplanada regenerated as a Czech/Bavarian eatery with a beer hall menu and kid-friendly features like a playground. The draw is huge portions of delicous schnitzel, shashlik and pork knuckle (one of many Polish accents) complemented by stein after stein of perfect Pilsner. You’re guaranteed to feel like you’ve gone back in time, not just because of the traditional costumes on the wait staff, as the atmosphere is generally yesteryear while the presentation of most of the hearty dishes is is all cork board and enamel pots. Esplanada is a splendidly essential part of the Łódź culinary landscape.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 100, tel. (+48) 42 630 59 89, www.esplanada.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (16-49zł). T­E­G­S­W

EASTERN EUROPEAN SERVANTKA Servantka stands out as the first restaurant in all of Poland where our waitress followed up shortly after delivering our delicious Russian dumplings to ask how everything was. A small but revolutionary act we say. Servantka specializes in Russian and Ukrainian dishes, and the hearty solanka rosyjska soup can best be described as meatastic while the blini with caviar is a culinary trip to Red Square. The restaurant’s interior is impressively cozy, with heaps of flickering candles and a large fireplace.QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 55, tel. (+48) 42 630 75 45, www.servantka.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (18-65zł). G­S­W lodz.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants EUROPEAN REVELO Relive the golden years of Łódź inside this inter-war time machine. Diners are ushered to their table by cloth capped skivvies, and get the choice of various saloons. On the right side find a wood heavy room festooned with antique trappings, on the left a swish chamber with a penny farthing suspended from the wall, and young Gordon Ramseys waving wildly in the open kitchen. The menu is modern European and firmly established in epicurean folklore.QD‑7, ul. Wigury 4/6, tel. (+48) 42 636 86 86, www.revelo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (26-98zł). T­X­S­W

FUSION RESTAURACJA GRONOWALSKI The renovations happening around Księży Młyn are resulting in an influx of new businesses, and Restauracja Gronowalski is one of the most eye-catching of the newcomers. The two-story brick building features event space, a spacious bar (complete with smoking room) and a large image made entirely of thousands of Swarovski crystals. All of which means nothing if the food is bad, which is happily not the case. Try the enticing pikeperch on young cabbage rolls stuffed with buckwheat, spinach and gorgonzola or the sirloin steak with sweet potatoes, Pak Choi, sun-dried tomatoes and a mushroom-pepper sauce. Be sure to look up from your food, though, as Gronowalski received The Best Interior 2012 courtesy of Fundacja Piotrkowska for their high-style design.QG‑4, ul. Tymienieckiego 22/24, tel. (+48) 42 673 02 90, www. buddhapub.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-80zł). U­X­S­W

GREEK KAMARI Designed to look like a seaside taverna, this elegant Greek restaurant just opened in a new location and they haven’t skipped a beat. Everything is as authentic as it can get with even a Greek language menu and overly friendly and hospitable staff. The menu is a good selection of grilled meats, salads and Greek staples (even gluten free options!) though the star of the show is the fresh fish represented by lobster, octopus and calamari. Reminiscent of many of the tavernas you’ll find lined up next to each other in the centre of Greek holiday villages, with a cafe vibe that includes ample reading material for extended midday lounging, this is the perfect escape from the real Łódź world outside. QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 122, tel. (+48) 42 633 21 21, www. restauracjakamari.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (21-120zł). T­G­S­W

Full contents online: lodz.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

the best steaks

of the highest quality argentinian beef grilled in a traditional way by a native argentinean

ul. traugutta 14

9 0 - 1 0 7

Ł ó d ź

reservations: (+48) 726 29 77 25

e-mail: [email protected]

w w w. ta n g o s t e a k h o u s e . p l

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Restaurants art and film schools. Great place for a Sunday morning breakfast when the staff are as bubbly and friendly as in the evenings!QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 86, tel. (+48) 507 08 40 07. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (13-30zł). T­6­G­S­W

Smoking Lounge Live music every Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays Kitchen open daily until 24.00, at weekends until 01.00

We warmly invite you! ul. Piotrkowska 77, Łódź Tel. +48 42 632 48 76, +48 662 153 200 [email protected], www.irishpub.pl

INDIAN ISTANBUL TAJMAHAL Łódź’s favorite kebab spot has expanded to a freshly renovated full-blown restaurant with a menu of Indian and Turkish dishes that proves their talent isn’t one-note. The tandoori dishes are a standout, especially if you enjoy a mix of meat and vegetable variations like methi paneer and the vegetable cheese rolls. You can also get handheld fare like shoarmas and of course kebabs. Expect to encounter the owner, who likes to help guests choose the ideal Indian dish. And yes, you can still get yourself a signature kebab if you’re hankering for the old days. QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 88, tel. (+48) 42 632 00 96. Open 10:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. (20-39zł). T­V­G­S­W

INTERNATIONAL BREADNIA Breadnia wouldn’t look out of place in any major European city with it’s mix of italian pizzas and pastas and transconinental bistro fare. Try the mixed meat or cheese platters served up with bread from the on-site bakery or something from the bagel selection; the Karczek (roast neck meat) bagel with honey dressing and caramelised red onions is amazing! About 60 wines from around the globe are available by the bottle and the cool interior doubles up as a gallery space showing work by established young artists, as well as offering a launch pad for students from the local 22 Łódź In Your Pocket

BYSTRO A canny plan from the same masterminds that brought a bit of classy post-modernism to Manufaktura, with their bistros Bawełna and Szpulka. Bystro is situated in the basement level of the Zenit office complex so this time around their ‘guaranteed’ customer comes from office bods rather than shoppers. The concept is pretty clever; cool design with a slight canteen feel, home style cooking with a modern edge, a weekly planned menu offering a different set lunch (Monday-Friday), open for breakfasts, drinks, cakes all with astonishingly low prices. Although the office complex connection is played down, it comes as no surprise to learn that they close at 5pm and aren’t open on the weekends.QD‑7, ul. ​Sienkiewicza 82/84, tel. (+48) 726 04 70 00. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (1520zł). T­6­G­S­W DZIKA KACZKA One of the best dining rooms in the city and perfect when trying to clinch that big deal. A country club atmosphere is complimented by salmon walls and wood panelling while bow-tied waiters, soft music and important looking cutlery arrangements generate an upper-crust atmosphere. Head chef Marek Skrętowski is the mastermind behind the menu, and diners can choose from a stunning variety of cracking dishes. Highly recommended.QF‑1, ul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz (Stacja Nowa Gdynia Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 714 21 51, www.dzika-kaczka.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:30. (29-69zł). T­U­G­S­W FOUR COLORS Located in the brand new Łódź Hilton this luxurious and stylish restaurant presents an exquisite and original menu. The delectable dishes on offer are a selection of international specialities with a Polish twist like duck breast sous vide with duck leg confit, butternut squash puree, pear carpaccio and boudin noir sauce. Add to this a stunning and informative 100-strong wine list, including the magnificently titled ‘Wine Treasures of the Four Colors Restaurant.’QA‑7, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 36, www. doubletreelodz.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:30 - 22:30; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 22:00. (26-108zł). T­U­ G­W IRISH PUB Irish Pubs have a bad image. The promise of the mid-life crisis’ parked up at the bar; and the overuse of Jameson, green and shamrocks. But the food at Irish Pub Łódź forces you to forget it all, as it’s easily some of the best in the city. There’s an elegant, thought-about stance towards every one of the dishes - Steak (actually cooked to the temperature you want), accompanied by a glossy lodz.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

cauliflower puree, spicy bourbon barbecue sauce, charred onions and jalapeños, is a firm favourite. The presentation is modern and respectable yet not-snobby. Whether you sit in the garden, or the basement, the attentive staff will make sure you get hold of the good stuff. Guinness available on tap (duh).QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 77, tel. (+48) 662 15 32 00, www.irishpub.pl. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Thu 15:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:30. (19-70zł). T­6­I­X­S­W

vine.co/inyourpocket MALINOWA The flagship restaurant of the Grand is something of an eyebrow raiser. Filling an imperious looking hall this place has chandeliers hanging from skylights, and a ballroom atmosphere straight from the age of cavalry charges and duels at dawn. The style is fantastic, and the menu equally so with a list that mixes modern presentation with classic local and global tastes. This indulgence is no-way as expensive as it should be, and the steak well worth a look. For too long considered a middling hotel restaurant, the signs are that the new look Malinowa is back and barking business.QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 72 (Grand Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 633 99 20, www.grandlodz.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. (19-69zł). 6­U­G­S­W facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

NEW MOTYWY This swanky little joint is starting to make a name for itself. Surrounded by some of the citiy’s most popular/awarded restaurants, the fact that this newcomer stands out is truly something. With a tip of the hat to modern European cuisine, it’s really a jack of all trades. The continuously refreshed lunch menus are grand and their accessible bistro approach to fine dining means I’ll be visiting again. It’s one of those places that you find hard to describe, as with consistently well executed dishes you just have to wander through the door and try as much as you can. Kudos for being ‘different’ and offering the couples of Łódź a really special place (yes, it’s a GREAT date place).QD‑4, ul. Traugutta 14, tel. (+48) 42 207 40 69. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (24-55zł). 6­G­W PALETA BIELI A brilliantly bonkers interior with a number of quirky details. Paleta Bieli is a café/club which is difficult to define; bar, cafe, eatery (Polish/Mediterranean based), gallery, music venue with a mixed clientele at different times of day. Whatever it is, it achieves cool effortlessly. The kitchen closes at 10pm and the whole place takes on more of a clubby atmosphere with weekend DJ’s and a Wednesday night live radio music broadcasts. If you need to visit the loo, make sure you use the one behind the bar area and look up for an unexpected surprise!QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 603 85 14 12, www.paletabieli.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (18-40zł). E­G­S­W January - April 2016

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Restaurants DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego! (Enjoy your meal!) śniadania breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer PRZERWA It’s one of those places, you know - coffee, juices, lunches worth an Instagram, dinners worth 25zł, white/brick walls with wooden tables; it feels very Ctrl+C, Ctrl+V. The size of the area is impressive with advertisement attention put on the possibility for conferences and events - and with the food at Przerwa it would certainly be well catered for. The staff are switched on and the bakers deserve a round of applause - sipping a coffee here now, would I come back? I suppose yes, but in a bigger group - I want to try more, but sitting alone in such a large space is somewhat intimidating. Send help.QC‑7, ul. Wólczańska 128/134, tel. (+48) 42 212 33 30, www.przerwa-lodz.com. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (5-50zł). 6­U­V­G­ S­W RESTAURACJA KOLORY WINA Modern molecular cooking? In Łódź? It took us by surprise too, especially since this alchemic cuisine is only just showing up in the capital. But chef Jarosław Bieńkowski is employing molecular gastronomy at Nobo Hotel’s restaurant with pleasing results, though us naming dishes won’t do you any good since the menu changes regularly (and creatively). The setting is as exacting as the dishes, with red chandeliers and crisp white tablecloths giving off a mod vibe.QF‑2, ul. Liściasta 86 / Al. Włókniarzy (NoBo Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 234 14 61, www.kolory-wina.pl. Open 06:30 - 22:00. (25-61zł). T­6­U­V­G­S­W 24 Łódź In Your Pocket

RESTAURACJA U KRETSCHMERA Situated in the basement level of the trendy Hotel Tobaco, the restaurant is a stunning and fascinating blend of the building’s past history as a tobacco factory mixed with modern architectural design. The walls are decorated with ‘treasures’ discovered during the restoration of the buildingmetal plaques, tobacco advertising, plans and photographs from the factory’s 1920’s-40’s heyday. The menu is a wellconsidered fusion of flavours crafted from the cuisine of the four prevalent nationalities for whom Łódź was home: Polish, German, Russian and Jewish. Dishes are lavish and include beef cheeks with potato dumplings, beetroot, leek and a demi glace sauce and for dessert how about coconut foam on mango mousse. Exquisite dining in a unique atmosphere.QF‑4, ul. Kopernika 64, tel. (+48) 42 207 07 07, www.hoteltobaco.pl. Open 07:00 - 10:00, 13:00 - 22:00. Note that the bar stays open daily until 24:00. (32-62zł). U­G­W SPEKTAKL This lovely little restaurant and bar is tucked into one of the many courtyards off Piotrkowska. Their light and hearty menu is best suited for lunchtime snacking and late evening sipping by the bar. Order up a savoury quiche (ask about the daily special) or try out their signature savoury pastry pirogues. They also have a delightful tea and juice menu as well as plenty of alcoholic options once the evening starts to creep in. Head inside and nestle up to the bar in the colder months and look out for frequent piano concerts, it’s quite the spectacle.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 101, tel. (+48) 607 07 50 02. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (15-45zł). T­6­U­E­ G­S­W SZWALNIA SMAKÓW - SŁODKA NIĆ Hike down never-ending ul. Piotrkowska until you get to number 217, home to Szwalnia Smaków (The Sewing Room of Tastes) - note the old sewing machine built into one of the large communal tables. The recently expanded interior holds true to the popular Łódź formula of whitewashed brickwork, semi-industrial lighting and wall decor made up of art shows and info on local creative initiatives. Although they seem to be particularly proud of their excellent range of cakes and sweet things, their lunches and hot/cold dishes are a must - fundamentally Polish with elements pilfered from other world cuisines, this is exactly the type of food that has Europe excited about new Polish cooking. Qul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 603 51 05 20, www. szwalniasmakow.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00. (19-55zł). 6­G­S­W TKALNIA SMAKU The glamorous Borowiecki hotel extends the style to its restaurant and sizeable bar. Pair an end-of-the-day cocktail with menu options that change with the season and include fusion dishes as well as more traditional options; pork tenderloin with porcini mushroom and parmesan kaszotto, beets and sweet shallots or beef carpaccio marinated in capers and pepper, served with arugula and lodz.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants balsamic cream. The best part? The prices don’t reflect the elegant surroundings, so you can definitely afford to order the chocolate fondant with cherry and mascarpone ice cream.QF‑3, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 288 01 00, www.hotelborowiecki.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (23-47zł). U­G­S­W

ITALIAN ANGELO Owner Angelo Lombardi believes in authentic, straight forward Italian cooking. When that’s done just right why mess with it? The proof of its success is the hard-core fan base of this smart little restaurant and the fact that it’s been going strong since 2006. The regular menu is short and sweet and includes pasta dishes like pappardelle with porcini mushrooms, saffron and speck and the house favourite of beef fillet with green peppercorns. Monday Wednesday sees an ever-changing range of meat-based dishes and Thursday - Saturday it’s the turn of fresh seafood. A nice range of Italian wines start at a very decent 45zł a bottle. In true Italian style Mr Lombardi regularly patrols the floor, chats with customers and helps out in the kitchen. A jolly family atmosphere is heartily encouraged.QC‑4, ul. 6-go Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 632 46 39. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (18-79zł). T­G­S­W NEW ITALICA In an even more random yet centralised location than its sister Pomodoro, the fat Italian chef figure of yesteryear standing outside gives Italica hope. Not kidding. Italica is a well-established eatery, its focus is primarily pizza and for the love of all that’s holy try the one with mascarpone, prosciutto or their delectable onion jam. This is your chance to have really good pizza, or pasta, or secondo piatto - I highly recommend delivery though as it is your right to get down and dirty in private with at least 3 impressive pizzas.QB‑5, Al. Kościuszki 33/35, tel. (+48) 42 670 62 04, www.pizzeriaitalica.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (11-32zł). T­U­V­S OTWARTE DRZWI A lovely little Italian restaurant tucked away in a well-lookedafter and peaceful courtyard. The young and enthusiastic Polish owners/chefs, Maciek and Konrad, developed their passion for Italian cooking during their travels around the land of La Dolce Vita. The classic menu, featuring authentic pizza and pasta dishes, is kept to a manageable length with most of the products used in the kitchen coming directly from Italy. Otwarte Drzwi also features a proper woodburning pizza oven, a relaxing outdoor area, fine Italian wines and regional Polish beers. The whole experience is topped off by the extremely nice and unpretentious owners and staff.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 502 85 57 79, www.otwarte-drzwi.com. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. (27-35zł). T­G­S facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

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Restaurants PIKNIK Pasta wouldn’t necessarily be our first choice to take to a picnic but it’s certainly what this place specialises in; the menu includes over 30 variations of handmade pasta-based dishes. The designers have made a great job of making the long and narrow space relaxing, uncluttered and a place to just lounge around in. As a venue it also manages to juggle being a restaurant and having a bit of a clubby atmosphere going on. No one will frown with disapproval if you just pop in for a beer and a bit of chill out time. DJs throw around some mellow grooves during the weekend when the kitchen stays open until midnight.QC‑4, ul. Traugutta 3, tel. (+48) 662 33 59 34, www.piknikrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (8-55zł). T­G­ S­W NEW POMODORO Pizza. Just pizza. This place and its sister Italica do it right. In an unlikely location Pomodoro offers itself up as a gateway for the round, cheesy, decadent, slightly charred bottomed, wood-fired good stuff. Yes there’s also a menu with Italian fare which is respectable in its own right - but in a town congested with cheap, sub-standard, wannabe discs of dough, it’s a pleasant surprise to come across a place like Pomodoro pushing real pies. But remember, toppingswise, less is more.QC‑2, ul. Rewolucji 1905 r. 4, tel. (+48) 42 233 54 54, www.pomodoropizza.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (16-35zł). T­6­V­G­S­W PRESTO A firm editorial favourite. Cooked in a traditional wood fired oven the pizzas in this white-washed trattoria are cheap, fast and a far better alternative to the big brand pizza delivery empires you’ll find on Piotrkowska. We had the Mafioso - salami, garlic, peppers and chillis - and for once we were not disappointed by a chef skimping on the spices. The topping sauce arrives in a separate jug, allowing you to choose whether or not you wish to drown your pizza in red goo. Also at ul. Maratońska 67/69 (F-4). QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 67, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 83, www. pizzeriapresto.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. (23-30zł). T­U­V­G­S­W RESTAURACJA WŁOSZCZYZNA Not a name that rolls off the tongue, but in Polish it’s a pretty good play on words, so ask somebody to explain it to you! The Italian menu is kept well under control and runs to a few antipasti platters, a selection of pizza and pasta options and a few mains. Pizzas are available as slices, so no need to order something the size of a satellite dish if you’re just feeling a little peckish. The multinational team insist on ecological and fair trade products, as well as supporting local growers and suppliers. Our coffee expert says the espresso was akin to a lion’s roar!QC‑3, ul. Piotrkowska 16, tel. (+48) 887 69 69 22. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (16-36zł). T­G­S­W 26 Łódź In Your Pocket

JAPANESE ATO SUSHI Sushi in Poland is popular and the proportion of restaurants opting for this cuisine makes you wonder about how they can all survive. The typically minimalist design plays host to well-prepared Nigiri, Sashimi, Futomaki and the like. Prices are well positioned to compete, but the biggest thing in its favour is the choice of nicely-presented hot dishes such as crispy duck. These and the very tasty ramen with beef soup made our visit all the more worthwhile and there are options enough in the menu to keep you coming back. QC‑4, ul. 6-go Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 207 99 99, www.atosushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-60zł). T­V­G­S­W HOUSE OF SUSHI A new owner and chef have taken the reliably good House of Sushi to a new level of popularity; we followed a stream of customers to their courtyard space in search of the salmon teriyaki on the new thoughtfully trimmed down menu. The easy design involving pale blond woods, paper lanterns and a spot of Japanese calligraphy remains the same.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 42 674 00 40, www.houseofsushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (25-41zł). T­U­V­G­S­W SENDAI SUSHI Łódź’s answer to good quality affordable sushi. I’m surprised those words go together in this city too. With creative incarnations along with the classics, there’s some seriously solid sushi items on their menu. The ‘Spicy Tuna’ and ‘Coco Set’ are both notable. The rice is cooked with a good balance of vinegar and the nori sheets don’t taste cheap. The have recently expanded their menu to also include hot dishes. It’s a humble approach to a very glorified luxury in Łódź - so yes, it’s more than worth the walk to the South end of the main drag.QG‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 209, tel. (+48) 606 46 76 44, www.sendaisushi.pl. Open 12:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (20-50zł). 6­V­G­S­W SUSHI KUSHI A chain of sushi bars which started out with the idea of online ordering and rapid home/office delivery just keeps on growing. Of the four sites in Łódź, the Piotrkowska branch is obviously the handiest for visitors to the city. As well as a comprehensive sushi and soup menu, they’re big on promotions and open buffet nights (ominously called ‘Kamikadze Missions’). Those with the appetite of a ravenous walrus can’t go wrong with the innovative Kushi Maki XL - their most popular rolls but double the size. On the drinks front, try the unique Iki beer - a top fermented ale with organic green tea leaves added at the start of the brewing process or some choice Japanese wines. Also find them at ul. Nastrojowa 41 a (F-1), ul. Śląska 54 (H-5) and ul. Kusocińskiego 65 (F-4).QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 113/115, tel. (+48) 42 632 81 91, www. sushikushi.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (10-50zł). V­G­S­W lodz.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants JEWISH ANATEWKA Celebrate Łódź’s Jewish heritage inside an atmospheric venue scattered with prayer shawls, menorahs and general bric-a-brac, and don’t forego a visit in the evening, when the live music recitals involve violinists sitting on a chair suspended half way up a wall. A team of flighty waitresses take the orders, and the chef does the rest coming up trumps with a range of traditional Jewish dishes, including rather good goose. The addition of a banqueting hall and VIP rooms now mean that you can dine in private or alternatively at a single table seating 100 people.QC‑4, ul. 6 Sierpnia 2/4, tel. (+48) 42 630 36 35, www.anatewka. pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (27-68zł). T­6­U­E­X­S­W

CUISINE OF POLISH JEWS

MEXICAN SENORITAS MEXICAN AMERICAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Łódź should be bragging to the whole of Poland about this visionary Mexican/American restaurant and lounge bar. The interior uses traditional, earthy Mexican colours but blends them with contemporary neon lighting and some fantastic murals by local painters Natalia Anna Kalisz and Ewa Żochowska. At the helm is American owner/chef Jeff Unger, a man whose expert knowledge of modern and traditional Mexican/American cuisine means that we find authentic tacos, quesadillas and enchiladas sharing the menu with startling dishes like grilled adobo pork tenderloin with herb roasted purple potatoes, baby spinach and mushroom “hash” & orange-chille syrup. Don’t you dare leave until you’ve dabbled in the house margaritas, based around their own infused tequilas.QC‑4, ul. Moniuszki 1a, tel. (+48) 501 67 17 00. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (22-78zł). G­S­W

MIDDLE EASTERN JAFFA (HUMMUS & THE OTHER STORIES) Jaffa is a nice and simple affair serving up a range of Israeli vegetarian dishes and interesting drinks. They’re big on hummus and mezze dishes, but pop by early for a classic Israeli/Tunisian shakshuka breakfast (eggs in a tomato, pepper and onion sauce) or later in the day go for the tadżin (aromatic goulash served in a special pot). Keeping it all contemporary and slick the décor is kept to a minimum, with little beyond a small bookcase featuring a selection of cult books and comics and some Hebrew lettering prints. Also worth a shot is their ‘Mazel Tov’ - a vodka and date syrup cocktail.QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 67, tel. (+48) 792 36 60 13. Open 10:30 - 22:00. Closed Wed. (10-40zł). T­6­G­B­S­W KEBAB HOUSE Whereas its sister restaurant just up the road caters to a more downmarket clientele and features a more fast food style atmosphere, Kebab House’s flagship steakhouse is almost posh in comparison. Even better, where scores of Polish kebab restaurants nationwide leave one reaching facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

Open every day from 12 till the last guest Live music every day Step into our cosy garden... ul. 6 Sierpnia 2/4, tel. (48) 42 630 36 35 also at ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura) tel. (48) 42 633 22 77, www.anatewka.pl

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment. Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity). As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change. January - April 2016

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Restaurants for the Imodium, the dishes here go down a treat, and, more importantly, stay down. And now with added kid’s corner!QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 91, tel. (+48) 42 632 20 65, www.kebablodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. (16-40zł). T­U­G

POLISH NEW CHŁOPSKA IZBA The peculiar interior of animal skins, bear traps, and clay walls plays host to an authentic and seriously good Polish meal. The staff are some of the most attentive and professional that you’d find in the city and seemingly proud of the food they lay on the table - as well they should be. Get the mixed plate of pierogi’s, the smoked cheese wrapped in bacon, the sausages, some potato pancakes with salmon - treat it almost like Polish tapas. The staff will help you choose, and I guarantee you’ll have an authentic taste of good Polish food. Bring pregnancy pants though.QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 65, tel. (+48) 42 630 80 87. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18-60zł). G­S­W CUD MIÓD A fairytale restaurant that could have been built with Hansel and Gretel in mind. Here it’s all log-cutters furniture, flower pots and rural ceramics, with walls painted with the window views you’d find in a country cottage. Best of all, there’s a bar that looks like a teapot. The menu features some serious bloodlust, with lots of farm animals carved and cooked in various Polski and Italiano ways. Light eaters aren’t overlooked mind, and wimpy diners will find lighter dishes like fish, soups and pierogi all on the menu.QF‑3, Al. Włókniarzy 151, tel. (+48) 665 18 90 50, www.cudmiod.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. (16-40zł). T­X­S­W KARCZMA U CHOCHOŁA Lots of primitive wooden benches, animal skins on the walls, miscellaneous rustic crudities and a tiled floor create the right atmosphere for perhaps the best national restaurant in the city. The service is friendly and the food, including dinky bowls of smalec, large hunks of bread, venison, wild boar and a selection of traditional 17th-century puddings, is top notch. In fact, it’s such a shock to the senses that it comes as quite a surprise when you leave to realise you’re actually in Poland at all. Whereas so many folklore-themed hunters’ restaurants fail to deliver beyond the decoration, Karczma u Chochoła have bothered to get the whole thing right.QG‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 200, tel. (+48) 42 637 09 19, www.uchochola.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (9-62zł). G­S­W LOKAL Not content with being a snazzy, modern and unstuffy restaurant (check the new street art mural!) with an extraordinarily innovative menu, Lokal is also an important landmark on the cultural map of Łódź. The name was chosen to reflect their support for local produce, local art and local music - with the arts programme being as cutting edge as the cuisine. For something different in the light 28 Łódź In Your Pocket

bite department you should try some of the ‘plates’ (Polish tapas), just mix and match any number of items from the list. Those who know how to think ahead should go for one of the set lunches served Mon to Fri or stop by for one of their ‘weekend dinners’.QC‑5, Al. Leona Schillera, tel. (+48) 666 03 40 06, www.lokal-lodz.com. Open 12:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (20-62zł). T­6­E­G­S­W PIWNICA SMAKÓW Enter amongst the rather curious honey and beekeeping equipment shop into this American diner-esque restaurant with ceiling fans and chequerboard flooring to boot. The diner atmosphere was reinforced even more by the large group of American students chattering away in the corner. The concept is simple; offer up a range of tasty, well presented Polish lunch dishes, burgers, pastas and beers at unbelievably low prices close to University-land and watch the students flood in! All in all, excellent quality for the price but possibly best avoided if you are over 22 and don’t wear converse sneakers and oversized knitted hats. QG‑3, ul. Narutowicza 59, tel. (+48) 603 71 47 98, www. piwnicasmakow.strefa.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (15-20zł). G­S­W RESTAURACJA ŁAŹNIA If touring the Textile Museum inexplicably works up an appetite you don’t have to travel more than a few metres before landing at the museum’s restaurant. We recommend dining al fresco as you peruse the menu (unfortunately only written in Polish) which touches on Russian, Jewish, German and Polish cuisine. Our waiter patiently rattled off lunch options though, which landed us an undercooked hunk of chicken and formerly frozen fries for the bargainbasement price of 12zl. They also use their walls as an extension of the museum and host rotating exhibitions of mostly paintings you can even take home with you (for the right price).QG‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 282, tel. (+48) 605 35 39 19. Open 10:00 - 20:00. (12-35zł). 6­U­G­S­W ŚLEPY MAKS You’d never know it from the elegant pre-war interiors, but this is a brand new restaurant offering classic golden age “Łódź” cuisine. We had no idea that such a thing existed, but pouring over their extensive menu we were quite surprised to encounter dishes and descriptions that are tough even for the average Pole to decipher. Luckily the professional wait staff will help you navigate the appetiser soup, salad, herring, mains, sides and salads menus (drinks you should be able to manage). We highly recommend the wild mushroom in cream, goose and duck bullion and the rabbit in thyme sauce was delicate and was perfect with a dry red wine.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 881 66 63 85, www.slepymaks.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (32-85zł). T­G­S­W TEREMOK The classic Polish comfort food of pierogis is treated like a king at Teremok, where you can sample Russian and Kazakh versions (as well as the classic kind) for just the change in lodz.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants your pocket. Stacks of pancakes, both sweet and savoury, add to the budget options. They’ve recently moved down the street but the address is the only thing that’s changed. Also at Piotrkowska 36 (C-3).QD‑3, ul. Piramowicza 11/13, tel. (+48) 42 207 10 71, www.teremok.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (9-20zł). G­S

TEX-MEX MAÑANA Mañana is a striking place, with an eye-grabbing red accented interior and an open kitchen. The menu is limited which means it’s quality over quantity, right? Wrong. The seating is awkwardly spaced to the point where you question what to do with yourself. Branded as a ‘fast food’ joint, the food is not fast. When you do finally get your food, you’d of hoped that maybe a little more tlc was put into your dish. No matter what meat you order, it will be outdone by the bland shell, tasteless overused cheese, and the even more overused pungent coriander. The beef was meant to be cooked low and slow but has that texture as if it’s been cooked fast and long - think corned beef. There are also vegetarian options available. We really want to like this place, but the food, the staff and the overall unoriginality make it painfully hard.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 726 62 62 62. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (16-21zł). T­V­G­S­W

VEGETARIAN BISTRO KORZENIE Find this neat vegan bistro in the increasingly vibrant courtyard at Piotrkowska 217 - as well as a few cafes, restaurants etc. the courtyard is also home to the sporadic ‘Street Food Festival’. The weekly changing menu at presents vegan dishes from around the world, a non-corporate soft drinks selection, fresh original recipe juices/cocktails and cakes. It’s also the only place in town to feature seitan (an Asian wheat based meat substitute) on the menu. Formerly a print house, the interior is now filled with a variety of tables and chairs lovingly restored by the owners. A friendly and casual atmosphere where four-legged friends are also most welcome!QG‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 530 03 33 27. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Tue, Wed 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 20:00. Closed Mon. (18-25zł). 6­U­S­W ZBOŻOWA Strictly speaking we can’t call this a purely vegetarian restaurant but the emphasis is on regularly changing natural, healthy dishes using fresh seasonal produce and interesting ingredients with no additives. They also regularly offer seafood specials when available. The closest you’ll get to meat is steak and chips - a bean steak, that is, served with chunky celeriac fries. Soups, salads and freshly squeezed juices fill up the remainder of the blackboard menu, and the hip, bright interior is rather simple, uncluttered and attractive. There will be new ownership soon so there may be some slight changes to the menu and decor in the near future.QC/D‑6, ul. Roosevelta 7, tel. (+48) 885 22 28 85. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 18:00. Closed Sun. (15-40zł). 6­N­G­B­S­W facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

QUICK EATS The city’s main street, ul. Piotrkowska, has places all along it where you can pick up something quick to eat with no shortage of pizza and kebab outlets. For the best choice of fast food in one place though either head to the food court at Galeria Lodz at one end of Piotrkowska or the bigger version at Manufaktura which along with the biggest names in international fast food (MacDonald’s, KFC and Pizza Hut), you’ll find a good choice of alternatives of quick sit down meals. IN CENTRO You may hear some locals touting this place as the best pizza in Poland. An optimistic claim, maybe, though this is certainly one of the premier pizzerias in Łódź. Definitely a veteran on the local pizza scene, In Centro pull the crowds whatever the hour, whatever the season. Always reliable and comfort food at its best.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 153, tel. (+48) 42 636 99 92, www.incentro.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (19-30zł). V­G­S MANEKIN Put the drugs away, you won’t need any after stepping inside Manekin. Yes, there are a few oddly lifelike mannequins here, but the real brain-zapper is the interior, styled to mimic a pre-war tram. Filled with overhanging cables, pictures of passing streetscapes and rich wood panelling this place looks ace, and looks far better in reality than we could ever do justice. Yet the action doesn’t stop with the gimmick, it only gets started. If there are finer pancakes in Łódź we could do with knowing, though frankly we’d be hard pressed to believe you. There’s seventy plus to choose from, and these run from chicken curry pancakes, to ones filled with fruit, ice cream and other stuff we thrive on. Brilliant, brilliant, brilliant.QC‑4, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1, tel. (+48) 42 671 07 84, www.manekin. pl. Open 10:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:30. (717zł). G­S POZYTYVKA The slightly franchise feel of the interior may not be to everyone’s taste but Pozytyvka is certainly popular with a whole range of people. Students, business types and pensioners in their Sunday best all crowd in, attracted by the huge variety of pierogi and Polish crepes (naleśniki) on offer. In addition to all the traditional varieties, they also go out out on a limb with some pretty interesting options like pancakes filled with shoarma and kebab meat.QG‑3, ul. Piotrkowska 72, tel. (+48) 42 630 28 52. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Fri 08:30 - 00:30, Sat 11:00 - 00:30, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (7-26zł). T­G­S­W January - April 2016

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Cafés

It’s just not breakfast without a great cup of coffee.

CAFE JULIAN TUWIM W CHATCE ECH Touting the most unique design in town this place has a nutty cottage design that features teddy bears and prams, antiques and oddities, a piano guests can play on and most recently features a mural by Ryszard Paprocki (he’s a big deal). To call it original would be an understatement and it’s no wonder that it’s a favorite film location for Łódź’s budding film school auteurs. This cycle friendly complex is home to book signings and readings, concerts and exhibitions, there’s never a shortage of events to plug any conversation gaps. To top it all off you’ll find an exhaustive selection of teas and coffee - both the expected and the exotic. An added bonus: they now serve wine (try it hot) and liquor!QD‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 112 (entrance from Al. Schillera), tel. (+48) 533 21 80 03, www.chatkaech.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. T­6­I­E­G­S­W CAFE VERTE The little alleyway leading into the courtyard may not be the most attractive in Łódź, but Verte certainly is one of the quaintest cafes in town. Think of old local cafes in Vienna, Berlin or, if your imagination can take you there, a coffee house in pre-war Poland. Verte neatly avoids the ‘repro’ look of many venues which try to make links to the past. A true Aladdin’s cave of old and beautifully crafted furniture, antique decor and adding a touch of decadence, a selection of framed Witacy photographs from the 1920’s-30’s. The smaller room is also used for a programme of seriously arty photography exhibitions.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 113/115, tel. (+48) 42 639 91 29. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. U­G­B­S­W 30 Łódź In Your Pocket

CHLEBAK Sharing a premises with the Kawiks meat shop, the little bakery area is squeezed in by the door and is easy to miss, especially when it gets obliterated by the queues to the adjoining meat counters. It would be a shame to miss out though, as Chlebak sells some splendid natural breads, including traditional rye, sour dough and linseed. Their cakes are also proving very popular and it’s been a long time since we spotted a lemon meringue pie anywhere in Poland. Fresh hot and cold sandwiches using seasonal fillings are also available. The only improvement they could make would be to find a better space.QB‑2, ul. Zachodnia 67, tel. (+48) 785 99 89 65. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. G­S GRAND COFFEE This centrally located cafe is spacious and sophisticated with a true warmth that makes you want to consume the morning paper along with your latte. If the buck of stars was to finally gallop into Łódź, Grand could feasibly give them a run for their pumpkin-spiced money. With over 40 coffee beverages, coffee cocktails and shakes to choose from, deciding on your drink will make you think. Luckily they have a hand drawn pictogram that illustrates the size and composition of all their curious concoctions (banana & peanut butter shake!). They also have a decent breakfast and dessert menu that swings to the sweeter end of the spectrum (cakes, panna cotta, croissants etc.) Amidst all the foams and sugary treats the coffee itself feels a bit lost. While our flat white was only just good, the cafe itself is truly Grand.QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 72, tel. (+48) 696 38 33 87. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 21:00. T­6­G­S­W lodz.inyourpocket.com

Cafés LITERA CAFE Bringing together coffee and books has always been a winning combination and Litera has been at the forefront of this niche in the city for some time now. This recently renovated ahd relaxing café is decorated with a red colour scheme, giant wallpaper like vintage photos of Łódź streets and tables featuring maps of the city from various years throughout history is an extremely popular venue for bibliophiles, coffee lovers and fans of their fantastic homemade cakes. The café also plays host to literary events, readings and group meetings.QD‑6, ul. Nawrot 7, tel. (+48) 693 65 43 22. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. G­W MONTAG Tucked away in a courtyard behind Piotrkowska, Montag is a simple and stylish artisan bakery and café which specialises in the art of bread making. Ten types of sweet and savoury breads make up the products available daily and small samples are laid out on the counter so that you can try before you buy. Special edition breads are also made for occasions like Easter or Valentine’s Day. The café is one long, heavy wooden table surrounded by pastel coloured plastic seating. Enjoy a cake and a coffee while watching the master baker kneading his dough behind a large glass window. QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 608 63 25 32. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 6­G­S­W PRZĘDZA COFFEE/BAR Our ‘bean-hound’ was so taken with this specialist coffee bar that he wanted to keep it a secret, but what would be the point of that? The selection of beans all come from small plantations around Africa and South America, are roasted by independent Polish companies like Czarny Deszcz or Coffee Proficiency and arrive at the café within days of being roasted. Notes on the coffees in stock are available, or just chat with coffee guru Piotrek. Beans, aeropress devices and chemex coffee makers are available to buy. ‘Leafies’, are also well catered for with a fine range of exotic teas. Oh, and don’t forget the popular cakes which are made by Piotrek’s mum!QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 605 10 16 04. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. T­6­G­S­W ZET CAFE Being located in the legendary Łódź film school makes it the perfect place for budding young cineastes to visit. Plop yourself down, like a nonchalant Polanski, on one of the welcoming couches to enjoy their exquisite coffees, cakes (including Japanese and Turkish style sweetmeats), salads, sandwiches, light dishes and freshly pressed juices. The café also plays host to numerous talks by interesting people from the cultural scene and live music events.QG‑4, ul. Targowa 61/63, tel. (+48) 42 275 59 67, www.zetcafe.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. U­G­W facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

RICKSHAWS A relatively recent phenomena, rickshaws were first introduced to Łódź in 1993 and today you’ll find over a hundred pedaling breathlessly up and down ulica Piotrkowska. Most will operate on a fixed fee basis – any journey, whether it be from one end of the 4km street to the other, or just a short one minute trip, will cost 5zł (10zł for two people), though that will not stop enterprising drivers from trying to take advantage of foreign accents. To save on embarrassing situations it’s recommended to agree on a price before hopping on board. Rickshaws are permitted to stray off the main street, Piotrkowska, and can be driven anywhere where a normal bicycle is permitted. Do be warned though drivers will often use straying off centre as an excuse to jack the fare right up. Ranging from rusty-looking contraptions, to streamlined efforts with roofs, rickshaws present the most economic way of tearing down Piotrkowska and are as much favoured by locals as they are by tourists. Driven by everyone from super-fit brutes, to knackered old barflies, you’ll find rickshaws operating throughout the year no matter what the weather may be. Pedestrians should note that many of these drivers have a kamikaze attitude towards their job; if you hear a bicycle bell tinkling close by jump onto the nearest curb. January - April 2016

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Nightlife

The mixologists at Szpulka will shake up your night just right.

Łódź’s commitment to hedonism is on a par with Poland’s capital. For the unadventurous a straight-forward pub crawl down ulica Piotrkowska is the way to go, though stand advised some of the best drinking dens in town are found squirrelled away in the back streets and side alleys. Follow your nose.

COUPLES Another vote for Buddha Pub for cocktails that will make you weak at the knees. Couples that like to kick up their heels should check out the intimately-named Bedroom to shake their groove things among the city’s most stylish residents.

During the warmer months the streets, particularly Piotrkowska, are thronged with beer gardens. Once the chillier weather starts to move in the party shifts back inside and downstairs. For the most part you’ll be paying no more than 8zł for a large beer, and bear in mind that the opening hours we list are flexible: most bars will stay open as long as drinkers are drinking. Clubs often charge an entry fee, many of which are based on what’s on offer that night.

LOCAL One of our favorite local haunts, Chmielowa Dolina is your best bet for local micro-brews as well as the finer pints from Czech, Belgium and beyond. And Owoce i Warzywa Klubokawiarnia is the best haunt around to rub shoulders with the eccentric side of Lodz’s bohemian undergound.

Here are a few ideas depending on what you are looking for: SPLURGE Swig cocktails with the beautiful people at Buddha Pub, one of the most stylish bars in the city with the clientele to match, or visit SODA for true top shelf VIP treatment! LADS Check out the gazillion strip clubs that have popped up around town, including the veteran and reigning queen Magnes which promises extreme carnal delights. Irish Pub has a true pub atmosphere plus the delicious food from the dining room will keep you on your feet a we longer and ole Iron Horse is one of the manlier operations we’ve experienced in all of Poland. 32 Łódź In Your Pocket

OFF THE WALL Lodz has no shortage of curious locales. Lodz Kaliska is a legend, and the madness is hard to imagine until you experience it. And newcomer Shotme serves up some of the strangest sprinkle-coated shots we’ve ever tried. ALL NIGHTER If you’re still roaming the streets past your bedtime and still looking for some action, head back to ye ole Iron Horse for a few more guilt beers. If you’re looking to go high class in the wee small hours nothing beats the illustrious Loża Club to load you up for that champagne stumble into the sunset.

Where’s the party? facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket lodz.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife BARS & PUBS BUDDHA PUB By day it’s Restauracja Gronowalski but by night this stylish brick building morphs into Buddha Pub, a sleek venue that promises unique cocktails to enjoy with friends. The occasional hip live music gig and the stylish clientele reflects the city’s role as the hub of Polish fashion (we recommend you dress the part). The drinks menu is almost as dazzling as the sparkly “Buddha Bar” emblazoned on the staff uniforms, and smokers will be delighted to know the first floor offers a smoking room that contains its very own bar. They also have large screen TV so you can watch your favorite team in style. QG‑4, ul. Tymienieckiego 22/24, tel. (+48) 42 673 02 90, www.buddhapub.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. U­X­W CHMIELOWA DOLINA The unassuming shop-like frontage is easily missed, but behind the basic exterior hides a true beer monsters’ paradise. Small breweries from around Poland and the Czech Republic rule the roost on 16 taps, but brews and bottles from many other countries are also on offer. In fact, the beer menu is so vast that we gave up reading it after page 23! Prices start at a very reasonable 5.50zl and go up to a staggering 49zl for a bottle of Belgian Chimay Blue Grande Reserve. Snacks and grilled sausages are on standby to soak up the booze. Nice customers, knowledgeable staff and a smoking room... Perfecto Mundo!QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 123, tel. (+48) 608 36 28 56. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. X­W ELITE - WHISKY & CIGARS Housed in the famous Teodor Steigert townhouse (1895) with its stunning neo-baroque façade, you already know from the outside this is going to be one elegant and sophisticated venue. The interior fit out is reminiscent of the finest gentlemen’s clubs of bygone eras - heavy on dark exotic woods and sumptuous leather armchairs. The walk in humidor features a great range of cigars from Cuba, the Dominican Republic and Colombia. Currently the malt whisky selection stands just over 100, with the in-house ‘nose’ constantly on the lookout for worthy additions. Keep an eye out for their semi regular tasting events (you must sign up in advance) and live music at least once a month. Ideal for business meetings, an evening drink, or pop in during the day for a robust Colombian Dictador coffee or fine loose leaf tea.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 90, tel. (+48) 730 94 47 59, www.whiskyandcigars.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. U­E­X­W FOTO CAFE 102 Long before Łódź really took off 102 was considered one of the edgiest places in town - and it still is thanks to a crack bar staff that knows how to mix a mean cocktail and won’t make you feel like a fool if you don’t know your Jim from your Jack. This spot has atmosphere in spades and it spills out into the well-trodden courtyard on the weekends. facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

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Nightlife Inside, arty photos cling to brick clad walls, with wooden tables crowded together inside a low lit space that is a great place to creep into as the witching hour approaches. The self-service bar brings with it the spoils of democracy, and once you muscle your way to the front, do yourself a favour and ask Bartek to mix you a drink, he’ll set you straight. QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 502 66 01 21, www. fotocafe102.pl. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. X­W GOLDEN BAR As far as hotel bars go, this one’s a cracker. The list of alcohols on offer is exceptional, probably more choice than in Oliver Reed’s drinks cabinet! The whisky/whiskey list alone comprises over 119 different bottles, including some special offerings such as the Ardbeg Corryvreckan - a true peaty monster of a malt. The cocktails range features classic and signature concoctions to satisfy every craving. Topping it all off, there’s a great list of American and Asian dishes to choose from, everything from snacks to mains. The efficient, amiable staff are extremely attentive creating a thoroughly relaxing ambience overall. We’ll leave the last word to a foreign businessman we chatted to before we headed off into the night, “Why bother going anywhere else?”.QA‑7, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 36, www.doubletreelodz.pl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. U­G­W IRISH PUB A staple of the Łódź scene since 1994, the Irish Pub on ul. Piotrkowska is under new ownership and they made a lot of big changes. Upstairs remains an old style bar with a strong naval theme and a warm pub atmosphere, whereas the basement bar and restaurant has undergone a complete overhaul with a splendid mix of modern and traditional elements; private cubicles, open fireplaces and a choice of rooms hint at 19th century ‘People’s Palaces’ with an up to date twist. The introduction of around 50 fine malts, a new seasonally changing menu, regular live music and its famous courtyard garden will guarantee its ongoing popularity. QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 77, tel. (+48) 662 15 32 00, www. irishpub.pl. Open 15:00 - 23:30, Thu 15:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 01:30, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. I­E­X­W ŁÓDŹ KALISKA Three levels of carnage inside the most famous bar in town. Featuring a slanty bar, glass floors and an industrial design of exposed pipes and steel stairwells this is a must-visit, with a crowd that covers all bases - from important looking expats to theatre ponces courting students half their age. Explore the ground floor, where the weird art minds behind ŁK have opted for a design with clearly one thing on their mind - breasts, and in particular the bare boobs of Victorian era battlepigs. Kudos to that. Things aren’t any more sensible upstairs, where potty DJs mix unmixable genres to the baying howls of an appreciative audience.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 42 630 69 55, www.klub. lodzkaliska.pl. Open 15:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:30 - 06:00. U­X­W 34 Łódź In Your Pocket

MAGAZYN 82 A spacious watering hole whose slightly sombre brickwork and dark woods are brightened up by the blonde tables and back-lit bottles of colourful liquids behind the bar. In the evenings a Cheers-like atmosphere prevails, with lots of laughter and happy banter between the customers and staff. A short menu of burgers, bar snacks and salads is available once the munchies kick in, while four flat screens beam live sports events around the bar, with the customers and staff particularly committed to watching 22 men kicking a ball around a patch of grass.QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 82, tel. (+48) 42 633 06 43. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. G­W NIEBOSTAN Clamber up the iron staircase plonked in the middle of the courtyard and head towards the heavy door at the end of the walkway. This in itself is rather apt - the name Niebostan translates as State of Heaven, so think of the entrance as an industrial Stairway to Heaven with a factory-like Pearly Gates. The café describes itself as ‘Percentages, Letters and Sounds’ - so that’s booze, books and music. A slightly older arty crowd means that they can side swerve the ‘hipster’ tag associated with much of the competition. A great range of beers, regular events, gigs and the ramshackle bookshop area make it one of the most talked about cultural spots in Łódź. Watch your step in the courtyard, it’s a popular spot for city centre dog owners to let their pooches relieve themselves!QC‑3, ul. Piotrkowska 17, tel. (+48) 510 02 24 58. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. E­G­W PIWOTEKA NARODOWA Run by the same folks who operate the specialty beer store down the street, Piwoteka Narodowa is where serious beer drinkers set up shop. The interior is dark and very man-cave: think beer paraphernalia on the walls and jumbled tables of drinkers. The bar itself is what will illicit immediate awe: bottle upon bottle of the best Europe has to offer, from Czech to Belgium and Polish to Danish - all that separates you is a bottle opener.QC‑5, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 679 69 10, www.piwotekanarodowa.pl. Open 14:00 24:00. G­W Z INNEJ BECZKI There ought to be a law stating that all beer aficionados MUST visit this fantastic bar! Not only does it serve up a great selection of ever-changing Polish and international craft beers from 13 beer taps (and one tap with kvass!), it’s also one of the most stunning venues to sip brews in the city. Situated in the lower level of the famous Meyer Villa (1887), the bar is entered via the beautiful multi-levelled sunken garden area and the design has taken its influences from classic bars of the 1920’s - 50’s. The also make great coffees and have delicious sandwiches and light fare plus they have an exhibition space and regular live music of a lo-fi acoustic and jazzy nature. From another barrel indeed!QC‑4, ul. Moniuszki 6, tel. (+48) 720 13 13 13. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. E­G­W lodz.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife CLUBS ABRACADABRA DA CLUB The name hurts - we know. Joined at the hip to its partner in crime SODA; Abracadabra is a plush living-room felt dancehall catering to the more upmarket clientele of Łódź. A cocktail wouldn’t go amiss while watching the dance floor fill up on a Saturday night with those 90’s hits we all sing along to when no one is watching. It seems the 1st place in Łódź where the over 21 policy is taken to heart- it’s a playground for grown ups.QD‑5, Pl. Komuny Paryskiej 6, tel. (+48) 698 34 53 45. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. G NEW ALL STAR KLUBOKAWIARNIA We’re kind of on the fence about All Star - it’s like one of those student union hangouts that you’re just hoping that weird group of seniors aren’t at. Similar to what you’d find at Off or Niebostan, but down at Piotrkowska 217. They have a packed concert and event schedule plus a pretty standard selection of cocktails and array of spirits on offer to go along with the a standard beer selection. Bare in mind though, drinking a cocktail down here seems almost blasphemous. Come summer time though, they have a grassy area nearby and occasionally a little BBQ setup so it’s worth dragging a couple of friends down there for the ‘chill of it all’.QG‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 723 78 16 00. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. E­G NEW BAJKA DISCO CLUB Where do we begin...? A full on Disco Polo (a sort of Polish, mainstream weird techno) club that generally attracts a more mature clientele. It’s located where two clubs have failed in the past, but this place shows no signs of following suit. It’s always packed. The staff are actually worthy of note as well, which is rare for a nightclub - and the ease of it all is a bit refreshing. On the other hand, there is a level of tackiness about it that makes you just stand back wideeyed, in disbelief. Before heading there make sure you Google ‘Disco Polo’ because the written word just doesn’t have that thumping, synth-crunching impact.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 90, tel. (+48) 530 53 05 81. Open Fri 20:00 04:00 and Sat 20:00 - 05:00 only. G BEDROOM Polish clubland has been enjoying a bit of an Asian makeover in recent years, and what better evidence than the arrival of this landmark club. Set with eastern icons, curtained off booths, and a red-lit cubic bar this place is the best news Łódź clubbing has had for a while - not that this city has been short of that. Demonstrating the city’s refusal to be outshone by Warsaw, the newly redesigned Bedroom looks a million bucks and you’ll find a cast of slim-shaped hip wigglers slouched on deep sofas and doing their thing to a music policy clearly influenced by the more fashionable sounds coming from the orient. Check their FB page for their full upcoming concert program.QC‑4, ul. Moniuszki 4a, tel. (+48) 607 60 99 99, www.bedroom.com. pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 04:30. E­G facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

Smoking Lounge Live music every Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays Kitchen open daily until 24.00, at weekends until 01.00

We warmly invite you! ul. Piotrkowska 77, Łódź Tel. +48 42 632 48 76, +48 662 153 200 [email protected], www.irishpub.pl

CLUB SHISHA SAHARA Ceiling drapes, Persian rugs and even a burbling fountain lend Sahara an atmosphere of almost overwhelming cheese. We love it, and not just for the sofas that more resemblant of beds. Hit them on weekends, when the party stretches till daybreak in this meandering space of multiple bars and dancefloors. Check out their new location on ul. Zamkowa 4, Pabianice.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 143, tel. (+48) 530 36 36 63, www.sahara-club.com. Open 15:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. X­W

vine.co/inyourpocket CZEKOLADA It’s gotten significantly harder to make fun of Czekolada, former home of leopard carpeting and other questionable design decisions, after a recent renovation has made it - dare we say - classy. Fortunately, it’s only the appearance that has grown up as the crowd is still students, and their clothes are still microscopic. We stumbled on what appeared to be a casino night, one of the many themes the club uses to keep things interesting (we’re curious about what “Girls, Girls, Girls” entails). Claw your way onto the new dance floor and embrace Czekolada without embarrassment.QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 55, tel. (+48) 663 56 63 44, www.klubczekolada.com. Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. U­G­W January - April 2016

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Nightlife GLOW CLUB The latest attempt to turn this city centre venue into a club which will stay the course appears to be off to a good start. The interior sticks to a fairly stark grey, industrial look with the majority of upgrade cash being pumped into an impressive new lighting system and a 14m long neon lit bar. The smaller room places its musical emphasis on classic house, while the larger tends to spin a range of music including RnB, hip-hop and electronica. Top DJ’s from around Poland and farther afield, themed nights, professional pole dancing displays and a sauve glass VIP room.QC‑5, ul. Struga 8/10, tel. (+48) 537 12 64 85. Open 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. X­W KOKOO It’s bling heaven in Kokoo, an upmarket dance arena that’s filled a niche following the death of Coffees and Toffees. Dress to impress if you want entry before proceeding to shimmy and sashay with local fashion fatalities. If you don’t fancy knocking elbows and knockers with the hoi polloi then sneak a place in one of the side rooms. The DJ gods play electro, funk, chart hits and deep house on Fridays and Saturday on the multiple dance floors.QC‑4, ul. Moniuszki 1, tel. (+48) 695 34 66 55, www.klubkokoo.pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. U­X LORDI’S CLUB & FOO FOO BAR Since 2010 Lordi’s has made a name for itself amongst students, tourists, expats, locals, Poles, visitors, celebrities, as the place to go to have a night out. With a huge following and a guaranteed full club come Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights it is the place to be with the most of the most. With a separate VIP room up the metal stairs (Foo Foo), Lordi’s is the biggest club in the city and has hosted a number of International DJ’s/performers and Polish homegrown celebrities. You won’t find hipsters here, nor will you find anyone interested in good conversation - this a place to go crazy, let loose and enjoy a night in Lodz that only Lordi’s can deliver.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 662 36 63 66, www.lordisclub.com. Open 22:00 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. G­W LOŻA CLUB Lush, plush and for those who are, or think they are, flush. Loża has certainly upped the standard for club life in the city. Situated in a lovely old townhouse (former home to the Łódź Business Club) the owners have managed to maintain the feeling of grandeur of the architecture and style while simultaneously kicking the whole place into the 21st century. Part London Gentlemen’s club - with a cigar, whisky and billiards area - part fin de siècle Paris house of tolerance and part heaving dance floor make it all sublimely decadent! Guest DJ’s, live music, fashion events and burlesque shows add to the fun. Donald Trump and Snoop Dogg sitting in leather armchairs, exchanging hairstyling tips and sipping cocktails wouldn’t look out of place here.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 85, tel. (+48) 509 80 84 25, www.lozaclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00. E­X­W 36 Łódź In Your Pocket

NEW YORK - MUSIC CLUB This new live music club and cocktail bar is filling a Hard Rock shaped hole in Łódź’s nightlife and promises to be the go to venue for nightly live music, featuring the best of the best of local and international jazz and rock acts, plus good food and great cocktails. The spacious bar and lounge offers plenty of space to sprawl out and enjoy the show, but make sure to reserve a spot if you want a booth or table as they fill up quick. The American inspired menu offers delicious steaks, burgers, quesadillas and their top notch bartenders mix up delicious drinks and classic cocktails all night long. This may just become your new favourite club in town.QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 62, tel. (+48) 661 38 26 18, www.newyork.net.pl. Open 18:00 02:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E­X­W SODA UNDERGROUND STAGE Walking down the metal black staircase into presumably Sean Combs pristine miami-vice inspired Underground ‘Stage’, is an intimidating act. You dress to impress at SODA. The kind of place you pretend to know inside out while your friends gawk at the girls lining the side sofas journeying along the Cîroc & G.H. Mumm engine rooms and dominating central bar to the pleasantly surprising summer garden. Seemingly separated by musical genre’s, the two floors of lavish guests squander for a drink in what is Łódź’s new big spender’s hub. Ergo, Friday’s here are a must.QD‑5, Pl. Komuny Paryskiej 6, tel. (+48) 698 34 53 45. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. X

WINE BARS KLUB WINO Unlike beer, wine can be an intimidating drink; there’s the swirling, the elaborate pouring, the use of the word “mouthfeel”. Luckily none of that perceived pretension exists at Klub Wino, a new store and wine bar that makes the beverage accessible to all. Much of that spirit is due to the jovial owner, who is fortunately liberal with his opinions - we enjoyed hearing his take on the state of Polish wines and happy to make recommendations. The wine bar space is minimalist, with just bare white walls and wood tables to keep the focus on the beverage - - a club without being a clubhouse.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 602 76 96 99, www.klubwino.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. U­G­W

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT MAGNES Since IYP first arrived in Łódź, this has been the sauciest night out in town, and remains just that, with a cracking line-up of girls doing their bit for international relations by dropping their knickers in next to no time at all. The shows here are frank and to the point, and if you can’t spring for a private dance then the bartop shows are equally revealing. All this inside a typical strip club atmosphere, with plenty of chrome poles and neon slashes, plus a 30zł entrance fee. QB‑3, ul. Zachodnia 44, tel. (+48) 42 632 32 23, www. clubmagnes.pl. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. X­W lodz.inyourpocket.com

WE SPEAK:

LE DANCERS IN ŁÓD T PO Ź BE S

GO-GO DANCE STAG NIGHTS STRIPTEASE

THE

MONDAY-SATURDAY, 8 N E PMOP 4AM

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CCTV CAR PARK AMERICAN BAR DISCRETION

WE ACCEPT:

Łódź, ul. Zachodnia 44 www.clubmagnes.pl (0048) 42 632 32 23

Manufaktura

Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the 1950s (something you can read about in the Warsaw edition of In Your Pocket). The history of the site is one of fortunes made and lost, of war, nationalization and destitution. What you see before you was once a series of factories - all producing various textiles - that were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century. Designed by Hilary Majewski, a graduate of St Petersburg University, the mills were built in a red-brick industrial style, incorporating the occasional Art Nouveau flourish. They were the property of Izrael Poznański, a Jewish merchant who saw the need for high quality textiles on the eastern markets of Russia, Japan and China. As Lodz was at the time the most westerly city in the Russian Empire, Poznański was able to match western textile expertise and industrial practices with limitless access to eastern markets. It was a winning combination, and one that made him a fortune and put Łodź on the map. “Łódź was waking up, the first yelling factory whistle pierced the quiet of the early morning, then in all parts of the city others began to spring up ever more raucously and bawled in hoarse voices like a choir of monstrous roosters crowing their metal throats the call to work. The huge factories, whose long black bulks and slender chimney necks loomed in the darkness, in the fog and rain they were slowly waking up, belching flames of fire, exhaling clouds of smoke.” - Władysław Reymont, The Promised Land 38 Łódź In Your Pocket

THE PAST The first Manufaktura loom began spinning in 1852. Real growth however came about during the period 1872-1892, by which time more than 80,000 spindles spread over 12 separate factories were churning out high-quality textiles at a rate unmatched anywhere in Europe at the time. Poznański adored luxury - when asked what style he wished one of his residences to be built in he allegedly declared ‘All of them, I can afford them all!’ The palaces he built for himself all over the city are testament to his fondness for extravagance, but he was also considered a visionary employer. Łódź’s rise to industrial prominence in the second half of the 19th century saw the city transform from a sleepy backwater into a gritty metropolis bursting with red brick factories and a horizon crowned with smoking chimney stacks. As the population exploded suburbs sprang up, including poverty stricken rat mazes like Bałuty and Chojny. The more conscientious factory owners took it on themselves to build tenements to house their workers; Izrael Poznański provided 1,086 apartments for 4,043 people. Designed by Hilary Majewski, one of the architects behind Poznański’s award winning textile factory (it snatched the Bronze Medal at the 1878 World Exhibition in Paris), many of these shadowy housing projects still exist, and exploring their dark courtyards and flaking corridors is like a step back in time. Take a look at how the proletariat used to live by peering into the buildings that stand on ul. Ogrodowa 24 and 26, a couple of which are being renovated. lodz.inyourpocket.com

Manufaktura While his workers may have been squashed into tenements, make no mistake that their boss lived the high life. Poznański had the sort of egocentric, hyper-wealthy lifestyle associated with modern day oligarchs, and his palaces and mansions found around town are testimony to this. His HQ on Ogrodowa 15 was the benchmark of flash, and stacked with priceless treasures and frequently the home of high society functions. Designed by Adolf Seligson the L-shaped structure originally held a 770m2 winter garden topped with a glass roof, as well as landscaped gardens out back. As most other industrialists of the age, Poznański had his residence built right next to his factory, allowing him the opportunity to watch his workforce marching to work each morning. The man died in 1900, wealthy beyond imagination, and the ownership of the company passed to his sons. Poznański is buried in an enormous mausoleum in the Jewish Cemetery (some say the largest Jewish tomb in the world), a fitting testament to the true king of bling. Manufaktura continued to flourish, with many of its wares being shipped far and wide to new markets in America and the Far East, though the inter-war period marked the start of a decline as Łódź left the Russian empire and became part of Poland, losing most of its eastern markets in the process. Production continued throughout most of World War II though, after which it was nationalised, and renamed Poltex. The emphasis on quality was replaced by an emphasis on quantity, with most of the goods produced here - primarily cotton - being shipped off to the Soviet Union. The death

of the Warsaw Pact trading block COMECON left it without any real market, factories closed and production fell. The last textile worker left the plant - by then a rundown, halfderelict wreck - in 1997.

THE PRESENT French developer Apsys bought the site in 2000. Work began on transforming the crumbling mills into a multifaceted cultural extravaganza in 2003. The opening of the site on May 17, 2006 was therefore the culmination of more than five years of planning and construction. The results are stunning. The original 19th century brick buildings remain the focal point of the complex, having been entirely renovated: some brick by brick, with only the chimney stacks which once dominated the horizon missing. Director David Lynch was so impressed he shot part of his film, ‘Inland Empire’, on the premises. In all, more than 90,000m2 of red brick buildings have been restored and completely refitted. An equal amount of new buildings - mainly the shopping centre - have gone up alongside, while commie leftovers from the Poltex factory days have been demolished. The restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to file through every day on their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at the project’s ground zero: the Rynek (main square). In summer, this place really comes into its element, with a phalanx of beer gardens, an artificial beach and open-air concerts by international names. The natural reaction to Manufaktura is to be staggered; covering an area of 54 football pitches the complex spans, in total, over 90,000m2, and makes use of 45,000 square metres of restored original brickwork, fifty kilometres of electric cables and over a kilometre of metal framework. And what was already impressive on opening day has grown more impressive still. Added over the years has been the award winning Museum of the Factory, Art Museum - ms² which leads the line as one of Poland’s top galleries, and the Experymentarium, easily the finest museum of its genre in the country. Better still, the city has a hotel worthy of its status as one of Poland’s key metropolises. That’s the andel’s and can be found on the Ogrodowa side of the development.

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Manufaktura RESTAURANTS

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AMERICAN BULL An American restaurant set in one of the renovated, freestanding buildings just off the square. The menu and the service are as close to American as we’ve found in the city with an excellent choice of burgers, ribs, fries and traditional American sides. We’ll save special mention for the steaks which we got to enjoy with a free beer by visiting during the afternoon (they have different promotions every day). Cooked as ordered, served with excellent fries and fried vegetables on a wooden board and absolutely delicious. This is definitely a place we’ll be back to and well worth recommending.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 80 21, www. american-bull.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00. (20-80zł). U­G­S­W

ground level features an open kitchen (shoot me now). Head upstairs to a similarly designed area which appears more spacious, airy and features a nice bar. Try one of their signature cocktails which blends some pretty unique and intriguing concoctions of flavours. They seem to have successfully brought the cool ambience of some of the OFF Piotrkowska venues to the rather plush Manufaktura. QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 34 44, www.bawelna-lodz. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (20-60zł). T­X­S­W

ANATEWKA Sister restaurant of the highly recommend Anatewka found on Łódź’s ul. 6 Sierpnia, and though this place isn’t nearly as good it’s still a decent stop when you’re Manufaktura bound. Set on two levels this place has menorahs aplenty, lacy frills and stirring Jewish children’s choirs singing along to a constant cycle of Klezmer music.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 22 77, www.anatewka.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (25-69zł). 6­E­X­S­W

BELLA NAPOLI Italian-run place, and it shows. It’s all done well and properly, and there are seriously good things going on in the kitchen. Pizza and pasta are the forte here, with the homemade sauces worth the visit alone. The clean and clinical interiors buzz with custom no matter what time of day.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 632 76 50, www.bella-napoli. com.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (15-55zł). U­X­S­W

BAWEŁNA Occupying a grand corner spot in the Manufaktura complex, Bawelna serves up hearty doses of quality - mainly Italian dishes at surprisingly good prices. The interior is well fitted out with the de rigueur, neo-industrial/rustic look and the

BIERHALLE A blinding beer hall with outstanding lager that’s so good you’ll want to take it away - and the good news is that you can. Find the five house beers available to go in either nifty little bottles or five litre barrels. But there’s more to Bierhalle than beer alone, and the food is on no accounts second fiddle. Thump someone with the giant picture menu and they’ll see stars for week, though don’t resort to that sort of act without first ordering - the tortillas are pretty good, though our favourite is the sausage platter, served with an accompanying wheelbarrow of chips. A great place indeed, with both booze and food done inside a neo-industrial interior replete with giant vats that bubble with beer.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 632 03 76, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (2148zł). U­G­S­W

French Potato in Manufaktura

40 Łódź In Your Pocket

Photo by Mat Fahrenholz

DELIGHT RESTAURANT It’s the best hotel in town, so it’s no surprise the house restaurant is staking a claim as the best eatery around. Set to a neo-industrial background Delight has a naff name but a chef who is clearly a star in the making. It’s vast size means empty seats are par for the course, but that’s no reflection on the culinary talent on show. Expect perfectly presented, edgy cuisine that tastes every bit as good as it looks. The were the only restaurant in Łódź to be awarded 2 points in the recent first edition of the Gault & Millau culinary guide. QB‑1, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (andel’s Hotel Łódź), tel. (+48) 42 279 16 77, www.andelslodz.com. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 18:00 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (1467zł). T­U­G­S­W lodz.inyourpocket.com

Manufaktura

A GOOD ATMOSPHERE, NO MATTER WHAT STATE YOU’RE IN TRUE AMERICAN RESTAURANT IN THE CENTRE OF LODZ (MANUFAKTURA MARKET SQUARE). STEAKS FROM THE BEST BEEF, REAL BURGERS, A VERY LARGE SELECTION OF ALCOHOLS. COME JOIN US!

80-21 TEL. +48 (42) 633-

The besT sushi ResTAuRANTs iN Łódź

FRENCH POTATO French Potato does a good job of converting the humble pomme de terre into something quite interesting. Their innovative baked potato fillings are generally influenced by French regional dishes and include the Alsace - smoked sausage, onions, cream and salad or the adventurous Perigord - chicken stomachs, goose and mushrooms. Potato cakes are also used to maximum effect with their burgers appearing between two potato cakes rather than the standard bun. The environs are pretty swanky even for a place with ‘French’ in the name . Now you can enjoy your tater treat of choice on a sofa in their new chill out area. QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 09 99, www.frenchpotato. pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (1940zł). T­6­U­G­S­W GALICJA A slightly Laura Ashley take on the familiar ‘old Polish farmhouse’ look makes Galicja look more fresh and clean than most of the competition. The menu sticks to tradition with a few innovative twists; hearty servings of soups, pierogi and meat dishes. Our schnitzels were the size of a fried frisbee and the potatoes came coated with a tasty, slightly sweet sauce/dressing composed of various seeds, greenery, lardons and onions. Friendly, smiley staff and possibly the most attentive and genuinely interested manager we have yet encountered. It’s also the first eatery in the Manufaktura complex to make use of its huge cellar area with a bar serving up eight regional beers and regular folk concerts.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 55, www.galicjamanufaktura.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (15-35zł). T­V­E­G­S­W

vine.co/inyourpocket GANESH Ganesh takes their successful Indian formula from Piotrkowska Street to the heart of Manufaktura, bringing their creamy palak paneer and spicy curries with them. Shoppers can rejuvenate with crispy samosas inside a new two-storey interior that is all shiny sleekness and peppy Bollywood grooves. Also at (C-4) ul. Piotrkowska 69.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 634 12 13, www.ganesh. pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). V­G­S­W

sushi deliveRed To youR hoTel Room. GALERIA ŁÓDZKA ul. Piłsudskiego 15/23 Tel. +48 42 239 55 55

MANUFAKTURA ul. Jana Karskiego 5, lok. R-16 Tel.+48 42 634 00 60

www.hanasushi.pl 42 Łódź In Your Pocket

GREEN WAY Fast food doesn’t always clog the arteries, and Greenway are the proof. Serving up a range of salads and samosas this nationwide enterprise is little less than the McDonald’s of healthy eating, and highly recommended to anyone watching both waist and wallet.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 632 16 96, www.greenway.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (9-18zł). T­U­G­S­W lodz.inyourpocket.com

Manufaktura HANA SUSHI Hana Sushi are one of the most successful sushi chains in the country, which makes it no surprise that you’ll find it at Manufaktura. Very competently prepared sushi sets, served by pleasant black-robed staff in a modern, clean cut interior. Also at (D-7) ul. Galeria Łódzka.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 634 00 60, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (35-50zł). U­V­G­S HOT SPOON This delicious Thai venture holds the honour of delivering the most mouth-searing meal we’ve had in Poland (they’re not kidding about the ‘hot’ in Hot Spoon). That came in the form of chicken pad Thai, but the menu is awash in curry and noodle dishes that promise an equally fiery explosion in your mouth. The decor is sleek and straight from the Thai restaurant playbook, while the service is up there with the best - - our waiter seemed to know exactly when we’d be requesting that extra glass of water to douse the flames. QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 90 90, www.hotspoon.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (18-50zł). V­G­S­W LA VENDE Couples love La Vende, a violet/vanilla spot festooned with frills, shrubs and creaky wood fittings. Designed by a distinctly feminine hand this little gem has a healthy menu of salads and suchlike, as well as a wine list that really goes the distance. They’ve got the food right, they’ve got the atmosphere right; what’s keeping you? Also at (I-4) ul. Elsnera 23 and ul. Piotrkowska 76 (C-5).QRynek, tel. (+48) 512 12 07 67, www.lavende.eu. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (20-70zł). T­U­E­G­S­W MEIMEI A modern spin on a traditional style Chinese restaurant with a calming interior decorated in black, white and gold. The menu itself is a reasonable list of standard Chinese dishes. For something a bit different we suggest you give the fish and vegetables stewed in beer a go. A slight air of disappointment prevailed as the shrimp dim sum arrived and didn’t resemble the elegant presentation portrayed in the menu photo. Mind you, all was forgiven after sampling the near perfect dumplings. A special mention goes to the black clad, professional and perfectly amiable waiting staff. QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 636 31 30, www.mei-mei.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (24-36zł). T­U­G­S­W NORTH FISH Fish and frytki served in the closest Łódź has to a fish and chip shop. The food court location should serve as no deterrent for those wanting their fill of supremely cheap brain food.QFood Court, www.northfish.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (6-25zł). T­U­G­S PIZZA HUT Pizza for the non-discerning masses. Ten out of ten for consistency.QRynek, tel. (+48) 713 86 15 51, www. pizzahut.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (15-40zł). T­U­G­ S­W facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

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Manufaktura POLKA Celebrity chef Magda Gessler strikes again, this time in her native cuisine. Polka, which is so awash in poppy-themed décor you won’t know where to look (the poppies even climb the ceiling and grip the staff’s uniforms). Another Gessler hallmark is reliably exceptional food, and here Polka similarly delivers. Stylish Polish dishes fly out of the kitchen and include hits like crispy duck served with beetroot and traditional bigos stew (the menu calls it a “noble” dish). And while meatballs and fish sticks might not be strictly Polish, the kids menu gets a good workout at this familyfriendly venue.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 35 30, www. restauracjapolka.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 22:00. (12 -100zł). T­U­G­S­W

for each entree free beer with this guide

Drewnowska 58 C, 91-002 Łódź Tel. (+48) 42 630 09 99 www.frenchpotato.pl FrenchPotato

RIVERS OF ŁÓDŹ One question you might ask in a moment of rare contemplation is where the name Łódź came from. Well, it means boat, as in the kind that appears on the city’s coat of arms. But why the boat when there’s not a river in sight? It’s a question worth © Mateusz War, pondering. The fact is Wikimedia Commons prior to engineering breakthroughs this was very much a city on the water. In total the city has 18 rivers running through it, covering a staggering span of 123.9km. It was rivers such as the Ner and the Bzura that kept Łódź’s factories connected with the outside world, though over time chronic pollution led to a campaign to cover them. It was a process that lasted well into the 1920s, though now the buzzword is restoration. Already the Sokołówka has been given the beauty treatment, and next in line is the Jasień. The environmental project has so far proved a success, with trout spotted in the Sokołówka, and even a crayfish – granted, it’s not the piranha that appeared in the Wisła last year, but it’ll do for now. 44 Łódź In Your Pocket

RAJSKIE JADŁO Overlooking the entrance to Manufaktura’s main shopping hub, Rajskie Jadło has a clean and simple nofrills interior with the downstairs wall decor comprised mainly of photo posters of lunch deals and, here’s the big plus point, their super cheap prices. The menu of soups, chicken, fish and pork dishes sticks close to what we would consider ‘Polish classics’. Taking a peek along the hot-plates it’s also nice to see that everything on offer looks perfectly prepared and appealing. Considering it came in at the staggeringly low price of 16zl, our pork schnitzel with potatoes, carrots, cabbage and beetroot was better than some we have had at double the price. QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 636 11 11, www.jesc.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (16-21zł). T­U­G­S SZPULKA A rarity amongst the numerous eateries in the Manufaktura complex - a truly hip and contemporary bistro serving seasonally-inspired Polish fusion dishes in a modern, arty environment. All day breakfasts are a new highlight like a classic scramble with french toast or a more fit selection of granola, fruit, nuts and yoghurt. The downstairs is pretty much half open kitchen, half seating. The definitions of space seem to blend into each other rather nicely with wooden, glass-fronted cases showing works by artists and designers like photographer/illustrator Blanka Biernat. Also worth noting is a large wall mural by Proembrion (Krzysztof Syruć).QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 634 24 72. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. (10-50zł). G­S­W TAWERNA PEPE VERDE The decor of this three-level eatery can only be described as nautical, from the bar shaped like a boat to the life rings, sails and ships’ wheels pinned to every available surface. The staff gets in on the act with little sailor caps and serve up a range of Italian inspired dishes like pizza, spaghetti and seafood dishes. Everything proves to be tasty while at the same time leaving plenty in your purse to blow across the Rynek in the mall.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 98, www.tawerna.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). V­G­S­W lodz.inyourpocket.com

Manufaktura CAFES COSTA COFFEE There’s already a full-service Costa Coffee stand inside Manufaktura, but if you’re looking to enjoy the Rynek with a latte in one hand and brownie in the other, this new location offers ideal people-watching and spurts of the kid-magnetizing fountains.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 05 99, www.costacoffee.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00. T­6­U­G­S­W MAX ICE & COFFEE For those who don’t mess about with anything but the best. A mind-boggling array of ice creams served inside an informal interior that’s as popular with families as it is with girly teens giggling at text messages. Also at Rynek (Open 11:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00).QMall, tel. (+48) 42 634 85 84, www.maxice.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. T­U­G­S­W PIJALNIA CZEKOLADY WEDEL Poland’s first and most famous confectionary outlet, operating since 1851. The hot chocolate is their principal claim to fame, though their offerings extend to cakes and confectionary that have most Poles salivating at their very mention.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 631 00 36, www. wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. T­U­S­W

NIGHTLIFE BIERHALLE There’s many reasons to visit Manufaktura, but they don’t get any better than Bierhalle - a top microbrewery where the five house lagers come served by cheerful wenches wearing Bavarian frocks. King of the bunch is the award winning pils with their milk stout coming in at a close second. Inside, explore a vast woodcut interior and watch the brewing process in action while chomping on burpy beer bites like Nuremberg sausage.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 632 03 76, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. U­G­W

Read more reviews online: lodz.inyourpocket.com OSCAR’S BAR A strange bar is Oscar’s, not least because the actual bar feels so disattached from everything around; you’ll find it in the lobby of the Andel’s, with no seats by the counter and well removed from those who want to use it. Fortunately that’s not a problem: the staff are eagle-eyed enough to ensure your glass is never empty, while the post-modern design is like space ship meets factory. The cocktails are pretty decent as well, and could easily wipe your memory clean.QB‑1, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (andel’s Hotel Łódź), tel. (+48) 42 279 16 24, www.andelslodz.com. Open 09:00 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. U­G­W facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

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Manufaktura SIGHTSEEING

ENTERTAINMENT

ART MUSEUM - MS² A very impressive space located in a building that once housed a 19th century weaving plant. Home to both temporary exhibition and an impressive permanent collection entitled “The Art Collection of the XX and XXI Centuries”. The museum is home to more than 400 works of contemporary art and includes artists like Pablo Picasso, Tamasz Kasasz and Paul Klee. There’s a constant cycle of cutting edge temporary exhibitions that are usually world class. English translations and pamphlets available plus an art cafe and a cracking bookshop.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 634 39 48, www.msl. org.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibits 10/5zł, students 26 and under pay just 1zł. Thu is free for all exhibits.

ARENA LASER GAMES Laser-quest style entertainment inside an indoor labyrinth apparently filled with ‘surprises, traps and special effects’. A modernisation has moved the game to the first floor next to Experymentarium and upped the space to 350 m2.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 52 62, www.arena-lasery.pl. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 12-29zł. CENTRUM WSPINACZKOWE STRATOSFERA The highest climbing wall in Łódź weighs in at eleven metres in height, and over 500 square metres of climbing space. The walls here can also be adjusted to suit the individual, from greenhorn rookie to mountain ace. QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 34 90, www.stratosfera.org. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 6-30zł. N CINEMA CITY A state-of-the-art 14 screen cinema with all the trimmings. QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.cinema-city.pl. Open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 14-31zł.

MS2 Modern Art Gallery at Manufaktura

Mat Fahrenholz

MUSEUM OF THE FACTORY Of all the museums in Łódź you won’t find any that are better geared towards the foreign visitor. All displays are complimented with thorough English explanations that put the majority of Polish museums to shame. Occupying a second floor space next to Manufaktura’s multiplex cinema this spot is more than just a diversion from your day’s shopping. From the moment you pay your admission fee it’s a trip back in time. This small but perfectly formed museum offers a complete history of the Manufaktura complex, complete with 4 working looms, a steam engine model, various dioramas and even a tiny cinema showing black and white mini-documentaries (15 mins.) of factory scenes. Its packed full of peculiar facts, and a look at the boards reveals untold trivia - for instance, the story behind one of the original architects of the complex, Dawid Rosenthal, who was shot by militant workers back in 1910. The photo montages offer a vivid trip through history, as well as moments of amusement; check the pictures of the factory’s sports teams and bands. Take the trip up to the year-round viewing terrace (an extra 2/1zł) to get a birds eye view of the factory. Make sure to exit through gift shop, which features some English language books on the subject if you want to read more about this fascinating place.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 93, www.muzeumfabryki.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/5zł, family ticket 13zł. For an English speaking guide reservations must be made at least a week in advance and will cost 75zł. Guided tours in Polish 20zł. Guided tours included in the price of the tickets Sat, Sun 13:00 and 16:00 but only in Polish and for groups of 15 or more. N 46 Łódź In Your Pocket

EXPERYMENTARIUM Whoa, here’s a museum that makes science fun, and in a way that rather than ordering you to ‘keep away from the glass’, actively encourages visitors to ‘push’, ‘touch’ and ‘enter’. The experiments visitors get to play around with are the brainchild of Polish scientists and students, and revolve around ideas of light, sound, anatomy, nature and new discoveries. The space takes up 800m2 of the Manufaktura complex, and also features a wing designated for temporary exhibits from Polish and European institutions. Patrons include Łódź University and the Łódź Technical University. Your visit should take approximately 80 minutes, during which time you’ll wander a large open space filled with exhibitions. Currently the main exhibits are the Experymentarium Exhibition, which includes mad light experiments, a ‘cosmic tunnel’, an area devoted to developing your senses of smell, hearing and touch without using your vision; Risk, which delves into why we take the risks we do and how humans rate the various risks in their lives; and two other interactive modules - Biology and Physics. Always ones to keep on-the-ball, there’s a constant twirl of temporary exhibits coming through the place as well.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 52 62, www.experymentarium.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 17/14zł/ person - family tickets 40zł/3-person or 52zł/4-person. U GRAKULA Find three pool tables, 28 bowling lanes, a dance floor, a conference room and, best of all, a licensed bar.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 40 52, www.grakula.pl. Open 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. Billards 9zł per half hour; bowling 10-15zł per game per person, 49-80zł per hour. IMAX Fully air-conditioned, and allegedly one of most hi-tech IMAX cinemas in the world.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.kinoimax.pl. Open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 20-31zł. lodz.inyourpocket.com

Manufaktura SHOPPING Filled with lunar curves and a light, bright atmosphere the shopping mall side to Manufaktura brings a new angle to the otherwise red brick architecture. With over 9,000 m2 of wood flooring the mall is split into four themes - industrial, cinema, design and textile - so as to make navigation easier. Those arriving with their kids in tow should consider dispatching them to the crèche found just off the Rynek, close to the Bella Napoli restaurant. Flagship stores include Leroy Merlin as well as a vast range of brand name clothing stores like Hugo Boss, Hilfiger, H&M, Timberland and an Adidas superstore. In total 306 retail units are occupied, with other tenants including the Smyk toy store, EMPiK and EURO RTV AGD. It’s not just mega-brand stores though that are drawing processions of spenders, but a top selection of specialist stores that you’ll be lucky to find elsewhere, let alone under one roof. If you’re not ready to put your trust in Łódź’s restaurateurs then by all means, see if you can do better yourself. Your first point of call should be either Kuchnie Świata (first floor) or Toscana, right next door. In the former find a collection of hard-to-find goodies that range from Israeli fruit drinks to Marmite to a range of sauces from across the world. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in choice. Toscana is a similarly upmarket delicatessen, this one selling produce straight from Italy. Even more impressive mind is the Alma supermarket, a haven that features peso sauces imported from Liguria, hams courtesy of Krakowski Kredens, countless European cheeses and over 200 global coffee brands.

KUCHNIE ŚWIATA A lifeline for expats and contract workers, Kuchnie is nothing less than an Aladdin’s Cave of hard-to-find world food. Soft drinks, salsas, sauces, chocolate, cereals and raw ingredients from all corners of the world.QMall, tel. (+48) 42 631 17 09, www.kuchnieswiata.com.pl. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. OLD HAVANA CIGARS & ACCESSORIES Wide selection of cigars, imported direct from the home of the world’s finest rollers, Havana. There is a massive range of Cohibas, Montecristos and the like, and the friendly, knowledgeable staff will help cigar beginners find their way through the endless choice.QMall, tel. (+48) 42 634 35 21, www.oldhavana.shop.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. TIMBERLAND Top quality clothing and footwear for the outdoorsy type. QMall, tel. (+48) 42 634 83 33, www.e-timberland.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. TOSCANA A Italian deli theme with a full range of cold meats, wine, pastas, conserves and olive oils to choose from.QMall, tel. (+48) 515 18 22 58, www.toscana.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

After, why not hit Old Havana for your post-dinner cigar. Complete with a walk-in humidor chamber this is just the place for aficionados to test cigars imported from Cuba. Other stores to watch for include an Apple iSpot store for all your Mac needs. Outside the main range of shops don’t forego a visit to the craftsman’s alley between the Rynek and the mall; it’s here you’ll find all manner of stores including a cobbler, as well as privately run stores specialising in everything from metalwork to traditional rural-style souvenirs. The presence of much-hyped Magda Gessler-brand restaurant Polka is also a sure sign that Manufaktura has arrived. For a full map of the shopping centre or further info don’t be afraid to approach the English-speaking staff manning the information point at the main entrance to the mall. EMPIK As the home of Poland’s famed film school Lodz can inspire visitors to pick up Polański’s Chinatown or Wajda’s Katyń (though not instantly, expect a 3-4 day wait) after a wander through the Museum of Cinematography. Empik also offers your best change at English-language periodicals. Also at ul. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (D-7, Galeria Łódzka).QMall, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 15, www.empik.com. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 48 Łódź In Your Pocket

lodz.inyourpocket.com

Street Art turn Łódź into an open-air permanent art gallery was initiated by the Urban Forms Foundation back in 2009 and their aim is to improve the current image of Łódź through supporting and promoting independent artistic projects in the city’s public spaces. With the support of city council, the Foundation has so far overseen the completion of 30 large scale murals by some of Poland’s classiest street artists, like local heroes the Etam Crew and the Gdynia-born painter M-City. They have also invited some of the world’s leading street artists to leave their permanent mark on the city, so you can see work by Brazilian twins Os Gemeos, the cubist inspired French artist Remed and many other international stars of the scene. If you are keen to see all the murals the foundation has supported, a great way of doing this is to contact them via the Urban Forms website (urbanforms. org) and ask about their private bus tours of the city’s fabulous mural art.

Corner of ul. Traugutta and ul. Sienkiewicza. Photo by Bartek Matyjas

The recent growth of street art in Poland may not be that difficult to put in a historical context as the country has a great tradition of using urban wall space for all manner of creative ideas. The 1960’s - 70’s saw vast wall spaces used for the advertising of communist-era state-run companies and the current vogue for all things retro means that the surviving examples are now being re-assessed and revered as important graphic design visions of the time. Plenty of wall art from this time can still be seen around Łódź, from the ghost-like faded text on the gable-end wall of a building at the end of ul. Traugutta (C-4) to the relatively well preserved graphic painting of a giant butterfly advertising the state-run Pewex shops (where imported goods could be purchased with US dollars) at ul. Sienkiewicza 21 (C-4). It’s well worth keeping an eye out for these fading remnants of the city’s not so distant past. Over the last few years the somewhat gloomy streets of Łódź have come to life with the addition of numerous enormous and brightly-coloured murals. The project to

Corner of ul. Narutowicza and ul. Uniwersytecka

facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

Ul. Roosevelta

Wandering around the city you are also bound to stumble across some rather fine and less ‘in your face’ little creative acts. We particularly like the painted and stencilled gas and electricity boxes which are dotted around town. A nice one featuring the profile of renowned Polish poet and writer Julian Tuwim, who was born in Łódź, can be seen on the corner of ul. Sienkiewicza and ul. Traugutta (C-4).

Ul. Legionow 19

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Off Piotrkowska RESTAURANTS



Photo: Zosia Wawrzyniak

While Manufaktura is undoubtedly the rich and sanitised version of the ultimate shopping experience in postindustrial Łódź. OFF Piotrkowska is an altogether different, unique and alternative proposition. Situated just off ul. Piotrkowska (hence the name) between numbers 138-140, the complex has taken over the beautiful old cotton mill buildings of the former Ramisch factory (C-6). Originally from Czechoslovakia, the Ramisch family relocated to Łódź in the 1830’s and in 1850 purchased the first plot of land on which construction of the factory began; adjoining plots were purchased as the empire expanded. By 1909 the factory, in the very heart of the city, was firing on all cylinders. Production continued right up until 1990, after which the buildings and their rich heritage were all but forgotten about and the area fell into a sad and dilapidated state. Towards the end of 2010 the massive potential of the area was spotted by the young and very enthusiastic artistic visionaries of the city, and a whole host of bars, clubs, alternative music venues, studios, independent design companies and publishing houses started appearing in the area. Reminiscent of similar places in London or Berlin, OFF continues to attract new and off-beat local businesses with their pulse on current trends and fashions. The past, the present and the future all coexist magically without the need for the kind of massive investment which would ultimately strip the place of its ramshackle glamour. On the makeover point, it should be mentioned that the current developer/investor has already drawn up plans for a total upgrading and renovation of the area in the style of a miniManufaktura; here’s hoping that never goes ahead! To enter this gem of a place, head through the gate in the ugly sandstone coloured wall at ul. Piotrkowska 138 (C-6) into the large space of wasteland, which looks like a cleared minefield, pass Asian fast food huts, the drunken downand-outs and head towards the huge red brick buildings, you can’t really miss them! This is the alternative beating heart of the city which, unsurprisingly enough, also plays host to the fantastic Fotofestiwal every June. NOT to be missed. 50 Łódź In Your Pocket

DRUKARNIA SKŁAD WINA & CHLEBA An artisan bakery, café and restaurant all rolled into one. Slick, raw and modern rustic interior with a slightly more upmarket clientele than the other OFF venues, we lost count of the little Polo player logos on customers’ clothing! Very reasonably priced fresh and colourful fare, including a range of trendy sandwiches, salads, burgers and steaks. A few ‘one-pot’ curry dishes are also available although purists may well have a seizure when it arrives at their table with a ciabatta instead of a naan! Waiting staff were stressed, overworked and appeared to have given up the ghost. The kids play corner is a nice touch.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 42 672 80 01, www.drukarniaoff.com.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (15-79zł). T­6­U­G­S­W MITMI RESTOBAR It’s not often that one ventures into an eatery in Poland at 17:00 and has to squeeze in at the bar because every table is occupied, but that was exactly the case at MITMI (pronounced ‘Meat Me’). The Rib Eye Steak and the Beef Cheeks in Porto sauce are the stars of the menu here, and although not a burger bar, the locals accuse their juicy patties of being the best in town. The drinks list is as long as an orangutan’s arm and includes a few good ciders. In keeping with many ‘OFF’ venues, MITMI features an attractive semi-industrial interior with lots of raw brickwork, and metal lamps that you may have already seen elsewhere. Gold stars to the attentive staff, who kept the whole show running smoothly even though the place was mobbed.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 508 52 35 66. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (25-50zł). 6­U­G­W NEW SPÓŁDZIELNIA There’s a strong sense of being a place ‘to be seen’ when it comes to Spółdzielnia, and with good reason. The missmatched design components blend seamlessly to create a lovely space complete with a cozy kids corner. Bury your head



Photo by Bartek Matyjas

lodz.inyourpocket.com

Off Piotrkowska in the wrapping paper menu and dig into the grub on offer which is a range of snacky appetizers, salads galore, mains and even a separate pizza menu. Try the salmon marinated in bourbon served with a celeriac and kale puree. It’s also a great place to just have beer and do what the crowds do, watch the world go by with a stiff upper lip. There is no denying that Spółdzielnia is an institution when it comes to Łódź’s ‘bohemian’ scene. You’ll see what we mean.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowskiej 138/140, tel. (+48) 42 255 70 45, wwww. spoldzielnia-lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (20-50zł). T­6­G­S­W TARI BARI BISTRO Adhering to the ‘no compromise’ whitewashed, white tiled, bleached wood spacious and airy look. Tari Bari is popular with the quiet, arty crowd and there seems to be a lot of deep soul searching, beard stroking and adjustment of Raybans going on. It’s a great place for folks who don’t like to feel like they are eating and drinking in a Tokyo underground train during rush hour. During our visit the calmness was emphasised by some of the quietest plinky-plonky ambient background music known to mankind. Their menu changes daily and features fish, seafood, meat dishes and pizza please all kinds of special theme menus. Full marks to the barmaid who listened intently to the precise and exacting espresso demands of yours truly and then produced perfection!QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 728 50 73 23. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. (15-47zł). T­6­G­W

CAFES SPALENI SŁOŃCEM Unpretentious and care-free, Spaleni Słońcem (‘Burnt By the Sun’) has a great Kreuzberg feel to it. The industrial fixtures and fittings were bought from one of the local textile mills and installed to create a genuine factory feel to the bar. The bar itself is made up from a huge workshop chest of drawers and the wall murals, by local art star Jan Jubaal Wasiński, are a contemporary take on the realist paintings of 19th century Polish artist Józef Chełmoński. The have new cocktails on offer and the beer menu includes a range of Łódź Brewery electric soups. In the summer months you can sprawl out on the outdoor palette-built platform and really get burnt by the sun!QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 721 29 87 33. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Mon, Wed, Sun 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. 6­G­W

NIGHTLIFE DOM Dom is so new they were still shifting furniture around when we paid the entrance fee for the evening’s latest DJ. The club itself looks like squatters have taken over an empty industrial space: it’s nothing but concrete, a simple bar in an open room. The sparseness here works; the focus is on the rotating DJs (we got to see the hilariously named Hungry Hungry Models) and nothing more.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. U­E­G­W facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket



Photo by Bartek Matyjas

GANIMEDES OFF, as it stands, really does have something for everyone. This LGBT pub and sauna has been around in various guises and revamps since 1999. It features regular drag shows, karaoke and a whole host of specialist nights and parties for those who know what they want and ain’t afraid of finding it. The sauna room features the likes of ‘naked’ and ‘bear’ events. We can’t think of anything more harrowing than sharing a sauna with a bear, unless it’s sharing a duck pond with a shark.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 140, tel. (+48) 662 327 144, www.ganimedes.net. Pub open 20:00 - 04:00. Sauna open 15:00 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. X MEBLOTEKA YELLOW We like Mebloteka very much indeed, with its laid back hodge podge of mismatched 1970’s tables and chairs, a gallery and a design shop all battling it out for a bit of space amongst the chattering and excitable clientele. As well as being popular with the locals it also attracts lots of foreigners who live in the city and the number of languages overheard being spoken by the customers makes for a great international atmosphere in the heart of Łódź. Cakes, coffees, juices and a short menu of mainly salads are available but be sure to check out the small brewery beers on offer, including the all-natural Browar Zamkowy beers from Silesia. Go easy on the booze though, as you WILL end up buying most of the cool stuff from the design shop.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 504 34 40 32. Open 13:00 - 24:00. G­W

SHOPPING PAN TU NIE STAŁ Way back in 2008 Justyna Burzyńska and Maciej Lebiedowicz started sharing their love of PRL-era design and typography on their blog. Interest blossomed and soon they began producing limited edition t-shirts which sold like hot pierogi! The obvious next step was to set up shop. The range of funky goods and items expanded to include badges, belts, bags, scarves and hats aimed primarily at the young and arty hipster set. Well designed, smart and funny, all the products make for great and very affordable presents from some top Łódź designers. The name, “Pan tu nie stał” (“You weren’t standing here, sir”), is a comic reference to a regularly used phrase for queue barging during the martial law period of the early 80’s.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 42 257 28 32, www.pantuniestal.com. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. January - April 2016

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Freedom Square is the gateway to Łódż’s main thoroughfare.

Łódź Sightseeing EXPLORE THE SIGHTS BEFORE THEY DIM THE LIGHTS IN THE CITY OF FILM AND CINEMA

Essential Łódź The industrialist Łódź is most famous for however is none other than Izrael Poznański, and his palace (B-1, ul. Ogrodowa 15) is now home to the Museum of the City of Łódź - an unmissable chase through the history of the city, as well as a medley of items and artworks that once belonged to Poznański. His factory has since been developed into the Manufaktura shopping and leisure complex, and it’s here you’ll find the official museum of the site (B-1, ul. J. Karskiego 5). Poznański was Jewish by birth and you can visit his fearsome mausoleum (the biggest Jewish tomb in the world) at Europe’s largest Jewish cemetery (G-2, ul. Bracka/ul. Zmienna). Founded in 1892

Piotrkowska street

Most trips to Łódź will either start, end or focus on one street in particular: ulica Piotrkowska (C-2/7). Measuring a little under five kilometres, it ranks as Europe’s longest pedestrian street and is lined with restaurants, beer gardens, hot-dog stands, and a mix of neorenaissance and art nouveau buildings; some in chronic disrepair, others restored to their former glory. Starting at the Tadeusz Kościusko statue the street stretches southwards with crews of all-year-round rickshaws (5zł from end to end) spiriting travellers to the destination of choice. It may seem unlikely but Łódź is also Poland’s answer to Tinseltown. Stop sniggering at the back, having produced directors like Wajda, Polański and Kieślowski the Polish Hollywood has made an undeniable impact on world cinema. Opened in 1986 and housed inside Karol Scheibler’s extraordinary 19th-century palace, the Museum of Cinematography (G-4, Pl. Zwycięstwa 1) offers visitor two indulgences in one. The museum itself offers a really well presented history of Polish cinema and takes plenty of hats off to the multitude of Polish film greats who’ve studied in the city and who all went on to greater things as well as numerous changing exhibitions. This is the only museum of its kind in Poland, and though extremely badly signposted, it represents a rewarding experience for fans of Polish cinema. Another place inexorably linked with Scheibler is the Księży Młyn Residence (also known as Edward Herbst Palace, H-4, ul. Przędzalniana 72). Though currently the residence is closed for renovation, across the street you can see Scheibler’s enormous factory, Księży Młyn, which opened in 1854 and was soon leaving the competition behind. Once housing 70,000 spindles and the first private gasworks in the city a superb museum documenting these times now survives in a former Museum of the Factory in workers tenement. Manufaktura facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

Jewish Cemetery

Photo courtesy of Łódź City Council

visitors can view over 180,000 tombs. Łódź is famous for its Jewish heritage, though this was all but wiped out in WWII when the city became the home of the notorious Litzmannstadt Ghetto. Over 230,000 Jews were confined here, with over 200,000 eventually transferred to death camps. Jews were transferred to gas chambers from Radegast Station, and today visitors can view three cattle trucks that have since been preserved. But the suffering was by no means exclusive to Jews, as a visit to Radogoszcz Prison proves (F-2, ul. Zgierska 147). Formerly a factory this brick building was transformed by the Nazis into a prison holding Polish socialists and intelligentsia. The exhibition offers a disturbing look at life under occupation, as does the Museum of the Tradition of Independence (A-2, ul. Gdańska 13). A visit to this former tsarist prison offers a chronological journey through the misfortunes Łódź has suffered while being under the control of Imperial Russia, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union.

Plac Wolności

Photo by Kozłowski, Kaczmarkiewicz

January - April 2016

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Sightseeing CHURCHES CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL The city’s Roman Catholic Cathedral is the biggest church in Łódź. A true Gothic masterpiece it was built between 1901 and 1912 by the famous Łódź builders Wende & Zarske from original drawings supposedly supplied by the Berlin architect, Emil Zillmann. Styled along the lines of a typical medieval cathedral with three aisles, transept, choir, ambulatory and Lady Chapel, the interior is famous for being rather severe. Damaged by a fire in 1971, the Cathedral has been painstakingly restored including the addition of a new roof supported by modern steel trusses. On the Chancery’s side find a small Cenotaph dedicated to the Unknown Soldier, and on the opposite side a monument to Father Skorupka, a Roman Catholic priest who is believed to have made a great contribution to the country’s victory over the Bolsheviks in 1920.QG‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 265, tel. (+48) 42 636 03 83, www.katedra.lodz.pl. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 20:00. No visiting during mass please. CHURCH OF THE ASSUMPTION OF OUR BLESSED MARY Built to replace St Joseph’s on Kościelny Square between 1888-97, this vast neo-Gothic red brick beauty features some remarkable altars including the superb main altar that includes a triptych of the Ascension of the Blessed Virgin Mary dating from 1655, and some of the loveliest examples of stained glass in Poland. The famous Auschwitz nurse Stanisława Leszczyńska is buried here in the crypt, and at the back find the tomb of a certain Mr. Wyszynski, dated 1822 and the only thing left from the oldest cemetery in Łódź.QH‑3, ul. Kościelna 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 657 02 37, www.mariacka-lodz.com.pl. Open during mass only or by prior arrangement.

- and the building was moved piece by piece overnight by local factory workers to its present location in 1888, where it was consecrated by the Bishop of Warsaw as St. Joseph’s. As a result the church is the oldest and most humble house of worship in the city and possesses just one nave, a shingle roof and a tiny steeple. The church’s interior has recently undergone an impressive renovation and is worth a peek inside. Of particular interest is the neo-Baroque main altar, paid for somewhat surprisingly by the Jewish factory owner Israel Poznański. The free-standing bell tower, depending on whom you wish to believe, either dates from the 18th century and along with the church is the only pre-19th century building in the city, or was built from concrete in 1922. If the latter, then it has since been clad in wood.QB‑2, ul. Ogrodowa 22, tel. (+48) 42 633 76 06, www.jozef.org. pl. Open during mass and by prior arrangement only.

MONUMENTS JARACZ’S CHAIR Unveiled on June 10, 2006, here’s yet another work from the hand of Marcel Szytenchelm. Melded from bronze this number depicts Stefan Jaracz (1883-1945), a distinguished star of the Polish stage. For years he served Warsaw’s Ateneum Theatre as director, as well as being a bit of a name in the theatres of Łódź. He survived wartime imprisonment in Auschwitz only to die months after liberation in 1945. This monument sees our man sat on a theatre chair, with three vacant spots next to him for the benefit of those who’ve just trekked it up Piotrkowska. QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 152.

ORTHODOX CHURCH One of two Orthodox churches in the city, the domed neo-Byzantine St. Alexander Nevsky is the most interesting of the pair and serves as an official cathedral of the Łódź-Poznań Bishop. Said to have been designed by the official city architect Hilary Majewski between 1881 and 1884 as a gift from Łódź’s industrialists to the Orthodox community, the church has many ornate elevations and a breathtakingly rich interior featuring iconostasis made in St. Petersburg.QD‑4, ul. Kilińskiego 56, tel. (+48) 42 633 41 69, www.cerkiewlodz.pl. Open by prior arrangement or by attending the 10:00 service on Sundays. ST. JOSEPH’S CHURCH Made from larch wood, this diminutive church stands in stark contrast to the hulking brick behemoth Manufaktura across the street. This small church was built between 1765-68 and was originally situated in Kościelny Square under the name the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. As the city boomed so did the congregation, which grew to 6,000 members when it was decided that a larger brick church was needed as replacement. Bishop Jan Siemiec decided to move the wooden church to its current spot on Ogrodowa - at the time home to an abandoned cemetery 54 Łódź In Your Pocket

Orthodox Church

Photo by Bartek Matyjas

lodz.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing JULIAN TUWIM’S BENCH Łódź-born Julian Tuwim (1894 - 1953) was a Jewish writer and poet who studied law and philosophy at Warsaw University and was the co-founder and leader of the Skamander group in 1919. A major figure in Polish literature, best remembered for his contribution to children’s literature, Wojciech Gryniewicz’s comical statue dates from 1999, and was based on a design by Marcel Szytenchelm - it was to be the first of many statues of eminent citizens to be unveiled on Piotrkowska. A favourite meeting spot, children like to sit on his lap and it’s considered good luck for lovers to rub his nose.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 104. MIŚ USZATEK MONUMENT What started off as a novelty has now turned into a downright obsession with monuments. One of the latest to appear on the streets is a one metre, sixty kilo bronze bear. Unveiled on October 24, 2009, this little fella is Miś Uszatek, a fictional bear whose been entertaining Polish kids since 1957. Complete with trademark floppy ear we’re warned the bear is soon to be joined by other kids favourites, including a Moomin and something called Pik Pok the Penguin.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 87. MONUMENT TO THE 1905 INSURRECTION Designed by Kazimierz Karpiński this statue is typical of 70s Polish art, and commemorates the 1905 industrial insurrection against Imperial Russia. Down with the bourgeois pigs etc. Read more about the doomed rebellion in our box on the 1905 Revolution.QPark Piłsudskiego (Polesie). POPE JOHN PAUL II Unveiled on June 4, 2000 to coincide with the two thousand years of Christianity celebrations and 80 years of the Łódź diocese, Krystyna Fałdyga-Solska’s 2.2m bronze and granite sculpture shows John Paul II as a much younger man, a deliberate illusion referring to his visit to the city in 1987. The three granite blocks he’s standing on symbolise the three millennia between ourselves and the birth of Christ.QH‑4, Pl. Katedralny im. Jana Pawła II. TADEUSZ KOŚCIUSZKO Dominating the north end of Piotrkowska stands the towering figure of Poland’s most celebrated revolutionary. As the driving force behind the 1794 insurrection against foreign rule Tadeusz Kościuszko’s finest moment came in the Battle of Racławica where his band of peasant soldiers scored a historic win over the Russian army. His life also saw him fight with distinction in the American War of Independence, and his work on American fortifications made a significant contribution to victories over the British at Saratoga and Ticonderoga. The statue, designed by Mieczysław Lubelski, was erected in 1930, but was demolished in 1939 by occupying Wehrmacht forces. It was rebuilt in 1960.QC‑2, Pl. Wolności. facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

GUIDED TOURS GRUPA FABRICUM City tours available upon request for individuals and groups.QD‑7, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 535 09 20 86, www.fabricum.pl. Office open 09:00 - 17:00 and you can call until 20:00. PTTK - POLISH TOURIST AND SIGHTSEEING SOCIETYQD‑7, ul. Wigury 12a, tel. (+48) 42 636 87 64, www.lodz.pttk.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Guides: English, German, Russian, French, Spain. 360zł/5hrs. SEGWAY TOURS And so, the Segway makes it to Łódź. Yet while it’s a candidate for the most twittish looking transport contraption ever invented, there’s no doubt these two wheel weirdoes are rollicking good fun. Better still, go with a guide (you need to call in advance) and you get the added benefit of learning about Łódź in a series of languages: English, German, Italian, Spanish etc. Tours take place in winter, weather depending.QC‑4, ul. Strykowska 133, tel. (+48) 42 630 30 38, www. segway-tours.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Sat, Sun open by prior arrangement.

TOURIST INFORMATION CITY TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Brand new offices in the centre of Piotrkowska provided by the local government. The Englishspeaking staff will provide you with maps and guides in a number of different languages. An Internet terminal offers access to Łódź tourism sites, though folks toting their laptops can access free wi-fi.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 87, tel. (+48) 42 638 59 55, www. cit.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 15:00. TOURIST INFORMATION POINT At last, a tourist info point bang in the station - find all the expected services as well as pamphlets, In Your Pocket, helpful advice, maps and postcards.QF‑4, ul. Karolewska 55 (PKP Łódź Kaliska), tel. (+48) 42 205 42 00, www.cit.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. TOURIST INFORMATION POINT Tourist information is available at the heart of the Manufaktura complex in a specially built hut. Find guides, audio guides, maps, souvenirs and lots of information about Łódź and the region from friendly English-speaking staff.QA‑1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Rynek), tel. (+48) 695 13 11 13, www.lodzkie.travel. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. January - April 2016

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Sightseeing THE LAMP MAN Appearing in September 2007 Marcel Szytenchelm’s latest creation is the rather curious figure of a bloke climbing a ladder to fit a bulb onto a streetlight. Weighing more than a tonne the monument was unveiled to coincide with the 100th anniversary of the first electric streetlight to appear in the city. Replacing the old gas fired streetlamps, Łódź’s first electric light was once found on this very spot, right outside what was in those days regarded as the most exclusive shop in town - the American ‘Diamant Palace’. QC‑3, ul. Piotrkowska 37. THREE FACTORY OWNERS

alongside a German spiritualist, before once again joining a theatre group. The publication of his work Korespondencje in 1892 saw another career turn and he traveled to Warsaw to pursue a life of writing. Over the following years he became one of Poland’s most prolific and admired writers, and his book Chłopi beat the likes of Mann, Hardy and Gorky to claim the Nobel Prize. Like his book Ziemia Obiecana, Chłopi is a moral tale presented to a background of gritty, industrialage Łódź. He died the following year in 1925. The statue you see is yet another work credited to the prolific hand of Marcel Szytenchelm and was unveiled in 2001.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 137.

MUSEUMS ART MUSEUM - MS¹ This superb museum and gallery features a worthy modern art exhibition - called Open Composition - courtesy of progressive artists from a number of countries, including Poland.QA‑3, ul. Więckowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 42 633 97 90, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibits 10/5zł students under 26 pay just 1zł. Thu is free for all exhibits.

Łódź is generally believed to be the creation of three visionary industrialists, celebrated here in a bronze statue dating from 2002. The three men in question are the Jewish philanthropist and industrialist Israel Poznański (1833-1900), Henryk Grohman (1862-1939), industrialist and patron of the arts and Karol Schreiber, creator of the city’s extraordinary Księży Młyn.QC‑3, ul. Piotrkowska 32. VICTIMS OF COMMUNISM Idiotic monuments have become de rigeur in Łódź, so here’s one that actually merits its existence. Unveiled on December 12, 2009, and depicting a Polish eagle rising proudly above a set of bars, this 550,000 złoty monument is dedicated to all those who died and suffered under communism. Designed by Wojciech Gryniewicz, a particular point of interest is the building it stands in front of; under German occupation this high school was once the seat of the local Gestapo, and from 1945 till 1956 operated as home of the internal security services.QE‑1, Al. Karola Anstadta. WŁADYSŁAW REYMONT’S TRUNK Polish writer and winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1924. Brought up in the town of Tuszyn, close to Łódź, his early life proved inauspicious, with his only formal certificate of education being a qualification as a journeyman tailor. Refusing to make use of such a skill he ran away from home to join a traveling theatre, though financial practicalities forced him to return to his family where he worked for a while as a gateman at the railway crossing near Koluszki. The job failed to grasp his imagination and he worked for a while as a medium 56 Łódź In Your Pocket

CENTRAL MUSEUM OF TEXTILES To understand exactly what Łódź is all about, and to really get under the city’s skin, a visit to the Textile Museum is a good place to start. Although everything is displayed in Polish only, the two floors of exhibition rooms containing a mind-boggling array of steam-driven looms, fabric-printing machines, contrasting recreations of how the workers and their factory-owning bosses lived and worked, original paintings of Łódź in its 19th-century heyday, lace, rugs and other paraphernalia connected to the textile industry speak volumes about the city that’s often referred to as the Manchester of Poland. The icing on the cake: the museum is housed inside Ludwig Geyer’s mammoth 19th-century White Factory, an extraordinary building worthy of a journey in itself.QG‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 282, tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, www.muzeumwlokiennictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6zł. Sat free for permanent exibitions. U­N MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY AND ETHNOGRAPHY Established in 1931 and one of the leading research institutions of its kind in the country, this charming little museum is packed with intricately carved swords and muskets, archaeological finds from Palaeolithic Poland including flint axes, pots and the customary skeleton in a glass case, charming models of river settlements from the 3rd century and recreations of 19th-century peasant houses. If the idea of being followed by the staff doesn’t worry you in the least then this museum can’t come recommended highly enough.QC‑2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. (+48) 42 632 84 40, www.maie.lodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/6zł, Tue free. lodz.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY A typically run of the mill Polish museum that wouldn’t look out of place in a small town anywhere in the country, find the usual collection of stuffed birds and rocks not very thoughtfully presented and illustrated in Polish only. Belonging to the university, there’s little reason to drop by here unless you’re a fan of this kind of thing or if you’re in the park and the heavens open.QE‑5, ul. Kilińskiego 101 (Sienkiewicz Park), tel. (+48) 42 665 54 90, www.biol.uni.lodz.pl/muzeum. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing, Sat and Sun 30 minutes before closing. Admission 5/3zł, Thu free. N MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF ŁÓDŹ Inside the breathtaking Neo-Baroque former residence of Łódź manufacturer Izrael Kalmanowicz Poznański, this museum within a museum, dedicated to the relatively short life and times of Poland’s second city from the end of the 19th century to the outbreak of WWII, knocks you out from the moment you walk through the front door. Jammed full of exhibits tracing the history, people, culture and ups and downs of the city, find recreations of daily life from kitchen interiors to sections of streets. There are many fine examples of silverware and porcelain too, and rooms dedicated to many of the city’s former inhabitants, including Łódź’s unofficial Rubinstein museum (the only one in the world), giving over several rooms to the legendary Jewish pianist. Once this was the only section with English descriptions, but more and more sections are seeing translations added. The Jewish theme is admirably represented and includes a multimedia tribute to Jan Karski, the envoy of Poland’s underground authorities who first alerted the West to the Holocaust. Thoroughly recommended.QB‑1, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, www.muzeumlodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri. Opening hours are subject to change so consult their website for up to date changes. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/5zł, admission to Galeria Mistrzów Polskich exhibit 10/5zł, combined tickets 15/8zł, temporary exhibits only 5/3zł. Sun free. N MUSEUM OF THE TRADITION OF INDEPENDENCE Set inside a former Tsarist prison your tour begins on the ground floor, where a walk around the former cells allows visitors to glimpse depressing sights like huge, rusty restraints, a pitch-black isolation cell and playing cards and chess sets produced by the inmates. From there the museum is a chronological journey on the “Roads to Independence” experienced in the city, covering the years 1791-1921. The 1905 workers revolution is covered in detail, with prisoners letters and presses used to print inflammatory leaflets all on display. There is a new exhibition entitled “The Prison on Długa St. In Łódź from 1885-1953”. Hugely interesting, though the paucity of English-language translations is guaranteed to frustrate.QA‑2, ul. Gdańska 13, tel. (+48) 42 632 71 12, www.muzeumtradycji.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Fri. Admission free. facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

OPEN-AIR MUSEUM OF THE ŁÓDŹ WOODEN ARCHITECTURE Tucked behind the Central Museum of Textiles is a unique open-air museum dedicated to the wooden architecture that dominated the streets of Łódź in its early years. Until roughly 1830 almost every structure built was wooden, and many of those were created to house the influx of workers needed for the city’s booming manufacturers (often the homes included workshops where tradespeople like weavers could work). Wood fell out of favour in the 1860s and 1870s as more homes began to be built out of brick, and their numbers continued to dwindle as many wood buildings were destroyed during World War II. Today the museum features several examples of the era’s architecture, including a church, a summer villa, a one-story house for workers, a wooden tram stop and several craftsmen houses. The museum is arranged along two “streets” that include lamps and street signs to add to the authenticity. The two standouts are the elaborate villa, which was moved to the site from Ruda Pabianicka (a village that was absorbed by Lodz) and the church, which was erected between 1846-1848 and moved from Nowosolna (also a village that became part of Lodz). A great place to begin your tour - which is self-guided - is at the weaver’s house, which has been fully kitted out with period furniture and accessories down to the chamber pot beneath the bed, and offers English descriptions of what life was like for the city’s labourers. If visiting in the winter months, bear in mind that not every building will available to view.QG‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 282 (entrance from ul. Milionowa), tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, www.muzeumwlokiennictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free except for house number 6, which is included in the price of a Museum of Textiles ticket. N

The Lamp Man

Photo by Bartek Matyjas

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Sightseeing SPORTS AND TOURISM MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF ŁÓDŹ One of the great unsung oddities of Łódź, the Sports and Tourism Museum of the City of Łódź has been attracting the accidental visitor since 1982, amusing those who enter with its collection of Olympic medals, funny bikes, football pennants and trophies - as well as entertaining team photos featuring some extraordinary moustaches.QG‑4, ul. Księdza Skorupki 21, tel. (+48) 42 636 40 53, www. muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 4/2zł. N

PARKS ŁAGIEWNICKI FOREST Walking around downtown Łódź you would never guess that Europe’s largest urban park can be found north of the city. The name of the forest is directly related to an 11th century settlement of the same name. Occupying an area of 1,250 hectares the forest features countless walking and cycling trails, 542 different plants and 101 types of tree, predominantly oak, spruce and birch. The forest was used as a base for insurgents during the 1863 rising against Imperial Russia, while WWII saw it double as site of mass execution by the Nazis. The North West of the forest houses an 18th century Franciscan monastery, primarily known for its painting of St Anthony, which is claimed to have healing properties. MONIUSZKO PARK Originally unveiled in 1874 the park you see bordering the train station was initially designed by Hilary Majewski, the architect most associated with the city. Extensively remodeled in 1934 the park was formerly known as Park Kolejowy, and then Aleksandrowski, before acquiring its current name in the 1960s. Named to honour one of Poland’s most eminent composers a bust of Stanisław Moniuszko stands in what is otherwise a rather weary looking overgrown park.QD/E‑4, ul. Kilińskiego, ul. Składowa, ul. Narutowicza. SIENKIEWICZ PARK Founded in 1896 and opened in 1899, Sienkiewicz Park is one of the oldest parks in Łódź. At just 5.2ha there are plenty of things to see and do in it. The park is also the home to the Museum of Natural History and the highly recommended Centre for the Propagation of Art.QD‑5, ul. Kilińskiego, ul. Sienkiewicza, ul. Tuwima.

PLACES OF INTEREST FOUNTAIN OF LOVE Standing in the shadow of the Kościuszko statue on pl. Wolności (right in front of Café Wiedeńska) is Łódź’s favourite fountain. Originally constructed in the 1930s by students from the local arts school the fountain was allowed to fall into disrepair in the post-war years. The renovated version was finally unveiled in July, 2004, and its proximity to the nearby church make it a favoured backdrop for newlyweds to pose in front of. Its moniker, The 58 Łódź In Your Pocket

Fountain of Love, stems from the legend that if two lovers wash their faces in its water their love will be eternal. The renovation was part of a project titled Fountains for Łódź the idea of Marek Pyka, president of the local water board - and plans have been hatched to build or renovate another dozen fountains within the city limits.QC‑2, Pl. Wolności. OLD TOWN SQUARE On the face of it there’s very little to see in Łódź’s old town square - for a start it’s grey, barren and not old in the slightest. The buildings you see in front of it are Stalinera finest, and went up right after the war. Indeed, the grandiose squares of Kraków and Warsaw have little to fear, but to ignore it entirely would be a schoolboy error. Firstly, and rather obviously, the square didn’t always look like this. Before the war this was the heart of what was a thriving Jewish community, and in its heyday was home to a timber town hall and a small lake on the southern end. Houses of sturdier material were added in the 19th century, and in the 20th century the western front was occupied by market stalls designed by the eminent architect of the time, Marconi, and the square was deemed sufficiently upmarket for one of Izrael Poznański’s sons to take up quarters there. When WWII broke out it formed the very southern edge of the ghetto, and a wooden bridge was added over ul. Nowomiejska to link the square with the western side of the ghetto. Following the war the communists decided to get shot of the old buildings demolished everything in the sight. The architect in charge of the project was Ryszard Karlowicz, and he was under orders to follow the ideals of Socialist Realism - a severe artistic style pegged to strict guidelines from a Soviet masterplan. He didn’t disappoint, coming up with a network of uniform looking streets with a simple classicist form that were designed to honour both patriotic and socialist ideals. The square was later topped off in 1964 with a statue of commie agitator Julian Marchlewski, though that fell victim to the iconoclastic fury that erupted once the communists were booted out. Instead, today you’ll find a memorial stone in its place, added in 1998 to mark the 575th anniversary of the first recorded mention of Łódź. While it might look a bit bleak and boring the area is certainly well worth a snoop - see if you can spot the hammer and sickle on on ul. Podrzeczna.QC‑1. PALM HOUSE Completely renovated in 2003 and now the most modern example of its kind in Poland, the quirky Palm House is a delight for green-fingered jungle types. One of the warmest and most relaxing places to visit during the winter, exhibits include 20 very precious palm trees and plants that have been growing here for 130 years. Perhaps strangest of all is the experience you feel when you look up and see bananas growing. Mind out for the meat-eating plants too, and be sure to leave your dog at home.QG‑4, Al. Piłsudskiego 61 (Park Źródliska 1), tel. (+48) 42 674 96 65, www.botaniczny.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. From April open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/4zł. N lodz.inyourpocket.com

Hollyłódź The late 1960s saw several anti-zionist actions launched by the government, and as a result the school lost several of its rising stars in the Jewish exodus that followed - including rector Jerzy Toeplitz, who would later become the cofounder of Australia’s first film school. The film school soon regained its balance however, and has since produced luminaries such as Krzysztof Kieślowski, cameraman Slawomir Idziak and Krzysztof Zanussi.

Museum of Cinematography

Archiwum UMŁ

It may seem unlikely but Łódź is Poland’s answer to Tinseltown. Stop sniggering at the back: having produced directors like Wajda, Polański and Kieślowski the Polish Hollywood has made an undeniable impact on world cinema.

HISTORY The story starts in 1948, with the foundation of the National Film School. With Warsaw lying in ruins the major theatres, opera and theatre groups, and other miscellaneous artistes found themselves decamping to the nearest major city: Łódź. With Poland’s principal actors, performers and directors attracted to the city it was only natural to base the film school in this town. From its early beginnings the school had two distinct departments: film directing and cinematography. Initially the curriculum was limited to simple group productions, but soon films directed by individuals started to become the norm, all filmed using 35mm industry standard cameras. Among the first batch of students were Andrzej Munk and Andrzej Wajda, the latter scooping an Oscar in 2000 for his contribution to film. In an era dominated by Big Brother is Watching-style paranoia the school became a haven for the avant-garde and the small screening rooms would regularly pack out not just with students, but the rank and file proles looking to enjoy the latest European cinema. It was in this liberal climate that the school also proved to be the first place in Poland to host jazz jam sessions, officially outlawed by the authorities. The Wajda generation would go on to shape Polish film, with a series of edgy films taking a heavy influence from the Italian neo-realists. The films produced in the late 1950s were in direct opposition to official guidelines, and films like Wajda’s Ashes and Diamonds used screen talents like Zbyszek Cybulski, a charismatic, hotwire actor often labelled the Polish James Dean. Roman Polański entered the school in 1954, and four years later propelled the school to international fame when he won an award at Brussels’ Expo ‘58 for his film Two Men and a Cupboard. Alas the golden years soon proved to be numbered. facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

Established in 1993 the Camerimage Festival - honouring the art of cinematography - further cemented the school’s place in filmlore, with gold, silver and bronze frogs awarded for feature films, and tadpoles to students. In the past the festival has attracted household names such as Oliver Stone, Peter Weir and Val Kilmer, and it was during a visit to this festival that David Lynch discovered a passion for the city. However, and STOP PRESS on this bombshell, after years of international success the city has announced that it has lost the festival to the itsy town of Bydgoszcz, not so much a bitter blow as an axe to the face. Still, even so, film buffs have two points of interest: firstly the Museum of Cinematography and secondly the Łódź Walk of Fame; a collection of star shaped plaques right outside the Grand Hotel on Piotrkowska honouring the greatest talents in Polish cinema.

WHAT TO SEE LEON SCHILLER NATIONAL HIGHER SCHOOL OF FILM, TELEVISION AND THEATRE There isn’t much you can do other than stand outside the gates and gawk, but the Leon Schiller National Higher School of Film, Television and Theatre is where Hollyłódź was born, and since it’s right next door to the Museum of Cinematography it’s worth a casual walk past. Students still stream in and out of the campus, and you might catch a glimpse of the next Kieślowski.QG‑4, ul. Targowa 61/63, tel. (+48) 42 634 58 00, www.filmschool.lodz.pl. ŁÓDŹ WALK OF FAME Borrowing the idea from the Hollywood Walk of Fame, Łódź has created its own strip of sidewalk featuring starshaped plaques honoring the best of Polish cinema (can a giant Hollywoodesque “Łódź” sign be far off?). The stars are on either side of Piotrkowska right outside the Grand Hotel and include names like Roman Polański, Jerzy Kawalerowicz and Pola Negri.QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska. MUSEUM OF CINEMATOGRAPHY Opened in 1986 and housed inside Karol Scheibler’s extraordinary 19th-century palace, the Cinematography Museum offers visitor two indulgences in one. The museum itself offers a really well presented history of Polish cinema and takes plenty of hats off to the multitude of Polish film greats who’ve studied in the city and who all went on to greater things, as well as numerous changing exhibitions. This is the only museum of its kind in Poland, and though extremely badly signposted (don’t be surprised to find yourself directed to blind alleys or opening secret doors to reveal private offices), it represents a rewarding January - April 2016

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Hollyłódź KRZYSZTOF KIEŚLOWSKI The late Polish filmmaker Krzysztof Kieślowski (19411996) is known and respected the world over as a maker of great feature films. A much lesser known fact is that the chain-smoking director of such macabre works as A Short Film About Killing and the acclaimed Three Colours trilogy started his career churning out a series of gritty and often surprisingly charming documentaries, several of which have recently been released on a fine, twin DVD box set. Born in German-occupied Warsaw, the young Kieślowski suffered an itinerant childhood at the hands of a sick father. After several failed attempts at entering the prestigious film school in the industrial city of Łódź, Kieślowski was eventually granted a place in 1965. Dabbling in both fiction and documentary during his studies, Kieślowski graduated a dedicated factual filmmaker in 1968. His diploma film, the 17-minute black and white Z Miasta Łodzi (From the City of Łódź), is the first of the 13 films on the DVD. Set partly inside one of Łódź’s large textile factories as well as in the city’s numerous streets and parks, the film shines a peculiar and enchanting light on daily life in the city. Opening with an exemplary young girl worker clambering on a table to lead the daily factory exercises, Z Miasta Łodzi splices together various images of Łódź with ordinary scenes from the factory floor in which the filmmaker reveals the warmth and compassion behind a humdrum industrial existence. Kieślowski rapidly found a home at the Warsaw Documentary Film Studios, and was soon testing the limits of Socialist film censorship. Poking his camera into the previously unrecorded worlds of eccentrics, institutions and incompetent bureaucracies, his protagonists included disillusioned bricklayers, surgeons, teenage parents, blind war veterans and, in what rates as one of the most disturbing yet hilarious documentaries ever made, a night porter (From a Night Porter’s Point of View, 1977). In the latter the camera follows its sadistic subject about his daily life as he harasses everyone he comes in contact with, from scolding young lovers in the park to checking the permits of a group of harmless fishermen. A clever metaphor for the state intrusions and assaults of the time, the director fought against and lost the broadcast of the film on state television for fear of the reprisals it might bring against its central character. Complete with a booklet in English with background information about the films, the selection may not be the best 13 of the 22 documentaries Kieślowski made during his career (the omission of his 1971 masterpiece Before the Rally being the most obvious oversight), but as a record of Poland at the time, and as a body of great work in its own right there’s nothing else that even touches this truly remarkable DVD. Highly recommended. Krzysztof Kieślowski - Polska Szkoła Dokumentu, 4hrs, colour/ B&W, Polish with English subtitles. Available for 36zł in most larger branches of EMPiK. 60 Łódź In Your Pocket

experience for fans of Polish cinema. The collection features over 50,000 items including over 12,000 film posters, art exhibits and projectors and camera equipment of every kind. Standouts include the fotoplastikon, a giant drum-like contraption popular in the early 20th century for showing 3D films (currently unavailable during repairs), and the excellent exhibit devoted to animated photography featuring plenty of vintage stop-motion characters and accompanying clips. The newest exhibit in the permanent collection is called “Palace Full of Fairy Tales” and is devoted to the heros of Polish cult cartoon shorts and features (Moomins, Reksio). The palace itself is a dream, featuring room upon room of delights, including the city’s first electric lift, some beautiful tiled stoves, a Turkish smoking room and many other treats besides. Built in 1856 to serve as residence for industrialist fat cat Karol Scheibler the palace contains interiors designed in Venice, Berlin and Dresden, including ceramic tiled stoves and dramatic oak panelling. Even if film is not your scene, this place deserves visiting just to see how the other half once lived. They offer guided tours in English for 100 zł and in Polish for 70zł.QG‑4, Pl. Zwycięstwa 1, tel. (+48) 42 203 22 36, www.kinomuzeum.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł. Tue free for permanent exhibits.

instagram.com/in_your_pocket STATUE OF LEON SCHILLER That grim-faced blockish statue you see standing by ul. Piotrkowska 112 is Leon Schiller, or to give his full name, Leon Schiller de Schidenfeld. Born in Kraków in 1887 he graduated from Jagiellonian University with degrees in philosophy and Polish Literature under his belt before pursuing further academic titles at the Sorbonne in Paris. Having cut his teeth as a singer in Kraków’s notoriously rowdy Green Balloon Cabaret he was to go on to become one of the most famous film and theatre directors of pre-WWII Poland. In a career that took him across the country with a variety of theatre groups he is particularly famous for his staging of Adam Mickiewicz’s masterpiece Dziady in Warsaw’s Teatr Polski. Credited with directing over 29 dramas and a dozen or so vaudeville productions Schiller’s life predictably went wrong with the German invasion of 1939. In revenge for the assassination of the Polish actor and Gestapo agent Igo Sym, Schiller was apprehended by the Nazis and held in Warsaw’s infamous Pawiak Prison - of the 100,000 estimated Poles who passed through the prisons gates only 3,000 are understood to have survived the war. Schiller was one of those survivors, thanks in no small part to his sister, who paid a hefty ransom fee to ensure his release. Following WWII he accepted the presidency of Łódź’s National Drama School before finally passing away in 1954.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 112. lodz.inyourpocket.com

Jewish Łódź

Photo: A. Wach, Courtesy of Łódź City Council

By the time Hitler launched his depraved campaign to expand Germany’s borders the Jewish population of Łódź stood at 233,000 - approximately a third of the town’s inhabitants, and a figure only surpassed by the capital, Warsaw. To trace the beginnings of Łódź’s Jewish heritage one must go back to the mid-18th century, a time when Łódź was little more than a sleepy hamlet. A census taken in 1793 noted the presence of eleven Jews out of a population that numbered 190, a figure that was to rise to 98 by 1809. It was to prove a key time for Łódź’s Jews, with the town’s first synagogue built that same year, and a cemetery on ul. Rybna unveiled in 1811. Things were moving fast, not just for the Jewish community but for the town itself. Philosopher, writer and statesman Stanisław Staszic had long been campaigning to turn Łódź into a centre of manufacturing, and 1825 saw his ambitions come to life with the opening of the first cotton mill. The idea caught on, and within the next few years factories were springing up across Łódź like a rash of blackened toadstools. Waves of migrants followed the money, including German, Russian, and Portuguese workers. But none of those groups matched the numbers of the Jews. By the 1840s over one fifth of the city’s population was Jewish, and this would grow once more when in 1862 laws requiring Jews to live in the north of the city were repealed. Regardless, most Jews remained based around the Bałuty area where cultural and religious life thrived; in the years leading up to the war Łódź could count 80 prayer houses, 31 Jewish primary schools, at least five newspapers and numerous theatre and exhibition spaces. This world came crashing down on September 1,1939, with the news that the Nazis had launched their invasion of Poland. Within eight days the city’s streets reverberated with the sound of jackboots, the triumphant Nazis greeted as heroes and liberators by the ethnic Germans of Łódź. Almost immediately the Nazis set about imposing restrictions on the Jews: on September 18th a decree was issued prohibiting the withdrawal of more than 250zł per facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

week from bank accounts, and over the course of the next month Jewish businesses were forcibly signed over to the Germans. Persecution gathered pace following Himmler’s visit on October 28 - in the week that followed the city’s main artery, ulica Piotrkowska, was made off-limits to Jews, and scores of intellectuals were rounded up before being executed in the Łagiewniki Forest. Then, on November 9, the decision was taken to absorb Łódź into the Reich, thereby leaving it under the command of committed Nazi Artur Greiser. The terror escalated yet further, and within days synagogues were alight and bodies hanging in the street. On November 14 a curfew was imposed on Jews, and for the first time anywhere in the Third Reich Jews were compelled to wear a Star of David on their arm - failure to do so was punishable by death. The New Year brought with it a fresh set of trials. On February 8, 1940, newspapers broke the news that Jews would be resettled in a separate ghetto in Bałuty. After two months of transition the area was sealed on April 30, 1940, following the completion of a barbed wire wall surrounding the area. No one except a few authorised officials could get in or out, and approaching the wall from either side brought instant death from a guard’s bullet. Conditions inside the ghetto were poor - Jews lived an average 3.5 people to a room - though not nearly as bad as in the smaller and more crowded Warsaw or Krakow ghettos. Jews were also left more or less in peace for the early months of the ghetto’s existence, after the Nazi’s appointed Chaim Mordechai Rumkowski - a prominent Jewish businessman - to run the ghetto on their behalf. He was given the pompous title Judenälteste (Elder of the Jews) and Rumkowski remains a controversial figure to this day. For a start few people know why he in particular was chosen by the Nazis to run the ghetto, and whispers seem to indicate he either bought or scammed his way into the position. Yet he began well: he tried to preserve as much normality as possible, setting up schools, a bureaucracy, printing ghetto money (which bore his image) and January - April 2016

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Jewish Łódź constructing a rudimentary sewage system. He also convinced the Germans to provide raw materials for the ghetto’s factories: the goods made at these factories were then bartered back to the Germans in exchange for food. Yet the food was never enough for the 230,000 ghetto inhabitants, and people quickly began dying of malnutrition and disease. When the Nazis dumped as many as 30,000 Jews from other parts of Poland here in the autumn of 1941 conditions became intolerable. Worse was to come, however: in January 1942 deportations to the death camps began. Over the next three years around 200,000 Jews left the ghetto for the death camps. As the years and selections continued Rumkowski grew more maniacal; he saw the only way for survival to be the creation of a tireless, indispensable workforce. Those who couldn’t work were nothing but a drain on the meagre food reserves. And so it was that Rumkowski entered folklore in 1942 for imploring his people to surrender their children to the Germans: “A grievous blow has struck the ghetto. They are asking us to give up the best we possess - the children and the elderly. I was unworthy of having a child of my own, so I gave the best years of my life to children. I’ve lived and breathed with children, I never imagined I would be forced to deliver this sacrifice to the altar with my own hands. In my old age, I must stretch out my hands and beg: Brothers and sisters! Hand them over to me! Fathers and mothers: Give me your children!” No other ghetto in the Third Reich survived as long as the one in Łódź, but ultimately Rumkowski’s spurious efforts to ensure survival were to prove futile. In May 1944 Heinrich Himmler ordered the liquidation of the Łódź Ghetto, and over the course of the next few months the last 77,000 Jews were loaded into cattle wagons and sent to the gas chambers of Chełmno, Nerem and Auschwitz. Rumkowski left on the penultimate transport to Auschwitz, and according to some accounts was burned alive in a crematorium by workers who had recognized him. Historical records suggest that between five to twelve thousand ghetto habitants survived to see the end of the war. POST WAR JEWISH ŁÓDŹ Many Jews who survived the Holocaust descended on Łódź at the end of the war and a new, thriving community sprang up. Though there were two major waves of statesponsored emigration to Israel (in 1948 and 1957-8) there remains a thriving Jewish community of around 5,000 people in the city, primarily based around the synagogue on ul. Pomorska 18 (D-2). Of all Poland’s cities, few have been as understanding and remorseful as Łódź when dealing with the legacies of the Holocaust. THE GHETTO The Łódź ghetto was one of the largest Jewish ghettos set up in Nazi-controlled Europe. It stretched over much of the north-central part of the city, comprising the area north of Staromiejski Park (Old Łódź), and out as far as the Jewish Cemetery to the east of the city. The area was chosen to host the ghetto as most of the city’s Jews already lived in the district; indeed - as opposed to Kraków or Warsaw - there 62 Łódź In Your Pocket

was little swapping of homes that fell on the wrong side of the wall between Jews and gentiles. The Łódź Ghetto is also commonly known as the Litzmannstadt Ghetto - on May 5, 1940 the city of Łódź was renamed Litzmannstadt in honour of the German general who (unsuccessfully) attempted to occupy Łódź in World War I. TRACES OF THE GHETTO The area which once formed the ghetto is today covered with Socialist Realist leftovers, as well as whole swathes of buildings that seemingly haven’t seen a lick of paint since the Germans left. It’s a real rundown part of the city this, and frankly you’d be advised to keep the camera hidden and a spring-loaded truncheon at hand. On the plus side, the intrepid explorer will be rewarded by a moving trip back in time. Filled with forgotten courtyards and derelict doorways, it’s not hard to feel the ghosts of the past as you walk the streets of Łódź’s now silent Jewish quarter. Before setting off it’s worth bearing in mind a couple of points: firstly, you will be covering a distance of approximately ten kilometres, so it’s probably best not to attempt this in the middle of summer with a computer bag strapped to you. Secondly, to get the most out of the sites you’ll be passing, pick up a copy of Joanna Podolska’s Traces of the Litzmannstadt- Ghetto (see Further Reading for details). Finally, while it is often suggested to start at the Rynek before concluding your tour at Radegast Station (the train station where Jews were deported) - a logical route for those who wish to follow the chronological history of the ghetto - it’s certainly not the most practical. Radegast is in the middle of nowhere, so to get the most out of your day we suggest taking a taxi first to Radegast, and then following the trail all the way back to the centre not vice versa.

WALKING TOUR RADEGAST STATION “Today we are building a bridge of memory and dialogue over the decades of tragic forgetfulness.” Marek Belka, Prime Minister of Poland, 2004. As with many Holocaust sites across Eastern Europe, Radegast Station - from where as many 200,000 Łódź Jews left for the death camps of Chełmno and Auschwitz - has only recently been accorded the honour and Photo: A. Wach, Courtesy of Łódź City Council respect it deserves. It has been thoughtfully restored as a place of remembrance, and though it is a long walk from the centre of Łódź, it is well worth a visit. Three original Deutsche Reisebahn cattle trucks stand poignantly at the station’s platform with their doors open, as if another trainload of Jews is imminent. Though most visitors are tempted to enter the waggons, almost none actually do. Elsewhere there are large signposts - in the shape of headstones - denoting the destinations of the trains which left here: Stutthof, Ravensbruck, Chełmno, Auschwitz. There are also plaques commemorating the lodz.inyourpocket.com

Jewish Łódź Jews of Vienna and Luxembourg, who were transported to the death camps after transiting through the ghetto. The plaque from the city of Vienna is suitably, simply repentant: “The city of Vienna commemorates its citizens in mourning and in shame.” There are now two permanent exhibitions in the museum: “Litzmannstad Getto 1940-1944” and “Kufer Rodziny Schwarz”.QG‑2, Al. Pamięci Ofiar Litzmannstadt Getto 12, tel. (+48) 42 291 36 27, www.muzeumtradycji. pl. Exhibits can be viewed 09:00 - 17:00; Wed, Thu 10:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri. For groups of 10 or more guided tours in English are 30zł. Please book in advance by calling 42 291 36 27 or 783 75 53 91. JEWISH CEMETERY The largest Jewish cemetery in Europe holds 180,000 graves, with many laid to rest inside ostentatious tombs that are works of art themselves (including the biggest Jewish mausoleum which belongs to Israel Poznański). Less ceremonious was the burial of the 45,000 or so Jews who died in the ghetto - you’ll find them interred in the so-called ‘Ghetto Field’ in the south of the cemetery. This is where the ‘clean-up squad’ of around 800 Jews who had remained to clear the ghetto were forced to dig their own graves. The Nazis, surprised by the speed of the Soviet advance, didn’t have time to carry out the execution, and the empty graves have been left as eerie reminder.QG‑2, ul. Bracka/ul. Zmienna. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission 6zł, free first Sunday of every month. THE MONUMENT IN COMMEMORATION OF THE POLISH CHILDREN MARTYRDOM The ghetto was also home to a separate camp for Polish children, and this was located on ul. Przemysłowa. Today only a former admin building remains at number 34, though a large memorial can also be spotted if you carry on walking straight into Park Szarych Szeregów. Depicting an emaciated figure staring through a cracked white heart, the monument is dedicated to the 1,600 children who were processed through the camp once found on these grounds. Beatings and hard labour were standard here, and it is estimated that over 130 children died while in custody, many due to starvation. QG‑2, Park im. Szarych Szeregów. GYPSY CAMP As bad as conditions were elsewhere in the ghetto it’s commonly accepted that no one had it worse than the gypsies. In early November some 5,007 Roma and Sinti people were herded into a separate ghetto entered from ul. Wojska Polskiego and confined in revolting conditions. On January 12, 1942, the camp was liquidated and all remaining habitants were transported to death camps. To this day little is known of what happened inside, though a quote from ghetto survivor Sara Zyskind says enough: „The facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

two men who were first to enter that Gypsy camp could not recover for a long time from the shock they experienced reading the inscriptions in German left by the Gypsies on the walls.”QG‑3, ul. Wojska Polskiego 84. SYNAGOGUE The oldest synagogue in the city was built between 1895 and 1900 by the Reigher family foundation and only survived the Second World War because it was used for storing salt. The war did unfortunately destroy the interior as well as an allegedly lovely Star of David stainedglass window. A plaque on the east wall commemorates the synagogue’s founder who starved to death in the Łódź ghetto. The Nissenbaum and Lauder foundations renovated the shrine in 1989. Religious services are no longer held here, but can be attended at the synagogue on ul. Pomorska 18 (C-2).QD‑2, ul. Rewolucji 1905r. 28, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www.jewishlodz.org.pl. Open by prior arrangement with Jewish Community. DECALOGUE MONUMENT The Decalogue Monument is appropriately placed in Staromiejski Park at the point where two former synagogues were located: Alte Szil and Old Synagogue. Unveiled in 1995, it shows Photo: A. Wach, Courtesy of Moses holding the tablet Łódź City Council of the Ten Commandents and was designed by Kazimierz Gustaw Zemła. The Old Synagogue was the first wooden synagogue in Łódź and was built in 1809 and by 1854 services ceased due to fears the old building would collapse. By 1871 the new concrete synagogue Alte Szil was built on the same ground and was one of Poland’s greatest. Sadly but unsurprisingly the structure did not survive the war; the Nazis robbed and burned Alte Szil in November 1939.QC‑1, Park Staromiejski. OLD SYNAGOGUE The Old Synagogue was the first wooden synagogue in Łódź and was constructed at ul. Wolborska 20 (now the Decalogue Monument is placed here exactly) in 1809 by Mojżesz Fajtłowicz and Pinkus Zajdler. From 1854 services were moved away from the synagogue out of fear that it would collapse, and between 1863-1871 a new concrete synagogue called Alte Szil was built on the same ground. QC‑1, Park Staromiejski. ALTE SZIL SYNAGOGUE Alte Szil operated as the main synagogue for Łódź’s Jewish Community beginning with its opening 1871. It was located on ul. Wolborska 20 and was considered one of the greatest synagogues in Łódź and even all of Poland. It was rebuilt in 1893 and sported various styles such as Byzantine, Moorish Revival and Romanesque Revival. During WWII Nazis robbed and burned Alte Szil in November 1939, with nothing remaining of the once-dramatic synagogue today. QC‑1, Park Staromiejski. January - April 2016

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Jewish Łódź THE GHETTO BRIDGES The ghetto entirely surrounded Łódź’s major market, Bałucki Rynek, which the Nazis were keen to keep open. To achieve this the Nazis sealed off the market and its access roads, allowing traffic to come and go without entering the Photo courtesy Polish National ghetto. In effect this created two separate ghettos. These Archive were split by the market and ul. Zgierska, and linked by three bridges: two ran over ul. Zgierska and another linked the divided street of ul. Zachodnia. The bridges have become a symbol of the ghetto, and appear on all ghetto literature. The bridge pictured below was on lower ul. Zgierska, linking ul. Podrzeczna to Stary Rynek. Neither the bridge nor the surrounding buildings remain today.QC‑1, Crossing of ul. Zgierska and ul. Podrzeczna. THE RED HOUSE Few addresses inspired as much fear in the ghetto dwellers as ul. Kościelna 8/10. Known as the Red House it was commandeered by the Kripo (Criminal Police) as a headquarters to combat smuggling. In reality it was allowed to turn into a brutal interrogation centre, where those suspected of illegal activity would be tortured in the basements. Today the building is the property of the nearby church, with only the plaque outside suggesting the sinister purpose the building once served.QG‑3, ul. Kościelna 8/10. CHURCH OF THE ASSUMPTION OF OUR BLESSED MARY Completed in 1897 this red brick neo-gothic masterpiece saw its fair share of hard times during the ghetto years. In 1942 it was used as a warehouse to store the clothes of those gassed in Chełmno and Nerem, after which it became a feather factory employing slave Jewish labour. Surrounding it are several surviving points of interest: The postal service and main treasury were located on pl. Kościelny 4/6, while next door a pharmacy operated from number 8 - a function still held by the building today. QH‑3, ul. Kościelna 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 657 02 37, www. mariacka-lodz.com.pl. Open during mass only or by prior arrangement. BAŁUCKI RYNEK Described by Oskar Singer as the “heart and brains of the ghetto,” Bałucki Rynek was where all the principle offices of the ghetto administration were based - including Rumkowski’s custom-made barracks. It was also the logistics hub of the whole area, where food arrived, and where goods made in the ghetto left. The Rynek was 64 Łódź In Your Pocket

separated from the rest of the ghetto and could only be accessed with a special pass.Today it’s hard to get a feel for what was once here, and nowadays anyone penetrating the market square is liable to leave blinded by the plastic gizmos and general detritus on sale.QG‑3, Rynek Bałucki. SCHUPO AND GESTAPO HQ While it might be hard to picture when you’re staring at the chemist’s and a loans office that stand here today, this was once the home of the Gestapo and the Schupo, which kept tight and merciless control over the ghetto. Several stories you’ll read recall how German sentries would delight in shooting at Jews for sport, as a June 1941 order allowed officers to fire without warning at any Jew trying to leave the ghetto was liberally abused. A plaque erected on this building on the 40th anniversary of the ghetto liquidation commemorates the fate of the 200,000 Jews and 20,000 gypsies.QG‑3, ul. Limanowskiego 1. OLD JEWISH CEMETERY From there follow ul. Zachodnia southwards, admiring the Stalinera monstrosities that were hastily built on top of the former Jewish area. Turning in at ul. Bazarowa you’ll note an overgrown triangle of parkland, nowadays popular with winos and other scapegraces. Towards the far pointed end is a small stone set in the grass, its inscription missing (something to do with the aforementioned winos, we’d guess). This marks the spot of the ghetto gallows. From there head up ul. Rybna, passing a couple of former factories, before turning in at ul. Rybna 11a. Walk past the basketball court, and lads tipping back lager, and you’ll once more find a stone with a missing plaque. This is all that is left to denote that the area was once Łódź’s oldest Jewish cemetery. Established in 1811, and operating until 1892, the cemetery was the final resting place for over 13,000 people. During the Holocaust the tombs were ripped up and used for paving stones, though the bodies remained underground (dig hard and you’ll still find bones).QG‑3, ul. Rybna 11. HELENOWEK ORPHANAGE Helenowek is the orphanage where Rumkowski served as director prior to the war. In the immediate aftermath it was used to house child survivors of the Holocaust. Today it is abandoned and crumbling, a derelict and ghostly reminder.QF‑1, ul. Krajowa 15.

USEFUL CONTACTS JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE QC‑2, ul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www.jewishlodz.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SYNAGOGUE Open for prayer and religious services.QC‑2, ul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www. jewishlodz.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. lodz.inyourpocket.com

Leisure

The newly opened Planetarium EC1

With a modern water park, new indoor arena and of course the entertainment and leisure centre incorporated within Manufaktura, Łódź can offer a range of ideas on how to spend your time. And don’t forget that this is one of Poland’s greenest cities, with over 30 parks within the city limits. Las Łagiewnicki offers a whole range of outdoor possibilities throughout the year.

ADRENALINE SPORTS SPORTY EKSTREMALNE 4X4 Rent quads and off-road cars for use on a private 4x4 track. The track includes hills, descents, mud and ditches.Qul. Ogrodników 2b, Nowa Gadka, tel. (+48) 508 01 68 94, www.sportyekstremalne4x4.pl. Open 10:00 till dusk. Quads: 200zł/1 hour, Cars: 250zł/1 hour.

ENTERTAINMENT CENTRES

STACJA NOWA GDYNIA This is far and away the best fitness complex in the region, and not unlike a UK country club. A recent renovation takes it up another notch, making it even more modern with Technogym equipment. Facilities as follows: four bowling lanes, two indoor tennis courts, four badminton courts, three squash courts, an airconditioned gym, spa and aerobics classes. Englishspeaking instructors are available on request. Across a connecting wooden bridge find the swimming complex which is made up of three pools: children’s pool, recreational pool featuring water slide and a 25m six lane pool for the more serious swimmer. Two cafeterias, a sauna and a steam room are also there to use. A full price list can be found on their English language web page. The entire complex is open 06:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.QG‑1, ul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz, tel. (+48) 42 714 21 21, www.nowa-gdynia.pl.

JAZDA!PARK Billiards, darts, arcade machines and slots galore. Also at (D-7) ul. Piłsudskiego 5, a location which also has bowling. QB‑1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 633 50 18, www.jazdapark.pl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00.

HORSE RIDING

FITNESS & GYMS

WIKI Small stable just ten minutes away from the city centre. Qul. Prądzyńskiego 120, Łódź Górna, tel. (+48) 504 27 01 74, www.jazda-konna.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 16:30 - 19:30; Fri 15:30 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 18:00. Closed Mon.

BODY LINE GROUP Gym facilities.QI‑4, ul. Przybyszewskiego 161/163, tel. (+48) 42 642 01 09, www.body-line.pl. Open 07:00 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

SMULSKO Horse riding with tuition available in German. From 30 to 45zł per hour.Qul. Smulska 28 (Polesie), tel. (+48) 601 20 38 96, www.konie.infocentrum.com. Open 08:00 - 18:00.

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Leisure ICE SKATING BOMBONIERKA Enjoy skate rental (5zł) and a bar to hit after you finish making use of the 1,800 metres of ice they have. Nationwide figure skating championships held here, which should tell you something of the quality on offer. It’s open every day but Monday although we recommend checking their website for exact opening hours as they are subject to change.QG‑4, ul. Stefanowskiego 28, tel. (+48) 42 636 27 85, www.mosir.lodz.pl. Admission 9/7zł.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS LET ME OUT Escape Rooms fever has finally reached Łódź and Let Me Out have opened up two rooms located 10 minutes from pl. Wolności or 3 stops by tram 15 A. This is the perfect way to spend time with friends, family or business partners and the perfect solution for what to do on a rainy day. How does it work? Well, you and your friends are locked in a room and you have forty five minutes to figure out how to escape by solving a series of puzzles using clues hidden in the room. It’s really great fun and each room has a different theme and different riddles to solve. We recommend booking your visit in advance!QG‑3, ul. Wierzbowa 21, tel. (+48) 601 713 335, www.letmeout.pl. Open 13:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. 99 zł per group (2-4 person). N PLANETARIUM EC1 At EC-1 East the first major attraction is getting ready to open its doors to the public January 8th after much anticipation. The brand new Planetarium is one of the most modern and technically advanced spherical projection cinemas in all of Central Europe. The screen has a diameter of 14 metres and the camera will display images with a stunning resolution of 8K. Inside the theatre there will be space for 100 spectators. Part of the mission of the Planetarium will be to accommodate school groups during the day but in the afternoon it will be open to the general public and it will show a mix of classic and cutting edge astronomical shows. In the evenings they plan to open the theatre up for artistic projects and experiments mixing breathtaking images with live music. Check their FB page for updates on opening hours, price and exact showings.QE‑4/ E‑5, ul. Targowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 233 50 55, www.planetariumec1.pl. Tickets: 17/12zł; Family 40zł (4 people - max 2 adults).

Colour outside the lines at Experymentarium (see p.46)

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OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS & PARKS ZOO Established in 1938 the local zoo features 3,000 animals, including cheetahs, lions, tigers and reptiles and scores of other depressed looking creatures.QF‑3, ul. Konstantynowska 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 632 75 79, www. zoo.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:30. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 11/5zł. N

RACQUET SPORTS CITY TENIS CLUB Outdoor courts with English-language coaching available upon request. Open all year round.QF‑4, ul. Żeromskiego 117 (entrance from Al. Mickiewicza), tel. (+48) 42 637 65 04, www.mkt-lodz.com. Open 06:00 - 24:00.

SLEIGH RIDES STAJNIA OLEŃKA Located in the Bałuty district close to the forest. Sleigh rides takes about two and a half hours in all and include a bonfire with sausages, bread and hot tea in the price of 30zł per person. Organised for groups of up to 12 people and only if there is enough snow so please call in advance to book a ride and check availability.Qul. Liściasta 241 (Bałuty), tel. (+48) 608 48 91 63, www.hippika.com.pl.

SPA & BEAUTY ESPA CLINIC This exceptional Day Spa and Clinic goes out of their way to improve your health, body and soul. Choose from a huge selection of skin replenishing treatments and corrective procedures. The soft candlelight and soft mood music will help set the tone for your full body rejuvenation. Their Professional team of experienced Cosmetologists, Doctors and specialists are there to help you choose a solution that just right for the new you. Turn up the calm and turn back the clock.QC‑7, Al. Kościuszki 106/116, tel. (+48) 42 256 87 97, www.espaclinic. pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Stay up-to-date facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket SKYSPACE Swimming, sauna and massage treatments on the topfloor glass encased rooftop of the designer Andels Hotel. Pool is open 06:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Sauna is open Mon-Fri 16:00-22:00; Sat 09:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:30 21:00. Massages and other treatments 16:00 - 22:00 and by prior arrangement. The Spa is open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.QB‑1, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Andel’s Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 279 15 80, www.andelslodz.com. lodz.inyourpocket.com

Leisure SLIM & BEAUTY This impressive day spa specialises in wellness treatments of all kinds. Exfoliating body scrubs, manicures/pedicures, therapeutic massages or even slimming and shaping treatments. Their professional staff of qualified specialists, cosmetologists, masseurs, dermatologists and stylists will help you figure out which treatment(s) are just right for you. Their comfortable Spa salon is located right in the Centre of Lodz on the ground floor of the Manhattan block (across from Galeria Łódzka).QD‑7, ul. Sienkiewicza 101/109, tel. (+48) 783 19 07 83, www.slimandbeauty.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. SPA & HEALTH CLUB IN DOUBLETREE BY HILTON ŁÓDŹ Traipsing the streets of Łódź or navigating the vast Manufaktura with dozens of shopping bags is an exhausting business, so a visit to the Double Tree Spa & Health Club is the ideal solution to restore mind, body and spirit. The Spa offers a full range of body treatments, massages and relaxing rituals. If that isn’t enough to make your weary body tingle with excitement, clients who are not guests of the hotel can also take advantage of free use of the gym and swimming pool on the day of their visit. So, go ahead and pamper yourself in this stunningly equipped and ultra-modern Spa & Health Club with a fitness center open 24hrs and a swimming pool open daily 06:00 - 22:00. Those based in the city can also sign up for their own personal trainer who will make sure you stay in tiptop shape with an individually tailored dietary and exercise programme.QA‑7, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 07, www.doubletreelodz. pl. The SPA is open everyday 09:00 - 21:00 (but you must book body treatments or massages in advance). ŚWIAT KOBIET Świat Kobiet translates to “World of Women,” but it might as well be world of pampering based on the long list of services offered. From head (haircuts and color, makeup applications) to toe (pedicures, massage, even waxing) this salon leaves nothing out, and does it all in the up-andcoming Scheibler Lofts complex.QG‑4, ul. Tymienieckiego 25a, tel. (+48) 603 31 33 13, www.swiatkobiet.net.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

SWIMMING AQUAPARK FALA A fantastic new addition to the Łódź leisure scene. Boasting 4 indoor pools with several slides and one with a wave machine, including a pool for the kids and three water playgrounds. There are also 7 saunas (ranging from Finnish with music therapy to crystal steam baths and open until 23:30 on Fridays), 1 large Jacuzzi, heated loungers, an indoor water slide a ‘wild river’ ride and an on site restaurant to keep you entertained.QF‑4, Al. Unii Lubelskiej 4, tel. (+48) 42 640 08 00, www.aquapark.lodz.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Prices are varied depending on dates and times. Find out more at their website at www.aquapark.lodz.pl/tickets.php. facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

EASTER Palm Sunday (20/03/2016) marks the official beginning of Poland’s Easter festivities - perhaps the country’s most sacred holiday. Leading up to the season you may see decorative handmade palms for sale around town. These traditional decorations are made from a variety of dried flowers and plants and are crafted in villages all over Poland. Palms are taken to church on Palm Sunday to be blessed before they will decorate homes until the end of the season. As a deeply Catholic country, Poland takes its Easter celebrations seriously; throughout the period, the visiting foreigner can expect bars and restaurants to be either empty or closed beginning on Good Friday (25/03/2016). A traditional day of abstinence, dutifully observing Catholics visit church to attend stations of the cross - a series of prayers following Jesus Christ’s route to his crucifixion. On Easter Saturday (26/03/2016) Poles, typically children, bring brightly decorated baskets of food to church to have these blessed as well. These baskets traditionally contain a piece of sausage, bread, egg, mazurek cake (a traditional Easter cake), some salt, some horseradish and a symbolic ram made from dough. In addition ‘pisanki’ are included - painted boiled eggs which have been prepared in the lead-up to Easter by the whole family. Each of these components of the basket has a symbolic meaning. The eggs and meat symbolize new life, fertility and health, the salt protects against bad spirits and helps you follow the right path, the bread symbolizes the body of Christ - and by this future prosperity in terms of always having food to feed yourself, the horseradish represents strength and physical health and the cake represents skills and talents needed for the coming year. Rezurekcja (Resurrection), a traditional mass with procession, is held Saturday night or Easter morning depending on parish tradition. On Easter Sunday (27/03/2016), families gather together to celebrate with an Easter breakfast of żurek (Polish rye soup), bread, eggs, sausage, horseradish and poppy seed cakes. Each person places a small piece of the blessed food on their plate before exchanging wishes with other members of the family. The symbolic dough ram is placed on the table to symbolize the resurrection of Christ. Things take on a more lighthearted air on Easter Monday (28/03/2016). Known as Śmingus Dyngus the day is dominated by public water fights and everyone is given carte blanche to drench anyone they see with water. You, as a foreigner, are not exempt from this practice, so move fast if you see someone armed with a water pistol or bucket and a grin. Although it’s never pleasant to have a jug of water thrown over your head, this is an improvement from the past when young people were beaten with sticks from Palm Sunday trees - explained away as bringing luck and strength for the year ahead. January - April 2016

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Shopping

Galeria Łódzka

Shopping in Łódź centres on three main areas of the city: the thoroughfare of Piotrkowska, the modern shopping centre Galeria Łódzka, and the shopping heaven that is the Manufaktura complex. Some of the streets running parallel to Piotrkowska, including ul. Sienkiewicza, are good for specialist shops, such as antiques and paintings. Indeed, whisper it in Warsaw, but Łódź may in fact be Poland’s top shopping destination. Whether it’s malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets a day spent shopping can result in both bargains and treasures, and there’s presents to be had for everyone on your list (including yourself ). WIFE OR GIRLFRIEND When we think of what the ladies would like, one word comes to mind: amber. Poland is well known as the best place to find handsomely shaped fossilised resin, and you can easily nab a piece that will please at A&A Dom Jubilerski or famed Polish jeweller W. Kruk. HUSBAND OR BOYFRIEND One word: beer. Another word: lard. Take home some Polish brews and a container of smalec (spreadable lard) and you’ll make any man happy. Krakowski Kredens carries tubs of the greasy stuff, while you’ll find every obscure Polish microbrew at Piwoteka, a tiny store just off Piotrkowska that is floor-to-ceiling bottles. BROTHER If your bro’s a sports enthusiast Manufaktura has plenty of stores offering gear and kit for whatever ball he prefers to kick, throw, hit or catch. If he’s more into Marvel and DC pick 68 Łódź In Your Pocket

up some classic comics and Polish rarities at Antykwariat Komiks. SISTER While it might not be as synonymous with European fashion as cities like Paris and Milan, Lodz is the home of Polish Fashion Week and a hotbed of all things stylish. Bring sis home something fashion-forward from Manufaktura, the city’s 90,000m2 shopping mall that houses more than 300 stores, including several Polish fashion brands to scour for stylish treats such as Reserved. CHILD Lodz is the home of the country’s famed film school, and it’s a great place to snap up some classic Polish DVDs of old-school cartoons like Reksio and Bolek i Lolek. Both cartoons were created during PRL times and contain no dialogue, which means kids from any culture will easily be able to follow the storylines. Find stacks of DVDs at the local Empik. MOM Give mom some monk-like zen with soaps and lotions from Produkty Benedyktyńskie, which carries a variety of products created by the brothers at Tyniec Abbey in Krakow. DAD If your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his life in interesting vintage bookshops. Lodz is packed with them, and Antykwariat Komiks is one of the best for digging. lodz.inyourpocket.com

Shopping ALCOHOL KLUB WINO Half store, half wine bar, Klub Wino will easily appeal to wine connoisseurs who like to buy as well as taste. The store features bottles from around the world, including a small section of Polish wines.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 602 76 96 99, www.klubwino.pl. Open 11:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PIWOTEKA You’ve probably been in bathroom stalls larger than this shop, but that’s not what will grab your attention. Piwoteka is floor-to-ceiling beer, the kinds you can’t and don’t find in the local pub (we imagine ‘Tyskie’ is a dirty word here). We’ve actually seen huddles of young men staring longingly through the window. Take it further and go inside, where you can’t turn around but you can learn a lot about the world’s best beer from the knowledgeable owner.QC‑4, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 730 35 67 06, www.piwoteka.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.

AMBER & JEWELLERY Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland. Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin is in any of the jewellery stores found in Manufaktura, though you’ll find Piotrkowska offering numerous opportunities as well. A&A DOM JUBILERSKI One look in A&A’s window and you’ll be blinded by the bling on display; anything picked up here will easily draw attention, with plenty of unique designs to choose from. QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 146, tel. (+48) 42 637 17 83, www.domjubilerski.aia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. CRYSTAL FASHION The owner has 18 years of experience and training working with the world renowned Austrian Kings of Bling, Swarovski. As well as a fabulous range of jewellery and items produced in their onsite workshop, using Swarovski components and their own range of sparkling crystal, they also stock jewellery and accessories from designers such as Murano and cult Dutch design team Buddha to Buddha. Crystal Fashion also undertakes commission work, irrespective of how bizarre or complex your idea may be, and they have encrusted cars, snooker cues and even a vacuum cleaner. Lighting, including chandeliers, are another speciality of theirs. Not just a store for the super-rich, many of the workshop pieces are very reasonably priced and you can even come away with a Swarovski topped pencil for an amazing 12zł!QG‑4, ul. Tymienieckiego 22/24, tel. (+48) 42 648 05 77, www.crystalfashion.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

LILOU Phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components and create a unique and personal piece. The range continues to grow, with the original idea of the personalised bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes - hearts, dogs, cats and the likes, and then have it hand engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you, like Justin Bieber for example. All slightly naff but a ‘must have’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas.QC‑3, ul. Piotrkowska 18, tel. (+48) 797 33 43 36, www.lilou.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. W. KRUK Polish jewellery, amber and watches from various international brand names all worth a browse. Also at ul. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (D-7, Galeria Łódzka).QA‑1, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 661 98 05 73, www.wkruk.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. YES Yes jewelry stores can be found throughout Poland, and will impress with their array of accessible (Pandora) and classic (Polish amber) options. Keep an eye out for unique Polish designers.QA/B‑1, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 617 37 27, www.yes.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

ANTIQUES & ART GALLERIES ANTYKWARIAT KOMIKS While it might not look like much from the outside this bookshop is packed to the rafters with all manner of old and new books and comics covering topics we’re guessing you haven’t even thought of yet. There’s so much reading material books are often stacked on the floor and aisles, so watch your step.QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 50, tel. (+48) 42 630 34 57, www.antykwariat-bazar.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. GALERIA ARS NOVA A popular gallery devoted to promoting young Polish artists.QG‑3, ul. Zgierska 4, tel. (+48) 504 02 32 42. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILMS BOOKSHOP A great central bookstore that boasts two titles we mention in our Lodz ghetto section: Traces of the Litzmannstadt Ghetto and Łódź - The Golden Book.QC‑1, ul. Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 42 661 46 66. Open 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KSIĘGARNIA E. STOMPEL English language bookshop.QC‑2, ul. Piotrkowska 11, tel. (+48) 42 633 31 06, www.stompel.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. January - April 2016

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Shopping FASHION & ACCESSORIES

FOOD & SWEETS

NEW BARDZO ROZSĄDNIE This is a truly unique little shop that peddles attractive applied art at Very Reasonable prices. The store is organised to present a broad cross-section of what is happening (mostly, but not exclusively) in contemporary Polish design and graphic design. You will find here important publications, albums (in English!), graphics and illustrations, stationery, posters, hand made toys, home accessories and even some Łódź-themed souvenirs. The perfect place to find something nice for that special someone.QC‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 142, tel. (+48) 514 52 30 44. Open 11:00 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

KRAKOWSKI KREDENS An old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive yet exquisite Polish delicacies, including jams, honeys, liquors and even a tub of smalec for you diehard fans.QA‑1, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 630 08 84, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

BLOOM BOUTIQUE Stand out from the masses by visiting Bloom Boutique. Specialising in womenswear, bags and accessories by some of Poland’s top fashion designers (est by eS, Vivitt, 10 DECOART and Gepetto Polska) this is THE place to find short-run collections from the likes of Alexandra Markowska and Joanna Hawrot or award winning local designers Michał Szulc and Maria Wiatrowska. The regularly changing stock features pieces for a variety of occasions; casual, avant garde, business and evening wear. Come in and chat with the owner, Beata Andrzejczak (who speaks English and Italian), about the designers represented in the boutique. Apart from the local buzz surrounding her unique Łódź store, she has built up a following of return customers from around Europe and the U.S.A.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 506 08 47 93. Open 11:00 19:00, Fri 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. CONCEPT STORE BY LILOU This uniquely colourful and immediately inviting salon is not what might you expect from your typical jewellery shop. Paired with their sister company Lou Saints, their showcases are filled with all sorts of glittering gadgets, precious pendants, delicate necklaces and leather bracelets from both companies. Their elegantly playful nature of the salon gives you the freedom to mix and match any of the items on display. The expert and friendly staff will happily help you choose the right piece and customise it so that special someone will cherish their talisman even more. Lilou is the perfect melding of French elegance and Polish craftsmanship. QC‑3, ul. Piotrkowska 20, tel. (+48) 511 97 25 08, www. lilou.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. MOGADISHU.STORE Second-hand shops are something Łódź has in spades, though most aren’t worth braving the musty odours and messy displays to enter. Not so at Mogadishu, a store so stylish it took us several minutes to realise we were perusing used goods. Shoes, purses and clothes are all clean and modern in this airy, uncluttered space, and the display of handmade jewellery is a must-see.QC-2, ul. Rewolucji 1905 r. 6, tel. (+48) 698 04 53 52. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 70 Łódź In Your Pocket

PIJALNIA CZEKOLADY WEDEL A Polish legend that’s been operating since Karol Wedel first opened a chocolate factory in 1851. Check the handmade truffles and be sure to sit for a rich chocolate drink.QA/B‑1, Rynek (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 631 00 36, www. wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

pinterest.com/inyourpocket PRODUKTY BENEDYKTYŃSKIE This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excellent and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased through their (Polish only) website.Qul. Piotrkowska 200 (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 42 636 40 66, www.produktybenedyktynskie. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace and woodwork all look lovely on someone else’s mantle. Folk art is an easily recognizable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of the country’s favorite hero and saint-in-waiting Pope John Paul II. CEPELIA Your first stop for traditional (some might say tacky) souvenirs. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handicrafts like table cloths, ceramics, glass etc.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 97, tel. (+48) 42 630 35 41, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. INTERSPORT A sports shop that promises all the official Polish national football team gear and any other sporty equipment or attire you might need.QA/B‑1, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 12 444 88 88, www.intersport.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00. lodz.inyourpocket.com

Shopping TAX FREE SHOPPING Non-EU residents are entitled to claim a VAT refund when the purchased goods are exported in an unused condition outside the EU in personal luggage. Shop wherever you see the Global Blue logo. The minimum total purchase value with VAT per Tax Free Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free Form, have it stamped when leaving the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details check www.globalblue.com.

SHOPPING MALLS GALERIA ŁÓDZKA Opened in 2002 Galeria Łódzka became the first modern shopping centre in the city, with some 160 retail units occupying a space of 45,000 sqm. On the fashion front consumers needs are met by stores like Zara, H&M, Sunstage, Reserved, KappAhl and New Look, though those with credit cards tend to head in one direction alone: Peek & Cloppenburg, purveyors of a range of designer tags that include Boss Black and Boss Orange, Cerutti, Gaultier and Lacoste. Other needs come catered for in the shape of Home & You and cosmetic and beauty store Apteka SuperPharm. Added in the last year has been the first Stradivarius shop in town, as well as a store operated by Spanish clothing brand Pull & Bear. Food-wise there’s the standard mall mix, with all the big Yank franchises represented, as well as Hana Sushi, Sphinx Costa Coffee and North Fish. Ranked as Europe’s Best Shopping Centre in the 2004 ICSC Awards, GL realised their expansion plans fitting in even more stores than before. It’s within walking distance from Piotrkowska, though car owners can choose from 1,400 parking spaces (the first 3 hours are free!).QD‑7, Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23, tel. (+48) 42 639 15 00, www. galeria-lodzka.pl. Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

in Lódz’s restaurateurs then by all means, see if you can do better yourself. Your first point of call should be either Kuchnie Świata (first floor) or Toscana, right next door. In the former find a collection of hard-to-find goodies that range from Israeli fruit drinks to Marmite to a range of sauces from across the world. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in choice. Toscana is a similarly upmarket delicatessen, this one selling produce straight from Italy. Even more impressive mind is the Alma supermarket, a haven that features peso sauces imported from Liguria, hams courtesy of Krakowski Kredens, countless European cheeses and over 200 global coffee brands. After, why not hit Old Havana for your post-dinner cigar. Complete with a walk-in humidor chamber this is just the place for aficionados to test cigars imported from Cuba. Another store to watch for is the Apple iSpot for all your Mac needs. Outside the main range of shops don’t forego a visit to the craftsman’s alley between the Rynek and the mall; it’s here you’ll find all manner of stores including a cobblers, as well as privately run stores specialising in everything from metalwork to traditional rural-style souvenirs. The arrival of restaurants Polka and Bawełna is also a sure sign that Manufaktura has arrived. There’s also a newly added casino for those feeling lucky in Lodz. For a full map of the shopping centre or further info don’t be afraid to approach the English-speaking staff manning the information point at the main entrance.QA/B‑1, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 89, www.manufaktura.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

MANUFAKTURA SHOPPING GALLERY Filled with lunar curves and a light, bright atmosphere the shopping mall side to Manufaktura brings a new angle to the otherwise red brick architecture. The entire complex covers 27 hectares, and the mall has been split into four themes - industrial, cinema, design and textile - so as to make navigation easier. Those arriving with their kids in tow should consider dispatching them to the crèche found just off the Rynek, close to the Bella Napoli restaurant. Flagship stores include Leroy Merlin as well as a vast range of brand name clothing stores like Hugo Boss, Hilfiger, H&M, Timberland, a designer baby shop called LuxBaby and an Adidas superstore. In total 306 retail units are occupied with other tenants including the Smyk toy store, Saturn, EMPiK and RTV EURO AGD. It’s not just mega-brand stores though that are drawing processions of spenders, but a top selection of specialist stores that you’ll be lucky to find elsewhere, let alone under one roof. If you’re not ready to put your trust facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

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Directory 24HR PHARMACIES CITOQA‑4, ul. Żeromskiego 39, tel. (+48) 42 633 48 29, www.apteka-cito.com.pl. MAGICZNAQB‑3, ul. Zachodnia 81/83, tel. (+48) 42 630 75 75, www.magiczna.com.

24HR SHOPS U BRONKA QG‑3, ul. Wojska Polskiego 82, tel. (+48) 42 616 07 60. ZETKA QE‑7, ul. Kilińskiego 153.

CONFERENCE ORGANISERS BOROWIECKI HOTEL QF‑3, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 288 01 00, www. hotelborowiecki.pl. DOUBLETREE BY HILTON ŁÓDŹ QA‑7, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 208 80 80, www. doubletreelodz.pl. IBIS HOTEL QD‑7, Al. Piłsudskiego 11, tel. (+48) 42 638 67 00, www. ibis.com. SYNERGIA BUSINESS CENTER QC‑7, ul. Wólczańska 128/134, tel. (+48) 695 58 11 81, www.synergia.lodz.pl.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Qul. Gagarina 34, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81, www. ambasadaaustrii.pl. DENMARK QB‑3, ul. Marszałkowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 565 29 00, www.polen.um.dk. GERMANY Qul. Jazdów 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00, www. warszawa.diplo.de. HUNGARY Qul. Chopina 2, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 537 56 60, www. mfa.gov.hu/kulkepviselet/PL/pl. LATVIA Qul. Królowej Aldony 19, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 617 11 05, www.mfa.gov.lv/pl/poland. UNITED KINGDOM Qul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www. gov.uk/government/world/poland. 72 Łódź In Your Pocket

DENTISTS INTERSTOM QC‑5, Al. Kościuszki 32, tel. (+48) 42 632 57 11.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS INTERNATIONAL PRIMARY SCHOOL OF INNOVATIVE TRAINING IN ŁÓDŹ QG‑3, ul. Pomorska 83/85, tel. (+48) 501 32 32 57, podstawowa.sei.edu.pl.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS AKCENT Qul. Żwirki 17, tel. (+48) 42 637 48 24, www.akcentedu.pl. SCHOOL OF POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS AT THE UNIVERSITY OF ŁÓDŹ QH‑3, ul. Matejki 21/23, tel. (+48) 42 635 47 00, www. sjpdc.uni.lodz.pl.

LOCAL GOVERNMENT BUREAU OF PROMOTION, TOURISM AND INTERNATIONAL COOPERATION QC‑5, Al. Politechniki 32 (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 42 638 58 60, www.uml.lodz.pl. CITY OF ŁÓDŹ OFFICE QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 638 40 00, www. uml.lodz.pl. CUSTOMS OFFICE IN ŁÓDŹ QI‑5, ul. Lodowa 97, tel. (+48) 42 638 82 22, www.lodz. scelna.gov.pl. lodz.inyourpocket.com

Directory MARSHAL’S OFFICE QD‑6, Al. Piłsudskiego 8, tel. (+48) 42 663 33 80, www. lodzkie.pl.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE

MAYOR’S OFFICE The President of the city is a woman called Hanna Zdanowska.QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 638 41 15, www.uml.lodz.pl. VOIVODSHIP OFFICE QC‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 664 10 00, www. lodzkie.eu.

POST OFFICES POCZTA POLSKA QD‑5, ul. Tuwima 38, tel. (+48) 42 632 58 16, www. poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. POCZTA POLSKA QF‑4, Al. Włókniarzy 227, tel. (+48) 42 634 41 34, www. poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs. POCZTA POLSKA QB‑4, Al. Kościuszki 5/7, tel. (+48) 42 632 41 05, www. poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

PRIVATE CLINICS ESKULAP QD‑4, ul. Traugutta 25, tel. (+48) 42 632 91 56, www. eskulap-lekarze.pl. SALVE QC‑5, ul. Struga 3, tel. (+48) 42 633 56 61, www.salve.pl.

REAL ESTATE DSI.COM NIERUCHOMOŚCI QB‑3, ul. Więckowskiego 20, tel. (+48) 508 06 26 60, www.dsi.com.pl. ESTATE QB‑3, ul. Piotrkowska 22, tel. (+48) 42 630 54 23, www. estate.lodz.pl. MEZCOMPU QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 71/3, tel. (+48) 42 634 02 02, www.mezcompu.com.pl. TOBACO PARK QF‑4, ul. Kopernika 62, tel. (+48) 42 637 22 33, www. arche.pl.

Full contents online: lodz.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Łódź, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission. KANTOR EXCHANGE GROUP QD‑7, Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (Galeria Łódzka), tel. (+48) 42 636 01 62. Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. KANTOR EXCHANGE GROUP QA/B‑1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 634 84 98. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES REFORMED CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ EWANGELICKO REFORMOWANY) QG‑4, ul. Radwańska 37, tel. (+48) 42 637 74 44, www. lodz.reformowani.net.pl. Services on Sundays and holy days at 10:30.

RELOCATION COMPANIES CORSTJENS WORLDWIDE MOVERS GROUP Qul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 737 72 00, www.corstjens.com.

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETORS TRADO QE‑4, ul. Narutowicza 35 lok.24, tel. (+48) 42 635 35 50, www.trado.pl. TRANSLATERIA QF‑4, ul. Struga 78, tel. (+48) 662 44 99 84, www. translateria.pl. January - April 2016

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Hotels

Go for a swim in the clouds at DoubleTree.

For many years the hotel sector in Lodz didn’t reflect its position as the country’s third biggest city. While the skyscraping 5-star international brands have still yet to arrive here, the sector has seen a marked improvement in recent years with a series of new and renovated hotels opening their doors. And with the improved rooms you can expect improved service as well with English much more widely spoken and with extras such as wireless internet, spas, swimming pools and gyms now coming as standard in many places. With rates tending to fluctuate it’s well worth taking a look at the hotelcalculator price comparison function on the pages of lodz.inyourpocket.com to see what rates the major booking engines are offering. Here are a few suggestions depending on what you are looking for: SPLURGE The city lacks the skyscrapers of neighbouring Warsaw or the honeymoon retreats of twee Krakow, but finding decent lodgings is no longer the mission impossible of yesteryear. Topping the lot is the Andels, an internationally acclaimed behemoth set in a former factory that issues guests iPhones for navigation purposes. Further afield Stacja Nowa Gdynia is a great country club style retreat set in a wooded area with lakeside views. COUPLES One choice really, and that’s the Revelo, a great boutique hotel with rooms themed on the inter-war period. It’s not as luxurious as the prices suggest, but it’s still a place with 74 Łódź In Your Pocket

oodles of character and plenty of charm. If you prize spoonfeeding each other molecular cuisine then choose NoBo Hotel, whose on-site restaurant Kolory Wina has perfected the modern menu. BARGAIN Linat Orchim offer beds from 120 zlots upwards and while the accommodation is nowhere near as character-filled as the building it’s nonetheless a great deal. Hostels have finally arrived in Lodz, and you can find sparkling new options right in the heart of the city now with Cynamon hostel. GROUPS Check the Focus, a super mid-range option that’s both modern and mass-market in style to easily accomodate large parties with plenty of space. For something closer to town there’s the Campanile. And newcomer Holiday Inn is a dazzling option with modern rooms on central Piotrkowska for quick access to all the action in the city. HISTORY No hotel boasts a finer history than the Grand, a hulking art nouveau building overlooking Piotrkowska. Famous guests aplenty here, from Tito to... Himmler. If you’re a fan of film history then Stare Kino Cinema Residence is most certainly the place for you. The comfortable Hotel and Apartment rooms are tastefully designed and steeped in history as it was in this very building the first Movie Theatre in Poland appeared at the beginning of the 20th Century. lodz.inyourpocket.com

Hotels CREAM OF THE CROP ANDEL’S HOTEL ŁÓDŹ QB‑1, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 279 10 00, www.andelslodz.com. 277  rooms (220  singles, 220  doubles, 52  apartments, 4  Maisonette Suite, 1  Maisonette Deluxe). P­H­6­U­F­K­D­XC ­ ­w hhhh

UPMARKET AMBASADOR CENTRUM QE‑6, Al. Piłsudskiego 29, tel. (+48) 42 677 15 20, www. hotelambasador.eu. 143 rooms (71 singles, 68 doubles, 4 apartments). H­U­F­L­K­D­C hhhh BOROWIECKI QF‑3, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 288 01 00, www. hotelborowiecki.pl. 56  rooms (18  singles, 36  doubles, 2 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­K hhh DOUBLETREE BY HILTON ŁÓDŹ QA‑7, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 208 80 00, www. doubletreelodz.pl. 200 rooms (189 singles, 189 doubles, 10  suites, 1  Presidential Apartment). P­6­U­F­K­ D­C­w hhhh HOLIDAY INN LODZ QG‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 229/231, tel. (+48) 42 208 20 00, www.hilodz.com. 127 rooms (117 singles, 117 doubles, 10 suites). P­H­U­F­L­K­D hhhh NOBO HOTEL QF‑2, ul. Liściasta 86 / Al. Włókniarzy, tel. (+48) 42 234 14 61, www.nobohotel.pl. 25  rooms (24  singles, 24 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H6 ­ ­U­L­K hhh NOVOTEL ŁÓDŹ CENTRUM QD‑7, Al. Piłsudskiego 11a, tel. (+48) 42 254 39 00, www.novotel.com. 161 rooms (160 singles, 144 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­F­K hhhh QUBUS HOTEL ŁÓDŹQB‑7, Al. Mickiewicza 7, tel. (+48) 42 275 51 00, www.qubushotel.com. 78  rooms (55 singles, 23 doubles). P­H­6­U­L­K­X hhh REVELOQD‑7, ul. Wigury 4/6, tel. (+48) 42 636 86 86, www.revelo.pl. 3  rooms (2  singles, 2  doubles, 1 apartment). H­L­K STACJA NOWA GDYNIAQF‑1, ul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz, tel. (+48) 42 714 21 61, www.hotelnowagdynia.pl. 19 rooms (18 singles, 18 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­ 6­U­F­L­K­D­C­w hhh TOBACO HOTEL QF‑4, ul. Kopernika 64, tel. (+48) 42 207 07 07, www. hoteltobaco.pl. 115  rooms (46  singles, 67  doubles, 2 suites). H­6­UF ­ ­L­K­D hhh facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

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Hotels 1905 REVOLUTION Mix a working class culture with a hatred for Imperial Russia and you get a volatile mix – and so it proved in 1905, when the people of Łódź rose in rebellion against their Russkie rulers. Russia’s disastrous military campaign against Japan had far reaching consequences, battering an already fragile economy. Over 100,000 Polish workers found themselves laid off, and no city felt the pinch more than the factory city of Łódź. A wave of popular unrest spread across the Russian Empire, reaching a nadir with the massacre of demonstrators in St Petersburg on January 22nd. By then workers in Łódź were already on strike, and by the end of the month this discontent had morphed into street protests. By this stage over 400,000 workers had laid down their tools across the country, paralysing the economy and panicking the Russian authorities. Tensions continued to simmer in the months that followed, finally exploding in June when Tsarist police opened fire on a workers march in Łódź, killing ten people. The funerals, held on June 20 and June 21, became the focus of further demonstrations, and the Cossack Cavalry were ordered to charge into the unruly, stone-throwing mob. Twenty five people were killed, and by nightfall what had started off as a demonstration had turned into a full scale revolt. Violence spread across the city, with insurgents united under a red banner. By June 23 the situation had escalated out of control, prompting Tsar Nicholas II to sign a decree enforcing Martial Law in the city. Over the next couple of days battles raged in the streets of Łódź, with the revolutionaries not just facing Russian troops, but also the supporters of Roman Dmowski’s National Democratic Party. An attempt to bolster the insurgents’ numbers by sending sympathetic supporters from Warsaw was thwarted, and by June 25 the last of the barricades was captured. Official sources put civilian casualties at 151, though many locals dispute this figure as an under-estimate. The Łódź Insurrection ultimately proved a chaotic and tragic failure, although it did manage to serve as a catalyst as copycat riots and strikes across Poland quickly rose up in the wake of the failed Łódź Insurrection. The various riots and protests across Poland become collectively known as the Revolution in the Kingdom of Poland. The Poles had once more shown the Russians they wouldn’t be pushed around. Not long after, Polish Independence was finally achieved in the aftermath of WWI. Today the momentous events of 1905 are largely forgotten in Łódź, though those with a nose for history should visit the Museum of the Tradition of Independence – set inside a former prison, it’s here that scores of demonstrators found themselves incarcerated. 76 Łódź In Your Pocket

MID-RANGE BOUTIQUE HOTEL QC‑4, ul. Rewolucji 1905r. 8, tel. (+48) 512 20 10 80, www.hotels24.com.pl. 69 rooms (20 singles, 40 doubles, 4 triples, 2 suites, 1 apartment). CAMPANILE QE‑6, Al. Piłsudskiego 27, tel. (+48) 42 664 26 00, www.campanile-lodz.pl. 104  rooms (104  singles, 104 doubles). P­H­6­U­K­X hh CUD MIÓD GUESTROOMS QF‑3, Al. Włókniarzy 151, tel. (+48) 665 18 90 50, www. cudmiod.pl. 5 rooms (5 singles, 5 doubles). 6­K FOCUS QA‑7, ul. Łąkowa 23/25, tel. (+48) 42 637 12 00, www. focushotels.pl. 110  rooms (49  singles, 54  doubles, 7 triples). P­H­6­U­F­K­D­X hhh GRAND HOTEL QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 72, tel. (+48) 42 633 99 20, www.grandlodz.pl. 89  rooms (41  singles, 27  doubles, 14 suites, 7 apartments). P­H­6­U­L­K hhh IBIS QD‑7, Al. Piłsudskiego 11, tel. (+48) 42 638 67 00, www. ibis.com. 207 rooms (207 singles, 207 doubles). P­H­ 6­U­K hh LINAT ORCHIM DOM GOŚCINNY QC‑2, ul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 632 46 61, www. linatorchim.pl. 23  rooms (23  singles, 23  doubles, 23 triples, 23 quads). 6 MAZOWIECKI QG‑4, ul. 28 Pułku Strzelców Kaniowskich 53/57, tel. (+48) 42 637 43 33, www.hotelmazowiecki. com. 105  rooms (63  singles, 38  doubles, 3  suites, 1 apartment). H­6­U­K hh SAVOY QC‑4, ul. Traugutta 6, tel. (+48) 42 632 93 60, www. savoy.centrumhotele.pl. 91  rooms (57  singles, 33 doubles, 1 apartment). H­6­U hh ŚWIATOWIT QC‑6, Al. Kościuszki 68, tel. (+48) 42 636 36 37, www. swiatowit.centrumhotele.pl. 201  rooms (125  singles, 74  doubles, 1  quad, 2  apartments). P­H­6­U­K hhh ZAJAZD RUBIN QG‑6, ul. Scaleniowa 11, tel. (+48) 42 689 25 90, www. hotelrubin.pl. 11  rooms (1  single, 6  doubles, 1  triple, 2 suites, 1 apartment). 6­K hhh

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Hotels @InYourPocket

BUDGET ADRIA QG‑5, ul. Obywatelska 152, tel. (+48) 42 686 47 94, www.adriahotel.pl. 11  rooms (3  singles, 5  doubles, 1 triple, 2 apartments). 6­L

Your Home in Travel!

CENTRUM SZKOLENIOWO – KONFERENCYJNE UNIWERSYTETU ŁÓDZKIEGO QG/H‑3, ul. Kopcińskiego 16/18, tel. (+48) 42 635 54 90, www.csk.uni.lodz.pl. 60 rooms (56 singles, 42 doubles, 4 apartments). P­H­6­K POLONIA PALAST QD‑3, ul. Narutowicza 38, tel. (+48) 42 632 87 73, www.polonia.centrumhotele.pl. 83  rooms (30  singles, 46 doubles, 7 triples). H­6­U hh

Central location - Piotrkowska Street

APARTMENTS ARRIVIA BED & BREAKFAST QD‑4, ul. Narutowicza 24/34, tel. (+48) 602 78 33 44, www.arrivia.eu. 4 rooms (4 apartments). L HOME&TRAVEL QC‑3, ul. Piotrkowska 21, tel. (+48) 42 633 80 80, www. hometravel.pl. 18 rooms (18 apartments). P STARE KINO CINEMA RESIDENCE QG‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 42 207 27 27, www. cinemahotel.pl. 42 rooms (42 apartments). H­6­K

Free parking available

HOSTELS BOUTIQUE HOSTEL QG‑4, ul. Stefanowskiego 17, tel. (+48) 512 22 10 22, www.hotels24.com.pl. 41 rooms (11 singles, 22 doubles, 8 triples).

vine.co/inyourpocket CYNAMON HOSTEL QD‑5, ul. Sienkiewicza 40, tel. (+48) 42 209 34 79, www.cynamonhostel.pl. 25 rooms (2 singles, 7 doubles, 2  triples, 3  quads, 130  dorm beds, 2  Six-person room, 4 Eight-person room, 2 Ten-person room). H­6 MUSIC HOSTEL QC‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 60, tel. (+48) 533 53 32 63, www. music-hostel.pl. 6 rooms (2 doubles, 2 triples, 2 quads, 12 dorm beds). 6 facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket

Wifi and satellite TV - free of charge ul. Piotrkowska 21 90-406 Łódź tel.: +48/42/633-80-80 fax. +48/42/633-80-10 www.hometravel.pl January - April 2016

77

ALL IN DOUBLE Rooms | Conference | Restaurant | Spa & Health Club | Pool | 3D Cinema

T: +48 42 208 80 00 | E: [email protected] | www.doubletreelodz.pl | lodz.doubletree.com

0m

1300 m

NoBo

Borowiecki Arrivia B&B

DoubleTree

a Zbiorcz

Campanile

Focus Tobaco

Novotel Centrum Qubus

Revelo

Holiday Inn Lodz Boutique Hostel I. Skorupki

Boutique Hotel

Iness

£Ûdü Chojny

Ambasador

3250 m

Art Museum - ms²

Art Museum - ms¹

andel’s

Museum of the Factory

Pharmacy Museum

City of Łódź

Bedrooms

Dętka Canal

Arrivia B&B

0m

300 m

Street Mural

600 m

Knychalskiego

DoubleTree by Hilton

Focus

Qubus

Holiday Inn Lodz

City Hall

Novotel Centrum

Ambassador Centrum

Campanile

EC1

New Centre of Łódź

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Street Register 1 Maja, al. A/B-3 (F-3) 11-go Listopada F-1 3 Maja F/G-6 6 Sierpnia A/C-4 (F-3/4) Abramowskiego G/H-4 Aksamitna I-1 Andrzejewskiej H/I-4 Anstadta, al. E-1/2 Anyżowa F-1 Barlickiego, pl. A-4 Bartoka I-4 Bednarska G-5 Bema, gen. F/G-1/2 Beskidzka H/I-2 Biegańskiego F/G-2 Boya-Żeleńskiego G-2 Bracka G-2 Bratysławska F-4 Broniewskiego G/H-5 Bronisławy G/H-5 Brukowa F-1/2 Brzezińska H/I-2 Brzeźna G-4 Brzoskwiniowa F-1 Brzózki, ks. F-2/3 Budy I-2 Bystrzycka H-3 Centralna G/H-2 Cieszyńska F/G-5 Cicha H-4 Codzienna H-5 Cyprysowa F-1 Czahary F-5 Czapli G-1 Czechosłowacka H-3 Czernika I-4 Dąbrowskiego G/I-5 Dąbrowskiego, gen., pl. E-3 Dobois F-5/6 Dobrzyńska F-5 Doły H-3 Dostawcza H/I-5 Dowborczyków E-5/6 Drewnowska A/B-1 (F/G-3) Edwarda H-3 Elektronowa F-3 Eugeniusza F/G-5 Folwarczana G-2 Franciszka z Asyżu, św. F-5 Franciszkańska D-1 (G-2/3) Gandhiego F-3 Gdańska A/B-2/7 (G-3/4) Giewont I-2/3 Gładka G-5/6 Gojawiczyńskiej H-5 Góralska G-2 Górnicza G-2 Górska I-3 Grota-Roweckiego H-4 Grunwaldzka F-2 Harcerzy Legionistów, al. D-5 Haśka I-4 Herbowa H-2 Hipoteczna F-2 Hoffmanowej F-6 Hotelowa C-4 Chałubinskiego H/I-2 Chłędowskiego H-5 Chmurna H-3 Inflancka G/H-2 Ireny H-5 Jabłoniowa F-1

84 Łódź In Your Pocket

Jakuba C/D-1 Jana Pawła II, al. F/G-4/5 Janosika H/I-2/3 Jaracza C/E-3 (G/H-3) Jarzynowa F-3 Jastrzębia G-1 Jerzego, św. F-3 Jesionowa F-1 Józefa H-4 Józewskiego, al. C-6 Julianowska F/G-2 Kacza G-1 Kadłubka H-5 Kalinowa F-2 Karpacka G-5 Kasprzaka F-3 Kasztelańska G/H-1/2 Kilińskiego D/E-1/7 (G-3/5) Klonowa F-3 Kniaziewicza F-2 Kołobrzeska F-5 Kołowa G/H-5 Komorniki H-5 Komuny Paryskiej, pl. C/D-5 Koniakowska H-2 Konstantynowska F-3/4 Konstytucyjna H-3 Kopcińskiego G/H-3/4 Kopernika A/B-5/6 (F/G-4) Kościuszki, al. B/C-4/7 (G-3/4) Kossaka H-5 Kostki G-4 Kosynierów Gdyńskich G-5/6 Krakusa G-5 Krasnoludków G-1 Kraszewskiego G-5 Krecia F/G-1 Krokusowa H-3 Królewska G-6 Kryształowa H-1/2 Krzemieniecka F-4 Książka H-1/2 Kurczaki H-6 Kusocińskiego F-4 Łabędzia F/G-1 Łagiewnicka G-1/3 Łąkowa A-6/7 Lawinowa H/I-3 Łazowskiego G-5/6 Legionów A/B-2 (G-3) Leszczynowa G-2 Limanowskiego F/G-2/3 Lipowa A-3/6 Liściasta F-1/2 Listopadowa I-2/3 Lodowa H/I-4/5 Łodzianka H-1 Łomnicka H-2/3 Łomżyńska G-5 Łozowa F-1 Łukaszewska H/I-1 Łukowa F/G-5/6 Łupkowa H-1/2 Lutomierska F/G-3 Macierzanki F-1 Mała A-4 Małachowskiego H-3 Maratońska F-4/5 Marczyńskich F/G-1 Marysińska G-2/3 Maszynowa I-4

Matejki H-3 Mazowiecka H-3 Mickiewicza, al. A/C-7 (F/G-4) Mielczarskiego A-2 Milionowa G/H-4 Miodowa G-1 Modrzewskiego G-5 Moniuszki C/D-4 Morelowa G-2 Moskuliki H/I-1/2 Nad Niemnem I-3 Narutowicza C/E-3/4 (G/H-3) Nawrot C/E-6 (G-4) Niciarniana H-3/4 Niedziałkowskiego F-6 Nowa G-4 Nowe Sady F-4/5 Nowomiejska C-1/2 (G-3) Obywatelska F/G-5 Odrzańska F-6 Ogrodowa A/B-1/2 (G-3) Okólna H/I-1/2 Okopowa G-2 Okrętowa H-2 Okulickiego F-1 Opolska H/I-2 Organizacji WiN G-3 Orkana H-5 Orla D/E-7 Orzelskiej H/I-1 Pabianicka F/G-5/6 Pacanowskiej C-1 Paderewskiego G-5 Parkowa F/G-4 Pawilońska G-1/2 Pieniny I-3 Pienista F-5 Pietrusińskiego F-3 Piłsudskiego, marsz., al. D/E-6/7 (G/H-4) Piotrkowska C-2/7 (G-3/5) Piramowicza D-3 Piwnika H-4 Płocka G/H-5 Podgórna H-5 Podhalańska H-5 Podmiejska G-5 Podrzeczna B/C-1 Pogonowskiego A-3/6 Pojezierska F-2 Politechniki, al. G-4/5 Polna F-2/3 Północna C/E-1 (G-3) Polskiej Org. Wojskowej E-2/4 Pomorska C/E-2 (F/I-3) Poprzeczkowa G-2 Potokowa I-3 Poziomków F-1 Poznańska G/H-4/5 Prądzyńskiego F-5 Prezydenta H/I-2 Próchnika A/C-2/3 Promienna G/H-2 Pryncypialna G-5/6 Przedświt G-5/6 Przędzalniana G-3/4 Przepiórcza G-1 Przewodnia F/G-6 Przybyszewskiego G/I-4 Przyjaźni, al. I-4

Przyrodnicza F/G-2 Przyszkole F/G-5 Pstrągowa F-1 Pszczelna G-1 Pszczyńska H/I-3 Pustynna F-5 Puszkina I-4/5 Radwańska G-4 Retkińska F-4 Rewolucji 1905 r. C/E-2 Rodakowskiego H-5 Rogowska H-1 Rokicińska H/I-4 Rolnicza H-5 Romana G-5/6 Roosevelta C/D-6 Róż, al. G-2 Rubinsteina, dr, al. C-4 Ruchliwa G-5/6 Rumuńska F-2 Rybacka G-2 Rydla H-5 Rydza-Śmigłego, marsz. H-4/5 Rynkowskiej, al. B/C-6 Rzgowska G/H-5/6 Sałacińskiego, pl. E-4 Sanocka G-5 Sawickiego I-1 Senatorska G/H-4 Schillera, al. C/D-5 Sianokosy F-1 Sienkiewicza D-4/7 (G-3/4) Sieradzka G-5 Sikorskiego, gen. F/G-1 Skalna I-3 Składowa D/E-4 Skłodowskiej-Curie A/B-5/6 Skowrończa G-1 Skrzydlata G-1/2 Śląska G/I-5 Smugowa D/E-1 (G-3) Smutna H-3 Śnieżna H-2 Solna D-1/2 Sowińskiego, gen. F/G-2 Sporna G-2/3 Srebrzyńska F/G-3 Stalowa G-2 Stanisława F-5/6 Stary Rynek C-1 Stawowa F-1 Sterlinga E-1/4 Stocka G-4 Stokowska H-2/3 Strażnicza H-5/6 Struga A/C-5 (F-4) Strusia G/H-1/2 Strycharska G-5 Stryka H-3 Strykowska G/I-1/3 Strzelecka H-6 Świetlana F-2 Świętojańska F-5/6 Świtezianki F/G-1 Szenwalda G-5 Szletyńskiego, al. D-5 Szternfelda H-5/6 Tagorea G-5 Tamka H-3 Targowa E-4/5 Taternicza H-2/3 Tatrzańska H-4/5

Techniczna I-5 Telefoniczna H/I-3 Teresy od Dzieciątka Jezus, św. F-2 Tomaszowska I-5/6 Traugutta C/D-4 (G-3) Trybunalska G-6 Turza H-4 Tuszyńska G-5/6 Tuwima C/E-5 (F/G-3/4) Tymienieckiego G/H-4 Unii Lubelskiej, al. F-3/4 Urzędnicza F/G-2 Wałbrzyska G-2 Walickiego, al. D-5 Wandurskiego H-4/5 Wapienna F-3 Warszawska G/H-1/2 Wedmanowej H-5 Węglowa E-4 Widzewska H-4 Więckowskiego A/B-3 Wiejska H-4 Wielkopolska F-2 Wieniawskiego F-4/5 Wigury C/E-7 (G-4) Wiklinowa F-1 Wileńska F-1 Wiosenna G-5 Wiośniana H-5 Wiślicka I-2/3 Włókiennicza C/D-3 Włókniarzy F-1/4 Wodna G-3/4 Wojska Polskiego G/H-2/3 Wolborska C/D-1 (G-3) Wólczańska B/C-3/7 (G-4/5) Wolności, pl. C-2 Wróblewskiego F/G-4 Wschodnia C-1/4 Wycieczkowa G/H-1/2 Wypoczynkowa H-2 Wysoka G-3/4 Wyszyńskiego F-4 Zagajnicza G-2 Zachodnia B-1/4 Zamenhofa A/C-6 Zamojska F-5 Zamorska F-5 Zaolziańska G-5 Zarzewska G-4/5 Zaścianek Bohatyrowicze H/I-1 Zbaraska H-5 Zbąszyńska F-2 Zbiorowa H-4 Zbocze I-3 Żeromskiego A/B-2 (F/G-3/4) Zgierska F/G-1/3 Zgodna G-5/6 ZHP, al. C-6 Zielona A/C-4 (F-3) Zjazdowa I-1/2 Źlebowa H/I-3 Zmienna H-2 Żmichowskiej H-5 Źródłowa G-3 Żucza G-1 Żwirki C-7 (F/G-4) Żwirowa H-5 Zygmunta H-5/6

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Index A&A Dom Jubilerski 69 Abracadabra Da Club 35 Adria 77 All Star Klubokawiarnia 35 Alte Szil Synagogue 63 Ambasador Centrum 75 American Bull 40 Anatewka 27, 40 andel's Hotel Łódź 75 Angelo 25 Antykwariat Komiks 69 Aquapark Fala 67 Arena Laser Games 46 Arrivia Bed & Breakfast 77 Art Museum - ms¹ 56 Art Museum - ms² 46 ato sushi 26 Bajka Disco Club 35 Bałucki Rynek 64 Bardzo Rozsądnie 70 Bawełna 40 Bedroom 35 Bella Napoli 40 Bierhalle 40, 45 Bistro Korzenie 29 Bloom Boutique 70 Body Line Group 65 Bombonierka 66 Bookshop 69 Borowiecki 75 Boutique Hostel 77 Boutique Hotel 76 Breadnia 20, 22 Buddha Pub 33 Bystro 22 Cafe Julian Tuwim w Chatce Ech 30 Cafe Verte 30 Campanile 76 Catholic Cathedral 54 Central Museum of Textiles 56 Centrum Szkoleniowo – Konferencyjne Uniwersytetu Łódzkiego 77 Centrum Wspinaczkowe Stratosfera 46 Cepelia 70 Cesky Film Restaurant & Pub 20 Chlebak 30 Chłopska Izba 28 Chmielowa Dolina 33 Church of the Assumption of Our Blessed Mary 54, 64 Cinema City 46 City Tenis Club 66 City Tourist Information Centre 55 Club Shisha Sahara 35 Concept Store by Lilou 70 Costa Coffee 45 Crystal Fashion 69 Cud Miód 28 Cud Miód Guestrooms 76 Cynamon Hostel 77 Czekolada 35 Decalogue Monument 63 Delight Restaurant 40 Dom 51 DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź 75 Drukarnia Skład Wina & Chleba 50

Dzika Kaczka 22 Elite - Whisky & Cigars 33 Empik 48 ESPA CLINIC 66 Esplanada Kompania Kuflowa 20 Experymentarium 46 Focus 76 Foto Cafe 102 33 Fountain of Love 58 Four Colors 22 French Potato 42 Galeria Ars Nova 69 Galeria Łódzka 68, 71 Galicja 42 Ganesh 42 Ganimedes 51 Gastromachina Stacja 19 GLOW CLUB 36 Golden Bar 34 Grakula 46 Grand Coffee 30 Grand Hotel 76 Green Way 42 Grupa Fabricum 55 Gypsy Camp 63 Hana Sushi 43 Helenowek Orphanage 64

EC1 East behind the scenes

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Holiday Inn Lodz 75 Home&Travel 77 Hot Spoon 43 House of Sushi 26 Ibis 76 IMAX 46 In Centro 29 Intersport 70 Irish Pub 22, 34 Istanbul Tajmahal 22 Italica 25 Jaffa 27 Jaracz's Chair 54 Jazda!Park 65 Jewish Cemetery 63 Jewish Community Centre 64 Julian Tuwim’s Bench 55 Kamari 21 Karczma u Chochoła 28 Kebab House 27 Klub Wino 36, 69 Kokoo 36 Krakowski Kredens 70 Księgarnia E. Stompel 69 Kuchnie Świata 48 Łagiewnicki Forest 58 La Vende 43

Photo by: Katarzyna Adamek-Chase

January - April 2016

85

Index

Slice through the ice at Manufaktura’s outdoor skating rink. Le Loft 20 Leon Schiller National Higher School of Film, Television and Theatre 59 Let Me Out 66 Lilou 69 Linat Orchim Dom Gościnny 76 Litera Cafe 31 Łódź Kaliska 34 Łódź Walk of Fame 59 Lokal 28 Lordi's Club & Foo Foo Bar 36 Loża Club 36 Magazyn 82 34 Magnes 36 Malinowa 23 Mañana 29 Manekin 29 Manufaktura Shopping Gallery 71 Max Ice & Coffee 45 Mazowiecki 76 Mebloteka Yellow 51 Meimei 43 Miś Uszatek Monument 55 MITMI restobar 50 Mogadishu.store 70 Moniuszko Park 58 Montag 31 Monument to the 1905 Insurrection 55 MOTYWY 23 Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography 56 Museum of Cinematography 59 Museum of Natural History 57 Museum of the City of Łódź 57 Museum of the Factory 46 Museum of the Tradition of Independence 57 Music Hostel 77 New York - Music Club 36 Niebostan 34 NoBo Hotel 75 North Fish 43 Novotel Łódź Centrum 75 Old Havana Cigars & Accessories 48 Old Jewish Cemetery 64 Old Synagogue 63 Old Town Square 58 Open-air Museum of the Łódź Wooden Architecture 57 Orthodox Church 54

86 Łódź In Your Pocket

Oscar's Bar 45 Otwarte Drzwi 25 Paleta Bieli 23 Palm House 58 Pan Tu Nie Stał 51 Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel 45, 70 Piknik 26 Piwnica Smaków 28 Piwoteka 69 Piwoteka Narodowa 34 Pizza Hut 43 Planetarium EC1 66 Polka 44 Polonia Palast 77 Pomodoro 26 Pope John Paul II 55 Pozytyvka 29 Presto 26 Produkty Benedyktyńskie 70 Przędza Coffee/Bar 31 Przerwa 24 PTTK - Polish Tourist and Sightseeing Society 55 Qubus Hotel Łódź 75 Radegast Station 62 Rajskie Jadło 44 Restauracja Gronowalski 21 Restauracja Kolory Wina 24 Restauracja Łaźnia 28 Restauracja u Kretschmera 24 Restauracja Włoszczyzna 26 Revelo 21, 75 Savoy 76 Schupo and Gestapo HQ 64 Segway Tours 55 Sendai Sushi 26 Senoritas Mexican American Restaurant & Lounge 27 SerVantka 20 Sienkiewicz Park 58 skySPAce 66 Ślepy Maks 28 Slim & Beauty 67 Smulsko 65 SODA Underground Stage 36 SPA & Health Club in DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź 67 Spaleni Słońcem 51 Spektakl 24 Spółdzielnia 50

Sports and Tourism Museum of the City of Łódź 58 Sporty Ekstremalne 4x4 65 Stacja Nowa Gdynia 65, 75 Stajnia Oleńka 66 Stare Kino Cinema Residence 77 Statue of Leon Schiller 60 St. Joseph's Church 54 Sushi Kushi 26 Świat Kobiet 67 Światowit 76 Synagogue 63, 64 Szpulka 20, 44 Szwalnia Smaków - Słodka Nić 24 Tadeusz Kościuszko 55 Tango Argentino Steakhouse 19 Tari Bari Bistro 51 Tawerna Pepe Verde 44 Teremok 28 The Ghetto Bridges 64 The Lamp Man 56 The Monument in Commemoration of the Polish Children Martyrdom 63 The Red House 64 Three Factory Owners 56 Timberland 48 Tkalnia Smaku 24 Tobaco Hotel 75 Toscana 48 Tourist Information Point 55 Victims of Communism 56 Wiki 65 W. Kruk 69 Władysław Reymont’s Trunk 56 Yes 69 Zajazd Rubin 76 Zbożowa 29 ZET Cafe 31 Z Innej Beczki 34 Złota Kaczka 19 Złoty Imbir 20 ZOO 66

FEATURES INDEX 1905 Revolution 76 Breakfast 20 Currency exchange 73 Decoding the Menu 24 Easter 67 Facts & Figures 11 Krzysztof Kieślowski 60 Language 12 Market Values 11 Quick Eats 29 Rickshaws 31 Rivers of Łódź 44 The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity 6 Tipping Tribulations 27 lodz.inyourpocket.com

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