French Grape Varieties

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

CHAPTER 1

History of grapes

Grapes are one of the earliest cultivated fruits, and probably around the Black Sea Region. It is estimated that grapes were cultivated in Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq) as far back as 6,000 B.C. their cultivation spread to Phoenicia and Egypt and by 2,000 B.C .all over the Mediterranean region.

Grapes were cultivated 6,0000 years ago in Europe. there are over 60 varieties of grapes that are cultivated for wine making and over 50 varieties are in current production as table grapes. Over 200 years ago, Franciscan monks brought grapes to California for the purpose of making sacramental wine. As the population grew, more grape varieties were introduction.40 years later, the vineyard for tables grapes was planted

The whole point of growing grapes in those early days was making wine. the Greeks had Dionysus, who later was renamed Bacchus by the Romans, a god dedicated full time to matters of grapes and wine.

Cultivation of the vine began several thousand years before Christ and is mentioned many times in the Old Testament. The ancient Egyptians made wine; the early Greeks exported it on a considerable scale. During the Roman Empire vine cultivation was extended to such a degree that a surplus ensued, and in AD 92 the emperor Domitian decreed that half the vines outside Italy be

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ uprooted. When replanting was later permitted, vineyards extended into northern France and Germany and even into southern England. The middle Ages, AD c.400-1200, saw little progress in viticulture. From about 1200, monasteries kept alive the art of wine making. Later the nobility also owned extensive vineyards. The French Revolution and the secularization of the German vineyards by Napoleon, however, removed many vineyards from ecclesiastical hands. From the beginning of the 13th century, the wines of Bordeaux (an area under the English crown from 1152 to 1435) were commonly shipped to England, the Hanseatic ports, and the Low Countries. By the 14th century wines from Spain and Portugal were also widely exported. Drinking habits were largely governed by changing fashions at court, political relations with producing countries, and changing rates of excise duty. During the 18th century heavy duties on French wines and an English alliance with Portugal led to a sharp rise in English consumption of Portuguese wines. For convenience in commerce, the Bordeaux merchants classified their finest red wines as early as 1725, but it was not until 1855 that such a classification, based on the market price for each wine, received official recognition. The wines of the Médoc district were divided into five classes, or crus. The 1855 classification stands today with only one recent significant change. During the middle and second half of the 19th century the European vineyards suffered from a series of disastrous diseases and pests, particularly mildew, or Oidium, and the plant louse, Phylloxera. First discovered in 1863, Phylloxera spread across Europe, destroying the vines by attacking their roots. Not until about 1880 was the grafting of European vine species onto immune American rootstock accepted as the only viable solution. Selective replanting also led to improved grapes. Simultaneously, a movement began to ensure the authenticity of wine, culminating (1936) in France when the appellation controlée (quality control) law, now the model for similar legislation in other countries, came into effect. The law allows only wine made from grapes grown in the Champagne region, for example, to be called champagne.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

CHAPTER 2

The vine The vine belongs to the Ampelidaceae family, as does the Virginia creeper and other

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ climbing berry-bearing growths (but not common ivy). It is only the genus Vitis(vine) that interests the wine-maker. There are five families of wine-producing vines: Vitis vinifera, Vitis riparia, Vitis ruspestris, Vitis labrusca and Vitis berlandieri. Of those, Vitis vinifera (wine-bearing vine) produces all the noble grapes associated with European vineyards but are now used throughout the world, with just a few exceptions. These are in the east coast of America and Canada where other species are cultivated because they are more suited to the terrain and climatic conditions.

Composition of the vine The vine consists of: Roots

These are for anchorage and for absorbing nutrients and moisture from the

earth. The root system is large and can reach to a depth of about 12 m (13 yds) Leaves Chlorophyll is the green matter in the leaves and is necessary for photosynthesis. When sunlight falls on them, carbon dioxide is absorbed from the atmosphere through the leaves into the plant where it combines with water, absorbed through the roots, to make sugar. The sap which is circulating in the vine takes the sugar and stores it within the grape. Leaves also shade the grapes in very hot climate. Flowers Vine flowers are very small, They self-pollinate from May to June in the northern hemisphere and from November to December in the southern hemisphere. Flowering lasts about ten days when, hopefully, the weather remains warm and dry. Frost is the great enemy- if it arrives during the flowering, unprotected vines will not bear grapes. Frosts can be combated by smoke and heat devices and by spraying the vines with water. Grapes The grapes from after pollination. At first they are small, hard and green, but as they ripen, they swell out and change color in August and September. They should be fully ripe 100 days after flowering. A ton of grapes produces 675 liters (148 gallons), equivalent to 960 bottles of wine.

Composition of the grape 4

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Stalk When the stalk is used it imparts tannic acid to wine. It is mostly used in the making of big, flavorsome red wine and is not used when making white and light wines. Tannin is a necessary ingredient as it acts as a preservative and antioxidant. If over-used, it makes the wine astringent as nasty. It is recognized on the palate by its tongue-furring properties. Skin The outer skin or cuticle has a whitish downy or cloudy coat known as bloom. This waxy substance contains wild yeasts and wine yeasts, millions of minute enzymes which contribute to the fermentation process. It also contains other micro organisms such as bacteria, principally the acetobacter which is a potential danger to wine. If uncontrolled, it can turn wine into vinegar. The inside of the skin imparts color which is extracted during fermentation. PIPS Crushed pips impart tannic acid, oils and water. If left uncrushed, they do not contribute to vinification. PULP The flesh of the grape provides the juice, also known as must, which is essential for fermentation. The must contains 1. 78%-80% water; 2. 10%-25% sugar; 3. 5%-6% acids.

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As we can see, water makes up the bulk. Sugar is formed in the grape by sunlight and is of two kinds: grape sugar(dextrose and glucose) and fruit juice (laevulose and fructose). They are found in about equal quantities. Tartaric, malic, tannic and citric acids in the must help to preserve wine and to keep it fresh, brilliant and give balance. Esters are formed when the acids come in contact with alcohol and it is these that give wine its aroma or bouquet. The must (unfermented grape juice) will also have trace elements of nitrogenous compounds such as albumen, peptones, amides, ammonium salts and nitrates, as well as potassium, phosphoric acid and calcium, all of which have influence on the eventual taste of the wine.

Annual cycle of work in the vineyards in the northern hemisphere January The year starts with pruning the vines and general maintenance to walls, posts and wire used for vine training. February Pruning, to regulate quality, continues and cuttings are taken for grafting. Machinery is cleaned, oiled and put in good working order. March Pruning is completed and ploughing begins to aerate the soil. This allows roots to breathe and facilitates free drainage of water to the roots. Bench grafting takes place. That means American root stock and Vitis vinifera scions are joined together in a nursery rather than a vineyard. April Ploughing is completed, weeding continues and year-old cuttings are planted out. May Vines are treated with copper sulphate against mildew Vine suckers are removed June The vines flower and treatment spraying continues July Weeding and spraying continues. Overlong green shoots are pinched back.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ August weeding as before and trimming of the vines to allow maximum sunshine to the grape bunches. Wine-making apparatus is prepared. Grapes swell and begin to change color. September Grapes continue to swell and color deepens. White grapes change to yellowgreen. Black grapes change from yellow-green to violet or deep purple. Sunshine is badly needed now to finish the ripening. Refract meters are taken into the vineyards to gauge the sugar level within the grapes. That, and the acidity level, will decide when the harvest can begin. Traditionally the grape should be perfectly ripe and ready 100 days after flowering. Bands of pickers will be contracted and the vintage usually starts about the third week in September, depending on location. October The cellar master finishes making the wine. Fermentation can take from six days weeks depending on the style of wine. Vineyard are deep ploughed and fertilized with chemicals to compensate for any deficiencies. November More fertilizing. Long shoots are cut off and the base of the vines are chilled up with soil for protection against snow and frost. December Wine equipment is cleaned and stored away. Deep ploughing of soil continues. Minor pruning commences and the cycles of work begin again.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

FACTORS AFFECTING QUALITY Soil Vineyards usually thrive where other crops struggle. Poor soils rich in minerals are best for the vine as they provide nutrients such as phosphate, iron, potassium, magnesium and calcium all of which contribute to the final taste of the wine. Flavoured soils are chalk, limestone, slate, sand, schist, gravel, pebbles, clay, alluvial and volcanic. These soils have good drainage and moisture retention to keep the vine roots healthy. Drainage is especially important, as the vine does not like having wet feet. Soil is analyzed annually and any chemical deficiency is compensated for. Climate The vine needs a good balance of moisture and heat. Temperature should average 14-160 C (57-60 0 f). The lowest annual average temperature necessary for the vine to flourish is 10 0 C(50 0f). It is estimated that the vine needs about 68 cm (27 in) of rain per year mainly in winter and spring and at least 1,400 hours of sunshine. The main climatic types are as follows Arid

Desert landscape, no rain for all or most of the year. Very hot summers , mild

winters. Semi-arid No rain for more than half the year; rivers dry in the summer. Very hot summers, cold winters. Continental

Hot summers, cold winters , rain for more than six months of the year.

Temperate Rain all the year round, hot summers, cold winters, wet springs and autumns. Maritime Rain all the year round, high humidity. Cooling breezes. Micro-climate

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ A micro-climate is a particular and usually beneficial weather pattern which prevails in a single vineyard or a group of vineyards or within a small region. It could be to do with hills or mountains protecting the vine from heavy winds, or even a break in the mountain range allowing the air to freshen and fan the vines in very hot weather. Sometimes the angle of the sun especially the clear brilliant morning sun will strike on vineyard more favorable than another. The rise and fall of the terrain will also have an effect, as will location besides water for ground moisture and reflected heat. These subtle differences in atmospheric conditions, allied to the quality of the soil and the grape variety used are the reason why some vineyards have such outstanding reputations. Bio-climate This is the relationship of soil and climate in a specific vineyard. Such knowledge can be used to obtain stable yields of high quality grapes. Aspect Vineyards are ideally planted on south facing slopes where they point at the sun and benefit from maximum sunshine and good drainage. Siting is of prime importance to capture the sunlight for photosynthesis and good ripening. Some vineyard are sized up to 243m (266 yds) or more on mountainsides, while many of the great vineyards are located in river valleys and along lakesides benefiting from humidity and reflected heat. winter (pruning) There are four basic choices 1.Cane pruning ( The most skilled) 2.Spur pruning ( easier and quicker ) 3.Machine pruning ( effectively spur pruning) 4.Minimal pruning ( effectively no pruning at all during winter )

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Mechanical pruning is after followed by a certain amount of hand pruning or cleaning up in all cases late pruning will delay the development of the buds and result in a more even bed-break. Spring (planting) The optimum time for planting is in early spring as the ground is starting to warm up yet still retain good moisture. If the rooting are planted too early the roots may not new world vine are sometime kept in cool stores and planted in early summer. Foliage sprays The first of the lime.sulphur sprays are applied at woolly-bud stage ( as the buds swell and soften ) to guard against fungal disease. Organic growers or those wishing to minimize spraying will still accept the use of these sprays and Bordeauox mixture. Working the soil There is an increasing recognition of the choice between the traditional agricultural practice of ploughing the soil and of leaning it untilled - relying in the latter case on the use of herbicides to control unwanted weed or excessive grass growth. In frost- prone areas a Billiard table smooth. Base surface between the vines allow air circulation and hence protection a variety of plants to grow there. Thus providing a natural food chair (protecting the grapes ) and adding nitrogen to the soil.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Canopy trimming and training Directing and later in the season limiting the exuberant new growth is of critical important in establishing the balance of the vine and achieving appropriate exposure of the grape Bunches to sunlight traditionally a skilled hand job. it can now be done by a machines which can lift wires and shoots or weave support strings through the canopy (3) Summer Irrigation This period of flowering and fruit set a critical time in which the vine needs warm calm weather and in which the intervention of the grower is limited. Irrigation will begin at this in dry regions in the new world Vine maintenance a) Foliage sprays In cool humid regions to prevent botrytis attacking during flowering such attack destroys the grapes before they can begin to form The vine also need to be sprayed regularly against odium and mildews. Bordeaux mixture ( a solution of copper sulghatelime and water) or systemic fungicides are frequently used. These latter chemical sprays are absorbed in to the sap stream of the plant unfortunately fungal diseases rapidly develop resistance to specific chemicals making it necessary to vary the formula. b) Trimming the vine Though out the growing season the comes must be trimmed and the remaining foliage raised and attached to the trellis wires to allow the maximum sunlight to reach the leaves and grapes Working the soil While the area under the vine will not be disturbed traditional growers still lightly plough the soil between the rows of vine in order to prevent runoff and thus conserve moisture.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Pest control Caterpillars, moths and towards ripening birds have to be controlled other pests to which vine and grapes are lost include rabbits, foxes, snails. (4) AUTUMN Harvest The choice ties between the speed and economy of machine harvesting ( where the vineyard permits it ) and the gentler, slower and more controllable hand-picking. Post-Harvesting sprays At approximately 50% leaf fall a spray is applied to kill mildew spores which would other wise establish themselves on the vine over winter. Working the soil and appliations of fertilizers Traditional growers will work manure and fertilizer in to th soil and bank the soil up under the vine. These by also protecting them from frost. The choice lies with the type and amount of fertilizers on steep sites to counter any run-off the soil may be brought back up the hill side. Vineyard maintenance Between the end of harvest and the commencement of pruning much vineyard maintenance is carries out pruning are removed and either burnt or chopped up and incorporated in to the soil and trellising is checked

CHAPTER 3

Regions in France 12

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Bordeaux Bordeaux tends to be seen as a talisman of order and immutability, but analysis of its vineyard throws awakes some surprising facts. Cabernet Sauvignon, for instance, the vine variety regarded as Bordeaux’s greatest and much-traveled ambassador has a relatively recent history in the Gironde. While Pinot noir was made, drunk, enjoyed and chronicled in burgundy as early as the fourteenth century and possible long before, Cabernet Sauvignon emerged to inject quality into the substantially white-grape vinecentury. Merlot was becoming established in st-Emilion only at about the same time, and took several decades to cross the Gironde.

Today, planting of Cabernet Sauvignon in the Gironde départment form a much smaller proportion of the total than most connoisseurs would imagine-les than 18percent while Merlot covers 32percent of available vineyard land. Only in the Médoc and southeastern half of the Entre-Deux-Mers is Cabernet Sauvignon rather than Merlot the dominant re grape variety –just, in the Médoc the split is Cabernet Sauvignon 52percent, Cabernet Franc 8percnt and merlot 40 percent, and in St-Emilion, Pomerol.Fronsac, Bourg and Blaye, Merlot outweighs Cabernet Sauvignon by more than five to one. Cabernet Franc is quantitatively important only in St-Emilion and Fronsac.

Currently, these three major planted in the Gironde, nearly 90percent of all dark grapes planted in the Gironde,and their proportions are carefully adjusted in each district within the départment to take account of local microclimates. There are signs of a

growing realization, however, that some of the traditional, if difficult, varieties such as Petit Verdot and Carmenère could repay perseverance by providing valuable “seasoning”. Perhaps much more interesting than the relative importance of the red varieties is the role still played by various while varieties, some of them not very distinguished .the

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ last census of the Girondin vignoble showed that plantings of Trebbiano or Ugni Blanc were as high as 6500 hectares (16,250acres), making it the second most planted white vine variety after Sémillon,whose166000 hectares(41,500acres) put it only just behind Cabernet Sauvignon in area covered. Nearly two-thirds of the Ugni Blanc area was in the Hauts de Gironde (Bourg and Blaye bordering on the cognac vineyards of the Charentes, which are also dominated by Ugni Blanc. There were a further 2,000 hectares (5,000acres) of vineyard producing thin, tart Ugni Blanc wine in Enter-Deux-Mers. That other alembic-directed white variety of western France, Colombard ,occupies a total Girondin area more than half as important as that of Ugni Blanc wine in EnterDeux-Mers. That other alembic-directed white variety of western France, Colombard, occupies a total of Girondin area more than half as important as that of Ugni Blanc, while planting of Merlot Blanc, not a variety of which the wine lover is taught much covered a good 1,700 hectares(4250acres) of Bordeaux vineyard. In 1979,Sauvignon planting were only one-eighth those of sémillion-an unexpected statistic in view of the number of Sauvignon-dominated white Bordeaux that are now available.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

The Loire Even superficially, the Loire valley presents a vary diverse pattern of cine plantings ,from Sauvignon Blanc around the major bend in the river through Chenin Blanc, Cabernet France and Gamay in the middle of the seaward stretch to Muscadet or Melon de Bourgogne at the river mouth. Closer inspection reveals an even more confused picture, with unexpected high reliance on hybrids As recently as 1979,no fewer than 23 different vine varieties covered more than 100 hectors (250acres) of the Loire total of well over 60,000 hectares (150000 acres) of vineyards .Variety such as Grolleau, Arbois Pineau d’Aunis and Folle Blanche, none of them exactly of great fame, are among the Loire’s most popular And, just to add further diversity, all sorts of Loire satellite regions ,Haut-Poitou or St-pourςain-sur-Sioule, for example , are now emerging as viticultural entities –usually with their very own variety profile.

In 1979 the hybrids plantet, Chambourcin, Villard Noir and Bacos Noir and Blanc accounted for 6,000 hectares (15,000acres), or 10 percent of all Loire vines. Many of these have doubtless have doubtless been grubbed up in the late few years, but their continued importance illustrates well just how much very ordinary wine is made in the Loire. In vignerons nor for their resistance to winter cold ,but for their resistance to or recovery from spring frost.The change in the balance of grapes varieties has provided the real drama in the

Loire in the last decade or so. Although the total vignoble of the Loire-et-Cher département at the easternmost tip of the main Loire wine region has shrunk,Gamay and Sauvignon doubled their area in the seventies at the expense of Arbois, Pineau d’Aunis Chenin and Plantet These planting have firmly established the two varietals from what might be called Greater Touraine.Meanwhile plantings of Gamay in Indre-et-Loire around the town of Tours itself have actually declined; and the département has become yet more polarizes as a producer of

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Chenin/Bourgueil district .Grolleau is in decline here

In Anjou country, Grolleau, mainstay of France’s most exported rosé, has been holding its own, while Cabernet Franc has been catching up on Chenin.Chenin Blanc remains the great mystery of the Loire valley. Delicious as the best of its an inconveniently early budding and late-ripening variety for a wine region so far from the equator. Some Chardonnay has been creeping in to Anjou Blanc, to figure in official statistics. An increase in plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon was already noticeable by 1979 when there were more than 1,300 hectares (3,250acres) in the middle of the Loire vignoble compared with only 400(1,000 acres) in the reds of both Anjou and

Saumur, and its success adds weight to the view that Cabernet Sauvignon could thrive much better in St-Emilion and Pomerol than most growers believe. Around the month of the Loire, the Muscadet grape Melon represents one vine in every two and has been gradually increasing its importance to the detriment of the Folle lanche or Gros Plant Nantais .All sorts of other varieties are grown on the fringes of the main Muscadet vineyard, however, including some Gamay and Cabernet Franc as well as an array of hybrid.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Alsace Alsace must occupy a vary special place in a work of this sort .Not only do its winemakers show more concern to get pure grape flavour into the bottle than any of their counterparts else where, they have also worshipped vine varietal labeling.

Every act in a quality-conscious Alsace wine cellar is designed to reserve natural varietal aroma; no nuance is masked by the deliberate maintenance of residual sugar. And a good bottle of wine from Alsace (good, happily, being typical) sings out its grape of inspiration on the label as well as in the glass. Alsace was the last major French wine region to join the Appellation Contrôléé party and did so with just one basic appellation to be predicated only by grape variety. Today the region’s vines are a happy combination of French and German influence but it is worth considering that if it were still German, as it was at the turn of the century, then Muller-Thurgau (of which there is not a single vine today) would presumably reign supreme.

Although the world’s connoisseurs tend to think of Alsace as a homogeneous wine region there is a sharp viticultural distinction between the Haut-Rhin and Bas-Rhin départements ,or between those vineyards on the flatter land north of Sélestat and the more obviously Vosgienne wineland to the south. In the coarser soils of the vineyards of the Plaine d’ Alsace in Bas-Rhin Silvaner (sylvaner) has been the most popular variety, but Riesling and now Pinot

Blanc are fast catching up as wine consumers become disaffected with the some hat austere character of Silvaner (though give it an aroma and you almost have Sauvignon Blanc).Up and well into the lee of the Vosges,Gewűrztraminer is quantitatively the most important vine, grown to produce sufficient of Alsace’s

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ most distinctive wine to meet the demands of visitors from across the Rhine. It is here, in the concentration of the finest ,steepest sites that by far the highest proportion of each of the region’s cépages nobles is grown

Although the range of varieties allowed in this relatively small wine region is wide for northern France, Alsace vine growers are backed by sufficient history so that they can match variety to site with a precision that would be the envy of many in the world’s newer wine regions. Even in an area as tiny as the commune of Riquewihr (population 2,000),for instance it is well-known that steep, chalky Schoenenbourg vineyard is for Riesling, the heavier soils and gentler elevation of sporen for Gewűrztraminer. Although Pinots Gris and Noir fascinate Alsace enthusiasts, and constitute major items on the wine lists of the regions excellent restaurants these varieties are planted in only very limited quantity –through Pinot Noir plantings have been increasing over the last few years, just as they have further along the frontier of red wine possibility in Germany.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Even in 1982 Pinot Noir plantings covered less than a third of the total area planted with Alsace’s most important varieties – Gewűrztraminer, Riesling, Silvaner and what is usually called Pinot Blanc. For some reason, Alsace chooses to hide the identity of one of its most planted grapes varieties. Auxerrois is rarely seen on a label, yet it constitutes nearly half the blend of many a wine sold as Pinot Blanc Auxerrios covers for Pinot Blanc’s meanness in poor years, but gets little public recognition for it, even though plantings of both Auxerrois and true Pinot Blanc have been increasing at the expenses of Silvaner since 1979.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Perhaps the most surprising fact to emerge from viticultural analysis of the Champagne regions the supremacy of Meunier, in quantitative terms at least. About 50 percent of all Champagne vineyards in the major Marne heartland shown here were planted with Meunier in1979, while the much nobler Pinot Noir accounted for only 24 percent and Chardonnay 26 percent.

The area of marne vineyard increased enormously in the seventies, by about a tideland this expansion has increased apace in the eighties, too Plantings of Chardonnay increased significantly more than those of the dark grapes, as one would expect at a time when the (surely tautological?) Blanc de Blanc style came into its own, not only for champagne but also for still wine of all kinds.

The general principle on which varieties have been chosen by the vignerons of champagne, however, is that the most capricious vine of the there .Pinot Noir, is planted wherever there is more than half a chance of its ripening properly. the Meunier is planted wherever the lane is so vulnerable to spring frosts that Chardonnay would be at risk and Pinot Noir impossible .It is the only variety for the low-lying vineyards

of the vallée de la Marne and those in the Aisne

département

The vineyards of the Aube to the south on the other hand are considerably warmer than the Marne average and 2,700 of the 3,400 hectares(6,750 of the 8,500acres) are planted with Pinot Noir this means that once the encépagement of the Aube and Aisne is included in the overall cuvée ,the Pinot Noir’s contribution increases to 30 percent

Meunier’s decreases to44 percent and Chardonnay’s

remains at 26 percent .other varieties such as Petit Meslier and Arbane are there as mere smatterings.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ There are subtle variations on the general principle outlined above, however. Wherever the chalk underlay of the countryside is at its most exposed, Chardonnay is the natural choice. Thus, the Côte des Blancs to the south of Epernay, the very similar Côte de Sézanne to the southwest and the Chardonnay planting around the northern escarpment of the Montagne de Reims are where Champagne’s best white grapes are to be found

Pinot Noir is at its greatest concentration on the southern slopes of the Montahene de Reims because that is where the vineyards enjoy maximum exposure to the sunshine and warmth. The stricture that Meunier is not allowed in the most august sites in the top crus is hardly needed since there is every economic

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

incentive for growers to plant the two cépages nobles for which an extra franc a kilo is automatically paid.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ The philosophically minded will wonder why it is these three grapes, which have been chosen as ingredients for the world’s most famous fizz. As has been outlined above, Pinot Noir at least is far from ideal for this climate, and Meunier has its detractors even in the region itself. Put those facts together with the difficultly of producing white wine from black grapes , and the difficulty some tasters have in distinguishing Blanc de Blancs champagnes from the more usual Blanc de Blanc champagne from the more usual Blanc de Noire et Blanc, and one sometimes wonders why Chardonnay is not more widespread in the region

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Burgundy The Burgundian is the original proponent of varietals wines , although if you said that to him he would have not a clue what you were talking about. For centuries –longer than in any other tine wine region made them, with only a few temporary hiccups, from one grape variety alone. In Burgundy, red means Pinot Noir and white means Chardonnay. Chablis to the north is faithful to Chardonnay but on the Côte d’Or, France’s most concentrated stretch of top-quality vineyard, more than seven in every to vines is Pinot Noir. This may surprise those makers and drinkers of wine in the newer wine regions who are so besotted with Chardonnay. It certainly helps to explain the astronomical prices of fine white burgundy. Who can blame the Burundians for their tenacity with Pinot Noir when they appear to have almost executive rights to its successful cultivation? While Chardonnay has shown itself an enthusiastic traveler and adapted well in almost every country which claims to be a wine producer. Only a handful of non-Burgundy Pinot Noirs have so far shown anything like the quality deemed normal in the thin strip of vineyards from Dijon to Chagny. Devotion to Pinot Noir seems only sensible. Some pinot Noir plant material has been of very disappointing quality , however, with predictable results in the bottle. It took the seventies’ experience of the world’s connoisseurs, and Burgundy’s vignerons, the importance of clonal selection.

There had been hints that quality was not uppermost in every vine grower’s heart ever since the vignoble had been so intricately parcellated after the Revolution. In the first half of this century even those working the precious Côte d’Or Vineyards were tempted by the disease resistance and high sugar levels offered by the likes of Oberlin, Plantet and Baco Noir. In 1968 these three varieties still occupied 10 percent of available Côte d’Or vineyard land, although they have been substantially grubbed up by now. Even Gamay and Aligoté have been declining in the Côte d’Or and now represent only about 10 percent of total vines.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Aligoté, Burgundy’s definitely second white-vine variety, seems to be on the way out. It is being replaced by the more lucrative Chardonnay throughout Burgundy. This has been particularly. This has been particularly obvious in the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais where Chardonnay has almost overtaken Gamay to become the most planted variety. Point Noir accounts for about a quarter of total vineyard land in the area between the Côte d’Or and Beaujolais proper. In the seventies much of the 1,000-odd hectares Gamays Teinturiers was replanted with Pinot Noir. Gamay Teinturiers were never a specialty of the heartland of the Beaujolais region, which is doggedly Gamay county and presents the wine lover with as successful an illustration of matching variety to region a he will ever encounter. Is

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ it significant that true Gamay has traveled so little and so unhappily from its base in the Beaujolais hills? Burgundy is distinguished, if that is the right word , by its exceptionally high cine density: up to 13,0000 plants per hectare now , and at one time even more

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

CHAPTER4

French red grape varieties Cabernet Franc Recent studies in ampelography, using the relatively new application of DNA fingerprinting, have determined that cabernet franc is one of the genetic parents of cabernet sauvignon (the other is sauvignon blanc). Both cabernet varieties are among the five major grapes of Bordeaux. The differences between franc and sauvignon become apparent when grown and fermented in close proximity. Cabernet franc vines bear thinner-skinned, earlier-ripening grapes with lower overall acidity, when compared to cabernet sauvignon. Yields are similar, although cabernet franc normally buds and ripens somewhat earlier. Consequently vineyards in climates where rain is a harvest-time threat often plant this grape, in place of or in addition to cabernet sauvignon. Cabernet franc vines survive cold winters better than cabernet sauvignon, but are more susceptible to being damaged by Spring frosts. France has by far the most cabernet franc plantings of any wine producing nation with over 35,000 acres. There are significant plantings of cabernet franc in St. Emilion, the Loire Valley (where it is known as Breton), and south west France (aka Bouchy). There are cabernet franc vineyards in Romania, Hungary, the Balkans, and the Friuli region of north eastern Italy (aka cabernet frank). New plantings in the 1990s in Australia, New Zealand, and Argentina show promise. In the United States, cabernet franc is planted in Long Island, New York, and in Washington state. California has about 2,000 acres, mostly planted since 1980, over half in Napa and Sonoma.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Depending a great deal on vineyard practices, the flavor profile of Cabernet Franc may be both fruitier and sometimes more herbal or vegetative than Cabernet Sauvignon, although lighter in both color and tannins. Over-cropping and underexposure each tend to accentuate the vegetative flavor elements. Typically somewhat spicy in aroma and often reminiscent of plums and especially violets, Cabernet Franc is more often used as a secondary or tertiary element in varietallyblended red wines, such as Bordeaux or Meritage, instead of as a stand-alone varietal bottling. Cabernet Franc Smell and Flavor Descriptors

Varietal

Processing

Aromas/Flavors: Fruit:

Bouquets/Flavors: raspberry,

cherry, plum, strawberry Floral: violet

Oak

(light):

vanilla,

coconut, sweet wood Oak (heavy): oak, smoke, toast, tar

Herbal: bell pepper, stems

Bottle

musk,

mushroom, earth, cedar, cigar box

Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon makes the most dependable candidate for aging, more often improving into a truly great wine than any other single varietal. With age, its distinctive black currant aroma can develop bouquet

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Age:

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ nuances of cedar, violets, leather, or cigar box and its typically tannic edge may soften and smooth considerably. It is the most widely planted and significant among the five dominant varieties in the Medoc district of France's Bordeaux region, as well as the most successful red wine produced in California. Long thought to be an ancient variety, recent genetic studies at U.C. Davis have determined that Cabernet Sauvignon is actually the hybrid offspring of Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Cabernet sauvignon berries are small, spherical with black, thick and very tough skin. This toughness makes the grapes fairly resistant to disease and spoilage and able to withstand some autumn rains with little damage. It is a mid to late season ripener. These growth characteristics, along with its flavor appeal have made Cabernet Sauvignon one of the most popular red wine varieties worldwide. The best growing sites for producing quality wines from Cabernet Sauvignon are in moderately warm, semi-arid regions providing a long growing season, on well-drained, not-too-fertile soils. Vineyards in Sonoma County's Alexander Valley, much of the Napa Valley, and around the Paso Robles area of the Central Coast have consistently produced the highest-rated California examples. Typically, Cabernet Sauvignon wines smell like black currants with a degree of bell pepper or weediness, varying in intensity with climatic conditions, viticulture practices, and vinification techniques. Climates and vintages that are either too cool or too warm, rich soils, too little sun exposure, premature harvesting, and extended maceration are factors that may lead to more vegetative, less fruity character in the resulting wine. In the mouth, Cabernet can have liveliness and even a degree of richness, yet usually finishes with firm astringency. Some of the aroma and flavor descriptors most typically found in Cabernet Sauvignon are: Cabernet Sauvignon Smell and Flavor Descriptors

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Varietal

Processing Bouquets/Flavors:

Aromas/Flavors: Fruit: black currant, blackberry, black cherry

Oak (light): vanilla, coconut, sweet wood

Herbal: bell pepper, asparagus

(methoxy-

Oak (heavy): oak, smoke, toast, tar

pyrazine), green olive Spice: ginger, green peppercorn, pimento

Bottle Age: cedar, cigar box, musk, mushroom, earth, leather

Cabernet Sauvignon began to emerge as America's most popular varietal red wine in the mid-60s. By the late 1980s, it had replaced "burgundy" as a consumer's generic term for red wine (as had Chardonnay, replacing "chablis" as the equivalent for generic white wine). This popularity was based partly on the flavor appeal of the grape and partly on its status or snob-appeal as a "collector's" wine. Indeed Cabernet Sauvignon is the wine most subject to inflationary climb, as fans, collectors, and the Nouveau Riche bid the supply ever upward.

Carignan The most widely-planted red wine grape in France is Carignan (sometimes spelled Carignane in the US, a.k.a. Carginano in Italy and Cariñena or Mazeulo in Spain). Planting became widespread in France during the 1960s, when Algeria gained its independence and was no longer an inexpensive source of ripe grapes. Most Carignan is confined to the Languedoc and southeastern France and is gradually being replaced with more distinctive and aromatic varieties. Carignan buds and ripens quite late, so is not

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ prone to spring frosts, but requires a long season. A vigorous, though not really hardy vine, it is very sensitive to downy mildew and powdery mildew (a.k.a. oidium). Carignan has but a single characteristic to recommend it for planting: high yields. An acre of Carignan may easily produce 10 to 12 tons of grapes. The berries are bluish-black, round and fairly large, with fairly thick, astringent skins. They hang in large, rather compact clusters that are shortstemmed, difficult to harvest, and susceptible to grape worms. They also rot easily. Like Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, and Grenache, Carignan is a somewhat unstable species, with the tendency to mutate. The French recognize and approve over 25 separate clones. Carignan mostly produces wines that have high color, acidity, and tannin, without displaying much distinct flavor or personality and with very little appeal. Only a few growers carefully manage vine vigor and limit crop size to produce interesting, distinctive wines from this grape. As with many other varietals, older carignan vines seem to produce wines with generally more character and less brutality. Thus, Carignan frequently becomes a wine for blending or, on its own, for inexpensive everyday consumption. The whole cluster fermentation technique of carbonic maceration can somewhat improve its tendency toward harshness. Oak treatments, on the other hand, seem merely to exacerbate the variety's underlying toughness, while adding little to either its complexity or interest. l Carignan Smell and Flavor Descriptors

Varietal

Processing Bouquets/Flavors:

Aromas/Flavors: Fruit: cherry, strawberry, raspberry

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Carbonic Maceration: banana, bubblegum, cotton candy (spun sugar)

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Floral: violet, rose petal

Oak (light): vanilla, coconut, sweet wood; (heavy) oak, smoke, toast, tar, anise, licorice

Cinsaut Cinsaut (or Cinsault) is most often used as a blending grape with other types. France has more Cinsaut planted (50,000 hectares) than Cabernet Sauvignon and there is as much Cinsaut acreage planted in its former backdoor wine colony of Algeria. Cinsaut is one of those "grower" varieties that easily produces a very large crop of 6 to 10 tons per acre. At this crop level, it shows little flavor distinction. When properly managed to crop from just 2 to 4 tons per acre, it can produce quite flavorful wines of strong aroma and easy quaffability. The tight bunches rot easily, so it does best in drier climes. The Cinsaut vine is fairly drought tolerant and has a fairly short growing season. With cluster stems that easily detatch from the vine, Cinsaut adapts well to machine harvesting.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ It is one of the most often planted varieties in Southern France, Algeria and Morocco, and is a major red variety in South Africa, Corsica, and Lebanon. The North African plantings were particularly important when, as colonies of France, their wine was shipped across the Mediterranean for blending. The grape was originally known as "Hermitage" in South Africa (although French Hermitage has none in its blend). When a South African professor crossed the grape with Pinot Noir, he therefore named it Pinotage (now the Top Red there). There are also Cinsaut plantings in Australia, although it has yet to achieve popularity there. Wine made from cinsaut grapes can have great perfume and supple texture. Fairly low in tannin, it is often made into rosé by itself or blended, to brighten the fruit and tone down the harsher edges of carignan, in particular. Although officially sanctioned in Châteauneuf du Pape, it is used by only a few producers in their blends.

Cinsault Smell and Flavor Descriptors

Varietal Aromas/Flavors:

Processing Bouquets/Flavors:

Fruit: strawberry

Terroir: musk, meat

Floral:

Oak (light): sweet wood, vanilla

Spice:

Oak (heavy): oak, smoke, toast, tar

Herbal:

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Bottle Age:

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Gamay Noir Gamay noir is the primary black grape of France's Beaujolais region, where the wines are typically fermented, spared from aging, and consumed young to appreciate their fresh, fruity qualities, with more tang than tannin. In 1395, the Duke of Burgundy, Phillip the Bold, ordered Gamay vineyards to be torn out and banned the variety evermore from being planted in the vineyards of Burgundy, so that it would not compete with Pinot Noir. Although this decree nearly erradicated Gamay altogether, it found a new home to the south in Beaujolais. The name is so closely associated with Beaujolais, that many vineyard plantings and wines, in California especially, were incorrectly identified as the variety "Gamay Beaujolais" for many years (an illegal practice after 2007). Gamay is also planted, but is less significant, in the Loire, Rhône, Jura and Savoie appellations of France. Although gamay noir vines grow with moderate vigor in many soil types, it seems partial to granite and limestone soils. Gamay can be quite productive, averaging five to seven tons per acre. Heavy crop loads may slow growth to below average, as well as reduce fruit quality, so crop thinning is often used to control this tendency.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Gamay begins its annual cycle early as grapes go, budding and flowering early and may therefore become victim to early Spring frosts. Ripening is usually early to mid-season. Both the clusters and juicy berries of gamay noir are large and it is a relatively easy variety to pick, with relatively thin but tough skins. The true full name of this grape is Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc; there are, however, some clones of teinturier gamays, with colored rather than clear juice. Generally light in color with hue that usually is more blue-purple than red, wines made from gamay noir can be very fragrant, full of fruit and fresh, floral esters. Frequently tart in their youth, wines made from gamay noir tend nonetheless to be short lived. Like its distant cousins, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Gamay tends to easily lose its varietal aroma and flavor identity when blended with another grape variety. Both red wines and rosés are typically produced from unblended gamay noir. The technique of carbonic maceration is quite often used to enhance the fruitiness of this grape. The fruit is placed whole, uncrushed, in the fermenting vessel and the fermentation begins within the individual berries, trapping the forming bubbles of carbon dioxide until the grape bursts. The resulting wine has a lighter, yet brighter color, a "banana", "candy" or "bubblegum" quality in the fruity aroma, often accompanied by a slight petillance or "tickle" to the texture. l Gamay Noir Smell and Flavor Descriptors

Varietal

Processing Bouquets/Flavors:

Aromas/Flavors: Fruit:

cherry,

strawberry, raspberry

Floral: rose petal

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violet,

Carbonic Maceration: banana, bubblegum, cotton candy (spun sugar)

Oak (rarely): vanilla, coconut, sweet wood, oak, smoke, toast, tar

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Gewürztraminer Gewürztraminer is one of the most pungent wine varietals, easy for even the beginning taster to recognize by its heady, aromatic scent. While the French have achieved the greatest success with this grape and its name may be German, the history of Gewürztraminer began in Italy's Tyrollean Alps, near the village of Termeno (Tramin) in Alto Adige. Since the Middle Ages, the parent variety traminer has grown there. Traminer also is grown widely throughout Eastern Europe, but neither abundantly nor very successfully. With hardly any of the characteristic of its spicy offspring, traminer berries are pale green and make much less interesting or appealing wine, hardly scented at all. Like pinot noir, however, traminer vines do have a propensity to mutate. One of these mutations, a few centuries ago, resulted in a vine that produces dark pinkish-brown, spotted berries and makes very distinctive and heady wine. The French began calling this prized clone traminer musqué, traminer parfumé, or traminer aromatique; the Germans roter traminer; and the Italians traminer rosé, traminer rosso, or termener aromatico. In the late 19th century, the Alsatians began calling this vine gewürztraminer, although it wasn't until 1973 that this name was officially sanctioned. Wine texts often report that "gewürz" translates from German as "spicy", but considering the list of various synonyms, the more likely contextual meaning is "perfumed".Alsace has achieved the most success with Gewürztraminer. Even here some producers give it less priority than other varietals and make accordingly dull wines. Those houses that pay specific attention to and take particular pride in their Gewürztraminer include Léon Beyer, Schlumberger,

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ and Zind-Humbrecht. While the gewürztraminer vine is prized for its wine, it can be despised for its viticultural difficulty. It buds early in the Spring, so it is particularly susceptible to damage from frost. Gewürztraminer also has weak defenses against viral vine infections. Even healthy vines are not very productive, with small clusters, so there is a great temptation for growers to over-crop, which results in dilute, lightweight wine. The berries, with their thick and tough skins, can attain high sugar levels of amazing concentration. Alcohol levels, therefore, can get quite high in dry versions. Conversely, low acidity and high pH in Gewürztraminer are problematic. Close monitoring and precise harvest timing are critical. Early picking retains acid, but without long "hang time" distinctive varietal character fails to develop. Pleasant results are nearly impossible in warm climates. At the Colmar viticultural station in Alsace and at Geisenheim in Germany work is underway developing clones that bud and ripen later, produce larger fruit clusters, with more consistent and greater production levels and that are virus-free. The challenge is to gain these improvements in economy while retaining gewürztraminer's unique character and intensity. The dark pink color of gewürztraminer grapes results in wines colored from light to dark golden yellow with a copper tone, depending upon the fruit ripeness. Gewürztraminer is quite full-bodied, more so than most any other white wine type. In fact, the combination of its strong, heady, perfumey scent, exotic lychee-nut flavor and heavy-oily texture can be overwhelming and tiring to many palates. There is a slight tendency to bitterness that seems exacerbated by ripeness, so a light touch is needed at the wine press. Many makers finish their Gewürztraminer with a mask of residual sugar. Gewürztraminer can be made into an excellent dessert wine, in fact. The most frequently encountered (but not exclusive) smell and/or flavor elements found in Gewürztraminer-based wines include:

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Gewürztraminer Smell and/or Flavor Elements

Varietal Aromas/Flavors: Floral: rose petal, gardenia,

Processing Bouquets/Flavors: Petroleum: terpene, diesel

honeysuckle

Fruity: lychee, linalool,

Wood: oak (not usually)

peach, mango

Aggressive: spice, perfume

Late Harvest: Botrytis, honey, sweet cabbage

Gewürztraminer wines are an excellent match for fresh fruit and cheeses and a good complement to many simple fish and chicken dishes, especially recipes that include capsaicin (hot pepper) spices, oriental five spice, or even curry. Due to

limited popularity and

viticultural and

production difficulties,

gewürztraminer acreage has remained relatively static in most world appellations for several years. Encouraging signs of new success come from fairly recent plantings in New Zealand 1(apparently since 1990, NZ Gewürztraminer acreage has see-sawed from a low of 210 to as much as 540 acres) and the Pacific Northwest (Oregon total 182 acres; Washington, 330 ac). The nominees for Best Supporting Appellation in California Gewürztraminer (1,670 acres total) are: Mendocino County (298 ac), Monterey County (716 ac), Russian River Valley, and Sonoma County (175 ac). California wineries that have consistently produced outstanding results are so few that they bear mentioning: Navarro grows Gewürztraminer in Mendocino and makes stellar and awardwinning wines in both dry and dessert styles. Thomas Fogarty makes an excellent dry style from Monterey County grapes. Fetzer makes a lightly-sweet version that is always serviceable and reasonably-priced and, occasionally, an excellent example.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Grenache Grenache noir is the world's most widely planted grape used to make red wine, sometimes made into a stand-alone varietal, frequently as a rosé, but most often as a backbone of red blends. Used as a component in some Northern Rhône reds, nearly exclusively for Rhône rosés and as the primary component in nearly all Southern Rhône red blends, Grenache is probably most notable as the base varietal for Chateauneuf du Pape, Cotes du Rhône and Gigondas. In spite of its fame coming from French wines, Spain is most likely this grape's origin1. Grenache is known by local names (alicante, carignane rousse) in the Mediterranean regions of France. Particularly important in the areas of the Languedoc and Rousillon, there are also variants with different colored berries: white grenache blanc, and pink grenache rose or grenache gris. Nearly three times as much grenache is planted in Spain as in France. The spanish know this grape and wine as garnacha or garnacha tinta and it is the dominant red wine variety in the Rioja and Catalonia. The grape is known in Italy as cannonau. In the New World, Australia has extensive plantings of Grenache and has been very successful making full-bodied Grenache-dominated red blends. Until surpassed by plantings of merlot in the past decade, Grenache was the third most planted red variety in California after Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon. Most of this acreage is in the Central Valley and used to produce bulk rather than premium wine. An abundant producer of fruit, grenache habitually will "alternate" a crop of 8 to 10 tons per acre one year and 14 to 16 tons the next. The vine is very sturdy and woody, lends itself well to head or spur pruning, and survives arid and drought conditions better than less vigorous vines. Cool and damp conditions can cause "deadarm" disease in grenache, however, and its compact and well-filled clusters

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ are quite prone to rot. Grenache is also susceptible to shatter or coulure. The grenache grape is relatively low in both pigment and malic acid, and oxidizes readily. Although some 100% varietal wines are produced from grenache, particularly in Spain's Rioja and from some "old vines" plantings in California, it is mostly used to "fill out" red blends and soften harsher partners, such as syrah and carignan. On its own, grenache makes fleshy, heady, very fruity wines in their youth. They tend to age rapidly, showing tawny colors and prone to oxidation or maderization after only a relatively short time in bottle. The general character and mouthfeel of Grenache wines are more distinctive and identifyable than any particular aromas or flavors.

Grenache Smell and Flavor Descriptors Varietal

Processing

Aromas/Flavors: Character:

Bouquets/Flavors: rustic,

fleshy, sweet, dusty Fruit: black currant, blackberry

Oak (light): vanilla, sweet wood Oak (heavy): oak, smoke, toast, tar Bottle Age: tobacco, dried apricot, cigar box

Partly due to its commonplace abundance and partly due to its hardiness in warmer climates

Merlot Merlot is to the American wine consumer in the 1990s as "burgundy" was in the 70s: the new generic red. A "boom" in wine consumption, combined with the consumer trend to move away from generic wine blends and into varietals,

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ stimulated plantings of "new," as well as "proven" wine grapes in California during the '70s. Merlot did not appear as a California varietal label until the end of the decade and was not a big seller until the end of the '80s. Less than 2,000 acres existed in California in 1985; there are over 50,000 acres in 2003. Merlot is by far the most widely planted grape of the entire Bordeaux region and third, behind carignan and grenache as the most planted black variety in France. However, it has a starring role in only one region, historically, north of Bordeaux's Gironde River, where it is the basis of the wines of St. Emilion and Pomerol. Château Petrus, which has risen in consumer stature in the past three decades, is over 90% Merlot. South of the Gironde, however, merlot usually plays a supporting role in typical Medoc blends with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Château Palmer in the medoc is about 60% Merlot. Because merlot ripens at least a week earlier than either cabernet variety, it is "vineyard insurance" where rains are a factor at harvest. The best quality merlot grows in rocky, arid ground, but is fairly adaptable and grows better than the cabernets in clay-based soils, even in damp, cool climates. Since merlot both buds and flowers early, growers' main worry is susceptibility to shatter or coulure, brought about by frost, rain, or early heatwaves in the Spring. The berry of merlot is relatively thin-skinned and somewhat prone to rot. Merlot is moderately vigorous in vine growth, but must sometimes be reined in from setting too large of a crop by judicious pruning, often followed weeks later by cluster thinning. Merlot on fertile soil may produce eight tons per acre, but best fruit quality is gained if the crop is kept at six tons per acre or less. Merlot's tendencies towards both shatter and over-cropping are paradoxical. Careful selection of both clone and site can avoid this problem, as shatter is more serious in colder climates. While its flavor profile is similar to Cabernet Sauvignon1, Merlot tends to be less distinctive and slightly more herbaceous overall in both aroma and taste. Ripeness seems critical; both under ripe and overripe grapes lean away from fruit and towards herbaceousness. Merlot has slightly lower natural acidity than

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Cabernet and generally less astringency, therefore usually a more lush mouth-feel. The most frequent, but not exclusive, aromas and flavors typically found in Merlot include:

Merlot Smell and Flavor Descriptors Varietal

Processing

Aromas/Flavors:

Bouquets/Flavors:

Fruit: currant, black cherry, plum

Oak (light): vanilla, coconut, sweet wood

Floral: violet, rose

Oak (heavy): oak, smoke, toast, tar

Spice: clove,

bay

caramel, leaf,

green

peppercorn Herbal: bell pepper,

Bottle mushroom,

Age: earth,

truffle,

coffee,leather,

cedar, cigar box .

green olive

Earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon to mature in bottle, Merlot is held in higher esteem by wine drinkers than by wine collectors.Syrah is richer and darker, Pinot Noir lighter and more velvety, but Merlot has become the darling red wine. Is it because the consumer finds Merlot easy-to-drink or is it perhaps, because Merlot is easy-to-say? I'll have a glass of Merlot, please, while I think about it.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Mourvèdre Mourvèdre originated in Spain, where it is called monastrell or bobal, and, with over 250,000 acres planted there, only grenache outnumbers its total vineyard acreage. It is the principal black grape of the five appellations that cluster on Spain's Southeastern Mediterranean Coast, Almansa, Valencia, Alicante, Jumilla, and Yecla. Prior to the late Nineteenth Century phyloxera devastation, mourvédre was also widely planted in Southern France. There are contradictions and anomolies in the growth characteristics and properties of mourvédre vines. Mourvédre is a very late variety in both bud break and ripening season. It can recover quite well from Spring frosts, but sometimes fail to survive cold Winter temperatures. It craves heat, but is drought-sensitive. Phylloxera nearly drove mourvèdre to extinction, because the vines took so poorly to grafting that most vineyardists deemed the results not worth the effort. Replanting did not begin seriously until following World War II, 60 years after the devastation, when sufficient vinestock was developed that had both adapted to grafting and had consistent production history. Until the late 1960s, however, the main French plantings of mourvédre were in Provence, where it is the dominant grape in Bandol. Total mourvédre vineyards in France increased from 2,200 acres in 1968 to nearly 14,000 by 1988. Mourvèdre is a slow-ripening variety that develops tight bunches of grapes that need good ventilation to avoid rot. It seems to do best in windy climates like Southern France, and in parts of Spain and Algeria. On their own, Mourvèdre wines tend to be deep-colored, quite tannic, somewhat alcoholic, and have generally "spicy" aromas and, sometimes, "gamey" flavors in their youth.

Typical Mourvèdre Smell and/or Flavor Descriptors

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Varietal Aromas/Flavors: Spice: thyme, clove, cinnamon, black pepper

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Processing Bouquets/Flavors: Oak

(heavy):

oak,

smoke, toast, tar, sweet wood

Faunal: gamey

.

Floral: violet

.

Fruit: blackberry

.

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Pinot Noir Pinot Noir is one of the oldest grape varieties to be cultivated for the purpose of making wine. Ancient Romans knew this grape as Helvenacia Minor and vinified it as early as the first century AD. Recognized worldwide as a great wine grape, pinot noir has many alias and is grown in Algeria, Argentina, Australia, Austria (called

Blauburgunder

or

Spätburgunder),

Brazil,

Canada,

France,

Germany (Spätburgunder),

Czechoslovakia,

England, Greece,

Hungary, Italy (Pinot Nero), Mexico, New Zealand, Switzerland (Clevner, labeled "Dole" when blended with Gamay Noir), the United States, and Yugoslavia (Burgundac). The reputation that gets pinot noir so much attention, however, is owed to the wines of Burgundy (Bourgogne), France. For most of wine history, this twomile-wide, thirty-mile-long stretch of hills, called the Côte d'Or ("Slope of Gold"), is the only region to achieve consistent success from the pinot noir vine. The quality of Bourgogne is due to a number of factors. Its vineyards slope gently down toward the East, providing the vines with long sun exposure yet avoiding afternoon heat. The soil there is very calcareous (chalky; containing calcium carbonate), offering good drainage. Well-drained soils have a higher average temperature, which assists ripening. Pinot noir seems to reflect more pronounced Gout de Terroir, or flavor of the soil, than other black grape types, making vineyard site selection a critical factor. Difficulties plague pinot noir at every step, from propagation to even its bottle-aging characteristics. Genetically unstable, the parent vine may produce offspring that bear fruit that is nothing like the parent's in the size and shape of the berry or cluster and will frequently even have different aromas, flavors, and levels of productivity. There are 46 recognized clones (genetic variants) of Pinot Noir in

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Dijon, France. Ampelographers estimate there are as many as 200 to possibly 1

1,000 clones of pinot noir worldwide. By comparison, cabernet sauvignon has

only twelve identifiable clones. Nearly every affliction known to affect vines is common among pinot noir vineyards. Although quite tolerant of cold climates, it is particularly susceptible to Spring frosts, because it is one of the earliest-leafing varieties. The sharpshooter leafhopper finds pinot noir a perfect host. This bug carries Pierce's Disease, which can destroy an entire vineyard in as little as three years. Leaf-roll virus is prevalent in almost all pinot noir plantings over ten years old. The pinot vines are not very vigorous and often lack adequate leaf cover to protect the fruit from birds, which do much damage. Even if the grapes survive the birds, if not picked promptly at maturity, the thin-skinned and tender berries shrivel and dry out rapidly (notice this shriveling in the photo), resulting in a raisiny aroma and neutral flavor. Pinot Noir is also one of the more difficult wines to ferment. Partly due to the presence of 18 amino acids, which are naturally balanced in this variety, Pinot Noir ferments violently, often "boiling" up and out of its container, speeding the process out of control. Color retention is a major problem for the thin-skinned berries. Pinot is very prone to acetification and often loses the sometimes promising aromas and flavors it seems to display through fermentation and aging, as soon as it is bottled. There is one component in which Pinot Noir seems naturally quite rich, three to four times higher compared to other varieties, especially when it is grown in cooler and more humid climates: resveratrol. While this may not affect the aspects of sensory enjoyment, it may draw the attention of health-conscious consumers. Pinot Noir shows some promise and has a possible future in the Willamette Valley of Oregon, the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia, and in New Zealand, although all may prove to have growing seasons that are generally too short and too humid for consistently outstanding results. The popular image persists that California Pinot Noir is a light, fruity wine

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ of no consequence, but California vintners over the past twenty years have been improving site and clonal selections, viticultural methods, and vinification techniques to increase their record of success. The nominees for Best Supporting Appellation in California Pinot Noir are much the same as for Chardonnay: Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County); Russian River Valley (Sonoma County); Carneros (in both Sonoma and Napa Counties); Anderson Valley (Mendocino County); as well as the Pinnacles (Monterey County) and, recently, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County). Great Pinot Noir creates a lasting impression on the palate and in the memory. Its aroma can be intense with a ripe-grape, vaguely pepperminty or black cherry aroma. Ripe tomato, mushroom, and barnyard are also common descriptors for identifying Pinot Noir. It is full-bodied and rich but not heavy, high in alcohol, yet neither acidic nor tannic, with substantial flavor despite its delicacy. The most appealing quality of Pinot Noir may be its soft, velvety texture. When right, it is like liquid silk, gently caressing the palate. Pinot does not have the longevity in the bottle of the darker red wines and tends to reach its peak at five to eight years past the vintage.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Pinot Noir Smell and Flavor Descriptors Varietal

Processing Bouquets/Flavors:

Aromas/Flavors: Fruit:

Terroir: mushroom, earth, barnyard,

cherry, strawberry, raspberry,

truffle, leather, meat

ripe

tomato Floral:

Oak (light): vanilla, coconut, sweet

violet, rose petal Spice:

wood Oak (heavy): oak, smoke, toast, tar

peppermint, rosemary, cinnamon, caraway Herbal:

Bottle Age: cedar, cigar box

rhubarb,

beet,

oregano,

green

tomato, green tea, black olive

Syrah Syrah is the only grape used to make the famous Rhône wines of Côte Rotie and Hermitage, but also forms the

53

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ backbone of most Rhône blends, including Chateauneuf du Pape. Although cultivated since antiquity, competing claims to the origin of this variety gave credit to it either being transplanted from Persia, near the similarlytitled city of Shiraz or to being a native plant of France. Starting in 1998, combined research of the University of California at Davis and the French National Agronomy Archives in Montpellier proved syrah is indeed indigenous to France. DNA profiling proved syrah to be a genetic cross of two relatively obscure varieties, mondeuse blanc and dureza. More than half the world's total Syrah acreage is planted in France, but it is also a successful grape in Australia (called Shiraz or Hermitage), South Africa and California. Syrah is a fairly new variety in California, first introduced in 1971. Some of the state's vines were propagated from Hermitage and some from Australian cuttings. It is also one of California's most rapidly increasing varieties. In 1984, there were less than 100 acres. Syrah now accounts for 12,700 vineyard acres, almost half of which is less than three years old and not yet bearing fruit. Syrah vines are relatively productive, yet not too vigorous. Like Merlot, it is sensitive to coulure, and although Syrah buds fairly late, it is a mid-season ripener. Syrah requires heat to get fully ripe, but can lose varietal character when even slightly overripe. The berry is thick-skinned and dark, almost black. Syrah forms intense wines, with deep violet, nearly black color, chewy texture and richness, and often alcoholic strength, with aromas that tend to be more spicy than fruity. Syrah Smell and Flavor Descriptors Varietal Aromas/Flavors:

Processing Bouquets/Flavors:

Fruit: blackberry

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black

currant,

Terroir: musk, civet, truffle, earth

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Floral: grass

Oak

(light):

vanilla,

coconut, sweet wood Spice:

black

pepper,

Oak

licorice, clove, thyme, bay leaf

(heavy):

oak,

smoke, toast, tar

Herbal: sandalwood, cedar

Bottle Age: cedar, cigar box, earth, leather

Each time our tasting panel reviews Syrah, we conclude that, for both sensual appeal and great value, we should drink this varietal more often.

CHAPTER 5

French white grape varieties Chardonnay Rich is the word that best both describes

55

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Chardonnay and explains its popularity. Its aroma is distinct, yet delicate, difficult to characterize, easier to recognize. It often smells like apples, lemons, peaches or tropical fruits. Its delicacy is such that even a small percentage of another varietal blended into a Chardonnay will often completely dominate its aroma and flavor. Oak commonly takes over Chardonnay if the wine is fermented or aged in new barrels or for too long in seasoned ones. This delicacy also allows Chardonnay to absorb the influences of both vinification technique and appellation of origin. In the Chablis region of France, it is the only grape permitted and it renders a "crisp, flinty" wine. In the Meursault appellation, chardonnay takes on a lush, ripe, "fleshy", "buttery" quality. Even in quality sparkling wines and French Champagne, it is the major varietal used. California Chardonnay is every bit as variable and possibly even more exciting because of the effusive varietal quality it develops there. In spite of this variety in style, Chardonnay is unmistakable in the mouth because of its impeccable sugar/acid balance, its full body, and its easy smoothness. Researchers at the University of California at Davis used DNA profiling in 1999 to prove that Chardonnay originated as a cross of an obscure, ancient, and nearly extinct variety called gouais blanc with a member of the "pinot" family, quite likely pinot noir (although ampelographic research has not yet been able to pinpoint this). Vineyards in France are commonly planted with an intermingling of chardonnay and pinot blanc vines, so that "pinot" has often been attached to chardonnay, incorrectly. In spite of its heritage, Chardonnay is not considered a member of the "pinot" grape family (pinot noir, pinot blanc, pinot gris, etc.). California has achieved real success growing chardonnay and popularity of its wine. It has also been a successful grape in Australia, where it also is sometimes misnamed "pinot chardonnay". Unfortunately, chardonnay vines are shy-bearing and susceptible to a myriad of maladies. Chardonnay berries are relatively small, thin-skinned, fragile, and oxidize easily. This makes chardonnay somewhat more sensitive to

56

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ winemaking techniques and more difficult to handle from harvest to bottling than most other grape types. Different wine making techniques also produce wide variances in the Chardonnay flavor profile. Such techniques as barrel fermentation, proportion of new to old cooperage, lees stirring, and partial, complete, or prevention of malolactic fermentation generate controversy and lively discussion among winemakers. Chardonnay's intrinsic blank canvas quality also allows its flavors to be dramatically affected by differences in soil, climate, and vineyard practices. Not uncommon among wine grapes, the chardonnay vine also has a tendency to mutate and research has identified over 400 clonal variants. Each clone has chardonnay family traits, but displays individually specific tendencies in such characteristics as length of ripening cycle, crop load, berry and cluster size, acid retention, etc., therefore producing wines with various flavor differences. The widespread popularity of varietally-labeled Chardonnay wines spurred many new California plantings in the early 1970s. The most commonly planted clone was the "Wente" clone (UCD 2A) and, later, clone 108, isolated at UC Davis from vines grown in Carneros. Due to this grape's blank canvas nature and the proliferation of new vineyard sources using essentially only two clones, regional variations in Chardonnay wines became more apparent than perhaps in any other varietal wine in the late 1970s and early 1980s. In the 1990s, California vintners began paying much more attention to matching, not only varieties but also clones, to specific microclimates and vineyard sites. Many new vineyards and re-plantings since then, especially in cooler regions, have propogated the "Dijon" clones (particularly 75, 76, 78, 95 and 96), the "Espiguette" clone (352) or, in fewer locations, "Champagne" clones. The most common (but not exclusive) smell and/or flavor elements found in chardonnay-based wines include: Chardonnay Smell and Flavor Elements

57

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Varietal

Processing

Aromas/Flavors:

apple,

Bouquets/Flavors:

Stone

Fruits:

pear,

peach,

Malolactic: butter, cream, hazelnut

apricot Citric

Fruits:

Oak (light): vanilla, sweet

lemon, lime, orange,

wood, coconut

tangerine Tropical Fruits: pineapple,

Oak (heavy): oak, smoke,

banana,

toast, lees, yeast

mango, guava, kiwi Floral:

acacia,

Terroir:

hawthorn

flint,

mineral,

mint

Chenin Blanc At the beginning of the 1970s, Americans began to discover that California's better wines are labeled by the predominate grape variety. Made in the style of the day, fragrant and lightly sweet, and also easy to pronounce, Chenin Blanc quickly became the best-selling wine of the era. As wine popularity rocketed, Chenin

Blanc

helped

to

introduce

another, completely unpopular, wine phenomenon that became the varietal's 1sales death knell: allocation. The "boom" in wine, especially white varietals, caught most producers by surprise. Charles Krug was the top-selling brand and, from 1972 to 1977, the winery completely controlled the chain of supply, using the

58

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ demand for whites as a reward to buyers of the 2less-popular reds. Chenin blanc is arguably the most versatile of all wine grape varieties. Crisp, dry table wines, light sparkling wines, long-lived, unctuous, nectar-like dessert wines, and even brandy are all produced in various areas of the wine world, all of chenin blanc. It might even be said that chenin blanc is France's most successful export variety, if only considering the vine rather than the wine. Although the native region for chenin is the Loire Valley (where the grape is often called Pineau de la Loire), there is less planted in all of France than in most wine-producing countries of the New World. It is planted as Pinot Blanco in Brazil, Chile, Mexico, and Argentina, where there are over 10,000 acres of chenin blanc. Nearly a third of vines in South Africa are chenin blanc, where it is also called Steen. In California, it is the third most widely planted white wine grape. Australia has close to 1,500 acres and New Zealand 500. Resistance to many diseases, vine vigor, and the tendency to early bud break and late ripening suits chenin blanc to grow in climates too warm for many vinifera types. The vine grows well in many soil types and can be very vigorous in either sandy loam or clay loam. Production is fairly consistent at from five to eight tons per acre. At three or four years old, the vines tend to overproduce and may set crops too large to fully ripen in the coolest areas. Chenin blanc grapes are susceptible to both bunch rot and sun burn. In spite of its wide plantings and potential flavor palates, most chenin blanc is made into serviceable, but generally bland wine. A general tendency to overirrigate and overcrop further reduce most Chenin Blanc to the forgettable. Careful viticultural practices easily overcome chenin blanc's weaknesses and can result in excellent wine. . When conditions are right, Botrytis cinerea adds additional complexity and intensity.The most frequently encountered (but not exclusive) smell and/or flavor elements found in Chenin Blanc-based wines include:

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Chenin Blanc Smell and/or Flavor Elements Varietal Aromas/Flavors:

Processing Bouquets/Flavors: .

Floral: honey, honeysuckle

Fruity:

quince,

melon,

esp.

Wood: vanilla, sweet wood, oak

Honeydew, cantaloupe

(not usually)

Aggressive: iodine, "gym socks"

Mineral: flint, smoke

Herbal: grass, hay

.

Pinot Gris Pinot gris (or pinot grigio, as it is known in Italy) probably is the best-known "white" variant-clone of Pinot Noir. Ripe pinot gris grapes may be described as having colors from bluish grey to light pinkish brown. Clusters with a variety of colors are not unusual. The variety can attain a very high level of sweetness, but will begin to lose acid rapidly when near to fully ripe. Sometimes it is used to add richness and to lighten, when blended with Pinot Noir. Some pinot gris is grown in Burgundy, where it may be called pinot beurot.

60

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Where planted in Germany, it is known as ruländer. It is of little commercial significance in either locale. Friuli, in Italy, produces the largest quantity, but only two appellations have Pinot Gris stars in the wine quality galaxy: Alsace, France, the traditional base of Pinot Gris appreciation and Oregon, the newest Pinot Gris area to come to light. In Alsace, the pinot gris grape is called tokay d'Alsace (no relation to the Hungarian Tokay). The Alsatians value it as a full-bodied wine that can stand up to food without introducing any flavors of its own. In Italy, Pinot Grigio can be quite distinguished, coming from some producers, especially in the Friuli region, who devote attention to growing and vinifying. Unfortunately for its reputation, there are many other Italian Pinot Grigio makers that overcrop and harvest early to produce crisp, but vapid wines. There are winemakers in the United States who are putting serious efforts into growing and producing Pinot Gris. Nearly 1,620 acres are planted in California, mostly in the Central and South coastal areas. Both quality and sales have been erratic thus far. Many Oregon wineries, on the other hand, have had good success and are moving steadily away from making Chardonnay while increasing production of Pinot Gris. In the 2000 vintage, Pinot Gris total plantings (1270 acres) and quantity crushed (2917 tons) surpassed Chardonnay (1125 acres, 2523 tons) for the first time. Pinot Gris / Pinot Grigio is usually delicately fragrant and mildly floral with lightly lemon-citrus flavors. Depending upon ripeness at harvest and vinification technique, Pinot Gris can be tangy and light, or quite rich, round and full bodied. Made in an appropriate style, it is one dry white wine that may even age well. Pinot Gris Smell and/or Flavor Elements

Varietal Aromas/Flavors:

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Processing Bouquets/Flavors:

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Fruit:

lemon,

apple, pear

Oak:

sweet

wood,

(unusual):

butter,

almond, smoke

Floral: (vague)

Malolactic cream

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vanilla,

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Sauvignon Blanc Classic white-wine producer variety commonly planted in the Bordeaux and eastern Loire regions of France. Shows vigorous growth and is late maturing. Members of the cépage are now thought by some to be descendants of the ancient Fié variety once common in the Loire region of France. A recent (2002) DNA study suggests derivation from an earlier Traminer cross, eg: Sauvignon Rose below, that must have mutated to a later state. The sauvignon cépage apparently derives the latter part of its name from the color of its skin. Other members include the recent (4-97) genetic parental link to Cabernet Sauvignon and other mutations known as the Sauvignon Noir, Sauvignon Jaune and Sauvignon Rose. The last named variety is also known as Sauvignon Gris. In the Styria region of Austria the named variety is occasionally referred to as the MuskatSylvaner. All versions of the cépage show a tendency towards a grassy, herbaceous flavor in the grapewine, often referred to as "gooseberry" by professional tasters, when the grapes are grown in temperate regions. In warmer regions, the flavors and aromas tend to be more citruslike, (e.g: grapefruit or pear), plus the characteristic "earthy" taste. New Zealand has had much success with the grape in recent years.

63

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Sauvignon Blanc Smell and Flavor Elements

Varietal Aromas/Flavors:

Processing Bouquets/Flavors:

Herbaceous: grass, weeds, lemon-grass,

vanilla, sweet wood

gooseberry Vegetal:

bell

pepper,

green

olive,

butter, cream

asparagus, capsicum Fruity: grapefruit, lime, melon

oak, smoke, toast

Aggressive: mineral, "catbox"

flint

With naturally high acidity, Sauvignon Blanc is always tangy, tart, nervy, racy, or zesty, and this character pervades even sweet and dessert versions, keeping them from being cloying and sticky-tasting. Dry-style Sauvignon or Fumé Blancs are very versatile in accompanying foods and can handle components such as tomatoes, bell peppers, cilantro, raw garlic, smoked cheeses or other pungent flavors that would clash with or overpower many Chardonnays and almost all other dry whites. In fact, Sauvignon Blanc is probably the best dry white wine to accompany the greatest variety of foods.

Semillon

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Semillon grapes make up 80% of the blend in the most expensive and famous dessert wine in the world, Château d'Yquem. Semillon seems the favorite foil of Botrytis Cinerea, the noble rot which concentrates the sugars and flavors and intensifies the aromas for d'Yquem and the other "late-harvest" dessert wines of Monbazillac and Sauternes. These wines hold up spectacularly in antiquity, unique in the spectrum of unfortified wines. Consistently productive at six to eight tons per acre and of vigorous vines, semillon is easy to cultivate. It is fairly resistant to common vine diseases, with the notable exception of rot, which most often is hoped to be the noble type and not the destructive strain. This viticultural profile has led to widespread propagation and popularity of semillon vineyards. While semillon is the majority white variety in Bordeaux, Graves, and Sauternes, more grows in Chile than anywhere else on earth. Early in the viticultural development of Australia, semillon (often incorrectly labeled as Riesling) dominated as the major white variety, although the vineyards are mostly Chardonnay and sauvignon blanc today. California has an ongoing checkered relationship with Semillon. Acreage has fluctuated up and down over the past several decades, from 1,200 acres in 1961, to 2,800 acres in 1981, to currently over 1,500 acres planted. Most California Semillon today is blended with Sauvignon Blanc and rendered dry, but an experimental dessert wine created a sensation in the middle of the 20th Century. In 1956, winemaker Myron Nightingale, then of Cresta Blanca winery, made a dessert wine by spraying spores of Botrytis cinerea on semillon and sauvignon blanc grapes to produce French Sauternes-like results. The wine was a breakthrough success in the industry, because the California climate had always been considered too arid for the Noble Mold to naturally exist at a high enough population level to any beneficial effect.1 Financial problems caused Cresta Blanca to change hands and production ceased after the 1966 vintage.

65

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ The ripe semillon berry is a rich yellow color at maturity, although increasing sun exposure may turn it amber-pink. In warmer climates, there is always danger of sunburn and raisining. If processed as a dry or semidry table wine, the thin skins and tender, juicy pulp require speedy but gentle handling. Semillon Smell and Flavor Elements

Varietal

Processing Bouquets/Flavors:

Aromas/Flavors: Fruity:

fig,

lemon, pear

Botrytis: apricot, quince, peach, honey, pineapple, vanilla, candy

Spice: saffron

Malolactic: butter, cream

Herbal:

grass,

Oak (light): vanilla, sweet wood

Vegetal:

bell

weeds

pepper, asparagus

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Oak (heavy): oak, smoke, toast

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Wines dominated by Semillon may lack much youthful aroma, but have fairly full body and tend to be low in acidity, even "fat" at times. This is the flavor profile of a supporting role grape, rather than a star, and most Semillon is blended. Semillon is the soft, subtle, rich Yin to balance the Yang of Sauvignon Blanc, which can be aromatically aggressive and acidic. Semillon even works well when blended with that notoriously standoffish loner, Chardonnay, providing weight and richness without diverting aromatic delicacy.

67

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Viognier Viognier seemed literally an endangered variety only a few years ago, but seems to be recovering worldwide in both popularity and acreage. Less than 35 acres remained planted in all of France, its homeland, in the late 1960s. Its newest realm, California, has 2,001 acres as of 2002 (although a considerable portion is not yet mature enough to bear a commercial crop) and there are also relatively new plantings in Australia and Brazil, as well as other U.S. plantings in Colorado, New York, North Carolina, Oregon, Texas, Virginia, and Washington. The major drawback of the viognier grape is that it is a very shy producer and somewhat difficult to grow. Although drought tolerant, it is easily infected with powdery mildew in damp conditions or humid climates. Like many other varietals, viognier must be harvested at its peak of maturity in order to display its unique aroma and flavor character. The grape's tendency to develop high sugar but low acid can result in wines with neutral, merely vinous flavors and high alcohol. These cultivation problems and producer desires to capitalize on the grape's somewhat rarity combine to make many Viognier wines relatively expensive. Viognier is the only grape used for the Northern Rhône appellations Condrieu and Château-Grillet (one of France's smallest appellation contrôlée, with less than ten acres and only one owner). Viognier is also sometimes used to add fragrance and to soften and lighten the syrah in Côte Rotie. Plantings of viognier in France have expanded in recent years from the Rhône (1830 acres), to the Languedoc (3440 ac.) to smaller plantings in Roussillon (212 ac.) and Provence (272 ac.).

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Probably the main attraction of Viognier is its potentially powerful, rich, and complex aroma that often seems like overripe apricots mixed with orange blossoms or acacia. With as distinctive and sweet an aroma-flavor profile as Gewürztraminer, Viognier is nevertheless usually made in a dry style and seems to appeal more to the typical Chardonnay drinker. The distinctive Viognier perfume holds up even when blended with a large portion of other grapes. The fruit usually has very deep color, but is somewhat low in acidity. As California wineries experiment with Viognier-Chardonnays, Viognier-Chenin Blancs, and ViognierColombards, this may be the grape's ultimate destiny, as a blender. Both Chardonnay and Viognier share tropical fruit flavors and a creamy mouthfeel. Even with little or no wood aging, Viognier can be as full-bodied as an oaky Chardonnay, but has much more distinctive fruit character. It also has a

Viognier smell and Flavor Elements Varietal Aromas/ Flavors:

Processing Bouquets/Flavors

Floral: orange blossom, acacia, violet, foney

Malolactic: butter, cream Spice: anise, mint

Oak(light): vanilla, sweet wood

Herbal: mown hay, tobacco

Viognier alcohol easily gets out-of-hand, so some vintners leave a touch of residual sugar to mask the heat. The combination of heady aromas and sweet-hot flavors may be overbearing to some palates. Even for those who favor Viognier's brash personality, a little can go a long way and a single glass may satiate one's wine thirst. There are also occasional late-harvest and dessert versions made that can be as headily-intriguing as the finest Sauternes. Because the prime appeal of Viognier is its fresh and striking aroma, it is a wine that should be consumed young in most instances. The exception is Château Grillet, where the grapes are harvested early and the wine kept in oak for several

69

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ months prior to bottling; this wine has a reputation for aging up to two decades. As to food matches, Viognier works well with dishes that might normally call for Gewürztraminer. Spicy dishes, such as spicy oriental stir-frys and even curry, especially Thai-style which is made with coconut milk, may be accompanied and complemented by Viognier. Also fruit salsas, atop grilled fish or chicken, can be miraculously tasty with Viognier.

CHAPTER-6

Hybrid Varieties ARRILOBA: Variety derived from a Raffiat de Monade x Sauvignon Blanc cross, released around 1960 by the INRA, France. Currently grown by select vineyards in the Landes region of France

70

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ where it is used to create a white wine described as rich and golden. (No other details as yet). AUBIN BLANC: Recently DNA checks have revealed this variety to possibly be the result of a Gouais Blanc x Traminer cross. No other information on this variety other than it was grown in the Moselle river area of France. AUXERROIS BLANC: Local name for variety, used for white wine production, grown in the northeast Moselle and Alsace regions of France. Used to produce mildly acidic wines that add a honied intensity to blends with the Pinot Blanc in the better vintage years. Is one of the 16 known varieties possibly directly descended from the ancient Pinot cepage x Gouais Blanc cross. . BACHET NOIR: Francois Noir is one of the 16 known direct possible descendants of the ancient Pinot cepage x Gouais Blanc cross that resulted in this red-wine creating variety. BALZAC: Has several synonym names including Limousin Blanc. Recent DNA checks revealed that this variety is possibly derived from a Gouais Blanc x Chenin Blanc cross. No other details at present.

BARESANA: Table/Wine grape cultivar derived from a Golden Hamburg x Muscat of Alexandria variety cross. Has about a dozen synonym names including Golden Champion and White Tokay. Widely grown in Europe and other cool climate regions. BEAUNOIR: It is Chardonnay-like white-wine creating variety that is one of the known 16 possible

71

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ descendants of a Pinot cepage x Gouais Blanc ancient variety crossing and has several synonym names including Cep Gris, Mourillon and Pinot d'Ai. . BOUCHY: Local name for the Cabernet Franc grape grown in the Pyrenees region of France. Makes one of four wines blended to produce a full-bodied red wine called "Madiran". The others are Courbu Noir, Pinenc and Tannat. . CABERNET DORIO: Vinifera variety, synonym name developed and subsequently released in November, 1999 by the Weinsberg/Württemberg Research Station, Baden, Germany. Derived from a Cabernet Sauvignon x Dornfelder cross. Red wine is recommended for fine fruitiness with velvety, distinctive taste. CABERNET CUBIN: Has synonym name WE 70-281-35. Developed and subsequently released in November, 1999, this V.vinifera cross is reported as derived from Cabernet Sauvignon x Lemberger parentage by the Weinsberg/Württemberg Research Station, Baden, Germany. Red wine is claimed to be rich in fruit aromas and requiring oak cask ageing/vinification. CALADOC: Derived from a Grenache x Malbec cross for use in the Mediterranean climate of the coastal regions of southern France. Having similarities to the former parent cultivar it is reported as being used in limited amounts as a red wine tannin/aroma enhancing agent in the lesser wines of the region. CARMINOIR: Variety resulting from a Pinot Noir x Cabernet Sauvignon cross. CHARMONT: White-wine producing variety with Chasselas x Chardonnay pedigree grown in the Valais district of Switzerland.

72

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

COUNOISE: Semi-classic grape grown in the southern Rhone and Pyrenees regions of France and used in the red wine blends of Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Banyuls, and other local wines of those regions to create aroma and acidic freshness. Thought by some to be of unknown Spanish grape origin. DAMERON: Has several synonym names including Pinot Rouge. Is possibly derived from a Pinot cepage x Gouais Blanc cross that occurred in the distant past. No other details as yet other than this variety is grown in France and can be made into red wine. DORAL: Variety resulting from a Chasselas x Chardonnay cross. No other details as yet other than it is used to create white wines in Switzerland. .

73

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

FLORA: Has synonym name California H59-90. Reported to be a selected cross of Semillon x Traminer Rot created by H. Olmo for white wine production. Currently grown in California, Australia and some other countries on a limited scale.

FORTA: Derived from a Silvaner x Madeleine Angevine cross. Frost-hardy in a good site. Reported as having sugars and acidity higher than Müller-Thurgau. Used to make a varietal white wine claimed to have profile similarities to Pinot Gris. . FRANC NOIR DE LA HAUTE SAÔNE: Variety possibly derived from a Pinot cepage x Gouais Blanc cross. Has several synonym names including Plant Jacquot. GARANOIR: Variety derived from a Gamay Noir x Reichensteiner cross. Has synonym names Granoir and Pully B-28. Created in 1970, along with Gamaret, the two wines can be blended to make a red wine of character that. KANZLER: Winegrape derived from a Müller-Thurgau x Silvaner cross that was released in 1927. Has synonym name Alzey S.3983. Possessed of moderate vigor, crop potential, despite wood hardening deficiencies. Claimed to produce a white wine with a delicate bouquet, rich in extract and having a fruity flavor. KOZMA CSVT 55: V.vinifera variety red-skin grape claimed to be derived from a Rayon d'Or x Perle von Csaba cross .

74

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ MARCELAN: Recently developed variety, derived from a Grenache x Cabernet Sauvignon cross, grown in France.

MÜLLER-THURGAU: Early ripening cross once thought to have been developed from Sylvaner and Riesling but some authorities now contend, based on DNA analysis (2002), that there is a high degree of genetic similarity between the varieties Chasselas de Courtiller and Madeleine Royale . MUSCAT HAMBURG: According to the Geilweilerhof (Genres) database, see above, this variety was derived from a Schiava Grossa x Muscat of Alexandria cross. Has over 30 synonym names, including Black Hamburg (see comments re. Schiava Grossa synonym name), Black Muscat, Golden Hamburg, Hampton Court Vine, Queen's Arbor and Venn's Seedling.. NEVA MUNSON: T.V. Munson variety reported to be derived from a Neosho x Herbemont cross. Claimed to have some resistance to Pierce's Disease. No other details as yet. NEW YORK MUSCAT Derived from a Muscat Hamburg x Ontario cross. Moderately hardy with loose, largeberried clusters that have good Muscat profile and little if any labrusca flavor. Reports from some areas indicate moderate vigor with a tendency to low productivity. Claimed to make a pleasing red or whit. NITODEL: T.V. Munson variety derived from a Salado x Pense cross. Has synonym name Nitodal. No other details as yet.

75

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ PINOTAGE: Derived from the crossing of Pinot Noir x Cinsaut. Used to make a popular, hearty red wine that ages well - (and often requires it). Also grown in some quantity on New Zealand's North Island . ROMULUS: Has synonym name NY 15291. Reported as derived from a Ontario x Thompson Seedless cross and mainly used as a tablegrape. No other details as yet. RUBY: Reported as a Keuka x Ontario cross developed around the mid-1930's at the Geneva Institute of N.Y. SCHUYLER: Is a cross between Zinfandel and Ontario varieties. SOLARIS: Derived from a Merzling x (Saperavi Severny x Muscat Ottonel) cross. ST. FRANCIS: Complex American/Vinifera variety derived from a Muench x Gros Guillaume cross. TARHEEL: Complex V.rotundifolia (ie. Muscadine) cultivar. Derived from a Luola x (Eden x (Eden x V. Munsonia)) cross. TETRA: Derived from a Herbert x Worden cross. This hybrid variety is widely grown in Georgia . WAYNE: Reported to be an early ripening cross of the Ontario x Mills varieties.

CHAPTER 7

Disease to The Grapes 76

Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Angular Leaf Scorch Type of Pest: Disease Frequency of Occurrence: Angular leaf scorch is most likely to become a problem when high rainfall occurs during the period of early shoot growth. Damage Caused: Disease symptoms occur mainly on the leaves and first appear as faint chlorotic spots. Lesions enlarge and change from yellow to reddish-brown, eventually killing the tissue. Lesions are confined by major veins and can have a yellow, red, or absent margin. Infected leaves often fall prematurely. % Acres Affected: 35% Pest Life Cycles: The fungus survives winter in infected leaves on the vineyard floor. Mature spores are ready for discharge in spring when grape buds begin to grow. During rainfall, spores are released into the air from fruiting structures and susceptible tissue is infected. Timing of Control: Fungicides should be applied prior to rainfall, beginning at the 3-inch stage and continuing through fruit set. Angular leaf scorch is typically only a problem during years with extremely wet springs. Yield Losses: Premature loss of leaves is detrimental to sugar accumulation in berries but is more detrimental to overall vine health in cold sensitive varieties. Cultural Control Practices: Cultural practices that increase air circulation can reduce duration’s of leaf wetness that favor disease development. Destruction of leaf litter by cultivation, before bud break, can also reduce disease incidence. Biological Control Practices: None available at this time Post-Harvest Control Practices: None Other Issues: There is no currently labeled fungicide to control this disease. However, mancozeb utilized to control other diseases on grapes will control angular leaf scorch.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Black Rot Type of Pest: Disease Frequency of Occurrence: 3- to 5-inch shoot growth through approximately August 1 Damage Caused: Black rot is one of the most serious diseases of grapes in the eastern United States. This disease can cause substantial crop loss under the appropriate environmental conditions. All green tissues of the vine are susceptible to infection. % Acres Affected: 40% Pest Life Cycles: The black rot fungus overwinters primarily in mummified fruit on the vineyard floor or fruit retained within the vine. It can also overwinter within cane lesions. Spores within cane lesions are available for infection starting at bud break; however, the vast majority of spores (those within mummified fruit) first become available about 2-3 weeks after bud break, then reach peak levels from about 1-2 weeks before bloom until about 1-2 weeks after, depending on the year. Rain triggers the release of infective spores from mummies, and infection occurs if susceptible tissues remain wet for a sufficient length of time, which depends on temperature. Pycnidia develop within lesions caused by current season infections and release a new crop of spores during the summer. It is this secondary round of spore release and infection that is responsible for the majority of fruit rot damage. Thus, if very few current season infections are present, protective sprays can usually be stopped once most of the overwintering inoculum has been depleted (about the time berries become pea-sized). However, if more than a few current infections (and new spores) are present, protection must be maintained until fruit begin to ripen. Timing of Control: Disease severity the previous year and varietal susceptibility to black rot are the major factor in determining how early protection is required. Under heavy disease pressure protectant application could begin as early as 3-inch shoot growth on susceptible varieties. However, the two most important sprays are

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ the immediate prebloom and 10 to 14-days later at the immediate postbloom. Yield Losses: 50% in years of frequent early rainfall which favors development of primary infections. Cultural Control Practices: Removal of mummified clusters during pruning significantly reduces disease pressure for the coming season; spring cultivation to bury mummies also can contribute to a reduction of inoculum. Cultural practices that open the canopy are beneficial because they increase air circulation and improve spray coverage. Biological Control Practices: None available at this time Post-Harvest Control Practices: Removal of mummified berries during pruning

Banded Grape Bug Type of Pest: Insect Frequency of Occurrence: Sporadic pest of grapes. When present damage occurs between mid-May and early June Damage Caused: Feeding injury results in floret drop, reduced berry set, and reduced cluster number % Acres Affected: 10% Pest Life Cycles: Nymphs of this insect emerge in the spring and feed, using their sucking and piercing mouth parts, on flowers and young berries. Injury by small nymphs, occurring between 3- to 5-inch shoot growth (around May 15) and early June, results in floret drop, reduced berry set, and reduced cluster number. Subsequent feeding by larger nymphs and adults does not affect cluster development. This injury only occurs in the early prebloom stages (between 5- and 10-inch shoot growth). Subsequent feeding by nymphs does not reduce berry set. Adults appear to be predaceous and do not cause injury to berries. This pest is sporadic and does not require treatment in most years.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Timing of Control: 3- to 10-inch shoot growth Yield Losses: Up to 100% reduction in area infested by this pest through loss of florets. Reduction of crop size of 50% is typical when banded grape bug exceeds the economic threshold of 1 nymph per 10 shoots

Grape Cane Gallmakers Type of Pest: Insect Frequency of Occurrence: Early spring Damage Caused: Gall-like swellings on canes are caused by the oviposition injury. Galls are usually twice as thick as the cane and 2.5 to 4 cm long. In newly planted vineyards gallmaker can destroy canes necessary for developing a training system, resulting in an extra year being necessary before a crop can be harvested from the vine. Galls usually have little effect on vigor and growth of mature vines but they can weaken the mechanical strength of the cane and cause breakage. In cases of severe infestations, shoot length can be severely stunted resulting in the loss of the crop on infested canes and the loss of the shoot for canopy management for next year. % Acres Affected: 10-15% Pest Life Cycles: The grape cane gallmakers has only one generation per year. Timing of Control: 4 to 6-inches of shoot growth Yield Losses: In newly planted vineyards gallmaker can destroy canes necessary for developing a training system, resulting in an extra year being necessary before a crop can be harvested from the vine. Galls usually have little effect on vigor and growth of mature vines but they can weaken the mechanical strength of the cane and cause breakage. In cases of severe infestations, shoot length can be severely stunted resulting in the loss of the crop on infested canes and the loss of the shoot for canopy management for next year.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Regional Differences: Grape Cane Gallmakers appear to be most common in the part of the county along Lake Erie. Cultural Control Practices: Removal of infected canes below the galls during dormant pruning. This is not always feasible if infestation was severe or if canes are needed to maintain training system. Biological Control Practices: None available Post-Harvest Control Practices: Removal of infected canes below the galls during dormant pruning. This is not always feasible if infestation was severe or if canes are needed to maintain training system.

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “

Broadleaf weeds Type of Pest: Weed Frequency of Occurrence: Yearly, throughout the season Damage Caused: Weeds compete directly with the vine for water and nutrients. Weed growth under the row in vineyards has been shown to be responsible for stunted vine size and crop reduction. % Acres Affected: 100% Pest Life Cycles: Variable due to species of broadleaf weed Timing of Control: Prior to emergence, prebloom Yield Losses: Up to 30% dependent on species of weeds present and degree of ground surface covered. Reduction in vine size due to competition of weeds for water and nutrients can result in decreased yield capacity over the next several growing seasons. Cultural Control Practices: The practice of "hilling up" or pushing a berm of soil against the vine and "pulling away", or the removal of the berm, can reduce weed populations under the row. However, these practices are labor intensive and less cost efficient than traditional pesticide based practices. Biological Control Practices: None available Post-Harvest Control Practices: Not applicable

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Specialization Project “French Grape Varieties “ Grasses Type of Pest: Weed Frequency of Occurrence: Yearly, throughout the season Damage Caused: Weeds compete directly with the vine for water and nutrients. Weed growth under, and between, the row in vineyards has been shown to be responsible for stunted vine size and crop reduction. % Acres Affected: 100% Pest Life Cycles: Variable due to species of grass Timing of Control: Prior to emergence, prebloom Yield Losses: Up to 30% dependent on species of weeds present and degree of ground surface covered. Reduction in vine size due to competition of weeds for water and nutrients can result in decreased yield capacity over the next several growing seasons. Cultural Control Practices: Biological Control Practices: None available Post-Harvest Control Practices: Not applicable

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