Jag At

My corner: Visit to fort Sardrgarh : Journey back in time As it happens during all Diwali breaks, we were little late to wake up. As a result ‘No vacancy’- in trains, planes or hotels. So as I do routinely, I turned to my travel agent for suggestions. She told me just one name - fort Sardargarh in Rajasthan. I said; well your agency’s name is ‘destinations unlimited’ but here you are giving me very limited options. She gave me a very penetrative looks, as if to say “those who don’t plan their vacations in advance have to be content with the leftovers". Instead, she said ‘we will discuss the place once you are back’. So there we were, heading north towards Udaipur. This place is 94 km north of Udaipur on Udaipur - Ajmer highway (NH 8). I love driving on Himmatnagar – Udaipur stretch. This stretch of road has everything which a driving enthusiast (like me!) can ask for. It has wide four lanes, it has barricades on either side, has enough twists, turns, ups and downs and has, just about adequate traffic to keep one awake and alert. In comparison I find our own express way to Ahmedadabad; quite dull , straight and boring piece of asphalt, so much so that I feel that nothing is going to happen even if I keep my car on cruise control and doze off on the steering wheel. Further ahead what annoys you is the no of toll booths which keep coming at you at regular intervals. There are not less than 10 till Udaipur. Not only they act as speed breakers, but collectively they can dig a big hole in your

wallet. At last toll I almost told the collector “tell me than why should I also pay income tax?!” It’s about 7 hours drive. There are no of tempting temples en route but if one wants to reach in time to enjoy the day at hotel one has to ignore and resist those temptations. On the other side, it could be one of the excuse and incentive to go to Rajasthan. “chal ne, jode jode shrinathji na darshan pan thai jashe”. One turns right from Kankroli (about 60 kms from Udaipur), on a state highway now. It has enough pot holes to make you feel that you are riding a horse and the car! And why not? after all you are visiting a fort, better be on a horse. Suddenly, you see the ramparts of the mystery filled Sardargarh, like a great ship anchored at outer sea, as you get closer you realize the true Sardargarh fort, Rajsamand.

proportions of the fort as gigantic wall soar high above the low lying small village. From the time you drive up the narrow steep entrance (tour buses cannot negotiate this narrow entrance – which is a bonus), and receive a traditional Rajasthani welcome fit for a bridegroom, you will be led to your room into a different world. The owners have spent considerable amount of time, effort and money in renovating the guest rooms and common areas (there are only 21 rooms/suites) to a very high standard with all the modern conveniences and exquisite décor. Each room has a large swing in the

entrance porch which is well lighted and ventilated with a ceiling fan. Our marble-floor air-conditioned suite consisted of a bedroom, a dressing room with wardrobe and enough shelves to place the luggage and a separate very modern bathroom. The rooms are kept in immaculate condition. Our room had widows that overlooked a well tended garden with lots of beautiful flowers. Interestingly all the rooms are given names of the queens from Sardarsingh’s extended family and decorated in their favourite colour themes. The owners employ about 40 staff from the small village of Lawa, located at the bottom of the fort. Again the owners in the very short period of time this resort has been open to guests (first year of operation was 2006) have done a commendable job in training the young staff he employs from the village in the art of guest service as they had never seen a fork, never mind which side of the setting to place it!! You will be well looked after at this hotel. You will find that the staff are continuously either watering or trimming the well kept gardens. The emblem of Sardargarh is rising sun and a sword, below which it is written “work is thy duty, reward is not thy concern”. It did appear to be inspired by lord Krishna. All staff seemed to follow it very religiously. After getting fresh, I met Mahipal singh; the seventh generation owner of the fort. Sardargarh is personally operated by Mr Mahipalsingh and his wife unlike the other heritage hotels which are usually run by managers on behalf of the hereditary owners. He is more than happy to narrate 250 year old history of this fort. “Sardar singh, one of the most powerful Dhodhias (Ancient

kshtriya race and warrior community with heroic history and enviable victories.) built Sardargarh during 1738 – 1743. As the story goes , at the inauguration of this fort Maharana Jagatsighji, than the ruler of Udaipur was so impressed that he appointed Sardarsigh to supervise construction of Jagat Nivas, now better known as lake palace and almost a symbol of Udaipur.” The contours of the palace fort which is spread over 3 lacs sq feet beautifully blend with those of the Aravali hills. North of the fort, lies Manohar Sagar, large lake which gets filled to brim in monsoon. Within the fort there are multiple court yards, bath area, garden, granary, underground passage system, public audience hall etc. “Ask any staff to give you a tour of the castle. You will go through some amazing narrow passages which go down 7 floors below ground level!!. We did exactly opposite and went to the roof and preferred unobstructed view of the lake braving gutsy winds.

Marble canopy: lunch

Food served was not very elaborate but was tasty and homely with one or two Mewari dishes added the local flavour. Lunch was served under the marble canopy at the centre of the big court yard with

beautifully manicured gardens all around. Dinner was even more exquisite served under the glittering stars on candle lit tables on the roof top terrace. In the distance while Rajsthani folk singers danced on their unique

songs and music, I wonder if Sardar singh himself had such luxury some 250 years back!! At 4 pm next day there were sudden noises “guest ayo, guest ayo” every body seemed running towards the Suraj pole (main gate) with pooja thali, garlands and welcome drink. I also joined in the welcome of 4 Innova full of foreign tourists. “special guests?!- I winked at Mahipalsingh. “special guests at special rates!!” he winked back. “No actually on a serious note my hotel is used as transit stop for these tourists by their Delhi agents as a stopover between Jaipur and udaipur. And that’s a good business for new place like us”, he informs me. Apart from exploring the fort there is not much activity here. We avoided Night wild life safari (10 % chance of spotting leopard and 80 % chance of spotting spotted deer). Picture perfect pool Going by my past experiences of safaris, I have started believing that all wild animals avoid me so I decided to do the same to them this time. Swimming pool is located in another court yard. It is very pretty with lotuses and fish ponds all around it, but water was too cold for my liking and I chose to sit on one of the lounge chairs and read my unfinished novel from the last trip.

Those who can not sit still at one place can actually visit Kumbalgarh; another fort about 65 km away. It is supposed to have the long long wall only second to great wall of china. Or for that matter Ranakpur with its famous Jain temples are also in close vicinity. Overall we had very satisfying 2 days break because where else you can cuddle up in the lap of history enjoying medieval ambience amidst all modern day luxury. I think I need to thank Rina, my travel agent. Catch me with your [email protected]

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