Growing Houseplants

GROWING HOUSEPLANTS (DVLO\DQG6XFFHVVIXOO\

By

Kent Killen

Copyright 2000

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This book is copyrighted by Kenton G. Killen. No Copying, duplicating, electronic storage and retrievable or any other system yet to be invented is allowed without express written permission from Kenton G. Killen or whomever the copyright may hereinafter be assigned. Copyright date 2000.

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Dedicated To: My two children Tina and Gene Dale and Loriann who made me “Family” The Jacksons for all those wonderful holiday meals Ray and Regina who were friends when I really needed friends Dr. Toth who kept me well enough to write.

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GROWING HOUSE PLANTS Easily & Successfully by KENT KILLEN PREFACE

Did you ever walk into a room or someone’s house and get the feeling that it was bare? Did a room ever feel impersonal or dead like a cheap motel room? It may have felt that way because there were no living plants in the room. Nothing makes a home feel more “lived in” than a beautiful, well maintained plant. It can be a plant with beautiful flowers or a lush foliage plant. Either says, “Hey, I live hear and I enjoy life!” Although the homes and apartments of today are sealed and barricaded more than the ancient caveman”s dwelling, some plants may be grown in almost any living environment. Another problem that many of you will need to overcome is lack of time and space to grow the plants. The time and space constraints can be solved by selecting plants which will fit into your schedule. The main requirements to succeeding in growing attractive plants are variety, water, temperature, soil, air, and pest control. Here is to your success!!!

VARIETIES Before you rush down to the store and buy many beautiful plants which will surely die, study the requirements for growing in this book and then consult the table in back to select plants which will fit your lifestyle. If you are subject to be sent on assignment for a week at a time, do not pick a plant that needs watering each day. To make the choice easier, and to see which will be most likely to grow, the most common plants will be divided into seven groups. Flowering plants Annual flowering plants Hardy flowering plants Bulb plants Foliage upright plants Foliage vining plants Succulents and Cacti

LIGHT Before we get to the different types of the plants, we will cover the growing requirements. We are starting with light because that is usually the biggest problem in modern houses and apartments. All true plants require light in order to live and grow. Most plants need to be protected from direct sunlight. If they grow outdoors, why do we need to protect them? Light coming through glass can act as if it is coming through a magnifying glass and burn the plant. Other plants normally grow in the shade. Houseplants have been bred to require less light. This does not mean “No Light”. Generally, plants will manufacture food and grow better if more light is available. However, we face another contradiction. “Shady plants” can be retarded in their growth if given too much light. Normally, flowering plants need more light. Geraniums, Begonias, Cyclamens, and Chrysanthemums do best with more light such as a south window which gets more hours of sun. (In the future, I shall type “Mums”. That is too many letters.) Plants grown for foliage will usually do better with less light. Palms, ferns, vines, etc. should not be placed in direct sunlight. Nature can break these rules. I have wild fern growing in

the full sun all the day. It is growing wild. I would never try to grow this as a house plant and put it in a bright window. West windows should be avoided unless you have some type blocking curtain or shade. Look out the window at 3:00 in the afternoon. You will see how strong the sun could be on fragile plants, even flowering ones. Except for certain foliage plants, North windows do not have enough light for growing. Just from checking the available windows, you can see where you are starting to limit the plants that can be grown successfully. You need to do this check with each of the requirements. For an additional investment, you can purchase lights that will make it possible to grow lush plants such as African Violets. These lights make it feasible to grow plants in a windowless basement. I have seen plants grown with lights only and then win awards at shows.

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MOISTURE

Most plants need a moist atmosphere to attain healthy development. This presents a problem in most dwellings, as the heating and cooling is designed to create a dry atmosphere. Humans need a dry atmosphere to prevent mildew and other fungus. A good compromise for most plants is to spray the leaves once a day. DO NOT Spray African Violets or any fuzzy leafed plants. You can have zone humidity by using a plastic or aluminum tray and filling with coarse pebbles to a depth of about two inches. Place the pots on top of this gravel. Any over watering will be caught by the tray and evaporate upward to the plants. If the plants are potted in a real clay pot (not the fake look-alikes) it will absorb some moisture from the rocks and pass it through to the soil. As you read the following, keep in mind that over watering will rot roots: An ample supply of water should be furnished the plant at the roots. Plants growing in the dry conditions of the home lose water through the leaves. They lose more water than the ones growing outdoors because of the low humidity. This must be replaced by the roots. The water in the soil serves two functions. The first is to supply water to the plant tissues. The second is to dissolve the nutrients from the soil so that the plant may take them into the root system and use them. Lack of water causes the plant to wilt. The internal water pressure is what holds the new growth upright. After wilting, the plant begins to starve from lack of food.

Too much water will cause the plant to suffocate. The plant must have oxygen to the roots. When a plant is continually over watered, the oxygen is driven from the soil and no air cavities are left to hold any oxygen. The oxygen contained in the water will be used up quickly. Decay of the roots and the death of the plant will follow. The ideal condition for the majority of plants is the soil condition shortly after watering. The excess water has drained away and pulled air into the soil as it drained. The soil will be damp and have plenty of oxygen. If that is the case, why not water twice a day? Hydroponics culture does just that. However in soil culture, over watering and lack of oxygen will result as the soil will hold more and more of the water. There is no one rule for watering plants. Water a plant when it needs it. Water well and let it dry before watering again seems to work most of the time, but not all. Frequent small waterings do not seem to work as well. More contradictions: Plants in small containers usually need watering more often. Flowers in clay pots will need watering more than flowers in plastic pots. The clay allows moisture to evaporate while plastic does not. More plants die from over watering when grown in plastic pots. Those plants in boxes will not need to be watered as often. The size of the plant in relation to the container will also determine how quickly the plant runs out of water. All of this brings us back to “Water when they need it.”

MORE WATERING ‘RULES’ Note the texture of the plant stems and leaves. The harder the foliage, the less water needed. I killed a nice rubber plant from over watering. I watered it each time I

watered some other plants. This does not work. Plants like African Violets must be watered more often, as they have softer leaves. Slower growing plants need less water than fast growing plants. Plants such as the hydrangeas need the extra water in order to grow rapidly. Slower growing plants such as primroses, will need less water. They can be damaged by over watering. Leaf area is another factor in water usage. A broad, soft leafed plant will use more water. The native habitat of the plant is another indicator of water needed. The desert area plants, such as the cacti and succulents require less water. This is especially true during winter. The humidity of the room will have a large effect on the frequency of watering. The lower the humidity, the faster the plant will dry out. In the resting stage, plants need very little moisture. This is true of the palms and other tropical plants which grow very slowly during their winter resting stage. Plants with broad, leathery leaves need a moist atmosphere, but must have a well drained soil. Ferns require lots of water, they are mostly water, but must have a well drained soil. Some plants will thrive under too much water - if they get oxygen in the water. The elephant ear and umbrella plant are two that fit this description. When the top of the soil is dry, water thoroughly. Water enough that the water goes through the soil and flows out the drainage holes in the bottom. The extra water will wet

the soil and dry out the trapped air which has been depleted of oxygen. The weight of the water acts as a suction and brings fresh air into the soil around roots of the plants. The shortcut of setting plants in water and letting the water be drawn to the surface through the pot is not advised. Automatic watering pots are available at the plant stores. They are not as good as the ‘soak and dry’ method for most plants. They work quite well for starting seeds and for plants such as African violets. They also work better than forgetting the plant and letting it die. They consist of a wick which hangs in a container of water. Make sure the wick is of glass or some of the plastic wicks. Cotton will rot. The wick draws the water from the container into the soil. Foliage plants have a tendency to grow too rapidly if given the optimum amount of water. To avoid this, keep the soil just wet enough for health leaves that are not wilted. In many cases, this means watering only once a week.

TEMPERATURE Most foliage plants grow well in the home as the temperature is about the same as that preferred in the natural setting. Tropical flowering plants also do well in warm rooms. This may be the reason that African Violets are so popular. Since temperatures in the home are at 70 degrees or above, many of the cool plants do not do well. Plants such as hydrangeas, cinerarias, cyclamens, and primroses will not do well. They prefer temperatures of 65-70 in the day and 55-60 at night. During the winter, you can make the plants last longer by moving them to a cooler room at night. The flowers on most plants will last longer if you place them in a cooler location at night. On cold nights, do not leave plants near windows.. If you must do so, put a curtain or layers of paper between the plants and the window. Heat will radiate from the leaves to the cold glass. African Violets are very sensitive to this effect. Plants will not do well if you place them near radiators, heaters or hot air vents. The extra heat causes drying of the leaves. Fumes from coal burning or manufactured gas will injure plants. Fumes from natural gas does not harm most plants.

SOIL If everything else is ideal and the soil is poor, plants will not grow. If the ph is close to what a plant needs, the plants can adapt to many different soils. The soils must contain the raw materials and water for the plants to

manufacture the food they need. They field of hydroponics does not use soil at all. The food is supplied with the water. For house plants, a good mixture is one-half garden loam, one-fourth sharp sand, and one fourth peat. The loam contains some humus and clay. The sand is to provide drainage and keep the soil from packing or caking and cracking. Peat supplies some food value and water holding. The easiest way to get good soil is to go to a reputable garden center. Buy soil that is labeled sterile (most will be). Add one-half teaspoon of a complete plant food to a six inch pot when potting a plant. A complete plant food is one which contains the three main growing elements. They are nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium in a 1:1:1 ratio. Many companies add trace elements. One vitamin tablet to a gallon of water will supply all the trace elements needed. Every brand of plant food will say they are the best. Forget brands and purchase by the total units of fertilizer. If the bag says 10:10:10 and cost $1.20, this is .40 per unit. Divide total units (30) into price (1.20). Buy the plant food with the lowest unit cost. To paraphrase: phosphorous is phosphorous is phosphorous. If you buy plants from a reputable dealer, the soil mixture they are in will supply food for awhile. When it is depleted, buy plant food and apply according to directions. Never apply fertilizer to a dry plant. Always make sure the soil is moist before feeding.

POTTING Potting will be needed for one of three reasons. Potting newly rooted cuttings or seedlings. Potting plants brought in from outdoors. This can get to be a big operation in the fall. Transferring plants from one pot to another. This is done if you are doing root divisions or if you have plants that are ‘root bound’. When potting seedlings, rooted cuttings, or slips (such as yams), use a rich soil to which fertilizer has not been added. Strong fertilizer will injure the fresh, tender roots. This is what a grower means when he says the fertilizer ‘burned’ the roots. Start with a two and one-half inch pot. Prepare the pot by placing a broken pot over the bottom hole. Place this with the curved side up to form a dome. This is for drainage. I can never find a broken pot when I need it. I use coarse stone. I put the larger pieces (preferably broken) stacked around and over the hole. Make sure one does not seal the hole. Then I use smaller pieces to make a smooth layer. Broken clay bricks work well also. Place a little sand over this. Then place a layer of the potting soil. Put the seedling in the center and gently put soil around the plant and the roots. Fill to within one-half inch of the top. Firm gently. Soak completely. Add soil if needed. Place in a shady spot until the roots become established. This usually takes one week. Then give them sunlight. Mist the leaves the first few days. Put plants gathered from the garden in a pot large enough for the root ball and soil lifted with the plant. The rest is the same as for seedlings.

When repotting from one to another, it is common practice to go one size larger. If you go too much larger, the plant will not do as well. Over potting usually results in leaf yellowing and the plants do not develop. This is because the pot holds too much water that is not used by the plant. The excess water drives out the air. Let the the hand stem of a n d handed do what upsidehand as on a p l a n t hand holding the plant.

plant dry out some. Place over the soil with the main the plant between the index middle finger. I am rightso I use the left hand. You is comfortable. Turn the pot down and use the other a guide. Tap the pot sharply bench or fence post. The should slide out into the

Re-pot when the plant becomes ‘root bound’. When the roots are coming out the drain hole or when they are an entwined mass after taking out of the pot, they are ‘root bound’. Prepare the pot as described earlier. If you have some, put crushed charcoal in the bottom. This keeps the soil ‘sweet’. Break off the top edge to round the dirt ball. Scrape off the very top layer of dirt on the old plant. Gently immerse the root ball in water for about a minute. This will make sure that the roots are truly wet when transplanted. Finish re-potting as described for seedlings.

Glazed or painted clay pots, ceramic pots or plastic pots are attractive, but special care must be given when watering. Since there is almost no evaporation, the drainage must be excellent. Stir the soil surface for better aeration. Old pots should be soaked in a bleach water to kill fungus and other plant diseases. Rinse thoroughly before using. Treat like a painted pot as older pots lose their porosity. Metal containers are pretty, but never pot directly in a metal container. If you must have a plant in that beautiful brass container from Aunt Mildred (The one with all the money and no heirs), pot the plant in a clay pot. Insert the clay pot in the brass container. Support the pot from the bottom with two or three inches of charcoal. Be very careful when watering. DOUBLE POTTING - Plants in a clay pot are put into a larger water tight container. The clay pot is supported by two inches of peat moss and surrounded by a layer of peat moss. Water is applied only to the peat moss. If the peat moss is kept wet but not soaked, the clay pot and the soil there-in will absorb the water from the peat moss. This idea is the forerunner of the wick system mentioned earlier.

PRUNING AND PINCHING When a plant, or even one branch of a plant, starts to become long and spindly, the cure is pruning or pinching back. To many people. ‘Pruning’ means cutting a woody outdoor plant with knives, shears, etc. while ‘pinching back’ refers to pinching off new growth with the fingers. The result is the same. The reason for either is to have a bushy, stocky, healthy plant. When transplanting plants in the fall, it is a good idea to cut back the top growth to a few joints from the bottom. If a plant does not get enough light, it tells you by becoming spindly and growing toward the light it is getting. Plants such as this need to be pinched back. If practical, change the lighting conditions. Most vines will benefit from ‘pinching back’ when young. This will result in more growth from the base and healthier plants. Grape ivy, Pothos, wandering jew and others will make better plants if kept trimmed.

SUMMER CARE Many gardeners put the house plants back into the garden during the summer. They will get added strength if this is done. Since outdoor gardening is not the subject of this book, we will not cover this issue. Just remember that the sun gets hotter as summer progresses and plant put in sunlit windows can be severely damaged. You may want to move them or shade them.

PROPAGATION

Plants may be propagated by seeds, leaf cuttings, stem cuttings(slips), root divisions, portions of leaves, eyes (potatoes), air layering, and runners. Seed planting is the method for the majority of plants grown. This is not always true of house plants. The seeds should not be too old. Light is usually detrimental to germination. One Christmas, a five year old was explaining this. She had seen a TV program. She had memorized all of the program. I wish more kids watched this kid of program and less of the other kinds. The seed should be planted to the depth called for on the seed package. If no package is handy, try twice the thickness of the seed. Very fine seed such as begonia or cockscomb should not be covered. Water them in with a fine spray. The soil should be damp - not wet. The best results I had was using the thin, disposable, ‘rose boxes’ from a florist supply. One hundred was very inexpensive at the time. After the seeds were planted and watered, the box was closed and the moisture was trapped in. I did not need to water again. The trays were

covered with black garbage bags to block light. By lifting the bags, I could easily see the progress of the seeds. It worked great. I used industrial mixing sand with a small amount of fertilizer in the water. When they sprouted, the plastic box became a miniature greenhouse. After sowing, mist the soil with a fine spray. If you can not get the rose boxes, cover with glass, plastic or even paper. You want to keep the moisture on the seeds and avoid watering again. Remove the covering after the seeds sprout. Most instructions say to transplant to other soil as soon as the first two true leaves appear. I prefer to wait until four or six appear. With the plastic box method, this works well. When you do transplant, space one to two inches apart. Use a soil with 60% sand and 40% potting soil. You will need to move them again and a heavier soil will damage the roots. You will have very good results if you use a plastic knife from a fast food place to lift the plants. Simply insert the knife under the small plant and lift. Place in new soil and gently slide off the knife by using a second knife. Pull the new soil around the plant and mist until very moist. Place in a shady place for about three days. After they grow several more leaves, transplant into individual pots. This section would not be complete if I did not mention Jiffy Pots. This is a neat commercial product which is great for a few seeds. The Jiffy Pot Number Seven comes 25 to the pack. Decide how many seeds you are planting. Figure about three to the pot. They may not all sprout. Soak the number of pots you will need. They expand forever. They form a cavity in the top. Put seeds in cavity with some sand (some people use soil). Place the pots in

a plastic or aluminum tray. I use styrofoam plates or the styro trays in which food is sold. Keep pots damp by putting water in tray - not on pots. After the seeds sprout, wait until roots come through the Jiffy Pot. Transplant. CUTTINGS In colonial times, a visit among neighbors often meant a gift of a begonia or patience plant cutting. They had their tea and the recipient would lovingly tend the stem or leaf until it flowered. Stem cuttings are usually rooted in sharp and that is kept moist. Many will root and become complete plants if inserted in a container of water. Geraniums, wax begonias, coleus, ivy and yams (sweet potatoes) are a few of the plants that will. A great project for school children is the sweet potato. Buy a small yam at the store. Put the pointed end down in a narrow container. Fille with water until only about three-fourths of the yam is not covered. Set in a warm, well shaded place. It will sprout in about a week. The plants grow rapidly. When they are about nine inches long they are what we called ‘slips’. If you continue watering, the vines can reach over six foot long. This is covered again in this book with a picture. Removing the yam and cutting into it to removes each plant will yield plants that will grow in soil An aside here - George Washington Carver is remembered for the many uses he discovered for the peanut. Not many people realize that he also found over 260 uses for the yam. He was a very smart man. STEM CUTTINGS: Many plants from begonia to Azalea will root and grow from stem cuttings. Begonias and softer plants will root if you simply cut the end of a stem and

place the cut in in wet sand. Keep out of direct sunlight. Wait about a week and check to see if roots have formed. Gently tug on the plant. If it resist, roots have formed. Wait another week and transplant. If it pulls out, stick it back in the soil and wait until the roots do form. Sections of plants such as dumbcane, ti, and dracaena will root if laid in damp sand. Cut sections several inches long. Make sure the have bumps or undeveloped leaf buds. Cover about 90% of the stem with damp sand. New plants and roots will form in several weeks. Each new plant can be severed from the stem and planted separately. Plants such as Azalea work best if a fork is cut. Leave a few leaves on the smaller limb. Dip the fresh cut bottom end in a rooting medium. The fork is then placed in potting soil mixed with sand. Put deep enough so that the joint of the two limbs is covered. Keep the medium damp until new leaves appear. LEAF CUTTINGS - African Violets can be rooted from the leaves. Each leaf must have at least one-half inch of leaf stem attached. Insert the leaf stem in damp sand. Roots will form in about four weeks. Small plantlets will start to form at the base of the leaf. This sometimes takes as long as two months. Cut each new plant from the ‘starting leaf’ and plant separately. Another method is to cover a glass filled with water with plastic wrap or wax paper. Hold the wrap or paper on with a rubber band. Punch a hole for each leaf. Insert the leaf stem through the hole into the water. Keep in bright light. After the roots and plantlets form, plant and cut off the ‘starter leaf’.

Try Snake-plant. Lay out a large leaf. Cut at two inch intervals. Mark the former top end of each piece. Insert the bottom end in damp sand. Each piece will form a new plant. A rex Begonia leaf will root if placed flat on damp sand and soil mixture. Use 60% sand 40% potting soil. Have the sand damp and keep out of direct sun. Use hairpins over some small veins to hold it down. Make a few cuts at the main vein. This is where it will root and new plants form. Each leaf rosette of echeveria will root if twisted from the main stem and placed in the rooting medium. The ice plant propagates very easily. Simply trim off the excess and chop into very small pieces. Scatter over the soil and cover with more soil. Keep damp and each piece will root. In order to avoid watering often, cover the rooting medium with a plastic cover or use plastic trays and covers or pick up an old aquarium at a garage sale. Cover the aquarium with a piece of window glass. Dampen soil. Do not soak. RUNNERSFlame violet, spider plant, strawberry geranium and others put out runners. Small plantlets form at the tip of these runners. These are easy to root. Pin them to the soil until they develop roots. Cut the runner and pot the new plant. ROOT DIVISIONS - This applies to plants that are usually called “bulb” plants.

TRUE BULBS - A true bulb is like a daffodil or onion. It has a short underground stem surrounded by fleshy leaves. This is the bulb. The fleshy leaves store the food and protect the unseen plant. BULBLETS - These are sometimes called offshoots. They are formed by the lateral bud on the basal plate. Formed from true bulbs only. BULBILS - These are small bulbs produced in axils of leaves (like lilies), flower clusters or on stems. CORMS AND CORMELS - Plants such as the Gladiolus are planted with corms and form new corms and many cormels at root level. These cormels should be gathered in the fall. Place in refrigerator for at least 30 days before replanting. It will usually be two years before they will bloom. RHIZOMES - These are creeping underground stems as in the Iris and Calla. Because of food storage, they are sometimes very thick. Foliage leaves and the flower stalks arise from buds on the top side. Roots project below. Cut sections so that each section has a growth bud. Pot for a new plant. TUBEROUS RHIZOME - This is a slender underground stem. It is basically a rhizome that is thickened at the end into a tuber like section for storing food. The term rootstock is often used for a tuberous rhizome. Cut the same as for rhizome for propagating. TUBER - The short enlarged stem is for food storage. It may be flattened (tuberous begonia), rounded (potato) or irregular (ranunculus). Tubers do not creep like a

rhizome. Tubers have growth buds called eyes. Divide into sections having at least one “eye”. Let pieces dry until a ‘scab’ forms then pot. TUBEROUS ROOTS - Yams are an example. These are real roots (not stems) with thickened food storage structures. They have no growth buds in the ‘tuber’. Growth buds are at one end as part of the old stem base. Can be divided as long as each piece has a growth bud. Other examples are Dahlias and the Gloriosa Lily. AIR LAYERING - This is a great way to multiply woody plants. Cut a downward slice through the bark and into the stem. Hold the cut open with a toothpick. Wrap with well dampened sphagnum moss. Wrap with a clear plastic. Tie the plastic tightly above and below the moss. When healthy roots have protruded through the moss, cut off stem below the moss. Remove plastic and most of the moss. Replant.

PESTS

“Damping-off” fungus attacks seedlings, but if proper care is taken, it will not be a problem in the home. The biggest factor is to have sterilized starting medium. Next - Do not over water. Due to the dry conditions in the average house, stem rot and leaf spots do not secure a foothold. Should any of the foregoing be a problem, talk to your local plant supplier. He will have the very latest fungicide to cure the problem. Insects cause more trouble with house plants. Insects fall into chewing and sucking insects.

CHEWING INSECTS bite out parts of plants. When this occurs, sprays or dusts are available to easily eradicate them. SUCKING INSECTS are a large and varied group. You have aphids, mites, red spiders, white fly, mealy bugs and scales as a sample. No one treatment will control all of them. Malathion will control most of them. See the local nursery and ask if something better is available and hopefully it is also environmentally friendly. The aphid is a small green or brown insect. Powered tobacco dust is sometimes used for control. Whatever you use, it must get on the aphid. Several application will ne necessary. Mite damage causes the curling of leaves and curling of buds. Red Spider feed on the underside of leaves. This produces a speckled appearance on the leaves. Both insects will eventually kill the plant. Whatever spray you buy, verify that it is safe for the home. One pest control ‘expert’ in this area sprayed cotton poison in a children’s nursery. The children are still being monitored and the building was ordered torn down. WHITE FLY is a serious pest. It flies on approach so it is difficult to spray. It attacks many plants but especially salvia, cineraria. Ageratum, fuchsia, and some geraniums. MEALY BUGS are soft, slow moving insects. They are found on ferns, crotons, coleus and many other plants. The bugs cluster around the joints of stems and leaves.

They have fuzzy covered bodies and most sprays do not work. They can be removed with a soft paint brush dipped in a nicotine solution. Your nursery may have some new sprays. SCALE insects look like very small brown spots. They attack fern, palms and crotons. Do not confuse SCALE with the brown spore cases on ferns. You can try scraping them off. Then go buy the best spray available. EARTHWORMS will not be a problem if you use sterile soil from the start. Their burrowing creates air pockets which dry the roots. Kill them, root lice and maggots with Chlordane dust.

FLOWERING PLANTS

Begonias are attractive plants. Some have beautiful foliage and almost no flowers. Others have beauty in both. Peat or humus soil seems to work best. The temperature can be cool with no direct sunlight required for most varieties. The heavier foliage varieties do better with reduced light. The normal propagation method is by stem or leaf cuttings. Wax Begonias use seed. Few insects or diseases bother these hardy plants. AFRICAN VIOLET is a native of tropical Africa. It thrives best at a temperature of 65 to 70 degrees. About the same as most American homes. It requires little light so it does well in most apartments. If not over watered, it will bloom for a long time. Proper watering is the key to success. The original home for the plants was under giant trees in a tropical damp area. Keep this in mind. Keep the soil moist - not soaked. Do not wet the leaves. Cool water will spot the leaves. Never wet the crown. Direct sunlight will injure the plant. An East or North window is best. West and South windows may be used with proper shading. Skip the saucer watering system. Skip glazed pots unless you are very careful not to over water. With African Violets, it is how much water as well as how you water that makes the difference. A good soil is mandatory for success. A good mixture is equal parts of organic matter (peat or leaf mold) and soil.

Add sand if the soil has much clay. Two parts sand to eight parts clay soil. Mix one teaspoon of a 10-10-10 fertilizer to one-half gallon of potting mix. Do not repot a mature plant more than once a year. African Violets propagate by leaf cuttings. See the section on cuttings. TIP: Large leaves with long stems can be used more than once to start plants. When the first plants take hold, cut the stem and start again. Some problems: Flower buds forming, but flowers dropping off - Probably carbon monoxide from a faulty heater or stove. Check especially if anyone has had headaches. Plant leaves wilting and dying - due to over watering. White cottony masses on the leaves - Mealy bug infestation. Remove with alcohol on a cotton swab or a small, soft brush. Leaves small and curled, flowers absent or distorted. Mite infestation. These things are almost microscopic. See a different nursery for a possible cure. I do not know of any. Do not purchase plants from that dealer again. Leaf stems too long. It may be the variety. Probably the plant does not get enough light. Failure to flower: Plants not getting enough light. Too many leaves in center of plant. Remove a few.

Over watering - This is usually the trouble. These plants are finicky about water. Temperature too high, above 75 or too low, below 60.

FLOWERING PLANTS

AMARYLLIS is a bulbous plant. It is very easy to grow. Start bulbs in Spring. The flowers will appear first. After the flowers have died, set the plants outside if possible. If it is possible to put the pots into the ground, leave them there until December. If the foliage is cut too soon, the plant may not store enough food to make flowers the following year. POCKETBOOK FLOWER - A very pretty flower, but it is much too much trouble for easy success. Skip the difficult ones, if you wish to have fun with the plants. CALLA LILY (Zantedeschia) - After flowering, starting in summer, with hold all water. Let the bulbs dry completely. Start into growth in the Fall. CINERARIA - is a house plant favorite, but a pain. The plants need much light, but will wilt under direct sunlight. The soil must remain moist but not wet. Rooms must be cool, below 60, for proper flowering. Skip this one. CHRYSANTHEMUM - There are many nice varieties. The very large blossomed plants with longer stems are valued for All Saints Day. I worked at a wholesale florist that sold over 180,000 blooms on All Saints Day. This plant can be made to bloom at any time by controlling the amount of light it gets. Some varieties may be grown outdoors as perennials in milder climates. CYCLAMEN - Let the nurseries grow this one. If you want it for a house plant, buy it. It requires a cold room. It needs 50 at night and 60-65 in the day. This kind of air conditioning in the summer will cost a fortune. The foliage will yellow and the flowers will be very small if the

temperature is too high. Most insects like the plant. Too much trouble. FUCHSIA is an old favorite but does not work everywhere. It requires a cool (65) room, full sunshine and moderate water. A winter resting period benefits the plant. Let the soil dry gradually. Place the plant in a cool dark room, shed or basement for two or three months. Repot and restart growth. Multiply by cuttings. GERANIUM is a favorite plant. It requires a sunny location. Without the light, it will flower very little and become spindly. Start cuttings in early spring. Grow outdoors, in the garden, or a well lighted window. Repot in a small pot in the fall. This restricts root action and produces stocky plants with many flowers. GERANIUMS need regular applications of plant food. They need plenty of water, but do not keep the soil soggy. Leaf spots will develop if the soil stays too wet. This is usually not a problem in the dry atmosphere of the home. Insects will attack the plant, but this is not a serious problem. HYDRANGEA - Buy it. Enjoy it. When the flowers quit, give it to a gardener. It is very pretty and if you give it lots of air, light and moisture it will grow for a good while. In order to carry the plant over to another year, they must have at least 30 days below 60 degrees and six to eight weeks of dark storage without leaves. Don’t grow it. Buy it. KALANCHOE (Tom Thumb) is a succulent. It grows well in the home. It is a compact plant with a profusion of

orange-red flowers. It will thrive in a warm, dry atmosphere. Normal blooming time is January. POINSETTIA is a native of Hawaii. The bright red is not the flower. It is a bract that will turn red when the light is restricted. It grows as a shrub in its’ native habitat. Buy it and enjoy it at Christmas. It is very difficult to grow in the home because of the sensitivity to light. I have grown it outdoors, but the bracts failed to turn red. It is best to buy, enjoy and discard.

UPRIGHT FOLIAGE PLANTS BOSTON FERN is a very popular house plant. Many varieties are available. Ferns need a normally warm room. They prefer the same temperature as humans (about 65-70). Grow in the right size pot and avoid over watering. Keep them from direct sunlight and do not place near heaters or hot air vents. Follow those hints and they are easy to grow. Feed regularly with a good plant food and repot once a year. When you repot, use a soil with about half leaf mold or peat. Propagate by potting of the runners. Scale insects will attack ferns. Trim off and destroy the older fronds. These are the ones which will have the most insects such as scale and mealy bugs. Washing with tobacco tea and sop will control the pest. Check with a nursery center to see if new, safe sprays are available. TABLE FERNS such as Aspidium, Hollyfern, Pteris and others make good house plants. Do not try growing in brass, plastic, painted or glazed pots. Grow in real clay pots only. Over watering and insufficient light are the two biggest problems.

COLEUS is a nice house plant that is not as demanding as some. It does well in full sunlight or some shade. It needs a warm moist atmosphere. Watch for mealy bugs and fungus. Keep the plant pinched back to produce bushiness. New plants are produced by cuttings, so use the material you pinch from the plant. DRACAENA is similar to Pandanus in appearance and requirements. They can be reproduced by sections of the main stem. PANDANUS is a very hardy house plant. Watch for over watering (especially during winter).The sword-like green or variegated foliage makes it attractive for a point of interest. Avoid pots that are too large. This leads to over watering. Offsets which form at the base may be removed and repotted for new plants. PALMS - There are a myriad number of palms. The kinds for house plants are few. Kentia and Date are the two best for homes. Both are easily cared for. Do not put in direct sunlight or over pot. Repot no more than once a year. Every two years is a better time frame. Warm moist atmosphere is preferred by both kinds. Feed with a commercial plant food every four weeks. Watch for scale. RUBBER PLANT - This plant will do well under a wide range of growing conditions. Do not over water. It can withstand warmer temperatures, but prefers about 70 degrees. It should have a slightly humid atmosphere but can grow under very dry conditions. The plant does better when partly root bound. Do not transplant too often. It is propagated by cuttings or air layering. The usual pest are scale and mealy bugs. These can be eradicated by washing with a tobacco-

soap solution. If the leaves start turning yellow, you have over watered. SANSEVIERIA (Snake Plant) is an easy plant to grow. It is almost care-free. The leathery leaves stop most insect attacks. It requires low light and very moderate water. The plants are easily propagated by leaf cutting or suckers which may be potted (See Propagation Section).

FOLIAGE PLANTS - VINES YAMS - MY FAVORITE - I do not know of anything easier to grow. Get a yam (sweet potato) and put the pointed in down in a narrow container of water. Keep at room temperature and it will sprout vines. Move to an area of normal light. It will tolerate low light, but the vines will not be as bushy. Note the mass of roots in the photo. After the vines are about three feet, add a few drops of dilute plant food to the water once a week. After the vines are one foot long, let the water level drop until some roots are out of water before replenishing water. The water container may be placed inside a more decorative container. It should last about a year. ENGLISH IVY does well in the home. This is the reason it is popular. It requires moderate light and water. The plant is capable of extremely rapid growth under ideal conditions. Scale and aphids are the main insect problem. The variegated varieties are not as adaptable. GERMAN IVY (Senecio) is favored for its’ pale green foliage. It does well in low light, cool area and moderate water. It is not as tough as English Ivy but produces a more luxuriant growth. GRAPE IVY (Cissus Rhombifolia) - Grape Ivy grows upright until long enough to start trailing. The new growth is light green in contrast to the dark green of the older stems and vines. To have a bushy plant,

pinch back often. It requires moderate light and moisture. Mealy bugs are the main insect problem. They are easily killed. It propagates from cuttings or slips. POTHOS AUREUS (Devils Ivy) and its varieties are favorites for the home. When used in small containers, they provide just the right green touch to a room. These plants thrive in the normal heat of a home and are long lasting. Grow in a light soil. They do best in a shaded part of a room. The heart-shaped philodendron, Cordatum, is popular for the same reasons. Large leafed philodendrons are used in large rooms, usually running up a sphagnum moss pole. Have proper drainage and do not over water. WANDERING JEW (the purple varieties) is one I really like. They will grow anywhere. I have had luxurious beds of one variety that took the full brunt of the afternoon sun. Others, I have grown in very poor light in hanging baskets. I like it as it tolerates my forgetting to water it. Propagation is by rooting of stems in moist soil or water. It will even grow in water.

CACTI AND SUCCULENTS

This subject deserves a book by itself. There is a quote in one of the out of print books that says,”all cacti are succulents, but succulents are not all cacti.” I am sure this is a very old saying. Succulents are “juicy” plants having very fleshy stems or leaves. These are used for storing water which enables the

plant to withstand long, hot, and dry periods. Normally succulents grown in the home will need more water than cacti. Let the soil become dry before watering again. A well drained, porous soil is a must. Cacti are more dry and thorny with spikes or hairs. From the Giant Saguaro which weighs tons and may be 50 feet high to the Button Cactus that is so small it is very hard to find, there are thousands of cacti. Some are narcotic. Some have ferocious spines and others are leathery. Some have beautiful flowers while others rarely bloom. Years ago, in the forties, an old mountain man showed my mother how to make jelly out of cactus flowers. He made booze. Succulents are great for the home planting. Some types are found in every state except northern New England. Grow a small dish of Aloe if you grow none other. This is still the very best thing for a burn. The juice from a fresh crushed leaf will stop a burn from blistering. Every kitchen should have one plant in the window. Agave (Century Plant), Aloe, Crassula, Echeveria, Euphorbia, Kalanchoe, and Sedum are the more common succulents. There are so many easy to grow cacti, I shall not list the best ones. Go to a good nursery and pick out one you like. Almost all cacti will grow well in a porous, sandy soil. Water sparingly.

BULB AND BULB-LIKE PLANTS

Bulbs, Bulblets, Corms, Rhizomes and Tubers Growing bulbous plants in the home is very easy if you start with good bulbs, and sterile soil. and follow the recommendations for the one chosen. The bulbs and tubers are clean and pleasant to handle. After potting, the containers may be stored out of sight until the bulbs have produced roots. You may want to wait until the flower stalk is growing. After flowering, they may be removed and fresh bulbs brought in. If you select with care, you can have flowering plants throughout the year. Some bulbs can be grown permanently in containers. They will flower year after year with little care. An occasional repotting or adding fresh soil to the top is all that is needed. This group is represented by achimenes, amaryllis, agapanthus, caladium, calla, some cannas, clivia, crinum, and haemanthus. Crocus, daffodils, Dutch Iris, freesias, hyacinths, scillas, and tulips are usually grown for one season and then discarded or transferred to the garden. (If you discard, please do so properly. Louisiana spends a fortune each year to keep waterways clear. These waterways are choked by water hyacinths and other plants that were thrown out. Soil, bulb fiber, vermiculite, pebbles and water or plain water are the growing mediums for bulbs. Hyacinths and the sweet potato - a tuber are two examples of growing in plain water.

PEBBLES AND WATER SYSTEM - Cut clear plastic tubing or soda straw if no tubing is available to the depth of the dish. Tape to the side. This will be part of your water gauge. Break up charcoal into small pieces and cover the bottom of a container to about one inch. Put washed, small, smooth stones over this for a depth of another two inches. Crushed granite can cut the bulbs. Place the bulbs on these stones. Finish filling the container with small stones. Pour water until it is one-eight inch above the base of the bulb. Here is where you use the gauge. If using a soda straw, You will need to carefully insert a wire or broom straw into the soda straw and remove it to see the depth of the water. If you use a larger plastic tube, you can cut and mark a strip of styrofoam. As water is poured, it will float. Quit pouring when the mark appears. Paper White Narcissus and Chinese Sacred Lilly both grow well with this system. BULB FIBER OR VERMICULITE - Bulb fiber is a commercial product containing charcoal, coarse, fibrous peat moss and crushed shell. Before using, soak thoroughly. Squeeze ou the excess water. Fill the bowl within one inch of top. Press down, but do not compact or the bulb roots will not be able to push through. Form a depression and place bulbs so that they support each other. Do the same for vermiculite.

Roman hyacinths and early trumpet daffodils are good bulbs for these mediums. GROWING IN WATER - Yams have already been covered. Treat other tubers like yams the same. Hyacinths are sometimes grown in special forcing glasses. I think it is more trouble than it is worth. You can place the hyacinth bulbs on a layer of coarse gravel. Put water until it touches the base of bulb. Put container in a cool dark place and check the water level often. Rooting may take as long as 10 weeks. Usually the bulbs will root in six weeks. When a mass of roots have formed and the tips are pushing upward, place in a cool, lighted room. Do not place them in direct sunlight as the hot sun can burn the exposed roots. Keep the water level even with the base of the bulb. GROWING IN SOIL - Most container bulbs are grown in a soil mixture of loam, sand, and organic matter (peat, leaf mold, or bark) in equal mixtures. This gives the loose mixture that bulbs need. Use clean pots. Older, uncleaned pots may harbor fungus, parasites and bacteria. Boil the clay pots or soak in bleach water overnight and rinse. Do not reuse older plastic pots. Set up the drainage with broken pots or broken charcoal as describe earlier for other plants. Place bulbs so that they are almost touching. Put tips of larger bulbs even with the top of the soil. (Or where the soil will be.) Plant the smaller bulbs slightly below

the surface. You will probably notice that other books say plant to a depth of three times the diameter of the bulb. This is correct for garden planting. We are talking about container planting. Leave about an inch below the rim of the container for watering. Soak thoroughly and place in a dark cool place to wait for rooting. After about eight weeks, start lifting the pots and look for root growth through the drain hole. The top growth may be showing as a white or pale yellow from lack of light. Remove those that are rooted to a well lit room. The shoots will soon turn green. Keep the plants evenly moist during the blooming and growing period. Do not place in sunlight until the plants have adjusted to the room light. Try some of the miniature varieties of bulbs. You will like them. If you find a miniature gladiola that is a deep rich purple, please send me a bulb. I had many of them. When I moved, I forgot to dig them up and the new owner hired someone to mow. They kept them mowed down until they died.

THIRTEEN RULES 1.

To be successful, pick a plant that is easy to grow, that fits the atmosphere in your home and that fits your lifestyle.

2.

Let soil dry, then water thoroughly.

3.

Use a good potting soil of the mix specified for the particular plant.

4.

Use containers with drains or be very, very careful not to over water.

5.

Use charcoal for plants grown in water to keep water clear. It is a good soil conditioner also.

6.

Fertilize sparing -Too much is harmful.

7.

Humidify most plants. Dry air is usually harmful.

8.

Shade plants as needed. Most will not tolerate full sun.

9.

At the first sign of disease, insects, scale, etc. see your garden center for the correct insecticide.

10. When using insecticide, directions EXACTLY.

Follow

11. For bushy plants, trim or pinch back. 12. Do not use a pot that is too large. 13. Deal with a good garden center. or nursery. Find one with knowledgeable employees who sells quality plants. Quality is less expensive in the long run.

If small children will be around, check for plant danger. Some are poisonous and some (like Dumb Cane) contain Calcium Oxalate crystals that can harm the mouth. In rare instances death has resulted. Look at the following table. It should help you decide which plant you wish to grow. It will give the watering and lighting requirements for many of the plants.

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African Marigold

Orange or Yellow Flowers

Frequent

Sun

African Violet

Purple, Blue, White, Pink

Frequent

Shade

Ageratum

Blue fl.

Frequent

Sun

Air Pine

White fl.

Infrequent

Partial Shade

Aloe (Aloe aborescens)

Green

Seldom

Sun

Aloe Noblis

Green

Seldom

Sun (or shade)

Aluminum Plant

Silver marked

often

shade

Amaryllis

Many colors fl.

Often

sun

Amoena Diffenbachia

Green, white bands

Often

Partial shade

Aphelandra

Yellow fl.

Often

partial shade

Aralia

Green

often

shade

Artillery Plant

Green

often

partial shade

Aspidium

Green

seldom

partial shade

Auritum

Green

often

shade

Azalea (acid soil)

Many color fl.

often

sun

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Baby Tears

Green

seldom

shade

Begonia

many

often

sun to partial shade

Betel Nut Palm

Green

often

shade

Birds Nest Fern

Green

often

shade

Birds Nest Sansevieria

Green w/bands

seldom

shade

Blushing Philodendron

Reddish Green

often

shade

Boston Fern

Green

often

shade

Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens)

Green or Variegated

often

sun

Boxwood

White fl.

often

partial shade

Browalia

Blue fl.

often

sun

Cacti

Flowers vary and plants vary

seldom

sun

Caladium

Variegated

often

partial shade

Calla Lilly

White, Yellow fl.

often

sun

Camellia

Many color fl.

often

sun

Canna

Many color fl.

often

sun

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Carnation

Many color fl.

often

sun

Cast Iron Plant

Green or Variegated

seldom

shade

Century Plant

Chartreuse

seldom

sun

Cheese Cake Plant

Green

often

shade

Chinese Evergreen

Green

often

shade

Christmas Cactus

Pink or Red fl.

often

sun

Chrysanthemu m

Yellow, White, Orange, Red fl.

often

sun

Cigar Plant

Orange fl.

often

sun

Cineraria

Many Color fl.

often

sun

Climbing Fig

Green

often

sun

Coleus

Many Colors

often

sun

Crocus

White, Yellow, Blue fl.

often

sun

Croton

Variegated

often (except winter)

sun

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Crown of Thorns

Pink fl.

seldom

sun

Cupid’s Bower

Blue, Pink, White fl.

often

shade

Cyclamen

Pink, Red, White fl.

often

sun

Daffodil

Yellow fl.

often

sun

Date Palm

Green

seldom

partial shade

Devil’s Ivy

Green and Yellow

often

shade

Devil’s Tongue

Red fl.

often

partial shade

Dish Fern

Green

seldom

shade

Dracaena

Red, Green

often

shade

Dubia

Green

often

shade

Dumb Cane

Green and White

often

shade

Easter Lilly

White

often

sun

English Ivy

Green

often

tolerates most conditions

Exacum

Blue fl.

often

sun

Ferns

See variety

Fiddle Leaf

Green

often

shade

Flame Violet

Scarlet fl.

often

partial shade

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Flowering Maple

Orange fl.

often

sun

Flowering Shamrock

Pink, yellow, white f.

often

sun

French Marigold

Orange, Yellow fl.

often

sun

Fuchsia

Purple, red fl.

often

sun

Gardenia

White fl.

often

sun

Geranium

Pink, Red, White fl.

often

sun

Geranium Ivy

Green

often

shade

German Ivy

Green

often

indifferent

Glacier Ivy

Green, White

often

shade

Gloxinia

Purple, Red, White fl.

often

shade

Goldband Lilly

White, Yellow fl.

often

sun

Gold Dust Ivy

Yellow, Green

often

shade

Gold Stripe Sansevieria

Green with White edge

seldom

partial shade

Grape Hyacinth

Blue fl.

often

sun

Grape Ivy

Green

often

partial shade

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Green Peperomia

Green

often

shade

Hahn’s Devil’s Tongue

Green and White

often

shade

Hastatum

Green

often

shade

Hedgehog Aloe

Green

seldom

sun

Heliotrope

Purple fl.

often

sun

Henry’s Lilly

Yellow fl.

often

sun

Hens and Chickens

Green

Seldom

sun

Holly Fern

Green

often

shade

Hyacinth

White, Blue, Pink fl.

often

sun

Hydrangea

Blue, White, Pink fl.

often

sun

Jade Plant

Green

seldom

sun

Japanese Laurel

Green

seldom

sun

Japanese Lilly

Pink, White, fl.

often

sun

Jerusalem Cherry

Red Berry

often

sun

Joshua Tree

Green

seldom

sun

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Kafir Lilly

Orange-red fl.

often

sun

Tom Thumb

Red fl.

often

sun

Kentia Palm

Green

often except winter

shade

Lace Fern

Green

often

shade

Lantana

Orange fl.

often

sun

Madonna Lilly

White fl.

often

sun

Maple Leaf Plant

Green

often

partial shade

Marble Queen

White, Green

often

shade

Martha Washington Geranium

Pink, White, Red

often

sun

Massange Dracaena

Green and White

often

shade

Miniature Tree Palm

Green

often

shade

Monkey Puzzle Tree

ReddishGreen

often

partial shade

Nephthytis

Green

often

shade

Norfolk Island Pine

Green

often

partial shade

Panduriforme

Green

often

shade

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Periwinkle

Pink and White fl.

often

sun

Petunia

Many colors of fl.

often

sun

Philodendron

Green

often

shade

Piggyback Plant

Green

often

sun

Pigmy Date

Green

often

partial shade

Pin Oak Ivy

Green

often

shade

Pocketbook Plant

Yellow, Red, Pink fl.

often

sun

Podocarpus

Green

often

shade

Poinsettia

Red, White, Pink fl. (bracts)

often

sun

Poor Man’s Orchid

Many Color fl.

often

Partial shade

Prayer Plant Maranta bicolor

Yellow and White fl.

seldom

shade

Prayer Plant (maranta leuconeura)

Green and Brown

seldom

shade

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Primrose (primula malacoides)

Pink and White fl.

often

sun

Primrose, Hardy (primula polyantha)

many color fl.

often

sun

Rat Tail Crassula

Green

seldom

sun

Red or Velvet Philodendron

Red

often

shade

Red Rubber Plant

Red, Green

often (carefully)

shade

Regal Lilly

White fl.

often

sun

Rex Begonia

Variegated, bright

often

shade

Ripple Ivy

Green

often

shade

Rose

Many colors fl.

often (needs much water and porous soil

sun

Rubber Plant

Green

when needed little in winter

shade

St. Bernard’s Lilly

White fl.

often

partial shade

Sander’s Dracaena

Green and White stripe

often

shade

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Scheffiera

Green

often

shade

Screwpine (Pandanus veitchi)

Green and White

often except winter

shade

Self Branching Ivy (Hedera Hahnii)

Green

often

shade

Selloum

Green

often

shade

Shrimp Plant

Pink fl.

often

sun

Small Leaf Euonymus

Green

often

shade

Snake Plant

Green Speckled White

seldom

partial shade

Snapdragon

Many colors fl.

often

sun

Spear Flower

Green

often

partial shade

Spindle Tree

Green and White

often

sun

Split Leaf

Green

often

shade

Spotted Evergreen

White and Green

often

shade

Spotted Leaf Dracaena

Green with Yellow Spots

seldom

shade

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Strawberry Geraniums

Green and White fl.

often

partial shade

Tailflower

Red, White, Pink fl.

often

partial shade

Ti Plant

Green, Red

often

partial shade

Tiger Aloe

variegated

seldom

sun

Tiger Lilly

Orange fl.

often

sun

Trailing Selaginella

Green

seldom

partial shade

Tri Leaf

Green

often

shade

Tri Leaf Wonder

Green, white

often

partial shade

Tuberous Begonia

Brilliant fl., Many colors

often

partial shade

Tulips

Many color fl.

often

sun

Umbrella Plant (Cyperus)

Green

when needed

sun

Variegated Evergreen

Light Green streaks

often

shade

Variegated Ivy

Green and White

often

shade

SucculentsSee individual kind

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Variegated Nephthytis

Green and White

often

shade

Variegated Peperomia

Green and White

often

shade

Variegated Philodendron

Green and Yellow

often

shade

Variegated Rubber Plant

Green and White

when needed (less in winter)

shade

Verbena

Many colors fl.

often

sun

Vinca Vine

Green and White

often

sun

Wandering Jew

Green and Red, one variety Purple

often

shade to direct sun

Wart Plant

Variegated

seldom

sun

Watermelon Begonia

Green and White

often

shade

Wax Plant

White fl.

seldom

partial shade

Wax Begonia

White, Pink, Red fl.

often

sun

Wendlandi

Green

often

shade

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White Leaf Fittonia

Green, White veins

seldom

shade

Xembi

Green

often

shade

Zinnia

Many Color fl.

often

sun